Where are you on this already? Just design phase? Direct-wiring one up? Or does "coming soon" mean you will actually be producing a batch in the near future?
Okay, opening for comments. :)
Also, the bottom row should have options. So you could use either:
* 1.25-1-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1-1.25
* 1-1.25-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1.25-1
* 1.25-1.25-1.25-1-1.75-1.75-1-1.25-1.25-1.25
* 1.25-1.25-1-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1-1.25-1.25
Okay, opening for comments. :)
Also, the bottom row should have options. So you could use either:
* 1.25-1-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1-1.25
* 1-1.25-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1.25-1
* 1.25-1.25-1.25-1-1.75-1.75-1-1.25-1.25-1.25
* 1.25-1.25-1-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1-1.25-1.25
I think I might like a bigger target for my thumbs ... what about the following option:
1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 2.75 - 2.75 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25
Also, I like how the right side of row 3 ends in 1u - 1.25u, rather than the 1.25u - 1u of the JD40. I'm trying to concoct some method in my head where I can reverse those 2 keys on my SmallFry by doing some surgery on the keycap mounts :)
Okay, opening for comments. :)
Also, the bottom row should have options. So you could use either:
* 1.25-1-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1-1.25
* 1-1.25-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1.25-1
* 1.25-1.25-1.25-1-1.75-1.75-1-1.25-1.25-1.25
* 1.25-1.25-1-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1-1.25-1.25
I think I might like a bigger target for my thumbs ... what about the following option:
1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 2.75 - 2.75 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25
Also, I like how the right side of row 3 ends in 1u - 1.25u, rather than the 1.25u - 1u of the JD40. I'm trying to concoct some method in my head where I can reverse those 2 keys on my SmallFry by doing some surgery on the keycap mounts :)
I could include that, theoretically, but I was trying to keep it stabilizer-free. :)
Hmm,
try...
unsplit the space bar. Make the first row keys equal size so I can have an alt, ctrl, fn on both sides of the space bar and I'm sold.
No way. I love the split spacebar. No stabs to deal with and this gives us an extra modifier key we can program to whatever we want/need. I'm honestly hoping more boards go down this route in the future. Most of us only hit the spacebar in a fairly controlled space/area, anyways.
I like the bottom row ending in 1.25-1-1.25, and the row above it ending in 1-1.25. Means you can have arrow keys in the bottom right.
Ron, our hero.at least you hero for syml :))
I'd make the PCB, but I always get stuck at the controller, so many tracks, such little space.
Here you go. Full backlighting, a centered spacebar position, and an alternate 2x backspace key included.
Oh, Cherry MX and Alps-compatible as promised.
I'll run the Teensy under R2C12-13 once the layout is final. (Assuming JD likes it, etc.)
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
I'll try to knock out an MX/Alps PCB later today. May I add an optional spacebar position?
Where should CAPS, NUM and FN be?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Here you go. Full backlighting, a centered spacebar position, and an alternate 2x backspace key included.so fast and simply
Oh, Cherry MX and Alps-compatible as promised.
I'll run the Teensy under R2C12-13 once the layout is final. (Assuming JD likes it, etc.)
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Also, the bottom row should have options. So you could use either:
* 1.25-1-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1-1.25
* 1-1.25-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1.25-1
* 1.25-1.25-1.25-1-1.75-1.75-1-1.25-1.25-1.25
* 1.25-1.25-1-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1-1.25-1.25
Needs more bluetooth :D ;)get korean40% sir
Needs more bluetooth :D ;)get korean40% sir
That looks great, Ron! I don't know how hard it would be to include bottom row options for the following:Also, the bottom row should have options. So you could use either:
* 1.25-1-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1-1.25
* 1-1.25-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1.25-1
* 1.25-1.25-1.25-1-1.75-1.75-1-1.25-1.25-1.25
* 1.25-1.25-1-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1-1.25-1.25
That looks great, Ron! I don't know how hard it would be to include bottom row options for the following:Also, the bottom row should have options. So you could use either:
* 1.25-1-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1-1.25
* 1-1.25-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1.25-1
* 1.25-1.25-1.25-1-1.75-1.75-1-1.25-1.25-1.25
* 1.25-1.25-1-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1-1.25-1.25
Sorry, I missed that. I'll see what I can do.
I'd also like to squeeze in an arrow cluster option like the TG3. Of course that is a 15x6 board, so it will be harder to accomplish.
Question: Did you look at a 12.5 x 4 size? It eliminates unobtainable keycaps without expanding the matrix vs. a JD40.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Also, the bottom row should have options. So you could use either:
* 1.25-1-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1-1.25
* 1-1.25-1.25-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1.25-1.25-1
* 1.25-1.25-1.25-1-1.75-1.75-1-1.25-1.25-1.25
* 1.25-1.25-1-1.25-1.75-1.75-1.25-1-1.25-1.25
Yes, what you have for Alps would be fine. Our primary focus should be the availability of options for MX switches, with compatibility for Alps as important, but secondary.
Having only one bottom row option for Alps will simplify plate design for Alps, since Alps are dependent on the plate, where MX can be PCB mounted.
Yes, what you have for Alps would be fine. Our primary focus should be the availability of options for MX switches, with compatibility for Alps as important, but secondary.
Having only one bottom row option for Alps will simplify plate design for Alps, since Alps are dependent on the plate, where MX can be PCB mounted.
Yes, what you have for Alps would be fine. Our primary focus should be the availability of options for MX switches, with compatibility for Alps as important, but secondary.
Having only one bottom row option for Alps will simplify plate design for Alps, since Alps are dependent on the plate, where MX can be PCB mounted.
I tossed around the idea in another thread for doing hybrid Cherry/Alps PCB - but keeping all the stabilized keys as Cherry MX only and all 1x1 Alps.
It is relatively easy to fill in all the 1x1's with DoubleShots/PBT's from old Alps boards and much easier sourcing stabilizer compatible MX caps.
In my case I'd do everything with Matias Quiet Pro switches except the space bar which would be MX Tactile Gray, and O-Ring MX Clears on Shifts/Enter/BackSpace.
A bit crazy but if you are a flexible person it will make the Engineers life a lot easier :)
Looks like a winner to me. :D
Looks real good Ron. Some pointers on how you go about deciding the position fro the Teensy and then running those tracks would be immensely helpful.
Thanks.
Thanks Ron, I'm well-versed with everything that has been mentioned thus far (Thanks to regack <3), but in all my attempts, I get stuck after placing the Teensy or the controller circuit under the spacebar, then routing the signal traces, specially with the SMT controller and it's associated components.
I think I just need to practice more :/
PCB-mounted stabs, please. :)
Looks great, Ron. As always with you. :)PCB-mounted stabs, please. :)
I'm not sure that is feasible, with the constraints of the traces and holes for switch mounting options.
You can always use it with no stabilizers, as was my original design intention.
Let me see if I can get some 6.0 spacebar measurements for you, Ron. I have lots of those offset Cherry ones from G8X-1800s.
The Cherry 6.0-unit spacebar has stems that are 3.75" between the outer (stabilizer) stems. The stem for the switch is offset 0.375" to the right of center.
The SP DSA 6.0-unit and TG3-BL82 6.0-unit spacebars both have stems that are 3.00" between the outer (stabilizer) stems, with a centered spacebar stem.
As for the logo, I don't mind if it overlaps things. Sort of like how the [CTRL]ALT 60 looks, if you have seen that. You could try it at 1", but anywhere between 0.5"-1.0" should look fine. I leave placement to your discretion. :)
(But seriously, it boggles my mind how fast you whipped together the KiCad file for this board. You're awesome :) )
Would it be prudent to include a few mounting holes, do you think?
