no Canada shipping :/
no Canada shipping :/
not yet... I still need to identify proxies, or get some coaching on shipping international. I want to make these available to as many people as i can, i just dont have the experience
Also what you need: case :)
Will these plate support Gon style feet?
The plates will have 3.5mm holes in the back plate, which should fit GONs feet, or the chinese knock-offs found on TAO BAO: http://world.taobao.com/item/43228379649.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.tOoqcY (http://world.taobao.com/item/43228379649.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.tOoqcY)
Which stabilizers would you need for this, pcb or plate?
Do you accept US-based proxy
As I said, let me know if i can assist with anything. Proxy or similar. I might be interested later if ISO is available.
Which stabilizers would you need for this, pcb or plate?
Plate
Do you accept US-based proxy
do you mean a US address that will forward packages international? I am open to all options at this point, price permittingAs I said, let me know if i can assist with anything. Proxy or similar. I might be interested later if ISO is available.
Thanks, LeandreN! I will pm you later todayWhich stabilizers would you need for this, pcb or plate?
Plate
this is correct - the pcb does not support pcb-mounted stabilizers. OP updated
These are skeletal frames. Top plate with standoffs and then a Blank bottom plate similar to the JD40 kits...it kind of eliminates the need for a 'case'
These are skeletal frames. Top plate with standoffs and then a Blank bottom plate similar to the JD40 kits...it kind of eliminates the need for a 'case'
I've never felt comfortable with the sandwich-style keyboards. They are just begging to get dust and spilled coffee right in there and on your PCB :eek: If I'm going through that much trouble to make a custom, I want to protect my investment!
For this buy, I'd love to just get the top plate, then I'd buy one of these:
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=281
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212
These are skeletal frames. Top plate with standoffs and then a Blank bottom plate similar to the JD40 kits...it kind of eliminates the need for a 'case'
I've never felt comfortable with the sandwich-style keyboards. They are just begging to get dust and spilled coffee right in there and on your PCB :eek: If I'm going through that much trouble to make a custom, I want to protect my investment!
For this buy, I'd love to just get the top plate, then I'd buy one of these:
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=281
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212
Not sure the top plate would fit either of those cases as it is designed to be a skeleton with places for the standoffs...
These are skeletal frames. Top plate with standoffs and then a Blank bottom plate similar to the JD40 kits...it kind of eliminates the need for a 'case'
I've never felt comfortable with the sandwich-style keyboards. They are just begging to get dust and spilled coffee right in there and on your PCB :eek: If I'm going through that much trouble to make a custom, I want to protect my investment!
For this buy, I'd love to just get the top plate, then I'd buy one of these:
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=281
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212
Not sure the top plate would fit either of those cases as it is designed to be a skeleton with places for the standoffs...
That is a great point that I didn't consider. Thanks for pointing that out. I will have to take a careful look at the measurements and hole placement... Might gotta mod it to make it fit
Will these fit into those Filco alu cases mk.com will be offering?No, they won't fit inside any case. The plates are intended to be the case. If you want a plate which will fit inside the cases that MechanicalKeyboards.com is selling, they sell a plate on their site which will fit.
A little constructive criticism? I'd unhide the note on plates... in-fact, in your shoes I wouldn't have anything behind a "more" tab, just continue to use excellent formatting as you have throughout the rest of the OP.
And your 7bit layout is missing a key, from between Esc & F1 - any particular reason? If you do shipping to the UK (no pressure) I could always just cut it out myself.
To OP: can you please answer and add to the FAQ? Thanks!
Will the plate fit flush against the bottom half of either of these cases:
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=280
The listed dimensions are:
14.20" x 5.75" x 1.14"
Just trying to get a feeling on the Stab situation here. Are Costar stabs a possibility? And would the winkeyless versions require a 6.25u costar stab (easily sourced in the mention threads) or would you need a true 7u costar stab (never seen)? Thanks all. Super on board with this, just got to clear some things up / sell a few boards.
am I missing something... where does the PCB support LEDs?
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom
is the prof. plate also available?
And whats about a 7BIT layout in ISO?
(or can I just "maximize the holes in that area?)
am I missing something... where does the PCB support LEDs?
Thanks for all the clarifications. IN for a winkeyless ANSI steel set. Did the form disappear btw?
Is the grey Cherry switch option tactile or linear?
A little constructive criticism? I'd unhide the note on plates... in-fact, in your shoes I wouldn't have anything behind a "more" tab, just continue to use excellent formatting as you have throughout the rest of the OP.
And your 7bit layout is missing a key, from between Esc & F1 - any particular reason? If you do shipping to the UK (no pressure) I could always just cut it out myself.
i think you're right - people seem to be missing a lot of the information... I removed the hidden text from OP.
Regarding the 7BIT layout, the switch hole can be added, yes. I dont know much about the layout - have not done a deep dive into the history. i basically just used the profisist's layout found in the wiki. i did find this old thread, though: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=23839.0
i would love to get more feedback from 7BIT users if we need to develop this layout a little further
order for is up! if you have problems making your order, please let me know
sorry it took so long, but i had just a couple more things that popped up last minute
big apology to everyone overseas, it looks like this will not be available for international shipping at this time :(
really bummed about this, i wanted to make this available to everyone. hopefully we can make it happen in the future!
order for is up! if you have problems making your order, please let me know
sorry it took so long, but i had just a couple more things that popped up last minute
big apology to everyone overseas, it looks like this will not be available for international shipping at this time :(
really bummed about this, i wanted to make this available to everyone. hopefully we can make it happen in the future!
Is that the 1.5ANSI winkeyless plate?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1Cf1uCZ.png)
order for is up! if you have problems making your order, please let me know
sorry it took so long, but i had just a couple more things that popped up last minute
big apology to everyone overseas, it looks like this will not be available for international shipping at this time :(
really bummed about this, i wanted to make this available to everyone. hopefully we can make it happen in the future!
