Post by: mkawa on Fri, 06 June 2014, 17:49:54
quick announcement: i really want to encourage people to build these themselves. to that end, and with an _extremely_ generous donation from geniekid, if you order any form of the learn to solder kit, either the cl1481 standard kit (without soldapullt or nippers), or the learn to solder special kit (with the soldapullt and snippers), and you purchase a smallfry kit, we will provide you with an _extra_ pcb, free of charge, courtesy of geniekid, in case you make a mistake while constructing your kit :eek:
announcement#2: we will now be color anodizing the titanium plates. the range of colors available is on the order page at the link above. once you've looked at the colors, please express your color preferences for your kit here (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy)
jdcarpe's 40% keyboard design with titanium top and bottom plates and a sorbothane gasket between the two. The kit will come with PCB, top and bottom titanium plates (without notches for switch removal), all necessary fasteners (machine screws and spacers) and small rubber bumpons for placing the keyboard at an angle.
100% of profits from this project will be donated to the Nathan J Walter foundation, a scholarship trust set up by the family of Nathan Walter aka Smallfry to support eagle scout community service projects. The first such project was a set of benches overlooking a lake, built by one of Nathan's pack-mates and friends, with a dedication to Nathan etched on the benches.
We miss you Smallfry.
Lead-time on this project will be between 4 and 6 weeks due to tooling and shipment times. Cost is 159$ per kit.
Our original goal with this project was to ship the kit by Nathan's birthday next month, just before keycon. Unfortunately, I don't think we will be able to meet that deadline, but kits should ship shortly after.
The image below is one of jdcarpe's stainless steel prototypes. The major difference between the smallfry 40% and his prototype is that the plates will be titanium: lighter, just as strong, and with a particularly cool looking surface finish. The second major difference is that, instead of the space between the plates being empty, they will have a black sorbothane gasket. Sorbothane is a rubber-like plastic that absorbs vibration. Hence, even though it will be a strong, very light keyboard, it will sound and feel like a much heavier board.
Post by: Pacifist on Fri, 06 June 2014, 17:51:33
Post by: Yslen on Fri, 06 June 2014, 17:59:12
- You mentioned that there might be an option to buy this kit without the standard top plate, to avoid redundancy for those ordering the version with switch cutouts. Is this still possible?
- Will both this kit and the custom top plates be shipped together? I'm in the UK so it would be great if shipping could be combined!
Thanks, and thanks again for making this happen :D
Post by: Zeal on Fri, 06 June 2014, 18:00:13
Edit: Just to confirm, we'll need to source:
40x MX switches
2x
1x Teensy
1x Female Mini USB port (SMD?)
_x diodes? Which ones? :o
Post by: Jrwestcoast on Fri, 06 June 2014, 18:07:52
Post by: mashby on Fri, 06 June 2014, 18:08:49
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 06 June 2014, 18:13:20
A couple of questions about the custom cut top plate (with switch cutouts) that a few people ordered to go with this kit:yep, i can ship them at the same time.
- You mentioned that there might be an option to buy this kit without the standard top plate, to avoid redundancy for those ordering the version with switch cutouts. Is this still possible?
- Will both this kit and the custom top plates be shipped together? I'm in the UK so it would be great if shipping could be combined!
Thanks, and thanks again for making this happen :D
it is still possible to order the kit without top plate but i need to calculate the cost difference and my brain is currently fried. for now, please order the full kit and put in your order notes that you don't need the top plate. i will give you a partial refund for the difference. once i calculate the cost difference, i will add an option for it.
Post by: Pacifist on Fri, 06 June 2014, 18:22:20
Post by: Zeal on Fri, 06 June 2014, 18:28:49
how much more is the plate with cutouts compared to no cutouts?
The switch plate with cutouts is already sold out. It was $90/plate. Price is mostly due to the extra cuts required on the laser vs waterjet.
Post by: Yslen on Fri, 06 June 2014, 18:37:47
A couple of questions about the custom cut top plate (with switch cutouts) that a few people ordered to go with this kit:yep, i can ship them at the same time.
- You mentioned that there might be an option to buy this kit without the standard top plate, to avoid redundancy for those ordering the version with switch cutouts. Is this still possible?
- Will both this kit and the custom top plates be shipped together? I'm in the UK so it would be great if shipping could be combined!
Thanks, and thanks again for making this happen :D
it is still possible to order the kit without top plate but i need to calculate the cost difference and my brain is currently fried. for now, please order the full kit and put in your order notes that you don't need the top plate. i will give you a partial refund for the difference. once i calculate the cost difference, i will add an option for it.
You're awesome, thanks :)
EDIT: Ordered, note added as requested :)
Post by: hwood34 on Fri, 06 June 2014, 18:41:59
Post by: jdcarpe on Fri, 06 June 2014, 18:44:38
Done. ;D ^I also wouldn't need a top plate, as I purchased the removable switch top plate. I'll leave a note here, as I've already placed my order.
Edit: Just to confirm, we'll need to source:
40x MX switches
2x PCB mount stabilizers, 1x 6.25u Spacebar wire
1x Teensy
1x Female Mini USB port (SMD?)
_x diodes? Which ones? :o
The female USB Mini-B port is through hole, not SMD.
Also, a solder type male USB Mini-B end would be helpful.
Diodes are through hole 1N4148 rectifier diodes.
Post by: LechnerDE on Fri, 06 June 2014, 22:32:03
I am spending way too much on keyboard stuff anyway and I am pretty sure I will not really use this layout. Would be a pretty expensive toy that will just sit on my desktop and look pretty.
But it's soooo tempting :p
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 06 June 2014, 22:45:38
I've also made a note about not needing the top plate, mkawa. :D
Post by: AKmalamute on Sat, 07 June 2014, 00:59:33
Is there a limited supply for this kit? Is there a deadline?Don't know about the deadline, but it's not limited -- in fact, if I was following the IC correctly, 30 kits is about the break-even point for the organizers -- no profit until that point, thus the NJW fund can't get any meaningful donation until about 40 kits.
I think 40 is about the number of kits that can be cut from one piece of titanium, so that might be something of a limitation -- 40 kits plus folks that have plates from the laser cut titanium or one of JD's steel plates.
Any chance at a PCB-only portion of the GB? And, does this board currently have PCB-mount holes like the ergodox, or is it plate-only like the phantom? ...Those are my questions...
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 01:31:48
because of that, pcb-only kits don't make a lot of sense.
Post by: snoopy on Sat, 07 June 2014, 02:53:18
Ordered. :D
Post by: tototo on Sat, 07 June 2014, 04:54:27
Quote
The kit will come with
PCB,
top and bottom titanium plates (without notches for switch removal),
all necessary fasteners (machine screws and spacers) and
small rubber bumpons for placing the keyboard at an angle.
The in addition you need to get hold of:
40x MX switches
2xPCBPlate mount stabilizers, 1x 6.25u Spacebar wire
1x Teensy
1x Female Mini USB port (SMD?)
_x diodes?
The information on the ordering page is poor. It should clearly state what you get and also what other parts that are the bare necessities to turn it into functioning keyboard. I like the initiative but don't know for sure what I would be ordering and thus what other bits that I need to get myself.
Post by: Defect on Sat, 07 June 2014, 08:13:59
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 07 June 2014, 08:21:52
No chance on PCB only? Recently got into making wood cases.
You still would need a switch mounting plate, at the very least. Everything on this PCB is designed for plate mounting, meaning there are no holes in the PCB for mounting the spacebar stabilizer or for PCB mount switch pins.
Post by: SL89 on Sat, 07 June 2014, 08:25:05
So for now I'll just stay on jdcarpe's wait-list.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 09:12:08
Am I missing something or is the deal that for the $160 you get:QuoteThe kit will come with
PCB,
top and bottom titanium plates (without notches for switch removal),
all necessary fasteners (machine screws and spacers) and
small rubber bumpons for placing the keyboard at an angle.
The in addition you need to get hold of:40x MX switches
2xPCBPlate mount stabilizers, 1x 6.25u Spacebar wire
1x Teensy
1x Female Mini USB port (SMD?)
_x diodes?
The information on the ordering page is poor. It should clearly state what you get and also what other parts that are the bare necessities to turn it into functioning keyboard. I like the initiative but don't know for sure what I would be ordering and thus what other bits that I need to get myself.
yes, sorry, we'll be beefing that page up as we go. as i said before, we will put out a single-click bill of materials to order all the necessary passive components from the major parts suppliers, picking up stock of teensies, and some other stuff. sorry, brain's still a bit fried.
the response to this so far has been incredible. thanks everyone!
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 09:32:28
Is there a limited supply for this kit? Is there a deadline?unless i get a HUGE number of orders in the next few days, there is a limited supply that i've computed for. i actually don't have an exact count of how many units i will be able to yield because of the laser-cut plates already sold and some other stuff, but it's like 45-ish total to be conservative. the break-even point is at approximately 35 units. i have to order material in multiples of 20-ish kits, and i wasn't confident enough in demand to get to 60 kits, but if people overwhelm me with orders, we can totally get more made. more units is just more donation to the smallfry scholarship trust, so i'm absolutely happy to do it.
I am spending way too much on keyboard stuff anyway and I am pretty sure I will not really use this layout. Would be a pretty expensive toy that will just sit on my desktop and look pretty.
But it's soooo tempting :p
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 09:32:54
Post by: lowmagnet on Sat, 07 June 2014, 11:13:13
Post by: snoopy on Sat, 07 June 2014, 11:24:24
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 11:26:48
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 12:13:29
Post by: daddytime on Sat, 07 June 2014, 13:09:32
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 07 June 2014, 13:39:59
do you need plate mount or pcb mount switches??
Plate mount. Or you can clip the plastic "legs" off PCB mount switches.
Post by: mashby on Sat, 07 June 2014, 13:44:51
do you need plate mount or pcb mount switches??
You would want to use Plate mounted switches, but if you have PCB mounted switches you can trim off the extra pins with clippers. So, technically, either would work.
Post by: daddytime on Sat, 07 June 2014, 13:50:28
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=315
is that the spacebar wire I need??
Post by: Yslen on Sat, 07 June 2014, 13:57:47
to be clear, if we can move about 25 units by next thursday, when i will be ordering the stock material, i will buy 2 more sheets: enough to make 20-ish more units for between 60 and 70 total units available. if all units sell at the 45-ish number, i will be able to make a multi-thousand dollar donation to the NJW foundation. if i can move 20 more, i can add more than a thousand dollars to that donation total.
It might well be worth advertising that very fact, in case people aren't aware to what extent this is a charity endeavour :)
Post by: Grendel on Sat, 07 June 2014, 14:25:31
Post by: daddytime on Sat, 07 June 2014, 14:32:56
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 14:49:12
quick announcement: i really want to encourage people to build these themselves. to that end, and with an _extremely_ generous donation from geniekid, if you order any form of the learn to solder kit, either the cl1481 standard kit (without soldapullt or nippers), or the learn to solder special kit (with the soldapullt and snippers), and you purchase a smallfry kit, we will provide you with an _extra_ pcb, free of charge, courtesy of geniekid, in case you make a mistake while constructing your kit :eek:
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sat, 07 June 2014, 14:52:10
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 07 June 2014, 14:52:42
can we get a shot of the pcb??
(http://i.imgur.com/dKVQv2z.jpg)
Post by: daddytime on Sat, 07 June 2014, 14:56:26
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 14:58:53
also, looking at the orders, we are only 10 units away from hitting the 25 unit mark :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
i feel i should also make sure people are aware that we ran this effort by Largefry long before serious planning began and he is aware and approves of the project. i'm incredibly humbled by the generosity of the GH community. i did not think we would reach these numbers at all, especially within 24 hours of opening orders. HUGE THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO IS PARTICIPATING!
Post by: daddytime on Sat, 07 June 2014, 15:01:22
Post by: Pacifist on Sat, 07 June 2014, 15:09:43
Purchased! Along with some extra stuffs
1x Edsyn RS200 tip cleaning sponge for $3.00 each
1x Edsyn Soldering Iron Tips - LT374 (small 0.8mm chisel) for $5.00 each
1x The Smallfry Keyboard Kit for $159.00 each
1x ID Innovations ps2 to USB adapter - 1-pack for $10.00 each
1x Kester 44 63/37 Sn/Pb RA 0.02" Solder - Appx 1oz for $12.00 each
1x Edsyn Blunt-Nose Tw eezers f or $5.00 each
1x Edsyn/GH DS017GH Desoldering Hand Pump - DS017GH complete unit for $20.00 each
Post by: Thechemist on Sat, 07 June 2014, 16:04:42
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sat, 07 June 2014, 16:12:58
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask if is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
^^ Another great guy right here folks, he knows his way around a soldering iron. ;)
Post by: Thechemist on Sat, 07 June 2014, 16:57:52
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
**** IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THIS SERVICE PM ME SO THAT I CAN GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO PUT IN THE NOTES WHEN ORDERING THE KEYBOARD****
I have spoken with Mkawa and he will combine all the kits and ship them to me. I will then split that cost between the individuals, this way you will only pay shipping from me ( USA, Conus ) to you + the split cost of shipping to me instead of paying shipping twice ( Thank you Mkawa ).
If you don't have the switches, I can purchase them ( 50 pack ) from Mechanicalkeyboards for $29 including shipping
Colors available as of this post from MK
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
BLACK
GRAY
WHITE
CLEAR
Some of the switches will require me to convert them from PCB to plate by clipping the two legs off, this will not affect the switch in any way.
I can also do a ergo-clear mod if you purchase / send me the springs.
I am including free diodes / resistor / led on caps lock ( blue / red / purple ) / spacebar stabilizer / usb connector / usb cable for the teensy with the assembly, you will still need to buy a teensy 2.0 which will be offered later and your choice of switches from MK or the ones you want to send me.
Post by: Thechemist on Sat, 07 June 2014, 17:12:38
1. Vibex
2. GSimon
3. babyeatinwu
4. byker
5. ranker
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 07 June 2014, 17:23:47
Post by: Pacifist on Sat, 07 June 2014, 17:27:42
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 07 June 2014, 17:30:57
What's the eta of these boards? I want to get one made before July 5th
Not likely to happen.
Post by: Vibex on Sat, 07 June 2014, 17:33:49
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.I'll take you up on this offer if they haven't all been taken.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 17:52:59
Post by: Latin00032 on Sat, 07 June 2014, 18:57:16
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
**** IF YOU ARE INTEREST IN THIS SERVICE PM ME SO THAT I CAN GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO PUT IN THE NOTES WHEN ORDERING THE KEYBOARD****
I have spoken with Mkawa and he will combine all the kits and ship them to me. I will then split that cost between the individuals, this way you will only pay shipping from me ( USA, Conus ) to you + the split cost of shipping to me instead of paying shipping twice ( Thank you Mkawa ).
If you don't have the switches, I can purchase them ( 50 pack ) from Mechanicalkeyboards for $29 including shipping
Colors available as of this post from MK
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
BLACK
GRAY
WHITE
CLEAR
Some of the switches will require me to convert them from PCB to plate by clipping the two legs off, this will not affect the switch in any way.
I can also do a ergo-clear mod if you purchase / send me the springs.
I am including free diodes / resistor / led on caps lock ( blue / red / purple ) / spacebar stabilizer / usb connector with the assembly, you will still need to buy a teensy 2.0 which will be offered later and your choice of switches from MK or the ones you want to send me.
I thought this kit came with the teensy.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 19:08:10
Post by: Pacifist on Sat, 07 June 2014, 19:20:59
Post by: tbc on Sat, 07 June 2014, 19:22:39
Post by: Thechemist on Sat, 07 June 2014, 19:23:02
Forgot to ask, will the pcb allow pcb mounted switches? Don't want to cut off the pegs on the switches I have right now
No, you will have to either cut the legs, swap the bottom of the switch or use plate mount switches.
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 07 June 2014, 19:23:23
Forgot to ask, will the pcb allow pcb mounted switches? Don't want to cut off the pegs on the switches I have right now
I hate to do this but...
do you need plate mount or pcb mount switches??
Plate mount. Or you can clip the plastic "legs" off PCB mount switches.
Post by: Vibex on Sat, 07 June 2014, 19:32:08
EDIT: Sorry I didn't know my name was confidential. :-[
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 20:25:33
Post by: mooswa on Sat, 07 June 2014, 21:54:38
Post by: GSimon on Sat, 07 June 2014, 23:57:14
:D :D :D muchas gracias!I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 08 June 2014, 00:16:20
Post by: Lingj on Sun, 08 June 2014, 00:30:59
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first543 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
Props. I would definitely do this if I didn't want to build it myself.
Also, Ordered.
Post by: babyeatinwu on Sun, 08 June 2014, 01:11:33
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first543 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
Ordered!
Would love to have this service. Thanks!
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 08 June 2014, 01:20:48
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 08 June 2014, 01:30:28
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 08 June 2014, 01:37:00
i'm pretty sure you guys just blew away that 25 unit goal i set for NEXT THURSDAY :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Nice. Did you get my PM?
Post by: tbc on Sun, 08 June 2014, 02:31:55
I wonder how a brushed stainless spacer would look between the plates??
are you volunteering yourself to make and sell some spacers for this project? :p
Post by: LechnerDE on Sun, 08 June 2014, 02:34:21
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first543 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
That is a generous offer sir! I am not from the US, but I would love to take a spot if possible.
I pay for the shipping to EU of course.
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 08 June 2014, 03:26:14
I wonder how a brushed stainless spacer would look between the plates??
are you volunteering yourself to make and sell some spacers for this project? :p
Sadly no.
Post by: Lu_e on Sun, 08 June 2014, 04:09:32
Post by: nuclearsandwich on Sun, 08 June 2014, 08:42:35
Post by: Vibex on Sun, 08 June 2014, 08:44:23
So no more mod friendly top plates?No, they only did a limited run. :'( If there is a second round though I would totally be in for one. ;)
Post by: daddytime on Sun, 08 June 2014, 09:47:47
Post by: daddytime on Sun, 08 June 2014, 09:48:46
Post by: taylordcraig on Sun, 08 June 2014, 11:01:28
I have a constructed JD40 and cutout top plate.
Post by: Darkwell on Sun, 08 June 2014, 11:19:55
Post by: byker on Sun, 08 June 2014, 13:15:15
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 08 June 2014, 13:25:34
Any chance I could just get a Ti bottom plate?there's going to be a limited number of bottom plate-only kits, and priority will go to the people who had notched ti top plates cut. the last few cuts are in flux though, so i'm not exactly sure how many extra bottom plate units there will be.
I have a constructed JD40 and cutout top plate.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 08 June 2014, 13:27:22
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!the link to order is on the store.
there are only really two points that need to be taken heed of when soldering up the PCB. one hookup wire needs to be run between the USB port ground and the teensy, and the teensy needs to be mounted very flush to the pcb bottom. other than that, i would say it's a good beginner project and probably easier than an ergodox.
Post by: tbc on Sun, 08 June 2014, 13:40:37
Post by: geniekid on Sun, 08 June 2014, 13:58:06
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!
This is a great project for learning how to solder. Through hole soldering of resistors and switches is very basic. Also, if you don't already have a soldering kit I highly recommend picking up the kit from Geekhackers.org (http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/hand-tools/products/special-discount-learn-to-solder-kit). That's the one I used when learning how to solder and if you buy it in conjunction with the Smallfry kit you'll get a second Smallfry PCB free. I honestly think with 1 PCB you'd be hard pressed to make a mistake that's unrecoverable, but with 2 you could even end up with an extra PCB for a future project!
Post by: Lingj on Sun, 08 June 2014, 14:12:45
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!
This is a great project for learning how to solder. Through hole soldering of resistors and switches is very basic. Also, if you don't already have a soldering kit I highly recommend picking up the kit from Geekhackers.org (http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/hand-tools/products/special-discount-learn-to-solder-kit). That's the one I used when learning how to solder and if you buy it in conjunction with the Smallfry kit you'll get a second Smallfry PCB free. I honestly think with 1 PCB you'd be hard pressed to make a mistake that's unrecoverable, but with 2 you could even end up with an extra PCB for a future project!
Do I have to order the deluxe kit or can I just order the soldering iron with the smallfry?
Post by: hwood34 on Sun, 08 June 2014, 14:19:52
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!
This is a great project for learning how to solder. Through hole soldering of resistors and switches is very basic. Also, if you don't already have a soldering kit I highly recommend picking up the kit from Geekhackers.org (http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/hand-tools/products/special-discount-learn-to-solder-kit). That's the one I used when learning how to solder and if you buy it in conjunction with the Smallfry kit you'll get a second Smallfry PCB free. I honestly think with 1 PCB you'd be hard pressed to make a mistake that's unrecoverable, but with 2 you could even end up with an extra PCB for a future project!
Do I have to order the deluxe kit or can I just order the soldering iron with the smallfry?
images are on the product page
quick announcement: i really want to encourage people to build these themselves. to that end, and with an _extremely_ generous donation from geniekid, if you order any form of the learn to solder kit, either the cl1481 standard kit (without soldapullt or nippers), or the learn to solder special kit (with the soldapullt and snippers), and you purchase a smallfry kit, we will provide you with an _extra_ pcb, free of charge, courtesy of geniekid, in case you make a mistake while constructing your kit :eek:
Post by: geniekid on Sun, 08 June 2014, 14:36:28
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!
This is a great project for learning how to solder. Through hole soldering of resistors and switches is very basic. Also, if you don't already have a soldering kit I highly recommend picking up the kit from Geekhackers.org (http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/hand-tools/products/special-discount-learn-to-solder-kit). That's the one I used when learning how to solder and if you buy it in conjunction with the Smallfry kit you'll get a second Smallfry PCB free. I honestly think with 1 PCB you'd be hard pressed to make a mistake that's unrecoverable, but with 2 you could even end up with an extra PCB for a future project!
Do I have to order the deluxe kit or can I just order the soldering iron with the smallfry?
Actually that's a good question. My understanding is you don't need the deluxe kit (with soldapullt and cutters), but I think you will need the *standard kit* that comes with the iron holder, Kester solder, additional tips, tip changing wrench, and an extension cord. I do not believe just the iron itself will qualify for the deal. mkawa has the final say in this matter so hopefully he will correct me if I am wrong!
Post by: Pacifist on Sun, 08 June 2014, 15:28:13
http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1
I'm probally going to order a set of these, is this enough to cover the weird mods?
Post by: findingthelimit on Sun, 08 June 2014, 15:33:33
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sun, 08 June 2014, 15:37:08
I've never built a keyboard before, and i will be learning how to do so when the duck viper / eagle is out. How similar would this be? I will probably buy the soldering kit and get into this business this summer :D
You will probably want to practice on something you don't mind ruining before trying on a keyboard.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sun, 08 June 2014, 15:37:37
DSA is pretty much the only option for caps, is that right?
http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1
I'm probally going to order a set of these, is this enough to cover the weird mods?
Round 5 had a 40% set option.
Post by: Lingj on Sun, 08 June 2014, 15:40:16
Actually that's a good question. My understanding is you don't need the deluxe kit (with soldapullt and cutters), but I think you will need the *standard kit* that comes with the iron holder, Kester solder, additional tips, tip changing wrench, and an extension cord. I do not believe just the iron itself will qualify for the deal. mkawa has the final say in this matter so hopefully he will correct me if I am wrong!
Yeah, I'm asking this because there is no "standard kit" labeled in the store.
Post by: geniekid on Sun, 08 June 2014, 16:22:31
I've never built a keyboard before, and i will be learning how to do so when the duck viper / eagle is out. How similar would this be? I will probably buy the soldering kit and get into this business this summer :D
It would be very similar. You would need to solder both switches and diodes for both boards. Maybe the LEDs you would have to solder for the Viper/Eagle would require a tiny bit more precision than the plain switch diodes for the Smallfry (the Viper/Eagle have those presoldered), but you'll need that level of precision to solder on the Teensy controller for the Smallfry anyway (the Viper/Eagle also has the controller presoldered).
If you're going to get the Geekhacker's soldering kit and if the timing for each GB allows for it, I would echo Spamray's implied recommendation (I think) of doing the Smallfry first since 1) you'll get an extra PCB to practice on and 2) the Smallfry will be significantly less expensive than the Viper/Eagle.
Post by: geniekid on Sun, 08 June 2014, 16:25:03
Actually that's a good question. My understanding is you don't need the deluxe kit (with soldapullt and cutters), but I think you will need the *standard kit* that comes with the iron holder, Kester solder, additional tips, tip changing wrench, and an extension cord. I do not believe just the iron itself will qualify for the deal. mkawa has the final say in this matter so hopefully he will correct me if I am wrong!
Yeah, I'm asking this because there is no "standard kit" labeled in the store.
I can confidently state the "standard kit" is the $79.00 one you can select when you're looking at this (http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/soldering-tools-and-supplies/products/edsyn-cl1481-soldering-iron).
Post by: taylordcraig on Sun, 08 June 2014, 16:51:03
Any chance I could just get a Ti bottom plate?there's going to be a limited number of bottom plate-only kits, and priority will go to the people who had notched ti top plates cut. the last few cuts are in flux though, so i'm not exactly sure how many extra bottom plate units there will be.
I have a constructed JD40 and cutout top plate.
I got one of those notched top plates. Shouldn't be an issue, then?
Possible to get it without the PCB, too? Should I use the order form in the OP?
Post by: slickmamba on Sun, 08 June 2014, 20:34:55
Post by: Puddsy on Sun, 08 June 2014, 21:26:32
Smallfry is a very important part of this website, even almost a year after his passing.
I hope everyone enjoys their smallfry keyboards once they're all built.
Post by: AKmalamute on Sun, 08 June 2014, 23:47:22
Congrats to everyone involved on getting this to be such a success! I wasn't here to meet Smallfry, but reading about him makes me happy :)
I'd order but no money.
Smallfry is a very important part of this website, even almost a year after his passing.
I hope everyone enjoys their smallfry keyboards once they're all built.
I'm in the same boat. Way cool too, that they're going classy with the Ti plate/base.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 09 June 2014, 11:03:55
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 09 June 2014, 11:08:00
Post by: margo baggins on Mon, 09 June 2014, 12:38:43
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 09 June 2014, 12:51:58
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 09 June 2014, 13:39:01
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 09 June 2014, 16:05:19
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.
note that margo is in the EU
I will offer the same in the US. Located fairly central in Iowa. I would like to note this would just be the physical assembly. I don't have enough experience in the software side to feel comfortable doing firmware.
Post by: shrapneL on Mon, 09 June 2014, 16:45:40
Post by: CPTBadAss on Mon, 09 June 2014, 16:48:04
Also, for additional donations to the NJW foundation, please hold onto your money for now. I am still waiting to hear back from Largefry re: the status of the trust. Ideally, it's best if additional donations go directly to him. However, if you donate to geekhack via the donation buttons anywhere on this site and put "please donate this directly to the NJW foundation" or anything to that effect, I will make sure that the money gets to the NJW foundation.
I contacted him as well. I won't be getting in on this buy since I've had bits and pieces of the board for a while but I'd still like to donate.
Post by: i3oilermaker on Mon, 09 June 2014, 16:56:33
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 09 June 2014, 17:02:39
Post by: Pacifist on Mon, 09 June 2014, 17:09:11
On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
Hype!
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 09 June 2014, 18:02:33
Post by: Pacifist on Mon, 09 June 2014, 18:05:10
I will provide a "default" firmware so that everyone can program their Teensys. Also, I believe metalliqaz' Easy AVR firmware will work with these. Either way, all you have to do to load the firmware onto the Teensy is to use PJRC's excellent Teensy Loader software.
I highly recommend metalliqaz's firmware, its simple but also highly powerful. There's 10 layers, perfect for the 40%
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 09 June 2014, 19:42:12
Post by: shrapneL on Mon, 09 June 2014, 20:37:23
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 09 June 2014, 21:02:11
At this point, I'm optimizing the total available units by my ability to keep my own sanity.
However, if we're almost sold out by Thursday, when the material order goes in, I guess I'll have to buy more? Again, shocked.
By my current estimates, as of right now, there are 43 more units available. Have at it, I guess :)
Post by: byker on Mon, 09 June 2014, 23:17:36
Post by: slickmamba on Tue, 10 June 2014, 00:01:48
Post by: byker on Tue, 10 June 2014, 00:19:45
So if I just bought a weller last week, do I not qualify for the extra pcb =/
I was eyeing up the $35 kit to go with the keyboard, but someone snagged the last one.
Post by: LechnerDE on Tue, 10 June 2014, 02:12:37
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.
I already asked Thechemist to assemble mine, but since he is in the US it might make more sense to ask you.
How would it work? What's the total costs? 25$ for assembly + switches?
How do I order a kit so you will get it?
Post by: margo baggins on Tue, 10 June 2014, 05:06:03
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.
I already asked Thechemist to assemble mine, but since he is in the US it might make more sense to ask you.
How would it work? What's the total costs? 25$ for assembly + switches?
How do I order a kit so you will get it?
Errm, I have some instructions somewhere - I will send them to you later :D
Post by: LechnerDE on Tue, 10 June 2014, 05:26:59
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.
I already asked Thechemist to assemble mine, but since he is in the US it might make more sense to ask you.
How would it work? What's the total costs? 25$ for assembly + switches?
How do I order a kit so you will get it?
Errm, I have some instructions somewhere - I will send them to you later :D
Thanks :thumb:
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Tue, 10 June 2014, 08:03:03
just curious, when will this GB end? Is there a deadline or a target number to reach?
Post by: Hellmark on Tue, 10 June 2014, 08:26:29
Post by: Pacifist on Tue, 10 June 2014, 11:00:10
Would it be possible to buy just the PCB? $159 is bit pricy for me right now (especially since that is before controller, switches, and caps), and I'm kinda wanting to make a things a bit different anyway (want to make a clamshell tablet case with a keyboard built in).
Just a PCB won't be much use unless you get a plate machined yourself
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 10 June 2014, 11:03:01
Would it be possible to buy just the PCB? $159 is bit pricy for me right now (especially since that is before controller, switches, and caps), and I'm kinda wanting to make a things a bit different anyway (want to make a clamshell tablet case with a keyboard built in).
Just a PCB won't be much use unless you get a plate machined yourself
Not to mention that's going to be one THICK tablet case. The minimum distance between the bottom of the top plate and the top of the bottom (plate, housing, whatever) is 0.5 inches (12mm). Because the Teensy sticks off the back of the PCB, and has a USB connector there.
Post by: snoopy on Tue, 10 June 2014, 11:04:36
Post by: Pacifist on Tue, 10 June 2014, 11:07:57
what's the best/cheapest source to get plate-mounted stabilizers for this beauty?
mkawa is working on getting plate mounted stabs for geekhackers.org
Apart from that, whiskeytango was selling used ones from wyse boards, but he locked that thread
My source is scavenged from old boards
And I do belive that if you clip the ends of a PCB mount it will fit
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 10 June 2014, 11:09:40
And I do belive that if you clip the ends of a PCB mount it will fit
Nope. They don't have the notch that mounts to the plate. :(
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 10 June 2014, 15:11:26
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
Post by: Vibex on Tue, 10 June 2014, 15:18:38
heads up! my laser-cutter was able to fit two more NOTCHED plates on the sheet of Ti that I had on hand. first come first serve!Just bought one. Can you combind it with the shipment to TheChemist to save on shipping costs? And did you say before that you would offer a discount for people who bought them so you didn't have to send them a new notched and unotched plate?
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 10 June 2014, 15:48:11
Post by: Vibex on Tue, 10 June 2014, 15:50:34
yes and yesAwesome. I was really sad when I didn't have the cash to buy it the first time around. Really glad you found some space for more.
Post by: Hellmark on Wed, 11 June 2014, 01:44:21
Would it be possible to buy just the PCB? $159 is bit pricy for me right now (especially since that is before controller, switches, and caps), and I'm kinda wanting to make a things a bit different anyway (want to make a clamshell tablet case with a keyboard built in).
Just a PCB won't be much use unless you get a plate machined yourself
Not to mention that's going to be one THICK tablet case. The minimum distance between the bottom of the top plate and the top of the bottom (plate, housing, whatever) is 0.5 inches (12mm). Because the Teensy sticks off the back of the PCB, and has a USB connector there.
Getting a plate to spec wouldn't be an issue. Plus if I am having stuff made for the rest of the case, it is nothing more to add on a plate. Plus I'd like stainless steel, so I could polish it up. Thickness isn't really much of a concern. I wager it'd be a bit over an inch thick all said and done, but not a biggie. Some of the things I carry are that sized anyway. Still way more portable than a 15" laptop, and all the gear that needs.
Post by: tbc on Wed, 11 June 2014, 01:56:10
Post by: slickmamba on Wed, 11 June 2014, 02:15:19
heads up! my laser-cutter was able to fit two more NOTCHED plates on the sheet of Ti that I had on hand. first come first serve!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
damn training, missed these again =/
Post by: taylordcraig on Wed, 11 June 2014, 03:54:52
Would it be possible to buy just the PCB? $159 is bit pricy for me right now (especially since that is before controller, switches, and caps), and I'm kinda wanting to make a things a bit different anyway (want to make a clamshell tablet case with a keyboard built in).
Any chance I could just get a Ti bottom plate?there's going to be a limited number of bottom plate-only kits, and priority will go to the people who had notched ti top plates cut. the last few cuts are in flux though, so i'm not exactly sure how many extra bottom plate units there will be.
I have a constructed JD40 and cutout top plate.
I got one of those notched top plates. Shouldn't be an issue, then?
Possible to get it without the PCB, too? Should I use the order form in the OP?
If I could get a bottom Ti plate set, I could sell you my extra pcb [I already have a constructed jd40]
mkawa please respond on how I order this [sorry if I missed it before. It's late and I don't want to miss this buy]
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 11 June 2014, 07:45:02
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 11 June 2014, 07:46:04
ps, you people are crazy :eek:
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 11 June 2014, 14:16:38
Post by: taylordcraig on Wed, 11 June 2014, 14:38:07
if there are extra bottom plates after all the gb orders are sent out, i'll vend the parts separately. we're still talking about PCBs. for partial kits where you haven't purchased a notched plate already, best to wait until after the gb.
I purchased a notched plate.
What is my next course of action.
Judging by your above post I should place an order for a full kit and await a refund?
edit: i don't have the money to order one of these now. but i dont want to miss out on a ti bottom plate.
I can borrow money or something to get one of these NOW if that's the only way to 100% make sure I get one.
Else I'll wait until after and just get a bottom plate or bottomplate/pcb kit.
Post by: Zeal on Wed, 11 June 2014, 14:40:46
Post by: mashby on Wed, 11 June 2014, 15:04:07
We should totally have these kits laser etched with x/40 :cool:
That's a great idea! says the guy who have no idea what it would take to do that
Post by: jdcarpe on Wed, 11 June 2014, 15:13:15
(http://i.imgur.com/0A4Cf.jpg)
I don't mind engraving a logo and/or [number] of [total] on them, if it looks good on titanium. But shipping across the country and back would definitely increase the cost per unit.
Post by: Zeal on Wed, 11 June 2014, 16:01:37
Post by: Vibex on Wed, 11 June 2014, 17:12:09
That badge is beautiful! I personally wouldn't mind chipping in some more (if your laser cutter can cut Ti) to make this SmallFry board even more special, to commemorate Nathan Walker.I agree with Zeal, this would be awesome. ;D
Post by: Grendel on Wed, 11 June 2014, 18:34:38
Post by: GSimon on Wed, 11 June 2014, 18:53:04
Would prefer the back plain, sorry.
+1
I can understand the appeal and design wise it looks good, but it's not for me.
Post by: jdcarpe on Wed, 11 June 2014, 18:57:18
Would prefer the back plain, sorry.
+1
I can understand the appeal and design wise it looks good, but it's not for me.
Just to be clear, that image was just an example of how laser engraving looks on stainless steel. The actual JD40 logo is still being designed (by lastpilot).
Post by: byker on Wed, 11 June 2014, 22:03:03
Would prefer the back plain, sorry.
+1
I can understand the appeal and design wise it looks good, but it's not for me.
Just to be clear, that image was just an example of how laser engraving looks on stainless steel. The actual JD40 logo is still being designed (by lastpilot).
If it came as a badge, like the one pictured above, people could have the option of using it or not.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 11 June 2014, 22:08:32
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first5432 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
I know a few others have also chimed in already, but I'd like to add my services to the mix. I will assemble up to 5 of these completely free of charge as well. It seems like this might not be needed, but oh well. The option is there. :)
Post by: GSimon on Wed, 11 June 2014, 22:11:16
If it came as a badge, like the one pictured above, people could have the option of using it or not.
I should stop skim reading. I would like this as a badge, it appeals to me in this form :).
Post by: tbc on Wed, 11 June 2014, 23:41:43
Would prefer the back plain, sorry.
+1
I can understand the appeal and design wise it looks good, but it's not for me.
same here. i would really rather just get it into my hands asap as well.
Post by: taylordcraig on Thu, 12 June 2014, 12:19:54
I would love a badge I could optionally attach to my case.
Smallfry(Jd40)
xx/yy
But I guess I didn't order a whole board. :p
edit: oh yeah, any word on the RoR key caps?
Post by: nuclearsandwich on Thu, 12 June 2014, 12:53:29
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 12 June 2014, 13:13:55
Post by: MTManiac on Thu, 12 June 2014, 14:14:19
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 12 June 2014, 15:08:59
Post by: byker on Thu, 12 June 2014, 17:44:28
folks! i was just looking at the notes, and someone reminded me about previous learn to solder kit buyers. you will get a free 2nd pcb. just add a note to your order. thanks!!
I was wondering what other parts I will need to source, and if there will be a group buy for any of it? Or should I start looking for switches and stuff?
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 12 June 2014, 17:53:22
Post by: byker on Thu, 12 June 2014, 17:58:30
start with switches for now. there is likely to be a run on them since the gh60 boards are going to start hitting people and it may coincide with this board.
Great thanks. I will keep an eye out for some switches while I wait to see if there is a gb.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:09:26
i've found a titanium anodizer, and we have enough money to anodize EVERYTHING
MUAHAHAHAHA
Post by: Vibex on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:11:39
folks. i have some pretty incredible news.Awesome! ;D
i've found a titanium anodizer, and we have enough money to anodize EVERYTHING
MUAHAHAHAHA
Post by: Zeal on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:13:02
Post by: geniekid on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:15:23
folks. i have some pretty incredible news.
i've found a titanium anodizer, and we have enough money to anodize EVERYTHING
MUAHAHAHAHA
[attachimg=1]
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:45:13
Post by: Grendel on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:47:47
Post by: mashby on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:48:55
there will be a choice of colors
(http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view1/2394196/michael-palin-faint-o.gif)
Post by: GSimon on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:51:05
folks. i have some pretty incredible news.
i've found a titanium anodizer, and we have enough money to anodize EVERYTHING
MUAHAHAHAHA
there will be a choice of colors
(http://img2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20130127000419/glee/images/4/4d/Dsa.gif)
Post by: Vibex on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:52:51
there will be a choice of colorsEven more awesome! Any ideas for what colours will be offered?
Post by: Zeal on Fri, 13 June 2014, 15:53:09
there will be a choice of colors
!!! Yussss ;D
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 13 June 2014, 16:55:58
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 13 June 2014, 17:11:55
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 13 June 2014, 23:20:40
there will be a choice of colorsShow Image(http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view1/2394196/michael-palin-faint-o.gif)
Couldn't have said it better myself. :eek:
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 01:26:49
Post by: CPTBadAss on Sun, 15 June 2014, 01:27:52
In slightly less off-topic news, if you didn't know, Smallfry's favorite color was red. It would be cool to see that offered.
Post by: hwood34 on Sun, 15 June 2014, 01:28:35
Post by: Zeal on Sun, 15 June 2014, 01:33:01
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 01:34:05
Someone get vector purple for me. Please...i know. i asked. they can't do red :(
In slightly less off-topic news, if you didn't know, Smallfry's favorite color was red. It would be cool to see that offered.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 15 June 2014, 01:34:28
Someone get vector purple for me. Please...
:eek: I might do this...
Post by: Darkwell on Sun, 15 June 2014, 01:36:20
colors for initial perusal
Mmmmm all so pretty.... So hard to choose!
Post by: slickmamba on Sun, 15 June 2014, 02:08:50
Someone get vector purple for me. Please...
In slightly less off-topic news, if you didn't know, Smallfry's favorite color was red. It would be cool to see that offered.
I got you :) Purple is my choice
Post by: byker on Sun, 15 June 2014, 02:34:59
colors for initial perusal
That magenta is looking mighty fine.
Post by: wharrislv on Sun, 15 June 2014, 05:06:48
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 10:46:37
Post by: Vibex on Sun, 15 June 2014, 10:48:31
Post by: Yslen on Sun, 15 June 2014, 10:49:54
It'll be really hard to choose a colour, they all look so good :eek:
Post by: LechnerDE on Sun, 15 June 2014, 10:51:42
so, the deal is that we need 60 total pcs to get the pricing i quoted
How many orders are we off?
I haven't placed mine yet, because assembly service is still pending...
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 11:01:19
i would go with a contrasting color if you're planning on going granite. my personal favorite is a blue variant, but that's just me ;)
Post by: Vibex on Sun, 15 June 2014, 11:06:19
i would go with a contrasting color if you're planning on going granite. my personal favorite is a blue variant, but that's just me ;)I was thinking the Medium blue, but I wanted to hear other peoples opinions. A red would have been my first choice, but you said the company you are using can't do that. :'(
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 11:41:10
Post by: Thechemist on Sun, 15 June 2014, 12:05:08
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
**** IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THIS SERVICE PM ME SO THAT I CAN GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO PUT IN THE NOTES WHEN ORDERING THE KEYBOARD****
I have spoken with Mkawa and he will combine all the kits and ship them to me. I will then split that cost between the individuals, this way you will only pay shipping from me ( USA, Conus ) to you + the split cost of shipping to me instead of paying shipping twice ( Thank you Mkawa ).
If you don't have the switches, I can purchase them ( 50 pack ) from Mechanicalkeyboards for $29 including shipping
Colors available as of this post from MK
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
BLACK
GRAY
WHITE
CLEAR
Some of the switches will require me to convert them from PCB to plate by clipping the two legs off, this will not affect the switch in any way.
I can also do a ergo-clear mod if you purchase / send me the springs.
I am including free diodes / resistor / led on caps lock ( blue / red / purple ) / spacebar stabilizer / usb connector / usb cable for the teensy with the assembly, you will still need to buy a teensy 2.0 which will be offered later and your choice of switches from MK or the ones you want to send me.
Spots taken / available:
1. Vibex
2. GSimon
3. babyeatinwu
4. byker
5.
These will be assembled and sent out in the order of purchase.
There are still 1 spot open.
Post by: LechnerDE on Sun, 15 June 2014, 12:28:13
I am still very interested in one of those spots! I know you wanted to keep this CONUS only...
I am still waiting for a reply from Margo - it might make more sense to let him build mine in EU.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 12:29:40
Post by: Thechemist on Sun, 15 June 2014, 13:09:34
i think it makes a lot more sense for EU customers who want construction to go with margo
I agree.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 14:54:16
if you don't want anodizing, just don't add a note to your order.
Post by: Yslen on Sun, 15 June 2014, 15:13:16
p.s. Probably going light blue :D
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 15:18:09
please don't PM. i won't be able to sort out a mass of PMs.
if you can't edit your order notes, i'll probably put a google form together
Post by: Grendel on Sun, 15 June 2014, 15:19:38
Edit: heh, wrote the post while you were posting :)
Post by: Darkwell on Sun, 15 June 2014, 15:21:47
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 15:37:57
Post by: GSimon on Sun, 15 June 2014, 16:02:55
http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy)
Link doesn't work
mod edit: should work now
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 15 June 2014, 16:55:52
Post by: Vibex on Sun, 15 June 2014, 19:36:57
Post by: byker on Sun, 15 June 2014, 20:11:50
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
**** IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THIS SERVICE PM ME SO THAT I CAN GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO PUT IN THE NOTES WHEN ORDERING THE KEYBOARD****
I have spoken with Mkawa and he will combine all the kits and ship them to me. I will then split that cost between the individuals, this way you will only pay shipping from me ( USA, Conus ) to you + the split cost of shipping to me instead of paying shipping twice ( Thank you Mkawa ).
If you don't have the switches, I can purchase them ( 50 pack ) from Mechanicalkeyboards for $29 including shipping
Colors available as of this post from MK
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
BLACK
GRAY
WHITE
CLEAR
Some of the switches will require me to convert them from PCB to plate by clipping the two legs off, this will not affect the switch in any way.
I can also do a ergo-clear mod if you purchase / send me the springs.
I am including free diodes / resistor / led on caps lock ( blue / red / purple ) / spacebar stabilizer / usb connector / usb cable for the teensy with the assembly, you will still need to buy a teensy 2.0 which will be offered later and your choice of switches from MK or the ones you want to send me.Spots taken / available:
1. Vibex
2. GSimon
3. babyeatinwu
4.
5.
These will be assembled and sent out in the order of purchase.
There are still 2 spots open.
May I take a spot please? If you are willing to ship to Canada at my cost..
Post by: Thechemist on Sun, 15 June 2014, 20:20:57
-snip-
Quote
May I take a spot please? If you are willing to ship to Canada at my cost..
Sure, you have a PM.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 21:25:00
Will the plates with cutouts be andonized as well?yah, with few exceptions, there's no point sending those out before the rest of the kit goes out, so they can be dipped with everything else.
Post by: Grendel on Sun, 15 June 2014, 23:32:38
http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy)
Link doesn't work
Same here, no go.
mod edit: should work now
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 15 June 2014, 23:56:35
Post by: GSimon on Mon, 16 June 2014, 00:48:07
color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy)
Nice, went with Bronze for both plates. Hard to choose but I'll be good with that :D
Post by: cgbuen on Mon, 16 June 2014, 01:38:21
Post by: Zeal on Mon, 16 June 2014, 01:49:35
I'm being quite indecisive with the colours available right now. :))
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 16 June 2014, 02:06:09
of course, as always, the swatches are going to be ink on paper, and a very rough approximation of color anodized titanium
Post by: byker on Mon, 16 June 2014, 03:08:32
Post by: Latin00032 on Mon, 16 June 2014, 05:27:58
Post by: kakakowie on Mon, 16 June 2014, 06:22:37
Post by: Greeeg on Mon, 16 June 2014, 08:06:37
Where do you get the colour options?
There is a link at the bottom of the geekhackers.org product page.
Post by: zflamewing on Mon, 16 June 2014, 09:25:17
Where do you get the colour options?
There is also an image posted on page 6 of this thread with examples and names of the color options.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 16 June 2014, 11:47:05
Is the grey like, titanium grey? I assume so.yep
Post by: taylordcraig on Mon, 16 June 2014, 12:25:13
Post by: Yslen on Mon, 16 June 2014, 12:31:34
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 16 June 2014, 14:51:03
and if you don't specify an anodizing choice, yes, it will be unanodized
Post by: Yslen on Mon, 16 June 2014, 15:00:25
titanium grey is slightly darker than the raw titanium. since this is anodizing you'll still see the titanium grain though.
and if you don't specify an anodizing choice, yes, it will be unanodized
Fair enough then. Very excited about this kit now!
Post by: V1ral on Mon, 16 June 2014, 15:24:33
Post by: mashby on Mon, 16 June 2014, 15:32:56
I'm having such a hard picking colors. ;-;
Me too!
Post by: geniekid on Mon, 16 June 2014, 15:41:44
I'm having such a hard picking colors. ;-;
Me too!
Hard...time? On? Both?
Post by: V1ral on Mon, 16 June 2014, 15:45:30
I'm having such a hard picking colors. ;-;
Me too!
Hard...time? On? Both?
Yes hard time. Words are hard too.
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 16 June 2014, 15:49:39
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 16 June 2014, 16:53:36
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 16 June 2014, 17:13:14
Post by: zflamewing on Mon, 16 June 2014, 17:19:30
-Edited to actually get on the screen what I thought I was saying the first time.
Post by: GSimon on Mon, 16 June 2014, 17:29:02
This is seriously tempting especially with anodizing and bronze as an option to boot. 40% seems like a huge jump from full size though. I still am seriously jumping in for the cause if nothing else.
I need you to join as a fellow bronze supporter! :D
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 17 June 2014, 01:04:41
Post by: byker on Tue, 17 June 2014, 01:26:35
anyone know how to embed an image in a google form? XD
Insert, then select image? Then enter URL?
Post by: ranker on Tue, 17 June 2014, 05:36:26
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
**** IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THIS SERVICE PM ME SO THAT I CAN GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO PUT IN THE NOTES WHEN ORDERING THE KEYBOARD****
I have spoken with Mkawa and he will combine all the kits and ship them to me. I will then split that cost between the individuals, this way you will only pay shipping from me ( USA, Conus ) to you + the split cost of shipping to me instead of paying shipping twice ( Thank you Mkawa ).
If you don't have the switches, I can purchase them ( 50 pack ) from Mechanicalkeyboards for $29 including shipping
Colors available as of this post from MK
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
BLACK
GRAY
WHITE
CLEAR
Some of the switches will require me to convert them from PCB to plate by clipping the two legs off, this will not affect the switch in any way.
I can also do a ergo-clear mod if you purchase / send me the springs.
I am including free diodes / resistor / led on caps lock ( blue / red / purple ) / spacebar stabilizer / usb connector / usb cable for the teensy with the assembly, you will still need to buy a teensy 2.0 which will be offered later and your choice of switches from MK or the ones you want to send me.Spots taken / available:
1. Vibex
2. GSimon
3. babyeatinwu
4.
5.
These will be assembled and sent out in the order of purchase.
There are still 2 spots open.
May I take a spot please? If you are willing to ship to Canada at my cost..
Can I take the other spot if it's available? I scanned the thread, but it looked like #4 was the last request.
Post by: ranker on Tue, 17 June 2014, 05:41:37
Post by: zflamewing on Tue, 17 June 2014, 06:31:34
I'm a little confused, is this kit still able to be purchased?
As I understand it orders are still being taken. I should probably hop off the fence sooner than later to make sure I get one if I decide that path.
Post by: Thechemist on Tue, 17 June 2014, 16:47:27
Can I take the other spot if it's available? I scanned the thread, but it looked like #4 was the last request.
Done, all spots are taken now.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 17 June 2014, 17:02:51
purchase here http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/frontpage/products/jd40-jdcarpe-s-40-keyboard-kit-sorbothane-titanium-all-profits-go-to-the-nathan-j-walters-foundation-rip-smallfry
Post by: hashbaz on Wed, 18 June 2014, 01:18:02
Post by: Darkwell on Wed, 18 June 2014, 09:25:08
we're currently way under all the minimums. just too few respondents at this point.
If our selected colors don't reach MOQ, will we have the opportunity to change our order to select a color that did? Or will we just receive unanodized?
Thanks again for doing this! So excited :)
Post by: FrostyToast on Wed, 18 June 2014, 09:52:42
Post by: kakakowie on Wed, 18 June 2014, 10:12:56
Post by: zflamewing on Wed, 18 June 2014, 10:16:00
we're currently way under all the minimums. just too few respondents at this point.
If our selected colors don't reach MOQ, will we have the opportunity to change our order to select a color that did? Or will we just receive unanodized?
Thanks again for doing this! So excited :)
If I recall correctly those colors that do not reach MOQ will be asked to pick from the colors that did.
Post by: Darkwell on Wed, 18 June 2014, 12:49:46
we're currently way under all the minimums. just too few respondents at this point.
If our selected colors don't reach MOQ, will we have the opportunity to change our order to select a color that did? Or will we just receive unanodized?
Thanks again for doing this! So excited :)
If I recall correctly those colors that do not reach MOQ will be asked to pick from the colors that did.
OK great! Thanks for the help. Still hoping people jump on board for the purple though!
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 18 June 2014, 13:23:51
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 18 June 2014, 13:30:18
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 18 June 2014, 13:35:38
Post by: Melvang on Wed, 18 June 2014, 13:40:24
dark blue, titan gray, and vector purple are currently leading, with about 35% of current orders responding. have to say, good taste.
Where does raw titanium fall at?
Post by: nuclearsandwich on Wed, 18 June 2014, 13:40:55
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 18 June 2014, 13:46:14
dark blue, titan gray, and vector purple are currently leading, with about 35% of current orders responding. have to say, good taste.
Where does raw titanium fall at?
well, with only 35% response, i guess you could say that it's leading the pack ;)
Post by: Lurch on Wed, 18 June 2014, 13:53:27
Post by: taylordcraig on Wed, 18 June 2014, 14:10:03
[I almost want to get another one so I can have two colors and two types of switches...]
Post by: Melvang on Wed, 18 June 2014, 14:10:44
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 18 June 2014, 19:52:39
dark blue, titan gray, and vector purple are currently leading, with about 35% of current orders responding. have to say, good taste.
If I want a color that doesn't end up getting the required support, what's the price to buy it out and make sure it happens? My vector purple is doing great, but I'm only interested in that top color if I can also get the bottom to be aqua.
Post by: GSimon on Wed, 18 June 2014, 20:11:50
dark blue, titan gray, and vector purple are currently leading, with about 35% of current orders responding. have to say, good taste.
If I want a color that doesn't end up getting the required support, what's the price to buy it out and make sure it happens? My vector purple is doing great, but I'm only interested in that top color if I can also get the bottom to be aqua.
Same goes for me (and 2 others possibly) and bronze!
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 18 June 2014, 21:18:22
(http://anodizetitanium.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/medical-anodizing-type-2-titanium-parts-300x275.jpg)
their type II might be a little lighter from the images, but that's the basic idea.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 18 June 2014, 21:21:05
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 18 June 2014, 21:43:12
line item minimum is 35$ for colors, 90$ for titan gray. titan gray is actually a different type of anodize that hardens the titanium surface (color anodizing requires an extremely quick dip as the color changes over a period of seconds). here's an example of a type II titan gray anodize:Show Image(http://anodizetitanium.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/medical-anodizing-type-2-titanium-parts-300x275.jpg)
their type II might be a little lighter from the images, but that's the basic idea.
****, only $35 bucks? I'm totally in if that's all it will cost to get the color I want. :thumb:
Post by: GSimon on Wed, 18 June 2014, 21:49:04
****, only $35 bucks? I'm totally in if that's all it will cost to get the color I want. :thumb:
Likewise, bronze all the way!
Post by: byker on Thu, 19 June 2014, 00:17:00
personally, i have to say i'd go for a green/seafoam combo. man that seafoam looks good
Can I go in and redo the google doc? I am having second guesses on the colour choice I made haha
Post by: zflamewing on Thu, 19 June 2014, 06:52:25
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 19 June 2014, 07:25:19
you should be able to edit your answerpersonally, i have to say i'd go for a green/seafoam combo. man that seafoam looks good
Can I go in and redo the google doc? I am having second guesses on the colour choice I made haha
Post by: zeroni13 on Thu, 19 June 2014, 07:52:29
So that brings me to the question:
This supports LED's in all the keys right? And the two extra holes on the CAPS key is for the CAPS indicator if I'm not mistaken.
Just have to double check before I actually order the 440 LED's.
Post by: Greeeg on Thu, 19 June 2014, 08:55:09
Just have to double check before I actually order the 440 LED's.
You'd have alot left over! There are only 40 keys on the PCB!!
Also sadly, The PCB only supports the capslock LED. (Going from the image of the PCB on the product page, none of the LED spots are connected.)
Post by: zeroni13 on Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:06:42
The point was that I bought two boards, 40+40=80. So the 440 Was 4x110 packs with Orange, White, Green and Red LED's. Still alot left over, but I would be able to have two board in the same color or with different colors.Just have to double check before I actually order the 440 LED's.
You'd have alot left over! There are only 40 keys on the PCB!!
Also sadly, The PCB only supports the capslock LED. (Going from the image of the PCB on the product page, none of the LED spots are connected.)
I could in theory just solder all the LED's and connect them manually right?
Because it would look so bad ass wtih LED's and the MAX keyboards transculent black keycaps witch I was going to buy.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:16:59
Quote
I could in theory just solder all the LED's and connect them manually right?yep!
Because it would look so bad ass wtih LED's and the MAX keyboards transculent black keycaps witch I was going to buy.
i would ask jdcarpe though to make sure that the holes aren't already connected. if they are though, it's not a huge deal to run power to each LED, and the sorbothane gasket will hide all of your hookup wire on the bottom of the board.
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:35:27
And you are correct in that the caps lock indicator are the adjacent holes to the LED holes in that one switch position.
Post by: Melvang on Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:41:08
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:43:22
Post by: Melvang on Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:53:56
the smallfry board won't output SDL aka PS2, so that wouldn't really be possible
I was thinking just hand wire it to the plug. Or is there a built in active adapter in there somewhere that would need to be bypassed?
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 19 June 2014, 10:15:45
Post by: Zeal on Thu, 19 June 2014, 17:19:12
Does the colour fade/lighten/gets fingerprints easily like brushed aluminum?
