Orion V2 Kustom TKL Group Buy

[gadzkun]

quick question. I was stupid and completely forgot about LED Polarity when assembling my switches. So chances are that 50% of my assembled switches will be "the wrong way round". As I am using SIP Sockets, changing polarity shouldnt be too much of a hassle. I was planning on soldering all the switches and then see which LEDs I have to flip.

Will having an LED inserted "the wrong way round" have a negative effect except that no light is being emitted? E.g. does it make the LED break or even worse does anything happen to the pcb?

It would be great if somebody could give me an answer to that! 

i think it wont do any damage. only make the led wont work.
just like inserted wrong battery, it wont ON but not damaged.
but maybe im wrong 

[E3E]

quick question. I was stupid and completely forgot about LED Polarity when assembling my switches. So chances are that 50% of my assembled switches will be "the wrong way round". As I am using SIP Sockets, changing polarity shouldnt be too much of a hassle. I was planning on soldering all the switches and then see which LEDs I have to flip.

Will having an LED inserted "the wrong way round" have a negative effect except that no light is being emitted? E.g. does it make the LED break or even worse does anything happen to the pcb?

It would be great if somebody could give me an answer to that! 

i think it wont do any damage. only make the led wont work.
just like inserted wrong battery, it wont ON but not damaged.
but maybe im wrong 

As someone who's dealt with SIPs a ton, you'll be fine. In practical terms and through experience assembling boards and changing out LEDs, there is no harm to the board when it comes putting in LEDs the wrong way around, just that it's a major PITA if you SOLDERED them all that way.

[Ahkrael]

I just received my board, and though I haven't tested it, the other poster earlier said that polarity should be Positive on the Farthest circle from the Resistor.  Basically, if you are looking at the Front of the PCB, it would mean Pos is Left, as when you flip it over, the resistors are on the Left, so pos is Right on the reverse side of board.  I'm assuming this is the same for the other LEDs as well.

I'm SUPER impressed with the quality of the machining on the alum top.  I love how the LED cutouts are done - with the pinholes on top of the dome cuts.  I got the angled bottom and it is SOLID.  I'm still going to toy around with different spring weights for some of the keys before I solder it together - I only got 60 of the 65g Zealios.  I'm thinking of mixing some other springs with Gat linears - 65g Zeals would be roughly equal to what actuation weight?  I have some Sprits 78 (2 pcs), 72, 62 and 68 (which are weighted for total compression) and some Gateron springs (massdrop) which are weighted for actuation at 62, 45, and 80 (super heavy).  I've got more gat browns if I want more tactiles, but if they are going to be different I might as well do linears, is my thinking.

[E3E]

I just received my board, and though I haven't tested it, the other poster earlier said that polarity should be Positive on the Farthest circle from the Resistor.  Basically, if you are looking at the Front of the PCB, it would mean Pos is Left, as when you flip it over, the resistors are on the Left, so pos is Right on the reverse side of board.  I'm assuming this is the same for the other LEDs as well.

I'm SUPER impressed with the quality of the machining on the alum top.  I love how the LED cutouts are done - with the pinholes on top of the dome cuts.  I got the angled bottom and it is SOLID.  I'm still going to toy around with different spring weights for some of the keys before I solder it together - I only got 60 of the 65g Zealios.  I'm thinking of mixing some other springs with Gat linears - 65g Zeals would be roughly equal to what actuation weight?  I have some Sprits 78 (2 pcs), 72, 62 and 68 (which are weighted for total compression) and some Gateron springs (massdrop) which are weighted for actuation at 62, 45, and 80 (super heavy).  I've got more gat browns if I want more tactiles, but if they are going to be different I might as well do linears, is my thinking.

I'm pretty sure that Zeal weighted his switches using the Korean standard, so the weight should be most similar to the 62g and 68g SPRiT springs you have.

If the Gateton 45g springs are anything like Cherry MX reds, then the bottom out weight should be 60g.

[kacase]

quick question. I was stupid and completely forgot about LED Polarity when assembling my switches. So chances are that 50% of my assembled switches will be "the wrong way round". As I am using SIP Sockets, changing polarity shouldnt be too much of a hassle. I was planning on soldering all the switches and then see which LEDs I have to flip.

Will having an LED inserted "the wrong way round" have a negative effect except that no light is being emitted? E.g. does it make the LED break or even worse does anything happen to the pcb?