I don't want to sound like a jerk, I really appreciate your work Ron, however I think you should try to avoid the use of right angles in traces, it's just a bad practice, I know it has become less of a problem, but I still think it should be avoided if possible.
As I wrote in my earlier post, it probably really doesn't make a difference, but just for best practice.
Edit: And it looks pretty :)
Da best!
Time for prototypes...
What is this ISO? Never heard of it. ;)
This little beast uses a 1.75-unit key where Enter would be. With these few keys, I don't believe ISO Enter would be any advantage.
Sent you some messages JD :).
Sent you some messages JD :).
I love the look of OSH park boards. Purple FTW!
I love the look of OSH park boards. Purple FTW!
Speaking of this...who's the manufacturers of the white PCBs? Like the Phantom ones or the (I think) manufacturer of xwhatsit's controllers?
Blue would be sweet, what company does that color.
If anyone is interested in testing a prototype JD45, and being one of the first to have the JD45 experience, I'm looking to sell some beta testing spots to fund the prototypes. Cost will be around $27 per board, plus shipping (first class in a bubble mailer). This initial run will be Ron's through hole-and-Teensy version. In the near future, I will do the same for Joey Quinn's SMT version. REMINDER THAT THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO GUARANTEE THAT PROTOTYPE BOARDS WILL FUNCTION CORRECTLY, IF AT ALL.
in in in,
weirdly i just pm'd you before seeing this.
in 4 2, one for me and one for bunny - you getting cases cut?
I can get some cut here if you let me have a copy of the dxf.
thanks :)
I might be interested.The first round will require a Teensy 2.0 and through hole diodes.
What extra parts are needed other than pcb and switches?
The first round will require a Teensy 2.0 and through hole diodes.
Unsure if the second round will come with the 32U4 attached or loose, so TQFP soldering, then SMT diodes, and one of the supports backlighting so resistors and matching LEDs (SMT?) will be called for in that case but not the other run.
Would anyone know where I could get a housing manufactured for this board?I've not seen any .dxf of .svg drawing suggested, but Samwioski described what's needed regarding mounting holes ... 10x3 and four holes immediately in from the corners, so ....
I've not seen any .dxf of .svg drawing suggested, but Samwisekoi described what's needed regarding mounting holes ... 10x3 and four holes immediately in from the corners, so ....
If this board was 14x4 instead of 13x4, I'd be all over it - http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/12b25856c1a3b1d9109955b41d1647f7
If this board was 14x4 instead of 13x4, I'd be all over it - http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/12b25856c1a3b1d9109955b41d1647f7
Just wait for JD45 Mk.II or JD50...
If you like my JD40 keyboard, the predecessor to the JD45, please vote for it in the Deskthority Awards. :)
http://deskthority.net/final-vote-f84/best-space-saving-or-compact-keyboard-2014-t9311.html
I'll just leave this here...
- Ron | samwisekoi
I would be down for round 2 when it is available.
(Attachment Link)
Default key layout (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/88175a676b24608cebd5e34dec04cfe5)?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u8LVtCJ.png)
Default key layout (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/88175a676b24608cebd5e34dec04cfe5)?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u8LVtCJ.png)
Default key layout (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/88175a676b24608cebd5e34dec04cfe5)?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u8LVtCJ.png)
What is FIG?
Default key layout (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/88175a676b24608cebd5e34dec04cfe5)?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u8LVtCJ.png)
What is FIG?
Oh, FIGures. Its for the numpad layer, while SYMbol is for the number row and symbols layer. Basically two specific Fn layers.
Any update on the status of the prototypes?
As this materializes, the real question is how to get a pair of 1.75u keys to be convex like an actual spacebar...hmmm
As this materializes, the real question is how to get a pair of 1.75u keys to be convex like an actual spacebar...hmmm
If you find out the answer, please let us know! :D
As this materializes, the real question is how to get a pair of 1.75u keys to be convex like an actual spacebar...hmmm
If you find out the answer, please let us know! :D
Looks great! White on blue was a cool choice.White backlighting and Raindrop keycaps would be awesome on this board.
Yeah that would be sweet, are there backlight options or just on and off?
Updated. Does this work at all for the JD45?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o8jefdzqcvbdkoe/Easy_keymap_multiplatform_20150113.zip?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ek2ugi0zli8p3kt/Easy_keymap_20150113.zip?dl=0
Updated. Does this work at all for the JD45?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o8jefdzqcvbdkoe/Easy_keymap_multiplatform_20150113.zip?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ek2ugi0zli8p3kt/Easy_keymap_20150113.zip?dl=0
Thank you very much!
I will try as soon as I get to the office -- where the first prototype JD45 is currently.
FYI to other prototypers: if this version works, I'll be shipping the rest of the boards out shortly.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Updated. Does this work at all for the JD45?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o8jefdzqcvbdkoe/Easy_keymap_multiplatform_20150113.zip?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ek2ugi0zli8p3kt/Easy_keymap_20150113.zip?dl=0
Thank you very much!
I will try as soon as I get to the office -- where the first prototype JD45 is currently.
FYI to other prototypers: if this version works, I'll be shipping the rest of the boards out shortly.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Is it too late to get in on the prototyping action? Were there any extras?
This is beautiful, I'd love to get my hands on one when they are available.
Any thoughts on when that may be?
Best,
neverused
OK, fine. Here you go.
From my experience, these are the wrong keycaps and LEDs for this board. White LEDs and blue-and-white keycaps would be best.
I do find the JD45 an easier board to use than the JD40. The 13 keys on the top row means it better matches the Escape and Tilde rows on a normal keyboard. I am not sure yet about the Space/Backspace combo in this layout. I might move Backspace to the Menu position, and get back a pair of space bars. Using the Num Lock keycap for FN2 makes intuitive sense when i need to type numbers or symbols.
Anyhow, here are some photos.
- Ron | samwisekoi
These boards need some Hack'd by Geeks caps!
These boards need some Hack'd by Geeks caps!
Luckily, the designer and the GB leader got together and decided it would be a good idea to include the keycaps for it in the GB!!
:))
These boards need some Hack'd by Geeks caps!
Luckily, the designer and the GB leader got together and decided it would be a good idea to include the keycaps for it in the GB!!
:))
Only problem I've got is I'm seriously considering ordering a 2nd set of those caps for when I get a jd45 someday.
These boards need some Hack'd by Geeks caps!
Luckily, the designer and the GB leader got together and decided it would be a good idea to include the keycaps for it in the GB!!
:))
Only problem I've got is I'm seriously considering ordering a 2nd set of those caps for when I get a jd45 someday.
That's a problem how? ;)
^^
WalletHack'd
Ron, how are you liking those uniform sphericals on the JD45?
How would one go about getting a case for pcb mounted boards?
It seems like it's intended for a sandwich design that requires a plate.
EDIT: Does the layout in the OP require any stabilizers? The reason why I wanted PCB mount in the first place was because I wanted a board I could test out typing on.
How would one go about getting a case for pcb mounted boards?
It seems like it's intended for a sandwich design that requires a plate.
EDIT: Does the layout in the OP require any stabilizers? The reason why I wanted PCB mount in the first place was because I wanted a board I could test out typing on.
You can still plate mount the switches, even when they can mount to the PCB without a plate. So JD40-style plate cases are a viable option with these. There are also mounting holes in the corners, which could be used to mount the PCB into a tray style case.
The layout in the OP absolutely DOES NOT require any stabilizers. That was one of the design goals! :D
I keep staring at this thread willing it to post updates.
I want one now!Show Image(http://lifebeinggirly.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/veruca-salt.jpg)
No worries, take your time and get it right. Very excited for this!
Update: I need to go buy bigger mailers.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Update: I need to go buy bigger mailers.
