Author Topic: The Living Soldering Thread  (Read 1854075 times)

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Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1550 on: Wed, 25 December 2013, 11:28:54 »
I am using that exact desolder pump, I always desolder switches first try, but those leds were crazy.

Huh, weird! I suppose it also depends on the PCB.

Offline HPE1000

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1551 on: Wed, 25 December 2013, 11:48:46 »
I am using that exact desolder pump, I always desolder switches first try, but those leds were crazy.

Huh, weird! I suppose it also depends on the PCB.
I desoldered the leds on a QFR as well and they were incredibly easy, filcos use solder through the enter hole which makes desoldering difficult. (this is what I have read)

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1552 on: Wed, 25 December 2013, 11:49:34 »
I desoldered the leds on a QFR as well and they were incredibly easy, filcos use solder through the enter hole which makes desoldering difficult. (this is what I have read)

Yep, I've read the same thing too. This must be the difference.

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Offline Internet Friend

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1553 on: Sat, 28 December 2013, 11:46:37 »
When people in this thread recommend the Soldapullt, is there a particular model they mean? Because I just received a DS017 which explosively disassembled itself the first time I tried to use it. I pressed the plunger down the way the package shows and the plunger return spring popped out of the side. Now it was locked in place so I pressed the trigger to release it, which resulted in the trigger launching itself across the room. Even if I can put this back together I don't know where the trigger spring has gotten to. :(


Offline Glissant

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1554 on: Sat, 28 December 2013, 11:50:52 »
I've been using the DS017 for about six-seven months now without any issue. If you got a genuine one; and not the knockoff, then I suggest you contact Edsyn right away.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1555 on: Sat, 28 December 2013, 13:07:13 »
When people in this thread recommend the Soldapullt, is there a particular model they mean? Because I just received a DS017 which explosively disassembled itself the first time I tried to use it. I pressed the plunger down the way the package shows and the plunger return spring popped out of the side. Now it was locked in place so I pressed the trigger to release it, which resulted in the trigger launching itself across the room. Even if I can put this back together I don't know where the trigger spring has gotten to. :(

There are some Soldapullts clones which might not be of very good quality.  Did you order from an authorized reseller or some trustworthy place or just eBay or a third party seller?

I just desoldered the two leds on my filco... It took a good 30 mins to get them to come off, I realized I needed to prop the board up and just pull each side out while I heated the solder because there was no way all the solder was coming out.

Yep, Filco PCBs are double-sided, and you really can't remove all the solder filaments from the copper inserts unless you use some fancy equipment, like perhaps Hakko 808.  Pulling is what I've had to do with them for switches as well, and I've desoldered 2 full TKL Filco PCBs to replace plates/switches.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1556 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 03:50:37 »
When people in this thread recommend the Soldapullt, is there a particular model they mean? Because I just received a DS017 which explosively disassembled itself the first time I tried to use it. I pressed the plunger down the way the package shows and the plunger return spring popped out of the side. Now it was locked in place so I pressed the trigger to release it, which resulted in the trigger launching itself across the room. Even if I can put this back together I don't know where the trigger spring has gotten to. :(


this is impossible on a genuine DS017 for a number of reasons. i'm sorry to say that you definitely have a counterfeit :(

my best suggestion is to work on getting a refund. the geekhackers store is still carrying and has stock of DS017s and DS017GHs (mechanical improvements) for immediate shipment. feel free to PM me to order. I am also still carrying everything that was on the temporary store and more; i had an interruption in my ability to do business and have been working on a proper shop launch since then, so ignore the dust and just let me know what you need :)


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Offline yasuo

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1557 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 04:04:19 »
I just desoldered the two leds on my filco... It took a good 30 mins to get them to come off, I realized I needed to prop the board up and just pull each side out while I heated the solder because there was no way all the solder was coming out.
I think this is best way,i've tried and succesed i used pump desolder regular :)
Sure, here you go:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
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Offline Internet Friend