It would be great if somebody could give me an answer to that! 

i think it wont do any damage. only make the led wont work.
just like inserted wrong battery, it wont ON but not damaged.
but maybe im wrong 

As someone who's dealt with SIPs a ton, you'll be fine. In practical terms and through experience assembling boards and changing out LEDs, there is no harm to the board when it comes putting in LEDs the wrong way around, just that it's a major PITA if you SOLDERED them all that way.

Thanks a ton for your help! I guess ill just solder all my switches and flip the LEDs that dont light up

[gadzkun]

quick question. I was stupid and completely forgot about LED Polarity when assembling my switches. So chances are that 50% of my assembled switches will be "the wrong way round". As I am using SIP Sockets, changing polarity shouldnt be too much of a hassle. I was planning on soldering all the switches and then see which LEDs I have to flip.

Will having an LED inserted "the wrong way round" have a negative effect except that no light is being emitted? E.g. does it make the LED break or even worse does anything happen to the pcb?

It would be great if somebody could give me an answer to that! 

i think it wont do any damage. only make the led wont work.
just like inserted wrong battery, it wont ON but not damaged.
but maybe im wrong 

As someone who's dealt with SIPs a ton, you'll be fine. In practical terms and through experience assembling boards and changing out LEDs, there is no harm to the board when it comes putting in LEDs the wrong way around, just that it's a major PITA if you SOLDERED them all that way.

Thanks a ton for your help! I guess ill just solder all my switches and flip the LEDs that dont light up

 
dont forget to post the picture when your board is ready

[Ahkrael]

I just received my board, and though I haven't tested it, the other poster earlier said that polarity should be Positive on the Farthest circle from the Resistor.  Basically, if you are looking at the Front of the PCB, it would mean Pos is Left, as when you flip it over, the resistors are on the Left, so pos is Right on the reverse side of board.  I'm assuming this is the same for the other LEDs as well.

I'm SUPER impressed with the quality of the machining on the alum top.  I love how the LED cutouts are done - with the pinholes on top of the dome cuts.  I got the angled bottom and it is SOLID.  I'm still going to toy around with different spring weights for some of the keys before I solder it together - I only got 60 of the 65g Zealios.  I'm thinking of mixing some other springs with Gat linears - 65g Zeals would be roughly equal to what actuation weight?  I have some Sprits 78 (2 pcs), 72, 62 and 68 (which are weighted for total compression) and some Gateron springs (massdrop) which are weighted for actuation at 62, 45, and 80 (super heavy).  I've got more gat browns if I want more tactiles, but if they are going to be different I might as well do linears, is my thinking.

I'm pretty sure that Zeal weighted his switches using the Korean standard, so the weight should be most similar to the 62g and 68g SPRiT springs you have.

If the Gateton 45g springs are anything like Cherry MX reds, then the bottom out weight should be 60g.

Yeah, I realize that.  I've got a little numpad that is PCB mounted, so I'm going to play around with that mixing these extra gaterons in.  It's just hard to use a single switch tester to get a feel for what you want, especially when mixing things around.  When I used my tester before, I prefered linears with O rings to dampen the landing - though I'm not sure how well those would feel in a board.  I used O rings with my Browns for a month or so, and ended up hating it in the end.  That's something easy to test and change, but finding a good mix of spring weight with or without the O rings, might be harder.  Maybe this is why people usually don't mix different switches often on board, haha.  Try to make it perfect, and then it becomes a mess in the end.

[blighty]

Potato pic:


I made myself LOL over the light bleed on the caps lock key. 

I do have to take off the bottom and resolder the LED under the Print Screen key (cold solder joint...), but not bad for a rush job I guess. 

[Steezus]

Potato pic:
(Attachment Link)

I made myself LOL over the light bleed on the caps lock key. 

I do have to take off the bottom and resolder the LED under the Print Screen key (cold solder joint...), but not bad for a rush job I guess.

Nice job, did you not sip socket your switches? They are a pain in the ass but it's so worth it when an LED burns out or you change the LEDs to match a set. Also what time of button is your Orion v2, black aluminum?

[ramnes]

Potato pic:
(Attachment Link)

I made myself LOL over the light bleed on the caps lock key. 

I do have to take off the bottom and resolder the LED under the Print Screen key (cold solder joint...), but not bad for a rush job I guess.

Why do you post a picture of almost the build I've planned to do while I didn't receive the board yet? 

[blighty]

Nice job, did you not sip socket your switches? They are a pain in the ass but it's so worth it when an LED burns out or you change the LEDs to match a set. Also what time of button is your Orion v2, black aluminum?

