Author Topic: Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!  (Read 49003 times)

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Offline o2dazone

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #50 on: Thu, 01 October 2009, 22:11:54 »
Does it add any weight or dampen the sound? Looking forward to seeing your mod to the 'flat' topre board lol

Offline Mental Hobbit

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #51 on: Sun, 17 January 2010, 07:32:35 »
Bump - any new findings after another three months?

Other than the dust, is there any dirt buildup? You know, the brown stuff...

Does anyone with a little Plastidip leftover feel adventurous enough to try this on a Model M spring? I wonder how this would change noise and feel of a buckling spring switch.
Typing on blues.

Offline rdjack21

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #52 on: Sun, 17 January 2010, 11:42:04 »
To be honest I've not been typing on that board lately because I've picked up a few more and wanted to get a feel for my new ones instead. What I really want to do is coat one of my mini Topre boards (MD01B0/HE0100/Sun short type) but really can't do one until it warms up around here.

No dirt build up on the keys just dust I don't type on my keyboards with dirty hands.

Others have done all kinds of things to Model M springs but I'm not sure if they have dipped them. ripster would know though.
Keyboards
Topre Capacitive: Realforce 87U, Realforce 86U, HHKB Pro 2, Topre MD01B0, Topre HE0100, Sun Short Type, OEM NEO CS (x2), NISSHO Electronics KB106DE
Buckling Spring: IBM Model M Space Saver (1291472), Unicomp Customizer x 2
Cherry Brown: Filco FKBN87M/EB, Compaq MX11800
Black Alps: ABS M1
Not so great boards Rare Spring over dome OKI, Sun rack keyboard

Trackballs - Trackman Wheel (3), Trackman marble (2)
Keyboards I still want to get - Happy Hacking Keyboard Pro 2 the White version, Realforce 23U number pad in black and maybe white, μTRON ergo board with Topre switches.
Previously owned - [size=0]SiiG MiniTouch (White Alps), Scorpius M10 (Blue Cherry), IBM Model M13[/size]

Offline JBert

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #53 on: Fri, 22 January 2010, 14:37:33 »
Quote from: Mental Hobbit;151456
Does anyone with a little Plastidip leftover feel adventurous enough to try this on a Model M spring? I wonder how this would change noise and feel of a buckling spring switch.
Yes, I got Ripster into dipping them but the results were poor. He basically dipped half of it, leaving a thin layer of plastic.

It shrinks though when it sets. As a result, it bent the spring, so truly FUBAR.
IBM Model F XT + Soarer's USB Converter || Cherry G80-3000/Clears

The storage list:
IBM Model F AT || Cherry G80-3000/Blues || Compaq MX11800 (Cherry brown, bizarre layout) || IBM KB-8923 (model M-style RD) || G81-3010 Hxx || BTC 5100C || G81-3000 Sxx || Atari keyboard (?)


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Disclaimer: we don\'t help you save money on [strike]keyboards[/strike] hardware, rather we make you feel less bad about your expense.
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Offline Mental Hobbit

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #54 on: Fri, 22 January 2010, 15:27:40 »
Thanks rdjack21 and JBert!

Actually I just found a new, revolutionary and sophisticated method to silence my ultra-springy 1397000: A snippet of an ordinary thin rubber band, simply dropped in the spring, seems to work well.
Typing on blues.

Offline rdjack21

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #55 on: Fri, 22 January 2010, 16:37:52 »
Quote from: Mental Hobbit;153085
Thanks rdjack21 and JBert!

Actually I just found a new, revolutionary and sophisticated method to silence my ultra-springy 1397000: A snippet of an ordinary thin rubber band, simply dropped in the spring, seems to work well.


Now that is interesting I may even have to try that on my Space Saver and see how it works out.
Keyboards
Topre Capacitive: Realforce 87U, Realforce 86U, HHKB Pro 2, Topre MD01B0, Topre HE0100, Sun Short Type, OEM NEO CS (x2), NISSHO Electronics KB106DE
Buckling Spring: IBM Model M Space Saver (1291472), Unicomp Customizer x 2
Cherry Brown: Filco FKBN87M/EB, Compaq MX11800
Black Alps: ABS M1
Not so great boards Rare Spring over dome OKI, Sun rack keyboard

Trackballs - Trackman Wheel (3), Trackman marble (2)
Keyboards I still want to get - Happy Hacking Keyboard Pro 2 the White version, Realforce 23U number pad in black and maybe white, μTRON ergo board with Topre switches.
Previously owned - [size=0]SiiG MiniTouch (White Alps), Scorpius M10 (Blue Cherry), IBM Model M13[/size]

Offline Oqsy

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #56 on: Fri, 29 January 2010, 23:35:50 »
As a VW owner, I've been using PlastiDip for mods for a while now, and I have to say I LOVE this stuff.  I've never used it on keys, but can give a few general tips about the stuff.

