3D Printed Split 60% ISO

[Coumbaya]

Hello !
For some years I've been lukring GeekHack, buying keyboards and keycaps, dreaming of designing & making my own.
It's now a dream come true with this split 60% ISO



I wanted another Pure Pro ISO for my workplace, but they were sold out, so I thought "f- that, I'm making one!"

I started by copying 90% of the layout of the pure pro on the online layout editor, copy-pasted it onto the Plate builder by swillkb, wich gave me a basic sketch of the plate to work on in SolidWorks. The layout can look somewhat ugly because it's asymmetric and I think 60% with arrows aren't quite popular, but it's functional.

I printed a prototype, corrected some stuff, bought a teensy 3.2, cried trying to compile kiibohd (sorry), bought a teensy++ instead and some Mx Clear and printed the final version.
I was afraid 3D printing the whole thing would turn out ugly and/or the plate would bend, but it's rather strudy and it doesn't look *too* plastic-y...
The next one I will do will be aluminum & wood tho.



At one point I got struck because I didn't know what to use to make the connection between both matrixes, I needed 5 wires for the rows and 8 for the collumns. Some friend suggested HDMI and that turned out to be exactly what I needed.



I almost started developing my own basic firmware for it (I'm a C embedded dev by trade), but I discovered QMK Firmware Builder and was amazed by how powerful it was and there is no point in re-inventing the wheel so...

All things considered, I could do this keyboard only because of all the great tools & tutorials you guys made all over the web, so thanks (esp. to Matt3o, Ruiqui Mao, Ian Prest, swill...) !

The 3d model, both .STL and solidworks files, are here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2402102



Now I need to 3D print some size 2 DSA spacebars...
Edit: I forgot to mention, I added neodymium magnets along the split, I'ts not really necessary but when "locked" I can move the whole keyboard by grabbing just one half.

[sakai4eva]

Impressive. What thickness did you use for the gap between the left side and the right side?

[Coumbaya]

Impressive. What thickness did you use for the gap between the left side and the right side?

Thanks!
The gap is 0.5mm wide. I printed some really small squares and [ shaped pieces with different gaps to try. 1mm is too wide, 0.2 is too thick, 0.5 is jist perfect (for my printer anyway).

[nevin]

Abbolutely stunning! Great work. From another big fan of the pure version of the 60%s

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Coumbaya]

Abbolutely stunning! Great work. From another big fan of the pure version of the 60%s

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

thanks ! I just love this layout, 60% with arrows keys are awesome.

[nevin]

thanks ! I just love this layout, 60% with arrows keys are awesome.

absolutely. yeah, i'm one that has to have the arrows as well. now, trying to use anything else just doesn't cut it. i picked up one of those magicforce 68 ones for kicks & giggles and even the arrows on that are too far away from the rest of the keys.

i have a plan for an old apple board, but having trouble finding a m0110 at a decent price. (really just need the shell & a couple caps though)

[decker]

Looks really nice and its a treat for me as I also use Azerty (mon cher compatriote).
I bought a Whitefox and had azerty keys made from WASD.

I was wondering what layout are you using for the non alphanumeric keys ?
I suppose the labels are not the actual function for about half of them
(undo=bacsp, redo and save=shift, copy=fn, close=alt gr) ?

Things I notice :
- faint blue dye is a nice touch for Alt-Gr layer.
- nice move changing the step to 1/4 left for your 4th row.

I'd miss the easy access for the page up and down I have in a 65%.
Kepp it up !

[Coumbaya]

Looks really nice and its a treat for me as I also use Azerty (mon cher compatriote).
I bought a Whitefox and had azerty keys made from WASD.

I was wondering what layout are you using for the non alphanumeric keys ?
I suppose the labels are not the actual function for about half of them
(undo=bacsp, redo and save=shift, copy=fn, close=alt gr) ?

Things I notice :
- faint blue dye is a nice touch for Alt-Gr layer.
- nice move changing the step to 1/4 left for your 4th row.

I'd miss the easy access for the page up and down I have in a 65%.
Kepp it up !

Cool d'avoir un retour francophone 
Redo/save = Shift
Copy = Ctrl
Close = AltGr
Undo = Backspace
The left menu key is the function key for Layer 2.
I really need some 1x DSA modifier keys ;( ...
I've put PgUp/PgDown on the second layer because I use them less than the arrows keys, but I see what you mean, the layout of the whitefox is quite good for that but takes one more collumn.

Also I ended up creating an hollow "insert" ~7cm wide between the two sides (with magnets in it) because the keyboard is so light I kept moving one side relative to the other. It's much better now, but it's less aesthetic .
Without the insert, the magnets are strong enough to move both sides of the keyboard while holding just one side.

[mcuadros]

I found it at Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2402102) is amazing! Looks my dreamed keyboard too, the problem I see is the "board". I am willing to build one, but I don't want to deal with this crazy cable setup.

What about building a custom board?

[Coumbaya]

I found it at Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2402102) is amazing! Looks my dreamed keyboard too, the problem I see is the "board". I am willing to build one, but I don't want to deal with this crazy cable setup.

What about building a custom board?

I'm afraid I know nothing about PCBs...
It's really just a classical matrix layout really  , the only thingto do different is that you have to add 1 cable connecting each left/right row. The columns use the same number of cables.

[hariseldon]

Whoa this is mad close to my endgame board. I'm going to make this asap ..... what's up with that handwiring? Would it be simpler to use the Amoeba? 

https://oshpark.com/profiles/mtl

[Coumbaya]

Whoa this is mad close to my endgame board. I'm going to make this asap ..... what's up with that handwiring? Would it be simpler to use the Amoeba? 

https://oshpark.com/profiles/mtl

I'm not sure it would be easier, you would need 69 of those, and the same amount of soldering. In my (inexperienced) opinion, the hand-wiring is quite okay, I didn't experience any troubles il almost a year of use. But I'll be sure to use better wires (magnet wires I guess) next time. This time I could not wait so I salvaged some wires from a dead PC, the result is quite messy.