Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[asgeirtj]

Has anyone done a variable weighting Cherry MX mod a'la Topre style?  And if not, doesn't that mean that this variable weighting idea is probably not good?

[SpAmRaY]

Has anyone done a variable weighting Cherry MX mod a'la Topre style?  And if not, doesn't that mean that this variable weighting idea is probably not good?

I've seen a few permutations of variable cherry but none to the extent of variable topre.

[jonathanyu]

Llast time I talked to them, minimum order was $100 for anything that has to be manufactured regardless of volume.

I'm sure this is correct.

ouch, I guess I need to buy 25then

[njbair]

Llast time I talked to them, minimum order was $100 for anything that has to be manufactured regardless of volume.

I'm sure this is correct.

ouch, I guess I need to buy 25then

What is this for? Unless it's for a completely one-off custom thing you can probably find at least one other buyer.

[CPTBadAss]

Has anyone done a variable weighting Cherry MX mod a'la Topre style?  And if not, doesn't that mean that this variable weighting idea is probably not good?

I've never seen this. I personally hate if a keyboard doesn't have uniform switches so I haven't bothered with it. Doesn't mean it's a bad idea. Some people claim it's good for ergonomics.

Does anyone use very thick GH lube anywhere on their tactile cherry mx switches?  Seems like everyone just uses thick.  I saw that ming on the mx lubing thread recommended very thick on the front of the stem, anyone do that?

Also, is very thick maybe better than thick on stabilizers?

I've been reading a lot on lubing methods but seems there is a lot of conflicting information, what do you think if this lubing strategy?:

I'm lubing mx clears, i lube the top and bottom of the spring just barely with GH spring lube, just make it wet, the lube doesn't show after application.  I lube the sides of the stem pretty well, apply generously, with gh thick lube.  On the front of the stem i put some but a lot less.  I don't lube any of the lower housing since it's really just the same places as the stem.  (however ming says that the bottom channels and not the sides of stem are worth lubing, i see this as the one and same place, why are the channels prefered?)

Lubing strategy? Lube it one way, test it, see if you like it, then adjust accordingly.

I lube all the friction points as shown in MMB's guide as well as around the housing. So the faces where the legs are and opposite the face.

I think you're over thinking lubing. Just apply it all round the stem and underneath if you like. I don't bother mixing different types of lube for different areas because I don't think it matters. Thick for clears, very thick for Topre, and I just mix until I'm happy with the viscosity for linears.

[alienman82]

removed.

[CPTBadAss]

why are the realforce topre keypads so expensive??? (even for topre)

Niche product (keypad) for a niche demographic (Topre Users) for a niche market (mechanical keyboards)

[whentheclouds]

is powder coating the only option to change the color of an anodized alu housing? i read that the process involves stripping the anodization off, curious as to how this is done.

[KnivesM]

is powder coating the only option to change the color of an anodized alu housing? i read that the process involves stripping the anodization off, curious as to how this is done.

No, you can re-anodize metal housings, plastic can only be painted or plasti-dipped.

[njbair]

is powder coating the only option to change the color of an anodized alu housing? i read that the process involves stripping the anodization off, curious as to how this is done.

Pretty much any anodize shop can strip anodize, because that's what they have to do if they mess something up the first time. But, just know that this will slightly change the size of the housing, since the anodize isn't an additive coating (like paint), but it actually chemically alters the outer layers of aluminum molecules. So removing that first anodize "shell" shrinks the part.

EDIT: Just to be clear, anodize does add to the overall size but it also penetrates inward a bit (unlike paint).

[whentheclouds]

No, you can re-anodize metal housings, plastic can only be painted or plasti-dipped.

re-anodizing (i.e. adding a second layer of anodize on top) is not a good idea from what i've read. paint should work fine though, i forgot you can do that

Pretty much any anodize shop can strip anodize, because that's what they have to do if they mess something up the first time. But, just know that this will slightly change the size of the housing, since the anodize isn't an additive coating (like paint), but it actually chemically alters the outer layers of aluminum molecules. So removing that first anodize "shell" shrinks the part.

EDIT: Just to be clear, anodize does add to the overall size but it also penetrates inward a bit (unlike paint).

none of the links i read mentioned this part, thanks! what i'm trying to do is to recreate the two-tone Orion look on my Octagon: (blue and black in place of silver). would you also recommend paint for this purpose?

