Author Topic: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)  (Read 6292 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline BareSphereMass

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 31
  • Location: Washington State
  • (╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻
The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« on: Tue, 28 January 2020, 01:16:25 »

I want to make the ultimate TGR Alice clone.  Hot Swap MX sockets, per-key RGB, underglow RGB, USB-C, maybe a rotary encoder, and maybe one of those mini OLED screens.

In order to accomplish this I started Learning KiCad and I downloaded FreeCAD.  I soon learned how hard making a good PCB can get.  If I could make a simple one that attaches to an existing Atmega32u4 (like the Elite-C) then making the PCB would be much simpler.  I would only have to make a PCB that lined up with existing cases and then attach it to the Elite-C.

Questions
Q#1.  What are the lined up and labled holes called, I cant find it in KiCad.  (see photos)
A#1.  They are called foot prints.
Q#2.  How do people line up their KiCad PCB’s with their FreeCAD (or other CAD program) file.  How do you get screw holes and MX sockets to perfectly match?
Q#3.  Do you know of a good guide on how to wire up per key RGB LED’s?


What I have:
1.  Case files for a stacked case (.FCStd) (I think laser cutters will accept this)
2.  The .lib file for MX switches
3.  The .kicad_mod file for Kailh hot swap socket
4.  The .kicad_mod file for the diodes
5.  The .kicad_mod file for the Elite-C footprint


What I need:
1.  A wiring diagram that shows how to integrate per key LED’s into the matrix
2.  The .lib and .kicad_mod files for the mini OLED footprint
3.  Knowledge about how to line up the MX sockets and screw holes correctly in KiCad


https://imgur.com/gallery/sFcPPiz
« Last Edit: Tue, 28 January 2020, 03:05:09 by BareSphereMass »
Current Keebs:  Atreus 42 (hand wired)  |  Anne Pro 2  |  Prime_E  |  Prime_Meridian
Next Keebs:  Polycarbonate Alice  |  Type-K  |  Wood Case Keeb
Current Keycaps:  OEM (POM & PBT)  |  SA R3 (PBT)  |  DSA (PBT)  |  MT3 Camillo  |  GMK Apollo  |  Deskr Canyon Caps  |  MT3 LotR Elvish  |  GMK Civilizations
Current ArtisansDwarf Factory Artisans (2x)  |  Rama x Keycult Brass (1x)  |  Holyoops D.VA Aluminum (cherry R4)  |  Walnut OEM R4  |  3D Printed Pikachu
On Order:   GMK Pharaoh (est. April 2024)
Other:   ZealPC Clickiez

Offline piit79

  • Posts: 382
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #1 on: Tue, 28 January 2020, 02:01:05 »
I can't help with KiCAD as I'm a bigger noob than you - but also need to learn it, got a cool ortho board in the works ;

But for the per-key and underglow LEDs you want to use WS2812 compatible LEDs with integrated drivers. Those have 4 leads - Vcc, GND, DI (=data in) and DO (=data out). You chain them with DO of one LED to DI of the next. Therefore you only need a single digital PIN for all the LEDs. Well, two - one for underglow and one for per-key.

Offline theNestruo

  • Posts: 14
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #2 on: Tue, 28 January 2020, 02:31:43 »
For the "lined up holes", check the library Connector_Generic and the footprints Connector_PinHeader_2.54mm. I think those are what you are looking for.
Also, check this repo: https://github.com/keebio/Keebio-Parts.pretty; it has footprints for many things, including the Elite-C.

I'm sorry I can't help you with the other questions; I'm a newbie too.

Good luck with your project!

Offline Applet

  • Posts: 487
  • Location: Sweden
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #3 on: Tue, 28 January 2020, 10:06:35 »
Per key led is often done with a led-controller like a IS31FL3731, there are a few supported by QMK. WS2812 compatible leds are much easier to implement on the PCB, but often used for underglow, not in switch leds.

I'd suggest starting by making a simpler keyboard PCB, not trying to do everything in the same PCB. Not very beginner friendly with per key RGB.

Offline BareSphereMass

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 31
  • Location: Washington State
  • (╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #4 on: Tue, 28 January 2020, 11:38:29 »
Thanks for the input everyone!  If per key RGB is too hard I may just stick with underglow, but I want to at least give it a try before I admit defeat.