Is that the 1.5ANSI winkeyless plate?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1Cf1uCZ.png)
yes
So when it says [2] Kit LED, does that mean we get 2 sets of 5 LEDs? And are these LED just for the caps lock/scroll lock keys?
So when it says [2] Kit LED, does that mean we get 2 sets of 5 LEDs? And are these LED just for the caps lock/scroll lock keys?
good point - my mistake, OP updated. you will receive 5 LEDs with the kit. yes, those are for scroll and caps (+1 extra, just because). you can also buy packs of 100 LEDs separately
So when it says [2] Kit LED, does that mean we get 2 sets of 5 LEDs? And are these LED just for the caps lock/scroll lock keys?
good point - my mistake, OP updated. you will receive 5 LEDs with the kit. yes, those are for scroll and caps (+1 extra, just because). you can also buy packs of 100 LEDs separately
Awesome, thanks for clarifying!
Is there a timeline on GB closing / estimated ship date?
so is an 7BIT Iso layout possible!? Whats about the prices? Do I only need the base kit(no need to get the extra standoffs/are in base kit some included?)
I meant it as follows:
Can I use the 7BIT layout, but with an ISO enter /backspace.
I think its possible due to the last picture
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom
Is there a good step-by-step guide for how to assemble/solder the kit?
Is there a good step-by-step guide for how to assemble/solder the kit?
A little constructive criticism? I'd unhide the note on plates... in-fact, in your shoes I wouldn't have anything behind a "more" tab, just continue to use excellent formatting as you have throughout the rest of the OP.
And your 7bit layout is missing a key, from between Esc & F1 - any particular reason? If you do shipping to the UK (no pressure) I could always just cut it out myself.
i think you're right - people seem to be missing a lot of the information... I removed the hidden text from OP.
Regarding the 7BIT layout, the switch hole can be added, yes. I dont know much about the layout - have not done a deep dive into the history. i basically just used the profisist's layout found in the wiki. i did find this old thread, though: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=23839.0
i would love to get more feedback from 7BIT users if we need to develop this layout a little further
A little constructive criticism? I'd unhide the note on plates... in-fact, in your shoes I wouldn't have anything behind a "more" tab, just continue to use excellent formatting as you have throughout the rest of the OP.
And your 7bit layout is missing a key, from between Esc & F1 - any particular reason? If you do shipping to the UK (no pressure) I could always just cut it out myself.
i think you're right - people seem to be missing a lot of the information... I removed the hidden text from OP.
Regarding the 7BIT layout, the switch hole can be added, yes. I dont know much about the layout - have not done a deep dive into the history. i basically just used the profisist's layout found in the wiki. i did find this old thread, though: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=23839.0
i would love to get more feedback from 7BIT users if we need to develop this layout a little further
I agree with asura; there should be a key between Esc and F1 so people could replicate what's on the DT WikiMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/yc12oJp.png)
A little constructive criticism? I'd unhide the note on plates... in-fact, in your shoes I wouldn't have anything behind a "more" tab, just continue to use excellent formatting as you have throughout the rest of the OP.
And your 7bit layout is missing a key, from between Esc & F1 - any particular reason? If you do shipping to the UK (no pressure) I could always just cut it out myself.
i think you're right - people seem to be missing a lot of the information... I removed the hidden text from OP.
Regarding the 7BIT layout, the switch hole can be added, yes. I dont know much about the layout - have not done a deep dive into the history. i basically just used the profisist's layout found in the wiki. i did find this old thread, though: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=23839.0
i would love to get more feedback from 7BIT users if we need to develop this layout a little further
I agree with asura; there should be a key between Esc and F1 so people could replicate what's on the DT WikiMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/yc12oJp.png)
yes, i concur. no reason not to add the switch hole in the plate there - the pcb supports it. i will add it to the CAD file for the fab shop
Okay, so 7Bit will feature all switches on the top row?
I know the case thing has been addressed, but I was curious if a middle layer would work? I haven't done any custom keyboards myself, but I've seen a lot of kits that have three layers: top plate, bottom plate, and a middle layer (usually acrylic) that's simply an outline. Do you think it'd be possible? That is, if someone were interested, my guess is that they'd have to have a middle layer custom cut?
yes, full top row
Okay, so 7Bit will feature all switches on the top row?
How easy is this going to be to reprogram? I am considering getting the 7bit kit but it really depends on how simple that is.
Been looking for a decent TKL, really digging the case! An acrylic mid-piece would be sick! Just have a couple of questions as I'm a bit of newb when it comes to building!
1. I'm guessing the Teensy and diodes will need to be soldered?
2. Do the ANSI plates support split right shift?
Going to be putting in an order by the end of the weekend!
Edit: annnnd my order's in :thumb:
I'd be interested in the tkl combo, anything new about the international shipping? They're quite some Europeans here wanting some tkl love...me included. We need this, man ;)
How much would shipping for Europe cost?
I think some people would be willing to pay a bit for shipping, since the GB cost is pretty decent
How much would shipping for Europe cost?
I think some people would be willing to pay a bit for shipping, since the GB cost is pretty decent
i dont know how to estimate that, short of putting each address into USPS/UPS/FedEx shipping estimator. Even then, I still don't know how to calculate import or duty fees. It's probably different for each region. I'm sorry, but I just dont see it happening for this small group buy - especially since we dont have a proxy.
I really only wanted to know the shipping, since customs vary from country to country. I haven't paid any yet (been lucky I guess), but I only ordered keysets and small stuff from america/china, never a full kit or keyboard.
It's a pity this kind of stuff is always so US focused. I would really like to see more WKL plates and more TKL options at a cheaper price in Europe.
There was an EU buy on Phantom plates just a few months ago, or rather it was a few months ago that I noticed it having been over for a few months, over on DT. A couple of years before that there was a plate buy on GH, again I missed it by a few months... It's just a timing issue :rolleyes:
PM me if you're interested in a Phantom PCB with the Teensy and diodes already soldered on! Fully tested and functional.
