The Living Soldering Thread

[phoenix1234]

Yeah, i did thought that too - i imagined that solder wick would, well, -wick- away the solder. As it is, it kind of just sits on the joint, not really doing anything except making me worry that i might damage the pcb.
This looks like the solder wick i have:

Show Image

I think that one has 2.2mm (AB) wide. It is supposed for medium sized pads, something like Cherry MX switch legs. It could be used for desoldering smd led but if you choose the smaller like 0.8mm (0) or 1.5mm (AA), it would be even better and faster, even without adding more flux.
http://www.spirig.org/fileadmin/media/pdf/TP2LS00_desolderwick.pdf

[dohbot]

Hey friends, I would love to desolder my Cherry MX Reds and solder in my new zealios into my FC660M, but I have no idea how to solder, what I need to buy and if I would **** it up, any advice would be nice, also unless I need to solder in my HHKB's alternate controller that I have in the mail (soon), this will likely be my only project for a long time, so I wouldn't want to spend too much on everything, I checked the first post but almost all of the links seem to be broken, except for a 300$ desoldering pump which is out of my price range. Any help would be really appreciated, links to youtube videos and amazon would be great for the materials I need assuming I have nothing, like an antistatic work mat and a way to catch the smoke from the solder. I don't think I want to spend more than 100$ on this total, or maybe I should get someone else to do it, see if it is cheaper, also I'll ask a couple people if they have soldering irons I can use, I think one of my friends does but I am not sure if it is good and it also wouldn't have a desoldering pump, right? Thanks!

[profet]

Hey friends, I would love to desolder my Cherry MX Reds and solder in my new zealios into my FC660M, but I have no idea how to solder, what I need to buy and if I would **** it up, any advice would be nice, also unless I need to solder in my HHKB's alternate controller that I have in the mail (soon), this will likely be my only project for a long time, so I wouldn't want to spend too much on everything, I checked the first post but almost all of the links seem to be broken, except for a 300$ desoldering pump which is out of my price range. Any help would be really appreciated, links to youtube videos and amazon would be great for the materials I need assuming I have nothing, like an antistatic work mat and a way to catch the smoke from the solder. I don't think I want to spend more than 100$ on this total, or maybe I should get someone else to do it, see if it is cheaper, also I'll ask a couple people if they have soldering irons I can use, I think one of my friends does but I am not sure if it is good and it also wouldn't have a desoldering pump, right? Thanks!

I may get some crap for saying the following:

If you're not going to do a ton of soldering, I recommend one of the Hakko clone soldering stations and some extra tips.

Something like this:  http://www.cmlsupply.com/aoyue-model-936-esd-safe-soldering-system/

[dohbot]

Hey friends, I would love to desolder my Cherry MX Reds and solder in my new zealios into my FC660M, but I have no idea how to solder, what I need to buy and if I would **** it up, any advice would be nice, also unless I need to solder in my HHKB's alternate controller that I have in the mail (soon), this will likely be my only project for a long time, so I wouldn't want to spend too much on everything, I checked the first post but almost all of the links seem to be broken, except for a 300$ desoldering pump which is out of my price range. Any help would be really appreciated, links to youtube videos and amazon would be great for the materials I need assuming I have nothing, like an antistatic work mat and a way to catch the smoke from the solder. I don't think I want to spend more than 100$ on this total, or maybe I should get someone else to do it, see if it is cheaper, also I'll ask a couple people if they have soldering irons I can use, I think one of my friends does but I am not sure if it is good and it also wouldn't have a desoldering pump, right? Thanks!

I may get some crap for saying the following:

If you're not going to do a ton of soldering, I recommend one of the Hakko clone soldering stations and some extra tips.

Something like this:  http://www.cmlsupply.com/aoyue-model-936-esd-safe-soldering-system/

I kinda like that, nice price and it looks nice, I would love to see what everyone else says because you said your gonna get a ton of crap for it, and I would like to know why, I do like it though.

[Blaise170]

A lot of people have a sense of elitism about things, whether it comes to Cherry clones, Hakko clones, or whatever else. Aoyues are good they just aren't the top-tier like Weller or Hakko stations are.

[SpAmRaY]

A lot of people have a sense of elitism about things, whether it comes to Cherry clones, Hakko clones, or whatever else. Aoyues are good they just aren't the top-tier like Weller or Hakko stations are.

