Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3514095 times)

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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11800 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 14:17:38 »
I'm just trying to understand what I need to know when designing a PCB and Plate, I guess you can design a PCB that works with all 3 types? The plate would have to be specific to the type, I assume.

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Stabiliser#Cherry

The thing you have to account for with a PCB mounted Cherry is extra holes in the PCB. That's how the Cherry PCB mounted stabilizers work. They lock into the PCB. Cherry plate mounted fit into the plate. Look at the DT article for more detail.

JD has a plate cutout that will incorporate a Cherry or Costar stabilizer. It's definitely possible to make and pretty easy.

Offline joey

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11801 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 14:37:14 »
I'm just trying to understand what I need to know when designing a PCB and Plate, I guess you can design a PCB that works with all 3 types? The plate would have to be specific to the type, I assume.

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Stabiliser#Cherry

The thing you have to account for with a PCB mounted Cherry is extra holes in the PCB. That's how the Cherry PCB mounted stabilizers work. They lock into the PCB. Cherry plate mounted fit into the plate. Look at the DT article for more detail.

JD has a plate cutout that will incorporate a Cherry or Costar stabilizer. It's definitely possible to make and pretty easy.

Is there any advantage of plate vs PCB for Cherry stabs?

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11802 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 14:38:49 »
I'm just trying to understand what I need to know when designing a PCB and Plate, I guess you can design a PCB that works with all 3 types? The plate would have to be specific to the type, I assume.

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Stabiliser#Cherry

The thing you have to account for with a PCB mounted Cherry is extra holes in the PCB. That's how the Cherry PCB mounted stabilizers work. They lock into the PCB. Cherry plate mounted fit into the plate. Look at the DT article for more detail.

JD has a plate cutout that will incorporate a Cherry or Costar stabilizer. It's definitely possible to make and pretty easy.

Is there any advantage of plate vs PCB for Cherry stabs?

The only advantage is when you are designing the keyboard, and you can't fit the stabilizer holes in the PCB due to some switch locations. If you have a PCB that can accept PCB mount stabs, I'd use those every time.
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Offline joey

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11803 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 15:07:09 »
I'm just trying to understand what I need to know when designing a PCB and Plate, I guess you can design a PCB that works with all 3 types? The plate would have to be specific to the type, I assume.

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Stabiliser#Cherry

The thing you have to account for with a PCB mounted Cherry is extra holes in the PCB. That's how the Cherry PCB mounted stabilizers work. They lock into the PCB. Cherry plate mounted fit into the plate. Look at the DT article for more detail.

JD has a plate cutout that will incorporate a Cherry or Costar stabilizer. It's definitely possible to make and pretty easy.

Is there any advantage of plate vs PCB for Cherry stabs?

The only advantage is when you are designing the keyboard, and you can't fit the stabilizer holes in the PCB due to some switch locations. If you have a PCB that can accept PCB mount stabs, I'd use those every time.
Why? Better feel/stability?

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11804 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 15:11:29 »

The only advantage is when you are designing the keyboard, and you can't fit the stabilizer holes in the PCB due to some switch locations. If you have a PCB that can accept PCB mount stabs, I'd use those every time.

Why? Better feel/stability?

I'll take PCB mounted every time. I've ripped out plate mounted stabilizers before. Never ripped out PCB mounted.

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11805 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 15:14:11 »

The only advantage is when you are designing the keyboard, and you can't fit the stabilizer holes in the PCB due to some switch locations. If you have a PCB that can accept PCB mount stabs, I'd use those every time.

Why? Better feel/stability?

I'll take PCB mounted every time. I've ripped out plate mounted stabilizers before. Never ripped out PCB mounted.

I used to rip out the PCB mount stabilizers on my Poker X all the time. :D

If the plate mount stabilizer holes don't have the notches to accomodate Costar stabs as well, there is little chance of pulling them out of the plate unintentionally. They clip in really well.

That said, I still prefer the feel of PCB mount stabs over plate mount.
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Offline joey

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11806 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 15:36:43 »
Thanks for the input CptJD and BadassCarpe!

