[GB COMPLETE] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, More available soon

[Overchecken8]

Just built mine and I’m having an odd issue. The entire caps lock/enter row doesn’t appear to be working. I thought it might be a problem with the firmware so I tried to just flash the default layout, but I’m QMK firmware builder every time I plug it in, the output screen flies by with a few different errors repeating over and over again (I’ll have to try again in the morning to get the exact errors). Anyone know what it could be? I thought it might be that my screw in gmk stabs might be shorting something?

You probably overtightentes your stabs. Try backing the screws off a little or install washers on them.

Yup that was it. Put some electrical tape in between the screws and the PCB and now everything works great.

[oumakavoula]

any update on someone trying holtites ? thanks

[pixelpusher]

Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates?  would love to pick up an extra at some point

[TheKeyCompany]

Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates?  would love to pick up an extra at some point

Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.

[tex_live_utility]

Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates?  would love to pick up an extra at some point

Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.

Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?

[TheKeyCompany]

Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates?  would love to pick up an extra at some point

Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.

Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?

PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.

[tex_live_utility]

Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates?  would love to pick up an extra at some point

Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.

Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?

PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.

I don't mind waiting, I'm just trying to make sure that everything will be in stock simultaneously. Are you planning on making sure the OLED kit is available concurrently as well, or should I grab one soon in anticipation of eventually getting the kit?

[thinkriver]

PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.

Will you also provide assembly service for full kit when it is restocked?

[TerryMathews]

Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates?  would love to pick up an extra at some point

Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.

Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?

PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.

I don't mind waiting, I'm just trying to make sure that everything will be in stock simultaneously. Are you planning on making sure the OLED kit is available concurrently as well, or should I grab one soon in anticipation of eventually getting the kit?

OLED kits are sourced domestically, so the lead time for TKC to get them is days, not months.

[alphabirth]

I have a question for anybody whose installed the PCB and plate into the Dolch PAC's G80-1813: is everything held into place by the plate cutouts on the upper part of the case, or is there a better method?  The screw holes don't line up at all, unfortunately.

[Delirious]

I have a question for anybody whose installed the PCB and plate into the Dolch PAC's G80-1813: is everything held into place by the plate cutouts on the upper part of the case, or is there a better method?  The screw holes don't line up at all, unfortunately.

I put clay on the bottom to stop the pcb from moving. Good old fiction

[alphabirth]

Hey, that's a good idea!  That probably works well for sound dampening too.  Thanks for the super helpful answer! 

[pixelpusher]

Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates?  would love to pick up an extra at some point

Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.

Waiting kinda patiently.  It’s been over 6 weeks.   Any updates on plates or PCBs?

[h9n9n3]

Hi, fellas it must be a noob question but when I
(1) got the hex file using: https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
(2) and flashed the hex file (both flip and QMK toolbox), the default LED control was 'breathing'.
But I wanna have static LEDs. Should I compile something? Thanks in advance, and pic of the board:


 

[pixelpusher]

Hi, fellas it must be a noob question but when I
(1) got the hex file using: https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
(2) and flashed the hex file (both flip and QMK toolbox), the default LED control was 'breathing'.
But I wanna have static LEDs. Should I compile something? Thanks in advance, and pic of the board:
(Attachment Link)

Hmm, I still haven't built mine so I never saw that the default layout didn't have a function layer present yet.

First, you'll want to make one of the keys on the 0 layer a modifier key (MO).  This will be a key that, when held, allows you to go to the specified layer.  Probably want to pick the right control or menu key for it.  Select one of those keys and then click on "MO" in the "Layer Functions" category.  You'll need to change the zero to a 1 when it goes on your layout.



Next, click on the layer 1 option and assign a key to be "BL Cycle."  I'll use "B" for backlight in this example:


You might as well add some other functionality while you're at it like increase and decrease brightness and some media keys.

