[IC] Planck PCBs & Atomic Keyboard hand-wiring kits are now for sale!

[jackhumbert]

Your 7.95mm measurement, I measured 4 of mine and they all came out to 8mm flat.

0.05mm is likely within the manufacturing tolerance for these suckers. I got between 7.92mm and 7.98mm when measuring it out of the plate. But the difference we're talking about is 0.6mm or so.

Two other things the new design would affect:

* Metal wire hitting the keyswitch
* Metal wire hitting the LED

The current design already hits 3mm LEDs, so I don't really consider that an issue - cherry stabs are there for that . When it's depressed all the way (just past parallel), it looks like there's enough space for a 0.6mm horizontal movement, but it's hard to tell without a thickness gauge.

[MrRooks]

Can't the stabilizers just be flipped so the bar is at the top to avoid the LED? Just gotta flip the cap inserts too. I've never done it myself but I have seen others do it. I'll try tomorrow, still not sure why yours don't line up.

[jackhumbert]

Can't the stabilizers just be flipped so the bar is at the top to avoid the LED? Just gotta flip the cap inserts too. I've never done it myself but I have seen others do it. I'll try tomorrow, still not sure why yours don't line up.

I've tried this, and unfortunately, it doesn't work. There's 8 different combinations, but 6 are ruled out because of the switch getting in the way. The two remaining are the different positions of the white piece, which is irrelevant with it being clipped (that makes it symmetrical).

I've gotten a couple different comments on the costar cut-out not really working, and my advice has always been to clip them that's also the reason I only sell Cherry ones.

I've got some more testing to do, but it looks like the new one is gonna work!

[vivalarevolución]

Possibly dumb question here, but does it matter too much which pin on the Teensy I use for each column/row?  I'm a noob at hand wiring, well, anything with a Teensy.  I need to my hand held.  Tightly.

If you copmile your own firmware, it doesn't matter (as long as you don't use the reserved pins).

You can use Jacks tool to help make the firmware for your pin layout: http://planckkeyboard.com/matrix.html

Which ones are the reserved pins?

You want to leave VCC, GRN and pin D6.

If you look at the matrix tool I linked to, it only lets you use the good pins (you can draw a line from the pin to a column or row on keyboard below it).

I used this as my reference.  : http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/brownfox-step-by-step-t6050.html

Thank you for your help.  I will stop back if I have any problems, but I think that I can figure this out from here.

[Wilba]

@prdlm2009: Don't use F4, F5 or F7. I just discovered they're not available as I/O pins unless you disable the JTAG interface, and the current Planck codebase doesn't do that.

[vivalarevolución]

@prdlm2009: Don't use F4, F5 or F7. I just discovered they're not available as I/O pins unless you disable the JTAG interface, and the current Planck codebase doesn't do that.

Okay thanks.

[MrRooks]

Can't the stabilizers just be flipped so the bar is at the top to avoid the LED? Just gotta flip the cap inserts too. I've never done it myself but I have seen others do it. I'll try tomorrow, still not sure why yours don't line up.

I've tried this, and unfortunately, it doesn't work. There's 8 different combinations, but 6 are ruled out because of the switch getting in the way. The two remaining are the different positions of the white piece, which is irrelevant with it being clipped (that makes it symmetrical).

I've gotten a couple different comments on the costar cut-out not really working, and my advice has always been to clip them that's also the reason I only sell Cherry ones.

I've got some more testing to do, but it looks like the new one is gonna work!

I personally don't want to change the layout for the stabilizers. Aren't these known measurements you used? I have two Atomic plates and a Filco, they all have Costar stabilizers that work 100% without binding. And as I said before I pulled measurements from your plate to make my 3D printed plate and the stabilizers work there as well. Can you show pictures of why you are cutting the white inserts? The pictures on the last page don't tell me much because you're using clipped inserts. I'm still not convinced it's not user error especially when they work for me and others. I can't help but think that people with issues just don't have them fully seated. Maybe I'm wrong and they do need a change, I'm just having trouble understanding why.