The only piece of anodized titanium I have is a small wrench I got from massdrop. The blue was really vivid upon receiving it, but after touching it a couple times, it seems to have faded into a gray-blue. Was my Ti wrench just poorly anodized?
Picture example:
Top half- Barely touched, still blue at the edge
Sides - Noticeable fading
Bottom half - Rubbed my finger on it a couple times, and started "fading".
(http://i.imgur.com/b4vk4g9.jpg)
Post by: Yslen on Thu, 19 June 2014, 19:02:25
Question about anodizing Titanium:
Does the colour fade/lighten/gets fingerprints easily like brushed aluminum?
The only piece of anodized titanium I have is a small wrench I got from massdrop. The blue was really vivid upon receiving it, but after touching it a couple times, it seems to have faded into a gray-blue. Was my Ti wrench just poorly anodized?
Picture example:
Top half- Barely touched, still blue at the edge
Sides - Noticeable fading
Bottom half - Rubbed my finger on it a couple times, and started "fading".Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b4vk4g9.jpg)
Yikes. I'd definitely like some more information on anodized titanium having seen that... :/
Post by: Zeal on Thu, 19 June 2014, 19:22:26
It may be that my wrench was just poorly anodized. Since I don't have anything else to compare it to, I just wanted to hear mkawa reply/another member's experience with anodizing Ti.
Post by: Spopepro on Thu, 19 June 2014, 21:39:39
The best thing about titanium is that you could take that part and anodize it at a higher voltage and change the color (after you clean it, of course).
Post by: Grendel on Fri, 20 June 2014, 01:26:00
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 June 2014, 07:48:07
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 June 2014, 08:57:08
Post by: mashby on Fri, 20 June 2014, 10:35:45
I ended up going with Titan Grey since I think that will go best with the Honey 40 (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Round_5#HONEY.2FFORTY_.2840_percent_kit_.7C_.2429.29) set that I bought for it. However, even as I type this, I'm flip-flopping on going with Dark Blue, or just flip back to raw. :roll eyes:
Anyone else getting a Round 5 set for this board? If so, what did you choose?
Post by: Yslen on Fri, 20 June 2014, 11:15:14
Post by: jdcarpe on Fri, 20 June 2014, 11:40:29
Post by: Yslen on Fri, 20 June 2014, 11:41:21
Post by: V1ral on Fri, 20 June 2014, 12:03:55
Post by: nuclearsandwich on Fri, 20 June 2014, 12:16:15
I finally went with seafoam (for now) because that's the one I keep coming back to. Also titan gray for the bottom, because I can pick two colors so wynaut.
Seafoam!
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 June 2014, 12:31:10
Post by: Zeal on Fri, 20 June 2014, 13:35:43
as spopepro said, you're not rubbing the oxide layer off. you're just getting it dirty.
Thanks spopepro & mkawa for the info. You mentioned that titan gray actually harden the Titanium even more, and is a different process? Is it more resistant to natural body oils/fingerprints (not sure how many Volts is required for titan gray)?
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 June 2014, 16:41:10
i actually don't know how this differs from color anodizing of titanium. color anodizing is just very minor variations of TiO2 layer thicknesses. very very minor. i've talked at length before about the refractory nature of titanium surfaces. the characteristic silver-gray color of titanium is due to the sparseness of titanium crystals and a thin oxide layer that forms on the surface (titanium oxidized _extremely_ quickly). increasing the thickness causes the refractory behavior to differ with wavelength even more. hence, color!
type II anodization, if it's anything like aluminum anodization, may just be a very thick layer of TiO2. this could explain why it's very matte and non-reflective.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 June 2014, 16:41:39
http://mrtitanium.com/interference.html
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 June 2014, 16:54:55
that's out of EIGHTY
Post by: Yslen on Fri, 20 June 2014, 17:24:00
titan gray is a a titanium type II anodize. http://www.danco.net/PDF-DOWNLOADS/ADVANTAGES.pdf
i actually don't know how this differs from color anodizing of titanium. color anodizing is just very minor variations of TiO2 layer thicknesses. very very minor. i've talked at length before about the refractory nature of titanium surfaces. the characteristic silver-gray color of titanium is due to the sparseness of titanium crystals and a thin oxide layer that forms on the surface (titanium oxidized _extremely_ quickly). increasing the thickness causes the refractory behavior to differ with wavelength even more. hence, color!
type II anodization, if it's anything like aluminum anodization, may just be a very thick layer of TiO2. this could explain why it's very matte and non-reflective.
Wow, cool, so it's diffraction? I didn't know that :D
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 June 2014, 18:14:04
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 June 2014, 18:14:32
Post by: Heliosphere on Sun, 22 June 2014, 19:23:25
Post by: kakakowie on Mon, 23 June 2014, 05:58:23
yep. that's the huge difference between titanium anodizing and aluminum anodizing, and the incredibly unique look of anodized titanium. to color anodize aluminum, you oxidize a layer and then before the crystals form, you trap dye into the layer. dye is a boring way to color. wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)
That is indeed exciting. I've never heard of it before. But I don't think there is any dye trapped at all. More info here (http://"http://mrtitanium.com/interference.html")
It's a matter of interference and the colour is dependent on the thickness of the oxide layer.
(http://www.themarysue.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/roflbot-Pve1-580x332.jpg)
Post by: Greeeg on Mon, 23 June 2014, 06:13:19
yep. that's the huge difference between titanium anodizing and aluminum anodizing, and the incredibly unique look of anodized titanium. to color anodize aluminum, you oxidize a layer and then before the crystals form, you trap dye into the layer. dye is a boring way to color. wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)It's a matter of interference and the colour is dependent on the thickness of the oxide layer.
Yes, the physics behind it is wave cancellation.
wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)Which is indeed very exciting!
I've never had titanium anodized before, does it change the texture of the surface like Anodizing aluminum does?
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 23 June 2014, 11:37:35
I sort of want one of these, but I really don't have much money right now. How long do you think these will last mkawa?at the current rate, i would guess a couple more weeks.
Post by: zflamewing on Mon, 23 June 2014, 11:57:53
yep. that's the huge difference between titanium anodizing and aluminum anodizing, and the incredibly unique look of anodized titanium. to color anodize aluminum, you oxidize a layer and then before the crystals form, you trap dye into the layer. dye is a boring way to color. wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)It's a matter of interference and the colour is dependent on the thickness of the oxide layer.
Yes, the physics behind it is wave cancellation.
wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)Which is indeed very exciting!
I've never had titanium anodized before, does it change the texture of the surface like Anodizing aluminum does?
It sounds like the colors other than grey go through a similar process to what TI jewelery for piercings do so no it has the same texture as polished.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 23 June 2014, 16:20:29
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 24 June 2014, 10:07:57
here's a particularly awesome example of titanium anodizing, courtesy boilermaker:
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1600VIB-Rainbow-Pocket-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9U4/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1403623283&sr=1-3&keywords=kershaw+chive
Post by: Yslen on Tue, 24 June 2014, 12:17:52
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 24 June 2014, 12:43:17
Post by: wharrislv on Tue, 24 June 2014, 19:51:47
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 25 June 2014, 04:30:31
i can do that. please place an order an put "no pcb" in your notes. i'll refund you for the cost of the pcb :)
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 26 June 2014, 20:26:30
Post by: Lurch on Fri, 27 June 2014, 07:45:38
i almost have a full prototype. just waiting on the gasket samples now.
;D ;D ;D :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 27 June 2014, 20:52:16
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 27 June 2014, 21:07:04
also, in total number of orders, we're just at the border of using the last two sheets of plate. again, please let your friends and other buds know about this GB. things get a bit tricky if i can't populate those last two sheets.
that said, orders are not stagnant at all, and i've had a lot of contact with people who aren't familiar with geekhack but are ordering the kit. so maybe it's more of a "keep up the good work! we're almost there!" rather than otherwise
one more thing: titan gray is over MOQ and is probably the most popular. vector purple is also going crazy. nice job! i think these colors are going to look amazing on this board.
Post by: Zeal on Fri, 27 June 2014, 21:22:32
Post by: byker on Fri, 27 June 2014, 21:24:55
i'm looking over the anodizing spreadsheet and in total number of items, we're just barely over MOQ for our quoted pricing, regardless of color. i would very much appreciate it if you could prod your friends to fill out the form, even if it's just to say that they prefer raw titan. we have about 20 orders with no entry at the moment.
also, in total number of orders, we're just at the border of using the last two sheets of plate. again, please let your friends and other buds know about this GB. things get a bit tricky if i can't populate those last two sheets.
that said, orders are not stagnant at all, and i've had a lot of contact with people who aren't familiar with geekhack but are ordering the kit. so maybe it's more of a "keep up the good work! we're almost there!" rather than otherwise
one more thing: titan gray is over MOQ and is probably the most popular. vector purple is also going crazy. nice job! i think these colors are going to look amazing on this board.
Just an idea.. But can you send out an email to everyone that bought it on geekhackers? Maybe some people haven't been on the thread a lot, and that could be an easy way to reach them.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 27 June 2014, 21:27:35
Post by: byker on Fri, 27 June 2014, 22:46:47
i don't do email-direct marketing via geekhackers. our privacy policy specifically states that we will not bombard you with newsletters if you make a purchase. there is no opt-in. everyone is opted-out of direct marketing.
Oh, that is kind of unfortunate because it isn't marketing! It's a free gift from our gracious organizer! Haha
Post by: GSimon on Fri, 27 June 2014, 23:04:42
i don't do email-direct marketing via geekhackers. our privacy policy specifically states that we will not bombard you with newsletters if you make a purchase. there is no opt-in. everyone is opted-out of direct marketing.
Really looking forward to the board! If MOQ doesn't make it for bronze which at this point seems likely please consider allowing those who would wish to pay (me!) additional costs for the color of our choice. If possible of course.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 28 June 2014, 00:08:48
Post by: byker on Sat, 28 June 2014, 00:17:25
bronze isn't that far away from making line item minimum. oddly, the most endangered colors right now are the ones that i thought would be the most popular. the blues are kind of fragmented, and there's a single lone green plate right now (although quite a few seafoams, so i have to approve there).
How is magenta??
Post by: Lingj on Sat, 28 June 2014, 02:14:11
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sat, 28 June 2014, 08:58:32
i don't do email-direct marketing via geekhackers. our privacy policy specifically states that we will not bombard you with newsletters if you make a purchase. there is no opt-in. everyone is opted-out of direct marketing.
Isn't this more of a "product update" though? The email would only go out to people who purchased this kit, and it's really a clarification on this specific buy, not information about other things. I see it in the same vein as a shipping update, a very welcome email.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 28 June 2014, 10:05:26
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 28 June 2014, 10:05:47
didn't see many magentasbronze isn't that far away from making line item minimum. oddly, the most endangered colors right now are the ones that i thought would be the most popular. the blues are kind of fragmented, and there's a single lone green plate right now (although quite a few seafoams, so i have to approve there).
How is magenta??
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sat, 28 June 2014, 10:08:10
:thumb:
mkawa's growin' a goatee!
Post by: slickmamba on Sat, 28 June 2014, 10:10:06
edit: nvm, its a polyurethane.
Post by: snoopy on Sat, 28 June 2014, 10:25:32
Post by: Zeal on Sat, 28 June 2014, 12:20:19
Post by: byker on Sat, 28 June 2014, 12:56:55
Just watched the video, and now I'm even more excited!
Video was great! Super excited! When are you going to build that one up Kawa?
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 28 June 2014, 14:24:02
Post by: tbc on Sat, 28 June 2014, 17:05:54
as spopepro said, you're not rubbing the oxide layer off. you're just getting it dirty.
just clean it with damp rag? no special technique/chemicals needed right?
i said raw titanium originally, but i just went back to the default form link and changed it to gold. it's just an overwrite right?
ps can you let me know if gold isn't going to make MOQ. I REALLY want gold.
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Sat, 28 June 2014, 22:43:58
ps can you let me know if gold isn't going to make MOQ. I REALLY want gold.
heh, finally saw someone wanting gold as well! :D I just changed my preference to gold from vector purple for the 2 plates. ;)
I'm going to go for a red/gold combination. What about you?
Post by: tbc on Sun, 29 June 2014, 01:05:39
i'm doing a gold and black everythang theme :)
i would never be able to decide on another color and THEN decide which color goes on top.
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Sun, 29 June 2014, 02:22:20
haha, just gold gold.
i'm doing a gold and black everythang theme :)
i would never be able to decide on another color and THEN decide which color goes on top.
oh oh, i meant gold plates, for top and bottom. and maybe red keys? :p
Post by: Lurch on Sun, 29 June 2014, 11:01:03
Wow. I'm gonna have to make this my first build. Wish me luck.
Luck! As I'll be right there with you. ;-)
Post by: IMHB on Sun, 29 June 2014, 19:36:49
There's a problem for my order....please check your PM, thanks!
Hank
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 29 June 2014, 20:30:11
i had another unfortunate incident with my car last night. and ended up spending the night on the shoulder of the 405 waiting 5 hours for a tow. i'll get to the polish and build, but i need transportation first. oof, again. in other news i'm an idiot. these two facts may be related.
in other news, i'm asking the sorbothane people if they can coat the gaskets so they're not so sticky.
Post by: Delete on Sun, 29 June 2014, 20:56:56
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 29 June 2014, 21:07:38
bumpwat
Post by: taylordcraig on Sun, 29 June 2014, 22:39:19
PM sent to you, IMHB.
i had another unfortunate incident with my car last night. and ended up spending the night on the shoulder of the 405 waiting 5 hours for a tow. i'll get to the polish and build, but i need transportation first. oof, again. in other news i'm an idiot. these two facts may be related.
in other news, i'm asking the sorbothane people if they can coat the gaskets so they're not so sticky.
Haha! At least you're okay! Mind divulging some details?
Post by: stoic-lemon on Mon, 30 June 2014, 06:26:38
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Mon, 30 June 2014, 08:12:12
Post by: mashby on Mon, 30 June 2014, 17:28:31
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 01 July 2014, 09:06:13
loose extra pcbs may be available _after_ initial fullfilment. that is, IF you screw up, if there are PCBs left, we can provide you with one. if you want to guarantee an extra pcb, please consider some component of the LTS set. (doesn't have to be the iron if you already have one!)
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 01 July 2014, 15:17:53
Post by: byker on Tue, 01 July 2014, 15:24:38
material has landed at the grinder. will be done before the 4th, and cutting will hopefully start next week.
;D ;D
Post by: Lurch on Tue, 01 July 2014, 15:34:34
Post by: Ceedog on Thu, 03 July 2014, 01:47:48
Post by: Ceedog on Thu, 03 July 2014, 01:48:34
Post by: Jixr on Thu, 03 July 2014, 11:56:30
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 03 July 2014, 12:07:06
so to confirm, we need this kit, a Teensy, and switches and caps to complete the build?
And one of these (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=WM17115-ND&x=9&y=20&formaction=on), and one of these (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1JMK0O).
Well, if you don't want to attach your USB cable directly to the Teensy, anyway. :)
Post by: Jixr on Thu, 03 July 2014, 14:17:49
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 03 July 2014, 20:09:10
Post by: tbc on Thu, 03 July 2014, 21:03:51
Post by: Ceedog on Thu, 03 July 2014, 23:49:51
so to confirm, we need this kit, a Teensy, and switches and caps to complete the build?
And one of these (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=WM17115-ND&x=9&y=20&formaction=on), and one of these (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1JMK0O).
Well, if you don't want to attach your USB cable directly to the Teensy, anyway. :)
Wait, is the male end necessary for connecting the Teensy to the PCB? And is it really surface mount? Also, what's the thing (resistor? diode?) that goes next to the caps lock key? It looks significantly different than the other diodes.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 04 July 2014, 00:17:54
once realistic pricing is determined for the teensies, i will put them up as a pre-order on the geekhackers store. however, don't expect a massive discount over PJRC's prices. i am going to assume that a number of people will not need teensies, and PJRC's volume pricing doesn't become significant until you hit thousands of units. The major benefit of us carrying teensies is that shipping can be combined, particularly for international customers.
also, thanks everyone who has entered their color preferences. we have somewhere around 80% of orders giving color choices, which are fantastic numbers.
as for lead-time from here, i was hoping to ship in two weeks, but that's definitely not going to happen. bubbles bursting, apologies, etc. just from the extra step of anodizing, we're looking at at least 2 extra weeks of lead-time from what i predicted. in addition, gasket production has not started (we just figured out how to fine-tune production to negate the stickiness issue i mentioned in the latest video). gasket production is most likely going to be the long pole due to the number of orders i had predicted when we produced the gasket tooling, and the extra coating step is going to further increase lead-time.
that said, i have parts for a full prototype on hand and i WILL have the first prototype sample at keycon. it will be raw titanium, and a bit sticky, but gosh darnit, it's going to be a smallfry :)
Post by: byker on Fri, 04 July 2014, 00:52:24
Post by: IMHB on Fri, 04 July 2014, 19:36:20
Well, now all I need to do is to wait for my 1st all-golden keyboard....
Post by: jdcarpe on Fri, 04 July 2014, 21:07:48
Wait, is the male end necessary for connecting the Teensy to the PCB? And is it really surface mount? Also, what's the thing (resistor? diode?) that goes next to the caps lock key? It looks significantly different than the other diodes.
If you don't want to plug the USB cable directly into the Teensy, which is located on the underside of the PCB under the spacebar, then yes, you need that part. You need to solder four wires to it (don't know why they call it surface mount), and solder those into four holes with solder pads in that vicinity on the PCB. Traces run from there to the solder points for the through hole USB receptacle on the rear edge of the PCB.
None of the switches have traces for LED backlighting, except for the "caps lock" switch location. The holes next to the LED holes have the traces for the indicator LED, so if you want a Caps Lock indicator, you need to bridge the LED solder points to the adjacent pads.
Post by: tbc on Fri, 04 July 2014, 21:56:37
DONE ORDERING!
Well, now all I need to do is to wait for my 1st all-golden keyboard....
???
doesn't count until you get mx golds :p
Post by: fatchoi on Fri, 04 July 2014, 23:39:49
just go on the site and order. it'll show you the prices
Thanks. Just ordered. I'm hoping to buy the plate mounted stab and Teensy as well, to save some shipping cost.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 05 July 2014, 00:20:14
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 05 July 2014, 00:29:19
if you don't see your order number there and you have a preference that is NOT raw titanium, please fill out the form.
unfortunately, this isn't a projection of the response spreadsheet, so it won't update as responses come in. however, i will be syncing it fairly often.
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 05 July 2014, 00:49:25
if you don't see your order number there and you have a preference that is NOT raw titanium, please fill out the form.
.
So is filling this out like placing an order, or just a representation of your opinion?
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 05 July 2014, 01:14:54
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/frontpage/products/jd40-jdcarpe-s-40-keyboard-kit-sorbothane-titanium-all-profits-go-to-the-nathan-j-walters-foundation-rip-smallfry
2) fill out this form to specify your preferences for the color of _your_ kit
http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy
Post by: tbc on Sat, 05 July 2014, 02:26:41
any chance of sourcing some of those too?
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 05 July 2014, 02:27:11
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 05 July 2014, 03:33:53
i'm currently working on sourcing costar stabilizers. JD and i previously talked about teensies, and will probably revisit it on tuesday. i should be able to put a listing up at that point. unfortunately, i may go a bit dark on this for a little while. i am out of town until tuesday. the cutters will start work on their end of production around mid or late-week, and we will have to coordinate a few things for the day or so i'm in town to make sure our design can be cut using the method we formulated. the end of week is keycon, so while you'll be seeing plenty of me on the forum and the livestream, i'll be busy with that.
Great to hear. Coz it's often difficult to source one stab, without sourcing a whole set of 5 or 7.
Btw, I saw a few bronze people here. I opt for bronze too :D
Post by: tbc on Sat, 05 July 2014, 03:58:30
originally raw, but changed my mind to gold.
mind is still on gold :)
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 05 July 2014, 08:28:17
None of the switches have traces for LED backlighting, except for the "caps lock" switch location. The holes next to the LED holes have the traces for the indicator LED, so if you want a Caps Lock indicator, you need to bridge the LED solder points to the adjacent pads.
[/quote]
Thanks for clearing the USB part up; just ordered those connectors. I'm still confused about the thing near the caps lock key, specifically this (http://i.imgur.com/4YKvain.png) component. What is it, do I need it, and where can I buy it?
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 05 July 2014, 08:33:01
Thanks for clearing the USB part up; just ordered those connectors. I'm still confused about the thing near the caps lock key, specifically thisShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4YKvain.png)component. What is it, do I need it, and where can I buy it?
Ah, that's a resistor for the LED. You can get one at Radio Shack. :)
Or from Mouser, Digi-Key, etc. I typically use a 300-ohm 1/4-watt carbon film resistor there.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 05 July 2014, 11:25:06
Well I already ordered, I'm just wondering if I should vote for what I want or what I'll get. I.E., I want Titan Gray, but I'm not sure it's worth $90 to me.anodizing will not cost anything more. it's an option that is covered by your purchase costs. there is an issue with some colors not meeting MOQ, but titan gray is way way over the MOQ, so no worries there. just fill out the form and specify titan gray and you're good to go!
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 05 July 2014, 12:01:13
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 05 July 2014, 12:08:56
brass and bronze is also an option, but i have to make sure i can get 100 packs of those.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 05 July 2014, 12:09:55
Post by: Zeal on Sat, 05 July 2014, 13:00:48
by the way, unless there's a lot of preference in another direction, i'm going to go with socket head cap screws. imo they look the best.
This type:
(https://littlemachineshop.com/Products/Images/480/480.1527.jpg)
or flush against the plate type?
(http://2.imimg.com/data2/BC/YB/MY-3804794/hexagon-socket-head-cap-screw-250x250.jpg)
I personally prefer flush screws, as it makes it easier to clean the case.
Post by: mashby on Sat, 05 July 2014, 13:07:41
Post by: Melvang on Sat, 05 July 2014, 13:12:49
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 05 July 2014, 15:31:50
Post by: SL89 on Sat, 05 July 2014, 16:33:38
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 05 July 2014, 17:59:45
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 05 July 2014, 23:00:47
by the way, unless there's a lot of preference in another direction, i'm going to go with socket head cap screws. imo they look the best.
That's cool. Black screw :thumb:
Do you guys think + screw or hex screw matters?
Fall in love for hex recently, just think it looks better over - or +. Anyway, color's the first priority. :D
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Sat, 05 July 2014, 23:08:13
Wait, is the male end necessary for connecting the Teensy to the PCB? And is it really surface mount? Also, what's the thing (resistor? diode?) that goes next to the caps lock key? It looks significantly different than the other diodes.
If you don't want to plug the USB cable directly into the Teensy, which is located on the underside of the PCB under the spacebar, then yes, you need that part. You need to solder four wires to it (don't know why they call it surface mount), and solder those into four holes with solder pads in that vicinity on the PCB. Traces run from there to the solder points for the through hole USB receptacle on the rear edge of the PCB.
None of the switches have traces for LED backlighting, except for the "caps lock" switch location. The holes next to the LED holes have the traces for the indicator LED, so if you want a Caps Lock indicator, you need to bridge the LED solder points to the adjacent pads.
Regarding the USB part, I did a search and realised that the pins are in reverse orientation for Mini-USB and Micro-USB. So theoretically it will be possible to use http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1JMK0O (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1JMK0O) and solder them in reverse orientation to the four holes and solder a Micro-USB at the USB receptacle at the rear end?
IMO, microUSB are easier to come by, and for the convenience sake, some people might want to have it as a choice. What do you guys think? (:
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5d/Types-usb_th1.svg/200px-Types-usb_th1.svg.png)
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 05 July 2014, 23:21:58
IMO, microUSB are easier to come by, and for the convenience sake, some people might want to have it as a choice. What do you guys think? (:
Maybe if you can find a Micro-B receptacle with the same footprint as the through hole Mini-B receptacle I specified.
Post by: Zeal on Sun, 06 July 2014, 00:17:35
Also+1 to hex screws.
I'm not quite sure what the special names for these are...
(http://www.los168.com/upload/20101105/20101105163452746.jpg)
+
(http://img2.en.china.cn/0/2_112_29032_450_327.jpg)
Have the second picture type screws on the top, and hide the hex screws on the bottom?
Post by: tbc on Sun, 06 July 2014, 00:35:18
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 06 July 2014, 01:38:12
hmm, if countersunk screws aren't possible, then what about something like this? Small dimple for the screws + almost flush to the plate (Keeping the screw as low profile as possible, so cleaning the plate is still doable)
Also+1 to hex screws.
I'm not quite sure what the special names for these are...Show Image(http://www.los168.com/upload/20101105/20101105163452746.jpg)
+Show Image(http://img2.en.china.cn/0/2_112_29032_450_327.jpg)
Have the second picture type screws on the top, and hide the hex screws on the bottom?
Dimpling requires special tooling which again will add to the cost. All the tooling that I have personally seen for doing dimpling is all done by hand. Now imagine doing that to 160 plates with 6 holes a plate. No thanks.
Post by: Zeal on Sun, 06 July 2014, 02:46:54
Unless I'm mistaken, to use those screws properly, wouldn't it only require 6 holes drilled at the correct size? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 06 July 2014, 03:04:33
hmm, if countersunk screws aren't possible, then what about something like this? Small dimple for the screws + almost flush to the plate (Keeping the screw as low profile as possible, so cleaning the plate is still doable)
Also+1 to hex screws.
I'm not quite sure what the special names for these are...Show Image(http://www.los168.com/upload/20101105/20101105163452746.jpg)
+Show Image(http://img2.en.china.cn/0/2_112_29032_450_327.jpg)
Have the second picture type screws on the top, and hide the hex screws on the bottom?
I've just found a page which we might refer to ;P
http://steampunk.wonderhowto.com/how-to/nuts-and-bolts-steampunk-using-right-screws-for-job-0143074/
I guess hex might be easier to clean as the hole is larger
(http://img.wonderhowto.com/img/original/95/34/63497736798281/0/634977367982819534.jpg)
I agree with you that we might have the "d" style. Though IMO "a" style looks cool too. Just don't like rounded screws, lol.
(http://img.wonderhowto.com/img/original/77/83/63497736812446/0/634977368124467783.jpg)
Post by: tbc on Sun, 06 July 2014, 03:07:35
Post by: Ceedog on Sun, 06 July 2014, 06:44:22
Post by: docwlad on Sun, 06 July 2014, 11:00:37
Edit/Request:
Post by: docwlad on Sun, 06 July 2014, 21:46:04
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.note that margo is in the EU
I will offer the same in the US. Located fairly central in Iowa. I would like to note this would just be the physical assembly. I don't have enough experience in the software side to feel comfortable doing firmware.
This offer still open? I'd love to take you up on it.
Post by: dorkvader on Mon, 07 July 2014, 00:39:07
I think panhead / domehead look nice.
ofcourse since I still haven't ordered one I guess I can't vote.
You can see them in my photo set for the metaldox here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
especially https://flic.kr/p/nBAVEd
Post by: fatchoi on Mon, 07 July 2014, 00:52:12
I just used countersink screws in normal holes on my metaldox, and it worked out really well. They stick up a bit but it's not bad. Those screws ming likes are nice, but they stick up a lot off the plate: not for everyone.
I think panhead / domehead look nice.
ofcourse since I still haven't ordered one I guess I can't vote.
You can see them in my photo set for the metaldox here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
especially https://flic.kr/p/nBAVEd
Thanks for the pic. Screws facing upward, hm... I prefer the other way round, so a countersink screw doesn't work quite well. "pan" is my favorite, after looking at different pics further. :D
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 09 July 2014, 00:47:19
here are two options that look pretty reasonable:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9i5k
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9ijt
otherwise i would lean toward full size cap head or regular old pan-head machine screws.
Post by: Zeal on Wed, 09 July 2014, 00:55:27
trusses are generally too wide
here are two options that look pretty reasonable:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9i5k
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9ijt
otherwise i would lean toward full size cap head or regular old pan-head machine screws.
Is it me or do both those link to a general page full of diff screws?
Post by: GSimon on Wed, 09 July 2014, 01:00:29
Is it me or do both those link to a general page full of diff screws?
Not just you. What's interesting too if if you keep hitting Enter on the address bar the URL changes each refresh.
Post by: dorkvader on Wed, 09 July 2014, 12:49:38
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 09 July 2014, 14:00:01
small hex head is actually a good option too.
anyway, just a heads up. there are maybe 17? units left in this batch, and orders are starting to pick up again. if you are on the fence, i'd suggest getting off of it mighty quick :P
Post by: bboyer on Thu, 10 July 2014, 13:14:24
Post by: nuclearsandwich on Thu, 10 July 2014, 14:22:13
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pdhBq2rSb04/TyvpfCPu-cI/AAAAAAAAAk0/fo0zmxfgi3s/s1600/suspense.jpg)
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 10 July 2014, 19:16:06
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
Bronze Bronze yeah. I'm imagining elegant it would look with black screw.
Btw, has bronze met the moq? ;)
Post by: SL89 on Fri, 11 July 2014, 12:11:15
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 12 July 2014, 02:49:35
Post by: zeroni13 on Sat, 12 July 2014, 03:24:13
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 15 July 2014, 11:04:12
Post by: SL89 on Thu, 17 July 2014, 12:07:08
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 17 July 2014, 12:14:05
next step is getting the titan cut to spec by the way. everything depends on this, so JD and i will be checking this very closely.
Post by: SL89 on Thu, 17 July 2014, 12:16:04
there are 15 left, and i've been getting appx an order every other day, so you should be good
next step is getting the titan cut to spec by the way. everything depends on this, so JD and i will be checking this very closely.
thank you for that update mkawa
Post by: byker on Thu, 17 July 2014, 14:41:30
there are 15 left, and i've been getting appx an order every other day, so you should be good
next step is getting the titan cut to spec by the way. everything depends on this, so JD and i will be checking this very closely.
Sweet. Did you manage to build one up at Keycon? Would love to see some pics! :p
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 17 July 2014, 15:32:42
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 17 July 2014, 15:37:53
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 17 July 2014, 19:22:12
Post by: dustinhxc on Fri, 18 July 2014, 00:49:43
Post by: Vibex on Fri, 18 July 2014, 07:08:04
Wait, Vibex has the sorbothane gasket in his? Need pics nao :)I'll get a photo as soon as I can, but I have a very busy weekend. Not sure when I'll be able to get one.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Fri, 18 July 2014, 09:35:25
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 18 July 2014, 15:09:51
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 18 July 2014, 15:10:09
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Fri, 18 July 2014, 23:35:02
most likely it will be just the pcb
What you're saying is that if I order the GB, it'll only be the PCB?
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 18 July 2014, 23:38:44
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Fri, 18 July 2014, 23:40:58
PCB, plates and fasteners.
Hopefully, this is the last question: "We will be adding the bill of materials for additional parts needed to complete the kit", can you give me a ballpark estimate of what the total cost will be, not including keycaps + switches? Thanks.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 19 July 2014, 09:53:50
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 19 July 2014, 09:56:51
Post by: tahuds on Sun, 20 July 2014, 09:58:05
Edit: Also, will there be some sort of tutorial like the Massdrop folks did for the Ergo so that beginners can take a swing at souldering their own? What about how many of each keycap do we need?
Post by: hashbaz on Sun, 20 July 2014, 23:17:58
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
Changed my vote to bronze/bronze as well. Sounds classy. :thumb:
Post by: GSimon on Sun, 20 July 2014, 23:31:56
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
Changed my vote to bronze/bronze as well. Sounds classy. :thumb:
All you bronze supporters are just so great :thumb:
Post by: fatchoi on Mon, 21 July 2014, 00:23:52
yah, sorry about that. they were supposed to be low profile cap head and low profile button heads.
small hex head is actually a good option too.
anyway, just a heads up. there are maybe 17? units left in this batch, and orders are starting to pick up again. if you are on the fence, i'd suggest getting off of it mighty quick :P
+1 for small hex head, but is it available in black please?
Post by: fatchoi on Mon, 21 July 2014, 00:26:51
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
Changed my vote to bronze/bronze as well. Sounds classy. :thumb:
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
Changed my vote to bronze/bronze as well. Sounds classy. :thumb:
All you bronze supporters are just so great :thumb:
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
I think bronze bronze should have met the MOQ?
Post by: zflamewing on Mon, 21 July 2014, 03:41:09
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 21 July 2014, 07:51:41
Post by: mashby on Mon, 21 July 2014, 08:32:57
Come on guys, no love for raw titanium?
I'm currently down for grey, but I've been on the fence about switching back to raw. Since there aren't any production samples to compare to -- like any group buy -- it's hard to make a qualified decision. :-\
I just don't have enough experience with titanium to really know what to expect.
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 21 July 2014, 08:42:15
Come on guys, no love for raw titanium?
I'm currently down for grey, but I've been on the fence about switching back to raw. Since there aren't any production samples to compare to -- like any group buy -- it's hard to make a qualified decision. :-\
I just don't have enough experience with titanium to really know what to expect.
It is actually really easy to anodize titanium at home. The way you vary the color is by adjusting the voltage. No need for dyes.
Post by: tbc on Mon, 21 July 2014, 12:23:11
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 21 July 2014, 12:33:02
does that mean it's not really s problem to reanodize it to another color?
Yes and no. If you want to go to a color that is higher on the voltage range I believe you can. If you want to go to a color that is lower on the voltage range you will have to mechanically remove the old coating. Mkawa might be able to correct me if I am a little off in my train of thought.
Post by: tyvar1 on Mon, 21 July 2014, 16:57:00
Post by: tbc on Mon, 21 July 2014, 17:14:07
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 23 July 2014, 02:31:34
unalloyed titanium is so difficult to anodize tp a single consistent color across a single part that it's pretty much impossible to try anodization at home unless you want a multi-colored rainbow sort of thing.does that mean it's not really s problem to reanodize it to another color?
Yes and no. If you want to go to a color that is higher on the voltage range I believe you can. If you want to go to a color that is lower on the voltage range you will have to mechanically remove the old coating. Mkawa might be able to correct me if I am a little off in my train of thought.
in general, to re-anodize something, you have to mechanically debride the oxide layer with a cold, inert process that avoids formation of a new oxide layer, then anodize again. you're not going to be able to do this at home, and the grinder we use to prepare our stock is pretty much the only game in town _in the country_ that is willing to prep unalloyed sheet titanium, and running a single sheet through costs as much as running a tiny little plate through.
in general, if you have a part of the keyboard sandwich that you don't like the color of, wait until there's another run, or buy two kits with different colors. i would not recommend trying to screw around with anything at home unless you're willing to sacrifice your plate and scrap it completely.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 23 July 2014, 13:58:38
in the next order of business, in fitting vibex's gasket, he found an interesting property which could be either a feature or a potential pitfall. basically, a fastener system that is a single long bolt coming in from the top through a hole in the sorbothane and a nut at the bottom to secure the bolt allows you to squish the gasket to nearly whatever height you want on each of the four corners. the gasket is nominally 1/2" in height, but is very squishy, as it's 30O material. this is cool in that you can build in your own slant at the top of the keyboard, as there is a little extra room between the bottom plate and the PCB (the teensy is the real reason it must be 1/2", otherwise it could be much thinner). however, it's a bit harder to get exactly 1/2" on all four corners. you have to manually measure the distance between plates as you tighten the nut.
JD's original design uses a spacer nut that is exactly 1/2" and then is secured to each plate by a machine screw. this is a nice solution and looks nice when you don't use the gasket, but you won't be able to see the spacer if you use the gasket, and the spacer nuts are bit pricey, actually. anyway, curious to hear what options people would prefer.
finally, people have been asking about pricing on teensies. frankly, we can't give a much lower price than pjrc on teensies. the MOQ on quantity pricing is larger than our total possible order, so the only real benefit is that we can save internationals some shipping costs by buying teensies and packing them with the kits. my feeling is that i should just put the teensies up on the shop for pjrc's pricing (because that's pretty much what we're going to pay), and you will be able to put your kit order number in the notes for combined shipping. thoughts?
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 24 July 2014, 06:46:16
hey everyone. i've been living off a phone for internet and the floor for sleeping for the last week and have been unable to keep on schedule with production on this. as i mentioned before, we're being very careful with the waterjet cut of the plates. we need to make sure that the tolerances we're getting for the cheaper cut method we're using will be sufficient and if not, we will rejigger the drawing to make sure the plates come out properly. to this end, the WJ has been waiting to make a sample cut for me while i, ironically, move out of his area. thankfully, i've found someone down south to pick up the samples and post them to me so that i can take the necessary measurements and check fitment. since we're dealing with cuts on 3000$ worth of metal stock here, i am not going to screw around with the final cut. measure 10 times, cut once. my unavailability has delayed this process about 3 weeks now, unfortunately, but now that i'm slightly more stable (i'm at least sleeping on a couch right now), jd and i can go over the samples and drawings with a fine toothed comb.
in the next order of business, in fitting vibex's gasket, he found an interesting property which could be either a feature or a potential pitfall. basically, a fastener system that is a single long bolt coming in from the top through a hole in the sorbothane and a nut at the bottom to secure the bolt allows you to squish the gasket to nearly whatever height you want on each of the four corners. the gasket is nominally 1/2" in height, but is very squishy, as it's 30O material. this is cool in that you can build in your own slant at the top of the keyboard, as there is a little extra room between the bottom plate and the PCB (the teensy is the real reason it must be 1/2", otherwise it could be much thinner). however, it's a bit harder to get exactly 1/2" on all four corners. you have to manually measure the distance between plates as you tighten the nut.
JD's original design uses a spacer nut that is exactly 1/2" ad then is secured to each plate by a machine screw. this is a nice solution and looks nice when you don't use the gasket, but you won't be able to see the spacer if you use the gasket, and the spacer nuts are bit pricey, actually. anyway, curious to hear what options people would prefer.
finally, people have been asking about pricing on teensies. frankly, we can't give a much lower price than pjrc on teensies. the MOQ on quantity pricing is larger than our total possible order, so the only real benefit is that we can save internationals some shipping costs by buying teensies and packing them with the kits. my feeling is that i should just put the teensies up on the shop for pjrc's pricing (because that's pretty much what we're going to pay), and you will be able to put your kit order number in the notes for combined shipping. thoughts?
Do you have a sample of how the gasket looks like please? Just by looking at the description, i'd prefer spacer (looks like the picture in the first post I guess?)
For teensy, would you mind disclosing the price please? Actually I'm more concerned about the stabiliser.
Sorry to hear you had to sleep on floor. .. hope you get a bed soon. It must be a pain typing the post if you don't have a keyboard connected to your phone
Post by: byker on Thu, 24 July 2014, 10:23:23
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 25 July 2014, 12:14:37
Post by: abjr on Fri, 25 July 2014, 15:16:36
Post by: PandaSPUR on Fri, 25 July 2014, 15:42:44
- How hard is it to build this? I've soldered things before, but basic things... things that didnt require much precision
- Anyone willing to build this for me? >.<
- The price of this + the learn to solder kit is too high for me ):
- Is it really usable? I dont quite understand how the key layout works...
Post by: daddytime on Fri, 25 July 2014, 18:13:05
Post by: PandaSPUR on Fri, 25 July 2014, 19:17:38
Its not hard. I built my dox and had never soldered before. I then built another for a friend. I love doing it. I wouldn't mind building yours either!
I might take that offer.. lol
Hm, so how else is everyone sourcing the rest of the parts anyway?
And how much longer will these be sold? I kinda want to wait for my next paycheck (the 10th) first..
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 26 July 2014, 03:31:21
vibex has a gasket installed and is probably the best source of pics at the moment, i'm trying to source stabs today. teensies at 18 at PJRC, so that would be the price, more or less.
Price looks reasonable. I think I'd get 1or 2
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 26 July 2014, 03:33:18
Its not hard. I built my dox and had never soldered before. I then built another for a friend. I love doing it. I wouldn't mind building yours either!
I might take that offer.. lol
Hm, so how else is everyone sourcing the rest of the parts anyway?
And how much longer will these be sold? I kinda want to wait for my next paycheck (the 10th) first..
I'm relying on mkawa to source the materials, apart from switches. ;)
Post by: Yslen on Sat, 26 July 2014, 08:35:44
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 26 July 2014, 13:26:30
instead of the learn to solder kit, please consider the cl1481 and stand kit @ 69 or 79.99 (forget what the pricing is) instead. it's a very affordable starter kit that you can add the other parts onto as your need them
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/soldering-tools-and-supplies/products/edsyn-cl1481-soldering-iron
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sat, 26 July 2014, 14:03:30
So if this is still available by August 10th, I'll probably hop on it.
I still dont understand how a 40% sized keyboard can still be useful though.
Post by: taylordcraig on Sat, 26 July 2014, 14:14:30
Well either way, I definitely cant go for it before my next paycheck, already splurged a lot this month lol.
So if this is still available by August 10th, I'll probably hop on it.
I still dont understand how a 40% sized keyboard can still be useful though.
I use mine for portability. But the tiny footprint on my desk is actually really nice.
I have the bottom two corners set as function layer keys and have every key available to me. :)
Post by: Spopepro on Sat, 26 July 2014, 14:49:05
Mkawa: I vote for spacers rather than sorbothane. I was probably going to do that anyway since I plan on DIY rainbow anodizing my plates, and showing more plate sounds good to me.
Post by: Yslen on Sat, 26 July 2014, 15:29:05
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 26 July 2014, 22:33:50
stabs are a lock, courtesy wasdkeyboards. i'll put up those and the teensies at 0 shipping cost pretty soon with instructions to specify your kit order number when placing your order. there isn't a heck of a lot else needed to build the unit.
instead of the learn to solder kit, please consider the cl1481 and stand kit @ 69 or 79.99 (forget what the pricing is) instead. it's a very affordable starter kit that you can add the other parts onto as your need them
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/soldering-tools-and-supplies/products/edsyn-cl1481-soldering-iron
Thank you. Pretty much most required stuff can be sourced now. ;)
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sat, 26 July 2014, 23:25:36
stabs are a lock, courtesy wasdkeyboards. i'll put up those and the teensies at 0 shipping cost pretty soon with instructions to specify your kit order number when placing your order. there isn't a heck of a lot else needed to build the unit.
instead of the learn to solder kit, please consider the cl1481 and stand kit @ 69 or 79.99 (forget what the pricing is) instead. it's a very affordable starter kit that you can add the other parts onto as your need them
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/soldering-tools-and-supplies/products/edsyn-cl1481-soldering-iron
So do we have to use costar stabilizers?
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 26 July 2014, 23:54:59
So do we have to use costar stabilizers?
It's not a limitation of the plate, if that's what you're asking. You could also use a plate mount Cherry stabilizer. No holes in the PCB for PCB-mount, though.
Post by: GSimon on Sun, 27 July 2014, 00:00:20
It's not a limitation of the plate, if that's what you're asking. You could also use a plate mount Cherry stabilizer. No holes in the PCB for PCB-mount, though.
Yay! Was hoping Cherry stabilizers were an option :)
Post by: jacobolus on Sun, 27 July 2014, 03:06:39
Post by: Vibex on Sun, 27 July 2014, 08:55:27
So Vibex: have you written a review of that sorbothane gasket yet? Also, pictures!Sorry that it took me so long, I kept putting it off. Here are a few potato pics that I took with my phone.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
As for a review, I'll just type a brief overview of the difference in feel. There is far less vibration in the case when I type. It feels more solid and is slightly quieter (though I'm using browns already, so they aren't that loud anyway). I think I prefer the gasket over the individual spacers. I also prefer the aesthetic of the gasket more as well. It takes a ton of time to get it placed properly in the case though. If anyone has any specific questions please ask.
Post by: zflamewing on Sun, 27 July 2014, 09:55:21
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 27 July 2014, 10:17:17
So Vibex: have you written a review of that sorbothane gasket yet? Also, pictures!Sorry that it took me so long, I kept putting it off. Here are a few potato pics that I took with my phone.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
As for a review, I'll just type a brief overview of the difference in feel. There is far less vibration in the case when I type. It feels more solid and is slightly quieter (though I'm using browns already, so they aren't that loud anyway). I think I prefer the gasket over the individual spacers. I also prefer the aesthetic of the gasket more as well. It takes a ton of time to get it placed properly in the case though. If anyone has any specific questions please ask.
Thanks for the pic. It seems the gasket isn't perfectly aligned with the plate edges. Is it due to some pressure on the gasket? Appearance looks less appealing but functionality sounds better.
I can't conclude what I prefer. :P
Post by: katushkin on Sun, 27 July 2014, 10:18:15
Post by: Vibex on Sun, 27 July 2014, 10:28:07
Thanks for the pic. It seems the gasket isn't perfectly aligned with the plate edges. Is it due to some pressure on the gasket? Appearance looks less appealing but functionality sounds better.The gasket that is coming with all of the GB boards won't be sticky, so it will be easier to place correctly. The one I have keeps getting stuck to my wrist wrest and shifting it. That is why it is so misaligned. It shouldn't be as bad for everyone else.
I can't conclude what I prefer. :P
Oh wow. That looks awesome. I'm glad I managed to get a hold of a Granite set!
There are some much better shots of it in the Keycon Media threads. They got to use real cameras for there photos while I'm stuck with a phone.
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 27 July 2014, 10:50:06
Thanks for the pic. It seems the gasket isn't perfectly aligned with the plate edges. Is it due to some pressure on the gasket? Appearance looks less appealing but functionality sounds better.The gasket that is coming with all of the GB boards won't be sticky, so it will be easier to place correctly. The one I have keeps getting stuck to my wrist wrest and shifting it. That is why it is so misaligned. It shouldn't be as bad for everyone else.
I can't conclude what I prefer. :POh wow. That looks awesome. I'm glad I managed to get a hold of a Granite set!
There are some much better shots of it in the Keycon Media threads. They got to use real cameras for there photos while I'm stuck with a phone.
If that's the case, I'm going with gasket. But let's see how others think.
Thanks for describing the gasket.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 27 July 2014, 16:25:28
i'll get a google form up for gasket vs spacer choices (it seems like most people who don't want gaskets are following the thread) up when i get a moment to breathe (i'm currently couch surfing among other things, oy vey!)
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sun, 27 July 2014, 16:52:56
Well either way, I definitely cant go for it before my next paycheck, already splurged a lot this month lol.
So if this is still available by August 10th, I'll probably hop on it.
I still dont understand how a 40% sized keyboard can still be useful though.
I use mine for portability. But the tiny footprint on my desk is actually really nice.
I have the bottom two corners set as function layer keys and have every key available to me. :)
Thinking of using it for the same thing (if I get one). Carry it around with my Surface Pro 2. Did the same thing with my KBT Pure before that became my work keyboard lol.
How do you keep track of all the different special keys? Keep a jpg on your desktop? lol
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 27 July 2014, 19:22:26
The gasket is definitely a bit squishy, but that's actually a functional thing. If it weren't squishy, you wouldn't get the deadening effect out of it
Post by: taylordcraig on Sun, 27 July 2014, 19:23:49
is it possible to order a gasket for my jd40? i have Ti plates coming, might as well do a full upgrade right? :)
Post by: swill on Sun, 27 July 2014, 20:43:12
The PTFE coating is going to get rid of the stickiness problems that vibex is having, and it should be easier to adjust as well. One negative thing about the PTFE coating though is that it won't take paint...
The gasket is definitely a bit squishy, but that's actually a functional thing. If it weren't squishy, you wouldn't get the deadening effect out of it
Is the gasket basically the same as my minimal case? Or is there no metal back plate at all with you gasket version?
I need to take pictures of my JD40 to show what I have done. Maybe I can do that tonight.
Post by: jacobolus on Sun, 27 July 2014, 20:51:25
Is the gasket basically the same as my minimal case? Or is there no metal back plate at all with you gasket version?The gasket replaces the spacers between the top and bottom plates found on some minimal keyboards, so that they’re connected by something squishy rather than rigid. The design isn’t quite like your minimal case.
I need to take pictures of my JD40 to show what I have done. Maybe I can do that tonight.
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 27 July 2014, 21:23:24
if you really don't want a gasket, i can accommodate that, no problem, since i haven't ordered the gasket run yet.
i'll get a google form up for gasket vs spacer choices (it seems like most people who don't want gaskets are following the thread) up when i get a moment to breathe (i'm currently couch surfing among other things, oy vey!)
Just mark me down for both gasket and spacers please. If I need to pay a couple extra dollars just let me know.
Post by: swill on Sun, 27 July 2014, 22:54:11
Is the gasket basically the same as my minimal case? Or is there no metal back plate at all with you gasket version?The gasket replaces the spacers between the top and bottom plates found on some minimal keyboards, so that they’re connected by something squishy rather than rigid. The design isn’t quite like your minimal case.
I need to take pictures of my JD40 to show what I have done. Maybe I can do that tonight.
Ya that is basically the same thing I did with my JD40. I built a silicone insert which goes between the switch plate and the back plate which replaces the spacers. My silicone insert not only works as the spacer, but also sits flush against the bottom of the PCB (well the solder joints anyway), so same as my minimal case. I will take pictures at some point and post it here...
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Mon, 28 July 2014, 05:21:34
Post by: swill on Mon, 28 July 2014, 22:31:38
My initial plan was to attach the original bottom plate to the top plate through the silicon, but when I started playing with it just like this I kind of liked it. The PCB is stuck in the top two layers, so its not going anywhere. Also, the bottom surface is an entire plane of silicone, so it sticks to the desk super well. Because this keyboard is so light to start with, it does tend to move around if you don't have good bumpers, so I actually like it like this.
Anyway, enough talk, more show...
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
PS - Cutting silicone is a PITA, so if I did this again, I would build up all the layers with the cutouts before I cut around the outside. Then I would cut all 4 layers around the outside at one time. This would make the outside edges look nice and clean. Trying to 'touch it up' after the initial cut will just make it look horrible (as you can see). The first cuts are all nice and clean, I just laminated them together after cutting them and it was tricky to do without a jig or anything. Lessons learned...
Post by: PandaSPUR on Mon, 28 July 2014, 23:38:24
Now I just need to do research on the rest of the parts needed...
I'm still not clear on what other parts we're working on to get a GB for? >.>
EDIT:
So after browsing through the thread:
We still need to purchase Teensy controllers, but you're working on a way for us to get a slightly cheaper rate.
We need 40 switches, sourced by ourselves.
We need 2 plate mounted cherry stabs.
As for LEDs....
Yes, the holes for LEDs are there, but with no traces to anything. So you can definitely hand wire LEDs however you want them. You'll just have to pull +5V from the USB somewhere. If I had been a little more forward thinking, I would have had regack put a couple of holes from the power and ground connections to run the LEDs.
And you are correct in that the caps lock indicator are the adjacent holes to the LED holes in that one switch position.
So how would we hook up LEDs on this board? Bare wires running all over the back? ):
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 29 July 2014, 09:05:42
Okay so I believe I am officially in this buy now lol. A gentleman in need gave me an extra reason to throw my money in this haha.
Now I just need to do research on the rest of the parts needed...
I'm still not clear on what other parts we're working on to get a GB for? >.>
EDIT:
So after browsing through the thread:
We still need to purchase Teensy controllers, but you're working on a way for us to get a slightly cheaper rate.
We need 40 switches, sourced by ourselves.
We need 2 plate mounted cherry stabs.
You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/
As for LEDs....Yes, the holes for LEDs are there, but with no traces to anything. So you can definitely hand wire LEDs however you want them. You'll just have to pull +5V from the USB somewhere. If I had been a little more forward thinking, I would have had regack put a couple of holes from the power and ground connections to run the LEDs.
And you are correct in that the caps lock indicator are the adjacent holes to the LED holes in that one switch position.
So how would we hook up LEDs on this board? Bare wires running all over the back? ):
Yes, wires running all over the back. :(
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 29 July 2014, 09:18:07
Series might not be so bad, could just bend the leads and solder them together. But wiring it all in parallel will be uuuggllly (especially since I'm preferring the bare spacer look right now).
And I might also look for someone to do this for me... Seems to be a bit out of my league. Unless I want to plop $80 for the iron and get the extra PCB. Hm.
Any guides out there? I couldnt (easily) find one on these forums.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 29 July 2014, 09:41:52
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 10:49:35
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 29 July 2014, 10:58:07
i will be starting another buy on notched top plates shortly
Are we able to substitute the plate in our smallfry order for the notched ones or do we have to buy the notched plate separately?
Post by: swill on Tue, 29 July 2014, 11:00:55
Post by: Yslen on Tue, 29 July 2014, 11:02:56
i will be starting another buy on notched top plates shortly
Are we able to substitute the plate in our smallfry order for the notched ones or do we have to buy the notched plate separately?
Those who bought notched plates in the previous round were allowed to swap out the non-notched one, so I imagine it'll be the same this time.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 11:05:43
Just a quick question, will the top plate come cut out to be able to put in the switches?it will be sold as a substitution/upgrade
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 29 July 2014, 11:18:32
You have PM btw mkawa.
Getting excited..
Thinking of the best way to light this little keyboard now.
Might keep it simple with USB powered EL wire. Not sure if I want to deal with wiring 40 LEDs
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 11:23:34
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
the pricing is set as an upgrade for existing smallfry keyboard kit orders. i'll see what the demand is for upgrades and then open it up again for individual plate orders independent of smallfry kits if there is material left.
Post by: Zeal on Tue, 29 July 2014, 11:57:41
...and here we go!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
the pricing is set as an upgrade for existing smallfry keyboard kit orders. i'll see what the demand is for upgrades and then open it up again for individual plate orders independent of smallfry kits if there is material left.
What's different between this upgraded cutout plate, and the one sold before? Price was a lot higher for the first round.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 29 July 2014, 12:04:18
...and here we go!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
the pricing is set as an upgrade for existing smallfry keyboard kit orders. i'll see what the demand is for upgrades and then open it up again for individual plate orders independent of smallfry kits if there is material left.
This is the top plate with the holes, not just traces of where to cut, right? Therefore, if I don't buy the 'upgrade' I will have to get the top plate cut myself in order to build the keyboard, correct?
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 29 July 2014, 12:09:42
...and here we go!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
the pricing is set as an upgrade for existing smallfry keyboard kit orders. i'll see what the demand is for upgrades and then open it up again for individual plate orders independent of smallfry kits if there is material left.
This is the top plate with the holes, not just traces of where to cut, right? Therefore, if I don't buy the 'upgrade' I will have to get the top plate cut myself in order to build the keyboard, correct?
No no. The difference with this plate is that it has extra notches to allow you to remove the cap of your switches to swap the insides.
Essentially, it lets you swap switch types without desoldering and resoldering entire switches.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 29 July 2014, 12:11:38
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 29 July 2014, 12:14:24
So, the base kit's top plate should arrive pre-machined, correct?
Yes. You will receive two plates in total, a top (switch) plate with holes cut for switch mounting and mounting screws, and a bottom plate with only the holes for the mounting screws.
Post by: snoopy on Tue, 29 July 2014, 12:21:37
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 29 July 2014, 13:03:09
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
Post by: Yslen on Tue, 29 July 2014, 13:04:02
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
I'm also interested in a spare but would rather avoid the import cost of buying a soldering kit from the US.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 16:48:12
ordered. but during checkout, I had to pay shipping again. :( will this be refunded somewhen?already refunded and bug fixed. it won't charge anyone shipping again for this upgrade
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 16:49:46
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
I'm also interested in a spare but would rather avoid the import cost of buying a soldering kit from the US.
i have yet to encounter issues with customs exporting soldering equipment to the UK. the bigger issue is that the basic cl1481 kit is 110v only. works fine with a good step-down transformer, but i can't provide one :(
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 16:50:37
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?eeks! butane-powered soldering irons are _not_ appropriate for beginners or precise electronics work. they're for field technicians and plumbers.
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
Post by: Yslen on Tue, 29 July 2014, 16:51:45
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
I'm also interested in a spare but would rather avoid the import cost of buying a soldering kit from the US.
i have yet to encounter issues with customs exporting soldering equipment to the UK. the bigger issue is that the basic cl1481 kit is 110v only. works fine with a good step-down transformer, but i can't provide one :(
The issue is the cost, rather than anything else. I can buy soldering equipment in town, much cheaper than shipping and import costs.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 16:53:47
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 16:54:42
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 29 July 2014, 17:20:08
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 18:20:03
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/smallfry-kit-extra-pcb-upgrade
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 18:21:48
Post by: Yslen on Tue, 29 July 2014, 18:30:48
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 18:49:43
Post by: Yslen on Tue, 29 July 2014, 18:51:01
yah, hold on. let me check the shipping settings again.
No rush i am off to bed, work in the morning!
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 18:58:35
eta: hah! anyway, it should be fixed. let me know if it wants to charge you and i'll jimmy with it a bit more.
Post by: Yslen on Tue, 29 July 2014, 19:00:53
Post by: docwlad on Tue, 29 July 2014, 19:06:00
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 19:10:57
Post by: Zeal on Tue, 29 July 2014, 19:55:45
Quote
...and here we go!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
the pricing is set as an upgrade for existing smallfry keyboard kit orders. i'll see what the demand is for upgrades and then open it up again for individual plate orders independent of smallfry kits if there is material left.
