How crazy can you get with the color? Pantone 389C possible?
Are you willing to declare a lowered value of the package when shipping overseas? Everything with a declared value above ~35$ gets taxed 25% in Norway, and I would like to avoid that if possible.
Concerning taxes, I'm going to list these at a value of around $45 when I ship internationally rather than the price paid. I think this is totally legit because the only reason these cost so much is that they're being made in a very small volume as effectively custom pieces, so we're really paying most of that money for professional and machining services. If you look at the cost of materials and what these would cost if they were made at large scale as normal consumer products, I think $45 is a totally valid and defensible amount to list for customs purposes. I think this will keep us out of trouble (versus listing these as "gifts" with a value of $1 or something), but without folks having to pay needlessly exorbitant import duties.
Great options and fair prices! Now if I can just pick a color!!!
I have a request. Is there any way you could get a close up photo of white version that shows the beveled corner, like you did with the anodized? I just want to see how sharp the seam and corners are with the power coating.
Does this support ducky g2pro tkl?
Nice i'm in for this been waiting too long for this to not get it now :thumb:
Shipping did make me cry though non american pain :'(
$45 elsewhere outside the US (expensive, I know, but I'm at the mercy of USPS and am actually offering a $10-20 price break to international buyers by charging less to ship abroad than it costs me in postage)Thank you, that's very kind!
$45 elsewhere outside the US (expensive, I know, but I'm at the mercy of USPS and am actually offering a $10-20 price break to international buyers by charging less to ship abroad than it costs me in postage)Thank you, that's very kind!
I am still undecided about the color. Would it be possible to get a photo with all three black, gray and white cases on there? With white and black as a reference point, it should make it easier to assess the "grayness" of the gray case.
I actually no longer have the white sample case, but I can shoot the two gray and black cases on a white background if that would be helpful.Sounds good, thanks again!
The custom color option is tempting of course. Anybody got an idea what color code for anodizing would come close to what Apple is using on its MacBooks?
Damn kinda wish I had a novatouch now! Thought of making Realforce ones? There aren't many digilog ones around and they not the best design anyway. Best of luck with this project.
Lovely! Just placed an order.
Would be very interested to see how many orders come through in the next couple of days.
Does this support ducky g2pro tkl?
Very nicely made website.
Would there be an option for local pickup? I remember reading you're from SF.
Thank you Norbauer for making this possible and for taking all the time you needed to make the case as good as it could be.
Anyone know of a good resource for finding pantone colors for metallic/aluminum finish? I have Photoshop and a professional monitor for better color accuracy, but I'm not sure which pantone library to load.
+1 on your thoughts for clear anodizing (silver), or if that would be considered a custom color.
Is a silver option possible? I know it probably isn't exactly a pant one color, just wondering haha
What Pantone color is the "Warm Grey" option already available?
Waiting patiently for news on the Enigma Black sub-buy.
I'm another lurker from the IC thread. Fantastic to see the option for custom powder coating - did not expect that!
Would you mind posting the physical dimensions of the case? Mainly interested in how tall the front is compared to the stock case.
Very nicely made website.
Would there be an option for local pickup? I remember reading you're from SF.
Local pickup is totally fine—always happy to meet fellow keyboard nerds in person. :) I'm in Redwood City down in Silicon Valley.
Trying to figure out what custom color I want - do you think Pantone 295C will result in a nice midnight/navy blue? https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/295-C
Trying to figure out what custom color I want - do you think Pantone 295C will result in a nice midnight/navy blue? https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/295-C
295C is very dark navy (almost black), but it sounds like that is what you're going for. The metallic aluminum showing through from below will lighten that a tad, so yes, I would say that's a good choice if very dark blue is what you're seeking. :)
:thumb:
Currently trying to decide between warm gray and space white. About the latter, the store's description says that the powder coating will only be applied to the visible surfaces of the case. I therefore wonder what the finish will look like at the joint between the two case halves. May we get a close-up picture of that area once you receive the powder-coated prototype from the CN shop?
Also, any chance for the Galaxy Class set to make a come-back in the future? I passed on it when it dropped and only realize now it looks really good in your pictures with the warm gray anodized case.
Waiting patiently for news on the Enigma Black sub-buy.
If anybody is particularly keen on on a case in Enigma Black (wrinkle coat), my recommendation is actually to buy a custom color as part of this group buy and put in "Enigma black" as your color of choice in the "special instructions for seller" field of the cart.
The only caveat on that is it'll take me around a month longer to deliver those, as I'll have to get them powder coated here locally in the SF area. What I'll essentially do is order a case for you as part of this group buy without any pigment finishing and then drive it over to a powder coat place here locally. A bit unsophisticated, but it should work, and my sense is that it'll cost about what the add-on fee is for the custom color (hopefully). Sorry for the extra cost on these. I tried to get the factory to do wrinkle coat, but they consider this a specialty finish that is beyond their scope of expertise.
Trying to figure out what custom color I want - do you think Pantone 295C will result in a nice midnight/navy blue? https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/295-C
295C is very dark navy (almost black), but it sounds like that is what you're going for. The metallic aluminum showing through from below will lighten that a tad, so yes, I would say that's a good choice if very dark blue is what you're seeking. :)
Perfect, thanks! Probably placing an order tonight. :D
Damn kinda wish I had a novatouch now! Thought of making Realforce ones? There aren't many digilog ones around and they not the best design anyway. Best of luck with this project.
I was actually just about to PM you about this, but I totally agree with that and may very well tackle RealForce cases next if this group buy turns out not to have been too much work. ;)
hi,Please share a pic!
i'm am interested as well, but i don't know if there is enough space underneath the keyboard.
I also have a "rapid I" but I added a diy track-point to get rid of my mouse :D
I drilled through the pcb and added a teensy+Trackpoint from an old T40 Leptop keyboard.
In order to fit i would need at least 5mm space for the teensy 2.0 + isolation
Has the feet height been reduced from what is shown in the CAD picture in the IC's OP?
Just to confirm; does this support the Quickfire Rapid, or only the Rapid-i?
I assume the latter, but dont want to miss out if that's not the case.
@norbauer could you measure the distance from the egde within the case where the PCB is fixed on to the actual maximum inner bottom like
the profile below?
_
| |
| |_
| |
| | <- this depth
| |______
Thanks for your efforts norbauer!
I've been following this project since the beginning and it's nice to see it come to fruition. I like how receptive you were of everyone's feedback in the final design.
I'll be ordering a case in the next couple of days. :thumb:
Damn kinda wish I had a novatouch now! Thought of making Realforce ones? There aren't many digilog ones around and they not the best design anyway. Best of luck with this project.
I was actually just about to PM you about this, but I totally agree with that and may very well tackle RealForce cases next if this group buy turns out not to have been too much work. ;)
Just a quick update everyone. mrkevint helped me identify a bug in the shipping costs to Canada. They were previously showing as higher than they should have, but the problem should now be fixed. Thanks, mrkevint!
Damn kinda wish I had a novatouch now! Thought of making Realforce ones? There aren't many digilog ones around and they not the best design anyway. Best of luck with this project.
I was actually just about to PM you about this, but I totally agree with that and may very well tackle RealForce cases next if this group buy turns out not to have been too much work. ;)
please make this happen!
Damn kinda wish I had a novatouch now! Thought of making Realforce ones? There aren't many digilog ones around and they not the best design anyway. Best of luck with this project.
I was actually just about to PM you about this, but I totally agree with that and may very well tackle RealForce cases next if this group buy turns out not to have been too much work. ;)
please make this happen!
Let me get through this group buy, but I'll happily turn my attention to that in the new year. I've actually already had some thoughts on how to approach the design to improve on some of the others out there and will perhaps start and IC thread soon. For now, though, my focus is Cooler Master cases. ;)
I actually no longer have the white sample case, but I can shoot the two gray and black cases on a white background if that would be helpful.
How thight is the fit of the micro usb cable? Will a custom cable with a connector like this http://i.imgur.com/7rj7y0d.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/7rj7y0d.jpg) fit?
I actually no longer have the white sample case, but I can shoot the two gray and black cases on a white background if that would be helpful.
Are you still planning to make those shots or did I overlook them in the Dropbox folder?
I actually no longer have the white sample case, but I can shoot the two gray and black cases on a white background if that would be helpful.
Are you still planning to make those shots or did I overlook them in the Dropbox folder?
Thank you norbauer for making this happen. Case arrived and looking gorgeous!!
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Hi Norbauer:
I am a KB PM working at Cooler Master now.
Much appreciated it, and all CNC cases are looks awesome.
With you can make more cases.
Sincerely.
What's the distribution between black/warm grey/other colors in the orders until now?
I've ordered the black one, but I'm considering switching to the warm gray (if possible, and if I can decide before the cutoff!).
What's the distribution between black/warm grey/other colors in the orders until now?
I've ordered the black one, but I'm considering switching to the warm gray (if possible, and if I can decide before the cutoff!).
Wow. That was fast. I'm so happy you're pleased. :)
In case anyone is curious, btw, that is an early prototype case that bubbedi purchased from me.
Say, is anybody here a member of Deskthority or any of the Korean sites? If so and you could post a link to the group buy there, that would be awesome.
Best links would be to this thread and/or the group buy purchase page (https://shop.norbauer.com/products/custom-cnc-aluminum-case-for-coolermaster-novatouch-rapid-i-and-masterkeys-keyboards).
Thanks!
Just under a week left. Orders are currently at less than half the survey responses, so keep 'em coming. :)
If I've missed any questions in the flurry above, please don't hesitate to re-post requests for info here, or email me directly using the address at the bottom of the store (http://shop.norbauer.com).
