Post your BS boards here!

[Ludovician]

Work in progress

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What are you going to do with it?

[Melvang]

Getting mounted in my keyboard tray without a case.

[meow a cat]

Yeah it does suck. Everyone I've spoken to doesn't have replacements. Phosphorglow wasn't sure if he had any replacements. Clickykeyboards said no, and Unicomp said buy a full set of our caps.

It could be an excuse to buy some of those neato APL keycaps from Unicomp though?

It's lame the one you got from her has a broken case Rowdy (I think that was you, anyway.). Did she give you a bit of a discount for that?

The APL set looks pretty good. 

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You can also see more here...
http://imgur.com/a/bBFuv

That does look pretty good, thanks for the link Snowdog!

I finally have an SSK   ^-^

Now I just need to clean it...   :rolleyes:

What are you waiting for?  I'd like to know if it is actually working.  Did you get an SDL cable with it or have one handy to find out?  Oh and just using dish soap with oxyclean works pretty good.  Be sure the keys are dry when you put them back on!!!
  I can't wait to see it when it's sparkling!  Great catch Hoff!

I got mine from Cindy, and it works. I plugged it in and tested all of the keys. She also includes a cable with every SSK. It's really a steal for $75 if you ask me.

I believe that all keycaps included is also guaranteed :)

A full set is guaranteed, but not the exact caps for the board. Missing caps are replaced with Model M caps. My SSK came missing the SSK I and + keys, so I don't have the sublegends. It looks strange on the I key. Unicomp said they can make a replacement, but I have to buy a full set of caps.. and I don't know how good their quality is going to be.

I got a replacement set from Unicomp for SSK, but I only use the alpha/numeric keys. The rest are from other model M/F keyboard. I noticed a difference in the printing when the set first arrived but since using them for a few months now they just seem normal. The embedded number pad looks quite good actually, it is a light grey (if I had a good camera I would take some comparison photos but I don't so I could only bring potatoes to the party).

I think I know the light grey you're talking about, my stock SSK keys have a light grey embedded numpad too. So the printing is reasonably sharp? Are there any crooked prints? I have a cap from them that says GEEK HACK but both words are tilted at an angle. .-.

Thanks for your help! I feel better about a Unicomp set. How well do the alphas match the old alphas? I'd like to maybe keep it all original and just use the I/5 key with the originals. Would it look off?

[rowdy]

Yeah it does suck. Everyone I've spoken to doesn't have replacements. Phosphorglow wasn't sure if he had any replacements. Clickykeyboards said no, and Unicomp said buy a full set of our caps.

It could be an excuse to buy some of those neato APL keycaps from Unicomp though?

It's lame the one you got from her has a broken case Rowdy (I think that was you, anyway.). Did she give you a bit of a discount for that?

Could be a long-term project for you to replace all the keycaps.  I'm the same with one of my full size Model M - I could pay a relatively large amount of money to buy them from Unicomp, or just wait and get a few at a time when the opportunity presents.  So far I have acquired about 6 of the missing keycaps.

The little bit of missing case doesn't seem to affect the stability of the case - it stays clamped together at the front very well.  And I don't know if I got any extra discount, this one was $75, which is what I think everyone else was paying for used SSKs in various condition.

Mine has actually cleaned up pretty well, considering.

[fanpeople]

I think I know the light grey you're talking about, my stock SSK keys have a light grey embedded numpad too. So the printing is reasonably sharp? Are there any crooked prints? I have a cap from them that says GEEK HACK but both words are tilted at an angle. .-.

Thanks for your help! I feel better about a Unicomp set. How well do the alphas match the old alphas? I'd like to maybe keep it all original and just use the I/5 key with the originals. Would it look off?

Been trying to get this to post for a while now. I took some comparison shots, on the left is the original and on the right is the Unicomp key. I personally would not mix Unicomp keys with my originals as it is really noticeable. I think the printing is pretty good they are just different.

More

[rowdy]

Those Unicomp ones, although different, are probably closer to the originals than the non-SSK variants.

