Here are pics of some of the ALPs boards I've owned (many I've since sold).
That's a shame - seems like there were a lot of different switches, and lots of love for them.
/me ruins his Filco with all his drooling
Link me some info on that LZ Sifo. I thought Kingsaver and Calavera's MX/Alps board were the only few Korean custom Alps boards out right now.
What do you GH'ers think are the top 5 Alps Switches, and top 5 Alps keyboards?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ywtkhmi.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jmnqn4w.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6bYBr3L.jpg)
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Sifo doesn't actually have or own those boards lmao. He's just posting stuff he sees on KBD.
Get? They MAKE :P
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ywtkhmi.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jmnqn4w.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6bYBr3L.jpg)
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Only problem i see with ALPS boards is the lack of novelty caps, or rather really small amount compared to MX and Topre.
Only problem i see with ALPS boards is the lack of novelty caps, or rather really small amount compared to MX and Topre.
That's not a problem, it just means you'll have fewer distractions from the great typing experience!
Novelty caps distract you? Interesting.
Alps tends to go rotten quickly comparing with Cherry?
I wanted to try out alps switches vs cherry and picked up two chicony boards, one with complicated white one with monterey blue
I am not a fan of the layout and was hoping there was an easy way to make a TKL or smaller form factor keyboard with alps switches.
The ones Sifo posted a while back were sick looking, and finding a case and pcb would be all I need since I can harvest switches.
Not the greatest picture but here's my SGI Granite.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ehG0JrW.jpg)
I wanted to try out alps switches vs cherry and picked up two chicony boards, one with complicated white one with monterey blue
I am not a fan of the layout and was hoping there was an easy way to make a TKL or smaller form factor keyboard with alps switches.
The ones Sifo posted a while back were sick looking, and finding a case and pcb would be all I need since I can harvest switches.
The difficulty is annoying one sided in your quest. Getting a TKL ANSI pcb for ALPS switches is appears to me to be exponentially more difficult that getting switches.
That said I will always appreciated my ALPS, I just sit patiently with bags of switches for one of the projects to take off.
I wanted to try out alps switches vs cherry and picked up two chicony boards, one with complicated white one with monterey blue
I am not a fan of the layout and was hoping there was an easy way to make a TKL or smaller form factor keyboard with alps switches.
The ones Sifo posted a while back were sick looking, and finding a case and pcb would be all I need since I can harvest switches.
The difficulty is annoying one sided in your quest. Getting a TKL ANSI pcb for ALPS switches is appears to me to be exponentially more difficult that getting switches.
That said I will always appreciated my ALPS, I just sit patiently with bags of switches for one of the projects to take off.
Can you find someone with a Ducky 1087XM that's willing to scrap it?
I'm thinking of doing some switch-swaps on my 1008XM because it otherwise fits my needs for a modern board.
Show Image(http://f1nkl.iptime.org:1090/files/ks/DSCF0002yp.JPG)
Here's a reference for lubing alps switches, courtesy of finkl over at KBD.
I wanted to try out alps switches vs cherry and picked up two chicony boards, one with complicated white one with monterey blue
I am not a fan of the layout and was hoping there was an easy way to make a TKL or smaller form factor keyboard with alps switches.
The ones Sifo posted a while back were sick looking, and finding a case and pcb would be all I need since I can harvest switches.
The difficulty is annoying one sided in your quest. Getting a TKL ANSI pcb for ALPS switches is appears to me to be exponentially more difficult that getting switches.
That said I will always appreciated my ALPS, I just sit patiently with bags of switches for one of the projects to take off.
Can you find someone with a Ducky 1087XM that's willing to scrap it?
I'm thinking of doing some switch-swaps on my 1008XM because it otherwise fits my needs for a modern board.
Careful--I've read that Alps XM switches are not pin compatible with original/Fuhua/Matias Alps. XM are supposed to be their own breed. Plus, all reviews are that the Ducky Alps board are ducking awful.
I got hold of a couple of Dell AT101Ws, and an Abs M1 for my own future switch transplant boards. Neither is TKL, but the M1 is a modern 104 chassis, at least, and the Dell boards are nice quality, key caps excepted.
I wanted to try out alps switches vs cherry and picked up two chicony boards, one with complicated white one with monterey blue
I am not a fan of the layout and was hoping there was an easy way to make a TKL or smaller form factor keyboard with alps switches.
The ones Sifo posted a while back were sick looking, and finding a case and pcb would be all I need since I can harvest switches.
The difficulty is annoying one sided in your quest. Getting a TKL ANSI pcb for ALPS switches is appears to me to be exponentially more difficult that getting switches.
That said I will always appreciated my ALPS, I just sit patiently with bags of switches for one of the projects to take off.
Can you find someone with a Ducky 1087XM that's willing to scrap it?
I'm thinking of doing some switch-swaps on my 1008XM because it otherwise fits my needs for a modern board.
Careful--I've read that Alps XM switches are not pin compatible with original/Fuhua/Matias Alps. XM are supposed to be their own breed. Plus, all reviews are that the Ducky Alps board are ducking awful.
I got hold of a couple of Dell AT101Ws, and an Abs M1 for my own future switch transplant boards. Neither is TKL, but the M1 is a modern 104 chassis, at least, and the Dell boards are nice quality, key caps excepted.
The swapping worked fine for me. I have a Dell AT101W with green XM switches from as Ducky, and a Ducky 1008XM with black ALPS switches from said AT101W.
I also have a 1087XM board sitting around, I just really would prefer a gh-60 ALPS variant for layout options and size than the typical TKL.
I'm using an SGI Granite board with cream Alps at work (silent tactical Alps), and while the switches could be lighter for me, it has a very nice feel and is nicely silent.
After just a couple weeks, I love my Mini Quiet Pro; It's spoiling me. It and its siblings (Mini Tactile Pro and Laptop Pro) are the only compact ALPS keyboards you can buy new today, and they've got great switches.
Not the greatest picture but here's my SGI Granite.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ehG0JrW.jpg)
That's interesting - white and gray (whatever), but the function keys are all white.
There was a discussion about this somewhere here recently.
Not the greatest picture but here's my SGI Granite.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ehG0JrW.jpg)
That's interesting - white and gray (whatever), but the function keys are all white.
There was a discussion about this somewhere here recently.
Really? That's the normal color combination I've seen for SGI granite keyboards. Deskthority and Ripster had that same color combination up on their SGI granite info pages.
It's the combo I vaguely remember from supporting a load of SGI's back in the 90s as well.
Careful--I've read that Alps XM switches are not pin compatible with original/Fuhua/Matias Alps. XM are supposed to be their own breed.
Recently, I acquired an Apple Extended Keyboard with the intent of adding it to my personal collection.
I have had 3-4 of them in the past, all with some defect, usually one or more dead keys. Now that I have a bag of orange Alps switches, I figured that I could repair one if I needed to get it back to proper condition.
I tested this one (it was dirty and yellowed, but I needed to see whether it was OK electrically) and all worked properly.
When I took it apart, I realized that it has pink Alps. I used to be confused between orange and salmon, since the orange is not particularly bright and I have bought actual salmon that was very colorful (I suppose that wild salmon tends toward red while farmed salmon tends to orange).
Anyway, here it is, open and still dirty, with blue and orange switches for comparison, with and without flash, since lighting always seems hard for me.
My dilemma is whether to clean it up, put it back together and keep it, clean it and sell it, or to harvest the switches and keep them or sell them.
If anybody is interested in buying the complete board or the switches, please send me a private message in the next couple of days. I will think about it through the weekend and decide by the beginning of the week.
Recently, I acquired an Apple Extended Keyboard with the intent of adding it to my personal collection. [...] When I took it apart, I realized that it has pink Alps. I used to be confused between orange and salmon, since the orange is not particularly bright and I have bought actual salmon that was very colorful.I’m pretty sure the kind you have there is what gets called “salmon” (and I agree that’s a confusing name).
Which Alps keyboards have you loved over the years?None! I have tried very little Alps based. Maybe the Northgate Omnikey 101 would come close to feeling nice but she is broken (sadly).
Which ones do you use on a regular basis?APC Clicker F-21... because SiiG Minitouch is somewhat on a permanent borrow basis and Northgate Omnikey 101 needs repairs.
Which ones do you recommend for the community?Depending on size. Definitely would not really recommend APC Clicker because the feel as described by some members on the deskthority forums as inconsistent feel. Some keys would feel stiff and other keys would feel soft. It is not like Realforce's variable weight, it is much worse than that. Even after lubing the switches (via leaf springs) the feel is still inconsistent.
How does the feel compare to orange alps switches? I like the orange ones in some M0116/AEKs much better than the “cream” kind found in the AEK2. And since you seem to have a number of different types there, how does the feel compare to the blue ones?
Never tried an alps board before but I really want to...what switch would you guys recommend to start off with?
Never tried an alps board before but I really want to.
Never tried an alps board before but I really want to...what switch would you guys recommend to start off with?
Never tried an alps board before but I really want to.
The best are the hardest to find, and vice versa.
The 2 keyboards that are common and cheap are the Dell AT101 (black, tactile) and the Apple Extended Keyboard II (dampened cream, tactile but attenuated). These can be bought on ebay for $10-20 + shipping or found at salvage stores, yard sales, or thrift stores from time to time.
The Dell does not enjoy a very high reputation, but a good fresh one can be pretty nice. I have had several, and recently I got one that was horrible, far worse than ever before, and so don't give up immediately.
The Apple AEK2 is well thought-of by many people, but will require an ADB adapter which will cost $20 on ebay. They are also very prone to yellowing.
The first Apple Extended Keyboard has orange or pink aka salmon Alps which are more tactile and nicer, in my opinion.
I have never had any of the more exotic Alps such as yellow or green, and you are less likely to find them, anyway.
The clicky ones are what I like. White is relatively easy to find (look for a Focus 2001), but too stiff for my tastes. Blue reigns supreme but is not available in any modern board (except for a very few early Northgate Omnikeys) and will likely be pricey.
Oh wow, so many types of switches! It's a whole new world out here separate from MX or Topre.
Oh wow, so many types of switches! It's a whole new world out here separate from MX or Topre.
Alps lovers think that Cherries feel cheap and plasitcky.
Cherry lovers think that Alps feel wobbly.
For me, one of the most endearing traits of Alps is their high actuation point.
I found a SiiG SunTouch, a MiniTouch wired for Sun boxes with some sort of blue ALPs (doesn't feel like my Chicony Montereys). It has a DIN5 connector, which is not apparently AT, since it doesn't convert to PS2 with my normal AT-PS2 adapter.
Can anyone say whether this might be XT or did Sun boxes use a special DIN5 connector? Bottom line: is there a converter somewhere for SunTouch to USB, or is this likely to be useful only for harvesting the switches and keycaps?
The first Apple Extended Keyboard has orange or pink aka salmon Alps which are more tactile and nicer, in my opinion.
That's a 5161A. The 'A' was the NKRO series with blue Alps, Omron B3G-S and Mitsumi switch versions.
So that's got no model number, FCC ID, serial, anything? Any year on the PCB?
Original black Alps switches (with slits) are pretty uncommon.
Keycaps may have been made anywhere following Bull requirements, even in France...
The only thing I can say ATM is typing is a bit less clicky than on model M
I really have a tactile feedback and a firm shock when key is fully down (not like on rubber domes).
So in picked up an apple AEK with what appears to be white alps. My question is this, are the supposed to be clicky or just tactile?AEK or AEK II? I don’t know any AEKs with clicky switches, but it’s possible.
So in picked up an apple AEK with what appears to be white alps. My question is this, are the supposed to be clicky or just tactile?AEK or AEK II? I don’t know any AEKs with clicky switches, but it’s possible.
Most AEKs used orange tactile switches. Most AEK IIs used cream dampened tactile switches.
The “cream” color is pretty light, but cream sliders distinctly different from the white sliders.
It’s of course also possible that someone swapped the switches. :)
Well I just looked at it again and it is an AEKII. I have pulled a couple switches apart. I didn't take that close of a look at them.Okay, well the dampened switches are relatively quiet to type on, because the slider has a little piece of black rubber stuck in each side, which is what hits the plastic at the bottom or top of the switch housing (dampening the sound).
I've got a beat-up focus 2001 keyboard, which I guess has alps-clone switches- could anyone tell me what it might be worth?
For parts or something- missing tilde and f2 keycaps, and the tilde's mount post is chipped.
I've got a beat-up focus 2001 keyboard, which I guess has alps-clone switches
I've got a beat-up focus 2001 keyboard, which I guess has alps-clone switches
Does it have Windows keys? The later ones are OK but less desirable, the earlier ones have really nice multi-color keys.
You should find that the Windows and menu keys are pad printed, while the rest are doubleshot.Correct- I couldn't tell at first, because of the lack of a decal-like splotch, but the printing on those has a different texture from the rest of the board.
That's from my assumption that they're Tai-Hao doubleshots, and from Tai-Hao only being able to pad print those keys presently.
The switches will presumably be the T1 type shown here (compare the numbering):Yup- they each have four characters printed on them like that t1 picture.
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Focus_FK-2001
I have a bowling ball with texture like that. It's funny because last week I just switched from a Model M to a Dell AT101W at work. I wouldn't say I prefer it to the Model M, but I like to change things up from time to time for variety.
Yours has certainly beat mine out of the park.
FYI, it's lubing, not lubbing and lube, not lub.
I did not mean you were hostile, but english is not my mother tongue so it always takes me more time to post things, mainly when using words I only recently learned : to lube = lubrifier, so you lube with lube ? correct ?In English, the the noun is ‘lubricant’ and the verb is ‘to lubricate’. These get shortened to ‘lube’ and ‘to lube’. The other forms would be ‘lubed’, ‘lubing’, etc.
I did not mean you were hostile, but english is not my mother tongue so it always takes me more time to post things, mainly when using words I only recently learned : to lube = lubrifier, so you lube with lube ? correct ?
I'm now starting to get a bit of an itch to design an 84 key board with alps switches... i forgot how much i like typing on alps. They have a nice mechanical pop to them.
AT102W owner here. The ISO (102) layout seems very rare. Black complicated tactile ALPS. Currently looking for a complete ISO set of blank ALPS caps.Show Image(http://a.pomf.se/8Lz8.jpg)
Luckily I have an old broken AT102W with about 100 ALPS switches. I'd like to keep a few for when i need to perform surgery on mine (happened under the black caps), but if anyone needs one or two, I could perhaps take them off.
I have an AT102w too. What kind paint did you use to paint it?
I'm now starting to get a bit of an itch to design an 84 key board with alps switches... i forgot how much i like typing on alps. They have a nice mechanical pop to them.
I'm now starting to get a bit of an itch to design an 84 key board with alps switches... i forgot how much i like typing on alps. They have a nice mechanical pop to them.
About time to necro this thread.
My Filco Zero (thanks Moose!) now has blue Alps.
Nice! How long did it take to switch it?
Nice! How long did it take to switch it?
I did the switch transplant. Removing the old ones is much harder than installing the new ones.
Depending on how efficient you are, I would suggest allowing an hour each for removing switches from the 2 boards and another hour for installing the new ones. If you are good and have good tools you might cut those times in half.
For me, when I have the thing completely apart, I use the opportunity to do a thorough cleaning, and often paint the plate, too.
I switch swapped on two of my keyboards. one alps (dell at102w)
I filled a Dell AT101W with orange Alps from an old Apple, and whoever had built the Dell had bent over *every single leg* of every switch and I am not kidding.
I filled a Dell AT101W with orange Alps from an old Apple, and whoever had built the Dell had bent over *every single leg* of every switch and I am not kidding.
This is also my experience with all 4 of the AT101Ws I have taken apart. It is quite annoying when you compare the work required to get these bent legged switches out compared to straight legged ones.
IBM M 1390131 ALPS SKCM blue switches,Nov 86
Agreed, please show us some pictures :D
ALPS fans :D IBM M 1390131 ALPS SKCM blue switches,Nov 86You have me pretty confused about how you made this picture. Could you please take a picture of one keycap from each row from the side and one keycap from each row from the bottom? (i.e. just pull them off and set them next to each other on a table)
IBM M 1390131 ALPS SKCM blue switches,Nov 86
That's definitely a mod. A nice mod, though.
The donor board is sort of interesting though... Costar-style stabilizers, and matching the 1390131 layout exactly.I’m also curious about that. Most of the Alps boards I’ve seen with costar-style stabilizers had a “bigass enter” key.
The logo gives it away. It's not set into the plastic, but on top of it. Seems to be little more than one of those Model M case look-alikes with the IBM badge glued on top. The keycaps likely came from an IBM PS/2 luggable, since they often used ALPS or ALPS mount switches.No, the keycaps are definitely not the same as the ones on a P70/P75 luggable.
Had me going, there for a while.Please be patient...
So, is it agreed that this is a hoax?
The photo show inconsistencies in heights and fit, but it was pretty clever anyway!
Please be patient...Uh huh...
I will take pictures and upload all pictures, including key caps, circuit boards and case
The results are not even close. I had read someone on this forum that mentioned a hollow sound from the Matias clickies that thought maybe it was because the Matias boards were all PCB mounted. This is not the case, this keyboard the keys are mounted on a thick plate of steel. I'm sure they are great to type on but they are not drop-in replacements for complicated white alps for anyone doing restorations on those type of boards.Matias clicky switches feel somewhat similar to complicated Alps switches, but they definitely don’t sound the same. This is because they have only two little pieces of metal for the actual switch contact, instead of a very complicated switchplate assembly. I still like them though.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6bYBr3L.jpg)
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NEC PK-KB015 ALPS SKCL yellow switch[NIB] :p
NEC PK-KB015 ALPS SKCL yellow switch[NIB] :p
That is one wonky looking board. Love it. How do you like the Yellow Alps?
NEC PK-KB015 ALPS SKCL yellow switch[NIB] :pOMG, I would love to have one of these. Lucky Japanese people get all the good stuff. In the west the people making decisions about keyboard design for big computer companies are lazy and cheap.
NEC PK-KB015 ALPS SKCL yellow switch[NIB] :p:eek: magnefecent, i interest get one sym sgg vers. like hasu have :p
New ALPS board!!!
All swithes are ALPS SKCL grey with LED in entire PCB
^-^
Slightly heavier than the Yellow switch
Well, here is my new-old Dell
Well, here is my new-old Dell
The yellowed space bar leads me to believe that you probably have the PBT caps. If so, they are quite desirable by themselves.
been searching the webs for hours searching a linear complicated alps board,
There are a at least a couple of green Alps boards currently on US ebay, but they’re pretty steep in price:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121747977710
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111761904156
This may be a dumb question, but what makes a linear switch better/worse than the others? I mean, it's linear. Smoothness, maybe?
This may be a dumb question, but what makes a linear switch better/worse than the others? I mean, it's linear. Smoothness, maybe?
As a huge broad oversimplification, typists like tactility so that they know when they have activated their character.
Gamers like linear switches because they can be faster when pressing multiple times in quick succession.
This may be a dumb question, but what makes a linear switch better/worse than the others? I mean, it's linear. Smoothness, maybe?
As a huge broad oversimplification, typists like tactility so that they know when they have activated their character.
Gamers like linear switches because they can be faster when pressing multiple times in quick succession.
Sorry, my question wasn't clear. What makes one type of linear switch (say, green Alps) better than another linear switch (e.g., MX Blacks)?
Totally agree with nubbinator. I'd rather have Green Alps over any MX-mount switch. Although Gateron Blacks is making me think twice before saying that
Green Alps, to me at least, are smoother and are less wobbly through the throw than MX Black. They also have a more pleasant weight.
One of these days I'm going to decide if I want to sell, cannibalize, or keep my three green alps boards. It is hard to pin down a fair price on the ZKB-2.
Green Alps, to me at least, are smoother and are less wobbly through the throw than MX Black. They also have a more pleasant weight.
right!
i used to own a zenith with green alps, and cherry mx switches have never felt as satisfying to me. they feel somewhat scratchy and plastic-y, in comparison.One of these days I'm going to decide if I want to sell, cannibalize, or keep my three green alps boards. It is hard to pin down a fair price on the ZKB-2.
are all three ZKB2 boards? :-X
if you ever decide to sell one, i'd like to know! :p
I think I am about to begin my journey into the world of Alps. I'll be sure to bug you experts with all of my questions in the future. For now, it's time to start up the research.
Thanks man. I'll check it out.I think I am about to begin my journey into the world of Alps. I'll be sure to bug you experts with all of my questions in the future. For now, it's time to start up the research.
We discussed switch comparisons in the Alps 60% thread the other day if you want to know more. I compiled a list of Chyros' Alps reviews (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74524.msg1854189#msg1854189), CPTBadass linked his reviews (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74524.msg1854207#msg1854207), and Chyros himself offered some succinct opinions (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74524.msg1854281#msg1854281). You might find it interesting/useful.
I've been afk for like six months, what Alps projects have rolled out recently?The Alps Party 60% GB by BlueNalgene with hasu's PCBs, Matias switches and stabilizers, plates designed by Blue and me.
I entered the world of ALPS with KBP V60 with Matias quiet switches. I totally love it! I find its tactile feedback more appealing to me than Cherry. It's my favorite switch so far. I might try some vintage ALPS in the future but I feel ambivalent on that. Original ALPS are about 20 years old in average and switches do wear out over time. If my favorite switches die and I can't find replacement for it, that will be very sad...I'm right there with you. I've tried several kinds of vintage Alps, and I like my Quiet Clicks as much or more than any of them.
I entered the world of ALPS with KBP V60 with Matias quiet switches. I totally love it! I find its tactile feedback more appealing to me than Cherry. It's my favorite switch so far. I might try some vintage ALPS in the future but I feel ambivalent on that. Original ALPS are about 20 years old in average and switches do wear out over time. If my favorite switches die and I can't find replacement for it, that will be very sad...In addition to what's been mentioned, check out badwrench's Infinity modifier set (the first ever successful Alps GB, and my inspiration for Alpine Winter) and koalapear's Monarch LHTK custom. And Massdrop has had two successful buys for Tai Hao Alps keycaps in WoB, Dolch, and Olivetti colorways. Also, Matias is very close to offering thick PBT dyesub replacement sets.
I am really excited about Matias's PBT. I check that thread like once a day :cool:I entered the world of ALPS with KBP V60 with Matias quiet switches. I totally love it! I find its tactile feedback more appealing to me than Cherry. It's my favorite switch so far. I might try some vintage ALPS in the future but I feel ambivalent on that. Original ALPS are about 20 years old in average and switches do wear out over time. If my favorite switches die and I can't find replacement for it, that will be very sad...In addition to what's been mentioned, check out badwrench's Infinity modifier set (the first ever successful Alps GB, and my inspiration for Alpine Winter) and koalapear's Monarch LHTK custom. And Massdrop has had two successful buys for Tai Hao Alps keycaps in WoB, Dolch, and Olivetti colorways. Also, Matias is very close to offering thick PBT dyesub replacement sets.
So lots, really.
Hello brother can i ask you what custom tkl that support alps other than kingsaver and orion v2?. Gonna sell my hhkb and 55g topre because that great SKCM Blue
nah man not so interested in that style but thanks for the reply manHello brother can i ask you what custom tkl that support alps other than kingsaver and orion v2?. Gonna sell my hhkb and 55g topre because that great SKCM Blue
Give this a check
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77084.0
nah man not so interested in that style but thanks for the reply man
Can't believe I only just now found this thread. Nearly all of my keyboards use Alps, including a new-old French ANSI layout NeXT, KBP V60, Apple M0116, another M0116...He's looking for an Aluminum custom. I can't think of any others, but I've heard murmurs about an Orion v3 coming soon.
I've also got an IBM with SKCC Greens and an Apple M0110 with SKCC Cream.nah man not so interested in that style but thanks for the reply man
You're probably looking for the KBP V80.
Can't believe I only just now found this thread. Nearly all of my keyboards use Alps, including a new-old French ANSI layout NeXT, KBP V60, Apple M0116, another M0116...I came across your eBay store looking for Alps boards. You wouldn't happen to have any spare ADB to USB cables, would you? I'm looking for one so I can test out my M0116! :thumb:
I've also got an IBM with SKCC Greens and an Apple M0110 with SKCC Cream.nah man not so interested in that style but thanks for the reply man
You're probably looking for the KBP V80.
I came across your eBay store looking for Alps boards. You wouldn't happen to have any spare ADB to USB cables, would you? I'm looking for one so I can test out my M0116! :thumb:
You wouldn't happen to have any spare ADB to USB cables, would you?
Thanks! I must've missed this one. I've been looking for a used one.You wouldn't happen to have any spare ADB to USB cables, would you?
If you like old Apple gear, you should have one of these lying around for testing purposes:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Griffin-2001-ADB-iMate-Universal-ADB-to-USB-adapter-for-Apple-Mac-/181936558619?hash=item2a5c43921b:g:t78AAOSwLzdWTfWa
how do i start searching for alps? im new to this alps gameIf you like clicky switches, start with a board with white Alps in it, they're pretty good and easy to get. Just make sure to ask for a shot with a cap off because many Alps boards could come with several types of switch.
thats the problem im searching for the best and that is the blue alps how much do you think for a donor board?how do i start searching for alps? im new to this alps gameIf you like clicky switches, start with a board with white Alps in it, they're pretty good and easy to get. Just make sure to ask for a shot with a cap off because many Alps boards could come with several types of switch.
At least $100. Blue Alps don't come cheap because everyone knows their reputation. You might want to consider a more entry-level Alps board to see if you even like them at all.thats the problem im searching for the best and that is the blue alps how much do you think for a donor board?how do i start searching for alps? im new to this alps gameIf you like clicky switches, start with a board with white Alps in it, they're pretty good and easy to get. Just make sure to ask for a shot with a cap off because many Alps boards could come with several types of switch.
At least $100. Blue Alps don't come cheap because everyone knows their reputation. You might want to consider a more entry-level Alps board to see if you even like them at all.thats the problem im searching for the best and that is the blue alps how much do you think for a donor board?how do i start searching for alps? im new to this alps gameIf you like clicky switches, start with a board with white Alps in it, they're pretty good and easy to get. Just make sure to ask for a shot with a cap off because many Alps boards could come with several types of switch.
I'm on the hunt for those Matias Quiet Clicks :cool:You can buy it on their website right?
I believe so. I've bought them from mechanicalkeyboards.com before as well.I'm on the hunt for those Matias Quiet Clicks :cool:You can buy it on their website right?
But what board do I put them in? :eek:Buy a new one :p :p
But what board do I put them in? :eek:
I would like to appreciate Alps.
Stated another way: good Alps are better than good Cherries but bad Cherries are better than bad Alps.I can’t support this. I’ve seen Cherry boards that were just as unusable as the worst Alps board.
Alps64 with salmon and white/orange hybrid switches ...
Alps64 with salmon and white/orange hybrid switches ...That's sexy. I would love to have a board like that!
Alps64 with salmon and white/orange hybrid switches ...
Nice dye job! What kind/color dye did you use?
Alps64 with salmon and white/orange hybrid switches ...That's sexy. I would love to have a board like that!
Alps64 with salmon and white/orange hybrid switches ...
Nice dye job! What kind/color dye did you use?
It's iDye Poly turqoise. Dye did come out quiet nice.
What's the process of dying the caps with iDye?
What's the process of dying the caps with iDye?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35444.msg658453#msg658453
What's the process of dying the caps with iDye?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35444.msg658453#msg658453
3. VE.A : Alps Green Linear Switch from Zenith ZKB-2 and Keycaps from Apple M3501 + M0116
CNC aluminium Armor + CNC Poly Carbonate Frame + 1.5T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
This is my weapon of choice. Just perfect for my taste.
Alps green linear switch is my favorite.
It has subtle tactile feeling even it's designed as a linear mechanism.
Pressure is not that light, but bouncy.
I coated its slider with krytox lubs, feels a little soaked but smooth.
I use broken vintage alps keyboards for my custom keyboard.
Here's some of my works.
1. alpetit II : Alps Salmon Pink Switch from Dell AT101
acrylic housing + 1.5T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
It's no good for me. I don't use it. Switches are too damaged, I just assembled this for sample shots. What a waste.
2. alpetit II : Alps Plate Spring Switch from IBM 5576-001 and Keycaps from Apple M0115 + M0116
acrylic housing + 1.2T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
One of my favorite. The clicky sounds and tactile feeling are so addictive. (I replaced housing with red one after took youtube video stream.)
3. VE.A : Alps Green Linear Switch from Zenith ZKB-2 and Keycaps from Apple M3501 + M0116
CNC aluminium Armor + CNC Poly Carbonate Frame + 1.5T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
This is my weapon of choice. Just perfect for my taste.
Alps green linear switch is my favorite.
It has subtle tactile feeling even it's designed as a linear mechanism.
Pressure is not that light, but bouncy.
I coated its slider with krytox lubs, feels a little soaked but smooth.
Dammit, now I need to change my pants!
But seriously, those are some spectacular keyboards you have there. Thanks for sharing!
Wow, that split one looks really awsome. Please post more pics.
So sexy...Dammit, now I need to change my pants!
But seriously, those are some spectacular keyboards you have there. Thanks for sharing!Wow, that split one looks really awsome. Please post more pics.
Thanks guys, here's some more pics I just took.
Here's more on kbdlab gallery, It's built with Cherry MX Black with 60g customized spring.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3152205&mid=board_Lsno50
3. VE.A : Alps Green Linear Switch from Zenith ZKB-2 and Keycaps from Apple M3501 + M0116
CNC aluminium Armor + CNC Poly Carbonate Frame + 1.5T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
This is my weapon of choice. Just perfect for my taste.
Alps green linear switch is my favorite.
It has subtle tactile feeling even it's designed as a linear mechanism.
Pressure is not that light, but bouncy.
I coated its slider with krytox lubs, feels a little soaked but smooth.
I use broken vintage alps keyboards for my custom keyboard.
Here's some of my works.
1. alpetit II : Alps Salmon Pink Switch from Dell AT101
acrylic housing + 1.5T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
It's no good for me. I don't use it. Switches are too damaged, I just assembled this for sample shots. What a waste.
2. alpetit II : Alps Plate Spring Switch from IBM 5576-001 and Keycaps from Apple M0115 + M0116
acrylic housing + 1.2T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
One of my favorite. The clicky sounds and tactile feeling are so addictive. (I replaced housing with red one after took youtube video stream.)
3. VE.A : Alps Green Linear Switch from Zenith ZKB-2 and Keycaps from Apple M3501 + M0116
CNC aluminium Armor + CNC Poly Carbonate Frame + 1.5T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
This is my weapon of choice. Just perfect for my taste.
Alps green linear switch is my favorite.
It has subtle tactile feeling even it's designed as a linear mechanism.
Pressure is not that light, but bouncy.
I coated its slider with krytox lubs, feels a little soaked but smooth.
I use broken vintage alps keyboards for my custom keyboard.
Here's some of my works.
1. alpetit II : Alps Salmon Pink Switch from Dell AT101
acrylic housing + 1.5T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
It's no good for me. I don't use it. Switches are too damaged, I just assembled this for sample shots. What a waste.
2. alpetit II : Alps Plate Spring Switch from IBM 5576-001 and Keycaps from Apple M0115 + M0116
acrylic housing + 1.2T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
One of my favorite. The clicky sounds and tactile feeling are so addictive. (I replaced housing with red one after took youtube video stream.)
3. VE.A : Alps Green Linear Switch from Zenith ZKB-2 and Keycaps from Apple M3501 + M0116
CNC aluminium Armor + CNC Poly Carbonate Frame + 1.5T STS mounting plate.
(Attachment Link)
This is my weapon of choice. Just perfect for my taste.
Alps green linear switch is my favorite.
It has subtle tactile feeling even it's designed as a linear mechanism.
Pressure is not that light, but bouncy.
I coated its slider with krytox lubs, feels a little soaked but smooth.
Are you the one who created that split keyboard, the VE.A?
Jeez, and now I find out that it is Alps compatible. Simply amazing and I'm incredibly jelly! That's such a cool custom!
Might finally have another custom aside from the Octagon I'm lusting for now. :P
I love it. I'd be interested in one if they were sold.
I love it. I'd be interested in one if they were sold.
Likewise! Though with the Octagon v2 coming around, I'd explode if the two buys were close together.
Zefyr, are the PCBs Alps and Cherry MX compatible by default, or do you have separate PCBs for Alps and Cherry? If the Alps PCB is separate, does it allow for in-switch backlighting?
Sorry for all the questions. :)
I love it. I'd be interested in one if they were sold.
Likewise! Though with the Octagon v2 coming around, I'd explode if the two buys were close together.
Zefyr, are the PCBs Alps and Cherry MX compatible by default, or do you have separate PCBs for Alps and Cherry? If the Alps PCB is separate, does it allow for in-switch backlighting?
Sorry for all the questions. :)
Not at all E3E. :)
My new PCB (Vergo type.T-II) is Cherry MX / Alps compatible and in-switch backlighting is all available also.
But because of backlighting, when it comes to alps there is one critical point.
Old stepped style Alps capslock is not fit on VTT2, I couldn't place switch pads for alps for that damn stem position. It's not at cherry's vintage, nor oem's centered position, it's between them and alps pads cannot be placed... I tried to flip upside-down thing but no luck, LED pads is all over the positions.
My other PCB for example alpetit, is certainly fit all of AT101, AT101W, AEK M3501(M0115 also).
I'm trying to solve this problem on my next PCB, but well... :)
I love it. I'd be interested in one if they were sold.
Likewise! Though with the Octagon v2 coming around, I'd explode if the two buys were close together.
Zefyr, are the PCBs Alps and Cherry MX compatible by default, or do you have separate PCBs for Alps and Cherry? If the Alps PCB is separate, does it allow for in-switch backlighting?
Sorry for all the questions. :)
Not at all E3E. :)
My new PCB (Vergo type.T-II) is Cherry MX / Alps compatible and in-switch backlighting is all available also.
But because of backlighting, when it comes to alps there is one critical point.
Old stepped style Alps capslock is not fit on VTT2, I couldn't place switch pads for alps for that damn stem position. It's not at cherry's vintage, nor oem's centered position, it's between them and alps pads cannot be placed... I tried to flip upside-down thing but no luck, LED pads is all over the positions.
My other PCB for example alpetit, is certainly fit all of AT101, AT101W, AEK M3501(M0115 also).
I'm trying to solve this problem on my next PCB, but well... :)
Thank you, zefyr. :)
That sounds great! I love MX + Alps PCB designs. Yes, I have noticed this too. It seems that stepped Caps Lock keys on Alps keyboards are between the Cherry style and Non-stepped. I found this out when I was working on my project for a hotswappable backlit Alps keyboard (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77497.msg1952047#msg1952047). Though designing a custom PCB is infinitely more awesome.
I can't quite recall how it was done on the Eagle's PCB, but I will say that the pads for the Alps-stepped Caps lock position were so strange, that I didn't notice them. They just looked like PCB-mount leg holes for Cherry MX, but then I realized it was for Alps. I know this doesn't help much!
Here is an image of the position (I missed it, so I didn't add sockets to it at this point), it's circled in green on the right side of the picture. My camera isn't that great so it's a bit fuzzy. :(Show Image(http://puu.sh/lNqRR/942e7c1ec6.jpg)
Not sure if it can spark any ideas, but I do hope you can get that position figured out! If I can be of any further assistance, please let me know. Your board is great as is, but if you can solve this problem, that'd be even better. :D
Thanks man, I saw your job. Really impressive!
Here's the problem with caps that I remember.
Old alps caps position is about center between cherry OEM position (center of 1.75) and cherry stepped position (center of 1.25); yeh - 1.5 position.
It's no problem when switch is cherry, two reeds of switch is far enough (Y axis). but alps is not, it's damn right there. Gap between reeds is only 0.5mm. it cannot be placed 1.25/1.5/1.75 at the same time.
I designed another PCB series named alpetit - 60% only for alps switches, no pads for Cherry MX.
And same problem 1.25/1.5/1.75 happen's here too. but it can be done by placing 1.5 position pads upside-down, since it has no in-switch LED pads.
But your work is so encouraging! I'm gonna work on breaking that damn problem. I wish I can solve it.
So Alps people can you guide me?Are you looking for a full-size?
What are the current options for pcb to put alps on ?
That would be to put those beauties onto somethingShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vLd3YHc.jpg)
So Alps people can you guide me?
What are the current options for pcb to put alps on ?
That would be to put those beauties onto somethingShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vLd3YHc.jpg)
So Alps people can you guide me?Are you looking for a full-size?
What are the current options for pcb to put alps on ?
That would be to put those beauties onto somethingShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vLd3YHc.jpg)
If you can wait a couple months, the JD45 will be Alps compatible, too.
Well, the Enter is only 1.75u, so it should be equally bad/good for both ANSI and ISO users. :-*If you can wait a couple months, the JD45 will be Alps compatible, too.
But not iso compatible iirc ;)
Well. I looked in my basement today and found this from my grandparent's old computer.
A year ago I'd probably think nothing of it but now I know how lucky I am to find this. How much is something like this worth? I have never experienced ALPS until now and I gotta say it ain't half bad.
Well. I looked in my basement today and found this from my grandparent's old computer.
A year ago I'd probably think nothing of it but now I know how lucky I am to find this. How much is something like this worth? I have never experienced ALPS until now and I gotta say it ain't half bad.
Well. I looked in my basement today and found this from my grandparent's old computer.
A year ago I'd probably think nothing of it but now I know how lucky I am to find this. How much is something like this worth? I have never experienced ALPS until now and I gotta say it ain't half bad.
Thats not Alps. Its slider over rubber dome.
SKCL green are probably the nicest linears i've ever tried
I'm pretty sure the automated stocking system at work has Green ALPS. Its ungodly smooth. Much more smooth than even the like new vintage MX Blacks I got or my gaterons. Thats the only thing I could think of that it might be.
Over on Deskthority there is a major thread and they are nearing completion. They have several models of it already and it looks really good. ;D
Just pulled the trigger on a Christmas gift for myself: a refurbished Zenith 1860 84-key with Green SKCL's, based on E3E's constant praise and my love for linears :)
Very exciting! The layout looks surprisingly usable, so I can't wait to show it off at work. There is an Alps fan there with a Matias Quiet Click and AEKII that will be very jealous :p
Just pulled the trigger on a Christmas gift for myself: a refurbished Zenith 1860 84-key with Green SKCL's, based on E3E's constant praise and my love for linears :)
Very exciting! The layout looks surprisingly usable, so I can't wait to show it off at work. There is an Alps fan there with a Matias Quiet Click and AEKII that will be very jealous :p
sweet gift! :D
i have its brother (the 1886). real nice PBT dyesub caps. spacebar is abs, LED-caps are pad printed ABS double-shots. you can turn the noise-thing on-off with alt + esc
really, really nice linear switches, cherry mx linears are absolutely no match :cool:
it's quite pingy, but other than that it sounds and feels real nice. i think it would suit the board if some noise-dampening material is applied inside the case. still have to try it myself ^-^
my only gripes are that the Return key isn't very smooth (weirdly 'stabilized'), and the spacebar is a bit rattly. i guess i'll apply some lube to both to see if that improves things :)
brown linears? aren't those extremely rare?
how do they compare to greens?
i actually prefer the F-section of the XT boards over the standard F-row of today.
when i switch from an XT board to a 'classic' board, i'm quickly annoyed by the F-row.
clustered together on the left side makes so much more sense for my left arm/hand. i wish it was common practise!
cheers for the tip, i think i'll try the paper/bandaid trick!
edit: is NKRO that much more expensive to make, or something?
i mean.. so many huge names/brands have 6KRO or even lower. why? super old boards prove that NKRO has always been an option.
and for example hasu's controller shows that NKRO is possible over USB.
why is NKRO not the standard?
not that i need more than 6KRO, but i just don't understand why we went from NKRO to 6KRO
The only NKRO boards I know of in the vintage Alps world are the Z-150, the ZKB-2, the Omnikey, the Leading Edge DC-2014, the Leading Edge DC-3014, and the Chicony 5161A.Ironically, my Omnikey Ultra doesn't even have NKRO, it seems to be broken somehow xD .
NEC PK-KB015 ALPS SKCL yellow switch[NIB] :pThis board is wild! I've never seen anything like it!
So Alps people can you guide me?
What are the current options for pcb to put alps on ?
That would be to put those beauties onto somethingShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vLd3YHc.jpg)
awjio4fwjiowatjwt04239oops! Was testing xRKO on my M since it's going through a kvm switch--seems to be limited to 6. :(
No they went down under a long time ago. Matias is the only company that makes alps switches/boards now.
the whole "The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog" test
the whole "The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog" test
Am I really seeing these words from someone with 900+ posts?
Zenith board with Green SKCL Alps came in yesterday. Gotta say, so far I am vastly underwhelmed. I opened a couple switches and lubed them with Krytox 203, still scratchy. I like to hope it's because there's something in them that needs cleaning out (Alps seem very temperamental) because these have a LONG way to go before they're as smooth as either my vintage MX or Gateron Blacks. Love the form factor and build quality of the board for the most part, though the caps feel way thinner than they look.