I plan to buy one, just wanted to wait on seeing closeup images of the production white version before I choose a color
I made a post on about the group buy on reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5df9as/buying_custom_cnc_aluminum_cases_for_cooler/I also made one a couple of days ago, but I don't think this can get too much publicity: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5c85bj/buying_norbauers_group_buy_for_custom_cnc/
I plan to buy one, just wanted to wait on seeing closeup images of the production white version before I choose a color
I don't think I'm going to be able to take pics of a white powder coat sample before the end of the group buy. I do have a blue powder coated prototype. Everything will be the same except the color. Will that work? Were there any particular features you wanted me to photograph?
OMG I cannot choose a color and it's killing me. I have always wanted a white case, but I really feel that a clear anodized finish would be a better backdrop for any keycap set down the road. :blank:
I left a note on the order, but you can just hold on to the keyboard until the case is ready if it will save me extra shipping.
I left a note on the order, but you can just hold on to the keyboard until the case is ready if it will save me extra shipping.
Of course. I'll even install it for you. :)
Do you still need the powder coat corner photo?
No need for photos. Thanks
Friendly reminder: if you're ordering a custom color and want a silver finish (similar to a Macbook), please put "clear anodizing" in the order notes in your shopping cart. Thanks! :)
Friendly reminder: if you're ordering a custom color and want a silver finish (similar to a Macbook), please put "clear anodizing" in the order notes in your shopping cart. Thanks! :)
I see a lot of people showing interest in clear anodizing. Would it be possible to bring the price down for one or more custom colors if several people order it?
Clear anodizing is high on my list, but the extra cost is a killer for me.
This showed up in my FB feed today. Interesting. :)
Don't leave without me! :)
Decisions are hard. The gray case looks so sharp donning the Galaxy set but custom white cases don't come around often. If only white could be an option for anodization.
Don't leave without me! :)
Decisions are hard. The gray case looks so sharp donning the Galaxy set but custom white cases don't come around often. If only white could be an option for anodization.
This showed up in my FB feed today. Interesting. :)
Yup, I figured I'd play with Facebook ads. I've never used them before and this is the first occasion I had to play with them. It basically just magically figures out people who have already visited the site and shows them a reminder on Facebook. I know from previous experience that as soon as the group buy is over, I'll get a flood of emails from people who are sad that they just missed it by a few hours or whatever and want me to add them in. I was hoping that helping to remind people in this way would minimize that. But we'll see. ;) Anyway, it only costs a few dollars, so I figured what the heck.
You can ignore my inquiry I had the time just now to read previous posts. Damn been looking all over for regular qfr and qfs cases I can't find one. I find these but they are not compatible would have bought 2 for mr quickfiresConsidering the price of this case vs. the price of a qfr/qfs, why not just get a compatible CM board and the case? Are the new (compatible) boards that different from the older ones?
Tex cases for filco boards fit QFR but the led indicators are different.
Does this work with a novatouch?Yes
Aargh... so on the fence about this. The case looks amazing, but I just ordered a Novatouch two days ago and haven't even received it yet. I want to make sure I'm going to like it first :-\
Thanks everybody! We're all set now and I'll begin tallying everything up, finalizing logistics, and submitting the order to the factory in the next few days. We are currently looking at a manufacturing lead time of 40 works days (which I think includes Saturdays) from next Monday.Thanks again for running this. You da man!
I'll continue to provide updates here periodically, but I'll do so more regularly by creating an email list of the people who submitted orders and messaging them directly when there is news.
Now we mostly just sit back and wait. :)
Thanks everybody! We're all set now and I'll begin tallying everything up, finalizing logistics, and submitting the order to the factory in the next few days. We are currently looking at a manufacturing lead time of 40 works days (which I think includes Saturdays) from next Monday.
I'll continue to provide updates here periodically, but I'll do so more regularly by creating an email list of the people who submitted orders and messaging them directly when there is news.
Now we mostly just sit back and wait. :)
Thanks Norbauer for making this possible. Now begin thinking also in the RF CNC case...
Friendly reminder: the group buy ends in just a few hours (midnight, PST).
We've hit our MOQ, so no pressure. But I probably won't be doing another group buy for this same case, so if you're on the fence, this is your chance. :)
D'oh! I missed it! Nooooo! lol
Man I had been putting off on the purchase waiting for a nice time to break it to my wife and I was literally a day late.
Any chance you will be doing another group buy for the novatouch at some point?
@norbauer, you might want to remove the "TAKING ORDERS" from the title of this topic.
Thanks! PM sent - hopefully you got it. It said the message was sent successfully but I can't see it in my sent messages.
Thanks! PM sent - hopefully you got it. It said the message was sent successfully but I can't see it in my sent messages.
Thanks! PM sent - hopefully you got it. It said the message was sent successfully but I can't see it in my sent messages.
Did you hit the checkbox labeled with "Save a copy in my outbox"?
Sooo Regret I did not join this groupbuy and now I got a novatouch. I hope there would be another round of groupbuy or some left over even if they are B stocks.
I'm a little behind on my PMs at the moment, but feel free to PM or email me and I'll try to figure something out for you (and anyone else in a similar situation). I have a couple spare prototypes on hand now, and will likely have a very small handful of extras once the run is complete. I'll just start a list of people who missed out but wanted in. When spares become available, I will just go down the list and give priority to the people who PM'd me first.
ordered 3~!!!
Expedited international (tracked, insured) 75$.....lol
i'm just waiting for
I just received a Novatouch just for this case, so I'm really impatient now!
Latest update from the factory: estimated completion date is around January 7. It'll still take some time after that for the cases to make their way to me and then to be shipped out again, but we're still roughly on target. Hopefully all continues to go according to plan. :)
Latest update from the factory: estimated completion date is around January 7. It'll still take some time after that for the cases to make their way to me and then to be shipped out again, but we're still roughly on target. Hopefully all continues to go according to plan. :)
How many were ordered in total?
praying that a real force 87u case is still in the plans!
praying that a real force 87u case is still in the plans!
Early experiments are already underway! :D
So what's everyone's plans for their case?
praying that a real force 87u case is still in the plans!
Early experiments are already underway! :D
So what's everyone's plans for their case?
I was going to put my silenced Novatouch with Pulse SA in it. I personally think SA caps sound and feel great on the NT.
https://www.amazon.com/QuickFire-Mechanical-Keyboard-ActivLite-Technology/dp/B00JM61264/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481692656&sr=1-4&keywords=cm+storm+quickfire
If anyone in the US needed a Rapid-I Brown for $72
Also Does anyone know if I can change the springs on a Masterkeys Small without desolidering?
Any chance it would be possible to add some feet to an existing order?
I think I will put some SAD along with hyperfuse on it.
Tough I would prefer something better readable than hyperfuse....
Is there a chance for round 2? If not, could I be on the waiting list for extras/prototypes?
Really clean design. Wish I could see it myself in the next meetup in the Bay Area.
Really clean design. Wish I could see it myself in the next meetup in the Bay Area.
I'd be happy to bring one along. Are there regular meet-ups? If so, know where I can find info on them? I moved here recently from Boston and so am not quiet hooked into the keyboard scene here, but surely there must be one. ;)
Really clean design. Wish I could see it myself in the next meetup in the Bay Area.
I'd be happy to bring one along. Are there regular meet-ups? If so, know where I can find info on them? I moved here recently from Boston and so am not quiet hooked into the keyboard scene here, but surely there must be one. ;)
Really clean design. Wish I could see it myself in the next meetup in the Bay Area.
I'd be happy to bring one along. Are there regular meet-ups? If so, know where I can find info on them? I moved here recently from Boston and so am not quiet hooked into the keyboard scene here, but surely there must be one. ;)
There's one at WASD Keyboards in Fremont on the 21st, but I don't think these cases will be on hand by then.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86371.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86371.0)
Really clean design. Wish I could see it myself in the next meetup in the Bay Area.
I'd be happy to bring one along. Are there regular meet-ups? If so, know where I can find info on them? I moved here recently from Boston and so am not quiet hooked into the keyboard scene here, but surely there must be one. ;)
There's one at WASD Keyboards in Fremont on the 21st, but I don't think these cases will be on hand by then.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86371.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86371.0)
Oh cool. I just ordered something from WASD yesterday and noticed that they're in Fremont! There is a chance the keyboard cases might just have arrived that same week. If so, I'll certainly bring a few along, including yours, eksuen. :)
Could you bring mine as well if it makes it in on time? :D
Could you bring mine as well if it makes it in on time? :D
Of course!
Oh cool. I just ordered something from WASD yesterday and noticed that they're in Fremont! There is a chance the keyboard cases might just have arrived that same week. If so, I'll certainly bring a few along, including yours, eksuen. :)
Good news: the CNC machining is now all complete and the finishes are currently being applied (including bead blasting before pigments are added), with anodizing being the one that takes longest. The factory will get the anodized cases back on 13 January, and then the cases will be quality checked and packed (adding a few more days) and then sent to me in the USA for individual shipment to group buy participants. So I think we're roughly on track for everything. It'll be a bit of a scramble for me to get everything out the door by the end of January, but I think I can do it, or thereabouts. (Hopefully there will be no hold-ups at customs coming into the US.) Exciting stuff!Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7116954/Novatouch%20Round%201/cnc-parts-at-factory.png)
Being late, but registered for another round, I wanted to ask if this case is compatible with a Rapid-Si keyboard?
Being late, but registered for another round, I wanted to ask if this case is compatible with a Rapid-Si keyboard?
It's not. Only compatible with Novatouch and Masterkeys S
... a group buy for custom CNC aluminum cases for CoolerMaster Novatouch, Rapid-i, and Masterkeys TKL boards (and only those).