[jackhumbert]

I personally don't want to change the layout for the stabilizers. Aren't these known measurements you used? I have two Atomic plates and a Filco, they all have Costar stabilizers that work 100% without binding. And as I said before I pulled measurements from your plate to make my 3D printed plate and the stabilizers work there as well. Can you show pictures of why you are cutting the white inserts? The pictures on the last page don't tell me much because you're using clipped inserts. I'm still not convinced it's not user error especially when they work for me and others. I can't help but think that people with issues just don't have them fully seated. Maybe I'm wrong and they do need a change, I'm just having trouble understanding why.

They can still be misaligned even if they aren't binding - the parts are flexible enough that the misalignment isn't obvious when they aren't clipped.

I think if you clip your white pieces (if you have extras), you'll be able to see how they aren't perfectly aligned - you can also see this by looking at the off-center stems in your pic here:

[ianbullock]

I have also been having trouble with the costar stabs on my Atomic binding up... but I will have to double check again if they are completely seated. For me the stab was working okay, but every once in a while the key would bind up, and overall the force required seemed a tiny bit higher than it should be (even after applying a little superlube).

[MrRooks]

I personally don't want to change the layout for the stabilizers. Aren't these known measurements you used? I have two Atomic plates and a Filco, they all have Costar stabilizers that work 100% without binding. And as I said before I pulled measurements from your plate to make my 3D printed plate and the stabilizers work there as well. Can you show pictures of why you are cutting the white inserts? The pictures on the last page don't tell me much because you're using clipped inserts. I'm still not convinced it's not user error especially when they work for me and others. I can't help but think that people with issues just don't have them fully seated. Maybe I'm wrong and they do need a change, I'm just having trouble understanding why.

They can still be misaligned even if they aren't binding - the parts are flexible enough that the misalignment isn't obvious when they aren't clipped.

I think if you clip your white pieces (if you have extras), you'll be able to see how they aren't perfectly aligned - you can also see this by looking at the off-center stems in your pic here:

Show Image

They only look off center in that picture because they float free inside of the black part. I just put them in and they line up dead nuts center with the switch stem. I measure from the next row to the center of the key stem and the same for the white insert and they are both the same. That's why I'm so confused as to what isn't working for you. Not only do they not bind, there is room for them to move around.

Here is a shot without the metal bit in. I get no binding and the key is just as easy to press as one without stabs. If needed I can take a video to show it's smooth operation, and I've never lubed a stabilizer before.

[jackhumbert]

They only look off center in that picture because they float free inside of the black part. I just put them in and they line up dead nuts center with the switch stem. I measure from the next row to the center of the key stem and the same for the white insert and they are both the same. That's why I'm so confused as to what isn't working for you. Not only do they not bind, there is room for them to move around.

Here is a shot without the metal bit in. I get no binding and the key is just as easy to press as one without stabs. If needed I can take a video to show it's smooth operation, and I've never lubed a stabilizer before.

Show Image

I understand that it's not binding, but it's clearly stressed, and not level:



The difference we're talking about is 0.6mm - it's very small, and the plastic pieces are able to flex that amount to allow mostly normal operation.

The clipping of the white piece is only done to one side (I only clip the long side), which is why it's easy to tell from the photos I took that things aren't as they should be. I'm not sure what else I can provide as evidence.

[MrRooks]

They only look off center in that picture because they float free inside of the black part. I just put them in and they line up dead nuts center with the switch stem. I measure from the next row to the center of the key stem and the same for the white insert and they are both the same. That's why I'm so confused as to what isn't working for you. Not only do they not bind, there is room for them to move around.

Here is a shot without the metal bit in. I get no binding and the key is just as easy to press as one without stabs. If needed I can take a video to show it's smooth operation, and I've never lubed a stabilizer before.