I'm thinking I'll have to disassemble the entire thing and wash it all out, switch housings and sliders included? The plate has some corrosion and could use a sanding, so I think this will be my next restoration job. It's either that or building an Alps 60%, but I'm really not convinced Alps are for me yet so I think I'll keep the board and try not to sink too much money into it. I have everything I need to clean it up so it's just a matter of finding the time.
Neat that you can open Alps while they're on the plate though! :))
That's what's keeping me going with this board :) By "bad Alps" do you mean ones that need cleaning, or is there some other way Alps go "bad"?Zenith board with Green SKCL Alps came in yesterday. Gotta say, so far I am vastly underwhelmed. I opened a couple switches and lubed them with Krytox 203, still scratchy. I like to hope it's because there's something in them that needs cleaning out (Alps seem very temperamental) because these have a LONG way to go before they're as smooth as either my vintage MX or Gateron Blacks. Love the form factor and build quality of the board for the most part, though the caps feel way thinner than they look.
I'm thinking I'll have to disassemble the entire thing and wash it all out, switch housings and sliders included? The plate has some corrosion and could use a sanding, so I think this will be my next restoration job. It's either that or building an Alps 60%, but I'm really not convinced Alps are for me yet so I think I'll keep the board and try not to sink too much money into it. I have everything I need to clean it up so it's just a matter of finding the time.
Neat that you can open Alps while they're on the plate though! :))
Bad Alps feel as bad as any other bad switch, but if they are in good condition I think they are the best of the switch types.
Zenith board with Green SKCL Alps came in yesterday. Gotta say, so far I am vastly underwhelmed. I opened a couple switches and lubed them with Krytox 203, still scratchy. I like to hope it's because there's something in them that needs cleaning out (Alps seem very temperamental) because these have a LONG way to go before they're as smooth as either my vintage MX or Gateron Blacks. Love the form factor and build quality of the board for the most part, though the caps feel way thinner than they look.
I'm thinking I'll have to disassemble the entire thing and wash it all out, switch housings and sliders included? The plate has some corrosion and could use a sanding, so I think this will be my next restoration job. It's either that or building an Alps 60%, but I'm really not convinced Alps are for me yet so I think I'll keep the board and try not to sink too much money into it. I have everything I need to clean it up so it's just a matter of finding the time.
Neat that you can open Alps while they're on the plate though! :))
Is this SKCL green alps?Does it have a hole for an LED? If yes then it's absolutely SKCL green.Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ0MFgxMDgw/z/kxIAAOSwFqJWhVZq/$_122.JPG?set_id=880000500F)
the seller said that the board have no click and feel similar with cherry mx brown
the board is ortek one and I'm in a deal with him can somone confirmed that this is a SKCL green alps?
Zenith board with Green SKCL Alps came in yesterday. Gotta say, so far I am vastly underwhelmed. I opened a couple switches and lubed them with Krytox 203, still scratchy.When brand new, green Alps are definitely not scratchy. Smoother than any linear MX switch you’ll ever find, except those with lube added by an enthusiast.
Waiting for the seller to get a clearer picture
Ortek mck 101FTNWaiting for the seller to get a clearer picture
Which Ortek is it if you don't mind me asking?
I have some sideways-Alps-mount relegendable keys listed in the free stuff thread if anyone is interested.Have any pictures of those?
Have any pictures of those?
However, just the click leaf doesn't explain why blue Alps feel nicer than white ones though, as they appear to be identical.Quite noticeably different spring, different click leaf, different contact assembly (this accounts for some of the sound difference), factory-applied lubricant, different switch housing, slightly different slider shape. There actually isn’t a single identical part, though they’re mostly pretty similar.
huft too bad the board is simplified green alpsShow Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA4OVgxMDgw/z/8iwAAOSwKtlWhi1B/$_122.JPG?set_id=880000500F)
The markings also show it's not a genuine Alps switch ;) . Besides, SKCM Green has a really weird shade of almost luminescent green.huft too bad the board is simplified green alpsShow Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA4OVgxMDgw/z/8iwAAOSwKtlWhi1B/$_122.JPG?set_id=880000500F)
Are you sure? Those look like the rare tactile green Alps to me.
Nevermind. I see the tabs now. Taking 6 days away from the keyboard game and already I'm getting rusty, haha.
Do you guys think 70 dollar for a board with blue alps is worth it? Trying to snatch my first blue alps :p
The markings also show it's not a genuine Alps switch ;) . Besides, SKCM Green has a really weird shade of almost luminescent green.huft too bad the board is simplified green alpsShow Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA4OVgxMDgw/z/8iwAAOSwKtlWhi1B/$_122.JPG?set_id=880000500F)
Are you sure? Those look like the rare tactile green Alps to me.
Nevermind. I see the tabs now. Taking 6 days away from the keyboard game and already I'm getting rusty, haha.
Do you guys think 70 dollar for a board with blue alps is worth it? Trying to snatch my first blue alps :p
YES. Buy it! NOW!
That's a fantastic price for blue Alps if you're buying online. Don't pass it up!
What board are you getting? Is it an 84 key or a 101?
I think a 101 I'm waiting for the pic. The one that sell this are fellow member here wanting to sell his board :p
Do you guys think 70 dollar for a board with blue alps is worth it? Trying to snatch my first blue alps :p
YES. Buy it! NOW!
That's a fantastic price for blue Alps if you're buying online. Don't pass it up!
What board are you getting? Is it an 84 key or a 101?
I think a 101 I'm waiting for the pic. The one that sell this are fellow member here wanting to sell his board :p
Lucky you!
Edit: What is happening, I don't deserve this!
Yep I got chicony 5161c with indeed a genuine complicated blue alps ;DShow Image(http://m.imgur.com/HPv615t.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QMjBeR1h.jpg)
Nah its the 5161c from 1987Yep I got chicony 5161c with indeed a genuine complicated blue alps ;DShow Image(http://m.imgur.com/HPv615t.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QMjBeR1h.jpg)
Looks to be in fantastic condition! Is that the 5161A model with NKRO? I haven't heard of the Chicony having a 5161C designation Owo
Congrats on finding one :thumb: I wish i could tell if mine is a 5161C or a 5161A but it has no labels :))use it as it is but when I do find kingsaver I would swap the switch to the custom :p
You going to use the board how it is or swap the switches into something else?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ausYzBO.gif)
Congrats on finding one :thumb: I wish i could tell if mine is a 5161C or a 5161A but it has no labels :))use it as it is but when I do find kingsaver I would swap the switch to the custom :p
You going to use the board how it is or swap the switches into something else?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ausYzBO.gif)
Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?yep
Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?yep
Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?The MCK-101 is an Ortek board, not a Chicony Oo .
Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?The MCK-101 is an Ortek board, not a Chicony Oo .
The OEMMAX is definitely not a Chicony 5161, it's a branded keyboard with Ortek as OEM. Many keyboards resemble the 5161 but they're certainly not all the same. As far as I know the OEMMAX is always blue Alps, too. No idea about rollover, though.Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?The MCK-101 is an Ortek board, not a Chicony Oo .
:eek: Hahaha it was the one from here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76927.msg1931900
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171994965970
Picture of front and back of the PCB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BykloKo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WncJ0u8.jpg)
Akimbo said it was a rebranded 5161 though
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58598.msg1339490#msg1339490
Do the Ortek versions have NKRO?
Oh yeah guys I want to ask what board that usually have skcl green? :thumb:Old Zeniths are generally your best bet, look for a Z-150 or ZKB-2 (both could also come with yellows though). They're very good looking boards, not that rare and also come with NKRO.
wow, nice catch bocahgundulThank you I've been searching for 1 for about 1 month and suddenly someone want to sells theirs haha now for the skcl green
The OEMMAX is definitely not a Chicony 5161, it's a branded keyboard with Ortek as OEM. Many keyboards resemble the 5161 but they're certainly not all the same. As far as I know the OEMMAX is always blue Alps, too. No idea about rollover, though.Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?The MCK-101 is an Ortek board, not a Chicony Oo .
:eek: Hahaha it was the one from here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76927.msg1931900
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171994965970
Picture of front and back of the PCB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BykloKo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WncJ0u8.jpg)
Akimbo said it was a rebranded 5161 though
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58598.msg1339490#msg1339490
Do the Ortek versions have NKRO?
Congrats! I'd keep it original. That looks like it's in fantastic condition and you won't find many like that in the next few years.Congrats on finding one :thumb: I wish i could tell if mine is a 5161C or a 5161A but it has no labels :))use it as it is but when I do find kingsaver I would swap the switch to the custom :p
You going to use the board how it is or swap the switches into something else?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ausYzBO.gif)
More than understandable, they look virtually identical xD . I think it's AT/XT compatible so a simple AT-to-PS/2 adapter should suffice if you have a PS/2 port which is fully compatible with NKRO, if you don't you'll need a converter :) . Most NKRO systems don't persist past 6KRO over USB as far as I know but it's certainly not impossible.The OEMMAX is definitely not a Chicony 5161, it's a branded keyboard with Ortek as OEM. Many keyboards resemble the 5161 but they're certainly not all the same. As far as I know the OEMMAX is always blue Alps, too. No idea about rollover, though.Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?The MCK-101 is an Ortek board, not a Chicony Oo .
:eek: Hahaha it was the one from here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76927.msg1931900
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171994965970
Picture of front and back of the PCB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BykloKo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WncJ0u8.jpg)
Akimbo said it was a rebranded 5161 though
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58598.msg1339490#msg1339490
Do the Ortek versions have NKRO?
Ah i understand, i thought it was a Chicony the whole time :)) Do you know which adapter i should buy to use to test if it supports NKRO?
Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?The MCK-101 is an Ortek board, not a Chicony Oo .
:eek: Hahaha it was the one from here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76927.msg1931900
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171994965970
Picture of front and back of the PCB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BykloKo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WncJ0u8.jpg)
Akimbo said it was a rebranded 5161 though
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58598.msg1339490#msg1339490
Do the Ortek versions have NKRO?
More than understandable, they look virtually identical xD . I think it's AT/XT compatible so a simple AT-to-PS/2 adapter should suffice if you have a PS/2 port which is fully compatible with NKRO, if you don't you'll need a converter :) . Most NKRO systems don't persist past 6KRO over USB as far as I know but it's certainly not impossible.The OEMMAX is definitely not a Chicony 5161, it's a branded keyboard with Ortek as OEM. Many keyboards resemble the 5161 but they're certainly not all the same. As far as I know the OEMMAX is always blue Alps, too. No idea about rollover, though.Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?The MCK-101 is an Ortek board, not a Chicony Oo .
:eek: Hahaha it was the one from here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76927.msg1931900
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171994965970
Picture of front and back of the PCB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BykloKo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WncJ0u8.jpg)
Akimbo said it was a rebranded 5161 though
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58598.msg1339490#msg1339490
Do the Ortek versions have NKRO?
Ah i understand, i thought it was a Chicony the whole time :)) Do you know which adapter i should buy to use to test if it supports NKRO?
Mine doesnt say 5161C or 5161A but it does say MCK-101-A 1987, that means its a 5161C right?The MCK-101 is an Ortek board, not a Chicony Oo .
:eek: Hahaha it was the one from here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76927.msg1931900
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171994965970
Picture of front and back of the PCB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BykloKo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WncJ0u8.jpg)
Akimbo said it was a rebranded 5161 though
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58598.msg1339490#msg1339490
Do the Ortek versions have NKRO?
Judging by the PCB, it looks like it doesn't use diodes in the keyboard matrix, so I'd say it likely does not have NKRO. I like the case design of the Ortek MCK-101. It's the only one of the bigfoot-style boards I know of that come very close to matching the exact look of the FAME TH-5539 I have, with some slight and significant differences.
One big one being the plastic bottom as opposed to the metal one on the FAME, and also the four indicator lights as opposed to the more conventional three lights that the FAME uses. The styling of the top bezel aside from that and from what I can make out from pictures show it to be very close to the FAME's. Both the Chicony 5161 and AT101 that I have are a bit different and have bezels that are less wide and thick as the FAME. I could always be wrong about the scale of the MCK, since pictures can be a bit deceiving, hehe.
The bottom of the MCK-101 is heavily reminiscent to the Dell AT101 in terms of screw mounting points and the tabs, though the AT-XT switch is obviously not found on the AT101!
I've been wanting one of these to have a plastic cousin to the FAME, but every time I see one, it goes for far too much than I'm willing to pay.
Pssst, hey Alps fans:Do you know something we don't???
JANUARY 2016 GEEK HACK DOUBLE SHOT GROUP BUY (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78489.0)
Just got done desoldering these blue alps ;DYummy blue alps waiting for mine soon :pShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/xkG2GUa.jpg)
I also soldered the diodes for my alps infinity today, soon these switches will be going in that.
Just got done desoldering these blue alps ;DMurder most foul and unnatural, my lord. >_>Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xkG2GUa.jpg)
I also soldered the diodes for my alps infinity today, soon these switches will be going in that.
Just got an FK-2001 yesterday for cheap and although I don't know which alps they are, it seems that they must be alps from everything I've read--and what's more important is that I like them. Alps appreciated!White Alps, and they are usually really nice. Focus keyboards are great! Hope you enjoy it.
Just got an FK-2001 yesterday for cheap and although I don't know which alps they are, it seems that they must be alps from everything I've read--and what's more important is that I like them. Alps appreciated!The FK-2001 and Chicony KB-5161 are probably the two main contestants for board with most different types of switch in it xD . If it's white and specifically says "Alps" on it, it's white Alps, otherwise it's almost certainly a clone (although some clones were really good too). The FK-2001 is one of the best-looking boards I know, certainly the best-looking one I own. Congrats on the find! :)
It's quite nice. Initially x and b both weren't working, mainly because I think the keyboard literally had been sitting in a storage unit for the last 10 years, but after a few repeated presses, both started working. :thumb: I basically rescued that board and I'm sure it will clean up really nice. The switches are scratchy so that's going to have to be remedied too, but I think cleaning will go a long way too.Just got an FK-2001 yesterday for cheap and although I don't know which alps they are, it seems that they must be alps from everything I've read--and what's more important is that I like them. Alps appreciated!White Alps, and they are usually really nice. Focus keyboards are great! Hope you enjoy it.
What's funny is that right before I used the Focus, I used the 5161 and an NMB space invaders--and all of these for the first time! It was really nice to feel all these very cool switches. Now coming back to an M, I see where the inspiration came from and even how they have certain qualities I even like better. :cool:Just got an FK-2001 yesterday for cheap and although I don't know which alps they are, it seems that they must be alps from everything I've read--and what's more important is that I like them. Alps appreciated!The FK-2001 and Chicony KB-5161 are probably the two main contestants for board with most different types of switch in it xD . If it's white and specifically says "Alps" on it, it's white Alps, otherwise it's almost certainly a clone (although some clones were really good too). The FK-2001 is one of the best-looking boards I know, certainly the best-looking one I own. Congrats on the find! :)
Just got an FK-2001 yesterday for cheap and although I don't know which alps they are, it seems that they must be alps from everything I've read--and what's more important is that I like them. Alps appreciated!If you post a picture of the outside of the board (or just describe it), we can guess pretty well.
So this is definitely going to be a cross post, I know it. Sorry for being AWOL by the way guys, just been keeping busy with other things. I'm trying not to focus TOO hard on keyboards right now to stave off wallet hack and try and reprioritize things in life. I won't ever leave this lovely scene though, but I might be a little more low key here and there. ^^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P5h97an.jpg)
MEGA THANKS to Bromono and Alienman82 for this. Well, for the Hebrew caps anyway. Got them off of a distant cousin of my FAME, the APC TH-5539, which is just soooo much less of a board than the FAME.
But the caps were in amazing condition. So thanks Bro for shipping me the board free of charge, and thanks to you Alienman82 for passing on your first dibs to me.
Finally, my FAME is complete, and it will probably always be my favorite vintage Alps board.
So this is definitely going to be a cross post, I know it. Sorry for being AWOL by the way guys, just been keeping busy with other things. I'm trying not to focus TOO hard on keyboards right now to stave off wallet hack and try and reprioritize things in life. I won't ever leave this lovely scene though, but I might be a little more low key here and there. ^^Is it double shot hebrew bro?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P5h97an.jpg)
MEGA THANKS to Bromono and Alienman82 for this. Well, for the Hebrew caps anyway. Got them off of a distant cousin of my FAME, the APC TH-5539, which is just soooo much less of a board than the FAME.
But the caps were in amazing condition. So thanks Bro for shipping me the board free of charge, and thanks to you Alienman82 for passing on your first dibs to me.
Finally, my FAME is complete, and it will probably always be my favorite vintage Alps board.
So this is definitely going to be a cross post, I know it. Sorry for being AWOL by the way guys, just been keeping busy with other things. I'm trying not to focus TOO hard on keyboards right now to stave off wallet hack and try and reprioritize things in life. I won't ever leave this lovely scene though, but I might be a little more low key here and there. ^^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P5h97an.jpg)
MEGA THANKS to Bromono and Alienman82 for this. Well, for the Hebrew caps anyway. Got them off of a distant cousin of my FAME, the APC TH-5539, which is just soooo much less of a board than the FAME.
But the caps were in amazing condition. So thanks Bro for shipping me the board free of charge, and thanks to you Alienman82 for passing on your first dibs to me.
Finally, my FAME is complete, and it will probably always be my favorite vintage Alps board.
Here's a twin of mine I found online. Surprisingly, mine is only slightly dirtier than this one:Just got an FK-2001 yesterday for cheap and although I don't know which alps they are, it seems that they must be alps from everything I've read--and what's more important is that I like them. Alps appreciated!If you post a picture of the outside of the board (or just describe it), we can guess pretty well.
Do you have one with the translucent plastic cover included?
http://imgur.com/ocpYhTuThat's quite the board to own! I think I just missed the Orion V2 gb when I joined GeekHack otherwise I'd have my own.
My new Duck Orion V2 with SKCM Blue ALPS... I suppose I appreciate ALPS too!
Is it double shot hebrew bro?
Woooow that looks awwsome!, never actually seen Hebrew caps before, excellent work man that definitely looks like a completed board :thumb: All the work put into that board certainly shows.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MIj6o.gif)
Question for any Alps folks who may have compared modified clicky orange Alps with blue alps? Do they feel close enough to be a poor man's blue alps?They’re definitely different. Different spring and noticeably different click leaf. Same “switchplate” assembly and housing though.
(Attachment Link)Awesome where do you make that plates?
I am in LOVE with my Apple //c Extended Memory keyboard. It uses Alps Amber switches, and I want to build it into a 60%-ish bluetooth keyboard, after I finish my Danger Zone 75%+1 custom keyboard. I have NEVER found a switch that feels better. I like Cherry/Gateron Blues... But WOW... Alps Ambers are a DREAM. If the Danger Zone keycap set were available as Alps compatible, I'd have ordered it that way, and splurged for a second Apple //c to salvage enough switches to use those. Alas... That keycap set requires MX compatible posts, and the //c is quite spendy these days. I'll be more than happy with a nice portable mechanical keyboard. I'll have the two push to toggle switches at the top act as power and a Number row/F row switch. I'll steal another Apple key so I can move [Esc] to where Reset is, and the [~`] key to where [Esc] is, so I have a proper modifier row. I can also steal an [Option] from another Apple keyboard with the same cap style. I know some would call it sacrilege, but I play Kerbal Space Program... [Control] is Throttle Down, and [Left Shift] is Throttle Up. I NEED to get [Caps Lock] and [Control] swapped, somehow. Maybe I'll just say screw it. [Caps Lock] is a toggle switch as well.
(Attachment Link)
My 75%+1 plates sitting on top of my Apple Extended Keyboard II. It's sooooooo yellow... I WANT an AEKII stuffed with Alps Ambers... Bestest switch ever! :p :thumb:
Amber Alps are a bit of an enigma, we still have no idea where they sit in the timeline. It's quite possible, but wholly unknown at the time, that they were Alps' first ever clicky switch. Have you tried blue Alps as well, and if so, how do they compare?I think SKCL predate SKCM a bit. That is, linear green Alps. Some of these have a black switchplate, same as tee mount Alps switches.
how do they compare?Amber switches are quite a bit stiffer than blue switches, stiffness similar to early clicky white Alps or even slightly stiffer, with a much snappier and louder click. Blue switches are elegant and understated, amber switches get up in your face.
SKCL Green were first yeah, but they're not clicky ;) . I've done a fair amount of research into the Alps timeline for several upcoming videos, including correspondence with Daniel B. Truth is we have a pretty good idea now, but rare/obscure switches like SKCM Amber and SKCM Cream are simply not well known enough to place properly into the main timeline yet. We need a lot more data before we can place them, and it's unlikely we'll ever get it.Amber Alps are a bit of an enigma, we still have no idea where they sit in the timeline. It's quite possible, but wholly unknown at the time, that they were Alps' first ever clicky switch. Have you tried blue Alps as well, and if so, how do they compare?I think SKCL predate SKCM a bit. That is, linear green Alps. Some of these have a black switchplate, same as tee mount Alps switches.
First SKCM switches were blue and "ivory". Someone dug up an early Alps catalog listing those two. Ivory = the tactile switch before orange Alps. The only source I know for them is certain Canon typewriters, and I’ve never seen them in especially pristine condition. Gray double-actuating linear switches are from the same era.
After that I’m not sure of the precise timeline, but among SKCM/SKCL switches with "tall" switchplate assemblies, there are brown and orange tactile switches, cream heavy linear switches, and amber clicky switches.
Perhaps amber switches were first intended for spacebars but nobody was buying them for that, so Apple bought a batch on the cheap?
Omron clicky switches came in amber and blue variants, roughly corresponding to amber and blue Alps, so presumably there was a point where Alps had both of those available. Soft clicky switches from Cherry, SMK, and NEC all also copied the blue color.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BlUKXmg.jpg)
Then later Alps switched to short switchplates, in a generation including white clicky, salmon (and later black) tactile, green tactile, yellow linear, and cream quiet tactile switches.Quotehow do they compare?Amber switches are quite a bit stiffer than blue switches, stiffness similar to early clicky white Alps or even slightly stiffer, with a much snappier and louder click. Blue switches are elegant and understated, amber switches get up in your face.
People who like white Alps, Matias clicky, Model F, amber Omrons, or Cherry MX green would probably like amber Alps. People who like blue Alps might or might not.
(Attachment Link)
I am in LOVE with my Apple //c Extended Memory keyboard. It uses Alps Amber switches, and I want to build it into a 60%-ish bluetooth keyboard, after I finish my Danger Zone 75%+1 custom keyboard. I have NEVER found a switch that feels better. I like Cherry/Gateron Blues... But WOW... Alps Ambers are a DREAM. If the Danger Zone keycap set were available as Alps compatible, I'd have ordered it that way, and splurged for a second Apple //c to salvage enough switches to use those. Alas... That keycap set requires MX compatible posts, and the //c is quite spendy these days. I'll be more than happy with a nice portable mechanical keyboard. I'll have the two push to toggle switches at the top act as power and a Number row/F row switch. I'll steal another Apple key so I can move [Esc] to where Reset is, and the [~`] key to where [Esc] is, so I have a proper modifier row. I can also steal an [Option] from another Apple keyboard with the same cap style. I know some would call it sacrilege, but I play Kerbal Space Program... [Control] is Throttle Down, and [Left Shift] is Throttle Up. I NEED to get [Caps Lock] and [Control] swapped, somehow. Maybe I'll just say screw it. [Caps Lock] is a toggle switch as well.
Amber Alps are a bit of an enigma, we still have no idea where they sit in the timeline. It's quite possible, but wholly unknown at the time, that they were Alps' first ever clicky switch. Have you tried blue Alps as well, and if so, how do they compare?
Awesome where do you make that plates?
never heard of alps amber at all bro is it that "good" and do you ever use alps blue switch?
Have you seen this? http://retroconnector.com/products/apple-ii/keyboard-shield-for-apple-iic-or-iic/
I made one on an experiment board and just used his firmware on a Teensy++, worked like a charm.
Amber switches are quite a bit stiffer than blue switches, stiffness similar to early clicky white Alps or even slightly stiffer, with a much snappier and louder click. Blue switches are elegant and understated, amber switches get up in your face.
People who like white Alps, Matias clicky, Model F, amber Omrons, or Cherry MX green would probably like amber Alps. People who like blue Alps might or might not.
Question for any Alps folks who may have compared modified clicky orange Alps with blue alps? Do they feel close enough to be a poor man's blue alps?They’re definitely different. Different spring and noticeably different click leaf. Same “switchplate” assembly and housing though.
I dunno about “poor man’s” – very good condition orange Alps switches are also very nice, and not all that easy to find.
I believe cream switches without the dampers have basically the same spring, click leaf, and switchplate as salmon switches. I haven’t done a detailed part comparison though, so there might be minor differences.
Question for any Alps folks who may have compared modified clicky orange Alps with blue alps? Do they feel close enough to be a poor man's blue alps?
I just installed some modified clicky orange Alps into a minitouch, pretty much exactly like CPTBadAss did: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71855.0, and it feels quite nice :D
It's tricky. Even Alps switches that appear to have exactly or almost exactly the same parts can sound and perform quite radically different. Nowhere near as much as we'd want is know about this family.I believe cream switches without the dampers have basically the same spring, click leaf, and switchplate as salmon switches. I haven’t done a detailed part comparison though, so there might be minor differences.
oh really? this is quite intriguing - if it were, true, however, i'd imagine that the price of cream damped switches would skyrocket because taking out the rubber dampeners is not especially challenging or tedious when considering the simplicity of taking apart an alps switch
It's tricky. Even Alps switches that appear to have exactly or almost exactly the same parts can sound and perform quite radically different. Nowhere near as much as we'd want is know about this family.I believe cream switches without the dampers have basically the same spring, click leaf, and switchplate as salmon switches. I haven’t done a detailed part comparison though, so there might be minor differences.
oh really? this is quite intriguing - if it were, true, however, i'd imagine that the price of cream damped switches would skyrocket because taking out the rubber dampeners is not especially challenging or tedious when considering the simplicity of taking apart an alps switch
Regardless, I don't think they would skyrocket. AEKs show up often enough, and are not really much more expensive than AEKIIs from what I've seen.
oh really? this is quite intriguing - if it were, true, however, i'd imagine that the price of cream damped switches would skyrocket because taking out the rubber dampeners is not especially challenging or tedious when considering the simplicity of taking apart an alps switchThe prices are more about availability and weird herd behavior, not switch feel.
Did you like the gateron better?Awesome where do you make that plates?
never heard of alps amber at all bro is it that "good" and do you ever use alps blue switch?
LeandreN ran a plate prototyper/group purchase back in... I think it was around October. Used the keyboard layout editor and plate builder online tools to create the layout and the files for the manufacturer. I've got a thread here showing all the details.Have you seen this? http://retroconnector.com/products/apple-ii/keyboard-shield-for-apple-iic-or-iic/
I made one on an experiment board and just used his firmware on a Teensy++, worked like a charm.
I saw that a while back. I'm an electronics guy, so I'll just save some cash and do my own wiring. Schematic to the keyboard is out there, but honestly, It can probably only manage 1-2KRO, as the matrix has no diodes. I'll cut traces and solder in diodes to each switch and take the matrix directly to a Teensy or equivalent controller.Amber switches are quite a bit stiffer than blue switches, stiffness similar to early clicky white Alps or even slightly stiffer, with a much snappier and louder click. Blue switches are elegant and understated, amber switches get up in your face.
People who like white Alps, Matias clicky, Model F, amber Omrons, or Cherry MX green would probably like amber Alps. People who like blue Alps might or might not.
Ambers are indeed "up in your face". They have a bold click that's pretty noticeable. I've never had a keyboard with Alps Blue switches. I have keyboards with other Alps (Other Apple keyboards), but those are not clicky switches. What I did do, was make a comparison video between my Danger Zone custom 75% + 1 keyboard project with Gateron Blue switches, and my Apple //c keyboard with the Alps Amber switches. The Alps Amber definitely take more force to press passed the click. I personally like it. I used some Shapeways C64 to MX stem adapters and threw some Commodore 64 keys on my Danger Zone keyboard (since the Danger Zone key caps won't show up till next month).
Did you like the gateron better?
So you like big phat click eh :))QuoteDid you like the gateron better?
The Gaterons are nice and they are certainly very smooth.
For that, I like them, but I absolutely LOVE the Alps Amber click.
The Gaterons feel downright weak in comparison.
Who could possibly resist the sound of clicky Alps? (http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp129/JonThePon/Smilies/I.png)So you like big phat click eh :))QuoteDid you like the gateron better?
The Gaterons are nice and they are certainly very smooth.
For that, I like them, but I absolutely LOVE the Alps Amber click.
The Gaterons feel downright weak in comparison.
****.....all this talk about Amber Alps. I gotta get my hands on some!
****.....all this talk about Amber Alps. I gotta get my hands on some!CPT you like big phat click too eh? ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
****.....all this talk about Amber Alps. I gotta get my hands on some!
Exactly what I thought! I bought some switches from a guy on eBay that is supposed to come from an Apple IIc so we'll see once it arrives. :))
Haha, thanks man! I thought I saw another Hebrew set, but it ended up being this exact same board, haha.I've seen 2 Hebrew Alps sets, one being your set, in multiple places :)). I regularly search ebay with location set to Israel for 'keyboard' and מקלדת. Mechanical boards are very scarce, in a live auction I've only seen Model Ms. However, there are quite a few Quantum branded rubber domes from that time period.
What about we use the amber alps for modifier and blue alps for alpha?
Haha, thanks man! I thought I saw another Hebrew set, but it ended up being this exact same board, haha.I've seen 2 Hebrew Alps sets, one being your set, in multiple places :)). I regularly search ebay with location set to Israel for 'keyboard' and מקלדת. Mechanical boards are very scarce, in a live auction I've only seen Model Ms. However, there are quite a few Quantum branded rubber domes from that time period.
I'm not sure if not many were made or if they just don't make it onto the interwebs. If anyone has anymore pics or info, please share.
If the hebrew printing is dyesubs it will be perfect :pWhat about we use the amber alps for modifier and blue alps for alpha?
This is not a bad idea actually.Haha, thanks man! I thought I saw another Hebrew set, but it ended up being this exact same board, haha.I've seen 2 Hebrew Alps sets, one being your set, in multiple places :)). I regularly search ebay with location set to Israel for 'keyboard' and מקלדת. Mechanical boards are very scarce, in a live auction I've only seen Model Ms. However, there are quite a few Quantum branded rubber domes from that time period.
I'm not sure if not many were made or if they just don't make it onto the interwebs. If anyone has anymore pics or info, please share.
Haha, I know! I am spreading the love for my FAME quite a bit, and then of course, there is the board that they came from, an APC Th-5539, which is a relative of the FAME itself. The board was ridiculously flimsy, but the caps were ace.
Hebrew does seem really hard to find OG, so that's why I'm staying off the FAME and just keeping it as a mantle piece. If I could find a way to display it, I would!
I have seen Hebrew Alps caps one other time on an F XT or F AT layout 83-84 key keyboard.
If the hebrew printing is dyesubs it will be perfect :pWhat about we use the amber alps for modifier and blue alps for alpha?
This is not a bad idea actually.Haha, thanks man! I thought I saw another Hebrew set, but it ended up being this exact same board, haha.I've seen 2 Hebrew Alps sets, one being your set, in multiple places :)). I regularly search ebay with location set to Israel for 'keyboard' and מקלדת. Mechanical boards are very scarce, in a live auction I've only seen Model Ms. However, there are quite a few Quantum branded rubber domes from that time period.
I'm not sure if not many were made or if they just don't make it onto the interwebs. If anyone has anymore pics or info, please share.
Haha, I know! I am spreading the love for my FAME quite a bit, and then of course, there is the board that they came from, an APC Th-5539, which is a relative of the FAME itself. The board was ridiculously flimsy, but the caps were ace.
Hebrew does seem really hard to find OG, so that's why I'm staying off the FAME and just keeping it as a mantle piece. If I could find a way to display it, I would!
I have seen Hebrew Alps caps one other time on an F XT or F AT layout 83-84 key keyboard.
All alps caps profile are OEM right? and nope I would not get those ugly AEK capsIf the hebrew printing is dyesubs it will be perfect :pWhat about we use the amber alps for modifier and blue alps for alpha?
This is not a bad idea actually.Haha, thanks man! I thought I saw another Hebrew set, but it ended up being this exact same board, haha.I've seen 2 Hebrew Alps sets, one being your set, in multiple places :)). I regularly search ebay with location set to Israel for 'keyboard' and מקלדת. Mechanical boards are very scarce, in a live auction I've only seen Model Ms. However, there are quite a few Quantum branded rubber domes from that time period.
I'm not sure if not many were made or if they just don't make it onto the interwebs. If anyone has anymore pics or info, please share.
Haha, I know! I am spreading the love for my FAME quite a bit, and then of course, there is the board that they came from, an APC Th-5539, which is a relative of the FAME itself. The board was ridiculously flimsy, but the caps were ace.
Hebrew does seem really hard to find OG, so that's why I'm staying off the FAME and just keeping it as a mantle piece. If I could find a way to display it, I would!
I have seen Hebrew Alps caps one other time on an F XT or F AT layout 83-84 key keyboard.
Oooh, yeah. You'd have to look to Acer keyboards, or the original Dells (very annoying to track down outside TaoBao, and then you have stupid shipping costs) or SGI granites for that, if you want standard profile that is. I like AEK caps, but I'm also kinda meh about them due to their odd profile. It's nice, but it doesn't fit the other vintages, literally and aesthetically.
These Tai Hao caps are nice though, mainly because the FAME has a short right shift, and so it fits (I also ANSI-modded mine and eliminated the BAE because I wanted it to be exactly what I wanted and the top of the BAE had no stabilization :P).
The only short shift PBT caps I know of for sure are from the IBM 5140. This one might also be PBT, judging by the case's yellowing. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-RB-2001-Clicky-Keyboard-BLUE-Sliders-XT-AT-5-Pin-RARE-MODEL-/181846396766?hash=item2a56e3cf5e:g:bf4AAOSwMmBV3MIY) Not gonna lie, I'd love the 1u key beside the short shift to say "Turbo," that would be sick.
I hear the pad printing on these is very resilient though, and hell, people really like GMK's alt legend keys like Cyrillic, and they are pad printed.
I do agree though, dye subbed PBT would be the best set up for this, and I would also be less scared of shining them. Would be really hard to find though. This one is scarce enough!
All alps caps profile are OEM right? and nope I would not get those ugly AEK capsReally I think it should be called “Alps cylindrical profile”, rather than “OEM profile”. It was copied by Tai Hao and others who were making Alps-compatible keycaps, and only later used for MX-compatible caps.
Hebrew does seem really hard to find OG, so that's why I'm staying off the FAME and just keeping it as a mantle piece. If I could find a way to display it, I would!I don't think I could resist using them, but would regret it later.
I have seen Hebrew Alps caps one other time on an F XT or F AT layout 83-84 key keyboard.I've seen more IBM's than anything else. I actually went with knock of IBM Hebrew caps from Unicomp. I'm glad I couldn't find a set of Imsto's or OG Alps and ended up with the Unicomp, because I'm really happy with this board, but wrong appreciation thread.
All alps caps profile are OEM right? and nope I would not get those ugly AEK caps
here is my humble alps64 with matias clickers. It needs a new case(need more angle because im not able to flip the space), hopefully something beefy :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MlSZEtG.jpg)
Apple IIGS keyboard:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xba9vZW.jpg)
(compare to various other profiles at https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=68550)
Hebrew does seem really hard to find OG, so that's why I'm staying off the FAME and just keeping it as a mantle piece. If I could find a way to display it, I would!I don't think I could resist using them, but would regret it later.I have seen Hebrew Alps caps one other time on an F XT or F AT layout 83-84 key keyboard.I've seen more IBM's than anything else. I actually went with knock of IBM Hebrew caps from Unicomp. I'm glad I couldn't find a set of Imsto's or OG Alps and ended up with the Unicomp, because I'm really happy with this board, but wrong appreciation thread.
True storey, while looking for Hebrew Alps kbds I found this Alps touch-tone keypad from a vendor in Israel.Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/XmQAAOxySy9STB~W/s-l1600.jpg)
Coincedentally, I needed a touchtone keypad for a project :cool:
Hey, I just tried cleaning a couple of my switchs (complicated whites) on my FK-2001, when I put them back together they are completely linear, does anyone know why this is? I put it back together perfectly.
Hey, I just tried cleaning a couple of my switchs (complicated whites) on my FK-2001, when I put them back together they are completely linear, does anyone know why this is? I put it back together perfectly.You might have bent the click leaf out of its normal shape, or put the switch back together incorrectly.
MoreIf the hebrew printing is dyesubs it will be perfect :pWhat about we use the amber alps for modifier and blue alps for alpha?
This is not a bad idea actually.Haha, thanks man! I thought I saw another Hebrew set, but it ended up being this exact same board, haha.I've seen 2 Hebrew Alps sets, one being your set, in multiple places :)). I regularly search ebay with location set to Israel for 'keyboard' and מקלדת. Mechanical boards are very scarce, in a live auction I've only seen Model Ms. However, there are quite a few Quantum branded rubber domes from that time period.
I'm not sure if not many were made or if they just don't make it onto the interwebs. If anyone has anymore pics or info, please share.
Haha, I know! I am spreading the love for my FAME quite a bit, and then of course, there is the board that they came from, an APC Th-5539, which is a relative of the FAME itself. The board was ridiculously flimsy, but the caps were ace.
Hebrew does seem really hard to find OG, so that's why I'm staying off the FAME and just keeping it as a mantle piece. If I could find a way to display it, I would!
I have seen Hebrew Alps caps one other time on an F XT or F AT layout 83-84 key keyboard.
Oooh, yeah. You'd have to look to Acer keyboards, or the original Dells (very annoying to track down outside TaoBao, and then you have stupid shipping costs) or SGI granites for that, if you want standard profile that is. I like AEK caps, but I'm also kinda meh about them due to their odd profile. It's nice, but it doesn't fit the other vintages, literally and aesthetically.
These Tai Hao caps are nice though, mainly because the FAME has a short right shift, and so it fits (I also ANSI-modded mine and eliminated the BAE because I wanted it to be exactly what I wanted and the top of the BAE had no stabilization :P).
The only short shift PBT caps I know of for sure are from the IBM 5140. This one might also be PBT, judging by the case's yellowing. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-RB-2001-Clicky-Keyboard-BLUE-Sliders-XT-AT-5-Pin-RARE-MODEL-/181846396766?hash=item2a56e3cf5e:g:bf4AAOSwMmBV3MIY) Not gonna lie, I'd love the 1u key beside the short shift to say "Turbo," that would be sick.
I hear the pad printing on these is very resilient though, and hell, people really like GMK's alt legend keys like Cyrillic, and they are pad printed.
I do agree though, dye subbed PBT would be the best set up for this, and I would also be less scared of shining them. Would be really hard to find though. This one is scarce enough!
More****.....all this talk about Amber Alps. I gotta get my hands on some!
Exactly what I thought! I bought some switches from a guy on eBay that is supposed to come from an Apple IIc so we'll see once it arrives. :))
I'm probably one of the few who does not like Amber Alps. I tried them on one of my hotswap Eagle builds not too long ago, and they just weren't for me. I ended up trading them for more SKCM blues.
Here's a typing video of them in the Hammer.
They were incredibly tactile, but I think the carbon fiber plate and really solid case had more to do with it, perhaps. I just didn't like the click sound compared to blues. It's not as refined, but it might be a bit louder, indeed. :)
I might have been influenced by the fact I only had 26-27 loose SKCM blues at the time and desperately wanted to fill by Hammer Alps board with them, but only had enough for the alphas. Using them on the same board together, with Ambers placed everywhere other than the alphas and mods (SKCL browns there), I really did not like them side by side against blues.
Can pit it in a head-to-head fight against your Taiwanese Acer 6311. The AEK II is definitely heavier though, so maybe not a fair fight.
The caps on western 6311s were thin dyesub ABS, are you sure those are PBT? XD
The Acer 6311 caps (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33155.msg1471182#msg1471182) I have are some of the nicest PBT dyesub caps I've ever used. I usually shy away from PBT too. Highly recommended.
The caps on western 6311s were thin dyesub ABS, are you sure those are PBT? XD
The Acer 6311 caps (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33155.msg1471182#msg1471182) I have are some of the nicest PBT dyesub caps I've ever used. I usually shy away from PBT too. Highly recommended.
CBA: did you see this thing (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78886)?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zt21NKc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TyCd1VK.jpg)
For $38 shipped I couldn’t pass it up; I haven’t seen many multilingual old Apple boards. It should arrive middle of next week.
Also, itzmeluigi bought:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nBn4Iew.jpg)
Hopefully he’ll take some more pictures when he gets it.
Shine is a really unreliable way to determine ABS tbh. Some ABS shines up quite slowly and some PBT shines up pretty quickly. It also depends on environmental conditions, inherent texture, plastic formulation, etc. You're way better off with an acetone test, it's the only real way to determine it.The caps on western 6311s were thin dyesub ABS, are you sure those are PBT? XD
The Acer 6311 caps (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33155.msg1471182#msg1471182) I have are some of the nicest PBT dyesub caps I've ever used. I usually shy away from PBT too. Highly recommended.