People tend to avoid the clones when it comes to soldering gear as it can be dangerous and make it easier to ruin a PCB or when the soldering gear breaks quickly it discourages people from even trying.

[zombimuncha]

Solder-noob here needing a little help! (Blame Zeal ;-) )

No matter what I do there's always a tiny bit of solder left holding the pins in. I've added more solder then sucked **90%** of it back off that right-arrow switch more times than I can count. The braid doesn't seem to do anything useful. I can see little spots of solder on it that its sucked up but there's always more left on the pin/pad. Can anybody see anything obvious that I'm doing wrong?

Also - I should be able to pull a single switch out of the plate after desoldering it, right? I mean, I don't have to desolder all of them before I start pulling them?

Thx

[tofgerl]

You're not doing anything wrong, desoldering is just a lot harder than soldering. Try adding some solder and then re-de-soldering........

Also, you should be able to pull out one at a time, yes.

[heedpantsnow]

Hey friends, I would love to desolder my Cherry MX Reds and solder in my new zealios into my FC660M, but I have no idea how to solder, what I need to buy and if I would **** it up, any advice would be nice, also unless I need to solder in my HHKB's alternate controller that I have in the mail (soon), this will likely be my only project for a long time, so I wouldn't want to spend too much on everything, I checked the first post but almost all of the links seem to be broken, except for a 300$ desoldering pump which is out of my price range. Any help would be really appreciated, links to youtube videos and amazon would be great for the materials I need assuming I have nothing, like an antistatic work mat and a way to catch the smoke from the solder. I don't think I want to spend more than 100$ on this total, or maybe I should get someone else to do it, see if it is cheaper, also I'll ask a couple people if they have soldering irons I can use, I think one of my friends does but I am not sure if it is good and it also wouldn't have a desoldering pump, right? Thanks!

I may get some crap for saying the following:

If you're not going to do a ton of soldering, I recommend one of the Hakko clone soldering stations and some extra tips.

Something like this:  http://www.cmlsupply.com/aoyue-model-936-esd-safe-soldering-system/

I haven't ever tried Hakko clones.  But I used a cheap iron for many years because I didn't do a ton of soldering.  Then I got a Hakko, and wish I had gotten it in the beginning.  Even though I didn't do much soldering, it would have made those times a ton easier.  Again, maybe the clones are "good enough", I don't know.

[dohbot]

Hey friends, I would love to desolder my Cherry MX Reds and solder in my new zealios into my FC660M, but I have no idea how to solder, what I need to buy and if I would **** it up, any advice would be nice, also unless I need to solder in my HHKB's alternate controller that I have in the mail (soon), this will likely be my only project for a long time, so I wouldn't want to spend too much on everything, I checked the first post but almost all of the links seem to be broken, except for a 300$ desoldering pump which is out of my price range. Any help would be really appreciated, links to youtube videos and amazon would be great for the materials I need assuming I have nothing, like an antistatic work mat and a way to catch the smoke from the solder. I don't think I want to spend more than 100$ on this total, or maybe I should get someone else to do it, see if it is cheaper, also I'll ask a couple people if they have soldering irons I can use, I think one of my friends does but I am not sure if it is good and it also wouldn't have a desoldering pump, right? Thanks!

I may get some crap for saying the following:

If you're not going to do a ton of soldering, I recommend one of the Hakko clone soldering stations and some extra tips.

Something like this:  http://www.cmlsupply.com/aoyue-model-936-esd-safe-soldering-system/

I haven't ever tried Hakko clones.  But I used a cheap iron for many years because I didn't do a ton of soldering.  Then I got a Hakko, and wish I had gotten it in the beginning.  Even though I didn't do much soldering, it would have made those times a ton easier.  Again, maybe the clones are "good enough", I don't know.

Thanks for the help I'm trying to see which would be cheaper sending away a board 70 switches and two LEDs or buying the supplies and doing it myself, also I don't want to ruin my board so I'd be factoring that in too.