It'll save you ~2+ hours of work! :thumb:
Why a proxy anyway? Isn't just sending them out overseas individually an option at all? Sure, people have to pay customs fees but that's what they do even with Massdrop, mechanicalkeyboards.com orders etc.Shipping cost for one kit to an international destination from the US will probably run 30-50 USD, depending if you choose first class or priority. Most people aren't willing to pay that.
Why a proxy anyway? Isn't just sending them out overseas individually an option at all? Sure, people have to pay customs fees but that's what they do even with Massdrop, mechanicalkeyboards.com orders etc.Shipping cost for one kit to an international destination from the US will probably run 30-50 USD, depending if you choose first class or priority. Most people aren't willing to pay that.
Why a proxy anyway? Isn't just sending them out overseas individually an option at all? Sure, people have to pay customs fees but that's what they do even with Massdrop, mechanicalkeyboards.com orders etc.Shipping cost for one kit to an international destination from the US will probably run 30-50 USD, depending if you choose first class or priority. Most people aren't willing to pay that.
Well, as a European, I'm used to those costs when importing stuff overseas with that size/weight, so, I don't think that would be an issue for not shipping to Europe. Europeans would just have to bite the bullet if they wanted the kit.
If all sellers had that kind of thought, we would never be able to get anything out of GBs/american vendors
Why a proxy anyway? Isn't just sending them out overseas individually an option at all? Sure, people have to pay customs fees but that's what they do even with Massdrop, mechanicalkeyboards.com orders etc.Shipping cost for one kit to an international destination from the US will probably run 30-50 USD, depending if you choose first class or priority. Most people aren't willing to pay that.
Well, as a European, I'm used to those costs when importing stuff overseas with that size/weight, so, I don't think that would be an issue for not shipping to Europe. Europeans would just have to bite the bullet if they wanted the kit.
If all sellers had that kind of thought, we would never be able to get anything out of GBs/american vendors
i am willing to ship international to individual buyers, as long as those people are aware of the shipping costs. However, i do not have experience shipping overseas, and i would need a reliable "coach" for doing this. I do not want to get into a situation where i have under-quoted shipping expenses and have to eat the extra cost or as for more money after the fact. So far, no one has come forward willing to help me with this
am i missing something, or is that so-called ansi 1.25 winkey plate actually an ansi 1.5 winkey plate? if so, i'm glad i looked closer and i'll probably actually buy this.
Are the most recent renders the ones after the 3/17 updatr, at the bottom of the OP? If so, the one you have labeled as "ANSI Winkey" does indeed have a 1.50 bottom row. The one labeled "ISO Winkey" has a 1.25 bottom row.am i missing something, or is that so-called ansi 1.25 winkey plate actually an ansi 1.5 winkey plate? if so, i'm glad i looked closer and i'll probably actually buy this.
are you looking at the most recent renders?
Are the most recent renders the ones after the 3/17 updatr, at the bottom of the OP? If so, the one you have labeled as "ANSI Winkey" does indeed have a 1.50 bottom row. The one labeled "ISO Winkey" has a 1.25 bottom row.
So, just to confirm, there's no 1.5 ansi winkey? I'd kinda like to have that 4th key to the right of the spacebar. :(
I just submitted an order for a 7BIT kit. ;D
Can you tell me what the size keys for the bottom row are so I can be sure to get proper keycaps?
Quick question - I submitted an order. Never done a GB before, do I pay when you close the GB?
Additionally, I added the switches for my kits - will you automatically calculate that as 2 sets of switches? (I am contemplating jumping on some zealios though...not sure if it's worth twice the cost, though.)
Edit: Bought some 67g zealios...so my order should only include one set of clears. :)
Pretty interesting kit design.
Question, I still have some of the Round2 Phantom black PCB's from a few years ago GB. Have there been any changes to the PCB design aside from color since?
Also is there any chance of a matching "Skeleton Keypad" GB in the future?
Massdrop just started a drop for aluminum cone feet https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet
Massdrop just started a drop for aluminum cone feet https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet
the backplate has two 3mm holes for feet. can anyone confirm that the massdrop feet have a 3m screw? that's what GON uses, anyway
Massdrop just started a drop for aluminum cone feet https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet
the backplate has two 3mm holes for feet. can anyone confirm that the massdrop feet have a 3m screw? that's what GON uses, anyway
Massdrop just started a drop for aluminum cone feet https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet
the backplate has two 3mm holes for feet. can anyone confirm that the massdrop feet have a 3m screw? that's what GON uses, anyway
I noticed a comment that mentioned 5mm screws.
Massdrop just started a drop for aluminum cone feet https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet
the backplate has two 3mm holes for feet. can anyone confirm that the massdrop feet have a 3m screw? that's what GON uses, anyway
I noticed a comment that mentioned 5mm screws.
got a link?
Q: Is it possible to get Teensies oversea?
Much obliged sir.Q: Is it possible to get Teensies oversea?
FalbaTech (http://falbatech.pl/prestashop/index.php?id_product=11&controller=product&id_lang=2) sells them for 20,00€ from Poland.
Is it too late to modify my order? I wanted to add a few things.
Not sure what was meant by "Here's a guess", as it doesn't really fit the context of the discussion. Maybe he was trying to match feet, they look the same. I'm sure Yanbo will be along to clarify soon enough. I may be wrong. I'll watch this and fix it if it is wrong and no one beats me to it.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet/talk/390154
Not sure what was meant by "Here's a guess", as it doesn't really fit the context of the discussion. Maybe he was trying to match feet, they look the same. I'm sure Yanbo will be along to clarify soon enough. I may be wrong. I'll watch this and fix it if it is wrong and no one beats me to it.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet/talk/390154
Even if it is 5mm a drill press can easily enlarge the hole.