Offline ideus

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11807 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 16:44:34 »

The only advantage is when you are designing the keyboard, and you can't fit the stabilizer holes in the PCB due to some switch locations. If you have a PCB that can accept PCB mount stabs, I'd use those every time.

Why? Better feel/stability?

I'll take PCB mounted every time. I've ripped out plate mounted stabilizers before. Never ripped out PCB mounted.

I used to rip out the PCB mount stabilizers on my Poker X all the time. :D

If the plate mount stabilizer holes don't have the notches to accomodate Costar stabs as well, there is little chance of pulling them out of the plate unintentionally. They clip in really well.

That said, I still prefer the feel of PCB mount stabs over plate mount.


Do you prefer them because of its feeling?

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11808 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 16:46:36 »

The only advantage is when you are designing the keyboard, and you can't fit the stabilizer holes in the PCB due to some switch locations. If you have a PCB that can accept PCB mount stabs, I'd use those every time.

Why? Better feel/stability?

I'll take PCB mounted every time. I've ripped out plate mounted stabilizers before. Never ripped out PCB mounted.

I used to rip out the PCB mount stabilizers on my Poker X all the time. :D

If the plate mount stabilizer holes don't have the notches to accomodate Costar stabs as well, there is little chance of pulling them out of the plate unintentionally. They clip in really well.

That said, I still prefer the feel of PCB mount stabs over plate mount.


Do you prefer them because of its feeling?

Yes, I do. And also because they seem to mount to the PCB easier than plate mount do to a plate. There is always some fiddling required with plate mount stabs to get them seated just right.
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Offline ideus

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11809 on: Wed, 25 March 2015, 16:49:23 »

The only advantage is when you are designing the keyboard, and you can't fit the stabilizer holes in the PCB due to some switch locations. If you have a PCB that can accept PCB mount stabs, I'd use those every time.

Why? Better feel/stability?

I'll take PCB mounted every time. I've ripped out plate mounted stabilizers before. Never ripped out PCB mounted.

I used to rip out the PCB mount stabilizers on my Poker X all the time. :D

If the plate mount stabilizer holes don't have the notches to accomodate Costar stabs as well, there is little chance of pulling them out of the plate unintentionally. They clip in really well.

That said, I still prefer the feel of PCB mount stabs over plate mount.


Do you prefer them because of its feeling?

Yes, I do. And also because they seem to mount to the PCB easier than plate mount do to a plate. There is always some fiddling required with plate mount stabs to get them seated just right.


Interesting. I will put together a Nerd60 soon, and the only thing I am not sure about are precisely the PCB stabilizers. Thank you for the feedback, I will give them a try.

Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11810 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 05:17:40 »
Hey, is there a list of recommended keyboards for each switch/company/price point? There is so many to choose from nowadays and by being out of the loop i have no clue which brand is reliable for the price as i hear build quality might have changed due to manufacturing and what not.

There should be an updated list where you can fill out a questionnaire and at the end it will generate you a list of what brand/switch that matches your requirements - that would be awesome lol. ex: backlit, sub $100 price point, clicky or tactile, tkl, etc.

Offline azhdar

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11811 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 05:22:05 »
Hey, is there a list of recommended keyboards for each switch/company/price point? There is so many to choose from nowadays and by being out of the loop i have no clue which brand is reliable for the price as i hear build quality might have changed due to manufacturing and what not.

There should be an updated list where you can fill out a questionnaire and at the end it will generate you a list of what brand/switch that matches your requirements - that would be awesome lol. ex: backlit, sub $100 price point, clicky or tactile, tkl, etc.
https://www.keychatter.com/buyers-guide/
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Offline oledome

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11812 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 08:12:16 »
1) Would a PCB for MX switches fit both G80 and G81 housings the same?
2) What are my 1800 PCB ISO options right now?
3) Is modding an existing G80 PCB an option? More expensive for the keyboard but I don't have to look for a PCB if that is the case.