- Ron | samwisekoi
I will pay extra to have mine shipped in a box.
I would not trust a bubble mailer for shipping a PCB ever.
Update: I need to go buy bigger mailers.
- Ron | samwisekoi
I will pay extra to have mine shipped in a box.
I would not trust a bubble mailer for shipping a PCB ever.
I shipped Enablers with bubble mailers. Even international. Hell I shipped a Teensy break out board to Australia in just an envelope. That one had a sticker on it that it couldn't be machine sorted though. That one arrived with no issues as well. All in all I think PCB's (with no smd components installed) are a little more durable that what a lot of people realize.
Update: I need to go buy bigger mailers.
- Ron | samwisekoi
I will pay extra to have mine shipped in a box.
I would not trust a bubble mailer for shipping a PCB ever.
I shipped Enablers with bubble mailers. Even international. Hell I shipped a Teensy break out board to Australia in just an envelope. That one had a sticker on it that it couldn't be machine sorted though. That one arrived with no issues as well. All in all I think PCB's (with no smd components installed) are a little more durable that what a lot of people realize.
Perhaps.
Although you have to keep in mind that enablers and teensies would be a lot smaller. Although if you shipped a whole unbroken sheet of enablers safely, maybe I could trust you on that.
Update: I need to go buy bigger mailers.
- Ron | samwisekoi
I will pay extra to have mine shipped in a box.
I would not trust a bubble mailer for shipping a PCB ever.
I shipped Enablers with bubble mailers. Even international. Hell I shipped a Teensy break out board to Australia in just an envelope. That one had a sticker on it that it couldn't be machine sorted though. That one arrived with no issues as well. All in all I think PCB's (with no smd components installed) are a little more durable that what a lot of people realize.
Perhaps.
Although you have to keep in mind that enablers and teensies would be a lot smaller. Although if you shipped a whole unbroken sheet of enablers safely, maybe I could trust you on that.
I've sent JD40 PCBs to people in bubble mailers before, with no breakages. Then I've sent steel switch plates the same way which arrived bent to hell. I guess it just depends on the carrier, and how they are feeling that day.
Just got a tracking notice for something. All things considered I think it's this board (?)
Glad I have a teensy for it. Guess I'll have to acquire another for the upcoming SD60, too. At least I have switches ready & waiting!
Yup. jdcarpe, CPTBadAss, AKMalamute, Thechemist, and pharaoh all went out USPS Priority Mail today. That is all of the CONUS addresses I believe I have.
Yup. jdcarpe, CPTBadAss, AKMalamute, Thechemist, and pharaoh all went out USPS Priority Mail today. That is all of the CONUS addresses I believe I have.
Oh man am I excited!!!! Thank you samwisekoi and jdcarpe for all your wonderful work. Now to make sure I don't mess this PCB up like I did with my JD40.
What are the transistors for?
Yup. jdcarpe, CPTBadAss, AKMalamute, Thechemist, and pharaoh all went out USPS Priority Mail today. That is all of the CONUS addresses I believe I have.
Oh man am I excited!!!! Thank you samwisekoi and jdcarpe for all your wonderful work. Now to make sure I don't mess this PCB up like I did with my JD40.
Yours is coming to me first, though. I was going to solder the diodes, Teensy, and resistors/transistor for you, leaving only switches and LEDs. But I can send it to you bare, if you want... :)
Yup. jdcarpe, CPTBadAss, AKMalamute, Thechemist, and pharaoh all went out USPS Priority Mail today. That is all of the CONUS addresses I believe I have.
Oh man am I excited!!!! Thank you samwisekoi and jdcarpe for all your wonderful work. Now to make sure I don't mess this PCB up like I did with my JD40.
Yours is coming to me first, though. I was going to solder the diodes, Teensy, and resistors/transistor for you, leaving only switches and LEDs. But I can send it to you bare, if you want... :)
:eek: IT HAS ARRIVED! :eek:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/N9NVLUe.jpg)
*breathing intensifies*
Good to see the boards made it. Recipients: what do you think about that packaging for international shipping?
The LEDs are all on a single circuit, controlled by PWM pin D7. As far as I can tell, the current JD45-compatible version (20150113 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62641.msg1593093#msg1593093)) of Easy_Keymap doesn't have backlighting control enabled at all, so if you add LEDs, they all will be on at a medium light level. There is no way to have the LEDs chase keystrokes, at least not by design.
I did not put a CAPS LED circuit in because I don't know where you are going to put your Caps Lock key. So if you want a CAPS LED, then some clever wiring and firmware will be required. Assigning the CAPS function to D7 would turn any LEDs on, and then you could populate whatever LED position you want to be your Caps Lock LED. If you are going to use an unassigned pin for the CAPS LED circuit, then FYI, I am planning to use F7 for CAPS on the SD-60, which will be pin-compatible with the JD45.
Again, recipients, please let me know what you think about the packaging. Specifically if you think it would be suitable for international shipments.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
I think the packaging would work for international recipients, but one thing I think should be done would be to secure the board to one side of the cardboard to prevent sliding as mine slid somewhat and ended up poking through the tape on one side.
Recipients: what do you think about that packaging for international shipping?
JD, just asking since you kindly directed me here.
Do you think you can build this much lower? That should be a help to people who don't use wrist rests, and it will take up less space.
Out of curiosity, what is the projected timeline for this keyboard? I'm eager to purchase one or help out in another round of prototyping (I'm a maker at heart so I'd like to be able to help if I can).
Has there been discussion with bunny regarding a group buy or availability through ctrl alt?
JD, just asking since you kindly directed me here.
Do you think you can build this much lower? That should be a help to people who don't use wrist rests, and it will take up less space.
If anyone else was unfamiliar with the Swill Case, his site is here:
http://swillkb.com/
and the GH thread is here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51872.msg1144912#msg1144912
Ron, where did you get those caps you're using on your JD40? Those are awesome!
EDIT: pretty sure I figured it out :'(
So I don't know that much about LEDs or the like, but I've about half-wired mine, and have LEDs in the switches that are attached.
In order to see if there were any obvious problems with the LED behavior, I plugged it in, as is, and have programmed it. The switches that are attached send keystrokes as expected but only one LED lights up. Of the dozen or more on the board (closer to two dozen) only the right alt lights up.
Now, there is actually a drop-down choice for LEDs, and I think it was set to FnLock (I have locking function layers but that's for 2 & 3 and those don't have switches yet) Should I rebuild the firmware with it set to unassigned? Have I screwed everything up?
edit w/solution: I guess LEDs work backwards from diodes? I used a multimeter to test where to put the legs, and found that with the short leg touching ground, live probe touching the long leg, I'd still get nothing but the energy would light up the LED, a little. But not going the other way.
I further assumed that, like diodes, you put the place that needed ground, into the square hole. Now it seems I've got twenty-some LEDs, clipped into place, that are backwards.
...this is why I don't normally try to mess with these things.
I ordered the IC socket, resistors, and transistor yesterday. As soon as they arrive, I'll be able to build mine! :D
Note: I attempted to use SIP sockets instead of the IC socket to mount the Teensy, since they have the same pin pitch. Fail. Ended up desoldering the SIP sockets.
Ron, you said that to install the Teensy, you first installed the socket, then placed pins in the socket holes, then placed the Teensy over that and soldered. How did you keep the solder from flowing through to the socket connectors? Just use very little solder at first?
I ordered the IC socket, resistors, and transistor yesterday. As soon as they arrive, I'll be able to build mine! :D
Note: I attempted to use SIP sockets instead of the IC socket to mount the Teensy, since they have the same pin pitch. Fail. Ended up desoldering the SIP sockets.
Ron, you said that to install the Teensy, you first installed the socket, then placed pins in the socket holes, then placed the Teensy over that and soldered. How did you keep the solder from flowing through to the socket connectors? Just use very little solder at first?