Not sure what was meant by "Here's a guess", as it doesn't really fit the context of the discussion. Maybe he was trying to match feet, they look the same. I'm sure Yanbo will be along to clarify soon enough. I may be wrong. I'll watch this and fix it if it is wrong and no one beats me to it.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet/talk/390154
Even if it is 5mm a drill press can easily enlarge the hole.
or, if we know/decide on a size i can get the change in before prototyping
or, if we know/decide on a size i can get the change in before prototyping
or, if we know/decide on a size i can get the change in before prototyping
Now that Yanbo has confirmed the screw sizes, any decisions being made?
or, if we know/decide on a size i can get the change in before prototyping
Now that Yanbo has confirmed the screw sizes, any decisions being made?
do we want holes for a 3m screw, or a 4m screw? right now, the holes are 3.5mm dia. which at some point i determined would be best for a 3m screw.
or, if we know/decide on a size i can get the change in before prototyping
Now that Yanbo has confirmed the screw sizes, any decisions being made?
do we want holes for a 3m screw, or a 4m screw? right now, the holes are 3.5mm dia. which at some point i determined would be best for a 3m screw.
i am inclined to keep the holes for feet as-is (3.5mm) and people can bore or file them out as needed. any objections?
i am inclined to keep the holes for feet as-is (3.5mm) and people can bore or file them out as needed. any objections?
Fine with me. I was just wanting to know before that drop ends.
Sent you a PM regarding change of switch. Hope it isn't too late.
just a heads up, i ordered a "prototype" from the fab shop so i can confirm tolerances and buildability. they gave me 1-1.5 week lead time. when i have it, i will do a little build log and post in a reserved slot on page 1
That kind of sucks. The MD Gateron GB couldn't have been timed better, though.
If there's an MOQ for the other types switches, I'd be interested in getting a set to help out with that. Otherwise, omitting the switches altogether will be OK.
That kind of sucks. The MD Gateron GB couldn't have been timed better, though.
If there's an MOQ for the other types switches, I'd be interested in getting a set to help out with that. Otherwise, omitting the switches altogether will be OK.
late breaking news - MechanicalKeyboards.com as stepped in and offered to supply the gaterons (also) at similar pricing. I sent emails to everyone who ordered gateron switches. please reply back or pm me and let me know what you would like to do.
Invoicing will begin this week, and I will start ordering parts as soon as the funds come in
That kind of sucks. The MD Gateron GB couldn't have been timed better, though.
If there's an MOQ for the other types switches, I'd be interested in getting a set to help out with that. Otherwise, omitting the switches altogether will be OK.
late breaking news - MechanicalKeyboards.com as stepped in and offered to supply the gaterons (also) at similar pricing. I sent emails to everyone who ordered gateron switches. please reply back or pm me and let me know what you would like to do.
Invoicing will begin this week, and I will start ordering parts as soon as the funds come in
I didn't get an email...
That kind of sucks. The MD Gateron GB couldn't have been timed better, though.
If there's an MOQ for the other types switches, I'd be interested in getting a set to help out with that. Otherwise, omitting the switches altogether will be OK.
late breaking news - MechanicalKeyboards.com as stepped in and offered to supply the gaterons (also) at similar pricing. I sent emails to everyone who ordered gateron switches. please reply back or pm me and let me know what you would like to do.
Invoicing will begin this week, and I will start ordering parts as soon as the funds come in
I didn't get an email...
yes, i have not sent invoices out yet. i have been in contact with paypal to make sure we wont have any issues like i have heard about other group buy leaders' accounts being frozen. honestly, i am sketched out. i dont want to get into a situation where i have to refund a bunch of payments and further delay ordering any parts. if people back out, this could fall apart. also, i want to make sure the fab shop can deliver on the quality of plates we want. i'm just trying to not rush into this.
i can start invoicing this week and start ordering parts as long as there is no problem with paypal. what are your guys' thoughts?
yes, i have not sent invoices out yet. i have been in contact with paypal to make sure we wont have any issues like i have heard about other group buy leaders' accounts being frozen. honestly, i am sketched out. i dont want to get into a situation where i have to refund a bunch of payments and further delay ordering any parts. if people back out, this could fall apart. also, i want to make sure the fab shop can deliver on the quality of plates we want. i'm just trying to not rush into this.
i can start invoicing this week and start ordering parts as long as there is no problem with paypal. what are your guys' thoughts?
yes, i have not sent invoices out yet. i have been in contact with paypal to make sure we wont have any issues like i have heard about other group buy leaders' accounts being frozen. honestly, i am sketched out. i dont want to get into a situation where i have to refund a bunch of payments and further delay ordering any parts. if people back out, this could fall apart. also, i want to make sure the fab shop can deliver on the quality of plates we want. i'm just trying to not rush into this.
i can start invoicing this week and start ordering parts as long as there is no problem with paypal. what are your guys' thoughts?
Sorry, I meant I didn't get one about the gateron switches. I'm cool going with MechanicalKeyboards.com for mine, was just confused because I didn't get an email about that.
Here's a quick question: how do people handle the cable on these skeleton keyboards? I don't want to just plug directly into the teensy - if it gets pulled out, I need to get a new surface mount micro USB plug. I'm thinking of maybe buying something like this, and then mounting it to the bottom plate:MoreShow Image(https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/970x728/1764-00.jpg)
And then just running a short cable between the teensy and the board (just take a micro USB cable and chop off the end of it, I'm thinking.)
Here's a quick question: how do people handle the cable on these skeleton keyboards? I don't want to just plug directly into the teensy - if it gets pulled out, I need to get a new surface mount micro USB plug. I'm thinking of maybe buying something like this, and then mounting it to the bottom plate:MoreShow Image(https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/970x728/1764-00.jpg)
And then just running a short cable between the teensy and the board (just take a micro USB cable and chop off the end of it, I'm thinking.)
Well, a person could just build a tension bridge out of wire to hold the cable in place like this:Show Image(http://www.automationdirect.com/images/overviews/bryant_cord_grips_300.jpg)
I got a "Money Request" Instead of an Invoice. Same thing?
