Break the trace of keyboard pcb

[Arios]

Hi guys, first time here. Also first time want to change the switch of the keyboard.
Is quite old keyboard, like 5years, Armageddon keyboard, blue switch. Want to change to gateron white plus gateron black.
But the first key key I tried is space bar(what a stupid first choice), then this is the result.

And also my connector of mini USB become like this.

I want to know is that fix able ?

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[TalkingTree]

Hello and welcome,

The spacebar pads look really bad, your best chance is to wire it to an adjacent switch and a wider picture of the PCB would help.
As for the USB connector, you can wire a new ribbon cable directly to the pads.

What soldering iron are you using and what was the temperature?

[Arios]

Hello and welcome,

The spacebar pads look really bad, your best chance is to wire it to an adjacent switch and a wider picture of the PCB would help.
As for the USB connector, you can wire a new ribbon cable directly to the pads.

What soldering iron are you using and what was the temperature?

I was using a very cheap, since I have no experience yet. Thought I could test it, but my space-bar just dead.
May I ask what is adjacent switch?

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[TalkingTree]

I was using a very cheap, since I have no experience yet.

Consider buying a better soldering iron, cheap ones are mostly responsible for PCBs destructions.

May I ask what is adjacent switch?

Keyboards have a lot of inputs, so the switches are connected to a matrix.
There's a trace going from the left pad of the spacebar to another switch. You should be able to connect the two to restore the spacebar. Note that there's a trace right below the spacebar which seems severely damaged as well.

[Arios]

I was using a very cheap, since I have no experience yet.

Consider buying a better soldering iron, cheap ones are mostly responsible for PCBs destructions.

May I ask what is adjacent switch?

Keyboards have a lot of inputs, so the switches are connected to a matrix.
There's a trace going from the left pad of the spacebar to another switch. You should be able to connect the two to restore the spacebar. Note that there's a trace right below the spacebar which seems severely damaged as well.

Thanks for reply, the trace below the is light bulb.
So what you like, I can solder one wired to another switch to make it work again?

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[TalkingTree]

So what you like, I can solder one wired to another switch to make it work again?

Not just any. Try the closest switch on the left side. Although the right pad of the spacebar looks severely damaged and it might be unrecoverable.
Plug in the board and do some tests. To trigger a switch you must short its two pads.

[Arios]

So what you like, I can solder one wired to another switch to make it work again?

Not just any. Try the closest switch on the left side. Although the right pad of the spacebar looks severely damaged and it might be unrecoverable.
Plug in the board and do some tests. To trigger a switch you must short its two pads.

I need to get myself a good soldering tools first before I get any move on this.
Any good recommended tools that I can get? Since I quite not familiar with this.

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[TalkingTree]

I need to get myself a good soldering tools first before I get any move on this.
Any good recommended tools that I can get?

It really depends on your budget. It's been discussed extensively so you might wanna read other users' experiences.
A good starting read is The Living Soldering Thread.

[tp4tissue]

Ok, it looks like you're new at this..

First off,   STOP what you're doing..


Now, Go on amazon.com,  you need to order a De-Soldering Pump..  Get the BIG one, they have ALOT more suction.  Typically Soldapult 3 is the one people get.

Also, on amazon, you need Soldering rosin flux.. this removes the oxide layer (black stuff) on the metal so that solder sticks to it better.

Then, on Youtube, watch videos on how people USE a De-Soldering Pump..


Next, you need to clean up the stray solder around the board.


Keep in mind when you solder, the 3 second rule..   MOST electronic components can endure ~ 3 seconds of heating before its damaged.

This is especially true of plastic switches, because the terminals are dug into the switch housing.  as you solder they will melt the housing a bit.  If you do this for too long.. you damage the switch.


This is the same reason salvaging switches has always been a bad idea..

[Arios]

I need to get myself a good soldering tools first before I get any move on this.
Any good recommended tools that I can get?

It really depends on your budget. It's been discussed extensively so you might wanna read other users' experiences.
A good starting read is The Living Soldering Thread.

I not sure which one is good, scare later might get some bad result if I choose the cheaper one.


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[Arios]

Ok, it looks like you're new at this..

First off,   STOP what you're doing..


Now, Go on amazon.com,  you need to order a De-Soldering Pump..  Get the BIG one, they have ALOT more suction.  Typically Soldapult 3 is the one people get.