Once you have it set like you want, fill in the Keymap name to something unique and press "compile" in the top right of the editor.  It will take a few seconds but should finish with a message saying "file size is fine"



You'll then have an option to download the firmware at the bottom:


Flash the new firmware to your board, hold the function key and press your BL Cycle keybind. 

Super jealous of that white case.  It looks so nice.

[h9n9n3]

Hi, fellas it must be a noob question but when I
(1) got the hex file using: https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
(2) and flashed the hex file (both flip and QMK toolbox), the default LED control was 'breathing'.
But I wanna have static LEDs. Should I compile something? Thanks in advance, and pic of the board:
(Attachment Link)

Hmm, I still haven't built mine so I never saw that the default layout didn't have a function layer present yet.

First, you'll want to make one of the keys on the 0 layer a modifier key (MO).  This will be a key that, when held, allows you to go to the specified layer.  Probably want to pick the right control or menu key for it.  Select one of those keys and then click on "MO" in the "Layer Functions" category.  You'll need to change the zero to a 1 when it goes on your layout.

(Attachment Link)

Next, click on the layer 1 option and assign a key to be "BL Cycle."  I'll use "B" for backlight in this example:
(Attachment Link)

You might as well add some other functionality while you're at it like increase and decrease brightness and some media keys.

Once you have it set like you want, fill in the Keymap name to something unique and press "compile" in the top right of the editor.  It will take a few seconds but should finish with a message saying "file size is fine"

(Attachment Link)

You'll then have an option to download the firmware at the bottom:
(Attachment Link)

Flash the new firmware to your board, hold the function key and press your BL Cycle keybind. 

Super jealous of that white case.  It looks so nice.

Hi! Thanks for lots of details. I doubted my setup so I tried again, but once I press the BL cycle, the LEDs just go off.
Also, when I press the BL toggle, the LEDs are still in breathe mode. Hmmmmm. Maybe the problem is just for mine?
The case gives out retro look so well which I was just hoping to achieve!

[Mystogan]

Hi! Thanks for lots of details. I doubted my setup so I tried again, but once I press the BL cycle, the LEDs just go off.
Also, when I press the BL toggle, the LEDs are still in breathe mode. Hmmmmm. Maybe the problem is just for mine?
The case gives out retro look so well which I was just hoping to achieve!

I used this method for flashing: https://www.reddit.com/r/olkb/comments/7pnsrc/qmk_guide_for_flashing_keyboards/

Then inside "\QMK\keyboards\tkc1800\keymaps\default\keymap.c" changed one of the function layer keys to "BL_BRTG" which should toggle the breathing effect.

For a list of all other keycodes see here: https://beta.docs.qmk.fm/reference/keycodes

[Mystogan]

Finally got round to building mine, ordered a plate and PCB to fit on a standard white G80-1800.
All in all a great PCB to work with.

The plate however doesn't work with the ISO layout, as a previous post mentioned.
A bit of a nuisance but a quick dremel session fixed that - had to dremel the case anyway.
Will that be fixed in the next round?

Anyways, does anyone know how to change the brightness of the indicator LEDs in QMK, currently it is set at max and it's annoyingly bright.
I can dim it manually by placing masking tape over the LEDs or adding resistors to them but would rather not open up the case again.

[BlindAssassin111]

Finally got round to building mine, ordered a plate and PCB to fit on a standard white G80-1800.
All in all a great PCB to work with.

The plate however doesn't work with the ISO layout, as a previous post mentioned.
A bit of a nuisance but a quick dremel session fixed that - had to dremel the case anyway.
Will that be fixed in the next round?

Anyways, does anyone know how to change the brightness of the indicator LEDs in QMK, currently it is set at max and it's annoyingly bright.
I can dim it manually by placing masking tape over the LEDs or adding resistors to them but would rather not open up the case again.

I fixed the plate right after the issue was noticed, all new plates have the fix. As for the LEDs I have no idea...

[Mystogan]

Finally got round to building mine, ordered a plate and PCB to fit on a standard white G80-1800.
All in all a great PCB to work with.