1) Maybe, it really depends on the case. For example, a G80-8XXX PCB wouldn't fit in a a G81-3XXX case.
2) Only PCBs I know of are ISO 1800s. There's no aftermarket PCBs besides the Leeku one.
3) Yes. Check this thread out from DT or Infiniti's thread out
Thanks that helps, since my PCB options are what they are I guess buying a G81-1800 and modding it is the way to go. Between the G80 and G81, I was talking about the 1800 specifically and whether both housings would be the same, I should have been more specific.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11813 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 08:49:35 »
Hey, is there a list of recommended keyboards for each switch/company/price point? There is so many to choose from nowadays and by being out of the loop i have no clue which brand is reliable for the price as i hear build quality might have changed due to manufacturing and what not.

There should be an updated list where you can fill out a questionnaire and at the end it will generate you a list of what brand/switch that matches your requirements - that would be awesome lol. ex: backlit, sub $100 price point, clicky or tactile, tkl, etc.
https://www.keychatter.com/buyers-guide/

In addition, mashby's site has a decent 60% list and reddit has a few buying guides.

In general, the questionnaire isn't a bad idea. But I think it's a little like going to SEMA or Sturgis and asking someone there what a good car or bike is. You're going to get really passionate, opinionated responses which may or may not help you. Researching for stuff that you care about will help you more in my opinion. For example, if you like backlighting, then you may want to look into Ducky keyboards. But some people despise backlighting and will tell you to stay away from it.

Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11814 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 14:45:15 »
Hey, is there a list of recommended keyboards for each switch/company/price point? There is so many to choose from nowadays and by being out of the loop i have no clue which brand is reliable for the price as i hear build quality might have changed due to manufacturing and what not.

There should be an updated list where you can fill out a questionnaire and at the end it will generate you a list of what brand/switch that matches your requirements - that would be awesome lol. ex: backlit, sub $100 price point, clicky or tactile, tkl, etc.
https://www.keychatter.com/buyers-guide/

Thanks for that.

Hey, is there a list of recommended keyboards for each switch/company/price point? There is so many to choose from nowadays and by being out of the loop i have no clue which brand is reliable for the price as i hear build quality might have changed due to manufacturing and what not.

There should be an updated list where you can fill out a questionnaire and at the end it will generate you a list of what brand/switch that matches your requirements - that would be awesome lol. ex: backlit, sub $100 price point, clicky or tactile, tkl, etc.
https://www.keychatter.com/buyers-guide/

In addition, mashby's site has a decent 60% list and reddit has a few buying guides.

In general, the questionnaire isn't a bad idea. But I think it's a little like going to SEMA or Sturgis and asking someone there what a good car or bike is. You're going to get really passionate, opinionated responses which may or may not help you. Researching for stuff that you care about will help you more in my opinion. For example, if you like backlighting, then you may want to look into Ducky keyboards. But some people despise backlighting and will tell you to stay away from it.

Yeah i understand since everyone's opinion is different, what i meant is that the keyboards suggested has user submitted reviews or some type of voting system and not have "one" user recommend keyboards for all. Kind of a general community review for which keyboard is the best with backlighting, tkl, blue keycaps, etc. Like there would be a poll and people would vote for this criteria of keyboard, then they would vote on the next criteria. Best build quality, with backlight, full size, then same thing but with 60%, then TKL, etc if the certain company doesn't offer it in all sizes. Usually the keyboards come in a different variety of switches so the switches shouldn't be listed.

I make it sound like it's so easy but it's not, but if enough work is put into it then i could see it helping a lot of people out that are new to the mechanical keyboard scene or if they've been out of the loop for too long.




Offline HPE1000

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11815 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 19:34:55 »
Is there any shop/place where I can buy cherry pcb mount stabilizers for a numpad?

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11816 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 19:36:49 »
Is there any shop/place where I can buy cherry pcb mount stabilizers for a numpad?

GON
imsto
Mouser might still
Classifieds

I really wish there was a source Stateside for stabilizers. AFAIK, Mouser is out of stock and I heard GON and imsto's shipping fees are crazy.

Offline ideus

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11817 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 19:58:06 »
Is there any shop/place where I can buy cherry pcb mount stabilizers for a numpad?

GON
imsto
Mouser might still
Classifieds

I really wish there was a source Stateside for stabilizers. AFAIK, Mouser is out of stock and I heard GON and imsto's shipping fees are crazy.


