#2) You are an animal! A Dremel???? Holy Crap! I did all my work with a drill bit for the initial hole, and hand filed the rest. You are a brute!
#3) The pcb damage is about 95% unavoidable. All my boards have it overlapping where the switch needs to be. Unlikely to not need to cut into it, but it could happen.
Thumb clusters are next. I want to shift with my thumbs to relieve the pinkies. Also, an extra modifier next to the T and Y keys to be hit with the index finger wouldn't be bad either.
By the way, I got these perforated PCBs that I can probably secure close to the thumb clusters with the thumb PCB screws, and could mount extra switches that way. We shall see.
The case will be dremel'ed as usual.
Added part 2 in the wiki: Adding thumb switches. Yes, my dremel was busy again. THIS SENTENCE HAS BEEN TYPED BY HOLDING DOWN MY NEW THUMB KEYS!
Added part 2 in the wiki: Adding thumb switches. Yes, my dremel was busy again. THIS SENTENCE HAS BEEN TYPED BY HOLDING DOWN MY NEW THUMB KEYS!
I'm having trouble deciding how to mod my next keyboard... should just get rid of the keywell mount, and put the new switches flush with the underside of Backspace and Enter keys? Since I would be using a perforated PCB again, it wouldn't be a problem to secure the keywell to that with a screw. My worry is that I might be confusing the new keys with space and backspace while typing, since they would be so close and feel almost identical.
The other option I'm considering is to mount them lower, to the base of the thumb (sort of like a palm key).
Has anyone attempted my mods yet, or variations to them? I'd love to hear about it!
I like what you did with the tipro. But you'll do a palmkey numpad? How is that possible, I don't think the palm can push more than 3-4 keys.
Ah, your palm keys will do layer switching. Neat!
I just realized I have a keyboard that is fully intact and open....I go find a wire and test right now.
On the right, 4+7 produces Escape (not sure what you mean by (Esc 1 2) and is remappable without interfering with the regular Escape,
Ooohhh...that would be awesome! Do it now!
What trackpoint? Laptop or desktop or-? Pics?
Hopefully the button feels precise, not too much slop :(
Haha sweet! I would need to print it and see how it fits, I think the plate to the right of the thumb key needs to be narrower though, otherwise it will hit against the thumbcluster PCB.
(Attachment) 42370[/ATTACH]
here is a dwg you can print to scale and see if it is right.
convert sordna_custom.pdf -flop sordna_custom_flip.pdf
If I overlay the page on a regular flat keyboard, the spacing is right. On the kinesis though it appears larger than I expected; which illustrates how the bowls' curve really puts the switches close together. I should glue the printout on a piece of cardboard to try it out, maybe even mount some switches and/or keycaps on the cardboard too ... anyone else tried it?
EDIT: Here is a gimped photo, with placement ideas for multiple arcade buttons. I wouldn't put so many of course, but up to 4 total is reasonable, and it's way easier than adding cherry switches. Thoughts? Ideas?
(Attachment) 43472[/ATTACH]
Pointing device. Yes, I now have wired the right palm key on both my LFs for keypad and with mouskeys I can do one-handed mousing. I find myself using it a lot more than if I had to hold down one of the kshifts with my pinky.
I must say I am very intrigued by the micro joystick uberben mentioned here (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:8110&p=540719&viewfull=1#post540719).
Other small joysticks are a possibility as well.
A blackberry trackball (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9320) could be something to consider too.
(Attachment) 43529[/ATTACH]
So you're still loving the palm keys? I still haven't done that mod but I think I'm going to order the keys right now.
As far as the wiki article...Soarer copied the pics before the rootworm incident, and emailed me the pics...so I can restore the article. When I do, I'll clean it up and make it a proper article rather than the 'thinking out loud' rambling mess that it is. I'm not sure when I can do this.
About the palm keys: Honeymoon is over, till death do us part is where it's at. Having them on both home and work keyboards I can testify:
They are wonderful. They are a necessity. They blow footswitches and extra pinky keys out of the water.