[fanpeople]

More

[snoopy]

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Love those fishbone keys

[fanpeople]

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Love those fishbone keys

I ended up buying a whole keyboard just to get them 

[rowdy]

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Love those fishbone keys

I ended up buying a whole keyboard just to get them 

Dedication

[meow a cat]

I think I know the light grey you're talking about, my stock SSK keys have a light grey embedded numpad too. So the printing is reasonably sharp? Are there any crooked prints? I have a cap from them that says GEEK HACK but both words are tilted at an angle. .-.

Thanks for your help! I feel better about a Unicomp set. How well do the alphas match the old alphas? I'd like to maybe keep it all original and just use the I/5 key with the originals. Would it look off?

Been trying to get this to post for a while now. I took some comparison shots, on the left is the original and on the right is the Unicomp key. I personally would not mix Unicomp keys with my originals as it is really noticeable. I think the printing is pretty good they are just different.

More

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Thanks for the photos, that's really helpful! 

They do look pretty good, maybe just a little bit fuzzier dyesubbing than the original IBMs. My original caps don't have the bold dark sublegends like yours though, so maybe they would match better. I might end up buying their replacement keyset.

Thanks again!

[njbair]

So do you have to contact Unicomp to get an SSK key set?  They don't show it in the store.

[meow a cat]

So do you have to contact Unicomp to get an SSK key set?  They don't show it in the store.

I contacted them to ask about getting individual keys, but that's a no. They just point you to here:

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/Buttons/CPSET

You put in your part number and they will make you a replica set.

[Sed8op8]

So do you have to contact Unicomp to get an SSK key set?  They don't show it in the store.

I contacted them to ask about getting individual keys, but that's a no. They just point you to here:

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/Buttons/CPSET

You put in your part number and they will make you a replica set.

Hey meow
How goes it man. Sorry about the Semi bad news about your board. I mean like you  and others have said you can get a new one from unicomp made. I don't think the custom key set comes with the space bar though through unicomp. Anyways my SSK comes on Monday . I'm super excited and crossing my fingers for a unit with little to no damage . I have already contacted phosphorglow to discuss restoration within 4-6 weeks I should have a fully working and restored SSK ! (That is if my board comes comes in not completely destroyed) anyways please post some pics when you get your board figured out. Also meow I'm going to PM you later on today as I have a slight dilemma with one of my gaming pcs and could use your opinion! Anyways cheers guys

[njbair]

So do you have to contact Unicomp to get an SSK key set?  They don't show it in the store.

I contacted them to ask about getting individual keys, but that's a no. They just point you to here:

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/Buttons/CPSET

You put in your part number and they will make you a replica set.

What part number? The SSK part number (1391472)?

[Ludovician]

So do they not do actual custom sets at all? That's disappointing.

[Snowdog993]

So do you have to contact Unicomp to get an SSK key set?  They don't show it in the store.

I contacted them to ask about getting individual keys, but that's a no. They just point you to here:

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/Buttons/CPSET

You put in your part number and they will make you a replica set.

What part number? The SSK part number (1391472)?

Yes, that is what you would do.

[meow a cat]

So do you have to contact Unicomp to get an SSK key set?  They don't show it in the store.

I contacted them to ask about getting individual keys, but that's a no. They just point you to here:

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/Buttons/CPSET

You put in your part number and they will make you a replica set.

Hey meow
How goes it man. Sorry about the Semi bad news about your board. I mean like you  and others have said you can get a new one from unicomp made. I don't think the custom key set comes with the space bar though through unicomp. Anyways my SSK comes on Monday . I'm super excited and crossing my fingers for a unit with little to no damage . I have already contacted phosphorglow to discuss restoration within 4-6 weeks I should have a fully working and restored SSK ! (That is if my board comes comes in not completely destroyed) anyways please post some pics when you get your board figured out. Also meow I'm going to PM you later on today as I have a slight dilemma with one of my gaming pcs and could use your opinion! Anyways cheers guys

I just paid Phosphorglow for my restoration this morning! I'm super excited to get it shipped out to him. Can't wait to see what he can do with it.

