The Living Soldering Thread

[twiddle]

Soldering wire to the boards phoenix suggested would be close enough, I think. it's essentially the same thing insofar as switch leads are at some level a wire protruding through a plated hole.

[Ngt]

Thanks for your suggestion guys!

[phoenix1234]

If you are really in SMD soldering, you should follow twiddle suggestion.
For through hole soldering, I think a test board and a couple of solid core wire are good enough.
If you don't have the test board, you can do the practice on wire alone. It could be an interesting lesson.

[Ngt]

If you are really in SMD soldering, you should follow twiddle suggestion.
For through hole soldering, I think a test board and a couple of solid core wire are good enough.
If you don't have the test board, you can do the practice on wire alone. It could be an interesting lesson.
(Attachment Link)

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(Attachment Link)

My PCB has the SMD presoldered so it will be only a matter of soldering the switches and sip socket. I forgot but I have a switch tester from Massdrop a while ago and it comes with a PCB. I think I'll use it to learn how to solder switches and get comfortable using my soldering gear. I'll keep your suggestions in mind when I'll have to solder SMD.

[phoenix1234]

My PCB has the SMD presoldered so it will be only a matter of soldering the switches and sip socket. I forgot but I have a switch tester from Massdrop a while ago and it comes with a PCB. I think I'll use it to learn how to solder switches and get comfortable using my soldering gear. I'll keep your suggestions in mind when I'll have to solder SMD.

In fact, SMD / drag soldering is quite difficult if you don't have the right tools for the right jobs. So you may need to buy some soldering tips until then. Sometimes, I find myself difficult to do that even my Weller WSP80 has a lot of small tips for SMD soldering.

[Ngt]

My PCB has the SMD presoldered so it will be only a matter of soldering the switches and sip socket. I forgot but I have a switch tester from Massdrop a while ago and it comes with a PCB. I think I'll use it to learn how to solder switches and get comfortable using my soldering gear. I'll keep your suggestions in mind when I'll have to solder SMD.

In fact, SMD / drag soldering is quite difficult if you don't have the right tools for the right jobs. So you may need to buy some soldering tips until then. Sometimes, I find myself difficult to do that even my Weller WSP80 has a lot of small tips for SMD soldering.

Show Image

I already have 1.0mm tip and 0.5mm tip. IIRC DanielT told me 0.5mm would do the job on SMD soldering jobs. What kind of tips do you have?

[VinnyCordeiro]

Just found this video on YouTube. Very useful, I wish I could buy Kapton tape easily here in Brazil.

[swill]

Just found this video on YouTube. Very useful, I wish I could buy Kapton tape easily here in Brazil.

Ya, thats an interesting watch.  I guess that is pretty much the same thing as magnet wire.

[phoenix1234]

I already have 1.0mm tip and 0.5mm tip. IIRC DanielT told me 0.5mm would do the job on SMD soldering jobs. What kind of tips do you have?

0.5mm tip would be great. However, the shape of the tip is also important. If you have 0.5 round tip, you may need to solder one join at a time and it may take longer time to complete a project. Besides, round tip is not really good in heat transferring so you may face some problems like cold join.

[twiddle]

All of the drag soldering that you can see in my custom controller thread in making stuff together was done with an AOYUE T-2C tip:

No gull-wing but just a flat bevel cut tip. Works well for almost everything.

[Ngt]

I already have 1.0mm tip and 0.5mm tip. IIRC DanielT told me 0.5mm would do the job on SMD soldering jobs. What kind of tips do you have?

0.5mm tip would be great. However, the shape of the tip is also important. If you have 0.5 round tip, you may need to solder one join at a time and it may take longer time to complete a project. Besides, round tip is not really good in heat transferring so you may face some problems like cold join.

Here is the tip in question: http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/replacement-bits/50-bits-for-xs,mlxs/b005560/

[sethk_]

I already have 1.0mm tip and 0.5mm tip. IIRC DanielT told me 0.5mm would do the job on SMD soldering jobs. What kind of tips do you have?