I got a "Money Request" Instead of an Invoice. Same thing?
yes, it should say "for goods or services" on it
I got a "Money Request" Instead of an Invoice. Same thing?
yes, it should say "for goods or services" on it
Doesn't really say anything. Has a note "Phantom GB".
Would appreciate a normal Paypal Invoice. You can just copy and paste the description from the spreadsheet info.
I got a "Money Request" Instead of an Invoice. Same thing?
yes, it should say "for goods or services" on it
Doesn't really say anything. Has a note "Phantom GB".
Would appreciate a normal Paypal Invoice. You can just copy and paste the description from the spreadsheet info.
ok, i tried to resend. let me know if that works
I got a "Money Request" Instead of an Invoice. Same thing?
yes, it should say "for goods or services" on it
Doesn't really say anything. Has a note "Phantom GB".
Would appreciate a normal Paypal Invoice. You can just copy and paste the description from the spreadsheet info.
ok, i tried to resend. let me know if that works
Just got my invoice, (not money request) but it has no details - could I get the same thing, just copy/paste my order from the spreadsheet?
Sorry if it causes trouble.
prototype plates came today. as expected, they came in the mail in a folded up envelope, bound in masking tape. lolShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/YzlVYu7.jpg)
the plates also have a vinyl layer stuck to them with the markings "Laser Guard" i assume the 2B finish stock they buy comes with this already stuck on. as you can see, the laser makes quite a mess of it in the process.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sUYwUoY.jpg)
the plates have a rough finish on the back, and a shiny #2B finish on the front side. here is the dull side:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uvlMPPs.jpg)
here is the finished side:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mt1u890.jpg)
The plates needed some cleaning after removing the adhesive, as some of the glue melted around the edges of the cuts. I rubbed them both down with rubbing alcohol on a rag - not paper towels. seemed to clean up fine, just took a few minutes of effort.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rRjgjvg.jpg)
imho, these plates are higher quality than we got from the previous group buy on deskthority. i will be working on a build log this week, hoping to have it finished and posted by this weekend.
Those plates look good. The Phantom is a really fun build. Have you considered what you might use for feet/bumpers on the bottom plate? Also, if you do another run you should consider adding a hole for the reset switch on the Teensy. Looking forward to seeing the build logs. :thumb:
PM me what you need. i will try and be accommodating.
I have sent out all invoices, and about half have already paid. Thanks everyone! payment is due for the remaining invoices by April 24, this Sunday. I will wait to order parts until all payments have come in.
still waiting for payments on the 8 remaining invoices. i will send out reminders shortly. Sunday is the due date for payment. Hopefully we don't have any more drop-outs, as that could affect the pricing of the parts.
I will begin ordering parts on Monday. thanks again, everyone!
Those plates look good. The Phantom is a really fun build. Have you considered what you might use for feet/bumpers on the bottom plate? Also, if you do another run you should consider adding a hole for the reset switch on the Teensy. Looking forward to seeing the build logs. :thumb:
thanks everyone who has followed up. still waiting on a few remaining invoices.
in my original estimate with the fab shop, i sent them an initial order for 50 sets of plates, and i was planning on buying 4 or 5 of those as extra. as of right now, we are about half that. i talked to them this week and told them our order would not be as large. they did not mention a MOQ, but they said they do have a minimum fee for small projects - we are still a large enough order t have this covered. they mentioned that they may have to adjust pricing slightly due to some issues that came up during manufacturing, but assured me that these increases would not be more than a couple dollars per set.
i have also been working on the prototype build, and i will post a build log in the coming week.
all invoices have been reconciled. i will begin ordering parts tomorrow. build log will be up soon also!
all invoices have been reconciled. i will begin ordering parts tomorrow. build log will be up soon also!
My friend is still thinking things over - are the cancelled order slots still open until Friday? :)
Don't worry, we've already been talking.
just placed the order with mechanicalkeyboards.com for the pcbs, switches, and switch tools. i will order the plates, hardware, teensys and electrical components over the next couple days
i will post the build log tomorrow - its nearly complete, except for the 7u stabilizer wire. i encourage you all to check that out, as i am going to ask for feedback on standoff length. i had to order longer standoffs in order to complete the build as i had designed, but that is not necessary for everyone. more details to come...
Well, if I can get hooked up with one I want to try to do something cool with it - RGB modded Phantom via QMK.
Well, if I can get hooked up with one I want to try to do something cool with it - RGB modded Phantom via QMK.
All pins on the Teensy are in use. You would have to give up Caps lock or Scroll lock LED to get at an io pin.
All pins on the Teensy are in use. You would have to give up Caps lock or Scroll lock LED to get at an io pin.
Well, if I can get hooked up with one I want to try to do something cool with it - RGB modded Phantom via QMK.
UPDATE
build log finally posted. forgive any errors, it is midnight... i'm sorry it took me longer than i promised to post this. if you see anything i missed, have questions, or anything else please comment or let me know
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=80118.msg2077558#msg2077558 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=80118.msg2077558#msg2077558)
please post your comments on preference for the standoffs. i dont want to send anyone parts they dont like or wont use!
Also, all parts are ordered except plates. i will get the invoice and pay for those tomorrow!
I like thin....
I like thin....
Another option that occurs to me: what if we use shorter standoffs on the front than the back? The front then will be nice and low as it is limited by either the teensy or any USB ports. It's also a way to add a little bit of a angle to the keyboard as well. I'd want to file the standoffs to add an angle though (otherwise you'll bend the plate when you tighten the bolts) and might need to run a tap through to clean the threads up afterwards.