The plate however doesn't work with the ISO layout, as a previous post mentioned.
A bit of a nuisance but a quick dremel session fixed that - had to dremel the case anyway.
Will that be fixed in the next round?

Anyways, does anyone know how to change the brightness of the indicator LEDs in QMK, currently it is set at max and it's annoyingly bright.
I can dim it manually by placing masking tape over the LEDs or adding resistors to them but would rather not open up the case again.

I fixed the plate right after the issue was noticed, all new plates have the fix. As for the LEDs I have no idea...

That's good to know.

Now to decide whether I need another 1800-layout keyboard...

[CodeMonkeyX]

So I am new to all this, and was checking out the site for this kit (https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc1800-kit?variant=12140434620516) and I am wondering, why do they offer additional PCB's and Plates on the order? Are they purely as backup if you mess up the soldering or something in assembly?

Also, how often do group buys like this come around? I love the gray and orange scheme, but obviously sold out.

[portbaron]

So I am new to all this, and was checking out the site for this kit (https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc1800-kit?variant=12140434620516) and I am wondering, why do they offer additional PCB's and Plates on the order? Are they purely as backup if you mess up the soldering or something in assembly?

Also, how often do group buys like this come around? I love the gray and orange scheme, but obviously sold out.

You can put them in regular cherry g80 1800s.

[TerryMathews]

So I am new to all this, and was checking out the site for this kit (https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc1800-kit?variant=12140434620516) and I am wondering, why do they offer additional PCB's and Plates on the order? Are they purely as backup if you mess up the soldering or something in assembly?

Also, how often do group buys like this come around? I love the gray and orange scheme, but obviously sold out.

You can put them in regular cherry g80 1800s.

Or Dolch PACs or TX1800s.

[Corgi Butts]

Just realized I never shared my finished build in this thread!  Candy Pink TKC-1800 with 67g lubed Zealios and GMK Laser.

[TheKeyCompany]

Just realized I never shared my finished build in this thread!  Candy Pink TKC-1800 with 67g lubed Zealios and GMK Laser.

Show Image

HOTDAMN! That looks nice! Thanks for sharing! How do you like it?

[Corgi Butts]

I like it a lot so far!  Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to.  My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.

[TheKeyCompany]

I like it a lot so far!  Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to.  My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.

It wont take long....

Any feedback on the finish / build quality?

[portbaron]

Guess I'll post this R1 I made a few months ago, 65g ergo clears. Used on 100 hrs or so of games etc. So far so good, the case is really nice. Got several more R2s ordered lol.

[BlindAssassin111]

Guess I'll post this R1 I made a few months ago, 65g ergo clears. Used on 100 hrs or so of games etc. So far so good, the case is really nice. Got several more R2s ordered lol.

Nice! Awesome to see another Tanzanite board built.

[TheKeyCompany]

Guess I'll post this R1 I made a few months ago, 65g ergo clears. Used on 100 hrs or so of games etc. So far so good, the case is really nice. Got several more R2s ordered lol.

"Several more....." I know who you are!

Glad you like it! Yuri looks really nice on there.

[Corgi Butts]

I like it a lot so far!  Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to.  My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.

It wont take long....

Any feedback on the finish / build quality?

The finish is top notch.    I run over it with some cleaning swabs every couple days to keep it nice and glossy.  Build quality seems good, has a nice heft to it I didn't expect from a plastic case once fully assembled.  The only thing that bugs me is the 2mm or so black seam that stands out where the two halves of the case meet.  Shame Cherry didn't originally make it so the two halves fit together more flush.

[TheKeyCompany]

I like it a lot so far!  Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to.  My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.

It wont take long....

Any feedback on the finish / build quality?

The finish is top notch.    I run over it with some cleaning swabs every couple days to keep it nice and glossy.  Build quality seems good, has a nice heft to it I didn't expect from a plastic case once fully assembled.  The only thing that bugs me is the 2mm or so black seam that stands out where the two halves of the case meet.  Shame Cherry didn't originally make it so the two halves fit together more flush.