Pretty sure. I shine ABS caps up really fast. These don't have any shine on them yet.
Shine is a really unreliable way to determine ABS tbh. Some ABS shines up quite slowly and some PBT shines up pretty quickly. It also depends on environmental conditions, inherent texture, plastic formulation, etc. You're way better off with an acetone test, it's the only real way to determine it.The caps on western 6311s were thin dyesub ABS, are you sure those are PBT? XD
The Acer 6311 caps (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33155.msg1471182#msg1471182) I have are some of the nicest PBT dyesub caps I've ever used. I usually shy away from PBT too. Highly recommended.
Pretty sure. I shine ABS caps up really fast. These don't have any shine on them yet.
Seems like a lot of work to answer a question that won't change much. I'll just keep calling it dyesubbed PBT because there's no shine and it feels rough like all the other PBT caps I've used. I'm ok with being wrong :))
No, as far as I know this is still a mystery...Shine is a really unreliable way to determine ABS tbh. Some ABS shines up quite slowly and some PBT shines up pretty quickly. It also depends on environmental conditions, inherent texture, plastic formulation, etc. You're way better off with an acetone test, it's the only real way to determine it.The caps on western 6311s were thin dyesub ABS, are you sure those are PBT? XD
The Acer 6311 caps (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33155.msg1471182#msg1471182) I have are some of the nicest PBT dyesub caps I've ever used. I usually shy away from PBT too. Highly recommended.
Pretty sure. I shine ABS caps up really fast. These don't have any shine on them yet.
This might be slightly unrelated, but in my opinion, shine is almost a misnomer of sorts. At least when it comes to vintages. Most of the reason caps shine is due to a loss of texture, and so I'd imagine more surface area that your fingers can polish up upon brushing past them with an innumerable amount of keystrokes. Otherwise, in caps that are still mint, you might see some shine, but only on the raised areas of the textured surface that are actually making contact with your fingers.
Another case in point being that I can use a polishing cloth to remove shine from caps, only to have the shine come back in a few hours because the texture is already worn on the keys.
Both can shine up very quick if the texture is lost. I've got both PBT and ABS examples of this.
I agree, an Acetone test would be best.
Speaking of which, did the guy on Deskthority who ran that mini GB for those small Greek Nan Tan 6581 keyboards ever get back to anyone on whether or not the MCK-101FX he had was actually doubleshot PBT? chzel I think his name was.
Seems like a lot of work to answer a question that won't change much. I'll just keep calling it dyesubbed PBT because there's no shine and it feels rough like all the other PBT caps I've used. I'm ok with being wrong :))xD
Seems like a lot of work to answer a question that won't change much. I'll just keep calling it dyesubbed PBT because there's no shine and it feels rough like all the other PBT caps I've used. I'm ok with being wrong :))
Have people forgot that ABS floats in water and PBT sinks?Yup, and it doesn't work! :P My first ever youtube erratum was because I believed in that nonsense :p .
I mean... that's the oldest trick in the GH book.
It's still not completely sure. I did cut open an ABS cap from a 6312 once though and I showed a picture of how the printing was below-skin, strongly suggesting it was dye-sublimed.Seems like a lot of work to answer a question that won't change much. I'll just keep calling it dyesubbed PBT because there's no shine and it feels rough like all the other PBT caps I've used. I'm ok with being wrong :))
I was under the impression that only PBT could be dyesubbed am I misinformed?
I don’t think regular ABS can handle the dye-sublimation printing process, its melting temperature is too low. If you try to heat ABS to 400 °F or whatever, you’ll end up with a little plastic puddle.ABS is available in many mixtures, maybe it's something related to that. If I still had access to the DSC and TGA I cold find out easily xD .
Those dyesub Acer caps might not be PBT, but if not I’m not sure what plastic mix they are. Maybe something unique.
What about we use the amber alps for modifier and blue alps for alpha?
This is not a bad idea actually.Haha, thanks man! I thought I saw another Hebrew set, but it ended up being this exact same board, haha.I've seen 2 Hebrew Alps sets, one being your set, in multiple places :)). I regularly search ebay with location set to Israel for 'keyboard' and מקלדת. Mechanical boards are very scarce, in a live auction I've only seen Model Ms. However, there are quite a few Quantum branded rubber domes from that time period.
I'm not sure if not many were made or if they just don't make it onto the interwebs. If anyone has anymore pics or info, please share.
Haha, I know! I am spreading the love for my FAME quite a bit, and then of course, there is the board that they came from, an APC Th-5539, which is a relative of the FAME itself. The board was ridiculously flimsy, but the caps were ace.
Hebrew does seem really hard to find OG, so that's why I'm staying off the FAME and just keeping it as a mantle piece. If I could find a way to display it, I would!
I have seen Hebrew Alps caps one other time on an F XT or F AT layout 83-84 key keyboard.
What about we use the amber alps for modifier and blue alps for alpha?
This is not a bad idea actually.
A great idea actually.I don’t get it. For the most part the modifier keys are pressed by weaker fingers. There’s IMO no reason to use extra stiff switches for them.
I don’t think regular ABS can handle the dye-sublimation printing process, its melting temperature is too low. If you try to heat ABS to 400 °F or whatever, you’ll end up with a little plastic puddle.
Those dyesub Acer caps might not be PBT, but if not I’m not sure what plastic mix they are. Maybe something unique.
I am considering contacting Tai Hao about making secondary legends on their Alps keycaps (Chinese, Cyrillic, Hebrew, etc). Is this something that people would be interested in? Tai Hao already has the molds so it would be much cheaper than going with a company like SP.Didn't Tai-Hao require that all caps be the same language to reach MOQ? I'd support this regardless, but I'd prefer another manufacturer.
I am considering contacting Tai Hao about making secondary legends on their Alps keycaps (Chinese, Cyrillic, Hebrew, etc). Is this something that people would be interested in? Tai Hao already has the molds so it would be much cheaper than going with a company like SP.Didn't Tai-Hao require that all caps be the same language to reach MOQ? I'd support this regardless, but I'd prefer another manufacturer.
Approximately how much would double shot latin legend and pad printed second legend be at SP be?
I just wish that SP DCS caps would be thicker cause SP DCS feels like a cheap smaller profile tai hoa keycapsWhen badwrench got the first Alps set to SP, the full set for latin legends and blue mods was around $150, so DO would likely be even more than that for secondaries.I am considering contacting Tai Hao about making secondary legends on their Alps keycaps (Chinese, Cyrillic, Hebrew, etc). Is this something that people would be interested in? Tai Hao already has the molds so it would be much cheaper than going with a company like SP.Didn't Tai-Hao require that all caps be the same language to reach MOQ? I'd support this regardless, but I'd prefer another manufacturer.
Approximately how much would double shot latin legend and pad printed second legend be at SP be?
I am considering contacting Tai Hao about making secondary legends on their Alps keycaps (Chinese, Cyrillic, Hebrew, etc). Is this something that people would be interested in? Tai Hao already has the molds so it would be much cheaper than going with a company like SP.
I am considering contacting Tai Hao about making secondary legends on their Alps keycaps (Chinese, Cyrillic, Hebrew, etc). Is this something that people would be interested in? Tai Hao already has the molds so it would be much cheaper than going with a company like SP.I contacted them a few weeks ago, the MOQ is 500 at $15 per set. Additional languages would each need there own MOQ.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tC8MPLs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yxWRBpe.jpg)
Kinda dusty, and definitely not mint condition, but overall in pretty good shape. PBT in general is pretty hard wearing.
The red dye in particular is impressively crisp with very even color. The blue is slightly less even, but it’s not really too noticeable unless you put your eyeball a few inches away.
Anyone familiar with the stabilizers on Zeniths? This board is really feeling great to type on, but the spacebar stabilizer inserts look to be made of a different material than the other stabilized keys. It has a really jarring, high-pitched, super unpleasant sound when they make contact with the plate. The other stabilized keys make a nice "thock" that sounds like all of the unstabilized keys, but the spacebar sounds like it's just plain mounted wrong or something. I think it's actually the inserts that are the problem? I've double and triple checked the way the stab and inserts sit and the key is definitely mounted and setup correctly, unless there is some fine minutiae that I'm missing with Alps stabs. When the inserts make contact with the plate it sounds like death. Here's a pic of the different materials:I've had something similar on another board. Get one of those spongy square minicloths for in your kitchen. Cut out a small square (<1 cm^2) and cut down its thickness to 1 mm or less. Stick that under the stabs with some double sided tape, should fix it.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mWwNYQ7.jpg)
The brown insert on the right is in the caps lock key, sounds excellent. The black insert on the left is the spacebar one, and is unfortunately not interchangeable because of its length. It's seriously the only thing stopping me from making this my daily work board. Send halp. :confused:
Caps look like an AEK or AEKII (and the spacebar and mods look right for one of those), but I've only seen black Japanese characters on those.Yes, it’s an AEK II with Taiwanese legends.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tC8MPLs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yxWRBpe.jpg)
Kinda dusty, and definitely not mint condition, but overall in pretty good shape. PBT in general is pretty hard wearing.
The red dye in particular is impressively crisp with very even color. The blue is slightly less even, but it’s not really too noticeable unless you put your eyeball a few inches away.
On the back it looks like any AEK II. Made in USA, FCC ID BCGM3501, bar code *AP15401C%M0312TA*
(Usually the end bit of the bar code on these is just M3501 or M0312, without the TA. I think M0312)
Cream Alps switches, okay but not amazing condition.
On the back it looks like any AEK II. Made in USA, FCC ID BCGM3501, bar code *AP15401C%M0312TA*
(Usually the end bit of the bar code on these is just M3501 or M0312, without the TA. I think M0312)
Cream Alps switches, okay but not amazing condition. Some yellowing on spacebar and case. A fair bit of shine on the spacebar, and oddly quite a bit on the left command key. The rest of the keycaps are in good but not perfect condition.
Still made by Asians though :p .On the back it looks like any AEK II. Made in USA, FCC ID BCGM3501, bar code *AP15401C%M0312TA*
(Usually the end bit of the bar code on these is just M3501 or M0312, without the TA. I think M0312)
Cream Alps switches, okay but not amazing condition.
Apple hardware made in the US - rare these days!
Anyone familiar with the stabilizers on Zeniths? This board is really feeling great to type on, but the spacebar stabilizer inserts look to be made of a different material than the other stabilized keys. It has a really jarring, high-pitched, super unpleasant sound when they make contact with the plate. The other stabilized keys make a nice "thock" that sounds like all of the unstabilized keys, but the spacebar sounds like it's just plain mounted wrong or something. I think it's actually the inserts that are the problem? I've double and triple checked the way the stab and inserts sit and the key is definitely mounted and setup correctly, unless there is some fine minutiae that I'm missing with Alps stabs. When the inserts make contact with the plate it sounds like death. Here's a pic of the different materials:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mWwNYQ7.jpg)
The brown insert on the right is in the caps lock key, sounds excellent. The black insert on the left is the spacebar one, and is unfortunately not interchangeable because of its length. It's seriously the only thing stopping me from making this my daily work board. Send halp. :confused:
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tC8MPLs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yxWRBpe.jpg)
Kinda dusty, and definitely not mint condition, but overall in pretty good shape. PBT in general is pretty hard wearing.
The red dye in particular is impressively crisp with very even color. The blue is slightly less even, but it’s not really too noticeable unless you put your eyeball a few inches away.
So I've finally acquired one of my last dream boards, and this one really is a gem. Not only is it very seldomly seen, but I have never seen one in this mint of a condition. Not on Sandy's website, and not in the instances I've seen these on Deskthority and Geekhack (one with Mandolin, the other with Nuum, and before that, fossala). All of those except the ones on Sandy's site also had black cables and what I'd call more simplified FCC stickers and such. Also, some of those examples lacked the Caps Lock/Ctrl swapping swtch (weird quirk, I know) and rubberized flip out feet.
So this one is flawless, and the only Alps board I've gotten to date that needs no sort of restoration whatsoever. No rust, no scratches, and no yellowing and a the cable's coil are in perfect condition. Of course, now I don't want to type on it because of this. Lol. I retired my FAME because of its Hebrew caps, and now I don't want to use this because it's too clean. Sooo both of my metal backed boards are retired.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hGk0Cf1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9oudCQc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b8FLvoa.jpg)
That said, I also picked up a Leading Edge DC-3014 which needed some TLC on the plastics, though its plate was fine, and I don't mind using it! So it's definitely my daily driver in the vintage world now. Blue Alps, NKRO, made in Korea, and using my Dell AT101's PBT caps. Feels nice, man.
BEFOREShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9GhHZpI.jpg)
AFTERShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/5S2d6PV.jpg)
Use parts from the DC-2014 to fix things up--the cable and the logo mainly, since the logo on the DC-3014 started to fade after retrobrighting.
Yep! I hear that retrobrighting only lasts for around half a decade before the yellowing returns--I'm hoping not to see this in the boards I've restored, but it's one reason I don't mind using them either. Since the FK-555 has never been yellowed, I don't want to expose it. Plus, the case is amazingly texture. I don't want my palms rubbing up against it and shining it up. :P
Finally, a group shot of all my like-cased keyboards. All big-foot reminiscent. All but the AT101 have blue Alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LJuF0NG.jpg)
Clockwise, starting from the bottom.
Alps Electric Dell AT101
Tai Hao FAME TH-5539
Focus FK-555
Monterey K101
The AT101's cable is phenomenal. Just ridiculously long, even in the coils alone.
So I've finally acquired one of my last dream boards, and this one really is a gem. Not only is it very seldomly seen, but I have never seen one in this mint of a condition. Not on Sandy's website, and not in the instances I've seen these on Deskthority and Geekhack (one with Mandolin, the other with Nuum, and before that, fossala). All of those except the ones on Sandy's site also had black cables and what I'd call more simplified FCC stickers and such. Also, some of those examples lacked the Caps Lock/Ctrl swapping swtch (weird quirk, I know) and rubberized flip out feet.
So this one is flawless, and the only Alps board I've gotten to date that needs no sort of restoration whatsoever. No rust, no scratches, and no yellowing and a the cable's coil are in perfect condition. Of course, now I don't want to type on it because of this. Lol. I retired my FAME because of its Hebrew caps, and now I don't want to use this because it's too clean. Sooo both of my metal backed boards are retired.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hGk0Cf1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9oudCQc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b8FLvoa.jpg)
That said, I also picked up a Leading Edge DC-3014 which needed some TLC on the plastics, though its plate was fine, and I don't mind using it! So it's definitely my daily driver in the vintage world now. Blue Alps, NKRO, made in Korea, and using my Dell AT101's PBT caps. Feels nice, man.
BEFOREShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9GhHZpI.jpg)
AFTERShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/5S2d6PV.jpg)
Use parts from the DC-2014 to fix things up--the cable and the logo mainly, since the logo on the DC-3014 started to fade after retrobrighting.
Yep! I hear that retrobrighting only lasts for around half a decade before the yellowing returns--I'm hoping not to see this in the boards I've restored, but it's one reason I don't mind using them either. Since the FK-555 has never been yellowed, I don't want to expose it. Plus, the case is amazingly texture. I don't want my palms rubbing up against it and shining it up. :P
Finally, a group shot of all my like-cased keyboards. All big-foot reminiscent. All but the AT101 have blue Alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LJuF0NG.jpg)
Clockwise, starting from the bottom.
Alps Electric Dell AT101
Tai Hao FAME TH-5539
Focus FK-555
Monterey K101
The AT101's cable is phenomenal. Just ridiculously long, even in the coils alone.
Anyone familiar with the stabilizers on Zeniths? This board is really feeling great to type on, but the spacebar stabilizer inserts look to be made of a different material than the other stabilized keys. It has a really jarring, high-pitched, super unpleasant sound when they make contact with the plate. The other stabilized keys make a nice "thock" that sounds like all of the unstabilized keys, but the spacebar sounds like it's just plain mounted wrong or something. I think it's actually the inserts that are the problem? I've double and triple checked the way the stab and inserts sit and the key is definitely mounted and setup correctly, unless there is some fine minutiae that I'm missing with Alps stabs. When the inserts make contact with the plate it sounds like death. Here's a pic of the different materials:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mWwNYQ7.jpg)
The brown insert on the right is in the caps lock key, sounds excellent. The black insert on the left is the spacebar one, and is unfortunately not interchangeable because of its length. It's seriously the only thing stopping me from making this my daily work board. Send halp. :confused:
I would say this is usually a case of a rickety space bar and not so much the stab inserts. In my experience, the brown and black and even translucent white ones have no differences between them, no significant differences anyway. What I would do in your situation if I were you, is lube the wire and stabs. This usually quiets up the sound very well. It was like this on my Focus FK-555. I hated the space bar sound, but after I lubed the stabs (this one had plate-mounted Cherry stabs), it sounded fine again (lubing costar and Alps-style stabs really quiets them too, so I recommend this to everyone). It is true that many with Alps stabs all around use little rubber or foam pads to combat spacebar thwack, so you could look into that too if the lube does not help.
Yeah, space bar inserts are usually different on Alps boards, and they more so have, like, closed in slots where as normal stabs are open-ended. Combined with the cylindrical peg that also helps stabilize the space bar, and it makes putting the space bar on a real PITA.
Haha. Good luck nonetheless, man!
There's also some brief resistance when the stem meets the contact leaf as it bends out of the way which I find interesting, but that's also not noticeable during regular use.
And what is the difference between orange and salmon alps?
Hows brown tactile compared to orange alps?
And what is the difference between orange and salmon alps?
There is just too much type of alps!
To me, brown tactiles are a little hard to describe. The tactility has a rounded feel and the bottom out brings it home.Interesting. When you say "rounded", does it feel a little bit like SKCM neon green perhaps? Although I'd imagine with stronger tactility.
Are alps really that wobbly? Doesn't have a keycaps to compare the wobblinessCompared to my MX Reds, my complicated white alps do wobble more, but not a huge amount.
When you say "rounded", does [brown Alps] feel a little bit like SKCM neon green perhaps? Although I'd imagine with stronger tactility.Yes, they are quite similar, but the brown ones are substantially stiffer with bigger drop in force after the tactile leaf gives way. This makes it hard to avoid bottoming out pretty hard, and I find them tiring to type on.
They're a very interesting switch design. Although Alps gave it up as soon as they could, Omron stuck with it. It's interesting to see how the two families diverged from a common ancestor.Can you explain what you mean?
To me, brown tactiles are a little hard to describe. The tactility has a rounded feel and the bottom out brings it home.Interesting. When you say "rounded", does it feel a little bit like SKCM neon green perhaps? Although I'd imagine with stronger tactility.
They're a very interesting switch design. Although Alps gave it up as soon as they could, Omron stuck with it. It's interesting to see how the two families diverged from a common ancestor.
I'd love to try out brown Alps someday. And amber ones. I've had so many types already, but it's like a Hydra, the more you tick off the list, the more keep popping up for you to try! xD
Are alps really that wobbly? Doesn't have a keycaps to compare the wobbliness
I'm quite upset I messed up my FK-2001, still works but I would rather use my completely functional Keycool with MX Reds than a messed up FK-2001. It's all my fault, live and learn I guess. At least I got to try a new switch type.I looked at your post history, and it seems you disassembled one of the switches, cleaned it, and put it back, and now it doesn’t click?
Thank you broAre alps really that wobbly? Doesn't have a keycaps to compare the wobbliness
Linear alps switches with long contact plates like SKCL green and SKCL brown are less wobbly, I think, because of their symmetrical slider design. It's almost silly to imagine that this contributes to less wobble, but compare to non-symmetrical sliders like on blue and orange Alps, the greens and browns are very stable.
I wouldn't say that Alps are more wobbly than MX though, but my MX memory might be fuzzy.
I'm quite upset I messed up my FK-2001, still works but I would rather use my completely functional Keycool with MX Reds than a messed up FK-2001. It's all my fault, live and learn I guess. At least I got to try a new switch type.I looked at your post history, and it seems you disassembled one of the switches, cleaned it, and put it back, and now it doesn’t click?
The way a clicky Alps switch works is that when you press down on the slider, the corner of the click leaf gets bent toward the slider, and then when the slider gets past the little legs, the click leaf snaps back against the plastic housing, causing the sound.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/upQWT.gif)
(This gif exaggerates the amount of twisting the slider will do, because the little groove that it usually tracks has been cut away from the near side. It also doesn’t show the switch being pressed all the way.)
If it’s not clicking, that means either the switch isn’t assembled correctly (e.g. the click leaf isn’t seated properly, the slider is flipped backwards, or similar), something else is inside the switch preventing the leaf from bending away from the wall or snapping back, or the click leaf is bent out of its correct shape.
How are you reassembling the switch? I find that the easiest way when the bottom of the switch is soldered down is to put all the loose parts (slider, click leaf, spring) into the top housing, with the slider pushed in so that the click leaf stays in snugly, flip the whole keyboard upside down, carefully get the spring aligned with the central peg, and then snap the top housing back into the bottom housing with the slider held in with my finger.
(But actually I reassemble these quite a bit faster when they’re not soldered down at all)
If the switch is assembled properly but still not clicking, that means either there’s something else inside there, or the click leaf has been bent out of shape. If you disassemble two switches you can compare their click leaves to see if there’s any obvious difference. If you’re careful you can make subtle changes to the feel of a switch by slightly bending the click leaf one way or another.
So I've finally acquired one of my last dream boards, and this one really is a gem. Not only is it very seldomly seen, but I have never seen one in this mint of a condition. Not on Sandy's website, and not in the instances I've seen these on Deskthority and Geekhack (one with Mandolin, the other with Nuum, and before that, fossala). All of those except the ones on Sandy's site also had black cables and what I'd call more simplified FCC stickers and such. Also, some of those examples lacked the Caps Lock/Ctrl swapping swtch (weird quirk, I know) and rubberized flip out feet.
So this one is flawless, and the only Alps board I've gotten to date that needs no sort of restoration whatsoever. No rust, no scratches, and no yellowing and a the cable's coil are in perfect condition. Of course, now I don't want to type on it because of this. Lol. I retired my FAME because of its Hebrew caps, and now I don't want to use this because it's too clean. Sooo both of my metal backed boards are retired.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hGk0Cf1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9oudCQc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b8FLvoa.jpg)
That said, I also picked up a Leading Edge DC-3014 which needed some TLC on the plastics, though its plate was fine, and I don't mind using it! So it's definitely my daily driver in the vintage world now. Blue Alps, NKRO, made in Korea, and using my Dell AT101's PBT caps. Feels nice, man.
BEFOREShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9GhHZpI.jpg)
AFTERShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/5S2d6PV.jpg)
Use parts from the DC-2014 to fix things up--the cable and the logo mainly, since the logo on the DC-3014 started to fade after retrobrighting.
Yep! I hear that retrobrighting only lasts for around half a decade before the yellowing returns--I'm hoping not to see this in the boards I've restored, but it's one reason I don't mind using them either. Since the FK-555 has never been yellowed, I don't want to expose it. Plus, the case is amazingly texture. I don't want my palms rubbing up against it and shining it up. :P
Finally, a group shot of all my like-cased keyboards. All big-foot reminiscent. All but the AT101 have blue Alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LJuF0NG.jpg)
Clockwise, starting from the bottom.
Alps Electric Dell AT101
Tai Hao FAME TH-5539
Focus FK-555
Monterey K101
The AT101's cable is phenomenal. Just ridiculously long, even in the coils alone.
Haha, I wish I had a Xerox like that! No, I just have loose SKCM neon green (got a whole bunch of switches recently). No SKCM brown though xD .To me, brown tactiles are a little hard to describe. The tactility has a rounded feel and the bottom out brings it home.Interesting. When you say "rounded", does it feel a little bit like SKCM neon green perhaps? Although I'd imagine with stronger tactility.
They're a very interesting switch design. Although Alps gave it up as soon as they could, Omron stuck with it. It's interesting to see how the two families diverged from a common ancestor.
I'd love to try out brown Alps someday. And amber ones. I've had so many types already, but it's like a Hydra, the more you tick off the list, the more keep popping up for you to try! xD
Sounds like you've been been having some fun, Chyros! Do you have a Xerox you're wanting to tell us about? Yep, the brown tactiles are related to the SKCM green switches and the tactile design is very similar, though simplified in the SKCM green switch (leaf spring instead of the whole dummy plate assembly). I'd say that SKCM green is to SKCM brown, what SKCM Salmon is to SKCM orange, as they both have short contact plates.
Yes, it definitely has a more solid feel, but really, I only feel it strongly on the bottom out. Without that, the tactility is really just roundeed out and subtle. I don't know why the bottom out seems to create a greater sense of tactility on these, but I can imagine that's why they're always compared to Topre, because of that and the rounded tactility.
Are you saying that Omron used a dummy plate for tactility too? I haven't ever looked into them!
You're so right when it comes to the endless varieties of Alps to try, man. It's hard to catch 'em all! Amber Alps really remind me of how tactile brown Alps feel. It also had a click leaf that was unique from the others I've seen, but it wasn't so much in the same shape as SKCM green or brown. It didn't have a bottom lip and the two forks, if you will, were bent at a sharp right angle compared to other leaves.
It DID feel similar to the feel of switches I've played with whose tactile leaves I bent a bit too sharply, actually.
Will a Alps switch fit in a MX board or is that to broad of a question? Sorry for the newbie question I have never used Alps.
Will a Alps switch fit in a MX board or is that to broad of a question? Sorry for the newbie question I have never used Alps.
There are PCBs that were made to specifically accomodate both, both vintage and current, but discounting these specialised plates they are not compatible, no.
It's cool if someone could make a plate that support both switchesWill a Alps switch fit in a MX board or is that to broad of a question? Sorry for the newbie question I have never used Alps.There are PCBs that were made to specifically accomodate both, both vintage and current, but discounting these specialised plates they are not compatible, no.
Yep, in terms of vintages, my FAME TH-5539 keyboard and NTC 6151N keyboards both support MX, obviously not when it comes to the plate, but the PCB supports plate-mounted MX switches.
In terms of modern, my Duck Eagle PCBs support MX and Alps, plate or PCB mounted on the MX side, and there's also the Infinity keyboard which supports both as does its cousin, the Infinity ErgoDox.
Leeku made a fullsize MXAlps PCB for Cherry 3000 boards, I think? My OG Cherry knowledge is kind of limited, but I know he made one that supported both and it wasn't the Alphas PCB.
I'm thinking the new VE.A will have both MX and Alps in the same board, but I could be wrong.
I like calling boards that support Cherry MX and Alps SKCM/SKCL "MXAlps" boards, just FYI. It's got a nice ring to it~
It's been done. And this has the added benefit of allowing MX switch tops to be removed. But it's not done often.It's cool if someone could make a plate that support both switchesWill a Alps switch fit in a MX board or is that to broad of a question? Sorry for the newbie question I have never used Alps.There are PCBs that were made to specifically accomodate both, both vintage and current, but discounting these specialised plates they are not compatible, no.
Yep, in terms of vintages, my FAME TH-5539 keyboard and NTC 6151N keyboards both support MX, obviously not when it comes to the plate, but the PCB supports plate-mounted MX switches.
In terms of modern, my Duck Eagle PCBs support MX and Alps, plate or PCB mounted on the MX side, and there's also the Infinity keyboard which supports both as does its cousin, the Infinity ErgoDox.
Leeku made a fullsize MXAlps PCB for Cherry 3000 boards, I think? My OG Cherry knowledge is kind of limited, but I know he made one that supported both and it wasn't the Alphas PCB.
I'm thinking the new VE.A will have both MX and Alps in the same board, but I could be wrong.
I like calling boards that support Cherry MX and Alps SKCM/SKCL "MXAlps" boards, just FYI. It's got a nice ring to it~
Now thats cool! We need a GB for case and this AlpsMX pcb and plate and that would be awesomeIt's been done. And this has the added benefit of allowing MX switch tops to be removed. But it's not done often.It's cool if someone could make a plate that support both switchesWill a Alps switch fit in a MX board or is that to broad of a question? Sorry for the newbie question I have never used Alps.There are PCBs that were made to specifically accomodate both, both vintage and current, but discounting these specialised plates they are not compatible, no.
Yep, in terms of vintages, my FAME TH-5539 keyboard and NTC 6151N keyboards both support MX, obviously not when it comes to the plate, but the PCB supports plate-mounted MX switches.
In terms of modern, my Duck Eagle PCBs support MX and Alps, plate or PCB mounted on the MX side, and there's also the Infinity keyboard which supports both as does its cousin, the Infinity ErgoDox.
Leeku made a fullsize MXAlps PCB for Cherry 3000 boards, I think? My OG Cherry knowledge is kind of limited, but I know he made one that supported both and it wasn't the Alphas PCB.
I'm thinking the new VE.A will have both MX and Alps in the same board, but I could be wrong.
I like calling boards that support Cherry MX and Alps SKCM/SKCL "MXAlps" boards, just FYI. It's got a nice ring to it~
Now thats cool! We need a GB for case and this AlpsMX pcb and plate and that would be awesomeIt's been done. And this has the added benefit of allowing MX switch tops to be removed. But it's not done often.It's cool if someone could make a plate that support both switchesWill a Alps switch fit in a MX board or is that to broad of a question? Sorry for the newbie question I have never used Alps.There are PCBs that were made to specifically accomodate both, both vintage and current, but discounting these specialised plates they are not compatible, no.
Yep, in terms of vintages, my FAME TH-5539 keyboard and NTC 6151N keyboards both support MX, obviously not when it comes to the plate, but the PCB supports plate-mounted MX switches.
In terms of modern, my Duck Eagle PCBs support MX and Alps, plate or PCB mounted on the MX side, and there's also the Infinity keyboard which supports both as does its cousin, the Infinity ErgoDox.
Leeku made a fullsize MXAlps PCB for Cherry 3000 boards, I think? My OG Cherry knowledge is kind of limited, but I know he made one that supported both and it wasn't the Alphas PCB.
I'm thinking the new VE.A will have both MX and Alps in the same board, but I could be wrong.
I like calling boards that support Cherry MX and Alps SKCM/SKCL "MXAlps" boards, just FYI. It's got a nice ring to it~
It's been done. And this has the added benefit of allowing MX switch tops to be removed. But it's not done often.
[Just a side note: you guys don’t need to quote the full context of 4–5 messages that everyone can already see immediately above in order to make a short response. Or if you want you can use a 'more' tag if you really think a large amount of context is necessary. :-) For example:Thank you for the suggestion bro I will use the trick :thumb:More]Now thats cool! We need a GB for case and this AlpsMX pcb and plate and that would be awesomeIt's been done. And this has the added benefit of allowing MX switch tops to be removed. But it's not done often.It's cool if someone could make a plate that support both switchesWill a Alps switch fit in a MX board or is that to broad of a question? Sorry for the newbie question I have never used Alps.There are PCBs that were made to specifically accomodate both, both vintage and current, but discounting these specialised plates they are not compatible, no.
Yep, in terms of vintages, my FAME TH-5539 keyboard and NTC 6151N keyboards both support MX, obviously not when it comes to the plate, but the PCB supports plate-mounted MX switches.
In terms of modern, my Duck Eagle PCBs support MX and Alps, plate or PCB mounted on the MX side, and there's also the Infinity keyboard which supports both as does its cousin, the Infinity ErgoDox.
Leeku made a fullsize MXAlps PCB for Cherry 3000 boards, I think? My OG Cherry knowledge is kind of limited, but I know he made one that supported both and it wasn't the Alphas PCB.
I'm thinking the new VE.A will have both MX and Alps in the same board, but I could be wrong.
I like calling boards that support Cherry MX and Alps SKCM/SKCL "MXAlps" boards, just FYI. It's got a nice ring to it~
Alps/MX plates work great, but I’d recommend only using them with a PCB that you can firmly solder switches down to. For hand wiring, go for the standard square / rectangular switch holes.
Also, the upcoming JD45 and revised JD40 PCBs will support both Alps and MX switches. :)Yay, Can you make some TKL or 60% board bro? :p
I've determined I don't really like Complicated White ALPS that much, [...] I've been told Matias switches are quite smoother and a bit lighterClicky Matias switches and white Alps switches are pretty similar.
I agree. I didn't realize how similar they were until I built my Alps Party HHKB with Matias Clicks.I've determined I don't really like Complicated White ALPS that much, [...] I've been told Matias switches are quite smoother and a bit lighterClicky Matias switches and white Alps switches are pretty similar.
I mod an orange alps into clicky and I ****in love the switch even better now
Alps are all different, and dirt, wear, etc, can all effect them.I've never heard of anyone equating whites and blues. I mean, other than the fact that they both click. But I will say I have noticed a difference among whites on different boards, so maybe some of them are closer to blues than others.
I am the original owner of an old Dell from the late-1990s with blacks and it still feels fine.
Whites seem stiff to me, but "Mr Northgate" Bob Tibbetts thinks that white and blue are pretty much the same and that lust for blue is pure hype ....
Sure thing bro!I mod an orange alps into clicky and I ****in love the switch even better now
I have always resisted opening up Alps switches but I have a least a keyboard's worth of orange that I have been thinking of modding like that.
I would love to have a source for something equal to or better than blues, since they are so expensive and are not always in perfect condition, either.
Would you mind pointing me to the instructions for that mod? This thread has gotten to be a wall of TL;DR
I mod an orange alps into clicky and I ****in love the switch even better now
I have always resisted opening up Alps switches but I have a least a keyboard's worth of orange that I have been thinking of modding like that.
I would love to have a source for something equal to or better than blues, since they are so expensive and are not always in perfect condition, either.
Would you mind pointing me to the instructions for that mod? This thread has gotten to be a wall of TL;DR
Great, now I've got to decide whether I want to do this on my next orange Alps build. Maybe I'll do one or two and try to compare them to my blues before committing to the whole batch.I mod an orange alps into clicky and I ****in love the switch even better now
I have always resisted opening up Alps switches but I have a least a keyboard's worth of orange that I have been thinking of modding like that.
I would love to have a source for something equal to or better than blues, since they are so expensive and are not always in perfect condition, either.
Would you mind pointing me to the instructions for that mod? This thread has gotten to be a wall of TL;DR
Alps modding is a joy! No need to feel shy about it. Pop those puppies open! I've not click modded my oranges, but I do hear that they're quite good. :D
They are really good!I mod an orange alps into clicky and I ****in love the switch even better now
I have always resisted opening up Alps switches but I have a least a keyboard's worth of orange that I have been thinking of modding like that.
I would love to have a source for something equal to or better than blues, since they are so expensive and are not always in perfect condition, either.
Would you mind pointing me to the instructions for that mod? This thread has gotten to be a wall of TL;DR
Alps modding is a joy! No need to feel shy about it. Pop those puppies open! I've not click modded my oranges, but I do hear that they're quite good. :D
In fact I prefer my NeXT with Blacks as opposed to several boards with Whites.Late or early black Alps? The difference is night and day, I've found.
In fact I prefer my NeXT with Blacks as opposed to several boards with Whites.
That's not an Alps switch though ;) .In fact I prefer my NeXT with Blacks as opposed to several boards with Whites.
Avatar doesn't check out.
Avatar doesn't check out.Yours doesn't either. (http://www.criminaljustice.ny.gov/SomsSUBDirectory/offenderDetails.jsp?offenderid=20653)
Wow. I had no idea.Avatar doesn't check out.Yours doesn't either. (http://www.criminaljustice.ny.gov/SomsSUBDirectory/offenderDetails.jsp?offenderid=20653)
Now I'm thinking about changing my avatar. Thanks a lot...
Powerglove, not even once.Wow. I had no idea.Avatar doesn't check out.Yours doesn't either. (http://www.criminaljustice.ny.gov/SomsSUBDirectory/offenderDetails.jsp?offenderid=20653)
Now I'm thinking about changing my avatar. Thanks a lot...
Have any of you beautiful people used any fake Alps?
I got a crappy Levetron keyboard from a friend to disassemble and learn soldering basics.
This board has these specific knock offs. https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series)
Ive found that the clickyness and force to actuate is far from consistent.
I have opened a few, bent the leafs, reassembled, and found a happy place.
Are these worth modifying each individual leaf? Will they slowly return to their weak and inconsistent levels? or was the wierdness just from bad manufacturing?
Have any of you beautiful people used any fake Alps?
I got a crappy Levetron keyboard from a friend to disassemble and learn soldering basics.
This board has these specific knock offs. https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series)
Ive found that the clickyness and force to actuate is far from consistent.
I have opened a few, bent the leafs, reassembled, and found a happy place.
Are these worth modifying each individual leaf? Will they slowly return to their weak and inconsistent levels? or was the wierdness just from bad manufacturing?
The board I got my Hebrew caps for my FAME (also a Tai Hao board but so much better built) was a Tai Hao APC TH-5539 and was flimsy as all hell with a plastic plate and a deceptive black back that looked metallic to me, in pictures, but turned out to just be plastic. The switches don't seem bad, but I just am quite bleh about that board because of its quality.
Have any of you beautiful people used any fake Alps? [...] Ive found that the clickyness and force to actuate is far from consistent. ¶ I have opened a few, bent the leafs, reassembled, and found a happy place. ¶ Are these worth modifying each individual leaf? Will they slowly return to their weak and inconsistent levels?
Have any of you beautiful people used any fake Alps?
I got a crappy Levetron keyboard from a friend to disassemble and learn soldering basics.
This board has these specific knock offs. https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series)
Ive found that the clickyness and force to actuate is far from consistent.
I have opened a few, bent the leafs, reassembled, and found a happy place.
Are these worth modifying each individual leaf? Will they slowly return to their weak and inconsistent levels? or was the wierdness just from bad manufacturing?
The board I got my Hebrew caps for my FAME (also a Tai Hao board but so much better built) was a Tai Hao APC TH-5539 and was flimsy as all hell with a plastic plate and a deceptive black back that looked metallic to me, in pictures, but turned out to just be plastic. The switches don't seem bad, but I just am quite bleh about that board because of its quality.
That's the thing. the board they came from was complete trash. the plastic plate, the crap case, the key caps, the PCB, the stabilizers were all garbage.
But looking at the switches, other than not being the smoothest or perfectly built, the switches don't seem that bad once I fix them.
I just hope its not in vain and they stay this way after some use
Have any of you beautiful people used any fake Alps? [...] Ive found that the clickyness and force to actuate is far from consistent. ¶ I have opened a few, bent the leafs, reassembled, and found a happy place. ¶ Are these worth modifying each individual leaf? Will they slowly return to their weak and inconsistent levels?
What do you mean by “worth”? If you like them, go for it! They shouldn’t change rapidly. On the other hand, I find these switches are often not the most reliable electrically. The contact mechanism is simple, and the cheaper of these types of switches can corrode and your signal will get bouncy.
If you overall like the general idea, but you want something more consistent, a bit more solid feeling, and more reliable, you could get a cheap early white Alps board (often can find them in good condition for ~$30 shipped on eBay, or cheaper if you visit an e-cycler or similar).
Whoa, what? I was watching that one and expecting it to go for like $50–70. It is a really nice keyboard, but two bidders throwing $500 at it seems quite extreme.
expecting it to go for like $50–70. It is a really nice keyboard, but two bidders throwing $500 at it seems quite extreme.
Have any of you beautiful people used any fake Alps?I've tried Type OA2, Type T4, Type T5, and Xiang Min KSB-C, as well as Matiases (only the first three in a board). From my experience, the clones with the copper leaves are considerably inferior to those that use the full-size steel leaves; Type OA2s in particular do relatively well and aren't bad switches. The large contacts seem to feel better than simplified-style ones, too (which have a second tactile point).
I got a crappy Levetron keyboard from a friend to disassemble and learn soldering basics.
This board has these specific knock offs. https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231821687788?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
someone must have really wanted orange alps really badly lol.
It uses 2 individual contact plates and 1 copper leafHave any of you beautiful people used any fake Alps?I've tried Type OA2, Type T4, Type T5, and Xiang Min KSB-C, as well as Matiases (only the first three in a board). From my experience, the clones with the copper leaves are considerably inferior to those that use the full-size steel leaves; Type OA2s in particular do relatively well and aren't bad switches. The large contacts seem to feel better than simplified-style ones, too (which have a second tactile point).
I got a crappy Levetron keyboard from a friend to disassemble and learn soldering basics.
This board has these specific knock offs. https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_APC_series)
I also recently got some of the red-and-black, mysterious LARB01 (https://deskthority.net/wiki/USw_LARB01) switches. They have a bizarre feel where any and all resistance seem to completely vanish after the tactile bump, almost as if there isn't a coil spring in the board at all. Although I don't think these have been found in any keyboard at all, I'd very much like to try these out properly sometime.
Do your switches have the copper leaf or the steel type?
I would have said that $50-$70 was the going rate for a nice not-too-yellowed one with low serial number and sure orange. And perhaps twice that for new-in-box.This is “I doubt it was ever used”, loose in “not the original” box, with no cord. If it was really NIB I also wouldn’t be surprised at $150.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231821687788?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
someone must have really wanted orange alps really badly lol.