Yeah, no space bars by the looks of it. But they only cost a few dollars for a matching Unicomp spacebar. Unicomps shipping REALLY sucks for international though, but last time I ordered through them I asked specifically for cheaper shipping and they hooked me up with $8 shipping instead of $22 shipping for a WASD and RGB set and a few single keys.

You should end up with something pretty decent, I think Cindy mentioned that only one or two had broken cases and Rowdy ended up with one. Aside from a broken case, I think Phosphorglow can restore just about anything; from looking at his site it seems like he's brought boards back to life that were in way worse shape than the ones Cindy has.

Feel free to PM me whenever, I'll see if I can help!

[njbair]

Hey Rowdy if I end up replacing my keys with Unicomp keys I'll let you have any of the originals you may need. Just pay shipping from the US.

[rowdy]

Hey Rowdy if I end up replacing my keys with Unicomp keys I'll let you have any of the originals you may need. Just pay shipping from the US.

For my latest SSK I think I'm right.  I/m pretty sure all the SSK-specific keys are here.

I do still need a few assorted keycaps for my other full size Model M, if that's what you were referring to

[njbair]

Hey Rowdy if I end up replacing my keys with Unicomp keys I'll let you have any of the originals you may need. Just pay shipping from the US.

For my latest SSK I think I'm right.  I/m pretty sure all the SSK-specific keys are here.

I do still need a few assorted keycaps for my other full size Model M, if that's what you were referring to

I thought you meant the SSK. Unfortunately for you my full size M is all set so I don't need to replace those keys.

[Ludovician]

Rowdy, I need to make an order from Unicomp, so if you need any keys I'd be happy to add them to my order and post them to you. Alternatively, trievalot sells replacement Model M caps on ebay, although availability would be limited.

[rowdy]

Rowdy, I need to make an order from Unicomp, so if you need any keys I'd be happy to add them to my order and post them to you. Alternatively, trievalot sells replacement Model M caps on ebay, although availability would be limited.

That sounds like a good idea.  trievalot does not have all the keys I need, and including postage would be about the same as ordering from Unicomp.  Plus I might get an RGB set from Unicomp at the same time.

I'll PM you

[Sed8op8]

Meow
You must be stoked to have sent your board. Unfortunately these old IBMs are heavy shipping must have been a pretty big hit ughhh although Maxx's services seem very reasonably priced to me so that's good. Did you opt for the works as far as options go Bolt modding,USB mod, Caps lock ,scroll and num LEDs and colored underlay? I should be getting my Board from Cindy today and I'm going to try and ship out by Wednesday at the latest. Exciting stuff man you better post some pics when your baby gets back ! Congrats again and hopefully you have a great week.

[CPTBadAss]

Meow
You must be stoked to have sent your board. Unfortunately these old IBMs are heavy shipping must have been a pretty big hit ughhh although Maxx's services seem very reasonably priced to me so that's good. Did you opt for the works as far as options go Bolt modding,USB mod, Caps lock ,scroll and num LEDs and colored underlay? I should be getting my Board from Cindy today and I'm going to try and ship out by Wednesday at the latest. Exciting stuff man you better post some pics when your baby gets back ! Congrats again and hopefully you have a great week.

IBM Ms fit in a USPS Flat Rate Board Game Box. $18 with up to 70 lbs shipping. Weight isn't really an issue with boards unless we're talking like Chyron boards or a Beamspring.

[Sed8op8]

Meow
You must be stoked to have sent your board. Unfortunately these old IBMs are heavy shipping must have been a pretty big hit ughhh although Maxx's services seem very reasonably priced to me so that's good. Did you opt for the works as far as options go Bolt modding,USB mod, Caps lock ,scroll and num LEDs and colored underlay? I should be getting my Board from Cindy today and I'm going to try and ship out by Wednesday at the latest. Exciting stuff man you better post some pics when your baby gets back ! Congrats again and hopefully you have a great week.

IBM Ms fit in a USPS Flat Rate Board Game Box. $18 with up to 70 lbs shipping. Weight isn't really an issue with boards unless we're talking like Chyron boards or a Beamspring.

I just found that out lol and ya that's what mine cost to send ($18)I think meows in Canada though so I'm not sure if shipping is different there.

[rowdy]

Meow
You must be stoked to have sent your board. Unfortunately these old IBMs are heavy shipping must have been a pretty big hit ughhh although Maxx's services seem very reasonably priced to me so that's good. Did you opt for the works as far as options go Bolt modding,USB mod, Caps lock ,scroll and num LEDs and colored underlay? I should be getting my Board from Cindy today and I'm going to try and ship out by Wednesday at the latest. Exciting stuff man you better post some pics when your baby gets back ! Congrats again and hopefully you have a great week.

IBM Ms fit in a USPS Flat Rate Board Game Box. $18 with up to 70 lbs shipping. Weight isn't really an issue with boards unless we're talking like Chyron boards or a Beamspring.

I just found that out lol and ya that's what mine cost to send ($18)I think meows in Canada though so I'm not sure if shipping is different there.

You lot don't know how lucky you are with cheap shipping.

[fanpeople]

Meow
You must be stoked to have sent your board. Unfortunately these old IBMs are heavy shipping must have been a pretty big hit ughhh although Maxx's services seem very reasonably priced to me so that's good. Did you opt for the works as far as options go Bolt modding,USB mod, Caps lock ,scroll and num LEDs and colored underlay? I should be getting my Board from Cindy today and I'm going to try and ship out by Wednesday at the latest. Exciting stuff man you better post some pics when your baby gets back ! Congrats again and hopefully you have a great week.

IBM Ms fit in a USPS Flat Rate Board Game Box. $18 with up to 70 lbs shipping. Weight isn't really an issue with boards unless we're talking like Chyron boards or a Beamspring.

I just found that out lol and ya that's what mine cost to send ($18)I think meows in Canada though so I'm not sure if shipping is different there.

You lot don't know how lucky you are with cheap shipping.

#whenpostagecostmorethanyourboardandthenyoupaylikeanextra25percentbecauseoftheexchangerate

[meow a cat]

Meow
You must be stoked to have sent your board. Unfortunately these old IBMs are heavy shipping must have been a pretty big hit ughhh although Maxx's services seem very reasonably priced to me so that's good. Did you opt for the works as far as options go Bolt modding,USB mod, Caps lock ,scroll and num LEDs and colored underlay? I should be getting my Board from Cindy today and I'm going to try and ship out by Wednesday at the latest. Exciting stuff man you better post some pics when your baby gets back ! Congrats again and hopefully you have a great week.

I had him do everything but the USB mod (I prefer PS/2, saves me a valuable USB port for some more flight sim equipment..), all in blue. Should look great! 

It should arrive at his place tomorrow! 

[Snowdog993]

Start out with a 1395162 keyboard.  Open up the chassis and pull out the controller and cable.



Find a 1398011 controller.  (A controller from a 1391401 keyboard.)  (About $20)



Replace the controller with the new controller, attach the cables to the controller.
Fully functional keyboard as it sits.
Edit: You can also order a replacement SDL detachable cable from Unicomp for $15, or buy one of Orihalcon's SDL to USB cables.

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/Cables/1395110

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEIGE-USB-to-SDL-6-Pin-6ft-IBM-Lexmark-Unicomp-Model-M-Clicky-Keyboard-Cable-NEW-/271470078682



If you feel ambitious enough, get a LED Overlay from Unicomp ($1.50).  And get the LED assembly by ordering a Membrane assembly and putting in "LED Asm P/N 13N3297" for the part number.  ($10)
Attach a 4-Pin header to pins 9-12 on the controller and 1-4 on the LED panel.




You will need to drill out the holes for the LED lights to shine through.  Carefully line up the LED Overlay where you would put it, and mark the center of where each LED is.  (I use a black marker pen and make a + sign where each one goes.  I also use a hot tip from a soldering iron and make a small indentation in the plastic for a guide for the drill bit.)  Drill the 3 holes.  Smooth the burrs and put the LED Overlay in place.





Project is finished.  The keyboard looks and functions exactly like a 1391401, and you have a layout identical to one as well.  (The only minor difference is the ⁺z on the + key on the numpad, and the Setup underneath the - key on the numpad.  Kinda cool looking, actually.)



This is just a fun project to me, but I thought I would share how it's all done.  I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future.  Those terminal boards are a good deal, but take into consideration the cost of doing this project as well if you decide to get one.  Enjoy!

Edit: I went and found some more pictures to illustrate how the panel is done.  They may not be from that particular keyboard, however.

[CPTBadAss]

Start out with a 1395162 keyboard.  Open up the chassis and pull out the controller and cable.

Show Image

Find a 1398011 controller.  (A controller from a 1391401 keyboard.)  (About $20)

Show Image

Replace the controller with the new controller, attach the cables to the controller.
Fully functional keyboard as it sits.
Edit: You can also order a replacement SDL detachable cable from Unicomp for $15, or buy one of Orihalcon's SDL to USB cables.

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/Cables/1395110

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEIGE-USB-to-SDL-6-Pin-6ft-IBM-Lexmark-Unicomp-Model-M-Clicky-Keyboard-Cable-NEW-/271470078682

Show Image

If you feel ambitious enough, get a LED Overlay from Unicomp ($1.50).  And get the LED assembly by ordering a Membrane assembly and putting in "LED Asm P/N 13N3297" for the part number.  ($10)
Attach a 4-Pin header to pins 9-12 on the controller and 1-4 on the LED panel.

Show Image

Show Image

You will need to drill out the holes for the LED lights to shine through.  Carefully line up the LED Overlay where you would put it, and mark the center of where each LED is.  (I use a black marker pen and make a + sign where each one goes.  I also use a hot tip from a soldering iron and make a small indentation in the plastic for a guide for the drill bit.)  Drill the 3 holes.  Smooth the burrs and put the LED Overlay in place.

Show Image

Project is finished.  The keyboard looks and functions exactly like a 1391401, and you have a layout identical to one as well.  (The only minor difference is the ⁺z on the + key on the numpad, and the Setup underneath the - key on the numpad.  Kinda cool looking, actually.)

This is just a fun project to me, but I thought I would share how it's all done.  I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future.  Those terminal boards are a good deal, but take into consideration the cost of doing this project as well if you decide to get one.  Enjoy!

Huh, that's cool. Didn't realize you could hot swap the controllers like that. Was thinking of using a Soarers for my Terminal M but now I've got options.

[Khers]

.

[Belfong]

Two SSKs:

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Whoa! Super cool!

[Khers]

.

[njbair]

Two SSKs:

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The large nap of your carpeting makes these look like tiny Barbie keyboards.

[Khers]

.

[fanpeople]

Have just finished bolt (screw) modding, new springs that feel much better. Gave it a clean good to go.

New Unicomp LED overlay is eating at my OCD. Its not straight and you can see plastic through the window. It would also be all black but I don't have the proper black space bar or enough keys to do ctrl alt.


[ Specified attachment is not available ]

[Snowdog993]

Have just finished bolt (screw) modding, new springs that feel much better. Gave it a clean good to go.

New Unicomp LED overlay is eating at my OCD. Its not straight and you can see plastic through the window. It would also be all black but I don't have the proper black space bar or enough keys to do ctrl alt.


(Attachment Link)

Razor knife (or blade).  Extend the blade the height of the sticker and work under the overlay gently until you get it off.  It's not too hard to do, but be delicate when you do it.

Did you bolt mod the original industrial?  Nice job!  I wasn't sure if you modified your other keyboard to ANSI with a bolt mod or ?

Did you want to go entirely black or maybe go all purple as the secondary color?  That would be pretty cool.

[fanpeople]

Have just finished bolt (screw) modding, new springs that feel much better. Gave it a clean good to go.

New Unicomp LED overlay is eating at my OCD. Its not straight and you can see plastic through the window. It would also be all black but I don't have the proper black space bar or enough keys to do ctrl alt.