[CPTBadAss]

No, you can re-anodize metal housings, plastic can only be painted or plasti-dipped.

re-anodizing (i.e. adding a second layer of anodize on top) is not a good idea from what i've read. paint should work fine though, i forgot you can do that

Pretty much any anodize shop can strip anodize, because that's what they have to do if they mess something up the first time. But, just know that this will slightly change the size of the housing, since the anodize isn't an additive coating (like paint), but it actually chemically alters the outer layers of aluminum molecules. So removing that first anodize "shell" shrinks the part.

EDIT: Just to be clear, anodize does add to the overall size but it also penetrates inward a bit (unlike paint).

none of the links i read mentioned this part, thanks! what i'm trying to do is to recreate the two-tone Orion look on my Octagon: (blue and black in place of silver). would you also recommend paint for this purpose?

Show Image

Pretty sure you can just remove the anodization layer then anodize again with the dyes of your choice. IE get the top half anodized with grey dye and the bottom with blue dye. For better information than reading online, you could always call a local anodization shop and ask them for more details.

Edit: Photoelectric re-anodized an LZ-GH and I've never heard any complaints.

[whentheclouds]

^ that is one heck of a compelling read. as to your suggestion, i'd like to retain the blue gray color somehow, it seems very hard to reproduce. i'll see if it's possible to just strip the anodizing off half of the board, and if not i'll resort to paint. but yes i'll definitely get in touch with some anodizing shops for details

[katushkin]

Does anybody know what the effect would be if you put clear switch tops (eg from a Gateron) on a switch with front mounted LEDs?or can you not put LEDs through gaterons?

I just realised I would have to unsolder all the LEDs... 

I should probably learn how to solder and de-solder...

[infiniti]

The bolts go on the internals so it won't affect the way the keyboard sits on a desk.

Thanks for confirming this. I didn't think it made sense when I saw someone say that.

Sometimes the bolts towards the bottom/front have been known to press against the case and warp it, if the mod was not done properly. This could be why some bolt modded boards wouldn't sit flat. But as long as everything fits during reassembly without jamming it, everything should be fine.

I remember I had to flip a few bolts (nut in front on the barrel plate and bolt from the rear) on the front so I could insert the assembly into the notches on the inside of the case.  I'll update this with a picture tomorrow to better explain this.

The nut and bolt in red had to be reversed so that it is flush on the bottom side.  This allows the assembly to slide into the clips on the inside of the case (in green).

[Ludovician]

I appreciate the picture. Thanks.

Also looks like that board was better cleaned than mine:

More

Sorry for potato.

I probably could have done a better job.

[infiniti]

I appreciate the picture. Thanks.

Also looks like that board was better cleaned than mine:

More

Sorry for potato.

Show Image

I probably could have done a better job.

You're welcome!

I must admit to some light brushing before that picture was taken. :p

[Ludovician]

I just opened mine two days ago to clean it for the first time since I got it. I was surprised how little filth was in it considering its age.

It could have been a lot worse.

I decided that I need to bolt-mod it because 12 rivet ends fell out during the process.

[CPTBadAss]

Does anybody know what the effect would be if you put clear switch tops (eg from a Gateron) on a switch with front mounted LEDs?or can you not put LEDs through gaterons?

I just realised I would have to unsolder all the LEDs... 

I should probably learn how to solder and de-solder...

You can definitely put LEDs in Gateron switches. I've not tried it but I'd imagine it would look like a more muted version of backlit Matias switches.

[katushkin]

Does anybody know what the effect would be if you put clear switch tops (eg from a Gateron) on a switch with front mounted LEDs?or can you not put LEDs through gaterons?

I just realised I would have to unsolder all the LEDs... 

I should probably learn how to solder and de-solder...

Show Image

You can definitely put LEDs in Gateron switches. I've not tried it but I'd imagine it would look like a more muted version of backlit Matias switches.

Don't know what Matias backlit looks like :P

I may or may not do it, don't know if it would be worth it on a Keycool, as much as I love them. Just would be interesting if anybody else has tried the gateron + LED combo. It might be really diffused what with the cloudy tops, although the LEDs are on the front and not inside like on the Corsair RGB.

[CPTBadAss]

Don't know what Matias backlit looks like .

I think it's a Duck Orion or V2 that had backlighting and an Alps plate. There's pictures floating around with them. I'm afk on my phone or I'd find and link you.

[sethk_]

I was wondering if anyone knew how many points are needed to browse the OTD marketplace.