These cases are custom designed to fit only the following Cooler Master "tenkeyless" models:
Novatouch TKL
Rapid-i ("small" model)
MasterKeys Pro S ("small"/"80%" layout)
Hmm, I read that, but was not sure. Rapid-Si means just 'stealth', so I thought it is an Rapid-i but with other caps. Confused.
Hmm, I read that, but was not sure. Rapid-Si means just 'stealth', so I thought it is an Rapid-i but with other caps. Confused.
Based on photos of the keyboard, I think it would probably fit, as all the CM cases I've seen that have that chassis design also use the same plate, but I'd have to test it to be sure. The list that reececonrad posted above are the only ones where I'm confident that the plate fits inside the case because I actually tested those.
How's production looking? Any hope at getting it at the NorCal meetup this weekend?
When I measure the plate or other parts could you say that it could fit?
How's production looking? Any hope at getting it at the NorCal meetup this weekend?
I'm told that the cases are being quality checked right now and should ship before the Chinese New Year (i.e., this week). However, unless they ship tomorrow and have zero holdup at customs, they probably will just narrowly miss the meet-up, unfortunately. =\ Most probably, they'll arrive to me early or middle of next week.
How's production looking? Any hope at getting it at the NorCal meetup this weekend?
I'm told that the cases are being quality checked right now and should ship before the Chinese New Year (i.e., this week). However, unless they ship tomorrow and have zero holdup at customs, they probably will just narrowly miss the meet-up, unfortunately. =\ Most probably, they'll arrive to me early or middle of next week.
How's production looking? Any hope at getting it at the NorCal meetup this weekend?
I'm told that the cases are being quality checked right now and should ship before the Chinese New Year (i.e., this week). However, unless they ship tomorrow and have zero holdup at customs, they probably will just narrowly miss the meet-up, unfortunately. =\ Most probably, they'll arrive to me early or middle of next week.
Would love to see even just the prototype in the meet-up. ;D
Each day without you posting, Ryan, is a very tough day.
Oh there are gonna be 50 of these with the Novatouch on Originative for sale and the pricing is pretty decent at $375 so if any of you guys missed out I would spam check their website tomorrow https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5p0dff/novatouch_tkl_cnc_alu_case/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5p0dff/novatouch_tkl_cnc_alu_case/). Wondering how they are gonna manage to modify and ship all the keyboards out by next week if these cases haven't even arrived at Norbauer's. :confused:
So excited! What did the color breakdown end up being?
Please put me on the list for R2.. i have a Zealio filled QFR-i and a metal case would make it perfect. Maybe even Endgame... maybe
For my part, I decided to splurge to and got one in faux copper finish; I'm very eager to show how that turned out—will post pics. :cool:
So excited! What did the color breakdown end up being?
I'm not in front of my spreadsheet at the moment, but I know warm gray was the big winner, followed closely by black, with white a very distant third. :) A surprisingly large number of people also opted for custom colors: blue, green, and silver/clear. For my part, I decided to splurge to and got one in faux copper finish; I'm very eager to show how that turned out—will post pics. :cool:
However that would be very skewed because of Originative's orders right as they did 50 in warm grey which was pretty much half of the entire groupbuy if I remember right? I reckon for R2 it would be a good idea to get the most popular custom colour (silver probably) and replace maybe white or black as a standard option as if lots of people are willing to pay the premium for the custom colour in R1 it makes sense that it would be more popular as a standard cheaper colour and encourage some people who skipped the R1 because of the lack of the color they wanted. Might help a round 2 reach MOQ as i'd imagine with Novatouches being out of production that much of the demand has died down.
Are the Enigma Black orders still on track to be fulfilled a month after the other orders?
Oh there are gonna be 50 of these with the Novatouch on Originative for sale and the pricing is pretty decent at $375 so if any of you guys missed out I would spam check their website tomorrow https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5p0dff/novatouch_tkl_cnc_alu_case/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5p0dff/novatouch_tkl_cnc_alu_case/). Wondering how they are gonna manage to modify and ship all the keyboards out by next week if these cases haven't even arrived at Norbauer's. :confused:
However that would be very skewed because of Originative's orders right as they did 50 in warm grey which was pretty much half of the entire groupbuy if I remember right? I reckon for R2 it would be a good idea to get the most popular custom colour (silver probably) and replace maybe white or black as a standard option as if lots of people are willing to pay the premium for the custom colour in R1 it makes sense that it would be more popular as a standard cheaper colour and encourage some people who skipped the R1 because of the lack of the color they wanted. Might help a round 2 reach MOQ as i'd imagine with Novatouches being out of production that much of the demand has died down.
Valid points, but still too much for me to think about right now. :rolleyes: For whatever it's worth, however, Originative got its own custom color of gray. It is less warm and darker than the warm gray, sort of like a dark gunmetal. I imagine they'll have photos up soon once the cases arrive.
Hey Norbauer, have you considered doing an FC660C case for R2?
Unlike the HHKB it's plate mounted like the NT and other Realforce boards so it should be the same difficulty in terms of manufacturing.
EDIT: added a second photo.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/INAvjH9.jpg)
EDIT: added a second photo.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/INAvjH9.jpg)
What is that open switch board with the blue arrow keys? That looks sexy
The blue case is really nice in person. I couldn't quite capture the beauty of the case in a photo, but here's a pic for what it's worth. This not 100% color accurate.
EDIT: added a second photo.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dpr3jXO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/INAvjH9.jpg)
https://www.originativeco.com/products/novatouch-alucase?variant=25368557968
Well thats a bummer... looks like paying the extra premium for a silver case wasn't that worth it.
https://www.originativeco.com/products/novatouch-alucase?variant=25368557968
Well thats a bummer... looks like paying the extra premium for a silver case wasn't that worth it.
The blue case is really nice in person. I couldn't quite capture the beauty of the case in a photo, but here's a pic for what it's worth. This not 100% color accurate.
EDIT: added a second photo.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dpr3jXO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/INAvjH9.jpg)
Only a few weeks until cases start arriving to buyers. Anything we should know about the process of swapping the case? Guessing you've opened up a few of these by now.
The blue case is really nice in person. I couldn't quite capture the beauty of the case in a photo, but here's a pic for what it's worth. This not 100% color accurate.
EDIT: added a second photo.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dpr3jXO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/INAvjH9.jpg)
That looks GORGEOUS :eek:
Galaxy Class set too, I need to get me one of those for my warm gray case like in the pics ;)
Only a few weeks until cases start arriving to buyers. Anything we should know about the process of swapping the case? Guessing you've opened up a few of these by now.
There's four screws on the bottom of the keyboard holding the top cover in place. Note that one of the screws is under the Novatouch sticker. Once you remove those and separate the top from the bottom, there's two smaller screws holding the USB port to the bottom tray. Remove those and the guts of the keyboard should come right out.
Only a few weeks until cases start arriving to buyers. Anything we should know about the process of swapping the case? Guessing you've opened up a few of these by now.
There's four screws on the bottom of the keyboard holding the top cover in place. Note that one of the screws is under the Novatouch sticker. Once you remove those and separate the top from the bottom, there's two smaller screws holding the USB port to the bottom tray. Remove those and the guts of the keyboard should come right out.
I've been hoping to write up some instructions to post with photos, but this pretty much sums it up. The only additional point I'd make is that the two halves of the case are pretty well locked together via plastic tabs and depressions that seat inside of each other, so I always have to use one or two big flat-head screwdrivers (or other type of wedge) to get the case open. Also, yes, it took me a while to figure out that one of the screws on the bottom of the case is always hidden under sticker. I think one of the cases (the Masterkeys maybe?) actually had two of these. So if the case isn't budging open at all, hunt around under the stickers on the bottom of the case; you've probably missed a screw.
Also, do you know what pantone color originativeco.com used for their dark grey version? I ordered a custom grey for myself (7540 C) so I'm curious.
Also, do you know what pantone color originativeco.com used for their dark grey version? I ordered a custom grey for myself (7540 C) so I'm curious.
The "dark gray" ended up being "Cool Gray 11C," which is actually almost identical to 7540C.
I think that's the nature of the housing itself. Plastic tends to give a deeper kind of thock, even in old Alps boards, compared to a solid piece of aluminum or even a metal-backed vintage board. My metal-backed boards have a shallower sound, but also a crisper sound too.
My Orion and Mira have a sound that's not as deep as you'd hear from typing on an an Alps SKCM Blue board in a vintage plastic case. Very resonant with all that extra space too. It also, of course, depends on the typing surface as well. Some sounds get deadened. My desk has a mat over it, so you don't hear the impacts of the keypresses against the desk much at all.
When I measure the plate or other parts could you say that it could fit?
Could you maybe post a pic of the underside of the plate and the USB cable that lives on the interior of the case? That should probably be enough for me to be able to say.
When I measure the plate or other parts could you say that it could fit?
Could you maybe post a pic of the underside of the plate and the USB cable that lives on the interior of the case? That should probably be enough for me to be able to say.
Does this picture help?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qPU9wIp.jpg)
Incidentally, the keyboard cases are currently in Los Angeles waiting for customs processing. Apparently a lot of factories try to rush stuff out the door right before the long Chinese New Year factory closings in China, so customs here in the US is a bit backed up. I'll continue to provide updates as I have them.
Incidentally, the keyboard cases are currently in Los Angeles waiting for customs processing. Apparently a lot of factories try to rush stuff out the door right before the long Chinese New Year factory closings in China, so customs here in the US is a bit backed up. I'll continue to provide updates as I have them.