I would prefer not using the angle adaptor and using the shortest possible standoffs
I would prefer not using the angle adaptor and using the shortest possible standoffs
i will break out the calipers tonight and measure what the minimum height of standoff will be.
do we need a poll? i dont see a lot of activity on the thread... idk if many people are even following this anymore
ok, thanks for the feedback everyone. i am mostly hearing thin is the preference.
the distance between the bottom of the plate and the top of the USB plug (which is what protrudes the furthest from the pcb) is 9/16" if you opted to not use the standoffs for the teensy in your build, that would eliminate another 1/8", making the distance 7/16". i would recommend a minimum of 1/16" between any electrical components and the backplate (unless you were to insulate it somehow) making the absolute smallest standoff 1/2"
to recap: if you build the board like my build log, you should use 5/8" standoffs. if you opt to not use the standoffs on your teensy, you should use 1/2" standoffs. these are the lengths we should decide on.
i will offer longer standoffs for people who request them specifically. let me know by saturday - that is when i will order the hardware. as always, pm me or post your questions
How much space between the bottom of the phantom PCB and bottom plate is there when using the 1/2" standoffs? If there's enough room for me to mount the sparkfun USB board (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9966), I'm happy with 1/2".
How much space between the bottom of the phantom PCB and bottom plate is there when using the 1/2" standoffs? If there's enough room for me to mount the sparkfun USB board (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9966), I'm happy with 1/2".
How are you planning on mounting this?
How much space between the bottom of the phantom PCB and bottom plate is there when using the 1/2" standoffs? If there's enough room for me to mount the sparkfun USB board (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9966), I'm happy with 1/2".
How are you planning on mounting this?
I think he was going to drill the plate and bolt it on
How much space between the bottom of the phantom PCB and bottom plate is there when using the 1/2" standoffs? If there's enough room for me to mount the sparkfun USB board (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9966), I'm happy with 1/2".
How are you planning on mounting this?
I think he was going to drill the plate and bolt it on
Yeah -that was the idea. 4 holes, something to insulate the board from the case and probably a couple washers.
Roostr - I thought you were going to order 1/2" standoffs unless people wanted 5/8"? I like the idea of the slant, but on second glance, I see it's missing two standoffs on the edges. Does this affect the plate's rigidity at all?
So those LEDs are just to provide light below the KB?
Roostr - I thought you were going to order 1/2" standoffs unless people wanted 5/8"? I like the idea of the slant, but on second glance, I see it's missing two standoffs on the edges. Does this affect the plate's rigidity at all?
I would also like the 1/2" standoffs please
Hey Roostr - any update on the plates? :)
Hey Roostr - any update on the plates? :)
yes! i was going to post an update this evening, but i have time now. i am back from vacation, it was a blast. got an email from the shop and the plates are done and ready for pickup. I will not be able to pick them up until next wednesday, though. It is a 4hr+ round trip for me, and that is the only time that the shop will be open and i will have time to go.
I will try to have as many orders as i can packed up and ready to ship by then, so all I will have to do is slip the plates in and send them off. My intention is to have everything shipped by 6/4. Of course, I will post pictures of the progress along the way
got a pic of that usb port?
I'm glad your build is going well! I've built my own Phantom-based TKLs with some trials and tribulations. Made my own wood frame for it with an external USB port too. Let me know if you have any questions or ideas for it. :)
I'm glad your build is going well! I've built my own Phantom-based TKLs with some trials and tribulations. Made my own wood frame for it with an external USB port too. Let me know if you have any questions or ideas for it. :)
I'd love info on the wood. I've been thinking about doing something similar, but I wasn't sure how much space there was with the plates.
Terry - what case is that?
Terry - what case is that?
USB port as promised. I cut out a snug space to fit a mini-B breakout board, cut down a USB cable and soldered the wires to the breakout board and plugged the other end into the Teensy. (Also, put a piece of electrical tape on the bottom of the breakout to avoid short against the metal base plate.
USB port as promised. I cut out a snug space to fit a mini-B breakout board, cut down a USB cable and soldered the wires to the breakout board and plugged the other end into the Teensy. (Also, put a piece of electrical tape on the bottom of the breakout to avoid short against the metal base plate.
ah. breakout mounted to the bottom plate. i would guess that your wooden layer is at least 5/8"?
USB port as promised. I cut out a snug space to fit a mini-B breakout board, cut down a USB cable and soldered the wires to the breakout board and plugged the other end into the Teensy. (Also, put a piece of electrical tape on the bottom of the breakout to avoid short against the metal base plate.
ah. breakout mounted to the bottom plate. i would guess that your wooden layer is at least 5/8"?
It's actually screwed up into the wood. The wood is 1/2" in height
USB port as promised. I cut out a snug space to fit a mini-B breakout board, cut down a USB cable and soldered the wires to the breakout board and plugged the other end into the Teensy. (Also, put a piece of electrical tape on the bottom of the breakout to avoid short against the metal base plate.
ah. breakout mounted to the bottom plate. i would guess that your wooden layer is at least 5/8"?
It's actually screwed up into the wood. The wood is 1/2" in height
hm, i see. did you use standoffs on your teensy? or just soldered direct to the phantom?
I have seen someone post that they didn't even use wires to solder the teensy - they just made solder bridges (but then needed a USB connector with no plastic covering on it due to clearance issues.)
I really am thinking about trying to get the board down to a thickness that I can buy my own 1/2" standoffs. I think I can do it - my plan has been to either butcher cheap USB cables and use a breakout board, or to just buy the USB plugs and make my own connector to the breakout board.
Really wish the teensy just had pads I could easily access for USB (without desoldering the existing USB connector.)
All pins on the Teensy are in use. You would have to give up Caps lock or Scroll lock LED to get at an io pin.
PE2 on the ATmega32u4 is available. It's connected to ground via a 1k resistor but it's not a pin that has to be grounded.
Hey Roostr - what bolts & standoffs are you using? I'm going to order my own 1/2" standoffs I think. The photo with the wood makes it pretty clear to me I can pull off 1/2 with a breakout board :)
Thanks!
All pins on the Teensy are in use. You would have to give up Caps lock or Scroll lock LED to get at an io pin.