What's different between this upgraded cutout plate, and the one sold before? Price was a lot higher for the first round.
My question got buried on last page. :p
Post by: GSimon on Tue, 29 July 2014, 20:12:28
Post by: fatchoi on Tue, 29 July 2014, 20:16:32
Post by: GSimon on Tue, 29 July 2014, 20:20:51
Btw, for Teensy, what version do we need please? Remember there are v2 and 3
v2, I guess v3 could work also? but v2 is the teensy that is being sourced for the project.
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 29 July 2014, 20:26:37
@fatchoi, ONLY the Teensy 2.0 will work with this PCB. Not the ++ 2.0, nor the 3.0, nor the 3.1.
Post by: GSimon on Tue, 29 July 2014, 20:29:31
These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.
Darn, well, not sure if I pay to keep the original plates as well? If so I'd like to be invoiced for that.
Post by: Vibex on Tue, 29 July 2014, 20:32:23
@Zeal, if I remember correctly, those plates from the first round were sold as standalone units. These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.Is that how it's working. Can I change my standalone plate to an upgrade plate. I only need one, and I could always use the extra cash back.
Post by: GSimon on Tue, 29 July 2014, 20:36:36
Is that how it's working. Can I change my standalone plate to an upgrade plate. I only need one, and I could always use the extra cash back.
Well you wouldn't get the cash back. The upgraded plate would probably cost more than 55$ if it wasn't replacing the standard plate that does come with the kit already.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 29 July 2014, 20:51:43
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?eeks! butane-powered soldering irons are _not_ appropriate for beginners or precise electronics work. they're for field technicians and plumbers.
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
o_O its a battery powered soldering iron lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX-901-Cordless-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00FZPUA28
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 21:48:22
Post by: swill on Tue, 29 July 2014, 21:52:04
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?eeks! butane-powered soldering irons are _not_ appropriate for beginners or precise electronics work. they're for field technicians and plumbers.
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
o_O its a battery powered soldering iron lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX-901-Cordless-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00FZPUA28
OMG a battery powered soldering iron is a horrible idea. why do they even exist? just get an iron from mkawa or something like a hako fx-888d...
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 22:20:37
Post by: swill on Tue, 29 July 2014, 22:42:10
not to sound like a broken record, but the process temp for kester 44 leaded is 350C. anything that can't maintain a constant 350C is not an appropriate soldering iron.
Ya, I might be running my iron a little bit hot, but I have my hako fx-888d set to 685ºF using the smallest chisel tip I have (.8mm?). It feels like a nice working temp since I think the smaller tip dissipates heat faster than a bigger tip. When desoldering, I have to be patient and use a little extra solder to on each joint to get the solder to flow nicely before I solder suck...
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 29 July 2014, 23:17:05
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?eeks! butane-powered soldering irons are _not_ appropriate for beginners or precise electronics work. they're for field technicians and plumbers.
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
o_O its a battery powered soldering iron lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX-901-Cordless-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00FZPUA28
OMG a battery powered soldering iron is a horrible idea. why do they even exist? just get an iron from mkawa or something like a hako fx-888d...
Thats what I thought at first too. But I found the 4.5 star rating on amazon suspiciously curious. Did some research on it, and its actually a decent iron. Obviously it wont heat up super quick or handle large masses, but for my uses it seems fine.
Although the lack of tips is what's bothering me now... sigh.
Might end up with the Hako FX601. Dropping $100 for a full station just doesnt seem worth it for my purposes. In terms of both cost and space.
Any specific reason why the unregulated Edysn you sell on your site is recommended? At this rate I'll either go with that or Hakko FX601 + extra PCB + soldering accessories. Both ways end up costing me around the same amount.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 23:31:34
i used to highly recommend the 888/d, fwiw, until i learned two things: actual cost of production, and that it was possible for me to kill 2 units in one year from a slightly above average duty cycle.
another point of fact: despite being rated for nearly 2x the wattage and carrying DC over the pencil wire, the heater on the cl1481 is about 2x as large. the heater is the most expensive part of a soldering iron, the most delicate, and most important.
it is also designed for significantly more durability. it uses a clever system wherein it is externally sheathed to increase durability, but uses the hollow internals to make contact with its tips, which further increases structural integrity while heated without sacrificing much thermal efficiency. it's basically a smaller edsyn 951sx, which has been a stalwart of assembly lines for the last 20-30-some odd years for good reason: reliable, indestructible, accurate.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 29 July 2014, 23:33:31
anywhere around 350c on an 888d is good to go. i found in practice that my calibration drifted around 10C a month. a high prec ADC and uC control is great unless the tiny heater changes thermal efficiency every week :|not to sound like a broken record, but the process temp for kester 44 leaded is 350C. anything that can't maintain a constant 350C is not an appropriate soldering iron.
Ya, I might be running my iron a little bit hot, but I have my hako fx-888d set to 685ºF using the smallest chisel tip I have (.8mm?). It feels like a nice working temp since I think the smaller tip dissipates heat faster than a bigger tip. When desoldering, I have to be patient and use a little extra solder to on each joint to get the solder to flow nicely before I solder suck...
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 29 July 2014, 23:49:21
So at this rate I'll probably grab the $80 solder kit and $55 plate upgrade.
Assorted other parts will cost me what.. another $60 total. lol
I go cry somewhere.
Is there a time/quantity limit for the plate upgrade? i.e. can I cry a little longer or should I just go for it now?
Post by: Grendel on Wed, 30 July 2014, 00:45:53
Post by: fatchoi on Wed, 30 July 2014, 00:54:03
@Zeal, if I remember correctly, those plates from the first round were sold as standalone units. These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.
@fatchoi, ONLY the Teensy 2.0 will work with this PCB. Not the ++ 2.0, nor the 3.0, nor the 3.1.
Thank you.
For plate, I'm still thinking about the notched plate but I don't switch tool......
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 07:49:24
Post by: fatchoi on Wed, 30 July 2014, 07:51:00
i'm guesstimating the yield of notched plates, but there are currently 16 left after... 18 hours :P
I need one, will order after an hour...
Edit: upgraded :cool:
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 30 July 2014, 09:41:39
Bits ordered so far:
- Smallfry Kit - Raw Titanium
- Smallfry Plate Upgrade
- Basic Soldering Kit
- MX Clear Switches (50x)
Bits I still need:
- Teensy
- Diodes
- USB connector parts
Stabilizersnvm, these are included, woo- Assorted Soldering Tools (Panavise, clippers)
Will be living off free yogurt and snacks in the office for a few weeks.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 09:45:08
Post by: fatchoi on Wed, 30 July 2014, 09:55:31
i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
Great news. Thanks to abjr
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 30 July 2014, 09:56:40
i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
So that includes the plate mounted part, the bar, and the two bits for the key itself right?
Glad I didn't order those too lol. Was some ridiculous price on mechkb .com
EDIT: and thank you abjr :D
Post by: Zeal on Wed, 30 July 2014, 09:57:39
i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
Great news. Thanks to abjr
Thank you, abjr. :)
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 09:58:46
exactement!i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
So that includes the plate mounted part, the bar, and the two bits for the key itself right?
Glad I didn't order those too lol. Was some ridiculous price on mechkb .com
EDIT: and thank you abjr :D
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 10:21:50
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 30 July 2014, 10:31:15
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 30 July 2014, 10:41:15
Kinda wish there was a way to get light grey or white lol.
Post by: jdcarpe on Wed, 30 July 2014, 10:42:43
By the way, is there any benefit to getting anodized Grey over raw titanium?
Kinda wish there was a way to get light grey or white lol.
There is, but it's called paint or powder coat. :)
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 30 July 2014, 10:45:17
By the way, is there any benefit to getting anodized Grey over raw titanium?
Kinda wish there was a way to get light grey or white lol.
There is, but it's called paint or powder coat. :)
Tempting.. Wonder where I could take it for powder coating in NYC. lol
Pretty sure if I spray painted it myself it might turn out badly.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 10:57:46
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 30 July 2014, 12:21:24
Tammi at rainbowrpb.com is our official powdercoater and would be happy to powdercoat it for you. rainbow is in iowa, but it's not particularly expensive to send back and forth
I'll give her (him?) a email in a minute and see how much it'll cost..
How much do the two titanium pieces weigh? approximately. so I can get a shipping estimate.
As for all the other stuff, everything is ordered except assorted tools I may need for soldering.
For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 12:36:04
Post by: Ceedog on Wed, 30 July 2014, 13:00:46
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 30 July 2014, 14:01:24
about 1lb
If I end up doing this, USPS small flatrate box is probably the best way to go then.
This project costs more than my watercooling project =.= insane but exciting. lol
Post by: V1ral on Wed, 30 July 2014, 14:59:50
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 30 July 2014, 15:07:50
teensies are now available here: http://www.geekhackers.org/products/teensy-v2-0-upgrade-for-smallfry-kit
When trying to order it wants to charge shipping is it supposed to?
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 16:44:27
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 16:45:31
Turn away from the thread for one week and this happens... looks like I'm dropping another $55 on this kit, potentially another $80 for the LTS kit... Oy vey. Will the LTS and plate upgrade ship with the Smallfry as well?
LTS kits go out immediately so you can start putting stuff together asap :D. the plate upgrade will ship with the smallfry, since it will be anodized in your chosen color.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 30 July 2014, 16:54:31
no, the shipping method should say "free shipping". grumble.
Just checked and it shows free shipping now!
Post by: Ceedog on Wed, 30 July 2014, 16:57:19
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 17:16:11
Post by: GSimon on Wed, 30 July 2014, 19:59:37
Paid for the upgraded plate, I assume (hoping that) the upgrade does not replace the plate that comes with the SmallFry kit, as I want 2 plates (1 notched, and the original plate that comes with the kit)
These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.
Darn, well, not sure if I can pay to keep the original plates as well? If so I'd like to be invoiced for that.
Mkawa is there a way to make this happen?
Post by: Ceedog on Wed, 30 July 2014, 20:37:58
Post by: Ceedog on Wed, 30 July 2014, 21:35:52
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 21:52:50
if you do forget this in future (not you ceedog, but more generally), it's not a _huge_ deal, as long as you use the same customer account to make both orders. that said, referencing your order numbers makes it a lot easier on me!!
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 30 July 2014, 22:00:39
if there are extra plates of either type, i'll sell them first-come-first-served. nesting these plates is going to be a huge undertaking due to the multiple types of cutting, multiple drawings, and the need to fit in a run of 60% and 80% plates. at the moment, it will make my life about a hundred times easier if i'm pairing one top plate, notched or otherwise, with one bottom plate. the issue is that i originally planned my available kits based on the number of sheets i bought and the number of waterjet front and back pairs that could be yielded from each sheet and the number of notched plates that i had lasercut several weeks (?) ago.Paid for the upgraded plate, I assume (hoping that) the upgrade does not replace the plate that comes with the SmallFry kit, as I want 2 plates (1 notched, and the original plate that comes with the kit)These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.
Darn, well, not sure if I can pay to keep the original plates as well? If so I'd like to be invoiced for that.
Mkawa is there a way to make this happen?
the waterjet plates are cut in one pass with two sheets stacked on top of each other, so i originally nested assuming identical cuts on all 6 sheets of stock. i'm already throwing this off a bit by tossing another sheet at my laser with 40%s on it, so I probably will have extra top plates, but i can't guarantee anything, as there are a number of nasty details involved in the waterjet cut, and another project vying for space on the next lasered sheet.
tldr; i'm knee deep in titanium, and trying to keep things as simple as possible. look for extra plates/gaskets/pcbs/etc.etc.etc. _after_ initial fulfillment :)
Post by: GSimon on Wed, 30 July 2014, 22:17:48
if there are extra plates of either type, i'll sell them first-come-first-served. nesting these plates is going to be a huge undertaking due to the multiple types of cutting, multiple drawings, and the need to fit in a run of 60% and 80% plates. at the moment, it will make my life about a hundred times easier if i'm pairing one top plate, notched or otherwise, with one bottom plate. the issue is that i originally planned my available kits based on the number of sheets i bought and the number of waterjet front and back pairs that could be yielded from each sheet and the number of notched plates that i had lasercut several weeks (?) ago.
the waterjet plates are cut in one pass with two sheets stacked on top of each other, so i originally nested assuming identical cuts on all 6 sheets of stock. i'm already throwing this off a bit by tossing another sheet at my laser with 40%s on it, so I probably will have extra top plates, but i can't guarantee anything, as there are a number of nasty details involved in the waterjet cut, and another project vying for space on the next lasered sheet.
tldr; i'm knee deep in titanium, and trying to keep things as simple as possible. look for extra plates/gaskets/pcbs/etc.etc.etc. _after_ initial fulfillment :)
Ah ok, though I still don't quite understand the complexity of it all I guess I'll have to manage without the standard plate.
Post by: abjr on Wed, 30 July 2014, 22:45:42
i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
Great news. Thanks to abjr
Thank you, abjr. :)
You're welcome! I'm just trying to help out a bit. :D
Post by: Ceedog on Thu, 31 July 2014, 08:42:20
yep, just PM me or use the contact form and give me the two order numbers.
Done.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Thu, 31 July 2014, 11:59:17
Post by: dustinhxc on Thu, 31 July 2014, 12:23:43
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 31 July 2014, 12:26:04
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 31 July 2014, 12:38:44
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Okay so I believe I am officially in this buy now lol. A gentleman in need gave me an extra reason to throw my money in this haha.
Now I just need to do research on the rest of the parts needed...
I'm still not clear on what other parts we're working on to get a GB for? >.>
EDIT:
So after browsing through the thread:
We still need to purchase Teensy controllers, but you're working on a way for us to get a slightly cheaper rate.
We need 40 switches, sourced by ourselves.
We need 2 plate mounted cherry stabs.
You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
Post by: PandaSPUR on Thu, 31 July 2014, 12:39:57
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Here:
You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/
I didnt like the amazon source provided above ^ because shipping time was an estimated 17-21 business days...
So I found this:
For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 31 July 2014, 12:49:23
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Here:You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
I didnt like the amazon source provided above ^ because shipping time was an estimated 17-21 business days...
So I found this:For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979)
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
I got the ones from Amazon in ~10 days.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Thu, 31 July 2014, 13:00:54
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Here:You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
I didnt like the amazon source provided above ^ because shipping time was an estimated 17-21 business days...
So I found this:For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979)
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
I got the ones from Amazon in ~10 days.
Was it the same seller? All of the ones I found were from "uxcell"
The seller probably ships from China, and my experiences with that have been hit and miss. Sometimes it gets here quick, as if it was shipped from a far away state, sometimes it feels like it sailed over here on a row boat.
The price difference was minor and I didnt need 10 connectors, so I went with the US seller on ebay lol.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 31 July 2014, 13:05:10
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Here:You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
I didnt like the amazon source provided above ^ because shipping time was an estimated 17-21 business days...
So I found this:For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979)
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
I got the ones from Amazon in ~10 days.
Was it the same seller? All of the ones I found were from "uxcell"
The seller probably ships from China, and my experiences with that have been hit and miss. Sometimes it gets here quick, as if it was shipped from a far away state, sometimes it feels like it sailed over here on a row boat.
The price difference was minor and I didnt need 10 connectors, so I went with the US seller on ebay lol.
Yeah it came from china from seller uxcell. The one on ebay you linked appears to be low on stock.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Thu, 31 July 2014, 13:26:09
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Here:You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
I didnt like the amazon source provided above ^ because shipping time was an estimated 17-21 business days...
So I found this:For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979)
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
I got the ones from Amazon in ~10 days.
Was it the same seller? All of the ones I found were from "uxcell"
The seller probably ships from China, and my experiences with that have been hit and miss. Sometimes it gets here quick, as if it was shipped from a far away state, sometimes it feels like it sailed over here on a row boat.
The price difference was minor and I didnt need 10 connectors, so I went with the US seller on ebay lol.
Yeah it came from china from seller uxcell. The one on ebay you linked appears to be low on stock.
Ah so not bad then, I guess others could try that seller.
Actually since its so cheap and comes in a set of 10, mkawa could be even more awesome and just order 8 sets and include it for free ;D
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
Oh and Ebay sellers are typically bad at listing how much stock they actually have.
If this "sells out" a new listing will probably go up immediately.
Post by: abjr on Thu, 31 July 2014, 14:31:10
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I believe the diodes will be included. See reply #104.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Thu, 31 July 2014, 14:55:48
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I believe the diodes will be included. See reply #104.
Well ****, you're right:
On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
oh well. At least it was only like.. 2 bucks. And I needed the USB connector from mouser anyway.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 31 July 2014, 15:18:06
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I believe the diodes will be included. See reply #104.
Well ****, you're right:On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
oh well. At least it was only like.. 2 bucks. And I needed the USB connector from mouser anyway.
Don't worry, they'll come in handy for your next build. ;) (don't think this is the last keyboard you'll build. :P )
Post by: PandaSPUR on Thu, 31 July 2014, 15:42:46
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I believe the diodes will be included. See reply #104.
Well ****, you're right:On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
oh well. At least it was only like.. 2 bucks. And I needed the USB connector from mouser anyway.
Don't worry, they'll come in handy for your next build. ;) (don't think this is the last keyboard you'll build. :P )
I'm already wanting to build a second 40% using the sets bunny's selling.
And I want the Ducky Viper.
And I want a plate for my KBT Pure.
And.. and.. and... DAMNIT
Post by: Zeal on Thu, 31 July 2014, 15:46:56
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I believe the diodes will be included. See reply #104.
Well ****, you're right:On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
oh well. At least it was only like.. 2 bucks. And I needed the USB connector from mouser anyway.
Don't worry, they'll come in handy for your next build. ;) (don't think this is the last keyboard you'll build. :P )
I'm already wanting to build a second 40% using the sets bunny's selling.
And I want the Ducky Viper.
And I want a plate for my KBT Pure.
And.. and.. and... DAMNIT
It's alright, we all ended up crawling into this rabbit hole...
They call it Wallethack for a reason... :cool:
Post by: Greeeg on Thu, 31 July 2014, 19:35:36
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/935/935K-ND/2745648
Post by: PandaSPUR on Fri, 01 August 2014, 09:14:57
If anyone wants US sources for the USB connectors. check out electronics distributors digikey/mouser.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/935/935K-ND/2745648
I saw those on mouser as well, my only issue is that the leads look really close together (i.e. pain in my ass to solder) but I'm an amateur so maybe thats just me.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 01 August 2014, 22:10:47
Post by: samwisekoi on Fri, 01 August 2014, 22:18:20
also, if someone can find me a cheaper/better source of quantity both-ends-threaded or unthreaded spacers that are 1/2" tall and fit 4-40 thread machine screws, that would put this whole gasket vs spacer thing to rest.
I have a source; I'll check tomorrow when I am in the office.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 02 August 2014, 01:07:54
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 02 August 2014, 02:49:20
Edit: never mind, we won't be seeing the pcb after assembly ;)
Post by: swill on Sat, 02 August 2014, 07:59:36
also, if someone can find me a cheaper/better source of quantity both-ends-threaded or unthreaded spacers that are 1/2" tall and fit 4-40 thread machine screws, that would put this whole gasket vs spacer thing to rest.
I have been buying them on ebay for a couple dollars for 50. I have been buying brass spacers because they are easy to get and inexpensive.
Post by: samwisekoi on Sat, 02 August 2014, 12:41:11
http://fastenermarketplace.com/316440thd.html
3/16 Hex x 1/2 x 440 Thd
$0.34, 100/$26.52, 250/$51.00, 500/$86.70, 1000/$119.00
They have stainless and 1/4 hex as well.
Here is another:
http://www.intertexelectronics.com/K1893-C-Female-Female-Standoff-Aluminum-4-40-X-12-Hex-100PK-P10473.aspx
Female-Female Standoff Aluminum, 4-40 X 1/2" Hex, 100PK
100/$28.00
- Ron | samwisekoi
also, if someone can find me a cheaper/better source of quantity both-ends-threaded or unthreaded spacers that are 1/2" tall and fit 4-40 thread machine screws, that would put this whole gasket vs spacer thing to rest.
I have a source; I'll check tomorrow when I am in the office.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 02 August 2014, 13:54:13
http://fastenermarketplace.com/316440thd2.html
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 02 August 2014, 13:55:58
Post by: Zeal on Sat, 02 August 2014, 16:31:27
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 02 August 2014, 17:09:52
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 02 August 2014, 17:11:21
I've been using McMaster P/N 93330A370 in 4-40. I use 6 per case, obviously. :)luckily, ron's supplier has the same part for 50% of the cost. hooray! :)
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 03 August 2014, 20:04:37
i need some help. someone rear ended the fiat yesterday and there, unfortunately, serious frame damage. i'm not crazy about driving it down south until this whole fiasco pans out. i could really really use someone down there to help me out in working with the cutter. engineering knowledge would be a big plus. so would willingness and ability to get out east of LA to downey and to chat with my guy about the project.
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 03 August 2014, 21:37:28
SOCAL FOLKS!
i need some help. someone rear ended the fiat yesterday and there, unfortunately, serious frame damage. i'm not crazy about driving it down south until this whole fiasco pans out. i could really really use someone down there to help me out in working with the cutter. engineering knowledge would be a big plus. so would willingness and ability to get out east of LA to downey and to chat with my guy about the project.
Damn that sucks man. Wish I could help but I don't think the wife would want me flying out there for this. If I was in the area I would be all over this like a fat kid on a cupcake.
Post by: slickmamba on Sun, 03 August 2014, 22:24:25
Post by: r3nfr0 on Mon, 04 August 2014, 22:40:55
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 05 August 2014, 10:25:48
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 06 August 2014, 12:14:12
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 07 August 2014, 18:17:45
Post by: Yslen on Thu, 07 August 2014, 18:36:52
I've already paid etc, but will probably sell as soon as I have the kit now as it makes much more sense for me to be buying a cheaper keyboard I don't have to build than custom cut titanium and soldering equipment... money :(
Order is for notched top plate, standard bottom plate, both raw titanium. Two pcbs, whatever else comes standard. If anyone is interested let me know. If mkawa wants to say no transfers that's fine, I don't want to cause a fuss! If it's still possible to get a refund that's even better, but I'm not expecting that it is.
Post by: byker on Thu, 07 August 2014, 20:03:06
Post by: mashby on Thu, 07 August 2014, 22:33:35
Post by: Melvang on Thu, 07 August 2014, 22:41:44
If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
Post by: mashby on Thu, 07 August 2014, 22:50:58
Mkawa what sort of tooling would you suggest for a countersink bit for working with this stuff?
If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
I would be interested.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 07 August 2014, 23:49:27
Does anyone want to take over my order? I am assuming I can't ask for a refund (I feel bad even mentioning that!)yah, unfortunately i can't refund kits at this point. transfers are absolutely fine. i just need a PM from both parties that authorize me to ship the order(s) paid for by party A to party B.
I've already paid etc, but will probably sell as soon as I have the kit now as it makes much more sense for me to be buying a cheaper keyboard I don't have to build than custom cut titanium and soldering equipment... money :(
Order is for notched top plate, standard bottom plate, both raw titanium. Two pcbs, whatever else comes standard. If anyone is interested let me know. If mkawa wants to say no transfers that's fine, I don't want to cause a fuss! If it's still possible to get a refund that's even better, but I'm not expecting that it is.
Post by: Zeal on Fri, 08 August 2014, 00:25:35
Mkawa what sort of tooling would you suggest for a countersink bit for working with this stuff?
If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
I would be interested.
+1
Would be interested in countersunk top+bottom if you can do it. :thumb:
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 08 August 2014, 00:51:11
Mkawa what sort of tooling would you suggest for a countersink bit for working with this stuff?it's unalloyed, so you could use HSS if you wanted and you'd be able to make it through at least a few plates before you noticed the bit dulling. full tungsten carbide or cobalt HSS alloys will increase duty cycle, with the former probably being more effective. i would avoid TiN or TiAN coatings and just get bright (uncoated) bits and use a very slow feed rate and lots of coolant. other than that, all you really need is a good square drill press, a jig with solid hold-down to keep everything stable and control depth stoppage. wear resistance is really key in the tool, because the anodized plates will have a non-trivial skin of very hard titanium dioxide that you need to make a clean cut through at very low speed so that you don't further oxidize the part, and then a bunch of relatively hard (HRB60-ish) titan to drill through.
If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
one thing to emphasize is coolant, coolant and more coolant. titanium oxidizes almost instantly when exposed to air. the depth of oxidization depends on heat and some other junk. if the depth of oxidization is large enough, you get discoloration (which is why we only get indexed colors from our anodizer -- there is no dye, yah? just the titanium dioxide surface density causing diffraction at different wavelengths depending on depth). the upshot is that this becomes much much less of a problem if you don't expose the titanium you're cutting to air.
if you happen to have a small nitrogen generator around, i guess that could help too, but good old cutting oil is a lot more readily available and probably about as effective.
note that avoiding tin and tian and lowering feedrates is also important because of slagging and welding. titanium has a relatively low annealing point; it's higher than aluminum (which is painfully low) but lower than steel. most tools are made to cut steel, and yet are made of a steel alloy. cutting hardened steel with less hardened steel is going to destroy your edges pretty quickly, so manufacturers plate bits with stuff and use the steel inner as structural reinforcement and heatsinking, so you can use high feed rates until the coating burns off or the bit breaks and then you toss the thing and it gets remelted and circle of life etc. to make deep cuts into stuff that's hard, you just need a hard bit and to cut slowly, not a hard plating that will immediately burn off and slag everything.
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 08 August 2014, 00:56:01
Mkawa what sort of tooling would you suggest for a countersink bit for working with this stuff?it's unalloyed, so you could use HSS if you wanted and you'd be able to make it through at least a few plates before you noticed the bit dulling. full tungsten carbide or cobalt HSS alloys will increase duty cycle, with the former probably being more effective. i would avoid TiN or TiAN coatings and just get bright (uncoated) bits and use a very slow feed rate and lots of coolant. other than that, all you really need is a good square drill press, a jig with solid hold-down to keep everything stable and control depth stoppage. wear resistance is really key in the tool, because the anodized plates will have a non-trivial skin of very hard titanium dioxide that you need to make a clean cut through at very low speed so that you don't further oxidize the part, and then a bunch of relatively hard (HRB60-ish) titan to drill through.
If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
one thing to emphasize is coolant, coolant and more coolant. titanium oxidizes almost instantly when exposed to air. the depth of oxidization depends on heat and some other junk. if the depth of oxidization is large enough, you get discoloration (which is why we only get indexed colors from our anodizer -- there is no dye, yah? just the titanium dioxide surface density causing diffraction at different wavelengths depending on depth). the upshot is that this becomes much much less of a problem if you don't expose the titanium you're cutting to air.
if you happen to have a small nitrogen generator around, i guess that could help too, but good old cutting oil is a lot more readily available and probably about as effective.
Sounds good. I was mostly wondering about the cutter material and or coating choices. After they ship out and I get mine I will experiment with it and see how it turns out.
Would it be possible to ask the cutter to put some random holes is a couple of the smaller pieces of the scrap so I can try a couple before moving to the actual plate? Not sure how much for scrap there is going to be but I wouldn't think it would take more than something the size of an index card.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 08 August 2014, 01:01:02
i added some explanation of why i think plated tooling would not be all that great above
Post by: Ceedog on Fri, 08 August 2014, 01:36:00
Quote from: Melvang If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
[/quote
[/quote
Count me in as well.
Post by: GSimon on Fri, 08 August 2014, 01:46:08
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 08 August 2014, 01:46:49
Mkawa, I think I speak for those who haven't learned to solder yet in saying I don't know how you know some much about everything and you make me feel like a dummy :p. All the info/insights are great and not discouraging but I'm somewhat amazed by how you have a wide understanding different aspects of machining/d.i.y technology and manufacturing.
mkawa is a sponge.
Post by: Yslen on Fri, 08 August 2014, 02:26:29
Notched top plate upgrade
Standard kit (no standard top plate)
Extra PCB
Teensy
Shipping
Total $206
Post by: tbc on Fri, 08 August 2014, 03:25:06
i was thinking of making some domos
YES!
Post by: Ceedog on Fri, 08 August 2014, 04:18:32
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 08 August 2014, 10:58:00
My order up for sale then, this is what I've got so far. I selected raw titanium finish, but this can probably still be changed at this stage?yep, just resubmit the form with the kit order number
Post by: Yslen on Fri, 08 August 2014, 10:59:57
My order up for sale then, this is what I've got so far. I selected raw titanium finish, but this can probably still be changed at this stage?yep, just resubmit the form with the kit order number
Good to know, thanks. Just need to find someone interested in taking my place now!
Post by: osman99 on Fri, 08 August 2014, 22:29:47
Post by: Karura on Sun, 10 August 2014, 08:04:49
Post by: tahuds on Sun, 10 August 2014, 15:47:01
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 10 August 2014, 18:31:12
Any chance I could get a second bottom plate?see my PM. still not sure what you're looking for!
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 10 August 2014, 18:31:51
Looks like a nice kit. How difficult would it be for someone with no soldering skills to learn?on a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 is picking one's nose and 10 is building a jet fighter from scratch, i'd say it's like a 2 or 3 :P
Post by: Ceedog on Sun, 10 August 2014, 19:53:35
Post by: jdcarpe on Sun, 10 August 2014, 20:15:44
From the OP:
Quote
100% of profits from this project will be donated to the Nathan J Walter foundation, a scholarship trust set up by the family of Nathan Walter aka Smallfry to support eagle scout community service projects. The first such project was a set of benches overlooking a lake, built by one of Nathan's pack-mates and friends, with a dedication to Nathan etched on the benches.
We miss you Smallfry.
Post by: Ceedog on Sun, 10 August 2014, 20:16:53
Post by: Ceedog on Sun, 10 August 2014, 20:33:12
Post by: domoaligato on Sun, 10 August 2014, 21:08:18
Post by: Ceedog on Sun, 10 August 2014, 21:09:20
Post by: PandaSPUR on Mon, 11 August 2014, 21:43:08
IM READY.
Post by: slickmamba on Mon, 11 August 2014, 21:46:48
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 11 August 2014, 22:08:07
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/electronics-kits/products/smallfry-kit-extra-pcb-upgrade
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/keyboard-accessories/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 11 August 2014, 23:09:30
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3UUCZSi.jpg)
Sweet. Where'd you get the clear switch tops? An old GB?
Post by: PandaSPUR on Mon, 11 August 2014, 23:30:37
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3UUCZSi.jpg)
Sweet. Where'd you get the clear switch tops? An old GB?
Got em here: http://techkeys.us/collections/accessories/products/clear-mx-switch-cover
Kinda pricey at 50 cents each but since I only needed 40 I didnt mind.
One of the vendors on these forums is starting a new GB for clear tops though, cant remember which one right now.
Post by: Karura on Tue, 12 August 2014, 10:19:04
So please help me out with some understanding, but before I ask too many questions, is this group buy still joinable?
Is there a page where I can read up on more stuff, like "removable switch plate" that someone mentioned on the first page, what does that mean?
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 12 August 2014, 10:25:25
the notched plates allow you do remove the tops of the switches for modification of the switch internals after you can soldered the switches into the pcb and mounted them in the plate. more information in "simple questions simple answers"!
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40501.0
welcome to geekhack!
Post by: mashby on Tue, 12 August 2014, 10:26:20
Hello, so I am completely newb to this keyboard building and have level 0 soldering skills, but I want to try.. I really do!
So please help me out with some understanding, but before I ask too many questions, is this group buy still joinable?
Is there a page where I can read up on more stuff, like "removable switch plate" that someone mentioned on the first page, what does that mean?
Yes, you can still order.
If you want to get a lot of information about soldering, I recommend the Living Soldering Thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.0) and just start from the beginning and work your way down.
To learn more about the plate cutouts, WFD did a nice video, which can be found here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3CetdXi7AI&list=UU8WqdwRVjibpzHqvg_69gzw), that shows the cutouts in detail. He also has other videos that you might find helpful about soldering, such as his Custom phantom build (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdLAdci6p-w&list=UU8WqdwRVjibpzHqvg_69gzw).
Hope that helps!
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 12 August 2014, 10:29:51
Post by: SpAmRaY on Tue, 12 August 2014, 10:34:05
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 12 August 2014, 10:43:38
Post by: Zeal on Tue, 12 August 2014, 10:47:08
Post by: fatchoi on Tue, 12 August 2014, 11:30:41
just from glancing at it i think everything has made MOQ. the only note i have is that titan gray is destroying all the other colors. hah!
Bronze, yay. Thank you for making it happen.
Post by: zflamewing on Tue, 12 August 2014, 11:42:40
Post by: geniekid on Tue, 12 August 2014, 15:34:41
just from glancing at it i think everything has made MOQ.
[attachimg=1]
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 12 August 2014, 21:35:18
Post by: zflamewing on Wed, 13 August 2014, 06:25:46
N/M I'm blind and didn't see the newer additions added to the top.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Wed, 13 August 2014, 12:21:47
Post by: zflamewing on Wed, 13 August 2014, 12:26:01
Where can this spreadsheet be found?
You can check the form here: http://tinyurl.com/pkwpspn
and fill it out here: http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy
Post by: tahuds on Wed, 13 August 2014, 16:04:39
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 13 August 2014, 17:46:08
Post by: Thechemist on Thu, 14 August 2014, 18:27:24
Post by: Ceedog on Thu, 14 August 2014, 18:28:11
Post by: Yslen on Thu, 14 August 2014, 18:29:51
Post by: Ceedog on Thu, 14 August 2014, 18:30:41
Post by: Thechemist on Thu, 14 August 2014, 18:30:58
Sockets that you solder in through the bottom half of the switch. The top of the switch is then clipped on and the LED sits snugly in the socket, remaining easily removable so that the switch can still be opened.
This but I mod my sip sockets so you don't have to mod the switch itself.
Post by: Yslen on Thu, 14 August 2014, 18:31:26
Edit: ah, see the expert reply above :)
Post by: Thechemist on Thu, 14 August 2014, 18:31:54
I have no idea how I've never heard of this... Anyone know a good source for them?
Ebay.
Post by: GSimon on Thu, 14 August 2014, 18:39:35
Anyone who is getting their JD assembled by me will get sip sockets installed on the caps lock so that you can still replace the spring / stem on that swtich.
Awesome! many thanks
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 14 August 2014, 22:16:41
I have no idea how I've never heard of this... Anyone know a good source for them?
Ebay.
I have purchased these in the past.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-USA-SELLER-Free-Shipping-/321385380547?
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Fri, 15 August 2014, 10:11:25
Post by: Ceedog on Fri, 15 August 2014, 10:19:12
Post by: jdcarpe on Fri, 15 August 2014, 10:21:32
So. Chemist, how do you mod them?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.msg1171989#msg1171989
Post by: Ceedog on Fri, 15 August 2014, 10:23:24
I need some sleep.
Post by: Thechemist on Fri, 15 August 2014, 10:26:03
So. Chemist, how do you mod them?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.msg1171989#msg1171989
Thanks JD :p and yes that is how I do it.
Post by: domoaligato on Fri, 15 August 2014, 11:37:09
i was thinking of making some domos
YES!
#domohype :D
Post by: swill on Fri, 15 August 2014, 13:11:27
So. Chemist, how do you mod them?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.msg1171989#msg1171989
Haha, I am embarrassed by how ghetto that video is. I was having a hell of a time trying to get my phone's camera to focus on what was in my hands. Oh well....
Post by: PandaSPUR on Fri, 15 August 2014, 13:54:14
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3UUCZSi.jpg)
IM READY.
Post by: tahuds on Fri, 15 August 2014, 22:57:27
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 16 August 2014, 09:39:41
if he can make the first cuts this week, i'm going to head down this week. otherwise, i'm going to head down next week. it also depends on the body shop's schedule, as i will need to pick up my car from the shop in norcal when it's done.
Post by: dustinhxc on Sat, 16 August 2014, 12:30:48
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Sun, 17 August 2014, 13:41:14
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 17 August 2014, 15:31:27
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 17 August 2014, 15:35:19
Post by: henz on Mon, 18 August 2014, 15:29:49
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 18 August 2014, 15:31:26
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 18 August 2014, 15:31:38
exsqueeze my noobiness but how do you write numbers and use function keys on it? or are there none? thinking of ordering this for just having something to solder ;D
function layers
You can read more here http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47133.0
Post by: henz on Mon, 18 August 2014, 15:39:53
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 19 August 2014, 22:02:04
bad: my sample switches are an hour away
gahghaglkrkehgae
Post by: Zeal on Tue, 19 August 2014, 23:53:13
good: i have sample cuts
bad: my sample switches are an hour away
gahghaglkrkehgae
Quick, find an old board to desolder! :p
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 20 August 2014, 14:41:41
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 20 August 2014, 15:37:20
Post by: fatchoi on Wed, 20 August 2014, 19:32:54
the samples look _REALLY_ good by the way, and measure out extremely well. i'm going to do a test fit this afternoon and then kick off all the cutting.
Awesome. ;)
Looking forward
Post by: Zeal on Wed, 20 August 2014, 23:02:26
teaser pics?Pls no potato. ;)
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 21 August 2014, 00:03:53
Post by: byker on Thu, 21 August 2014, 00:16:48
well, i spent like 3 hours driving today, but i've test fit into the samples and they are per-fecto. going to give the go ahead and work out nesting with the cutter tomorrow.
Sweet! Thanks a lot for all of your work mkawa! I know I am super excited for these! :p
Post by: Greeeg on Thu, 21 August 2014, 00:30:42
I am greatful for transerancy qnd all your updates mkawa, it's clear that you're working hard.
I think I speak for all when I say, I can't wait to have this on my desk. ^_^
And thank you for all your effort mkawa. :)
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Thu, 21 August 2014, 07:40:13
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 21 August 2014, 14:12:58
Post by: tahuds on Thu, 21 August 2014, 18:37:46
the cutter is working on nesting capacity right now.
What alloy of titanium are the plates being made of?
Post by: Zeal on Thu, 21 August 2014, 19:28:57
the cutter is working on nesting capacity right now.
Any machine pr0n teaser pics allowed? :p
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 21 August 2014, 23:04:33
CP4 ASTM B265the cutter is working on nesting capacity right now.
What alloy of titanium are the plates being made of?
it is _unalloyed_ titanium, the highest purity available commercially.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 21 August 2014, 23:06:32
i have been running around so much that i still have unindexed pictures on my camera from keycon. i want to record another video update. will try to get something together soonthe cutter is working on nesting capacity right now.
Any machine pr0n teaser pics allowed? :p
Post by: orangeju1ce on Sat, 23 August 2014, 19:48:23
I'm quite new here.
I tried googling this but I couldn't any information about the notched top plates.
excuse the noob question, but does this mean you don't need to solder the switches to the pcb board? i'm not sure how this works..
I might need some pictures or a video on this.
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 23 August 2014, 19:54:21
Post by: Jixr on Mon, 25 August 2014, 09:56:59
Post by: byker on Mon, 25 August 2014, 09:57:29
whats the difference between this GB and the JD40 on the CTRL ALT store?
The plates are titanium and anodized.
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 25 August 2014, 09:58:19
Post by: tyvar1 on Mon, 25 August 2014, 11:08:14
I got a question. Is there any chance to use a international JD40? With åäö?
Post by: Jixr on Mon, 25 August 2014, 12:29:06
I'm thinking about the board, but the assembly process is a little more than I think I can do myself. And I have no idea how to program a tensy.
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 25 August 2014, 15:12:30
Post by: absyrd on Mon, 25 August 2014, 15:33:07
okay, thats what I need to know.
I'm thinking about the board, but the assembly process is a little more than I think I can do myself. And I have no idea how to program a tensy.
Looky here:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 25 August 2014, 16:31:52
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 25 August 2014, 16:37:16
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 25 August 2014, 16:38:05
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 25 August 2014, 16:39:52
Metalliq says it's compatible, but untested.
Cool thanks for the quick reply. I would assume the untreated part is due to none in the wild with the exception of prototypes of mkawas?
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 25 August 2014, 16:41:34
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 25 August 2014, 16:41:58
Does the easy avr firmware deal going to support this PCB? I remember hearing talk about it but don't remember what the final answer was for this version.
The latest beta version already supports it. :)
Post by: PandaSPUR on Mon, 25 August 2014, 17:08:29
I really want to but I was just thinking about how annoying soldering 40 tiny resistors on wires will be...........
Post by: ImAWildDeer on Mon, 25 August 2014, 20:30:40
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 25 August 2014, 23:14:44
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 25 August 2014, 23:21:04
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 25 August 2014, 23:30:47
:P
what i can say those is that i had an email chat with largefry wherein i gave him the magnitude of the donation that this project will be able to make to the foundation, and he was blown away (as I am every day i realize that we're doing this :D). anyway, long story short, he's going through the final paperwork to get the foundation set up. once that is all submitted, there is the usual wait to incorporate and obtain 510(c)(3) status in the eyes of the IRS.
finally, JD has the ptfe coated sample of the gasket and he thinks it is a large improvement over the original samples, but he's afraid that the coating might be too thin. i've contacted the sorbo guys about this and they are mulling it over. they felt this was the best solution (they are aware both of the charity aspect AND the keyboard design aspect of the project and have been beyond awesome about it), but they do have anything coating option, and from experience i know that even ptfe coating thicknesses can be manipulated by varying parameters of the process (ptfe usually is extremely homophobic, but it's also more or less amorphous -- the big problem is that in order to get it to a nice coating consistency, you have to cause degradation by heating it up such that it releases toxic gases)
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 25 August 2014, 23:33:12
Post by: abjr on Tue, 26 August 2014, 11:33:38
Post by: worldspawn on Wed, 27 August 2014, 08:05:13
Post by: absyrd on Wed, 27 August 2014, 08:06:51
I really just want one of the PCB's for this, is there any way to get just that?
It seems extra PCBs are only available with the purchase of a whole kit.
Read here:
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/keyboard-accessories/products/smallfry-kit-extra-pcb-upgrade
Post by: worldspawn on Wed, 27 August 2014, 08:33:38
I really just want one of the PCB's for this, is there any way to get just that?
It seems extra PCBs are only available with the purchase of a whole kit.
Read here:
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/keyboard-accessories/products/smallfry-kit-extra-pcb-upgrade
Sooo, does somebody ordering one want to get an extra PCB and sell it to me?
Post by: Yslen on Wed, 27 August 2014, 08:38:15
Edit: assuming this is deemed okay by mkawa of course
Post by: jdcarpe on Wed, 27 August 2014, 08:52:11
I really just want one of the PCB's for this, is there any way to get just that?
PCB won't be useful without a plate. There are no holes in the PCB for mounting PCB-mount switches, nor for a PCB-mount stabilizer. Switches and stabilizer must be plate mounted.
Post by: worldspawn on Wed, 27 August 2014, 08:59:42
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 27 August 2014, 11:33:58
I'm trying to pass on my whole order, but it does include an extra pcb if you just want to buy that part.i'm going to send the second pcb to the person who buys your kit. of course, what happens to the pcb after that is up to the buyer.
Edit: assuming this is deemed okay by mkawa of course
Post by: Yslen on Wed, 27 August 2014, 11:40:26
Okay, no problem.I'm trying to pass on my whole order, but it does include an extra pcb if you just want to buy that part.i'm going to send the second pcb to the person who buys your kit. of course, what happens to the pcb after that is up to the buyer.
Edit: assuming this is deemed okay by mkawa of course
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Thu, 28 August 2014, 11:12:46
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 28 August 2014, 11:13:21
Post by: tyvar1 on Sat, 30 August 2014, 04:32:17
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 30 August 2014, 08:39:39
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sat, 30 August 2014, 08:40:44
On the order page, there is an image detailing keycap sizes for the board. I'd advise getting a flexible keycap set like blank or Granite DSAs if you want a full matching set.
Cool. I have some blanks and a set of DOLCH double shots.
Post by: samwisekoi on Sat, 30 August 2014, 09:23:57
What is the specific deal with soldering the CAPSLOCK LED jumper?
I know the answer is posted somewhere, but now that I have the kit, I cannot find that post anywhere. I think I just need to jump from one of the outside pads to the positive LED pad, but from which one (and why)?
I apologize if this should have been posted in an ALT40 or a JD40 thread, but this thread seems to be the most active and they are all the same PCB.
Thanks to whomever can answer the question. This is my next soldering task before I seal the plate over the board with 80 switch connections. And almost every other kit buyer will have this question.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Post by: strict on Sat, 30 August 2014, 09:44:36
I apologize if this question has been asked and answered on one of the 40 pages of the three or four JD40/SmallFry keyboard threads, but...
What is the specific deal with soldering the CAPSLOCK LED jumper?
I know the answer is posted somewhere, but now that I have the kit, I cannot find that post anywhere. I think I just need to jump from one of the outside pads to the positive LED pad, but from which one (and why)?
I apologize if this should have been posted in an ALT40 or a JD40 thread, but this thread seems to be the most active and they are all the same PCB.
Thanks to whomever can answer the question. This is my next soldering task before I seal the plate over the board with 80 switch connections. And almost every other kit buyer will have this question.
- Ron | samwisekoi
You're correct, you just need to bridge the two adjacent through-holes with traces leading to them to the LED holes. Here's a picture of how mine looks. I would also recommend using SIP sockets so you can still remove the LED to take apart the switch if needed.
(https://i.imgur.com/zhUvphy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CUagXEt.jpg)
Post by: tyvar1 on Sat, 30 August 2014, 09:51:44
On the order page, there is an image detailing keycap sizes for the board. I'd advise getting a flexible keycap set like blank or Granite DSAs if you want a full matching set.Awesome! I will get Granite!
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:12:21
the massdrop guys (baudlydamaged, lenkashman) have samples of both a populated titanium plate and an unpopulated notched plate. bug them for pictures! (while i'm in the middle of packing my life up and moving across the country XD)
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:16:26
JD is feeling a bit unsure about the durability of the teflon sorbothane coating (for those who missed it, our initial samples were super sticky and hard to handle). the teflon layer on the sorbothane is somewhat delicate and can be scraped off. the other option is a urethane coating that is thick and tough, but not slippery like teflon and has a rough feel and appearance.
here is what that looks like: http://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-Hemisphere-Non-Skid-Adhesive-Durometer/dp/B0042UA5WC/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1409613163&sr=8-27&keywords=isolate+it
can people weigh in on which kind of coating they'd prefer? i'd go with the more durable coating, but i'm not crazy about the aesthetics. teflon is obviously going to look much smoother than the bumpy urethane bidness
Post by: r3nfr0 on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:17:25
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:18:17
Post by: Vibex on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:18:47
QUESTION!Durability, not even a question.
JD is feeling a bit unsure about the durability of the teflon sorbothane coating (for those who missed it, our initial samples were super sticky and hard to handle). the teflon layer on the sorbothane is somewhat delicate and can be scraped off. the other option is a urethane coating that is thick and tough, but not slippery like teflon and has a rough feel and appearance.
here is what that looks like: http://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-Hemisphere-Non-Skid-Adhesive-Durometer/dp/B0042UA5WC/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1409613163&sr=8-27&keywords=isolate+it
can people weigh in on which kind of coating they'd prefer? i'd go with the more durable coating, but i'm not crazy about the aesthetics. teflon is obviously going to look much smoother than the bumpy urethane bidness
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:26:14
Post by: Vibex on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:28:20
Durability. It's a shame that we can't get both, but from Vibex's input on stickyness, I'm happy without any chance of that happening.Yeah, I had to completely remove the sticky sorbothane from my JD40. It just became to much of a dust magnet. It also kept getting stuck to my wrist wrest, and caused a bit of the coluor to get pealed away.
Post by: jacobolus on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:42:59
Post by: byker on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:44:35
Post by: Zeal on Mon, 01 September 2014, 18:46:28
Post by: Greeeg on Mon, 01 September 2014, 20:04:23
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Mon, 01 September 2014, 20:17:00
Post by: Grendel on Mon, 01 September 2014, 20:22:54
Post by: Vibex on Mon, 01 September 2014, 20:24:21
Post by: PandaSPUR on Mon, 01 September 2014, 20:27:10
I think this is pretty unanimous at this point. Durability is more important then the aesthetic.
Especially the aesthetic wont even last once the teflon starts peeling.
Durability!
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 02 September 2014, 00:18:21
Post by: zflamewing on Tue, 02 September 2014, 03:44:44
Post by: fatchoi on Tue, 02 September 2014, 09:04:47
Post by: Lurch on Tue, 02 September 2014, 09:18:31
Post by: mashby on Tue, 02 September 2014, 12:29:45
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 02 September 2014, 18:12:50
EDIT: Found it in another thread: http://i.imgur.com/FHn851M.png
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 02 September 2014, 20:31:37
Might be a stupid question, but what is the layout with the function layers going to be? Or is it something that I am able to program myself. If that is the case, what would you guys do?
EDIT: Found it in another thread: http://i.imgur.com/FHn851M.png
Search for the original JD40 thread on here somewhere, quite a few people posted their setups. And yea, you can program it however you want.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 04 September 2014, 17:36:40
Post by: byker on Thu, 04 September 2014, 18:33:20
waterjet cutting should be in progress now. i've cut off orders where we are, as i slightly overestimated yield per sheet. the numbers look good though for everyone except for the upgrade kits. for those, i need to run more sheets through the laser. now would be a good time to order 60 and 80% notched plates (HINT HINT)
Great news mkawa! Do you have a rough estimate on when the entire package will be hopefully finished? Just wondering if i can expect this in october or earlier/later?
Post by: cherpalla on Fri, 05 September 2014, 10:26:35
:-*
Also, you get some extra goodies with them, too.
Post by: Ceedog on Fri, 05 September 2014, 10:39:54
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sun, 07 September 2014, 13:35:05
NOT TO BE ANNOYING, but if anyone here hasn't seen the SmallFry artisan cap, check my sig. It's a great addition to the kit and profits go to support GH, Nate's scholarship fund and Share our Strength.
:-*
Also, you get some extra goodies with them, too.
Link?
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sun, 07 September 2014, 13:46:39
NOT TO BE ANNOYING, but if anyone here hasn't seen the SmallFry artisan cap, check my sig. It's a great addition to the kit and profits go to support GH, Nate's scholarship fund and Share our Strength.
:-*
Also, you get some extra goodies with them, too.
Link?
In her sig.
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sun, 07 September 2014, 13:47:17
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 07 September 2014, 14:09:04
Post by: jdcarpe on Sun, 07 September 2014, 15:11:01
Friends and Family key was done as a tribute shortly after his death. I have a couple that was given to me and the wife fro attending KeyCon 2013 in Chicago. One for me and one for the wife. I thought I remember there being a good number of extras. The one problem was they were 1.5u bottom row DCS profile. So not really compatible with the majority of boards. Please tell me this cap will have a place on the SmallFry board.
JD40/SmallFry doesn't use any 1.5u keys at all. You could always use it as left shift, if you don't mind a 0.125u gap.
Post by: cherpalla on Sun, 07 September 2014, 18:14:59
NOT TO BE ANNOYING, but if anyone here hasn't seen the SmallFry artisan cap, check my sig. It's a great addition to the kit and profits go to support GH, Nate's scholarship fund and Share our Strength.
:-*
Also, you get some extra goodies with them, too.
Link?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57263.msg1455582#msg1455582
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BwVCjG8IYAAcndC.jpg)
Post by: Hpm on Tue, 09 September 2014, 03:06:02
Post by: zflamewing on Tue, 09 September 2014, 04:43:53
Could You give mehr a hand? What is the difference between 60 and 80% notched plates?
80% is TKL e.g. QFR and 60% drops the F Keys and all the keys right of the alpha mod cluster e.g. Poker, Pure, Happy Hacker.
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 09 September 2014, 09:58:11
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 09 September 2014, 10:22:37
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 09 September 2014, 10:31:16
we're currently in production on titanium cuts. the next hop for the metal is the anodizers. we've decided on the gaskets, but i'd prefer to pay the cutter and anodizer bills first. at the current rate they're going, they're going to be the long pole by at least a month. hard to rush shops that are doing you a huge favor.
Awesome. Glad to hear stuff is moving along. I definitely understand that it will take some time, I was just curious if there was an idea of what the timeframe was looking like. Thanks!
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 09 September 2014, 18:21:45
Post by: r3nfr0 on Tue, 09 September 2014, 18:22:42
on the contrary, i'm quite unhappy about the delay, as i had targeted this to be shipped out by august. i'm confident that the kits will be significantly better with the adjustments we've made though, and i've made arrangements for fulfillment to be carried out as quickly as possible once all the parts are together.
Timelines rarely hold when manufacturing small batches. Thanks for sticking with it!
Post by: byker on Tue, 09 September 2014, 20:18:44
on the contrary, i'm quite unhappy about the delay, as i had targeted this to be shipped out by august. i'm confident that the kits will be significantly better with the adjustments we've made though, and i've made arrangements for fulfillment to be carried out as quickly as possible once all the parts are together.
How is the anodizing MOQs going? Will we be told if we have to switch?
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 10 September 2014, 11:04:08
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 11 September 2014, 00:46:44
on the contrary, i'm quite unhappy about the delay, as i had targeted this to be shipped out by august. i'm confident that the kits will be significantly better with the adjustments we've made though, and i've made arrangements for fulfillment to be carried out as quickly as possible once all the parts are together.
Thanks for the update. Hope the end product looks great. ;)
Post by: numiru on Sat, 13 September 2014, 15:09:07
Only 15 orders on the SmallFry Kit to reach MOQ.
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sat, 13 September 2014, 15:20:32
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sat, 13 September 2014, 17:56:23
not that it stopped me.
Post by: numiru on Sat, 13 September 2014, 17:58:48
ok, i ordered it, but the small fry add on kit price was RIDICULOUSThanks! One order closer to MOQ :)
not that it stopped me.
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 13 September 2014, 22:35:43
Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
Post by: Skuloth on Sat, 13 September 2014, 23:08:18
Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Post by: tyvar1 on Sun, 14 September 2014, 01:12:20
Same here! I also bought that blue enter for my jd40 and the pro modifiers and speciality pack :) all just for the JD40 :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Post by: zflamewing on Sun, 14 September 2014, 01:38:44
Post by: tyvar1 on Sun, 14 September 2014, 02:04:38
Will the Nostalgia kit fit the JD40?you can check here:
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0314/6133/products/a3O5hAI_grande.png?v=1402170280)
Post by: tyvar1 on Sun, 14 September 2014, 02:09:51
1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Post by: Skuloth on Sun, 14 September 2014, 11:14:39
1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Main Layer:
(http://i.imgur.com/UgnbXtL.png)
Function Layer:
(http://i.imgur.com/eKvid8b.png)
I'm not sure if the firmware will let me do the macro style fn layer stuff like ctrl alt del and what not, but I have those set up on my poker and want to mirror them on my JD40. Other than that, I'm not sure how I want the number to be arranged. Currently they are set up with low numbers closer to the left for gaming. I may drop ctrl alt del in favor of having a shift key there and I'm still figuring out where f1-f12 are going, they may get a dedicated layer depends what all I can do with layers.
Post by: swill on Sun, 14 September 2014, 13:50:54
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62783.msg1469957#msg1469957
ps - maybe not appropriate for this thread. mods, do with as you see fit...
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Sun, 14 September 2014, 16:35:03
1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Main Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UgnbXtL.png)
Function Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eKvid8b.png)
I'm not sure if the firmware will let me do the macro style fn layer stuff like ctrl alt del and what not, but I have those set up on my poker and want to mirror them on my JD40. Other than that, I'm not sure how I want the number to be arranged. Currently they are set up with low numbers closer to the left for gaming. I may drop ctrl alt del in favor of having a shift key there and I'm still figuring out where f1-f12 are going, they may get a dedicated layer depends what all I can do with layers.
I guess what you can do is set fn+shift on top row for the function row. I really like this layout, I might use it!
Post by: Skuloth on Sun, 14 September 2014, 17:40:06
1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Main Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UgnbXtL.png)
Function Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eKvid8b.png)
I'm not sure if the firmware will let me do the macro style fn layer stuff like ctrl alt del and what not, but I have those set up on my poker and want to mirror them on my JD40. Other than that, I'm not sure how I want the number to be arranged. Currently they are set up with low numbers closer to the left for gaming. I may drop ctrl alt del in favor of having a shift key there and I'm still figuring out where f1-f12 are going, they may get a dedicated layer depends what all I can do with layers.
I guess what you can do is set fn+shift on top row for the function row. I really like this layout, I might use it!
I was thinking ctrl + fn as another layer and then having f1 - f12 as qwer, asdf, zxcv
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Sun, 14 September 2014, 18:10:24
Post by: Skuloth on Sun, 14 September 2014, 18:14:43
All in all, there's too many possibilities :confused:
Exactly.