[asgeirtj]

Warning solder noobism incoming:  So I've soldered about 10-15 boards with an entry level iron.  It's not a good iron, but I've been too cheap to upgrade.  However last time I soldered I had trouble desoldering one switch since it was in a tight place and my desoldering gun couldn't properly reached it and so I soldered and desoldered quite a few times.  The iron I use runs really hot and in the process I managed to desolder loose the trace.  The trace is still there just loose in the air, and the switch doesn't work when I tried to ****mix solder it.   There are also burn marks all over the pcb's when I'm done soldering.  I reckon I'm using an iron which is too hot.  Thing is it's not possible to configure the heat.  I'm not really adamant on doing things like tinning the tip and rubbing it in a wet swamp between solder (don't really see the reason to do those two actually) but I do it sometimes.  So I  guess my question is, is it really recommended/required to use a solder iron with configurable temps?  This iron runs too hot I reckon, what would be the recommended heat for  soldering though? 

[Blaise170]

You should tin your iron and clean it often on a damp sponge to keep the tip clean. It makes the solder flow way easier. To fix the broken switch, you can run a jumper wire to other switches' pins on the same trace. As for burning, you can use any heat, the key is not leaving the iron on the pad too long. If it is burning before the solder melts, you probably need to take better care of the tip. You don't have to use an adjustable temp iron but it makes jobs easier. I use a Hakko 888D and use 750°F for 60/40 and 850°F for lead-free (ROHS) solder.

[engicoder]

You're not doing anything wrong, desoldering is just a lot harder than soldering. Try adding some solder and then re-de-soldering........

Yes! If you touch a hot, tinned soldering iron tip to a solder joint and it doesn't liquefy quickly, add a little new solder while you are touching the joint. This will help the older solder to melt. Seems counter intuitive, but it works. Also, sometimes adding a little more solder makes it easier for a solder sucker to suck up the solder up completely.

Edit: when desoldering, adding 60/40 lead solder will help to desolder lead free joints.

[ideus]

You're not doing anything wrong, desoldering is just a lot harder than soldering. Try adding some solder and then re-de-soldering........

Yes! If you touch hot, tinned soldering iron tip to a solder joint and it doesn't liquefy  quickly, add a little new solder while you are touching the joint. This will help the older solder to melt. Seems counter intuitive, but it works.

Nice tip, regarding the desoldering process, I wonder if one of those mixed pumps with irons could be of any help.

[zombimuncha]

You're not doing anything wrong, desoldering is just a lot harder than soldering. Try adding some solder and then re-de-soldering........

Yeah, I've been doing that, over and over, but I can never get the last little bit of solder out of the hole. Wondering if maybe my solder-sucker is a POS, or maybe I'm just too slow with it...

[tofgerl]

Why would you be slow? Just hold the sucker over the iron. Press sucker, then remove iron.

[zombimuncha]

I guess I'm afraid of melting the plastic-looking tip of the solder sucker. Also, when having it in position at an angle while the iron is doing its thing, after removing the iron it takes me 500-3000ms to get the solder sucker to vertical without it slipping around and out of position.

[zombimuncha]

Why would you be slow? Just hold the sucker over the iron. Press sucker, then remove iron.

Wait, are you saying I should push the button on the soldersucker BEFORE getting the iron out of the way?

[trees]

Why would you be slow? Just hold the sucker over the iron. Press sucker, then remove iron.

Wait, are you saying I should push the button on the soldersucker BEFORE getting the iron out of the way?

Yes, you dont even have to be right on top of the solder.

[tofgerl]

Indeed. And the sucker tip will probably be fine. It should be able to handle 3-400C without problems. Although I recommend staying at the lower edge when soldering. Desoldering ironically sometimes requires higher temperatures, which sucks.

I frakking hate desoldering...

[SpAmRaY]

Can anyone recommend a good wearable loupe to help with smd soldering?

[swimmingbird]

Why would you be slow? Just hold the sucker over the iron. Press sucker, then remove iron.

Wait, are you saying I should push the button on the soldersucker BEFORE getting the iron out of the way?

Yes, you dont even have to be right on top of the solder.

I've taken two cracks at desoldering this KC60 I've got off massdrop and it doesn't seem like I can desolder for ****

Everytime I try using the sucker theres always a bit left which is impossible to melt afterward due to the limited contact. plz halp

[tofgerl]

Can anyone recommend a good wearable loupe to help with smd soldering?

