$400 IPS 2560x1440 Monitor - Glossy = No AG Coating

[Hak Foo]

monitors love milkshakes

when you factor in the cost of a decent stand or arm and the possibility of panel defects, then add tax, i think these are less of a deal than a good new normal. the margins on IPS monitors in the US so far has been pretty high; HP happily charged 700+ for this same panel, maybe one grade higher. meanwhile, dell has been able to offer their T1 affiliates IPS monitor pricing that is literally 60% of their sale-adjusted retail price, while still making a per-unit profit!

anyway, i can only see good things coming of these. more cheap IPS panels in the US means more IPS panels in the US period.

The risk is, "will this be the model they follow?"

It's a lot like when 24" monitors got popular.  They started out with great panels, 1920x1200.  Then they started offering them with cheap TN panels, and then as 1920x1080.  Now I can buy a 24" LCD for $189, but a non-TN, 1920x1200 unit will set me back twice what I spent in 2008.

[dorkvader]

Now I can buy a 24" LCD for $189, but a non-TN, 1920x1200 unit will set me back twice what I spent in 2008.

That's only because "twice what you spent in 2008" is what these 27" IPS ones cost now.

[mkawa]

The risk is, "will this be the model they follow?"

It's a lot like when 24" monitors got popular.  They started out with great panels, 1920x1200.  Then they started offering them with cheap TN panels, and then as 1920x1080.  Now I can buy a 24" LCD for $189, but a non-TN, 1920x1200 unit will set me back twice what I spent in 2008.

good point. what's interesting about these is that they're not 1080p. 1080p panels in every size are unfortunately going to be the most common panel no matter what we want or do as enthusiasts..

still, a whole bunch of cheap ips 1080p panels wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. one video card can drive like 6 monitors now. huzzah!

What I don't understand is why they don't sell it as a 120hz monitor. GPUs and CPU's benefit from longer lifetimes, so I understand those being sold at a lower stock clock, but what reason is there to do this with a monitor?

i believe the panel elements themselves are not guaranteed to be able to refresh that quickly.

[TheProfosist]

So i think i am going to bite the bullet should I go for the catleap or the crossover?

[AKIMbO]

So i think i am going to bite the bullet should I go for the catleap or the crossover?

Go crossover...but only if you are getting a 27 q or q-p.  It has much better build quality than the catleap.

[TheProfosist]

Go crossover...but only if you are getting a 27 q or q-p.  It has much better build quality than the catleap.

Is it really worth the $45? I plan to buy from green-sum. Catleap http://tinyurl.com/6p4mcoh Crossover http://tinyurl.com/cmtz3su

Also what do you all think of the extended warranty? Is it something that I should look into?

I think id also need a stand because i looks like both of them would sit really low on the desk. I was looking at this one http://tinyurl.com/7no8394

[AKIMbO]

Is it really worth the $45? I plan to buy from green-sum. Catleap http://tinyurl.com/6p4mcoh Crossover http://tinyurl.com/cmtz3su

Also what do you all think of the extended warranty? Is it something that I should look into?

I think id also need a stand because i looks like both of them would sit really low on the desk. I was looking at this one http://tinyurl.com/7no8394

If you plan on using a VESA stand then you have to take off the bezel on the catleap to remove that stupid plastic bar they have covering the vesa holes.  Personally, I think the $45 is worth it.  I went with cross over instead of with catleap...solely for the metal monitor housing/bezel, better stand, and easy access to the VESA mounting holes.

[TheProfosist]

If you plan on using a VESA stand then you have to take off the bezel on the catleap to remove that stupid plastic bar they have covering the vesa holes.  Personally, I think the $45 is worth it.  I went with cross over instead of with catleap...solely for the metal monitor housing/bezel, better stand, and easy access to the VESA mounting holes.

Makes sense, I think ill probably grab the crossover then when I do bite.

[mSSM]

So all the cool kids go for the Crossover 27q led-p? If I want to replace the foot stand anyhow, I can just get the Cross 27q led (non-p), is that right?

Too bad there is only one guy selling the 27q with Pixel Perfect guarantee:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-Perfect-Pixel-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/120926762189?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbf4cd

What do people think of the Achieva Shimian and, since recently, the Potalion?