1.  Lots of thin coats = grippy more textured surface
2.  Few THICK coats = shiny, smoother surface
3.  After curing, spray with 303 Aerospace Protectant to "condition" and help prevent dust / fuzz buildup.  I use 303 exclusively for all cleaning and wiping of plasti-dipped surfaces.  
4.  To remove, find a corner or edge of the material and rub VIGOROUSLY with your fingertip until the surface heats up and the plastidip starts to roll off the surface.  Once you get a loose edge, just peel away.
5.  USE IN WELL VENTILATED AREA AND WITH A MASK!  This stuff is pretty nasty as far as fumes, and has left me lightheaded and with severe headaches many times.  
6.  Use the spray and the dip cans wisely for specific jobs.  This stuff can even be thinned with Naptha and brushed or rolled on.  I use the dipping cans whenever a smooth uniform finish is desired, the spray for a more flat, textured look.  The dipping can also goes on MUCH thicker if not thinned, so is ideal for protective uses.  
7.  Use caution when recoating.  Applying a new top coat softens, and can even liquify the lower coats, so handle more gently after recoating than you did on the initial coats.
8. Colors can be mixed, but do so on the front end, IE with the dipping cans.  I haven't been able to get a finish of any value by starting with one color and then spraying a 2nd color on top.  I wouldn't even use a second color to try to cover up the first, for reasons mentioned in #7.  The bottom color will bubble up through the top.  


I'm sure I'll think of more, but thought I would throw this list out to those of you planning to start using the 'DIP.  The finish is very nice and holds up extremely well, even on automobile exterior pieces exposed to the elements, but can be easily be removed with enough friction.
[sigpic]Currently in use: Rosewill RK9000 and CH DT225[/sigpic]
"Private misfortunes make for public welfare."

Offline rdjack21

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #57 on: Sat, 30 January 2010, 17:53:11 »
Did not know about the 303 Aerospace Protectant I will see if I can find some and try it on the next set I do. I'm going to do some after it warms up a bit because I'm not sure it will work very well if I spray some keys when it is in the 30s :)
Keyboards
Topre Capacitive: Realforce 87U, Realforce 86U, HHKB Pro 2, Topre MD01B0, Topre HE0100, Sun Short Type, OEM NEO CS (x2), NISSHO Electronics KB106DE
Buckling Spring: IBM Model M Space Saver (1291472), Unicomp Customizer x 2
Cherry Brown: Filco FKBN87M/EB, Compaq MX11800
Black Alps: ABS M1
Not so great boards Rare Spring over dome OKI, Sun rack keyboard

Trackballs - Trackman Wheel (3), Trackman marble (2)
Keyboards I still want to get - Happy Hacking Keyboard Pro 2 the White version, Realforce 23U number pad in black and maybe white, μTRON ergo board with Topre switches.
Previously owned - [size=0]SiiG MiniTouch (White Alps), Scorpius M10 (Blue Cherry), IBM Model M13[/size]

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #58 on: Sun, 23 May 2010, 15:41:14 »
Not plastidip, but...
I accidentally discovered a easy way to create a nice rough coating:



The upper spacebar is a non coated stock Filco,
the bottom one was coated by me...

Here is a closeup:



I'm currently refining the process and testing the durability,
I'll post back later with some more images and impressions!

Offline JBert

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #59 on: Sun, 23 May 2010, 16:18:35 »
No small clue on the used technique?
IBM Model F XT + Soarer's USB Converter || Cherry G80-3000/Clears

The storage list:
IBM Model F AT || Cherry G80-3000/Blues || Compaq MX11800 (Cherry brown, bizarre layout) || IBM KB-8923 (model M-style RD) || G81-3010 Hxx || BTC 5100C || G81-3000 Sxx || Atari keyboard (?)