Yep, customs in China can also get backed thanks to factories rushing to get stuff on the water before CNY. Happened with one of my ocean shipments, Chinese customs delays made the container miss it's boat, unfortunately.
Hey Norbauer, have you considered doing an FC660C case for R2?
Unlike the HHKB it's plate mounted like the NT and other Realforce boards so it should be the same difficulty in terms of manufacturing.
I second that, a 660C case would be great. There might currently be more 87U Realforces than 660C boards out there, though.
Hey Norbauer, have you considered doing an FC660C case for R2?
Unlike the HHKB it's plate mounted like the NT and other Realforce boards so it should be the same difficulty in terms of manufacturing.
I second that, a 660C case would be great. There might currently be more 87U Realforces than 660C boards out there, though.
I would also be in for a 660C case. There has been a lot of complaints about how the FC660M alu case on MD does NOT fit the 660C, due to a slightly shifted USB port cutout.
Hey Norbauer, have you considered doing an FC660C case for R2?
Unlike the HHKB it's plate mounted like the NT and other Realforce boards so it should be the same difficulty in terms of manufacturing.
I second that, a 660C case would be great. There might currently be more 87U Realforces than 660C boards out there, though.
I would also be in for a 660C case. There has been a lot of complaints about how the FC660M alu case on MD does NOT fit the 660C, due to a slightly shifted USB port cutout.
If he did run one, I wonder if you could drop a clueboard 66% into it still? Would be nice to have a 66% or 68% fully programmable in a nice aluminum case. I guess the plate for the clueboard and MD case are probably meant to fit together, so maybe not.
Will there be a round 2 anytime soon?
Will there be a round 2 anytime soon?
Enough people have emailed to ask me to do so that a swift round 2 is currently my plan, but I want to focus on getting this one done first before committing to anything. :) Join the following list, if you'd like, and you'll be among the first to know.
http://norbauer.us7.list-manage.com/subscribe?u=03bd2d8a9d2480d7fda4743d1&id=c4bbb079d4
I now have the cases and so far everything looks good. More updates soon. :)
Haha. I'll have pics tomorrow, guys. I've been working all day unwrapping, re-wrapping, taping together boxes, etc. First cases should go out later this week and I expect most everything to be out the door by the following week.
Haha. I'll have pics tomorrow, guys. I've been working all day unwrapping, re-wrapping, taping together boxes, etc. First cases should go out later this week and I expect most everything to be out the door by the following week.
Are there two types of feet? looks like it in those images
Oh wow so hyped for these to arrive! I see that some of the cases and riser feet are black I thought that you were going to go around to local companies to get the blacks done later? Or are they some sort of very dark grey can't tell. Anyway great job they look amazing in the pictures. :thumb:
Just a note on the screw-in feet. The threading was a little loose on mine, but wrapping the screw with Scotch tape and then screwing it in fixed it.
Silly question, but do these cases work with the other screw-in feet that you see for keyboard kits and other cases?
I think I forgot to order riser feet for my case and I'm kicking myself.
Silly question, but do these cases work with the other screw-in feet that you see for keyboard kits and other cases?
I think I forgot to order riser feet for my case and I'm kicking myself.
That's a good question. eksuen pointed out to me last night that those feet commonly don't have a stem on them like mine but rather have a threaded hole into which a screw inserts from the interior of the case. So it would really depend on the size of the screw that the hole accepts. If you have feet where that screw is less than 4.4mm in diameter, they might very well work, but I haven't tested this and didn't explicitly design around that problem, as I couldn't get good specs on any "standard" feet during the IC thread. If folks can give me details on how these other feet work, I'd be happy to make a modification for next time around to accept them with a greater degree of certainty.
Also, if you missed out on ordering riser feet, you can always do so in round 2. I plan to offer those separately from the cases since several people have now made that request
I picked up my case today. As far as I know, this is the first one out in the wild! :p These cases turned out AMAZINGLY well, and whoever got the green one is going to love it because holy **** it looks lovely. I will definitely be getting a green one come R2.
Just a note on the screw-in feet. The threading was a little loose on mine, but wrapping the screw with Scotch tape and then screwing it in fixed it.
My pics do not come close to doing the case justice and TA is difficult to capture without natural lighting, but for what it's worth:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CMcCdyv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DmsFGSz.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/viZ7EO2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gc5wQeo.jpg)
Great pics eksuen!
Can't wait to receive my own white case and experiment with different keycap sets :thumb:
Nice pictures. We need more!
And the NT finally gets the case it deserves, looking like a beautiful aluminum custom. If only it had a winkeyless bottom row option.
Here's a pic with some temperature adjustment done to better reflect what the OCo grey looks like in person under white light. The weight on this case is amazing.
Special guest: RAMA WAVEShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/as5SCMr.jpg)
Here's a pic with some temperature adjustment done to better reflect what the OCo grey looks like in person under white light. The weight on this case is amazing.
Special guest: RAMA WAVEShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/as5SCMr.jpg)
How different is the gray from the warm gray in the GB? Is the OCO still pretty warm? I expected a much darker cooler gray.
I received mine today from Originative. It looks great. I didn't receive any bump-on feet for the case, so be warned you will need to buy some as the alu case will scratch your desk if it slides.
My only complaint is that on the CM Novatouch board, there are two screws that hold the PCB in place in the case. There was no way to screw the PCB into the aluminum case and as a result, the PCB very slightly moves in the case. Maybe I missed something installing these, but I would hope that doesn't damage the PCB board.
Bottom piece is uneven. When its lying flat, there's wobble when I touch a corner. This does not go away after attaching feet. Incredibly annoying, but maybe some rubber feet will help even it out. Not sure if I have other options here.
Bottom piece is uneven. When its lying flat, there's wobble when I touch a corner. This does not go away after attaching feet. Incredibly annoying, but maybe some rubber feet will help even it out. Not sure if I have other options here.
Do you still have the pouch of o-rings the NT came with originally? If you loop those onto the screw for the feet, it'll give you a little bit of room to play with at the end to try to balance it out. Also acts as a spacer to prevent the risers from scratching the case.
Anyone sound test for the one's that have received their case specially if you have the new masterkeys pro S.
I want to know if the hallow sound goes away. I have a pok3r backlit on a text aluminum case with mx browns and I like the sound of that no hallow pingy sound, just purse semi thock clack... I wonder if this case can provide that for the rapid-i and masterkeys
Anyone sound test for the one's that have received their case specially if you have the new masterkeys pro S.
I want to know if the hallow sound goes away. I have a pok3r backlit on a text aluminum case with mx browns and I like the sound of that no hallow pingy sound, just purse semi thock clack... I wonder if this case can provide that for the rapid-i and masterkeys
That is easy to fix. I have three aluminum cases (one of them being this one) and use drawer or toolbox liner (it is like thin foam, can be found on Amazon) on the inner lining of the case and it does wonders to eliminating the high pitched ping. If you are still getting pings after that, it is something with the plate or stabilizers (like Costar) or the upstroke of the switch and has nothing to do with the aluminum case.
I have Norbauer's case (my favorite out of all the aluminum cases I own) with a silenced NT and it sounds great.
Received mine from originative today. The oco gray doesnt really seem too much darker than the warm gray (at least from pictures), but its definitely a cooler shade of gray.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
It looks great, but unfortunately mine had a couple of issues:
The bottom piece is uneven. When its lying flat, there's wobble when I touch a corner. This does not go away after attaching feet. Incredibly annoying, but maybe some rubber feet will help even it out. Not sure if I have other options here.
The holes for the screws for usb mount is too big. The original screws are way too small, and so I tried to use one of the black screws that held the pcb to the original plastic frame. That one fits a bit better, but still loose so it won't tighten all the way. Maybe i'll try to get some other screws for this, but not sure which size to get.
Besides that, my pcb holds tight too, and doesn't move within the case
Anyone sound test for the one's that have received their case specially if you have the new masterkeys pro S.
I want to know if the hallow sound goes away. I have a pok3r backlit on a text aluminum case with mx browns and I like the sound of that no hallow pingy sound, just purse semi thock clack... I wonder if this case can provide that for the rapid-i and masterkeys
That is easy to fix. I have three aluminum cases (one of them being this one) and use drawer or toolbox liner (it is like thin foam, can be found on Amazon) on the inner lining of the case and it does wonders to eliminating the high pitched ping. If you are still getting pings after that, it is something with the plate or stabilizers (like Costar) or the upstroke of the switch and has nothing to do with the aluminum case.
I have Norbauer's case (my favorite out of all the aluminum cases I own) with a silenced NT and it sounds great.
I can confirm lining works. I used some sticky back thin foam on a $15 ebay plastic case and it make it sound as solid as my pok3r :)
I also have the same issue with my originative order.
Another question, is the screws to take apart the bottom and top of the case a hex bolt? Do I need a hex key to open the case?
I also have the same issue with my originative order.
Another question, is the screws to take apart the bottom and top of the case a hex bolt? Do I need a hex key to open the case?
Sorry I meant they should fix it.
I'm just glad that the different sized screw hole was on purpose and thus easily addressed.
Ordered a sheet of SJ5306 off amazon and should be arriving tomorrow :)
when do regular orders start going out. I only ask cause I'm moving at the end of the month.
when do regular orders start going out. I only ask cause I'm moving at the end of the month.
I got my shipping number yesterday, and the package was picked up by DHL today. Order #1002.
so.. what's going to happen with this whole oco thing, I sent them a message, but they haven't responded to me. I don't want to go and buy my own screws... especially for the amount I spent.
Hey guys, thanks for taking part of our buy.