[Bomble]

mechkb.com is finally about to restock 55g RF 87u's. Before I decide to go for it in a few days I was just wondering; (mainly for my peace of mind) as someone who initially used MX blues, and never found them too heavy or fatiguing to type on, 55g Topre should be fine too, right?

[CPTBadAss]

mechkb.com is finally about to restock 55g RF 87u's. Before I decide to go for it in a few days I was just wondering; (mainly for my peace of mind) as someone who initially used MX blues, and never found them too heavy or fatiguing to type on, 55g Topre should be fine too, right?

Not really an easy question and you won't get a nice clean answer. It's going to be more dependant on your tastes in switches. 55g Topre is probably a little heavier than MX Blues (I'm a Topre noob), so you'll have to decide for yourself if you like heavier switches or not.

[Bomble]

mechkb.com is finally about to restock 55g RF 87u's. Before I decide to go for it in a few days I was just wondering; (mainly for my peace of mind) as someone who initially used MX blues, and never found them too heavy or fatiguing to type on, 55g Topre should be fine too, right?

Not really an easy question and you won't get a nice clean answer. It's going to be more dependant on your tastes in switches. 55g Topre is probably a little heavier than MX Blues (I'm a Topre noob), so you'll have to decide for yourself if you like heavier switches or not.

Fair enough, I think I'll pick one up based on the fact that I don't want a variable board, and that 45g uniform is hard to come by in Australia for a reasonable price. If I don't like it, I can resell it and get a 45g instead via classifieds or r/mechmarket.

Thanks for the response though

[CPTBadAss]

Fair enough, I think I'll pick one up based on the fact that I don't want a variable board, and that 45g uniform is hard to come by in Australia for a reasonable price. If I don't like it, I can resell it and get a 45g instead via classifieds or r/mechmarket.

Thanks for the response though

There's an Australian HHKB tour that I believe is still active. I suggest seeing if you can sign up to test it for yourself.

[Ludovician]

The tour has ended. I was the last recipient, and I sent the board back to Jersern last Thursday.

[CPTBadAss]

The tour has ended. I was the last recipient, and I sent the board back to Jersern last Thursday.

Bombie could always PM Jersern and see if he'd loan the board out again.

[Bomble]

I've got an HHKB, I was just curious whether I would manage with the 55g domes considering that I've tried MX blues which are weighted similarly. But in hindsight, I probably should have mentioned my HHKB when I first asked the question, oops. 

[jdcarpe]

I've got an HHKB, I was just curious whether I would manage with the 55g domes considering that I've tried MX blues which are weighted similarly. But in hindsight, I probably should have mentioned my HHKB when I first asked the question, oops. 

55g domes will feel heavier than MX blues. I don't find them fatiguing, but then again, I prefer an HHKB with 45g domes. I normally prefer blacks or clears in MX.

[Bomble]

I feel like I have a tendency towards heavier switches, my first board had MX blues, and when I switched to browns I had issues with accidentally pressing keys which I did not intend to. This is no longer as much of an issue as it used to be, although it still happens from time to time. I feel like 55 gram Topre should be right up my alley, but now I just have to wait until it's delivered and see.

[Ludovician]

I switched back to mine a couple of days ago after using my HHKB for a while, felt ridiculously stiff at first. Getting more used to it now, though.

[alienman82]

removed.

[njbair]

What is the Cherry G81-3116SAU??  Not sure if it is rare or something it is $241 here: http://www.pacificgeek.com/product.asp?id=1026674&C=304&S=2045

AFAIK G81 means it uses MY switches instead of MX, so that thing is overpriced would be my guess.

[CPTBadAss]

What is the Cherry G81-3116SAU??  Not sure if it is rare or something it is $241 here: http://www.pacificgeek.com/product.asp?id=1026674&C=304&S=2045

AFAIK G81 means it uses MY switches instead of MX, so that thing is overpriced would be my guess.

The S designates PBT dyesub caps which are highly-sought after. Perhaps the seller knows the market for these. Yes they are MY switches.

[njbair]

What is the Cherry G81-3116SAU??  Not sure if it is rare or something it is $241 here: http://www.pacificgeek.com/product.asp?id=1026674&C=304&S=2045

AFAIK G81 means it uses MY switches instead of MX, so that thing is overpriced would be my guess.

The S designates PBT dyesub caps which are highly-sought after. Perhaps the seller knows the market for these. Yes they are MY switches.

