Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide

[Aranair]

i can't get hold of 105 oil so i'm using 205 only. Maybe its a mistake damn lol.

...Time to look for some clear switches for my poker ...

[Photoelectric]

Have you guys lubricated "new" black switches, including the spring?  If so, how would you describe the change (if there was a noticeable change)?  Wondering if lubricating would make them a tad easier to press.

[godly_music]

I used PTFE (Teflon) to lube brand new MX Blacks and it actually made them stiffer. I wouldn't touch new switches.

[Photoelectric]

I used PTFE (Teflon) to lube brand new MX Blacks and it actually made them stiffer. I wouldn't touch new switches.

Good to know--thanks!  I wonder if its because that lube has thick consistency and fills tiny unworn spaces to make overall movement more difficult, even if reducing friction on the moving parts.

[Photekq]

Have you guys lubricated "new" black switches, including the spring?  If so, how would you describe the change (if there was a noticeable change)?  Wondering if lubricating would make them a tad easier to press.

Lubrication very rarely makes them easier to press. That isn't the attraction. Lubing makes the action smoother. If you use grease then you will definitely notice that the switch is stiffer, if you use an oil or a mixture or an oil & grease then it only feel a little heavier, if at all.

New blacks do feel much smoother after lubricating. Incredibly smooth, and incredibly nice to press. If you want a lighter version just use reds.

[Masterchief79]

I have a 1984-1986 keyboard with prototype blacks here (no cherry logo on them). They are extremely scratchy and have a lot higher press-resistance if you don't hit the cap right in the middle. I was thinking about lubricating them, but I'm not sure yet... They are plate-mounted, so I would have to solder them out, and on the other hand I also don't want to ruin my nice old vintage keyboard by changing the typing feeling^^

[Photoelectric]

No I definitely don't want reds.  Im very much enamored with the feel of blacks after trying them out on an acquaintance's Steelseries 7g, where they felt worn in and very smooth.  No noticeable Grundy friction.  They seemed easier to press than another MX black keyboard I tried briefly at PAX East, but then the latter was brand new.  I was just wondering if lubricating would help with that smooth worn-in feeling that required a slightly lighter touch, but I guess it's all about actually using the switches for a good long while.

[Aranair]

quick question again: is a mix of 105 oil and 205 grease suitable for springs/stem or is the mixture too viscous still?

[jdcarpe]

quick question again: is a mix of 105 oil and 205 grease suitable for springs/stem or is the mixture too viscous still?

For springs you want only the oil. And since Krytox oil is expensive, most people use other oils for those, Victorinox multi tool oil, for example.

[Aranair]

oh well, i don't know if i was dreaming or what when i bought the 105. I wanted the 103 but bought the 105 instead /sigh

I guess i'll just make do with the expensive one (lol)

[Photoelectric]

What do you use to clean Costar stabilizer bars prior to lubricating?  Alcohol is okay for that?  Are those bars mostly rust-proof?

[fateswarm]

Let's assume I have a switch with a LED on it that probably needs disoldering to be taken apart and let's assume I will not do it.

If I drop a couple of droplets above the switch while the top of it is depressed (oil entering the caved-in area around the main 'cross'), what areas will the oil be able to access after I press the switch a few times?

Will it reach all areas around the top? Will it reach the spring on the inside?

[gnubag]

If I drop a couple of droplets above the switch while the top of it is depressed (oil entering the caved-in area around the main 'cross'), what areas will the oil be able to access after I press the switch a few times?

Will it reach all areas around the top? Will it reach the spring on the inside?

1. maybe

2. not until you flood the switch

[fateswarm]

Hrm, that's encouraging because I have developed the following brutal method:

If it's flooded, blowing compressed air in it pushes everything out.

It's still safe for the mechanism itself.

[Nakapfao]

Slick guide, thanks ^_^

[Glod]

Hrm, that's encouraging because I have developed the following brutal method:

If it's flooded, blowing compressed air in it pushes everything out.

It's still safe for the mechanism itself.

you can try it on a test switch but i doubt it will work, you really need to disassemble the switch assembly to properly lube. if you are going to go through the trouble to lubricate i highly suggest learning to desolder and solder, its seriously not hard when it comes to switches and leds; just don't apply too much heat or too little heat and its easy. in fact i would say doing the dis assembly of the switch and lubricating is more work than desoldering and soldering.

--

on another note i am lubricating right now a race with reds and im trying a different method for the springs, for the stem/sliders i used 205/103 mix with a fine paint brush and then for the springs instead of using machine oil i used the silicone lube that dries with a film, it seems to work fine. maybe not the full effect that machine oil would do but it does soften the spring's contact with the assembly. I was just afraid of over-lubricating the whole assembly which i think i did for a few switches on my first lubrication job i did on my ergodox #1.