GON's a TKL set, though.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11818 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 20:02:04 »
Check Arrow, this was where I found some last time a few months ago.  Just search by Cherry's part number
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11819 on: Thu, 26 March 2015, 22:34:02 »
Is there any shop/place where I can buy cherry pcb mount stabilizers for a numpad?

GON
imsto
Mouser might still
Classifieds

I really wish there was a source Stateside for stabilizers. AFAIK, Mouser is out of stock and I heard GON and imsto's shipping fees are crazy.

The new Winkeyless store has some too: http://winkeyless.kr/?product=cherry-pcb-mount-stabilizers

Offline ctm

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11820 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 19:25:43 »
Is there a way to prevent ABS keycaps from getting sticky? My hands sweat quite a bit. As a result, my keycaps often feel a little sticky even if I wash my hands and wipe the keycaps pretty often. PBT seems to solve this problem but it's hard to find PBT caps for my V60 with Matias switches.
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Offline BlueNalgene

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11821 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 21:00:54 »
I'm trying to make a PS2 to USB converter for my Model M.  I was using a Teensy 2.0 with the TMK Firmware, but I may have accidentally destroyed the traces on the Teensy.

Now I have one of the new Teensy LC things.  So I need something that works with the ARM architecture.  This will be my first time tangling with ARM instead of atMEGA.  I might be able to adapt something that has previously worked with the Teensy 3.x versions.  Any thoughts on what I should try?

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11822 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 21:09:36 »
I'm trying to make a PS2 to USB converter for my Model M.  I was using a Teensy 2.0 with the TMK Firmware, but I may have accidentally destroyed the traces on the Teensy.

Now I have one of the new Teensy LC things.  So I need something that works with the ARM architecture.  This will be my first time tangling with ARM instead of atMEGA.  I might be able to adapt something that has previously worked with the Teensy 3.x versions.  Any thoughts on what I should try?
Why not just buy one?

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Offline jonathanyu

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11823 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 21:26:38 »


What are the sizes of the bottom row keycaps in this JIS filco?

Where can I buy the feet for this case?

Offline BlueNalgene

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11824 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 21:27:21 »
I'm trying to make a PS2 to USB converter for my Model M.  I was using a Teensy 2.0 with the TMK Firmware, but I may have accidentally destroyed the traces on the Teensy.

Now I have one of the new Teensy LC things.  So I need something that works with the ARM architecture.  This will be my first time tangling with ARM instead of atMEGA.  I might be able to adapt something that has previously worked with the Teensy 3.x versions.  Any thoughts on what I should try?
Why not just buy one?

1. That is no fun
2. It actually hashad an SDL connection.  I want to hardwire something internally doesn't require a spare donglemajig.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11825 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 21:29:08 »
I'm trying to make a PS2 to USB converter for my Model M.  I was using a Teensy 2.0 with the TMK Firmware, but I may have accidentally destroyed the traces on the Teensy.

Now I have one of the new Teensy LC things.  So I need something that works with the ARM architecture.  This will be my first time tangling with ARM instead of atMEGA.  I might be able to adapt something that has previously worked with the Teensy 3.x versions.  Any thoughts on what I should try?
Why not just buy one?

1. That is no fun
2. It actually hashad an SDL connection.  I want to hardwire something internally doesn't require a spare donglemajig.
No fun maybe, but it was a simple answer!

You may be better off asking this in one of the making stuff forums.

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IBM Rubber Band "Floss" Mod | Click Modding Alps 101 | Flame-Polishing Cherry MX Stems
Review: hasu's USB to USB converter
My boards:
More
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Offline BlueNalgene

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11826 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 21:30:33 »
I'm trying to make a PS2 to USB converter for my Model M.  I was using a Teensy 2.0 with the TMK Firmware, but I may have accidentally destroyed the traces on the Teensy.

Now I have one of the new Teensy LC things.  So I need something that works with the ARM architecture.  This will be my first time tangling with ARM instead of atMEGA.  I might be able to adapt something that has previously worked with the Teensy 3.x versions.  Any thoughts on what I should try?
Why not just buy one?