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1558 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 12:43:25 »
I'm getting a refund on the Soldapullt, I bought it on Amazon from seller LDBMART. For reference, this is what I received (minus the missing trigger spring): http://i.imgur.com/6AOI80S.jpg

Offline 1pq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1559 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 12:43:50 »
Has anyone used this solder for resoldering switches?
http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Metals-am31605-4oz-032elec-Solder/dp/B000G36BYU
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1561 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 15:53:08 »
I'm getting a refund on the Soldapullt, I bought it on Amazon from seller LDBMART. For reference, this is what I received (minus the missing trigger spring): http://i.imgur.com/6AOI80S.jpg
that is an extremely good fake. however, it is a fake. a couple things give it away. i will grab a pullt and take a couple pics in a minute.

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1562 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 16:10:10 »
asdklfjaslkdfjlkasdflkj

i just wrote out a very long post pointing out many things about genuine vs counterfeit soldapullts but an HTTP failure ate it up. i will edit this post later to point things out, but in the meantime, there are some bits are are very easy to spot, so here's a link to the gallery:

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/x3cbkj04j1ot3y5/JltPdWRsY4

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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1563 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 16:13:28 »
If you click to go back, generally the original draft remains (in Chrome anyway).  I've had the HTTP error happen a bunch of time, and I usually am able to retrieve my draft by going backwards then copying it to save.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1564 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 16:32:02 »
the post is quite gone. i'll summarize it quickly:

1) there should be plastic flash (excess plastic) around the nameplate (the nameplate part of the mold is actually modular. at some point we will get geekhack.org molded into our pullts :) ).

2) the pad printing of the model number on the packet should have all kinds of weird defects in it (it's old)

3) the piston rod is STEEL, not black plastic <-- VERY IMPORTANT!!

4) the button and piston rod retainer are completely captive. even if you pull all the springs off, they will stay in place.

5) the yellow or black butt-end is a form of rubber

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Offline Melanic

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1565 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 17:10:56 »

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1566 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 17:11:51 »
Yeah should be plenty for that :)  You shouldn't be using globs of solder for each joint.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1567 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 17:23:59 »
Has anyone used this solder for resoldering switches?
http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Metals-am31605-4oz-032elec-Solder/dp/B000G36BYU

Use this one instead:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Feet-of-Kester-44-Solder-Wire-60-40-031-Rosin-Core-FREE-SHIPPING-/321229207049
actually, i'm going to have to take issue with that. that solder is not eutectic, nor is it thin enough in diameter for clean joints on small DIP parts.

also, since it's on ebay, it's almost certainly expired.

ideally, the parameters you want are in kester 63sb/37pb RA 0.02 or 0.03. the geekhackers store will launch with this item in bite-sized chunks. in the meantime, it seems like there's a lot of activity, and i can run a small GB for the entire learn to solder kit with this item included.

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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1568 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 17:38:59 »
Oops, it's my bad--I linked the wrong kind :(  This is the one I meant, from the same seller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Feet-of-Kester-44-Solder-Wire-63-37-031-Rosin-Core-FREE-SHIPPING-/221299280136?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3386770908

There's also a thinner kind:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Feet-of-Kester-44-Solder-Wire-63-37-025-Rosin-Core-FREE-SHIPPING-/221280993487?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33856000cf

The first link I originally posted was what someone asked me if it was okay, and I had that saved for the seller :(  Sorry!
« Last Edit: Sun, 29 December 2013, 17:40:37 by Photoelectric »
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Offline 1pq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1569 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 18:27:10 »
Oops, it's my bad--I linked the wrong kind :(  This is the one I meant, from the same seller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Feet-of-Kester-44-Solder-Wire-63-37-031-Rosin-Core-FREE-SHIPPING-/221299280136?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3386770908

There's also a thinner kind:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Feet-of-Kester-44-Solder-Wire-63-37-025-Rosin-Core-FREE-SHIPPING-/221280993487?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33856000cf

The first link I originally posted was what someone asked me if it was okay, and I had that saved for the seller :(  Sorry!