Currently ignored by: nobody?

Disclaimer: we don\'t help you save money on [strike]keyboards[/strike] hardware, rather we make you feel less bad about your expense.
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Offline TheSoulhunter

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #60 on: Sun, 23 May 2010, 18:27:36 »
Ok, here is the story behind it... Last time I went to the DIY store I noticed they also have a "super fast drying" variant of the cans I usually get. Now, after painting some things with it, I noticed that the surfaces around it, which were not directly hit, got some unusual sandstone alike texture... I experimented around, and it seems that if you apply this paint from some range, so that it rains down as "mist" instead of a direct stream, you get this kind of texture... (As it doesn't work with normal spray-paint, my theory is that this paint dries so fast that the globules they form while drizzling down can no more "melt" on the surface). Well, next on the list was experimenting with finishings, like applying a thin layer of normal spray-paint afterward, to lower the roughness and raise the durability, like on the spacebar I posted... Still working on all this stuff, so stay tuned! ^^
« Last Edit: Sun, 23 May 2010, 18:32:52 by TheSoulhunter »

Offline lmnop

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #61 on: Mon, 24 May 2010, 05:15:13 »
anyone try those novus plastic polish solutions?

Offline lmnop

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #62 on: Mon, 24 May 2010, 10:34:35 »
Quote from: ripster;186339
Sure - use Novus stuff ALL the time.  But they have the OPPOSITE effect.   Makes the keys nice and shiny.

I'll post Wet&dry sandpaper results sometime.


how hard do you think it would be to build a face plate and casing with acrylic or polycarbonate?

Offline Oqsy

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #63 on: Thu, 27 May 2010, 22:20:05 »
That all depends on what tools you can access for the cutting process, and how accurate your measurements are of the piece you intend to replace ;)

It can certainly be done with practically any substance as long as you have the tools and skills to build your case out of that material.  I've always wanted a keyboard case made out of red brick (as thin tiles) with a bit of mortar between each section. like the keys were protruding from a brick wall.  Probably wouldn't feel too nice after about 2 minutes, though.

A clear plastic case would be tons of fun, especially if polished up nicely with a nice looking set of key caps!  Clear plastic caps would be even more fun with a mechanical switch board, but would probably be very hard to source.  

This is a bit off topic however, so I'll add:
Plasti-Dip rocks!
« Last Edit: Thu, 27 May 2010, 22:22:22 by Oqsy »
[sigpic]Currently in use: Rosewill RK9000 and CH DT225[/sigpic]
"Private misfortunes make for public welfare."

Offline TheSoulhunter

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« Reply #64 on: Mon, 07 June 2010, 16:39:50 »
Quote from: TheSoulhunter;186153
Ok, here is the story behind it... Last time I went to the DIY store I noticed they also have a "super fast drying" variant of the cans I usually get. Now, after painting some things with it, I noticed that the surfaces around it, which were not directly hit, got some unusual sandstone alike texture... I experimented around, and it seems that if you apply this paint from some range, so that it rains down as "mist" instead of a direct stream, you get this kind of texture... (As it doesn't work with normal spray-paint, my theory is that this paint dries so fast that the globules they form while drizzling down can no more "melt" on the surface). Well, next on the list was experimenting with finishings, like applying a thin layer of normal spray-paint afterward, to lower the roughness and raise the durability, like on the spacebar I posted... Still working on all this stuff, so stay tuned! ^^


Ok, here is one from my current batch:



Seems that's the roughest and overall best texture I can get via this process...
Feels really grippy, yet not disturbing, also seems to be durable, peeling it off doesn't work!

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #65 on: Mon, 07 June 2010, 17:18:29 »
Maybe I do a tutor video via Paint in my holidays or so...

Offline kishy

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #66 on: Mon, 07 June 2010, 17:34:10 »
Can't seem to find a local store that carries this product...think I've mentioned this before...

Can anyone describe exactly what the stuff is? Like..."Kleenex" is a brand of "facial tissues"..."Plasti Dip" is a brand of what?
Enthusiast of springs which buckle noisily: my keyboards
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Offline TheSoulhunter

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« Reply #67 on: Tue, 08 June 2010, 08:32:42 »
Spray-on rubber...