The key caps you are eliminating are DCS 1 and DCS 3 both 1.25x. They would be replaced with the same key caps but in a 1x width.I'm taking a bit of a gamble with the Round 4 sets, since the profiles are not all the same as the stock Kinesis, but I do want spherical caps if it's at all practical. My hope is that it will work out since the differences in cap heights (a millimeter or two) are small compared to the variation in sizes of hands that are able to use the stock board comfortably.
Cool! I'm noticing you placed them under the thumb clusters almost, do you push them with your thumb, or the palm ? The position you chose seems like it would work for both.
What kind of switches are in your Seimitsu switches?
Sordna, Where do you rest your palms when typing? since with the palm buttons use that area. Are you really never resting your arms while typing?
And Sordna, will you replace the ugly plastic Function keys??? The only downside I see is that it will raise the height of the keyboard a little more
Well, I'll wait for the weekend and finally dremel the Kinesis on your footsteps. :thumb:
I have had stacks of quarters taped to my case for about 3 months now. I moved them around a bit the first week, then they stayed put the rest of the time. I'll hunt around for a stepped drill bit and just do it.
Next steps: make it USB only, add 1/4" mono phone jacks to accept conventional midi keyboards sustain pedals (have so many of those) and thinking in making it bluetooth...
But, maybe leave that space for a small USB Hub? What do you guys think?
Nicely done. I didn't realize that boards that new even came as PS/2.
Huh. I thought this was doable, but it has been a long time since I used my actual foot switches, and I haven't used my palm keys in different positions yet. Perhaps your toggle switch idea is the better solution.
Hey Sordna,
Have you tried adding palm keys to your ErgoDox?
Hey Sordna,
Have you tried adding palm keys to your ErgoDox?
No, although I have thought about it many times. If you do it let me know!
sad thing is that those HBFS-30 switches are not on sale anywhere :(
sad thing is that those HBFS-30 switches are not on sale anywhere :(
Seems to be availlable here:
http://www.gamerfinger.com/
Adding palm buttons is badass! I'd love to add a couple to an Ergodox (there's room for two more keys on each PCB). The Ergodox already has custom firmware for NKRO (stenography!!!) and adding palm buttons would allow us to incorporate ideas from Velotype.
Plus I'm using the full hand case for the ergodox, so it really shouldn't be too hard, give or take some diodes and extra wiring...if anyone manages to do this mod, I'd love to know.
Plus I'm using the full hand case for the ergodox, so it really shouldn't be too hard, give or take some diodes and extra wiring...if anyone manages to do this mod, I'd love to know.
At Keycon there may be something like that being shown, but I'm not sure as of yet.
Do you still use ControllerMate?
Plus I'm using the full hand case for the ergodox, so it really shouldn't be too hard, give or take some diodes and extra wiring...if anyone manages to do this mod, I'd love to know.
At Keycon there may be something like that being shown, but I'm not sure as of yet.
Do you still use ControllerMate?
ControllerMate? Huh?
So is casing the only barrier to adding palm keys to the ergodox? The electronics is sound?
Hweller- Beautiful work on the Slimblade mod! How did you attach the ball cup to the Kinesis body? Did you sandwich the body between the chrome ring and the beige cup housing
What functions do you have the 6 buttons around the ball set up for?
When I actively type, I have my palms off the keyboard. It's the proper way to go to avoid RSI issues
My question is, does anyone have experience with all three solutions (thumb modifiers, palm modifiers and footswitches)? I am really interested in hearing your experiences. There are some keyboard mods on this thread with two palm buttons for each palm, does this mean you cannot rest your palms on keyboard? How usable are the palm buttons when the hand is reaching for numbers row keys?
My question is, does anyone have experience with all three solutions (thumb modifiers, palm modifiers and footswitches)? I am really interested in hearing your experiences. There are some keyboard mods on this thread with two palm buttons for each palm, does this mean you cannot rest your palms on keyboard? How usable are the palm buttons when the hand is reaching for numbers row keys?
First I tried footswitches then added pinky keys for keypad shift, then added additional thumb keys for shift and finally palm switches for both shift and keypad shift -- the palm switches will hands down!
Actually I found that when I hand the palm pads fitted I rested on them too much and started to get pain in the part of my palms below my pinkies and now I have the palm switches for shift I cannot rest my palms while typing which I find is much better and I don't get any pain in any parts of my hands.