Ahh. ty
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1570 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 18:35:46 »
that solder is almost certainly expired. also, 20' is about 5g of 0.025" solder. i would not buy from that seller.

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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1571 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 18:41:19 »
He's got good feedback for that solder, and $5 shipped is not much money.  But sure, could ask the seller for details.  If Geekhackers is selling Kester 44 separately in small amounts, I'd happily refer people to that route  :thumb:

P.S.: should listen to mkawa, he knows his soldering stuff :D
« Last Edit: Sun, 29 December 2013, 18:48:25 by Photoelectric »
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1572 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 18:45:34 »
[4:37:21 PM] Kirkle: expired solder
[4:37:22 PM] Kirkle: wat
[4:37:25 PM] Kirkle: how does metal expire
[4:37:32 PM] Kirkle: *insert huehuehue*
[4:40:47 PM] ming: oxidization
[4:40:59 PM] ming: lead is a highly volatile metal
[4:41:08 PM] ming: and it has a corrosive substance in the center of the strand

if one is lucky, the flux just becomes much less corrosive by eating away at the lead from the inside, and the lead will oxidize from the outside. in the worst case the strands can burst open and then the solder is nearly useless.

geekhackers.org will be selling unexpired solder, 30g for about 10$ including a dispenser. i have actually already sold this package to a number of people on the forums. if you can wait a little bit, it will go up on the store and not be cheated out of 5 hard earned dollars ;)

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1573 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 19:48:06 »
also just fyi, this is actual label on a spool of kester 44:

49364-0

such spools are also received with full materials handling data which documents every hand the spool passed through from the factory to your door.

notice that the ebay seller has strategically blanked out the DOM and lot number. there is a spot market for expired tooling and consumables the same way there is a spot market for anything else used in industrial processes. one way for a factory owner to cut costs and make extra margin on a manufacturing contract is to buy materials off this spot market and try to foil any quality control measures taken by the firm on the other side of the contract. some of this material also makes its way to the consumer market via ebay and other markets where traceability is difficult and consumers are not very discerning.

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1574 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 20:02:19 »
and here's what an ounce of 0.02" solder looks like


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Offline 1pq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1575 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 21:30:25 »
Ahh. Thanks for the info mkawa. I'm a total soldering noob :P
I guess I'll probably have to buy the $30 roll (amazon) unless anyone knows somewhere better to get it. Any recommendations would be very helpful.
Also, is 0.031'' too big for switch soldering?
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Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1576 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 21:36:07 »
Ahh. Thanks for the info mkawa. I'm a total soldering noob :P
I guess I'll probably have to buy the $30 roll (amazon) unless anyone knows somewhere better to get it. Any recommendations would be very helpful.
Also, is 0.031'' too big for switch soldering?

mkawa actually sells it. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but you can probably just PM him to place an order :).

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1577 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 21:40:13 »
0.031" is just fine for switch soldering and larger projects. 

You can wait for mkawa to reopen the geekhackers store for fresh cuts of Kester 44 off 1lb spools.  He said so above:
"geekhackers.org will be selling unexpired solder, 30g for about 10$ including a dispenser. i have actually already sold this package to a number of people on the forums. if you can wait a little bit, it will go up on the store and not be cheated out of 5 hard earned dollars"

If you want to do smaller scale soldering, 0.02" size will give you much greater control.  ~0.03" is okay for just switches and a few LEDs.  If you need solder asap, you can always get some MG Chemicals 63/37 variety.  I've gotten a couple rolls from Amazon and used some for a keyboard.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(It was $2.85 when I ordered it, but Amazon likes to randomly raise and lower prices on stuff over time)

But ~0.02" is significantly nicer to use though along with a fine tip soldering iron, as you'll make much neater joints (and I don't think MG Chemicals offers that diameter for their 63/37 solder).  Kester 44 also has a more active flux in it for cleaner joints.
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Offline 1pq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1578 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 21:56:13 »
0.031" is just fine for switch soldering and larger projects. 