No sip sockets.  I have no plan to change the LED colors.  I set the base color to red as well, but haven't quite figured out how to stop the base lights from "breathing."  Probably set with controls I didn't flash...  The base is the acrylic wedge, not the aluminum one.  I wanted a different angle than the LSv2.   It's such a solid build, even with the acrylic.  I was a bit wary about acrylic bottoms after building the RSIII (kind of flimsy, even with the plate), but the Orion V2 is rock solid.  Glad I got in on the buy, and glad I didn't puss out and sell my spot.  It's definitely a keeper.

Why do you post a picture of almost the build I've planned to do while I didn't receive the board yet? 

Sorry!  Great minds think alike?  It looks kind of classy and reserved, even with the backlighting. 

[Steezus]

Nice job, did you not sip socket your switches? They are a pain in the ass but it's so worth it when an LED burns out or you change the LEDs to match a set. Also what time of button is your Orion v2, black aluminum?

No sip sockets.  I have no plan to change the LED colors.  I set the base color to red as well, but haven't quite figured out how to stop the base lights from "breathing."  Probably set with controls I didn't flash...  The base is the acrylic wedge, not the aluminum one.  I wanted a different angle than the LSv2.   It's such a solid build, even with the acrylic.  I was a bit wary about acrylic bottoms after building the RSIII (kind of flimsy, even with the plate), but the Orion V2 is rock solid.  Glad I got in on the buy, and glad I didn't puss out and sell my spot.  It's definitely a keeper.

Glad to hear how solid it feels, I do like the acrylic of the RS96 but it does feel a little flimsy. I should be getting an acrylic angled bottom and a aluminum bottom, I'll probably end up using the alu bottom. I love the the acrylic slits when using both the aluminum top and bottom.

[elton5354]

Nice job, did you not sip socket your switches? They are a pain in the ass but it's so worth it when an LED burns out or you change the LEDs to match a set. Also what time of button is your Orion v2, black aluminum?

No sip sockets.  I have no plan to change the LED colors.  I set the base color to red as well, but haven't quite figured out how to stop the base lights from "breathing."  Probably set with controls I didn't flash...  The base is the acrylic wedge, not the aluminum one.  I wanted a different angle than the LSv2.   It's such a solid build, even with the acrylic.  I was a bit wary about acrylic bottoms after building the RSIII (kind of flimsy, even with the plate), but the Orion V2 is rock solid.  Glad I got in on the buy, and glad I didn't puss out and sell my spot.  It's definitely a keeper.

Glad to hear how solid it feels, I do like the acrylic of the RS96 but it does feel a little flimsy. I should be getting an acrylic angled bottom and a aluminum bottom, I'll probably end up using the alu bottom. I love the the acrylic slits when using both the aluminum top and bottom.

I don't see you on my order list though?

Mine should be in my hands tomorrow. I'll post an unboxing or something

[Steezus]

Nice job, did you not sip socket your switches? They are a pain in the ass but it's so worth it when an LED burns out or you change the LEDs to match a set. Also what time of button is your Orion v2, black aluminum?

No sip sockets.  I have no plan to change the LED colors.  I set the base color to red as well, but haven't quite figured out how to stop the base lights from "breathing."  Probably set with controls I didn't flash...  The base is the acrylic wedge, not the aluminum one.  I wanted a different angle than the LSv2.   It's such a solid build, even with the acrylic.  I was a bit wary about acrylic bottoms after building the RSIII (kind of flimsy, even with the plate), but the Orion V2 is rock solid.  Glad I got in on the buy, and glad I didn't puss out and sell my spot.  It's definitely a keeper.

Glad to hear how solid it feels, I do like the acrylic of the RS96 but it does feel a little flimsy. I should be getting an acrylic angled bottom and a aluminum bottom, I'll probably end up using the alu bottom. I love the the acrylic slits when using both the aluminum top and bottom.

I don't see you on my order list though?

Mine should be in my hands tomorrow. I'll post an unboxing or something

Oh haha I am buying it off another member, being shipped to him first to inspect everything.

[Rainbow_]

tfw one of those pink slips is in your door

[filphil]

tfw one of those pink slips is in your door

I feel you there, bud.  Sit there all day and you have to wonder if they even bothered to ring your doorbell. -_-

[ramnes]

Just received the package. I love that "Made in Korea" sticker!

The top housing is really lighter than I thought, so I'm very glad that I choose to pay a bit more to have the alu bottom. Looks really great overall.