1. That is no fun
2. It actually hashad an SDL connection.  I want to hardwire something internally doesn't require a spare donglemajig.
No fun maybe, but it was a simple answer!

You may be better off asking this in one of the making stuff forums.

Fair 'nuff.  Thanks for extending the effort to help.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11827 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 23:18:12 »
Show Image


What are the sizes of the bottom row keycaps in this JIS filco?

Based on that picture, it looks to be: 1.25 - 1 - 1.25 - 1 - 4.5 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1 - 1.25

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11828 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 23:50:04 »
Is there a way to prevent ABS keycaps from getting sticky? My hands sweat quite a bit. As a result, my keycaps often feel a little sticky even if I wash my hands and wipe the keycaps pretty often. PBT seems to solve this problem but it's hard to find PBT caps for my V60 with Matias switches.

You could try painting the caps with clear nail polish.

I'm trying to make a PS2 to USB converter for my Model M.  I was using a Teensy 2.0 with the TMK Firmware, but I may have accidentally destroyed the traces on the Teensy.

Now I have one of the new Teensy LC things.  So I need something that works with the ARM architecture.  This will be my first time tangling with ARM instead of atMEGA.  I might be able to adapt something that has previously worked with the Teensy 3.x versions.  Any thoughts on what I should try?

I have no idea what a Teensy LC even is. And I think that's far beyond the scope of this thread. I suggest you create a new thread for that.

On a side note, orihalcon sells SDL to USB cables. But they're a little pricey.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11829 on: Fri, 27 March 2015, 23:56:38 »
Is there a way to prevent ABS keycaps from getting sticky? My hands sweat quite a bit. As a result, my keycaps often feel a little sticky even if I wash my hands and wipe the keycaps pretty often. PBT seems to solve this problem but it's hard to find PBT caps for my V60 with Matias switches.

You could try painting the caps with clear nail polish.


If you don't need the legends you could try plastidip from a rattle can.  If you don't like it, it just peels right off. 

CBA, essentially the Teensy LC is a 3.x with some features removed but still ARM based vs Atmega based.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11830 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 00:01:39 »
CBA, essentially the Teensy LC is a 3.x with some features removed but still ARM based vs Atmega based.

I'm sleepy as hell so bear with me and my shoddy memory. I seem to recall that the 3.x Teensy's were a no-go for a controller or anything keyboard related. Am I mistaken?

Offline derezzed

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11831 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 00:19:10 »
Show Image


What are the sizes of the bottom row keycaps in this JIS filco?

Based on that picture, it looks to be: 1.25 - 1 - 1.25 - 1 - 4.5 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1 - 1.25

The space bar looks like 4u, to me.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11832 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 00:20:59 »
CBA, essentially the Teensy LC is a 3.x with some features removed but still ARM based vs Atmega based.

I'm sleepy as hell so bear with me and my shoddy memory. I seem to recall that the 3.x Teensy's were a no-go for a controller or anything keyboard related. Am I mistaken?

It has been done but not near as common, and I don't think any of them have been popular mostly due to cost of the boards, and no generic knock offs out that I have seen.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline nightdriver

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11833 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 00:59:54 »
really dumb question, but i just got my PMK relegendable keycaps and... i can't figure out how i'm supposed to get the polycarbonate cover back off the keycap.  any suggestions?
« Last Edit: Sat, 28 March 2015, 14:00:51 by nightdriver »

Offline jonathanyu

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11834 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 01:37:10 »
Show Image


What are the sizes of the bottom row keycaps in this JIS filco?

Based on that picture, it looks to be: 1.25 - 1 - 1.25 - 1 - 4.5 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1 - 1.25

The space bar looks like 4u, to me.

Thanks!  I believe it is 4.5u, because the total unit should be 15

Offline derezzed

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11835 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 01:58:54 »
Show Image


What are the sizes of the bottom row keycaps in this JIS filco?

Based on that picture, it looks to be: 1.25 - 1 - 1.25 - 1 - 4.5 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1 - 1.25

The space bar looks like 4u, to me.

Thanks!  I believe it is 4.5u, because the total unit should be 15

My bad.  I misjudged something incorrectly when measuring the row above it.  I should have just checked the number row to get the total number of units.