Post by: tyvar1 on Tue, 16 September 2014, 06:20:06
Looking good! :D I need to find out a way to fit in åäö on the first layer. Going to be hard but I think this will work:1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Main Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UgnbXtL.png)
Function Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eKvid8b.png)
I'm not sure if the firmware will let me do the macro style fn layer stuff like ctrl alt del and what not, but I have those set up on my poker and want to mirror them on my JD40. Other than that, I'm not sure how I want the number to be arranged. Currently they are set up with low numbers closer to the left for gaming. I may drop ctrl alt del in favor of having a shift key there and I'm still figuring out where f1-f12 are going, they may get a dedicated layer depends what all I can do with layers.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/16/c783b40a434e68741c81c476ca6ef0bb.jpg)
And Fn:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/16/23c266bb0666c60b131f1e473e762372.jpg)
Post by: r3nfr0 on Tue, 16 September 2014, 06:21:46
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 16 September 2014, 06:39:59
Post by: Greeeg on Tue, 16 September 2014, 06:59:31
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 16 September 2014, 07:01:59
Post by: strict on Tue, 16 September 2014, 07:25:08
Crap, I forgot about getting all the electronics. Also I'm pretty sure this has been asked before, but how are the LEDs for caps lock going to work, what size led should I get?
This is the LED I used on mine - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VLHW4100/751-1502-ND/2403143 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VLHW4100/751-1502-ND/2403143)
LED is not required, it will work just fine without it.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 16 September 2014, 20:16:27
So this may be a dumb question, but do we NEED the caps LED? I don't plan on putting caps lock anywhere on mine and would rather not have the LED as well. Will the keyboard work without it?nope! you can absolutely build without the LED and resistor.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Wed, 17 September 2014, 12:19:10
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 17 September 2014, 12:20:13
Just making sure, I need plate mounted switches, correct?
Yes
Post by: PandaSPUR on Thu, 18 September 2014, 21:53:03
Also, is the gasket on solid piece or does it just follow the perimeter of the plates?
I'm asking because I'm thinking of using a mini breadboard to wire up all the LEDs and resistors. I'd want to stick it in the middle of the two plates if it fits.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Mon, 22 September 2014, 17:28:24
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 22 September 2014, 17:30:45
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 22 September 2014, 17:31:55
Question, how much space is between the PCB and the bottom titanium plate when its all assembled?appx 8mm
Quote
Also, is the gasket one solid piece or does it just follow the perimeter of the plates?perimeter
Quote
I'm asking because I'm thinking of using a mini breadboard to wire up all the LEDs and resistors. I'd want to stick it in the middle of the two plates if it fits.yah, you should be able to do this with perfboard. use like 26ga wire and 2mm perfboard.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 22 September 2014, 17:33:12
Post by: byker on Mon, 22 September 2014, 17:35:06
Fairly off-topic, but help me choose what switch to put in my Smallfry board. I'm currently stuck on MX Clears or MX Whites.
I am going for clears!
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 22 September 2014, 17:52:50
Thanks for the update mkawa! :)Fairly off-topic, but help me choose what switch to put in my Smallfry board. I'm currently stuck on MX Clears or MX Whites.
I am going for clears!
I am going to use linear stems with clear springs and lube.
Post by: Grendel on Mon, 22 September 2014, 18:51:02
Post by: tbc on Mon, 22 September 2014, 19:16:47
Blue w/ clear springs.
+1
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 23 September 2014, 00:48:40
Question, how much space is between the PCB and the bottom titanium plate when its all assembled?appx 8mmQuoteAlso, is the gasket one solid piece or does it just follow the perimeter of the plates?perimeterQuoteI'm asking because I'm thinking of using a mini breadboard to wire up all the LEDs and resistors. I'd want to stick it in the middle of the two plates if it fits.yah, you should be able to do this with perfboard. use like 26ga wire and 2mm perfboard.
Damn thats a tighter fit than I imagined. Forgot that the PCB isnt flush with the top plate.
So yea, will be using something like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12702 probably.
Needa prototype it out on a actual breadboard first. I guess this gives me something to do before the kits are done lol
Thanks for the info
Post by: tyvar1 on Sun, 28 September 2014, 11:57:48
http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/greentea-smallfry-kit/
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62684.0
Post by: r3nfr0 on Tue, 30 September 2014, 15:16:52
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 30 September 2014, 15:20:04
I don't think the small fry kit has made MOQ yet.
As far as I'm aware, all of the available kits have been sold and the kits are in production.
Post by: r3nfr0 on Tue, 30 September 2014, 15:20:46
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 30 September 2014, 15:30:29
Sorry, I meant with the key caps in the post above mine
Oh. My bad lol
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Thu, 02 October 2014, 09:32:09
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 02 October 2014, 19:37:17
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 02 October 2014, 19:38:17
that said, the cutter and i had a minor emergency where he thought he had confused some drawings. that would have put a serious kink in things. thankfully, he's running the right drawing though.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Thu, 02 October 2014, 20:18:31
Post by: tbc on Thu, 02 October 2014, 21:15:02
it's pretty obviously a candidate for a tablet keyboard
Post by: byker on Thu, 02 October 2014, 21:19:07
has there been any bluetooth mods for this board?
it's pretty obviously a candidate for a tablet keyboard
I haven't seen one, but I was hoping to make one work. I was looking at smasher's hhkb teensy bluetooth mod, and wondering if it would be fairly compatible because it also uses a teensy..
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 02 October 2014, 21:31:44
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 04 October 2014, 07:47:29
also, i have an opportunity to get plates CERAMIC COATED via a new process called cerakote. it is like powdercoated, but you the substrate is basicaly impenetrable ceramic powder. this is probably the coolest thing (other than lots of titanium) that i've had access to in quite a while. for examples on what can be done, check out https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rainbow-Paint-Blasting-Inc/337716255868
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sat, 04 October 2014, 07:51:56
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 04 October 2014, 09:00:09
Post by: Melvang on Sat, 04 October 2014, 10:14:19
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sat, 04 October 2014, 13:01:52
the cerakote layer can be as thin as 100-150 microns, which is <= 5 mils, so possibly, but unlikely. that said, i have absolutely no idea what the pricing on the cerakote process would be.
Ooh... coating in white would interest me, but yea I don't know if you/we/I want to put any more money into this haha.
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 04 October 2014, 13:02:49
Post by: byker on Sat, 04 October 2014, 13:10:36
Post by: Greeeg on Mon, 06 October 2014, 23:16:42
If anyone finds a way to blue tooth mod these guys let me know. That seems like a pretty sweet idea.I'm looking at developing one for my smallfry when it come. Only a planning stage currently. If anything eventuates it'll be open source. I'll make a thread and post all the instructions.
has there been any bluetooth mods for this board?
it's pretty obviously a candidate for a tablet keyboard
I haven't seen one, but I was hoping to make one work. I was looking at smasher's hhkb teensy bluetooth mod, and wondering if it would be fairly compatible because it also uses a teensy..
Post by: tbc on Tue, 07 October 2014, 01:50:01
i had ordered raw first, then changed my mind to gold. :D
Post by: numiru on Thu, 09 October 2014, 08:38:13
5 more hours left, 3 orders needed for these mods. You don't even need the GreenTea alphas, you can use the mods with any DCS or Cherry profile alphas.
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 09 October 2014, 08:40:58
Help tip these DCS Smallfry modifiers! (http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/greentea-smallfry-kit/)
5 more hours left, 3 orders needed for these mods. You don't even need the GreenTea alphas, you can use the mods with any DCS or Cherry profile alphas.
I know for me at least, getting a set like this doesn't really work. Since the keyboard is so small I need to be pretty creative with the function and main layers which doesn't really allow me to get a standard set of mods. Also since the layout may be pretty wonky I personally think DSA works a lot better on this board just to ensure everything lines up correctly.
Post by: tyvar1 on Thu, 09 October 2014, 11:03:12
Help tip these DCS Smallfry modifiers! (http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/greentea-smallfry-kit/)One more! Edit: tipped :D
5 more hours left, 3 orders needed for these mods. You don't even need the GreenTea alphas, you can use the mods with any DCS or Cherry profile alphas.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Thu, 09 October 2014, 12:56:08
Post by: Zeal on Thu, 09 October 2014, 13:55:29
Just because we're getting close, has there been an official parts needed list yet? The only info is just scattered randomly throughout this thread.
Yes, it would be nice to know what items need to be prepped. :) Are diodes still being sponsored by i3oiler, or will we have to prep them?
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 09 October 2014, 13:58:02
Just because we're getting close, has there been an official parts needed list yet? The only info is just scattered randomly throughout this thread.
Yes, it would be nice to know what items need to be prepped. :) Are diodes still being sponsored by i3oiler, or will we have to prep them?
I remember seeing something about stabilizers being supplied by someone as well? Is this accurate?
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 10 October 2014, 06:56:16
Post by: Skuloth on Fri, 10 October 2014, 07:04:24
i will be supplying stabilizers. i wouldn't worry too much about diodes. i think we can arrange to get them into the kits.
So that leaves USB port and cable, switches, keycaps. Anything else that I missed?
Edit: Teensy
Post by: strict on Fri, 10 October 2014, 07:28:04
i will be supplying stabilizers. i wouldn't worry too much about diodes. i think we can arrange to get them into the kits.
So that leaves USB port and cable, switches, keycaps. Anything else that I missed?
Edit: Teensy
Capslock LED stuff: 3mm T1 LED, Resistor, SIP Sockets (optional)
Post by: Skuloth on Fri, 10 October 2014, 15:52:06
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 10 October 2014, 18:39:06
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 10 October 2014, 18:40:24
Post by: byker on Fri, 10 October 2014, 19:10:55
have to apologize here. i'm currently the long pole. i'll keep everyone updated, but i just wandered into a project at work that is going to completely slam me for the next month and a half. grumble
Do we have an ETA on these being done?
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 10 October 2014, 21:26:48
the gasket lead time will be at least 3-4 weeks from order -- probably 5. this will be the first time i've worked with the anodizer, and because i've got other poles that are longer, i'm going to have samples dipped while i'm waiting for the requote. this facility is higher volume than i'm used to dealing with, and i've had communication issues with them. sample dips will confirm that they can be worked with and that they'll produce good product. this facility is fairly unique in that they can guarantee their colors, but there are a number of other new options that i've stumbled on while waiting for the cuts to be made. if it comes to it, i will move finishing away from this facility and back to one that i trust.
once all items are manufactured, massdrop has offered to donate kitting costs, which will cut fulfillment costs and get everyone their goods sooner.
when we ended up doing the final math on clearances, i ended up with a few more units than i expected. i will be using those to experiment with a few new finishing techniques that have been made available to us recently. watch for those, and thanks for your patience!
Post by: Skuloth on Sat, 11 October 2014, 13:21:42
9.7 x 3.7". 0.5" between top and bottom plate, nominal
Ah that sucks. Was hoping I would have space between the pcb and bottom plate to add in the hardware to add bluetooth functionality. Definitely doesn't seem like that will be possible.
Post by: Yslen on Sat, 11 October 2014, 13:31:44
You could just get longer spacers and go without the gasket?9.7 x 3.7". 0.5" between top and bottom plate, nominal
Ah that sucks. Was hoping I would have space between the pcb and bottom plate to add in the hardware to add bluetooth functionality. Definitely doesn't seem like that will be possible.
Post by: Skuloth on Sat, 11 October 2014, 13:33:59
You could just get longer spacers and go without the gasket?9.7 x 3.7". 0.5" between top and bottom plate, nominal
Ah that sucks. Was hoping I would have space between the pcb and bottom plate to add in the hardware to add bluetooth functionality. Definitely doesn't seem like that will be possible.
I had already been thinking that the gasket would cause issues. However, I'll have to wait until we get these in hand to see if using bigger spacers will make the keyboard uncomfortable to use or not.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 12 October 2014, 13:43:13
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sun, 12 October 2014, 15:18:54
you don't want to put the bluetooth antenna between two titanium plates anyway. i would look for a more creative mounting solution
If we could fit the hardware between the plates and then just make a simple antenna to wrap around the back/outside of the gasket, that would be perfect.
But alas, I know **** all about adapting something to use bluetooth.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 12 October 2014, 16:46:56
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sun, 12 October 2014, 18:34:30
do the adafruit bluefruit cans have antenna snaps on them? i thought they were 100% self-contained?
They dont, but it doesnt look hard to extend that little strip of built in antenna:
(http://www.adafruit.com/images/970x728/1588-00.jpg)
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 12 October 2014, 20:13:35
yes, you can still join the group buy! the stock levels on the website are accurate as to how many kits i will have parts to build, and how many are unsold. if you can order a kit on the website, you can order a kit.
Post by: tyvar1 on Tue, 14 October 2014, 14:14:52
Vote for which profile you want and also vote here http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/deep-space/ so it get tipped! :thumb:
(http://i.imgur.com/ZKmRAzY.png)
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 19 October 2014, 04:06:51
Booper (http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=profile;u=40027) here on GH having a IC atm for a JD40/The SmallFry keycap set: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=63768
Vote for which profile you want and also vote here http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/deep-space/ so it get tipped! :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZKmRAzY.png)
The color.... hmmmm... would prefer something more classic
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 24 October 2014, 18:59:46
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Fri, 24 October 2014, 20:39:56
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 28 October 2014, 10:07:14
Do you have any high quality pictures of mock ups? The ones on geekhackers is awful :(
We haven't really seen real shots of the gasket and titanium plates. The keyboard + plate shouldn't be overly different from the JD40s being sold by ctrlAlt and there are plenty of pictures of them in the wild if you look around.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 28 October 2014, 14:44:32
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 28 October 2014, 18:23:24
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
Post by: Zeal on Tue, 28 October 2014, 18:31:33
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
All these teasers...:))
Post by: GSimon on Tue, 28 October 2014, 22:06:51
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
Cool, well I'm stoked to see how this will turn out, will be truly be a one of a kind keyboard in the end :)
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 29 October 2014, 09:43:38
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
Will we get a chance to change our color choices after you sort out the new process? :O
Post by: Vibex on Wed, 29 October 2014, 10:34:59
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.Ooooooo, mysterious.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
Does this secret method have anything to do with what you were telling me and dorkvader about? If it is, everyone be super excited. ;) If not, be excited anyway. ;D
Post by: Zeal on Wed, 29 October 2014, 14:57:10
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.Ooooooo, mysterious.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
Does this secret method have anything to do with what you were telling me and dorkvader about? If it is, everyone be super excited. ;) If not, be excited anyway. ;D
Spill the beans~!! :p
Post by: Puddsy on Wed, 29 October 2014, 15:04:42
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.Ooooooo, mysterious.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
Does this secret method have anything to do with what you were telling me and dorkvader about? If it is, everyone be super excited. ;) If not, be excited anyway. ;D
Spill the beans~!! :p
That defeats the point of being a part of the Illuminati
I'm pretty sure I know what it is, though.
:Triangle:
Post by: tahuds on Wed, 29 October 2014, 15:55:49
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
So long as the boards are shipped by mid December I'm cool with this.
Post by: Vibex on Wed, 29 October 2014, 16:31:59
Spill the beans~!! :pUh uh, no spillers. :-X
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 29 October 2014, 18:12:35
Post by: PandaSPUR on Thu, 30 October 2014, 08:16:26
also, the gasket folks proved empirically that they actually can't urethane coat this part. it's going to have to be PTFE. I'm going to see if there's anything i can do to prevent the kind of wear and defect that vibex experienced with his sample based on a couple of ptfe coated samples (which look great)
Aw damn. Well, given the DIY nature of this kit, I'm sure individuals will probably find their own solutions if necessary :P
I'm already thinking about ordering a vinyl wrap to surround the gasket.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 30 October 2014, 08:39:09
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Sat, 08 November 2014, 10:34:54
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 08 November 2014, 13:16:23
in detail:
- soft gasket squeezes out more and is more prone to being damaged, so i asked for a harder formulation with a ptfe coating. if this feels like it won't wear well to me, i'll have vinyl gasket protectors cut. i suspect this is less dire than it has been made out to be though, the original sample that vibex found the bug in was pretty far from the gaskets we're going to get.
- the plates are going to be 'painted' instead of being anodized. the paint is a ceramic coating commonly used on guns. we should be able to match the anodize colors with more translucency. i'm going to give the painter some latitude on this one, as i trust her completely to deliver.
- fastener and pcb lead-time is short. i can decrease gasket lead time by paying for more molds, especially after we nail the formulation. thankfully, i made slightly fewer molds than they originally wanted me to make just in case, so this won't be a deal killer. the material is finally cut (long story short, spaceX had a launch deadline..), so working out coloring is next.
- i may have boilermaker sort a few hundred thousand diodes while we're waiting for all of this to happen.
huge apologies to everyone for how long this has taken. when i started this, i had no idea what was going to happen in my life (3 moves in 3 months, the last across the country!) and had to drop off the face of the earth for a couple of those months to keep my sanity.
in retrospect the ultimate size of this ended up being the issue. i expected to move maybe 20 units, and it ended up being nearly 80. it's a lot easier to do experimental production of 20 units of product than 80 :P. just ask spacex (we share a pretty crucial shop for me :O)
Post by: byker on Sat, 08 November 2014, 13:24:50
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 08 November 2014, 13:46:58
the upside is that this coloring option only became an option very recently. the downside is that it's experimental squared. but i'd rather work with a short-cycle experimenter that is a proven partner than a shop that won't give me the time of day.
there's also the fact that i currently own one fork, one spoon and two bowls. i literally had to take a day of work to set up my desktop in a place that wasn't next to my mattress (which doesn't have anything under it, in case you're wondering). i wouldn't live a life that wasn't exciting, but juggling lots of knives means dropping and stabbing yourself sometimes.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 08 November 2014, 13:48:24
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sat, 08 November 2014, 13:56:02
there's also the fact that i currently own one fork, one spoon and two bowls.
I found the non-metaphorical statement! Do I win a prize? :P
Post by: byker on Sat, 08 November 2014, 13:58:57
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 08 November 2014, 14:07:14
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 11 November 2014, 15:48:47
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 11 November 2014, 15:49:41
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 11 November 2014, 15:50:52
Post by: byker on Tue, 11 November 2014, 16:00:59
I would imagine most of us will be happy as long as the plates look good, and the pcbs work xD
Hell yeah! I guess the gasket is cool, but I like the looks of the jd40 without the gasket anyways. :)
Post by: r3nfr0 on Tue, 11 November 2014, 16:01:40
Post by: tbc on Tue, 11 November 2014, 16:12:02
Post by: geniekid on Tue, 11 November 2014, 16:13:20
Also it sounds like you could use a drink, mkawa :))
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 11 November 2014, 19:43:13
if we're forced to do 40 duro ptfe coated gaskets, i'm going to give people the option not to get one with the basic warning that with wear the polyurethane inner can adhere to objects and potentially act as an abrasive. we'll see if they can run 50 duro ptfe in the same mold. if they can, it'll have a bit more shrinkage and a bit less squish.
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Sun, 16 November 2014, 07:07:32
Post by: Spopepro on Mon, 17 November 2014, 02:07:13
100-150microns. coating thickness is negligible....
To put this in perspective, this coating method is popular for firearms. There are many very small interference fit pins in most firearms, and no provision is needed. You drill the same hole whether you are using the coating or not. It is hard to imagine how thin it really is. It also does not wear on slides. Impressive stuff and overboard high-performance for a keyboard.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 17 November 2014, 19:37:07
first, the branded coating requires a significantly more precise blasting chamber than is typically used in parts cleaning or powdercoating. the blasting chamber needs to be able to produce controlled reductions in the 100-300 mics range Ra (a statistical measure of surface roughness).
next, the coating process is _wet_. acrylic powdercoating is accomplished by creating a voltage differential between a powder and the object to be coated such that the two attract. you then melt the acrylic while under charge so that it coats the surface. the acrylic particles are fairly large and the process is really only self-leveling if you assume a perfect sphere and even then, only to an integral number of particles. (in reaction, many precise powdercoating shops have started using a 'fluidizing' process. the basic idea is that bulk particulates can start behaving like bulk fluids if you toss enough kinetic energy at them. but, instead of using electrical charge to stick the fluidized powder to the object, you usually get the object really hot and then spray or dip it.)
the ceramic coating is a wet thermoset polymer that starts out as a liquid resin with ceramic structures and/or particles in suspension. the polymer liquid can have much smaller polymer structures than a thermoplastic powdered solid. further, the ceramic portion is extremely hard even when layered at a couple molecules thick. finally, actual liquids are actually self-leveling. hence, this particular ceramic composite can be used to consistently coat many more types of surfaces with a highly controllable layer thickness.
THE END... OR IS IT?!
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 17 November 2014, 20:19:06
to be pedantic (ahahaha when am i not), very precisely machined firearms are machined to tolerances of about 50 mics, particularly for things like small pins that determine trigger tension, and so on. the trick is that the process is two parts, and it's not electrostatic.
first, the branded coating requires a significantly more precise blasting chamber than is typically used in parts cleaning or powdercoating. the blasting chamber needs to be able to produce controlled reductions in the 100-300 mics range Ra (a statistical measure of surface roughness).
next, the coating process is _wet_. acrylic powdercoating is accomplished by creating a voltage differential between a powder and the object to be coated such that the two attract. you then melt the acrylic while under charge so that it coats the surface. the acrylic particles are fairly large and the process is really only self-leveling if you assume a perfect sphere and even then, only to an integral number of particles. (in reaction, many precise powdercoating shops have started using a 'fluidizing' process. the basic idea is that bulk particulates can start behaving like bulk fluids if you toss enough kinetic energy at them. but, instead of using electrical charge to stick the fluidized powder to the object, you usually get the object really hot and then spray or dip it.)
the ceramic coating is a wet thermoset polymer that starts out as a liquid resin with ceramic structures and/or particles in suspension. the polymer liquid can have much smaller polymer structures than a thermoplastic powdered solid. further, the ceramic portion is extremely hard even when layered at a couple molecules thick. finally, actual liquids are actually self-leveling. hence, this particular ceramic composite can be used to consistently coat many more types of surfaces with a highly controllable layer thickness.
THE END... OR IS IT?!
Very cool info there mkawa. However, my big question is this. Is it a true no bake cure process or is it just "low temp bake"?
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 18 November 2014, 20:43:45
also interesting is that a single pass is listed as typically producing a 5 to 10 micron coating
that is bat**** insane right there.
also super interesting is the singular sentence "electrostatic application may be an option". i don't know if this is with certain formulations or with certain parts or at high potential difference or what, but that could help lower Ra so that you're getting like a 10 +- 1 micron coating. that's crazy
Post by: Melvang on Tue, 18 November 2014, 20:58:14
checking out some datasheets, it looks like the basic formulation is a room temperature initial cure with a 300f final bake. it's single part, so there's no catalyst. it looks like there is some kind of room temperature reaction, i'm guessing that this is for adhesion or a leveling skin or something and then a low temperature heated reaction that cures the remainder?
also interesting is that a single pass is listed as typically producing a 5 to 10 micron coating
that is bat**** insane right there.
also super interesting is the singular sentence "electrostatic application may be an option". i don't know if this is with certain formulations or with certain parts or at high potential difference or what, but that could help lower Ra so that you're getting like a 10 +- 1 micron coating. that's crazy
Very intersting but where I was heading is would this be possible to do to caps.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 18 November 2014, 21:00:12
so yes, definitely possible.
Post by: Melvang on Tue, 18 November 2014, 21:06:18
there are room temperature set formulations. check out the C-series firearm coatings.
so yes, definitely possible.
I wonder how well that would work as stem lubrication and/or how it would feel as a coating on the top of caps.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Thu, 20 November 2014, 13:11:08
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 20 November 2014, 13:32:55
Post by: tahuds on Thu, 20 November 2014, 17:32:40
Post by: sypl on Sat, 22 November 2014, 10:50:58
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Sat, 22 November 2014, 20:57:10
correct!
Slightly off topic, mkawa, do you know if I would be able to laser engrave the keyboard, even with the cerakote? I want to know if it is possible as I've just gotten access to a laser printer.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 23 November 2014, 19:47:57
unfortunately, getting into holiday territory means that things move even slower :\. shipments take longer, shops go on vacation, etc. i've decided that i'm going to start mailing plates alone and pcbs if i have them (coordinating with ctrlalt on this one) to domestic customers as soon as soon as i have them. so, packages with only raw plates will go out first. then, colored plates, as rainbow turns things around quickly. finally, i'll resolve this mess with the gasket and as soon as the pcbs come in, i'll send those out with teensies to domestic customers.
domestic customers won't be charged for the additional shipping. unfortunately, the cost of shipping even tiny little parts internationally makes it prohibitive to send most things out piecemeal. if you have a special circumstance, eg you _only_ need plates and you're international, please let me know asap so i can mark your order and get it out as soon as parts come in.
which brings us to the question: will this kit ever be produced again? the answer is that it will never happen at this scale, ever. you would think i would have learned my lesson from those panavises but i'm very good at repeating my mistakes XD
Post by: cjhard on Sun, 23 November 2014, 20:03:25
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sun, 23 November 2014, 20:04:00
Post by: Ceedog on Sun, 23 November 2014, 20:12:38
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 23 November 2014, 20:54:47
in fact, cerakote, being a kind of paint, has an insane number of available colors:
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/
that said, what rainbow and i will be doing is choosing 6 finishes that are the best looking approximation of the 6 colors the anodizer used. as much fun as it would be to let people pick any color they wanted, as you can see from the link, cerakote is really really expensive. so we're going to keep it down to six. by far the largest contingent is gray, which will help keep things manageable, but i'll be working with rainbow to see what they have stock of that we can use and what we will have to buy.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 23 November 2014, 21:01:26
anodizing titanium actually tends to produce rainbows. i chose the anodizer based on their claimed ability to process 6 uniform colors without rainbowing. communications after the quote however did not inspire much confidence.
in fact, cerakote, being a kind of paint, has an insane number of available colors:
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/
that said, what rainbow and i will be doing is choosing 6 finishes that are the best looking approximation of the 6 colors the anodizer used. as much fun as it would be to let people pick any color they wanted, as you can see from the link, cerakote is really really expensive. so we're going to keep it down to six. by far the largest contingent is gray, which will help keep things manageable, but i'll be working with rainbow to see what they have stock of that we can use and what we will have to buy.
I'm confused. Will we still be getting the colours we selected before? If not, what colours will we be getting?
Post by: Skuloth on Sun, 23 November 2014, 21:13:37
anodizing titanium actually tends to produce rainbows. i chose the anodizer based on their claimed ability to process 6 uniform colors without rainbowing. communications after the quote however did not inspire much confidence.
in fact, cerakote, being a kind of paint, has an insane number of available colors:
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/
that said, what rainbow and i will be doing is choosing 6 finishes that are the best looking approximation of the 6 colors the anodizer used. as much fun as it would be to let people pick any color they wanted, as you can see from the link, cerakote is really really expensive. so we're going to keep it down to six. by far the largest contingent is gray, which will help keep things manageable, but i'll be working with rainbow to see what they have stock of that we can use and what we will have to buy.
I'm confused. Will we still be getting the colours we selected before? If not, what colours will we be getting?
Sounds like we will be getting the closest color match to the one's we selected.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 23 November 2014, 21:22:49
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sun, 23 November 2014, 21:23:41
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 24 November 2014, 00:18:47
laser engraving of titanium is going to be problematic, as it will cause rainbowing from oxidization at the focal point. having to burn through the cerakote means turning the power up, which will only make this problem worse.
unfortunately, getting into holiday territory means that things move even slower :\. shipments take longer, shops go on vacation, etc. i've decided that i'm going to start mailing plates alone and pcbs if i have them (coordinating with ctrlalt on this one) to domestic customers as soon as soon as i have them. so, packages with only raw plates will go out first. then, colored plates, as rainbow turns things around quickly. finally, i'll resolve this mess with the gasket and as soon as the pcbs come in, i'll send those out with teensies to domestic customers.
domestic customers won't be charged for the additional shipping. unfortunately, the cost of shipping even tiny little parts internationally makes it prohibitive to send most things out piecemeal. if you have a special circumstance, eg you _only_ need plates and you're international, please let me know asap so i can mark your order and get it out as soon as parts come in.
which brings us to the question: will this kit ever be produced again? the answer is that it will never happen at this scale, ever. you would think i would have learned my lesson from those panavises but i'm very good at repeating my mistakes XD
I am excited to hear this. I'm so excited to finally get started building my JD40.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 24 November 2014, 19:43:48
As long as I can get those GREEN plates to match the green tea keycap set I ordered!you have no idea how excited i am to pick a seafoam semi-translucent cerakote color. OH GOD SO MANY BEAUTIFUL COLORS!!!!
Post by: byker on Mon, 24 November 2014, 19:50:16
As long as I can get those GREEN plates to match the green tea keycap set I ordered!you have no idea how excited i am to pick a seafoam semi-translucent cerakote color. OH GOD SO MANY BEAUTIFUL COLORS!!!!
Can you let us know when we should repick our colours. I need to take a look once the new ones are decided. :thumb:
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Mon, 24 November 2014, 20:03:28
As long as I can get those GREEN plates to match the green tea keycap set I ordered!you have no idea how excited i am to pick a seafoam semi-translucent cerakote color. OH GOD SO MANY BEAUTIFUL COLORS!!!!
Can you let us know when we should repick our colours. I need to take a look once the new ones are decided. :thumb:
Same here, can we also choose colors from the website?
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 24 November 2014, 20:36:01
that said, if you want to take your plates raw and send them separately to rainbow paint & blast to color, you will pay a heck of a lot extra, but you can get any cerakote color you want on your plates. suggestion? mini-gb the coloring. if you can find a few people willing to share the cost of the paint itself (a lot, unfortunately), the blasting cost and the cost of painting a separate small batch, then by all means go for it. i don't want to stifle people's creativity here. i just want to keep myself and rainbowrpb(.com) sane on the large batch i have to process.
ps, i send small batches for powdering to rainbow all the time and i find their pricing to be reasonable (and i run some weird stuff through them), the quality top notch and the turnaround to be as fast or slow as you need. tammi at rainbow is awesome, and is always happy to help geekhackers. we've both been incredibly excited about the cerakote process (sooo many exhaust parts). you can see some of her work on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rainbow-Paint-Blasting-Inc/337716255868
Post by: byker on Mon, 24 November 2014, 21:37:16
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 24 November 2014, 21:50:09
Post by: tbc on Mon, 24 November 2014, 22:08:50
i plan on using the board mobilely around the house, which means that i'm going to more often than not have it place it on my lap and in my hands. anodized metal is fine, but if it's rough like the paint on my walls, it's going to really irritate me.
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 24 November 2014, 22:12:02
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 25 November 2014, 06:40:33
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 25 November 2014, 07:08:07
Post by: Vibex on Tue, 25 November 2014, 09:53:40
oh, and i got the latest batch of samples from sorbothane. 80 duro is NOT STICKY! and it feels great and won't wander around or squish as much as the old ones did. GREAT SUCCESS!YEAHHHHHHHH! ;D
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 25 November 2014, 10:23:59
I ordered Vector Purple / Aqua. Will I get Vector Purple / Aqua, or something "close"?
Will you be collecting samples of the color options and then giving us some time to re-pick our colors if we're unsatisfied?
(http://i.imgur.com/kfgKbcp.png)
Post by: byker on Tue, 25 November 2014, 12:14:58
I'm still confused. Can you be more explicit about the color process?
I ordered Vector Purple / Aqua. Will I get Vector Purple / Aqua, or something "close"?
Will you be collecting samples of the color options and then giving us some time to re-pick our colors if we're unsatisfied?
This is what I would like. Especially as we are going from 12 colours down to 6 right?
Post by: Vibex on Tue, 25 November 2014, 12:23:20
Yeah me too.I'm still confused. Can you be more explicit about the color process?
I ordered Vector Purple / Aqua. Will I get Vector Purple / Aqua, or something "close"?
Will you be collecting samples of the color options and then giving us some time to re-pick our colors if we're unsatisfied?
This is what I would like. Especially as we are going from 12 colours down to 6 right?
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 25 November 2014, 18:37:15
i'm completely playing it by ear right now, and i can't say much yet without talking to both shops. hoad on folks, we'll all converge shortly and if there is any significant input needed from you guys, i will get the word out. what i'm hoping to do is stay within current costing and color schemes while changing the process. if that's not possible, you will hear from me. at 6 colors, i was pretty sure it was. at 12, i have to dig.
just the paint costs for 12qts of cerakote is around 1200$, and then on top of that you have shop costs, which i only have quoted at 6 colors. if we don't actually have to buy 12 full qts, we'll be way ahead of the game, so stay tuned. the upshot here is that tammi is a painting and powdering genius and i 100% trust she'll fix my screw-ups for me. for example, the three blues may be just 1, 2 and 3 coats of a standard stock blue. since the coats are ridiculously thin and often don't need to be heated to cure, you have a heck of a lot more latitude than with powdering, and you don't have to solve a hundred simultaneous non-analytical equations to anodize to one of three blue colors (i still have no idea how danco can claim to anodize to that many colors.. and i probably never will, i guess).
on the upside, packing and shipping the plates is going to be a heck of a lot less than if they were powdered; cerakote is significantly more durable.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 25 November 2014, 20:27:24
ack! sorry, for some reason i thought danco offered only 6 colors. 12 is trickier, but if it's 12 it's 12. i probably won't be able to touch base with tammi until next week, and more importantly, i only have 6 samples for her to spray. let me do some digging when people get back into their shops next week. there may still be some significant droppings sitting around at the cutters that i can get to rainbow for swatches.
i'm completely playing it by ear right now, and i can't say much yet without talking to both shops. hoad on folks, we'll all converge shortly and if there is any significant input needed from you guys, i will get the word out. what i'm hoping to do is stay within current costing and color schemes while changing the process. if that's not possible, you will hear from me. at 6 colors, i was pretty sure it was. at 12, i have to dig.
just the paint costs for 12qts of cerakote is around 1200$, and then on top of that you have shop costs, which i only have quoted at 6 colors. if we don't actually have to buy 12 full qts, we'll be way ahead of the game, so stay tuned. the upshot here is that tammi is a painting and powdering genius and i 100% trust she'll fix my screw-ups for me. for example, the three blues may be just 1, 2 and 3 coats of a standard stock blue. since the coats are ridiculously thin and often don't need to be heated to cure, you have a heck of a lot more latitude than with powdering, and you don't have to solve a hundred simultaneous non-analytical equations to anodize to one of three blue colors (i still have no idea how danco can claim to anodize to that many colors.. and i probably never will, i guess).
on the upside, packing and shipping the plates is going to be a heck of a lot less than if they were powdered; cerakote is significantly more durable.
Thanks for the update!
So until you get samples, we dont get to choose to change our color choice?
I picked raw but might change my mind if we have new/different color choices since its a different process.
Post by: byker on Tue, 25 November 2014, 20:33:08
ack! sorry, for some reason i thought danco offered only 6 colors. 12 is trickier, but if it's 12 it's 12. i probably won't be able to touch base with tammi until next week, and more importantly, i only have 6 samples for her to spray. let me do some digging when people get back into their shops next week. there may still be some significant droppings sitting around at the cutters that i can get to rainbow for swatches.
i'm completely playing it by ear right now, and i can't say much yet without talking to both shops. hoad on folks, we'll all converge shortly and if there is any significant input needed from you guys, i will get the word out. what i'm hoping to do is stay within current costing and color schemes while changing the process. if that's not possible, you will hear from me. at 6 colors, i was pretty sure it was. at 12, i have to dig.
just the paint costs for 12qts of cerakote is around 1200$, and then on top of that you have shop costs, which i only have quoted at 6 colors. if we don't actually have to buy 12 full qts, we'll be way ahead of the game, so stay tuned. the upshot here is that tammi is a painting and powdering genius and i 100% trust she'll fix my screw-ups for me. for example, the three blues may be just 1, 2 and 3 coats of a standard stock blue. since the coats are ridiculously thin and often don't need to be heated to cure, you have a heck of a lot more latitude than with powdering, and you don't have to solve a hundred simultaneous non-analytical equations to anodize to one of three blue colors (i still have no idea how danco can claim to anodize to that many colors.. and i probably never will, i guess).
on the upside, packing and shipping the plates is going to be a heck of a lot less than if they were powdered; cerakote is significantly more durable.
I am also fairly confident that we could narrow down the list from 12 colours. For instance, have all 12 colours even been picked yet?
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 25 November 2014, 21:35:27
as far as you guys are concerned, for now, there are 12 colors. icc numbers are specified. we are going to get as close to those colors as is feasible. because tammi's an awesome painter, i don't expect _anyone_ to be let down by the colors that come out of the process. the icc color space (well, no color space really..) can't take into account the really important bits of color and color perception. there are odd refractive and quantum things happening, particularly with a material like titanium, and with an epoxy ceramic composite on top of it, that are impossible to exactly characterize.
jacobulus is fully capable and happy to go into a three hour lecture on this topic. i am just going to shrug a bit and make sure everything that comes out looks great.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 01 December 2014, 07:40:46
eta: basically, you're going to get a colored top plate of completely unknown, potentially multiple colors, and a gray bottom plate.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 01 December 2014, 09:52:34
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 01 December 2014, 09:53:31
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 03 December 2014, 22:52:02
i THINK raw plates will either make christmas or miss it by a week at most. colored plates are NOT going to make xmas.
My order is for raw plates, but I'm curious to see how the cerakote options/samples turn out. So could I delay my order?
Post by: IMHB on Fri, 05 December 2014, 22:42:52
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sat, 06 December 2014, 15:18:25
soooo... do we have an estimate on how long the wait is going to be?
Reading is not your strong suit, I assume.
Post by: tbc on Sat, 06 December 2014, 15:21:16
soooo... do we have an estimate on how long the wait is going to be?
Reading is not your strong suit, I assume.
well mkawa only actually mentioned a lower bound for the colored plates. maybe he's just looking for an upper bound. 3 months after xmas is different than 6 months.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sat, 06 December 2014, 15:24:04
soooo... do we have an estimate on how long the wait is going to be?
Reading is not your strong suit, I assume.
well mkawa only actually mentioned a lower bound for the colored plates. maybe he's just looking for an upper bound. 3 months after xmas is different than 6 months.
Fair enough, I assumed the guy was asking for a general estimate since he didnt specify whether he was asking about raw plates or colored plates.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 06 December 2014, 16:14:35
yah, just select a color, any color, on the google form. you can change it before i get the colored plates all painted.i THINK raw plates will either make christmas or miss it by a week at most. colored plates are NOT going to make xmas.
My order is for raw plates, but I'm curious to see how the cerakote options/samples turn out. So could I delay my order?
please don't tell people to RTFM :[, this is a long thread for a project with an unexpectedly very long lead time. it's ok for people to be asking for etas. heck, if hoffman hadn't spoken up, i'd still be speccing out for only 6 colors :eek:
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 06 December 2014, 21:11:22
http://deskthority.net/final-vote-f84/best-space-saving-or-compact-keyboard-2014-t9311.html
Post by: Melvang on Sat, 06 December 2014, 22:18:01
If you like my JD40 keyboard, around which this group buy is based, please vote for it in the Deskthority Awards. :)
http://deskthority.net/final-vote-f84/best-space-saving-or-compact-keyboard-2014-t9311.html
I voted for the JD40
Post by: byker on Sat, 06 December 2014, 22:19:15
If you like my JD40 keyboard, around which this group buy is based, please vote for it in the Deskthority Awards. :)
http://deskthority.net/final-vote-f84/best-space-saving-or-compact-keyboard-2014-t9311.html
I voted for you too JD! :-*
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sun, 07 December 2014, 01:15:05
yah, just select a color, any color, on the google form. you can change it before i get the colored plates all painted.i THINK raw plates will either make christmas or miss it by a week at most. colored plates are NOT going to make xmas.
My order is for raw plates, but I'm curious to see how the cerakote options/samples turn out. So could I delay my order?
please don't tell people to RTFM :[, this is a long thread for a project with an unexpectedly very long lead time. it's ok for people to be asking for etas. heck, if hoffman hadn't spoken up, i'd still be speccing out for only 6 colors :eek:
Got it, will do.
And my bad lol, it just bothers me when people ask about stuff that was answered just a few posts up, but that wasnt the case here. So yea, I'll be more patient with impatience :P
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Sun, 07 December 2014, 20:47:01
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 08 December 2014, 07:47:43
If you like my JD40 keyboard, around which this group buy is based, please vote for it in the Deskthority Awards. :)
http://deskthority.net/final-vote-f84/best-space-saving-or-compact-keyboard-2014-t9311.html
:thumb:
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 08 December 2014, 07:47:54
Can we see the mockups for the cerakote before making final decisions on our plates?yep
Post by: r3nfr0 on Tue, 09 December 2014, 22:22:42
Any suggestions?
Post by: r3nfr0 on Tue, 09 December 2014, 22:32:47
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 10 December 2014, 07:32:10
Post by: Grendel on Wed, 10 December 2014, 13:31:00
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 10 December 2014, 13:36:33
Hm, Zombie Green, S&W Red, Armor Black, Low Gloss Armor Clear, .. so many choices :) Need to find the link to the color order form..
http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy)
Post by: Grendel on Wed, 10 December 2014, 13:49:37
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 11 December 2014, 08:41:29
anyway, the raw plates will be on their way to me either tomorrow or monday
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 11 December 2014, 08:44:04
Post by: geniekid on Thu, 11 December 2014, 09:19:28
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 11 December 2014, 17:42:06
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 12 December 2014, 07:02:23
i will put up a form shortly to request a gasket. you can either get a gasket or a two-sided spacer stud. the combination of gasket _and_ spacer stud is kind of silly :P
Post by: r3nfr0 on Fri, 12 December 2014, 07:13:27
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 12 December 2014, 07:43:39
Post by: r3nfr0 on Fri, 12 December 2014, 07:44:23
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 12 December 2014, 08:11:28
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 12 December 2014, 12:20:17
awesome! PM me. i need to grab the part number from JD, but i suspect i can cover the remainder if you'd like to donate. woohoo! thanks folks for being so awesome.
I will cover another $50 if needed after the initial $100 from r3nfr0.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 12 December 2014, 14:47:41
Post by: Greeeg on Fri, 12 December 2014, 18:34:40
I wouldn't mind having a second keyboard to play around with. You mention a fortnight ago you had 5/6 kits left. I assume since they're not out of stock on geekhackers there are some left, so I've placed an order.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 12 December 2014, 18:58:47
fun fact! there is an atmega128/256 variant with a BLE on-chip. part number is atmega256rfr2. there is a ~30x30mm canned dev board with a chip amp available too. part number is:
http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-42191-Wireless-ZigBit-ATZB-S1-256-3-0-C_Datasheet.pdf
with an appropriate firmware (TMK with code that implements BT4.0) this would subsume the teensy entirely.
i'm also pretty intrigued by the chip that the pebblebee uses: the csr101x series
http://www.csr.com/products/csr101x-product-family
these are single chip BLE + MCU + RF ant SoCs with a proprietary 16-bit risc MCU that uses the completely unknown to me XAP ISA. it's slow but incredibly power efficient and runs at < 3v and have power reg circuitry onboard. the newest revisions also have direct support for li-poly cells as current sources, which they then reg into voltage sources. this is basically how you have to use li-polys, because their voltages are highly variable, especially in prismatic packaging. the chip comes in packages as small as 4x4mm 32pin qfp
Post by: Greeeg on Fri, 12 December 2014, 19:31:01
yep, just got it.
fun fact! there is an atmega128/256 variant with a BLE on-chip. part number is atmega256rfr2. there is a ~30x30mm canned dev board with a chip amp available too. part number is:
http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-42191-Wireless-ZigBit-ATZB-S1-256-3-0-C_Datasheet.pdf
with an appropriate firmware (TMK with code that implements BT4.0) this would subsume the teensy entirely.
i'm also pretty intrigued by the chip that the pebblebee uses: the csr101x series
http://www.csr.com/products/csr101x-product-family
these are single chip BLE + MCU + RF ant SoCs with a proprietary 16-bit risc MCU that uses the completely unknown to me XAP ISA. it's slow but incredibly power efficient and runs at < 3v and have power reg circuitry onboard. the newest revisions also have direct support for li-poly cells as current sources, which they then reg into voltage sources. this is basically how you have to use li-polys, because their voltages are highly variable, especially in prismatic packaging. the chip comes in packages as small as 4x4mm 32pin qfp
Interesting, Some of the new SoC's are quite amazing parts.
My current design is using a TI CC2542 BLE 4.0 + 8051 MCU.
Mainly because the abundance of low cost breakout boards.
The device has enough I/O pins that I am hoping that I can just use the single chip. But I'm waiting for the keyboards to fully test it out.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 12 December 2014, 19:51:37
i'm definitely interested to know if you can hack up a matrix scan plus HID device for the 8051 in a reasonable amount of time. luckily, there's enough room for both the atmega and a bluetooth module. the only thing i can think of otherwise is that both the PU and titanium are going to block RF like crazy. you're going to want to run your antenna around the edge of the keyboard or something.
oh, the other thing is that there's a ton of room in there for a AAA battery pack, and definitely a huge amount of room for a prismatic lithium cell. you can heatsink the cell on the bottom plate as well, so woop woop!
Post by: Skuloth on Fri, 12 December 2014, 21:09:01
My Bluetooth mod is coming together, (basically just a teensy sized board with a battery charger and bluetooth module)
I wouldn't mind having a second keyboard to play around with. You mention a fortnight ago you had 5/6 kits left. I assume since they're not out of stock on geekhackers there are some left, so I've placed an order.
I'm definitely interested in the outcome of this. I'm looking to do something similar and only had slasher's HHKB + Teensy + bluetooth stuff to go off of.
Post by: Grendel on Fri, 12 December 2014, 22:22:17
fun fact! there is an atmega128/256 variant with a BLE on-chip. part number is atmega256rfr2. there is a ~30x30mm canned dev board with a chip amp available too. part number is:
http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-42191-Wireless-ZigBit-ATZB-S1-256-3-0-C_Datasheet.pdf
$36.90 on a dev board @ DigiKey (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ATZB-256RFR2-XPRO/ATZB-256RFR2-XPRO-ND/4576356). See if I can sneak one into the DigiKey order at work..
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 13 December 2014, 06:31:09
Post by: tbc on Sat, 13 December 2014, 14:24:03
my tablet only has one port and i need it for charging, so this is important for me lol. :)
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 15 December 2014, 18:50:51
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 16 December 2014, 12:56:17
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 17 December 2014, 08:28:46
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Wed, 17 December 2014, 15:59:45
I'm going to make a ****ty wrist rest, that will not match out with the color scheme.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 17 December 2014, 16:50:45
anyway, i don't want to get anyone too excited, because i'm completely swamped into the foreseeable future but
Post by: Melvang on Wed, 17 December 2014, 16:53:00
i've broached the topic of a 40% rest with noko, actually.
anyway, i don't want to get anyone too excited, because i'm completely swamped into the foreseeable future but
Almost as sexy as my Beige Whale aka Moby Click.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 17 December 2014, 17:45:31
Post by: r3nfr0 on Wed, 17 December 2014, 17:46:25
Post by: Ceedog on Wed, 17 December 2014, 17:47:30
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 17 December 2014, 17:47:47
Post by: Melvang on Wed, 17 December 2014, 17:52:27
Post by: byker on Wed, 17 December 2014, 18:38:57
Post by: Skuloth on Wed, 17 December 2014, 19:00:22
I am so conflicted! :-\ Do I go raw, because they look great, or do I get coloured?
Colored.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 17 December 2014, 22:45:52
The plates with switch removal cutouts were produced as such, correct? It's been awhile since that part of the GB went down, so I'm just verifying.i can only get the standard square cutout plates out at the moment. the switch removal plates that were cut are being used to test the painting method and colors. another run will be produced after the new year.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 17 December 2014, 23:05:28
Post by: Ceedog on Wed, 17 December 2014, 23:09:48
Post by: Melvang on Wed, 17 December 2014, 23:14:25
there's no point covering raw titanium with a paint color called "titanium".
Unless the coating being applied has abrasion, or friction properties that the substrate lacks. But for this project that is way out of the realm of feasibility.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 18 December 2014, 07:41:39
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Thu, 18 December 2014, 07:48:06
Post by: Zeal on Thu, 18 December 2014, 13:00:10
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6r0u51g4tikj4m1/_PRO2880.JPG?dl=0
Titanium chopping block! :p
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 18 December 2014, 17:24:57
mkawa please don't ship order number 1118 (I think,will have to check). I'm still deciding on my plate colorsk, noted.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 21 December 2014, 07:23:31
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dr7owr20p20hxhd/2014-12-21%2006.16.00.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ksp5d8ldtoj5lg/2014-12-21%2006.15.25.jpg?dl=0
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 21 December 2014, 07:24:05
Post by: strict on Sun, 21 December 2014, 09:20:38
Seeing those pics really makes me wish I had ordered some. Do the front and the back of the plates both look like that?
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sun, 21 December 2014, 09:35:06
I think the DEEP SPACE keycaps should be here in late February/early March, so I hope this project wraps up by then!
Post by: taylordcraig on Sun, 21 December 2014, 12:05:50
The plates with switch removal cutouts were produced as such, correct? It's been awhile since that part of the GB went down, so I'm just verifying.i can only get the standard square cutout plates out at the moment. the switch removal plates that were cut are being used to test the painting method and colors. another run will be produced after the new year.
So upgrade kits will be going out later?
if I've left my color blank, I'll get a clear coat right?
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 21 December 2014, 19:45:10
Holy **** do those ever look good! As someone whose handled his fair share of keyboard plates recently, those are absolutely amazing :eek:
Seeing those pics really makes me wish I had ordered some. Do the front and the back of the plates both look like that?
no, for cost reasons, i only had one side of each sheet ground like that.
the only plates that will be getting a clearcoat are the TITAN GRAY color option. it won't be a glossy clearcoat though. it will be a matte clearcoat (to make it grayer). the raw titan oiled like in the above pictures will be the glossiest finish
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 21 December 2014, 19:48:35
Post by: Greeeg on Sun, 21 December 2014, 23:33:00
To vent some of my excitement, I opened up my box of spare caps.
[attach=1]
Post by: taylordcraig on Mon, 22 December 2014, 10:26:06
Holy **** do those ever look good! As someone whose handled his fair share of keyboard plates recently, those are absolutely amazing :eek:
Seeing those pics really makes me wish I had ordered some. Do the front and the back of the plates both look like that?
no, for cost reasons, i only had one side of each sheet ground like that.
the only plates that will be getting a clearcoat are the TITAN GRAY color option. it won't be a glossy clearcoat though. it will be a matte clearcoat (to make it grayer). the raw titan oiled like in the above pictures will be the glossiest finish
well those photos look awesome, do mine like that. :P
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 22 December 2014, 16:42:59
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 22 December 2014, 16:43:35
Post by: Grendel on Mon, 22 December 2014, 16:45:36
get your "raw titan" color choice in quick please! :)
I did :) Altho I also upgraded to a notched plate back in the days :/
Edit: oops, n/m. Wanted (and changed to) "Titan Grey", not "Raw"...
Post by: taylordcraig on Tue, 23 December 2014, 11:44:26
get your "raw titan" color choice in quick please! :)
raw titan is glossy like in those pictures right? and titan grey is the more matte color?
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 24 December 2014, 12:08:31
get your "raw titan" color choice in quick please! :)
raw titan is glossy like in those pictures right? and titan grey is the more matte color?
yep!
and if you filled out the google form, even multiple times, i have your color choices.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 29 December 2014, 06:32:48
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 29 December 2014, 06:34:11
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 29 December 2014, 06:41:24
Post by: zflamewing on Mon, 29 December 2014, 08:37:41
grumble grumble. i'm packing washing, oiling and packing up the raw titan plates now. USB connectors came in. working on the run of notched plates and with the coater on colors. the coater thinks some colors will need to be powders instead of cerakote in order to make all 12 colors. i trust her judgement on that, so we'll focus on getting the coating thin enough to not mess with the tolerances. there is separate value in working on how to use translucent powders on these plates for future product anyway, so the mix is not a bad idea. she is 100% on the matte clear as ceramic, and i've found some really really good greens, but the lighter colors like the light blues and bronze and gold will probably be powders.
I know it might come off as a darker bronze than intended but what about Cerakote burnt bronze? When I heard Cerakote was going to be the coloring choice I was kind of hoping that bronze users might get Burnt Bronze. If it ends up being a cost thing I can understand that.
Will there be time for people to change color options after the decision has been made on which colors will be powder coated vs Cerakote?
Post by: tahuds on Mon, 29 December 2014, 11:17:44
grumble grumble. i'm packing washing, oiling and packing up the raw titan plates now. USB connectors came in. working on the run of notched plates and with the coater on colors. the coater thinks some colors will need to be powders instead of cerakote in order to make all 12 colors. i trust her judgement on that, so we'll focus on getting the coating thin enough to not mess with the tolerances. there is separate value in working on how to use translucent powders on these plates for future product anyway, so the mix is not a bad idea. she is 100% on the matte clear as ceramic, and i've found some really really good greens, but the lighter colors like the light blues and bronze and gold will probably be powders.
Did the diodes ever come through or are we going to need to pick those up?
Post by: suicidal_orange on Wed, 31 December 2014, 06:29:39
Quote
Current order count: 74 ?!?!
Kits remaining: NONE !?!?
I'm still researching options, is this one or have I missed it?
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 31 December 2014, 08:05:59
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 05 January 2015, 07:29:12
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 05 January 2015, 07:37:06
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 08 January 2015, 14:13:17
Post by: Yslen on Thu, 08 January 2015, 15:03:25
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 08 January 2015, 18:32:29
the painter and i have been going over costing and tolerances, and just as a warning, we may have to cut some colors. purple, greens, blues and titan gray are the safest right now. some of these colors might be collapsed though. there might also be a "trust the painter" or "omakase" option where you give tammi, rainbow's painting genius, authorization to treat your plate as a blank canvas :).
Please let us know if bronze is cut eventually, so that we have some time to change. ;)
Thanks for your work
Post by: Vibex on Thu, 08 January 2015, 21:12:43
I don't want one, thanks :)I would recommend having the gasket, it really improves the overall feel of the board. It makes the body of the keyboard stay almost vibration free and allow only the feedback from the keys. It's a really great feel if you have tactile switches, or bottom out when you type.
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 08 January 2015, 21:36:31
I don't want one, thanks :)I would recommend having the gasket, it really improves the overall feel of the board. It makes the body of the keyboard stay almost vibration free and allow only the feedback from the keys. It's a really great feel if you have tactile switches, or bottom out when you type.
Might as well get it. Try it with and without, doesn't really hurt anything to have some fancy plastic lying around if you end up not liking it.
Post by: tbc on Thu, 08 January 2015, 22:03:13
Post by: Melvang on Thu, 08 January 2015, 22:22:16
i ordered a gold plate...i'm cool with mine being used as an experiment, but if the painter has low confidence that it won't turn out right and recommends against, i'm going to go with raw.
If Tammi at Rainbow doesn't feel confident with something, she won't do it.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 09 January 2015, 05:42:10
Post by: nuclearsandwich on Fri, 09 January 2015, 22:04:18
the painter and i have been going over costing and tolerances, and just as a warning, we may have to cut some colors. purple, greens, blues and titan gray are the safest right now. some of these colors might be collapsed though. there might also be a "trust the painter" or "omakase" option where you give tammi, rainbow's painting genius, authorization to treat your plate as a blank canvas :).
I volunteer for painter's preference! Anything goes.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 14 January 2015, 10:21:11
sorry, i've been sick for the last week. i'm getting ready to kick off gasket production. bunny and i also need to powow on the pcbs. i currently have:
1. about 20 more raw titan plate sets that need to be prepped (i've prepped about 10-15)
2. 40 plate sets at the painters. there are also about 8-10 units there that will be painted with test colors as samples. it turns out that i should have gotten cleanup on both sides, as about half the top plates must be painted, because they have no finish on the "up" side. oops :(
3. enough USB jacks for everyone
4. enough stabilizers for everyone
5. no notched plates.
6. a few sample gaskets that give 2 good options. i'm going to go with the more durable and easier to produce of the two.
i don't have:
1. the whole run of gaskets
2. fasteners and spacers
3. PCBs
4. diodes
5. teensies for those who ordered them
6. notched plates for those who ordered them.
that's the current sitrep. because i'm so behind on work, i need to dig into that for a while, so i'm going to focus on low-effort kickoffs like the pcbs, gaskets. those have a few weeks lead-time, and in the meantime the complex stuff can be plowed through as time allows.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 14 January 2015, 10:21:43
Post by: zflamewing on Wed, 14 January 2015, 13:14:03
Post by: Skuloth on Wed, 14 January 2015, 13:16:32
hey folks,
sorry, i've been sick for the last week. i'm getting ready to kick off gasket production. bunny and i also need to powow on the pcbs. i currently have:
1. about 20 more raw titan plate sets that need to be prepped (i've prepped about 10-15)
2. 40 plate sets at the painters. there are also about 8-10 units there that will be painted with test colors as samples. it turns out that i should have gotten cleanup on both sides, as about half the top plates must be painted, because they have no finish on the "up" side. oops :(
3. enough USB jacks for everyone
4. enough stabilizers for everyone
5. no notched plates.