I'm still at home recovering, but Wendy has received all of the screws from Ryan. She'll send out the missing screws on Monday. Please hold tight as we weren't warned that the cases came with extra screws. Norbauer had sent a package directly to us from Shenzhen, and we thought we had received all the components.
Hey guys, thanks for taking part of our buy.
I'm still at home recovering, but Wendy has received all of the screws from Ryan. She'll send out the missing screws on Monday. Please hold tight as we weren't warned that the cases came with extra screws. Norbauer had sent a package directly to us from Shenzhen, and we thought we had received all the components.
Here's to a fast recovery!
@norbauer, Could I get the bom of hardware for the case please? Thanks!
Barring any potential shipping issues (fingers crossed that no packages are lost or arrive damaged), I'd say the group buy went quite well.
While everyone is anxiously awaiting their case(s), here's a little more eye candy.
Carbon SA on a white KUL ES-87Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lLTeuDq.jpg)
GMK Carbon on a Novatouch with a space white case from this GBShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZFigZSj.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/go4Vbly.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yo837aa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ScpTBTT.jpg)
Barring any potential shipping issues (fingers crossed that no packages are lost or arrive damaged), I'd say the group buy went quite well.
While everyone is anxiously awaiting their case(s), here's a little more eye candy.
Carbon SA on a white KUL ES-87Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lLTeuDq.jpg)
GMK Carbon on a Novatouch with a space white case from this GBShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZFigZSj.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/go4Vbly.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yo837aa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ScpTBTT.jpg)
Beautiful! Carbon looks better on the NT in these pictures than TA did the other day.
FWIW, I have discussed with Sheraton that in future I would prefer to have the cases come to me for quality check rather than go out to people directly via them so that I can ensure that cases bearing my name, as it were, measure up to a standard I'm willing to represent as being complete and in good condition.
However there were some small things which I assume are defects. (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Yeah I totally understand the tradeoff and don't really mind as you said before there were nothing wrong with the outside of the case. I was really more asking to see if there was a problem with the anodizing and whether I should coat it or something to prevent corroding or any other future problems.However there were some small things which I assume are defects. (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I actually decided, after discussions with the factory, that in order keep costs down that it would be OK for them only to worry about cosmetic flaws on the exterior of the case, given the way in which the case would be used, so I don't consider such marks defects according to spec, per se. Most people don't realize (and I only recently learned as I've been doing industrial design projects over the past few years) how much of manufacturing processes are still driven by chance and happenstance and that most forms of quality control are just managing probabilities and the number of items you throw away. If we wanted cases to be perfect on both the outside and the interior of the case, it would simply have meant asking the factory to throw more cases away, which of course they can only afford to do by charging us more. It didn't seem that in this situation that it would be worth worry about what hidden parts of the case looked like, so I erred on that side of the trade-off. I would love to do a more high-end keyboard project at some point in future where I can insist on absolutely flawless parts, inside and out, (which is to say, accepting a higher part reject rate), but for this project based on the initial IC thread, it seemed like folks wanted to drive things in the direction of cost control, so I tended to try to push things in that direction where I could. For whatever that's all worth. (Sorry if too much information. hehe.) :)
Oh, also, regarding the bumpons, yes, I didn't realize that so many people would be ordering riser feet "just in case" (presumably, for future re-sale), or I would have included both kinds of bumpons. Next time I shall!
Yeah I totally understand the tradeoff and don't really mind as you said before there were nothing wrong with the outside of the case. I was really more asking to see if there was a problem with the anodizing and whether I should coat it or something to prevent corroding or any other future problems.However there were some small things which I assume are defects. (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I actually decided, after discussions with the factory, that in order keep costs down that it would be OK for them only to worry about cosmetic flaws on the exterior of the case, given the way in which the case would be used, so I don't consider such marks defects according to spec, per se. Most people don't realize (and I only recently learned as I've been doing industrial design projects over the past few years) how much of manufacturing processes are still driven by chance and happenstance and that most forms of quality control are just managing probabilities and the number of items you throw away. If we wanted cases to be perfect on both the outside and the interior of the case, it would simply have meant asking the factory to throw more cases away, which of course they can only afford to do by charging us more. It didn't seem that in this situation that it would be worth worry about what hidden parts of the case looked like, so I erred on that side of the trade-off. I would love to do a more high-end keyboard project at some point in future where I can insist on absolutely flawless parts, inside and out, (which is to say, accepting a higher part reject rate), but for this project based on the initial IC thread, it seemed like folks wanted to drive things in the direction of cost control, so I tended to try to push things in that direction where I could. For whatever that's all worth. (Sorry if too much information. hehe.) :)
Oh, also, regarding the bumpons, yes, I didn't realize that so many people would be ordering riser feet "just in case" (presumably, for future re-sale), or I would have included both kinds of bumpons. Next time I shall!
Yeah I totally understand the tradeoff and don't really mind as you said before there were nothing wrong with the outside of the case. I was really more asking to see if there was a problem with the anodizing and whether I should coat it or something to prevent corroding or any other future problems.However there were some small things which I assume are defects. (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I actually decided, after discussions with the factory, that in order keep costs down that it would be OK for them only to worry about cosmetic flaws on the exterior of the case, given the way in which the case would be used, so I don't consider such marks defects according to spec, per se. Most people don't realize (and I only recently learned as I've been doing industrial design projects over the past few years) how much of manufacturing processes are still driven by chance and happenstance and that most forms of quality control are just managing probabilities and the number of items you throw away. If we wanted cases to be perfect on both the outside and the interior of the case, it would simply have meant asking the factory to throw more cases away, which of course they can only afford to do by charging us more. It didn't seem that in this situation that it would be worth worry about what hidden parts of the case looked like, so I erred on that side of the trade-off. I would love to do a more high-end keyboard project at some point in future where I can insist on absolutely flawless parts, inside and out, (which is to say, accepting a higher part reject rate), but for this project based on the initial IC thread, it seemed like folks wanted to drive things in the direction of cost control, so I tended to try to push things in that direction where I could. For whatever that's all worth. (Sorry if too much information. hehe.) :)
Oh, also, regarding the bumpons, yes, I didn't realize that so many people would be ordering riser feet "just in case" (presumably, for future re-sale), or I would have included both kinds of bumpons. Next time I shall!
Oh, no, you should be totally fine. The part is almost certainly actually anodized in that area; it is just not fully penetrated with dye. Aluminum is a bit tricky when it comes to anodizing and colors, as I mentioned above regarding the sometime slight mismatch between top and bottom parts, because you're basically introducing a dye into pores in the metal, trying to get it to penetrate to the right amount in order to create a specific color, and then creating an anodized oxide layer on top. Titanium is very interesting, actually, in that the color isn't made with dye at all (see here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZhVOy-ytJY)). In any case, corrosion as we think of it with ferrous metals (in the form of red rust) isn't an issue with aluminum.
Here's a pic with some temperature adjustment done to better reflect what the OCo grey looks like in person under white light. The weight on this case is amazing.
Special guest: RAMA WAVEShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/as5SCMr.jpg)
Any reccommedations for wrist rest from the people who use them here? My current wrist rest which was perfectly flush with the stock novatouch is now way too short and none of my other wrist rests are tall enough to be flush with the new case.Im using an rollermouse re:d as wristrest+mouse.
I was a bit sad that I couldn't use my Pexon cable with case. The connector is a hair too large to fit in the aluminum housing socket...
Sure! I think the width that is problematic is 12.5mm. I don't have a precision caliper sorry. Those Pexon cable are the real deal, so beautiful! I think it might be the heatshrink used than exceed the size of the hole.I was a bit sad that I couldn't use my Pexon cable with case. The connector is a hair too large to fit in the aluminum housing socket...
I designed the hole to fit any connectors conforming to the USB spec, but perhaps those cables are larger. Can you provide me with dimensions of yours? I'd be happy to try to widen that pocket for r2.
The case color is from Originative, which looks near identical to the warm gray in the GB (is it?)
The case color is from Originative, which looks near identical to the warm gray in the GB (is it?)
The Originative grey is noticeably darker than the warm grey from the GB.
The case color is from Originative, which looks near identical to the warm gray in the GB (is it?)
The Originative grey is noticeably darker than the warm grey from the GB.
There are definitely some visible marks from the CNC and anodizing process, but this case is so awesome that it can easily compensate for that. However, the case feel a little bit hollow, I mean when I tap on the corner of the case, I definitely feel the guts of the board moving inside. Probably because there are only two screws that hold the guts to the bottom housing. Wondering why there aren't four of them. I think I'll try to put in some foam or shelf liner to stuff it upI added a thin strip of paper on each folded in half on the top and bottom to stop the board from moving around. Worked like a charm :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4z99Jlc.jpg)
Wait - does the innerts need to be fixed inside the case?
I just laid it in - is this wrong? (I didnt paid that much attention to that part)
Those of you that have silenced your cases by adding something between the pcb and base, what kind of material is preferable? plastic, fabric, foam? Would one of these from ikea work? http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80012853/ http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10320001/
Those of you that have silenced your cases by adding something between the pcb and base, what kind of material is preferable? plastic, fabric, foam? Would one of these from ikea work? http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80012853/ http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10320001/
As others have observed above, the two flange screws are intended to hold the case in place, and for most CoolerMaster plates this does work. However, I have noticed that those bent plates edges (particularly in the MasterKeys keyboards) aren't made to particularly tight tolerances and as a result, some folks may see a bit of movement in the plate, even after the flange screws are fully installed. The solution, as some have said, is either to put a piece of paper between the flange screw and the plate or to lift the plate up a bit by putting a long strip of shelf liner on the little "shelves" where the plate sits on the edge of the case bottom. I found that I liked the second option better, even it required a bit more work. I'll fix this for round 2 by deepening the pocket in which the flange screw sits to account for the observed variability in plate heights from CM.