EDIT: That guy who is selling the 27q in the link I gave actually promises to have grade A+ panels. Hmmm.... Does anyone here have experience with those?

[dorkvader]

I've worked on a couple apple cinema displays. The motherboards aren't fun to replace and the panel is somewhat heavy (just like the iMac: Heavy)

But I don't have any real experience other than that, sorry.

[Hak Foo]

Just pulled the trigger on a Catleap.  I spent the ridiculous premium for a tested perfect specimen ($375 vs. $310 or so to take your chances)

I suspect I'll be repurposing my 24" Soyo Topaz S, either passing it to a family member for their PC, or setting it up with a box to use as a TV (another family member has a 17" CRT from 1986; it soldiers on in spite of sitting where the toilet flooded some years ago, but the conversion box quality is mediocre).

The one thing which annoyed me is the relatively poor input selection.  Even if I paid another 90 bucks or so for the multi-input model, it's just VGA and HDMI.  I recall in the old days, some of the fancier LCDs came with S-video and composite in, maybe even component.  It would be nice to wire up the old Famiclone...

Someone should make a passthrough box that takes DVI and can overlay any of an array of inputs.  And sell it for about $50.

[dorkvader]

Someone should make a passthrough box that takes DVI and can overlay any of an array of inputs.  And sell it for about $50.

Not at this resolution: Decoding that much video would surely take a beefy chip. Such a thing would likely be more expensive, though I wonder if one can make video-input to a normal (old) computer and just use that. A Pentium 4 would probably have enough power to do it, even undervolted some for lower power consumption.

Still, I imagine it'd be much easier to stream all your data over a network, and just get a video card with the proper outputs for the computer attached to it.

[Hak Foo]

So I shoulld fire up the Sandy Bridge PC with a 650 watt power supply to process an image that a normal television has no trouble displaying?  The technology for cheap PiP composition has been around since the 80s at least-- especially if you offer it with some compromises (i. e. "only a 640x480 window or full-screen pillarboxed")

[TheProfosist]

Is anyone still buying these?

[MissileMike]

I recently bought the Microcenter Auria 27"...  I tested it in-store for dead pixels and there were none.  Lots of different inputs and no problems here in the first month of using it.  I think that makes it worth the 400$ for sure.

[TheProfosist]

I recently bought the Microcenter Auria 27"...  I tested it in-store for dead pixels and there were none.  Lots of different inputs and no problems here in the first month of using it.  I think that makes it worth the 400$ for sure.

yea bought one of those for a friend nice screen crappy stand

[HolidaySHRIMP]

Those nixeus 27 are on amazon now too for $500. All positive reviews. Thinking of going this route myself.

[mkawa]

I recently bought the Microcenter Auria 27"...  I tested it in-store for dead pixels and there were none.  Lots of different inputs and no problems here in the first month of using it.  I think that makes it worth the 400$ for sure.

yea bought one of those for a friend nice screen crappy stand

protip: works well on an ergotron LX

[bavman]

I'd still go with the ebay route. You can find Achieva "perfect pixel" editions on there for around $350...and just under $300 if you wanna take a gamble with the regular ones.

[alaricljs]

Grrrr.. so tempting  Wonder if my video card can hack it.

[mkawa]

oh, and i totally forgot the ultimate protip: this is an ergotron LX, just rebranded.

http://www.amazon.com/HP-BT861AT-Single-Monitor-Arm/dp/B00455GH58/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1352132187&sr=8-8&keywords=ergotron+lx

[Binge]

These monitors were a huge hit on Techpowerup.  I've seen one in person and even if it isn't a 120Hz model it is a true IPS display.  Looks gorgeous with a tight pixel pitch.

[kmiller8]

Grrrr.. so tempting  Wonder if my video card can hack it.

Correct me if in wrong but only the first few batches of these korean monitors allied you to overcook beyond 60hz. None of the current products will allow you to overclpck from a hardware standpoint

[mkawa]

he's wondering whether his (pathetic, by the way) video card can render your basic copy of bejeweled at such a high resolution, not whether he can overclock the monitor.

[alaricljs]

damnit, Plants vs Zombies, get it right man.