6. a few sample gaskets that give 2 good options. i'm going to go with the more durable and easier to produce of the two.
i don't have:
1. the whole run of gaskets
2. fasteners and spacers
3. PCBs
4. diodes
5. teensies for those who ordered them
6. notched plates for those who ordered them.
that's the current sitrep. because i'm so behind on work, i need to dig into that for a while, so i'm going to focus on low-effort kickoffs like the pcbs, gaskets. those have a few weeks lead-time, and in the meantime the complex stuff can be plowed through as time allows.
Which parts are the 'complex stuff'?
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 14 January 2015, 18:19:57
Post by: Hpm on Thu, 15 January 2015, 04:02:48
hey folks,
1. about 20 more raw titan plate sets that need to be prepped (i've prepped about 10-15)
Hi mkawa!
I haven`t been watching the threat for an while - but I am glad to see the project progressing. The raw plates are looking wonderful and if you could change my order (nr -----) to the raw plates, I would be very happy.
All the best for You and take the time the project needs.
Greeting from Europe/Germany
Hans-Peter
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 15 January 2015, 19:04:51
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 28 January 2015, 06:47:55
Post by: Hpm on Wed, 28 January 2015, 06:50:58
yes! please go ahead and fill out the form again with raw titan as your color option. it will overwrite the old entry.Could you point me to the form, please?
tia
Hans-Peter
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 28 January 2015, 07:29:35
yes! please go ahead and fill out the form again with raw titan as your color option. it will overwrite the old entry.Could you point me to the form, please?
tia
Hans-Peter
http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 10 February 2015, 08:05:45
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 10 February 2015, 18:59:50
On the upside, I'm finishing up with a major deadline this weekend, so I should hopefully have a slightly smaller time deficit next week (note: hopefully. could be wishful thinking.).
the PCB order is waiting for bunny and I to get our affairs in order XD. lead time is thankfully pretty quick on that one compared to the gaskets.
Post by: fatchoi on Tue, 10 February 2015, 19:26:02
I've ordered some color samples, including a glossy clear that might turn out pretty nicely. I've been trying to get more sample plates to Tammi, but we've got 6+ft of snow on the ground with more coming this weekend, so everything relating to the mail is moving very slowly :(. i'll post the pictures as soon as i have them. since we're at the very beginning of figuring out how titanium looks with this painting process, i've given Tammi free reign on the first few samples. I suspect that they're going to be pretty awesome :D
On the upside, I'm finishing up with a major deadline this weekend, so I should hopefully have a slightly smaller time deficit next week (note: hopefully. could be wishful thinking.).
the PCB order is waiting for bunny and I to get our affairs in order XD. lead time is thankfully pretty quick on that one compared to the gaskets.
Many thanks for your update! Can't wait to see the color samples. ;)
Mind I also ask about the status of Teensies please? I remember seeing somewhere in this thread, there's some sort of under MOQ problem?
Post by: Melvang on Tue, 10 February 2015, 19:27:52
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 10 February 2015, 21:51:15
Post by: byker on Tue, 10 February 2015, 21:54:54
Post by: SpAmRaY on Tue, 10 February 2015, 21:57:48
Post by: byker on Tue, 10 February 2015, 21:58:57
it's amazing how 4 to 6 weeks can turn into 8+ months with no end in sight, all I wanted was a unique 40% board and to support the cause, gh can be depressing sometimes
Yup, I joined this when I was new to Geekhack, and was hoping to start out with a cool board. Oh well, I guess these things happen, wish I knew this before I ordered though! :p
Post by: nakedninja on Wed, 11 February 2015, 10:07:37
If anyone is reading this and is interested in possibly taking over my order let me know. You can customize the colours still, and thechemist is going to be building mine with lubed/stickered mx clears. I am not as interested in this as I was 7 months ago and could use the cash for other hobbies. Send me a pm if interested.
I'm interested, I'll send you a PM, if it's not too late.
Post by: sypl on Wed, 11 February 2015, 14:31:28
PM me if interested.
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Thu, 12 February 2015, 07:19:39
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 12 February 2015, 08:30:12
again, thanks everyone for your patience.
Post by: Yslen on Thu, 12 February 2015, 08:32:41
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 12 February 2015, 08:52:21
i just spoke to the painter and we're going to try to get samples ready for pictures and either sent to me or given to melvang early next week.
maybe i should change the name to "the too-big-for-my-britches keyboard kit". sigh.
Post by: geniekid on Fri, 13 February 2015, 20:21:42
There are about 80 kits that need to be fulfilled.
Kits contain:
- Plates
- PCB
- Diodes
- USB jack
- Stabilizer
- Gasket/Spacers
- Fasteners
- Teensy (optional)
Plates
All plates have been cut except for the notched ones. Raw plates are being cleaned and oiled by mkawa. Painted plates are waiting on Rainbow to provide samples so GB participants can finalize their color decisions. Expect pictures of samples next week. Notched plates are running into unexpected cost issues that have to be figured out.
PCBs
PCB orders will be placed within the next month. It's best to wait after Chinese New Years before putting in a production order.
Diodes
These will be ordered soon and sent directly to me so I can sort them into individual kits and send them back to mkawa.
USB jacks
Fully acquired.
Stabilizer
Fully acquired.
Gaskets
In production. ETA for the first batch (50 of them) is 3-5 weeks.
Fasteners/spacers
Need to be specced and purchased.
Teensy
Need to be ordered for those who paid for one.
Post by: byker on Fri, 13 February 2015, 20:44:35
Post by: tbc on Fri, 13 February 2015, 20:56:26
Thank you mkawa and geniekid for clarifying each piece of the kit. :)
DAT TRUTH
much thanks!
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 14 February 2015, 05:23:52
This thread has gotten long and it's a little confusing where we stand. I read the entire thing last night and corresponded with mkawa a little over email to confirm our status. He asked me to share my summary with you. So here goes:
There are about 80 kits that need to be fulfilled.
Kits contain:
- Plates
- PCB
- Diodes
- USB jack
- Stabilizer
- Gasket/Spacers
- Fasteners
- Teensy (optional)
Plates
All plates have been cut except for the notched ones. Raw plates are being cleaned and oiled by mkawa. Painted plates are waiting on Rainbow to provide samples so GB participants can finalize their color decisions. Expect pictures of samples next week. Notched plates are running into unexpected cost issues that have to be figured out.
PCBs
PCB orders will be placed within the next month. It's best to wait after Chinese New Years before putting in a production order.
Diodes
These will be ordered soon and sent directly to me so I can sort them into individual kits and send them back to mkawa.
USB jacks
Fully acquired.
Stabilizer
Fully acquired.
Gaskets
In production. ETA for the first batch (50 of them) is 3-5 weeks.
Fasteners/spacers
Need to be specced and purchased.
Teensy
Need to be ordered for those who paid for one.
Thank you for the summary.
Mkawa, thanks for your effort too.
I ordered a notched plate and according to the summary, you are running into cost issue. I guess the plate hasn't gone through extra cutting. If this is the case, is it possible that you downgrade my plate to without notch and refund the extra money I paid?
This would probably speed up things and avoid you from suffering a loss by cutting the notches. ;)
Post by: Vibex on Sat, 14 February 2015, 12:03:52
If you have any kind of priority list for getting orders out feel free to put mine right at the back, if that'll help others get theirs sooner. I've got one JD40 already so I'm in no rush.You can do this for me too. I already have my 40% that JD built so I can wait longer.
Post by: Yslen on Sat, 14 February 2015, 12:05:40
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 18 February 2015, 06:56:42
the batch of gaskets came in yesterday. huge thanks to geniekid for handling comms on this; i have a few days of breathing room starting tomorrow, so i will add up some numbers and see where things stand, as well as talk extensively to the painter and other suppliers.
thanks so much for your patience, and please know that geniekid is communicating extensively with me to keep y'all updated and relay concerns
Post by: Skuloth on Wed, 18 February 2015, 08:09:13
folks,
the batch of gaskets came in yesterday. huge thanks to geniekid for handling comms on this; i have a few days of breathing room starting tomorrow, so i will add up some numbers and see where things stand, as well as talk extensively to the painter and other suppliers.
thanks so much for your patience, and please know that geniekid is communicating extensively with me to keep y'all updated and relay concerns
pics or it didn't happen :P
Post by: geniekid on Wed, 18 February 2015, 12:05:18
[attach=1]
I'm asking him for a better picture and how well the gaskets work. With actual gaskets in hand it should be possible to spec out the fasteners.
Post by: geniekid on Wed, 18 February 2015, 12:30:43
With regard to downgrading notched plates there is a question as to whether that would be helpful (although the gesture is appreciated :) ). I suspect that having too many people drop their notched plates will just result in an increased cost for the people who still want one, although this is purely conjecture on my part. Some ideas have been tossed around and I think mkawa is working hard to figure out the most effective solution.
Post by: abjr on Wed, 18 February 2015, 13:26:09
Post by: Melvang on Wed, 18 February 2015, 13:32:07
[attach=1]
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 18 February 2015, 13:34:36
(Attachment Link)
I have many regrets for not joining this buy now. I'm going to have to get my plates ano'd and then figure out how to get TI for myself...
Post by: Joey Quinn on Wed, 18 February 2015, 13:38:43
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
If something like this ever drops for the JD45 I'll be in. :thumb:
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 18 February 2015, 13:39:45
(Attachment Link)
I have many regrets for not joining this buy now. I'm going to have to get my plates ano'd and then figure out how to get TI for myself...
There are people looking to sell their spots, you could always take one of those.
Post by: Skuloth on Wed, 18 February 2015, 14:04:24
(Attachment Link)
I have many regrets for not joining this buy now. I'm going to have to get my plates ano'd and then figure out how to get TI for myself...
You should probably buy someone out. You always need more cool stuff.
Post by: geniekid on Wed, 18 February 2015, 19:09:36
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
Wow those look really cool. Thanks for the pics Melvang :thumb:
Post by: r3nfr0 on Wed, 18 February 2015, 19:10:43
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Wed, 18 February 2015, 19:33:44
I guess waiting for it is half the fun :))
Post by: tbc on Wed, 18 February 2015, 19:39:40
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
was there a bronze plate?
Post by: Melvang on Wed, 18 February 2015, 19:47:46
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
was there a bronze plate?
Not when I was there.
Post by: slickmamba on Wed, 18 February 2015, 19:48:49
(Attachment Link)
I have many regrets for not joining this buy now. I'm going to have to get my plates ano'd and then figure out how to get TI for myself...
my purp one is dedicated to you! Although, I'm not sure how long I will keep it since I am already trying to downsize
Post by: r3nfr0 on Wed, 18 February 2015, 19:53:20
Post by: jdcarpe on Wed, 18 February 2015, 19:59:08
Post by: Melvang on Wed, 18 February 2015, 20:00:23
Are these paint or cerakoted? I think I zoned out at that part.
Are those all powder coated??
It is Cerokote.
Edit: The two plates on the left side are both coated clear. Also, put a capital letter on Cerokote as it is a trademarked name.
Post by: tbc on Wed, 18 February 2015, 23:14:51
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
was there a bronze plate?
Not when I was there.
well. damn.
does anyone know if bronze will make the final cut or has it been 'disqualified' already?
i'm going to be a sad ducky if i don't get bronze or gold :(
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 19 February 2015, 09:37:54
Are these paint or cerakoted? I think I zoned out at that part.Are those all powder coated??
It is Cerokote.
Edit: The two plates on the left side are both coated clear. Also, put a capital letter on Cerokote as it is a trademarked name.
Thanks for the pic. The black or grey looks good.
Hope there is a bronze sample too, if it hasn't been ruled out...
Post by: Yslen on Thu, 19 February 2015, 12:22:17
I'm still interested in selling my order if you want to get in.(Attachment Link)
I have many regrets for not joining this buy now. I'm going to have to get my plates ano'd and then figure out how to get TI for myself...
Post by: GSimon on Thu, 19 February 2015, 13:56:05
well. damn.
does anyone know if bronze will make the final cut or has it been 'disqualified' already?
i'm going to be a sad ducky if i don't get bronze or gold :(
Same, would at least like to be able to choose an alternative color as I'd prefer not to get the raw titan by default.
Post by: bboyer on Fri, 20 February 2015, 17:29:14
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/27/e5/81/27e5816d291187566ea5d5969882d51e.jpg)
Post by: geniekid on Fri, 20 February 2015, 21:22:54
Kits contain:
- Plates
- PCB
- Diodes
- USB jack
- Stabilizer
- Gasket/Spacers
- Fasteners
- Teensy (optional)
Plates
All plates have been cut except for the notched ones. Raw plates are being cleaned and oiled by mkawa. Painted plates are waiting on Rainbow to provide samples so GB participants can finalize their color decisions. There are some pictures of samples earlier in the thread but the full range of color options is still being determined. Notched plates are running into unexpected cost issues that have to be figured out.
PCBs
PCB orders will be placed within the next month. It's best to wait after Chinese New Years before putting in a production order.
Diodes
These will be ordered soon and sent directly to me so I can sort them into individual kits and send them back to mkawa.
USB jacks
Fully acquired.
Stabilizer
Fully acquired.
Gaskets
First batch of these are in. They are tested and fit is good.
Fasteners/spacers
Need to be specced and purchased.
Teensy
Need to be ordered for those who paid for one.
A picture of a raw plates:
[attachimg=1]
Post by: Peglah on Sat, 21 February 2015, 09:41:27
Edit, Have found a seller.
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sat, 21 February 2015, 09:42:18
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Sun, 22 February 2015, 00:39:25
Is it still possible to order this keyboard or is it to late?
I'm selling and it's not too late. check your pm. :p
Post by: Peglah on Sun, 22 February 2015, 04:03:57
Is it still possible to order this keyboard or is it to late?
Have found a seller.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 24 February 2015, 08:13:14
i received the sample colored plates from tammi @ rainbow yesterday. they're pretty amazing. i had some questions about exactly which processes she used, but i can assure you that the matte ceramic is _amazing_, and her other samples are no slouches either. there's one in particular that is just out of this world, but i have to chat with her to make sure the coating won't be too thick.
the trick with color selection is that we have to purchase at least 100$ of each color to coat any boards in that color at all. coloring was originally costed at 600$ total, and is now probably going to be over 3000$. i set a fixed price and screwed up the costing all by myself, so i'll take the hit, but we can make the hit a bit smaller if we get creative with selection. i have some folks to talk with, but we'll post something around the end of the week if the ducks get lined up.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Tue, 24 February 2015, 08:15:14
hey folks, home sick today so i wanted to give you a quick update
i received the sample colored plates from tammi @ rainbow yesterday. they're pretty amazing. i had some questions about exactly which processes she used, but i can assure you that the matte ceramic is _amazing_, and her other samples are no slouches either. there's one in particular that is just out of this world, but i have to chat with her to make sure the coating won't be too thick.
the trick with color selection is that we have to purchase at least 100$ of each color to coat any boards in that color at all. coloring was originally costed at 600$ total, and is now probably going to be over 3000$. i set a fixed price and screwed up the costing all by myself, so i'll take the hit, but we can make the hit a bit smaller if we get creative with selection. i have some folks to talk with, but we'll post something around the end of the week if the ducks get lined up.
So if our particular color choice doesn't make it can we pay the $100 to get it? Will there be any bronze or gold or even orange?
ps: get well soon :thumb:
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 24 February 2015, 10:51:37
hey folks, home sick today so i wanted to give you a quick update
i received the sample colored plates from tammi @ rainbow yesterday. they're pretty amazing. i had some questions about exactly which processes she used, but i can assure you that the matte ceramic is _amazing_, and her other samples are no slouches either. there's one in particular that is just out of this world, but i have to chat with her to make sure the coating won't be too thick.
the trick with color selection is that we have to purchase at least 100$ of each color to coat any boards in that color at all. coloring was originally costed at 600$ total, and is now probably going to be over 3000$. i set a fixed price and screwed up the costing all by myself, so i'll take the hit, but we can make the hit a bit smaller if we get creative with selection. i have some folks to talk with, but we'll post something around the end of the week if the ducks get lined up.
I don't want to get ahead of myself/ourselves here, but I still really really would love something approximating the Vector Purple and Aqua colors originally proposed. I understand that this is a different process, so it may not be possible, but the main point I'm making here is that I will pay extra for it to see it through to production. :thumb:
(http://i.imgur.com/kfgKbcp.png)
I will await further feedback from you and Tammi, of course. :)
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 24 February 2015, 14:08:04
hey folks, home sick today so i wanted to give you a quick update
i received the sample colored plates from tammi @ rainbow yesterday. they're pretty amazing. i had some questions about exactly which processes she used, but i can assure you that the matte ceramic is _amazing_, and her other samples are no slouches either. there's one in particular that is just out of this world, but i have to chat with her to make sure the coating won't be too thick.
the trick with color selection is that we have to purchase at least 100$ of each color to coat any boards in that color at all. coloring was originally costed at 600$ total, and is now probably going to be over 3000$. i set a fixed price and screwed up the costing all by myself, so i'll take the hit, but we can make the hit a bit smaller if we get creative with selection. i have some folks to talk with, but we'll post something around the end of the week if the ducks get lined up.
I don't want to get ahead of myself/ourselves here, but I still really really would love something approximating the Vector Purple and Aqua colors originally proposed. I understand that this is a different process, so it may not be possible, but the main point I'm making here is that I will pay extra for it to see it through to production. :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kfgKbcp.png)
I will await further feedback from you and Tammi, of course. :)
I second something like vector purple. As everyone should know purple > other colors.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 25 February 2015, 06:36:49
the purple is cerakote "bright purple" for reference.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 25 February 2015, 06:45:15
would folks who bought notched plates be interested in custom colors instead of notched plates? if groups of 7-10 folks who ordered notched plates can agree on a completely 100% custom cerakote color, i can order that color paint instead of the notched plate and you can pick your own completely badass color choice out of the entire spectrum of cerakote paints. i will have to check with tammi, but simple patterns might even be possible with, for example, a group of 20.
my initial color samples -- the pink and green in this sample batch will not go into production
[attach=1]
a multi-color cerakote using stencils:
[attach=2]
Post by: Ceedog on Wed, 25 February 2015, 06:48:21
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 25 February 2015, 06:48:53
hey folks, home sick today so i wanted to give you a quick update
i received the sample colored plates from tammi @ rainbow yesterday. they're pretty amazing. i had some questions about exactly which processes she used, but i can assure you that the matte ceramic is _amazing_, and her other samples are no slouches either. there's one in particular that is just out of this world, but i have to chat with her to make sure the coating won't be too thick.
the trick with color selection is that we have to purchase at least 100$ of each color to coat any boards in that color at all. coloring was originally costed at 600$ total, and is now probably going to be over 3000$. i set a fixed price and screwed up the costing all by myself, so i'll take the hit, but we can make the hit a bit smaller if we get creative with selection. i have some folks to talk with, but we'll post something around the end of the week if the ducks get lined up.
So if our particular color choice doesn't make it can we pay the $100 to get it? Will there be any bronze or gold or even orange?
ps: get well soon :thumb:
So no bronze, gold and/or orange colors?
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 25 February 2015, 06:52:56
the notched plate substitution is a proposal and can be worked out on a person (or small group) to person (or small group) basis.
Post by: Ceedog on Wed, 25 February 2015, 06:58:35
Post by: Yslen on Wed, 25 February 2015, 07:43:02
Edit for clarification purposes: I'm one of the notched plate orders
Post by: mashby on Wed, 25 February 2015, 09:44:27
i've picked the purple and it is indeed epic. titan gray and purple will be the first to go into production. because these colors are going to match the danco colors, i'm going to go ahead and start producing. i also have a color i like that is somewhere between aqua and light blue -- cerakote "robins egg blue". because i'm not sure where it fits, i'm not going to go into production on any of the blues or greens yet.
the purple is cerakote "bright purple" for reference.
ming -- did you get my PM about wanting switch back to raw for my order?
Post by: fatchoi on Wed, 25 February 2015, 09:52:02
If the burnt bronze cannot make it, I'm fine with original plan or that notch upgrade refund, whichever works better.
Post by: tbc on Wed, 25 February 2015, 11:22:18
I can't speak for others, but I speak for myself when I say that I want notched plates. I ordered an intentionally neutral color, and with my plans to install custom springs, switch tops, etc., a "badass" color wouldn't help me much. This project has changed enough as is; I'd like to keep the thing I paid an extra $50 for the same.
i'm in the same boat. it's critically important i get notched plates.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 25 February 2015, 17:21:02
no, i've updated it now.i've picked the purple and it is indeed epic. titan gray and purple will be the first to go into production. because these colors are going to match the danco colors, i'm going to go ahead and start producing. i also have a color i like that is somewhere between aqua and light blue -- cerakote "robins egg blue". because i'm not sure where it fits, i'm not going to go into production on any of the blues or greens yet.
the purple is cerakote "bright purple" for reference.
ming -- did you get my PM about wanting switch back to raw for my order?
ooh, burnt bronze? any other takers?
while we're looking at colors, here are some i really like:
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-400Q/jesse-james-eastern-front-green/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-140Q/bright-white/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-240Q/mil-spec-od-green/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-216Q/smith-wesson-red/
Post by: alexofthewest on Wed, 25 February 2015, 21:34:16
Post by: tbc on Wed, 25 February 2015, 21:38:22
Just to clarify, these kits do not come with switches or caps?
they come with neither
Post by: alexofthewest on Wed, 25 February 2015, 21:39:56
Post by: panrc on Thu, 26 February 2015, 02:30:24
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 26 February 2015, 10:46:55
Post by: tahuds on Thu, 26 February 2015, 13:32:26
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 27 February 2015, 07:53:17
it's definitely possible to get a notched plate and crazy colors, at a cost.
the bottom line on the posts above is that i have screwed this up royally to the point where: there is no money left to give to charity, and i'm paying for the rest of production out of pocket. because it was my fault, i'm going to donate cash out of hand to the smallfry foundation after everyone gets product.
the folks i'm working with are trying to help, and we might be able to give you insanely cool news if that all works out. if it doesn't, production will march on as it has been.
Post by: stoic-lemon on Fri, 27 February 2015, 07:55:51
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 27 February 2015, 07:57:18
my purp one is dedicated to you! Although, I'm not sure how long I will keep it since I am already trying to downsize
Aww I'm flattered haha. It's too bad you won't keep it, I'm sure it's going to be great :).
my initial color samples -- the pink and green in this sample batch will not go into production
(Attachment Link)
I'm going to pick up one of the pink plates. I'll take pictures and share them here so there's some more info on how the finish will look :). Pretty stoked for it actually.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 27 February 2015, 08:18:43
Post by: Skuloth on Fri, 27 February 2015, 08:25:35
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 27 February 2015, 08:26:57
robins egg blue
bright purple
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 27 February 2015, 08:30:21
matte clear
robins egg blue
bright purple
robins egg blue :eek: <3
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 27 February 2015, 08:34:03
These things are amazing in person.
I am still raw titanium though. Personally I couldn't bring myself to paint it for this application.
Post by: Skuloth on Fri, 27 February 2015, 09:00:51
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 27 February 2015, 09:03:19
Post by: SpAmRaY on Fri, 27 February 2015, 09:03:53
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 27 February 2015, 09:08:51
here's one of my favorites: http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-210Q/sig-dark-grey/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-245Q/socom-blue/
and.. BLACK
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-109Q/gloss-black/
Post by: SpAmRaY on Fri, 27 February 2015, 09:11:04
Of course looking at the colors on the cerakote firearm coatings I'd say this isn't going to happen.
In the pic posted with the sample plates (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59203.msg1657421#msg1657421) the second from the top looks to be a darker color, is that just raw titanium with a clear coat?
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 27 February 2015, 09:24:00
Post by: bboyer on Fri, 27 February 2015, 13:02:40
no, i've updated it now.i've picked the purple and it is indeed epic. titan gray and purple will be the first to go into production. because these colors are going to match the danco colors, i'm going to go ahead and start producing. i also have a color i like that is somewhere between aqua and light blue -- cerakote "robins egg blue". because i'm not sure where it fits, i'm not going to go into production on any of the blues or greens yet.
the purple is cerakote "bright purple" for reference.
ming -- did you get my PM about wanting switch back to raw for my order?
ooh, burnt bronze? any other takers?
Signed up originally for Bronze hoping it would be burnt bronze, so put my vote down for that also
Post by: byker on Mon, 02 March 2015, 01:55:53
I am now having a hard-time deciding between purple , titan grey, and raw. ???
Also, my kit is still up for grabs if anyone is interested, if not, I won't be sad to keep it. :thumb:
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 02 March 2015, 02:04:41
Post by: zflamewing on Mon, 02 March 2015, 04:14:10
no, i've updated it now.i've picked the purple and it is indeed epic. titan gray and purple will be the first to go into production. because these colors are going to match the danco colors, i'm going to go ahead and start producing. i also have a color i like that is somewhere between aqua and light blue -- cerakote "robins egg blue". because i'm not sure where it fits, i'm not going to go into production on any of the blues or greens yet.
the purple is cerakote "bright purple" for reference.
ming -- did you get my PM about wanting switch back to raw for my order?
ooh, burnt bronze? any other takers?
while we're looking at colors, here are some i really like:
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-400Q/jesse-james-eastern-front-green/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-140Q/bright-white/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-240Q/mil-spec-od-green/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-216Q/smith-wesson-red/
I know I'd love Burnt Bronze for the bronze choice!
Post by: GSimon on Mon, 02 March 2015, 10:26:20
I know I'd love Burnt Bronze for the bronze choice!
x 2
Post by: Wigflip on Tue, 03 March 2015, 09:47:03
Post by: cjhard on Tue, 03 March 2015, 10:49:29
Post by: SpAmRaY on Tue, 03 March 2015, 10:55:48
Come now, comrade, is this not fun? Are you not having fun?
So much fun I can hardly stand it.
Post by: nubbinator on Tue, 03 March 2015, 12:46:04
Nearly a year later, and still in production. Some high-rises are built more quickly. This is why I stopped doing group buys.
Just choose your buys carefully. Some leaders are better than others.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Tue, 03 March 2015, 12:54:54
Nearly a year later, and still in production. Some high-rises are built more quickly. This is why I stopped doing group buys.
Just choose your buys carefully. Some leaders are better than others.
Anymore I just go with jdcarpe's signature
"We throw our money || Into the vaporous void || Sometimes we get stuff"
Post by: daddytime on Wed, 04 March 2015, 07:26:29
Post by: geniekid on Thu, 05 March 2015, 14:13:50
the folks i'm working with are trying to help, and we might be able to give you insanely cool news if that all works out. if it doesn't, production will march on as it has been.
I don't really have much info on what's being tossed around but I will let mkawa announce anything that arises :)
Post by: taylordcraig on Thu, 12 March 2015, 00:17:24
Status remains largely unchanged from my previous post (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59203.1050). Plates are still being painted and I believe titan grey and purple ones are done. Other parts are waiting for the following to be resolved:the folks i'm working with are trying to help, and we might be able to give you insanely cool news if that all works out. if it doesn't, production will march on as it has been.
I don't really have much info on what's being tossed around but I will let mkawa announce anything that arises :)
Sorry to be a bother but am I to understand cut-out plates are still yet to be done?
Post by: byker on Thu, 12 March 2015, 00:31:25
Status remains largely unchanged from my previous post (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59203.1050). Plates are still being painted and I believe titan grey and purple ones are done. Other parts are waiting for the following to be resolved:the folks i'm working with are trying to help, and we might be able to give you insanely cool news if that all works out. if it doesn't, production will march on as it has been.
I don't really have much info on what's being tossed around but I will let mkawa announce anything that arises :)
Sorry to be a bother but am I to understand cut-out plates are still yet to be done?
That is correct, I believe mkawa is looking for a way to finance this.
Post by: tahuds on Thu, 12 March 2015, 12:21:00
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 12 March 2015, 20:29:56
on the upside, tammi and i have settled wild green for the green plates, ridgeway blue for deep blues, and are looking at burnt bronze for the bronze plates.
re: the cut-out plates, the ongoing discussions also involve those plates.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 12 March 2015, 20:33:20
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 12 March 2015, 20:55:38
sigh. i hate to be so quiet on this front, but i am _still_ trying to work with some folks on some hopefully exciting developments for the parts of the kit that aren't titanium or sorbothane. i would not be trying so hard to work on this if i didn't think it was pretty exciting. that said, i also want to give people their kits, so i'm trying as hard as i can to balance the possibility of exciting vs the reality of sending people kits asap. i have been SWORN TO SECRECY on these discussions, but i will make a final decision next week.
on the upside, tammi and i have settled wild green for the green plates, ridgeway blue for deep blues, and are looking at burnt bronze for the bronze plates.
re: the cut-out plates, the ongoing discussions also involve those plates.
I need to know the secret!
Post by: tbc on Thu, 12 March 2015, 21:08:56
Will there be a sample done for burnt bronze? Curious to see how that comes out!!
i just hope it goes good with gold accents on other parts of the keyboard
Post by: shrapneL on Sat, 14 March 2015, 09:02:26
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 16 March 2015, 19:51:47
1058 is titan gray on both plates :D
if anyone can show me how to build a read-only view of a google spreadsheet that only includes a subset of columns, i can make the color choices public. i could have sworn i've seen people give talks about how this is implemented but darned if i can actually figure out how to do it.. :/
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 16 March 2015, 19:52:56
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Post by: fatchoi on Mon, 16 March 2015, 20:07:49
neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Thanks for updating. Mind I ask how about the notched plate please?
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 16 March 2015, 20:16:08
neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 16 March 2015, 20:31:15
neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
I can't remember if it was mentioned before, but what is the status on purple?
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 16 March 2015, 20:43:28
Purple plates have been painted and are headed towards me
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 16 March 2015, 21:19:15
Working on the notched plates.
Purple plates have been painted and are headed towards me
Oh I'm excited for pictures.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 March 2015, 19:58:54
as for the announcement, it's kind of a large-ish announcement that is a bit bigger than just the smallfry kit, which is cool, but also means that it requires a number of parties to organize themselves while still doing the work required to make the announced thing happen asap. we're getting there (a) and (b) it will be a cool bonus to thank everyone for their patience and participation.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Fri, 20 March 2015, 20:20:32
neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Can't seem to PM so bumping.
Post by: njbair on Fri, 20 March 2015, 20:29:57
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 March 2015, 20:36:13
wait, do you want to guinea pig burnt bronze or regular bronze?neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Can't seem to PM so bumping.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Fri, 20 March 2015, 20:43:20
No preference whatever would be the most helpful.wait, do you want to guinea pig burnt bronze or regular bronze?neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Can't seem to PM so bumping.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 March 2015, 21:06:01
although come to think of it, that would be incredibly awesome...
Post by: njbair on Fri, 20 March 2015, 21:21:24
so what you're saying is that you want a neon pink plate with your name written on it in glitter?
although come to think of it, that would be incredibly awesome...
Avatar checks out.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Fri, 20 March 2015, 21:33:43
so what you're saying is that you want a neon pink plate with your name written on it in glitter?I have no preference so long as the bottom plate is bronze, burnt or otherwise. :P
although come to think of it, that would be incredibly awesome...
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 20 March 2015, 23:32:39
Post by: tahuds on Sat, 21 March 2015, 19:09:34
Post by: njbair on Sat, 21 March 2015, 19:44:06
Post by: byker on Sat, 21 March 2015, 19:46:29
I'm confused. It sounds like things are already in production but the order form says 6 left. Are there still six orders open or is this GB closed?
Things are in production but there are still 6 orders open.
Post by: jdcarpe on Sat, 21 March 2015, 19:49:36
So do we have an ETA for those of us who ordered raw plates? If I remember correctly from a month ago all we were waiting on was the PCB's to be made and fasteners.mkawa's big announcement will have to do with the PCBs. We couldn't have them made a month ago, due to the CNY holiday, and while that delay was happening, some other developments have come into play. Stay tuned!
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 22 March 2015, 09:49:56
i do have some notched plates that i wasn't entirely happy with, but have decided that i will go ahead and distribute in an attempt to make things right.
that said, i can't erase the months of waiting. i can and am doing my best to get to the best possible outcome given what has happened to now.
Post by: zflamewing on Mon, 23 March 2015, 10:10:40
wait, do you want to guinea pig burnt bronze or regular bronze?neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Can't seem to PM so bumping.
I'm willing to guinea pig burnt bronze if you still need one.
Post by: Greeeg on Mon, 23 March 2015, 17:37:51
i have 5 or 6 kits left. the next 6 kit orders will get no choice on colors (because you're going to get the cerakote experiments) but will get notched plates for free.
eta: basically, you're going to get a colored top plate of completely unknown, potentially multiple colors, and a gray bottom plate.
If you need to experiment with more plates I don't mind if you paint the bottom plate crazy colours too. Only if that will help.
I've been trying to keep up, but what colours are definite now?
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 24 March 2015, 07:46:26
Post by: daddytime on Tue, 24 March 2015, 18:57:13
Post by: njbair on Tue, 24 March 2015, 19:08:38
No seafoam?
This is hilarious because earlier today I used seafoam anodize as an example (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70149.msg1691203#msg1691203).
Post by: daddytime on Tue, 24 March 2015, 20:18:44
Post by: fatchoi on Tue, 24 March 2015, 20:27:41
titan gray (painted, done), purple (painted, done), green (not painted yet), blue (not painted yet), and it looks like bronze is a lock with all the interest.
Yea, bronze is pretty unique color to go with.
Post by: V1ral on Wed, 25 March 2015, 12:38:00
:-(
It's ok, I'm the other person that wanted seafoam. *patpat*
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 26 March 2015, 06:44:44
note that we have something equivalent to a lot charge which is paint cost.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 26 March 2015, 06:45:48
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 01 April 2015, 06:44:55
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 01 April 2015, 06:56:51
Post by: geniekid on Wed, 01 April 2015, 08:33:51
good news everyone! we're converging on the announcement. huzzah!
[attachimg=1]
Post by: byker on Wed, 01 April 2015, 13:04:12
Post by: geniekid on Thu, 02 April 2015, 10:46:42
The color list is this:
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-217Q/bright-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 02 April 2015, 10:53:23
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-197Q/wild-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
That 'burnt bronze' you have linked I would call gold, not burnt bronze and the bronze looks brown.
That's a real bummer was really hoping for something with more of an orange tint. :-\
Edit: So are you saying we can no longer change to Titan Grey?
Also I appreciate what this started out as but I've got to say this is the most disappointing group buy I've been in to date.
Post by: geniekid on Thu, 02 April 2015, 11:09:27
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-197Q/wild-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
That 'burnt bronze' you have linked I would call gold, not burnt bronze and the bronze looks brown.
That's a real bummer was really hoping for something with more of an orange tint. :-\
Edit: So are you saying we can no longer change to Titan Grey?
I could be wrong about the actual color of the burnt bronze - there are actually two from the cerakote website. mkawa would know.
Correct, you can no longer change to Titan Grey. Well, you can type it in but I'm not sure what you will actually get!
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 02 April 2015, 11:10:49
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-197Q/wild-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
That 'burnt bronze' you have linked I would call gold, not burnt bronze and the bronze looks brown.
That's a real bummer was really hoping for something with more of an orange tint. :-\
Edit: So are you saying we can no longer change to Titan Grey?
I could be wrong about the actual color of the burnt bronze - there are actually two from the cerakote website. mkawa would know.
Correct, you can no longer change to Titan Grey. Well, you can type it in but I'm not sure what you will actually get!
Well that sucks because those bronze's pretty well suck and I certainly don't want any of the other colors. Oh well at least this buy can't get any worse right?
I mean maybe the bronze will look better in reality than the sample photos. ::)
Trying to be constructive here...I much prefer this http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-246Q/desert-gold/ (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-246Q/desert-gold/)
This color was what I was imagining when I think burnt bronze...
I'm going to be so hyped if us that ordered bronze get burnt bronze cerakote. It is one of the most popular cerakote colors, so I'm sure they have painted it beforeShow Image(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/27/e5/81/27e5816d291187566ea5d5969882d51e.jpg)
Of course if we don't want any of the mentioned colors can we just get it raw finished?? ???
Post by: Yslen on Thu, 02 April 2015, 11:38:59
Post by: mashby on Thu, 02 April 2015, 13:00:10
Post by: zflamewing on Thu, 02 April 2015, 14:17:02
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-217Q/bright-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
I'll be leaning toward the bronze. It looks very dark and some of the examples of it on the net have it as kind of a coppery bronze. I'm willing to take the risk. If you need a test subject let me know.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 02 April 2015, 20:29:14
I'd still prefer raw if that is an option.if you already had raw as your choice, you're getting a raw plate. i may be able to fit a few more raw plates in, but painted is going to be much easier for me to deal with at this point
note that the final bronze color will be either bronze or burnt bronze, not both. the more noise i hear in the thread towards burn or non-burnt will be the color we go with.
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 02 April 2015, 20:36:38
Post by: tbc on Thu, 02 April 2015, 20:39:37
that other bronze is a trainwreck.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 02 April 2015, 20:47:17
bronze is a trainwreck.
+1
So is this group buy.
If the bronze is going to be brown I'd rather get titan grey to match my top plate.
Also considering how long this is dragging out with only 'surprise coming soon', it really sucks.
I only bought into this because I thought it was for a good cause and the turnaround was going to be quick.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 02 April 2015, 21:36:08
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 02 April 2015, 21:38:32
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 02 April 2015, 21:47:41
I'm just going to say it's a real shame that pink didn't make the color cut. It's amazing.
You are neglecting to realize that purple > pink :P
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 03 April 2015, 06:30:48
Post by: fatchoi on Fri, 03 April 2015, 07:42:15
people do love dat purple
Hi mkawa, thanks for your efforts. I've updated my order (#1098) to burnt bronze.
The form doesn't contain the burnt bronze in the first 2 questions, so I just entered bronze as dummy, and input "burnt bronze" in the notes section as instructed.
Post by: fatchoi on Fri, 03 April 2015, 07:46:05
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-217Q/bright-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
I like the burnt bronze more. If there's a convergence, could you please announce it first, such that we could make a last-minute change?
Post by: V1ral on Fri, 03 April 2015, 12:11:22
Post by: r3nfr0 on Fri, 03 April 2015, 12:23:04
That being said I think most people thing burnt bronze should be a little more orange. Although I'm not invested in that color at all.
Post by: slickmamba on Fri, 03 April 2015, 12:29:58
Post by: r3nfr0 on Fri, 03 April 2015, 12:32:16
Post by: Zeal on Fri, 03 April 2015, 12:56:13
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 03 April 2015, 14:20:27
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 05 April 2015, 11:27:50
WHAT ARE WE ANNOUNCING?
We have exciting news for you today.
THE FACTS
Let's not mince words. The Smallfry Keyboard Kit is horrendously late. The complexity of the kit, number of customers, and vagaries of manufacturing have destroyed the original lead time estimates, and all semblance of the original budget.
In less depressing news, Input Club, the keyboard cartel consisting of our own superstars HaaTa, Parak and Over^Kill have been expanding their line of keyboard kits driven by the the Input Club Infinity programmable keyboard controller. The Infinity controller is a brand new design powered by a 32-bit ARM microprocessor and is fully programmable via a convenient web tool or command line. Further, the Infinity controller footprint is small enough to be integrated directly onto keyboard PCBs _without_ a separate Teensy or Arduino-based controller board.
Input Club has been redesigning the most popular keyboard kits with the Infinity controller, starting with the 60% Infinity, and now the Infinity Ergodox, both distributed by Massdrop.com.
ERGO, ANNOUNCEMENT
Input Club has been developing a new 40% keyboard based on the JD40 layout made famous by jdcarpe. The Infinity JD40 will feature the Infinity keyboard controller and new PCB layout. The Infinity JD40 will add a metric tonne of gee whiz features over the old JD40 PCB and further, construction of the board is made substantially easier by the removal of the separate teensy. This new Infinity JD40 is also going to be distributed by Massdrop.com.
A-WHAAA?!?!
Yes! You heard me right. Massdrop.com will be providing every member of the Smallfry Keyboard Kit group buy with an Infinity JD40 PCB! In addition to providing a brand new, cutting edge PCB, our own Andrew "Kash" Lekashman of Massdrop.com will be personally helping to fulfill every Smallfry Keyboard Kit order. That, my friends, is true keyboard dedication.
WHY is this Infinity JD40 PCB so great?
To recap, the JD40Club PCB will use the same fully programmable, integrated 32-bit controller as the Infinity 60% keyboard kit and the Infinity Ergodox keyboard kit, but in a 40% form factor. For those that remember the Sega Saturn, original Playstation, and every Nintendo console of the 1990s, this keyboard is more powerful. What's that I hear? Yes, that is the exciting march of perpetual progress.
WANT! WHEN?
Development of the Infinity JD40 has made great progress. However, development is ongoing. Development is currently at the late design to early prototype phase. Massdrop.com and Input Club will be providing updates and sneak peaks as development progresses. Massdrop.com plans on releasing their the Infinity JD40 Kit, which will include a vastly different case design, in late June, which will put final Smallfry Kit delivery at in the June to July timeframe. The PCB used in the Infinity 40% will be the same as the one everyone in the Smallfry Keyboard Kit will be receiving, and to save money all of the PCB’s will be made in the same run.
RECAP
The Smallfry Keyboard Kit is receiving a free upgrade as Input Club and Massdrop have designed a new PCB for all Smallfry Kit GB members. mkawa@geekhackers will still providing all Smallfry Kit components EXCEPT for the PCB. Further, Massdrop.com will just be leveraging its logistics team and buying scale to help out in the way where we can have the greatest impact.
We are in the beginning stages of this process, and as such, Andrew@massdrop, folks@Input Club and mkawa@geekhackers will be updating the thread as development proceeds with sign-up instructions, prototype media and other details. Stay tuned!
You can find information about the Infinity 60% keyboard at https://www.massdrop.com/buy/infinity-keyboard-kit and https://www.massdrop.com/buy/infinity-ergodox. Further, the Infinity keyboard configurator will be updated to support the new Infinity JD40 PCB when it arrives.
Post by: Ceedog on Sun, 05 April 2015, 11:29:39
Post by: Ceedog on Sun, 05 April 2015, 11:35:54
Post by: Skuloth on Sun, 05 April 2015, 11:41:13
Also, what happens to us schmucks that bought a Teensy from Geekhackers?
I was wondering the same thing.
Post by: Skuloth on Sun, 05 April 2015, 11:44:01
Post by: Ceedog on Sun, 05 April 2015, 11:44:36
Another important question. Will spock still be on the pcb?
This is the real question.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 05 April 2015, 12:34:52
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sun, 05 April 2015, 13:07:14
Can we just get everything but the PCB?
I'm not interested in waiting an unknown amount of time for something that is NOT what I paid for.
Post by: Yslen on Sun, 05 April 2015, 16:16:42
Post by: Greeeg on Sun, 05 April 2015, 19:34:51
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Sun, 05 April 2015, 21:33:46
Can we just get everything but the PCB?
Ditto. Can we get our hands on the kit except the pcb, especially for those with their plates already done. And what about those with extra PCB order? D:
Post by: tbc on Sun, 05 April 2015, 21:43:09
If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
this post makes me sad smiley sad
:( sad smiley :(
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 05 April 2015, 22:16:51
Thanks
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 06:21:03
a couple more points from an email i just wrote:
Quote from: mkawa
Thanks for your patience! yep, you're going to get a brand new whiz bang pcb, and one that will be completely assembled save for the switches. i'm pretty excited about the new board actually. no more teensy weirdness, and firmware that tracks with the infinity 60% and the infinity ergodox (and .. maybe more? ;)); there will be a much easier configurator for layers, which is super important for the 40% layout, etc.
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 06 April 2015, 06:22:27
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 06:23:01
woah, that also makes me smiley sad..If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
this post makes me sad smiley sad
:( sad smiley :(
would you be interested in working on an infinity bluetooth mod? :cool:
this would be cool enough that i'd be interested on helping out with development :eek:
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 06:23:58
Can you comment on LED support? I know the old board had holes but no traces, and I was wondering if I'd still need hookup wire.you won't need that annoying teensy to usb hookup wire anymore.
it's not clear yet whether there will be room for LEDs. stay tuned for news from Input Club on that one.
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 06 April 2015, 06:24:28
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 06:25:59
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 07:39:26
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 07:40:17
I am still interested in Vector Purple and Aqua, my original choices. Who do I have to pay off to make that happen?purple's done. is the robin's egg blue close enough to aqua for you? if not, we can work out an aqua.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 07:41:59
in fact, i previously donated tools and some electronics kits to smallfry's family. fwiw, please trust my heart is still there. this is and has always been a passion project for charity. i don't plan on letting that change.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 06 April 2015, 07:56:25
would teensy people be interested in having that money go to a completely custom color?
PM sent regarding this. :thumb:
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 08:05:11
note we're doing desert gold regardless of whether others want in on it, so no need to think too hard. if you want it, you get it!
Post by: Greeeg on Mon, 06 April 2015, 08:08:55
woah, that also makes me smiley sad..If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
this post makes me sad smiley sad
:( sad smiley :(
would you be interested in working on an infinity bluetooth mod? :cool:
this would be cool enough that i'd be interested on helping out with development :eek:
I still want to make a bluetooth enabled JD40. I see that the source code is available for the infinity keyboard controller. the controller has enough power to add bluetooth functionality.
Currently I'm thinking a slave module that houses a battery and bluetooth controller. which would communicate with the infinity controller on the PCB. But it would need usb power for charging, some form of communication with the onboard controller (some kind of serial or i2c), and a way to bypass the onboard regulator. (to enable the controller to run off batteries)
These are all things that can't be determined without the PCB design files or the PCB itself. So until the keyboards arrive I can't do much.
I also updated my color choices, because I have no clue what I picked 8 months ago. :)
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 06 April 2015, 08:09:22
for folks who want gold, ray just pitched in for desert gold. any other takers? let's do this!
note we're doing desert gold regardless of whether others want in on it, so no need to think too hard. if you want it, you get it!
for anyone who missed the link before
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-246Q/desert-gold/
Post by: shrapneL on Mon, 06 April 2015, 08:58:20
Post by: r3nfr0 on Mon, 06 April 2015, 08:58:56
Post by: zflamewing on Mon, 06 April 2015, 09:26:58
there's been enough people writing for burnt bronze that i'm going to go with that color. if you have a strong preference for bronze instead of burnt bronze, speak now or hold your peace!
I was originally a proponent of burnt bronze but when you linked the later color options and the bronze linked to a darker bronze color, Barret Bronze, I fell in love with that.
I'm more interested in the darker coppery bronze tones.
I was hoping Barret Bronze looks more like below:
(http://www.all4shooters.com/en/home/pro-zone/2013-articles/Barrett-MRAD-sniper-rifle/MS-Barrett-handguard.jpg?resize=930x870%3E)
I'm still willing to be a lab rat for the bronze option if one is needed. I'd also donate my teensy money to the name of color options as well.
Post by: fatchoi on Mon, 06 April 2015, 09:53:17
would teensy people be interested in having that money go to a completely custom color?
Hi mkawa, I'm going with existing color choice, so I'd prefer a refund of my teensy please.
Post by: dashing_girlboy on Mon, 06 April 2015, 10:15:09
Hi mkawa, I'm going with existing color choice, so I'd prefer a refund of my teensy please.
Same here, I would prefer a refund of my teensy as well. And also, is it possible to have a refund for that extra PCB that we ordered as well? D: Since the PCBs are actually not produced yet.
Post by: byker on Mon, 06 April 2015, 12:06:33
Post by: Yslen on Mon, 06 April 2015, 12:21:39
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 19:00:26
please pm me your order number and paypal address. thanks!would teensy people be interested in having that money go to a completely custom color?
Hi mkawa, I'm going with existing color choice, so I'd prefer a refund of my teensy please.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 06 April 2015, 19:02:26
oh, and note that those who are PMing me for teensy refunds, i will need to verify that your paypal address is the same as the email address on your account (although you can change the email address attached to your geekhackers account!).
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 06 April 2015, 21:22:34
Post by: fatchoi on Mon, 06 April 2015, 22:59:46
Will the newly design PCB be guaranteed to work with the titanium plates? I am just a little bit worried that the PCB will come out incompatible with our plates, rendering them useless.
Since it's still under design stage, it'd cool if mkawa could remind them about this point please. ;)
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 06 April 2015, 23:18:54
Just one thing I suddenly have in mind is that:
Will the newly design PCB be guaranteed to work with the titanium plates? I am just a little bit worried that the PCB will come out incompatible with our plates, rendering them useless.
Since it's still under design stage, it'd cool if mkawa could remind them about this point please. ;)
It's still my design. :)
I've been working with Massdrop and Input Club to get this done. Rest assured, the new PCBs will be 100% backward compatible with all existing JD40 hardware. The new PCB has more layout options, where the original PCB was a fixed layout. But the original layout is still there, so it can work with existing plates, such as the ones in this GB.
Post by: tbc on Mon, 06 April 2015, 23:45:00
Just one thing I suddenly have in mind is that:
Will the newly design PCB be guaranteed to work with the titanium plates? I am just a little bit worried that the PCB will come out incompatible with our plates, rendering them useless.
Since it's still under design stage, it'd cool if mkawa could remind them about this point please. ;)
It's still my design. :)
I've been working with Massdrop and Input Club to get this done. Rest assured, the new PCBs will be 100% backward compatible with all existing JD40 hardware. The new PCB has more layout options, where the original PCB was a fixed layout. But the original layout is still there, so it can work with existing plates, such as the ones in this GB.
are these new layouts shown somewhere?
Post by: joey on Tue, 07 April 2015, 01:49:11
I would like my plates as such shipped as they are available. My order was raw as well so no painting to work on. Also, will the infinity keyboard firmware stuffs work with a handwired matrix on a teensy 3.x?The infinity/kiibohd firmware works with Teensy 3.x.
Post by: Ceedog on Tue, 07 April 2015, 01:52:09
Post by: fatchoi on Tue, 07 April 2015, 02:46:56
Just one thing I suddenly have in mind is that:
Will the newly design PCB be guaranteed to work with the titanium plates? I am just a little bit worried that the PCB will come out incompatible with our plates, rendering them useless.
Since it's still under design stage, it'd cool if mkawa could remind them about this point please. ;)
It's still my design. :)
I've been working with Massdrop and Input Club to get this done. Rest assured, the new PCBs will be 100% backward compatible with all existing JD40 hardware. The new PCB has more layout options, where the original PCB was a fixed layout. But the original layout is still there, so it can work with existing plates, such as the ones in this GB.
Backward compatible? That's good. :)
But I doubt if our titanium case is a "backward" :D
Please build LED backlighting functionality too :thumb:
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 07 April 2015, 18:19:56
THIS BRONZE IS INCREDIBLEthere's been enough people writing for burnt bronze that i'm going to go with that color. if you have a strong preference for bronze instead of burnt bronze, speak now or hold your peace!
I was originally a proponent of burnt bronze but when you linked the later color options and the bronze linked to a darker bronze color, Barret Bronze, I fell in love with that.
I'm more interested in the darker coppery bronze tones.
I was hoping Barret Bronze looks more like below:Show Image(http://www.all4shooters.com/en/home/pro-zone/2013-articles/Barrett-MRAD-sniper-rifle/MS-Barrett-handguard.jpg?resize=930x870%3E)
I'm still willing to be a lab rat for the bronze option if one is needed. I'd also donate my teensy money to the name of color options as well.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 07 April 2015, 19:01:53
Edit: yes they have
Post by: HaaTa on Wed, 08 April 2015, 00:20:03
woah, that also makes me smiley sad..If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
this post makes me sad smiley sad
:( sad smiley :(
would you be interested in working on an infinity bluetooth mod? :cool:
this would be cool enough that i'd be interested on helping out with development :eek:
I still want to make a bluetooth enabled JD40. I see that the source code is available for the infinity keyboard controller. the controller has enough power to add bluetooth functionality.
Currently I'm thinking a slave module that houses a battery and bluetooth controller. which would communicate with the infinity controller on the PCB. But it would need usb power for charging, some form of communication with the onboard controller (some kind of serial or i2c), and a way to bypass the onboard regulator. (to enable the controller to run off batteries)
These are all things that can't be determined without the PCB design files or the PCB itself. So until the keyboards arrive I can't do much.
I also updated my color choices, because I have no clue what I picked 8 months ago. :)
Neat. What sort of Bluetooth module were you planning on using?
I'll be exposing a UART header (Rx and Tx of UART0) for debug purposes. However it could be repurposed for things like Bluetooth.
Exposing SPI is a bit trickier (never planned for SPI usage on the original Infinity, so it would require large schematic changes) so that's likely a no-go.
Something like http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RF-Digital/RFD22102/?qs=MxnWX8BLHKcwkuVNwF2v8A%3D%3D&kpid=1035900368&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgI6pBRDak6aRovWNqLsBEiQA8zZSLtYrBveTma82Vc61pqpdWxJ57cMTATaf0vpUaXxH3zIaApTK8P8HAQ (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RF-Digital/RFD22102/?qs=MxnWX8BLHKcwkuVNwF2v8A%3D%3D&kpid=1035900368&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgI6pBRDak6aRovWNqLsBEiQA8zZSLtYrBveTma82Vc61pqpdWxJ57cMTATaf0vpUaXxH3zIaApTK8P8HAQ) works via UART or SPI.
This summer I'll be doing some investigation into this module to see if I can do NKRO Bluetooth (first via UART, then SPI).
Post by: tbc on Wed, 08 April 2015, 00:25:50
if any of that makes it easier
Post by: Greeeg on Wed, 08 April 2015, 00:29:00
UART would be perfect. I'm using TI's CC2541. And I have a friend who has developed a customs firmware for a Bluetooth to think pad keyboard. I have all the CC2541 development tools so I can implement whatever protocol will play well with the two controllers.woah, that also makes me smiley sad..If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
this post makes me sad smiley sad
:( sad smiley :(
would you be interested in working on an infinity bluetooth mod? :cool:
this would be cool enough that i'd be interested on helping out with development :eek:
I still want to make a bluetooth enabled JD40. I see that the source code is available for the infinity keyboard controller. the controller has enough power to add bluetooth functionality.
Currently I'm thinking a slave module that houses a battery and bluetooth controller. which would communicate with the infinity controller on the PCB. But it would need usb power for charging, some form of communication with the onboard controller (some kind of serial or i2c), and a way to bypass the onboard regulator. (to enable the controller to run off batteries)
These are all things that can't be determined without the PCB design files or the PCB itself. So until the keyboards arrive I can't do much.
I also updated my color choices, because I have no clue what I picked 8 months ago. :)
Neat. What sort of Bluetooth module were you planning on using?
I'll be exposing a UART header (Rx and Tx of UART0) for debug purposes. However it could be repurposed for things like Bluetooth.
Exposing SPI is a bit trickier (never planned for SPI usage on the original Infinity, so it would require large schematic changes) so that's likely a no-go.
Something like http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RF-Digital/RFD22102/?qs=MxnWX8BLHKcwkuVNwF2v8A%3D%3D&kpid=1035900368&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgI6pBRDak6aRovWNqLsBEiQA8zZSLtYrBveTma82Vc61pqpdWxJ57cMTATaf0vpUaXxH3zIaApTK8P8HAQ (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RF-Digital/RFD22102/?qs=MxnWX8BLHKcwkuVNwF2v8A%3D%3D&kpid=1035900368&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgI6pBRDak6aRovWNqLsBEiQA8zZSLtYrBveTma82Vc61pqpdWxJ57cMTATaf0vpUaXxH3zIaApTK8P8HAQ) works via UART or SPI.
This summer I'll be doing some investigation into this module to see if I can do NKRO Bluetooth (first via UART, then SPI).
Post by: HaaTa on Wed, 08 April 2015, 00:38:57
I have a debug module I use for using UART0 on the Infinity keyboard (mk20dx128vlf5), all the code to use it is already there.
https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/blob/master/Output/uartOut/arm/uart_serial.c
Most of the work is likely creating a new Output module (https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/tree/master/Output (https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/tree/master/Output)) that sends the USB descriptors via UART instead of USB.
Because the PCBs are still a ways out, if you want a dev board a Teensy 3.0 will work quite well (very close in specs). A 3.1 will also work, but you might run into some incompatibilities (unlikely though). I'm pretty busy right now with the Infinity ErgoDox, but you can find me on the #geekhack @ irc.freenode.net IRC channel if you want faster question response.
Post by: zflamewing on Wed, 08 April 2015, 05:07:48
THIS BRONZE IS INCREDIBLEthere's been enough people writing for burnt bronze that i'm going to go with that color. if you have a strong preference for bronze instead of burnt bronze, speak now or hold your peace!
I was originally a proponent of burnt bronze but when you linked the later color options and the bronze linked to a darker bronze color, Barret Bronze, I fell in love with that.
I'm more interested in the darker coppery bronze tones.