Also, on amazon, you need Soldering rosin flux.. this removes the oxide layer (black stuff) on the metal so that solder sticks to it better.

Then, on Youtube, watch videos on how people USE a De-Soldering Pump..


Next, you need to clean up the stray solder around the board.


Keep in mind when you solder, the 3 second rule..   MOST electronic components can endure ~ 3 seconds of heating before its damaged.

This is especially true of plastic switches, because the terminals are dug into the switch housing.  as you solder they will melt the housing a bit.  If you do this for too long.. you damage the switch.


This is the same reason salvaging switches has always been a bad idea..

I gonna get some practice first, what is the rosin flux? Is that some kind of oil?
Cause I stuck my soldering iron stick on, cant get rid of it.

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[tp4tissue]

I gonna get some practice first, what is the rosin flux? Is that some kind of oil?
Cause I stuck my soldering iron stick on, cant get rid of it.

 Don't know what you mean by practice, but don't practice on the keyboard hahaha...

the flux helps the solder stick Quickly and cleanly, trust me buy the flux..


Also, buy the Soldering pump.. you need the pump... GET THE PUMP.. 

If you are swapping switches, YOU NEED it 100%..

[Arios]

I gonna get some practice first, what is the rosin flux? Is that some kind of oil?
Cause I stuck my soldering iron stick on, cant get rid of it.

 Don't know what you mean by practice, but don't practice on the keyboard hahaha...

the flux helps the solder stick Quickly and cleanly, trust me buy the flux..


Also, buy the Soldering pump.. you need the pump... GET THE PUMP.. 

If you are swapping switches, YOU NEED it 100%..

I have the pump, but I don't know the flux you mean is that something like the oil?

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[tp4tissue]

I gonna get some practice first, what is the rosin flux? Is that some kind of oil?
Cause I stuck my soldering iron stick on, cant get rid of it.

 Don't know what you mean by practice, but don't practice on the keyboard hahaha...

the flux helps the solder stick Quickly and cleanly, trust me buy the flux..


Also, buy the Soldering pump.. you need the pump... GET THE PUMP.. 

If you are swapping switches, YOU NEED it 100%..

I have the pump, but I don't know the flux you mean is that something like the oil?

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Oil would catch on fire , soldering rosin is not oil hahaha..


Do you already have a Goop of some sort that you're using for soldering ?


It's good that you have the pump.. but do you have the BIG ONE..

[Arios]

I gonna get some practice first, what is the rosin flux? Is that some kind of oil?
Cause I stuck my soldering iron stick on, cant get rid of it.

 Don't know what you mean by practice, but don't practice on the keyboard hahaha...

the flux helps the solder stick Quickly and cleanly, trust me buy the flux..


Also, buy the Soldering pump.. you need the pump... GET THE PUMP.. 

If you are swapping switches, YOU NEED it 100%..

I have the pump, but I don't know the flux you mean is that something like the oil?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Oil would catch on fire , soldering rosin is not oil hahaha..


Do you already have a Goop of some sort that you're using for soldering ?


It's good that you have the pump.. but do you have the BIG ONE..

Big one is like what?
I think I know what you mean, or can you post some photo to me…

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[jcoffin1981]

I've had good experience with the Lyons solder sucker as well as the Engineer ss-02.  My first attempt with a radio shack iron yielded similar results to yours.  It has 2 settings- off and burn.  Need a temperature controlled station for surface mount work like this.

[tp4tissue]

I've had good experience with the Lyons solder sucker as well as the Engineer ss-02.  My first attempt with a radio shack iron yielded similar results to yours.  It has 2 settings- off and burn.  Need a temperature controlled station for surface mount work like this.

Size of the tip is pretty important for small stuff  but not TOO small,

the smallest chisel tip, that won't get in the way of the surrounding.

[Arios]

I've had good experience with the Lyons solder sucker as well as the Engineer ss-02.  My first attempt with a radio shack iron yielded similar results to yours.  It has 2 settings- off and burn.  Need a temperature controlled station for surface mount work like this.

Ya , mine one just have on and off now.
Don't have the temperature control, easier to get things burn.
Sometime the nip won't melt the iron..

