Might I do some suggestions.
1. The PCB is so big and the mounting system causes it to vibrate slightly when typing on it. I suggest including some rubber pads that sit between pcb and bottom case in a T pattern between the switches, something like Janik did.
Show Image
(https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/663073927257522216/663147965694607371/20200104_233229_compress55.jpg?width=1089&height=530)
2. Please add a connector for the cable. The last GB promised us that we didn't need to solder the cable directly onto the PCB but then just didn't include any connectors. Here is a link to the ones I use and are confirmed working. (the 4 pin ones)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32982059104.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.315e261fVYp9Xm&algo_pvid=951b63d2-0bf1-401a-a35e-0113701fd619&algo_expid=951b63d2-0bf1-401a-a35e-0113701fd619-6&btsid=b3beaf8e-dd89-4d16-bbf9-9ec0f41332eb&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4,searchweb201603_53
Show Image
(https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/598855033483690004/671431060021837824/IMG_20200127_192451_resize_8.jpg?width=971&height=728)
An additional quality of life feature would be not having to relocate two diodes if you want to use the LEDs but that would require a re-design of the PCB and I am not sure if you want to go through that trouble. Also, as you can see, everyone uses the switch holes to secure their cable because the intended holes are too close and would only grip to the small wires coming out of the sleeving, but that would tie into the PCB re-design so it's your call.
You need eh2.54,not xh2.54
Might I do some suggestions.
1. The PCB is so big and the mounting system causes it to vibrate slightly when typing on it. I suggest including some rubber pads that sit between pcb and bottom case in a T pattern between the switches, something like Janik did.
Show Image
(https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/663073927257522216/663147965694607371/20200104_233229_compress55.jpg?width=1089&height=530)
2. Please add a connector for the cable. The last GB promised us that we didn't need to solder the cable directly onto the PCB but then just didn't include any connectors. Here is a link to the ones I use and are confirmed working. (the 4 pin ones)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32982059104.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.315e261fVYp9Xm&algo_pvid=951b63d2-0bf1-401a-a35e-0113701fd619&algo_expid=951b63d2-0bf1-401a-a35e-0113701fd619-6&btsid=b3beaf8e-dd89-4d16-bbf9-9ec0f41332eb&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4,searchweb201603_53
Show Image
(https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/598855033483690004/671431060021837824/IMG_20200127_192451_resize_8.jpg?width=971&height=728)
An additional quality of life feature would be not having to relocate two diodes if you want to use the LEDs but that would require a re-design of the PCB and I am not sure if you want to go through that trouble. Also, as you can see, everyone uses the switch holes to secure their cable because the intended holes are too close and would only grip to the small wires coming out of the sleeving, but that would tie into the PCB re-design so it's your call.
The connector is upgraded to LEMO connector in this version, and the board comes with a cable with LEMO connector. eh2.54 header is no longer used.