In practice, for whatever it's worth, I consider the flange screws optional, since inertia generally keeps the keyboard in place. You have to intentionally introduce side-to-side movement by grabbing one of the keys hard between your fingers and trying to move the plate. Of course, this doesn't happen in normal typing. Indeed, my first prototypes didn't include the flange screw feature and I used one for months that way without any problem.
EDIT: Oh, and incidentally, another feature of the flange screws is that they make it easier to assemble the case for the first time. They prevent the plate from falling down out of the bottom of the case when you have the keyboard flipped upside down and are assembling them to be screwed together.
If there is a chance at realforce, HHKB or Fc660c I will be so hyped :thumb: :thumb:
The custom cable incompatibility is a real bummer. Could we get some more details on this? Is this just a problem with the style of connector Pexon uses? Is there a way to modify the case or cable to make them work?
The custom cable incompatibility is a real bummer. Could we get some more details on this? Is this just a problem with the style of connector Pexon uses? Is there a way to modify the case or cable to make them work?
It's probably just heat-shrink tube on the micro connector end causing the cable to be larger than the USB connector spec. This is the official spec around which I designed the connector pocket.Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7116954/Novatouch%20Round%201/connector-spec.png)
However, I could easily increase the size for a future run. This would come a bit at the cost, however, of visual aesthetics, as the opening would then be visibly larger than most connectors.
The custom cable incompatibility is a real bummer. Could we get some more details on this? Is this just a problem with the style of connector Pexon uses? Is there a way to modify the case or cable to make them work?
Had this over a week now and finally found time to lube and hypersphere the damn thing. This is my first topre board and I LOVE the way it turned out. http://imgur.com/a/Hh3Vf
I believe this was the 'silver anodized' option from originative
Sound test:
I'm already working on the RealForce design, but it might be a few weeks, as I would probably do well to focus on my non-keyboard life and work for just a little while. :rolleyes: But the RealForce 87U has always been my personal favorite keyboard, so I certainly looking forward to tackling that one, and I have some ideas for doing something that is a bit new and interesting. And I was hoping to combine a group buy for a RealForce case with a r2 for the Novatouch to help reduce the logistical effort (and maybe cost) compared to doing two separately.Although my wife would probably kill me if she knew what I already spent on this case, I would definitely be interested in a Topre case.
If anyone missed this round I have a brand new grey one from originative I need to sell. I'll include all the missing stuff as well
nice work!
Tough I don't think that's an Novatouch..
Are the switches hand-wired?
If you would make a Realforce case, would it have a female usb port to allow for a removable cable? The Digilog case did.
If you would make a Realforce case, would it have a female usb port to allow for a removable cable? The Digilog case did.
Interesting. I wonder if it's possible to source a cable like that, or if it has to be made custom. The Korean CNC RealForce case I have doesn't have a detachable cable, and I wish it did.
If you would make a Realforce case, would it have a female usb port to allow for a removable cable? The Digilog case did.
Interesting. I wonder if it's possible to source a cable like that, or if it has to be made custom. The Korean CNC RealForce case I have doesn't have a detachable cable, and I wish it did.
Well James from Pexon is a fan of your work and has been posting in this thread. He might know.
Thanks for all the kind words, everybody! This has turned out to be a really fun project—due in no small part to how supportive, easy to work with, and understanding the folks on GeekHack and Deskthority have been.You definitely deserve the praise an encouragement, mate, for being on top of and very helpful in your communication and bringing to life such a beautiful case.
I'm currently waiting on the "enigma black" powder coated cases to come back from the finisher here locally. I'll get those shipped out and will then turn my attention to new projects, since this one has gone so smoothly, which I have found very encouraging. Again, I want to express my extreme gratitude to everyone for making this such a surprisingly painless process. :)
If anyone missed this round I have a brand new grey one from originative I need to sell. I'll include all the missing stuff as well
Nothing special and I may still swap out to another set of keycaps, but I'm thrilled with the quality of the construction. Just wish I'd had more cash on hand when the GB went live to get additional cases. This is a beaut. Thanks for all the hard work Ryan!
These cases turned out AMAZINGLY well, and whoever got the green one is going to love it because holy **** it looks lovely. I will definitely be getting a green one come R2.
These cases turned out AMAZINGLY well, and whoever got the green one is going to love it because holy **** it looks lovely. I will definitely be getting a green one come R2.
I received my case a little over an hour ago; I already installed it and I'm thrilled!
I also posted some more pics and a step-by-step installation on imgur for anyone that needs it: http://imgur.com/a/jI3H9
These cases turned out AMAZINGLY well, and whoever got the green one is going to love it because holy **** it looks lovely. I will definitely be getting a green one come R2.
I received my case a little over an hour ago; I already installed it and I'm thrilled!
I also posted some more pics and a step-by-step installation on imgur for anyone that needs it: http://imgur.com/a/jI3H9
These cases turned out AMAZINGLY well, and whoever got the green one is going to love it because holy **** it looks lovely. I will definitely be getting a green one come R2.
I received my case a little over an hour ago; I already installed it and I'm thrilled!
I also posted some more pics and a step-by-step installation on imgur for anyone that needs it: http://imgur.com/a/jI3H9
Now we know who got that awesome dark green custom color. :D
These cases turned out AMAZINGLY well, and whoever got the green one is going to love it because holy **** it looks lovely. I will definitely be getting a green one come R2.
I received my case a little over an hour ago; I already installed it and I'm thrilled!
I also posted some more pics and a step-by-step installation on imgur for anyone that needs it: http://imgur.com/a/jI3H9
It's awesome, sir. What are those LED panels above your desk? Me likey.
for me the green looks to be very lightly green.
neverthless fantastic case!
Well shoot. I hate to say it, but my case is a bit upsetting to me. Did I somehow end up with the prototype case or are all of the white cases like this on the edges?
I remember that I kept wanting to see a closeup of the seams. Guess I should have gone for anodized. Really bummed. :(
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
That last photo is the front left corner, so unfortunately i get to see the worst part at all times. I really would have just gone for a warm gray if I would have expected the painted case to look so rough
I didn't mean to blast you or anything. I just wondered if something had gotten mixed up. I completely understand how the process leads to these results though. I will say that I do like the design and the weight of the case a lot. I'll send you a PM. Thank you for replying.
Also, I really liked the card you inserted. I agree that it's nice to have a community that shares a strange interest in keyboards :)
Got mine form Originative Co yesterday - silver and flawless. I'm very happy with it. No problems with fitting the "liberated" Novatouch board. The only concern I have is with the micro usb plug, it's a very tight fit. Thanks mate, you designed an awesome enclosure.
The custom cable incompatibility is a real bummer. Could we get some more details on this? Is this just a problem with the style of connector Pexon uses? Is there a way to modify the case or cable to make them work?
It's probably just heat-shrink tube on the micro connector end causing the cable to be larger than the USB connector spec.
I GOT MINE! :D :D :D
Quick question, is there a guide on how to change the cases anywhere? I see 2 screws in the bottom of the standard CoolerMaster case, but thats it...
I'm guessing:
1) take all caps off
2) take out 2 screws....
then what?
See https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=85676.msg2362990#msg2362990
I GOT MINE! :D :D :D
Quick question, is there a guide on how to change the cases anywhere? I see 2 screws in the bottom of the standard CoolerMaster case, but thats it...
I'm guessing:
1) take all caps off
2) take out 2 screws....
then what?
There are other screws hidden under the case stickers (different numbers depending on which board you have, I think), so make sure you get those too. Then it's just a question of prying apart the two halves of the plastic housing. This can be tricky, as they are firmly locked together, but a screw driver (or two) is the conventional approach. It's a lot easier if you don't care too much about marring the plastic case, but if you're careful this should be possible to do without damaging the plastic case.
I find this to be a useful, non-marring, tool for prying open plastic cases:
https://www.amazon.com/Clover-490-NV-Hera-Marker/dp/B0011451F8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487173313&sr=8-4&keywords=clover+marking
This sort of thing would also probably work:
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Opening-Repair-iPhone-Non-Marring/dp/B00V58SOTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487173394&sr=8-4&keywords=plastic+spudger
I meant to make a video for this but just haven't had time yet. :rolleyes:
I GOT MINE! :D :D :D
Quick question, is there a guide on how to change the cases anywhere? I see 2 screws in the bottom of the standard CoolerMaster case, but thats it...
I'm guessing:
1) take all caps off
2) take out 2 screws....
then what?
There are other screws hidden under the case stickers (different numbers depending on which board you have, I think), so make sure you get those too. Then it's just a question of prying apart the two halves of the plastic housing. This can be tricky, as they are firmly locked together, but a screw driver (or two) is the conventional approach. It's a lot easier if you don't care too much about marring the plastic case, but if you're careful this should be possible to do without damaging the plastic case.
I find this to be a useful, non-marring, tool for prying open plastic cases:
https://www.amazon.com/Clover-490-NV-Hera-Marker/dp/B0011451F8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487173313&sr=8-4&keywords=clover+marking
This sort of thing would also probably work:
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Opening-Repair-iPhone-Non-Marring/dp/B00V58SOTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487173394&sr=8-4&keywords=plastic+spudger
I meant to make a video for this but just haven't had time yet. :rolleyes:
Ah thanks!