I was hoping Barret Bronze looks more like below:Show Image(http://www.all4shooters.com/en/home/pro-zone/2013-articles/Barrett-MRAD-sniper-rifle/MS-Barrett-handguard.jpg?resize=930x870%3E)
I'm still willing to be a lab rat for the bronze option if one is needed. I'd also donate my teensy money to the name of color options as well.
that's one of the first images that came back when I googled Barret Bronze. Which the normal bronze option linked to.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 08 April 2015, 07:13:56
Purple plates have already been painted, correct?yah, rainbow still has them, but they are all done, and looking great. tammi hasn't packed them up yet; they're probably going to go in her next shipment back to me
Edit: yes they have
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 08 April 2015, 07:20:07
If you want a head-start, here's the datasheet you want http://cache.freescale.com/files/32bit/doc/ref_manual/K20P48M50SF0RM.pdf (http://cache.freescale.com/files/32bit/doc/ref_manual/K20P48M50SF0RM.pdf) Chapter 45 (pg. 1039).i think there's strictly more functionality on the kinetis you're using for the infinity than on that atmel chip, so hijacking a GPIO should be fine as long as the pin isn't being used in the current codebase. a uart output module is also a generally nice thing to have in the codebase regardless.
I have a debug module I use for using UART0 on the Infinity keyboard (mk20dx128vlf5), all the code to use it is already there.
https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/blob/master/Output/uartOut/arm/uart_serial.c
Most of the work is likely creating a new Output module (https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/tree/master/Output (https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/tree/master/Output)) that sends the USB descriptors via UART instead of USB.
Because the PCBs are still a ways out, if you want a dev board a Teensy 3.0 will work quite well (very close in specs). A 3.1 will also work, but you might run into some incompatibilities (unlikely though). I'm pretty busy right now with the Infinity ErgoDox, but you can find me on the #geekhack @ irc.freenode.net IRC channel if you want faster question response.
there are a number of atmel reference boards that have BT phy/chip radio in a can with a really nice tiny footprint; they're basically attinys or atmegas with a mixed more BT core onboard. i went looking around at the BT options recently and iirc those were the cheapest and nicest packages i found.
Post by: fatchoi on Wed, 08 April 2015, 09:08:14
Post by: JWK on Wed, 08 April 2015, 11:43:17
<snip> Rest assured, the new PCBs will be 100% backward compatible with all existing JD40 hardware. The new PCB has more layout options, where the original PCB was a fixed layout. But the original layout is still there, so it can work with existing plates, such as the ones in this GB.
Will this same PCB also be the JD45 PCB?
Post by: jdcarpe on Wed, 08 April 2015, 11:47:59
<snip> Rest assured, the new PCBs will be 100% backward compatible with all existing JD40 hardware. The new PCB has more layout options, where the original PCB was a fixed layout. But the original layout is still there, so it can work with existing plates, such as the ones in this GB.
Will this same PCB also be the JD45 PCB?
No, that is a completely separate project.
Post by: jonlorusso on Thu, 09 April 2015, 15:45:13
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 09 April 2015, 15:49:06
What are the chances this will (ever) be available again on geekhackers? I was pretty late to the show.
Very low. However there are people still looking to sell their kits iirc.
Post by: ImDaBaron on Thu, 09 April 2015, 17:43:35
What are the chances this will (ever) be available again on geekhackers? I was pretty late to the show.
Very low. However there are people still looking to sell their kits iirc.
If someone wants to sell their spot I'm interested
Post by: jonlorusso on Thu, 09 April 2015, 18:15:03
Post by: kravlin on Thu, 09 April 2015, 20:08:23
Post by: Yslen on Fri, 10 April 2015, 07:04:57
Post by: jonlorusso on Fri, 10 April 2015, 11:25:01
Happy to sell mine at cost. Includes the notched plate and spare pcb, if I remember correctly.
What color plates?
Post by: Yslen on Fri, 10 April 2015, 11:27:56
Post by: Skuloth on Fri, 10 April 2015, 11:44:01
I believe I selected raw titanium. I don't know whether there's still the option to change that if the order is taken over by someone else... anyone know?
I feel like the raw plates are locked in at this point. Kawa talked about within the last few pages iirc.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 11 April 2015, 13:02:35
the chances of this gb ever happening again is zero.
Post by: r3nfr0 on Sat, 11 April 2015, 13:03:23
Post by: Thechemist on Tue, 14 April 2015, 11:05:24
Vibex ( missing teensy, hasn't chosen led color )
GSimon ( you are all set, thanks )
Babyeatinwu ( you are all set, thanks )
Ranker ( needs teensy and switches )
Docwlad ( you are all set, thanks )
Since one person sold his order and that person is building his JD himself it opens up one spot for someone to have their JD assembled for free by me, please message me so that I can have your order shipped to me with others.
Edit: I would prefer that it would be someone that hasn't bought all of the essential tools to build their JD or someone that doesn't feel comfortable building theirs.
Post by: Yslen on Tue, 14 April 2015, 17:00:30
Edit: some logistics to sort here. Going to PM mkawa about teensy refund so price above will drop slightly. Also need to check how transfers are going to work... vaguely remember asking this months ago. If this is going to have to be shipped to me (UK) then to somewhere else then there will be a delay/shipping costs.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 14 April 2015, 19:35:47
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 14 April 2015, 19:44:18
i'll ship directly to the new buyer. use the contact form on the site to email me for the teensy refund and i'll get that taken care of asap
I just filled one out as well.
Post by: Yslen on Wed, 15 April 2015, 00:53:35
Post by: PandaSPUR on Thu, 16 April 2015, 12:51:28
I haven't checked on the thread in a while.. figured we'd get emails or PMs if something major happened.
Post by: jonlorusso on Thu, 16 April 2015, 12:58:24
Post by: V1ral on Thu, 16 April 2015, 13:00:15
Although at this point, I don't know if I'm still as enthusiastic about this as I was when I first placed the order. Or if I have the time anymore to assemble it...
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 16 April 2015, 18:35:50
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 16 April 2015, 21:20:57
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 16 April 2015, 21:21:58
has anyone decided on a bluetooth dev kit yet? i'm getting closer to being able to hack on the infinity firmware and a BT mixed mode soc
I am interested but I have not much programming knowledge or advanced soldering skills... :(
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 16 April 2015, 21:22:50
Post by: Greeeg on Thu, 16 April 2015, 21:46:28
has anyone decided on a bluetooth dev kit yet? i'm getting closer to being able to hack on the infinity firmware and a BT mixed mode soc
I've always been planning to use the CC2540. You can buy pre-buit modules for cheaper than a tall cappuccino. (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bluetooth-4-0-BLE-from-serial-communication-module-straight-drive-mode-CC2540-CC2541-RF-BM-S02/32267866296.html)
These module come with a simple serial to bluetooth application. However if you get one with P21/P20 broken out, and have TI's dev tool CC debugger. You can program your own application code, I have seen it work flawlessly running a bluetooth keyboard protocol. The CC2540 has 2 hardware UART modules. Basically all it needs to do is interpret UART messages that the infinity PCB spits out.
I have made a minimal start, but probably won't make much progress without the infinity PCB.
Hardware should be trivial, Might take a bit of testing to determine the ideal location for the bluetooth module to get the best wireless performance.
Post by: Melvang on Thu, 16 April 2015, 21:59:24
What does it take to drill through titanium plates. If i wanted to add a hole to the top plate (for a trackpoint). I understand the PCB will cause other issues. Just wondering about the titanium...
Cobalt drill bit and a drill press. Those drill bits are to hard and fragile to be used with a hand held drill, and in the sizes that you would be working with for that, they would probably be in the $25 - $30 each range.
Ti is no joke trying to machine with traditional cutters.
Post by: jonlorusso on Fri, 17 April 2015, 17:32:04
Quote
they would probably be in the $25 - $30 each range.
almost makes more sense to just cut a new plate. is there a dxf for the plates floating around?
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 17 April 2015, 18:28:02
can we source canned + chipant cc2540 module that doesn't have a counterfeit chip on it? ;)has anyone decided on a bluetooth dev kit yet? i'm getting closer to being able to hack on the infinity firmware and a BT mixed mode soc
I've always been planning to use the CC2540. You can buy pre-buit modules for cheaper than a tall cappuccino. (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bluetooth-4-0-BLE-from-serial-communication-module-straight-drive-mode-CC2540-CC2541-RF-BM-S02/32267866296.html)
These module come with a simple serial to bluetooth application. However if you get one with P21/P20 broken out, and have TI's dev tool CC debugger. You can program your own application code, I have seen it work flawlessly running a bluetooth keyboard protocol. The CC2540 has 2 hardware UART modules. Basically all it needs to do is interpret UART messages that the infinity PCB spits out.
I have made a minimal start, but probably won't make much progress without the infinity PCB.
Hardware should be trivial, Might take a bit of testing to determine the ideal location for the bluetooth module to get the best wireless performance.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 18 April 2015, 17:43:22
Post by: Greeeg on Sun, 19 April 2015, 04:12:07
Yes. The BR-LE 4.0 S3A you linked to states this in the description "Each BR-LE 4.0-S3A utilizes the TI CC2541 SoC".can we source canned + chipant cc2540 module that doesn't have a counterfeit chip on it? ;)has anyone decided on a bluetooth dev kit yet? i'm getting closer to being able to hack on the infinity firmware and a BT mixed mode soc
I've always been planning to use the CC2540. You can buy pre-buit modules for cheaper than a tall cappuccino. (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bluetooth-4-0-BLE-from-serial-communication-module-straight-drive-mode-CC2540-CC2541-RF-BM-S02/32267866296.html)
These module come with a simple serial to bluetooth application. However if you get one with P21/P20 broken out, and have TI's dev tool CC debugger. You can program your own application code, I have seen it work flawlessly running a bluetooth keyboard protocol. The CC2540 has 2 hardware UART modules. Basically all it needs to do is interpret UART messages that the infinity PCB spits out.
I have made a minimal start, but probably won't make much progress without the infinity PCB.
Hardware should be trivial, Might take a bit of testing to determine the ideal location for the bluetooth module to get the best wireless performance.
I just recommended the Chinese ones because they would be cheap for a DIY solution. Also because I have some on my desk.
But if you wanted to sell it on an infinity board. You would probably have to go with a canned version. Also Panasonic do some alright modules. PAN172x but they're harder to solder BGA style boards. ~$17 in individual qty from digikey.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 19 April 2015, 18:55:57
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 21 April 2015, 07:10:16
Post by: SpAmRaY on Tue, 21 April 2015, 08:06:52
for folks who want gold, ray just pitched in for desert gold. any other takers? let's do this!
note we're doing desert gold regardless of whether others want in on it, so no need to think too hard. if you want it, you get it!
Any updates on this?
Post by: Lurch on Tue, 21 April 2015, 09:24:01
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 21 April 2015, 18:19:32
tammi just got back from vacation and is receiving the rest of the plates in a couple of days. she's going to do the colors that aren't gold and bronze first. i have a count on the gold and bronze and the list of colors people have put out there. i'll run them by her when she gets the plates. she's found some colors to be harder to apply, so i've been tossing out colors to her first.for folks who want gold, ray just pitched in for desert gold. any other takers? let's do this!
note we're doing desert gold regardless of whether others want in on it, so no need to think too hard. if you want it, you get it!
Any updates on this?
Post by: Ceedog on Wed, 29 April 2015, 14:18:03
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 30 April 2015, 18:27:27
I am still interested in Vector Purple and Aqua, my original choices. Who do I have to pay off to make that happen?purple's done. is the robin's egg blue close enough to aqua for you? if not, we can work out an aqua.
Hopefully it's not too late to respond to this. :| Robin's egg is probably too light/blue and not enough teal for my preferences (trying to match Hyperfuse...), but would do if there's no other option. I don't remember exactly what it looks like though since the info is scattered throughout this thread. Any chance of the OP being updated to reflect all the changes to the GB?
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sun, 03 May 2015, 19:55:34
My kit had all of the following:
- Extra PCB
- Teensie
- Slotted plate
- Raw finish
I also have MX Clear switches with dark green stickers and clear switch covers. I prepared those for this kit, so I'm willing to sell that along with it.
Post by: cgbuen on Sun, 03 May 2015, 21:10:15
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 04 May 2015, 18:23:56
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 04 May 2015, 18:32:11
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 06 May 2015, 18:13:34
Post by: geniekid on Wed, 06 May 2015, 18:27:23
if it's cool i will do my best to move heaven and earth to gitrdun
I will allow it.
Post by: tbc on Wed, 06 May 2015, 18:32:37
i'm deciding between burnt bronze and gold. is there any chance we can get both plates and an mx switch in the same pic so we can calibrate colors on our end?
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 06 May 2015, 18:53:41
i am hopefully going to be able to help people with trading and with custom colors ex post facto without too much drama or cost. i have finally made some progress on sourcing more material at much more reasonable prices. fingers crossed and i know the second i just wrote that everything's going to come crashing down, but there you go.
realistically, i'm not going to make everyone 100% happy. the realities of budget busting and manufacturing have already come crashing down on that. if i get can get everyone to 75 or 80% i'll be blown away. yet, we try (for 100 we try harder, etc.)
Post by: SpAmRaY on Fri, 08 May 2015, 10:01:23
gold has been collapsed to burnt bronze (there were very few golds). the painter is in a rush to get the plates out the door, so final (desired) numbers have been given for each paint code we ended up with. i expect that there will inevitably be color trades as people color coordinate with switches and keys. note that the most common colors by a mile were purple and titan gray, so there are more than enough of those to go around. there were actually not that many per color of the other colors, so i've filled them in to the best of my ability.
i am hopefully going to be able to help people with trading and with custom colors ex post facto without too much drama or cost. i have finally made some progress on sourcing more material at much more reasonable prices. fingers crossed and i know the second i just wrote that everything's going to come crashing down, but there you go.
realistically, i'm not going to make everyone 100% happy. the realities of budget busting and manufacturing have already come crashing down on that. if i get can get everyone to 75 or 80% i'll be blown away. yet, we try (for 100 we try harder, etc.)
Ok so are you saying I will be getting the custom color in exchange for the teensy you didn't refund or you will now refund the teensy and I'm getting a color I did not want?
Post by: Tiramisuu on Fri, 08 May 2015, 17:14:23
Post by: HaaTa on Fri, 08 May 2015, 17:21:22
Post by: njbair on Fri, 08 May 2015, 17:25:16
Yes. Though it may have some differences in comparison to the smallfry (these are yet to be determined).I would assume no Sorbothane gasket, and probably not titanium plates.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 11 May 2015, 08:01:50
OK I received the teensy refund and while I appreciate that I wanted to address the fact that in the notes of the refund this request was referred to as a snide comment.gold has been collapsed to burnt bronze (there were very few golds). the painter is in a rush to get the plates out the door, so final (desired) numbers have been given for each paint code we ended up with. i expect that there will inevitably be color trades as people color coordinate with switches and keys. note that the most common colors by a mile were purple and titan gray, so there are more than enough of those to go around. there were actually not that many per color of the other colors, so i've filled them in to the best of my ability.
i am hopefully going to be able to help people with trading and with custom colors ex post facto without too much drama or cost. i have finally made some progress on sourcing more material at much more reasonable prices. fingers crossed and i know the second i just wrote that everything's going to come crashing down, but there you go.
realistically, i'm not going to make everyone 100% happy. the realities of budget busting and manufacturing have already come crashing down on that. if i get can get everyone to 75 or 80% i'll be blown away. yet, we try (for 100 we try harder, etc.)
Ok so are you saying I will be getting the custom color in exchange for the teensy you didn't refund or you will now refund the teensy and I'm getting a color I did not want?
First of all this group buy is and has been for a while a complete disaster. What disturbs me the most is mkawa as the forum administrator should be held to a somewhat higher standard however he seems to get a free pass to collect peoples money and mismanage it while doing whatever he wants with it with zero regard for the concerns of the participants.
The only reason I participated was because I thought this buy was led by a responsible person and would be done quickly as the original timeline suggested.
It has been made very clear we as participants have no choice in the matter and we are definitely not getting what we ordered.
I'm sure I'll get another reply to shut my mouth or be banned as I've been warned in the past. Specifically I believe the threat was go along and get along or get out.
Well people need to be able to voice there frustrations and no it may not be helpful but does make me feel better about the money I spent almost a year ago with nothing to show for it.
And to answer the other part of the refund comment, what am I trying to accomplish? I want what was agreed upon previously but clearly that isn't happening.
I understand now this has turned into some twisted never ending 'keyboard science project' that will eventually lead to a final product to be sold on massdrop with everyone in this group buy getting the shaft while funding the beta testing.
But I must be the only one that still cares at this point or at least the only one willing to publicly say something. It's funny what people voice in private but won't say openly.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 11 May 2015, 12:43:29
But I must be the only one that still cares at this point or at least the only one willing to publicly say something. It's funny what people voice in private but won't say openly.
I paid for a notched titanium plate in a very specific colorway, both aspects of which are important to the build. It seems I may still get notched plates, but I'm not sure. Decisions were made to alter the coloring, which I (we) had very little say in. You're not the only one that still cares, I assure you of that.
Post by: r3nfr0 on Mon, 11 May 2015, 12:45:35
That being said, I'm not excited about waiting for an experimental pcb.
Post by: tbc on Mon, 11 May 2015, 12:56:51
i want to reverse a DSA stepped capslock on there
PLEASE PLEASE
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 11 May 2015, 13:16:22
if we're updating the pcb, can we PLEASE add another hole for the 'enter' key.
i want to reverse a DSA stepped capslock on there
PLEASE PLEASE
Not likely to happen. I already set everything in stone for the new PCB, and the design has been finished for a while.
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 11 May 2015, 14:28:33
Post by: GSimon on Tue, 12 May 2015, 01:48:17
One way to look at it is this, when mkawa loses we lose, he's putting in the work/time/effort and by the looks of it he's losing money to get this project shipped out the door. It is what it is, I can sympathize with those who aren't getting what they believe they paid for, though I suppose I'm lucky in that I personally am not too affected by the recent changes and delays.
Having said that I am still eagerly anticipating a JD40 board, having contacted jdcarpe before this buy even began asking him about purchasing one it's been something I've been wanting to have for a while now.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 12 May 2015, 07:36:02
is everyone going to be happy with how this turns out? no. is anyone going to be happy with how this turns out? hopefully. hence, my goal is to avoid the absolute worst case: i am not 7bit. i am not the gh60 gb. i am not asking for anyone to feel better about what this situation. it sucks. i am aware. i am also aware that it is my fault that it sucks.
heck, if i helps you to complain here; if you feel even marginally better after dressing me down, then i say do it.
on that note, i asked ray to please think about what he is trying to accomplish with his comments. if it is getting better kits faster, then the comments simply don't help. these comments don't turn into pcbs, titanium, painting or the additional funds needed to pay all of the above. however, if they help you feel better about a crap situation, then by all means, turn the thread into a pitchfork and gore me with it.
so, will i ever run another large scale science experiment again? absolutely not. am i stuck with this one? yes i am. does goring me make the experiment run more quickly or produce better results? no.
-------------------
i am currently trying to obtain more, cheaper material and cheaper cutting to produce a batch of notched plates to get into paint.
i have an extremely strong lead on cheaper high quality material, but this material is all coming out of the surplus/spot market, so we're hunting for the right material on said market. i will snap it up when it does appear.
i have a lead on a new cutting shop that can make their promised lead times at better pricing.
rainbow is refining their process for painting the plates; i have given them my best effort numbers. every test plate costs about 80$ (assuming that the color is already in stock) and adds another plate that i have to produce with new material.
Post by: GSimon on Tue, 02 June 2015, 09:41:41
Post by: Greeeg on Thu, 04 June 2015, 20:10:28
Any word when MD will do the PCBs?
Post by: Tindron on Thu, 04 June 2015, 21:30:57
remember last year when there was video updates?...good times ^-^
And pictures! ..so many memories..
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 06 June 2015, 18:44:29
andrew has left massdrop. massdrop has since reneged on their schedule, donation and pretty much everything else that was ever said to me. i've given the parties involved enough time, and i give up. at current, i am no longer associated with massdrop.com in any way shape or form.
the concrete plan has changed to me paying for an alternate design courtesy of carpekeyboards and in collaboration with bunnylake at ctrlalt.io, which have always been friends of the site, myself and the community, and won't spend 6 months screwing me and the group of thousands of dollars and hours/weeks of wasted time. if i sound bitter about massdrop, it's because i am; i have expressed this privately, diplomatically for months now, but massdrop.com does not deserve a single dollar from the keyboard community or commercial use of any of the community development that it has taken advantage since its inception.
regarding the new carpekeyboards pcb, it features an integrated controller that runs Hasu's TMK firmware (ie, same firmware as the classic JD40), and has more connectivity around the switches.
bunny has just ordered the first round of prototype boards. we'll be updating more often now that we have control of things again. carpekeyboards is making extremely good progress on the design, and once they're ready to talk about it in more detail, anything they say about their new design will apply to the smallfry as well. we are all paying for this board out of pocket, so please accept some patience on making sure the board is correct and costs are contained; at the moment we're looking at prices around 3x the cost of the original jd40 pcb, so i'm attempting to work out more buyers or less assembly at the factory.
FINAL NOTE: i have never said this explicitly (and no one has ever offered, despite me stating several times that there is no money for donation to the Walter family) BUT if anyone is willing to NOT TAKE DELIVERY of their product, I will donate any and all kit payments directly to the Walter family. Again, I still cannot give refunds, but if you opt to NOT RECEIVE YOUR PRODUCT, I WILL DONATE YOUR PAYMENT TO THE SMALLFRY'S FAMILY.
thanks for your patience everyone.
Post by: BunnyLake on Sat, 06 June 2015, 18:53:52
i was going to write something long and concrete about this to keep speculation down to a minimum, but screw it.
andrew has left massdrop. massdrop has since reneged on their schedule, donation and pretty much everything else that was ever said to me. i've given the parties involved enough time, and i give up. at current, i am no longer associated with either massdrop.com in any way shape or form.
the concrete plan has changed to me paying for an alternate design courtesy of carpekeyboards and in collaboration with bunnylake at ctrlalt.io, which have always been friends of the site, myself and the community, and won't spend 6 months screwing me and the group of thousands of dollars and hours/weeks of wasted time. if i sound bitter about massdrop, it's because i am; i have expressed this privately, diplomatically for months now, but massdrop.com does not deserve a single dollar from the keyboard community or commercial use of any of the community development that it has taken advantage since its inception.
regarding the new carpekeyboards pcb, it features an integrated controller that runs Hasu's TMK firmware (ie, same firmware as the classic JD40), and has more connectivity around the switches.
bunny has just ordered the first round of prototype boards. we'll be updating more often now that we have control of things again. carpekeyboards is making extremely good progress on the design, and once they're ready to talk about it in more detail, anything they say about their new design will apply to the smallfry as well. we are all paying for this board out of pocket, so please accept some patience on making sure the board is correct and costs are contained; at the moment we're looking at prices around 3x the cost of the original jd40 pcb, so i'm attempting to work out more buyers or less assembly at the factory.
FINAL NOTE: i have never said this explicitly (and no one has ever offered, despite me stating several times that there is no money for donation to the Walter family) BUT if anyone is willing to NOT TAKE DELIVERY of their product, I will donate any and all kit payments directly to the Walter family. Again, I still cannot give refunds, but if you opt to NOT RECEIVE YOUR PRODUCT, I WILL DONATE YOUR PAYMENT TO THE SMALLFRY'S FAMILY.
thanks for your patience everyone.
its not much, but rather than donations only happen when people give up their order
ill donate $5 to smallfrys family for every board you get delivered in this buy sir
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 06 June 2015, 18:58:50
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 06 June 2015, 19:15:55
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sat, 06 June 2015, 19:23:47
If you sneed a bronze guinea pig at this point I will volunteer my plates to be painted whatever bronze they have if I can get it now, I'll even pay rainbow to ship it to me.
And thanks for the update, I never trusted massdrop anyway.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 06 June 2015, 19:34:53
purple:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=10152708793670869&id=337716255868
burnt bronze:
https://www.facebook.com/337716255868/photos/pb.337716255868.-2207520000.1433637236./10152834340060869/?type=3&theater
green and blue:
https://www.facebook.com/337716255868/photos/pb.337716255868.-2207520000.1433637238./10152832995690869/?type=3&theater
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 06 June 2015, 19:36:50
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 06 June 2015, 19:38:10
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sat, 06 June 2015, 19:46:07
i'll pack your stuff up spamray.Thanks. Let me know if you need some extra shipping money.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 06 June 2015, 19:49:39
Similarly, can I pay a separate shipping fee to have my PCB and hardware shipped separately? Or at least use my Teensy money, if that's not going towards paint...can do. pm me your order number to remind me.
Post by: Greeeg on Sat, 06 June 2015, 21:14:21
Can I tag along with CeeDog? Get all the machainical stuff shipped now, and pay extra shipping for the PCB when that's ready.
Assuming the plates have been painted in my order colours. PM Sent.
So with the change of PCB's this means the board will no longer be Infinty compatible? Is that design locked into massdrop, and they won't let us use it?
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 07 June 2015, 10:36:35
I'm willing to donate a part of that refund afterward.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 07 June 2015, 11:05:28
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 07 June 2015, 11:12:34
i've found and committed to a new supply of titanium and have found a new less expensive cutter to manufacture and cut some of the losses from the notched plates. because i've committed to the new material, can't refund the notched plates. i am absolutely willing to donate notched plate payments though.
Thanks for the reply. I want to keep things unchanged and get the notched plate. I will make some donation after I receive the whole kit. Please remind me again later. :)
Post by: njbair on Sun, 07 June 2015, 15:17:26
mkawa, knowing that all this has been going on in the background and that you've opted to take the misplaced blame rather than slinging mud, that shows a lot of integrity. Good for you.
Post by: Spopepro on Sun, 07 June 2015, 16:02:55
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 07 June 2015, 19:31:52
Post by: inanis on Sun, 07 June 2015, 20:43:08
Post by: SL89 on Sun, 07 June 2015, 21:20:32
if i sound bitter about massdrop, it's because i am; i have expressed this privately, diplomatically for months now, but massdrop.com does not deserve a single dollar from the keyboard community or commercial use of any of the community development that it has taken advantage of since its inception.
FINAL NOTE: i have never said this explicitly (and no one has ever offered, despite me stating several times that there is no money for donation to the Walter family) BUT if anyone is willing to NOT TAKE DELIVERY of their product, I will donate any and all kit payments directly to the Walter family. Again, I still cannot give refunds, but if you opt to NOT RECEIVE YOUR PRODUCT, I WILL DONATE YOUR PAYMENT TO THE SMALLFRY'S FAMILY.
MD has always rubbed me the wrong way... this certainly helps seal that deal.
Mkawa, is there a way to just directly donate to the project / cause?
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 07 June 2015, 21:52:49
on that note, how would people feel about a krytox variety pack?
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 07 June 2015, 22:03:30
https://geekhack.org/donate.html
it usually generates a few dollars here and there; has helped a bit to defray cost of the geekhack github account, helped support engineering for the artisans i work with, etc. if you mention the smallfry kit in the comment field on your donation, it will either help defray the budget overages for the kit, or be donated to the Walter family. that is, there is a chunk of my income already budgeted towards completing the smallfry kit and a donation to the Walter family. donations given via the button will join that fund.
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 07 June 2015, 22:16:29
Post by: r3nfr0 on Mon, 08 June 2015, 07:12:24
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 08 June 2015, 07:20:11
Post by: r3nfr0 on Mon, 08 June 2015, 07:21:04
Post by: BunnyLake on Mon, 08 June 2015, 07:49:50
CtrlAlt website says they are down for website rebuild
just sit tight, these new pcbs arent gonna be some indefinite wait like with massdrop, we accomplished more in a week than they had in months, its all designed and ready, we aer gonna quickly tes thte protos, then they will get ordered, the turnaround time will be very low
Post by: r3nfr0 on Mon, 08 June 2015, 07:50:20
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 08 June 2015, 08:31:25
(http://i.imgur.com/eey2pcI.png)
This is being sent to manufacture for prototypes now. As soon as we are sure we have a 100% working PCB, orders will be placed for the production run (about 4-6 weeks probably).
Huge thanks to Wilba for the PCB redesign, and to BunnyLake and mkawa for their continued support.
Post by: GSimon on Mon, 08 June 2015, 12:32:39
Sneak peek of the new PCB render for you guys.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eey2pcI.png)
This is being sent to manufacture for prototypes now. As soon as we are sure we have a 100% working PCB, orders will be placed for the production run (about 4-6 weeks probably).
Huge thanks to Wilba for the PCB redesign, and to BunnyLake and mkawa for their continued support.
That looks sweet.
Post by: Vibex on Mon, 08 June 2015, 14:57:14
Sneak peek of the new PCB render for you guys.Very nice. :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eey2pcI.png)
This is being sent to manufacture for prototypes now. As soon as we are sure we have a 100% working PCB, orders will be placed for the production run (about 4-6 weeks probably).
Huge thanks to Wilba for the PCB redesign, and to BunnyLake and mkawa for their continued support.
Post by: r3nfr0 on Mon, 08 June 2015, 15:29:08
Post by: njbair on Mon, 08 June 2015, 17:28:06
Is this going to have all the diodes and stuff on it? That seems to be the trend lately.Since they are SMD components, I would assume so.
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 08 June 2015, 18:26:45
Is this going to have all the diodes and stuff on it? That seems to be the trend lately.Since they are SMD components, I would assume so.
Yes, the plan is to have everything but switches installed at the fab. It is a few dollars extra per PCB, but worth it in the end, in my opinion.
Post by: njbair on Mon, 08 June 2015, 19:17:17
It is a few dollars extra per PCB, but worth it in the end, in my opinion.
As someone without proper SMD soldering gear, I would have to agree.
Post by: r3nfr0 on Mon, 08 June 2015, 19:18:36
Post by: Greeeg on Mon, 08 June 2015, 23:59:54
It is a few dollars extra per PCB, but worth it in the end, in my opinion.
As someone without proper SMD soldering gear, I would have to agree.
As someone WITH proper soldering equipment, and a day job soldering components. I would also agree.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 12 June 2015, 09:19:09
it sounds like the new titanium supply is ready to ship. i need to coordinate with the new cutter and double check/potentially update the drawings i have (courtesy JD); hopefully i'll have some free time to do so on monday.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Fri, 12 June 2015, 09:24:33
Post by: lekashman on Fri, 12 June 2015, 14:26:02
First things first, I am no longer an employee at Massdrop so I can’t speak for what they actually are going to execute on going forward, but I’d like to let everyone know exactly what I committed to so that some of the Massdrop hate here is alleviated.
I offered to assist mkawa with the SmallFry Keyboard Kit because the project was suffering from enormous delays and I had been working on putting together a 40% keyboard project for quite a while.
The process of implementing someone else’s keyboard design is a complex task because it is of utmost importance to get their full permission and blessing before proceeding, so I reached out to jdcarpe and received his go-ahead to use his design.
I then approached Input Club, who designed the Infinity 60%, and discussed their availability to work on a project like this, and they said that they were interested and would add it to their pipeline of tasks. I communicated this information to mkawa as an intermediary and set up a brief introduction between him and Input Club.
I then proceeded to do a financial analysis with mkawa into what had happened to the SmallFry Keyboard Kit so far, tracking where all of the money had gone and what it was spent on. Mkawa told me that the PCB’s hadn’t been ordered yet, and I told him that we could leverage Massdrop’s buying power to bundle his order for PCB’s into the larger Massdrop order for Infinity 40% PCB’s. If we did this, it would make the cost of the PCB quite a bit lower, and everyone who had participated in the SmallFry kit would be receiving a significantly upgraded piece of technology.
Let’s take this opportunity to clarify something.
Mkawa already collected your money for a PCB when everyone first joined this group buy. Massdrop has never collected any money from anyone in this thread and therefore is not able to “screw anyone over” or shortchange anyone. Literally all Massdrop can do at this point in time is help lower costs and provide upgraded technology. In units of 1000, the Infinity 40% assembled will be quite affordable, and be the obvious choice when compared to the price for 100 blank JD40s + Teensy 2.0s.
Back to our narrative, at this point in time while mkawa and I were figuring out these aspects of the situation, mkawa had agreed to send me all of the money left over from the initial Group Buy that was allocated toward PCB manufacture, which at the time was communicated to be “a few thousand dollars” (1, possibly 2). This is probably where some of the confusion has arrived on the topic of Massdrop “providing the PCBs” has come from. When organizing a joint project where people from around the world are contributing different parts, it is typical to have clear descriptions of who is actually going to be creating, or providing each aspect of the overall project.
I agreed that if he sent me all of the parts he had already purchased, we would order the PCB’s and fulfill the order from our warehouse which would dramatically lower the cost incurred to ship all of these out. Mkawa had agreed to completely cover the cost of outbound shipping from our warehouse, but that Massdrop would use their UPS account to get a better rate.
The cost savings to mkawa and the entire group for doing all of this work were going to be extremely significant and do remember that I had absolutely no obligation to do any of this work. All of this was simply because I thought it was the right thing to do and I saw that you had all been waiting for quite a while for your keyboards and I wanted to offer my help. There are a lot of accusations and attacks going on in this thread and I really consider that hardly reasonable considering that this isn’t Massdrop’s mess in the slightest. Massdrop is simply going to do it’s due diligence on this keyboard and is going to release an Infinity 40% regardless and if everyone in this thread wants to be a part of that, they are generously offering to allow you to participate and instead of getting an obsolete keyboard delivered over a year late, you have the opportunity to type on a state of the art, fully programmable version designed by Input Club.
Don’t turn this into something it’s not and make Massdrop into some kind of villain for going significantly out of their way to give you cheaper and cooler stuff. Doing so would set an incredibly bad precedent for ever helping with this sort of situation ever again.
If anyone has any questions or wants me to clarify anything in more detail, I am happy to do so.
Post by: byker on Fri, 12 June 2015, 14:44:13
Post by: lekashman on Fri, 12 June 2015, 15:26:59
Post by: jdcarpe on Fri, 12 June 2015, 15:58:53
Post by: fatchoi on Fri, 12 June 2015, 20:19:48
Post by: jdcarpe on Fri, 12 June 2015, 20:43:34
Sounds like MD wants to steal the design so offering sort of help. And later "clarify" to break the deal. Now that design is stolen, no effort worked out by MD. Shameful.It's not really like that, but I did decide to go in a different direction for the project.
Post by: Greeeg on Fri, 12 June 2015, 20:55:45
Can some of these pins be used for UART or SPI? To facilitate a Bluetooth add on? ☺
Post by: Wilba on Fri, 12 June 2015, 21:40:49
You can either cut a track near the USB socket or desolder the fuse to disconnect USB 5V from Vcc, for doing battery power.
However, I didn't address such issues as the ATMega using a 16Mhz crystal with 3.3V supply (technically overclocking), sleep modes for power saving, a voltage regulator for battery power, power management to prevent lipo cells depleting below 2.5V, etc. I just basically made it hackable. ;D
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 13 June 2015, 00:28:12
for battery power, i would actually advocate for two leads and no charging provisions -- it's a lot of extra parts for something that most won't use. instead, the case designers should make it possible to mount a simple 2x AAA leaded housing. again, with the BTLE socs power draws hitting near zero quiescent, fancy lipo cells are unnecessary. frankly, it's a keyboard, not an android phone.
finally, i would prefer that further discussion about massdrop be taken elsewhere. massdrop is no longer involved in this gb, fullstop.
i have said my piece on that situation, and i don't have anything more to say, nor will i retract anything that i have said. i do not wish to discuss it any further.
frankly, i have had more bile and feces slung at me because of geekhack in the last few years than i ever imagined possible. yet, unlike a particular co-founder of massdrop, i've never called anyone who has said mean things about me at their work in the middle of a work day to harangue them about the mean things they wrote about me on the internet. geekhack is not my job. i am not going to drop everything while i am working at my actual job to discuss how offended you are that i made harsh statements about your company. for me, that is the end of this discussion. thanks all for your understanding.
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 13 June 2015, 00:58:59
I have made a small remark, so that you know the money was for this Smallfry project.
Keep up the work please. Thanks for your efforts.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 13 June 2015, 13:06:01
grabbing quotes from shops next week.
Post by: ImDaBaron on Sat, 13 June 2015, 16:38:03
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 15 June 2015, 08:30:38
@mkawa, I'd like to confirm my plate colors of purple and Robin's Egg Blue (I wasn't sure if that would fit my needs before, but I think it will be fine). Additionally, I'm still interested in the notched plates and would like to cover any additional costs incurred to make that happen. When this completes, could you let me know the *actual* cost of my kit (+ original donation amount) so I can cover that accordingly?
Post by: cgbuen on Thu, 18 June 2015, 00:46:07
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 18 June 2015, 06:25:26
going to pack up the partials tomorrow and get them to the PO when I get back into town on wed.
Just checking to see if this happened? Thanks.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 18 June 2015, 11:31:57
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 20 June 2015, 07:31:15
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 20 June 2015, 08:55:54
Post by: njbair on Sun, 21 June 2015, 19:21:10
re: costing. the plates alone ended up costing somewhere in the realm of 120 per kit. (well, a bit more than that due to shipping costs, other misc ancillaries)
$120 for two plates? Wow, that's surprising.
Out of curiosity, just because I'm a former tool & die maker and manufacturing processes interest me, can you ballpark the cost breakdown for materials/fabrication/finishing/shipping?
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 22 June 2015, 04:23:49
it was a learning experience, but the upside is that i know how to cut costs in future.
Post by: mkawa on Mon, 22 June 2015, 06:50:41
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 25 June 2015, 09:00:36
5. i should actually be able to pack up the partial kits i owe people today.
Any chance these are going out soon?
Post by: Peglah on Thu, 25 June 2015, 20:41:59
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 25 June 2015, 20:52:58
Will this keyboard be compatible with ISO layout?This keyboard is way too small to support either standard ANSI or ISO. And if you mean only the ISO Enter, no to that also. :)
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 02 July 2015, 19:59:46
5. i should actually be able to pack up the partial kits i owe people today.
Any chance these are going out soon?
ok, so i have:
a couple different fastener choices that i'd like people to try out
stabs
usb jacks that aren't super useful anymore, but hey, if you still need one, bam!
plates
gaskets
the new fastener scheme is o-ring secured. there is a bolt and a locknut for each mounting hole on the board. the bolt and nut are designed so that there is a teensy bit of space between the top of the bolt and the plate. the o-ring is then stretched between the bolt-head on the top plate and the bolt head on the bottom plate.
the idea is for it to work like this:
(http://gearmoose.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/omega-titanium-wallet-e1359048828201.jpg)
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 02 July 2015, 21:50:48
I guess I'll just have to hope this shows up at some point I'm sick of coming to this thread and getting pissed every time because of the empty commitments.
Post by: Greeeg on Thu, 02 July 2015, 22:01:13
5. i should actually be able to pack up the partial kits i owe people today.
Any chance these are going out soon?
ok, so i have:
a couple different fastener choices that i'd like people to try out
stabs
usb jacks that aren't super useful anymore, but hey, if you still need one, bam!
plates
gaskets
the new fastener scheme is o-ring secured. there is a bolt and a locknut for each mounting hole on the board. the bolt and nut are designed so that there is a teensy bit of space between the top of the bolt and the plate. the o-ring is then stretched between the bolt-head on the top plate and the bolt head on the bottom plate.
the idea is for it to work like this:Show Image(http://gearmoose.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/omega-titanium-wallet-e1359048828201.jpg)
I'm not quite sure how this will work for a keyboard. For the wallet it's pressing the pates against the flat stack of cards. and it makes sense, because you want to be able to remove and insert cards.
The keyboard is always at a constant spacing... Won't we require standoffs to ensure the plates are aligned anyway, or is the sorbathane gasket rigid enough to ensure this?
The wallet also appears to have machines grooves for the oring to sit, so it doesn't protrude out so much. This would add signifigant cost to the pates, as it is a different machine method.
So while I guess it looks nice on the wallet. I guess what I'm getting at is what does it add to the keyboard that a standoff between the plates wouldn't?
Post by: nubbinator on Thu, 02 July 2015, 22:37:18
At some point the innovating has to end so these can be fulfilled. There is always another delay.
I guess I'll just have to hope this shows up at some point I'm sick of coming to this thread and getting pissed every time because of the empty commitments.
Slowly becoming GH60, round 2.
Post by: mkawa on Thu, 02 July 2015, 22:52:36
yes, the gasket is 80 duro (hard), and the previous expectation was that the user would poke holes in them for long fasteners, which i could not find (i think dorkvader has them).
i am still happy to actually donate money to the walter family for those who have any concern for charity and don't just enjoy *****ing. if you do not believe that you will ever receive product (unless you complain? i don't know, you are the one doing the reasoning here), which is the total of your liability in this project, then please let me know and you will not receive product, but i will donate your entire contribution to the walter family.
thanks.
Post by: byker on Fri, 03 July 2015, 00:18:01
i didn't have fasteners, so i bought some fasteners and some o-rings. but OK, i will send your kit without fasteners ray. i think i will also send it by throwing it at your head.
yes, the gasket is 80 duro (hard), and the previous expectation was that the user would poke holes in them for long fasteners, which i could not find (i think dorkvader has them).
i am still happy to actually donate money to the walter family for those who have any concern for charity and don't just enjoy *****ing. if you do not believe that you will ever receive product (unless you complain? i don't know, you are the one doing the reasoning here), which is the total of your liability in this project, then please let me know and you will not receive product, but i will donate your entire contribution to the walter family.
thanks.
I know you are no longer an admin, but this comment seems extremely rude. You said, almost two weeks ago, that you would ship, and I quote, "today". Ray is already accepting something less than what he ordered (Plates instead of pcb/plates). And from my perspective, Ray isnt even complaining, let alone *****ing. He asked if you followed your word from two weeks ago, and then stated that he is sick of all of these empty commitments. You keep innovating, yet from what I can see, most people just want what they signed up for. Anyways Im no longer in this gb so I will stop commenting..
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 03 July 2015, 00:54:51
if this were a community group buy, about 20 people would have just dropped out of running it and/or disappeared from the face of the earth. but this isn't. this is my group buy, and even though i am paying for people to make snide remarks about me, i continue to do so. i don't appreciate these snide remarks, and there are many ways that you can extricate yourself from this particular situation such that you would feel no need to make the snide remarks and i wouldn't have to listen to them. yet, here i am.
as you say, i have been held to a certain decorum in the past, but putting one's chin up for people who blame you for pretty much everything bad that happens in their internet and/or consumer life has taken its toll. i will deliver these things to you, but at this point the schedule in which i do that is going to have to live within the realm of possibility, which may not be compatible with your patience. sorry, but that's how it's going to have to work. now if you'll excuse me, i have to manage the quoting out, paying for and logistics of cutting another 50lbs of titanium sheet, test fitment of the new pcb in the old gasket design, design a new fastener system that is reliable and repeatable, work with exotic industrial lubricants to provide something cool and previously unobtainable to the community, and put 60-70 hours a week into the job that pays for all this. does it excuse being late? not really. but them's the breaks sometimes.
i'm in a pretty crappy position, you're in a crappy position (albeit a hundred dollars of crappy position vs a few thousand+), and the least we can do is not try to make it more crappy for each other than it has to be.
thanks.
Post by: Tindron on Fri, 03 July 2015, 01:38:24
Post by: SpAmRaY on Fri, 03 July 2015, 06:40:22
Please don't spend anymore of your money on me, send me what I've asked for and I'll gladly pay you an additional $13 for shipping after I receive the items.
Mkawa, clearly you are a broken person. I'm sorry to see what you've become and do hope you get some help.
Post by: cjhard on Fri, 03 July 2015, 09:47:46
yes, i hadn't done that yet, and yes, it was quite rude, and frankly pretty satisfying. i work very long hours at a job that pays me money, and then i use that money, which is not money that was paid to me by spamray, to finish production (and, because of the way these things work, i have to produce about 2x what my obligation is, in addition to the budget blowing out for every single ordered kit). this project eats up time and money that i would love to put elsewhere, for example, into a donation to smallfry's family or their choice of charity.
if this were a community group buy, about 20 people would have just dropped out of running it and/or disappeared from the face of the earth. but this isn't. this is my group buy, and even though i am paying for people to make snide remarks about me, i continue to do so. i don't appreciate these snide remarks, and there are many ways that you can extricate yourself from this particular situation such that you would feel no need to make the snide remarks and i wouldn't have to listen to them. yet, here i am.
as you say, i have been held to a certain decorum in the past, but putting one's chin up for people who blame you for pretty much everything bad that happens in their internet and/or consumer life has taken its toll. i will deliver these things to you, but at this point the schedule in which i do that is going to have to live within the realm of possibility, which may not be compatible with your patience. sorry, but that's how it's going to have to work. now if you'll excuse me, i have to manage the quoting out, paying for and logistics of cutting another 50lbs of titanium sheet, test fitment of the new pcb in the old gasket design, design a new fastener system that is reliable and repeatable, work with exotic industrial lubricants to provide something cool and previously unobtainable to the community, and put 60-70 hours a week into the job that pays for all this. does it excuse being late? not really. but them's the breaks sometimes.
i'm in a pretty crappy position, you're in a crappy position (albeit a hundred dollars of crappy position vs a few thousand+), and the least we can do is not try to make it more crappy for each other than it has to be.
thanks.
You are a legend. A smaller man would have bowed out, refunded as much as he could, and offered an apology towards the investments that could not be returned. You are not that smaller man. Right now you are taking a beating for events that were unfortunate, but understandable.
Logistics is ****ing hard. Large corporations spend billions on massive bloated CRM solutions, customizing them to fit their requirements, and still mess up. Often. As a member of a community, you have the expectation of delivering completed product to everybody who entered the buy, don't have the luxury of just buying them off when you can't provide that first part, and still be able to stand when the day is done. Take the flames with a particle of salt, the people are upset, but that does not stop you. After the buy is over, someone else will swindle them out of their money but they'll have a pretty sweet special edition Titanium 40%. Their anger train will chug along elsewhere.
Stay gold Ponyboy.
Post by: telepete on Fri, 03 July 2015, 12:21:23
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 04 July 2015, 02:22:26
Post by: hwood34 on Mon, 06 July 2015, 16:16:21
I have far bigger problems than late keyboards and I'm jealous of anyone who doesn't. God bless you complainers and your first world problems. Hopefully you all survive your terminal hang nails and stage 4 mustard stains. Hang in there mkawa.Oh yea, such first world problems, not getting stuff you paid for.
Post by: telepete on Mon, 06 July 2015, 16:19:45
Post by: hwood34 on Mon, 06 July 2015, 17:09:57
If the 'stuff' isn't food or shelter then yes. That's more or less the definition of a first world problem.Yes but most people don't go around diminishing other people's complaints about a product simply because that thing isn't literally essential to their survival.
Post by: telepete on Mon, 06 July 2015, 17:16:37
Post by: hwood34 on Mon, 06 July 2015, 18:48:45
Most people shouldn't be complaining here at. I'm really very sorry about your little keyboard but you should go complain elsewhere. Since this thread is meant for updates relating to the buy you can go start a thread of your own. You can call it 'hwood34's Tears' and you can cry about late GB's and how horrible mkawa is for trying to remedy this situation. I don't care about your feelings. In order to end this inane conversation, I will not be responding to whatever wimpy remark you are about to make.Well actually it's a group buy thread, so literally anything relating to the buy belongs in here. I'm not even in the buy, I just don't like people saying that having concerns isn't a valid stance. He wouldn't have to remedy a situation if one was never caused in the first place, and the way he's going about it isn't the right way in many people's eyes
Post by: Spopepro on Mon, 06 July 2015, 23:21:24
<snip> I'm not even in the buy, </snip>
I see.
Perhaps you grew tired of also commenting in Harry's TaiHao thread, the GH60 thread, and any other GB thread that didn't meet your standards for justice?
Look, this is a mess and no one will claim otherwise. Some people are more upset than others, and others would call mkawa a friend and get upset in the other direction. As someone *even in this groupbuy* imho it's best to leave emotion at the door and recognize that GB is not retail and this isn't as bad as it could be. Anger and frustration is understandable but not really productive. Arguments with people with no skin in the game is even less so.
Post by: hwood34 on Mon, 06 July 2015, 23:22:30
I was just defending the position of those who wish to complain, not complaining about the buy myself.
<snip> I'm not even in the buy, </snip>
I see.
Perhaps you grew tired of also commenting in Harry's TaiHao thread, the GH60 thread, and any other GB thread that didn't meet your standards for justice?
Look, this is a mess and no one will claim otherwise. Some people are more upset than others, and others would call mkawa a friend and get upset in the other direction. As someone *even in this groupbuy* imho it's best to leave emotion at the door and recognize that GB is not retail and this isn't as bad as it could be. Anger and frustration is understandable but not really productive. Arguments with people with no skin in the game is even less so.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 08 July 2015, 08:51:50
Post by: r3nfr0 on Wed, 08 July 2015, 09:00:21
Post by: sth on Wed, 08 July 2015, 09:23:51
Post by: Skuloth on Wed, 08 July 2015, 09:23:56
Are the cases being held together by screws as well or just those orings?
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 08 July 2015, 09:51:05
sth: up to the mods.
all: you know, if you're in the boston area and would like to help, my door is always open to geekers.
Post by: Skuloth on Wed, 08 July 2015, 10:02:21
i've tried bolts before, and can order more long bolts.. long bolts require poking a hole through the gasket, which usually resulted in some misalignment of the gasket.. there's no point in doing both the o-rings and long bolts. the o-rings tension the gasket into compression, and the nut side of the bolts holds the gasket in place laterally without having to poke holes through anything. i have fitment for long bolts though, so i can do both, and make more gaskets available for purchase if you poke holes and then decide to switch.
sth: up to the mods.
all: you know, if you're in the boston area and would like to help, my door is always open to geekers.
I guess I'll need to play around with it when we actually get our hands on these. I may just default back to the posts that normal JD40s use instead of the gasket
Post by: Tindron on Thu, 09 July 2015, 03:07:33
Post by: njbair on Thu, 09 July 2015, 13:27:55
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 09 July 2015, 13:30:14
I'm curious if it's a solid loop or not.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 09 July 2015, 17:49:52
is it totally out of line of me to offer my JD40 for sale here to people who missed the group buy?
sth: up to the mods.
Group Buy threads are the place to sell your spot if you do not have the item in hand yet (as is the case here) - it's kind of hidden in the Classifieds rules, quoted below. The organizer must agree to change the shipment info on their end, we can't force that. In the event that they do not cooperate, it's best to wait for shipment and sell it in Classifieds. If this is confusing, please let me know. :)
If you are trying to sell your spot in a group buy, you should do so in the corresponding group buy thread instead of in the Classifieds.
mkawa, thank you for seeing this through to the end. I appreciate the hard work and personal money you've put into this.
Post by: Greeeg on Thu, 09 July 2015, 18:03:32
is it totally out of line of me to offer my JD40 for sale here to people who missed the group buy?sth: up to the mods.
Group Buy threads are the place to sell your spot if you do not have the item in hand yet (as is the case here) - it's kind of hidden in the Classifieds rules, quoted below. The organizer must agree to change the shipment info on their end, we can't force that. In the event that they do not cooperate, it's best to wait for shipment and sell it in Classifieds. If this is confusing, please let me know. :)If you are trying to sell your spot in a group buy, you should do so in the corresponding group buy thread instead of in the Classifieds.
I thought he was talking about the JD40 not the smallfry kit. ie he has a JD40 in his hands. And wants to sell it. Thinking that people looking at this thread might be a good target audience. I may have misinterpreted though.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 09 July 2015, 18:45:00
is it totally out of line of me to offer my JD40 for sale here to people who missed the group buy?sth: up to the mods.
Group Buy threads are the place to sell your spot if you do not have the item in hand yet (as is the case here) - it's kind of hidden in the Classifieds rules, quoted below. The organizer must agree to change the shipment info on their end, we can't force that. In the event that they do not cooperate, it's best to wait for shipment and sell it in Classifieds. If this is confusing, please let me know. :)If you are trying to sell your spot in a group buy, you should do so in the corresponding group buy thread instead of in the Classifieds.
I thought he was talking about the JD40 not the smallfry kit. ie he has a JD40 in his hands. And wants to sell it. Thinking that people looking at this thread might be a good target audience. I may have misinterpreted though.
Oh, I hadn't even considered that possibility. sth, please clarify. :)
Post by: sth on Fri, 10 July 2015, 01:36:25
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 10 July 2015, 08:35:48
yes that - i have one that jdcarpe made.
I see, that makes sense. Please create a classifieds thread as usual, but feel free to mention it / post a link in here for anyone that missed out. All discussion should be kept to the classifieds thread, of course.
Post by: Lostwave on Fri, 10 July 2015, 09:06:34
Post by: Vio on Sat, 11 July 2015, 23:55:31
dark blues ended up turning into purple due to the need to compress colorsby dark blue, you don't mean ridgeway blue do you? Ridgeway blue is still happening right?
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 12 July 2015, 19:00:03
Any chance we can get a picture of just the gasket?
I'm curious if it's a solid loop or not.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqqrwojt0894x5b/2015-07-12%2019.55.57.jpg?dl=0
it's solid with a gap for the usb cable. cost would have been about 5-10x more if we had put holes in. demolding around the holes would have trashed the yield. left is the 80 duro that i ended up going with. right is 40 duro (very soft) with ptfe coating that i tried after vibex reported the 40 duro being too sticky.
next run i'll consider ptfe coated 80 duro, but i'm thinking of a somewhat different gasket design for larger keyboards (Xs like bridge supports through the center instead of a gasket around the edges).
JD has spacers if you go that route. double threaded spacers are non-trivially expensive on top of the gasket price. long bolts are fine though. i'll pick up more.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 12 July 2015, 19:01:50
Post by: Skuloth on Sun, 12 July 2015, 19:30:51
Any chance we can get a picture of just the gasket?
I'm curious if it's a solid loop or not.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqqrwojt0894x5b/2015-07-12%2019.55.57.jpg?dl=0
it's solid with a gap for the usb cable. cost would have been about 5-10x more if we had put holes in. demolding around the holes would have trashed the yield. left is the 80 duro that i ended up going with. right is 40 duro (very soft) with ptfe coating that i tried after vibex reported the 40 duro being too sticky.
next run i'll consider ptfe coated 80 duro, but i'm thinking of a somewhat different gasket design for larger keyboards (Xs like bridge supports through the center instead of a gasket around the edges).
JD has spacers if you go that route. double threaded spacers are non-trivially expensive on top of the gasket price. long bolts are fine though. i'll pick up more.
How much would spacers run us, if we picked them up on our own?
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 14 July 2015, 11:46:27
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 14 July 2015, 12:48:07
Any chance we can get a picture of just the gasket?
I'm curious if it's a solid loop or not.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqqrwojt0894x5b/2015-07-12%2019.55.57.jpg?dl=0
it's solid with a gap for the usb cable. cost would have been about 5-10x more if we had put holes in. demolding around the holes would have trashed the yield. left is the 80 duro that i ended up going with. right is 40 duro (very soft) with ptfe coating that i tried after vibex reported the 40 duro being too sticky.
next run i'll consider ptfe coated 80 duro, but i'm thinking of a somewhat different gasket design for larger keyboards (Xs like bridge supports through the center instead of a gasket around the edges).
JD has spacers if you go that route. double threaded spacers are non-trivially expensive on top of the gasket price. long bolts are fine though. i'll pick up more.
How much would spacers run us, if we picked them up on our own?
If you want to buy spacers, you want to order six (6) of these: McMaster-Carr P/N 93330A370, 4-40 threads. http://www.mcmaster.com/
You will need one (1) pack of these 4-40 screws to go with them: McMaster-Carr P/N 91772A105.
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 14 July 2015, 13:39:00
I'll definitely order them when the time gets closer, just to see what I like better.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 18 July 2015, 14:55:46
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 19 July 2015, 11:20:45
hey folks. i'm still alive, but quite ill (not mortally, just regular sick). before this thing hit me like bricks, i was bagging plates. will get back to it when i make it out of bed.
Take care man. Health is far more important than plates..
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 21 July 2015, 13:10:50
Also where are we at currently in production?
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 21 July 2015, 14:25:16
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
I just got the prototype PCB a few days ago, but I haven't had time to build it up yet. It looks good, though, and hopefully production on those can start really soon.
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 21 July 2015, 14:33:23
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
I just got the prototype PCB a few days ago, but I haven't had time to build it up yet. It looks good, though, and hopefully production on those can start really soon.
Sweet. I'm excited to hear how everything goes!
Post by: Lurch on Tue, 21 July 2015, 14:39:14
hey folks. i'm still alive, but quite ill (not mortally, just regular sick). before this thing hit me like bricks, i was bagging plates. will get back to it when i make it out of bed.
keep your germs off my plate!!!!!HJKFH!!!!!VBABWAWAAHHH!!!!!
:p
ps- feel better
Post by: njbair on Tue, 21 July 2015, 21:03:41
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
I just got the prototype PCB a few days ago, but I haven't had time to build it up yet. It looks good, though, and hopefully production on those can start really soon.
Sweet! Regarding the firmware, IIRC this new PCB will run TMK, but I don't see a JD40 config directory in the TMK git repo (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard). Do you have a default config file available elsewhere? I'd love to get an early look at it while we wait.