I still need to figure out how to line everything up.
Current Keebs:  Atreus 42 (hand wired)  |  Anne Pro 2  |  Prime_E  |  Prime_Meridian
Next Keebs:  Polycarbonate Alice  |  Type-K  |  Wood Case Keeb
Current Keycaps:  OEM (POM & PBT)  |  SA R3 (PBT)  |  DSA (PBT)  |  MT3 Camillo  |  GMK Apollo  |  Deskr Canyon Caps  |  MT3 LotR Elvish  |  GMK Civilizations
Current ArtisansDwarf Factory Artisans (2x)  |  Rama x Keycult Brass (1x)  |  Holyoops D.VA Aluminum (cherry R4)  |  Walnut OEM R4  |  3D Printed Pikachu
On Order:   GMK Pharaoh (est. April 2024)
Other:   ZealPC Clickiez

Offline gipetto

  • Posts: 91
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #5 on: Tue, 28 January 2020, 12:34:15 »
it's said by some on the ai03 discord that usb 2.0 can't handle the power draw of underglow and backlight.

Offline Applet

  • Posts: 487
  • Location: Sweden
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #6 on: Tue, 28 January 2020, 14:59:23 »
It may be better to use a proper led controller for both underglow and per key rgb to prevent high current draw? They can strobe the leds. Project gets very complex then tho
« Last Edit: Tue, 28 January 2020, 15:21:08 by Applet »

Offline Bowill121

  • Posts: 1
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #7 on: Fri, 11 December 2020, 16:56:33 »
Thanks for the input everyone!  If per key RGB is too hard I may just stick with underglow, but I want to at least give it a try before I admit defeat.

I still need to figure out how to line everything up.

Using freecad, the add-on kicad stepup will allow you to import a board, or export a board edge to pcbnew (kicad layout software)

Offline hanya

  • Posts: 132
  • Location: Japan
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #8 on: Fri, 11 December 2020, 17:27:21 »
Export PCB as STEP file from KiCAD and then import it to OnShape. USE (function to refer part of the another object) the hole or outline of the PCB imported in a sketch to construct something on the CAD.
If you modify the PCB on the KiCAD, then export as step file and update the imported item through context menu of itsefl in the part tab.
PFU HHKB JP, Sanwa MA-TB38 trackball

Offline FoC_Tow

  • * Destiny Supporter
  • Posts: 1142
  • Location: Germany
  • Brokehlicious
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #9 on: Thu, 28 January 2021, 07:52:44 »
Per key led is often done with a led-controller like a IS31FL3731, there are a few supported by QMK. WS2812 compatible leds are much easier to implement on the PCB, but often used for underglow, not in switch leds.

I'd suggest starting by making a simpler keyboard PCB, not trying to do everything in the same PCB. Not very beginner friendly with per key RGB.

Im interested in this question aswell.

I just checked the WS2812B documentation and if I understand correctly a single led is expected to use a 16mA.
So using 60 of these would result in close to 1A which exeeds the current rating of usb 2 of 0.5A (?) quite a bit.

Am I getting this right? Is the current draw actually less using non adressable rgb leds with a controller?

Offline Applet

  • Posts: 487
  • Location: Sweden
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #10 on: Thu, 28 January 2021, 08:52:29 »
Per key led is often done with a led-controller like a IS31FL3731, there are a few supported by QMK. WS2812 compatible leds are much easier to implement on the PCB, but often used for underglow, not in switch leds.

I'd suggest starting by making a simpler keyboard PCB, not trying to do everything in the same PCB. Not very beginner friendly with per key RGB.

Im interested in this question aswell.

I just checked the WS2812B documentation and if I understand correctly a single led is expected to use a 16mA.
So using 60 of these would result in close to 1A which exeeds the current rating of usb 2 of 0.5A (?) quite a bit.

Am I getting this right? Is the current draw actually less using non adressable rgb leds with a controller?
I believe what is specified is one RGB-channel for 16mA. So white on maximum brightness should consume 16*3=48mA. I've not done any measurements myself on these, but the WS2812 is power hungry.
https://www.pjrc.com/how-much-current-do-ws2812-neopixel-leds-really-use/

So using 60 of these would be way over 500mA

I've not done any measurements using a controller either, but yes, that solution should draw less current than the addressable leds afaik.

Edit: Note that they are also very bright, you could easily cap the maximum brightness or go for one of the less bright versions like the WS2812C.
« Last Edit: Thu, 28 January 2021, 08:54:37 by Applet »

Offline FoC_Tow

  • * Destiny Supporter
  • Posts: 1142
  • Location: Germany
  • Brokehlicious
Re: The Ultimate Alice Quest (I need help)
« Reply #11 on: Fri, 29 January 2021, 09:00:40 »
Thanks for the reply applet!

I was orginally investigating controller based solutions, so I may look more into these options
I also have a small tester board with 9x in Switch WS2812 LEDs (+2 as potential indicators) ready for soldering,
so I will try to get some meassurements running 10ish of these in a real life scenario which probably does not require full brightness =)