You can wait for mkawa to reopen the geekhackers store for fresh cuts of Kester 44 off 1lb spools.  He said so above:
"geekhackers.org will be selling unexpired solder, 30g for about 10$ including a dispenser. i have actually already sold this package to a number of people on the forums. if you can wait a little bit, it will go up on the store and not be cheated out of 5 hard earned dollars"

If you want to do smaller scale soldering, 0.02" size will give you much greater control.  ~0.03" is okay for just switches and a few LEDs.  If you need solder asap, you can always get some MG Chemicals 63/37 variety.  I've gotten a couple rolls from Amazon and used some for a keyboard.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(It was $2.85 when I ordered it, but Amazon likes to randomly raise and lower prices on stuff over time)

But ~0.02" is significantly nicer to use though along with a fine tip soldering iron, as you'll make much neater joints (and I don't think MG Chemicals offers that diameter for their 63/37 solder).  Kester 44 also has a more active flux in it for cleaner joints.

Ahh, thanks. When can I expect geekhackers to reopen?
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Offline 1pq

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1579 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 22:00:10 »
Also, since I'm on a pretty tight budget, do you think any of the other items mentioned in the OP are necessary for desoldering/resoldering the switches on my tkl besides a Weller WLC100, radio shack solder sucker and kester 44? Can I get away with just that stuff?
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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1580 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 22:06:20 »
Scratch the radioshack iron and get a Soldapullt--from mkawa or from an official reseller (no third party resellers--too many inferior clones around).  RS iron + all the tips you'll go through when using it over time will cost more if you buy it brand new at RadioShack than a Soldapullt.  And Soldapullt has better suction.  On a budget, for occasional soldering, the Weller iron should be okay, though I'd recommend getting a finer chisel tip for it than the one it comes with.  I've used that iron for 3 keyboards, and everything went smoothly.

Things you need at a minumim on a tight budget would be 1. soldering iron, 2. Soldapullt, 3. Solder, 4. some sort of a sponge (Weller WLC100 comes with one)--you can also go for a brass "wool" sponge to complement.  You technically don't need flux or a desoldering braid, though they can be handy depending on what you're doing.  If you don't do any SMD soldering and just swap switches in one board, those 4 things are sufficient.  You don't really need a tip tinner either--you can tin the soldering iron tip with your solder line.
« Last Edit: Sun, 29 December 2013, 22:08:01 by Photoelectric »
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Offline jdcarpe

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1581 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 22:15:36 »
Also, I know some people use the Weller with great success, but I would still recommend the Yihua 936 over the Weller WLC-100 for the under $50 budget setup.
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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1582 on: Sun, 29 December 2013, 22:19:06 »
I didn't recommend that one because of Photekq's experience :(  But if you want to gamble on longevity, it's certainly a cheaper alternative with temperature control.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1583 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 02:04:56 »
Ahh. Thanks for the info mkawa. I'm a total soldering noob :P
I guess I'll probably have to buy the $30 roll (amazon) unless anyone knows somewhere better to get it. Any recommendations would be very helpful.
Also, is 0.031'' too big for switch soldering?


mkawa actually sells it. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but you can probably just PM him to place an order :).
yes, that's correct.

i violently disagree with any recommendation of the yihua 936. after seeing photekq's heater, i believe them to be outright dangerous.

i don't like the wlc100. i used it for years and it is glacially slow to do pretty much anything. that said, it won't electrocute you.