Show Image

I understand that it's not binding, but it's clearly stressed, and not level:

Show Image

The difference we're talking about is 0.6mm - it's very small, and the plastic pieces are able to flex that amount to allow mostly normal operation.

The clipping of the white piece is only done to one side (I only clip the long side), which is why it's easy to tell from the photos I took that things aren't as they should be. I'm not sure what else I can provide as evidence.

That photo doesn't show anything. That cap can jiggle around and everything. It's not in anyway pushed against the black insert.

Here is a video and you can see that when I twist it, it touches the black part, but otherwise it's free.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW49CsB2fJc

[jackhumbert]

That photo doesn't show anything. That cap can jiggle around and everything. It's not in anyway pushed against the black insert.

Here is a video and you can see that when I twist it, it touches the black part, but otherwise it's free.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW49CsB2fJc

I appreciate you taking the time to make the video, but using the clipped tabs allows the keycap to settle and sit where it would naturally. If you don't want to clip them, can you turn them so that the long side is facing inwards? Here are two pics of mine when I do that:





If it was in the correct spot, the white pieces would be right up against the black ones.

[vivalarevolución]

So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing?  I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.

[nathanrosspowell]

So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing?  I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.

First, you want to get be able to build the firmware so follow this guide. Once you have all of that stuff installed, you want to navigate to the planck folder and run the make command in there. You will find in the file Makefile.pjrc that it will default to building keymap_jack. When the build is finished you can load your firmware. I used the teensy loader, I think there are other methods as well.

I recommend figuring all of that out and making sure your board works fine with one of the more normal layouts before trying to configure your own layout. When you're ready to edit a layout I would clone an existing one then start to move around the key codes. The file keycode.txt will let you know how to reference the keys you want. Edit, load onto your planck, test, repeat

[jackhumbert]

So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing?  I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.

The only real modification you should have to make (to get a working keyboard) is to matrix.c (you can use the previously mentioned http://planckkeyboard.com/matrix.html).

So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing?  I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.

First, you want to get be able to build the firmware so follow this guide. Once you have all of that stuff installed, you want to navigate to the planck folder and run the make command in there. You will find in the file Makefile.pjrc that it will default to building keymap_jack. When the build is finished you can load your firmware. I used the teensy loader, I think there are other methods as well.

I recommend figuring all of that out and making sure your board works fine with one of the more normal layouts before trying to configure your own layout. When you're ready to edit a layout I would clone an existing one then start to move around the key codes. The file keycode.txt will let you know how to reference the keys you want. Edit, load onto your planck, test, repeat

I use Makefile here instead of Makefile.pjrc, but this is right-on!

[vivalarevolución]

So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing?  I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.

The only real modification you should have to make (to get a working keyboard) is to matrix.c (you can use the previously mentioned http://planckkeyboard.com/matrix.html).

So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing?  I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.

First, you want to get be able to build the firmware so follow this guide. Once you have all of that stuff installed, you want to navigate to the planck folder and run the make command in there. You will find in the file Makefile.pjrc that it will default to building keymap_jack. When the build is finished you can load your firmware. I used the teensy loader, I think there are other methods as well.

I recommend figuring all of that out and making sure your board works fine with one of the more normal layouts before trying to configure your own layout. When you're ready to edit a layout I would clone an existing one then start to move around the key codes. The file keycode.txt will let you know how to reference the keys you want. Edit, load onto your planck, test, repeat

I use Makefile here instead of Makefile.pjrc, but this is right-on!

Okay, thanks, I'll see if I can figure it out.  I'm pretty incompetent when it comes to programming any of these keyboards, but we'll see.

[Wilba]

I was going to do a photo shoot of the Planck prototype PCB but the DSLR battery was flat.

Here's a potato quality teaser pic with my "training wheels" keycaps (blank DSAs were a bit too hard for me to adapt to quickly).

[Wilba]

With 60% less potato...



