SMALLFRY ASSEMBLY GUIDE**Please read this even if you know how to assemble keyboards, there are some tricky parts**These are the parts you will receive with each kit (also a Sorbothane gasket, which I forgot to include in the photograph...)
- Top switch plate (titanium, cerakoted or clear matte-coated)
- Bottom plate (titanium, cerakoted or clear matte-coated)
- Sorbothane gasket
- 6 M2 nuts and 6 M2 x 18mm Cap Head Screws to hold the case together
- JD40 Mark II PCB
- 2 large 3M bumpon feet and 2 small 3M bumpon feet
- Cherry 6.25x spacebar stabilizer set
Note that the Sorbothane gasket is flexible and great for adding weight and dampening to the case, but it CAN split if you are not careful with it!!Clear-coated titanium plates have some krytox grease on them. You should wipe it off carefully. Plates with Cerakote colors are clean. Please note that only one side of each plate is finished/coated. Inspect each plate carefully to see which side should be the outer side.
What you will need:- Switches / LEDs
- a thick needle or something similar
- A Torx T6 screwdriver.
- optional 4mm socket wrench
To begin with, please inspect the PCB. It is a JD40 Mark II PCB, fully programmable and supporting LEDs.
Programming guide is located here:https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=83626.0This is the default keymap:
More
Note the little white-gray circular button on the underside, between "W" and "E" switches. This is the button you will need to press to get your keyboard into bootloader mode to flash new firmware!
. . .
ASSEMBLY:
1. Assemble the Cherry spacebar stabilizers and insert them upside down, as follows:
** - Note that the plate cut-outs are very tight, and depending on tolerance variation in different plates, it might be quite difficult to push the stabilizers through the plate. If this is the case, inspect the outer black stabilizer stems on the left and right sides and find that there are 2 "bumps" on either side. Use a file to polish those off gently. Also you may wish to round the corners very slightly. After that, the stabilizer columns should fit through the plates with some gentle pressure. I recommend clipping the Cherry stabilizers for better feel (there are youtube videos on how to do this).
2. After placing the switch plate over the spacebar stabilizers, add a few switches. Put on a 6.25x spacebar and try it out! This will save you a headache if you realize you assembled the stabilizers incorrectly. Make sure the spacebar feels good to press down.
3. Insert the rest of the switches, minding that both pins should go through the PCB, and solder them on. Don't add or solder LEDs yet--test that all your switches are working first. Use a program like AquaKeyTest to check that all the switches are working (remember that there are 2 Fn keys, which won't light up on AquaKeyTest unless you use them in combination with another key).
4. Program your keyboard! This is much easier done now before you finish assembling the case.
5. Begin assembling the case by aligning the black Sorbothane gasket with top and bottom plates. Start with the top left corner like this:
**Use a thick needle or something similar to create the initial hole where bolts will go. Can use a dense object to help you push the needle through (I used my Torx screwdriver):
Pull the needle all the way through with your fingers or pliers.
Next, use your Torx T6 screwdriver to literally screw the first bolt into the sorbothane gasket. Apply gentle pressure and keep the gasket aligned, flush with the top and bottom plates.
DO NOT PUSH THE BOLT THROUGH or you risk ripping the gasket.The bolts are the exact length needed to go through the case and be fixed with a nut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! The Sorbothane gasket should not bulge outward. This is good:
6. Do the same for the next 5 bolts, going counter-clockwise from top left, aligning the gasket as you go. You might find a 4mm socket wrench attachment useful to screw on the nuts. I got mine for about $3 at a local hardware store:
Add the stick-on rubber feet. Note the location of screw-in foot holes in the bottom plate--I prefer to cover them up with the large stick-on feet:
(This picture above shows old bolts, not the same as what you will receive).
7. If you want to reprogram your keyboard, you do not need to disassemble it. Simply loosen the bolt (with screwdriver) in the rear middle and *GENTLY* pull the sorbothane gasket away from the case to reveal the bootloader button, which is between the 3rd and 4th switches: