Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[ramencup]

Describe the feel of Topre switches.

[SpAmRaY]

Describe the feel of Topre switches.

That's not a simple question.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[rowdy]

Describe the feel of Topre switches.

There are no switches per se.

There are sliders - they feel like slightly slippery plastic cylinders with bits sticking out one end.

There are rubber domes - they feel like squishy rubber, sort of like a soft rubber ball.

[rowdy]

Here's a simple question (hopefully):

When did Watsters become a thing?

Here's a less simple question:

How did I miss them?

[xtrafrood]

Watster eh? hmmm.. intriguing..

[davkol]

Found this one-year-old group buy at SP. Some were made by GMK too, though.

[rowdy]

Found this one-year-old group buy at SP. Some were made by GMK too, though.

Thanks - I've missed it for about a year then )

Limit 5 per person - not like the Sadster where people were buying several hundred each.

[crtexcnndrm99]

Where can I get the alu 1u switch blockers for the KMAC1?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[xtrafrood]

Found this one-year-old group buy at SP. Some were made by GMK too, though.

Thanks - I've missed it for about a year then )

Limit 5 per person - not like the Sadster where people were buying several hundred each.

Sigh, so many caps to hunt down

[_rubik]

I'm looking to get my neighbor (who's 13), a mech for the desktop we built together for xmas. I really know nothing about the consumer keyboard market thanks to you all.... so what are some recommendations. I'm thinking tkl with a tactile switch. Does Corsair or Coolermaster still make decent boards?

[_haru]

I'm looking to get my neighbor (who's 13), a mech for the desktop we built together for xmas. I really know nothing about the consumer keyboard market thanks to you all.... so what are some recommendations. I'm thinking tkl with a tactile switch. Does Corsair or Coolermaster still make decent boards?

Rantopad MXX kit off Aliexpress. $45 AUD ish. Add some Taobao vintage mx clears from an old Cherry PCB (message me here or on IRC for the link) and some cheap but decent pbt caps and you're good to go

[iFreilicht]

I'm looking to get my neighbor (who's 13), a mech for the desktop we built together for xmas. I really know nothing about the consumer keyboard market thanks to you all.... so what are some recommendations. I'm thinking tkl with a tactile switch. Does Corsair or Coolermaster still make decent boards?

Yes, Cooler Master still makes good boards. Corsair is frowned upon because of the non-standard bottom row. The Masterkeys S would suit your bill well. Take a look and see if one of its variants fits your price range.

[Glod]

When were IBM pingmaster made up until and can i find out the date anywhere? I just bought one of those new in boxes ones from EBAY and they feel and look like they are from the 2000s but smell like they are from 1980s.

[8idl]

Does anyone have any experience installing hot swap pockets on a Tada68 PCB? Specifically, are the ones in the link below compatible with the Tada68 PCB? Any response is much appreciated!

https://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/gold-plated-hot-swap-sockets-for-pcbs

[_rubik]

I'm looking to get my neighbor (who's 13), a mech for the desktop we built together for xmas. I really know nothing about the consumer keyboard market thanks to you all.... so what are some recommendations. I'm thinking tkl with a tactile switch. Does Corsair or Coolermaster still make decent boards?

Yes, Cooler Master still makes good boards. Corsair is frowned upon because of the non-standard bottom row. The Masterkeys S would suit your bill well. Take a look and see if one of its variants fits your price range.

I ended up taking your advice and he's thrilled to bits. It's a fun board, too. Thanks!

[ramencup]

How much noise do Box Whites generate compared to normal MX Blues?
I ask because I may be building a CA66 kit with them.
I know clicky switches are going always going to be somewhat loud but I prefer a more reasonable level of noise.

[wulphy]

I'm purchasing a board with a GonNerd60 PCB, and the current owner has it set up as a split right shift. How difficult would it be for me to turn it into a regular sized shift? I'm new to soldering/desoldering switches.

Board in question:

https://imgur.com/a/oapHk

[user 18]

I'm purchasing a board with a GonNerd60 PCB, and the current owner has it set up as a split right shift. How difficult would it be for me to turn it into a regular sized shift? I'm new to soldering/desoldering switches.

Board in question:

https://imgur.com/a/oapHk

You would need to desolder the two switches of the split shift, and resolder one of them into the single shift position. You'd also need to get stabilizers for the 2.75u shift. That board has PCB mount stabilizers, but I don't think you'll be able to get PCB mount stabs in without desoldering every switch. You might be able to get a plate mount stabilizer in without such an issue, although I've never tried on that type of plate.

Once all of that is done, you may need to reflash a new layout as well. Gon boards are pretty easy on that front, in my experience.

When desoldering and resoldering (particularly the former), there's always a potential for damaging the PCB, lifting pads, etc.

If you can live with the split shift, I'd suggest keeping it split, I personally think that changing it back would be more effort than it's worth.

[davkol]

How much noise do Box Whites generate compared to normal MX Blues?

Significantly louder and crisper.

[ideus]

I'm purchasing a board with a GonNerd60 PCB, and the current owner has it set up as a split right shift. How difficult would it be for me to turn it into a regular sized shift? I'm new to soldering/desoldering switches.

Board in question:

https://imgur.com/a/oapHk

You would need to desolder the two switches of the split shift, and resolder one of them into the single shift position. You'd also need to get stabilizers for the 2.75u shift. That board has PCB mount stabilizers, but I don't think you'll be able to get PCB mount stabs in without desoldering every switch. You might be able to get a plate mount stabilizer in without such an issue, although I've never tried on that type of plate.

Once all of that is done, you may need to reflash a new layout as well. Gon boards are pretty easy on that front, in my experience.

When desoldering and resoldering (particularly the former), there's always a potential for damaging the PCB, lifting pads, etc.

If you can live with the split shift, I'd suggest keeping it split, I personally think that changing it back would be more effort than it's worth.

I encourage you to keep it as it is, unless you have the proper tools for desoldering switches, the PCB is very easy to get damaged. I have one Nerd60 that is now unusable, because I wanted to change its layout. As mentioned previously, the stabs are very hard to get off of under the plate, so you may need to desolder everything just to change it.

[wulphy]

I'm purchasing a board with a GonNerd60 PCB, and the current owner has it set up as a split right shift. How difficult would it be for me to turn it into a regular sized shift? I'm new to soldering/desoldering switches.

Board in question:

https://imgur.com/a/oapHk

You would need to desolder the two switches of the split shift, and resolder one of them into the single shift position. You'd also need to get stabilizers for the 2.75u shift. That board has PCB mount stabilizers, but I don't think you'll be able to get PCB mount stabs in without desoldering every switch. You might be able to get a plate mount stabilizer in without such an issue, although I've never tried on that type of plate.

Once all of that is done, you may need to reflash a new layout as well. Gon boards are pretty easy on that front, in my experience.

When desoldering and resoldering (particularly the former), there's always a potential for damaging the PCB, lifting pads, etc.

If you can live with the split shift, I'd suggest keeping it split, I personally think that changing it back would be more effort than it's worth.

I encourage you to keep it as it is, unless you have the proper tools for desoldering switches, the PCB is very easy to get damaged. I have one Nerd60 that is now unusable, because I wanted to change its layout. As mentioned previously, the stabs are very hard to get off of under the plate, so you may need to desolder everything just to change it.

I'm purchasing a board with a GonNerd60 PCB, and the current owner has it set up as a split right shift. How difficult would it be for me to turn it into a regular sized shift? I'm new to soldering/desoldering switches.

Board in question:

https://imgur.com/a/oapHk

You would need to desolder the two switches of the split shift, and resolder one of them into the single shift position. You'd also need to get stabilizers for the 2.75u shift. That board has PCB mount stabilizers, but I don't think you'll be able to get PCB mount stabs in without desoldering every switch. You might be able to get a plate mount stabilizer in without such an issue, although I've never tried on that type of plate.

Once all of that is done, you may need to reflash a new layout as well. Gon boards are pretty easy on that front, in my experience.

When desoldering and resoldering (particularly the former), there's always a potential for damaging the PCB, lifting pads, etc.

If you can live with the split shift, I'd suggest keeping it split, I personally think that changing it back would be more effort than it's worth.

Thanks for the advice guys- I will keep the board as is and try to trade for the XDA Godspeed modifiers I'm missing for the split shift.

[KeLorean]

I'm looking for an index of switches, including modded switches

Sent from my Z971 using Tapatalk

[jdcarpe]

I'm looking for an index of switches, including modded switches

Sent from my Z971 using Tapatalk

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/switch_guides

[ramencup]

How does the 45g variant of the Realforce 87U do with gaming?
75% of what I do with my keyboard is typing but if time permits I play vidya
Also, how does the 87U compare to the HHKB? That was really the only other rubbreh domeh board I was thinking about purchasing.

[andreya]

which one is better aluminium plate or stainless steel plate ?

I want to hear nothing but my navy thick box switch sound

[jdcarpe]

How does the 45g variant of the Realforce 87U do with gaming?
75% of what I do with my keyboard is typing but if time permits I play vidya
Also, how does the 87U compare to the HHKB? That was really the only other rubbreh domeh board I was thinking about purchasing.

I can't speak from experience, because I'm not a PC gamer. But I've heard that Topre aren't the best choice for gaming. Linear MX switches are usually recommended for gaming.

That said, there isn't that much difference in 45g and 55g dome variants. If you are using one, the other would be fine, I suspect.

which one is better aluminium plate or stainless steel plate ?

I want to hear nothing but my navy thick box switch sound

In my experience, since the steel plate is stiffer, it will not dampen the sound of the swtiches bottoming out at all, while aluminum might dampen it somewhat. But the difference is going to be very, very slight. Other factors, such as case material and resonance properties will affect typing volume more than plate material.

[pr0ximity]

How does the 45g variant of the Realforce 87U do with gaming?
75% of what I do with my keyboard is typing but if time permits I play vidya
Also, how does the 87U compare to the HHKB? That was really the only other rubbreh domeh board I was thinking about purchasing.

They're quite fine for gaming. I personally prefer Topre for RTS/MOBA games with many distinct keypresses and linear MX for FPS where pressing and holding keys in rapid succession is more common.

The Realforce has a still metal plate, the HHKB has plastic-mounted sliders. So the HHKB will be more comfortable to bottom-out a switch on, and has a more resonant, hollow sound ("thock") and is ridiculously light (not in a bad way). Realforce is harder, heavier, you can pound your fist into it in rage. And obviously layout. I can't play an FPS without a lower-left corner Ctrl key.

Both are phenomenal boards, the best retail boards available in my honest opinion.

[pr0ximity]

Describe the feel of Topre switches.

Like a stiff suction cup with a hole in the middle so they don't stay down when you press them to a surface.

Where can I get the alu 1u switch blockers for the KMAC1?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're basically out of luck. You could see if these work https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/collections/keyboard-part/products/5-case-aluminium-blockers other than that, no one really makes aluminum blockers any more. /r/mechmarket if you're incredibly lucky, but KMAC 1 is super old.

which one is better aluminium plate or stainless steel plate ?

I want to hear nothing but my navy thick box switch sound

Steel I suppose, though it's painfully hard. If you really want to hear nothing, your plate doesn't matter, you'd want to silence the up/down stroke like MX Silents, QMX clips, or the trampoline mod.

[andreya]

are there any noticable typing feel differences between pcb/handwired keyboard ?

[Deefenestrate]

Shouldn’t be if the plate thickness is the same.

[tofgerl]

Yeah, PCB boards can be without plates, in which case there will be a different feel. But that's not really due to the handwiring of course.

[Melvang]

Is there a standard key cap combination that with work with stock barrel locations to break up the right shift?  The reason I ask is I want to do blank black keycaps on my Kishy, but right shift is not available in blank black and will not be restocked.  Every other size is available aside from short space bar. And I am assuming it is the large unicomp space bar that would fit.

Edit:  Does anyone know if the blank caps lock key from Unicomp is full height or stepped, and if full height is the stem centered?

[pr0ximity]

Is there a standard key cap combination that with work with stock barrel locations to break up the right shift?  The reason I ask is I want to do blank black keycaps on my Kishy, but right shift is not available in blank black and will not be restocked.  Every other size is available aside from short space bar. And I am assuming it is the large unicomp space bar that would fit.

Edit:  Does anyone know if the blank caps lock key from Unicomp is full height or stepped, and if full height is the stem centered?

I believe Ellipse's repro kishies have a split right shift as an option, might look there. If I recall correctly they use a stepped Caps Lock key and a 1u.

[rymnd6c28]

case : https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=281
plate : https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2552
keyboard : kbparadise v80

The case and the plate both stated are compatible with each other. The plate page also state to work with V80 cases with some modification. The question is are the V80 internals, TEX case, and Phantom Plate be compatible with each other hence making one full keyboard?

[Razor Lotus]

Not sure if this is the correct place to ask, but what are the "popular" and "go to" switches nowadays?

I remember reading that a lot of people on this forum seem to like vintage blacks, ergo clears, and mx reds. But that was last time before cherry clones flooded the market. I've not really been keeping up, but what are some of the popular linear, tactile, and clicky switches currently?

[Blaise170]

Not sure if this is the correct place to ask, but what are the "popular" and "go to" switches nowadays?

I remember reading that a lot of people on this forum seem to like vintage blacks, ergo clears, and mx reds. But that was last time before cherry clones flooded the market. I've not really been keeping up, but what are some of the popular linear, tactile, and clicky switches currently?

That's not really a simple question, but people still love Cherry. Gateron and Zealios for MX-compatible switches. Vintage switches like IBM buckling springs and Alps. There's hundreds, if not thousands of different switches in the market now though so it really just depends.

[_rubik]

Not sure if this is the correct place to ask, but what are the "popular" and "go to" switches nowadays?

I remember reading that a lot of people on this forum seem to like vintage blacks, ergo clears, and mx reds. But that was last time before cherry clones flooded the market. I've not really been keeping up, but what are some of the popular linear, tactile, and clicky switches currently?

That's not really a simple question, but people still love Cherry. Gateron and Zealios for MX-compatible switches. Vintage switches like IBM buckling springs and Alps. There's hundreds, if not thousands of different switches in the market now though so it really just depends.

I have to jump in with Kailh switches. I've heard a few people talking about them, so I guess they count as 'popular'. Specifically, I'm in love with their Copper and Burnt Orange speed switches.

[fohat.digs]

I want to do blank black keycaps on my Kishy, but right shift is not available in blank black and will not be restocked.

You can always dye keys black. You might not get a perfect match, but it might be close and it would take a strong light and a magnifying glass to see the black-under-black legend.

[studiovpc]

Guys I have several questions...

I need to buy a new kb, Rosewill RK-9000v2 Blue switches or Leopold FC900R Blue switches, my quiestion is, do both of them have standard bottom row? Because I have several keycap sets to try, all caps are for standard 104 key ansi layout...
i am asking this because I have 2 kbs which do not have regular bottom row, CM Quickfire Ultimate and Azio MGK1 which has standard bottom row but spacebar has offset stabilizer mounts and it is driving me nuts, all caps fit perfeclty except sapcebar and right shift (shift can stand on its own, but spacebar can't).
So are those two standard bottom row kbs?

Thanks

[TalkingTree]

Hello and welcome,

Either the RK-9000v2 and the FC900R feature standard bottom rows (1.25u modifiers with a 6.25u spacebar).

[studiovpc]

Hello and welcome,

Either the RK-9000v2 and the FC900R feature standard bottom rows (1.25u modifiers with a 6.25u spacebar).

Thanks been lurking here for past months and learned a lot!

All in all, get one whichever is cheaper? What about IKBC Vortex G104, any good?

[TalkingTree]

All in all, get one whichever is cheaper?

That's personal preference. I know little of Rosewill but I would buy the Leopold if it were for myself.

What about IKBC Vortex G104, any good?

iKBC has a good reputation, but I would still buy a Leopold.

[tautologico]

I have a Unicomp Spacesaver keyboard (buckling spring, Model M-like) and I like it a lot, but lately I haven't been using it much because the right shift key gets stuck sometimes and it's super annoying. This probably can be solved by lubing the spring or the keycap.

So: how should I lube this key? Is silicon grease ok?

[mikael.k]

Hello,

I have bought a pre assembled gh60 rev chn based keyboard with a hhkb layout.
I had a pretty bad day after almost bricking it with a half baked firmware (see https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94001.0), but after getting back the reset function.

However, if the original firmware (which I don't have access to) was ok, now, many keys are either absent or mixed.

Examples :
- key on row zero col 15 is absent
- Q outputs W
- W outputs E
- A outputs S
- row 3 is ok except Fn which does not seem to work

I got this using EasyAVR and QMK, basing my layouts on "GH60 satan" sources.

Any idea why this goes wrong and what I have to change ?

Regards,
Mikael

[bitzie]

I'm waiting for my pcb to get here for my first build and I'm trying to get the firmware prepped before it gets here. Here's what I have laid out so far. Does this look correct? Just wondering if there's anything I'm missing here. I'm still trying to figure out what to have that middle space bar set to, but I do want it to be something usable for gaming. I probably won't ever really use the leds, but since this will be my first actual build I figured I would install them as a learning experience.

[user 18]

All in all, get one whichever is cheaper?

That's personal preference. I know little of Rosewill but I would buy the Leopold if it were for myself.

I had a Rosewill several (five-ish?) years ago. At that time, they often had issues with the USB port failing -- that's what happened to mine, I ended up stripping it for parts. Don't know if that's been remedied in more recent batches or not though.

[Rayndalf]

Does this model 1800 have MX compatible keycaps?
I see its winkeyless, but I know keycap compatibility can be pretty spotty, and the lack of a clear image seems almost intentionally deceptive
https://www.ebay.com/p/Cherry-Model-My-1800-Compact-Series-Industrial-Keyboard/671779664

[TalkingTree]

Does this model 1800 have MX compatible keycaps?

Pretty much every non stabilized key will be compatible. I'm unsure about the 2u keys (enter, left shift and backspace).

[Blaise170]

Does this model 1800 have MX compatible keycaps?
I see its winkeyless, but I know keycap compatibility can be pretty spotty, and the lack of a clear image seems almost intentionally deceptive
https://www.ebay.com/p/Cherry-Model-My-1800-Compact-Series-Industrial-Keyboard/671779664

I would say it's not deception but rather laziness. That's the case at least 95% of the time.

[Rayndalf]

Does this model 1800 have MX compatible keycaps?

Pretty much every non stabilized key will be compatible. I'm unsure about the 2u keys (enter, left shift and backspace).

I suspected it would be almost impossible to make out given the vagueness of the photos. I know some MY sets have full MX compatibility (some of the finer dyesub sets come to mind) but the lack of winkeys means less than I'd like, so I really don't know if it'd be worth the risk