Oh my goodness.
How well do the alps to mx adapter work? Do they make the key stick up any higher or wobbly?
I messaged the seller asking if the winner has paid yet and got this response:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HSLZs7f.jpg)
Very curious to see if the winner pays.
This reminds me of that AT101W that went for, what, >$130 or something? xD
I messaged the seller asking if the winner has paid yet and got this response:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HSLZs7f.jpg)
Very curious to see if the winner pays.
Not to get too off topic, but on the subject of Alps appreciation, did you manage to nab that black FK-2001, Chyros? D:Urgh, no, unfortunately D: . It didn't even go for that much in the end, ironically enough. Shame, probably the best-looking keyboard I've ever seen :( .
LOL $510? I don't even pay $40 for one hahahaI think I bought two for $40 in a GB on here a while back? No more than $50 IIRC.
You might need to open an offshore accountLOL $510? I don't even pay $40 for one hahahaI think I bought two for $40 in a GB on here a while back? No more than $50 IIRC.
Can someone contact the buyer and let them know I have a red OG Cherry ESC key I'd like to sell them...
I like orange alps but I hate blue alps am I normal? :))No :P .
Can you tell me what a good converter for this chicony 5161?I like orange alps but I hate blue alps am I normal? :))No :P .
But maybe you like lighter switches ;) .
If you have a PS/2 port a cheap, simple AT-to-PS/2 adapter should work fine, if not you might want to invest in a proper converter, especially if you plan on getting more old boards. Orihalcon's are not cheap, but they're very good.Can you tell me what a good converter for this chicony 5161?I like orange alps but I hate blue alps am I normal? :))No :P .
But maybe you like lighter switches ;) .
it have xt/at cable
I don't know man but the more I type on it it feels better :eek:
you might want to invest in a proper converter, especially if you plan on getting more old boards.
This is still on my to-do list. One day...you might want to invest in a proper converter, especially if you plan on getting more old boards.
Or get seriously serious and build yourself one of these:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58941.msg1348717#msg1348717
(and while you are in there, hook up the 5th wire from the AT socket to PD7 on the Teensy for the "reset" connection for DC-2014s and the like)
I like orange alps but I hate blue alps am I normal? :))
If you have a PS/2 port a cheap, simple AT-to-PS/2 adapter should work fine, if not you might want to invest in a proper converter, especially if you plan on getting more old boards. Orihalcon's are not cheap, but they're very good.
I spent a bunch of time this weekend making a number of different franken-alps switches by mixing in parts from newer matias switches (right now only quiet clicks, but I'm tempted to get some clicky switches and mess with those too).
Using the terminology that Platy originated I'm calling the process of mixing in matias qc components as "smoking" (due to the gray color of the slider).
I used Orange, Salmon and Damped Cream switches in two different configurations:Additionally I make what I'll refer to as the "complicated quiet click" which swaps the entire guts of a quiet click into a damped cream saving only the complicated switchplate.
- Partial Smoke - Replace the tactile leaf with a quiet click tactile leaf.
- Full Smoke - Replace the tactile leaf and spring with the quiet click tactile leaf and spring
Overall I was actually really impressed with the results, with my three favorites being: Partially Smoked Orange, Fully Smoked Salmon, and the Complicated Quiet Click.
Partially Smoked Orange - The slightly lighter spring along with the older model switchplate in the oranges made for a very nice compliment to the newer and crisper tactile leaf from the quiet click.
Fully Smoked Salmon - This was a super crisp and slightly aggressive switch. The combination of later model complicated switchplate, the quiet click's tactile leaf and the undamped slider makes for a super crisp and crunchy feel. I think in the long term it would actually be easier (and cheaper) to use SKCM Whites as the donor. I'll have to look into it.
Complicated Quiet Click - This and the fully smoked cream were pretty similar, but I prefer the dampeners on the quiet clicks (could be age related). The end result is a slightly less wobbly (the switchplate on a qc has only one touch point on the slider) and more consistent feeling quiet click.
I'm going to build my first Alps Party board with Complicated Quiet Clicks and see how I like it vs. my v60 with quiet clicks.
Action pic!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EAAaViw.jpg)
I hate disassembling Alps because I insist on using toothpicks because I do not want to mar the housings, and I don't have any of the larger cocktail sticks that Chyros recommends.Flatten the ends of some cocktail sticks and you don't need to use the toothpicks (and you don't bend them out as far as you do with normal cocktail sticks - don't worry too much about that though, Alps can definitely take it ;) ). You can just stick them in and pull them out quickly again, takes the top housing with it. You can open switches in half a second like that.
I love your experimentation here. I hate disassembling Alps because I insist on using toothpicks because I do not want to mar the housings, and I don't have any of the larger cocktail sticks that Chyros recommends. I should consider whittling down some chopsticks or something.
Fully smoked salmon sounds both delicious and pretty awesome as do the complicated quiet clicks.
I love your experimentation here. I hate disassembling Alps because I insist on using toothpicks because I do not want to mar the housings, and I don't have any of the larger cocktail sticks that Chyros recommends. I should consider whittling down some chopsticks or something.
Fully smoked salmon sounds both delicious and pretty awesome as do the complicated quiet clicks.
I open them all up by hand with my fingernails. After a few hundred it does hurt a little :D
Awesome mods, jbondeson. Thanks for sharing the info. I agree it would be cheaper to use whites instead of salmon, but "smoked whites" doesn't sound as cool.
For switch opening, it would be cool to have some kind of flat pliers that could simultaneously wedge open the clips and grip on the upper housing to aid in removal. Maybe something made out of a flat piece of spring steel.
I hate disassembling Alps because I insist on using toothpicks because I do not want to mar the housings, and I don't have any of the larger cocktail sticks that Chyros recommends.Flatten the ends of some cocktail sticks and you don't need to use the toothpicks (and you don't bend them out as far as you do with normal cocktail sticks - don't worry too much about that though, Alps can definitely take it ;) ). You can just stick them in and pull them out quickly again, takes the top housing with it. You can open switches in half a second like that.
I want a blue alps board that I can harvest for the switches.
I want a blue alps board that I can harvest for the switches.
Me too
What have these poor boards ever done to these people? D:I want a blue alps board that I can harvest for the switches.Me too
You MONSTERS!
>:D >:D >:D
What have these poor boards ever done to these people?
decide whether or not I cannibalize them
decide whether or not I cannibalize them
I am starting to wonder whether click-modded orange might be as good or better, based on numerous comments.
After taking them apart, where they could be thoroughly examined for top specimens, then cleaned and lubed, I could easily see them being superior to raw blues in a questionable state.
I love orange Alps. I click modded a couple loose ones during my lunch hour today and, at least loose, they feel pretty similar to blues. It's not really a loud click, just enough to reinforce the tactile bump. I'm convinced enough that I'm probably going to build my Alps Party ANSI board with click-modded oranges.
One interesting note (which i would show if I actually had a macro lens :rolleyes:) is that you cannot put a leaf from a complicated switch into a matias housing as the legs are ever so slightly longer on a complicated leaf.Why would you want to do that? The click/tactile leaves on Matias switches are great. The piece of complicated Alps switches which is unquestionably better than Matias switches is the switchplate, which is much expensive to produce but much more reliable electrically.
One interesting note (which i would show if I actually had a macro lens :rolleyes:) is that you cannot put a leaf from a complicated switch into a matias housing as the legs are ever so slightly longer on a complicated leaf.Why would you want to do that? The click/tactile leaves on Matias switches are great.
The piece of complicated Alps switches which is unquestionably better than Matias switches is the switch plate, which is much expensive to produce but much more reliable electrically.
[Note, you can swap Matias click/tactile leaves into old Alps switches if you want.]
I'm thoroughly convinced that Blues use some kind of black magic. Swapping the blue slider into a Matias Click feels the same as the original slider, but swapping the Matias into Blue housing does not feel the same. Yet the sliders look identical.
First-generation Alps switches like Blues and Oranges appear to use a different plastic from all others afterwards. Originally they came lubed but of course that's quite expensive so it appears they moved to a different, low-friction plastic (POM?) for the second generation. As such, it would make sense that clicky Oranges feel much like Blues (except a little lighter) :) .I'm thoroughly convinced that Blues use some kind of black magic. Swapping the blue slider into a Matias Click feels the same as the original slider, but swapping the Matias into Blue housing does not feel the same. Yet the sliders look identical.
Yeah, pretty much confirmed that blue Alps are the work of voodoo priests working at Alps in the mid 80s.
Just don't make em like that anymore!
-
On that note, see if orange or any other Alps-made sliders retain the feel of blue Alps if swapped in. If so, then it's likely just the plastic being different between Matias and Alps, with Alps likely just being higher quality.
All the Alps sliders seem like POM to me, though I’m not an expert on plastics. I don’t think there’s any substantial difference in the material or slider quality between blue/salmon/white/orange/brown/green/yellow/etc. sliders. There are subtly different slider shapes between different switch types though.That could be the case too, in that case they simply didn't bother lubing anymore at some point xD . Wish I had a TGA/DSC xD .
All the Alps sliders seem like POM to me, though I’m not an expert on plastics. I don’t think there’s any substantial difference in the material or slider quality between blue/salmon/white/orange/brown/green/yellow/etc. sliders. There are subtly different slider shapes between different switch types though.That could be the case too, in that case they simply didn't bother lubing anymore at some point xD . Wish I had a TGA/DSC xD .
I'm thoroughly convinced that Blues use some kind of black magic. Swapping the blue slider into a Matias Click feels the same as the original slider, but swapping the Matias into Blue housing does not feel the same. Yet the sliders look identical.Do they use some watermelon and kfc to it? :p
Do we use dry lube ? Or have someone a special mix ?
Well I can tell you first hand that the standard Krytox wet lube we're all used to for MX switches, does not feel very nice on click-modded oranges. It just makes it feel muffled. So it's gonna have to be some kind of dry lube, I just don't know enough about that stuff to weigh in.Do we use dry lube ? Or have someone a special mix ?
I would like to hear the answer to this, also. I think that I may have to crack open and click mod my baggie of oranges for my next Alps project.
I'm thoroughly convinced that Blues use some kind of black magic. Swapping the blue slider into a Matias Click feels the same as the original slider, but swapping the Matias into Blue housing does not feel the same. Yet the sliders look identical.
Yeah, pretty much confirmed that blue Alps are the work of voodoo priests working at Alps in the mid 80s.
Just don't make em like that anymore!
Do we use dry lube ? Or have someone a special mix ?
seems like everyone is now hoarding their blue alps boards.
seems like everyone is now hoarding their blue alps boards.
People have always hoarded them, but now that they are ultra-hyped you have people buying them at ridiculous prices.
Sad thing is that they aren't even worth the premium they're sold for.
Sad thing is that they aren't even worth the premium they're sold for.
I spent too much on mine at $120, but mine also came with a whole computer! I ended up selling the computer for about $60 though. :)
Curious.. what's to love about alps? What sets it apart from other switches? Only alps I've ever felt was an apple keyboard like 15 years ago, so can't really remember it. Was the quietest keyboard I've ever typed on back in the day.
Curious.. what's to love about alps? What sets it apart from other switches? Only alps I've ever felt was an apple keyboard like 15 years ago, so can't really remember it. Was the quietest keyboard I've ever typed on back in the day.
Curious.. what's to love about alps? What sets it apart from other switches? Only alps I've ever felt was an apple keyboard like 15 years ago, so can't really remember it. Was the quietest keyboard I've ever typed on back in the day.
Here are some of the things that got me into Alps, perhaps others can weigh in with their thoughts.
1. The higher actuation point gives them a feel that's completely distinct from Cherry, although I suppose you either like this or dislike it.
2. They seem to be a more "forgiving" switch than Cherry, in that they tend not to bind if you strike them off-center.
3. When found clean and in good shape, vintage Alps are incredibly smooth.
4. Matias' modern Alps clones are widely available, relatively cheap, and although different from old complicated Alps, very good switches in their own right.
5. Vintage Alps boards are still pretty affordable and easy to find (as opposed to Cherry).
6. It's something new and different, which is alluring for a lot of folks.
I like Alps because I think overall they all feel nicer than most other mechanical switches. The price point is a definite plus as you can get the more common Alps boards like an AEK II for around $30. Alps also seem to be smoother overall, even the Blue SKCM I'm typing on now seem much better than any of Cherry's clicky switches. Plus I think I kind of like Alps being a little less common than Cherry, as the selection is better for those of us who are always looking for Alps.
should try it once. But my wallet forbids me
1. The higher actuation point gives them a feel that's completely distinct from Cherry, although I suppose you either like this or dislike it.
2. They seem to be a more "forgiving" switch than Cherry, in that they tend not to bind if you strike them off-center.
3. When found clean and in good shape, vintage Alps are incredibly smooth.
4. Matias' modern Alps clones are widely available, relatively cheap, and although different from old complicated Alps, very good switches in their own right.
5. Vintage Alps boards are still pretty affordable and easy to find (as opposed to Cherry).
6. It's something new and different, which is alluring for a lot of folks.
The sound, you're forgetting the sound! :DCurious.. what's to love about alps? What sets it apart from other switches? Only alps I've ever felt was an apple keyboard like 15 years ago, so can't really remember it. Was the quietest keyboard I've ever typed on back in the day.
Here are some of the things that got me into Alps, perhaps others can weigh in with their thoughts.
1. The higher actuation point gives them a feel that's completely distinct from Cherry, although I suppose you either like this or dislike it.
2. They seem to be a more "forgiving" switch than Cherry, in that they tend not to bind if you strike them off-center.
3. When found clean and in good shape, vintage Alps are incredibly smooth.
4. Matias' modern Alps clones are widely available, relatively cheap, and although different from old complicated Alps, very good switches in their own right.
5. Vintage Alps boards are still pretty affordable and easy to find (as opposed to Cherry).
6. It's something new and different, which is alluring for a lot of folks.
5. Vintage Alps boards are still pretty affordable and easy to find (as opposed to Cherry).Old MX keyboards are also pretty affordable. At any given time there are a bunch on ebay for ~$20–30.
The sound, you're forgetting the sound! :DCurious.. what's to love about alps? What sets it apart from other switches? Only alps I've ever felt was an apple keyboard like 15 years ago, so can't really remember it. Was the quietest keyboard I've ever typed on back in the day.
Here are some of the things that got me into Alps, perhaps others can weigh in with their thoughts.
1. The higher actuation point gives them a feel that's completely distinct from Cherry, although I suppose you either like this or dislike it.
2. They seem to be a more "forgiving" switch than Cherry, in that they tend not to bind if you strike them off-center.
3. When found clean and in good shape, vintage Alps are incredibly smooth.
4. Matias' modern Alps clones are widely available, relatively cheap, and although different from old complicated Alps, very good switches in their own right.
5. Vintage Alps boards are still pretty affordable and easy to find (as opposed to Cherry).
6. It's something new and different, which is alluring for a lot of folks.
The main thing is that Cherry MX was designed to be a linear switch, and the other variants are done via a hacky and not-very-effective method of adding a little bump to the slider which briefly adds some extra plastic-on-plastic resistance.I love this description, and the historical background you provided. I never paid attention to the force curve that closely, but Alps really do have a totally different feel after the click. Thanks for sharing this.
If you like linear switches, then early (i.e. from the 1980s) MX black switches are an okay but not spectacular switch. If you add lubricant and swap the springs for lighter ones, and put them into a very sturdy case, they can be quite nice, even. As linear switches they don’t live up to e.g. Honeywell hall effect switches or various other fancy switches from the 1960s–1970s, but they’re widely available and don’t need any electrical engineering work to use with modern machines.
However, if you want a switch with some tactile response, then no Cherry MX switch is particularly effective. What you get instead is a linear switch with a little “speed bump” about halfway down the keypress, but which goes back to being linear afterward. Even in the two-piece slider design of MX blue, the overall feel (try with earplugs sometime) is a linear switch with a little speedbump halfway down.
Alps switches by contrast have a metal leaf spring providing resistance, which suddenly gives way once the slider passes a particular point, so you get a force curve which grows somewhat smoothly and then drops suddenly after the tactile point. There’s much more snap to it, sort of like plucking a string or something.
Nice explanation! I was wondering about this. I've recently tried all three types of Matias switches and I find all three much better than the respective categories of Cherry MX. (The linear Cherries are possible to get to an acceptable state by tuning the springs and lubing, but Matias linears are already smooth from the factory.)This guys know what his talking about :thumb:
Now I'm trying the some ALPS and they are indeed very nice and smooth (so far have tried white clicky, and while stiffer than matias clicks, the sound and feel is indeed superior).
Comparison to Topre? Topre only exists in the "quiet click = tactile" category, and I do like them better than the respective switches in the matias world (I've yet to try a complicated tactile ALPS).
The main thing is that Cherry MX was designed to be a linear switch, and the other variants are done via a hacky and not-very-effective method of adding a little bump to the slider which briefly adds some extra plastic-on-plastic resistance.I have tried blue alps and orange alps and I think the closest one with topre is the orange alps but its a little bit different the bump of topre feels like a rounded bump as opposed to the orange alps which feels like a plastic hitting. I personally like topre better but Orange alps is really a good switch :thumb:
If you like linear switches, then early (i.e. from the 1980s) MX black switches are an okay but not spectacular switch. If you add lubricant and swap the springs for lighter ones, and put them into a very sturdy case, they can be quite nice, even. As linear switches they don’t live up to e.g. Honeywell hall effect switches or various other fancy switches from the 1960s–1970s, but they’re widely available and don’t need any electrical engineering work to use with modern machines.
However, if you want a switch with some tactile response, then no Cherry MX switch is particularly effective. What you get instead is a linear switch with a little “speed bump” about halfway down the keypress, but which goes back to being linear afterward. Even in the two-piece slider design of MX blue, the overall feel (try with earplugs sometime) is a linear switch with a little speedbump halfway down.
Alps switches by contrast have a metal leaf spring providing resistance, which suddenly gives way once the slider passes a particular point, so you get a force curve which grows somewhat smoothly and then drops suddenly after the tactile point. There’s much more snap to it, sort of like plucking a string or something.
should try it once. But my wallet forbids me
If you are comfortable with a soldering iron and transplanting a set of switches from one keyboard to another, the easiest and cheapest way to get a really good, straight-ANSI keyboard is to buy a Dell AT101(W) (they even come in black if that turns you on) and an Apple Extended Keyboard (AEK2 is even cheaper and more common) and transplant the switches from the Apple into the Dell. The Apple caps are also far superior but they don't have all the correct pieces to make a complete set.
5. Vintage Alps boards are still pretty affordable and easy to find (as opposed to Cherry).Old MX keyboards are also pretty affordable. At any given time there are a bunch on ebay for ~$20–30.
The main thing is that Cherry MX was designed to be a linear switch, and the other variants are done via a hacky and not-very-effective method of adding a little bump to the slider which briefly adds some extra plastic-on-plastic resistance.
If you like linear switches, then early (i.e. from the 1980s) MX black switches are an okay but not spectacular switch. If you add lubricant and swap the springs for lighter ones, and put them into a very sturdy case, they can be quite nice, even. As linear switches they don’t live up to e.g. Honeywell hall effect switches or various other fancy switches from the 1960s–1970s, but they’re widely available and don’t need any electrical engineering work to use with modern machines.
However, if you want a switch with some tactile response, then no Cherry MX switch is particularly effective. What you get instead is a linear switch with a little “speed bump” about halfway down the keypress, but which goes back to being linear afterward. Even in the two-piece slider design of MX blue, the overall feel (try with earplugs sometime) is a linear switch with a little speedbump halfway down.
Alps switches by contrast have a metal leaf spring providing resistance, which suddenly gives way once the slider passes a particular point, so you get a force curve which grows somewhat smoothly and then drops suddenly after the tactile point. There’s much more snap to it, sort of like plucking a string or something.
Nice explanation! I was wondering about this. I've recently tried all three types of Matias switches and I find all three much better than the respective categories of Cherry MX. (The linear Cherries are possible to get to an acceptable state by tuning the springs and lubing, but Matias linears are already smooth from the factory.)
Now I'm trying the some ALPS and they are indeed very nice and smooth (so far have tried white clicky, and while stiffer than matias clicks, the sound and feel is indeed superior).
Comparison to Topre? Topre only exists in the "quiet click = tactile" category, and I do like them better than the respective switches in the matias world (I've yet to try a complicated tactile ALPS).
Thats right bro! a really good switches or boardThe main thing is that Cherry MX was designed to be a linear switch, and the other variants are done via a hacky and not-very-effective method of adding a little bump to the slider which briefly adds some extra plastic-on-plastic resistance.
If you like linear switches, then early (i.e. from the 1980s) MX black switches are an okay but not spectacular switch. If you add lubricant and swap the springs for lighter ones, and put them into a very sturdy case, they can be quite nice, even. As linear switches they don’t live up to e.g. Honeywell hall effect switches or various other fancy switches from the 1960s–1970s, but they’re widely available and don’t need any electrical engineering work to use with modern machines.
However, if you want a switch with some tactile response, then no Cherry MX switch is particularly effective. What you get instead is a linear switch with a little “speed bump” about halfway down the keypress, but which goes back to being linear afterward. Even in the two-piece slider design of MX blue, the overall feel (try with earplugs sometime) is a linear switch with a little speedbump halfway down.
Alps switches by contrast have a metal leaf spring providing resistance, which suddenly gives way once the slider passes a particular point, so you get a force curve which grows somewhat smoothly and then drops suddenly after the tactile point. There’s much more snap to it, sort of like plucking a string or something.
Sounds a bit like how Topre works? Up until the actuation point, relatively large amount of force is required. But after the rubber collapses, you almost instantly bottom out?
AEK2 / AEK is ADB-bus right? Are there converts from ADB to USB?
AEK2 / AEK is ADB-bus right? Are there converts from ADB to USB?
Apple Extended Keyboard with orange or salmon Alps (generally, serial number lower than 500K is probably orange) is a different and significantly better (in my opinion, others disagree) keyboard than AEK2 (1989 copyright might still have salmon, 1990 copyright probably has dampened cream, and 1995 copyright probably has dampened white).
This guy must have bought a truckload of these, he has been selling them on ebay for years:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Griffin-iMate-ADB-to-USB-adapter-/321997360191?hash=item4af889cc3f:m:m56yBREdTTlOZpBnHKSRSvw
Apple Extended Keyboard with orange or salmon Alps (generally, serial number lower than 500K is probably orange)
I have tried blue alps and orange alps and I think the closest one with topre is the orange alps but its a little bit different the bump of topre feels like a rounded bump as opposed to the orange alps which feels like a plastic hitting. I personally like topre better but Orange alps is really a good switch :thumb:
This is not true. Salmon and Orange Alps production ran concurrently and serial number range does not matter.
The only way you'll ever be sure if you're getting orange or salmon is to have the seller pop a cap.
AEK2 / AEK is ADB-bus right? Are there converts from ADB to USB?
Apple Extended Keyboard with orange or salmon Alps (generally, serial number lower than 500K is probably orange) is a different and significantly better (in my opinion, others disagree) keyboard than AEK2 (1989 copyright might still have salmon, 1990 copyright probably has dampened cream, and 1995 copyright probably has dampened white).
This guy must have bought a truckload of these, he has been selling them on ebay for years:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Griffin-iMate-ADB-to-USB-adapter-/321997360191?hash=item4af889cc3f:m:m56yBREdTTlOZpBnHKSRSvw
Thanks! I'm wondering what kind of switch NEXT-keyboards use. Since Jobs moved from Apple to NEXT and took most of the top engineers with him, NEXT-boards may be Alps as well.
Listen to this guy he is an expert at alps! :thumb:I have tried blue alps and orange alps and I think the closest one with topre is the orange alps but its a little bit different the bump of topre feels like a rounded bump as opposed to the orange alps which feels like a plastic hitting. I personally like topre better but Orange alps is really a good switch :thumb:
Brown tactile Alps has more of a rounded tactility, but you're right. Despite the roundedness, it still feels like it's plastic. I like to say that if Topre made switches instead of cup rubber, brown tac Alps would be the closest approximation.
Come to the UK. I've been charged as much as the full value of the board PLUS the entire cost of the shipping as tax on top of what I've already paid before :p . You can even be charged tax on duties, and duties on tax on top of that!5. Vintage Alps boards are still pretty affordable and easy to find (as opposed to Cherry).Old MX keyboards are also pretty affordable. At any given time there are a bunch on ebay for ~$20–30.
Problem for me is, I live in the EU (Netherlands), so I have to pay a lot more to get it into my country (shipping, after-tax, and sometimes import tax). My ~300 USD 87UB has an extra tax of around 60 USD once it passes the border. That's 20% "extra"!
Show me your love for Alps keyboards!
Which Alps keyboards have you loved over the years?
Which ones do you use on a regular basis?
Which ones do you recommend for the community?
I can only wish to own as many Alps keyboards as this guy...
Come to the UK. I've been charged as much as the full value of the board PLUS the entire cost of the shipping as tax on top of what I've already paid before :p . You can even be charged tax on duties, and duties on tax on top of that!5. Vintage Alps boards are still pretty affordable and easy to find (as opposed to Cherry).Old MX keyboards are also pretty affordable. At any given time there are a bunch on ebay for ~$20–30.
Problem for me is, I live in the EU (Netherlands), so I have to pay a lot more to get it into my country (shipping, after-tax, and sometimes import tax). My ~300 USD 87UB has an extra tax of around 60 USD once it passes the border. That's 20% "extra"!
Apple Extended Keyboard with orange or salmon Alps (generally, serial number lower than 500K is probably orange)
This is not true. Salmon and Orange Alps production ran concurrently and serial number range does not matter. Speaking as someone who has owned an AEK with orange Alps and seen one with a LOWER serial number containing salmon Alps. The only way you'll ever be sure if you're getting orange or salmon is to have the seller pop a cap.What were the two serial numbers you got? You’re probably right that there was a bit of overlap in production, but fohat is also 100% right that low-serial AEKs are all orange Alps, while the highest serial AEKs are all salmon Alps (those with lowest serials have orange Alps with a tall gray switchplate and no logo; later ones have orange Alps with the tall white switchplates, some with logos; the latest ones have salmon Alps). I’ve seen pictures of pulled caps on at least 30 of these, and the general pattern is clear.
The ADB NeXT keyboards are rubber dome, non-ADB are Alps SKCM Black.This is incorrect. There are both ADB and non-ADB NeXT boards with Alps switches, and I’m pretty sure there are also both ADB and non-ADB NeXT boards with rubber domes.
AEK2 / AEK is ADB-bus right? Are there converts from ADB to USB?
Apple Extended Keyboard with orange or salmon Alps (generally, serial number lower than 500K is probably orange) is a different and significantly better (in my opinion, others disagree) keyboard than AEK2 (1989 copyright might still have salmon, 1990 copyright probably has dampened cream, and 1995 copyright probably has dampened white).
This guy must have bought a truckload of these, he has been selling them on ebay for years:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Griffin-iMate-ADB-to-USB-adapter-/321997360191?hash=item4af889cc3f:m:m56yBREdTTlOZpBnHKSRSvw
Thanks! I'm wondering what kind of switch NEXT-keyboards use. Since Jobs moved from Apple to NEXT and took most of the top engineers with him, NEXT-boards may be Alps as well.
AEK2 / AEK is ADB-bus right? Are there converts from ADB to USB?
Apple Extended Keyboard with orange or salmon Alps (generally, serial number lower than 500K is probably orange) is a different and significantly better (in my opinion, others disagree) keyboard than AEK2 (1989 copyright might still have salmon, 1990 copyright probably has dampened cream, and 1995 copyright probably has dampened white).
This guy must have bought a truckload of these, he has been selling them on ebay for years:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Griffin-iMate-ADB-to-USB-adapter-/321997360191?hash=item4af889cc3f:m:m56yBREdTTlOZpBnHKSRSvw
I'm almost scared of appreciating ALPS too hard since lately it's been driving prices to astronomical rates. There's no way SKCM Blue ALPS are driving the ridiculous prices as they are on eBay without the hype machine ruining things. They're not as rare as people think!
So today I received this NIB beauty with azerty dyesubsthats a beauty yo!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DiiagWX.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rqpQ8WZ.jpg)
I have a hasu pcb lined up but I need to figure plate and stabilizers to make it work.
Maybe alps expert can help me out?
album:
http://imgur.com/a/sTFQ7
dt picture showing how the stabs are mounted to the board.Show Image(https://deskthority.net/w/images/0/08/Jvp6311_front.jpg)
dt page about this keyboard serie : https://deskthority.net/wiki/Acer_6310_series
Apple Extended Keyboard with orange or salmon Alps (generally, serial number lower than 500K is probably orange)This is not true. Salmon and Orange Alps production ran concurrently and serial number range does not matter. Speaking as someone who has owned an AEK with orange Alps and seen one with a LOWER serial number containing salmon Alps. The only way you'll ever be sure if you're getting orange or salmon is to have the seller pop a cap.What were the two serial numbers you got? You’re probably right that there was a bit of overlap in production, but fohat is also 100% right that low-serial AEKs are all orange Alps, while the highest serial AEKs are all salmon Alps (those with lowest serials have orange Alps with a tall gray switchplate and no logo; later ones have orange Alps with the tall white switchplates, some with logos; the latest ones have salmon Alps). I’ve seen pictures of pulled caps on at least 30 of these, and the general pattern is clear.
So today I received this NIB beauty with azerty dyesubsthats a beauty yo!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DiiagWX.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rqpQ8WZ.jpg)
I have a hasu pcb lined up but I need to figure plate and stabilizers to make it work.
Maybe alps expert can help me out?
album:
http://imgur.com/a/sTFQ7
dt picture showing how the stabs are mounted to the board.Show Image(https://deskthority.net/w/images/0/08/Jvp6311_front.jpg)
dt page about this keyboard serie : https://deskthority.net/wiki/Acer_6310_series
How limited are we on ALPS tactile switch options? I only know of Matias Quiet Click. Does anything else come close?There are loads of tactile Alps, with considerably different characteristics. The earliest types (salmon, orange) are generally considered the best. As always with Alps; be mindful of the condition they're in!
I quite like Complicated Blues and Greens, but never knew of a Tactile equivalent.
Also, just ordered a V60 ALPS, so quite excited. :)
It doesn't help that KBP advertises on the box that it has Alps switches.How limited are we on ALPS tactile switch options? I only know of Matias Quiet Click. Does anything else come close?There are loads of tactile Alps, with considerably different characteristics. The earliest types (salmon, orange) are generally considered the best. As always with Alps; be mindful of the condition they're in!
I quite like Complicated Blues and Greens, but never knew of a Tactile equivalent.
Also, just ordered a V60 ALPS, so quite excited. :)
Matias switches aren't really Alps switches. They might look the same, and are advertised as pretty much the same, but in practice, they're not much further off Cherry MX than they are off Alps, really.
Matias switches aren't really Alps switches. They might look the same, and are advertised as pretty much the same, but in practice, they're not much further off Cherry MX than they are off Alps, really.Both Matias clicky switches and Matias tactile “quiet click” switches feel very similar to white Alps, in my opinion. They don’t feel remotely like any Cherry switch.
So today I received this NIB beauty with azerty dyesubsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/DiiagWX.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rqpQ8WZ.jpg)
I have a hasu pcb lined up but I need to figure plate and stabilizers to make it work.
Maybe alps expert can help me out?
album:
http://imgur.com/a/sTFQ7
dt picture showing how the stabs are mounted to the board.Show Image(https://deskthority.net/w/images/0/08/Jvp6311_front.jpg)
dt page about this keyboard serie : https://deskthority.net/wiki/Acer_6310_series
Has anyone ever tried click modding dampened cream Alps? There are so many of these switches lying around from old AEKII boards that have been harvested for caps. I decided to give it a try on my lunch break today. I desoldered a handful, opened them up and bent back the tabs. This completely changed the feel! I couldn't believe how similar they felt to the click modded oranges I made the other day. I tried removing the rubber bumpers on a couple of the click modded ones but I couldn't tell a difference with or without the bumpers.
If anyone else has some orange and/or cream Alps lying around, I would love some other opinions on the click mod.
I can only tell so much from a loose switch versus mounting in a board. So once I get more free time (read: when AW is done shipping) I'll probably load up one of my Alps Party plates with switches and caps and actually do some typing tests, comparing to my white Alps boards.
I think what I'm really trying to find out is whether or not click modded tactile Alps are an adequate substitute for the increasingly harder to find blue Alps.
The main thing is that Cherry MX was designed to be a linear switch, and the other variants are done via a hacky and not-very-effective method of adding a little bump to the slider which briefly adds some extra plastic-on-plastic resistance.I love this description, and the historical background you provided. I never paid attention to the force curve that closely, but Alps really do have a totally different feel after the click. Thanks for sharing this.
If you like linear switches, then early (i.e. from the 1980s) MX black switches are an okay but not spectacular switch. If you add lubricant and swap the springs for lighter ones, and put them into a very sturdy case, they can be quite nice, even. As linear switches they don’t live up to e.g. Honeywell hall effect switches or various other fancy switches from the 1960s–1970s, but they’re widely available and don’t need any electrical engineering work to use with modern machines.
However, if you want a switch with some tactile response, then no Cherry MX switch is particularly effective. What you get instead is a linear switch with a little “speed bump” about halfway down the keypress, but which goes back to being linear afterward. Even in the two-piece slider design of MX blue, the overall feel (try with earplugs sometime) is a linear switch with a little speedbump halfway down.
Alps switches by contrast have a metal leaf spring providing resistance, which suddenly gives way once the slider passes a particular point, so you get a force curve which grows somewhat smoothly and then drops suddenly after the tactile point. There’s much more snap to it, sort of like plucking a string or something.
Has anyone ever tried click modding dampened cream Alps?One variant I really like is to take the housing/slider/dampers/spring from cream Alps with the click leaf from white Alps, snip all of the inactive coils off one end of the spring to make it shorter, reducing overall switch stiffness, and then bend the click leaf outward a bit to be a bit clickier. Kind of tedious to make a bunch of them though (in particular getting the stronger click semi-consistent isn’t trivial), and you need some really hard snippers to cut through spring wire without being damaged. The resulting switch is very snappy and loud at the click point but makes no sound at the bottom or top of the stroke.
Has anyone ever tried click modding dampened cream Alps? There are so many of these switches lying around from old AEKII boards that have been harvested for caps. I decided to give it a try on my lunch break today. I desoldered a handful, opened them up and bent back the tabs. This completely changed the feel! I couldn't believe how similar they felt to the click modded oranges I made the other day. I tried removing the rubber bumpers on a couple of the click modded ones but I couldn't tell a difference with or without the bumpers.
If anyone else has some orange and/or cream Alps lying around, I would love some other opinions on the click mod.
I can only tell so much from a loose switch versus mounting in a board. So once I get more free time (read: when AW is done shipping) I'll probably load up one of my Alps Party plates with switches and caps and actually do some typing tests, comparing to my white Alps boards.
I think what I'm really trying to find out is whether or not click modded tactile Alps are an adequate substitute for the increasingly harder to find blue Alps.
Really? I've found Matiases to be much more tactile and quite clunky, and they have a second tactile point near the bottom where the slider clears the contact figure. They also don't sound anything like Alps, much hollower, and the clicker isn't as loud or as bassy Oo. That's just my opinion though.Matias switches aren't really Alps switches. They might look the same, and are advertised as pretty much the same, but in practice, they're not much further off Cherry MX than they are off Alps, really.Both Matias clicky switches and Matias tactile “quiet click” switches feel very similar to white Alps, in my opinion. They don’t feel remotely like any Cherry switch.
I like both Matias and ALPS - but I have to side with chyros here: the white clicky ALPS sound much more "mature" than matias clicks. (Though the quality of the feel&sound of both is way removed from anything Cherry switches can produce.)Really? I've found Matiases to be much more tactile and quite clunky, and they have a second tactile point near the bottom where the slider clears the contact figure. They also don't sound anything like Alps, much hollower, and the clicker isn't as loud or as bassy Oo. That's just my opinion though.Matias switches aren't really Alps switches. They might look the same, and are advertised as pretty much the same, but in practice, they're not much further off Cherry MX than they are off Alps, really.Both Matias clicky switches and Matias tactile “quiet click” switches feel very similar to white Alps, in my opinion. They don’t feel remotely like any Cherry switch.
Really? I've found Matiases to be much more tactile and quite clunky, and they have a second tactile point near the bottom where the slider clears the contact figure. They also don't sound anything like Alps, much hollower, and the clicker isn't as loud or as bassy Oo. That's just my opinion though.Find some NIB white Alps keyboard, put on some earplugs, and try it back to back with a Matias clicky keyboard. Very similar IMO, though the Matias switch has quite a bit more front-to-back wobble. (Not identical by any means, but pretty close. In general the Matias boards are “much more tactile” than white Alps boards because they’re new instead of 25 years old.) As you say, the sound is somewhat different, though that’s also greatly affected by context. Try soldering some clicky Matias switches next to some white Alps switches into the same board if you want a fair sound comparison.
Really? I've found Matiases to be much more tactile and quite clunky, and they have a second tactile point near the bottom where the slider clears the contact figure. They also don't sound anything like Alps, much hollower, and the clicker isn't as loud or as bassy Oo. That's just my opinion though.Find some NIB white Alps keyboard, put on some earplugs, and try it back to back with a Matias clicky keyboard. Very similar IMO, though the Matias switch has quite a bit more front-to-back wobble. (Not identical by any means, but pretty close. In general the Matias boards are “much more tactile” than white Alps boards because they’re new instead of 25 years old.) As you say, the sound is somewhat different, though that’s also greatly affected by context. Try soldering some clicky Matias switches next to some white Alps switches into the same board if you want a fair sound comparison.
Has anyone ever tried click modding dampened cream Alps? There are so many of these switches lying around from old AEKII boards that have been harvested for caps. I decided to give it a try on my lunch break today. I desoldered a handful, opened them up and bent back the tabs. This completely changed the feel! I couldn't believe how similar they felt to the click modded oranges I made the other day. I tried removing the rubber bumpers on a couple of the click modded ones but I couldn't tell a difference with or without the bumpers.
If anyone else has some orange and/or cream Alps lying around, I would love some other opinions on the click mod.
I can only tell so much from a loose switch versus mounting in a board. So once I get more free time (read: when AW is done shipping) I'll probably load up one of my Alps Party plates with switches and caps and actually do some typing tests, comparing to my white Alps boards.
I think what I'm really trying to find out is whether or not click modded tactile Alps are an adequate substitute for the increasingly harder to find blue Alps.
Those are some cool comparison shots. Interesting what you said about oranges being heavier. I thought the creams were ever so slightly heavier.Has anyone ever tried click modding dampened cream Alps? There are so many of these switches lying around from old AEKII boards that have been harvested for caps. I decided to give it a try on my lunch break today. I desoldered a handful, opened them up and bent back the tabs. This completely changed the feel! I couldn't believe how similar they felt to the click modded oranges I made the other day. I tried removing the rubber bumpers on a couple of the click modded ones but I couldn't tell a difference with or without the bumpers.
If anyone else has some orange and/or cream Alps lying around, I would love some other opinions on the click mod.
I can only tell so much from a loose switch versus mounting in a board. So once I get more free time (read: when AW is done shipping) I'll probably load up one of my Alps Party plates with switches and caps and actually do some typing tests, comparing to my white Alps boards.
I think what I'm really trying to find out is whether or not click modded tactile Alps are an adequate substitute for the increasingly harder to find blue Alps.
I did the same thing (click-mod + remove bumpers) on an AEK-II, and also click modded some oranges into a minitouch. They are very similar, but the oranges seem to be just a tad heavier. Since I had them out, I took a switch apart on each to compare.
Didn't know that the legs on the click leaves were different:
(Attachment Link)
I guess this explains why the oranges were a tad heavier... :))
(Attachment Link)
I've never tried blues so I can't compare against those though. Was hoping for a poor man's version of them with these mods though...
For me, the bottom-line question is whether the "blue mystique" can be reproduced by modding more common switches. Specifically, I have a bag full of nice oranges that I am considering taking apart and rebuilding. I have never messed with Alps switches internally before.Taking apart Alps switches is easy, for sure you should give it a go :) .
I really need a tactile switch, but I have no need or desire for noise. In fact I consider the sound to be a disadvantage, but the feel is essential. A lighter force would be great but I will not be cutting any springs - too much too precise work to get real consistency. I have loads of spare switches, especially black, which I would rob for springs if I thought that they were significantly lighter, but I don't think they are.
Lubing seems to be the answer, and dry is clearly the way to go.
The other thing that I like about Alps is the high actuation point, but I don't think that will change in any case, will it?
While I am generally indifferent to the stock dampened cream style, I do appreciate that they seem to have the upstroke dampened, which is a good thing, but otherwise I plan to not get involved with them at this point.
Matias switches aren't really Alps switches. They might look the same, and are advertised as pretty much the same, but in practice, they're not much further off Cherry MX than they are off Alps, really.It doesn't help that KBP advertises on the box that it has Alps switches.