I put the leads in place like a little picket fence, and then put a tiny drop of solder on a couple of leads about 1/4" up. That way the Teensy was held up in the air during the soldering process.
Once everything was soldered, I pulled the Teensy back out of the socket and then trimmed the leads flush on top and to length on the bottom.
Does that make sense?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Any progress on this?
Big announcement coming soon...
#hype
Damn, you guessed it already. :(Big announcement coming soon...
#hype
JD45 now with brown switches
Damn, you guessed it already. :(Big announcement coming soon...
#hype
JD45 now with brown switches
;)
Big announcement coming soon...
#hype
Unf. Will that sessy case work with the prototype PCBs you've sent out JD? Or will we have to re-build and purchase this kit?
I'm assuming the matrix will change?
The bottom layout really does this for me, will there be LED support?
Were there any prototype PCB's made for the first model?Yes, we had some prototypes made, but they were all sold to fund the prototype run (since it's very expensive, relatively, to have only 1-2 produced).
GRRRRRRRR! Several months ago, when I first saw the design concept for the JD45 layout, I thought this was a nice-looking board with some features that I really appreciated, but I never considered getting one. Since then, I've had my own journey of discovery regarding keyboard layouts and found that I can be effective at work with a small keyboard. I'm planning on getting a Pok3r but I don't know when it will become available and I'm open to buying a custom board if the right one becomes available before the Pok3r. So, when I saw this thread pop up again, I took another look. The JD45 is sooo close to the layout I designed for what I consider my ideal keyboard, that I was ready to commit to this. Then I realized there were no ****ing dedicated number keys. This could have been my new board. If I didn't have to use numbers so much for work and gaming, I would be finding a way to buy one, maybe two, of these. It stings that one design choice prevents me from getting a board that is so close to ideal for me and has the added benefit of someone else doing all the "heavy lifting" of design and manufacturing.
GRRRRRRRR! Several months ago, when I first saw the design concept for the JD45 layout, I thought this was a nice-looking board with some features that I really appreciated, but I never considered getting one. Since then, I've had my own journey of discovery regarding keyboard layouts and found that I can be effective at work with a small keyboard. I'm planning on getting a Pok3r but I don't know when it will become available and I'm open to buying a custom board if the right one becomes available before the Pok3r. So, when I saw this thread pop up again, I took another look. The JD45 is sooo close to the layout I designed for what I consider my ideal keyboard, that I was ready to commit to this. Then I realized there were no ****ing dedicated number keys. This could have been my new board. If I didn't have to use numbers so much for work and gaming, I would be finding a way to buy one, maybe two, of these. It stings that one design choice prevents me from getting a board that is so close to ideal for me and has the added benefit of someone else doing all the "heavy lifting" of design and manufacturing.
If you want a number row, sounds like you want a 60%, no?
Just finished up my prototype build!
Ignore the bottom row...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UGGRB5K.jpg)
Potato picture calls for filters.
Just finished up my prototype build!Very nice! Be sure to cross post that to https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53617.0 :)
Ignore the bottom row...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UGGRB5K.jpg)
Potato picture calls for filters.
Interested to see some other angles, as well.
Let me just tease you guys a little with another render from Wilba:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kmEWCtX.jpg)
Let me just tease you guys a little with another render from Wilba:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kmEWCtX.jpg)
Moar modifiers!
This is cool.Let me just tease you guys a little with another render from Wilba:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kmEWCtX.jpg)
Moar modifiers!
Okay, okay. The JD45 is all about options, of course.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/A7716yX.jpg)
Let me just tease you guys a little with another render from Wilba:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kmEWCtX.jpg)
Let me just tease you guys a little with another render from Wilba:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kmEWCtX.jpg)
I had to talk JD out of his original idea... :D
(Attachment Link)
Let me just tease you guys a little with another render from Wilba:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kmEWCtX.jpg)
Here is my JD45 teaser:I'm jealous. I need to get myself a case!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SG5f5orh.jpg)
Hopefully it goes well. 13 hour print. ;D
Here is my JD45 teaser:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SG5f5orh.jpg)
Hopefully it goes well. 13 hour print. ;D
Here is my JD45 teaser:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SG5f5orh.jpg)
Hopefully it goes well. 13 hour print. ;D
Wait, wheres the Twitch link? O=
We need a livestream of this historic event! :)
I'm taking a time lapse video. ;) This is my biggest print yet so I'm hoping it goes well.
It's done! I'm happy with the result. There are a couple of issue spots but I need to spend some time with a file to clean it up. I still have to splice together the time lapse.That came out beautiful, excellent work, especially for a print that big.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8yDD5q7h.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x8aDJrYh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qrWnFFMh.jpg)
It's done! I'm happy with the result. There are a couple of issue spots but I need to spend some time with a file to clean it up. I still have to splice together the time lapse.
This is Wilbas model that I printed for jdcarpe.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8yDD5q7h.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x8aDJrYh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qrWnFFMh.jpg)
It's done! I'm happy with the result. There are a couple of issue spots but I need to spend some time with a file to clean it up. I still have to splice together the time lapse.
This is Wilbas model that I printed for jdcarpe.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8yDD5q7h.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x8aDJrYh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qrWnFFMh.jpg)
FN: ESC F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 F12
NUM: ESC 1! 2@ 3# 4$ 5% 6^ 7& 8* 9( 0) -_ =+
NORM: ESC Q W E R T Y U I O P [{ ]}
Samwisekoi here, back in from the cold.(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/70523d82f2cb5e4abc0a504b6493d65b.jpg)
Of all of the sub-60 layouts I've tried, I have to say that the JD45 is the most useful on a day-to-day basis. I like my JD40 (and even had custom WASD keycaps printed for it), but the JD45 adds just enough additional functionality for daily use.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SZtqnZQ.jpg)
Samwisekoi's JD45. That bottom row "SHIFT" keycap has been replaced by a blank from SP.
I've moved to using BOTH of the split spacebar keycaps as SPACE, and use the extra 1.25 keys on the bottom row for backspace and delete.
Top row is ESC, Q, W , E, R, T, Y... or via NUMLOCK, ESC, 1!, 2@, 3#, 4$, 5%, 6^..., or via FN ESC, F1, F2, F3...
Anyhow, it works very well as a layout, but I too struggle with a case. And keycaps. I have a set of Nuclear Data Greens on it now, and I think they are just too tall. I think the board would be better suited with DSA keycaps, but I don't have a set that includes a 1x FN, two 1.25x specials, and two 1.75x blanks. So it is SA/NDG for now.
For those (like me) who forget where the "&" symbol is hidden, I am considering a macro key that would type the following hint sheet into a text editor:Code: [Select]FN: ESC F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 F12
NUM: ESC 1! 2@ 3# 4$ 5% 6^ 7& 8* 9( 0) -_ =+
NORM: ESC Q W E R T Y U I O P [{ ]}
And maybe another hint sheet for the bottom row assignments.
The new case/PCB combo looks nice. I am still going to stay with through-hole for my designs, but for this board, the Teensy USB connection is .125" of pure annoyance. With a USB cable attached, it makes for a very tall wedge, even with the front flat to the desktop.
My project list has grown too long, so I have recently taken the decision to do no more parallel projects, and instead finish all of my open projects one at a time to clear the great pile of unfinished things in my office/lab. I recently finished a custom small form-factor high-speed rendering PC called "Violet Femme" for my wife, that I will probably post a build log somewhere. Currently on my plate is my refurbishment/re-engineering of a Model F-122 with a very custom "Super Soarer" protocol converter PCB. I'll post that build log here on GeekHack, probably starting later today.