Post by: Wilba on Tue, 21 July 2015, 21:44:15
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
I just got the prototype PCB a few days ago, but I haven't had time to build it up yet. It looks good, though, and hopefully production on those can start really soon.
Sweet! Regarding the firmware, IIRC this new PCB will run TMK, but I don't see a JD40 config directory in the TMK git repo (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard). Do you have a default config file available elsewhere? I'd love to get an early look at it while we wait.
It's in my fork: https://github.com/Wilba6582/tmk_keyboard
Post by: njbair on Tue, 21 July 2015, 21:51:40
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
I just got the prototype PCB a few days ago, but I haven't had time to build it up yet. It looks good, though, and hopefully production on those can start really soon.
Sweet! Regarding the firmware, IIRC this new PCB will run TMK, but I don't see a JD40 config directory in the TMK git repo (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard). Do you have a default config file available elsewhere? I'd love to get an early look at it while we wait.
It's in my fork: https://github.com/Wilba6582/tmk_keyboard
Thanks, this is perfect!
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 26 July 2015, 11:04:06
hey folks. i'm still alive, but quite ill (not mortally, just regular sick). before this thing hit me like bricks, i was bagging plates. will get back to it when i make it out of bed.
keep your germs off my plate!!!!!HJKFH!!!!!VBABWAWAAHHH!!!!!
:p
ps- feel better
no germs, i just haven't been able to eat solid foods. oh well. liquid diets are fashionable, right? seriously though, i'm doing fine but am actually on a liquid diet. i have a populated prototype pcb in hand that i'm going to mount into a plate.
one note, by the way, if you put 4-40 bolts into these plates, get nylon bolts. the clearance on 4-40s are very very small and will tap into the paint otherwise. here's the part number of some nylon 4-40s on mcmaster: http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=y7zjph
i'll be sticking to 2-56 with nylon washers.
Post by: GSimon on Wed, 29 July 2015, 14:03:14
All I had wanted was a JD40, the one that existent prior to this GB. I don't care for the bells and whistles, the bronze color isn't matte and not reflective metallic as originally described (https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=59203.0;attach=68075;image), and that was the only real preference I had.
Feel bad for the TheChemist for committing to build my board and others, please just do what you can to get these out the door by this point. The time for innovation/changes has long passed, save any improvements for future designs, i.e a SmallFry v2 board, because the changes so far (matted plates, teensy/pcbs 'upgrades') have just thrown the timeline off whack and aren't delivering the board that was originally described to us.
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 01 August 2015, 09:44:36
it will be shipped this year.
Post by: mkawa on Wed, 05 August 2015, 10:57:45
Post by: Skuloth on Wed, 05 August 2015, 11:16:14
update guys: i'm going to try to fly back so i'm in boston again on the 12th. the pcb effort is still chugging along. it's looking pretty good though. i had some other stuff come in while i was gone. doing my best, but the family situation takes priority and well... it's not looking good.. :(
Hopefully everything gets better. Family is more important.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 11 August 2015, 12:07:51
a close family member is terminally ill. there are no interventions left, and it is only a question of when and not if. in addition, he is across the country from me, and has limited help for day-to-day hour-to-hour issues now that i am back in boston.
thank you for your thoughts. i am really officially begging for help at this point (like seriously). if you're in new england, please give me a ring.
-Ming
Post by: digi on Tue, 11 August 2015, 12:12:10
folks,
a close family member is terminally ill. there are no interventions left, and it is only a question of when and not if. in addition, he is across the country from me, and has limited help for day-to-day hour-to-hour issues now that i am back in boston.
thank you for your thoughts. i am really officially begging for help at this point (like seriously). if you're in new england, please give me a ring.
-Ming
That sucks man, thoughts are with you and your fam.
Post by: Skuloth on Tue, 11 August 2015, 12:17:05
folks,
a close family member is terminally ill. there are no interventions left, and it is only a question of when and not if. in addition, he is across the country from me, and has limited help for day-to-day hour-to-hour issues now that i am back in boston.
thank you for your thoughts. i am really officially begging for help at this point (like seriously). if you're in new england, please give me a ring.
-Ming
What specifically do you need help with? I have some friends in boston that may be willing to give you a hand.
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 11 August 2015, 13:49:34
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 11 August 2015, 13:51:40
Post by: Lurch on Tue, 11 August 2015, 13:52:13
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 13 August 2015, 09:32:17
Post by: rpeterclark on Sat, 29 August 2015, 05:51:38
Post by: Vibex on Sun, 30 August 2015, 13:35:08
i mostly need help packing and sorting.I start up class again soon, so I'll be up in boston the 4th. Just let me know if you want me to help. :thumb:
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 01 September 2015, 20:38:43
Post by: Vibex on Thu, 03 September 2015, 19:13:45
vibex, can you talk with dv about finding a weekend day when you can both come over and we can have a packing party? i have to do about 6-6.5 days/wk right now, so give me a heads up so i can fit it into the schedule.Will do :thumb:
Post by: mkawa on Sat, 05 September 2015, 18:17:14
in the meantime, willba, jd and bunny have been keeping very busy. highly suggest checking out their current launches.
Post by: Skuloth on Sat, 05 September 2015, 21:36:52
jd's and willba's prototypes are working. a pack of prototypes sent to bunny were lost in transit :(. i have one unstuffed pcb and one stuffed pcb that needs switches. our pcb vendor is in the state (we're not doing production in china), so production turnaround will be fairly fast once we place the order. i'd like us all to sign off on things before we toss a couple grand at production, so i think i'm going to grab a couple of blanks and parts and do some musical chairs so that bunny gets some protos.
in the meantime, willba, jd and bunny have been keeping very busy. highly suggest checking out their current launches.
Mind sending us some details on the pcbs? I'm curious what the prototypes are like.
Post by: mkawa on Fri, 11 September 2015, 07:14:50
Post by: SpAmRaY on Fri, 11 September 2015, 07:29:03
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 21 September 2015, 21:29:16
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 24 September 2015, 12:15:58
Post by: GSimon on Fri, 02 October 2015, 20:47:02
:))
Guys we're SOL, can we just lock this thread? Or merge it with GH60 thread so we can combine our frustration of unfulfilled projects?
Or I'll just post a 40% weekly so we can at least envision one. Here's this week's photo:
(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=53617.0;attach=51997;image)
photo by user: swill
date: 22/01/14
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 06 October 2015, 10:37:53
I was happy to help with the cause, but now I've lost interest and would rather have the cash for other things.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Tue, 06 October 2015, 10:39:49
Think anyone will want to buy my order if I post it up at a discount?
I was happy to help with the cause, but now I've lost interest and would rather have the cash for other things.
Someone would have to be a complete idiot to buy one of these orders at this point.
I already feel like an idiot for buying one to begin with. :-\
Furthermore I realize there have been many things happen along the way and personal issues in real life but an update if possible would be nice.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Tue, 06 October 2015, 10:48:22
Think anyone will want to buy my order if I post it up at a discount?
I was happy to help with the cause, but now I've lost interest and would rather have the cash for other things.
Someone would have to be a complete idiot to buy one of these orders at this point.
I already feel like an idiot for buying one to begin with. :-\
Sigh :( yea you're probably right.
I guess I'll just wait it out and sell the kit once i have all the pieces.
Bought the 40% hoping to use it for when I travel for work. But by now, I'm already used to carrying my spare 60%.
Post by: Greeeg on Mon, 12 October 2015, 17:25:18
Or was I dreaming?
Would be great to get an update. PCBs been ordered yet?
Post by: GSimon on Sat, 17 October 2015, 13:25:49
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8698/16744552568_25b5494bf3_b.jpg)
user: hoz
Post by: Melvang on Sat, 17 October 2015, 13:29:17
He is dealing with a relative that essentially terminal, on the other side of the country, working 80 hour weeks along with working on his car 2 days a week just to keep it running. He didn't go into details on that.
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 17 October 2015, 19:12:26
Hey guys. I have talked with mkawa. He is still alive. He is going through some stuff right now and asked me to post here.
He is dealing with a relative that essentially terminal, on the other side of the country, working 80 hour weeks along with working on his car 2 days a week just to keep it running. He didn't go into details on that.
That's sad to hear...
Hope his life will go back on track sooner.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 18 October 2015, 11:56:02
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 18 October 2015, 12:01:05
Post by: Wigflip on Tue, 20 October 2015, 15:00:26
Post by: Melvang on Tue, 20 October 2015, 15:30:19
LOL I'm so glad I didn't join this.
These kind of comments are certainly not necessary.
Post by: kravlin on Tue, 20 October 2015, 23:26:56
LOL I'm so glad I didn't join this.
Go be an ******* somewhere else.
Post by: njbair on Tue, 20 October 2015, 23:27:58
Don't worry, wherever he is I'm sure he's already doing that.LOL I'm so glad I didn't join this.
Go be an ******* somewhere else.
Post by: kravlin on Thu, 29 October 2015, 10:47:27
Even if it's just "I'm sick, we're working on X, i'll post something regularly"
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 01 November 2015, 13:06:46
here is the sitch: i have a chronic gastrointestinal disorder. i have a terminally ill family member. i work _a lot_, and it's no secret that i'm not particularly happy about the situation there. however, this is an obligation that is work, and the only thing i enjoy is getting work done. certainly, fixating on the other stuff is not going to be particularly healthy. thanks for patience, and nasty words -- i know frustration well, and yours is justified.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sun, 01 November 2015, 13:39:31
Post by: Tindron on Sun, 01 November 2015, 14:15:46
Post by: mrgoldenzombie on Sun, 01 November 2015, 17:07:59
Post by: MikeTheTiger on Sun, 01 November 2015, 17:22:42
Looks great, Wished I grabbed one when they were in stock.
Me too
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sun, 01 November 2015, 17:29:50
Looks great, Wished I grabbed one when they were in stock.
Looks great, Wished I grabbed one when they were in stock.
Me too
I'm sure there are people who will gladly sell you one.
Post by: Skuloth on Sun, 01 November 2015, 19:08:24
Post by: kravlin on Mon, 02 November 2015, 00:06:10
all the plates are bagged. rainbow found another 25 plates in my pile of stuff that hadn't painted. those are painted and will be headed to me next week. i have to get my fastener guys looking for the fasteners and o-rings needed to get me bulk quotes (there are like 30 parts per kit). i originally specced tiny inch hex fasteners that i will have to change to phillips so that you guys don't have to buy allen wrenches to put things together (or i will have them quote the allen wrenches as well).
here is the sitch: i have a chronic gastrointestinal disorder. i have a terminally ill family member. i work _a lot_, and it's no secret that i'm not particularly happy about the situation there. however, this is an obligation that is work, and the only thing i enjoy is getting work done. certainly, fixating on the other stuff is not going to be particularly healthy. thanks for patience, and nasty words -- i know frustration well, and yours is justified.
Totally understood. life **** happens. Take care of that first. Updates are good, just let us know you're alive every once in a while :) I'm excited, but not worried about getting something soon. I have GH60 to worry about before that. :P
Post by: mkawa on Tue, 03 November 2015, 07:20:48
Pcbs will probably be pick and placed to a bare minimum for cost reasons. Probably just the atmega placed by the factory, but again these guys are local so I'll have a chat.
I just got a deluge of emails, especially involving more plate cuts. The new material is sitting at the cutters waiting for me to nest an entire 4x4' sheet worth of cuts and work out a payment plan with them, since it's going to cost 3k$+ for all those cuts.
Wrt address changes, I will be sending out individual address confirmation emails when I do start sending parts out.
Thanks everyone.
Post by: Melvang on Tue, 03 November 2015, 09:20:29
Yah, I'm alive for some definition of the word, and I have 60-70lbs of titanium plates bagged in my basement. The fastener wholesale guys are local and are going to be a heck of a lot cheaper than McMaster, but they have to go searching for the parts. All the fasteners are nylon to protect the paint, which makes them harder to find in bulk but cheaper when they are found.
Pcbs will probably be pick and placed to a bare minimum for cost reasons. Probably just the atmega placed by the factory, but again these guys are local so I'll have a chat.
I just got a deluge of emails, especially involving more plate cuts. The new material is sitting at the cutters waiting for me to nest an entire 4x4' sheet worth of cuts and work out a payment plan with them, since it's going to cost 3k$+ for all those cuts.
Wrt address changes, I will be sending out individual address confirmation emails when I do start sending parts out.
Thanks everyone.
Sounds good, keep your head up.
Post by: bboyer on Tue, 03 November 2015, 10:48:19
Post by: r3nfr0 on Tue, 03 November 2015, 10:53:38
Post by: Greeeg on Fri, 06 November 2015, 20:29:10
Nice to know that this project is still progressing.
Wish you good health
Post by: tahuds on Tue, 24 November 2015, 19:04:58
Post by: GSimon on Mon, 07 December 2015, 12:02:25
Srs question, will these be shipped this year?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74004.new#new
it will be shipped this year.
Tick tock.
Admit you can't ship them, you got in over your head and are too broke.
Man up, the sympathy card you keep playing expired months ago.
Also people please stop thanking him for his bi-monthly updates (if that). They have been proven to be entirely meaningless and you're just comforting an incompetent GB organizer who was careless with your $
Post by: mashby on Mon, 07 December 2015, 13:55:50
Srs question, will these be shipped this year?https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74004.new#new
it will be shipped this year.
Based on all that mkawa has done for GeekHack and the spirit by which the group buy was created -- that was really hash GSimon.
Ming has been very upfront about his health and family issues and explaining the delays.
Tick tock.
Admit you can't ship them, you got in over your head and are too broke.
Man up, the sympathy card you keep playing expired months ago.
Also people please stop thanking him for his bi-monthly updates (if that). They have been proven to be entirely meaningless and you're just comforting an incompetent GB organizer who was careless with your $
Based on all that mkawa has done for GeekHack in the past and the reasons behind this group buy -- this is really harsh GSimon.
Post by: GSimon on Mon, 07 December 2015, 15:55:54
Based on all that mkawa has done for GeekHack in the past and the reasons behind this group buy -- this is really harsh GSimon.
Past what? Past year where he's been flaking on this GB?
I'm out ~$250, part of my stuff is tied up with TheChemist who may or may not be mia at this point. Maybe if more people were 'harsh', or bluntly accurate as I see it, there would be less unexpected delays and broken commitments from GB leaders who can only deliver on excuses.
Post by: cjhard on Mon, 07 December 2015, 16:07:08
Post by: njbair on Mon, 07 December 2015, 16:19:40
Being a jerk on the Internet is not motivating anyone to send you anything no matter what you payed.I'm kind of motivated to send him a poo in a box.
Post by: GSimon on Mon, 07 December 2015, 16:23:02
Being a jerk on the Internet is not motivating anyone to send you anything no matter what you payed.
I think taking $10,000 of other people's money in the name of charity and bailing is a jerk move, more so than words on a message board, but that's just my insane reality.
You also presume that I'm looking to motivate him to fulfill his commitment? I gave up on motivating a while ago, we've all tried tip-toeing around mkawa's feelings, how's that been going? At least now that he's shown he's unwilling and probably unable to see this GB through I can at least state what is happening and speak for those who won't stick their neck out about the situation.
Post by: mashby on Mon, 07 December 2015, 16:45:47
I think taking $10,000 of other people's money in the name of charity and bailing is a jerk move, more so than words on a message board, but that's just my insane reality.
In a vacuum, I would agree that it's a jerk move, but knowing the background behind the GB and the family and health issues that mkawa is going through puts things (at least for me) in a different light.
Is the buy in shambles? No question. Do we need to act like jerks and berate him all under the guise of being "direct"? I don't think so, but clearly you do.
I'm not telling you how to act and I don't wish to derail the thread any more than I have debating the subject with you. To each his own.
Post by: daddytime on Fri, 11 December 2015, 17:26:45
Post by: Tindron on Mon, 21 December 2015, 16:22:41
Cool story, bro.
Hi jdcarpe,
Do you know anything about the status of the pcbs?
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 21 December 2015, 16:25:17
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 21 December 2015, 16:26:30
I guess no one wants to ask, but I'll bite. The boards are supposed to ship this year, but with ten days between now and 2016, and a month and a half since the most recent update, can we get a more recent status?
I think it's safe to say this definitely isn't happening this year if at all.
At this point I'll believe it when I see it.
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 17:31:55
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 21 December 2015, 17:37:40
Post by: kravlin on Mon, 21 December 2015, 17:42:50
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 21 December 2015, 17:44:53
I don't know what's going on with mkawa, as I haven't heard from him in quite a while now. If he would ship out what he has, I can probably raise the funds to get people their PCBs. I would need to know who ordered what, but I'm willing to help in any way I can. I have access to both the old and new revisions of the PCB, whichever people would prefer.And since I've offered to pay again for my shipping to get my stuff from mkawa multiple times over the last few months, I get the impression he has no interest in fulfilling orders.
And he's shipped other things out to people so I don't want to hear people making excuses.
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:20:29
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:21:18
Apparently I'm not allowed to post on thisI've noticed your post getting deleted without any sort of explanation..It is a bit concerning..ponzi schemegroup buy thread because I have a dissenting opinion.
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:23:06
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:23:22
Apparently I'm not allowed to post on thisI've noticed your post getting deleted without any sort of explanation..It is a bit concerning..ponzi schemegroup buy thread because I have a dissenting opinion.
Yeah... I guess that's how they roll around here. I was ****ing around making quasi-snide comments simply to underpin how people are still considering this board a reality, but apparently it's not ok.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:23:43
It would be concerning if it was mkawa deleting them, but last I checked he doesn't have that power.He's still got plenty of friends who do.
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:23:48
Apparently I'm not allowed to post on thisI've noticed your post getting deleted without any sort of explanation..It is a bit concerning..ponzi schemegroup buy thread because I have a dissenting opinion.
Yeah... I guess that's how they roll around here. I was messing around making quasi-snide comments simply to underpin how people are still considering this board a reality, but apparently it's not ok.
In all seriousness, short of a coma, there's NO reason that OP can't post once per week even if to simply say "sorry. no updates, guys."
Post by: byker on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:31:11
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:32:12
Post by: byker on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:34:15
Thanks for the transparent explanation. It can be pretty disconcerting when a post calling a group buy a scam is removed.
Fair enough, thanks for your input. I will try to improve the communication system for the future. :)
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:35:10
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:35:49
Personally I think mkawa's vendor status should be called into question.
I would be blown away if anyone even remotely considered giving money to mkawa again outside of charity.
Post by: byker on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:37:00
Personally I think mkawa's vendor status should be called into question.
Good point, I will follow this up with the other moderators.
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:41:27
Personally I think mkawa's vendor status should be called into question.
I would be blown away if anyone even remotely considered giving money to mkawa again outside of charity.
I agree.
I hate to say it but this seems like an exit scam..
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:42:33
Apparently I'm not allowed to post on thisI've noticed your post getting deleted without any sort of explanation..It is a bit concerning..ponzi schemegroup buy thread because I have a dissenting opinion.
Yeah... I guess that's how they roll around here. I was ****ing around making quasi-snide comments simply to underpin how people are still considering this board a reality, but apparently it's not ok.
If your posts contributed anything to the discussion they wouldn't have been deleted. But when your posts amount to nothing more than "LOL, suckers" and you're not even in the group buy, why on Earth would we keep that?
A "dissenting opinion" is very much not the reason they were removed...
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:43:09
If your posts contributed anything to the discussion they wouldn't have been deleted. But when your posts amount to nothing more than "LOL, suckers" and you're not even in the group buy, why on Earth would we keep that?
A "dissenting opinion" is very much not the reason they were removed...
Bro... we've moved on.
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:45:13
If your posts contributed anything to the discussion they wouldn't have been deleted. But when your posts amount to nothing more than "LOL, suckers" and you're not even in the group buy, why on Earth would we keep that?
A "dissenting opinion" is very much not the reason they were removed...
[/quote]
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Post by: nickheller on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:45:33
Personally I think mkawa's vendor status should be called into question.FWIW, I purchased a soldapullt from geekhackers on October 15th and it shipped fairly fast (within a week). Granted that is not related to this buy, but it is something that (afaik) mkawa ships out.
I would also be willing to contribute funds (if they are needed) to help this buy get wrapped up, assuming there was actually a plan in place, and not just "we're out of money".
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:48:49
If your posts contributed anything to the discussion they wouldn't have been deleted. But when your posts amount to nothing more than "LOL, suckers" and you're not even in the group buy, why on Earth would we keep that?
A "dissenting opinion" is very much not the reason they were removed...
Bro... we've moved on.
Finally.
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:50:00
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:52:04
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
Yes the fact this was all done in the name of smallfry is what pisses me off the most.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:52:56
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
And how exactly does your post help the situation?
Post by: byker on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:54:31
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
Saying things like
but thankful I can watch the fallout.
Was why your original posts were removed.
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:55:20
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:55:35
[/quote]
And how exactly does your post help the situation?
[/quote]
Possibly because it makes us think more critically, instead of blindly assuming our money will get us something?
Post by: njbair on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:56:11
IIRC your original post the other day was along the lines of "I'm glad I didn't join this buy but I'm enjoying watching the fallout." That's trolling. Just because the post was deleted doesn't mean you can revise the history here. You're here to troll.He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:56:36
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 18:57:45
If anything, I think it brings up the fact that none of us should give any more money to this GB without some sort of clear plan to finish this...
Nah man. There's no room for that kind of discussion. This is about what I said / meant now. It's not even about the board.
Post by: njbair on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:00:36
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:01:16
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
And how exactly does your post help the situation?
Possibly because it makes us think more critically, instead of blindly assuming our money will get us something?
And if he had formulated a thoughtful post, that might be the case.
Let me remind you the wonderful, thought-provoking content that was posted:
Once again... I'm so incredibly glad I didn't join this group buy, but thankful I can watch the fallout.
Show Image(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y333/doomcrusader_photos/op-will-surely-deliver-lets-just-wait.jpg)
If you seriously want the thread to be bumped with crap like this, geekhack might not be the place for you, and I will not apologize for the mod team removing thread-crapping from posts such as this.
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:01:34
I take issue with the notion that a troll post can lead to legitimate discussion. Nobody was even talking about giving more money toward this buy. The guy just showed up after a week of inactivity and posted a troll post.
Yo seriously... can we talk about the group buy?
Post by: njbair on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:06:02
Sure. What color plates did your order? Wait nm shut up and leave.I take issue with the notion that a troll post can lead to legitimate discussion. Nobody was even talking about giving more money toward this buy. The guy just showed up after a week of inactivity and posted a troll post.
Yo seriously... can we talk about the group buy?
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:06:23
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:07:12
Sure. What color plates did your order? Wait nm shut up and leave.I take issue with the notion that a troll post can lead to legitimate discussion. Nobody was even talking about giving more money toward this buy. The guy just showed up after a week of inactivity and posted a troll post.
Yo seriously... can we talk about the group buy?
LOL this is exactly what I'm talking about. You're clearly more interested in a personal argument than the actual GB, which I've tried to talk about numerous times.
But seriously. Is there any way to recoup what people spent on this buy? Can't a paypal claim have some effect?
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:12:17
Sure. What color plates did your order? Wait nm shut up and leave.I take issue with the notion that a troll post can lead to legitimate discussion. Nobody was even talking about giving more money toward this buy. The guy just showed up after a week of inactivity and posted a troll post.
Yo seriously... can we talk about the group buy?
LOL this is exactly what I'm talking about. You're clearly more interested in a personal argument than the actual GB, which I've tried to talk about numerous times.
But seriously. Is there any way to recoup what people spent on this buy? Can't a paypal claim have some effect?
Please, let's discuss the group buy.
Money was collected, some things were purchased/produced, and mkawa is now AWOL. Okay, now we're all caught up. Now what?
You want me to fly to his house and rough 'im up?
Or maybe you could just stop threadcrapping instead. If your goal is to warn others about the risks of group buys, there are about a thousand other things I can think of that would actually be useful.
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:14:07
Quote
simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community
Incredible.
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:34:16
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:40:52
PayPal dispute won't do anything. It is outside of the window that is clearly spelled out in their user agreement.
In the USA Citizenship TOS, I believe they call it fraud.
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:46:13
PayPal dispute won't do anything. It is outside of the window that is clearly spelled out in their user agreement.
In the USA Citizenship TOS, I believe they call it fraud.
That has nothing to do with PayPal. With the timeline of this group buy, PayPal will do nothing.
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:48:03
PayPal dispute won't do anything. It is outside of the window that is clearly spelled out in their user agreement.
In the USA Citizenship TOS, I believe they call it fraud.
That has nothing to do with PayPal. With the timeline of this group buy, PayPal will do nothing.
I think his point was more that it's actually illegal and mkawa could be taken to court. Which is kinda overboard honestly. I , for one, just want some answers.
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:48:59
PayPal dispute won't do anything. It is outside of the window that is clearly spelled out in their user agreement.
In the USA Citizenship TOS, I believe they call it fraud.
That has nothing to do with PayPal. With the timeline of this group buy, PayPal will do nothing.
I think his point was more that it's actually illegal and mkawa could be taken to court. Which is kinda overboard honestly. I , for one, just want some answers.
I'm by no means calling for something like that. I'm just trying to point out the severity of what the dude did.
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:49:47
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 21 December 2015, 19:54:15
According to his profile, he was last active a month after his last post in here..he could have atleast taken the time to say he was still around..
Obviously mkawa and I haven't gotten along for some time but to his credit he did post another update here saying he had things bagged up and would soon begin shipping and would verify everyone's address the day the rollback happened, so that post was deleted along with many others but it doesn't mean much unless people have gotten things and just didn't post about it.
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:16:56
This is a disgrace.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:19:18
I hate that what was supposed to be a nice homage to a deceased member of this community has turned into this **** show. If I ever get this board I will forever look at it in disgust(In before gladly giving up my money/any other kind of crap).
This is a disgrace.
Really? You can't look beyond the failures of this group buy and honor the member it was intended to? :confused:
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:24:13
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:26:34
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..
I'm sorry to hear that.
Post by: neverused on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:27:37
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..It's shallow
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:27:47
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:29:45
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..It's shallow
Is you're money tied up in this GB?
Post by: abjr on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:32:31
Obviously mkawa and I haven't gotten along for some time but to his credit he did post another update here saying he had things bagged up and would soon begin shipping and would verify everyone's address the day the rollback happened, so that post was deleted along with many others but it doesn't mean much unless people have gotten things and just didn't post about it.
Thanks for posting this. I wasn't aware mkawa had posted an update recently. I have reached out to him ( as I'm sure many others have) for an update.
Post by: neverused on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:34:42
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..It's shallow
Is you're money tied up in this GB?
Nope.
Still the process of obtaining an item and remembering the dead should be separable. It's not my fault that it came off as shallow, I just made the observation.
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:36:44
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:37:36
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..It's shallow
Is you're money tied up in this GB?
Nope.
Still the process of obtaining an item and remembering the dead should be separable. It's not my fault that it came off as shallow, I just made the observation.
Woah now. Let's not forget the witchhunt you get for stating unpopular opinions around here...
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:38:02
get. out.
wat
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:40:09
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:41:54
I'm just echoing the same narrative, he isn't a member of this gb, so he shouldn't be posting.
LOL 11/10
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:43:40
I'm just echoing the same narrative, he isn't a member of this gb, so he shouldn't be posting.
Cool, taking out your frustration on a member totally unrelated to the initial exchange. Mature.
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:47:21
I'm just echoing the same narrative, he isn't a member of this gb, so he shouldn't be posting.
Cool, taking out your frustration on a member totally unrelated to the initial exchange. Mature.
And you don't think you're being antagonistic?
Post by: keshley on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:48:29
Post by: neverused on Mon, 21 December 2015, 21:59:57
I'm just echoing the same narrative, he isn't a member of this gb, so he shouldn't be posting.I apologize if I touched a nerve there. I frequently check in on this thread and your comment just seemed shallow, so I said that. There is no comment on the GB itself, I have no doubt that things have been frustrating, I would be frustrated too.
May I ask, is this quote in fact true?
I guess it's the autism..
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 21 December 2015, 22:07:23
Post by: Wigflip on Mon, 21 December 2015, 22:28:22
I'm sorry if you found something I said to be shallow. I have good days and bad days. Yes, I am autistic. Which is partly why i'm so involved in this gb. My disability only pays so much and it took me a long time to save this money.
What a plot twist...
Post by: livingspeedbump on Mon, 21 December 2015, 23:44:32
Being a jerk on the Internet is not motivating anyone to send you anything no matter what you payed.I'm kind of motivated to send him a poo in a box.
Glitter is far better...er...worse :))
Post by: neverused on Mon, 21 December 2015, 23:46:34
I'm sorry if you found something I said to be shallow. I have good days and bad days. Yes, I am autistic. Which is partly why i'm so involved in this gb. My disability only pays so much and it took me a long time to save this money.That's makes more sense, I'd be frustrated too.
Post by: mashby on Tue, 22 December 2015, 08:59:07
@jdcarpe -- I'm happy to help in any way that I can as well. I'll PM you to discuss.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 27 December 2015, 16:32:40
that said, my uncle is still rapidly fading, is being monitored weekly and has been hospitalized with a life threatening multiple artery variceal burst since last i posted, and i continue to have GI issues (although i think i finally have a diagnosis, which is nice).
mashby, jd; here is the way i would like to arrange for help, since i want to catch up anyway. find a time after 1st week february to come out and visit me and the other boston geekhackers; i have enough space here to house everyone, kids, SOs etc. we can have a very informal boston keycon in which various things gitted r dunned. email me and if i don't respond, email me again until i do.
Post by: mkawa on Sun, 27 December 2015, 16:36:56
i'm not going to say thanks for your patience, because if you've been patient this long, you already know you're a saint. instead, thanks for not putting me under a guillotine and mounting my head on a pike at the city walls.
Post by: abjr on Sun, 27 December 2015, 17:28:10
Post by: stoic-lemon on Tue, 29 December 2015, 07:01:00
Post by: Yslen on Tue, 29 December 2015, 08:20:10
Post by: njbair on Tue, 29 December 2015, 13:38:16
Post by: fatchoi on Wed, 30 December 2015, 07:55:30
Post by: heedpantsnow on Wed, 30 December 2015, 09:34:19
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 06 January 2016, 13:42:28
EDIT: Pending to keshley.
Post by: keshley on Wed, 06 January 2016, 13:45:19
I'm in a tight spot right now so if anyone wants to take over my order I'll sell it at half price.
/raises hand
Post by: LeandreN on Wed, 06 January 2016, 13:45:50
I'm in a tight spot right now so if anyone wants to take over my order I'll sell it at half price.
Ill take it. How much and what did you order?
Post by: Skuloth on Wed, 06 January 2016, 13:49:16
Post by: kravlin on Wed, 27 January 2016, 10:45:25
Post by: Steezus on Wed, 27 January 2016, 11:42:04
Any chance we could get an update Mkawa? I know you're going through a lot of ****, but just checking in to make sure you're alive :P
Just a heads up, it's been a month to the day since his last post.
Post by: i3oilermaker on Wed, 27 January 2016, 11:45:08
Post by: kravlin on Wed, 27 January 2016, 14:01:09
I have been in discussions with mkawa regarding the PCBs -- its moving -- slow, but its moving...
Thanks I3oiler!
Post by: PandaSPUR on Fri, 05 February 2016, 14:31:04
I'll figure out the price if someones actually interested. I bought the kit with notched plates and etc.
Sorry for all your life troubles mkawa.
Post by: tahuds on Thu, 18 February 2016, 10:03:01
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 18 February 2016, 10:20:17
And it's over folks. No updates for something like a month, which isn't the first time, and this time it looks like we've just stopped giving a **** that mkawa grabbed our cash, ****ed us hard, and has fallen off the planet.Hmmm, then why am I organizing the purchase of new PCBs for this buy? Just because you don't see things happening, doesn't mean they aren't happening.
Thank you for your input.
Post by: knowsnokb on Fri, 19 February 2016, 10:53:29
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Post by: njbair on Fri, 19 February 2016, 10:55:03
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?No, Massdrop flaked out on that commitment shortly after it was first announced.
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Post by: Ceedog on Fri, 19 February 2016, 10:57:18
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?No, Massdrop flaked out on that commitment shortly after it was first announced.
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
More accurately, either Massdrop or mkawa flaked out. Both parties have blamed the other.
Post by: jdcarpe on Fri, 19 February 2016, 11:21:27
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Yes, that plan is no longer. Instead, I have a new JD40 PCB by Wilba, the same designer who made the JD45 PCB. These new PCBs will be used to fulfill the SmallFry orders, as well as being offered on several online retailers.
Post by: fatchoi on Tue, 23 February 2016, 09:00:12
Post by: tbc on Tue, 23 February 2016, 23:31:04
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Yes, that plan is no longer. Instead, I have a new JD40 PCB by Wilba, the same designer who made the JD45 PCB. These new PCBs will be used to fulfill the SmallFry orders, as well as being offered on several online retailers.
are there any plans for this GB to get priority? i imagine we've been waiting the longest?
Post by: kravlin on Wed, 24 February 2016, 10:31:25
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Yes, that plan is no longer. Instead, I have a new JD40 PCB by Wilba, the same designer who made the JD45 PCB. These new PCBs will be used to fulfill the SmallFry orders, as well as being offered on several online retailers.
are there any plans for this GB to get priority? i imagine we've been waiting the longest?
I would expect all of the original batch to be bought at once. Larger numbers == reduced prices and all that.
Post by: lekashman on Thu, 25 February 2016, 00:01:56
All Massdrop was going to do was place a bulk order for parts with money collected in the initial order, not conduct a bailout of a group buy.
As soon as it became apparent that there was no money leftover, there was nothing for Massdrop to do, and no responsibility was ever taken on.
jdcarpe then requested that no further action be taken by myself or Massdrop and that was the end of it.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Sat, 27 February 2016, 17:13:40
Here's whats in my smallfry order:
- Smallfry Kit - $160 (w/ 1 extra PCB since I bought the "Learn to solder" kit
- Smallfry Notched Plate Upgrade - $55
- Teensy Controller (from mkawa, to be shipped with smallfry) - $19
- Total: $234
I want $190 for the smallfry kit (~20% off what I paid)
I also have a set of MX Cherry Clear switches with green stickers and clear tops if you want that. Those I have in my possession and could ship out immediately if you buy my smallfry kit. I can get pricing for this after I figure out how much shipping costs, but probably $30-40 shipped.
If for some reason the kit ends up getting shipped to me even after I transfer ownership, or if mkawa cant transfer for me, I promise to ship it out to the buyer at my own expense.
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 21 March 2016, 14:13:58
Post by: njbair on Mon, 21 March 2016, 14:36:04
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 11 April 2016, 09:10:51
https://twitter.com/WAssembly/status/719514211546697728?s=09
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 11 April 2016, 10:26:24
Short video of the PCBs being assembled today. These should ship to me next Monday, and I will get them to mkawa post haste.
https://twitter.com/WAssembly/status/719514211546697728?s=09
Any idea what mkawa's timeline looks like once these get to him?
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 11 April 2016, 15:20:21
Short video of the PCBs being assembled today. These should ship to me next Monday, and I will get them to mkawa post haste.
https://twitter.com/WAssembly/status/719514211546697728?s=09
Any idea what mkawa's timeline looks like once these get to him?
Nope, I have no idea. All I know is my part is on schedule. :D
Post by: EvoPlatypus on Thu, 21 April 2016, 10:06:18
How does one, who is interested in the new JD40, come about procuring one?
Edit: Spelling is my second language
Post by: i3oilermaker on Thu, 21 April 2016, 14:40:03
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 23 April 2016, 22:09:04
Really hope mkawa coild update us a bit.
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Post by: Skuloth on Sat, 23 April 2016, 22:13:59
Good to see the PCB progressing. But how about the plates?
Really hope mkawa coild update us a bit.
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Pretty sure plates have been done for a while.
Post by: tahuds on Wed, 04 May 2016, 23:49:59
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 05 May 2016, 09:02:52
Good to see the PCB progressing. But how about the plates?
Really hope mkawa coild update us a bit.
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Pretty sure plates have been done for a while.
Hm... But my plates should be notched plate (not sure if it has ever been done or will be done)...
and the painting of plates... sigh, not a single news from mkawa.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Fri, 06 May 2016, 14:51:56
Smallfry Kit - $160
Smallfry Notched Plate Upgrade - $55
Teensy Controller (from mkawa, to be shipped with smallfry) - $19
Total: $234
Asking for $150 OBO.
Post by: abjr on Mon, 09 May 2016, 21:43:15
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 10 May 2016, 08:13:00
I had an email exchange with mkawa and was told that the plates are all accounted for and that he reached out to jdcarpe to give him updated shipping information for the PCBs. I guess jd can confirm once they are in transit.
I have the PCBs in hand, huzzah! I will get them shipped to mkawa this week. :)
Post by: tahuds on Tue, 24 May 2016, 15:09:52
I had an email exchange with mkawa and was told that the plates are all accounted for and that he reached out to jdcarpe to give him updated shipping information for the PCBs. I guess jd can confirm once they are in transit.
I have the PCBs in hand, huzzah! I will get them shipped to mkawa this week. :)
Any news?
Post by: dgneo on Tue, 07 June 2016, 11:04:13
I had an email exchange with mkawa and was told that the plates are all accounted for and that he reached out to jdcarpe to give him updated shipping information for the PCBs. I guess jd can confirm once they are in transit.
I have the PCBs in hand, huzzah! I will get them shipped to mkawa this week. :)
What's the word, bird?
Post by: Lurch on Tue, 07 June 2016, 11:10:23
Post by: daddytime on Mon, 20 June 2016, 18:06:56
Post by: HannahPeach on Tue, 21 June 2016, 00:39:48
SO where do we read up on this pcb? Is the SMD work done already? I can't see since the picture is too small.
What about LED support?
edit: actually you can see quite a lot in the picture.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Tue, 21 June 2016, 06:25:28
http://techkeys.us/products/jd40You should post in techkeys subforum. :thumb:
SO where do we read up on this pcb? Is the SMD work done already? I can't see since the picture is too small.
What about LED support?
edit: actually you can see quite a lot in the picture.
Post by: tahuds on Thu, 23 June 2016, 05:28:37
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 23 June 2016, 06:54:38
mkawa hasn't been on in weeks, and JD for a while as well. Anyone know how to reach them IRL? This is getting a little ridiculous.Mkawa is the only person responsible for this group buy, jdcarpe simply forwarded on some PCBs to him.
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 09 July 2016, 09:52:41
Post by: orevilo on Fri, 15 July 2016, 11:17:30
Quote
Yah, I'm alive and have all the individual kit parts now. I'm extremely low on time and the original plan was to have a packing party with myself, photoelectric and dorkvader but it hasn't come together.
I've been working weekends for basically the last two years, but... well, **** that. I'm starting to block out time for geekhack (i have continually been wholesaling krytox this entire time and servicing the soldering end of the store in like the hour of time I can carve out each week)
Anyway, that's the current state of things. I have like 50lb bricks of gaskets, PCBs and titanium plates that need tons of manual labor to pack up and then a ton of email correspondence to make sure everyone gets stuff to their current address or if they sold their kit off etc etc.
I am starting to carve out more and more time for getting things out the door of my apartment including this. Unfortunately I seem to have become sprit with the exception of being fluent in English.hence, if you can help people temper their expectations to sprit timeframes,i can push this stuff out of my life properly with people getting something that is basically what they wants.
Blerg,
Mkawa
Post by: abjr on Fri, 15 July 2016, 11:41:46
Post by: tahuds on Sat, 16 July 2016, 02:20:52
I sent an email through geekhackers.com asking for any information regarding the group buy noting that mkawa hasnt been active in a month and this is what I got as a response.QuoteYah, I'm alive and have all the individual kit parts now. I'm extremely low on time and the original plan was to have a packing party with myself, photoelectric and dorkvader but it hasn't come together.
I've been working weekends for basically the last two years, but... well, **** that. I'm starting to block out time for geekhack (i have continually been wholesaling krytox this entire time and servicing the soldering end of the store in like the hour of time I can carve out each week)
Anyway, that's the current state of things. I have like 50lb bricks of gaskets, PCBs and titanium plates that need tons of manual labor to pack up and then a ton of email correspondence to make sure everyone gets stuff to their current address or if they sold their kit off etc etc.
I am starting to carve out more and more time for getting things out the door of my apartment including this. Unfortunately I seem to have become sprit with the exception of being fluent in English.hence, if you can help people temper their expectations to sprit timeframes,i can push this stuff out of my life properly with people getting something that is basically what they wants.
Blerg,
Mkawa
I don't understand what that even means. sprit?
Post by: Ceedog on Sat, 16 July 2016, 02:43:50
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 16 July 2016, 21:46:22
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Post by: r3nfr0 on Sun, 17 July 2016, 12:40:13
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: orevilo on Sun, 17 July 2016, 15:10:15
Quote
hey duder,
can you ask around the thread and see if there are any well respected, older geekhackers who are willing to and have time to be hubs for distribution? for example, if i can do 10 shipments, one to CA, one to WA, one to IL, one to NY, etc. etc. with bulk kit components, then each hub leader (hopefully during some kind of hub party with pizza -- happy to pay for pizza) can bundle, confirm ship and ship.
as an example of how little time i have, i'm working today (right now, because sigh), and the only thing i've managed to do with the gigantic 2k$ box/brick full of PCBs was finally fit into a bookshelf so i don't keep tripping over it.
I could be a "hub" for Florida, but I don't think I have enough reputation on GeekHack for that to be possible. Anyone else interested?
Post by: kravlin on Mon, 18 July 2016, 10:13:05
Another Email from mkawaQuotehey duder,
can you ask around the thread and see if there are any well respected, older geekhackers who are willing to and have time to be hubs for distribution? for example, if i can do 10 shipments, one to CA, one to WA, one to IL, one to NY, etc. etc. with bulk kit components, then each hub leader (hopefully during some kind of hub party with pizza -- happy to pay for pizza) can bundle, confirm ship and ship.
as an example of how little time i have, i'm working today (right now, because sigh), and the only thing i've managed to do with the gigantic 2k$ box/brick full of PCBs was finally fit into a bookshelf so i don't keep tripping over it.
I could be a "hub" for Florida, but I don't think I have enough reputation on GeekHack for that to be possible. Anyone else interested?
I don't know that I have the rep either, but I'd be a "hub" for colorado/midwest area and just knock this out one night at my local hackerspace.
Post by: tbc on Mon, 18 July 2016, 23:31:27
Geekhack group buy leader with notoriously long lead times. Springs from him take several months to arrive. He is nonetheless trusted, hence why mkawa wants the same treatment.
...how long have I been gone that sprit is now a good GB leader.. :eek:
EDIT:
more accurately...how long have you guys gotten used to waiting?
Post by: Ceedog on Mon, 18 July 2016, 23:32:36
Geekhack group buy leader with notoriously long lead times. Springs from him take several months to arrive. He is nonetheless trusted, hence why mkawa wants the same treatment.
...how long have I been gone that sprit is now a good GB leader.. :eek:
EDIT:
more accurately...how long have you guys gotten used to waiting?
I never said he was a *good* GB leader...
Post by: nubbinator on Mon, 18 July 2016, 23:36:32
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 19 July 2016, 08:15:20
Geekhack group buy leader with notoriously long lead times. Springs from him take several months to arrive. He is nonetheless trusted, hence why mkawa wants the same treatment.
...how long have I been gone that sprit is now a good GB leader.. :eek:
EDIT:
more accurately...how long have you guys gotten used to waiting?
No one's saying he's good, he just *does* deliver - eventually...
Post by: tahuds on Tue, 19 July 2016, 20:15:31
How big is the buy (how many people participated)? Is the kit only the PCB, gasket, screws, and plates? Depending on the size and what's present, I can probably take on the shipping.
If I remember it was like 100? people or so, but sending mkawa an email might be the best bet. EDIT: According to the sale page on geek hackers.org it was 74 orders.
Post by: nubbinator on Tue, 19 July 2016, 20:30:19
How big is the buy (how many people participated)? Is the kit only the PCB, gasket, screws, and plates? Depending on the size and what's present, I can probably take on the shipping.
If I remember it was like 100? people or so, but sending mkawa an email might be the best bet. EDIT: According to the sale page on geek hackers.org it was 74 orders.
I should be able to handle it if it's 74 and just PCB, plates, gasket, and screws.
Post by: Spopepro on Wed, 20 July 2016, 00:59:55
How big is the buy (how many people participated)? Is the kit only the PCB, gasket, screws, and plates? Depending on the size and what's present, I can probably take on the shipping.
If I remember it was like 100? people or so, but sending mkawa an email might be the best bet. EDIT: According to the sale page on geek hackers.org it was 74 orders.
I should be able to handle it if it's 74 and just PCB, plates, gasket, and screws.
But the plates aren't all identical. I think there will be a non trivial amount of spreadsheet work needed to make sure the right color goes to the right person, that it's still the right person, and the address is current.
However, if you're the trusted party, and if the dates work out that I could do it, I'd drive down to help make it happen to wrap it up. I think everyone involved, both in production and purchasing, had the most honorable intentions for this project, and I'd like to see it wrap up with everyone satisfied.
Post by: nubbinator on Wed, 20 July 2016, 01:22:10
Post by: Skuloth on Wed, 20 July 2016, 07:53:24
If there's a printout that I can toss the plates on to confirm layout, it won't be a problem to ID the plates and get them sorted appropriately.
Pretty sure the only difference between the plates is color.
Post by: nubbinator on Wed, 20 July 2016, 08:49:29
Post by: DaveB on Fri, 29 July 2016, 10:57:19
Post by: Lurch on Sat, 30 July 2016, 12:35:35
let me know when you can.
cheers. :thumb:
Post by: nubbinator on Sat, 30 July 2016, 13:19:11
Post by: Lurch on Thu, 04 August 2016, 11:58:55
Post by: nubbinator on Fri, 05 August 2016, 22:45:49
Post by: orevilo on Tue, 16 August 2016, 10:39:06
Quote
he backed out.
Another Email from mkawa
Post by: taylordcraig on Tue, 23 August 2016, 18:00:08
Quotehe backed out.
Another Email from mkawa
?? Elaborate.
Post by: orevilo on Tue, 23 August 2016, 18:14:46
Quotehe backed out.
Another Email from mkawa
?? Elaborate.
That's it, that's all the email said. I assume it's in reference to nubinator. He said that he would take over the group buy but I guess he decided it was too much for him or something.
Post by: nubbinator on Tue, 23 August 2016, 19:55:52
Quotehe backed out.
Another Email from mkawa
?? Elaborate.
I delayed response because I've been swamped at work and trying to figure out how to respond to the e-mail since it seems like there's more to it than stated. I have emailed him about it again though since I've finally had a little time to decompress from some very long and stressful work weeks. In the e-mail it sounded like there was no one unified source for information of who gets what (there's "dumps of spreadsheets" from shopify and Google docs) and that not everyone would get everything they wanted. I don't know if that latter is the design, colors, parts, or what.
If it's going to be confirming orders, picking parts, shipping, and deflecting criticism back to the GB runner, I can do that and that's what I emailed him. If it's new parts need to be made or just shipping what's there (even if it doesn't match their order) and telling people to deal with it, I'm passing.
Post by: Badwrench on Tue, 23 August 2016, 22:29:35
If you do take it on, I am down to help out.Quotehe backed out.
Another Email from mkawa
?? Elaborate.
I delayed response because I've been swamped at work and trying to figure out how to respond to the e-mail since it seems like there's more to it than stated. I have emailed him about it again though since I've finally had a little time to decompress from some very long and stressful work weeks. In the e-mail it sounded like there was no one unified source for information of who gets what (there's "dumps of spreadsheets" from shopify and Google docs) and that not everyone would get everything they wanted. I don't know if that latter is the design, colors, parts, or what.
If it's going to be confirming orders, picking parts, shipping, and deflecting criticism back to the GB runner, I can do that and that's what I emailed him. If it's new parts need to be made or just shipping what's there (even if it doesn't match their order) and telling people to deal with it, I'm passing.
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Post by: kravlin on Thu, 25 August 2016, 14:41:17
I'm nearing the end of con season, meaning my free time is coming back.
Post by: kravlin on Tue, 20 September 2016, 15:36:42
Post by: slickmamba on Tue, 20 September 2016, 15:46:04
Post by: tahuds on Wed, 21 September 2016, 23:49:41
Post by: slickmamba on Thu, 22 September 2016, 00:00:57
Guys mkawa hasn't been active on the site since June 9th... it's almost October. Real life probably got in the way, he realized he can't ship anything because of budget and/or time, and is just trying to forget the group buy and community exists. That's what I think anyway.mkawa is a little more trustable than you think. He just needs some help. He is swamped doing brainy things out East
Post by: Spopepro on Thu, 22 September 2016, 01:23:21
Guys mkawa hasn't been active on the site since June 9th... it's almost October. Real life probably got in the way, he realized he can't ship anything because of budget and/or time, and is just trying to forget the group buy and community exists. That's what I think anyway.mkawa is a little more trustable than you think. He just needs some help. He is swamped doing brainy things out East
I think the truth is now somewhere in between. Yes, mkawa is swamped with work, health, and family issues. But also it's beginning to emerge that there are some seriously broken parts of this GB. Component parts aren't organized, stuff may, or may not be missing. It's certainly the case that colors that people requested are somewhere between pretty close and nothing at all like what you thought you asked for. Very few people will end up getting exactly what they ordered.
Granted, this is hearsay pieced together from bits of conversations, but while there's been legitimate reasons posted for delays, it might be telling that they weren't accompanied by status updates. I think that's because there isn't a clear path to make this GB right anymore. People who offered to proxy ship were instead told they needed to handle some tough customer service type communication with participants, and that's after sorting out the documentation.
All that said, I'm not angry (as a participant). I understand fully how big plans from talented young people can get out of control quickly. It doesn't take much to set things into a tail spin and it hurts to try and face the issues. If you think it's easy and the solution is to just "man up" then I would posit you haven't ever been in a position of responsibility for something that goes very wrong in a very public fashion.
I might or might not ever see something from this GB. It is very likely that if I do it won't be exactly what I ordered. My first wish is for Ming to be healthy and have success in future endeavors. If he's able to start tackling this again, he should know that there are many here willing to help provided things can be put in a way where we can help.
Post by: PandaSPUR on Mon, 26 September 2016, 13:02:54
Still would rather sell my spot in the groupbuy but I'm uncomfortable taking anyone's money while this is still a mess.
Post by: bboyer on Mon, 26 September 2016, 17:17:57
Post by: daddytime on Wed, 05 October 2016, 06:41:24
Post by: tahuds on Thu, 27 October 2016, 16:10:56
Post by: nubbinator on Thu, 27 October 2016, 16:25:14
Edit: Emailed him again for an update.
Post by: fatchoi on Sat, 05 November 2016, 08:24:48
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Post by: nubbinator on Sat, 05 November 2016, 15:09:16
Post by: Lurch on Tue, 15 November 2016, 11:31:18
paging mkawa.......
paging ivan-*AHEM* i mean mkawa
:blank: :blank: :blank: :blank:
Post by: abjr on Sat, 19 November 2016, 21:22:31
Post by: nubbinator on Sat, 03 December 2016, 00:55:49
Unfortunately, there's no date for the handoff yet.
Post by: tahuds on Sat, 03 December 2016, 09:24:22
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 04 December 2016, 10:11:04
Thanks nubbinator
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Post by: Lurch on Tue, 06 December 2016, 05:21:23
Post by: vivalarevolución on Wed, 07 December 2016, 20:26:41
Ok, finally heard back from mkawa from my last email. I should, hopefully be getting everything sent to me. It's going to suck and will likely take longer than I want to deal with, but this should finally be getting some movement once I get the stuff from him.
Unfortunately, there's no date for the handoff yet.
Two-words, one is hypenated: cross-country roadtrip (if my knowledge of everyone's geographic location is accurate).
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 27 December 2016, 07:33:51
Ok, finally heard back from mkawa from my last email. I should, hopefully be getting everything sent to me. It's going to suck and will likely take longer than I want to deal with, but this should finally be getting some movement once I get the stuff from him.
Unfortunately, there's no date for the handoff yet.
Thank you for this. I know what all is involved in this sort of thing, and it's not at all easy. You will be overwhelmed, but take it one step and a time and we'll get there. :-*
Post by: nubbinator on Wed, 28 December 2016, 22:39:44
Ok, finally heard back from mkawa from my last email. I should, hopefully be getting everything sent to me. It's going to suck and will likely take longer than I want to deal with, but this should finally be getting some movement once I get the stuff from him.
Unfortunately, there's no date for the handoff yet.
Thank you for this. I know what all is involved in this sort of thing, and it's not at all easy. You will be overwhelmed, but take it one step and a time and we'll get there. :-*
It shouldn't be too bad, but he still is quiet.
Post by: r3nfr0 on Fri, 30 December 2016, 10:32:27
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Post by: chronos on Fri, 06 January 2017, 02:15:52
I'm not in a position to get involved with the physical shipping of the keyboards, but it's clear that people's addresses have changed and there may no longer be a clear record of who got what.
Given that the original order was for 11k, I estimate that there were something like 60 buyers. With 10 'logistics' volunteers that makes 6 to a person - get in touch with them, figure out what they expect to get, confirm the latest shipping addresses, and act as point for people helping with shipment. Sorting through the paperwork, handling communication and figuring out what needs to happen logistically could certainly contribute to the delay so alleviating just that piece seems worthwhile.
I am more than happy to sort through whatever records exist and get that information ready for anyone else who wants to help.
It sounds like original buyers may not get what they expected. Clearly its time to ship whatever is ready and call it a day. With a general sense of what is missing from the current inventory "breaking the bad news" can happen and we can all move forward to wrap this up.
Finally, with the various problems with the project along the way there may no longer be any funds remaining for the actual shipping. I can only speak for myself here, but I'd be more than happy to kick in for priority shipping for my keyboard (I'm in the US) - just bubble wrap it, toss whatever is ready from my order (plates, board, or whatever) in the premade box, and ship. Hopefully most participants are in the US and this is a valid option for many of us. I realize this is a big ask for everyone but at least for those reading, consider the possibility that you have may to spend a bit more, and may get less - its better than nothing.
Thanks to others who have posted here.
For mkawa, I know you'll be happier than all of us combined to get this wrapped up. Being able to ask for help is a skill so work on it now: get on your email, get back to people promptly. If some more funds for shipping and so on are needed just be direct about it. Projects don't go perfectly, thats no reason to give up. Hope we can all make something happen soon.
Post by: fatchoi on Fri, 06 January 2017, 05:22:42
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Post by: chronos on Fri, 06 January 2017, 14:05:10
I went over the last 4 or 5 pages of posts on this group buy. There have been plenty of offers to help from various people - add me to the list.
Mkawa, responding to emails and accepting the offers for help will help put this behind you and is very important. Don't leave people who have offered to help waiting for a month without an email reply - just reply.
Everyone who participated, sounds like at the very least there are: plates and populated PCBs. As others have said, there may be pieces missing, but going from there to a working keyboard will be under your control once you have what's there.
Post by: tahuds on Sun, 05 February 2017, 00:56:45
Post by: johnconner on Sat, 25 February 2017, 16:05:07
Getting over with this thing would be the best option for everyone. Send whats done and I'll be more than happy to pay for shipping (even if it's just the plate or something).
What now would be importent is to give everyone some clear infos (how many parts are there, who has them, is there still money left for shipping, and so on).
After that we could all let it rest in peace.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Sat, 25 February 2017, 16:24:18
I'm also one of the original partisipants (I bought it over the old [CTRL]ALT store) and I think chronos is right.I think you're confused this group buy wasn't through [CTRL]ALT
Getting over with this thing would be the best option for everyone. Send whats done and I'll be more than happy to pay for shipping (even if it's just the plate or something).
What now would be importent is to give everyone some clear infos (how many parts are there, who has them, is there still money left for shipping, and so on).
After that we could all let it rest in peace.
Post by: johnconner on Sat, 25 February 2017, 17:00:50
Post by: kravlin on Mon, 27 February 2017, 14:52:56
Ok that's strage. I bought the JD-40 kit over[CTRL]ALT in january 2015. when nothing happened I got in contact with them and they told me that there were some personal problems with the guy that builds them but that someone had orderd replacement parts to help get the keyboards out. This exchange was nearly a year ago, so everything lined up with the events of the groupbuy here so I thought that CTRL[ALT] was just an other option to participate.
JD-40 != SF-40 afaik. Sorry dude :(
Though i think they're using JD40 boards for these now.
Post by: BunnyLake on Mon, 27 February 2017, 16:32:07
Ok that's strage. I bought the JD-40 kit over[CTRL]ALT in january 2015. when nothing happened I got in contact with them and they told me that there were some personal problems with the guy that builds them but that someone had orderd replacement parts to help get the keyboards out. This exchange was nearly a year ago, so everything lined up with the events of the groupbuy here so I thought that CTRL[ALT] was just an other option to participate.
hey good sir, shoot me a pm with your order details and ill get you sorted out
Post by: Ceedog on Fri, 03 March 2017, 20:24:24
Post by: chronos on Sat, 04 March 2017, 01:47:35
I've acclimated to the geologic timescales of this project and totally understand, but like I said to everyone, I'm ready to get in and help with logistics.