0.5mm tip would be great. However, the shape of the tip is also important. If you have 0.5 round tip, you may need to solder one join at a time and it may take longer time to complete a project. Besides, round tip is not really good in heat transferring so you may face some problems like cold join.

I use a 1.2mm tip for SMD and 2.4mm tip for switches. If you use a too small tip for the switches, it won't go around the full way without you going around with the tip and leave a cold joint

Here is the tip in question: http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/replacement-bits/50-bits-for-xs,mlxs/b005560/

[Ngt]

I already have 1.0mm tip and 0.5mm tip. IIRC DanielT told me 0.5mm would do the job on SMD soldering jobs. What kind of tips do you have?

0.5mm tip would be great. However, the shape of the tip is also important. If you have 0.5 round tip, you may need to solder one join at a time and it may take longer time to complete a project. Besides, round tip is not really good in heat transferring so you may face some problems like cold join.

I use a 1.2mm tip for SMD and 2.4mm tip for switches. If you use a too small tip for the switches, it won't go around the full way without you going around with the tip and leave a cold joint

Here is the tip in question: http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/replacement-bits/50-bits-for-xs,mlxs/b005560/

Yeah DanielT advised me a 1.0mm tip for switches and the 0.5mm for SMD. I haven't tried yet so I don't know how I feel about them yet.

[hasu]

I second that type of tip. I use Hakko 2BC or 3BC conical cut tips for everything, both SMD and through hole. It is versatile, you can QFP drag solder, fix solder bridge, remove excess solder and etc. with the tip.

If PCB has enough space between components you won't need much thin tip like 1.0 or 0.5mm. But thin solder wire like 0.5mm or less is useful for SMD soldering from my experience.

All of the drag soldering that you can see in my custom controller thread in making stuff together was done with an AOYUE T-2C tip:

Show Image

No gull-wing but just a flat bevel cut tip. Works well for almost everything.

[kishagi]

Does anybody have some advice for desoldering the switches off of the Filco Majestouch 2 boards? Im trying to switch the springs to 80g that I bought from Massdrop. Im quite sure that Ive already messed up a few times. I tried to follow that video on youtube that shows how to remove the switch tops from plate mounted switches, only to find out that factory plates are made differently than the one shown in the video...

Here's what I'm concerned about:

The solder staying within the holes and finding a way to get it out properly


Finding new pads for the LEDs


Pins breaking off the switches upon removal


Copper inserts coming out along with the switches


Thanks for your help!

[phoenix1234]

The solder staying within the holes and finding a way to get it out properly
Finding new pads for the LEDs
Pins breaking off the switches upon removal
Copper inserts coming out along with the switches

Probably either of these :

+ Your soldering iron is not hot enough
   - You should wait until the soldering iron reach to the per-defined temperature before going to desolder another switch. Usually, the soldering station has a red-led, if it is blinking, it  means the soldering iron is not ready, you should wait until the red-led is off before soldering/desoldering.
   - You should set the soldering iron hot enough to desolder the lead-free solder joins. For lead-free solder, the temperature should be around 350-400 C degree.
+ The contact between your soldering iron is not so good
   - You should use or add a bit of solder to the switches before touching them
   - Please make sure the contact area between the soldering tip and the switch is large enough to transfer heat, you can try a different type of tip like chisel tip 2.4mm
+ Your soldering pump is not strong enough
   - Please make sure you have a good and solid soldering pump, otherwise the solder will get stuck
   - Please make sure the contact point between the pump and the solder join is close enough when desoldering

Possible solution for the problem of solder staying within the holes:
   - You can try to add a bit of solder back to that hole and desolder again

[jd29]

Does anybody have some advice for desoldering the switches off of the Filco Majestouch 2 boards?

For me it came down to the iron simply being too weak. If you have a higher-wattage gun, that will work, but people say you shouldn't because the coils can put unwanted electricity through your work. My cheap Weller 7200 didn't hurt my switches or ICs or anything, though.