[calavera]

Quick and dirty way to lube springs is to put all of them into a plastic bag, add few drops of lube, seal with air in it as if it were a ballon. Commence shaking the crap out of it.

[Glod]

Quick and dirty way to lube springs is to put all of them into a plastic bag, add few drops of lube, seal with air in it as if it were a ballon. Commence shaking the crap out of it.

i did a similar thing with the silicone lube that drys into a film, i put them in a small Rubbermaid container like you would put leftovers in and then applied lube, shifted it around and then let the springs sit for a day to dry, they were then lubricated via the dry film. Again, it is not the same effect as the machine oil but it does lubricate the spring at the point of contact with the assembly of the switch. its obviously something to try and decide not exactly a recommendation.

[fateswarm]

The issue with disoldering a switch with a LED isn't exactly knowledge but if it's worth the work needed (and the connection points are at least 4 for each switch, because of the extra LED). I'm not even experienced, but even if I were, I find it not worth the trouble if it has to be done on one hundred keys.

If flooding with any method works I prefer it even if it's messy.

If I were making it something from scratch etc. etc. then it might seem worth it. It's about personal priorities.

[VesperSAINT]

The issue with disoldering a switch with a LED isn't exactly knowledge but if it's worth the work needed (and the connection points are at least 4 for each switch, because of the extra LED). I'm not even experienced, but even if I were, I find it not worth the trouble if it has to be done on one hundred keys.

If flooding with any method works I prefer it even if it's messy.

This. I sold my Ducky Shine II with Clears for this exact reason. Desoldering LED's is such a pain in the ass because not only is there 2 extra points per switch, they are also smaller and much harder to desolder.

[ksm123]

Can somebody show me, how to disassemble a switch on ErgoDox without desoldering (on Massdrop's acrylic plate).
What tool do you use to open "snaps" in the switch?

OK I see it, my wrong, I was trying to pry open the switch from below. The correct way to do it is to use 2,4mm flat screwdriver as a lever. You insert it (verticaly) into side of top switch housing, where there is a "socket" prepared for it. The rest is as simple as YouTube video shows it is.

I used FinishLine Extreme Fluoro on stems, I distributed it with brush. Now my MX Clears feel real smooth :-)

[SpAmRaY]

Can somebody show me, how to disassemble a switch on ErgoDox without desoldering (on Massdrop's acrylic plate).
What tool do you use to open "snaps" in the switch?

I'm not sure this is possible, unless the ergodox has the extra cutout for the switch to be opened. Most boards do not.

[ksm123]

There are cutouts on the sides, but acrylic plate is much thicker than metal plates.

[Glod]

Can somebody show me, how to disassemble a switch on ErgoDox without desoldering (on Massdrop's acrylic plate).
What tool do you use to open "snaps" in the switch?

I'm not sure this is possible, unless the ergodox has the extra cutout for the switch to be opened. Most boards do not.

It has those extra notches so the switch can be opened. It was a nice touch litster put in his case design.

[kaiserreich]

Victorinox oil is so hard to get around my place.
Any known problems with using Singer oil? (Sewing machine mineral oil)

[WhiteFireDragon]

I think it might be ok. Maybe even victorinox oil is just a glorified version of sewing machine oil. Can't really confirm this because we don't know the composition of what the oil actually is. As long as it's relatively high viscosity, plastic and metal safe, it should be fine.

[cgbuen]

I haven't found a more recent discussion on lubing stations other than the small lubing station IC thread, but I just wanted to share my makeshift one:



For several months now, I've been using WFD's universal plate as a lube station. I used to have to fit in the switch bottoms on all the ends/throughout the whole plate for it to balance, as they'd stand on the pins. Then I'd have to lay it all on top of something (usually a thin piece of plastic) so the pins wouldn't scratch up my workspace.

Somehow it only hit me tonight that I could lay it atop a TKL top cover for better results. If you've already opened up a board for servicing, you could just use that. Or if you're like me, you could use the branded QFR top cover that you never knew what to do with (since I got unbranded one from CM's store several months ago).

[Sifo]

Hah I wish I ordered an extra plate to do that with. Smart!

[gnubag]

Hah I wish I ordered an extra plate to do that with. Smart!

maybe he still has some, pm him

[Sifo]

Nah I'm good for now, I won't be building any new boards soon I don't think.