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[Arios]

I've had good experience with the Lyons solder sucker as well as the Engineer ss-02.  My first attempt with a radio shack iron yielded similar results to yours.  It has 2 settings- off and burn.  Need a temperature controlled station for surface mount work like this.

https://www.lelong.com.my/soldering-station-nt936e-advance-blure74-I5300682-2007-01-Sale-I.htm

Guys, does this brand is good?


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[tp4tissue]

I've had good experience with the Lyons solder sucker as well as the Engineer ss-02.  My first attempt with a radio shack iron yielded similar results to yours.  It has 2 settings- off and burn.  Need a temperature controlled station for surface mount work like this.

https://www.lelong.com.my/soldering-station-nt936e-advance-blure74-I5300682-2007-01-Sale-I.htm

Guys, does this brand is good?


Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

You don't need anything expensive or name brand

Just get something with a basic resistor dial that can accept standardized replacement tips and that should be enough..

[Arios]

I've had good experience with the Lyons solder sucker as well as the Engineer ss-02.  My first attempt with a radio shack iron yielded similar results to yours.  It has 2 settings- off and burn.  Need a temperature controlled station for surface mount work like this.

https://www.lelong.com.my/soldering-station-nt936e-advance-blure74-I5300682-2007-01-Sale-I.htm

Guys, does this brand is good?


Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

You don't need anything expensive or name brand

Just get something with a basic resistor dial that can accept standardized replacement tips and that should be enough..

I thought I should get a good brand...
Does it necessary come with the temperature control? Changing tip is also a must?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[tp4tissue]

I've had good experience with the Lyons solder sucker as well as the Engineer ss-02.  My first attempt with a radio shack iron yielded similar results to yours.  It has 2 settings- off and burn.  Need a temperature controlled station for surface mount work like this.

https://www.lelong.com.my/soldering-station-nt936e-advance-blure74-I5300682-2007-01-Sale-I.htm

Guys, does this brand is good?


Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

You don't need anything expensive or name brand

Just get something with a basic resistor dial that can accept standardized replacement tips and that should be enough..

I thought I should get a good brand...
Does it necessary come with the temperature control? Changing tip is also a must?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

changing tips is necessary because it will eventually corrode and you'd need a new tip.

and you may need different size tips.


If you're engi-oriented in career/ hobby,  maybe consider getting a good one,  where you plan to do this all the time..   Keep in mind,  It's somewhat carcinogenic.. hahahaha.. 

[Arios]

Can you guys help me see the forth hole? Does it still fixed able? Or I need to get another set of this components?

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[digi]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

[Arios]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

This is my tool that I am using.

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[Arios]

I've had good experience with the Lyons solder sucker as well as the Engineer ss-02.  My first attempt with a radio shack iron yielded similar results to yours.  It has 2 settings- off and burn.  Need a temperature controlled station for surface mount work like this.

https://www.lelong.com.my/soldering-station-nt936e-advance-blure74-I5300682-2007-01-Sale-I.htm

Guys, does this brand is good?


Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

You don't need anything expensive or name brand

Just get something with a basic resistor dial that can accept standardized replacement tips and that should be enough..

I thought I should get a good brand...
Does it necessary come with the temperature control? Changing tip is also a must?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

changing tips is necessary because it will eventually corrode and you'd need a new tip.

and you may need different size tips.


If you're engi-oriented in career/ hobby,  maybe consider getting a good one,  where you plan to do this all the time..   Keep in mind,  It's somewhat carcinogenic.. hahahaha..

That's why I not sure is that possible I get this tool that I show you is helping
.

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[digi]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

This is my tool that I am using.

Show Image

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Mind as well pour some gasoline on it and set it on fire while you're at it...hahaha

[Arios]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

This is my tool that I am using.

Show Image

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Mind as well pour some gasoline on it and set it on fire while you're at it...hahaha

I know this wasn't a good one... Now I am looking for alternative

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[tp4tissue]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

This is my tool that I am using.

Show Image

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Mind as well pour some gasoline on it and set it on fire while you're at it...hahaha

Don't be mean digi..


Arios, it's fine, but remember 3 second rule..  and u need to watch the videos on using the pump.

[Arios]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

This is my tool that I am using.

Show Image

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Mind as well pour some gasoline on it and set it on fire while you're at it...hahaha

Don't be mean digi..


Arios, it's fine, but remember 3 second rule..  and u need to watch the videos on using the pump.

Before you told me this, I wasn't know about the 3 second rules.
But I will remember this and look for all the rules that I need to be prepare

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[Arios]

This is my pump

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[digi]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

This is my tool that I am using.