I have the WASD keycap puller and it's pretty flat, I think it should work the same as the items you listed above :)
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-Keyboards-Wire-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00AZCGF7KShow Image(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51vTPe83SzL._SL1200_.jpg)
See https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=85676.msg2362990#msg2362990
Oh, thanks for pointing that out. Somehow I only saw the photo in the thread and didn't notice the imgur link. That is an awesome set of pics! I also concur with (and now understand) the statement about the awesome LED wall lights that geekzombie has on his wall. :))
Woot all installed :D
Had to open it up again and put in 2 layers of that padded lining
http://imgur.com/gallery/0OriRShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/yFIT4js.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gTnZdwh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x7FW6n2.jpg)
Woot all installed :D
Had to open it up again and put in 2 layers of that padded lining
http://imgur.com/gallery/0OriRShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/yFIT4js.jpg)
Nice board! These grey/blue caps are a good match to the case.
Woot all installed :D
Had to open it up again and put in 2 layers of that padded lining
http://imgur.com/gallery/0OriRShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/yFIT4js.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gTnZdwh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x7FW6n2.jpg)
Woot all installed :D
Had to open it up again and put in 2 layers of that padded lining
http://imgur.com/gallery/0OriRShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/yFIT4js.jpg)
Where did you get that cable? The place I normally order custom cables from makes them with connectors that are too large for this case. How happy are you with the quality? The coil seems imperfect.
Got it and its killer! Custom color worked out fantastically and the brushed finish is exactly what I was hoping for. Thanks a bunch Norbauer!.
Now to decide if I like the DZ or the Nantucket on it better.... either way, very pleased! :thumb:
Lovin' all these amazing pics! Keepem coming. Already mentioned this to Ryan in a PM, but it needs to be said again that he did an amazing job with the design and this GB.
On another note - and I may be in the minority on this - but I prefer the current form fitting usb connector design and not in favor of enlarging it. Not only does it look quite elegant, but it keeps the already fragile micro usb connector from wiggling around too much. Ryan said he followed the spec and used industry defined standard sizes. Wouldn't it then be common sense to have Pexon cables also follow the spec instead of Ryan having to enlarge the hole just to fit a non standardized Pexon connection?
Lovin' all these amazing pics! Keepem coming. Already mentioned this to Ryan in a PM, but it needs to be said again that he did an amazing job with the design and this GB.
On another note - and I may be in the minority on this - but I prefer the current form fitting usb connector design and not in favor of enlarging it. Not only does it look quite elegant, but it keeps the already fragile micro usb connector from wiggling around too much. Ryan said he followed the spec and used industry defined standard sizes. Wouldn't it then be common sense to have Pexon cables also follow the spec instead of Ryan having to enlarge the hole just to fit a non standardized Pexon connection?
Should add that Pexon is not the cable maker using these connectors, just the most popular one. I get why they chose the larger connector as micro usb cables are fragile (by design!), but that did not stop my micro usb cable from Pexon from breaking after two weeks.
I agree that a larger opening won't look as good and that the cable makers not following standards are the ones to blame. However, I am still in favor of increasing the size by a few millimeters simply because I think the number of R2 customers that are going to be bummed their custom cable does not fit is higher than the number of people that will care that the opening on the back is slightly larger.
How do you prevent static shocks on this thing? Lol, it's annoying and I have a slight phobic of static shocks. From trauma as kid who went to middle school in Michigan, that had carpeted floors and metal lockers. Not to mention indoor heaters that tried to kill you all the time. Hehe...
Quick question and more photos of my cable from mimic-cables (https://www.mimic-cables.com/).That's a good question, but I don't think there is a solution. I have a tex case that shocks me too. For a while I thought the PCB was shorting to it, but then I realized it was just the shoes I was wearing... they pick up a ton of static. So... try different shoes? (and now you're probably going to say you aren't wearing shoes)
How do you prevent static shocks on this thing? Lol, it's annoying and I have a slight phobic of static shocks. From trauma as kid who went to middle school in Michigan, that had carpeted floors and metal lockers. Not to mention indoor heaters that tried to kill you all the time. Hehe...
Wow, the cases are back on Originative, but at 450 instead of 375 :(
Here's a quick sound test of my Novatouch with Ryan's case, Hypersphere's rings and some Krytox lube:
:)
Here's a quick sound test of my Novatouch with Ryan's case, Hypersphere's rings and some Krytox lube:
:)
Thanks for the video Ramnes. I've been thinking of trying some hyperspheres, and this makes them seem very nice. :)
The 2nd case had an extremely minor anodizing imperfection on the side but its only noticeable from very specific angles under certain lighting conditions. Extremely satisfied with the cases but felt I should point these things out.
I just posted this elsewhere so I'm sorry if you see it twice, wanted to share. LOVE this case. Thanks for doing such a great job throughout the drop Norbauer.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HryJ8Ur.jpg)
The recess on the case looks great with a magnetic adapter.
Also, it is addicting.
The recess on the case looks great with a magnetic adapter.
Also, it is addicting.
Nice! Where does one obtain such a thing?
The recess on the case looks great with a magnetic adapter.
Also, it is addicting.
Nice! Where does one obtain such a thing?
Amazon!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCZB2KR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Beautiful photo, clickstops! Thanks for sharing this. :D
Is there going to be a Round 2? =)
I don't really want to spend $450 on a set from Originative when I already have the main board. (And the grey is already sold out).
Is there going to be a Round 2? =)
Is there going to be a Round 2? =)
Yes, absolutely. I'm just working out some final details with the factory, which should take just another few days.
If you're interested in participating in a second round, please fill out this quick, two-question, survey:
https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/H2YF2CX
I was going to combine r2 with a group buy for a RealForce cases, but that will take me a while to design and from what I can tell there isn't necessarily much cost advantage to batching the orders. And since the r2 cases dropped, folks keep bugging me to do a r2, so I figured might as well get that rolling soon. :D
If you haven't already, you can visit the Shopify store I set up for the last group buy, and I have sign-ups there on the homepage (bottom right) where you can join the mailing list, for folks who don't look at GH all the time. http://shop.norbauer.com
Is there going to be a Round 2? =)Yes, absolutely. I'm just working out some final details with the factory, which should take just another few days.
and at a higher price than this GB.
The recess on the case looks great with a magnetic adapter.
Also, it is addicting.
Nice! Where does one obtain such a thing?
Amazon!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCZB2KR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If i could get a case for my 87 RF i would lose my mind. When is this happening?
and at a higher price than this GB.I think Originative is doing the community a valuable service by keeping Novatouch boards readily available to the community in the US, and by making the group buy CoolerMaster cases available in an on-demand way.
Is there going to be a Round 2? =)
Yes, absolutely. I'm just working out some final details with the factory, which should take just another few days.
If you're interested in participating in a second round, please fill out this quick, two-question, survey:
https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/H2YF2CX
I was going to combine r2 with a group buy for a RealForce cases, but that will take me a while to design and from what I can tell there isn't necessarily much cost advantage to batching the orders. And since the r2 cases dropped, folks keep bugging me to do a r2, so I figured might as well get that rolling soon. :D
If you haven't already, you can visit the Shopify store I set up for the last group buy, and I have sign-ups there on the homepage (bottom right) where you can join the mailing list, for folks who don't look at GH all the time. http://shop.norbauer.com
and at a higher price than this GB.I think Originative is doing the community a valuable service by keeping Novatouch boards readily available to the community in the US, and by making the group buy CoolerMaster cases available in an on-demand way.
I agree that it is nice for the community to have. Just that the prices feel excessive at times, and constantly changing(increasing). As someone else mentioned, the price went from $375 to $450 since the last time they listed. Why the increased cost? Are they really helping the community or helping to line their pockets? I see arguments both ways... =)
I think Amazon or another 3rd party fulfillment service could serve the same purpose with a lot less overhead and price fluctuation than Originative. I found some that have flexible pricing that could support group buys, so you don't even have to deal w/ shipping the cases for your group buy.
Anyways, looking forward to seeing what's coming up next. Thanks.
I guess they can't win then... I'll stop *****ing until I find a better solution.and at a higher price than this GB.I think Originative is doing the community a valuable service by keeping Novatouch boards readily available to the community in the US, and by making the group buy CoolerMaster cases available in an on-demand way.
I agree that it is nice for the community to have. Just that the prices feel excessive at times, and constantly changing(increasing). As someone else mentioned, the price went from $375 to $450 since the last time they listed. Why the increased cost? Are they really helping the community or helping to line their pockets? I see arguments both ways... =)
I think Amazon or another 3rd party fulfillment service could serve the same purpose with a lot less overhead and price fluctuation than Originative. I found some that have flexible pricing that could support group buys, so you don't even have to deal w/ shipping the cases for your group buy.
Anyways, looking forward to seeing what's coming up next. Thanks.
probably because someone at reddit complained that Oco old price was apparently too low and therefore unfair to the GB people :eek: :eek:
No option for white in the survey? :p
Yeah, please add white as an option again!!!
I know there were minor issues with the white powder coating but it still looked stunning!
Ryan,
Didn't you have some sort of experimental color that you ordered? Some sort of antique copper or brass or something? I'm racking my brain for new colors to try out in round 2 ;D
I'd like to converge on just one or two color options for r2. It'll improve quality control without our having to raise the price.
Maybe the clear (a.k.a. Silver) option fits that, just have to strip the clear anno.
My plan is actually to do fewer colors this time, if at all possible, as it will allow us to qualify for using a more high-end anodizing vendor. A number of the cases from the anodizing vendor used in r1 came back with residue on them, which I had to spend a lot of time fixing before sending the cases out. This was a major drag and took me about two solid days. It ended up being fine, but it's an experience I would rather not repeat, so I'm hoping we can use a more production-style anodizing vendor this time. To qualify for that, we basically have a per-color MOQ of 50, so I'd like to converge on just one or two color options for r2. It'll improve quality control without our having to raise the price. That being said, powder coat is outside of those quantity buckets, really, so adding white back might not be an issue. I might just get all the powder coating done in the US.