[Photoelectric]

How many of you put some oil into this depression where the stem travels:



I saw on WFD's wonderful lubing video that it's good to put high viscosity oil in there (like Victorinox), but I'm wondering if this will slow down the stem movement.  Or is that viscosity not enough for that effect vs. spring stiffness?

[SpAmRaY]

I haven't found a more recent discussion on lubing stations other than the small lubing station IC thread, but I just wanted to share my makeshift one:

Show Image

For several months now, I've been using WFD's universal plate as a lube station. I used to have to fit in the switch bottoms on all the ends/throughout the whole plate for it to balance, as they'd stand on the pins. Then I'd have to lay it all on top of something (usually a thin piece of plastic) so the pins wouldn't scratch up my workspace.

Somehow it only hit me tonight that I could lay it atop a TKL top cover for better results. If you've already opened up a board for servicing, you could just use that. Or if you're like me, you could use the branded QFR top cover that you never knew what to do with (since I got unbranded one from CM's store several months ago).

I plan on doing something like this but was thinking of using some rubber feet or stand offs but never thought to just throw a QFR top underneath!!

[mashby]

How many of you put some oil into this depression where the stem travels:

Show Image

I saw on WFD's wonderful lubing video that it's good to put high viscosity oil in there (like Victorinox), but I'm wondering if this will slow down the stem movement.  Or is that viscosity not enough for that effect vs. spring stiffness?

I've followed WFD's video and done that on both reds and blacks and had no issues. Like WFD, I also lube the stem with the same oil.


Lubing MX-White
Last night I tried a couple of different methods of lubing MX-White switches and had mixed results.
   - Lubing the side rails killed the click.
   - Lubing the actuator on the clicking element killed the click
   - Lubing the post hole and stem reduced the click
 
Ultimately, I just don't think it's worth it. Either I don't have the patience, or the right mix and since MX-White have a softer click, I just didn't want to spend the time.

Anyone else have any success lubing MX-White switches?

[SpAmRaY]

How many of you put some oil into this depression where the stem travels:

Show Image

I saw on WFD's wonderful lubing video that it's good to put high viscosity oil in there (like Victorinox), but I'm wondering if this will slow down the stem movement.  Or is that viscosity not enough for that effect vs. spring stiffness?

I've followed WFD's video and done that on both reds and blacks and had no issues. Like WFD, I also lube the stem with the same oil.


Lubing MX-White
Last night I tried a couple of different methods of lubing MX-White switches and had mixed results.
   - Lubing the side rails killed the click.
   - Lubing the actuator on the clicking element killed the click
   - Lubing the post hole and stem reduced the click
 
Ultimately, I just don't think it's worth it. Either I don't have the patience, or the right mix and since MX-White have a softer click, I just didn't want to spend the time.

Anyone else have any success lubing MX-White switches?

Don't they come pre-lubed to some degree from the factory?

[mashby]

Anyone else have any success lubing MX-White switches?

Don't they come pre-lubed to some degree from the factory?

There did feel to be a little bit of a residue of something on the spring and clicky part, but it's hard to say definitively. I'm installing switch stickers, so I figured while I was in there, I could give some tests a go. 

[Photoelectric]

How many of you put some oil into this depression where the stem travels:

Show Image

I saw on WFD's wonderful lubing video that it's good to put high viscosity oil in there (like Victorinox), but I'm wondering if this will slow down the stem movement.  Or is that viscosity not enough for that effect vs. spring stiffness?

I've followed WFD's video and done that on both reds and blacks and had no issues. Like WFD, I also lube the stem with the same oil.

He only used the high viscosity oil on the springs and the inside of the hole in the bottom part of the housing.  For the rest, he used the Krytox mixture, like the stem sides and front.

[gnubag]

How many of you put some oil into this depression where the stem travels:

Show Image

I saw on WFD's wonderful lubing video that it's good to put high viscosity oil in there (like Victorinox), but I'm wondering if this will slow down the stem movement.  Or is that viscosity not enough for that effect vs. spring stiffness?

I've followed WFD's video and done that on both reds and blacks and had no issues. Like WFD, I also lube the stem with the same oil.


Lubing MX-White
Last night I tried a couple of different methods of lubing MX-White switches and had mixed results.
   - Lubing the side rails killed the click.
   - Lubing the actuator on the clicking element killed the click
   - Lubing the post hole and stem reduced the click
 
Ultimately, I just don't think it's worth it. Either I don't have the patience, or the right mix and since MX-White have a softer click, I just didn't want to spend the time.

Anyone else have any success lubing MX-White switches?

I have tried some very low viscosity sewing machine oil on blue stems. it worked for me when I was only lubing the railes and the hole where the stem is moving in. almost no change in sound.