Glad you like it! The microfiber cloths from 3M work REALLY well for cleaning fingerprints off them (its what they use at car shows to clean the paint) 

As far as that gap goes; Ive tried a few things to eliminate it. There is no way to get it painted without getting drips. Its frustrating to me, but is just something we have to live with. Good thing is, its not really visible on the darker colored cases.

[RominRonin]

I bought a board with a TKC 1800 pcb from Mechmarket, I want to use the qmk configurator for a custom layout I want, any pointers on how to an ANSI layout with split left shift and split back space loaded into the configurator?

https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT

Thanks.

[TerryMathews]

I bought a board with a TKC 1800 pcb from Mechmarket, I want to use the qmk configurator for a custom layout I want, any pointers on how to an ANSI layout with split left shift and split back space loaded into the configurator?

https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT

Thanks.

Hit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious

[RominRonin]

Hit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious

Indeed, I also need to search this thread about the "failed to write..." error [hint: L.shift + R.shift + Pause to enter bootloader in the default firmware].

I really love this board, I'm interested in another PCB (maybe a couple more). The only thing is I have no idea where to source the metal bar for the space bar stabilisers, any ideas?

[pixelpusher]

Hit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious

Indeed, I also need to search this thread about the "failed to write..." error [hint: L.shift + R.shift + Pause to enter bootloader in the default firmware].

I really love this board, I'm interested in another PCB (maybe a couple more). The only thing is I have no idea where to source the metal bar for the space bar stabilisers, any ideas?

I'm assuming you are using MX switches.  If you are using alps, disregard this entire post 

You'll just need to buy a 6.25u stabilizer.  I don't know of anyone that sells only the wire.  Most people only sell a full set of stabilizers (a 6.25 for space bar, and 4 more 2unit stabilizers for shift keys, enter, and backspace).

You'll want to buy original Cherry stabilizers, made by GMK in Germany.  Choose PCB mount, not Plate mount.  Some people prefer to get screw-in stabilizers b/c there is a chance of pulling the clip-in (normal) kind out of the PCB when removing the keycap.  GMK Cherry stabilizers will still need to be clipped and lubricated to sound and feel the best.  You can find videos and posts about how to do that.  But here are some example links to what you're looking for:

Buy only a 6.25u here (and some full sets):
https://www.originativeco.com/products/cherry-screw-in-stabilizers?variant=30044585744
https://www.originativeco.com/products/cherry-pcb-mounted-stabilizer?variant=18808073285
https://www.switchtop.com/product/gmk-screw-in-pcb-stabilizers
https://mehkee.com/collections/accessories-parts/products/cherry-stabilizers?variant=7857511170076
https://sentraq.com/collections/accesories/products/cherry-screw-in-pcb-mount-stabilizers?variant=40864212042
https://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/authentic-cherry-pcb-plate-mount-gold-plated-stabilizers


Full sets here:
https://kbdfans.cn/products/cherry-original-pcb-stabilizers
https://www.1upkeyboards.com/shop/parts-and-tools/gmk-screw-in-stabilizers/

TLDR:  Buy 6.25 PCB mount Cherry stabilizer made by GMK

[TerryMathews]

Hit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious

Indeed, I also need to search this thread about the "failed to write..." error [hint: L.shift + R.shift + Pause to enter bootloader in the default firmware].

I really love this board, I'm interested in another PCB (maybe a couple more). The only thing is I have no idea where to source the metal bar for the space bar stabilisers, any ideas?

Failed to start write is the firmware failing to open a connection to the to the optional OLED screen. Flashing a new firmware will fix that as well, I came up with a way for the firmware to disable the screen routine if the screen is absent at power up.