Not really wearable, but this is what I use: http://smile.amazon.com/Brightech-LightView-SuperBright-Magnifier-Adjustable/dp/B00UW2IRJ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1447235839&sr=8-4

[engicoder]

Can anyone recommend a good wearable loupe to help with smd soldering?

These work well for me.

http://amzn.com/B000BPWPRK

[myotherteeshirt]

Hi all,

I need some advice on desoldering 4 pin RGD LEDs. I created a new thread but i suppose this is the proper place to ask.

Whats happening now is i'm able to get the blob of solder on the pad out, but the solder that is in the hole stays and refuses to budge.

(Attachment Link)

I have some solder wick, a solder pump (pictured) and a seeed mini soldering iron with a bevel tip. The solder wick has been absolutely useless so far, but i'll try using some flux with it - saw that suggestion somewhere in this thread.

As for the solder pump, i'm pretty sure its from the 90s. Works well, but has huge recoil(?) when you activate the mechanism - also, it randomly coughs out flakes of dried solder. It looks to me like the pump is too big for the job. I'm considering getting one of those solder suckers with a silicone tip.

Any advice on how to get the job done with the tools at hand would be nice!

EDIT:

I used a 25W iron from a scandinavian big-box chain for carparts and stuff. Cheap and functional.
Then I bought a SEEED iron from Massdrop. Holy **** was there a difference! Night and day...

Not to mention the Seed is the size of a screwdriver while the 25W was the size of a huge wrench! Very highly recommended! Reaches 300C in seconds and is adjustable from 100 to 400 in 10s.

I second this. The SEEED iron is really impressive. Literally under 5 seconds to reach 300C. Size wise, slightly longer but comparable to a Pilot G2 pen.

Solder-noob here needing a little help! (Blame Zeal ;-) )

No matter what I do there's always a tiny bit of solder left holding the pins in. I've added more solder then sucked **90%** of it back off that right-arrow switch more times than I can count. The braid doesn't seem to do anything useful. I can see little spots of solder on it that its sucked up but there's always more left on the pin/pad. Can anybody see anything obvious that I'm doing wrong?

Also - I should be able to pull a single switch out of the plate after desoldering it, right? I mean, I don't have to desolder all of them before I start pulling them?

Thx

Hey guys, so i solved my problem - here's how i did it: hope this helps someone.

Received my Zealios on 29th Oct. Could not for the life of me desolder these darn 4 pin LEDs on a razer BW chroma.
(Attachment Link)

Bought flux, Wick, new solder, every damn thing,  didn't work..

Until now!
(Attachment Link)

I had to use this, and align it vertically or there'd be some solder left in the hole.
(Attachment Link)
Can't wait til I have time for the whole board!

EDIT: I also had to run my iron at 340C, instead of my usual 300C.

[zombimuncha]

Gettin mah Zeali-on!



And they all work (so far)!!!!



I AM A SOLDERING GOD!!!!

but that's enough for todays session  ;-)

[zombimuncha]

Gettin mah Zeali-on!

(Attachment Link)

And they all work (so far)!!!!

(Attachment Link)

I AM A SOLDERING GOD!!!!

but that's enough for todays session  ;-)

So when the contacts are desoldered and I'm pushing the switch bottom stalk-thingy out of the pcb, should I be able to do that by hand? I'm finding they're typically a bit stiff so I'm using the plastic handle of a screwdriver to push those babies out of the pcb. I'm worried it might damage the pcb, and I'm thinking maybe I just need to do a better job with the desoldering and they'd pop out more easily?

[ideus]

Gettin mah Zeali-on!

(Attachment Link)

And they all work (so far)!!!!

(Attachment Link)

I AM A SOLDERING GOD!!!!

but that's enough for todays session  ;-)

So when the contacts are desoldered and I'm pushing the switch bottom stalk-thingy out of the pcb, should I be able to do that by hand? I'm finding they're typically a bit stiff so I'm using the plastic handle of a screwdriver to push those babies out of the pcb. I'm worried it might damage the pcb, and I'm thinking maybe I just need to do a better job with the desoldering and they'd pop out more easily?

There is a plastic tool to pull the switches off the PCB. I have seen one at GON's store I think.

[tofgerl]

That looks a little dodgy...

[CommonCurt]

The one GON sales is metal, and can scratch your plate if you're not careful.  I think it's basically just a chip puller.