Show Image

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Mind as well pour some gasoline on it and set it on fire while you're at it...hahaha

Don't be mean digi..


Arios, it's fine, but remember 3 second rule..  and u need to watch the videos on using the pump.

The pcb is burn to a crisp see the first pic. Arios, didn't mean to sound mean, sorry but you have to keep the iron on the pad and wire that you're soldering, you shouldn't hold it on there longer than 3 seconds (2 is ideal). If it takes too long to melt the solder than that means your iron isn't getting hot enough (and staying hot).

[Arios]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

This is my tool that I am using.

Show Image

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Mind as well pour some gasoline on it and set it on fire while you're at it...hahaha

Don't be mean digi..


Arios, it's fine, but remember 3 second rule..  and u need to watch the videos on using the pump.

The pcb is burn to a crisp see the first pic. Arios, didn't mean to sound mean, sorry but you have to keep the iron on the pad and wire that you're soldering, you shouldn't hold it on there longer than 3 seconds (2 is ideal). If it takes too long to melt the solder than that means your iron isn't getting hot enough (and staying hot).

Is okay, I am doing not right.
But if I put the tip on the iron and it won't melt, but if I put iron above the tip it will melt. That is why I not sure how to do it.
Cause I also wonder is that fixable... Or can replace with something else.

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[tp4tissue]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

This is my tool that I am using.

Show Image

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Mind as well pour some gasoline on it and set it on fire while you're at it...hahaha

Don't be mean digi..


Arios, it's fine, but remember 3 second rule..  and u need to watch the videos on using the pump.

The pcb is burn to a crisp see the first pic. Arios, didn't mean to sound mean, sorry but you have to keep the iron on the pad and wire that you're soldering, you shouldn't hold it on there longer than 3 seconds (2 is ideal). If it takes too long to melt the solder than that means your iron isn't getting hot enough (and staying hot).

Is okay, I am doing not right.
But if I put the tip on the iron and it won't melt, but if I put iron above the tip it will melt. That is why I not sure how to do it.
Cause I also wonder is that fixable... Or can replace with something else.

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The tip might be too thin for what you're doing, or it's just not a good tip.


As for the pump.. Don't be afraid to touch the tip of the pump, (the white part)   To the soldering iron tip..

It can handle the heat as long as the duration is short.

EVEN IF the tip of the pump starts to melt,  that is ok, because if it's making good contact,  it's getting good suction.

[tp4tissue]

Can you guys help me see the forth hole? Does it still fixed able? Or I need to get another set of this components?

Show Image

Show Image

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it doesn't have to go directly into the hole..


If you can find what pin that hole goes to,  you can solder it to any part of the "Trace" down the line, 


You can even solder it to the pin (but i don't recommend that, because these pins are really close together)


Once you find the right trace,  scratch it a little with a knife to expose shiny copper, and you can solder the wire to that copper,

[Arios]

Actually i not sure about this too, i have quite a lot of things to learn first. If this is not working, i cant get keyboard to test, and i quite not sure what this called. As ou can see from the picture, can you see this cable still usable or i need to buy a new one. Cause i cant get this cable working...

[tp4tissue]

Actually i not sure about this too, i have quite a lot of things to learn first. If this is not working, i cant get keyboard to test, and i quite not sure what this called. As ou can see from the picture, can you see this cable still usable or i need to buy a new one. Cause i cant get this cable working...

the cable is fine.  it's just soldered up.

[Arios]

Actually i not sure about this too, i have quite a lot of things to learn first. If this is not working, i cant get keyboard to test, and i quite not sure what this called. As ou can see from the picture, can you see this cable still usable or i need to buy a new one. Cause i cant get this cable working...

the cable is fine.  it's just soldered up.

So if I solder it back, then this cable is still function?

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[tp4tissue]

Actually i not sure about this too, i have quite a lot of things to learn first. If this is not working, i cant get keyboard to test, and i quite not sure what this called. As ou can see from the picture, can you see this cable still usable or i need to buy a new one. Cause i cant get this cable working...

the cable is fine.  it's just soldered up.

So if I solder it back, then this cable is still function?