P.S. Does anybody have a guide or picture series on replacing the rubber function keys with Cherry switches a la The Mothership?
I've gone through this thread numerous times over the past years, but now that I'm planning on doing the same thing, I finally realized how good of a guide it is! So thank you for it.
I'm wondering exactly where the diodes are going in part 4. I'm guessing they're going from pin x to the switch? So that current will go, for example, pin 1 ->| switch ---- pin 11?
Also, how much depth is available for the arcade buttons? You used PS-15 switches, but would one be able to fit PS-14 or Sanwa OBSF switches, which go about 10mm deeper?
My latest creationShow Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=36195.0;attach=109704;image)
That's a very WHITE Kinesis, LOL.
I'm on Tapatalk so I can't easily see your other pics, but did you install the buttons closer to the bottom edge of the keyboard?
I added the two joystick palm switches, and attempted to put them in the place of the footswitch connectors FS1 and FS2. I'm not sure where it went wrong, but the new buttons don't seem to do anything that I can tell....
How do you guys use these diodes?
upd: Found the answer in Section 4 of the guide. Did not really understand the logic so will follow the guide (cathode to the switch as in the picture).
If you made this mod, please share some pictures of the result!Thank you for the explanation! I am still in the middle of everything - added the trackpoint today, hope to add the buttons this week. I only need two extra buttons (plus 3 footswitch buttons of course) - could you please take a look at the picture and tell if I'm going in the right direction?
Thank you for the explanation! I am still in the middle of everything - added the trackpoint today, hope to add the buttons this week. I only need two extra buttons (plus 3 footswitch buttons of course) - could you please take a look at the picture and tell if I'm going in the right direction?
Thank you for pin 11 - indeed I missed that one!
As for pin 4, my soldering is not perfect and I prefer using through holes in PCB. I traced #4 to the nearest through hole and that's where I am going to solder the diode. I am just not 100% sure if I located #4 in your picture correctly.
Sordna - as requested in "Suggestions for Advantage keyboard".
:)
Buttons assignment (left to right):
Enter
Keypad
Alt-F4
F10 ("exit" in some of the programs I use quite often)
Esc
P.S. As for the trackpoint, I had to use a nail file to round one of the corners. For attachment, I used 3M VHB adhesive tape and PP granules (they melt at around 160C/320F), and you can easily clean this stuff off your soldering iron using a cotton swab while the iron is still hot.
Hi guys,
I keep getting a strange numpad button issue: when I press the button and try entering a numeric value nothing comes up.
I need to release and press the button again (sometimes even a couple of times) for it to start working.
Every time I press the button the numpad led lights up so I am sure the button is not at fault here.
Any ideas?
So if I just want to add two sets of buttons, I could just use the foot switch connections, correct (e.g, FS1 and FS2)?
Also, anyone know if the setup is same similar on Advantage2? I'll try this first on my Advantage but if it works well, I'd want want to do the same with my Advantage2.
Now, only if HBFS-30 would get back in stock.
sordna, is there any particular reason you went with Sanwa for 24mm buttons instead of Seimitsu buttons, like PS-14?
Have successfully added two arcade buttons to make Advantage. It appears I made minor errors on measurement so the locations are not quite same, but pretty close. I was going to do the same to Classic and Advantage2 when my kids came home so I'll have to wait till later.
EDIT - Got around to doing the same to Adv2. I guess I can't measure for **** - the one on the left is slightly lower again. Also, the button locations on Adv2 is lower than Adv1 as well.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i4Cci6R.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yx93jYB.jpg)
I haven't done this to my Classic yet since one of the Seimitsu PS-15 button i bought is sticking.
Nice work! I like your key caps too.
About the sticking button, you can open it up and see if it's the switch or the outer button sticking, in which case you could file it or something...
Here's my modded Advantage2 by the way:
Here you go, I used pair 1+6 for the left palm button (mappable as F24 in the v-drive) and 4+6 for the right (mappable as F22)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Hi guys,Two years and a gazillion of attempts later I figured it out.
I keep getting a strange numpad button issue: when I press the button and try entering a numeric value nothing comes up.
I need to release and press the button again (sometimes even a couple of times) for it to start working.
Every time I press the button the numpad led lights up so I am sure the button is not at fault here.
Any ideas?