(Attachment Link)

Razor knife (or blade).  Extend the blade the height of the sticker and work under the overlay gently until you get it off.  It's not too hard to do, but be delicate when you do it.

Did you bolt mod the original industrial?  Nice job!  I wasn't sure if you modified your other keyboard to ANSI with a bolt mod or ?

Did you want to go entirely black or maybe go all purple as the secondary color?  That would be pretty cool.

The problem is that the clear bit on the LED panel extends over where the LED hole in the keyboard ends. Because it is an Industrial I am not game to drill into the case to get rid of the plastic that you can see, as it would be damaging the board.

I ended up cleaning the original internals of the industrial and putting in new springs. It cleaned up pretty well. I also used some double sided tape to layer over where the knobs are which hold the top part of the sandwich (the bits which got guillotined off during transport). This stopped the internals sliding around when flipped and such.

I was going to go with all black just to keep it simple, I had those purple arrow keys sitting around so decided to add some colour.

I am going to get some new springs and ANSI mod that other board, so will most likely get the rest of the black keys when I do that. I do like purple so we will see what happens when I place an order with Unicomp.

Funny thing is, I like the look of the industrial but I miss the SSK already and want to reinstall it as my daily driver..... that needs a bolt mod also.

[Snowdog993]

Have just finished bolt (screw) modding, new springs that feel much better. Gave it a clean good to go.

New Unicomp LED overlay is eating at my OCD. Its not straight and you can see plastic through the window. It would also be all black but I don't have the proper black space bar or enough keys to do ctrl alt.


(Attachment Link)

Razor knife (or blade).  Extend the blade the height of the sticker and work under the overlay gently until you get it off.  It's not too hard to do, but be delicate when you do it.

Did you bolt mod the original industrial?  Nice job!  I wasn't sure if you modified your other keyboard to ANSI with a bolt mod or ?

Did you want to go entirely black or maybe go all purple as the secondary color?  That would be pretty cool.

The problem is that the clear bit on the LED panel extends over where the LED hole in the keyboard ends. Because it is an Industrial I am not game to drill into the case to get rid of the plastic that you can see, as it would be damaging the board.

I ended up cleaning the original internals of the industrial and putting in new springs. It cleaned up pretty well. I also used some double sided tape to layer over where the knobs are which hold the top part of the sandwich (the bits which got guillotined off during transport). This stopped the internals sliding around when flipped and such.

I was going to go with all black just to keep it simple, I had those purple arrow keys sitting around so decided to add some colour.

I am going to get some new springs and ANSI mod that other board, so will most likely get the rest of the black keys when I do that. I do like purple so we will see what happens when I place an order with Unicomp.

Funny thing is, I like the look of the industrial but I miss the SSK already and want to reinstall it as my daily driver..... that needs a bolt mod also.

The removal of the keyboard LED overlay would allow you to re-align the holes to the indicator.  You just carefully remove it and replace it back correctly.  It's not too hard to do, just take your time.

The double-sided tape is a pretty good idea.  As long as the assembly doesn't move, you're good.

I kinda like legends to find my way around sometimes.  I tend to forget the shift of what is for what.  I usually look when that happens.  Most of the time I am okay.  Hunt and peck if I miss.  Perhaps maybe someday there will be someone that will actually produce white legends on black keys for the model M keyboards again.  It would be nice to see.  (I'd prefer double-shot if that were going to happen, maybe an IBM Selectric type font on it too.)

Are you going to bolt-mod both your other keyboards?  That would be really cool.  I'm definitely not an expert at that.  I leave that to Phosphorglow to be honest.  I'm better at the simpler projects.

[Venatorious]

edit:

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Right to left.

