Leopold keys not working

[jcoffin1981]

I have a Leopold fc660M that I spilled coffee on.  Not an entire mug but probably a few large sips.  I cleaned it with alcohol and a day later replaced the switches that were sticking.  A day or two later a few switches were intermittently working. Then the entire home row except for G and H was not working as well as 1 or 2 other switches- backslash and question mark I think.  Maybe tab too.  I can check again if that info is needed. The felt mat had moisture on it that didn't dry when I assembled it and it screwed it up. I screwed up.

Now what's so special about this board?  These are "vintage browns" from 3 years ago and the bump is ever just so slightly detectable.  Almost, but not quite a linear.  It must be this particular lot cuz any other brown is considerably more clicky.  Most people would hate it.  It was my favorite board.  It was also very quiet. I like them so much I want to transfer them to my new Leopold, also with browns. It just seems a little ridiculous to do so- to put them back into the same model board.  I'm using it now.  I have 10 boards and I use like 2 of them.

My knowledge of the layout of the PCB is not enough to fix this.  There could be one little spot of corrosion which could be scraped and soldered.  Or the entire controller could be fudged. Or a short. I do plan on harvesting these  switches anyway, but I would love to just fix it.  Does someone smarter than me know where the problem lies based on my description?  I've manually connected the switch prongs together and wired them to other switches, but could not get them to register in any way.  The problem may not even be visible and I don't know what to look for.  I haven't disassembled it yet, but I'm definitely keeping the switches.  I also didn't clean the underside of the pcb well, but I know there was moisture on the mat so I'm sure that was the problem.

Is it possible to buy the PCB somewhere?  That would be easy.  I can check for open circuits or see if voltage registeres but I don't know where to look.  There are sooo many traces.  The fact that it's the home  row may mean something.  If someone thinks they may be helpful I can desolder all the switches and show both sides of the pcb.  I was hoping one day I'd plug it in and it would work again, but that hasn't happened.  If you can't help thanks for reading my long post anyway.

I hear there are clueboard pcb's that fit the Leopold case?

[MarkParkinson]

Leopold presumably gives the highest  quality of mechanical keyboards unlike most  brands. The sound engrossing pads truly helps decreasing noise produced by reverberation inside the keyboard. Strange that u have issue with Leopold product.

[SpAmRaY]

Leopold presumably gives the highest  quality of mechanical keyboards unlike most  brands. The sound engrossing pads truly helps decreasing noise produced by reverberation inside the keyboard. Strange that u have issue with Leopold product.

Coffee tends to not be compatible with keyboard internals.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[jcoffin1981]

Leopold presumably gives the highest  quality of mechanical keyboards unlike most  brands. The sound engrossing pads truly helps decreasing noise produced by reverberation inside the keyboard. Strange that u have issue with Leopold product.

Coffee tends to not be compatible with keyboard internals.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Leopold presumably gives the highest  quality of mechanical keyboards unlike most  brands. The sound engrossing pads truly helps decreasing noise produced by reverberation inside the keyboard. Strange that u have issue with Leopold product.

Coffee tends to not be compatible with keyboard internals.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I have arrived at the same conclusion on more than one occasion.

I've decided to replace it.  Clueboard pcb.  I prefer the older caps and switches on the Leopold 66.

[por.sds]

I have same problem on my FC980M with coffee as well! The left ctrl was intermittently working at first and completely silence few days after. I tired to swap the switch and still not work. So I sent to a shop who can repair it, he found that some circuit was damaged (checked by multimeter) and fixed by wiring new line and it work great.

Hope this can help you.

[michtw]

I have same problem on my FC980M with coffee as well! The left ctrl was intermittently working at first and completely silence few days after. I tired to swap the switch and still not work. So I sent to a shop who can repair it, he found that some circuit was damaged (checked by multimeter) and fixed by wiring new line and it work great.

Hope this can help you.

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Hi por.sds,
   The pictures of the links had disappeared. Could you upload the pictures again? Thanks.

[Maledicted]

I have same problem on my FC980M with coffee as well! The left ctrl was intermittently working at first and completely silence few days after. I tired to swap the switch and still not work. So I sent to a shop who can repair it, he found that some circuit was damaged (checked by multimeter) and fixed by wiring new line and it work great.

Hope this can help you.

Show Image

Show Image

Hi por.sds,
   The pictures of the links had disappeared. Could you upload the pictures again? Thanks.

That guy has only made one post and hasn't logged in in 2 months (I find it surprising that it was that recent with such an old account that has never posted since).

A picture of some random repair is unlikely to be of any use to you anyway. If you have a similar problem, you probably want to start your own thread so one of the keyboard matrix wizards like suicidal_orange can chime on on what you need to test and/or rewire. You'll probably want to start with a very specific description of the problem and some good pictures of the affected area with adequate lighting.

[michtw]

I have same problem on my FC980M with coffee as well! The left ctrl was intermittently working at first and completely silence few days after. I tired to swap the switch and still not work. So I sent to a shop who can repair it, he found that some circuit was damaged (checked by multimeter) and fixed by wiring new line and it work great.

Hope this can help you.

Show Image

Show Image

Hi por.sds,
   The pictures of the links had disappeared. Could you upload the pictures again? Thanks.

That guy has only made one post and hasn't logged in in 2 months (I find it surprising that it was that recent with such an old account that has never posted since).

A picture of some random repair is unlikely to be of any use to you anyway. If you have a similar problem, you probably want to start your own thread so one of the keyboard matrix wizards like suicidal_orange can chime on on what you need to test and/or rewire. You'll probably want to start with a very specific description of the problem and some good pictures of the affected area with adequate lighting.

Yes, I had a similar problem with Leopold FC750R that spilled water on.
Then the entire key was working except for B and N was not working.

I had tried to replace two diodes but B & N key still not working.
I have no idea what the problem is and how to rewire.

[suicidal_orange]

Green, can see stuff   Filco(?), so designed by a madman

You can see where B connects to V, short that pin of V to the bottom of the diodes next to the one you've replaced and it should type a B.  Then touch the bottom of the diodes you replaced and I guess it wont type anything.  Same with N and M.  If I'm right you just need a jumper connecting the diodes you replaced to the ones next to it.

If that makes no sense say so and I'll fire up paint when I get home

[michtw]

Green, can see stuff   Filco, so designed by a madman

You can see where B connects to V, short that pin of V to the bottom of the diodes next to the one you've replaced and it should type a B.  Then touch the bottom of the diodes you replaced and I guess it wont type anything.  Same with N and M.  If I'm right you just need a jumper connecting the diodes you replaced to the ones next to it.

If that makes no sense say so and I'll fire up paint when I get home

Thanks for your help.
I draw two lines on the picture you have mentioned.
Is it correct ？

And I also had uploaded an original image if you needed it.
https://i.imgur.com/9gGhYy6.jpg

[suicidal_orange]

It's not wrong, but it's not everything



Touch a wire from orange to blue and it will type an N (if not don't go any further, the design is stranger than it looks)  Touching orange to red should also type N, if it doesn't you need to solder a wire between red and blue.  Then orange to yellow should type an N, if it doesn't your diode is dead (unlikely as you replaced it but you never know!)  Then orange to magenta should type an N.  If it doesn't you need to solder a wire between orange and cyan

If you soldered red to blue you may fix B at the same time, if not do the same as above but starting on that switch.