VVP covered a lot, I'll add a bit more.
Start with PLA, it's cheap and easy, when you go make your case I'd recommend PET.
ABS is the norm for cases and available but a big hassle. PLA can work for a case, however PLA will soften even in a warm car, but worse, it's not a complete solid. Over time it will take on the shape of anything exerting pressure on it. So an 11mm sandwich box compressed to 10mm will eventually become a 10mm box with no clamping force exerted on it. Pet is heat resistant enough for a car and will not distort under pressure, though it can be a bit more expensive and a teeny bit more fickle (delaminating is the biggest issue and changing temp or cooling fan up or down will fix it) so experiment a bit before making the final part if you change plastics.
The Makerspace is a good idea, but NOT for making your case, go there to get started/training and get answers/tips. Most will not let your print run without anyone being there (they are a fire hazard), and this is a problem as it can take many hours to do even half an Ergodox. Nothing good in 3d printing happens fast, after you have done this for a while a 12hour print is almost laughable, and it only gets worse as you get larger printers or get into commercial stuff. No Makerspace is going to let you hang out long enough to make a strong case.
Ender is good, however there is a BUNCH of different models, many of which are TERRIBLE. Get a Pro. It has most of the problems fixed without sorting through 30 or 40 different variants. You will eventually need/want to modify it, there is lots of support, just beware that this is the internet and there is lots of variants. It's very easy to think you're printing an upgrade when not only was an upgrade for an older version, but a downgrade for your model, and worse, designed by someone who had no idea what they were doing.
Start playing with CAD NOW.
I'd recommend Tinkercad (web based) for playing around and Fusion 360 (Mac/Windows) for something more robust. Tinkercad is like playing with Lego and in the right hands is surprisingly powerful even though it's easy enough for a child to learn in minutes (people always under estimate what it can do). Fusion is a full on CAD program, but it will take a while to really get the hang of. Yes, there are others, Freecad and Solidworks being two big ones, Freecad works on any major OS, Solidworks only on Windows, however Solidworks, while EXTREMELY powerful comes with a matching price tag. You will need CAD to get the most out of your printer.
Slicing software,
Don't be pushed into buying software like Simplify, at one time it really was better, if expensive, but open source has caught up and passed it again. I recommend Prusaslicer but Cura is also quite good if a bit clunky.
Oh, and beware, if you are prone to migraines in any way, plan on sticking this in another room, possibly with a hepa filter. PLA should be no worse for you than cooking in your kitchen but some of the additives can be problematic for some people and it's probably just a good idea anyhow. Also noise, while some are quiet enough to sleep around (some deltas in particular), many can be quiet noisy so having it in another room is a good thing. I also have a smoke detector just above it as close as possible.