Really? I've found Matiases to be much more tactile and quite clunky, and they have a second tactile point near the bottom where the slider clears the contact figure. They also don't sound anything like Alps, much hollower, and the clicker isn't as loud or as bassy Oo. That's just my opinion though.
I did some blind testing this morning with blue Alps, click-modded orange, and click-modded dampened cream. I wanted to see if I could tell the difference by sound and feel alone.why does my click modded orange have a soft bump instead the overpowered bump in blue alps?
It seems like the click-modded dampened cream Alps are much closer to blues than the click-modded oranges. Orange Alps have a stiffer bump, which makes them feel more like whites when click-modded. It doesn't feel like oranges have a heavier spring (at least not by much), but the stiffer bump makes them feel heavier. Not bad, but different.
Meanwhile, I had an incredibly difficult time telling apart the blues and creams. The blues have an ever so slightly deeper click sound, and when I plug my ears I perceive that blues are slightly heavier than creams. But other than that I can't tell them apart.
Next, I broke out a stack of nickels for a good old-fashioned actuation force test. I discovered that both the cream and blue switches require about 60g actuation force. Oranges were about 70g. Interestingly, non-click-modded cream Alps were also about 70g, so it's true that the click mod substantially affects the feel. White Alps are about 60g, but they feel much stiffer than blues or click-modded creams. I believe this is due to the combination of a lighter spring and a more pronounced bump on the leaf.
Summary: Click-modded oranges are closer to white Alps, and click-modded creams are closer to blue Alps.
I'm glad I did this because it's helped me make a decision on which switches to use for my next builds. I was going to click mod my remaining oranges and use those on my ANSI 60% build, but I already have some white Alps boards and I believe a board full of click-modded oranges would be too similar. Besides, I really like tactile oranges as-is, and if it ain't broke...
Instead, I'm going to click mod some cream Alps and use those for my next 60% build. I'm saving my bag of blues for my Monarch build, but after this experiment I truly believe that click-modded creams are a solid substitute for hard-to-find blues. The best part is, this simple mod takes an otherwise forgotten switch (dampened cream Alps) and turns it into something very desirable.
Now I'm just trying to figure out what to call this cream alps click mod. I was thinking about Ghetto Blues, because they're so similar to blues. But they're not blue, so that's confusing. I really like the fact that this mod has the potential to save cream alps from obscurity, so I was thinking of calling them Rescue Alps, kind of like a rescue dog that you save from the pound. Then again, the last thing this hobby needs is more jargon, so maybe just Click-modded Creams.
Can I borrow a few of those switches to play with njbair? I'm really curious about the click-modding stuff. Just haven't had the time to test it out myself. And yeah, I think click-modded creams is fine. The naming has gotten crazy.
I did the impossible. Bought a AEK for under $500
Matias switches aren't really Alps switches. They might look the same, and are advertised as pretty much the same, but in practice, they're not much further off Cherry MX than they are off Alps, really.It doesn't help that KBP advertises on the box that it has Alps switches.
Yeah Matias are definitely Alps-mount switches but not exactly Alps SKCM/SKCL. Still, I don't think thats a detractor. Just semantics.
I did the impossible. Bought a AEK for under $500
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Apple-M0115-ADB-Keyboard-with-Cord-27353042.html
I did the impossible. Bought a AEK for under $500Note that this is one with salmon switches and no (pretend) claim to being NIB. Still a nice keyboard though. :)
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Apple-M0115-ADB-Keyboard-with-Cord-27353042.html
Matias switches aren't really Alps switches. They might look the same, and are advertised as pretty much the same, but in practice, they're not much further off Cherry MX than they are off Alps, really.It doesn't help that KBP advertises on the box that it has Alps switches.
Yeah Matias are definitely Alps-mount switches but not exactly Alps SKCM/SKCL. Still, I don't think thats a detractor. Just semantics.
I think that's a factor of Matias switches being clones of the simplified SKBM/SKBL series instead of the complicated. Since Matias used to get their switches from Forward, it would make sense for Matias to have copied the switches from Forward.I did the impossible. Bought a AEK for under $500
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Apple-M0115-ADB-Keyboard-with-Cord-27353042.html
So YOU'RE the one who outbid me on that! I would've bid more but shipping is RIDICULOUS on Goodwill's website.
I did the impossible. Bought a AEK for under $500Note that this is one with salmon switches and no (pretend) claim to being NIB. Still a nice keyboard though. :)
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Apple-M0115-ADB-Keyboard-with-Cord-27353042.html
Now I'm just trying to figure out what to call this cream alps click mod. I was thinking about Ghetto Blues, because they're so similar to blues. But they're not blue, so that's confusing. I really like the fact that this mod has the potential to save cream alps from obscurity, so I was thinking of calling them Rescue Alps, kind of like a rescue dog that you save from the pound. Then again, the last thing this hobby needs is more jargon, so maybe just Click-modded Creams.
Shipping is a bit ridiculous. Still, I figured @ under 30 shipped, it was a good deal, even though its salmon vs orange. This was right at the top of my budget. I was assuming I would have got out bid at the last second. Had I known I probably wouldn't have bid on it. I never posted about it, in hopes that keeping it on the low down would keep the price low.
@jacobolus :D Yeah, just making light of the crazy $500 auction, and the recent price hike in ALPS in general. My collection is slowly growing. Still have never tried Blue orange or amber alps. I'm hoping salmon trumps dampened cream. I quite enjoy them.
You know, I have STILL never tried white Alps yet.
On my haven't tried list, I have only but the most common switches - dampened cream, SKCM black, SKCM white, and the odd NeXT SKCM cream (non-dampened).
I did some blind testing this morning with blue Alps, click-modded orange, and click-modded dampened cream. I wanted to see if I could tell the difference by sound and feel alone.
It seems like the click-modded dampened cream Alps are much closer to blues than the click-modded oranges. Orange Alps have a stiffer bump, which makes them feel more like whites when click-modded. It doesn't feel like oranges have a heavier spring (at least not by much), but the stiffer bump makes them feel heavier. Not bad, but different.
Meanwhile, I had an incredibly difficult time telling apart the blues and creams. The blues have an ever so slightly deeper click sound, and when I plug my ears I perceive that blues are slightly heavier than creams. But other than that I can't tell them apart.
Next, I broke out a stack of nickels for a good old-fashioned actuation force test. I discovered that both the cream and blue switches require about 60g actuation force. Oranges were about 70g. Interestingly, non-click-modded cream Alps were also about 70g, so it's true that the click mod substantially affects the feel. White Alps are about 60g, but they feel much stiffer than blues or click-modded creams. I believe this is due to the combination of a lighter spring and a more pronounced bump on the leaf.
Summary: Click-modded oranges are closer to white Alps, and click-modded creams are closer to blue Alps.
I'm glad I did this because it's helped me make a decision on which switches to use for my next builds. I was going to click mod my remaining oranges and use those on my ANSI 60% build, but I already have some white Alps boards and I believe a board full of click-modded oranges would be too similar. Besides, I really like tactile oranges as-is, and if it ain't broke...
Instead, I'm going to click mod some cream Alps and use those for my next 60% build. I'm saving my bag of blues for my Monarch build, but after this experiment I truly believe that click-modded creams are a solid substitute for hard-to-find blues. The best part is, this simple mod takes an otherwise forgotten switch (dampened cream Alps) and turns it into something very desirable.
Now I'm just trying to figure out what to call this cream alps click mod. I was thinking about Ghetto Blues, because they're so similar to blues. But they're not blue, so that's confusing. I really like the fact that this mod has the potential to save cream alps from obscurity, so I was thinking of calling them Rescue Alps, kind of like a rescue dog that you save from the pound. Then again, the last thing this hobby needs is more jargon, so maybe just Click-modded Creams.
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Thanks for sharing this--great comparison, and so good to elevate creams.
I did the impossible. Bought a AEK for under $500
That looks like a very nice one. Usually they are seriously yellowed. With a high serial number it is very likely salmons.
I did the impossible. Bought a AEK for under $500
That looks like a very nice one. Usually they are seriously yellowed. With a high serial number it is very likely salmons.
Wait what? So if I were out to buy an AEK I need at least 500$? I thought they were cheap, more like 50-80 USD? All hope is lost..
I did the impossible. Bought a AEK for under $500
That looks like a very nice one. Usually they are seriously yellowed. With a high serial number it is very likely salmons.
The relieve is real. I cannot wait to get my hands on an AEK. It will be my first vintage board. And it will bring me great nostalgia feels.
Wait what? So if I were out to buy an AEK I need at least 500$? I thought they were cheap, more like 50-80 USD? All hope is lost..
It's a joke lol. They're about $30 USD. Someone paid $500 in an earlier post in this thread.
They're about $30 USD.
They're about $30 USD.
That is a very good price and you would have to be patient.
Twice that would be more common.
Just bought an AEK with Oranges for $30, and I have another one on offer that was accepted.
Dang Blaise. Do you mind my asking of where you got the boards?
They're about $30 USD.
That is a very good price and you would have to be patient.
Twice that would be more common.
ALPS fans :D
IBM M 1390131 ALPS SKCM blue switches,Nov 86
Some high resolution pictures updated!!!
http://xiangce.baidu.com/picture/album/list/5a6c7908687be23f1d2ef80de074fe040d81c660?isscore=1#pic
After I tried old cherry mx black with thick og caps its just feels that alps is cheap. well I've yet to try all the alps
Its like cherry is a good beef with lots of exotic ingredients; And alps is like a good beef but with mediocre herbs
I have to say that board is a beauty :thumb:After I tried old cherry mx black with thick og caps its just feels that alps is cheap. well I've yet to try all the alps
Its like cherry is a good beef with lots of exotic ingredients; And alps is like a good beef but with mediocre herbs
If a rubber dome is like a bowl of sugar cereal in a bowl of non-dairy milk substitute...
Cherry MX is like cheap macaroni with american cheese and chunks of mystery-meat hot dogs tossed in. You can pick whichever color of food coloring you want to have mixed in with the cheese. It won’t give you instant diabetes but it’s hardly a healthy lifestyle.
Alps from the 80s–early 90s gives you the choice of well-made sandwich at the corner sandwich shop: pastrami on rye, BLT, Italian sub, maybe even a burger.
All those sexy switches and keycaps from the 60s–70s are the real gourmet stuff.
You want OG? These Alps switches and keycaps make Cherry MX black feel like a toy:Show Image(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3801/9764673284_9d439906b9_h.jpg)Show Image(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3768/9764607194_484cad3d5d_h.jpg)Show Image(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3780/9764721863_4f7c4c3952_h.jpg)Show Image(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5514/9764868922_61f171407c_h.jpg)Show Image(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2807/9765734984_b51be45879_h.jpg)
For more see:
https://deskthority.net/photos-f62/alps-cb14182b-scb1a163-aka-super-alps-t6525.html
https://www.flickr.com/photos/triplehaata/albums/72157635545864692/page2
You want OG? These Alps switches and keycaps make Cherry MX black feel like a toy:Show Image(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3801/9764673284_9d439906b9_h.jpg)
problem with fancy oldskool boards like that is
- finding one
- paying for one
- restoring one
- getting one to work with modern hardware
I've only been fortunate enough to have an orange alps m0116 my favorite switch, but I hate the layout. I really want to get my hands on a m0115 but haven't been able to find one at a good price. Also wish I had access to other alps and mantis keys to try for comparison I don't want to buy them in bulk in case I don't like one but if any of you guys have a sampler pack or one of each you like to sell I'd pay for shipping that would be awesome. :) Also where the heck do you find blues for sale?I am also interested in a sampler pack :)
I am also interested in a sampler pack
I am also interested in a sampler pack
At one point I think that Orihalcon was planning to put together some samplers. There is a problem that they (with the exception of Matias) are old and out of production. A company like Cherry has real incentive to help you evaluate before you decide which one of their products to purchase. There is little incentive for anyone to buy, process, sell, and ship scavenged Reagan-era gear "just to be nice"
Too bad
Actually I hesitate whether I want to jump into world of vintage Alps. (some of) They are hard to find and the condition varies. Even in good condition, they are around 20 years old. Not sure how long they will last, but probably shorter than new switches. It will be very sad if I fall in love with some vintage Alps and can't find any replacement when my old switches fail. I am quite happy with Matias switch now. Maybe I should just stick with Matias switches.I am also interested in a sampler pack
At one point I think that Orihalcon was planning to put together some samplers. There is a problem that they (with the exception of Matias) are old and out of production. A company like Cherry has real incentive to help you evaluate before you decide which one of their products to purchase. There is little incentive for anyone to buy, process, sell, and ship scavenged Reagan-era gear "just to be nice"
Actually I hesitate whether I want to jump into world of vintage Alps. (some of) They are hard to find and the condition varies. Even in good condition, they are around 20 years old. Not sure how long they will last, but probably shorter than new switches. It will be very sad if I fall in love with some vintage Alps and can't find any replacement when my old switches fail. I am quite happy with Matias switch now. Maybe I should just stick with Matias switches.I am also interested in a sampler pack
At one point I think that Orihalcon was planning to put together some samplers. There is a problem that they (with the exception of Matias) are old and out of production. A company like Cherry has real incentive to help you evaluate before you decide which one of their products to purchase. There is little incentive for anyone to buy, process, sell, and ship scavenged Reagan-era gear "just to be nice"
Even in good condition, they are around 20 years old. Not sure how long they will last, but probably shorter than new switches.Electrically, complicated Alps switches are very sturdy and reliable. The “switchplate” part where the electrical contacts are is well sealed and makes a very clean electrical signal, switching from on to off with almost no bouncing. The design is much more effective than Cherry MX switches, or simplified Alps switches or other clones (e.g. Matias switches).
Here are some fun Alps keycaps:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PdrzKxN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e9gmqfq.jpg)
For me, the bottom-line question is whether the "blue mystique" can be reproduced by modding more common switches. Specifically, I have a bag full of nice oranges that I am considering taking apart and rebuilding. I have never messed with Alps switches internally before.
I really need a tactile switch, but I have no need or desire for noise. In fact I consider the sound to be a disadvantage, but the feel is essential. A lighter force would be great but I will not be cutting any springs - too much too precise work to get real consistency. I have loads of spare switches, especially black, which I would rob for springs if I thought that they were significantly lighter, but I don't think they are.
Lubing seems to be the answer, and dry is clearly the way to go.
The other thing that I like about Alps is the high actuation point, but I don't think that will change in any case, will it?
While I am generally indifferent to the stock dampened cream style, I do appreciate that they seem to have the upstroke dampened, which is a good thing, but otherwise I plan to not get involved with them at this point.
Mitsumi Hybrid today. :'(Oh ****, I didn't even know they could come with that :( . Good to know, should be wikified...
Received my AEK with Oranges and the Magnavox VideoWriter withBrown AlpsMitsumi Hybrid today. :'(
Received my AEK with Oranges and the Magnavox VideoWriter withDamn bro this one need to be wikified!Brown AlpsMitsumi Hybrid today. :'(
@ fohat I recall in one of your recent posts you said you really like the tactile feel of Alps but don’t need or want much sound [...] I thought of those comments today when I finished restoring an AEK II with dampened white switches. [...] But they are a wonderful feeling and sounding switch
Btw can we rebuilt our GH wiki? I'm thinking on helping to rebuilt it so we get a good wiki tooJust add stuff to the Deskthority wiki.
can we rebuilt our GH wiki?
Exactly, it makes no sense to spend a lot of effort to rebuild something that already exists somewhere else :p . Better to work together to make something big and singular :) .Btw can we rebuilt our GH wiki? I'm thinking on helping to rebuilt it so we get a good wiki tooJust add stuff to the Deskthority wiki.
Even though it is nice to have a wiki for GH, it is redundant to have multiple. I'd much prefer having only one wiki and contributing to it so that we don't have misinformation between wikis, etc. It just wouldn't make sense for someone to make a new wikipedia2 to compete with wikipedia, you know?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160209/2f2611e181c113e9de1b932ea9128fc7.jpg)
Actually I hesitate whether I want to jump into world of vintage Alps. (some of) They are hard to find and the condition varies. Even in good condition, they are around 20 years old. Not sure how long they will last, but probably shorter than new switches. It will be very sad if I fall in love with some vintage Alps and can't find any replacement when my old switches fail. I am quite happy with Matias switch now. Maybe I should just stick with Matias switches.
Who said that the GH wiki has to be the same as the DT wiki?Exactly, it makes no sense to spend a lot of effort to rebuild something that already exists somewhere else :p . Better to work together to make something big and singular :) .Btw can we rebuilt our GH wiki? I'm thinking on helping to rebuilt it so we get a good wiki tooJust add stuff to the Deskthority wiki.
Yes a wiki about custom and tricks and all caps info!Who said that the GH wiki has to be the same as the DT wiki?Exactly, it makes no sense to spend a lot of effort to rebuild something that already exists somewhere else :p . Better to work together to make something big and singular :) .Btw can we rebuilt our GH wiki? I'm thinking on helping to rebuilt it so we get a good wiki tooJust add stuff to the Deskthority wiki.
We just need to find some sort of feature for the GH wiki to have that the DT wiki won't.
Last year there was a movement to have the wiki started back up but that died. I would totally be in for helping recreate our wiki if we had the carte blanche.
Who said that the GH wiki has to be the same as the DT wiki?Well, the discussion here in particular was adding to existing lists of keyboards known to have particular types of switches. Seems stupid to put that anywhere but the existing Deskthority wiki.
Can anyone guess what my latest project is?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i292x7S.jpg)
Since I have the M0116.. is here an ADB-USB adapter that anybody is aware of?Yes, you can get one from hasu: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72052.0 (support the development of TMK and hardware!)
Since I have the M0116.. is here an ADB-USB adapter that anybody is aware of?Yes, you can get one from hasu: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72052.0 (support the development of TMK and hardware!)
And someone from France is selling a 'commercial one' over on DT: https://deskthority.net/for-sale-f55/alps-keyboards-logitech-g500-and-steelseries-keycap-t12865.html
Can SP make PBT Alps spacebars? And woul anyone be interested in those?
Yeah I like a full pbt sets also!Can SP make PBT Alps spacebars? And woul anyone be interested in those?
The stem spacing on Alps is strange, so if this is for the idea of backwards compatibility, then I don't know how well that'd work. Old 7u Alps space bars with cruciform mounts do not have the same stem spacing as modern 7u space bars.
I'd like a full PBT Alps set in general though for sure.
I just did a writeup in the Making Stuff Together forum, explaining how an Alps click mod works. I even made a cutaway Alps switch for illustration:Really nice mods njbair!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3iFsMp2.gif)
Here's a link to the thread for anyone who's interested: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=79539.0
Can SP make PBT Alps spacebars? And woul anyone be interested in those?
The stem spacing on Alps is strange, so if this is for the idea of backwards compatibility, then I don't know how well that'd work. Old 7u Alps space bars with cruciform mounts do not have the same stem spacing as modern 7u space bars.
I'd like a full PBT Alps set in general though for sure.
All righty, I think I'm ready to dip my toes in the world of Alps. I think I've decided on the AEK II, and hopefully Salmon.I can help you get your toes into the alps world!. I got some alps that I'm about to sell hehe
Any other suggestions or is that a good place to start? At what price range should I consider searching on eBay or elsewhere? I've noticed that the prices are usually ~$50, so that seems do-able.
Can SP make PBT Alps spacebars? And woul anyone be interested in those?
The stem spacing on Alps is strange, so if this is for the idea of backwards compatibility, then I don't know how well that'd work. Old 7u Alps space bars with cruciform mounts do not have the same stem spacing as modern 7u space bars.
I'd like a full PBT Alps set in general though for sure.
Same, I'd appreciate a full PBT set. I still like the idea of a set with secondary and maybe even tertiary legends though! :)
I am not aware of any manufacturer that would make PBT ALPS keycaps. It would be awesome... but the only source that I know of for PBT ALPS keycaps are old Apple keyboards. And still no PBT spacebar.Can SP make PBT Alps spacebars? And woul anyone be interested in those?
The stem spacing on Alps is strange, so if this is for the idea of backwards compatibility, then I don't know how well that'd work. Old 7u Alps space bars with cruciform mounts do not have the same stem spacing as modern 7u space bars.
I'd like a full PBT Alps set in general though for sure.
Same, I'd appreciate a full PBT set. I still like the idea of a set with secondary and maybe even tertiary legends though! :)
How hard would it be to run the GB by myself? That's kind of the main thing keeping me from making an interest check. Or maybe I could run it through massdrop.
Yeah that would be awesome!I am not aware of any manufacturer that would make PBT ALPS keycaps. It would be awesome... but the only source that I know of for PBT ALPS keycaps are old Apple keyboards. And still no PBT spacebar.Can SP make PBT Alps spacebars? And woul anyone be interested in those?
The stem spacing on Alps is strange, so if this is for the idea of backwards compatibility, then I don't know how well that'd work. Old 7u Alps space bars with cruciform mounts do not have the same stem spacing as modern 7u space bars.
I'd like a full PBT Alps set in general though for sure.
Same, I'd appreciate a full PBT set. I still like the idea of a set with secondary and maybe even tertiary legends though! :)
How hard would it be to run the GB by myself? That's kind of the main thing keeping me from making an interest check. Or maybe I could run it through massdrop.
Yeah that would be awesome!I am not aware of any manufacturer that would make PBT ALPS keycaps. It would be awesome... but the only source that I know of for PBT ALPS keycaps are old Apple keyboards. And still no PBT spacebar.Can SP make PBT Alps spacebars? And woul anyone be interested in those?
The stem spacing on Alps is strange, so if this is for the idea of backwards compatibility, then I don't know how well that'd work. Old 7u Alps space bars with cruciform mounts do not have the same stem spacing as modern 7u space bars.
I'd like a full PBT Alps set in general though for sure.
Same, I'd appreciate a full PBT set. I still like the idea of a set with secondary and maybe even tertiary legends though! :)
How hard would it be to run the GB by myself? That's kind of the main thing keeping me from making an interest check. Or maybe I could run it through massdrop.
All righty, I think I'm ready to dip my toes in the world of Alps. I think I've decided on the AEK II, and hopefully Salmon.I can help you get your toes into the alps world!. I got some alps that I'm about to sell hehe
Any other suggestions or is that a good place to start? At what price range should I consider searching on eBay or elsewhere? I've noticed that the prices are usually ~$50, so that seems do-able.
100ish orange alpsAll righty, I think I'm ready to dip my toes in the world of Alps. I think I've decided on the AEK II, and hopefully Salmon.I can help you get your toes into the alps world!. I got some alps that I'm about to sell hehe
Any other suggestions or is that a good place to start? At what price range should I consider searching on eBay or elsewhere? I've noticed that the prices are usually ~$50, so that seems do-able.
What are you putting up for sale my good sir.
100ish orange alpsAll righty, I think I'm ready to dip my toes in the world of Alps. I think I've decided on the AEK II, and hopefully Salmon.I can help you get your toes into the alps world!. I got some alps that I'm about to sell hehe
Any other suggestions or is that a good place to start? At what price range should I consider searching on eBay or elsewhere? I've noticed that the prices are usually ~$50, so that seems do-able.
What are you putting up for sale my good sir.
And mint blue apls board?
Wat100ish orange alpsAll righty, I think I'm ready to dip my toes in the world of Alps. I think I've decided on the AEK II, and hopefully Salmon.I can help you get your toes into the alps world!. I got some alps that I'm about to sell hehe
Any other suggestions or is that a good place to start? At what price range should I consider searching on eBay or elsewhere? I've noticed that the prices are usually ~$50, so that seems do-able.
What are you putting up for sale my good sir.
And mint blue apls board?
<SNIP>
MODERATION NOTE: Do not circumvent the Classifieds Rules (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56284.0) by posting outside of the Classifieds subforum.
Yeah that would be awesome!I am not aware of any manufacturer that would make PBT ALPS keycaps. It would be awesome... but the only source that I know of for PBT ALPS keycaps are old Apple keyboards. And still no PBT spacebar.Can SP make PBT Alps spacebars? And woul anyone be interested in those?
The stem spacing on Alps is strange, so if this is for the idea of backwards compatibility, then I don't know how well that'd work. Old 7u Alps space bars with cruciform mounts do not have the same stem spacing as modern 7u space bars.
I'd like a full PBT Alps set in general though for sure.
Same, I'd appreciate a full PBT set. I still like the idea of a set with secondary and maybe even tertiary legends though! :)
How hard would it be to run the GB by myself? That's kind of the main thing keeping me from making an interest check. Or maybe I could run it through massdrop.
All righty, I think I'm ready to dip my toes in the world of Alps. I think I've decided on the AEK II, and hopefully Salmon.
Any other suggestions or is that a good place to start? At what price range should I consider searching on eBay or elsewhere? I've noticed that the prices are usually ~$50, so that seems do-able.
All righty, I think I'm ready to dip my toes in the world of Alps. I think I've decided on the AEK II, and hopefully Salmon.
Any other suggestions or is that a good place to start? At what price range should I consider searching on eBay or elsewhere? I've noticed that the prices are usually ~$50, so that seems do-able.
Salmon Alps in AEK2 are very rare. They only made a very few at the beginning of the run. A late-run AEK (1) would be much easier to find.
Ah, gotcha. Would it be better to get an AEK I with Salmon or AEK II with dampened Cream?
Sorry, don't know much about this and trying to bolster my knowledge of Alps.
Wat100ish orange alpsAll righty, I think I'm ready to dip my toes in the world of Alps. I think I've decided on the AEK II, and hopefully Salmon.I can help you get your toes into the alps world!. I got some alps that I'm about to sell hehe
Any other suggestions or is that a good place to start? At what price range should I consider searching on eBay or elsewhere? I've noticed that the prices are usually ~$50, so that seems do-able.
What are you putting up for sale my good sir.
And mint blue apls board?
<SNIP>
MODERATION NOTE: Do not circumvent the Classifieds Rules (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56284.0) by posting outside of the Classifieds subforum.
Wat100ish orange alpsAll righty, I think I'm ready to dip my toes in the world of Alps. I think I've decided on the AEK II, and hopefully Salmon.I can help you get your toes into the alps world!. I got some alps that I'm about to sell hehe
Any other suggestions or is that a good place to start? At what price range should I consider searching on eBay or elsewhere? I've noticed that the prices are usually ~$50, so that seems do-able.
What are you putting up for sale my good sir.
And mint blue apls board?
Sold, just let me know where to send my pp address... :)
Like romevi trying to get into the Alps world, so I would be interested in what you are trying to sell... It is hard to find cheap boards, and know the quality of the switches, so having someone who knows about them and already has looked them over really helps.
I am not aware of any manufacturer that would make PBT ALPS keycaps. It would be awesome... but the only source that I know of for PBT ALPS keycaps are old Apple keyboards. And still no PBT spacebar.Can SP make PBT Alps spacebars? And woul anyone be interested in those?
The stem spacing on Alps is strange, so if this is for the idea of backwards compatibility, then I don't know how well that'd work. Old 7u Alps space bars with cruciform mounts do not have the same stem spacing as modern 7u space bars.
I'd like a full PBT Alps set in general though for sure.
Same, I'd appreciate a full PBT set. I still like the idea of a set with secondary and maybe even tertiary legends though! :)
How hard would it be to run the GB by myself? That's kind of the main thing keeping me from making an interest check. Or maybe I could run it through massdrop.
Ah, gotcha. Would it be better to get an AEK I with Salmon or AEK II with dampened Cream?
Sorry, don't know much about this and trying to bolster my knowledge of Alps.
Depends on what you're going for. And dampened Cream Alps have an odd bottom out that no other switch other than Matias Quiet has. There's dampeners (I think rubber) in the switches so when you bottom out it's feels cushiony and a bit bouncy. The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.
Ah, gotcha. Would it be better to get an AEK I with Salmon or AEK II with dampened Cream?
Sorry, don't know much about this and trying to bolster my knowledge of Alps.
Depends on what you're going for. And dampened Cream Alps have an odd bottom out that no other switch other than Matias Quiet has. There's dampeners (I think rubber) in the switches so when you bottom out it's feels cushiony and a bit bouncy. The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.
Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
Ah, gotcha. Would it be better to get an AEK I with Salmon or AEK II with dampened Cream?
Sorry, don't know much about this and trying to bolster my knowledge of Alps.
Depends on what you're going for. And dampened Cream Alps have an odd bottom out that no other switch other than Matias Quiet has. There's dampeners (I think rubber) in the switches so when you bottom out it's feels cushiony and a bit bouncy. The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.
Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
Orange Alps are pretty easy to find. I would consider them a very good tactile switch.
Wat100ish orange alpsI can help you get your toes into the alps world!. I got some alps that I'm about to sell hehe
What are you putting up for sale my good sir.
And mint blue apls board?
<SNIP>
MODERATION NOTE: Do not circumvent the Classifieds Rules (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56284.0) by posting outside of the Classifieds subforum.
Like romevi trying to get into the Alps world, so I would be interested in what you are trying to sell... It is hard to find cheap boards, and know the quality of the switches, so having someone who knows about them and already has looked them over really helps.
He never even said a price lol
Salmon Alps are NOTHING like MX browns xD . They're very nice switches, to date possibly the ones I type on fastest.Ah, gotcha. Would it be better to get an AEK I with Salmon or AEK II with dampened Cream?
Sorry, don't know much about this and trying to bolster my knowledge of Alps.
Depends on what you're going for. And dampened Cream Alps have an odd bottom out that no other switch other than Matias Quiet has. There's dampeners (I think rubber) in the switches so when you bottom out it's feels cushiony and a bit bouncy. The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.
Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.
Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?They’re not very much like MX brown, IMO.
Salmon Alps are NOTHING like MX browns xD . They're very nice switches, to date possibly the ones I type on fastest.Ah, gotcha. Would it be better to get an AEK I with Salmon or AEK II with dampened Cream?
Sorry, don't know much about this and trying to bolster my knowledge of Alps.
Depends on what you're going for. And dampened Cream Alps have an odd bottom out that no other switch other than Matias Quiet has. There's dampeners (I think rubber) in the switches so when you bottom out it's feels cushiony and a bit bouncy. The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.
Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?They’re not very much like MX brown, IMO.
Orange and salmon Alps switches are very similar. They just changed the slider colors when they changed the generation of switch design in ~1990. Blue -> white, orange -> salmon, and green -> yellow.
maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
Salmon was the replacement for orange and extremely similar. They are the best tactile (but non-clicky) switches of all, in my opinion.
The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?They’re not very much like MX brown, IMO.
Orange and salmon Alps switches are very similar. They just changed the slider colors when they changed the generation of switch design in ~1990. Blue -> white, orange -> salmon, and green -> yellow.
Or a IIGS. Some of those have orange.maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
Salmon was the replacement for orange and extremely similar. They are the best tactile (but non-clicky) switches of all, in my opinion.The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?They’re not very much like MX brown, IMO.
Orange and salmon Alps switches are very similar. They just changed the slider colors when they changed the generation of switch design in ~1990. Blue -> white, orange -> salmon, and green -> yellow.
Okay, neat. Looks like I'll be on the lookout for an AEK with orange or AEK II with Salmon. :thumb:
It's hard to truly show any material differences between the two, but as far as I know, the vast majority of people agree blues are noticeably better than whites. The noise is also unmistakably different.The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?They’re not very much like MX brown, IMO.
Orange and salmon Alps switches are very similar. They just changed the slider colors when they changed the generation of switch design in ~1990. Blue -> white, orange -> salmon, and green -> yellow.
How significant were the changes? I know there is a lot of debate over whether blues and whites are really that different. But to me there seems to be a clear difference.
Or a IIGS. Some of those have orange.maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
Salmon was the replacement for orange and extremely similar. They are the best tactile (but non-clicky) switches of all, in my opinion.The Salmon Alps kinda remind me of MX Browns. A light Tactile switch.Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?They’re not very much like MX brown, IMO.
Orange and salmon Alps switches are very similar. They just changed the slider colors when they changed the generation of switch design in ~1990. Blue -> white, orange -> salmon, and green -> yellow.
Okay, neat. Looks like I'll be on the lookout for an AEK with orange or AEK II with Salmon. :thumb:
Matias has been making progress on aftermarket keycaps, including PBT dyesubs. No word yet on when they'll be available, though. See this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45483.0).True! Forgot about the Matias 60% GB. Oh, when that hits the market, it will hit pretty hard :)
I'm kind of worried that they missed their window of opportunity. When that GB started there was no such thing as a V60 MTS, or even a hasu Alps64 PCB.Matias has been making progress on aftermarket keycaps, including PBT dyesubs. No word yet on when they'll be available, though. See this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45483.0).True! Forgot about the Matias 60% GB. Oh, when that hits the market, it will hit pretty hard :)
I'm kind of worried that they missed their window of opportunity. When that GB started there was no such thing as a V60 MTS, or even a hasu Alps64 PCB.Matias has been making progress on aftermarket keycaps, including PBT dyesubs. No word yet on when they'll be available, though. See this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45483.0).True! Forgot about the Matias 60% GB. Oh, when that hits the market, it will hit pretty hard :)
There will be two things working for them: the arrow cluster on the KB, and the PBT keyset. And also I think they've already funded the whole enterprise, so (at least the GB bit) should not be a completely losing proposition. Also once they'll have the molds (which should be funded essentially from the GB), they can start churning ALPS PBT sets and charging a relatively high price for them - regardless of success(hopefully) or failure of the 60% GB.I'm kind of worried that they missed their window of opportunity. When that GB started there was no such thing as a V60 MTS, or even a hasu Alps64 PCB.Matias has been making progress on aftermarket keycaps, including PBT dyesubs. No word yet on when they'll be available, though. See this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45483.0).True! Forgot about the Matias 60% GB. Oh, when that hits the market, it will hit pretty hard :)
It still irks me to no end whenever I see the fat and skinny keys at the bottom row. That bottom row also makes all the current aftermarket 60% cases useless.The fat bottom row is really the only thing that distinguishes it from any other keyboard though.. without that there wouldn’t be much point IMO.
Salmon Alps are NOTHING like MX browns xD . They're very nice switches, to date possibly the ones I type on fastest.
Found some interesting stuff over on goodwill although a lot of you have probably already discovered this .
2 Apple m0110A - currently at $10 5 days left
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Lo ... 07292.html
4 m0115 - currently at $11 5 days left
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Lo ... 06370.html
TRS 80 - $11 1 day left no bids so far
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/VT ... 99911.html
F122 27598022(1986) $5 6 days left
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/IB ... 98022.html
Found some interesting stuff over on goodwill although a lot of you have probably already discovered this .
2 Apple m0110A - currently at $10 5 days left
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Lo ... 07292.html
4 m0115 - currently at $11 5 days left
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Lo ... 06370.html
TRS 80 - $11 1 day left no bids so far
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/VT ... 99911.html
F122 27598022(1986) $5 6 days left
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/IB ... 98022.html
Something happened to your links
Any more discussion related to buying and selling will be removed. Please maintain these types of discussion within the Classifieds subforum.
Thanks!
Note: don’ use purple text on Geekhack. It’s entirely unreadable for anyone who uses the default black-background style.
Was not directed at you, sorry for the confusion.Any more discussion related to buying and selling will be removed. Please maintain these types of discussion within the Classifieds subforum.
Thanks!
Sorry figured it was allowed since alps !
Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
Salmon Alps are NOTHING like MX browns xD . They're very nice switches, to date possibly the ones I type on fastest.
Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
Romevi, you should also consider the V60 or V80 with Matias quiet click. I really think that switch is underrated.
Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
Romevi, you should also consider the V60 or V80 with Matias quiet click. I really think that switch is underrated.
I considered that too, but wasn't sure if I should get vintage Alps or Matias first.
Plus, the Vintage boards seem to be better on my wallet, but I have been itching to try a 60% Alps...
Hmm... Not a fan of Browns, so maybe Salmon wouldn't be for me. Any tactile switches you recommend that are easy to obtain for a beginner like me?
Romevi, you should also consider the V60 or V80 with Matias quiet click. I really think that switch is underrated.
I considered that too, but wasn't sure if I should get vintage Alps or Matias first.
Plus, the Vintage boards seem to be better on my wallet, but I have been itching to try a 60% Alps...
Romevi,
I second the V60 or V80, idea. I used the V80 today, so it is fresh in my mind.
Why didn't you like Browns?
Is the V80 programmable? Meaning Can I program a numpad in there like how the Realforce has one?
Hasu really are awesome!Is the V80 programmable? Meaning Can I program a numpad in there like how the Realforce has one?
Don't think so but you can get hasu's USB to USB converter and then it won't matter
Is the V80 programmable? Meaning Can I program a numpad in there like how the Realforce has one?
Don't think so but you can get hasu's USB to USB converter and then it won't matter :P
Is the V80 programmable? Meaning Can I program a numpad in there like how the Realforce has one?
Don't think so but you can get hasu's USB to USB converter and then it won't matter
Is the V80 programmable? Meaning Can I program a numpad in there like how the Realforce has one?
Don't think so but you can get hasu's USB to USB converter and then it won't matter
Yeah not with the stock controller. If you use Hasu's USB to USB then you have to find a different key to act as the fn key as the fn key will not register..
Is the V80 programmable? Meaning Can I program a numpad in there like how the Realforce has one?
Don't think so but you can get hasu's USB to USB converter and then it won't matter
That's right! I keep forgetting about about that. God bless hasu.
Is the V80 programmable? Meaning Can I program a numpad in there like how the Realforce has one?
Don't think so but you can get hasu's USB to USB converter and then it won't matter
Yeah not with the stock controller. If you use Hasu's USB to USB then you have to find a different key to act as the fn key as the fn key will not register..
And...crap. The Fn key was vital. Don't suppose I can bypass this some other way?
Eh. Maybe I'll just see if I can get a custom Alps TKL and put Matias Quiet Click.
I think I saw a post about the clueboard store opening. Does anyone have experience with the clueboard pcbs?
I like the form factor, but I honestly wanted my alps project to be hand wired.
Just overall quality, and is it programmable?I think I saw a post about the clueboard store opening. Does anyone have experience with the clueboard pcbs?
I like the form factor, but I honestly wanted my alps project to be hand wired.
Yes, it just opened. He already sold out of stock in hand for the pcb. What are you wanting to know about it?
I may or may not know as I asked a few questions before ordering..
Just overall quality, and is it programmable?I think I saw a post about the clueboard store opening. Does anyone have experience with the clueboard pcbs?
I like the form factor, but I honestly wanted my alps project to be hand wired.
Yes, it just opened. He already sold out of stock in hand for the pcb. What are you wanting to know about it?
I may or may not know as I asked a few questions before ordering..
Skullydazed has a great looking PCB and compatibility with aftermarket FC660M cases. I'd try one if I didn't already buy three Alps64 boards...
Skullydazed has a great looking PCB and compatibility with aftermarket FC660M cases. I'd try one if I didn't already buy three Alps64 boards...
Link? Is that the Clue board mentioned above?
This is awesome! I didn't know about this PCB before. Did it just come out recently or has been around for a while?Skullydazed has a great looking PCB and compatibility with aftermarket FC660M cases. I'd try one if I didn't already buy three Alps64 boards...
Link? Is that the Clue board mentioned above?
Yeah sorry. shop.clueboard.co
This is awesome! I didn't know about this PCB before. Did it just come out recently or has been around for a while?
It's definitely on my list to consider when I find a reason to build another keyboard next time ;D For now it's hard to justify getting another keyboard cos I have one desk and two keyboards, plus an incoming one. I really have more than I need.This is awesome! I didn't know about this PCB before. Did it just come out recently or has been around for a while?
It's been around under-wraps for a bit, but it's currently just hit general availability (well, not considering they're all sold out I think since people snagged them up super quick). :) PCB compatibility with both ALPS and MX, pretty cool cases, highly recommend it.
Damn this is awesome!This is awesome! I didn't know about this PCB before. Did it just come out recently or has been around for a while?
It's been around under-wraps for a bit, but it's currently just hit general availability (well, not considering they're all sold out I think since people snagged them up super quick). :) PCB compatibility with both ALPS and MX, pretty cool cases, highly recommend it.
That Clueboard looks perfect! I finally have a reason to get a Leopold-type board for a type of switch I haven't tried. Will probably get Matias Quiet.
Is it new? Any news on a restock?
Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask.
That Clueboard looks perfect! I finally have a reason to get a Leopold-type board for a type of switch I haven't tried. Will probably get Matias Quiet.
Is it new? Any news on a restock?
Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask.
Not really sure about their stock and incoming stock but they've got a subforum (https://geekhack.org/index.php?board=183.0) where I'm sure the answer you'd get would be accurate.
Ah, thanks!
Sorry to derail. :D
It's definitely on my list to consider when I find a reason to build another keyboard next time ;D For now it's hard to justify getting another keyboard cos I have one desk and two keyboards, plus an incoming one. I really have more than I need.This is awesome! I didn't know about this PCB before. Did it just come out recently or has been around for a while?
It's been around under-wraps for a bit, but it's currently just hit general availability (well, not considering they're all sold out I think since people snagged them up super quick). :) PCB compatibility with both ALPS and MX, pretty cool cases, highly recommend it.
