Hi everyone.
Some months ago I built a lily58l from keycapsss. I made a very stiff gasket mount case, today I bring you its high profile version with some corrections and closer cuts to have a better aesthetic.
That case was made using this PCB as reference but I think it should fit others models as they have same screw placements and same size. I used the original files from kata to make the case
https://github.com/kata0510/Lily58Sorry for the lack of photos but I lost the photos of the process during some mobile cleaning. That's the previous model, the new one has better fit to keys, connections and screen, it also uses a button for the reset button. Other things as mounting system or plate are exactly the same.
One photo:
I couldn't print the new version as my printer controller died and I'm experiencing some problems with my actual filament. I'll try to print it during the following weeks.
Files in
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4876875That's intended only for non-commercial usage.
You have the original files if you want to modify it.
Parts needed:
M2x3mm screws
M2x4mm screws (maybe you are fine using only the M2x3, that worked for me with the firsts layers compression)
M2x10mm screws
M2x3mm Standoffs (the ones with holes in both sides)
M2x3mm inserts for 3d print
You have to calibrate your horizontal expansion. I like that it fits very tight but a looser fit will also work.
I'm not a 3d printer expert, I found a bit strong firsts layers compression. I'll tell you some tricks to solve this.
Print all the parts, for the left half just mirror the parts in the slicer or other program.
The case top and plate are printed upside down. The bottom case just prints normal.
The PCB must be completed before mounting the case.
First. Screw the M2x3mm into the standoffs.
It should look like this
Then, screw the PCB using the washers to adapt the big holes of the PCB. You may need M2x4mm instead of the M2x3mm. I used M2x3mm screws.
If the plate is less than 5mm due to layer compression, you can use the flat washer between the plate and PCB.
Now, pick the top part and place the inserts using a soldering iron:
Place the reset button:
Insert the PCB and plate into the upper part
Place the bottom part.
If the plate doesn't fit well, you can place an EVA foam strip on the bottom case where the plate sits. To cute it, use the plate for the outer cut and the PCB for the inner cut.
Screw the M2x10mm.
Congrats, you have finished it.
I'm quite proud of this design, I think I achieved a quite decent level as a designer and at least I found a quite decent way of creating good 3d printed cases.
There is a numpad prototype using almost the same design system. This one still needs redesign work as it also has a 3d printed PCB and hand wiring.
I'm thinking about creating a web app to easily create this kind of designs, but I still have to think more about it. I would like to have some revenue for my work, but I also would like to find my own way. Not to create something that can harm other creators or being used for low effort commercial work. I want to create something that could benefit to individuals who want to explore strange layouts or have the most customized keyboard.