... and here's my build log: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70092.0

[nmur]

With 60% less potato...

(Attachment Link)

... and here's my build log: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70092.0

That looks so great dude. So hyped for the pcb.

[Data]

With 60% less potato...

(Attachment Link)

... and here's my build log: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70092.0

HHNNNNNNNNNNGGGG!

[vivalarevolución]

Thanks guys, I was able to program the keyboard and typing on it right now.  The directions were less confusing than I thought, just lots of fluff in there.

 Now to customizing my keymap.  I might ask for someone to double check my file for that.

[nathanrosspowell]

Thanks guys, I was able to program the keyboard and typing on it right now.  The directions were less confusing than I thought, just lots of fluff in there.

 Now to customizing my keymap.  I might ask for someone to double check my file for that.

Share a link to github/gist and I will have a look over it and offer any help i can 

[jackhumbert]

I've been messing around a bit with the TMK firmware in preparation for the PCB - check it out:
https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/planck

The 32 function layer limit no longer applies, and mod comboing is super easy. Also have some colemak tricks, and I'm working on getting macros cleaned-up.

The README goes into stuff technically, and the code's there to checkout as well - it's really not that complicated.

[BlindLemonLipschitz]

  This is awesome Jack! I was just trying to get mine set up before I get my parts. I was trying to get more functions the way Cub did for the ergodox.https://github.com/cub-uanic/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/ergodox/keymap_cub.h
Without much luck. This should help out a lot. Thanks
heres mine so far: https://github.com/BlindLemonLipschitz/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/planck

[vivalarevolución]

Potentially dumb question here.  Okay, I keep having this issue on the Planck when I ratchet down the plate screws.  Everything works fine before I put the bottom plate on.  Whenever I put the bottom plate on and tighten the screws, the Teensy puts pressure on Column 2 and causes multiple key presses.  I have the Teensy wedged between Columns 2 and 3, and it has broken a couple solder joints.  I have repaired those joints, yet when I re-insert the screws, I still have problems, even with improved solder joints.  I have kept the screws a little loose, to no avail.

TL;DR  Column 2 under the Teensy keeps malfunctioning with tightened plates, can't seem to get keyboard to work smoothly unless I remove bottom plate

First of all, does anybody know what causes this problem?

Second, do you think this could be solved by using spacers greater than 10 mm, or is the problem deeper than that?

[jackhumbert]

Potentially dumb question here.  Okay, I keep having this issue on the Planck when I ratchet down the plate screws.  Everything works fine before I put the bottom plate on.  Whenever I put the bottom plate on and tighten the screws, the Teensy puts pressure on Column 2 and causes multiple key presses.  I have the Teensy wedged between Columns 2 and 3, and it has broken a couple solder joints.  I have repaired those joints, yet when I re-insert the screws, I still have problems, even with improved solder joints.  I have kept the screws a little loose, to no avail.

TL;DR  Column 2 under the Teensy keeps malfunctioning with tightened plates, can't seem to get keyboard to work smoothly unless I remove bottom plate

First of all, does anybody know what causes this problem?

Second, do you think this could be solved by using spacers greater than 10 mm, or is the problem deeper than that?

It sounds like the Teensy may be shorting out some connections - if the USB port is touching one of the wires, that will probably cause some issues. Do you have everything around there insulated well? Electrical tape or a dab of hot glue work pretty well.

[vivalarevolución]

Potentially dumb question here.  Okay, I keep having this issue on the Planck when I ratchet down the plate screws.  Everything works fine before I put the bottom plate on.  Whenever I put the bottom plate on and tighten the screws, the Teensy puts pressure on Column 2 and causes multiple key presses.  I have the Teensy wedged between Columns 2 and 3, and it has broken a couple solder joints.  I have repaired those joints, yet when I re-insert the screws, I still have problems, even with improved solder joints.  I have kept the screws a little loose, to no avail.