under 50$, my recommendation is either:

the hakko dash 25W

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-DASH-Soldering-Iron-25W/dp/B00FZPUQ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388389919&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+dash

weller wp35

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WP35-35-Watt-Professional-Soldering/dp/B000B5YIYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388390108&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+wp35

or i would spend the extra 10 dollars to get the special edysn value pack (that i cannot offer, it is not given to line distributors)

http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=CL1481-K

i designed my learn to solder kit to be an uprated and more complete version of this kit --- i include the sturdier versions of each tip, the full ds017gh soldapullt, cutters that will take a bit longer to dull, unexpired solder with a higher quality holder, etc. however, edsyn does still stock the parts of this kit and will send one to you for that price. if you are severely budget constrained, this is by far the best iron of the three i've listed, and as long as you think of the rest of the parts of the kit as expendable and consumable, you will not be disappointed.


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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1584 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 10:40:35 »
The first two of those irons are fixed at 450C, so be careful not heating joint areas for too long if you get those.
« Last Edit: Mon, 30 December 2013, 10:48:21 by Photoelectric »
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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1585 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 11:26:11 »
Hakko fx-600 and 933 are temperature controlled and they are sub-$50 range, me thinks.
933 is discontinued but if it is available at low cost I'd recommend it. You can use 900 series tips on 933 and very cheap clone tips and option parts are available on ebay Chinese sellers.

But I'd buy FX-888d at $90 instead of paying $50 for those irons if I'm in US. That price looks to me a good deal, it costs me around $130-150 in Japan.
« Last Edit: Mon, 30 December 2013, 11:28:29 by hasu »

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1586 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 13:25:09 »
in the US only the 601 is available and it is in the 70$ range. i can't recommend the 888d anymore after my experience with it. first, it's precise but not accurate. the microcontroller is very good at grabbing a temperature value from the temperature measurement device, but the temperature measurement device is extremely inaccurate over time, its calibration wanders to the point of uselessness. second, the heater is simply too small for the amount of power it dissipates. at my duty cycle, i was looking at a new heater every 8-9 months maximum, and worse, the heater is soldered directly to the iron board. there are no quick disconnects (unlikely, say, the 808).

re: the non-temperature controlled wp35 and the hakko dash line: both heat up to a maximum of 450C, but actual temperature will fluctuate due to the lack of temperature regulation hardware. this is actually a fine thing if you use your iron properly. however, it's a little hotter than i'd like. the cl1481 maxes out at about 400C, which i'm much more comfortable with. that is hot enough to desolder dreadful lead-free solder and replace it with leaded solder (yay), but it's significantly more difficult to burn a board at a max of 400C.


to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline tgujay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1587 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 13:27:54 »
in the US only the 601 is available and it is in the 70$ range. i can't recommend the 888d anymore after my experience with it. first, it's precise but not accurate. the microcontroller is very good at grabbing a temperature value from the temperature measurement device, but the temperature measurement device is extremely inaccurate over time, its calibration wanders to the point of uselessness. second, the heater is simply too small for the amount of power it dissipates. at my duty cycle, i was looking at a new heater every 8-9 months maximum, and worse, the heater is soldered directly to the iron board. there are no quick disconnects (unlikely, say, the 808).

re: the non-temperature controlled wp35 and the hakko dash line: both heat up to a maximum of 450C, but actual temperature will fluctuate due to the lack of temperature regulation hardware. this is actually a fine thing if you use your iron properly. however, it's a little hotter than i'd like. the cl1481 maxes out at about 400C, which i'm much more comfortable with. that is hot enough to desolder dreadful lead-free solder and replace it with leaded solder (yay), but it's significantly more difficult to burn a board at a max of 400C.



When can we get one of your kits?  My body is ready.
Gotta collect them all

Offline BlueBär

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1588 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 13:42:50 »
When can we get one of your kits?  My body is ready.

Now.

Offline tgujay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1589 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 13:53:31 »
When can we get one of your kits?  My body is ready.

Now.