It's definitely on my list to consider when I find a reason to build another keyboard next time ;D For now it's hard to justify getting another keyboard cos I have one desk and two keyboards, plus an incoming one. I really have more than I need.This is awesome! I didn't know about this PCB before. Did it just come out recently or has been around for a while?
It's been around under-wraps for a bit, but it's currently just hit general availability (well, not considering they're all sold out I think since people snagged them up super quick). :) PCB compatibility with both ALPS and MX, pretty cool cases, highly recommend it.
I have one or more. I need one more.It's definitely on my list to consider when I find a reason to build another keyboard next time ;D For now it's hard to justify getting another keyboard cos I have one desk and two keyboards, plus an incoming one. I really have more than I need.This is awesome! I didn't know about this PCB before. Did it just come out recently or has been around for a while?
It's been around under-wraps for a bit, but it's currently just hit general availability (well, not considering they're all sold out I think since people snagged them up super quick). :) PCB compatibility with both ALPS and MX, pretty cool cases, highly recommend it.
You stop!
Find a way to justify, there is always room for... one more.
I want to build another, and the only way for me to justify is alps.
I have none, and need one.
That Clueboard looks perfect! I finally have a reason to get a Leopold-type board for a type of switch I haven't tried. Will probably get Matias Quiet.
Is it new? Any news on a restock?
Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask.
Not really sure about their stock and incoming stock but they've got a subforum (https://geekhack.org/index.php?board=183.0) where I'm sure the answer you'd get would be accurate.
Ah, thanks!
Sorry to derail. :D
I recently picked up a Northgate OmniKey on Ebay. It's very yellow and very dirty. But it's an absolute tank! I'm thinking about leaning it against my bedpost as a weapon to swing at intruders.The back panel on one weighs more than a frying pan, I found out when I did the video on mine. You can kill intruders with just the backpanel xD .
The back panel on one weighs more than a frying pan, I found out when I did the video on mine. You can kill intruders with just the backpanel xD .
This does not work in my case. I already have an alps board. But… I don't have any linear alps board and Matias linear feels really nice. This is a good justification but I am already broke aafter buying F62 :(It's definitely on my list to consider when I find a reason to build another keyboard next time ;D For now it's hard to justify getting another keyboard cos I have one desk and two keyboards, plus an incoming one. I really have more than I need.This is awesome! I didn't know about this PCB before. Did it just come out recently or has been around for a while?
It's been around under-wraps for a bit, but it's currently just hit general availability (well, not considering they're all sold out I think since people snagged them up super quick). :) PCB compatibility with both ALPS and MX, pretty cool cases, highly recommend it.
You stop!
Find a way to justify, there is always room for... one more.
I want to build another, and the only way for me to justify is alps.
I have none, and need one.
I recently picked up a Northgate OmniKey on Ebay. It's very yellow and very dirty. But it's an absolute tank! I'm thinking about leaning it against my bedpost as a weapon to swing at intruders.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/R1F9rAo.jpg)
It's also got a surprisingly usable primary cluster layout. Notice the split right shift, Esc in the alpha cluster, Ctrl in the Caps Lock position.
If I'm going to restore this thing it's going to require a lot of elbow grease. I'll eventually make the time for it, but part of me wants to turn this into a frankenboard, like an oversized 60% with the F-keys on the left. Can someone talk me out of it? It would be a cool board, but a real shame to let such a rock-solid chassis go to waste.
part of me wants to turn this into a frankenboard,
a real shame to let such a rock-solid chassis go to waste.
Inn trying to put my M0116 back together and the spacebar keeps binding. I figured out that the stab wire is causing it. Any suggestions?I broke my enter keys on my board I don't know how to remove the stabilized keys its tarder than costar stabs
I recently picked up a Northgate OmniKey on Ebay. It's very yellow and very dirty. But it's an absolute tank! I'm thinking about leaning it against my bedpost as a weapon to swing at intruders.What switch bro?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/R1F9rAo.jpg)
It's also got a surprisingly usable primary cluster layout. Notice the split right shift, Esc in the alpha cluster, Ctrl in the Caps Lock position.
If I'm going to restore this thing it's going to require a lot of elbow grease. I'll eventually make the time for it, but part of me wants to turn this into a frankenboard, like an oversized 60% with the F-keys on the left. Can someone talk me out of it? It would be a cool board, but a real shame to let such a rock-solid chassis go to waste.
I recently found an old alps keyboard in some of my old stuff, going to give it a good cleaning and post some picsCmon snap some pic already!
What switch bro?
Blue alps on those case must be really geod!
What switch bro?
Pretty much all Northgate Omnikeys are complicated white Alps except for the very earliest ones with gold foil label, which are blues.
Blue alps on those case must be really geod!
What switch bro?
Pretty much all Northgate Omnikeys are complicated white Alps except for the very earliest ones with gold foil label, which are blues.
If I'm going to restore this thing it's going to require a lot of elbow grease. I'll eventually make the time for it, but part of me wants to turn this into a frankenboard, like an oversized 60% with the F-keys on the left. Can someone talk me out of it? It would be a cool board, but a real shame to let such a rock-solid chassis go to waste.I think you’d be better off figuring out the precise layout you want and contracting someone to waterjet a plate in that shape, instead of cutting this board down, since you’ll need a custom case, controller, etc. anyway.
You could probably resell the case to someone who wants to use it for their own project.
is it just a normal PS2 connection?
I recently picked up a Northgate OmniKey on Ebay. It's very yellow and very dirty. But it's an absolute tank! I'm thinking about leaning it against my bedpost as a weapon to swing at intruders.
Pretty much all Northgate Omnikeys are complicated white Alps except for the very earliest ones with gold foil label, which are blues.
If my experience with the Ultra TP is any indication, I'm willing to bet that any later-generation Omnikeys made with Windows keys have simplified Alps and/or clones, sadly.
Avant almost certainly used clones.
Coming soon I'll be posting my AEK which I just fully restored and it is looking great. :)
^ ThisComing soon I'll be posting my AEK which I just fully restored and it is looking great. :)
Pics! Could you make a sound video? I'm so curious how it sounds.. For nostalgia purposes..
Coming soon I'll be posting my AEK which I just fully restored and it is looking great. :)Loookin good mane! Pics and vids plesase
That is probably right. I have never seen an Omnikey with Windows keys.
switches I put into the 101P,
If you Google Image "Northgate Omnikey" you can see several different ones, actually :) . Don't know about the cables on them, though.
If my experience with the Ultra TP is any indication, I'm willing to bet that any later-generation Omnikeys made with Windows keys have simplified Alps and/or clones, sadly.
Avant almost certainly used clones.
That is probably right. I have never seen an Omnikey with Windows keys.
that board I linked is currently the only 101P on eBay.
An Omnikey 101 exists with Windows keys? And without that stupid detachable coiled cable?Note the “bigass” enter though.
Now that really is a unicorn and a Holy Grail chassis for somebody like me.
just has a few more keys smashed into the bottom row.
That's polished up into an incredible keyboard. What would one use to get the yellow out of the plastic, short of dyeing?
I need a real desoldering gun. Harvesting an entire AEKII worth of SKCM creams the other day was simply exhausting.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/cfda5f80d0ce4d8a246f898b7fa59ebd.jpg)
You know you're dedicated to Alps when your desoldering gun has a tip just for em. The legs on Alps are slightly bigger than MX switches.
Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/cfda5f80d0ce4d8a246f898b7fa59ebd.jpg)
You know you're dedicated to Alps when your desoldering gun has a tip just for em. The legs on Alps are slightly bigger than MX switches.
I didn't think to take a picture before restoration, but I at least have a couple from after. The board was covered in grime and dirt and the plastic was badly yellowed except for a spot in the corner when a sticker had been which was still nice and white. :)) I also took a photo of the full keyboard but it turns out to be all blurry and it's late here so all I have are these two. :rolleyes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/il1exWK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dEUZsOO.jpg)
Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/cfda5f80d0ce4d8a246f898b7fa59ebd.jpg)
You know you're dedicated to Alps when your desoldering gun has a tip just for em. The legs on Alps are slightly bigger than MX switches.
Haha when i first got my desoldering gun i wasnt able to use it on Alps right away because of that, had to order a 1.2mm tip for them, is that what you use also?
Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?
Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Ok bro. Anybody that haves LZ that wants the pcb and plate too?Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Please let me know hos this goes.
Ok bro. Anybody that haves LZ that wants the pcb and plate too?Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Please let me know hos this goes.
Bruh.Ok bro. Anybody that haves LZ that wants the pcb and plate too?Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Please let me know hos this goes.
Goes wothout saying i want it :)
That's polished up into an incredible keyboard. What would one use to get the yellow out of the plastic, short of dyeing?
That looks great! AEK's really do come out nicely. The only reason I swapped SKCM Orange into my SGI Granite rather than just buy a AEK is because moving the bumps to D/K kill my typist speed, and swapping the caps looks awful imo.
Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/cfda5f80d0ce4d8a246f898b7fa59ebd.jpg)
You know you're dedicated to Alps when your desoldering gun has a tip just for em. The legs on Alps are slightly bigger than MX switches.
I need a real desoldering gun. Harvesting an entire AEKII worth of SKCM creams the other day was simply exhausting.
So the only tkl is kingsaver,lz fe and orion v2 right? Korean custom doesn't have much option on alps eh?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver. Oh, and Leeku made an MXAlps PCB for the G80-3000 too. It supported it under one revision at least, then cut support for Alps after the next revision, I think.
Right, and lastly the upcoming VE.A will support both MX and Alps.
If you want to go further, there's the Infinity, Infinity Ergodox, Alps Party, and Clueboard that all support Alps too, aaaand the Monarch.
Bruh.Ok bro. Anybody that haves LZ that wants the pcb and plate too?Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Please let me know hos this goes.
Goes wothout saying i want it :)
If we could gather some interest we could easily get the pcb and plate!
Sure bro! I'll make an IC when leeku replied to my MessageBruh.Ok bro. Anybody that haves LZ that wants the pcb and plate too?Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Please let me know hos this goes.
Goes wothout saying i want it :)
If we could gather some interest we could easily get the pcb and plate!
Do an IC, I can help out to some extent.
Does anyone have a few different common alps switches they can send my way for me to try I am willing to pay ? Interested in alps green, white , cream, cream dampened , salmon , white dampened, and matias as well . :) Also if you have the more rare ones you don't mind letting me try . I am also willing to pay for shipping here and back if someone wants to lend me some .
Thanks !!
Does anyone have a few different common alps switches they can send my way for me to try I am willing to pay ? Interested in alps green, white , cream, cream dampened , salmon , white dampened, and matias as well . :) Also if you have the more rare ones you don't mind letting me try . I am also willing to pay for shipping here and back if someone wants to lend me some .
Thanks !!
Green, Cream, and White Damped aren't common. ;)
Sure bro! I'll make an IC when leeku replied to my MessageBruh.Ok bro. Anybody that haves LZ that wants the pcb and plate too?Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Please let me know hos this goes.
Goes wothout saying i want it :)
If we could gather some interest we could easily get the pcb and plate!
Do an IC, I can help out to some extent.
Hey bocahgundul and henz (and others): can you guys stop quoting whole nested comment chains? Just delete the part that’s not immediately relevant context for your comment. Nobody wants to look at the same giant blob of nested chitchat ten times in a row.
Example:MoreSure bro! I'll make an IC when leeku replied to my MessageBruh.Ok bro. Anybody that haves LZ that wants the pcb and plate too?Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Please let me know hos this goes.
Goes wothout saying i want it :)
If we could gather some interest we could easily get the pcb and plate!
Do an IC, I can help out to some extent.
white dampened are common, look for end-run AEK2s copyright 1995
Orihalcon is selling some fine test kits on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281933137057?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281933137057?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Is it reasonable?
Is it reasonable?
It would take several hundred dollars and several months, minimum, to do it the old-fashioned way: find and purchase 1 each of keyboards bearing those switches and try them yourself.
Hey bocahgundul and henz (and others): can you guys stop quoting whole nested comment chains? Just delete the part that’s not immediately relevant context for your comment. Nobody wants to look at the same giant blob of nested chitchat ten times in a row.Good to know jacob, ah forgot to use @ cause editing post is hard on phone
Example:MoreSure bro! I'll make an IC when leeku replied to my MessageBruh.Ok bro. Anybody that haves LZ that wants the pcb and plate too?Thank you!Can I pm leeku for that plate and pcb for lz fe?Can I ask you guys what is the other custom board that can accept alps beside kingsaver and the alps party keyboard?
As far as I know (thanks to itzmeluigi), there's the LZ-FE and Orion v2 (both need the Leeku Alphas PCB and plate) and then that's it.
Well, the Duck Mini and Duck Viper/Eagle can too. As well as the Duck Lightpad, which is a number pad.
And then yes, of course, the Kingsaver.
Why don't you just try? ;)
He's pretty busy fulfilling Compact SQ GB orders right now, but he's answered all of my questions via PM.
Please let me know hos this goes.
Goes wothout saying i want it :)
If we could gather some interest we could easily get the pcb and plate!
Do an IC, I can help out to some extent.
I'd suggest getting an Aoyue if you can, they aren't quite as nice as Hakko but I'm loving my rework station.
after a week of using blue alps I have to say that I can't appreciate blue alps at all!. I'm sorry alps god but I have to sell this board and next is green alps!I'll take it. ;)
Desoldering is not too bad if the tech who assembled it originally did not bend the legs over before soldering them!Why do they do this? Most of the Apple boards I've harvested, had a mix of bent and unbent.
Why do they do this? Most of the Apple boards I've harvested, had a mix of bent and unbent.
That would explain why they usually seem to be the ones on the outside of each key cluster. I always start in the corners when I build a board.
Why do they do this? Most of the Apple boards I've harvested, had a mix of bent and unbent.
If you put a few around "dry" and crimp them down, then they hold the plates together while you solder in the rest.
Otherwise, there could be some lift somewhere in between and the switch body would not be held tight against the plate.
Why do they do this? Most of the Apple boards I've harvested, had a mix of bent and unbent.
If you put a few around "dry" and crimp them down, then they hold the plates together while you solder in the rest.
Otherwise, there could be some lift somewhere in between and the switch body would not be held tight against the plate.
Bending the leads down at the corners of the PCB is an entirely reasonable thing to do.
If you’re running an assembly line which needs to produce X keyboards per hour with a mixed-skill workforce doing the soldering, you want to have a well-defined process which cuts the defect rate to the extent possible while keeping throughput up. Bending the leads down at the corners of the PCB is an entirely reasonable thing to do.
California. Lots of cheap migrant labor.If you’re running an assembly line which needs to produce X keyboards per hour with a mixed-skill workforce doing the soldering, you want to have a well-defined process which cuts the defect rate to the extent possible while keeping throughput up. Bending the leads down at the corners of the PCB is an entirely reasonable thing to do.
Oh, it's not unreasonable at all. I'm sure there was no anticipation that their keyboards would reach enthusiast level in 20 + years time with people making efforts to remove the switches for their own projects or swapping in different switches which were never commonly available to the public outside of other keyboards. Even so, that wasn't their intended purpose anyway.It's just fun to nitpick, though I have seen a few (but not many) boards with no bent pins at all.
To do something quick and efficiently and with good repeatability, yeah, bending the pins over would be a great way to handle it. It's hard to believe that someone manually put these together by hand. I have no idea how assembly lines worked back in the day, but it kind of boggles my mind if that was the case.
I’m think keyboard switches are still mostly soldered down by hand.One of the guys at the recycling centre made PCBs, among others for keyboards. Apparently it's all done by machines. The solder is put on the contacts and is melted in a kind of oven. This would also explain why the contacts are bent on some or all of them, it simply uses that to keep the two together beforehand. He even mentioned that unlike the older boards, the new membrane ones can't be automated as easily because the membranes melt in the heat - so in a way it's more complicated to make rubber dome keyboards than the hi-tech ones before them :p .
In general, there’s a huge amount of manual assembly still involved in making electronic gadgets.
Complicated, maybe, but I guess the material costs must be vastly lower than discrete switches or else rubber domes would have never become the standard for free/low cost keyboards.I’m think keyboard switches are still mostly soldered down by hand.One of the guys at the recycling centre made PCBs, among others for keyboards. Apparently it's all done by machines. The solder is put on the contacts and is melted in a kind of oven. This would also explain why the contacts are bent on some or all of them, it simply uses that to keep the two together beforehand. He even mentioned that unlike the older boards, the new membrane ones can't be automated as easily because the membranes melt in the heat - so in a way it's more complicated to make rubber dome keyboards than the hi-tech ones before them.
In general, there’s a huge amount of manual assembly still involved in making electronic gadgets.
[...] made PCBs, among others for keyboards. Apparently it's all done by machines. The solder is put on the contacts and is melted in a kind of oven.I’m sure that’s the case for surface-mount components (microcontroller, resistors, diodes, etc.). We’re talking about the keyswitches themselves though. They can apparently do it with robots these days though:
Hmmm, could well be. Next time I see him I'll ask him in more detail :) .[...] made PCBs, among others for keyboards. Apparently it's all done by machines. The solder is put on the contacts and is melted in a kind of oven.I’m sure that’s the case for surface-mount components (microcontroller, resistors, diodes, etc.). We’re talking about the keyswitches themselves though. They can apparently do it with robots these days though:
Anything can be automated. It's just a question of whether the scale of production is large enough to amortize the substantial initial investment. Again, I'd bet if the Ergodox was sold by the hundred thousand, there would be a fully automated robotic assembly line pick-and-placing those switches prior to the robotic soldering.[...] made PCBs, among others for keyboards. Apparently it's all done by machines. The solder is put on the contacts and is melted in a kind of oven.I’m sure that’s the case for surface-mount components (microcontroller, resistors, diodes, etc.). We’re talking about the keyswitches themselves though. They can apparently do it with robots these days though:
so the prices of these boards can fall back down to earth where they belong.
I wish more people understood this. At least they all seem to understand it when it's time to sell their stuff.
so the prices of these boards can fall back down to earth where they belong.
Prices "belong" at whatever point at least 1 person is willing to pay.
Just because every buyer always wants prices to be low is irrelevant.
so the prices of these boards can fall back down to earth where they belong.
Prices "belong" at whatever point at least 1 person is willing to pay.
Just because every buyer always wants prices to be low is irrelevant.
:)) :)) True. I'm but I wonder if this will sell. I don't doubt it though. If that Apple Keyboard with Sold for more than 300 I dont doubt that these will sell as well.
I wish more people understood this. At least they all seem to understand it when it's time to sell their stuff.
so the prices of these boards can fall back down to earth where they belong.
Prices "belong" at whatever point at least 1 person is willing to pay.
Just because every buyer always wants prices to be low is irrelevant.
:)) :)) True. I'm but I wonder if this will sell. I don't doubt it though. If that Apple Keyboard with Sold for more than 300 I dont doubt that these will sell as well.
I wish more people understood this. At least they all seem to understand it when it's time to sell their stuff.
Most keyboards are done in solder pools these days, just look at a Keycool or Rapoo PCB. On both I've found random bits of solder from the process.
Most keyboards are done in solder pools these days, just look at a Keycool or Rapoo PCB. On both I've found random bits of solder from the process.
Through hole stuff has generally been done with wave soldering where the board with the leads pointing down is passed over a standing wave of solder.
PCB of a Microterm board I harvested the switches off of.
Cool! Do you plan on making use of the LED cutouts?
Cool! Do you plan on making use of the LED cutouts?
I really don't know how to be honest. Can you install custom ones with the soarer converter?
Cool! Do you plan on making use of the LED cutouts?
I really don't know how to be honest. Can you install custom ones with the soarer converter?
I demand appreciation of these glorious Alps boards.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TR1aCit.jpg)
They are his and hers boards I made for my girlfriend and I for Christmas.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nvhl34f.jpg)
There is so much more room on my desk now that the AT101W has been replaced.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ww7iAFA.jpg)
Edit: A longer explanation of the gift in the context of the GB can be found here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75491.msg2059349#msg2059349).
If you want a 60% then I'd suggest getting a V60 and a 60% case from TEX or similar. I might actually get rid of my V60 soon, it's nice for typing but it's a pain without having dedicated Home, End, Del, etc.
If you want a 60% then I'd suggest getting a V60 and a 60% case from TEX or similar. I might actually get rid of my V60 soon, it's nice for typing but it's a pain without having dedicated Home, End, Del, etc.
I actually recommend a custom with TMK. It really turned 60% into something super awesome since you can customize the daylights out of the board I'm going to be making one of my ALPS64 boards into an AEK with Blue ALPS, can't wait!
Wish there was a custom alps TKL PCB...
Wish there was a custom alps TKL PCB...
Wish there was a custom alps TKL PCB...If all you want is an Alps TKL, try to snag a used Filco Zero. Rock solid chassis, should be easy enough to swap out switches, becomes programmable with a Pegasus Hoof, and it's compatible with the Aluminum TKL case tops for sale on mechanicalkeyboards.com.
If all you want is an Alps TKL, try to snag a used Filco Zero. Rock solid chassis, should be easy enough to swap out switches, becomes programmable with a Pegasus Hoof, and it's compatible with the Aluminum TKL case tops for sale on mechanicalkeyboards.com.
Wish there was a custom alps TKL PCB...If all you want is an Alps TKL, try to snag a used Filco Zero. Rock solid chassis, should be easy enough to swap out switches, becomes programmable with a Pegasus Hoof, and it's compatible with the Aluminum TKL case tops for sale on mechanicalkeyboards.com.
Very much so. I just looked into it, and I didn't even realize there was a V80 version with Fuhua white Alps clone switches, in addition to the V80 MTS models. I have those switches in my Filco Zero and I like them a lot.If all you want is an Alps TKL, try to snag a used Filco Zero. Rock solid chassis, should be easy enough to swap out switches, becomes programmable with a Pegasus Hoof, and it's compatible with the Aluminum TKL case tops for sale on mechanicalkeyboards.com.
The V80 with a Hasu to Hasu converter might be a viable option too.
Very much so. I just looked into it, and I didn't even realize there was a V80 version with Fuhua white Alps clone switches, in addition to the V80 MTS models. I have those switches in my Filco Zero and I like them a lot.If all you want is an Alps TKL, try to snag a used Filco Zero. Rock solid chassis, should be easy enough to swap out switches, becomes programmable with a Pegasus Hoof, and it's compatible with the Aluminum TKL case tops for sale on mechanicalkeyboards.com.
The V80 with a Hasu to Hasu converter might be a viable option too.
I would love for someone with a V80 to crack it open and get a look at the controller. Since the board is made by Costar, could it be compatible with the existing replacement controllers?
Yup KBP told me that the V80 controller is not removable, they said they would look into it, but that would probably be a while.That's a nice case. Looks like it comes in black, red, and dark gray. I would probably get the dark gray. I love the removable USB option as well.
Also the Filco Zero does fit in the Vortex TKL Alu case, but the plate needs to be sanded 0.5mm to fit, and the Vortex case has clearance issues when using a custom controller, depending on what controller your using you might have to cut away at some of the aluminum near the controller area. https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212 Its out of stock now though.
The TEX TKL Alu cases that mk.com will receive soon should have all of the issues mentioned above fixed and has much better design that will make any keyboard also have a removable cable which is really nice. https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=280
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
I don't know much about Alps at all, but I got suggested an idea over on /r/mk.
I have access to an old board with white alps, I'm not sure what it is offhand, but it's old enough that it's a 5 pin DIN cable. The problem is that it's yellowed from smoke/age and one keycap is missing and the stem of the switch is broken, the switches themselves felt pretty nice though. Someone suggested I harvest the switches and get something like the Infinity board on massdrop right now.
I thought this sounded like a fun little project, but I'm not sure about the costs since I have no soldering iron, etc. I've got a Shine 5 so this wouldn't be for my main board, it'd just be to maybe take to work or trade off/sell in the future. I mentioned it to my friend but he just asked why I'd use old switches instead of just buying new (plus if I went new, I could just go MX, so I'd have more keycap compatibility). Which is a pretty solid point, so here I am.
So what I'm wondering is would these old switches have any advantage over just buying new ones?
Yup KBP told me that the V80 controller is not removable, they said they would look into it, but that would probably be a while.That's a nice case. Looks like it comes in black, red, and dark gray. I would probably get the dark gray. I love the removable USB option as well.
Also the Filco Zero does fit in the Vortex TKL Alu case, but the plate needs to be sanded 0.5mm to fit, and the Vortex case has clearance issues when using a custom controller, depending on what controller your using you might have to cut away at some of the aluminum near the controller area. https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212 Its out of stock now though.
The TEX TKL Alu cases that mk.com will receive soon should have all of the issues mentioned above fixed and has much better design that will make any keyboard also have a removable cable which is really nice. https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=280
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
Right Shift = Denied
This man knows his keyboard. Mad props!!
And here I am only using right shift, never left.
And here I am only using right shift, never left.
I do use left but it is probably 70/30 right. It may be close to 50/50 with the alphas but almost exclusively right for the mods.
And here I am only using right shift, never left.
I do use left but it is probably 70/30 right. It may be close to 50/50 with the alphas but almost exclusively right for the mods.
In high school keyboarding class, they taught us to use the Shift key on the opposite hand as the key you want to shift. I've done it this way without thinking for about 20 years.
It would drive me bonkers if I had to use only one shift
It would drive me bonkers if I had to use only one shift
Yes, the 1-shift users are not likely to be people who regularly type proper sentences and standard text.
And here I am only using right shift, never left.
I do use left but it is probably 70/30 right. It may be close to 50/50 with the alphas but almost exclusively right for the mods.
In high school keyboarding class, they taught us to use the Shift key on the opposite hand as the key you want to shift. I've done it this way without thinking for about 20 years.
This is exactly what I do.
Strange thing is I type like 90wpm using one shift. The way i do it is the left pinky hits the shift when I have to shift everything else stays on the home row. Now that I am thinking about it I really don't capitalize the letters q or z often, a occasionally and i just hit it when my left hand ring finger if I am holding shift.What about capitalizing W,E,R,T? I'm just curious.
so maybe if I properly typed I could do 100+
Strange thing is I type like 90wpm using one shift. The way i do it is the left pinky hits the shift when I have to shift everything else stays on the home row. Now that I am thinking about it I really don't capitalize the letters q or z often, a occasionally and i just hit it when my left hand ring finger if I am holding shift.What about capitalizing W,E,R,T? I'm just curious.
Thanks! I guess it's not as cumbersome as I thought it would be. I'm an old timer who was taught the cross-shifting method too, so using a single shift sounded like it would be extra work. I guess it could even be faster when YELLING a couple of short words.Strange thing is I type like 90wpm using one shift. The way i do it is the left pinky hits the shift when I have to shift everything else stays on the home row. Now that I am thinking about it I really don't capitalize the letters q or z often, a occasionally and i just hit it when my left hand ring finger if I am holding shift.What about capitalizing W,E,R,T? I'm just curious.
The "Q" would be the weird one, I have super stretch my ring finger to press "q" while holding down left shift with pinky. W, E, R, and T are easy: just use left hand exclusively. With enough training it's pretty easy, I guess my fingers are long and skinny enough to afford doing so effortlessly. To overcompensate over-usage of left pinky I use my right thumb exclusively to hit the spacebar.
Strange thing is I type like 90wpm using one shift. The way i do it is the left pinky hits the shift when I have to shift everything else stays on the home row. Now that I am thinking about it I really don't capitalize the letters q or z often, a occasionally and i just hit it when my left hand ring finger if I am holding shift.What about capitalizing W,E,R,T? I'm just curious.
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
And I thought the TEX Beetle was bad...
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
And I thought the TEX Beetle was bad...
I think his custom is actually quite charming and personal! Good work, shareandenjoy. :)
Exactly. What that guy doesn't realize is that nobody cares that he doesn't like your keyboard.I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
And I thought the TEX Beetle was bad...
I think his custom is actually quite charming and personal! Good work, shareandenjoy. :)
Thanks! I realize the layout is not for everyone, but it works for me. I simply never use the right side modifiers and always use the arrows. It was a no brainier from my perspective.
One of the cool things about this hobby is if you don't like something or want to try a different approach you can always roll your own!
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
I don't think I could function without a right shift, and that is all everyone is talking about on this board. You should get some love for the DIY aesthetics. I may have to use hardboard panels on my next project.
I’d love to share a custom Alps board I just made…only I didn’t make it. I merely harvested the switches and had the good sense to let a maestro do the rest. I did choose the color way, but that’s about as significant as a fifth grader finally coloring within the lines for the first time.Awesome board. Honestly, it's just as well you chose not to withhold the builder. To anyone who's been around GH for the last year, that case and quality dye job scream Yoe.
As some of you may have done, I noticed some postings of an artisan on instagram, and asked to learn about his work. When the chance came to commission something from him, I took it.
The PCB is remarkably a DIY effort in rich terra cotta tones with reflective copper traces etched by toner-transfer paper ironed on with individual holes meticulously drilled. The Teensy is soldered directly to the PCB, and I kept the bottom convertible style to admire the workmanship. The wood frame is made from white oak and allows the switch actuation to resonate without reverberation. It’s also decidedly craftsman, hand-made, and befitting of the 30-year-old switches and caps.
The key caps are from an Apple M0116 and dyed with Dylon multipurpose dye in kingfisher blue, tangerine orange, and emerald green. I was torn between accenting the HHKB arrow cluster or my home row IJKL arrows, but the homing dots being on the old school D and K keys swayed me to focus on highlighting the home row.
Comparing this custom 60% with an HHKB is somewhat incongruent as they have such different construction, but since I want to use both boards in a rotation, it’s an interesting juxtaposition. The salmon Alps switches mounted on a metal plate are a good deal more percussive than topre switches. But the feeling of plastic on steel is a lot more crisp and offers greater auditory feedback than the topre’s plastic-on-plastic pairing. When more subtle feedback is targeted, there’s no beating an HHKB with Hypersphere’s silencing rings. They’re the clear choice when working on the phone, but when you want a rapturous racket, salmon or orange Alps get it done.
The robustness of the USB connection on this custom is great. While I’ve read the HHKB USB port may be rated for only 500 connections (no idea if that’s accurate), this connection is stress relieved by being fastened to a connector secured to the frame and cable tethered to the teensy. It will still be strong to handle my fumbling fingers if/when I get Parkinson’s and can’t manage a steady mount…doctors say all of us dudes are headed for Parkinson’s or prostrate issues if we live long enough, so might as well enjoy great keyboards along the way.
The Teensy is TMK formatted, and I’m able to preserve all my Karabiner shortcuts and more. We have momentary Fn keys bound to keys on each side of the spacebar ( `~ and \| ) and the Esc key so any chording is flexible and convenient. Also mouse keys, media keys, Apple-specific keys, and navigational keys (home, end, page up/down, scrolling) are all incorporated.
This craftsman lives in Sweden and his handle on GH is Yoe. Selfish bugger that I am, I’d prefer keeping him a secret (as if I had such magical powers) and hoard his skills, but he deserves the recognition. And ironically, it’s a strikingly Swedish characteristic to humbly shun such accolades. I’m in line to have him make a custom “Happy Alps” board (unfortunately it requires sacrificing both an M0116 and an AEK to approximate an HHKB layout), but he’s ready to start taking on a few more projects.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Is there another guide on it somewhere?
I made a Matais custom and have been super happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
I'm really digging this layout. Definitely suits my typing style. Got any pictures of the the bottom? Did you make your own PCB or handwire the switches?
Thanks guys. I hope to wire this guy with all its caps into its own little board with custom PCB:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Apple-A2M4100-IIc-ROM-3-computer-in-excellent-shape-no-yellowing-/222025013571?hash=item33b1b8d943:g:XpkAAOSwG-1WwiK~
Oh lol okay then :))
The seller is in Florida, I might even get it tomorrow. I don't think any of these are gonna sell for that cheap anymore unfortunately. I kinda caught on the prices when I looked up the sold listings. I am quite surprised that I won. I thought for sure someone would go just barely above my bid and snipe it out of my hands.
Also, why are the ROM 3's so desirable?
Made my own thread a while back but I thought I share it here, my SGI Granite swapped with SKCM Orange and SKCL Greens. The SKCL Greens were some extras laying around from my V60 MTS Backlight project. That will be for another day though. Still need proper resistors for the backlight. Otherwise the V60 right now works besides the Windows keys.
Grey Plate Oranges as well :)
Made my own thread a while back but I thought I share it here, my SGI Granite swapped with SKCM Orange and SKCL Greens. The SKCL Greens were some extras laying around from my V60 MTS Backlight project. That will be for another day though. Still need proper resistors for the backlight. Otherwise the V60 right now works besides the Windows keys.
Grey Plate Oranges as well :)
Very nice. Orange alps are always very photogenic. How are the caps on the SGI? I have never tried them before. How do they hold up to say, Dell AT101W caps?
Good luck with the greens project :)
The Green Alps V60 has been going on for some time actually :D The keyboard works (mostly), the holes have been cut in the Greens and the LEDs have been installed and soldered in! All I need now is to install resistors, run a bit of wire to fix some lifted LED pads and im good!
Man I need me an alps pcb for my lz. I don't know how to contact LZ and leeku said that he don't know who makes the plate and he don't have stock for the pcb
and he said I need to contact LZ for more info
Ok i'm gonna try pming him!Man I need me an alps pcb for my lz. I don't know how to contact LZ and leeku said that he don't know who makes the plate and he don't have stock for the pcb
and he said I need to contact LZ for more info
He is here as well.
Ok i'm gonna try pming him!Man I need me an alps pcb for my lz. I don't know how to contact LZ and leeku said that he don't know who makes the plate and he don't have stock for the pcb
and he said I need to contact LZ for more info
He is here as well.
E3E reply to me pm ples!Ok i'm gonna try pming him!Man I need me an alps pcb for my lz. I don't know how to contact LZ and leeku said that he don't know who makes the plate and he don't have stock for the pcb
and he said I need to contact LZ for more info
He is here as well.
Good luck dude. Looking forward to hearing if you get one!
Henz, did you manage to get yourself a PCB and plate for your LZ?
I may have bought one too many boards from Japan. Prices not including international shipping... :))so you're the one who outbid my bidding on the sharp x68kShow Image(http://cdn.overclock.net/3/3b/3b336a2d_YEQbTNE.png)
I may have bought one too many boards from Japan. Prices not including international shipping... :))Show Image(http://cdn.overclock.net/3/3b/3b336a2d_YEQbTNE.png)
Made my own thread a while back but I thought I share it here, my SGI Granite swapped with SKCM Orange and SKCL Greens. The SKCL Greens were some extras laying around from my V60 MTS Backlight project. That will be for another day though. Still need proper resistors for the backlight. Otherwise the V60 right now works besides the Windows keys.
Grey Plate Oranges as well :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9n4FKlI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s2YWiDd.jpg?)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aH6Apb0.jpg)
I may have bought one too many boards from Japan. Prices not including international shipping... :))Google tells me that's about $850 USD. Not bad for such a large quantity. Do you plan on selling any of them?Show Image(http://cdn.overclock.net/3/3b/3b336a2d_YEQbTNE.png)
Google tells me that's about $850 USD. Not bad for such a large quantity. Do you plan on selling any of them?
Which one? ;Dthat sharp x68000 with green alps
Haha I was actually thinking about getting one setup for March sometime. Probably one of the last times I'll be available before I move to Boston for awhile. :eek:Google tells me that's about $850 USD. Not bad for such a large quantity. Do you plan on selling any of them?
I'll probably end up selling a large portion of it since I need to recoup some of the costs. Shipping to the US will probably end up costing me another ¥35.000 or so and I can't afford to hold onto all of them. Don't have space now and I'll have even less in a Boston apartment. :))
Haha I was actually thinking about getting one setup for March sometime. Probably one of the last times I'll be available before I move to Boston for awhile. :eek:Google tells me that's about $850 USD. Not bad for such a large quantity. Do you plan on selling any of them?
I'll probably end up selling a large portion of it since I need to recoup some of the costs. Shipping to the US will probably end up costing me another ¥35.000 or so and I can't afford to hold onto all of them. Don't have space now and I'll have even less in a Boston apartment. :))
Dude I'll take some white dampened, blue and salmon alps off your hands :p
I just hit the green Alps jackpot omg haha, thats not including Z-150 i got yesterday also.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/k2Jx1Fm.jpg)
I just hit the green Alps jackpot omg haha, thats not including Z-150 i got yesterday also.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/k2Jx1Fm.jpg)
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .I received the boards this way, i actually didnt take them apart. Im going to restore the boards in the picture to working order. I already have a bag full of SKCL Greens so i dont need to desolder these boards.
I just hit the green Alps jackpot omg haha, thats not including Z-150 i got yesterday also.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/k2Jx1Fm.jpg)
Such greenery <3
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .I received the boards this way, i actually didnt take them apart. Im going to restore the boards in the picture to working order. I already have a bag full of SKCL Greens so i dont need to desoler these boards.I just hit the green Alps jackpot omg haha, thats not including Z-150 i got yesterday also.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/k2Jx1Fm.jpg)
Such greenery <3
Greenery level is over 9000, i have so many of them that its impossible to use them all :))
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .I received the boards this way, i actually didnt take them apart. Im going to restore the boards in the picture to working order. I already have a bag full of SKCL Greens so i dont need to desoler these boards.I just hit the green Alps jackpot omg haha, thats not including Z-150 i got yesterday also.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/k2Jx1Fm.jpg)
Such greenery <3
Greenery level is over 9000, i have so many of them that its impossible to use them all :))
I can take some of those greens off your hands. You need some orange, right?
I’d love to share a custom Alps board I just made…only I didn’t make it. I merely harvested the switches and had the good sense to let a maestro do the rest. I did choose the color way, but that’s about as significant as a fifth grader finally coloring within the lines for the first time.
As some of you may have done, I noticed some postings of an artisan on instagram, and asked to learn about his work. When the chance came to commission something from him, I took it.
The PCB is remarkably a DIY effort in rich terra cotta tones with reflective copper traces etched by toner-transfer paper ironed on with individual holes meticulously drilled. The Teensy is soldered directly to the PCB, and I kept the bottom convertible style to admire the workmanship. The wood frame is made from white oak and allows the switch actuation to resonate without reverberation. It’s also decidedly craftsman, hand-made, and befitting of the 30-year-old switches and caps.
The key caps are from an Apple M0116 and dyed with Dylon multipurpose dye in kingfisher blue, tangerine orange, and emerald green. I was torn between accenting the HHKB arrow cluster or my home row IJKL arrows, but the homing dots being on the old school D and K keys swayed me to focus on highlighting the home row.
Comparing this custom 60% with an HHKB is somewhat incongruent as they have such different construction, but since I want to use both boards in a rotation, it’s an interesting juxtaposition. The salmon Alps switches mounted on a metal plate are a good deal more percussive than topre switches. But the feeling of plastic on steel is a lot more crisp and offers greater auditory feedback than the topre’s plastic-on-plastic pairing. When more subtle feedback is targeted, there’s no beating an HHKB with Hypersphere’s silencing rings. They’re the clear choice when working on the phone, but when you want a rapturous racket, salmon or orange Alps get it done.
The robustness of the USB connection on this custom is great. While I’ve read the HHKB USB port may be rated for only 500 connections (no idea if that’s accurate), this connection is stress relieved by being fastened to a connector secured to the frame and cable tethered to the teensy. It will still be strong to handle my fumbling fingers if/when I get Parkinson’s and can’t manage a steady mount…doctors say all of us dudes are headed for Parkinson’s or prostrate issues if we live long enough, so might as well enjoy great keyboards along the way.
The Teensy is TMK formatted, and I’m able to preserve all my Karabiner shortcuts and more. We have momentary Fn keys bound to keys on each side of the spacebar ( `~ and \| ) and the Esc key so any chording is flexible and convenient. Also mouse keys, media keys, Apple-specific keys, and navigational keys (home, end, page up/down, scrolling) are all incorporated.
This craftsman lives in Sweden and his handle on GH is Yoe. Selfish bugger that I am, I’d prefer keeping him a secret (as if I had such magical powers) and hoard his skills, but he deserves the recognition. And ironically, it’s a strikingly Swedish characteristic to humbly shun such accolades. I’m in line to have him make a custom “Happy Alps” board (unfortunately it requires sacrificing both an M0116 and an AEK to approximate an HHKB layout), but he’s ready to start taking on a few more projects.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .I received the boards this way, i actually didnt take them apart. Im going to restore the boards in the picture to working order. I already have a bag full of SKCL Greens so i dont need to desoler these boards.I just hit the green Alps jackpot omg haha, thats not including Z-150 i got yesterday also.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/k2Jx1Fm.jpg)
Such greenery <3
Greenery level is over 9000, i have so many of them that its impossible to use them all :))
I can take some of those greens off your hands. You need some orange, right?
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .I received the boards this way, i actually didnt take them apart. Im going to restore the boards in the picture to working order. I already have a bag full of SKCL Greens so i dont need to desoler these boards.I just hit the green Alps jackpot omg haha, thats not including Z-150 i got yesterday also.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/k2Jx1Fm.jpg)
Such greenery <3
Greenery level is over 9000, i have so many of them that its impossible to use them all :))
I can take some of those greens off your hands. You need some orange, right?