And after that will be a case for the v.1 proto JD45. That I will post here!
Very best to you all,
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
It's done! I'm happy with the result. There are a couple of issue spots but I need to spend some time with a file to clean it up. I still have to splice together the time lapse.
This is Wilbas model that I printed for jdcarpe.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8yDD5q7h.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x8aDJrYh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qrWnFFMh.jpg)
Is it abs or pla? If it's abs you should use some acetone to smooth the surface for a different look.
This may no longer be needed for many, but I took a 3D-print design I did for the JD40, and adapted it to the Rev.1 JD45.
This will attach and support the 3.00" x 10.00" JD45 Rev.1 PCB.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KresrLm.png)
Samwisekoi JD45 Rev.1 Open Wedge Case Design
I am having a first run made by Shapeways. Once I make sure it works, I'll provide the .STL file to whomever wants it and will make it available to be printed for you at Shapeways.com. In white or black it is $55 ($50 without the PCB support braces.) I will probably also make a matching 4x4 tiny numpad case for the GH-36.
Here is what this design looks like on a GH-36, albeit in a very different size and shape.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/f6dzf6k.jpg)
Samwisekoi GH-36 Open Wedge Case
Cheers,
- Ron | samwisekoi
This may no longer be needed for many, but I took a 3D-print design I did for the JD40, and adapted it to the Rev.1 JD45.
This will attach and support the 3.00" x 10.00" JD45 Rev.1 PCB.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KresrLm.png)
Samwisekoi JD45 Rev.1 Open Wedge Case Design
I am having a first run made by Shapeways. Once I make sure it works, I'll provide the .STL file to whomever wants it and will make it available to be printed for you at Shapeways.com. In white or black it is $55 ($50 without the PCB support braces.) I will probably also make a matching 4x4 tiny numpad case for the GH-36.
Cheers,
- Ron | samwisekoi
Will this case work for the prototype JD45?
This may no longer be needed for many, but I took a 3D-print design I did for the JD40, and adapted it to the Rev.1 JD45.
This will attach and support the 3.00" x 10.00" JD45 Rev.1 PCB.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KresrLm.png)
Samwisekoi JD45 Rev.1 Open Wedge Case Design
I am having a first run made by Shapeways. Once I make sure it works, I'll provide the .STL file to whomever wants it and will make it available to be printed for you at Shapeways.com. In white or black it is $55 ($50 without the PCB support braces.) I will probably also make a matching 4x4 tiny numpad case for the GH-36.
Cheers,
- Ron | samwisekoi
Will this case work for the prototype JD45?
Yes. It was designed specifically for the JD45 prototype.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SZtqnZQ.jpg)
JD45 Prototype without a case.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Samwisekoi here, back in from the cold.
Of all of the sub-60 layouts I've tried, I have to say that the JD45 is the most useful on a day-to-day basis. I like my JD40 (and even had custom WASD keycaps printed for it), but the JD45 adds just enough additional functionality for daily use.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SZtqnZQ.jpg)
Samwisekoi's JD45. That bottom row "SHIFT" keycap has been replaced by a blank from SP.
I've moved to using BOTH of the split spacebar keycaps as SPACE, and use the extra 1.25 keys on the bottom row for backspace and delete.
Top row is ESC, Q, W , E, R, T, Y... or via NUMLOCK, ESC, 1!, 2@, 3#, 4$, 5%, 6^..., or via FN ESC, F1, F2, F3...
Anyhow, it works very well as a layout, but I too struggle with a case. And keycaps. I have a set of Nuclear Data Greens on it now, and I think they are just too tall. I think the board would be better suited with DSA keycaps, but I don't have a set that includes a 1x FN, two 1.25x specials, and two 1.75x blanks. So it is SA/NDG for now.
For those (like me) who forget where the "&" symbol is hidden, I am considering a macro key that would type the following hint sheet into a text editor:Code: [Select]FN: ESC F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 F12
NUM: ESC 1! 2@ 3# 4$ 5% 6^ 7& 8* 9( 0) -_ =+
NORM: ESC Q W E R T Y U I O P [{ ]}
And maybe another hint sheet for the bottom row assignments.
The new case/PCB combo looks nice. I am still going to stay with through-hole for my designs, but for this board, the Teensy USB connection is .125" of pure annoyance. With a USB cable attached, it makes for a very tall wedge, even with the front flat to the desktop.
My project list has grown too long, so I have recently taken the decision to do no more parallel projects, and instead finish all of my open projects one at a time to clear the great pile of unfinished things in my office/lab. I recently finished a custom small form-factor high-speed rendering PC called "Violet Femme" for my wife, that I will probably post a build log somewhere. Currently on my plate is my refurbishment/re-engineering of a Model F-122 with a very custom "Super Soarer" protocol converter PCB. I'll post that build log here on GeekHack, probably starting later today.
And after that will be a case for the v.1 proto JD45. That I will post here!
Very best to you all,
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
TAB, Q, W, E, R, T, Y, U, I, O, p, [{, ]}
`~, 1!, 2@, 3#, 4$, 5%, 6^, 7&, 8*, 9(, 0), -_, +=
ESC, F1, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8, F9, F10, F11, F12
Yes, a pad of Post-Its doesn't quite cut it.
Also, some upgrades to the macros:
M2:Code: [Select]TAB, Q, W, E, R, T, Y, U, I, O, p, [{, ]}
`~, 1!, 2@, 3#, 4$, 5%, 6^, 7&, 8*, 9(, 0), -_, +=
ESC, F1, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8, F9, F10, F11, F12
- Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)
Yes, a pad of Post-Its doesn't quite cut it.
Also, some upgrades to the macros:
M2:Code: [Select]TAB, Q, W, E, R, T, Y, U, I, O, p, [{, ]}
`~, 1!, 2@, 3#, 4$, 5%, 6^, 7&, 8*, 9(, 0), -_, +=
ESC, F1, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8, F9, F10, F11, F12
- Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)
OMG, this is.... brilliant. I always forget what I have mapped to the various FN layers. The keyboard should be able to tell you what it's map is. Why have I never thought of that before? I think I'm going to add this so it can be automatic, so you don't have to update macros manually. Cool?
Sign me up for one pcb pls ;)
Sign me up for one pcb pls ;)
Wilba, I am not personally using the JD45, but I think your budget options are very beautiful and look excellent. Would you be able to offer the information (or stl files or whatever they're called) to other people to learn from? I am dreaming that someone will take your ideas and make them into a case for the GH36. Samwisekoi's efforts are heroic, but I think your casings are significantly better value and more attractive than his design.
Wilba, I am not personally using the JD45, but I think your budget options are very beautiful and look excellent. Would you be able to offer the information (or stl files or whatever they're called) to other people to learn from? I am dreaming that someone will take your ideas and make them into a case for the GH36. Samwisekoi's efforts are heroic, but I think your casings are significantly better value and more attractive than his design.
A prototype of the milled aluminium case is being made now, and soon I will order some of the "new" prototype PCBs with the built-in ATmega32U4.
The plan is, I order 5-10 PCBs, solder the SMD parts (ATmega32U4, diodes, resistors, etc.), make sure they work, and then sell the spares at cost.
But a prototype PCB without a case is a bit hard to sell... so...
Here are some renders of an alternate case. It's similar in style to JD40 and Planck cases. It uses a brushed stainless steel switch plate and bottom plate, and a 10mm spacer made of wood or acrylic. You could call this the "budget" option, since it will be a lot cheaper than a milled aluminium case, and available at the same time as the prototype PCBs, not some far away group buy. As a very rough estimate, the price might be around $60 total for the case, and around $40 for the SMD assembled PCB (i.e. not inc. switches).
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
The main reason to show it off now is to see if anyone would be interested in getting one of the JD45 prototype PCBs if they could get one of these cases.