Edit: actually, you probably shouldn't do this. I used my gun on two boards with DIP microcontrollers marked 1977. Modern SMD chips may be a lot more sensitive. You might just need a higher wattage iron, if yours is closer to 40 like mine.

[Bloo]

I have an RS84 that I finished putting together a few weeks ago and I'm having trouble with a column not responding.  I initially pulled all of the switches in the column, cleaned the through holes and resoldered them with no change.  I've done some continuity testing between the switches and controller, but i'm not a huge electronics person so I'm unsure where to go from there to figure out a fix.  I've circled the pins that seem to be responding on the multimeter.  Basically all of the upper pins in the column communicate with each other and with various points on the controller.  Anyone have an thoughts?

edit:  tested with new equipment and only one pin on the controller shows continuity to the switch, which I gather is normal.

Edit 2:  following some sound advise I tested while powered and found a short to ground on that column.

[Bucake]

would anyone help me out with finding a good (EU-plug) soldering iron? :/

initially i got the edsyn 951SX recommended because of the high price-to-quality ratio it apparently has, but the 230-version costs about $100 dollars more than the 'regular' version, and i could only find US-based sources (which adds a ton of shipping costs + import charges and in turn 'kills the deal' a bit).

anyway.. i really just want a good soldering iron with an EU plug. i was thinking of 300 as budget, but i'm not sure how realistic that is?
i certainly care about quality (reliability, longevity, features, build quality...)
it's so annoying not to be able to mod (and clean!) my keyboards

[KHAANNN]

Just found this video on YouTube. Very useful, I wish I could buy Kapton tape easily here in Brazil.

you might find it from 3d printing shops/communities, you can also get it from china for cheap

[phoenix1234]

would anyone help me out with finding a good (EU-plug) soldering iron? :/

initially i got the edsyn 951SX recommended because of the high price-to-quality ratio it apparently has, but the 230-version costs about $100 dollars more than the 'regular' version, and i could only find US-based sources (which adds a ton of shipping costs + import charges and in turn 'kills the deal' a bit).

anyway.. i really just want a good soldering iron with an EU plug. i was thinking of 300 as budget, but i'm not sure how realistic that is?
i certainly care about quality (reliability, longevity, features, build quality...)
it's so annoying not to be able to mod (and clean!) my keyboards

If you are living in EU, you can easily find high quality Weller, ERSA, metcal soldering stations.
They should have default EU plug.
You can start with this one and set some more LT tips :

http://www.weidinger.eu/en/shop/soldering_equipment/weller/weller_soldering_and_desoldering_device/weller_soldering_and_desoldering_stations/wl31307

[tofgerl]

I bought some extremely thin wire, 0.12mm^2. But how the hell am I supposed to strip it...?

[phoenix1234]

I bought some extremely thin wire, 0.12mm^2. But how the hell am I supposed to strip it...?

Good stripping tools like Hozan P-963, Hozan P-967 would do the jobs.
However, you can use a small electronic snipping pliers to strip it carefully.

[tofgerl]

Great, now I have to learn what American Wire Gauge is.... Someone should hold the US upside down in a toilet bowl until they gave up and just converted everything to metric... OK, looks like about 26 AWG.
Well, I'll check the local hardware stores. Thanks!

[swill]

Great, now I have to learn what American Wire Gauge is.... Someone should hold the US upside down in a toilet bowl until they gave up and just converted everything to metric... OK, looks like about 26 AWG.
Well, I'll check the local hardware stores. Thanks!

Google is your friend. Basically it is one gauge number different if I remember correctly.

[trenzafeeds]

How the **** do you solder surface-mount diodes.

[Sifo]

pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other

[trenzafeeds]

pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other

They're just so small and annoying.

[bcredbottle]

pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other

They're just so small and annoying.

lol. What size tip are you using?

[trenzafeeds]

pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other

They're just so small and annoying.

lol. What size tip are you using?

The stock standard size, it can be done though. I just wasn't using flux. That should help a bit.