Offline dfj

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plasti-dip can be had at home-hardware in Canada
« Reply #68 on: Sun, 27 June 2010, 21:49:43 »
Quote from: kishy;190685
Can't seem to find a local store that carries this product...think I've mentioned this before...

Can anyone describe exactly what the stuff is? Like..."Kleenex" is a brand of "facial tissues"..."Plasti Dip" is a brand of what?


http://www.homehardware.ca/Products/index/index/Ntt/plasti-dip
Fave Switch manus: IBM, Topre, Matias, ...

Offline Oqsy

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #69 on: Mon, 28 June 2010, 03:23:48 »
I've accidentally gotten that texture before from spraying too far away on a windy day, and I had to sand and respray.  The good news for your purposes is that its MUCH harder to remove than smooth paint, so would probably work well as a wear-resistant texture for the keys.  The idea of the smooth layer on top is nice, but different paints react differently to recoating.  Plasti-Dip will sag and run as it "melts" the dried layer creating larger "clumps".  The sandy texture will be all but gone, and you'll be left with soft "clumps" of rubber.  I'm not sure I know which product you're referring to above though, so it may not be Plasti-Dip, and in that case, your mileage may vary.
[sigpic]Currently in use: Rosewill RK9000 and CH DT225[/sigpic]
"Private misfortunes make for public welfare."

Offline codek

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #70 on: Mon, 15 November 2010, 21:03:47 »
Quote from: TheSoulhunter;186153
Ok, here is the story behind it... Last time I went to the DIY store I noticed they also have a "super fast drying" variant of the cans I usually get. Now, after painting some things with it, I noticed that the surfaces around it, which were not directly hit, got some unusual sandstone alike texture... I experimented around, and it seems that if you apply this paint from some range, so that it rains down as "mist" instead of a direct stream, you get this kind of texture... (As it doesn't work with normal spray-paint, my theory is that this paint dries so fast that the globules they form while drizzling down can no more "melt" on the surface). Well, next on the list was experimenting with finishings, like applying a thin layer of normal spray-paint afterward, to lower the roughness and raise the durability, like on the spacebar I posted... Still working on all this stuff, so stay tuned! ^^


which paint were you using?

Offline TheSoulhunter

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« Reply #71 on: Tue, 16 November 2010, 08:51:50 »
Quote from: codek;247324
which paint were you using?

Genius PRO - Universal Sprühlack - Schwarz / Seidenmatt / Schnelltrocknend

Offline codek

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« Reply #72 on: Tue, 16 November 2010, 14:53:36 »
Quote from: TheSoulhunter;247459
Genius PRO - Universal Sprühlack - Schwarz / Seidenmatt / Schnelltrocknend


Link for a US buyer.  Can't find anything on google.  I googled Genius PRO Universal Sprühlack.

Thanks btw and those keys look the best here!

Offline TheSoulhunter

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« Reply #73 on: Tue, 16 November 2010, 15:59:32 »
Quote from: codek;247676
Link for a US buyer.  Can't find anything on google.  I googled Genius PRO Universal Sprühlack.

Thanks btw and those keys look the best here!

Here is their page...
Guess its only sold here in Germany!?

Offline Oqsy

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« Reply #74 on: Tue, 16 November 2010, 21:19:25 »
ripster: what primer / sealer?  that should make all the difference on the angle cuts (prevents wicking of the topcoat)
[sigpic]Currently in use: Rosewill RK9000 and CH DT225[/sigpic]
"Private misfortunes make for public welfare."

Offline codek

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« Reply #75 on: Fri, 19 November 2010, 01:03:37 »
Quote from: ripster;247841
This is the stuff I was talking about.  Rubberized and textured.  If you spray it in cold temperature it's quite grainy.  If you spray in hot temperatures it flows smoother, more pebbly.  Haven't tried it on keys though.

I hand built 5 of these for PC surrounds.  The MDF angle cuts were the trickiest part.
Show Image

thanks rip

What do you mean grainy or pebbly? and how does this differ from reg paint.

please explain to a noob like me.

Offline Crypt

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Plasti Dip those Shiny Keys!
« Reply #76 on: Thu, 09 December 2010, 12:17:44 »
Great stuff...I'm definitely going to have to do this for my mouse (Razer Salmosa Mini).



The shiny sides do not feel good at all.