Based on interest, I can then decide how many prototype PCBs to order, and how many of these cases to get made, and get a better idea of actual cost.
There will be at most 7 PCBs available (since I won't order more than 10 prototypes, JD wants 2, and I'll keep 1).
This is not a group buy, and no money will be collected before there are parts to ship.
Updated renders of the "budget case" design which will be available with the prototype PCBs (see my previous posts).
I tweaked the outer dimensions, refined the USB cutout, and added extra screws.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Any renders of the acrylic spacer? Have you guys decided whether you're going to offer both, or just wood?
Any renders of the acrylic spacer? Have you guys decided whether you're going to offer both, or just wood?
Here's a render with a translucent acrylic spacer. The actual spacer may be less translucent than this, more "white".
I have to get quotes on both materials and see if I can offer both.
(Attachment Link)
What material is that?
What material is that?
Sorry, I missed that question. It is 3D-printed plastic. Shapeways calls it "Strong & Flexible Plastic" (https://www.shapeways.com/materials/strong-and-flexible-plastic). Here it is with a JD45 Prototype keyboard installed. Unicomp "Model M" for scale. (Also to show the design inspiration!) My goal was a very tiny version of the classic IBM Model M case shape.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8a01uym.jpg)
really nice ........... :thumb:
JD45 Prototype Case Edge View. Samwisekoi 2015.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MTzCKgv.jpg)
JD45 Prototype Case Front View. Samwisekoi 2015.
I think I'd like this case a tad taller in back, but it looks and feels good. The internal support rails work to keep the PCB rigid during typing. Send me a PM if you want to print or buy one yourself. It fits a 3.00" x 10.00" PCB, and should fit or be easy to modify to fit the prod boards as well.
Many thanks to GH'er RabRhee and MP at SP for the Retro DSA keycaps I was missing for this build!
- Ron | samwisekoi
This would be perfect for my first custom board. So cool and I'm blown away by JDCarpe's past work. I just want to be sure - we are still waiting for availability?
Thanks!
This would be perfect for my first custom board. So cool and I'm blown away by JDCarpe's past work. I just want to be sure - we are still waiting for availability?
Thanks!
Just an FYI Jdcarpe is currently away on a cruise and he would probably be the one to answer this question. He should be back in around a week.
is everyone busy preparing X'mas? this thread appears to be a bit too quiet...
just like to appreciate JD's offer on a JD45: this is THE ONLY keyboard that i use at work and home now.
and also to show off my Alder case :p
Oh my, I want that. That case is beautiful.
Very nice work on the case for your prototype!
Any luck on the BT front yet?
Oh my, I want that. That case is beautiful.
I would like to second that. A great way to do the usb cutout as well!
after some desoldering and cleaning up, now my JD45 is happily typing via BT :) ;) :D ;D
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
so i eventually figure out the culprit:
on the PCB, D3 and D5 of the controller were shorted during soldering, so when ever D3 is used, D5 gets messed. =) and D3 happens to be the TX pin for UART.
(Attachment Link)
after some desoldering and cleaning up, now my JD45 is happily typing via BT :) ;) :D ;D
:-[ Sorry, my bad.
Glad you got it all working, though!
:-[ Sorry, my bad.
Glad you got it all working, though!
oh no, there is nothing wrong with the PCB, the two pins gets shorted when the controller was soldered.
I don't have the right tool, using a tiny knife could not get the two pins separated, so i just desoldered the chip, clean it a bit, and then soldered it back, and it just works =)
so the PCB is still good :thumb:
I was the one who soldered the SMD components... I didn't see that bridge, or I would have fixed it myself.
FWIW most bridges like this can be fixed with copper braid (aka. desoldering wick).
I'm hoping as soon as Bunny Lake can find some breathing room that we can get a GB going for them. He's been a busy man lately.
Just a little something something I printed. :cool:
Design courtesy of WilbaShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/0LR1YRP.jpg)
Full album:
http://imgur.com/a/QMROF
Just a little something something I printed. :cool:
Design courtesy of WilbaShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/0LR1YRP.jpg)
Full album:
http://imgur.com/a/QMROF
That's awesome! How long was the printing time for that?
Just a little something something I printed. :cool:
Design courtesy of WilbaShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/0LR1YRP.jpg)
Full album:
http://imgur.com/a/QMROF
Just a little something something I printed. :cool:
Design courtesy of WilbaShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/0LR1YRP.jpg)
Full album:
http://imgur.com/a/QMROF
That's awesome! How long was the printing time for that?
Thanks! I printed it at an unnecessarily high res of 0.1mm per layer(0.35mm nozzle) and it took 20 hours and 15 minutes to complete.
Pardon me if I'm late to the party, but the fact that the JD45 is happening means there won't be anymore JD40's right? What ever happened to the SmallFry gb as well?Actually, there are plans for a redesigned JD40 to be released concurrently with the JD45.
What ever happened to the SmallFry gb as well?
I do a little dance in my head when there's new posts in this thread.
Just to let everyone know, I know a couple of ICs and mini GBs have popped up for other 40% designs, and that's fine.
BIG THINGS ARE CLOSE AT HAND FOR THIS PROJECT!!
You guys like CNC anodized alu cases? Matching plates? Fully assembled keyboards? DIY kits? All this is coming very soon!
How can this be, after a year in development, JD? Did you partner with a highly respected keyboard manufacturer, while keeping the integrity of a custom design?
All will be revealed very soon, my loyal followers. :D
Okay, so let's say I tried to follow the thread, but, because of its length, got lost. Just an example.
What's the status of this buy? My impression was that it was over and no longer taking orders, right? Just that the current orders have yet to be developed 100%?
Okay, so let's say I tried to follow the thread, but, because of its length, got lost. Just an example.
What's the status of this buy? My impression was that it was over and no longer taking orders, right? Just that the current orders have yet to be developed 100%?
The "buy" was just a release of a few prototype boards. JD will be doing an actual release of the board soon as can be seen in what he posted above.
Just to let everyone know, I know a couple of ICs and mini GBs have popped up for other 40% designs, and that's fine.
BIG THINGS ARE CLOSE AT HAND FOR THIS PROJECT!!
You guys like anodized CNC milled alu cases? Matching plates? Fully assembled keyboards? DIY kits? All this is coming very soon!
How can this be, after a year in development, JD? Did you partner with a highly respected keyboard manufacturer, while keeping the integrity of a custom design?
All will be revealed very soon, my loyal followers. :D
JD your like one of the few people I still trust on here to run a successful keyboard buy but I'll believe it when I see it.
JD your like one of the few people I still trust on here to run a successful keyboard buy but I'll believe it when I see it.
Haha yeah, I agree with you, Ray. I haven't really hyped this in a while, because of the slow progress in getting to a finished product. But it shouldn't be much longer now. Since we have PCB, case, and plate designs already, ramp up to production should be significantly reduced. Of course, due diligence is key to a successful production run, so we won't be rushing anything to market before it is ready. Time from order to manufacturing to fulfillment will hopefully be kept to a minimum.
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
Also, don't be fooled by imposters. Vortex's upcoming 40% is no JD45. You can probably trust them to muck theirs up. :DNow that is impressive, @jdcarpe inspiring so many other 40% boards.
Also, don't be fooled by imposters. Vortex's upcoming 40% is no JD45. You can probably trust them to muck theirs up. :DNow that is impressive, @jdcarpe inspiring so many other 40% boards.
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
Subscribing. But without arrow keys I would probably have a hard time. Maybe an opportunity to try the space fn stuff people have been using.
Subscribing. But without arrow keys I would probably have a hard time. Maybe an opportunity to try the space fn stuff people have been using.