[mkawa]

well that's your problem right there. you should be playing bejeweled 

[TheProfosist]

I recently bought the Microcenter Auria 27"...  I tested it in-store for dead pixels and there were none.  Lots of different inputs and no problems here in the first month of using it.  I think that makes it worth the 400$ for sure.

yea bought one of those for a friend nice screen crappy stand

protip: works well on an ergotron LX

wil inform the person I got it for.

[TheProfosist]

alaricljs what gpu are you running?

[alaricljs]

uuuuh, 6870, had to look it up.

[TheProfosist]

should be more than enough jujst dont forget the duallink dvi cable

[alaricljs]

Got those set, running a pair of dell 24's right now... 2407 and 2408

[mkawa]

aren't those single link?

[alaricljs]

yeah, but I plan for the future... 15' fully populated DVI-D/A cables.  So my ergotron's are all nice and smexy.

[metafour]

I recently bought the Microcenter Auria 27"...  I tested it in-store for dead pixels and there were none.  Lots of different inputs and no problems here in the first month of using it.  I think that makes it worth the 400$ for sure.

My local microcenter had an open box one for ~$260 the other day. I was like 10 seconds too late. Still stuck on a 19" here.

[TheProfosist]

I recently bought the Microcenter Auria 27"...  I tested it in-store for dead pixels and there were none.  Lots of different inputs and no problems here in the first month of using it.  I think that makes it worth the 400$ for sure.

My local microcenter had an open box one for ~$260 the other day. I was like 10 seconds too late. Still stuck on a 19" here.

sucks!

[gliy]

aren't those single link?

Nope they are dual link. Heres a list of recommended cards: http://thecomvi.com/ROCK/DOA.jpg

I have the crossover monitor, and I must say it is beautiful. Mine has one dead pixel, but with 1440p you cant notice it unless you put your face like 1 inch away from the monitor and search for dead pixels.

[bavman]

Even cards that aren't listed as recommended will work as long as they support 2560x1600 (im pretty sure any GPU made in the past 5 years will) and has dual-link DVI.
I had no problem running my monitor with a 5850 even though most ebay sellers list it as incompatible.

[kaiserreich]

Even cards that aren't listed as recommended will work as long as they support 2560x1600 (im pretty sure any GPU made in the past 5 years will) and has dual-link DVI.
I had no problem running my monitor with a 5850 even though most ebay sellers list it as incompatible.

My hd5850 is working on these monitors too.
It's just that I have a dark screen until windows starts up. No BIOS access.

[bavman]

Even cards that aren't listed as recommended will work as long as they support 2560x1600 (im pretty sure any GPU made in the past 5 years will) and has dual-link DVI.
I had no problem running my monitor with a 5850 even though most ebay sellers list it as incompatible.

My hd5850 is working on these monitors too.
It's just that I have a dark screen until windows starts up. No BIOS access.

Yeah I heard that some people with 5850/5870s had that problem. I didn't experience this, though my card was non-ref so that might have something to do with it.

[dorkvader]

Even cards that aren't listed as recommended will work as long as they support 2560x1600 (im pretty sure any GPU made in the past 5 years will) and has dual-link DVI.
I had no problem running my monitor with a 5850 even though most ebay sellers list it as incompatible.

My hd5850 is working on these monitors too.
It's just that I have a dark screen until windows starts up. No BIOS access.

That's what PS2 keyboards and CRT's were made for. I use a CRT as a footrest for this reason. I was looking into what sort of GPU you need to actually get decent framerates out of a game at this resolution, and it seems I'm looking at about $250-$300 for a 7850/7970 or a gtx660. If I want to cheap out, is the best idea to just run games at low resolution (Which I do anyway on my CRT)? To be honest, I really only want this for use as movies/everyday use/having many windows open at once/etc.

Oh, I also keep CRT's around 'cause they can do 1024*768 at 119Hz. That and contrast ratio, no lag, price (free), etc.

[TheProfosist]

I never had a nice crt still kinda looking for one to this day. It would also be a dream of mine to own one of those widscreen professional ones.

[BossBorot]

I had a fw-900 crt (24" 16:10 >1080p) before going for ips screens (plp 20 - 30 - 20 at home and 27 at work) and while it was nice it just cant hold a candle to what is out now in my opinion. The only thing I really miss is the black levels all of the other pros, at least to me, where not worth the trade offs.