TL;DR  Column 2 under the Teensy keeps malfunctioning with tightened plates, can't seem to get keyboard to work smoothly unless I remove bottom plate

First of all, does anybody know what causes this problem?

Second, do you think this could be solved by using spacers greater than 10 mm, or is the problem deeper than that?

It sounds like the Teensy may be shorting out some connections - if the USB port is touching one of the wires, that will probably cause some issues. Do you have everything around there insulated well? Electrical tape or a dab of hot glue work pretty well.

I've got electrical tape all around.  I'm also quite sure that the USB port is not touching wires, unless something is poking through the tape.

Like I said, no problems with bottom plate off.  With a tight bottom plate, Column 2 issues persist.

I think that I will just try some 12 mm standoffs, give the Teensy some more breathing room, and see how that works.

[jackhumbert]

Potentially dumb question here.  Okay, I keep having this issue on the Planck when I ratchet down the plate screws.  Everything works fine before I put the bottom plate on.  Whenever I put the bottom plate on and tighten the screws, the Teensy puts pressure on Column 2 and causes multiple key presses.  I have the Teensy wedged between Columns 2 and 3, and it has broken a couple solder joints.  I have repaired those joints, yet when I re-insert the screws, I still have problems, even with improved solder joints.  I have kept the screws a little loose, to no avail.

TL;DR  Column 2 under the Teensy keeps malfunctioning with tightened plates, can't seem to get keyboard to work smoothly unless I remove bottom plate

First of all, does anybody know what causes this problem?

Second, do you think this could be solved by using spacers greater than 10 mm, or is the problem deeper than that?

It sounds like the Teensy may be shorting out some connections - if the USB port is touching one of the wires, that will probably cause some issues. Do you have everything around there insulated well? Electrical tape or a dab of hot glue work pretty well.

I've got electrical tape all around.  I'm also quite sure that the USB port is not touching wires, unless something is poking through the tape.

Like I said, no problems with bottom plate off.  With a tight bottom plate, Column 2 issues persist.

I think that I will just try some 12 mm standoffs, give the Teensy some more breathing room, and see how that works.

Ahh. Yeah, 12mm standoffs would work. Can you send pics of the area? You're placing the Teensy USB port side towards the top plate, right?

[vivalarevolución]

Ahh. Yeah, 12mm standoffs would work. Can you send pics of the area? You're placing the Teensy USB port side towards the top plate, right?

The USB port side is towards the top plate, definitely.  I'm just gonna get some 12 mm standoffs and see if everything works smoothly.

[vivalarevolución]

It's working fine now that I removed the bottom plate.  I'll get the 12 mm standoffs and see how that works.  Just needs a little more space or a better arrangement of the Teensy and wires, on my part.

[jackhumbert]

I put up the design files for the milled bottom and middle pieces if anyone's interested in 3d-printing them! Adam Forland was kind enough to send me a couple he tested out:



There's some more info and links here: http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/reference/design#print

[nmur]

Nice!

Will there be a milled bottom for the Atomic in the future too?

[gcollic]

Gorgeous ! 

Is there any plan to open source the scad files ?
I started to build my keyboard (yaolk60, subatomic grid like but with the middle column empty). I had problems with my laser cutted case [1]. I'm not sure if my second try will be a thicker laser cutted case or a 3D printed one. If I go for 3D printing, I could contribute to the atomic sized case

[1] : tried 1.5 mm, but my laser shop has not the right material in this thickness, way too flexible, could almost roll into a circle

[jackhumbert]

Nice!

Will there be a milled bottom for the Atomic in the future too?

Yeap! I'll be releasing the stl for that pretty soon. There's some finalising on the Atomic PCB to be done first though.

Gorgeous ! 

