Drop-Alt PCB Issue

[bznerv]

I recently purchased Drop-alt 65%, one issue that I have found is "L" is not workable. So I started tracing the problem by checking its PCB. As expected, I found that the diode for "L"(I'm not so sure if it is) has disconnnected from the PCB as following image:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQV6jwAwho7NZwulOb2kaxaRo5uD_M9w/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15KmHZ41k6qZq-vwnctZN4xiT1UI4hHOh/view?usp=sharing

I have no idea how to fix it and even I try to push the diode connecting together with PCB and reconnecting switch into its, it does not work anyway.

I appreciate your time and help, thank you.

[Findecanor]

Had it ever been soldered on in the first place? If so, someone with soldering iron, who knows how to use one should be able to fix it.
But even if this one can get (re)attached, I would expect that this circuit board could have other sockets that could come loose.
Edit:  I think Suicidal_orange is right (see below)

[suicidal_orange]

The squares where the socket should be soldered don't look very shiny and neither do the corresponding bits on the socket which suggests it was soldered on but the pads have been ripped off when inserting a switch.  This is not uncommon and you have to be really careful and check the switch pins are straight to avoid it, as well as supporting the back when inserting switches.

Assuming it didn't fall off when you took it out of the box this is damage so probably not covered under warranty (you could ask...) if not you will need to reattach the socket (glue?) then reconnect it - the right pad goes to the bottom of the diode (the tiny chip just above it) and the left to the left pad of one of the switch sockets above or below, probably O.  It's a simple job for anyone who owns a soldering iron and any wire will do, you wont have any thinner than the traces on this board.

[Darthbaggins]

By the way it looks, I would say it was done when you installed the switch in the socket.  The HWS are fragile and tend to break as mentioned from SO.  I would try and talk to Drop and maybe they might help you out, but in the end this was due to user error/improper care of installation.

[bznerv]

Thank you everyone, I will try to solder them again today. This is the first time building custom mechanical keyboard, so I don't know when pushing the switch would affect to the diode and it's cracked.

Appreciated! will let you know the result after finish.

[bznerv]

it seems soldering does not work, it's unable to attach the socket into this copper(brown socket) again

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BM7cBmAFdKpGTYVgTsdK7Vtj9zcLPITQ/view?usp=sharing

[suicidal_orange]

Put the socket where it should be, then insert a switch to hold it in the right place.  Glue the socket to the PCB keeping the glue well away from the switch (hot glue on the top and bottom would probably be good) then solder a little wire where the green line is between the right pad and the bottom of the diode.  Solder the socket end first so you don't pull off the diode as it's so small and the PCB has shown itself to be weak.  Then plug in the board and touch a wire between the blue dots and the green fix - one of them will type an L.  Then unplug it and solder a wire from that blue dot to the other pad (red dot) and it will work good as new.



You will have to be extra careful when swapping this switch though - taking the PCB out and putting it on a table when changing switches should stop it happening again.

Good luck

[arodrigues17]

No idea if bznerv ever figured it out, but you just saved my butt- thanks mate! I couldn't solder a wire to the diode pad because it was too small for my clutzy fingers but essentially just made a bridge of solder instead (cringeworthy but works).