[pixelpusher]

Has anyone heard any updates on the last presale stuff?  I ordered a black MX plate, and I'm still waiting to get it before I can build my original board

[portbaron]

Has anyone heard any updates on the last presale stuff?  I ordered a black MX plate, and I'm still waiting to get it before I can build my original board

Was it out of stock? I got all my stuff many months ago from last round. Maybe it will come when the new round stuff comes.

[CodeMonkeyX]

Any update on the next lot of shipments?

I ordered from the website a while back, and it said that they would probably ship around late November. Getting up to around that time and was just wondering if there are any more refined estimated for shipment dates now?

[alphabirth]

Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input.  (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox).  I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering.    But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts...  Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device?  Is there a chance I've just fried it?

[TheKeyCompany]

Has anyone heard any updates on the last presale stuff?  I ordered a black MX plate, and I'm still waiting to get it before I can build my original board

Any update on the next lot of shipments?

I ordered from the website a while back, and it said that they would probably ship around late November. Getting up to around that time and was just wondering if there are any more refined estimated for shipment dates now?

Update here:

https://thekey.company/blogs/blog-updates/tkc-status-updates-gmk-terminal-tkc1800-candybar-m0lly-and-more

[TerryMathews]

Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input.  (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox).  I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering.    But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts...  Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device?  Is there a chance I've just fried it?

Unscrew your screw stabilizers. You're shorting out. You can fix it by putting a piece of electrical tape between the  PCB and screw. Poke a he with a needle and the screw can go through.

[Delirious]

Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input.  (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox).  I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering.    But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts...  Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device?  Is there a chance I've just fried it?

Unscrew your screw stabilizers. You're shorting out. You can fix it by putting a piece of electrical tape between the  PCB and screw. Poke a he with a needle and the screw can go through.

He's using plastic washers for all the screw-ins so I dont think those are the causes.

Try using a mini usb cable and plug the board in. If it works that means your fixed cable setup is incorrect. I think the black and red wires are in the correct positions, maybe swapping the yellow and teal

[TerryMathews]

Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input.  (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox).  I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering.    But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts...  Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device?  Is there a chance I've just fried it?

Unscrew your screw stabilizers. You're shorting out. You can fix it by putting a piece of electrical tape between the  PCB and screw. Poke a he with a needle and the screw can go through.

He's using plastic washers for all the screw-ins so I dont think those are the causes.

Try using a mini usb cable and plug the board in. If it works that means your fixed cable setup is incorrect. I think the black and red wires are in the correct positions, maybe swapping the yellow and teal

My bad looking on my PC at home I see the washers now.

Looks like he's using the RJ11 jack from a Dolch PAC case. So how that's wired into the USB is relevant as well.

Definitely try a normal mini USB cable. I bet it will be fine and your issue is in the RJ11 wiring.

[alphabirth]

This was with using a mini-usb cable--I don't have the other half of the RJ11 cable done yet to test that connection!  I'll double check that the stabs aren't being shorted out--I am using plastic washers there, but maybe something on the other side?  I'm also going to go over the back of the PCB with an alcohol wipe to clean it up in case any tiny bits of solder splattered and are causing the short.  I'll report back how it goes!

[alphabirth]

So I tried desoldering the RJ-11 connector as suggested, and the board started working again.  I checked it out, and that particular jack was shorting out the D+ and GND pins. :/  Fortunately, I had a spare on hand, and was able to replace it.  Now it's working great!  I'm typing this on that board right now, and it's feeling pretty fantastic. 

[glubazoid]

Any updates on the mini-buy?

[pixelpusher]

So I tried desoldering the RJ-11 connector as suggested, and the board started working again.  I checked it out, and that particular jack was shorting out the D+ and GND pins. :/  Fortunately, I had a spare on hand, and was able to replace it.  Now it's working great!  I'm typing this on that board right now, and it's feeling pretty fantastic. 
(Attachment Link)

That’s an awesome project.  Did you do a write up anywhere?  Are there photos of you progress?

[112227]

any update on the 09/21 mini-buy? I got an e-mail saying you can buy kits today and they are shipping asap...