Top row 2* IBM "unsaver" model F, IBM "pingmaster" japanese keyboard (in box), "Rubber dome M 101
next row: "oldest known" 122-key model F, KB assembly has been replaced with a NIB one (rest of KB is in a box)
Next row: IBM DIsplaywriter keyboard, IBM correcting selectric II, IBM dome 122-key (in box), PC/XT model F (in foam)
next row: IBM 3278 keyboard
Next row IBM 3178 keyboard, IBM wheelwriter 10 series 2 (boltmodded), IBM AT model F
next row: M13
next row: IBM terminal KB (parts unit), unicomp 104-key, AT&T KB305 terminal emulator variant (the buckling spring at&t board)
next row: IBM 4704-200, 2* IBM 4704-100, 1390120, IBM LPFK (cherry M8 switches)

In the corner are my lightsaver and ergodox half gamepad.

That's all the IBM I could find.

Edit: missing 2 wheelwriter keyboards I have in a box somewhere.

Looks like a very good collection, I hope to see an unsaver soon.  I am intrigued by the "pingmaster" keyboard. Audio perhaps?

You can't just not show us the red LEDs, man!

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hnnnggggg   Looks so dam gud

Thank you, M13, for your sacrifice.

1390131 internals; industrial case; keycaps, logo badge and LED cover from M13 case.

Show Image

This was a really good choice. Everything goes well together and looks amazing.  :thumb:  Its a shame that the legends on the M13 are pad printed, if the legends were say laser engraved I might want some for my keyboard.

My simple Model M... Nothing special like you guys but I still love it :P I really hope to own a SSK one day...

Thank you to ComradeSniper for this baby ~

Daytime:

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Nighttime:

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Simple is not always bad. I like how you captured this model M, enjoyed viewing the pictures.

Low light picture.

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Oh my, that looks quite like a keyboard fit for the gods. I don't even like 60% that much, but the kish is so amazing in its form and build that it still makes me wow every time I see one.

My oldest industrial
(Attachment Link)
here is a shot of the label
(Attachment Link)

Wanting that black logo...

Start out with a 1395162 keyboard.  Open up the chassis and pull out the controller and cable.

Show Image

Find a 1398011 controller.  (A controller from a 1391401 keyboard.)  (About $20)

Show Image

Replace the controller with the new controller, attach the cables to the controller.
Fully functional keyboard as it sits.
Edit: You can also order a replacement SDL detachable cable from Unicomp for $15, or buy one of Orihalcon's SDL to USB cables.

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/Cables/1395110

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEIGE-USB-to-SDL-6-Pin-6ft-IBM-Lexmark-Unicomp-Model-M-Clicky-Keyboard-Cable-NEW-/271470078682

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If you feel ambitious enough, get a LED Overlay from Unicomp ($1.50).  And get the LED assembly by ordering a Membrane assembly and putting in "LED Asm P/N 13N3297" for the part number.  ($10)
Attach a 4-Pin header to pins 9-12 on the controller and 1-4 on the LED panel.

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You will need to drill out the holes for the LED lights to shine through.  Carefully line up the LED Overlay where you would put it, and mark the center of where each LED is.  (I use a black marker pen and make a + sign where each one goes.  I also use a hot tip from a soldering iron and make a small indentation in the plastic for a guide for the drill bit.)  Drill the 3 holes.  Smooth the burrs and put the LED Overlay in place.

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Project is finished.  The keyboard looks and functions exactly like a 1391401, and you have a layout identical to one as well.  (The only minor difference is the ⁺z on the + key on the numpad, and the Setup underneath the - key on the numpad.  Kinda cool looking, actually.)

This is just a fun project to me, but I thought I would share how it's all done.  I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future.  Those terminal boards are a good deal, but take into consideration the cost of doing this project as well if you decide to get one.  Enjoy!

I had no idea you could do this, and it looks like a lot less work than just doing a Teensy and maybe less cost.

I got an unsaver today.

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Did you get this one from Ellipse? I think I saw you on DT.

Just got this back from the powdercoater.

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I'm still deciding on what keycaps I want with it and figuring out how to program the DPH (when I installed it, the Xwhatsit wasn't 100% working with the 107)

That looks amazing. Is it like gunmetal gray? Looks like the inside barrel of a gun. Much respect.

Forget your dinky little plastic membrane model Ms, here's a real BS keyboard:

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This thing is beast beyond all belief, and the size of a small whale. <3

Those original banking IBM terminal keys are spectacular.