Offline Ludovician

  • Posts: 330
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11836 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 10:32:33 »
I have a question for anyone who has a bolt-modded Model M.

I've been looking into it for a day or two, since I noticed my M has lost a bunch of rivets (12) but all the keys currently still work. I'm feeling like I should bolt-mod it. There's one thing someone said in passing that I would like to confirm. Does the bolt mod prevent the board from laying flat on the desk without the feet extended? I always use my keyboards flat, so that might somewhat ruin it for me.

Also, approximately how much do the supplies and tools cost to do it? Is there much risk of damaging the board if I don't have any experience with drilling?
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HHKB Pro 2 (Blank, white) | HHKB Pro 2 Type-S (Blank, white) | Topre Realforce 87UB silent-modded (not currently functional) | Das Keyboard Model S Professional Silent (MX Brown) | IBM Model M 1391401 - 9th January 1991 (Bolt+Floss-modded) | Apple keyboard m0116 (Orange Alps) | Unidentified DIN Keyboard (White Alps) | ADDS 1010 (Green Alps) | AEK II (Linear-modded, USB-converted) | IBM PC-AT Model F | Noppoo Choc Mini (MX Black) | Amstrad PC2286 | BigKeys LX | IBM Model M 1391401 - 6th September 1990 | IBM Model M2 1395300 - 28th February 1991 | Leopold FC660C | Cherry G80-11802 (MX Brown) | Matias Tactile Pro (Simplfied grey Alps) | Razer Blackwidow (MX Blue) | Novatouch 55g | Focus FK-2001 (White alps) | DSE Multitech (Blue alps) | Dell AT101W (Matias quiet) | Pok3r (White w/Clears) | KBP V80 (Blue Alps)

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Offline infiniti

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11837 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 11:21:20 »
I have a question for anyone who has a bolt-modded Model M.

I've been looking into it for a day or two, since I noticed my M has lost a bunch of rivets (12) but all the keys currently still work. I'm feeling like I should bolt-mod it. There's one thing someone said in passing that I would like to confirm.

Read this by jdcarpre: How I Learned to Love the IBM Model M Keyboard... Again! or Why Bolt Modding is a Valuable Service


== == == == ==

Does the bolt mod prevent the board from laying flat on the desk without the feet extended? I always use my keyboards flat, so that might somewhat ruin it for me.

The bolts go on the internals so it won't affect the way the keyboard sits on a desk.

== == == == ==

Also, approximately how much do the supplies and tools cost to do it?

For my bolt mod, I followed dorkvader's guide and the GH wiki (cached since it is down).

I used the following:
- 5.5mm or 7/32" thin-walled nut driver to open the case
- 4mm socket to remove the ground
- a chisel to remove the other rivets
- a Dremel
- a dremel bit with a rounded tip
- a 1/16" drill bit

The wiki listed the following parts:
- 87 x M2 Screw, 8mm Length, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr 92005A029)
- 87 x M2 Nut, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr 90592A004)
- 87 x M2 Washer (McMaster Carr 93475A196)

Locally, I purchased a stainless steel M2 8mm screw, nut, and washer set at PHP 6.00 (~US$ 0.14) per set.

== == == == ==

Is there much risk of damaging the board if I don't have any experience with drilling?

Well, drilling is done on the barrel plate with everything disassembled so...worst case, I think you could mess up drilling and damage the barrel plate.

Offline Ludovician

  • Posts: 330
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11838 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 12:00:21 »
Quote
The bolts go on the internals so it won't affect the way the keyboard sits on a desk.