Is there any plan to open source the scad files ?
I started to build my keyboard (yaolk60, subatomic grid like but with the middle column empty). I had problems with my laser cutted case [1]. I'm not sure if my second try will be a thicker laser cutted case or a 3D printed one. If I go for 3D printing, I could contribute to the atomic sized case

[1] : tried 1.5 mm, but my laser shop has not the right material in this thickness, way too flexible, could almost roll into a circle

I have a scad file that Adam wrote that splits up the case for different size printers - we're talking a little bit about automating that. I don't have the actual case design in scad, but I don't think I'm gonna be releasing the dwg either right now.

What's your case construction like? Are you using plastic? Btw, I think the Atomic PCB is gonna be nearly compatible with your yaolk60 layout!

[ianbullock]

I zipped up the files (solidworks 2013 and stl) for my current 3-part atomic case (held together with press fit 1/8" dowel pins between the sections). One of the files is just a solid one part version although it still has the pin holes inside. I'm still not sure that the screw holes are 100% accurately placed but seemed to work out okay. I used some very tiny wood screws which I carefully self-tapped into the plastic because I didn't have any metal inserts at the time. The STLs have little helper disks and edges which help the parts to stay stuck to the platform when printed on a cheap non-heated-enclosure printer. I press-fit a USB cable into the back center hole after some minor filing, so it does not have a removable cable.

Anyway, still hoping to make a much better version, but figured I'd just post it anyway in case it is a useful starting point for someone - feel free to modify however you want. Happy keyboard building!

[Tiramisuu]

Such a nice little keyboard at a reasonable price.

Is anyone using this as a daily driver at work?

[gcollic]

I thought it was more of a code approach of 3D modeling, with openscad or openjscad (I'm a software developer). I won't be of any help with solidworks or autocad, sorry 

Thanks for sharing 

[gcollic]

What's your case construction like? Are you using plastic? Btw, I think the Atomic PCB is gonna be nearly compatible with your yaolk60 layout!

Good news for the PCB ! Do you know if the shipping fee would be different from a plate ? The shipping cost to france for the plate are 1.5× the price of the plate :-(

My case construction was 3 layers :

• 1.5 mm switch plate in a flexible plastic usually used for laser engraving like this. I designed the plate with 2.5mm edges (9.5 from switch center), before knowing which material my local laser cutter shop had (initialy I planned to use an online shop which have plexiglas in stock).
• spacers similar to yours (no frame)
• 3 mm plastic which looks like see-through plexiglas (to use it to explain how to build a keyboard)

Didn't work, the switch plate broke lightly, and the plate bent under each stroke. I tried to replace the spacers with a framing of wood rodes but the switch plate was stil too flexible, and the edge not wide enough for screws.
This time the plan is to build a real frame and a plate compatible with it I plan a
My first board is not complete, but I already ordered the gateron for the next one(s).

[vivalarevolución]

Such a nice little keyboard at a reasonable price.

Is anyone using this as a daily driver at work?

I used the Planck for most of this week at work.  I work mostly with letters rather than numbers or symbols, so it's not much of a problem right now.  But having most of the numbers and symbols on the function layer is slowing my productivity when I need to use those.

I think if I had to do more numeric input, I might need a numpad alongside the Planck.

[Data]

Such a nice little keyboard at a reasonable price.

Is anyone using this as a daily driver at work?

I used the Planck for most of this week at work.  I work mostly with letters rather than numbers or symbols, so it's not much of a problem right now.  But having most of the letters and symbols on the function layer is slowing my productivity when I need to use those.

I think if I had to do more numeric input, I might need a numpad alongside the Planck.

I use a Leopold numpad with my ErgoDox.  I do enough 10key input that it was impossible to give up.

[Tiramisuu]

I picked up a a nice Filco 10 key to go with my poker 2 and then found that my need for it is extremely limited.  It gets dusty.

I find that only real annoyance I have with the 60% format is the forced choice between a having a winkey OR having an pkey on both sides.
I would like to use the winkey often enough that it is a pain in the ass not to have it and I use the FKeys while typing and like to use the correct finger to reach for it.

Having a pkey on either side would be a definite for numbers and FKeys on separate layers.