I use plastic spudgers like this to remove my switches.
   http://ebay.com/itm/3X-Black-Nylon-Spudger-Set-iPod-iPhone-Cellphone-Opening-Pry-Repair-Tools-/161844840007?nav=SEARCH

[swimmingbird]

The one GON sales is metal, and can scratch your plate if you're not careful.  I think it's basically just a chip puller.

I use plastic spudgers like this to remove my switches.
   http://ebay.com/itm/3X-Black-Nylon-Spudger-Set-iPod-iPhone-Cellphone-Opening-Pry-Repair-Tools-/161844840007?nav=SEARCH

Yep the GON one is metal and sends chills down my spine every time I hear it touch the plate

[ideus]

The one GON sales is metal, and can scratch your plate if you're not careful.  I think it's basically just a chip puller.

I use plastic spudgers like this to remove my switches.
   http://ebay.com/itm/3X-Black-Nylon-Spudger-Set-iPod-iPhone-Cellphone-Opening-Pry-Repair-Tools-/161844840007?nav=SEARCH

Yep the GON one is metal and sends chills down my spine every time I hear it touch the plate

The tips of the tool should be filed to eliminate sharp edges and to shortening the tip length. The firm grip it gets over the switch makes the extraction safe.

[myotherteeshirt]

Gettin mah Zeali-on!

(Attachment Link)

And they all work (so far)!!!!

(Attachment Link)

I AM A SOLDERING GOD!!!!

but that's enough for todays session  ;-)

So when the contacts are desoldered and I'm pushing the switch bottom stalk-thingy out of the pcb, should I be able to do that by hand? I'm finding they're typically a bit stiff so I'm using the plastic handle of a screwdriver to push those babies out of the pcb. I'm worried it might damage the pcb, and I'm thinking maybe I just need to do a better job with the desoldering and they'd pop out more easily?

I use a wooden chopstick. The thick end is bigger than the hole in the pcb, so I use that to pop the switch off the plate, and the thin end for further prodding if needed.

[asgeirtj]

I use a radioshack iron (entry level iron) and it has happened a few times that the trace will get soldered off when I'm soldering, is that because it's running too hot?

[tofgerl]

Yes, but more likely you're doing it very wrong in addition.

[asgeirtj]

Yes, but more likely you're doing it very wrong in addition.

I really don't think I'm doing it wrong I do it just like in whitefiredragon's soldering video.  Don't really know how one would do it wrong either.  I've soldered 10-15 boards.  It's just that if I have my iron on the trace for like 3 seconds it has a possibility of being burned off, so it must be just that I use a too hot of an iron.  The iron doesn't allow any configurations to the heat it's just one setting and that's maximum heat. 

[tofgerl]

Why the hell do you have your iron on the trace for three seconds??

[asgeirtj]

Why the hell do you have your iron on the trace for three seconds??

well most of the time its 1-2 secs but sometimes its 3 maybe, should be fine

[asgeirtj]

For example here he has the soldering iron on the trace for like 10-20 seconds no problem.  He says "heat it up, the pad and the pin" and the pad being the trace. 

[tofgerl]

That's a 73 minute video. You want to be more specific?

[asgeirtj]

That's a 73 minute video. You want to be more specific?

It has a timestamp if you click it it will start at the part I'm talking about

Another question: what diameter solder sucker is recommended for cherry mx soldering?  I have a 3mm inner diameter solder sucker which has been fine (except it often doesn't suck everything up and I need to redo it, don't know if the high diameter is the problem, the solder sucker quality or my technique or a combination of all those) except for that one switch on my octagon where the working area is too small for the solder sucker.  I have the possibility of ,8mm 1mm & 1,5mm at the store I'm going to.  I'm also going to buy a soldering iron which lets me set the temp to 350°C (that's the ideal one right?), I think my iron has been running on about 400-420°C (It's 30w but it doesn't say the temperature on the specifications), that should fix my overheating problems right?  (I also have burn marks all over the pcb)

[tofgerl]

340-370 seems to be the range most people select. I've soldered at 300 just fine, but for desoldering it should be a little hotter.

You're linking to a section where he's using a desoldering iron, not a soldering iron by the way. That changes things. I have no experience with those, so I can't really tell what the problem is if that's what you're using.