Ya. I am a developer, so I use the arrow keys a lot. I often use them while holding shift to do a selection.Subscribing. But without arrow keys I would probably have a hard time. Maybe an opportunity to try the space fn stuff people have been using.
This is a constant battle that I flip flop on. It is sometimes annoying to hold down another key to use the arrows. One thing I have done is made a very accessible layer switch on the right mod cluster so I can use those without holding down another button, if I am doing heavy use of the arrow keys. Still I like having arrow keys, especially if I am using them as a component of a macro.
"Alright, Mr. Demille. I'm ready for my close-up."Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FwNaBhC.jpg)
"Alright, Mr. Demille. I'm ready for my close-up."Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FwNaBhC.jpg)
"Alright, Mr. Demille. I'm ready for my close-up."Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FwNaBhC.jpg)
"Alright, Mr. Demille. I'm ready for my close-up."Cuuuuuuuuuute!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FwNaBhC.jpg)
"Alright, Mr. Demille. I'm ready for my close-up."That looks really awesome JD.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FwNaBhC.jpg)
"Alright, Mr. Demille. I'm ready for my close-up."Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FwNaBhC.jpg)
"Alright, Mr. Demille. I'm ready for my close-up."Caps with font printed function layer would be awesome.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FwNaBhC.jpg)
Caps with font printed function layer would be awesome.
Caps with font printed function layer would be awesome.
The final versions will have a smaller top legend, with corner placement. And yes, they do have the default function layer printed on the front. :)
Of course, it's fully programmable, but the default layers should work for a start.
Just black for the case and caps as of now?
Caps with font printed function layer would be awesome.
The final versions will have a smaller top legend, with corner placement. And yes, they do have the default function layer printed on the front. :)
Just black for the case and caps as of now?
Black or silver anodized aluminum for the case and plates. Color matched.
Only black with white legends for the caps, which will be included with the assembled keyboard. DIY version assumes you bring your own switches and caps.
Too early to tell the price range?I'm still working out final details, but you guys will know very soon. :)
Any chance at getting just a case?Cases won't be sold separately, but you could always post a [WTB] in Classifieds and try to get one from someone who wanted the PCB and plate only. Not sure why you wouldn't want the PCB and plate, though.
Any chance at getting just a case?Cases won't be sold separately, but you could always post a [WTB] in Classifieds and try to get one from someone who wanted the PCB and plate only. Not sure why you wouldn't want the PCB and plate, though.
I'd actually want a plate / case - mostly because you said there wouldn't be fully customization, so I'd hand wire. Guess it really depends on what you'll do for the PCB firmware, I still might pick up a kit. Thanks!
I'd actually want a plate / case - mostly because you said there wouldn't be fully customization, so I'd hand wire. Guess it really depends on what you'll do for the PCB firmware, I still might pick up a kit. Thanks!
Not sure what you mean by "fully customization", but the PCB supports multiple key layouts, and uses an ATMega32U4 with TMK or EasyAVR firmware, so you can do whatever you want on the firmware side. The PCB also supports switch LEDs (all LEDs in parallel, not individually controlled).
Also note there is not enough clearance in the case for a Teensy - there's only 3mm clearance under the PCB - it's very similar to a Tex 60% aluminium case.
"Alright, Mr. Demille. I'm ready for my close-up."Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FwNaBhC.jpg)
"Alright, Mr. Demille. I'm ready for my close-up."Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FwNaBhC.jpg)
i think this board needs a 2 piece case like the one i'm working on :D
I'm game.i think this board needs a 2 piece case like the one i'm working on :D
That would be pretty cool... and very easy for me to adapt the case design to be similar to yours... i.e. make a two-piece wooden case compatible with the PCB/plate.
If you want to do another one-off "JD45" project for "charity", let me know ;D
(I have the mad skillz but no CNC :()
...it's very similar to a Tex 60% aluminium case.
...it's very similar to a Tex 60% aluminium case.
Speaking of TEX...
Everyone should know by now that this final, production PCB was designed by Wilba to my specifications. The case, also, was designed by Wilba along with the PCB, as the two go hand-in-hand. Wilba has been my (mostly silent) partner in making the JD45 what it is today, and for that I owe him huge thanks.
I also want to acknowledge and thank both samwisekoi and Joey Quinn for their contributions to this project, in the form of previous PCB iterations, both through-hole and SMT based.
What I haven't formally announced yet is my manufacturing partner for this project. The production JD45 is being manufactured by none other than TEX in Taiwan! I am extremely proud to be partnered with TEX to bring this project to the community. Many thanks to Justin and everyone at TEX for helping make this dream project of mine a reality.
I'd actually want a plate / case - mostly because you said there wouldn't be fully customization, so I'd hand wire. Guess it really depends on what you'll do for the PCB firmware, I still might pick up a kit. Thanks!
Not sure what you mean by "fully customization", but the PCB supports multiple key layouts, and uses an ATMega32U4 with TMK or EasyAVR firmware, so you can do whatever you want on the firmware side. The PCB also supports switch LEDs (all LEDs in parallel, not individually controlled).
Also note there is not enough clearance in the case for a Teensy - there's only 3mm clearance under the PCB - it's very similar to a Tex 60% aluminium case.
Wilba has been my (mostly silent) partner in making the JD45 what it is today, and for that I owe him huge thanks.
:))Wilba has been my (mostly silent) partner in making the JD45 what it is today, and for that I owe him huge thanks.
(Attachment Link)
...it's very similar to a Tex 60% aluminium case.
Speaking of TEX...
Everyone should know by now that this final, production PCB was designed by Wilba to my specifications. The case, also, was designed by Wilba along with the PCB, as the two go hand-in-hand. Wilba has been my (mostly silent) partner in making the JD45 what it is today, and for that I owe him huge thanks.
I also want to acknowledge and thank both samwisekoi and Joey Quinn for their contributions to this project, in the form of previous PCB iterations, both through-hole and SMT based.
What I haven't formally announced yet is my manufacturing partner for this project. The production JD45 is being manufactured by none other than TEX in Taiwan! I am extremely proud to be partnered with TEX to bring this project to the community. Many thanks to Justin and everyone at TEX for helping make this dream project of mine a reality.
Okay, so...pricing. I know everyone is curious what the price will be for the JD45 keyboard. I think I finally have it nailed down.
There are several options you can choose from in this initial group buy. The featured product will be a completely assembled keyboard, to include CNC milled anodized aluminum case, in either black or silver color; completely programmable PCB with backlight support, with all electronics pre-soldered at the factory; CNC milled anodized aluminum switch plate (standard layout), color-matched to case; choice of Cherry MX switches (brown, blue, black, or red); and printed black ABS keycaps with front-printed function layer legends. This package is priced at $219.99.
As this project started with a hobbyist focus, there is also a DIY option available. This package includes the alu case, pre-soldered PCB, and either Alps (standard layout) or MX (universal) switch plate only. This package assumes that people will want to bring their own switches and keycaps. This package option reduces by $40 the price of the standard package.
The CNC milled anodized aluminum case is available in two versions. The standard version is a low profile, rectangular case, very similar in design to a TEX 60% alu case with front lip. Optionally, there is a higher walled case with the corners blocked, to give it a similar visual appreal as the popular HHKB. This case option adds $20 to the package price.
I will be shipping all orders for the initial group buy personally. Actual shipping cost for shipping to your location will be added to your order.
Gonna have to see pics of the higher case, I think it will look great, and I think I will have a hard time choosing.. Maybe I need two :))
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
That's it, thanks Hoffman. The low profile case comes even with the switch plate, while the higher walled case comes even with the bottom of the keycap skirt.Gonna have to see pics of the higher case, I think it will look great, and I think I will have a hard time choosing.. Maybe I need two :))"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
Gonna have to see pics of the higher case, I think it will look great, and I think I will have a hard time choosing.. Maybe I need two :))"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
what a nice keyboard!
any chance to add an option of PCB and plate only?
i've been thinking about making a JD45 using my own case and switches.