In my current role I write a lot of documents and definitely prefer the Poker to my previous TKL Logitech Dinovo Edge.   The edge was a more beautiful board  with unlimited features and bluetooth. (I miss the bluetooth) but the cherry browns and the form factor of the poker are a better typing experience.

It seems like reducing the reach to the number keys and integrating them into the qwerty row is if anything more ergonomic once you have adapted.   I find the high reach on for numbers often takes me off my home row position.   I'm not as convinced that ortho-linear layout is advantageous.   With my hands set closely together when typing on these small boards my wrists are at a almost a 45 degree angle from parallel.  The standard angles of the keyboard layout are fairly natural.   If the keys were linear and set at the natural angle of the wrist (give or take) it might have some merit (hard to tell irl).   Set straight up and down however it almost looks uncomfortable without splitting the board in half.

thoughts?

[ianbullock]

I built an atomic more for the short space+fn key layout than for the ortholinearity. I type with my arms each at roughly a 30 degree angle out from the keyboard rather than vertical, and agree it would be quite uncomfortable to type "straight" with both arms perpendicular to the edge of the keyboard.

That being said - I think the grid layout may make it easier for the mind to map out where the key locations are - there is a still a clear alignment relative to your head/body. The tactile cues may also be more clear - i.e. if you can feel the edge of a key with your finger, it is easier to process that information into refining your mental map of where the other key locations are. Just my random thoughts.

I do use the atomic as my main keyboard at work for coding and general typing at the moment with no particular issues.

[vivalarevolución]

I picked up a a nice Filco 10 key to go with my poker 2 and then found that my need for it is extremely limited.  It gets dusty.

I find that only real annoyance I have with the 60% format is the forced choice between a having a winkey OR having an pkey on both sides.
I would like to use the winkey often enough that it is a pain in the ass not to have it and I use the FKeys while typing and like to use the correct finger to reach for it.

Having a pkey on either side would be a definite for numbers and FKeys on separate layers.

In my current role I write a lot of documents and definitely prefer the Poker to my previous TKL Logitech Dinovo Edge.   The edge was a more beautiful board  with unlimited features and bluetooth. (I miss the bluetooth) but the cherry browns and the form factor of the poker are a better typing experience.

It seems like reducing the reach to the number keys and integrating them into the qwerty row is if anything more ergonomic once you have adapted.   I find the high reach on for numbers often takes me off my home row position.   I'm not as convinced that ortho-linear layout is advantageous.   With my hands set closely together when typing on these small boards my wrists are at a almost a 45 degree angle from parallel.  The standard angles of the keyboard layout are fairly natural.   If the keys were linear and set at the natural angle of the wrist (give or take) it might have some merit (hard to tell irl).   Set straight up and down however it almost looks uncomfortable without splitting the board in half.

thoughts?

I just bought it because it was small and wanted to experiment with keyboards without a number row.

[nmur]

I'm looking at grabbing Granite for my future semi-standard Atomic with milled bottom + pcb. Unfortunately the available keysets aren't very compatible with the Atomic layout. I can cover like 90% of the board with the common set and the modifiers, but I'm not too keen on shelling out another $25 for the Pro Modifiers set just so I can tick three more keys off, so I'd probably just get the Blank set. However then I'm still lacking another 2u key!

What should I do? get any extras from SP directly?

[daftendire]

I'm looking at grabbing Granite for my future semi-standard Atomic with milled bottom + pcb. Unfortunately the available keysets aren't very compatible with the Atomic layout. I can cover like 90% of the board with the common set and the modifiers, but I'm not too keen on shelling out another $25 for the Pro Modifiers set just so I can tick three more keys off, so I'd probably just get the Blank set. However then I'm still lacking another 2u key!

What should I do? get any extras from SP directly?