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yes, u just can't solder to that spot, it looks like the copper there is burned off

[OfTheWild]

Where are you located, Arios? Maybe there is a local group of people that could help you out.
It looks to me like there are a few factors that are making this more and more difficult for you, equipment might be amplifying some technique problems into real issues where you are damaging the pcb.

In my experience, if you can damage the PCB with the iron... it is too hot (or you were prying at it). For demonstration purposes during a meetup, i stuck a cheap $15 soldering iron that was adjustable on a medium setting where i could easily solder switches even with 15 year old radioshack lead free solder... and i left it stuck in a PCB hole for like 60 seconds or more and there was no damage.

[Arios]

Actually i not sure about this too, i have quite a lot of things to learn first. If this is not working, i cant get keyboard to test, and i quite not sure what this called. As ou can see from the picture, can you see this cable still usable or i need to buy a new one. Cause i cant get this cable working...

the cable is fine.  it's just soldered up.

So if I solder it back, then this cable is still function?

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yes, u just can't solder to that spot, it looks like the copper there is burned off

Yes the copper is burn off, that's why I wonder how could I get it done...

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[Arios]

Where are you located, Arios? Maybe there is a local group of people that could help you out.
It looks to me like there are a few factors that are making this more and more difficult for you, equipment might be amplifying some technique problems into real issues where you are damaging the pcb.

In my experience, if you can damage the PCB with the iron... it is too hot (or you were prying at it). For demonstration purposes during a meetup, i stuck a cheap $15 soldering iron that was adjustable on a medium setting where i could easily solder switches even with 15 year old radioshack lead free solder... and i left it stuck in a PCB hole for like 60 seconds or more and there was no damage.

I locate in Malaysia, my still is not good.just want to learn and try out new thing , turns out my PCB is destroy..
Can you see how could I do the flying wired on this PCB?



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[OfTheWild]

You are missing some basics somewhere. The good news is now you have a junk board to practice on!
I suspect there are multiple things going on... like your solder is wrong, your iron is way too hot... probably has a giant tip on it for burning wood or something, and i am guessing you just havent watched anyone do this close up. I highly recommend watching some youtube videos to get an idea of what this should look like and the speed.

[dorkvader]

arios, it's not just you or your equipment, that kind of board is pretty difficult to work on, as it has cheap lead free solder and it's not very friendly to work with. As you now know, it's easy to lift pads and damage traces.

Also, getting that USB connector soldered back will take some doing. it's going to be much harder to solder to the usb pads than to the place where the wire normally goes. you will likely need a much smaller tip to do it at all and it's only a 1 layer pcb there, and the pads are really close.

as it is now, this is a much more difficult project than I would expect a newbie to accomplish. I'm up for a challenge, so if you are OK to ship it to the USA and back I will do the labor for free.

I'm actually not 100 % sure what's going on with that spacebar, it looks like it can go in place the way it is now or rotated 180 degrees. I annotated the image with what lines are connected where, but there are some that are on the other side of the pcb, so I don't know where they go to. Do you have a multimeter to test continuity with?

here's the image. the red lines used to be connected and the yellow also, those go to the spacebar LED. Again, I'm not 100% sure what's going on there because it looks like it's possible to install the spacebar upside down so I'm not sure how they have it wired logically.

[Arios]

arios, it's not just you or your equipment, that kind of board is pretty difficult to work on, as it has cheap lead free solder and it's not very friendly to work with. As you now know, it's easy to lift pads and damage traces.

Also, getting that USB connector soldered back will take some doing. it's going to be much harder to solder to the usb pads than to the place where the wire normally goes. you will likely need a much smaller tip to do it at all and it's only a 1 layer pcb there, and the pads are really close.

as it is now, this is a much more difficult project than I would expect a newbie to accomplish. I'm up for a challenge, so if you are OK to ship it to the USA and back I will do the labor for free.

I'm actually not 100 % sure what's going on with that spacebar, it looks like it can go in place the way it is now or rotated 180 degrees. I annotated the image with what lines are connected where, but there are some that are on the other side of the pcb, so I don't know where they go to. Do you have a multimeter to test continuity with?

here's the image. the red lines used to be connected and the yellow also, those go to the spacebar LED. Again, I'm not 100% sure what's going on there because it looks like it's possible to install the spacebar upside down so I'm not sure how they have it wired logically.

Show Image

I am back, now the micro USB can consider can't work anymore. So I just bought few this week, but the problem is how do I get it work...
Windows will alert me use too much power, I scare the board will broke.