[filphil]

pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other

They're just so small and annoying.

lol. What size tip are you using?

The stock standard size, it can be done though. I just wasn't using flux. That should help a bit.

A bit is an understatement.  You'll face palm yourself so hard you'll forget what's in your hand and stab yourself with a soldering iron.

[trenzafeeds]

pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other

They're just so small and annoying.

lol. What size tip are you using?

The stock standard size, it can be done though. I just wasn't using flux. That should help a bit.

A bit is an understatement.  You'll face palm yourself so hard you'll forget what's in your hand and stab yourself with a soldering iron.

Can't wait

[twiddle]

Little tutorial on how I handle the MELF-packaged diodes with Chip-Quik tack flux:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4692574/gh/Soldering_MELF_package.mp4

You can tack a bunch of the diodes on one side, then rotate the whole board and go back along the row to do the other side (faster when you are doing more than one).

[trenzafeeds]

Show Image

Little tutorial on how I handle the MELF-packaged diodes with Chip-Quik tack flux:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4692574/gh/Soldering_MELF_package.mp4

You can tack a bunch of the diodes on one side, then rotate the whole board and go back along the row to do the other side (faster when you are doing more than one).

Those aren't the type I'm soldering

[twiddle]

Those aren't the type I'm soldering

My bad. What package are the ones you are soldering? The MELF ones are the ones that seem to generate the most swearing, from what I've seen. The other packages that I've seen used aren't really any more difficult than SMT resistors or caps, I think.

[slaction]

I'm just starting to do some basic switch soldering with the Weller WCL100 and was wondering if anyone could give me advice on the best knob setting that works well for them?

I understand the knob is a power setting and not a temp setting, but I was just wondering if anyone familiar with that iron had any advice for the settings.

Thanks

[gabba-gool]

I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.

[heedpantsnow]

I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.

I really love my Hakko 888.  Never tried the Weller.

[gabba-gool]

I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.

I really love my Hakko 888.  Never tried the Weller.

I'm kind of leaning that way. Do you have the digital one?

[trees]

I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.

I bought the Hakko 888D as a novice with no experience and just finished my first board! its a great iron, kept its heat up and was comfortable to keep going for a long time.

[gabba-gool]

I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.

I bought the Hakko 888D as a novice with no experience and just finished my first board! its a great iron, kept its heat up and was comfortable to keep going for a long time.

Awesome! Thank you sir. Most likely going to purchase this one.

[heedpantsnow]

I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.

I really love my Hakko 888.  Never tried the Weller.

I'm kind of leaning that way. Do you have the digital one?

Yes.  I only had experience before with cheap adjustable ones.  It's like night and day moving to the Hakko.  If I had understood how much a difference it was from the cheap ones, I would have made the switch to Hakko years ago (but I guess the digital version didn't exist back then).

[tofgerl]

I used a 25W iron from a scandinavian big-box chain for carparts and stuff. Cheap and functional.
Then I bought a SEEED iron from Massdrop. Holy **** was there a difference! Night and day...

Not to mention the Seed is the size of a screwdriver while the 25W was the size of a huge wrench! Very highly recommended! Reaches 300C in seconds and is adjustable from 100 to 400 in 10s.

[sitch]

Hey there's couple of questions

1. How do we know if a electrical component got burned? eg smd diodes.
2. How long can we put soldering iron 30W to a solder before it get burned?
3. Can we identify which mx switch is bad? some of my switches doesnt trigger the key..

[myotherteeshirt]

Hi all,

I need some advice on desoldering 4 pin RGD LEDs. I created a new thread but i suppose this is the proper place to ask.

Whats happening now is i'm able to get the blob of solder on the pad out, but the solder that is in the hole stays and refuses to budge.



I have some solder wick, a solder pump (pictured) and a seeed mini soldering iron with a bevel tip. The solder wick has been absolutely useless so far, but i'll try using some flux with it - saw that suggestion somewhere in this thread.