There is something tangible somewhere, probably in Ming Kawa's house (please if anyone can, confirm that this is mkawa's full name) that needs to be spread out to whoever bought in on this group buy.
Getting there isn't as hard as curing cancer but I get that there is a human involved here who has a lot of stuff on their plate.
I'm not a social networking person but if someone can confirm that Ming Kawa (or whatever they are named) is still alive, and knows what academic institution they are affiliated with please feel free to forward that information along. I see that there is a person at risk in this situation and just want to help. If you know social media accounts associated with this person I'd be happy to take a look and make sure they're still ok, just send those too.
Post by: meiosis on Mon, 27 March 2017, 22:22:24
Post by: tahuds on Wed, 29 March 2017, 15:31:09
y0 - I got nothing. No messages in my inbox since my posts a few months ago and just the replies you see.
I've acclimated to the geologic timescales of this project and totally understand, but like I said to everyone, I'm ready to get in and help with logistics.
There is something tangible somewhere, probably in Ming Kawa's house (please if anyone can, confirm that this is mkawa's full name) that needs to be spread out to whoever bought in on this group buy.
Getting there isn't as hard as curing cancer but I get that there is a human involved here who has a lot of stuff on their plate.
I'm not a social networking person but if someone can confirm that Ming Kawa (or whatever they are named) is still alive, and knows what academic institution they are affiliated with please feel free to forward that information along. I see that there is a person at risk in this situation and just want to help. If you know social media accounts associated with this person I'd be happy to take a look and make sure they're still ok, just send those too.
He just got up and left and through the no witch hunting role or shaming he's able to get away with it. Running a group buy for over 1 year is already questionable yet so many people get away with it, after three years one really needs to question more.
There isn't even any mechanism for dealing w/ this **** other than "caveat emptor" but come on, this is the person who ran the geekhack store, how the **** doesn't at least ONE admin on this site know his contact info, and get involved to the extent of at least getting the plates from mkawa to whomever wants to finish distribution?
Post by: tahuds on Wed, 29 March 2017, 16:04:41
Post by: fatchoi on Wed, 05 April 2017, 19:01:08
Could anyone please contact him if you have his personal details?
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 10 April 2017, 13:18:51
I talked to mkawa :) He, as it turns out, still lives in my area. I'm going to see about helping with shipping domestic orders. He said that Zeal and TechKeys should also be helping with international orders.
Hopefully this will get moving to completion soon. I believe shipping cost will need to be covered better. Will know more details soon.
Post by: MaNiFeX on Mon, 10 April 2017, 17:02:46
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 10 April 2017, 17:03:29
If there are any still available for purchase, I'm interested. Glad to see this back on its feet.
I'll have to check with mkawa if there are any upaid-for but produced kits. The priority right now is to ship out all the paid-for orders.
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 10 April 2017, 17:15:32
If there are any still available for purchase, I'm interested. Glad to see this back on its feet.
Id be willing to sell you mine.
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 10 April 2017, 17:18:59
Post by: fatchoi on Wed, 12 April 2017, 10:50:41
Hey guys,
I talked to mkawa :) He, as it turns out, still lives in my area. I'm going to see about helping with shipping domestic orders. He said that Zeal and TechKeys should also be helping with international orders.
Hopefully this will get moving to completion soon. I believe shipping cost will need to be covered better. Will know more details soon.
Thanks man! I'm with an international order and will wait for the shipping details, before deciding whether I should transfer the order later on... I don't quite want to spend additional $ yet...
Post by: tahuds on Thu, 13 April 2017, 05:25:22
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 13 April 2017, 12:34:09
Post by: bboyer on Thu, 13 April 2017, 13:01:27
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 13 April 2017, 13:14:06
Post by: Skuloth on Thu, 13 April 2017, 13:43:56
Awesome, if this goes through would it be Ok to contact you about updating our shipping address?
I'm sure a fairly large portion of the participants have had address changes.
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 13 April 2017, 13:46:41
Awesome, if this goes through would it be Ok to contact you about updating our shipping address?
I'm sure a fairly large portion of the participants have had address changes.
Don't worry, people will be e-mailed first for address update before shipping takes place.
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:19:11
I had the chance to look at all the GB parts yesterday. Just about everything is ready to be sorted and packaged for shipping, though we're still working out the method of connecting the top and bottom plates together (can't bolt-through, because there's a thick sorbothane gasket between the titanium plates, and its purpose is to dampen the typing impact--having solid through bolts would defeat that purpose). The colored titanium plates are actually coated with Cerakote on the outside.
Photos of parts (click MORE for a lot of them):
(http://i.imgur.com/UGS7CgH.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/WkozWBr.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/9GOU0VE.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Phj3tW0.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7bhjtEd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rKXu8mY.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/FozRvFD.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/BZVM6sF.jpg)
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:33:58
Hello everyone,
I had the chance to look at all the GB parts yesterday. Just about everything is ready to be sorted and packaged for shipping, though we're still working out the method of connecting the top and bottom plates together (can't bolt-through, because there's a thick sorbothane gasket between the titanium plates, and its purpose is to dampen the typing impact--having solid through bolts would defeat that purpose). The colored titanium plates are actually coated with Cerakote on the outside.
Photos of parts (click MORE for a lot of them):MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/UGS7CgH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WkozWBr.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9GOU0VE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Phj3tW0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7bhjtEd.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rKXu8mY.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FozRvFD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BZVM6sF.jpg)
iirc he was talking about using those orings on the outside of the case to pull the top and bottom plate together around the gasket.
Post by: Zeal on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:34:25
Though I was under the impression that as long as the sorbothane is applying a bit of pressure onto the two plates (when bolted), there would still be a dampening effect? Sure a bit of vibration would transfer through the bolts and into the bottom plate, but wouldn't the bottom half of the sorbothane absorb that vibration too?
Or maybe just use 3M permanent adhesive such as 200MP? Would be a semi permanent option...if you don't plan on swapping / modding switches.
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:37:08
Zeal: this is a *very* small case with pretty thick titanium plates on the top and bottom, so having 6 through bolts would definitely eliminate absorption reduction pretty effectively.
Post by: BunnyLake on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:38:57
Nice, thanks for the pictures, Photoelectric!
Though I was under the impression that as long as the sorbothane is applying a bit of pressure onto the two plates (when bolted), there would still be a dampening effect? Sure a bit of vibration would transfer through the bolts and into the bottom plate, but wouldn't the bottom half of the sorbothane absorb that vibration too?
i have one of these cases already with the above mentioned gasket , and personally i find it considerably better when using hard through bolts versus a semi floating system, which is interesting, but incredibly annoying to actually live with for myself, some people im sure would love it, but it just has way to much give in it for me
i do like the gasket, but id highly recommend it with full through bolts
Post by: BunnyLake on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:40:39
Hello everyone,
I had the chance to look at all the GB parts yesterday. Just about everything is ready to be sorted and packaged for shipping, though we're still working out the method of connecting the top and bottom plates together (can't bolt-through, because there's a thick sorbothane gasket between the titanium plates, and its purpose is to dampen the typing impact--having solid through bolts would defeat that purpose). The colored titanium plates are actually coated with Cerakote on the outside.
Photos of parts (click MORE for a lot of them):MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/UGS7CgH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WkozWBr.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9GOU0VE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Phj3tW0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7bhjtEd.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rKXu8mY.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FozRvFD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BZVM6sF.jpg)
iirc he was talking about using those orings on the outside of the case to pull the top and bottom plate together around the gasket.
i have those and have extensively tested them, again all comes down to preference, but definitely not the way to go IMO
Post by: Skuloth on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:42:27
Nice, thanks for the pictures, Photoelectric!
Though I was under the impression that as long as the sorbothane is applying a bit of pressure onto the two plates (when bolted), there would still be a dampening effect? Sure a bit of vibration would transfer through the bolts and into the bottom plate, but wouldn't the bottom half of the sorbothane absorb that vibration too?
i have one of these cases already with the above mentioned gasket , and personally i find it considerably better when using hard through bolts versus a semi floating system, which is interesting, but incredibly annoying to actually live with for myself, some people im sure would love it, but it just has way to much give in it for me
i do like the gasket, but id highly recommend it with full through bolts
What type of bolts are you using?
Post by: BunnyLake on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:46:20
It takes very little pressure to have this much play between the case
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:47:48
Post by: BunnyLake on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:50:15
Those are old o-rings. We're going with smaller diameter tighter kind that won't stretch this much.
ive tried plenty of orings, those are the original ones for the board, but whilst tighter orings do change the feel, ultimately its a feeling i didnt like, as rather than absorbtion, what i felt was a more floating jelly type experience
as above, im not saying its in anyway bad, im subjectively saying i didnt like that, but i did find a benefit in the gasket when using full through bolts, it gave the entire keyboard a more solid, grounded feeling and that happens to be what i personally go for
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 01 May 2017, 15:59:59
Post by: fatchoi on Tue, 02 May 2017, 10:52:56
Post by: William_S_Jones on Tue, 02 May 2017, 11:21:42
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 02 May 2017, 12:31:57
Good day, reading over the post, I'm interested. Once the paid orders are shipped, if you have any remaining green or light blue kits, I'd like one. Well, I'm looking forward to the extras news & hope everyone enjoys their JD40s when they receive them!
Unfortunately there are only a very small number of those green and blue parts, and they are for those who've entered the group buy already.
. . .
I have long bolts on the way to test out the bolt-through scenario.
Post by: William_S_Jones on Tue, 02 May 2017, 12:42:26
Alright, thanksGood day, reading over the post, I'm interested. Once the paid orders are shipped, if you have any remaining green or light blue kits, I'd like one. Well, I'm looking forward to the extras news & hope everyone enjoys their JD40s when they receive them!
Unfortunately there are only a very small number of those green and blue parts, and they are for those who've entered the group buy already.
. . .
I have long bolts on the way to test out the bolt-through scenario.
Post by: Vibex on Wed, 03 May 2017, 11:41:47
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 03 May 2017, 12:59:30
So when this GB started I was going to have thechemist build my board. But he hasn't been online in like 2 years. Who should I pm about changing my address, cause if he's not building it, no need to ship it to him.
Yeah, we're not going to ship to him. There were only a few kits that had assembly requested, and I'm not sure if any parts had been sent to thechemist or not. Current plan is to ship directly to customers. If there's a strong preference for building before shipping, I can put some kits together. We'll be e-mailing for current address confirmation to the e-mails indicated during ordering.
Post by: snoopy on Wed, 03 May 2017, 13:04:25
Post by: Lurch on Fri, 05 May 2017, 09:03:32
thanks for your help, photoE.
Post by: Vibex on Fri, 05 May 2017, 10:47:23
Yeah, we're not going to ship to him. There were only a few kits that had assembly requested, and I'm not sure if any parts had been sent to thechemist or not. Current plan is to ship directly to customers. If there's a strong preference for building before shipping, I can put some kits together. We'll be e-mailing for current address confirmation to the e-mails indicated during ordering.
I would definitely be interested in getting it built. I have horribly unsteady hands, and because of that have ****ed up everything I have tried to solder on my own.
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 05 May 2017, 10:51:53
Yeah, we're not going to ship to him. There were only a few kits that had assembly requested, and I'm not sure if any parts had been sent to thechemist or not. Current plan is to ship directly to customers. If there's a strong preference for building before shipping, I can put some kits together. We'll be e-mailing for current address confirmation to the e-mails indicated during ordering.
I would definitely be interested in getting it built. I have horribly unsteady hands, and because of that have ****ed up everything I have tried to solder on my own.
No problem! Also looks like you're local? Boston area. I need to look into what was arranged with TheChemist--whether you were to send switches to him or if he already has them, etc.
Post by: Vibex on Fri, 05 May 2017, 11:29:13
No problem! Also looks like you're local? Boston area. I need to look into what was arranged with TheChemist--whether you were to send switches to him or if he already has them, etc.Yeah, go to Northeastern University. Though I'm back home in NY for the summer. I'll check through my messages and see if I can figure it out. Was so long ago that I completely forget.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 09 May 2017, 21:19:01
Also, the plates look great. :)
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 09 May 2017, 21:27:35
- we've settled on the fastener method (through-hole 20mm long M2 bolts in black color, to match the black sorbothane gasket) + black M2 nuts.
- I ordered black 3M bumpon feet (2 small for the front and 2 large for the rear per kit) today. The bottom of the case does have holes for those conical aluminum feet you can buy from many sources, if you prefer to use those.
- Individual parts are pre-packaged with a bagging machine, PCBs are in anti-static custom-cut bags
- I'm going to be sending e-mails to people in batches to confirm shipping addresses, using a custom gmail address. If you see an e-mail from "SmallFryGBgeekhack", that's not spam, it's from me. Going by e-mail because while I've identified most people's usernames by their e-mails, over 50% of those who joined the GB have not been active on geekhack for a long time, some for years.
- ZealPC will be distributing Canadian orders, TechKeys will be distributing non-US or Canada orders.
- I will be getting shipping address updates for international orders first (so that we can organize and ship out the parts in bulk to Zeal and TechKeys first)
- mkawa/myself will be boxing and shipping US orders
- People who requested assembly from TheChemist will be getting assembly courtesy of myself. We may not have the switches you wanted on-hand, but I'll be contacting everyone who wanted assembly and discussing options individually. I'm currently already assembling 4 such kits, which will be shipped out within the next week.
- Since there are a hair over 50 US orders, it will take a while to package and ship them all, but bear with us.
- Finally the colors. I've done my best to assign the parts on hand to those who requested specific colors, and most people are getting what they ordered or close to that. There was no "medium blue" nor "dark blue" made, so those orders will be filled with brushed titanium. Light Blue, or Teal, or Aqua orders are getting the light aqua color I showed on photographs earlier (very nice color, it's a satin finish flat color that shows the brushed texture of underlying titanium well). All manners of bronze orders will be getting "bronze", which is a shimmery darker bronze color. All the colors are done with Cerakote on the outer-facing sides of the parts. Green orders will be getting green. THERE ARE NOT ENOUGH PURPLE PARTS, so I apologize in advance to the few people who ordered purple but will be getting titanium gray instead.
- Just opened up one of the sealed bags with a raw titanium part--looks like it's uncoated brushed finish titanium. Still has a bit of machining oil on it, so dab that off with a paper towel before assembly.
Post by: Greeeg on Tue, 09 May 2017, 21:55:34
Thank you for putting in time on this Photoelectric.
Post by: slickmamba on Tue, 09 May 2017, 22:57:49
Post by: panrc on Tue, 09 May 2017, 23:06:37
Happy to hear this is going ahead regardless. Thanks to everyone helping out. :thumb:
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 09 May 2017, 23:31:37
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 10 May 2017, 10:17:15
Post by: tahuds on Wed, 10 May 2017, 15:48:20
Post by: bboyer on Wed, 10 May 2017, 17:50:44
Where should I send my fan mail and tasteful nudes?
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 10 May 2017, 18:09:47
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 11 May 2017, 09:19:02
(http://i.imgur.com/tCMWIPt.jpg)
(Featuring a Bronze case top)
Post by: Vibex on Thu, 11 May 2017, 15:25:58
Where should I send my fan mail and tasteful nudes?Such tempting offers. :p
Large 3M bumpon feet are here, still waiting for the small ones to arrive (for the front of the case):OH MAN THE HYPE IS REAL! :eek: :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tCMWIPt.jpg)
(Featuring a Bronze case top)
Post by: tahuds on Thu, 11 May 2017, 20:25:43
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 11 May 2017, 20:33:07
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 12 May 2017, 12:00:23
I'm looking at good metric nut options in black color. At the moment, I'm mostly settled with self-locking black hex huts with nylon insert, but those are kind of a pain to screw on if you don't have a spanner or some tool to carefully screw those onto a bolt.
These are perfect, but only in a lot of 5000 pieces and from Alibaba... Maybe there's similar on TaoBao?
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-manufacturer-best-price-black-head_60150868854.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.CYCMJR
(https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1nwiHKpXXXXbVXVXXq6xXFXXXX/China-manufacturer-best-price-black-head-knurled.jpg) (https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1xI19KpXXXXbuXXXXq6xXFXXXd/China-manufacturer-best-price-black-head-knurled.jpg)
(Need size M2, black, knurled thumb nuts, about 420 pieces for the group buy)
I've contacted the Alibaba vendor in the meantime.
. . .
This is what the keyboard looks like fully assembled (though the nuts have not been tightened yet, so there's some gap still between the sandwich parts, and the nuts stick out too far still) with m2 socket head nuts on the bottom and m2 locking nuts on the top:
(http://i.imgur.com/sOLPjpQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/APqmoGi.jpg)
And also both sizes of the bumpon feet have arrived, and I positioned the rear ones to cover up holes made for screw-in aluminum feet:
(http://i.imgur.com/ndekm6Y.jpg)
Post by: xondat on Fri, 12 May 2017, 12:13:04
Does anyone have a TaoBao connection or similar?
I'm looking at good metric nut options in black color. At the moment, I'm mostly settled with self-locking black hex huts with nylon insert, but those are kind of a pain to screw on if you don't have a spanner or some tool to carefully screw those onto a bolt.
These are perfect, but only in a lot of 5000 pieces and from Alibaba... Maybe there's similar on TaoBao?
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-manufacturer-best-price-black-head_60150868854.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.CYCMJRShow Image(https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1nwiHKpXXXXbVXVXXq6xXFXXXX/China-manufacturer-best-price-black-head-knurled.jpg)Show Image(https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1xI19KpXXXXbuXXXXq6xXFXXXd/China-manufacturer-best-price-black-head-knurled.jpg)
(Need size M2, black, knurled thumb nuts, about 420 pieces for the group buy)
I've contacted the Alibaba vendor in the meantime.
My source of screws and whatever have these: M2 High Thumb Nuts (DIN 466) - Black A2 Stainless Steel (https://www.accu.co.uk/en/high-thumb-nuts/172699-HKTN-M2-A2-BL). Not sure if that's what you need but worth the try :)
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 12 May 2017, 12:37:36
Post by: fatchoi on Fri, 12 May 2017, 21:06:54
https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=532791645925
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Post by: tahuds on Fri, 12 May 2017, 21:25:40
Those are pretty cool but perhaps too large, and also quite expensive! I mean people can order whatever they want for themselves later, including fancy anodized aluminum washers in rainbow colors, but I'm looking to get about 420 nuts to ship with the kits, and there's no group buy money to cover it. (Those bumpons were paid for with my own bank account).
What about these?
http://store.rc4wd.com/Nylock-Nuts-M2-Black_p_3062.html https://www.amazon.com/Knurled-Flat-Thumb-Thin-Black/dp/B01N34KKDB
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 12 May 2017, 21:51:23
Those are pretty cool but perhaps too large, and also quite expensive! I mean people can order whatever they want for themselves later, including fancy anodized aluminum washers in rainbow colors, but I'm looking to get about 420 nuts to ship with the kits, and there's no group buy money to cover it. (Those bumpons were paid for with my own bank account).
What about these?
http://store.rc4wd.com/Nylock-Nuts-M2-Black_p_3062.html https://www.amazon.com/Knurled-Flat-Thumb-Thin-Black/dp/B01N34KKDB
Those are the regular lock nuts, I can get these easily from many sources and what I have at the moment (see photos on the previous page). They are not easy to screw on without a socket wrench type thing, because of the nylon insert (by design). They work fine, I'm just exploring other options before fully committing.
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 12 May 2017, 21:52:16
How about these ones?
https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=532791645925
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
That link is wrong, I think.
Post by: tahuds on Fri, 12 May 2017, 22:00:31
Post by: fatchoi on Fri, 12 May 2017, 22:01:38
I couldnt find the specific one you showed in Taobao.How about these ones?
https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=532791645925
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
That link is wrong, I think.
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 12 May 2017, 22:02:26
I couldnt find the specific one you showed in Taobao.How about these ones?
https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=532791645925
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
That link is wrong, I think.
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
I meant that your link leads to a page that says "The current page is empty, click on the top of the toolbar in the "online source code editor" can be modified and submitted page code."
Post by: tahuds on Fri, 12 May 2017, 22:05:22
Post by: fatchoi on Fri, 12 May 2017, 22:08:26
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 12 May 2017, 22:12:59
So basically there are many cool looking options one can do for their own kit individually. For example:
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9qcAAOSwu1VW8QJ~/s-l500.jpg)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M2-M2-5-Colorful-Aluminum-Cup-Head-Screw-Bolt-Cone-Meson-Washers-Gaskets-/252348124336
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/CBoAAOSw0UdXttM~/s-l1600.jpg)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Colorful-M2-M3-Anodizing-Alloy-Aluminum-Lock-Hex-Flange-Nuts-Nut-/131918945095
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YH0AAOSw4CFY1H0V/s-l1600.jpg)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M2-M2-5-M3-M4-Brass-Thumb-Nut-Knurled-Thumb-Nuts-Pack-10-/182500926814
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20PCS-M2-M2-5-M3-M4-M5-M6-Stainless-Steel-Knurled-round-blind-end-hand-thumb/32797460830.html
You are all welcome to buy your own stuff. My goal is to find a good but economic solution to buy 460 nuts and 460 bolts. Those prices add up! (Especially when there's no group buy funds to use.) But for just one kit, any one of those options is quite cheap.
. . .
I'm waiting to hear back from the Alibaba vendor. If they say no, I'm probably going to go with M2-18mm partially threaded bolts + regular hex nuts for ease of use. Then anyone who wants something fancy yet still cheap can search for things like I listed above.
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 15 May 2017, 14:29:00
So current plan is to go with 18mm partially-threaded M2 black socket head bolts + standard black hex nuts (which, combined, will still be close to $150 shipped for all, but not AS expensive). If anyone wants more interesting alternatives for individual kits, please refer to examples in my post above.
. . .
Bad news: I've discovered that the plate cut-outs don't support Costar stabilizers. The correct stabilizers to use with these top plates are Cherry type in 6.25x length, PCB-mounted ONLY. Unfortunately group buy participants will have to source those on their own, along with switches and LEDs. Use only genuine Cherry stabilizers in 6.25 length. We're looking into source options now.
I'm getting those bolts and nuts today, and when they arrive, we can finally begin shipping. I have little 2x3" 4mil ziploc bags on the way to sort fasteners and bottom feet for each order.
edit: bolts and nuts ordered. Delivery by June 2nd (they have to be manufactured to spec). Partially-threaded black stainless steel M2 socket head bolts of 18mm length + black stainless steel M2 nuts.
Things you will get:
- the top and botom plate
- JD40 II PCB (which already includes the controller, so teensy is not needed, all SMD parts presoldered)
- sorbothane gasket
- 6 nuts and 6 bolts
Things you will need to source yourself:
- switches
- LEDs (optional)
- 1 6.25x Cherry stabilizer for the spacebar
- mini USB cable
Bad news #2: we can't cover shipping costs, so if participants wouldn't mind, we can quote shipping costs on individual basis.
. . .
I have photos of 2 kits I've finished for other people so far here (using the wrong Costar stabilizer inserts, which don't really fit properly :( They are pending to be swapped to plate-mounted Cherry stabilizers.)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/photoelectric_effect/albums/72157680672040444
Post by: Vibex on Mon, 15 May 2017, 14:32:02
Post by: abjr on Mon, 15 May 2017, 21:08:17
Bad news: I've discovered that the plate cut-outs don't support Costar stabilizers. The correct stabilizers to use with these top plates are Cherry type in 6.25x length, either plate- or PCB-mounted. Unfortunately group buy participants will have to source those on their own, along with switches and LEDs. Use only genuine Cherry stabilizers in 6.25 length. We're looking into source options now.
...snip...
I have photos of 2 kits I've finished for other people so far here (using the wrong Costar stabilizer inserts, which don't really fit properly :( They are pending to be swapped to plate-mounted Cherry stabilizers.)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/photoelectric_effect/albums/72157680672040444
Please tell me this is a cruel joke. I donated the money so that each kit could come with a full stabilizer set and only now, almost 3 years later, is it revealed that the wrong parts were purchased? I believe Ming got them from Weyman @ WASD.
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 15 May 2017, 21:21:29
Post by: PandaSPUR on Wed, 17 May 2017, 11:44:59
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 17 May 2017, 14:28:33
Haven't had any email about this yet, but theres a member who is interested in buying my order. Will transfer of ownership be possible?
Got your PM and spoke with the person interested in taking it over. Continuing via PMs.
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 17 May 2017, 17:24:48
I'll start verifying USA shipping addresses soon.
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 18 May 2017, 13:59:10
Also, PCB-mounted Cherry stabilizers WILL be provided with every kit.
Post by: bboyer on Thu, 18 May 2017, 18:05:08
Post by: fatchoi on Thu, 18 May 2017, 18:54:27
Sent from my VIE-L29 using Tapatalk
Post by: Lurch on Fri, 19 May 2017, 08:34:08
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 19 May 2017, 09:24:22
At the moment I'm still trying to get ahold of all the international orders (6 people yet to reply, and one person I'm having difficulty contacting because their e-mail no longer works, nor can I find them on GH).
Post by: Vibex on Wed, 24 May 2017, 15:56:25
I've been talking with Photoelectric for a little bit about testing out one of the boards, and it finally came. Here is the board in all its glory (and potato quality).
(https://i.imgur.com/cdP47Th.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bu4amor.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rSuJiKN.jpg)
More Photos!!
More
And here it is with my OG JD40.
(https://i.imgur.com/U93iBc3.jpg)
And some glamor shots with Granite caps on it.
(https://i.imgur.com/k9rzj38.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uZkcu5s.jpg)
And some with the case popped open. Though to be honest I would not recommend popping it open very often. You can leave the bolts loose enough to reach the programing switch without taking the case off, and that is way easier. If you pop the whole thing open, it takes quite a while to get all the bolts tightened perfectly so that the sorbothane sits right.
(https://i.imgur.com/YxgeTia.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eLGIgnu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bqtG8N1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/U93iBc3.jpg)
And some glamor shots with Granite caps on it.
(https://i.imgur.com/k9rzj38.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uZkcu5s.jpg)
And some with the case popped open. Though to be honest I would not recommend popping it open very often. You can leave the bolts loose enough to reach the programing switch without taking the case off, and that is way easier. If you pop the whole thing open, it takes quite a while to get all the bolts tightened perfectly so that the sorbothane sits right.
(https://i.imgur.com/YxgeTia.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eLGIgnu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bqtG8N1.jpg)
I'm really loving the board so far. Its a bit tricky to take apart, but when its all put together, it is a dream to type on. The sorbothane does a really good job of absorbing the impact from key presses. The stock bolts that come with the case are a bit on the meh side, but they serve there purpose, and are easy to replace.
The finish of the metal is fantastic, and looks beautiful especially with my granite caps. While I was sad the the medium blue andonization got cancelled, this is still a great finish.
The board is also really easy to program (I used easyAVR), though you do need to remember to install the atmega32u4 drivers (which took me way to long to realize I hadn't done).
If you have any questions about the board feel free to ask, I'm sure there are tons of things I have forgotten to mention.
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 24 May 2017, 16:08:49
Post by: chronos on Wed, 07 June 2017, 00:55:07
I'm fine with sourcing whatever parts I need - and as I said earlier, also good with paying shipping and any other expenses to reimburse folks who chipped in to get this group buy to completion.
I didn't look at previous messages too closely but I don't even remember what address I used in my order so assuming they will be confirmed before shipping when that happens - no rush.
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 07 June 2017, 19:01:49
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 14 June 2017, 13:11:41
Post by: cultofjosh on Sun, 02 July 2017, 15:41:18
I guess mkawa isn't around any more? Guess I should read through the thread and catch up.
Post by: Photoelectric on Sun, 02 July 2017, 16:15:15
Post by: tahuds on Sun, 16 July 2017, 21:00:55
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 19 July 2017, 00:29:44
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 21 July 2017, 20:14:06
Everything else has been individually sorted into ziplock bags and such, and boxes have been purchased from U-Line (along with some foam sheets), so I'm basically ready to start shipping USA orders. International orders will be bulk-shipped to ZealPC and TechKeys.us for distribution.
Waiting on the word about the bolts + waiting to hear back from mkawa on when we can meet up to do the bulk shipments and for me to grab the remaining parts (he has all the actual case parts, I have the feet, the stabilizers, and the fasteners).
I'll take some photographs for assembly instructions also.
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 24 July 2017, 10:50:52
Post by: slickmamba on Wed, 26 July 2017, 15:02:08
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 26 July 2017, 21:10:41
Post by: r3nfr0 on Fri, 04 August 2017, 08:53:12
I just purchased some panda switches for this project. Should be cool.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Photoelectric on Sat, 12 August 2017, 09:55:54
I received all the available plates and sorbothane gaskets from mkawa, so they are in boxes at my place now.
The place that sold the bolts decided to be bad and sent fully-threaded bolts twice, then defended themselves and insisted that the fact that both picture and item description stating partially-threaded was not significant. Anyway, it is what it is, and I've now sorted and packaged all the nuts and bolts on hand for all the outstanding orders.
First I'm going to assemble one more kit for a Canadian order and create an assembly guide/PDF. Then I'll forward all of the Canadian orders to ZealPC who is very kindly going to take care of shipping Canadian orders. This I plan to do by next Friday I hope. Then I also need to package and send all the remaining international orders to TechKeys.us. There are a couple of people I've still not been able to reach despite repeated attempts to e-mail them and PM them on the site, and I'll keep their orders with me until I hear back from them.
Financing shipping: unfortunately there are no funds available for shipping international kits :( If any of the international buyers wouldn't mind financing shipping of their kit, it'd be very helpful.
Immediately after I send out the bulk shipments to Zeal and TechKeys, I'll start sending out USA orders myself.
Post by: abjr on Sun, 13 August 2017, 09:16:48
Post by: Photoelectric on Sun, 13 August 2017, 10:15:31
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 15 August 2017, 20:16:07
*Please read this even if you know how to assemble keyboards, there are some tricky parts**
These are the parts you will receive with each kit (also a Sorbothane gasket, which I forgot to include in the photograph...)
(http://i.imgur.com/6zEH7zq.jpg)
- Top switch plate (titanium, cerakoted or clear matte-coated)
- Bottom plate (titanium, cerakoted or clear matte-coated)
- Sorbothane gasket
- 6 M2 nuts and 6 M2 x 18mm Cap Head Screws to hold the case together
- JD40 Mark II PCB
- 2 large 3M bumpon feet and 2 small 3M bumpon feet
- Cherry 6.25x spacebar stabilizer set
Note that the Sorbothane gasket is flexible and great for adding weight and dampening to the case, but it CAN split if you are not careful with it!!
Clear-coated titanium plates have some krytox grease on them. You should wipe it off carefully. Plates with Cerakote colors are clean. Please note that only one side of each plate is finished/coated. Inspect each plate carefully to see which side should be the outer side.
What you will need:
- Switches / LEDs
- a thick needle or something similar
- A Torx T6 screwdriver.
- optional 4mm socket wrench
To begin with, please inspect the PCB. It is a JD40 Mark II PCB, fully programmable and supporting LEDs.
Programming guide is located here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=83626.0
This is the default keymap:
More
(http://i.imgur.com/FRBLYL8.png)
Note the little white-gray circular button on the underside, between "W" and "E" switches. This is the button you will need to press to get your keyboard into bootloader mode to flash new firmware!
. . .
ASSEMBLY:
1. Assemble the Cherry spacebar stabilizers and insert them upside down, as follows:
(http://i.imgur.com/QBFSlV5.jpg)
** - Note that the plate cut-outs are very tight, and depending on tolerance variation in different plates, it might be quite difficult to push the stabilizers through the plate. If this is the case, inspect the outer black stabilizer stems on the left and right sides and find that there are 2 "bumps" on either side. Use a file to polish those off gently. Also you may wish to round the corners very slightly. After that, the stabilizer columns should fit through the plates with some gentle pressure. I recommend clipping the Cherry stabilizers for better feel (there are youtube videos on how to do this).
2. After placing the switch plate over the spacebar stabilizers, add a few switches. Put on a 6.25x spacebar and try it out! This will save you a headache if you realize you assembled the stabilizers incorrectly. Make sure the spacebar feels good to press down.
(http://i.imgur.com/0pMuFNp.jpg)
3. Insert the rest of the switches, minding that both pins should go through the PCB, and solder them on. Don't add or solder LEDs yet--test that all your switches are working first. Use a program like AquaKeyTest to check that all the switches are working (remember that there are 2 Fn keys, which won't light up on AquaKeyTest unless you use them in combination with another key).
4. Program your keyboard! This is much easier done now before you finish assembling the case.
5. Begin assembling the case by aligning the black Sorbothane gasket with top and bottom plates. Start with the top left corner like this:
(http://i.imgur.com/b6l71hQ.jpg)
**Use a thick needle or something similar to create the initial hole where bolts will go. Can use a dense object to help you push the needle through (I used my Torx screwdriver):
(http://i.imgur.com/pakMCmC.jpg)
Pull the needle all the way through with your fingers or pliers.
Next, use your Torx T6 screwdriver to literally screw the first bolt into the sorbothane gasket. Apply gentle pressure and keep the gasket aligned, flush with the top and bottom plates.
DO NOT PUSH THE BOLT THROUGH or you risk ripping the gasket.
(http://i.imgur.com/vPlpVdS.jpg)
The bolts are the exact length needed to go through the case and be fixed with a nut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! The Sorbothane gasket should not bulge outward. This is good:
(http://i.imgur.com/OKp77SB.jpg)
6. Do the same for the next 5 bolts, going counter-clockwise from top left, aligning the gasket as you go. You might find a 4mm socket wrench attachment useful to screw on the nuts. I got mine for about $3 at a local hardware store:
(http://i.imgur.com/x2VYMdI.jpg)
Add the stick-on rubber feet. Note the location of screw-in foot holes in the bottom plate--I prefer to cover them up with the large stick-on feet:
(http://i.imgur.com/ndekm6Y.jpg)
(This picture above shows old bolts, not the same as what you will receive).
7. If you want to reprogram your keyboard, you do not need to disassemble it. Simply loosen the bolt (with screwdriver) in the rear middle and *GENTLY* pull the sorbothane gasket away from the case to reveal the bootloader button, which is between the 3rd and 4th switches:
(http://i.imgur.com/aWTUe8W.jpg)
Post by: daddytime on Thu, 17 August 2017, 04:24:49
Im in usa, do I need to pay for my shipping?
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 17 August 2017, 10:42:11
Post by: Zeal on Fri, 18 August 2017, 16:13:33
Edit: Done, all shipped.
Post by: Photoelectric on Sat, 19 August 2017, 10:10:31
Got the Canadian packages from Photoelectric today. I should be able to get out all the Canadian orders by this afternoon, before cutoff. Expect a tracking number in your inbox shortly!
Edit: Done, all shipped.
❤
Post by: Photoelectric on Sat, 19 August 2017, 13:11:44
I've decided that I'll be doing international shipping as well (other than for the Canadian orders, which have already been taken care of). I hoped that TechKeys would have more resources for international shipping, but it appears to not be the case.
If anyone would be so kind as to donate some funds to help with shipping costs, it would be most welcome.
Post by: fatchoi on Sun, 20 August 2017, 08:10:48
Hi everyone,Hi, I could pay my own shipping. Please contact me via email for details. Thank you so much for all these efforts.
I've decided that I'll be doing international shipping as well (other than for the Canadian orders, which have already been taken care of). I hoped that TechKeys would have more resources for international shipping, but it appears to not be the case.
If anyone would be so kind as to donate some funds to help with shipping costs, it would be most welcome.
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Post by: skcheng on Tue, 22 August 2017, 00:26:56
Thanks to Zeal for quickly handling the Canadian orders!! And thanks to our UK connection for helping out with the fasteners!!
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Edit: Forgot that PhotoE has also been assembling kits for those who were promised assembly from a long MIA GH member!!
Post by: fatchoi on Tue, 22 August 2017, 11:33:17
Hi everyone,
I've decided that I'll be doing international shipping as well (other than for the Canadian orders, which have already been taken care of). I hoped that TechKeys would have more resources for international shipping, but it appears to not be the case.
If anyone would be so kind as to donate some funds to help with shipping costs, it would be most welcome.
Hi Photoelectric
Thanks for the PM and I've sent you the shipping fee via PayPal. Kindly check.
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 22 August 2017, 16:01:57
Post by: r3nfr0 on Wed, 23 August 2017, 04:21:31
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 23 August 2017, 12:19:59
If you see an e-mail from Stamps.com with a shipping notification, it's most likely your SmallFry kit tracking info. I've now added a more descriptive message to the stamps.com notification e-mail, as the default one is not descriptive at all.
. . .
If you are still waiting for your kit and reading the thread, please PM me with your address update, if you haven't done so already and if I haven't reached out to you yet myself. Thanks!
Post by: njbair on Thu, 24 August 2017, 20:27:35
(http://i.imgur.com/n3loTBX.jpg)
I've already started assembling it earlier this afternoon but I'll have to put off finishing it until later. Also, it never occurred to me that the PCB had LED points, so I'm going to order some LEDs from Amazon before I close it all up.
One modification I've already made, and I'll post pics later, is I drilled a hole through the bottom plate where the Reset button is. I reprogram my keyboards all the time (it's almost more of a hobby than the keyboards themselves these days) so easy access to the reset button is critical for me.
Other than that, I've just got to say that I'm super excited to see this come through and I can't wait to see all the builds.
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 24 August 2017, 21:16:58
One modification I've already made, and I'll post pics later, is I drilled a hole through the bottom plate where the Reset button is. I reprogram my keyboards all the time (it's almost more of a hobby than the keyboards themselves these days) so easy access to the reset button is critical for me.
Thanks for the update! Great idea about the hole for the bootloader button. Was it difficult to drill through the titanium or messy? Granted, your kit was clear-coated titanium, so perhaps it wouldn't be as invasive as with colored plates.
Post by: njbair on Fri, 25 August 2017, 00:13:40
One modification I've already made, and I'll post pics later, is I drilled a hole through the bottom plate where the Reset button is. I reprogram my keyboards all the time (it's almost more of a hobby than the keyboards themselves these days) so easy access to the reset button is critical for me.
Thanks for the update! Great idea about the hole for the bootloader button. Was it difficult to drill through the titanium or messy? Granted, your kit was clear-coated titanium, so perhaps it wouldn't be as invasive as with colored plates.
I have a drill press and lots of experience drilling sheet metal. The trick is, go slow and steady, short pecks with decent pressure and a nice, sharp drill bit. This will help break the chips to prevent long chips from forming which might catch onto the bit and spin around, scratching the finish.
If possible, put another piece of metal stock underneath the piece to prevent the stock mushrooming out at the bottom, but if not it's not hard to deburr with a Dremel, which I did anyway just to give the hole a nice chamfer.
Post by: daddytime on Fri, 25 August 2017, 08:41:33
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 25 August 2017, 10:16:03
Random example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8mm-Water-Clear-Diffused-Round-Top-Warm-White-Red-Blue-Light-LED-Diodes-/122100046749
Post by: njbair on Fri, 25 August 2017, 11:54:20
(http://i.imgur.com/zyLcmBw.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/cbmBsxA.jpg)
And here it is without caps. MX clears, stickered and lubed by TheChemist waaaaay back in the day:
(http://i.imgur.com/d8MOnpn.jpg)
Yesterday I mentioned one modification, the addition of a thru hole for accessing the reset button:
(http://i.imgur.com/vLlnuxA.jpg)
I also used a Dremel to remove the little workholding nubs on each plate:
(http://i.imgur.com/yjembvc.jpg)
I was able to do this because my plates weren't painted, YMMV.
To everyone who had a part in this buy--those who conceived it, promoted it, bought into it, ran with it, took it over, picked up the pieces, and saw it through to the end--all of you have my sincere thanks.
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 25 August 2017, 11:58:29
The hole is super well done. The gray titanium plates actually ARE painted, just in matte clear cerakote. I personally advocate leaving the waterjet sprues alone, because whether you have the little nub there or the polished surface after dremeling off the area will still be about equally noticeable. There's a difference in texture as well as reflectivity/color.
Post by: bboyer on Fri, 25 August 2017, 16:16:39
(http://i.imgur.com/JKkA5FB.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ixzmb2n.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/bpzS1ba.jpg)
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 25 August 2017, 22:33:54
...
We're at
There will be some delay as more sorbothane gaskets need to be ordered. I thought there were still more, but it turned out at the bottom of that box were some "missing" titanium plates instead. Will contact Sorbothane with part number as soon as they are open again and get more. Hoping their production period is quick.
Post by: tahuds on Sat, 26 August 2017, 21:09:08
Post by: Photoelectric on Sat, 26 August 2017, 21:15:07
Do we need pcb or plate mounted switches? It's been so long I don't even remember.
Does not matter in this case, both will work.
Post by: daddytime on Sun, 27 August 2017, 00:40:51
Post by: Photoelectric on Sun, 27 August 2017, 08:01:37
I understand where to solder the LEDs on the board but not sure where they go in relation to the switch/place
I don't exactly understand your question, sorry. The LEDs go into the switches with proper polarity: plus (long) leg into the circular + labeled hole on the PCB, minus (shorter) leg into the square - labeled hole on the PCB under each switch. Just like for most usual backlit Cherry type switch keyboards.
(http://d2fu7qgd3tdbcc.cloudfront.net/images/detailed/1/3mm-led-switch_ph6d-zd.jpg?t=1448959437)
(source: http://www.maxkeyboard.com/max-keyboard-blue-3mm-flangeless-replacement-led-for-backlit-mechanical-keyboard-110-pcs.html)
Post by: keshley on Mon, 28 August 2017, 13:06:43
I have no switches, and am actually packing up to move, so will be a bit before I build this little guy out. Happy everything worked out, thanks a lot to all who made it happen!
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 28 August 2017, 13:11:08
Mine arrived today, totally forgot about this until I heard from Photoelectric.
I have no switches, and am actually packing up to move, so will be a bit before I build this little guy out. Happy everything worked out, thanks a lot to all who made it happen!
This makes me glad. :thumb:
If you remember post pics when you get it built. :D
Post by: skcheng on Mon, 28 August 2017, 13:18:39
Here it is!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zyLcmBw.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cbmBsxA.jpg)
And here it is without caps. MX clears, stickered and lubed by TheChemist waaaaay back in the day:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d8MOnpn.jpg)
Yesterday I mentioned one modification, the addition of a thru hole for accessing the reset button:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vLlnuxA.jpg)
I also used a Dremel to remove the little workholding nubs on each plate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yjembvc.jpg)
I was able to do this because my plates weren't painted, YMMV.
To everyone who had a part in this buy--those who conceived it, promoted it, bought into it, ran with it, took it over, picked up the pieces, and saw it through to the end--all of you have my sincere thanks.
Looking GREAT!!!
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 28 August 2017, 17:34:05
Bottom line: rescuing this group buy is bloody expensive, getting close to two thousand dollars so far in shipping cost coverage and extra stuff that had to be purchased to complete the kits. Extra gaskets will be available for sale (those that are beside the one included with each kit) with a little bit of a premium to help recoup some of the costs.
Post by: daddytime on Tue, 05 September 2017, 05:37:47
Post by: r3nfr0 on Tue, 05 September 2017, 10:10:17
Could somone post a pic of how far down the front plate sit on the stabilizers? I had to file mine down but I'm not sure ive done enough as the switches barely seem to reac the board(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170905/f0fa3aecc5bbe8a65bf01959b76b9593.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 05 September 2017, 18:36:17
Could somone post a pic of how far down the front plate sit on the stabilizers? I had to file mine down but I'm not sure ive done enough as the switches barely seem to reac the board
You should be able to push the stabilizer stems as far as possible so as to have the bottoms of the switch housings just about touching the PCB. Unfortunately tolerances on these plates with respect to stabilizers are on the tight side, so some plates require more stabilizer filing than others :( If you have a good file, look at the sides of the stabilizer stem housings and file off any bits that stick out. Then also try rounding corners a bit.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 11 September 2017, 22:11:56
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 12 September 2017, 10:41:06
Very grateful I was able to get one of these after all but the stabilizer issues is killing me. I've tried for the last few nights to get these in and it isn't happening.
Have you filed the stabilizer stems that go into the plates?
Post by: SpAmRaY on Tue, 12 September 2017, 11:01:52
Very grateful I was able to get one of these after all but the stabilizer issues is killing me. I've tried for the last few nights to get these in and it isn't happening.
Have you filed the stabilizer stems that go into the plates?
I've tried filing but I need a better file or at least a smaller one, mine is huge, tried just brute force which basically resulted in the stabilizer housing being shaved on one side which gave me the idea of using a razor blade to try and slice off some material (which almost went from bad to worse), I just don't see how it'll fit. :-\
Obviously it is possible since others have had success, I'm just struggling for some reason but I've got plenty of extra stabilizers to destroy in this process. ???
I never did get a dremel maybe now is the time... :o
I feel like such a noob! :p
It's really too bad costar stabs won't fit, I don't like them but in this case I would make an exception. :D
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 12 September 2017, 11:19:33
Costar stabilizers don't fit at all, even after extensive filing. I mean the plastic bits fit, but they get deformed, and the stabilizer does not work properly.
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 14 September 2017, 13:15:02
If you mess up your gasket and want a replacement or an extra, please let me know. I have some extras on hand now (unfortunately at some cost).
Post by: Photoelectric on Fri, 15 September 2017, 12:46:33
If you haven't confirmed or updated your shipping address yet, please contact me via forum PM.
Any voluntary donations to help cover the high costs incurred so far would be very much appreciated, as no money from the original GB fund was made available to me to cover missing parts, shipping materials, or shipping cost.
Post by: Photoelectric on Sun, 15 October 2017, 21:31:11
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 23 October 2017, 16:19:24
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 25 October 2017, 23:09:22
EXTRA SORBOTHANE GASKETS are AVAILABLE. Please PM me if you need an extra one for whatever reason.
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 08 November 2017, 18:47:54
Post by: Grendel on Wed, 15 November 2017, 17:21:20
In case anyone wants to hook up an ISP -- there's an error in the silkscreen for the PB2 and PB3 pads (MOSI and MISO on the ISP connector), they are swapped.
Post by: Peglah on Wed, 22 November 2017, 11:24:50
(https://i.imgur.com/AHoP8Ux.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/XomokCc.jpg)
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 22 November 2017, 13:06:52
Post by: xondat on Wed, 22 November 2017, 13:55:21
Got the last keycaps today. Here is my finished board, thoughts?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AHoP8Ux.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/XomokCc.jpg)
Definitely unique. Do the caps feel odd to type on?
Post by: Peglah on Sun, 03 December 2017, 16:22:25
Super industrial. I hope you're using strong springs in those switches! Zinc caps are heavy.
Had to use what I had around. Zealio stems, Aristotles springs and Cherry housing.
(https://i.imgur.com/EmZgU1t.jpg)
Got the last keycaps today. Here is my finished board, thoughts?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AHoP8Ux.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/XomokCc.jpg)
Definitely unique. Do the caps feel odd to type on?
They do feel odd but not necessarily bad. Zinc caps are very hard to the feel. Really steardy.
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 08 January 2018, 17:21:23
I have extra JD40 II PCBs and extra Sorbothane gaskets if anyone is interested.
Post by: _haru on Wed, 17 January 2018, 08:06:40
Ok, we're at 92% of orders fulfilled at this point. I have 6 orders left to ship, but still can't get in touch with 5 out of 6 people (2 are completely MIA in Australia--even tried texting).
I have extra JD40 II PCBs and extra Sorbothane gaskets if anyone is interested.
If you still haven't been able to find those MIA Australians, I can probably find them in the AUMK facebook group or the Auskeys discord, if they're still active.
Post by: jdcarpe on Wed, 17 January 2018, 08:22:42
:eek: ;D :thumb:
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 17 January 2018, 10:09:38
Seeing this project fulfilled is giving me all the feels. Way to go, Photoelectric!
:eek: ;D :thumb:
Holy $*!t, JD, you're alive! Welcome back :)
I have 3 kits pending to ship, after which there will be 3 orders left to fulfill.
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 17 January 2018, 10:12:45
Ok, we're at 92% of orders fulfilled at this point. I have 6 orders left to ship, but still can't get in touch with 5 out of 6 people (2 are completely MIA in Australia--even tried texting).
I have extra JD40 II PCBs and extra Sorbothane gaskets if anyone is interested.
If you still haven't been able to find those MIA Australians, I can probably find them in the AUMK facebook group or the Auskeys discord, if they're still active.
One of them has just finally responded, but I might need to take you up on the offer to find the other!
Post by: jdcarpe on Wed, 17 January 2018, 11:10:54
Holy $*!t, JD, you're alive! Welcome back :)
Yes, holy $*it indeed. Thanks!!
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 23 January 2018, 12:02:17
If any of those who've received their kits feel like donating some PayPal cash to help cover the huge expenses that went into recovering this group buy, it'd be very much appreciated.
I still have extra Sorbothane gaskets as well as JD40 II PCBs, if anyone wants them.
Post by: chronos on Thu, 22 February 2018, 20:52:29
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 22 February 2018, 21:15:34
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 21 May 2018, 15:34:26
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 21 May 2018, 15:59:07
I tried shaving and rounding the stabilizer housing etc with no luck.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Post by: Tindron on Mon, 21 May 2018, 16:11:10
Post by: SpAmRaY on Mon, 21 May 2018, 16:40:49
The problem isn't the stabilizer housing, but rather that the bar hits the plate. The notches in the plate are on the wrong side of the holes for the way the stabilizer fits into the PCB. I ended up filing away part of the plate so my space bar wouldn't be permanently stuck in the down position.The black stabilizer housings won't fit in my plate notches, that I'm sure of. The wire might be a problem also but I haven't gotten that far.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v9U-Vb5uG4HIwDvYFs4xXAdUs2RRaiPIojh0mqRhoSdoYJFZwyP_17nHm5aNCIqTD2WG_TpH8BB4YqjSsHUoCQrU_KDkUMmJ-JwrCDOIvPV5DQq9aNCBQuB8DeFEyc5PNrhFhpwFv8enQdD7b65kqXxOeh4hQCI-Qux4gzo-yE_c-FUeT8W7A_D6zXqb4F0T04-dmHoVahOhK8mpbpY1iy-sUbJm9NXEXZNsIJzex2VF_kaQmdwq4zy8hQ6eSHxuGfOwpu7ufKbpOt9DiCznPmhucdDD0F_lNeBUgpGuHfGkRJ2bb5C3E5ZS7CIwJjpxa0ZHh9BDwd1C8zyHXdSJGODYBjpyeCHMTN4B823d6PiJHW_ZFr96g4KVL5AwCErRHyvv7UOnIGywt0tcPSltbZUGmVsHIkzSHRLjEsYRRjjoSfnBQCjgUUYC0C_6Y28dKCYcrOqHx3iYZig_-AhcTYI2yrP9o1k2Uh5ru0uThsEjcwco_l9UNoPxY4kRJPF8IDPsWl8UujZ7TX31tFxRFMUUj-8TYAxOOsMa7FW7_o4ytxeAX3M6KA0PxcqREfvr9qYMnqC08etEkhT-xUkIRwYACOfeRG9s=w1784-h1338-no)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yeu7D52-x-N7fHiveiTVuqrESE0zS_FXt_Rsh3Ma_tspMHvTG2wJKhehqycPmr3mQibshSRm5XUEjo69hS1i0LPkkueYd6tVymrhhGHoE_Jd3iVexaZReRBu_xpW_vXfJqGfXm7jzgcbMQ4Db4O04flKZl4I3UGj_NZ8d5Esayj7whYxpkLJ_PJPxYlih6s3cTdVNEJkQxMBWQ4lcD1Bf2hbziY46Wq1sKnzB4hQJthywZIys7DsuordJB2gXDUUSFERjXJ7WT-AQfbZBuKp9dMh7WJnwnBmZZHD4OcsDGD88qkaIaaID9n1GF5IJrtkDvv1oDh5ihCA_kL_CCLtslUp2MHdc2S3CGuvDDBOSACQGyXiysbCsiLY5gQJFRHcQxZ4x-Y3cDLx4kcmcbtLSnOaPPR6uoLQ1gyaifyPa00hsVpoo9K7JU1L4-tMOwMb6mOSgodeykjXLyKFAsI8278jyCok91Karg0-rjxSPub-k7JNiuC4VRa63W_hUH_6PcxcxjAr9NjcXK-kSuovxO28fBc3oB11Xoui-por7GutZMUW5eir2bFdOrcKixsHyhQq8dCoT9JpLhhbXMx7BmhGbupKJwkP=w1784-h1338-no)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O7iJq4weSMiGgxmF3wTFsCEQyj3kbaacu8fT8MJ0DIbzm3ZXnOnbCZ6pLxGyV2uDPUig3E9BXgV-Q2YNopnSR1YnPGGhFU0Ty4mk-L7zyYygERD7HHoldfbFAQAlU5cCHfD2l7G8fJ1hiCvlWXsSA3SWLurODkHNsWO6Ia_TivHOtyHlGmfoqNdzbSs5qW5BXEON5Cn5ANM_7BBUcyBqpmYnt-5NJNBob_Ap91rXhMmso2mAKsGFqVo8pCqFAVqObS5mzhdR10HfHqfbR2mu8qvg44ronIpFqUbVU-t_F8etCig8Winr8676SUzz51hdnSTapI7GUWxyLrR7DJmvlvIsI-5KxOW0YYwXbbgUymYKtY4xtOvXHKqLQZ96doTsMDBhuLAPCejN2E3jN8l_kOZndKlQrQdkVTK5uyN7vVqOxRU12Cm9dRTm_Zi2BHxOpbxBJoyvOfrXge8bpQs3Uf_4YOkJkjOT8MxitMiXav6dZcU19-KH-FiHdZFqIyZXEj_L0jKY6JoQw20vfO6NzXKXyacg47dlOTGgr8b3V7853GnIWE1g8Hmc-LxMsO7uMe-S1DrjSCtxa3_gKAH0Bf5x3bzaznlL=w1784-h1338-no)
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Post by: Tindron on Mon, 21 May 2018, 16:45:49
The black stabilizer housings won't fit in my plate notches, that I'm sure of. The wire might be a problem also but I haven't gotten that far.
I was able to get them inserted by starting at an angle and then rocking back and forth with my thumb. Some plastic got shaved off by the sharp edge of the plate but I didn't need to do any filing.
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 21 May 2018, 17:33:17
Ray, if you want to send me your kit, I can assemble it (or at least insert the spacebar stabilizers). The stabilizer "posts" do require a fair bit of filing to fit the plate. I will be away until June 20th, but you can send it to arrive by around that date, and I'll send the kit back soon after. Some of the plates have larger holes for stabilizers, others have smaller holes--I think there were different manufacturers or methods of polishing the edges used in the production.
Post by: Tindron on Mon, 21 May 2018, 18:32:21
Hmm, I've not had the bar hitting the plate problem so far when assembling these kits for others. Make sure the spacebar stabilizer orientation is such that the wire is over the switch (north), not closer to you (south). Usually if the stabilizer bar hits a plate, it means it was inserted in incorrect orientation.
Were you able to see the images I included in my post? Don't I have it installed the way you're describing?
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 21 May 2018, 20:11:02
Hmm, I've not had the bar hitting the plate problem so far when assembling these kits for others. Make sure the spacebar stabilizer orientation is such that the wire is over the switch (north), not closer to you (south). Usually if the stabilizer bar hits a plate, it means it was inserted in incorrect orientation.
Were you able to see the images I included in my post? Don't I have it installed the way you're describing?
Unfortunately the images do not open, so no, I couldn't see how you have set up the stabilizers. I can only go off my own experience with assembling a bunch of these kits now. In the past I did install a stabilizer wire in incorrect orientation because there was an inconsistency between a 60% plate and PCB I was using, so the Enter key stabilizer wire was reversed and the wire was hitting the pate as you describe. Thus, to avoid problems down the road, I even added to my assembly guide here to check that the stabilizer is assembled and installed correctly by using a spacebar cap and checking the movement before soldering everything together.
Post by: Photoelectric on Sun, 29 July 2018, 13:44:02
Link to Easy AVR USB Keyboard Firmware and Keymapper (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0)
In the main Layout section in any layer, you can assign a key to :
BL Enable : turns in-switch LEDs on/off
BL Dimmer : 5 brightness levels for all in-switch LEDs
BL Mode : not very useful, but a couple of breathing modes
(To find these options, please read through the thread above, but the TLDR is to click on a key slot on the layout map, in the new box that opens up click on Key Assignment -> Scancode -> ... button, find BackLight functions in the bottom right section of the full possible function layout).
If you're too lazy to do this and want a premade .hex file for JD40 Mark II PCB to program with FLIP, here's a version for you:
(The Toggle Left Shift Function is mostly for the number row symbols, if you need to type out multiple ones in a row and don't want to press down Shift continuously).
[attach=1]