[asgeirtj]

340-370 seems to be the range most people select. I've soldered at 300 just fine, but for desoldering it should be a little hotter.

You're linking to a section where he's using a desoldering iron, not a soldering iron by the way. That changes things. I have no experience with those, so I can't really tell what the problem is if that's what you're using.

huh?  you are watching the 53:12 part right?  there he solders the switch into place with a soldering iron and solder, unless I'm misunderstanding something.

[trees]

340-370 seems to be the range most people select. I've soldered at 300 just fine, but for desoldering it should be a little hotter.

You're linking to a section where he's using a desoldering iron, not a soldering iron by the way. That changes things. I have no experience with those, so I can't really tell what the problem is if that's what you're using.

huh?  you are watching the 53:12 part right?  there he solders the switch into place with a soldering iron and solder, unless I'm misunderstanding something.

He is using way too much heat for way too long @ 53:12

[tofgerl]

340-370 seems to be the range most people select. I've soldered at 300 just fine, but for desoldering it should be a little hotter.

You're linking to a section where he's using a desoldering iron, not a soldering iron by the way. That changes things. I have no experience with those, so I can't really tell what the problem is if that's what you're using.

huh?  you are watching the 53:12 part right?  there he solders the switch into place with a soldering iron and solder, unless I'm misunderstanding something.

No, when I click it I get the beginning of the video. I told you.

[jcoffin1981]

Figured I would stick my question here rather then start a new thread....    I need a solder pump or "sucker" that at least for now will probably be used only one time.  I love to buy expensive well made tools, but I just can't seem to justify buying a super high quality piece of equipment.  I need to de-solder a defective Gateron key switch and replace it.

Can someone recommend something that will work well enough.  I purchased one very inexpensively and realzied it's not coming for a month.  I'm looking to spend $5- $15 dollars.  I found a few that quite lovely, but I can't justify spending 40 dollars or something.  All I have to go on are Amazon reviews.

[zombimuncha]

I got a cheap one on amzn. Works great. Um... it's blue.

edit: here it is, altho this is amazon uk:  http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004QNRP1Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

[senso]

Solder pumps are all sort of disposable, they wear down fast with the solder dust/bits inside them.
I recommend cleaning them after use, at my workplace I only have Ersa tools(probably over 200k € in soldering, IR, hot-air, heat beds, irons and a BGA rework station in my room), and well, I have a couple Ersa solder suckers/pumps, they cost about 20€, yes, they are a bit better than the 3€ ones, but not by much.
After 2-3 days of use I must disassemble it, clean all the solder, scrape the solder from the spring, remove the oring, clean it, lube it a bit(I use flux paste, have lots around and does its job), and every other week I need to stretch the spring.
The tip only melts with the iron set to 400ºC and when doing something like that damage to pcb is very likely to happen.

Almost all the solder wicks need flux, even brand names, the flux stays in them for so long that it dries, aplying just a bit of flux to the joint before puting the wick over the joint does wonders, when fighting with big 6-8 layers pcb's full of power planes, lots of flux, wick on top, then add a bit of solder, it increases the thermal conductivity of the iron a LOT.

For starters/newbies/not so rich people(like me), go for a 30Watts iron, the Hakko clones can be good, IF you spend 10€ to buy an original Hakko tip, a chisel tip wit 2-2.5mm wide is perfect for PTH and to solder almost all the SMD's out there, from 1206 to 0603, TQFP's,SOP's,SOIC's, even the QFN's with exposed pads are easy to do, when they have power planes and you did design the pcb, leave a 1.2 to 2mm via under it, then just apply flux, and feed solder, it will solder the power pad fine going that way and you wont even need hot air!

There are lots of tips and little tricks to solder the strangest components, just remenber, flux is your friend, from Mouser(and Digikey I assume), you can buy a 200-250MmL seringe of Flux from Multicore or some other name brand, go for organic no clean flux, they are less acidic so if a bit stays behind some component leg it doesn't kill the pcb, will just be a nice dust trap and it also doesn't eat your iron tip.

[tofgerl]

A good tip can actually be more important than a good iron...

[Blaise170]

What would you all recommend as the best desoldering station under $200? I'd prefer spending closer to $100 if possible.