Thanks for confirming this. I didn't think it made sense when I saw someone say that.
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HHKB Pro 2 (Blank, white) | HHKB Pro 2 Type-S (Blank, white) | Topre Realforce 87UB silent-modded (not currently functional) | Das Keyboard Model S Professional Silent (MX Brown) | IBM Model M 1391401 - 9th January 1991 (Bolt+Floss-modded) | Apple keyboard m0116 (Orange Alps) | Unidentified DIN Keyboard (White Alps) | ADDS 1010 (Green Alps) | AEK II (Linear-modded, USB-converted) | IBM PC-AT Model F | Noppoo Choc Mini (MX Black) | Amstrad PC2286 | BigKeys LX | IBM Model M 1391401 - 6th September 1990 | IBM Model M2 1395300 - 28th February 1991 | Leopold FC660C | Cherry G80-11802 (MX Brown) | Matias Tactile Pro (Simplfied grey Alps) | Razer Blackwidow (MX Blue) | Novatouch 55g | Focus FK-2001 (White alps) | DSE Multitech (Blue alps) | Dell AT101W (Matias quiet) | Pok3r (White w/Clears) | KBP V80 (Blue Alps)

Pending:
Infinity kit

Offline njbair

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11839 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 12:09:41 »
Quote
The bolts go on the internals so it won't affect the way the keyboard sits on a desk.

Thanks for confirming this. I didn't think it made sense when I saw someone say that.
Sometimes the bolts towards the bottom/front have been known to press against the case and warp it, if the mod was not done properly. This could be why some bolt modded boards wouldn't sit flat. But as long as everything fits during reassembly without jamming it, everything should be fine.

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AEKII 60% | Alps64 HHKB | Ducky Shine 3, MX Blues | IBM Model M #1391401, Nov. 1990 | IBM SSK #1391472, Nov. 1987, screw modded, rubber-band modded | Noppoo EC108-Pro, 45g | Infinity 60% v2 Hacker, Matias Quiet Pros | Infinity 60% v2 Standard, MX Browns | Cherry G80-1800LPCEU-2, MX Blacks | Cherry G80-1813 (Dolch), MX Blues | Unicomp M-122, ANSI-modded | Unicomp M-122 (Unsaver mod in progress) | 2x Unitek K-258, White Alps | Apple boards (IIGS, AEKII) | Varmilo VA87MR, Gateron Blacks | Filco Zero TKL, Fukka White Alps | Planck, Gateron Browns | Monarch, click-modded Cream Alps

Offline infiniti

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11840 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 12:23:57 »
Quote
The bolts go on the internals so it won't affect the way the keyboard sits on a desk.

Thanks for confirming this. I didn't think it made sense when I saw someone say that.
Sometimes the bolts towards the bottom/front have been known to press against the case and warp it, if the mod was not done properly. This could be why some bolt modded boards wouldn't sit flat. But as long as everything fits during reassembly without jamming it, everything should be fine.

I remember I had to flip a few bolts (nut in front on the barrel plate and bolt from the rear) on the front so I could insert the assembly into the notches on the inside of the case.  I'll update this with a picture tomorrow to better explain this.

Offline FoC_Tow

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11841 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 12:46:00 »
I posted a couple of questions regarding ordering a Nerd60 PCB and NS Crystal Case in GONs sub forum.

Any help is very much appreciated!  :)

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11842 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 13:10:19 »
I posted a couple of questions regarding ordering a Nerd60 PCB and NS Crystal Case in GONs sub forum.

Any help is very much appreciated!  :)
Please don't cross post like that in this thread. GON will get you sorted :).

Offline FoC_Tow

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11843 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 14:03:48 »
Please don't cross post like that in this thread. GON will get you sorted :).

I'm sorry CPT...  :-[ Thx for telling me, won't do it again.
(didn't know it's not ok in this thread and thought it might be appropriate since its the most popular place to post questions)

Also thx, I'll try to reach GON!  :)


Offline asgeirtj

  • Posts: 535
  • Location: Iceland
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11844 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 17:04:09 »
Does anyone use very thick GH lube anywhere on their tactile cherry mx switches?  Seems like everyone just uses thick.  I saw that ming on the mx lubing thread recommended very thick on the front of the stem, anyone do that?

Also, is very thick maybe better than thick on stabilizers?