I have plenty of Oranges, i have three M0116's with Oranges, a bag of 60 Oranges, and a ABS M1 full of Oranges :)
I’d love to share a custom Alps board I just made…only I didn’t make it. I merely harvested the switches and had the good sense to let a maestro do the rest. I did choose the color way, but that’s about as significant as a fifth grader finally coloring within the lines for the first time.
As some of you may have done, I noticed some postings of an artisan on instagram, and asked to learn about his work. When the chance came to commission something from him, I took it.
The PCB is remarkably a DIY effort in rich terra cotta tones with reflective copper traces etched by toner-transfer paper ironed on with individual holes meticulously drilled. The Teensy is soldered directly to the PCB, and I kept the bottom convertible style to admire the workmanship. The wood frame is made from white oak and allows the switch actuation to resonate without reverberation. It’s also decidedly craftsman, hand-made, and befitting of the 30-year-old switches and caps.
The key caps are from an Apple M0116 and dyed with Dylon multipurpose dye in kingfisher blue, tangerine orange, and emerald green. I was torn between accenting the HHKB arrow cluster or my home row IJKL arrows, but the homing dots being on the old school D and K keys swayed me to focus on highlighting the home row.
Comparing this custom 60% with an HHKB is somewhat incongruent as they have such different construction, but since I want to use both boards in a rotation, it’s an interesting juxtaposition. The salmon Alps switches mounted on a metal plate are a good deal more percussive than topre switches. But the feeling of plastic on steel is a lot more crisp and offers greater auditory feedback than the topre’s plastic-on-plastic pairing. When more subtle feedback is targeted, there’s no beating an HHKB with Hypersphere’s silencing rings. They’re the clear choice when working on the phone, but when you want a rapturous racket, salmon or orange Alps get it done.
The robustness of the USB connection on this custom is great. While I’ve read the HHKB USB port may be rated for only 500 connections (no idea if that’s accurate), this connection is stress relieved by being fastened to a connector secured to the frame and cable tethered to the teensy. It will still be strong to handle my fumbling fingers if/when I get Parkinson’s and can’t manage a steady mount…doctors say all of us dudes are headed for Parkinson’s or prostrate issues if we live long enough, so might as well enjoy great keyboards along the way.
The Teensy is TMK formatted, and I’m able to preserve all my Karabiner shortcuts and more. We have momentary Fn keys bound to keys on each side of the spacebar ( `~ and \| ) and the Esc key so any chording is flexible and convenient. Also mouse keys, media keys, Apple-specific keys, and navigational keys (home, end, page up/down, scrolling) are all incorporated.
This craftsman lives in Sweden and his handle on GH is Yoe. Selfish bugger that I am, I’d prefer keeping him a secret (as if I had such magical powers) and hoard his skills, but he deserves the recognition. And ironically, it’s a strikingly Swedish characteristic to humbly shun such accolades. I’m in line to have him make a custom “Happy Alps” board (unfortunately it requires sacrificing both an M0116 and an AEK to approximate an HHKB layout), but he’s ready to start taking on a few more projects.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Hey, you made the PCB and case, that's building a keyboard by my definition :D
I enjoy seeing your work on Instagram, keep it up!. Mind sharing your PCB mask?
I just hit the green Alps jackpot omg haha, thats not including Z-150 i got yesterday also.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/k2Jx1Fm.jpg)
Mixing us up? ;) No worries! The pcb mask as either pdf or expresspcb file is available here, along with cads for the plate if you want to laser cut instead of dremel cutting the original plate. For M0116, go with the Y62 files.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76738.0
Thanks! And, yeh I would consider this a joint effort with seaworthy, but he keeps giving me all the credit. Don't let him! :D That color way is all his. I'm the one coloring within the lines :)
Ok i'm gonna try pming him!Man I need me an alps pcb for my lz. I don't know how to contact LZ and leeku said that he don't know who makes the plate and he don't have stock for the pcb
and he said I need to contact LZ for more info
He is here as well.
Good luck dude. Looking forward to hearing if you get one!
Henz, did you manage to get yourself a PCB and plate for your LZ?
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .
The Green Alps V60 has been going on for some time actually :D The keyboard works (mostly), the holes have been cut in the Greens and the LEDs have been installed and soldered in! All I need now is to install resistors, run a bit of wire to fix some lifted LED pads and im good!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OZhaa1V.jpg)
Soon...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IQwYt0g.jpg)
Your Alps shall shine!
Can't wait to see them light up, man. What color LEDs are you using? I LOVE Alps keyboards that are deceiving and look like they might be MX boards at first glance. Backlighting is so atypical for Alps, that such a thing contributes a ton to that "sleeper" look, imo.
With the new Infinity PCB also allowing for LEDs, a lot of backlit Alps builds are possible now, whether simply using Matias switches and soldering the LEDs on the rear of the PCB and bending them to shine through the MX switch wells, or doing what Mattr and I are doing and drilling holes in each Linear Complicated Alps housing in order to use 2x5x7mm LEDs.
For me, I went with Duck Eagle PCBs as they were the only option I thought of at the time. I had no idea the V60MTS was possible to set up for backlighting until Mattr and Itzmeluigi figured it out.
The customizability of a Duck PCB though, is a nice benefit, regardless. :)
I may have bought one too many boards from Japan. Prices not including international shipping... :))Show Image(http://cdn.overclock.net/3/3b/3b336a2d_YEQbTNE.png)
Uh....meetup again so I can play with all these? What a haul!Made my own thread a while back but I thought I share it here, my SGI Granite swapped with SKCM Orange and SKCL Greens. The SKCL Greens were some extras laying around from my V60 MTS Backlight project. That will be for another day though. Still need proper resistors for the backlight. Otherwise the V60 right now works besides the Windows keys.
Grey Plate Oranges as well :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9n4FKlI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s2YWiDd.jpg?)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aH6Apb0.jpg)
That's a lovely board :D
The SGI Granite is such a great board, just ruined with Dampened switches.“Ruined” seems a bit strong. These things were meant to be used in offices, and I assume the damped switches were at least in part a competitive answer to rubber dome keyboards, whose quietness was advertised as a major feature (though the biggest major feature was surely the lower production costs). The Alps switches with rubber dampers are supposed to be a “best of both worlds” compromise.
You can get a Granite for half what a AT101 goes for.That’s because the Dell AT101 is overpriced, bid up by folks who care about the Dell logo.
I think its because people doesn't like the caps legend? But I personally really likes the caps legend!QuoteYou can get a Granite for half what a AT101 goes for.That’s because the Dell AT101 is overpriced, bid up by folks who care about the Dell logo.
The SGI AT101s also seem cheaper recently than they were a year or two ago. Not sure why.
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .
Sorry Chryos :'( I traded the rest of my Zenith guts to Blaise, so maybe their is some hope for mine. I know people who simply threw away their bodies!
The SGI Granite is such a great board, just ruined with Dampened switches.“Ruined” seems a bit strong. These things were meant to be used in offices, and I assume the damped switches were at least in part a competitive answer to rubber dome keyboards, whose quietness was advertised as a major feature (though the biggest major feature was surely the lower production costs). The Alps switches with rubber dampers are supposed to be a “best of both worlds” compromise.
In practice I’m also not the biggest fan though. I think Matias quiet switches do a better job than Alps quiet (“cream”) switches.QuoteYou can get a Granite for half what a AT101 goes for.That’s because the Dell AT101 is overpriced, bid up by folks who care about the Dell logo.
The SGI AT101s also seem cheaper recently than they were a year or two ago. Not sure why.
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .
Sorry Chryos :'( I traded the rest of my Zenith guts to Blaise, so maybe their is some hope for mine. I know people who simply threw away their bodies!
I bought your Zenith Z-150 from Blaise, im going restore it and convert it to USB :)
It is a bit strong, but not a lot of people like themThe Apple Extended Keyboard II, with quiet switches, has a huge following still, 20+ years after production.
It is a bit strong, but not a lot of people like themThe Apple Extended Keyboard II, with quiet switches, has a huge following still, 20+ years after production.
Mixing us up? ;) No worries! The pcb mask as either pdf or expresspcb file is available here, along with cads for the plate if you want to laser cut instead of dremel cutting the original plate. For M0116, go with the Y62 files.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76738.0
Thanks! And, yeh I would consider this a joint effort with seaworthy, but he keeps giving me all the credit. Don't let him! :D That color way is all his. I'm the one coloring within the lines :)
Yes…we’re "pretty much" equals. We’re Chippendales. He’s Adrian. I’m Barney.
Ill leave this here:Bruh that boards looks sexy!. WHAT SWITCHES?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0izeAof.jpg)
i need gold caps as well.
Ill leave this here:Bruh that boards looks sexy!. WHAT SWITCHES?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0izeAof.jpg)
i need gold caps as well.
ooooh nice board!Ill leave this here:Bruh that boards looks sexy!. WHAT SWITCHES?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0izeAof.jpg)
i need gold caps as well.
Some Matias clickers, they sound so nice, not sure about the feel though, ill give it some more time. my colleagues does not seem to mind, these are by far the most sounding switches ive ever tried :D
Ill leave this here:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0izeAof.jpg)
i need gold caps as well.
If you like the sound of Matiases you should try some Alps switches if you haven't ;) . They make Matias sound like embarrassing pieces of plastic ;) .Ill leave this here:Bruh that boards looks sexy!. WHAT SWITCHES?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0izeAof.jpg)
i need gold caps as well.
Some Matias clickers, they sound so nice, not sure about the feel though, ill give it some more time. my colleagues does not seem to mind, these are by far the most sounding switches ive ever tried :D
If you like the sound of Matiases you should try some Alps switches if you haven't ;) . They make Matias sound like embarrassing pieces of plastic ;) .Ill leave this here:Bruh that boards looks sexy!. WHAT SWITCHES?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0izeAof.jpg)
i need gold caps as well.
Some Matias clickers, they sound so nice, not sure about the feel though, ill give it some more time. my colleagues does not seem to mind, these are by far the most sounding switches ive ever tried :D
They make Matias sound like embarrassing pieces of plastic .
Ill leave this here:Bruh that boards looks sexy!. WHAT SWITCHES?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0izeAof.jpg)
i need gold caps as well.
Some Matias clickers, they sound so nice, not sure about the feel though, ill give it some more time. my colleagues does not seem to mind, these are by far the most sounding switches ive ever tried :D
And, of course - anyone who does not want to type on an embarrassing piece of plastic is using a Model F
And, of course - anyone who does not want to type on an embarrassing piece of plastic is using a Model FPew pew wutchu gonna do alps and cherry users
Pew pew wutchu gonna do alps and cherry users
As of today, I have used both Green and Yellow Linear Alps on my ZKB-2's. I've gotta say, linear switches are not my thing, but I can see the appeal. I feel like the Yellows are underrated.
But the beeps. Oh god the beeps are amazing.
As of today, I have used both Green and Yellow Linear Alps on my ZKB-2's. I've gotta say, linear switches are not my thing, but I can see the appeal. I feel like the Yellows are underrated.
But the beeps. Oh god the beeps are amazing.
Haha I was actually thinking about getting one setup for March sometime. Probably one of the last times I'll be available before I move to Boston for awhile. :eek:Google tells me that's about $850 USD. Not bad for such a large quantity. Do you plan on selling any of them?
I'll probably end up selling a large portion of it since I need to recoup some of the costs. Shipping to the US will probably end up costing me another ¥35.000 or so and I can't afford to hold onto all of them. Don't have space now and I'll have even less in a Boston apartment. :))
So I get the confirmation of LZ for alps plate + pcb and a RGB diffuser for LZ FE.so I'm going to make a GB for it but I don't know anything about alps stabs so he said that we need to choose either the AEK 2 Type, SGI and Dell old type, DELL new type. what is the difference in all this? and do you guys know anything about L3 ALPhaS pcb?
So I get the confirmation of LZ for alps plate + pcb and a RGB diffuser for LZ FE.so I'm going to make a GB for it but I don't know anything about alps stabs so he said that we need to choose either the AEK 2 Type, SGI and Dell old type, DELL new type. what is the difference in all this? and do you guys know anything about L3 ALPhaS pcb?
So I get the confirmation of LZ for alps plate + pcb and a RGB diffuser for LZ FE.so I'm going to make a GB for it but I don't know anything about alps stabs so he said that we need to choose either the AEK 2 Type, SGI and Dell old type, DELL new type. what is the difference in all this? and do you guys know anything about L3 ALPhaS pcb?
Essentially, you're going to want to use caps from one of those boards. You can use a set like Alpine winter though, but you need to bend custom wire, or (I think) use the Matias stabilizer wire. I am not familiar with Matias stab wire, but I've heard it's meant to work with costar caps mounted on alps plate stabs.
What caps did you plan on using with that? Anything with Cherry stab mounts will need the custom wire or Matias wire option. Otherwise, you'll need those cap sets.
Dell AT101 and SGI Granite are your standard 7u. It's really the space bars that he's talking about here, as those are more unique and tricky than anything else because of the stabilizing shafts. Some other 7u boards also came with Cherry mount stabilzers. Notably Tai Hao.
Generally speaking, as long as the stabs are the traditional alps plate mount type stab, then you will be fine everywhere else (there were also costar plate stabs on some Alps boards).
Dell new style means Dell AT101W, which has a 6.25u bottom row. Seeing all the positions on the PCB, it is indeed compatible with all of those unique bottom rows. The AEK II space bar is not the same as the AEK I space bar, but I forget what the difference is. I think the stabilizing shaft is flipped.
Can anyone clarify that bit?
Basically we will offer
Dell at101, Dell at101W and AEKII layouts. Youd have to choose similar to alps party.
Basically we will offer
Dell at101, Dell at101W and AEKII layouts. Youd have to choose similar to alps party.
These plates won't match the mounts for the Orion v2 will they?
Finished restoring an AEK I today. To cloak Apple's boring beige, I used black matte plastidip on the case. To reduce abrasions and scuffs to the plastic finish, I applied a few coats of Turtle Wax Ice--supposedly works great for dipped cars...
Key caps are the original lovely PBTs dyed with Dylon multipurpose dye.
I've thought about doing the exact same to one of my boards. What color gray did you use on the keys? If I do it I'll definitely tape the Apple logo so that it still shows.I've got an AEKII case in decent condtion if you or anyone else wants it. Not sure if it's worth the price of shipping, I'll probably just recycle it.
I love it! Looks very different and unique. Nice work! How did the dye job work out? Was it tedious? I just bought a stainless steel 3 quart pot, staineless sieves, and a digital thermometer for a project I have in mind soon.
I just hope it's not too tricky!
QuoteI love it! Looks very different and unique. Nice work! How did the dye job work out? Was it tedious? I just bought a stainless steel 3 quart pot, staineless sieves, and a digital thermometer for a project I have in mind soon.
I just hope it's not too tricky!
The grey is iDye Poly Gun Metal.
It is pretty tedious, but most of that for me is in making all the mistakes. Originally I used small thrift store pans for dying. I know some people have no problem with this, but I kept getting splotchy results and edges that looked “burned”—even though I was stirring the entire time with a plastic cooking spoon. I started getting a little success when I switched to using a canning preserves system (mason jars suspended off the bottom of a large pot with a wire frame—like putting up fruit or using a double boiler.
I bought a candy thermometer but didn’t use it. Just keep the dye baths at or just under boiling and check a cap for the desired penetration / hue every few minutes. Heat is clearly a catalyst for dye—and even more so when in a pan verses a mason jar suspended in hot water. I’ve had four different colored dye baths going simultaneously; smarter to do just one at time. You have two time elements to contend with: 1) taking them out of the dye bath at the right time 2) scrubbing all the remaining residue of dye off once you remove them. You really have to vigorously scrub the caps (I used my hands in rubber gloves followed by a soapy toothbrush) to prevent the dye from drying unevenly …even if you are stirring the entire time.
Lighter colors like orange and yellow will take four times as long as gray, green and blue. Obviously you can’t dye from a darker color to a higher color with plastics—only the inverse.
Cool thing about Plastidip is that when you screw it up you can peel it off and start over again. Bad thing is it spits chunks when you get about 3/4 the way through the can. I found warming the cans with a blow dryer or hot water gives a much smoother spray pattern.
QuoteI'm using RIT Dyemore, which comes in liquid form, so that should get over a lot of the hassle of ensuring the dye is properly dissolved and mixed.
Some have said the formula for RIT has changed and no longer works on PBT. No idea if that's the case or not.
Please let us know about the liquid dye.
My understanding is that liquid RIT never worked, and that powdered RIT has not worked properly since they changed the formula about 2012.
Fortunately for me, all my powdered RIT is old. I found it very forgiving - if I wanted a dark color I just boiled the ancient IBM PBT for many minutes and it was even and good. About residue - I never had any. After the dye bath, I rinsed them briefly and I was done. I may have shaken them in soapy water for a minute but probably didn't have to.
Last, I filtered my dye water to get out any particles and have re-used darker colors like red or black more than once and still gotten good results.
"They just don't make stuff like they used to."
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .
Give me about a week. I need to take pictures of my Zenith, I've been using it at work exclusively for the past week since finishing my restoration. Think you'd like it, though I wish I had a black label.
Gotta say, SKCL Greens *really* grew on me. Something about the incredibly subtle tactility and the force curve of the springs. It sometimes almost feels like the keys are being suspended by rubber bands that are being stretched, rather than a spring being compressed. The keys wobble, but I kind of like it. No lube on the sliders, just the spring to muffle the insane amount of ping. Also, the way the assembly is mounted to the top case gives it an interesting flex which works well. I kind of wish the buzzer (really it's more of a beeper) had an adjustable volume like my Model F though, but it's still fun. Alt + Esc to toggle it easily.
Good to hear about reusing the colors as well. Do you just save the dye mixture in a jar or a bottle after you're done? I was wondering about multiple dye jobs with one batch of dye.
Very good to know. Please report on your success or failure.
Yes, I strained the dye water and kept it in a glass jar until I needed it again. I think that I used black 3 times and red twice, at the minimum.
So, I made this today. Inspired by Sandy's switch tool opener, and having already ordered golf scoring pens, BUT too impatient to wait with these darn Neon Greens here.
I made my own.
I have no idea what these blue DREMEL branded things went to, but they're now DREMEL-brand Alps switch openers.
Inspired by Sandy's tool, but improved upon, I think. I noticed switches that have never been opened before are usually very stubborn and tend to stick. Need to wobble them a bit before they come loose.
This thing, with the stem added in the center, does all the dirty work for you.
These are a very flexible plastic which makes them PERFECT for this.
you said in the past that you've got a custom AT101 with blue Alps and PBT caps? Where did you source those?
Inspired by Sandy's tool, but improved upon, I think. I noticed switches that have never been opened before are usually very stubborn and tend to stick. Need to wobble them a bit before they come loose.
This thing, with the stem added in the center, does all the dirty work for you.
These are a very flexible plastic which makes them PERFECT for this.
Would you consider posting the dimensions of the tines and especially the stem extension?
Would it be heinous to chop apart this AEK2 I just got at goodwill? cream, so... meh.
Opinions on reconstruction? I doubt i'd ever buy a converter to use it anyways.
I'd like a 60% or a TKL.
IDK how to create a teensy tkl doe.
you said in the past that you've got a custom AT101 with blue Alps and PBT caps? Where did you source those?
My blue switches came from a couple of LE-2014s that I bought a couple of years ago. The AT101W actually has orange in it.
I have been through a load of AT101s and only ever found one with a set of the PBT caps in "OK" condition.
Personally, I drool at the thought of a really nice set and would never dream of defiling them if I got them.
If you have an extra set I might be willing to trade you for them.
Very cool, useful tool. Would you consider posting the dimensions of the tines and especially the stem extension?
And what is it and where did you find it?
Would it be heinous to chop apart this AEK2 I just got at goodwill?There were millions of AEK IIs made, and anyone who wants one can get one on ebay for $20–30 any time. Chop away.
Would it be heinous to chop apart this AEK2 I just got at goodwill?There were millions of AEK IIs made, and anyone who wants one can get one on ebay for $20–30 any time. Chop away.
Finished my purposed Linear Alps switch opening tool. Had to revise it once, but now it's a one-handed one press switch opener. You can seriously open dozens of switches in seconds this way.Awesome work. I can't wait to try and make one myself.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tX0vGYX.jpg)
Crappier shot with some more switch types:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/70ZBxak.jpg)
More shots below:MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/2rjlXgZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y8lkHxN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GCiSVOB.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Sq0Tyam.jpg)
If I could find out what kind of plastic this is, I could order some sheets of it and start making tools for people that would like one! :D
These are seriously amazing. I used to HATE opening Alps switches. I'd use toothpicks and it was just so tedious and the picks would eventually wear out or break, the tips would splinter...
This is just so quick and simple. I can see a lot more spring, tactile leaf/click leaf, housing, and slider experimentation with these.
It was directly inspired by Sandy's golf scoring pencil tool.
Finished my purposed Linear Alps switch opening tool. Had to revise it once, but now it's a one-handed one press switch opener. You can seriously open dozens of switches in seconds this way.Awesome work. I can't wait to try and make one myself.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tX0vGYX.jpg)
Crappier shot with some more switch types:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/70ZBxak.jpg)
More shots below:MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/2rjlXgZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y8lkHxN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GCiSVOB.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Sq0Tyam.jpg)
If I could find out what kind of plastic this is, I could order some sheets of it and start making tools for people that would like one! :D
These are seriously amazing. I used to HATE opening Alps switches. I'd use toothpicks and it was just so tedious and the picks would eventually wear out or break, the tips would splinter...
This is just so quick and simple. I can see a lot more spring, tactile leaf/click leaf, housing, and slider experimentation with these.
Somewhat unrelated, but that brown Alps click leaf, is it two-piece? I've never seen that before.
Lol I knew they looked familiar. Just a ball mark repair tool :P
Would it be heinous to chop apart this AEK2 I just got at goodwill?There were millions of AEK IIs made, and anyone who wants one can get one on ebay for $20–30 any time. Chop away.
Is that your new project bro? I see in the last picture that it supposed to use blue alps right? :pShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/897848a4fee3e77a4da70060a7a55c3e.jpg)
Bent my own stabilizer for the right shift XD. Made from a paper clip and a bit of patience with needle nose pliers.
You should try piano wire, bends perfectly.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/897848a4fee3e77a4da70060a7a55c3e.jpg)
Bent my own stabilizer for the right shift XD. Made from a paper clip and a bit of patience with needle nose pliers.
Is that your new project bro? I see in the last picture that it supposed to use blue alps right? :p
I have a question about alps stabilizer, Where can you buy them?
You should try piano wire, bends perfectly.
Any recommended sources for piano wire? Amazon?I found some at HobbyTown USA.
Any recommended sources for piano wire? Amazon?
Any recommended sources for piano wire? Amazon?
The local mafia
My fingers no longer get as tired as I did before, but I'm starting to feel it more in my wrists even though I have quite good posture when typing for extended periods.How long is an “extended period”? You shouldn’t be feeling anything in your wrists from typing.
My fingers no longer get as tired as I did before, but I'm starting to feel it more in my wrists even though I have quite good posture when typing for extended periods.How long is an “extended period”? You shouldn’t be feeling anything in your wrists from typing.
Maybe take a picture/video of yourself typing?
I actually don't feel it much now, maybe it was mind games.
I don't have a cable to connect my phone to my PC, but I type in a self-taught sort of way, I only use three fingers (x2 index and right middle finger) not counting my left thumb that I use for space bar.
I actually don't feel it much now, maybe it was mind games.
I don't have a cable to connect my phone to my PC, but I type in a self-taught sort of way, I only use three fingers (x2 index and right middle finger) not counting my left thumb that I use for space bar.
I finally tried SKCM White in an Acer 6011 the other day thanks to a trade I'm doing for some assembly services (along with some brown tactile Alps).
Since I've had 6 or so blue Alps boards before this, I have to say that I was spoiled. White Alps are okay. Not bad, but they just aren't as smooth as blue Alps, and that's down to the click leaf itself. It is more tactile than the blue Alps leaf, which is the main difference when it comes to feel. Blue Alps are smoother because of that.
I tried putting an SKCM white slider and click leaf into an SKCM orange housing with an orange spring and it felt very much like blues, but the click leaf was keeping it from being as smooth as blues.
I actually don't feel it much now, maybe it was mind games.
I don't have a cable to connect my phone to my PC, but I type in a self-taught sort of way, I only use three fingers (x2 index and right middle finger) not counting my left thumb that I use for space bar.
I finally tried SKCM White in an Acer 6011 the other day thanks to a trade I'm doing for some assembly services (along with some brown tactile Alps).
Since I've had 6 or so blue Alps boards before this, I have to say that I was spoiled. White Alps are okay. Not bad, but they just aren't as smooth as blue Alps, and that's down to the click leaf itself. It is more tactile than the blue Alps leaf, which is the main difference when it comes to feel. Blue Alps are smoother because of that.
I tried putting an SKCM white slider and click leaf into an SKCM orange housing with an orange spring and it felt very much like blues, but the click leaf was keeping it from being as smooth as blues.
Is the click leaf the same? Could you just bend the tactile leaf back so it's not as tactile?
Is the click leaf the same? Could you just bend the tactile leaf back so it's not as tactile?
I have bad luck opening ALPS switches, even when I put them back together properly I keep killing the tactility and click,You’re not putting them back together properly, in that case. (Edit: or I suppose you could have bent the leaf out of shape while it was outside of the switch. You have to be careful with these little metal leaf springs.)
Acer 6311 isn't Alps, it's Acer switch. No such thing as clicky greens. Browns are extremely hard to find, much less in an ANSI layout. Blues are also hard to find and very expensive, with very few keyboards (e.g. Leading Edge DC-3014) having an ANSI layout. Whites are very common and so would be your best bet, you could get them ANSI in boards like the Focus FK series.
As for keycaps, about the only board guaranteed to have dyesubs in a near-ANSI layout is the AEK and AEK II.
That Microterm [...]Two cream switches under the spacebar? People used to have ridiculous thumbs.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/urQjV7f.jpg)
Whatchyou talkin bout foo, the AT101 dyesubs are great! Thick, beautiful, and made by the same people as the SGI's!Acer 6311 isn't Alps, it's Acer switch. No such thing as clicky greens. Browns are extremely hard to find, much less in an ANSI layout. Blues are also hard to find and very expensive, with very few keyboards (e.g. Leading Edge DC-3014) having an ANSI layout. Whites are very common and so would be your best bet, you could get them ANSI in boards like the Focus FK series.
As for keycaps, about the only board guaranteed to have dyesubs in a near-ANSI layout is the AEK and AEK II.
The SGI AT101s always have lovely dyesubs, unlike the Dells.
Whatchyou talkin bout foo, the AT101 dyesubs are great! Thick, beautiful, and made by the same people as the SGI's!
Whatchyou talkin bout foo, the AT101 dyesubs are great! Thick, beautiful, and made by the same people as the SGI's!
Haha yeah the Silitek-made lasered ones aren't quite as nice xD .Whatchyou talkin bout foo, the AT101 dyesubs are great! Thick, beautiful, and made by the same people as the SGI's!
I think he meant to imply that SGI keys are always dye sub while Dells are not always dyesub, not that one is better than another. ;)
Among Alps dyesubs, the ones on the Dell AT101 are pretty much the most mediocre. The keycaps themselves are nice though.
Whatchyou talkin bout foo, the AT101 dyesubs are great! Thick, beautiful, and made by the same people as the SGI's!
I think he meant to imply that SGI keys are always dye sub while Dells are not always dyesub, not that one is better than another. ;)
i want a keyboard with Dyesubs and a at101 layout, what options do i have?
what i got so far:
acer 6311
sgi granite/iris
some dell at101
i also want some browns,clicky greens, clicky whites or clicky blues.
If my preference and keycaps could be included in 1 keyboard, id be a happy panda.
Are buckling springs and White Complicated ALPS comparable at all?No.
i want a keyboard with Dyesubs and a at101 layout, what options do i have?
what i got so far:
acer 6311
sgi granite/iris
some dell at101
i also want some browns,clicky greens, clicky whites or clicky blues.
If my preference and keycaps could be included in 1 keyboard, id be a happy panda.
Matias Tactile Pro is a 103-layout which is 101-layout plus an extra Fn and Windows key.
Are buckling springs and White Complicated ALPS comparable at all?Well... what’s the frame of reference?
A taste of what is to come :D The lights shall shine!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FmfumAJ.jpg)
Bonus:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eS4AvPF.jpg)
A taste of what is to come :D The lights shall shine!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FmfumAJ.jpg)
Bonus:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eS4AvPF.jpg)
Wow, keeping it classy with the old school red LED look? Sick man. You know, the Xerox boards actually have green LEDs. I wonder how many variations there were. I've mainly seen red ones.
Very nice. Can't wait to see it. Good cap choice as well for that retro look. :D Switch tester is looking mighty fine too! :thumb:
A taste of what is to come :D The lights shall shine!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FmfumAJ.jpg)
Bonus:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eS4AvPF.jpg)
Wow, keeping it classy with the old school red LED look? Sick man. You know, the Xerox boards actually have green LEDs. I wonder how many variations there were. I've mainly seen red ones.
Very nice. Can't wait to see it. Good cap choice as well for that retro look. :D Switch tester is looking mighty fine too! :thumb:
I believe there was only red and green as options. Compared to the original leds the new one defiantly look darker.
Hit the nail on the head, wanted to keep it looking classic alps plus I think a red glow goes nice with Dolch. The caps look darker irl.
The tester is good but needs a couple more switches to make it great. Particularly both those whites are dampened :p Haven't actually tried bog standard SKCM Whites.
What linear switches came with the Xerox?
It would be interesting if the 6085s had browns. Would be the start of some evidence that green actually succeeded brown, for which there is no clear evidence atm.
I'm getting the Browns from a board that's almost identical to the board that Nubbinator has
http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/xerox-with-tactile-green-alps-t8461.html
I better start desoldering, cleaning and lubing them up
[IMAGE BELOW]
The board also has these funky half sized switches too
[IMAGE BELOW]
I sometimes wonder about the sanity of early Alps board manufacturers. I received two Texas Instruments boards with SKCL Greens, but randomly there are two switches with SKCM Browns. :confused:Hahahaha wat xD .
And it's on both boards so it's not like this was a maintenance thing. Very strange.
Question regarding keycaps: What's the best way to shave keycap stems to make them easier to fit and remove from ALPS switches? Or should I not do that and just stick to wiggling (for hours)?
Question regarding keycaps: What's the best way to shave keycap stems to make them easier to fit and remove from ALPS switches? Or should I not do that and just stick to wiggling (for hours)?
DO NOT wiggle your caps. You will break a stem and then you will be sad.
IME, most of the holding power on an Alps stem comes from the corners. I've found that shaving a bit of material off of two adjacent corners is all it takes to make Alps a little easier to work with. I usually shave the two rear corners, as shown below:
[...]
I'm thinking of dissecting my FK-2001 and moving the switches to TKL, but need to get some soldering equipment.
Will this $13 solder gun and a solder sucker I bought on Amazon work good enough?
I'm going to start calling you Fohat the Intercessor--always pleading for the survival of vintage boards.I'm thinking of dissecting my FK-2001 and moving the switches to TKL, but need to get some soldering equipment.
Will this $13 solder gun and a solder sucker I bought on Amazon work good enough?
You did not show a link but the answer is probably "yes"
Better equipment always makes for faster and easier work, but I have done several transplants with shabby cheap old soldering tools. Now I have marginally better but still decidedly low-end gear.
You should leave the Focus alone, those are decent enough boards. If you are going to the trouble to transplant many dozens of switches, you should make a proper project of it and take really good switches from a really bad board and put them into something worthwhile.
I'm going to start calling you Fohat the Intercessor--always pleading for the survival of vintage boards.I'm thinking of dissecting my FK-2001 and moving the switches to TKL, but need to get some soldering equipment.
Will this $13 solder gun and a solder sucker I bought on Amazon work good enough?
You did not show a link but the answer is probably "yes"
Better equipment always makes for faster and easier work, but I have done several transplants with shabby cheap old soldering tools. Now I have marginally better but still decidedly low-end gear.
You should leave the Focus alone, those are decent enough boards. If you are going to the trouble to transplant many dozens of switches, you should make a proper project of it and take really good switches from a really bad board and put them into something worthwhile.
Yes, I think that would probably be me :p . And ripping up a 2001 is heresy! :pI'm going to start calling you Fohat the Intercessor--always pleading for the survival of vintage boards.I'm thinking of dissecting my FK-2001 and moving the switches to TKL, but need to get some soldering equipment.
Will this $13 solder gun and a solder sucker I bought on Amazon work good enough?
You did not show a link but the answer is probably "yes"
Better equipment always makes for faster and easier work, but I have done several transplants with shabby cheap old soldering tools. Now I have marginally better but still decidedly low-end gear.
You should leave the Focus alone, those are decent enough boards. If you are going to the trouble to transplant many dozens of switches, you should make a proper project of it and take really good switches from a really bad board and put them into something worthwhile.
I think that would be Chryos
Yes, I think that would probably be me :p . And ripping up a 2001 is heresy! :pI'm going to start calling you Fohat the Intercessor--always pleading for the survival of vintage boards.I'm thinking of dissecting my FK-2001 and moving the switches to TKL, but need to get some soldering equipment.
Will this $13 solder gun and a solder sucker I bought on Amazon work good enough?
You did not show a link but the answer is probably "yes"
Better equipment always makes for faster and easier work, but I have done several transplants with shabby cheap old soldering tools. Now I have marginally better but still decidedly low-end gear.
You should leave the Focus alone, those are decent enough boards. If you are going to the trouble to transplant many dozens of switches, you should make a proper project of it and take really good switches from a really bad board and put them into something worthwhile.
I think that would be Chryos
Chyros is the big softie.
Fohat is the eternal pragmatist.
Yoe is the retro artist.
Chyros is the big softie.
Fohat is the eternal pragmatist.
Yoe is the retro artist.
So where does that leave me? :P
Chyros is the big softie.
Fohat is the eternal pragmatist.
Yoe is the retro artist.
The seeker of Alps
So where does that leave me? :P
Chyros is the big softie.
Fohat is the eternal pragmatist.
Yoe is the retro artist.
So where does that leave me? :P
A taste of what is to come :D The lights shall shine!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FmfumAJ.jpg)
Bonus:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eS4AvPF.jpg)
Wow, keeping it classy with the old school red LED look? Sick man. You know, the Xerox boards actually have green LEDs. I wonder how many variations there were. I've mainly seen red ones.
Very nice. Can't wait to see it. Good cap choice as well for that retro look. :D Switch tester is looking mighty fine too! :thumb:
I believe there was only red and green as options. Compared to the original leds the new one defiantly look darker.
Hit the nail on the head, wanted to keep it looking classic alps plus I think a red glow goes nice with Dolch. The caps look darker irl.
The tester is good but needs a couple more switches to make it great. Particularly both those whites are dampened :p Haven't actually tried bog standard SKCM Whites.
What linear switches came with the Xerox?
I would not be surprised if only red and green were available, actually. Yep, that's a n ice look man. Sounds good to me.
I might be able to spare some whites if I desolder this Acer 6011 I have, but I'm not sure ATM. After so many blue Alps boards, it was my first white SKCM, so of course I didn't think it was so spectacular. Not bad, but I'm probably just spoiled on blues.
For the Docutech boards, they came around in 1990, which is a bit past the last years of Alps SKCL Green, so the switches used are actually SKCL Yellows. Even on the later bamboo models, the yellow switch housings have slits (pine).
I think their predecessor, the look-alike 6085 keyboards probably used green SKCL for the caps (with brown SKCM on alphas). Of course the half-switches at top are Alps SKCL :)
So what's your favorite switch so far?
It would be interesting if the 6085s had browns. Would be the start of some evidence that green actually succeeded brown, for which there is no clear evidence atm.
There is one! By a stroke of amazing coincidence, MAR82 found a 6085 board and it indeed had brown taciles. Let me dig up the post. This definitely lends to evidence that Brown SKCM and Neon Green SKCM are indeed related. Though with their very similar tactile leaf shape, it's hard to imagine how they could not be related.
Someone has speculated that the Neon Green switch was specially commissioned by Xerox since it has been yet to be found in any other board.
So here's MAR82's board:I'm getting the Browns from a board that's almost identical to the board that Nubbinator has
http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/xerox-with-tactile-green-alps-t8461.html
I better start desoldering, cleaning and lubing them up
[IMAGE BELOW]
The board also has these funky half sized switches too
[IMAGE BELOW]Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DGB19WH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GrV1BOb.jpg)
Additional images:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/68m7a9i.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cdb30nh.jpg)
One interesting difference between the Docutech and 6085 keyboard aside from switches and the graphics above the top function keys on the Docutech is that the Caps Lock key on the 6085 seems to be a doubleshot key whereas on the key on the Docutech is PBT with a clear window held in place by plastic rivets.
That looks like pretty good evidence to me. SKCM Neon Green is what SKCM Black is to Salmon expect with SKCM Browns. And like SKCM Black there is a 'early' version with slits.Yeah, not really :p . But it's a tiny, tiny start :p .
That looks like pretty good evidence to me. SKCM Neon Green is what SKCM Black is to Salmon expect with SKCM Browns. And like SKCM Black there is a 'early' version with slits.The earliest tactile green switches date from the salmon-slider era. Brown switches are earlier, from the blue/orange/green “tall switchplate” era.
Right in the middle, you are willing to tear apart a board for its guts and glory, yet you sometimes have sympathy.
That would be amazing if you could get a SKCM White.
Ah, SKCL Yellow makes sense. Favorite would be SKCM Blue but for budget reasons SKCM Orange is my daily. Orange is a seriously underrated switch imo. Next to the best!
My idea with the switch tester is that once I get enough switches I would send it on a tour. I think it would be a great for the community. The more interest their is in Alps the better. I mean, you are one of the very few who has tried SKCL Brown. If we (the community/people in this thread) worked together we could create the ultimate Alps switch tester. Just a thought.
That looks like pretty good evidence to me. SKCM Neon Green is what SKCM Black is to Salmon expect with SKCM Browns. And like SKCM Black there is a 'early' version with slits.
I think you’re right though that they are the same concept.
Practically, however, there is a much larger difference between brown and green tactile switches than there is between orange/salmon/black switches. The brown switches are significantly stiffer.
The thick plastic part of that SKCM Brown leaf is obviously a big reason why it feels so rigid. SKCM Neon Greens are a simplified and much more practical design.Nah, it’s not the plastic. The difference is that the brown leaf is a stiffer piece of metal. It’s been a while since I opened one, I can’t remember if the material seems different, or if it’s just thicker.
Nah, it’s not the plastic. The difference is that the brown leaf is a stiffer piece of metal. It’s been a while since I opened one, I can’t remember if the material seems different, or if it’s just thicker.
IIRC the spring is also pretty stiff, but I tried swapping in a lighter spring and it didn’t make as much difference as I hoped.
Could I fix the switches that don't click with internals from Matias switches? (complicated whites)No. Matias switch insides are more like SKBM (simplified) Alps. Not sure if they're directly interchangeable with SKBM or not, but they are definitely not compatible with SKCM/SKCL switches. Even the upper housings are different on the inside.
i want a keyboard with Dyesubs and a at101 layout, what options do i have?
what i got so far:
acer 6311
sgi granite/iris
some dell at101
i also want some browns,clicky greens, clicky whites or clicky blues.
If my preference and keycaps could be included in 1 keyboard, id be a happy panda.
Are buckling springs and White Complicated ALPS comparable at all?Nah. BS imo is the best click switch hands down and I adore my Blue Alps
A taste of what is to come :D The lights shall shine!Wow those LEDs look cray. Can't wait to see the whole build.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FmfumAJ.jpg)
Bonus:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eS4AvPF.jpg)
Could I fix the switches that don't click with internals from Matias switches? (complicated whites)
Question regarding keycaps: What's the best way to shave keycap stems to make them easier to fit and remove from ALPS switches? Or should I not do that and just stick to wiggling (for hours)?
DO NOT wiggle your caps. You will break a stem and then you will be sad.
IME, most of the holding power on an Alps stem comes from the corners. I've found that shaving a bit of material off of two adjacent corners is all it takes to make Alps a little easier to work with. I usually shave the two rear corners, as shown below:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YsWQLX6.jpg)
I use a utility knife, but an X-acto might be easier to work with if you have one handy. I've done this on entire sets of Tai Hao and SP Alps caps, and so far I haven't had any trouble with caps being too loose or anything, so I would recommend going through the effort.
Could I fix the switches that don't click with internals from Matias switches? (complicated whites)No. Matias switch insides are more like SKBM (simplified) Alps. Not sure if they're directly interchangeable with SKBM or not, but they are definitely not compatible with SKCM/SKCL switches. Even the upper housings are different on the inside.