PE2 on the ATmega32u4 is available. It's connected to ground via a 1k resistor but it's not a pin that has to be grounded.
Wanted to put an update on this specifically: PE2 does work, and you don't have to remove the resistor just solder to the chip side.
Somehow in the midst of doing this the status LEDs stopped working. I either damaged a trace when I desoldered to move to the new plate and case, or somehow the RGB mod messed with the ground on the status LEDs. Running a jumper wire from the LEDs to a different ground point alleviated the issue and didn't impact RGB operations.
I'll take some more pics tomorrow, the board is up to 20 RGB LEDs. I'm done with it at this point. It's a mess of jumper wires underneath.
i thought your ground looked fishy. do you have a wiring diagram for the setup? i saw you had this listed on r/mechmarket already. did it sell?
you can use any standoff you wish, as long as you can fit a bolt through the 3mm hole. the ones supplied in the kit are coming from McMaster Carr, same as the bolts.
- ALSO, UPDATE -
we have plates. I will be working on packing and shipping these out through next weekShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/y0v0QDa.jpg)
just a quick update, have all the parts now just sorting and packing everything. the LEDs i ordered were cheap, and so was QC. some of the colors came jumbled up, so I am testing every LED before I add them to the kits. for those of you who ordered packs of LEDs (100's) i cannot test them all, so if you end up having different colors in your packs just let me know and I will send replacements along.
To mitigate this, I will throw a few extra in every pack of 100 just to be sure. idk if this will be a big problem or not, but the few i have tested are roughly 1 in 10 are the wrong color... :/ thanks obama
shipping the first orders this week!
yes, i will update all the paypal invoices with tracking.
sorry for the delays, i was unable to ship any this week due to work and family stuff. I will put as much time as i can into it this weekend. all the parts are basically sorted and ready for packing. it's been really tedious counting out all these little screws, but i basically just need to put the orders together, pack them up, and take them to the post office. i will try to get as many as i can out next week
I was planning on using the Easy AVR firmware from metalliqaz. Is there a reason to use TMK or QMK instead?
Anyone have a link to a nice source for the WS2812 strips?
Sent from my iPhone
I get mine from eBay. You want 30/M without waterproof coating WS2812B. Comes in white and black PCB color .
Any new info on the shipments? :)
Any new info on the shipments? :)
hey guys, i was away with the fam for fathers day weekend so didnt get much more done. came home today to work more on it and discovered that i have mis-packed a couple orders (doh) so i have to unpack and resort those. sorry for the delays - i am still trying to get an effective method down. i would like to just dedicate a whole day and bust these all out, but my schedule has not really permitted it. i was hoping to have everything shipped by now, and i am sorry i have not met the timeline i had in place. i will work hard to get everything packed and sent out by this weekend.
thanks everyone for your patience. i will try to keep the order list updated as i go
Finally got around to finishing mine this past weekend. Super pleased with all of it. Well done, roostr. You da man! :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
hi everyone - quick update!
i have a few more orders packed up, ready to go out today or tomorrow. maybe i can add a couple more if i find the time. It's my goal to have all the shipping wrapped up by the end of the month
thanks for everyone's patience, and I am very happy to see the results that some of you have already posted! awesome
Edit: missing 11 screws per board too.
Has anyone else had plates with bad cuts? To be specific - about half of the holes actually line up with the top plate, the other half are low, as if the plate moved during the cut. One hole isn't even cut the whole way through:
Honestly, the worst part will probably be making sure I'm doing the cherry stabilizers right. Is lubing the stabs a must? Is clipping them advised?
Honestly, the worst part will probably be making sure I'm doing the cherry stabilizers right. Is lubing the stabs a must? Is clipping them advised?
I would say lubing them with a thick lube (like Krytox 205) and clipping them is a definite must, if you don't like mushy feeling stabilizers.
I had some cosmetic issues as well. Thanks for all the info/help roostr but if you're going to be doing re-cuts then I would like one also. Screw holes aren't a big deal because they'll be covered with hardware, but the indicator lights are gonna bug the **** outta me. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to that kinda stuff. I know you didn't personally cause these defects and I hope this doesn't put much strain on you, but I can't help that it bugs me. I don't know much about laser cutting, and I've tried to research it but haven't been able to come up with much about the staining/scratching/residuals that I have present.
From what I understand slag or dross is an effect on the edge where heat builds up along the cut (or the HAZ - heat affected zone) and creates a build-up of molten steel right at the edge, which is then chipped, sanded, or buffed away. The issues I have don't seem to be that... and in my research this is more of an issue with plasma cutting. All the examples of laser cutting that I saw were flawless on the front side with some residual affect on the back.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q56wOIV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/othm5u0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/34XfyWK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XYIjJZ3.jpg)
That being said I do want to make the solution as easy as possible... What about a re-grain? Was that too expensive or were you just set on a coated steel? I wonder if it's possible to do a DIY regrain using a DA Sander or bench-top grinder/buffing wheel and some sandpaper... Thoughts? I'm not hung up on the coating, I have a pretty sick garage setup and could hit it with a 2-part clear afterwards. Damn those indicator lights!!
I had some cosmetic issues as well. Thanks for all the info/help roostr but if you're going to be doing re-cuts then I would like one also. Screw holes aren't a big deal because they'll be covered with hardware, but the indicator lights are gonna bug the **** outta me. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to that kinda stuff. I know you didn't personally cause these defects and I hope this doesn't put much strain on you, but I can't help that it bugs me. I don't know much about laser cutting, and I've tried to research it but haven't been able to come up with much about the staining/scratching/residuals that I have present.