I've been reading a lot on lubing methods but seems there is a lot of conflicting information, what do you think if this lubing strategy?:

I'm lubing mx clears, i lube the top and bottom of the spring just barely with GH spring lube, just make it wet, the lube doesn't show after application.  I lube the sides of the stem pretty well, apply generously, with gh thick lube.  On the front of the stem i put some but a lot less.  I don't lube any of the lower housing since it's really just the same places as the stem.  (however ming says that the bottom channels and not the sides of stem are worth lubing, i see this as the one and same place, why are the channels prefered?)
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Offline jonathanyu

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11845 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 17:29:24 »
Where can I find a 4.5u spacebar in either Cherry or DCS profile?

Offline njbair

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11846 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 17:32:38 »
Where can I find a 4.5u spacebar in either Cherry or DCS profile?
If you call Signature Plastics you can ask about having one made. jdcarpe recently called them and learned that they can make any size in either DCS or DSA.

Of course, just one will cost you an arm and a leg.

Alpine Winter GB | My Personal TMK Firmware Repo
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My boards:
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AEKII 60% | Alps64 HHKB | Ducky Shine 3, MX Blues | IBM Model M #1391401, Nov. 1990 | IBM SSK #1391472, Nov. 1987, screw modded, rubber-band modded | Noppoo EC108-Pro, 45g | Infinity 60% v2 Hacker, Matias Quiet Pros | Infinity 60% v2 Standard, MX Browns | Cherry G80-1800LPCEU-2, MX Blacks | Cherry G80-1813 (Dolch), MX Blues | Unicomp M-122, ANSI-modded | Unicomp M-122 (Unsaver mod in progress) | 2x Unitek K-258, White Alps | Apple boards (IIGS, AEKII) | Varmilo VA87MR, Gateron Blacks | Filco Zero TKL, Fukka White Alps | Planck, Gateron Browns | Monarch, click-modded Cream Alps

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11847 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 18:51:00 »
I'm trying to make a PS2 to USB converter for my Model M.  I was using a Teensy 2.0 with the TMK Firmware, but I may have accidentally destroyed the traces on the Teensy.

Now I have one of the new Teensy LC things.  So I need something that works with the ARM architecture.  This will be my first time tangling with ARM instead of atMEGA.  I might be able to adapt something that has previously worked with the Teensy 3.x versions.  Any thoughts on what I should try?

Check out my useful thread in Making Stuff Together! Super Awesome Tools and Resources Made By Users!

What you want is this: Kiibohd Controller Firmware



Where can I find a 4.5u spacebar in either Cherry or DCS profile?
If you call Signature Plastics you can ask about having one made. jdcarpe recently called them and learned that they can make any size in either DCS or DSA.

Of course, just one will cost you an arm and a leg.

SP actually does have a mold for 4.5u spacebars in DCS family. But I'm not sure they will make you just one. I'm guessing that 25 of them would cost you around $4-ish each.

http://solutionsinplastic.com/pdfs/DCSFamily.pdf
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

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Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11848 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 19:02:06 »
I'm trying to make a PS2 to USB converter for my Model M.  I was using a Teensy 2.0 with the TMK Firmware, but I may have accidentally destroyed the traces on the Teensy.

Now I have one of the new Teensy LC things.  So I need something that works with the ARM architecture.  This will be my first time tangling with ARM instead of atMEGA.  I might be able to adapt something that has previously worked with the Teensy 3.x versions.  Any thoughts on what I should try?

Check out my useful thread in Making Stuff Together! Super Awesome Tools and Resources Made By Users!

What you want is this: Kiibohd Controller Firmware



Where can I find a 4.5u spacebar in either Cherry or DCS profile?
If you call Signature Plastics you can ask about having one made. jdcarpe recently called them and learned that they can make any size in either DCS or DSA.

Of course, just one will cost you an arm and a leg.

SP actually does have a mold for 4.5u spacebars in DCS family. But I'm not sure they will make you just one. I'm guessing that 25 of them would cost you around $4-ish each.

http://solutionsinplastic.com/pdfs/DCSFamily.pdf

Llast time I talked to them, minimum order was $100 for anything that has to be manufactured regardless of volume.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #11849 on: Sat, 28 March 2015, 19:13:12 »
Llast time I talked to them, minimum order was $100 for anything that has to be manufactured regardless of volume.

I'm sure this is correct.
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in memoriam

"When I was a kid, I used to take things apart and never put them back together."