I need to get some good pics of my ANSI modded F122, I might post them later.

[Snowdog993]

I have more pictures in my Imgur album now.
http://snowdog993.imgur.com/
It's well worth the look around.

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[fanpeople]

The removal of the keyboard LED overlay would allow you to re-align the holes to the indicator.  You just carefully remove it and replace it back correctly.  It's not too hard to do, just take your time.

Are you going to bolt-mod both your other keyboards?  That would be really cool.  I'm definitely not an expert at that.  I leave that to Phosphorglow to be honest.  I'm better at the simpler projects.

The holes for the LEDs and the clear windows in the overlay don't align because of factory manufacturing, the overlay itself is sitting in the overlay groove perfectly. It wouldn't fix it by peeling it off and realigning.

as a matter of fact I just finished bolt (screw) modding and converting to ANSI the French-Canadian Model M, I also changed out the LEDs for orange.

The key caps will eventually be standard once I get around to cleaning up the spares I have, so for the moment its a bit of a key cap mix.

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[Snowdog993]

The LEDs and the clear windows in the overlay don't align because of factory manufacturing, the overlay itself is sitting in the overlay groove perfectly. It wouldn't fix it by peeling it off and realigning.

as a matter of fact I just finished bolt (screw) modding and converting to ANSI the French-Canadian Model M, I also changed out the LEDs for orange.

The key caps will eventually be standard once I get around to cleaning up the spares I have, so for the moment its a bit of a key cap mix.

Oh man, I thought it was just an alignment problem.  That's a shame.  Maybe it's just a bit of plastic, like a burr or something you can fish out?  Aww.

I do like the Orange LED mod.  Very cool, and I do like your converting it to ANSI.  Your bolt mod was successful!  Better than I can say.  I'm very impressed!

Have you decided what caps you are going to put on it?  I did get the APL set from Unicomp but had a few keys which they did replace for me that were out of alignment.  That is a pretty set.  I still ordered 3 new End keys because it didn't align with the Delete key.  I finally have the set, and I boxed it back for a future keyboard.

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http://imgur.com/a/bBFuv

This is my playing around and finishing the APL and then finally putting the stock caps back on. That keyboard was used by my nephew and I felt he would be lost with the stock caps.  He just used it until he got his keyboard back from Phosphorglow.  (BTW that keyboard turned out NICE!)

[Snowdog993]

1391401 *For reference.


Converted Terminal Boards:
Just the controller is swapped to a regular 1391401 SDL controller.  That's it!

1395162


1394204 With Unicomp APL keyset (So my nephew wouldn't be confused by legends)
*Notice the blank key below the + on the numpad.  (Reserved)


1394204  Back to normal now.


1395665


1392595 "Weirdo" (e29 coincidence)


1392595


All successful.  If you are wondering about the keys above the enter key on the numpad, the key above the enter key actually is read as "reserved" by the controller.  Above the "reserved" key is the + key and above that the - key.
Regardless of the legends on the keys, it's just a regular 1391401. 

The 1395162 is an almost exact match to a 1391401.  That keyboard (for the legends) would be the best one for the conversion.  (Or just replace the legends if you can't stand terminal legends)  But why do that?  They are all awesome!

[Touch_It]

My 1390131 barcode label M.  Sucky pics.  More to come later.  Same with my model F 122 key.

Ps my pics suck compared to snowdogs'

[Snowdog993]

Your pictures are just fine Touch_It. 

[Snowdog993]

A couple more to show.

IBM SSK Phosphorglow Restoration:


IBM Trackpoint M13 brought back to life by Phosphorglow:

[njbair]

A couple more to show.

IBM SSK Phosphorglow Restoration:

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IBM Trackpoint M13 brought back to life by Phosphorglow:

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Stop making me want a trackpoint.

[HoffmanMyster]

A couple more to show.

IBM SSK Phosphorglow Restoration:

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IBM Trackpoint M13 brought back to life by Phosphorglow:

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Stop making me want a trackpoint.

+1

Those are some great looking boards, snowdog.