The thing you said, multimeter, can it help?

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[Sup]

I don't get it you totaly don't need a expensive desoldering tool i am doing fine with a 10 Euro soldering kit. It's all about how you use the tool.

[rich1051414]

I don't get it you totaly don't need a expensive desoldering tool i am doing fine with a 10 Euro soldering kit. It's all about how you use the tool.

I do. When working with lead free solder, I have problems with the manual pump in one hand and soldering gun in the other. The solder cools too fast and I can't clean it well enough. If I turn the heat up, it then damages things and has tendency to lift pads. I used to hate desoldering. It was the most frustrating thing imaginable after many many hours of experience, I still couldn't make the process relaxing. That was until I bought a hakko vaccuum pump desoldering tool. Now I can completely desolder a board in under 10 minutes while completely distracted having a conversation.

[pixelpusher]

I don't get it you totaly don't need a expensive desoldering tool i am doing fine with a 10 Euro soldering kit. It's all about how you use the tool.

I do. When working with lead free solder, I have problems with the manual pump in one hand and soldering gun in the other. The solder cools too fast and I can't clean it well enough. If I turn the heat up, it then damages things and has tendency to lift pads. I used to hate desoldering. It was the most frustrating thing imaginable after many many hours of experience, I still couldn't make the process relaxing. That was until I bought a hakko vaccuum pump desoldering tool. Now I can completely desolder a board in under 10 minutes while completely distracted having a conversation.

Yep.  I have one too.  Sick of trying to get the iron and pump right by each other only to have the
Solder cool too fast.  Bought the hakko desolder tool. Love it.

[rich1051414]

I don't get it you totaly don't need a expensive desoldering tool i am doing fine with a 10 Euro soldering kit. It's all about how you use the tool.

I do. When working with lead free solder, I have problems with the manual pump in one hand and soldering gun in the other. The solder cools too fast and I can't clean it well enough. If I turn the heat up, it then damages things and has tendency to lift pads. I used to hate desoldering. It was the most frustrating thing imaginable after many many hours of experience, I still couldn't make the process relaxing. That was until I bought a hakko vaccuum pump desoldering tool. Now I can completely desolder a board in under 10 minutes while completely distracted having a conversation.

Yep.  I have one too.  Sick of trying to get the iron and pump right by each other only to have the
Solder cool too fast.  Bought the hakko desolder tool. Love it.

All I recommend for people to do is to buy it with a tip of a larger bore and use it instead of the one it comes with. A lot of the time theres bits of leads floating around in the solder, and the tip it comes with has a bore too small. All it takes is sucking up one lead and that tip is forever jammed. A larger bore is really needed for the lead size of mechanical switches anyway, so it can fit over the switch leads without forcing anything.

Man it is easy when it gets set up right. I had no idea what I was missing until I finally broke down and bought it. I just assumed it was supposed to be a pain...

[jcoffin1981]

What are you using to solder? A waffle iron?!  )

This is my tool that I am using.

Show Image

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Mind as well pour some gasoline on it and set it on fire while you're at it...hahaha

Don't be mean digi..


Arios, it's fine, but remember 3 second rule..  and u need to watch the videos on using the pump.

The pcb is burn to a crisp see the first pic. Arios, didn't mean to sound mean, sorry but you have to keep the iron on the pad and wire that you're soldering, you shouldn't hold it on there longer than 3 seconds (2 is ideal). If it takes too long to melt the solder than that means your iron isn't getting hot enough (and staying hot).

Is okay, I am doing not right.
But if I put the tip on the iron and it won't melt, but if I put iron above the tip it will melt. That is why I not sure how to do it.
Cause I also wonder is that fixable... Or can replace with something else.

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The tip might be too thin for what you're doing, or it's just not a good tip.


As for the pump.. Don't be afraid to touch the tip of the pump, (the white part)   To the soldering iron tip..

It can handle the heat as long as the duration is short.

EVEN IF the tip of the pump starts to melt,  that is ok, because if it's making good contact,  it's getting good suction.

Too little surface area on the tip. You want to use a little wider part and wedge it between the pin and solder mound.  As soon as the solder is melted, use your cocked sucker.  Press down over the tip and release.  A groove may start to develop in the tip as it wears/melts.  This is a bonus as it increases contact.     Oh and press the pin a little.