JDragon specified an awesome custom color in dark blue; I believe some photos of it appear earlier in the thread. I like it so much that I've thought about adding it as a standard color next time, or at least something close to it. The dark green shown above was also pretty cool, though I'm not sure how many keysets are out there that it would match. Ninja Turtles maybe? ;)
Do you plan to offer custom colors a la Round 1 even if you move to the high-end anodizing vendor? Green never tends to be popular and I doubt a dark green case will ever meet an MOQ of 50. But I want one so badly.
Maybe the clear (a.k.a. Silver) option fits that, just have to strip the clear anno.
True, but that wasn't a standard color in the last run; it was a custom that Originative ordered, along with one or two individuals.
I could always offer unfinished as an option for people who want to get their own finished. However, in my experience these days it's hard to find good anodizing shops in the USA. I don't know if it's based on actual facts, but people often blame the EPA for shutting a lot of them down.
If i could get a case for my 87 RF i would lose my mind. When is this happening?
I'm afraid the honest answer is "whenever I can get around to it." :) I've already got the spare 87U to experiment with and have been conducting some tests, but it'll probably be another month or two before I finalize a design. I want to see if I can come up with something creative and interesting. The RealForce has always been my first keyboard love.
Ryan - if you can match that cooler gray from the Wacom Express key remote or the charcoal gray, I would be so down for R2!
Saw Ryan's survey regarding the colors. I have the Originative gray, and was expecting a more cooler gray. While Originative's gray is cooler than the "warm gray" GB option, it still does tilt more towards the warmer end of the spectrum. Took some shots comparing the different aluminum grays. There is warm desk light from left, natural window light from right, and white LED light from the computers screen coming from the top.
Iphone 6 Plus SPACE GRAY
IPAD Smart Cover in CHARCOAL GRAY
Wacom Express Key ALUMINUM GRAY
Norbauer CNC Aluminum Case Originative Gray
Keycaps are EnjoyPBT black on dark gray cherry profile thick PBTs.
IMO, I was expecting more of the gray from the Wacom Express key remote for the Origintiave gray.
Ryan - if you can match that cooler gray from the Wacom Express key remote or the charcoal gray, I would be so down for R2!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/paHLgsO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nbiV4FM.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LtXDEoZ.jpg)
EDIT: One last shot with just natural window sunlight from the right using the white USB cable as white balance:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Poroeun.jpg)
Stop eye balling and use a gray card in conjunction with a photo editing software man.
How is the Wacom for daily usage?
Stop eye balling and use a gray card in conjunction with a photo editing software man.
They are not eyeballed. These were shot in 14-bit RAW and edited in Lightroom. I cropped out the white tear sheet for balancing on the first three. My screen is a Wacom 27qhd and color calibrated using an Xrite PRO.
I make a living as an artist and photographer and pretty much live in Photoshop, Maya, and Lightroom - so color calibration is the important.
WOW! Ryan, I got my replacement case today! The silver is AMAZING. I was on about a 6/10 for the white but the silver is an 11. I want more! Bring on round 2.
I'm SO happy that you helped me get this sorted out. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Ryan - if you can match that cooler gray from the Wacom Express key remote or the charcoal gray, I would be so down for R2!
Interesting. Thanks for the suggestion, nurbs. In order to quality for higher per-color MOQ with the different anodizing vendor, I'm thinking of combining the black and gray options into a single "very dark gray," or charcoal or whatever we decide to call it. It would be pretty similar to the pics you posted, I think.
Stop eye balling and use a gray card in conjunction with a photo editing software man.
They are not eyeballed. These were shot in 14-bit RAW and edited in Lightroom. I cropped out the white tear sheet for balancing on the first three. My screen is a Wacom 27qhd and color calibrated using an Xrite PRO.
I make a living as an artist and photographer and pretty much live in Photoshop, Maya, and Lightroom - so color calibration is the important.
EDIT: Also, most digital artists now use white along with a color checker. Not trying to start something or argue with you, but only responding because I deal with this color thing on a daily basis.
I finally got time to assemble my wife's board.
https://imgur.com/gallery/JBoke (https://imgur.com/gallery/JBoke)
Thanks so much norbauer. The case looks stunning and really breathes new life into the skeletor set. I got a big thumbs up from the wife!
The colors I'd be most interested in are: white, black, tan.
Don't suppose your manufacturer has the micro-arc oxidation process like the E8-V1 is offering?
(Attachment Link)
Don't suppose your manufacturer has the micro-arc oxidation process like the E8-V1 is offering?
(Attachment Link)
Interesting. I'm always interested in fun new finishing processes to explore, and we can always use a different third-party vendor for finishing. Where can I find more info about the E8-V1?
One thing I've been thinking about maybe exploring is a plating process. Something like a very shiny chrome or nickel finish might be cool.
My precious.
(Attachment Link)
My precious.
(Attachment Link)
Looking nice. Nice to see a masterkeys for once (guessing it is based on the backplate), everyone with the case seems to be a novatouch owner.
A new week is upon us and my lust for a shiny brick of aluminum is growing by the day.
How are the anodizing choices going in regards to the IC - Any teaser on what colors may be offered for R2?
If nobody is into the shiny chrome idea, I'm happy to drop my investigations. It isn't really my cup of tea either, but I wanted to try to give people some interesting options. Makes my life easier just to do anodizing, however, so you'll get no complaint from me. :) If anybody would want a shiny chrome case, please speak up.
Maybe I should start a new IC thread separate from this group buy thread?
Regarding the 87u case, I definitely want to do it. I have already started to sketch out some ideas, but keyboards are just a hobby for me and not a full-time job, so I just squeeze time in here and there when I can, and it's hard for me to predict when I'll get unexpected surges of free time. I hope to have something to show in the coming weeks, however. I should probably start an IC for that one too.
I should probably start an IC for that one too.
Going to post this here in case anyone had similar intentions as I did.
Just so you know, Masterkeys Pro S and Rapid-i boards have upside down switches for led illumination and I found out today that they are NOT compatible with Cherry profile keycaps. It still seems crazy to me, but I've confirmed and found other threads here and there that also confirm. So, all of those cool GMK sets I own like Skeletor, Hydro, Dolch, Hyperfuse, Monkey; and the ones I have coming later like Terminal, Coniferous, and [hopefully] Nautilus... will have issues with R3 keys hitting the switch housing and not properly bottoming out. So think twice before you grab one of those keyboards. The case is awesome. Just really pissed that I discovered the issue with the MX boards. I have no idea about the Novatouch compatibility since I sold mine a while back. Currently evaluating what SA or DSA caps I have that can replace my Dolch set in this beautiful case. Grrr. angry.
If you have a Masterkeys S or Rapid-i in this case AND you have cherry profile caps on it, do me a solid and try out the caps lock row. See if they sound/feel a bit muted when they bottom out. And don't hate me for pointing it out :'(
GMK stabilized keys will clack on the slider housing (shift, enter, backspace), but they still work.
GMK stabilized keys will clack on the slider housing (shift, enter, backspace), but they still work.
Really? How disappointing. That completely undermines the signature thock sound of Topre switches.
I am now rethinking my consideration to put GMK Nautilus on my NovaTouch.
Anybody found/tried different riser feet? Angle is too tall for me with the included feet. Most others that I've looked into screw in from the inside of the case. Anyone found some what work for this case?
Hey norbauer,
Are you judging interest for an FC660C Alu case in R2? :p
Hasu is currently working on a custom controller and the FC660C is plate mount so the install is similar to a Realforce or Novatouch.
Hey norbauer,
Are you judging interest for an FC660C Alu case in R2? :p
Hasu is currently working on a custom controller and the FC660C is plate mount so the install is similar to a Realforce or Novatouch.
i feel like i've seen some alu cases for those already on massdrop...
Here is a video I made about producing round 1. :Dmaybe add an link?
maybe add an link?
maybe add an link?
Hey Phenix. Not sure which link you mean, but:
Here is the Reddit thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/641zhz/a_video_essay_i_made_about_running_a_geekhack/)
And the video itself on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjXufiHaAmI)
And Round 2 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=88759)
Just happy that i manage yesterday evening to Order one of those crazzy Case in Tactical Gray so happy :cool:cant wait for it ;D :thumb:From originative?
I'm almost set with my "twins" pic (I have a clear anodized and a warm gray). Just waiting for a new keycap set to come in.
Question:
Will R2 have better results on the powder coating (tricky masking issues) since it's done by a different shop?
Here's my Norbatouch, dome-swapped with BKE-2010 domes. GMK Stormtrooper with some purple flair!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FfuvdR0.jpg)
Here's my Norbatouch, dome-swapped with BKE-2010 domes. GMK Stormtrooper with some purple flair!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FfuvdR0.jpg)
Beautiful! Thanks for sharing!
Do you know what the gram-weight is on the BKE domes? I did a dome-swap on my RealForce to 30g domes and love it.
Here's mine :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qIYIjJn.jpg)
Here's mine :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qIYIjJn.jpg)
that's pretty much what i'm typing on right now, except it's in a vortex case instead (shh don't tell ryan!)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rvz72t2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9fiwK2c.jpg)
It only looks like that from certain angles, otherwise it's a very deep blue.
Easiest Keyboard "mod" I've ever done too... just popped off the Novatouch case (without removing keycaps), took out the plate, stuck the USB port on the new case, dropped the plate in, reassemble. Usually you have to pull keycaps or something to access the screws needed, but this was super easy. The box w/ foam made a nice workstation to keep the aluminum parts from sliding around on the table.