I didn't realize the two shared keycap compatibility. TIL.

[alienman82]

removed.

[whentheclouds]

my vintage knowledge is sorely lacking. what board do these caps originate from?

[CPTBadAss]

my vintage knowledge is sorely lacking. what board do these caps originate from?

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Probably a Cherry dyesubbed PBT board. Such as the one in the question just above yours.

[whentheclouds]

that would explain why the legends are slightly 'thicker' than on doubleshots. do you know why these sets mix both english and german? like the Enter in my photo, or the num lock in this one:

[CPTBadAss]

that would explain why the legends are slightly 'thicker' than on doubleshots. do you know why these sets mix both english and german? like the Enter in my photo, or the num lock in this one:

Show Image

Probably used those caps because that Num Lock has that nice LED window. Same reasoning for the Enter key. "Enter" looks cleaner imo.

[whentheclouds]

mmm you're right, i didn't consider these could be mix-and-matches. thanks for the help

[CPTBadAss]

I just wanted to take the time and say this because I'm not sure I say this enough. I always enjoy answering questions and researching stuff for the posts in here. I'm glad the community allows me to help out in this way. Really appreciate everyone thanking me. I just never want to clutter the thread with "you're welcome" or something along those lines. It's been a fun ride so far with this thread <3

And special thanks to everyone who contributes both questions and answers besides myself. You guys make this thread run. I just happen to be a little obsessive about this thing lol.

[rowdy]

Thank you Cpt for making this thread, and for constantly being available to answer all manner of questions.

The OP is an invaluable reference, and I link to it often from new member posts.

[KnivesM]

Will TEX TKL cases for Filcos work on Leopold's? I've heard a lot of people say Filcos are very similar to Leopolds so I've been curious about this for a while now. The measurements on Mechanicalkeyboards.com list both TEX and Vortex at 14.20" which would be 360mm (what my Leopold measures).

[byker]

I just wanted to take the time and say this because I'm not sure I say this enough. I always enjoy answering questions and researching stuff for the posts in here. I'm glad the community allows me to help out in this way. Really appreciate everyone thanking me. I just never want to clutter the thread with "you're welcome" or something along those lines. It's been a fun ride so far with this thread <3

And special thanks to everyone who contributes both questions and answers besides myself. You guys make this thread run. I just happen to be a little obsessive about this thing lol.

Many thanks for all of your awesome work answering questions CPTBadAss! 

[phoenix1234]

I just wanted to take the time and say this because I'm not sure I say this enough. I always enjoy answering questions and researching stuff for the posts in here. I'm glad the community allows me to help out in this way. Really appreciate everyone thanking me. I just never want to clutter the thread with "you're welcome" or something along those lines. It's been a fun ride so far with this thread <3

And special thanks to everyone who contributes both questions and answers besides myself. You guys make this thread run. I just happen to be a little obsessive about this thing lol.

You contributed a lot to this thread obviously  . Thank you for keeping this happening.

[jonathanyu]

that would explain why the legends are slightly 'thicker' than on doubleshots. do you know why these sets mix both english and german? like the Enter in my photo, or the num lock in this one:

Show Image

Not sure where the windowed num lock from because iirc there are few boards have that, but the number keys with blue arrow are came from G80-2551 HAD.  The Cherry logo are came from G80-2100

[Ludovician]

So I keep an eye on ebay's vintage computers section filtered by the "keyboard" keyword and last week something came up. $22 for an unidentified old-timey keyboard labelled as "clicky" by the seller, with free postage, Buy It Now. I'm sure it costs at least that just to post it to me.

Anyway, it showed up today and sure enough, White alps. Now I'm wondering if you guys can identify it, because I think it's rebranded.

On a related note, I'm wondering what kind of adapter I need to use this thing. My computer has a PS/2 port and USB ports. I'm guessing that this is what I need, but can someone confirm? Also, would that work for an IBM Model F PC AT or XT? Because I intend to get one of those when one becomes available at a good price.

Pictures

Thanks.

[CommonCurt]

Will TEX TKL cases for Filcos work on Leopold's? I've heard a lot of people say Filcos are very similar to Leopolds so I've been curious about this for a while now. The measurements on Mechanicalkeyboards.com list both TEX and Vortex at 14.20" which would be 360mm (what my Leopold measures).

I'm curious if KBParadise V80's will fit  in the TEX TKL cases.   I would consider putting a V80 MTS with matias switches in one if it's compatible.