Resolution is king and even the best crts cant do 2560x1600 or similar resolutions well even with overclocking.

[dorkvader]

Just for reference, the Sony GDM-FW900 (mine was rebranded as an HP 2132A) can do 1920*1200 at 85 Hz. At that refresh rate, I recommend a seriously HQ VGA cable or use the BNC inputs. Best part about good CRT's is that I can get them for free out of the E-waste pile. My FW-900 was stripped for parts after it developed a whine. Currently I am using an Apple 21" CRT (Diamondtron, I think) and a viewsonic (Diamondtron for sure). They can do upwards of 110Hz at some resolutions, and I would not consider using any CRT below 75 Hz.

Right now, I'm getting a video card. In 2013 I'll get one of these monitors. What's been putting me off is that I see a lot of apple products at work, and I was not impressed with the 27" iMac or the apple cinema/thunderbolt displays. The (Supposedly IPS) displays on high-end Lenovos do look nice, though.

I have been doing some reading into these monitors, and hopefully they won't be too expensive when I finally buy one.

[nullstring]

I haven't read through the whole thread, but if you've yet to see this:
http://slickdeals.net/f/5411750-Heads-Up-Monoprice-to-introduce-27-2560-x1440-IPS-Monitor-by-end-of-year?&page=2

I'm going to wait for monoprice to release one of these before buying one.

[TheProfosist]

The one from microcenter is already pretty cheap idk how much cheaper the monoprice one will be.

[nullstring]

The one from microcenter is already pretty cheap idk how much cheaper the monoprice one will be.

It won't be, but I don't have a microcenter around here and I am worried about returning it if I buy it online.

[TheProfosist]

The one from microcenter is already pretty cheap idk how much cheaper the monoprice one will be.

It won't be, but I don't have a microcenter around here and I am worried about returning it if I buy it online.

i wouldnt be worried as long as your under warrenty just contact them startup an RMA and ship it back like you would with anyother company?

[damorgue]

I have been thinking of adding a larger display to my Dell 2410 for a while now, and replacing my crappy secondary.

-Can someone more in touch with the recent events enlighten me on how many of these models havea glass surface? I really like the idea that it can easily be cleaned and the glossy surface.

-Does anyone know how to disaple the power features on displayport. I began to hate it and switched back to DVI because it wouldn't allow me to turn off one diplay awhilst keeping the other one turned on.

Is there any model which has:
-Glass front
-16:10 <-- seems uncommon
-Nice colours, ie IPS
-27"-30"

and also if possible, but not necessary:
-overclockable to ~120Hz
-nice stand (tiltable, height, rotateable etc)

[dorkvader]

16:10 would be 2560*1600, which is more commonly seen on 30" panels, as far as I know. Most of these are the 27" 16:9 2560*1440. I don't personally know of any cheap 16:10 ones, but that's no reason to think they don't exist or are even hard to find. As far as not-cheap ones, I think Dell, at least has one.

The apple cinema Display that features the same panel has a nice glass front, some USB ports, and even has a fan inside it. They look very sharp with apple products.

I believe I saw somewhere that some models of the cheap korean 2560*1440 monitors come with glass, which would satisfy (most of) your requirements too.

That's the extent of my research. I didn't really look into 16:10 that much, mainly 'cause it was so much more expensive.
---


I have a question for the crowd. I've seen a lot of different laptop panels, and I have some issues with many (newer MBP displays are common, and exhibit this). I can see them flickering! I'm pretty sure the same goes for the apple cinema display, but I haven't worked on one in a while to double check. I keep CRT's at home, and I can't abide anything under 77Hz, and often 77 is too low. I guess my flicker threshold is really high. My main monitor is kept at 1600*1200@85, which is great. (It can do 1024*768@200 Hz, but that resolution is too low. I tried it just for fun once.)

Other than getting an expensive one from 120hz.net, is there a way to get one of these cheaply that can do 75-80Hz? I'm pretty sure that'll be enough to not annoy me.

[alaricljs]

You really shouldn't see LCD refresh flicker... but you MIGHT be seeing the back light flicker.  Newer MBPs are all LED tho, right?  Have you fiddled with the brightness to see if the flicker changes speed?