As for the solder pump, i'm pretty sure its from the 90s. Works well, but has huge recoil(?) when you activate the mechanism - also, it randomly coughs out flakes of dried solder. It looks to me like the pump is too big for the job. I'm considering getting one of those solder suckers with a silicone tip.

Any advice on how to get the job done with the tools at hand would be nice!

EDIT:

I used a 25W iron from a scandinavian big-box chain for carparts and stuff. Cheap and functional.
Then I bought a SEEED iron from Massdrop. Holy **** was there a difference! Night and day...

Not to mention the Seed is the size of a screwdriver while the 25W was the size of a huge wrench! Very highly recommended! Reaches 300C in seconds and is adjustable from 100 to 400 in 10s.

I second this. The SEEED iron is really impressive. Literally under 5 seconds to reach 300C. Size wise, slightly longer but comparable to a Pilot G2 pen.

[phoenix1234]

The solder wick has been absolutely useless so far, but i'll try using some flux with it - saw that suggestion somewhere in this thread.

I'm pretty sure the solder wick is pretty good for the job. You should try with some additional flux, it should work flawlessly. Besides, please make sure you have a good one (Goot brand for example) with small size (1.5mm).

[myotherteeshirt]

I'm pretty sure the solder wick is pretty good for the job. You should try with some additional flux, it should work flawlessly. Besides, please make sure you have a good one (Goot brand for example) with small size (1.5mm).

Yeah, i did thought that too - i imagined that solder wick would, well, -wick- away the solder. As it is, it kind of just sits on the joint, not really doing anything except making me worry that i might damage the pcb.

This looks like the solder wick i have:

[tofgerl]

Make sure you're using fresh wick every time. If you only cut of the very tip and restart an inch away the flux will already be gone. Cut off a few inches every time. If you look close, you can see the sheen of the flux where it hasn't... fluxed... yet...

Or yeah, add more flux.

[heedpantsnow]

I'm pretty sure the solder wick is pretty good for the job. You should try with some additional flux, it should work flawlessly. Besides, please make sure you have a good one (Goot brand for example) with small size (1.5mm).

Yeah, i did thought that too - i imagined that solder wick would, well, -wick- away the solder. As it is, it kind of just sits on the joint, not really doing anything except making me worry that i might damage the pcb.

This looks like the solder wick i have:

Show Image

I'm not an expert, but I always add a generous amount of new solder to the joint, then reheat again, and suck it all up together.

[filphil]

Hi all,

I need some advice on desoldering 4 pin RGD LEDs. I created a new thread but i suppose this is the proper place to ask.

Whats happening now is i'm able to get the blob of solder on the pad out, but the solder that is in the hole stays and refuses to budge.

(Attachment Link)

I have some solder wick, a solder pump (pictured) and a seeed mini soldering iron with a bevel tip. The solder wick has been absolutely useless so far, but i'll try using some flux with it - saw that suggestion somewhere in this thread.

As for the solder pump, i'm pretty sure its from the 90s. Works well, but has huge recoil(?) when you activate the mechanism - also, it randomly coughs out flakes of dried solder. It looks to me like the pump is too big for the job. I'm considering getting one of those solder suckers with a silicone tip.

Any advice on how to get the job done with the tools at hand would be nice!

EDIT:

I used a 25W iron from a scandinavian big-box chain for carparts and stuff. Cheap and functional.
Then I bought a SEEED iron from Massdrop. Holy **** was there a difference! Night and day...

Not to mention the Seed is the size of a screwdriver while the 25W was the size of a huge wrench! Very highly recommended! Reaches 300C in seconds and is adjustable from 100 to 400 in 10s.

I second this. The SEEED iron is really impressive. Literally under 5 seconds to reach 300C. Size wise, slightly longer but comparable to a Pilot G2 pen.

My solder pump game used to be weak because I would heat the joint, remove soldering iron, and then try to hastily suck it up. 

Now I add solder if I need to, heat the joint, and while the soldering iron is in contact with the joint I suck up the solder right above the iron tip.  See if that helps you out as well.