Elton, sorry about that Paypal thing, but I was really worried. In the end everything is okay so thanks a lot!

Do you know if we could order some acrylic inserts to put under the holes?

[jaemzp]

Thanks elton, got mine yesterday and I've just finished assembling it!
Does anyone happen know where to get the program to, well program it?

[slushi]

Thanks elton, got mine yesterday and I've just finished assembling it!
Does anyone happen know where to get the program to, well program it?

Should be here:

http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/84

EDIT:

Sorry it is here: http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124

[rainb1ood]

The newer version for Orion v2 is here

http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124

[jaemzp]

Thanks elton, got mine yesterday and I've just finished assembling it!
Does anyone happen know where to get the program to, well program it?

Should be here:

http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/84

EDIT:

Sorry it is here: http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124

The newer version for Orion v2 is here

http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124

Thanks guys, really appreciate it! Assumed it would have been in the OP and never bothered researching it  )

[rainb1ood]

Thanks elton, got mine yesterday and I've just finished assembling it!
Does anyone happen know where to get the program to, well program it?

Should be here:

http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/84

EDIT:

Sorry it is here: http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124

The newer version for Orion v2 is here

http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124

Thanks guys, really appreciate it! Assumed it would have been in the OP and never bothered researching it  )

Nope it was just posted yesterday on his site (duck)

I got my kit yesterday and its on its way to E3E for assembly.

Some pics I took before I packed it up again






Love the quality of the aluminum top

[ika]

Does that plastic plate support switch top removal? I don't see the required notches.
For that matter, do the steel/alu plates support it? I was under the impression that they do but now I'm second-guessing myself.
EDIT: none of them do T_T

[rainb1ood]

I was not able to try and see if it would let me remove the switch top before I shipped the kit. Maybe other people can comment on that.

[Steezus]

Does that plastic plate support switch top removal? I don't see the required notches.
For that matter, do the steel/alu plates support it? I was under the impression that they do but now I'm second-guessing myself.

It appears that non of them do .

[Rainbow_]

THE ORION HAS LANDED

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

[Dreamre]

Just received the package. I love that "Made in Korea" sticker!

The top housing is really lighter than I thought, so I'm very glad that I choose to pay a bit more to have the alu bottom. Looks really great overall.

Elton, sorry about that Paypal thing, but I was really worried. In the end everything is okay so thanks a lot!

Do you know if we could order some acrylic inserts to put under the holes?

Never doubt Sir Elton!

[elton5354]

Some shots before I build it over the weekend.

[gadzkun]

Some shots before I build it over the weekend.

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dem so fukin gud! :p :thumb:

any news when next GB duck board. :rolleyes:
i really want one.
cant wait for next GB.

[alienman82]

Some shots before I build it over the weekend.

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OOOOO!!! ALPS!!

[R1N3]

Jesus they look so ****ing good.. 

One more month seems like nothing for a lifetime of clackiness

[E3E]

Some shots before I build it over the weekend.

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The angled acrylic bottom makes this keyboard one of the most unique looking I have seen.

I definitely hope that the Octagon v2 has such an option too. I'll be buying all of the bottom case options for that one.  :thumb:

[ccc24]

is there a time frame on the octagon gb? Will it go straight to a GB or through an IC first?

[appleonama]

Some shots before I build it over the weekend.

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so freaking awesome no way i could sell mine


well RIP my topre collection gotta make way for 1 cherry board

[E3E]

Some shots before I build it over the weekend.

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so freaking awesome no way i could sell mine


well RIP my topre collection gotta make way for 1 cherry board

Ahaha. I like your renewed vigor! I know how it is to be torn on a buy, man. Good luck battling those demons, hehe.

[Fnzzy]

Received. Thanks so much

[appleonama]

Some shots before I build it over the weekend.

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so freaking awesome no way i could sell mine


well RIP my topre collection gotta make way for 1 cherry board

Ahaha. I like your renewed vigor! I know how it is to be torn on a buy, man. Good luck battling those demons, hehe.

Lol yes it's a real battle I am so torn at the moment. I love topre and my topre collection but the reality is I only use 2 topre boards out of my 5. I can't have money laying around being unused. I might as well sell them to someone who will use them. This will leave me with my favorite topre boards and awesome cherry board.

[E3E]

Some shots before I build it over the weekend.

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so freaking awesome no way i could sell mine


well RIP my topre collection gotta make way for 1 cherry board

Ahaha. I like your renewed vigor! I know how it is to be torn on a buy, man. Good luck battling those demons, hehe.

Lol yes it's a real battle I am so torn at the moment. I love topre and my topre collection but the reality is I only use 2 topre boards out of my 5. I can't have money laying around being unused. I might as well sell them to someone who will use them. This will leave me with my favorite topre boards and awesome cherry board.

That's definitely good logic to follow. It can definitely be hard to let go to boards sometimes, even if you don't use them often. Oh the sentimental attachment!

[kacase]

I recieved mine too! Thanks elton

Does anyone know which Function Layers correspond to which keys?

[appleonama]

All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.

[Steezus]

All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.

Agreed, this threads needs more pictures. I want to see some built Orions in all of their shining glory.

[elton5354]

Ran out of solder.....

[R1N3]

Ran out of solder.....

LOL life is pain..

Need those Amazon drones on call for one hour delivery (or it's free)

[kacase]

I as this was my first proper soldering projec and I was a bit scared a first. Having bad solder didn't mak it easier. I started off with S-Sn95-Cu5 which I found extremely hard to solder. I ran to the local electronics store and picked up some classic (toxic) Pb60-Sn40. The new solder was a revelation; it was buttery smooth and melted instantly at 350 C, so that I was able to finish the board in about an hour.

Sadly I only noticed afterwards that two of my ergo clears were sticky. At least it's just F4 and ' but I think I'll desolder them and check what seems to be the issue.

Also I am still not sure about the O2D mapper. I managed to get it running (hold backspace on orion before plugging in) and also installing the required drivers and software and have successfully uploaded a firmware update to my baby. I'm still having trouble understanding the Funktion layers though. Which keys do I need to press to get to which of the function layers, so I can switch to a different layer or change the led settings.

[jaemzp]

All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.

You may have one potato  . 65g zealios + 72g spring in zealio for spacebar

Does anyone happen to know if anyone still sells sip sockets that have not been removed from their plastic housing? I remember zeal selling them but I may be mistaken.

[kacase]

All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.

You may have one potato  . 65g zealios + 72g spring in zealio for spacebar

Does anyone happen to know if anyone still sells sip sockets that have not been removed from their plastic housing? I remember zeal selling them but I may be mistaken.

Just get them on Ebay. Free shipping from Thailand to you.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-FREE-SHIPPING-/260551794155?hash=item3caa18ddeb:g:9L4AAOxy4RpRzERk

[ika]

All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.

You may have one potato  . 65g zealios + 72g spring in zealio for spacebar

Does anyone happen to know if anyone still sells sip sockets that have not been removed from their plastic housing? I remember zeal selling them but I may be mistaken.

Just get them on Ebay. Free shipping from Thailand to you.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-FREE-SHIPPING-/260551794155?hash=item3caa18ddeb:g:9L4AAOxy4RpRzERk

The ones on eBay are short and don't protrude through the LED holes in my experience. Sethk recently ran a group buy for Mill-Max sockets from Mouser, those are the ones you're looking for. A good deal pricier than the eBay sockets, but for good reason.

[E3E]

All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.

You may have one potato  . 65g zealios + 72g spring in zealio for spacebar

Does anyone happen to know if anyone still sells sip sockets that have not been removed from their plastic housing? I remember zeal selling them but I may be mistaken.

Just get them on Ebay. Free shipping from Thailand to you.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-FREE-SHIPPING-/260551794155?hash=item3caa18ddeb:g:9L4AAOxy4RpRzERk

The ones on eBay are short and don't protrude through the LED holes in my experience. Sethk recently ran a group buy for Mill-Max sockets from Mouser, those are the ones you're looking for. A good deal pricier than the eBay sockets, but for good reason.

I recently bought (and subsequently sold) some 13-14mm tail SIP sockets from Jameco. Cheaper than Zeal's 5mm tail sockets and more than twice as long for that added sense of security. http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDrillDownView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&freeText=SIPP&search_type=jamecoall

The first on that list should be what I had. Still expensive, especially for anything larger than a 60%. There are tons of other options to choose from as well, and shipping is incredibly fast if you're in the US.

[E3E]

Ran out of solder.....

I've had this happen right while finishing up a restoration on my Fame board with blue alps.

I was so eager to get it done, I used tiny dabs of ChipQuik to finish the job, which worked, but which is very expensive and very useful for tough and stubborn desolder jobs. After that, I bought a huge spool of lead-free stuff and gave my old little spool the finger.

[ccc24]

where did you all source your stabs?