I noticed this and was disappointed as well. But, it looks like there's talk about adding extra kits. I wouldn't be surprised if they did, looking at the money train behind this set right now.
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/31f01m/granite_keycaps_now_available_on_massdrop/cq1pwld

[nmur]

I'm looking at grabbing Granite for my future semi-standard Atomic with milled bottom + pcb. Unfortunately the available keysets aren't very compatible with the Atomic layout. I can cover like 90% of the board with the common set and the modifiers, but I'm not too keen on shelling out another $25 for the Pro Modifiers set just so I can tick three more keys off, so I'd probably just get the Blank set. However then I'm still lacking another 2u key!

What should I do? get any extras from SP directly?

I noticed this and was disappointed as well. But, it looks like there's talk about adding extra kits. I wouldn't be surprised if they did, looking at the money train behind this set right now.
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/31f01m/granite_keycaps_now_available_on_massdrop/cq1pwld

I replied to his post there and he suggested just to look at grabbing some blanks from SP directly to fill in the gaps.

I'll probably just end up grabbing a few Granite sets and some SP blanks separately anyway, because I'm sure this set will end up on another keyboard in the future anyway.

[daftendire]

It would have been nice if they made a Granite Planck kit. But maybe it's better for my wallet that they didn't...

On a separate note, I neglected to order a 2u stab with my planck kit. Is anyone else using the 2 unit space bar without the stabilizer?

[Skuloth]

It would have been nice if they made a Granite Planck kit. But maybe it's better for my wallet that they didn't...

On a separate note, I neglected to order a 2u stab with my planck kit. Is anyone else using the 2 unit space bar without the stabilizer?

Granite basically has full support for the planck. The only thing you are missing is the blank 2u key and fn keys.

[jackhumbert]

I zipped up the files (solidworks 2013 and stl) for my current 3-part atomic case (held together with press fit 1/8" dowel pins between the sections). One of the files is just a solid one part version although it still has the pin holes inside. I'm still not sure that the screw holes are 100% accurately placed but seemed to work out okay. I used some very tiny wood screws which I carefully self-tapped into the plastic because I didn't have any metal inserts at the time. The STLs have little helper disks and edges which help the parts to stay stuck to the platform when printed on a cheap non-heated-enclosure printer. I press-fit a USB cable into the back center hole after some minor filing, so it does not have a removable cable.

Anyway, still hoping to make a much better version, but figured I'd just post it anyway in case it is a useful starting point for someone - feel free to modify however you want. Happy keyboard building!

Awesome! Thanks for sharing that!

Good news for the PCB ! Do you know if the shipping fee would be different from a plate ? The shipping cost to france for the plate are 1.5� the price of the plate :-(

My case construction was 3 layers :

• 1.5 mm switch plate in a flexible plastic usually used for laser engraving like this. I designed the plate with 2.5mm edges (9.5 from switch center), before knowing which material my local laser cutter shop had (initialy I planned to use an online shop which have plexiglas in stock).
• spacers similar to yours (no frame)
• 3 mm plastic which looks like see-through plexiglas (to use it to explain how to build a keyboard)

Didn't work, the switch plate broke lightly, and the plate bent under each stroke. I tried to replace the spacers with a framing of wood rodes but the switch plate was stil too flexible, and the edge not wide enough for screws.
This time the plan is to build a real frame and a plate compatible with it I plan a
My first board is not complete, but I already ordered the gateron for the next one(s).

Nice! I should be able to lower the shipping cost to $15 or so if you're not getting anything too thick - that's the main reason for the higher shipping cost. Yeah, that thin acrylic stuff is pretty brittle. My first ortholinear had something similar to that construction, and broke a lot.

It would have been nice if they made a Granite Planck kit. But maybe it's better for my wallet that they didn't...

On a separate note, I neglected to order a 2u stab with my planck kit. Is anyone else using the 2 unit space bar without the stabilizer?

Granite basically has full support for the planck. The only thing you are missing is the blank 2u key and fn keys.

+1 this. PMK also sells singles in the modifier-grey color from the Granite set.