[VesperSAINT]

How many of you put some oil into this depression where the stem travels:

Show Image

I saw on WFD's wonderful lubing video that it's good to put high viscosity oil in there (like Victorinox), but I'm wondering if this will slow down the stem movement.  Or is that viscosity not enough for that effect vs. spring stiffness?

I put Victorinox oil in the hole. It doesn't slow down the stem movement at all. The main reason for doing it is to reduce the bottoming out sound and I love the soft sound it produces. HOWEVER, I've had experiences where if you put too much oil in there, the stem will make a popping sound when going into the hole because of the bubble being formed and pushed down until it pops because of too much oil in there. It doesn't slow down any movement of the stem but it can throw you off when you feel the slight pressure build up as you press down until it pops... it's actually kind of nice feeling :)) but the inconsistency would throw you off. It does eventually go away though, which I assume is a result of the oil being pressed out and distributed around.

[The_Ed]

Just don't put EK mechlube in the hole... God help you if you do... (Yes, I was the poor sod who tried putting EK Mechlube in my capslock switch over a year ago...) Thin oils are just fine, but it isn't really necessary or noticeable.

[turtle]

I am in the process of lubing, plate, and stickering  on my cm qfr w/ ghetto greens but only have the kryptox 205 grease. I see the guide don't recommend it with clickys stems but wondering if anyone tried it. Planning to do it since i got it sitting at my desk. What  other recommendation would you guys recommend for set up. Thanks.

[VesperSAINT]

I am in the process of lubing, plate, and stickering  on my cm qfr w/ ghetto greens but only have the kryptox 205 grease. I see the guide don't recommend it with clickys stems but wondering if anyone tried it. Planning to do it since i got it sitting at my desk. What  other recommendation would you guys recommend for set up. Thanks.

I've done it for keyboard science. DON'T DO IT. Why? From my experience, you'll lose all clicking and it'll just feel broken, and I only lubed the sides of the stems and not even the slide itself! The bad-feels you get is almost identical to when you get switches that won't click on a clicky keyboard (those that have felt this issue know the true heart ache). Once you've lubed them, you'll have to clean all the stems and replace the switch housing because you can't even clean those, which might even mean you might have to desolder all your switches out for new ones... I really do highly recommend you don't lube your clicky switch.

[Grim Fandango]

Thanks for this guide. I am contemplating lubing at least one of my keyboards, but I am not sure whether I would like the result. At least now I know how to do it without messing it up.

[turtle]

I am in the process of lubing, plate, and stickering  on my cm qfr w/ ghetto greens but only have the kryptox 205 grease. I see the guide don't recommend it with clickys stems but wondering if anyone tried it. Planning to do it since i got it sitting at my desk. What  other recommendation would you guys recommend for set up. Thanks.

I've done it for keyboard science. DON'T DO IT. Why? From my experience, you'll lose all clicking and it'll just feel broken, and I only lubed the sides of the stems and not even the slide itself! The bad-feels you get is almost identical to when you get switches that won't click on a clicky keyboard (those that have felt this issue know the true heart ache). Once you've lubed them, you'll have to clean all the stems and replace the switch housing because you can't even clean those, which might even mean you might have to desolder all your switches out for new ones... I really do highly recommend you don't lube your clicky switch.

Thanks for your input! are you referring to just kryptox 205 or lubing them in general?

[The_Ed]

Krytox 200 (the thinnest of the krytox greases) kills the click, and even the krytox oils have been known to kill the click. That is why there is the consensus that if you have clicky switches you shouldn't lube them. The tiniest amount of lube is enough to slow down the click slider enough for it to no longer click.

[mkawa]

all the krytox greases have the same viscosity.

[turtle]

Okay, I'll leave my ghetto greens alone. Thank you all =]

[The_Ed]

all the krytox greases have the same viscosity.

No they don't... I have 200 and 205, and their viscosities are completely different. The lower the number the thinner the grease/oil.

[mellohello]

Can anyone comment on using sprays on plate mounted keyboards? I've had my MX Black Quickfire Rapid for something like a year and would prefer to get rid of that scratchy feeling. I guess I just press down the stem and spray. Is this method long-lasting/effective?

Thanks.

[SpAmRaY]

Can anyone comment on using sprays on plate mounted keyboards? I've had my MX Black Quickfire Rapid for something like a year and would prefer to get rid of that scratchy feeling. I guess I just press down the stem and spray. Is this method long-lasting/effective?

Thanks.

Its not really a recommended method.

[mellohello]

K

Thank you.