From what I understand slag or dross is an effect on the edge where heat builds up along the cut (or the HAZ - heat affected zone) and creates a build-up of molten steel right at the edge, which is then chipped, sanded, or buffed away. The issues I have don't seem to be that... and in my research this is more of an issue with plasma cutting. All the examples of laser cutting that I saw were flawless on the front side with some residual affect on the back.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q56wOIV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/othm5u0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/34XfyWK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XYIjJZ3.jpg)
That being said I do want to make the solution as easy as possible... What about a re-grain? Was that too expensive or were you just set on a coated steel? I wonder if it's possible to do a DIY regrain using a DA Sander or bench-top grinder/buffing wheel and some sandpaper... Thoughts? I'm not hung up on the coating, I have a pretty sick garage setup and could hit it with a 2-part clear afterwards. Damn those indicator lights!!More
The stuff you're seeing is something you'll also see when torch cutting; the solution is to blast oxygen or an inert gas at high pressure while cutting to prevent it from settling on the thing you're cutting. A diamond stone on a dremel would probably remove most of this.
Being one of the few people with multiple plates in their possession, I'm ALSO seeing a pretty high variance in the switch cut locations from plate to plate; not enough to prevent me from lining switches up with the PCB (I THINK...I only have one finished keyboard. Time will tell...) I was able to make the bad plate work for the mounting holes using a very good floor standing drill press and high speed steel bits...
Plate quality is a bit of a let down for me.
With regards to thickness, I've cut the standoffs/spacers off all of my teensy boards (not easy!) and as a result I'm able to get the teensy boards super close to the Phantom PCB; since I'm putting in USB breakout boards (from Sparkfun) I'm making my own interconnect cables to go from the teensy to the breakout board. In the end, 1/2" standoffs are easily enough clearance. In the front, I can even go shorter.
On an aside...turns out I think MX Clear switches are terrible. Ordered replacement springs from MK along with some Teflon lube.
I had some cosmetic issues as well. Thanks for all the info/help roostr but if you're going to be doing re-cuts then I would like one also. Screw holes aren't a big deal because they'll be covered with hardware, but the indicator lights are gonna bug the **** outta me. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to that kinda stuff. I know you didn't personally cause these defects and I hope this doesn't put much strain on you, but I can't help that it bugs me. I don't know much about laser cutting, and I've tried to research it but haven't been able to come up with much about the staining/scratching/residuals that I have present.
From what I understand slag or dross is an effect on the edge where heat builds up along the cut (or the HAZ - heat affected zone) and creates a build-up of molten steel right at the edge, which is then chipped, sanded, or buffed away. The issues I have don't seem to be that... and in my research this is more of an issue with plasma cutting. All the examples of laser cutting that I saw were flawless on the front side with some residual affect on the back.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q56wOIV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/othm5u0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/34XfyWK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XYIjJZ3.jpg)
That being said I do want to make the solution as easy as possible... What about a re-grain? Was that too expensive or were you just set on a coated steel? I wonder if it's possible to do a DIY regrain using a DA Sander or bench-top grinder/buffing wheel and some sandpaper... Thoughts? I'm not hung up on the coating, I have a pretty sick garage setup and could hit it with a 2-part clear afterwards. Damn those indicator lights!!More
The stuff you're seeing is something you'll also see when torch cutting; the solution is to blast oxygen or an inert gas at high pressure while cutting to prevent it from settling on the thing you're cutting. A diamond stone on a dremel would probably remove most of this.
Being one of the few people with multiple plates in their possession, I'm ALSO seeing a pretty high variance in the switch cut locations from plate to plate; not enough to prevent me from lining switches up with the PCB (I THINK...I only have one finished keyboard. Time will tell...) I was able to make the bad plate work for the mounting holes using a very good floor standing drill press and high speed steel bits...
Plate quality is a bit of a let down for me.
With regards to thickness, I've cut the standoffs/spacers off all of my teensy boards (not easy!) and as a result I'm able to get the teensy boards super close to the Phantom PCB; since I'm putting in USB breakout boards (from Sparkfun) I'm making my own interconnect cables to go from the teensy to the breakout board. In the end, 1/2" standoffs are easily enough clearance. In the front, I can even go shorter.
On an aside...turns out I think MX Clear switches are terrible. Ordered replacement springs from MK along with some Teflon lube.
yeah, guys i am seeing these slag marks are more common than i thought. i feel like i should apologize - i feel like i should have done better QC when i picked these up. I was not expecting to see these manufacturing defects. it seems like a simple process for the fab shop - I gave them the CAD files, they just have to enter them into the router and monitor the process. i dont think they spent enough time with our batch, and should have rejected some of these plates themselves.
I have already contacted the shop and expressed my disappointment in just the few people who have come forward so far. I ordered a couple extra sets for myself, so I will be keeping the worst that I find. I have been packing up a few of the last orders today. hoping to make the post office, but if not they will go out monday. thanks everyone for being patient with me. once everyone has their kits and has a chance to check them over, I will put in the order for remakes for plates with damage/defects.
I also owe some people some more screws. very sorry about that, please send me a PM with how many you need and I will get them out ASAP. Any other issues, let me know and we will try and straighten it out.
Finished my build. I ended up painting the plates white as I had already started to accidentally leave visible scratches on the metal and I liked the contrast of white with the keycaps. My first time really soldering anything. Definitely not the cleanest job but everything works and I'm pretty happy with it.
Album: http://imgur.com/a/ets8s
Did you get a chance to send out the missing screws yet?
Don't know if anyone else has encountered this but: slag in the channels that allow you to take a switch apart.
Sadly, given where this was, it didn't prevent me from assembling and soldering my boards, and so now I either need to desolder...or cut the switch top apart (which is what I did in the photo). I own a few good needle file sets and was able to carefully file the excess metal down to allow clearance to re-assemble and disassemble the switch fine.
I really file like I got the **** end of the stick with 3 out of 6 total plates requiring re-working...
yes, sorry for the late update. i shipped those out earlier this week. i sent 10 extra screws to everyone who asked for them or mentioned that they had been shorted. hopefully this is all fixed now.
yes, sorry for the late update. i shipped those out earlier this week. i sent 10 extra screws to everyone who asked for them or mentioned that they had been shorted. hopefully this is all fixed now.
Any update on the replacement plates?