Glad to see this coming to life. I'll have to live vicariously through all the pictures I'm sure will be posted when people start getting these.
...it's very similar to a Tex 60% aluminium case.
Speaking of TEX...
Everyone should know by now that this final, production PCB was designed by Wilba to my specifications. The case, also, was designed by Wilba along with the PCB, as the two go hand-in-hand. Wilba has been my (mostly silent) partner in making the JD45 what it is today, and for that I owe him huge thanks.
I also want to acknowledge and thank both samwisekoi and Joey Quinn for their contributions to this project, in the form of previous PCB iterations, both through-hole and SMT based.
What I haven't formally announced yet is my manufacturing partner for this project. The production JD45 is being manufactured by none other than TEX in Taiwan! I am extremely proud to be partnered with TEX to bring this project to the community. Many thanks to Justin and everyone at TEX for helping make this dream project of mine a reality.
where do we order??I am having a web site built to take the orders, and it should go live very soon. Once the group buy opens, I will be accepting orders for 30 days. I will post the order link here on GH, as well as on most of the usual social media.
I wonder what the glorious retro grey keycaps were in the original Twitter sneak peek and if it's possible to get them somewhere.
Yes, it's no coincidence that the Hack'd By Geeks set includes compatibility with the JD45 keyboard. :)
Maybe I should look into offering another round of the set? Only problem is that SA is so backed up at SP that it would be months before production would begin.
Yes, it's no coincidence that the Hack'd By Geeks set includes compatibility with the JD45 keyboard. :)
Maybe I should look into offering another round of the set? Only problem is that SA is so backed up at SP that it would be months before production would begin.
Better months than never? And at least you would be on the schedule. I do not see their queue decreasing in size anytime soon.
Agreed. I am definitely considering running another round with the same kit setup, especially since full compatibility with the JD45 is there. I will look into it and let you guys know.Yes, it's no coincidence that the Hack'd By Geeks set includes compatibility with the JD45 keyboard. :)
Maybe I should look into offering another round of the set? Only problem is that SA is so backed up at SP that it would be months before production would begin.
Better months than never? And at least you would be on the schedule. I do not see their queue decreasing in size anytime soon.
...it's very similar to a Tex 60% aluminium case.
Speaking of TEX...
Everyone should know by now that this final, production PCB was designed by Wilba to my specifications. The case, also, was designed by Wilba along with the PCB, as the two go hand-in-hand. Wilba has been my (mostly silent) partner in making the JD45 what it is today, and for that I owe him huge thanks.
I also want to acknowledge and thank both samwisekoi and Joey Quinn for their contributions to this project, in the form of previous PCB iterations, both through-hole and SMT based.
What I haven't formally announced yet is my manufacturing partner for this project. The production JD45 is being manufactured by none other than TEX in Taiwan! I am extremely proud to be partnered with TEX to bring this project to the community. Many thanks to Justin and everyone at TEX for helping make this dream project of mine a reality.
Give all the boys a hand!
Awww, thanks buddy. :)Give all the boys a hand!
If you all will allow me one more...
I want to give a huge THANK YOU to swill for building the ordering web page for me. His tireless efforts have produced a professional design, which is easy to navigate, and integrates orders, shipping, etc.
swill is a beast, and worked non-stop to make this happen in a very short timeframe. Anyone looking for a professional, courteous, and attentive designer should look no further than swill for all your web design needs.
I really like this keyboard, but can't see myself buying a low profile board that's not also bt enabled.I'm no expert here but I think the answer to everything is no.
So my questions are:
what bt module are you using?
how big a battery can you fit into this case?
how long will the battery last?
I really like this keyboard, but can't see myself buying a low profile board that's not also bt enabled.
So my questions are:
what bt module are you using?
how big a battery can you fit into this case?
how long will the battery last?
You might PM member justinyhuang, as he is the one who got the BT module (BlueSmirf?) working with his JD45 prototype PCB.
I can't answer as to what battery will fit in the case, as I haven't attempted to add BT to the production sample case yet.
No problem at all. He might see the question in this thread. :)
You might PM member justinyhuang, as he is the one who got the BT module (BlueSmirf?) working with his JD45 prototype PCB.
I can't answer as to what battery will fit in the case, as I haven't attempted to add BT to the production sample case yet.
Will do... I thought I was replying to his post... First post ever on Geek Hack...
No problem at all. He might see the question in this thread. :)
You might PM member justinyhuang, as he is the one who got the BT module (BlueSmirf?) working with his JD45 prototype PCB.
I can't answer as to what battery will fit in the case, as I haven't attempted to add BT to the production sample case yet.
Will do... I thought I was replying to his post... First post ever on Geek Hack...
And welcome to Geekhack!
OK, I'm still new to this. I want to use a 6.25u space bar. What are my options for spacing on the bottom row?Very close, actually! There are a few ways you can move around the different sizes on the bottom row, but I do it like this:
I think it is: 1.25 - 1.00 - 1.00 - 6.25 - 1.00 - 1.00 - 1.50
But I'm not sure. I appreciate any help.
OK, I'm still new to this. I want to use a 6.25u space bar. What are my options for spacing on the bottom row?Very close, actually! There are a few ways you can move around the different sizes on the bottom row, but I do it like this:
I think it is: 1.25 - 1.00 - 1.00 - 6.25 - 1.00 - 1.00 - 1.50
But I'm not sure. I appreciate any help.
1.25-1.00-1.00-6.25-1.25-1.00-1.25
Yes, however, I think I misspoke earlier. Your layout with the 1.50u on the right should work, too..OK, I'm still new to this. I want to use a 6.25u space bar. What are my options for spacing on the bottom row?Very close, actually! There are a few ways you can move around the different sizes on the bottom row, but I do it like this:
I think it is: 1.25 - 1.00 - 1.00 - 6.25 - 1.00 - 1.00 - 1.50
But I'm not sure. I appreciate any help.
1.25-1.00-1.00-6.25-1.25-1.00-1.25
Thanks for the replay, that helps clear things up. Any chance I could do:
1.25-1.00-1.00-6.25-1.00-1.25-1.25?
I like having the 1u flank the spacebar symmetrically.
+1Pre-order here: http://jd45.carpekeyboards.com
I want one!
"I hear the train a comin'
It's rolling round the bend"Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3A6511K.jpg)
HYPE TRAIN
For those who have interests on a Bluetooth JD45, there is a working one here :D
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/49tnkv/a_bluetooth_jd45/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/49tnkv/a_bluetooth_jd45/)
Read through the pre-orders... does the DIY ALPS kit come with keycaps and/or stabilizers, perchance?I'd also appreciate an answer to this.
Sorry, my focus has been on the group buy thread and not this older thread. I'll try to get the info merged there, although I believe the answer is already found in the FAQ in the second post of the GB thread.Read through the pre-orders... does the DIY ALPS kit come with keycaps and/or stabilizers, perchance?I'd also appreciate an answer to this.
Sorry, my focus has been on the group buy thread and not this older thread. I'll try to get the info merged there, although I believe the answer is already found in the FAQ in the second post of the GB thread.Read through the pre-orders... does the DIY ALPS kit come with keycaps and/or stabilizers, perchance?I'd also appreciate an answer to this.
All DIY kits in the pre-order group buy include a CNC milled alu case, a PCB, and a color-matched alu switch plate. No switches or keycaps are included, since it is assumed that people who assemble their own keyboard will want to bring their own switches and keycaps.
As stabilizers are completely optional with the JD45, none are included in any package.