Author Topic: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?  (Read 1863 times)

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Offline davkol

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Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 04:57:40 »
The title says it all. How to tell, whether keycaps are dye-subbed, or high-quality pad-printed?

I've tried to scratch the keycap, but lettering wasn't damaged. There might be some sort of coating though.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #1 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 05:54:34 »
If they're pad printed, the letters will be *slightly* raised and you should be able to feel the difference. It's been very obvious on my 700R and Filco MJ2 caps.

Offline davkol

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #2 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 06:07:10 »
I can't feel it, that's why I'm asking.

Offline MKULTRA

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #3 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 06:10:37 »
I can't feel it, that's why I'm asking.
Post pics?

Offline phx

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #4 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 09:25:54 »
if you can't feel it then it's dye sub.
a lot of modern rubber domes are dye sub I think.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #5 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 09:28:01 »
I can't feel it, that's why I'm asking.

Sounds like it might be dye-sub. But on my 700R, I know they're pad printed and then there's a coating/sticker applied. So it feels smooth but they're pad printed.

Offline phx

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #6 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 09:59:52 »
well.... the sure way to tell is to cut one in half  :))

Offline Melvang

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #7 on: Fri, 09 August 2013, 14:31:58 »
Another way to tell is to hold the cap up so you can catch a reflection off the legend.  While moving it around slightly if you catch a very shiny spot only if a very close proximity to the legend than it is pad printed.  I believe the reason for this is in the printing process.  If my theory is correct it comes from the heat of the ink in the machine that puts the legends on and essentially polish's the area right next to the legend.

OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline esoomenona

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #8 on: Fri, 09 August 2013, 14:35:56 »
It's because they add a UV coating over the pad printing to add durability to the printing process.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #9 on: Fri, 09 August 2013, 14:36:19 »
Thats right i stand corrected
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline rowdy

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #10 on: Sat, 10 August 2013, 03:48:32 »
Some pictures of this would be nice, if anyone has any.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ

Offline Melvang

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #11 on: Sat, 10 August 2013, 06:58:14 »
Trying to catch that shiny spot around the legend might be a little on the difficult side
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline rowdy

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Re: Dye-subbed, or printed? How to tell the difference?
« Reply #12 on: Sat, 10 August 2013, 07:11:39 »
What about asking Dianoda?

His macro photos are fantastic!  See here.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