Thanks!  If there is still a kit left in a couple weeks I will get one.
Gotta collect them all

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1590 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 14:12:20 »
Well, balls. I've gone and lifted a pad because I was too impatient to wait for mkawa's group buy and used the super ****ty (and too hot) iron that I had. I've had success before on a QFR, but something's different about the Poker II I'm working on now and pads are liftin' willy nilly.

What can I do to fix this? There's really only one solder joint that's messed up. (I stopped once I realized what was happening and am going to wait for better tools to finish this job.)

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1591 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 14:21:37 »
Sounds like you're touching the iron to the PCB for too long.  You want to just make the contact with switch pins and a bit of contact with the rings framing the hole the pins go into and for only so long as to melt the solder.  Be ready with a soldapullt in your other hand and suck in the molten solder asap.  That shouldn't lift any pads.  If you still have some filaments remaining deep in the holes and can't get it out easily, heat JUST the switch pins with your soldering iron and pull on the switch from the other side (I prop them with a small flat screw driver until the switches pop out, as I heat one pin then the other, then back to the first).  There's no reason to hold your iron on the PCB for long, as the solder melts pretty quickly.  If you use a soldering braid, that could definitely damage the surface of the traces from overheating.
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Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1592 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 14:29:56 »
Sounds like you're touching the iron to the PCB for too long.  You want to just make the contact with switch pins and a bit of contact with the rings framing the hole the pins go into and for only so long as to melt the solder.  Be ready with a soldapullt in your other hand and suck in the molten solder asap.  That shouldn't lift any pads.  If you still have some filaments remaining deep in the holes and can't get it out easily, heat JUST the switch pins with your soldering iron and pull on the switch from the other side (I prop them with a small flat screw driver until the switches pop out, as I heat one pin then the other, then back to the first).  There's no reason to hold your iron on the PCB for long, as the solder melts pretty quickly.  If you use a soldering braid, that could definitely damage the surface of the traces from overheating.

Thanks for this advice. Is there anything to be done for the ring that's already lifted?

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1593 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 14:34:39 »
Can you post a photo?  Is the ring physically detached from the trace or is it just looking lifted?  Or is it a copper insert that was removed from the other side of the PCB?
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Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1594 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 14:38:49 »
Can you post a photo?  Is the ring physically detached from the trace or is it just looking lifted?  Or is it a copper insert that was removed from the other side of the PCB?

Sorry, I can't get a high quality enough photo. The ring is physically detached from the trace :(. Here's a picture I've found of something similar (the upper right one):



Edit: it actually seems like the page that picture came from has a solution…

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1595 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 14:40:28 »
Oh :(  Looks like you'll need to use some copper wire to connect the traces with the pins there.
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Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1596 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 14:42:34 »
Yep, that seems to be the solution. Pretty frustrated with myself at the moment…  :-[

Offline tjcaustin

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1597 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 15:26:07 »
Pokers are the biggest pains in the ass to desolder.  Don't feel too bad.

I've pulled pads on pokers with everything I've ever used to desolder, including my fx-808.

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1598 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 15:29:00 »
Pokers are the biggest pains in the ass to desolder.  Don't feel too bad.

I've pulled pads on pokers with everything I've ever used to desolder, including my fx-808.

That makes me feel quite a bit better, at least. Since you seem to have some experience desoldering pokers, do you have anything to add to Photoelectric's suggestions? (They seem great, but I figure more opinions/experience can't hurt.)

Offline tjcaustin

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1599 on: Mon, 30 December 2013, 16:58:23 »
Pokers are the biggest pains in the ass to desolder.  Don't feel too bad.

I've pulled pads on pokers with everything I've ever used to desolder, including my fx-808.

That makes me feel quite a bit better, at least. Since you seem to have some experience desoldering pokers, do you have anything to add to Photoelectric's suggestions? (They seem great, but I figure more opinions/experience can't hurt.)

No, her recommendations are solid.