I have bad luck opening ALPS switches, even when I put them back together properly I keep killing the tactility and click, four are completely linear and I magically morphed one into what feels like a Topre switch.This is almost certainly just a case of improper reassembly. If you take the switches back apart you can very likely get them back to normal by putting them back together the way they were originally, instead of whatever weird way they’re currently assembled.
This is becuase my cat pulled the cable and the entire keyboard fell with some of the switches opened.Okay, fair enough...
I just need some replacement click leafs and springs, are there any really crappy cheap boards that use complicated alps?There are usually a few white Alps boards on ebay in the $15–20 range.
That's awesome. Are those holes just for machine setup or do they serve a purpose on the tool?Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160303/60afeb45c494f7341bb8f02388f534bc.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160303/99f2ba29698563f5f1e8fd15f2202724.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160303/649674861950f9219ea8cd5f52c89f14.jpg)
Just for holding the part during machining. But they could be used for a string to hang it or something.That's awesome. Are those holes just for machine setup or do they serve a purpose on the tool?Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160303/60afeb45c494f7341bb8f02388f534bc.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160303/99f2ba29698563f5f1e8fd15f2202724.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160303/649674861950f9219ea8cd5f52c89f14.jpg)
**** me, that looks good. Do they work well and how did you make it?
I'd definitely be in for one, preferably acrylic :D .**** me, that looks good. Do they work well and how did you make it?
not trying to detour the thread but i have a build log in my signature.
however to answer the question. yes they work. :D I own a small hobby CNC, i designed and machined them. i am making 5 in this batch and they will be sold with a percentage going to GH. i also have acrylic ones.
Just won one of these in a Japan auction. Could be linear SKCL Greens or Grays... And look at those caps. :))Show Image(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vhPoD6fx5AI/UyGxb84h8TI/AAAAAAAABmE/M-YkyWaf5mA/s1600/IMG_2928.jpg)
Just won one of these in a Japan auction. Could be linear SKCL Greens or Grays... And look at those caps. :))Show Image(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vhPoD6fx5AI/UyGxb84h8TI/AAAAAAAABmE/M-YkyWaf5mA/s1600/IMG_2928.jpg)
Just won one of these in a Japan auction. Could be linear SKCL Greens or Grays... And look at those caps. :))Show Image(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vhPoD6fx5AI/UyGxb84h8TI/AAAAAAAABmE/M-YkyWaf5mA/s1600/IMG_2928.jpg)
The Japanese loved their linears!
Is this even a real keyboard? It looks like it could be a lapel pin. :confused:
Just won one of these in a Japan auction. Could be linear SKCL Greens or Grays... And look at those caps. :))Show Image(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vhPoD6fx5AI/UyGxb84h8TI/AAAAAAAABmE/M-YkyWaf5mA/s1600/IMG_2928.jpg)
i need some double shot kanji/en caps in my life
i need some double shot kanji/en caps in my life
I dunno about doubleshots by I'll have a bunch of dyesub JIS/EN coming my way soon.
:eek:
sweet
all i have is Cherry MX boards right now. i'm kinda liking alps tho now that ive had a chance to play with them. i need to find a retailer for the switches.
where do you get your JIS/EN caps from?
:eek:
sweet
all i have is Cherry MX boards right now. i'm kinda liking alps tho now that ive had a chance to play with them. i need to find a retailer for the switches.
where do you get your JIS/EN caps from?
http://auctions.search.yahoo.co.jp/search?p=%E3%82%AD%E3%83%BC%E3%83%9C%E3%83%BC%E3%83%89+apple+extended&aq=-1&oq=&x=0&y=0&ei=UTF-8&tab_ex=commerce&auccat=&slider=0
So I finally got a chance to play with some Orange Alps today. I took everything apart, dusted, and finally lubed springs and contact points with Krytox 106.
Comparing to dampened cream, I am not impressed at all. Orange has a harsher landing sound than Cream, it also feels a bit wobbly as it bounces back up. The Oranges were also in pretty bad shapes compared to the Creams. I wonder if anyone else has the same experience or my Oranges are just terrible beyond repair. I also have yet to experience any Salmon, I would love to hear some thought on Salmon vs. Cream.
So I finally got a chance to play with some Orange Alps today. I took everything apart, dusted, and finally lubed springs and contact points with Krytox 106.
Comparing to dampened cream, I am not impressed at all. Orange has a harsher landing sound than Cream, it also feels a bit wobbly as it bounces back up. The Oranges were also in pretty bad shapes compared to the Creams. I wonder if anyone else has the same experience or my Oranges are just terrible beyond repair. I also have yet to experience any Salmon, I would love to hear some thought on Salmon vs. Cream.
As far as I know you aren't supposed to lube the springs and you aren't supposed to use oil lube. Could that be causing your problems? I can't imagine anything worse than creams.
So after poking around a bit more I found that my Oranges were so terrible in condition that my initial cleaning wasn't good enough. About 60% of them were inconsistent and sandy when press. The good ones are definitely better than Cream. I am currently soaking the housings in water. For the metal contacts and springs I will brush them with isopropyl alcohol. Hopefully that will be good enough to restore these Orange switches to their original glory.
So after poking around a bit more I found that my Oranges were so terrible in condition that my initial cleaning wasn't good enough. About 60% of them were inconsistent and sandy when press.
So after poking around a bit more I found that my Oranges were so terrible in condition that my initial cleaning wasn't good enough. About 60% of them were inconsistent and sandy when press.
The problem is dust/grit stuck between the slider and the top housing. If the dust was there while the keyboard sat unused, then you might be able to fix it by getting the dust all back out. Start by blasting compressed air into the top housing, before getting anything wet. After that, the best tool is probably an ultrasonic cleaner, but you could maybe get a reasonable improvement with a q-tip (maybe soaked in alcohol?).
If the keyboard was used much while being full of grit, then there will be physical abrasion to the plastic, and I don’t think there’s too much you can do. I had some scratchy Alps switches that I couldn’t figure out any way to fix.
* * *
It’s much easier to just find keyswitches which are in good condition to begin with.
In my experience, Orange > Salmon > Cream Damped. I've never tried non-damped tactile Creams but I do like linear Creams (if a bit heavy).
And thanks Hoggy!
P.S. Anyone who is interested in my incoming packages from Japan due to wanting keycaps, boards, etc., you can view it in my sig. :thumb:
For anyone with an Alps board, would you mind just letting me know what caps are on your board so I can make a mod set?I have over 20 Alps boards and additional Alps-mount ones but I constantly rotate boards so the only one I use at least once a week is my old-logo AT101 with dyesub ABS caps, which is my office board. Most of my other Alps boards have doubleshot ABS caps, although I also have dyesub PBT, dyesub ABS, lasered ABS, rimless pad-printed ABS and rimmed pad-printed ABS.
Please use this Google order form (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1_-1jtE8Qo-h4jp8IVNdlYgxGpWqmTgtvAv1f-Bu3Nog/viewform).
"I have no proof it works, so I just want to sit it on my desk."This is why I hate eBay.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/v5AtfQ9.png)
"I have no proof it works, so I just want to sit it on my desk."Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/v5AtfQ9.png)
If you didn't get the option before, you can now set an automatic decline option.
If you didn't get the option before, you can now set an automatic decline option.
If you persevere during the original listing, you can defeat the "entertain offers" button - but it is not easy.
Sometimes, after clicking on it 10-20 times, it will go away. Other times, you have to leave it, go fiddle with some later settings, and come back to it. As a last resort, list it, then go back to "edit" your listing and you can probably turn it off then.
It will go away, but you really have to work at it. And you should, because if you decline offers near the selling price then some ignorant buyers will be irritated to think that you are teasing them.
If you persevere during the original listing, you can defeat the "entertain offers" button - but it is not easy.
Sometimes, after clicking on it 10-20 times, it will go away. Other times, you have to leave it, go fiddle with some later settings, and come back to it. As a last resort, list it, then go back to "edit" your listing and you can probably turn it off then.
It will go away, but you really have to work at it. And you should, because if you decline offers near the selling price then some ignorant buyers will be irritated to think that you are teasing them.
So uh I've been wondering to switche from standard layout to ergodox cause my fingers are starting to hurt when using a standard layout keyboard :'
But the problem is I want to make an alps ergodox cause I love alps switches.
The problem is I missed the buy :'(So uh I've been wondering to switche from standard layout to ergodox cause my fingers are starting to hurt when using a standard layout keyboard :'
But the problem is I want to make an alps ergodox cause I love alps switches.
Why wouldn't you order an Infinity Ergodox without switches so you can use your favorite ones?
I ordered one with Matias Quiet Click and DSA blank keycaps. I don't like DSA profile but I am waiting for Matias to release their forthcoming colorful keysets so I can fully enjoy the experience.
The problem is I missed the buy :'(
Alps bottom housing and contact leaf are changeable right?
Edit : sorry for double post
Yeah thank you E3E so I can swap SKCM Blue bottom housing to SKCM Orange right?Alps bottom housing and contact leaf are changeable right?
Edit : sorry for double post
No, not all of them are. You cannot put a long contact plate into a housing meant for short contact plates like from SKCM Orange to SKCM Salmon. Vise versa, and the short plate would not be properly stabilized as the newer housings have pegs to make up for the shorter length.
Now, yes, you could, say, put a blue Alps top housing in a salmon bottom housing. No idea how that would change the feel though. I'll have to check right now. :P
Okay, so I swapped a blue Alps top housing, slider, and click leaf into a salmon bottom housing. I then scrambled it between three other blue Alps switches. I was able to pick the salmon one out.
Its click was a bit louder but the feel is otherwise the same, I'd say. Kind of makes sense, considering the space is more open in the housing of a salmon switch thanks to having a short contact plate. Actually, the switch felt a slight bit stiffer, almost like white Alps.
Now, I swapped SKCM Blue into an SKCM Orange housing and the feel was exactly the same. Contact plate length seems to certainly affect feel.
Yeah thank you E3E so I can swap SKCM Blue bottom housing to SKCM Orange right?Alps bottom housing and contact leaf are changeable right?
Edit : sorry for double post
No, not all of them are. You cannot put a long contact plate into a housing meant for short contact plates like from SKCM Orange to SKCM Salmon. Vise versa, and the short plate would not be properly stabilized as the newer housings have pegs to make up for the shorter length.
Now, yes, you could, say, put a blue Alps top housing in a salmon bottom housing. No idea how that would change the feel though. I'll have to check right now. :P
Okay, so I swapped a blue Alps top housing, slider, and click leaf into a salmon bottom housing. I then scrambled it between three other blue Alps switches. I was able to pick the salmon one out.
Its click was a bit louder but the feel is otherwise the same, I'd say. Kind of makes sense, considering the space is more open in the housing of a salmon switch thanks to having a short contact plate. Actually, the switch felt a slight bit stiffer, almost like white Alps.
Now, I swapped SKCM Blue into an SKCM Orange housing and the feel was exactly the same. Contact plate length seems to certainly affect feel.
I stuffed all of the empty room in the keyboard with rolls of dense paper towels, the result is that the keyboard feels a little heavier, and the typing sound is marginally more deep and sounds more "click clunk"
Also as a side question, has anyone heard of that pc brand? the desktop is the same brand but google says it doesn't exist, I can't find info on it anywhere.
I got the Matias switches today, just from testing the switches individually I kind of like them more than the actual alps, they feel snappier, lighter, and smoother.
however they do sound more hollow and plasticy.
I got the Matias switches today, just from testing the switches individually I kind of like them more than the actual alps, they feel snappier, lighter, and smoother.
however they do sound more hollow and plasticy.
I got the Matias switches today, just from testing the switches individually I kind of like them more than the actual alps, they feel snappier, lighter, and smoother.
however they do sound more hollow and plasticy.
How about swapping them into genuine complicated Alps housings? That'll likely eliminate the hollowness. Well, if you put them in a switch with a long switchplate like SKCM Orange. The short switch plate varieties also feel and sound a bit more hollow.
Also as a side question, has anyone heard of that pc brand? the desktop is the same brand but google says it doesn't exist, I can't find info on it anywhere.
PC Direct was a US "economy clone" maker in the mid-late 1980s. There were several companies that followed Michael Dell (aka PC's LTD back then) into the IBM-PC-clone market - including the delightfully-named "Famous Maker" brand:
- "Hey, I know where you can buy a famous maker PC for cheap!"
My first computer was a PC's LTD 80286 that cost just under $3K and did not include a printer. At that point the keyboard was one of the peripherals that you bought as a separate component to complete your rig.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g6VCflD.jpg)
Done her restoration, finally. My Datapoint-branded Acer KB101A :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TMQLI0C.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z0WPlIg.jpg)
Don't have to use her like this anymore:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0xcXuSS.jpg)
Nice board, but I really don't know what of all my vintage blue Alps boards is my favorite, heh.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g6VCflD.jpg)
Done her restoration, finally. My Datapoint-branded Acer KB101A :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TMQLI0C.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z0WPlIg.jpg)
Don't have to use her like this anymore:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0xcXuSS.jpg)
Nice board, but I really don't know what of all my vintage blue Alps boards is my favorite, heh.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g6VCflD.jpg)
Done her restoration, finally. My Datapoint-branded Acer KB101A :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TMQLI0C.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z0WPlIg.jpg)
Don't have to use her like this anymore:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0xcXuSS.jpg)
Nice board, but I really don't know what of all my vintage blue Alps boards is my favorite, heh.
Man you got all the goodies. Leading Edge DC 3014? Damn. You have so much SKCM Blue you wouldn't know what to do with it lol. How much do ya think you have spent on keyboards so far?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g6VCflD.jpg)
Done her restoration, finally. My Datapoint-branded Acer KB101A :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TMQLI0C.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z0WPlIg.jpg)
Don't have to use her like this anymore:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0xcXuSS.jpg)
Nice board, but I really don't know what of all my vintage blue Alps boards is my favorite, heh.
Man you got all the goodies. Leading Edge DC 3014? Damn. You have so much SKCM Blue you wouldn't know what to do with it lol. How much do ya think you have spent on keyboards so far?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g6VCflD.jpg)
Done her restoration, finally. My Datapoint-branded Acer KB101A :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TMQLI0C.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z0WPlIg.jpg)
Don't have to use her like this anymore:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0xcXuSS.jpg)
Nice board, but I really don't know what of all my vintage blue Alps boards is my favorite, heh.
Man you got all the goodies. Leading Edge DC 3014? Damn. You have so much SKCM Blue you wouldn't know what to do with it lol. How much do ya think you have spent on keyboards so far?
That's like asking a woman if they're pregnant!
I may of accidentally fried this board or at least the ships on it as while trying to repair the desktop its paired with I put voltage into some wires it shouldn't go and now throws up an error and doesn't respond.
So if I did kill it my question is, is it worth trying to repair? The circuit board looks like I can just cut the traces and solder to the switches. I saw some cheap keyboard controllers around.
Is it worth my time or are the switches weak, old or cheap to be worth it?
Man you got all the goodies. Leading Edge DC 3014? Damn. You have so much SKCM Blue you wouldn't know what to do with it lol. How much do ya think you have spent on keyboards so far?
@E3E could you also post the sounds of skcm browns and skcl browns? I'm really interested on those 2 switches
Man you got all the goodies. Leading Edge DC 3014? Damn. You have so much SKCM Blue you wouldn't know what to do with it lol. How much do ya think you have spent on keyboards so far?
It took me a while to get them, but I worked smart, not stupidly expensive. The most expensive blue Alps board I got was $123 for a dinky Monterey K101 103, and it's not even that great. The price was thanks to the EMS shipping rate from China.
The cheapest boards have been $85 for a Leading Edge DC-2014 and $89 for the Leading Edge DC-3014 and $89 again for the Datapoint Acer KB101A. Otherwise, it's been $100 on average for every blue Alps board I own. So kind of pricy, but not ridiculously so.
Started with the NTC 6151N, then got the DC-2014, then got the FAME TH-5539, then the Monterey K101 103 (the back label is confusing), then the Leading Edge DC-3014, then the Focus FK-555, and finally the Acer KB101A. I'm also getting a Focus FK-2001, but it's going to be scrapped (it's just the PCB and plate and has missing caps-got it for $25) and is going to go into the Orion v2. My Orion v2 will likely go between Alps SKCM Blues and Alps SKCL (linear) Browns.
I wanted to put my Alps SKCM Neon Greens (or Lime, or Tactile Greens) in the Orion v2, but after restoring the keyboards, I just couldn't.
I've spent at least $2000 in this hobby so far; I'm not sure how much exactly. I try to be as frugal as possible.
Here's some typing videos of the Xerox keyboard with SKCM Green:
They are definitely my favorite Alps boards right now. Such nice caps, the switches feel nice on both early and old models, and the look is just so sleek and it's more slimline than any other vintage I've dealt with which is just so cool.
My FAME keyboard is my favorite, but that is because I personalized it and that made it very dear to me. If we're talking stock, then these take the cake.
The total net amount of money I've spent on keyboards, converters, boxes, switches, pullers, soldering gear, tools, etc. is about £60, although I should be in the black again soon. I simply can't afford any more xD .
So if I did kill it my question is, is it worth trying to repair? The circuit board looks like I can just cut the traces and solder to the switches. I saw some cheap keyboard controllers around.
Is it worth my time or are the switches weak, old or cheap to be worth it?
Speaking of Blue Alps, I remember back when they were even cheaper than $85. I got my Samsung branded Chicony 5161 from a Goodwill auction (by accident!) and later sold it for the market price at the time... $60! And that board was in almost perfect condition!
So if I did kill it my question is, is it worth trying to repair? The circuit board looks like I can just cut the traces and solder to the switches. I saw some cheap keyboard controllers around.
Is it worth my time or are the switches weak, old or cheap to be worth it?
That is not a lot of info to go on. Are you talking about the old white Alps keyboard?
There are possibilities, but it may not be worth investing the time and effort unless you know that you really like that particular board.
Controllers are very different, and that thing is probably 25 years old or more.
If you can see what appears to be a localized problem, then maybe you can replace just that area.
I actually (somehow) got it to work again on my main PC
Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate :'( .
Anybody have any idea how I could fix the casing on my Focus?
The clamps on the bottom are broken, so the bottom half of the top shell just kind of hovers and is floppy.
Anybody have any idea how I could fix the casing on my Focus?
The clamps on the bottom are broken, so the bottom half of the top shell just kind of hovers and is floppy.
If you have any scrap ABS around that matches the color, you could weld the plastic and fill any gaps that way. That's the only way you'll get a bond that's strong enough to withstand the kind of stress that tabs handle, I'd say. There are some plastic bonding glues and pastes, but I'm not so sure on their durability.
I fixed some broken tabs on a board by using some ABS sheet, plast-aid pool repair paste that bonds to anything acrylic-based, and plastic welding. It held up okay, but I still never plan on opening the board ever again after that.
I actually have a new idea. It won't look as pretty but it's much easier to work with.This is a mightily ugly fix !
1. Drill a hole through both parts of the keyboard
2. Put a bolt through the keyboard and use some super glue to hold the head of the bolt to the keyboard
3. Put a nut/washer on the part of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the keyboardShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/lfgFquf.png)
I actually have a new idea. It won't look as pretty but it's much easier to work with.This is a mightily ugly fix !
1. Drill a hole through both parts of the keyboard
2. Put a bolt through the keyboard and use some super glue to hold the head of the bolt to the keyboard
3. Put a nut/washer on the part of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the keyboardShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/lfgFquf.png)
I actually (somehow) got it to work again on my main PC
Sometimes we forget that not everything can be hot-plugged like USB.
A PS/2 or older keyboard must be discovered at boot-up.
I actually have a new idea. It won't look as pretty but it's much easier to work with.
1. Drill a hole through both parts of the keyboard
2. Put a bolt through the keyboard and use some super glue to hold the head of the bolt to the keyboard
3. Put a nut/washer on the part of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the keyboardShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/lfgFquf.png)
I actually have a new idea. It won't look as pretty but it's much easier to work with.
1. Drill a hole through both parts of the keyboard
2. Put a bolt through the keyboard and use some super glue to hold the head of the bolt to the keyboard
3. Put a nut/washer on the part of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the keyboardShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/lfgFquf.png)
So I have demik's HHKB with me here and I don't get the "SKCM Orange is the closet switch to Topre" thing at all. There barely similar. By far the closet is SKCM Cream Damp or White Damp. They are 85% Topre. I think the reason I was so harsh toward Damp Alps switches previously is the weight, a 70g Damp switch feels mushy. If Alps had a faster return rate as well then it would be very close to Topre.SKCM Neon Green are closer yet than SKCM Cream Damp. They don't even feel like other Alps switches.
So I have demik's HHKB with me here and I don't get the "SKCM Orange is the closet switch to Topre" thing at all. There barely similar. By far the closet is SKCM Cream Damp or White Damp. They are 85% Topre. I think the reason I was so harsh toward Damp Alps switches previously is the weight, a 70g Damp switch feels mushy. If Alps had a faster return rate as well then it would be very close to Topre.
So I have demik's HHKB with me here and I don't get the "SKCM Orange is the closet switch to Topre" thing at all. There barely similar. By far the closet is SKCM Cream Damp or White Damp. They are 85% Topre. I think the reason I was so harsh toward Damp Alps switches previously is the weight, a 70g Damp switch feels mushy. If Alps had a faster return rate as well then it would be very close to Topre.
I tried both Damped (I call them Dampened, but hey) Cream yesterday as well as Topre, and I personally think that a damped cream slider in a tactile brown or tactile green housing feels most like Topre.
Though I prefer the feeling of Alps to Topre, to be honest, so I'd never make a board with the intent to simulate Topre. The main difference, I think, between the feel Topre and Alps is the bottom out. Hard clacks from bottoming out on Alps, but being rubber, of course Topre has a gentle bottom out. This is why damped Alps switches are part of the equation.
I was also looking at damped cream's tactile leaves, and it looks far sharper than even Alps SKCM Salmon. It's got a lot more tactility. Soon, I'll have a bamboo Black Alps Dell AT101W to compare leaves with to see if damped has its own unique leaf or if it's shared with blacks.
I find damped switches alone to feel like uncoordinated Topre, or what you'd get if you crossed Alps with a rubber dome (Acer switch?). It's not very smooth, it's wobbly because it's Alps.
Mattr, you talk about the return rate. Would this mean an even higher weighted spring would be needed?
EDIT: Just adding a disclaimer that I'm new to both Topre and SKCM Damped Cream, so these are just initial impressions!
Industrial FK-2001!
I'm dead serious, I will post pics when I get the chance. I will fix the clamps and paint it grey.
EDIT:
Instead I might buy a beat up yellowed FK-2001 on Ebay and paint over it instead, so I don't have to fix the damned clamps.
Focus beat ya to it, a completely black FK-2001 exists. See this thread from 5 years ago https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0)
Focus beat ya to it, a completely black FK-2001 exists. See this thread from 5 years ago https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0)
One went on eBay not too long ago, actually, and for hardly anything.Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SbYAAOSwoydWjq3o/s-l1600.jpg)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Black-FOCUS-FK-2001-type-Clicky-Keyboard-AT-XT-Mold-Injected-keys-/252241606418?hash=item3abac57712%3Ag%3ASbYAAOSwoydWjq3o&nma=true&si=9Ba%252FCfHEbEBqYK8fClKFuHZquqs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Industrial FK-2001!
I'm dead serious, I will post pics when I get the chance. I will fix the clamps and paint it grey.
EDIT:
Instead I might buy a beat up yellowed FK-2001 on Ebay and paint over it instead, so I don't have to fix the damned clamps.
Nice, but it's black, I'm talking grey like an Industrial Model M.
Focus beat ya to it, a completely black FK-2001 exists. See this thread from 5 years ago https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0)
After enjoying a KBP V60 with Matias Linears for a couple of months, I just built a 60% Infinity (using Hasu's ALPS64 PCB) with SKCM Orange Alps. It's an absolute joy to type on, and I'm really liking the DSA keycap profile. Here's a pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ptTH6yq.jpg)
Unfortunately, the second-hand keycap set I bought is missing one 1.5u, but PMK will be shipping me a 4 pack soon :D Loving these switches already, especially the sound.
Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.After enjoying a KBP V60 with Matias Linears for a couple of months, I just built a 60% Infinity (using Hasu's ALPS64 PCB) with SKCM Orange Alps. It's an absolute joy to type on, and I'm really liking the DSA keycap profile. Here's a pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ptTH6yq.jpg)
Unfortunately, the second-hand keycap set I bought is missing one 1.5u, but PMK will be shipping me a 4 pack soon :D Loving these switches already, especially the sound.
I didn't know SP made Alps DSA keycaps!
Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.
What about the 6U spacebar? That's not in stock, is it?Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.
Yeah not as a full set unfortunately. But if all you're going for is the Infinity hacker layout, you can build the full set by buying blank key packs from them. If you want a more standard layout though (namely 1.25u and 2.25u keys), then you will be missing pieces.
What about the 6U spacebar? That's not in stock, is it?Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.
Yeah not as a full set unfortunately. But if all you're going for is the Infinity hacker layout, you can build the full set by buying blank key packs from them. If you want a more standard layout though (namely 1.25u and 2.25u keys), then you will be missing pieces.
What about the 6U spacebar? That's not in stock, is it?Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.
Yeah not as a full set unfortunately. But if all you're going for is the Infinity hacker layout, you can build the full set by buying blank key packs from them. If you want a more standard layout though (namely 1.25u and 2.25u keys), then you will be missing pieces.
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dcs-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/
I know some people were asking about the stuff I was preparing to sell, including group 1 of my Japanese stuff. If interested, look here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/blaise170/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
All done! I also cleaned some of the switches and they feel much better now.
Just make sure you clean every part of the switch really. The slider and inner housing is the most important part.
Ha yeah that's one of the ones I just posted a few replies ago. :p I don't know what kind of switches they are but it's clicky which is surprising. I think they might be SKBM Cream which is currently undocumented in the DT wiki. I'm pretty sure they are Alps though. It's an older Alps SKCL Lock switch, as the newer ones used a gray slider. So I'm not really sure what I'm looking at. Don't want to open it up either since it is in such good condition. I thought about keeping it for myself but I went ahead and listed it to see what I'd get.
Ha yeah that's one of the ones I just posted a few replies ago. :p I don't know what kind of switches they are but it's clicky which is surprising. I think they might be SKBM Cream which is currently undocumented in the DT wiki. I'm pretty sure they are Alps though. It's an older Alps SKCL Lock switch, as the newer ones used a gray slider. So I'm not really sure what I'm looking at. Don't want to open it up either since it is in such good condition. I thought about keeping it for myself but I went ahead and listed it to see what I'd get.
Yea, from the pic they look to be SKCM, not anything that makes it obviously look like a clone.
Canon AP500-II typewriter, 1985.
I was expecting SKCM "ivory" switches (earliest tactile SKCM switches, about the same stiffness as salmon switches), as that’s what the ~1986–1987 versions of these typewriters had, but this version turns out to have plate-mounted Alps plate spring (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_plate_spring) switches throughout the main section, with double-acting plate spring switches on the spacebar, return, and back space keys, and a mix of SKCL green and double-acting SKCL switches on the lock key and on the side function keys.
That explains why the later typewriters used a mix of SKCM and double-acting plate spring switches. I assume the switch from plate spring to SKCM was for cost cutting, but maybe someone at Canon or Alps just preferred them.
Keycaps are spherical, mostly doubleshot, with pad printed legends on all the window keys (except the lock key). They were originally white on gray, but now are yellow on brown.
Anyhow, pictures:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5iWnS7d.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hgQLP9F.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/S5MIcOW.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V4uX2jQ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mrhSy63.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CyzssSK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wTkkr0B.jpg)
Bonus keycap profile pic (for more of these, see https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=68550):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ivgULup.jpg)
Unfortunately during shipping, a bunch of the internal typewriter mechanism parts broke. I’m hoping to someday make some custom Alps plate spring keyboards though, so maybe the keyboard bits at least can eventually find a good home.
Quite an exotic mix of switches on that board
You can only wonder: "Why?"This typewriter has a ~170 page manual. It can store several typed pages in memory so you can quickly type out form letters, stores the whole current page so you can go back and correct mistakes, it supports find/replace. You can type e.g. superscripts and subscripts and a variety of exotic characters. Supports spell-check with a 90,000 word dictionary. There are sophisticated table layout tools. The typewriter can be connected to a floppy disk drive or to a computer. And so on.
Eventually I wanna get a Sega Teradrive board. Nice keys and Alps plate spring.Thought that was Alps buckling spring? Oo
You can only wonder: "Why?"This typewriter has a ~170 page manual. It can store several typed pages in memory so you can quickly type out form letters, stores the whole current page so you can go back and correct mistakes, it supports find/replace. You can type e.g. superscripts and subscripts and a variety of exotic characters. Supports spell-check with a 90,000 word dictionary. There are sophisticated table layout tools. The typewriter can be connected to a floppy disk drive or to a computer. And so on.
Here’s an ad: https://books.google.com/books?id=0gv4b-LFdWQC&pg=PA55
They needed all the double-click and LED keys to support various advanced functionality. Keep in mind, in the early 1980s, there was a competitive market for typewriters at many price points, trained professional office workers used them full-time for work, and these top-end business machines were competing on features, and cost thousands of dollars.
Does anyone have like a couple of diff alps switches I could try out?
Does anyone have like a couple of diff alps switches I could try out?I built a sample plate with a few different Alps switches. It's got White, Blue, Cream, Click modded Cream, Orange, and Click-modded Orange.
What kind do you want to try out?
Does anyone have like a couple of diff alps switches I could try out?
Looking for Matias? PM me.
Does anyone have like a couple of diff alps switches I could try out?I built a sample plate with a few different Alps switches. It's got White, Blue, Cream, Click modded Cream, Orange, and Click-modded Orange.
CPTBadAss has it right now. Get in touch with him and tell him I told him to send it your way when he's done with it.
Does anyone have like a couple of diff alps switches I could try out?u want to buy my alps bord? its on classified
Does your HHKB know?What kind do you want to try out?
Not sure really, but I've been wanting to for awhile now.Does anyone have like a couple of diff alps switches I could try out?
Looking for Matias? PM me.
done!Does anyone have like a couple of diff alps switches I could try out?I built a sample plate with a few different Alps switches. It's got White, Blue, Cream, Click modded Cream, Orange, and Click-modded Orange.
CPTBadAss has it right now. Get in touch with him and tell him I told him to send it your way when he's done with it.
Sounds like a good idea. Alp Sampler OuO
i gib good price :p
Some of the best Alps keycaps have to be on C.Itoh LK201-layout terminal boards [...]
I want to try plate spring so badSome of the best Alps keycaps have to be on C.Itoh LK201-layout terminal boards [...]
Nice, you just snagged the one off of eBay, eh? Looks good.
Does anyone have like a couple of diff alps switches I could try out?I built a sample plate with a few different Alps switches. It's got White, Blue, Cream, Click modded Cream, Orange, and Click-modded Orange.
CPTBadAss has it right now. Get in touch with him and tell him I told him to send it your way when he's done with it.
Nice, you just snagged the one off of eBay, eh? Looks good.Yes, I just bought the recent one. But the pics here are from HaaTa’s. (Which, I should note, I pointed out to him on eBay like a year ago or something. To be specific, I made the mistake of asking him if he knew what type of switch it had, and he immediately bought it. :P)
I want to try plate spring so badThis isn’t plate spring.
I have a Microterm 5510 terminal keyboard with the same LK201 layout. Nice dyesubs, Green Alps, pretty okayish layout. Best part was the new old stock condition! Don't know whether to sell or try to convert with Soarer (don't know what protocol it uses though).Also a fun looking keyboard. Very different keycaps though (I think standard cylindrical Alps profile). There are also green/yellow Alps Texas Instruments and Tektronix keyboards with somewhat similar layouts, again with regular cylindrical caps.
No worries. Never thought twice about it until I saw someone else who could use it.Does anyone have like a couple of diff alps switches I could try out?I built a sample plate with a few different Alps switches. It's got White, Blue, Cream, Click modded Cream, Orange, and Click-modded Orange.
CPTBadAss has it right now. Get in touch with him and tell him I told him to send it your way when he's done with it.
Sorry I held on to it for so long. I was going to write a quick review and then I can pass it on to beehatch. I didn't mean to not give you any updates about it!
Clean up this puppy this weekend: Focus FK-3001, SKCM WhiteThat's a cool board, with a built in calculator.
khronokrator and Chryos and I have been chatting about this board among other things like khronokrator's FK-9000 in my Great Finds thread for it. Ended up getting the keyboard I posted :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/mHU2uP5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dJGkiqB.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NoTylKn.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8yYlHGm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExgaXtX.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xZJP11o.jpg)
Clean up this puppy this weekend: Focus FK-3001, SKCM WhiteThat's a cool board, with a built in calculator.
khronokrator and Chryos and I have been chatting about this board among other things like khronokrator's FK-9000 in my Great Finds thread for it. Ended up getting the keyboard I posted :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/mHU2uP5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dJGkiqB.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NoTylKn.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8yYlHGm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExgaXtX.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xZJP11o.jpg)
I think old Alps boards generally have a lot more personality than old Cherry boards, and I think it's where a lot of the innovation happened. The only old Cherry boards with similar personality are the 1800 variants (Dolch, SkiData).
Alps + PBT = :D
Really happy with these caps, for $10 cant go wrong. They make using the KBP V60 so much better. Going to mod the plate so i can use ISO left shift and HHKB right shift since the PCB has support for them both.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qKdBL8G.jpg)
Where are those caps from itzmeluigi?
Also does the calculator work on that board Mattr?
Now we have proof that the hype is not realShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/V6XfilS.jpg)
I didn't mean to chase after it but after seeing it was hovering around $77 with 10 minutes on the clock I decided to put down $130 to "help out" the seller. At last, I can finally decide what to put into my Monarch - orange, blue, or green. Whatever not making it will go into future KBP with Tex aluminum case ^-^Just wait until you feel them...
Now we can finally see the real value of these switches. For something that is roughly 3 decades old the price has been ridiculous.
Now we can finally see the real value of these switches. For something that is roughly 3 decades old the price has been ridiculous.
Now we can finally see the real value of these switches. For something that is roughly 3 decades old the price has been ridiculous.
Tell that to the people who pay loads for Cherry stuff. :P
Now we can finally see the real value of these switches. For something that is roughly 3 decades old the price has been ridiculous.
Tell that to the people who pay loads for Cherry stuff. :P
I mean, everyone can appreciate a nice set of OG Cherry doubleshots. I would love to have Cherry profile for Alps - its my favorite. I know it exist on a certain fame board, but otherwise no.
Now we can finally see the real value of these switches. For something that is roughly 3 decades old the price has been ridiculous.
Tell that to the people who pay loads for Cherry stuff. :P
I mean, everyone can appreciate a nice set of OG Cherry doubleshots. I would love to have Cherry profile for Alps - its my favorite. I know it exist on a certain fame board, but otherwise no.
I actually prefer the Alps Electric profile, but I'm biased.
> Isn't that just 'OEM profile?
No. Cf. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=68550
If not exactly the it is very close. I prefer it too actually.Now we can finally see the real value of these switches. For something that is roughly 3 decades old the price has been ridiculous.
Tell that to the people who pay loads for Cherry stuff. :P
I mean, everyone can appreciate a nice set of OG Cherry doubleshots. I would love to have Cherry profile for Alps - its my favorite. I know it exist on a certain fame board, but otherwise no.
I actually prefer the Alps Electric profile, but I'm biased.
Next best. Isn't that just 'OEM profile?'
Alps + PBT = :D
Really happy with these caps, for $10 cant go wrong. They make using the KBP V60 so much better. Going to mod the plate so i can use ISO left shift and HHKB right shift since the PCB has support for them both.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qKdBL8G.jpg)
If not exactly the it is very close. I prefer it too actually.Now we can finally see the real value of these switches. For something that is roughly 3 decades old the price has been ridiculous.
Tell that to the people who pay loads for Cherry stuff. :P
I mean, everyone can appreciate a nice set of OG Cherry doubleshots. I would love to have Cherry profile for Alps - its my favorite. I know it exist on a certain fame board, but otherwise no.
I actually prefer the Alps Electric profile, but I'm biased.
Next best. Isn't that just 'OEM profile?'
MX blue and SKCM blue isn't even a comparison, the Alps are so much better in so many ways it's no wonder Cherry sold comparatively **** all in the late 80s :P .
Not sure if this is the right thread but I just got a MacKey SKB-102MJ from Blaise170's ebay and I cannot identify the switch :eek:
Could you help me identify this alps (not sure if its clone or alps) switch?(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1563/26490667905_4334dab292_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GmTADx)IMG_1220 (https://flic.kr/p/GmTADx) by GooNyang (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141181257@N06/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1483/26490670735_b955e18397_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GmTBuk)
Cool board. Those are genuine Alps. SKCL Cream then? Does it have a cut out in the case? Like this: http://i.imgur.com/Q7wvXUm.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/Q7wvXUm.jpg)
Look genuine to me - proper complicated switchplate, slits and long tabs.
If there is no tactile or click leaf it must indeed be linear, however the upper shell is missing the LED hole. That's unprecedented for Alps.
Could you make a clear shot showing the lettering and numbering on the top shell? That should help quite a lot in determining if it's genuine. Some Alps clones were actually made using discarded, genuine Alps shells, but had incomplete numbering.
Cool board. Those are genuine Alps. SKCL Cream then? Does it have a cut out in the case? Like this: http://i.imgur.com/Q7wvXUm.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/Q7wvXUm.jpg)
Nah, linear cream has LED cut-outs.
I think it's possible that the previous (before Blaise) owner linear modded the keyboard and removed the leaves before it was sold. I wouldn't be surprised.
Hi, sorry I haven't had a chance to reply to your eBay message yet. I honestly have no idea what switches they are. It's possible that it might be a simplified Alps switch that hasn't been documented, since Strong Man typically used Alps SKBL/SKBM. As far as I know, Alps SKBL didn't have the LED cutouts, which also fits the description.
Look genuine to me - proper complicated switchplate, slits and long tabs.
If there is no tactile or click leaf it must indeed be linear, however the upper shell is missing the LED hole. That's unprecedented for Alps.
Could you make a clear shot showing the lettering and numbering on the top shell? That should help quite a lot in determining if it's genuine. Some Alps clones were actually made using discarded, genuine Alps shells, but had incomplete numbering.
Hi, sorry I haven't had a chance to reply to your eBay message yet. I honestly have no idea what switches they are. It's possible that it might be a simplified Alps switch that hasn't been documented, since Strong Man typically used Alps SKBL/SKBM. As far as I know, Alps SKBL didn't have the LED cutouts, which also fits the description.
Well this stirs the pot. SKBM/SKBL isn't talked about much. One thing I noticed is that the slider (maybe its the pic but) looks like a off white, but not a cream either. That's points to SKBL a bit. The other thing is that it uses a complicated switchplate so wouldn't it make it a SKCM/SKCL?
I'm an Alps convert. Got my first Alps board today, an M0116 with Orange, and I'm in love. I thought before today Topre was the pinnacle of tactile switched; now I don't know which I like more!Haha yeah they're my two favourite types of tactile switches too xD . Welcome to the club ;) .
I'm an Alps convert. Got my first Alps board today, an M0116 with Orange, and I'm in love. I thought before today Topre was the pinnacle of tactile switched; now I don't know which I like more!
I'm an Alps convert. Got my first Alps board today, an M0116 with Orange, and I'm in love. I thought before today Topre was the pinnacle of tactile switched; now I don't know which I like more!
Welcome my friend! There are many more tasty Alps switches like SKCL Green or SKCM Blue. SKCM Orange is a great first switch. My first was SKCM Black :confused: Plus you have some of the best Alps caps on that M0116. I wonder if we could convert Demik lol. He has never tried Alps in any shape or form.
I'm an Alps convert. Got my first Alps board today, an M0116 with Orange, and I'm in love. I thought before today Topre was the pinnacle of tactile switched; now I don't know which I like more!
Welcome my friend! There are many more tasty Alps switches like SKCL Green or SKCM Blue. SKCM Orange is a great first switch. My first was SKCM Black :confused: Plus you have some of the best Alps caps on that M0116. I wonder if we could convert Demik lol. He has never tried Alps in any shape or form.
Green and Blue are next on my hit list!
The M0116 I chose for the cap selection as well. Mad thanks to xveamvx.
I'm an Alps convert. Got my first Alps board today, an M0116 with Orange, and I'm in love. I thought before today Topre was the pinnacle of tactile switched; now I don't know which I like more!
The mould numbering appears to be incomplete on those. In fact, they look just like those from Type III Alps clones. Those have a simplified contact design, though. That said, I'm doubting these are genuine Alps.
I'm an Alps convert. Got my first Alps board today, an M0116 with Orange, and I'm in love. I thought before today Topre was the pinnacle of tactile switched; now I don't know which I like more!
The mould numbering appears to be incomplete on those. In fact, they look just like those from Type III Alps clones. Those have a simplified contact design, though. That said, I'm doubting these are genuine Alps.
I love my orange alps. My personal favorite all time (prefer them over green and yellow alps), I love tactile switches! My next goal is to find brown alps board (which is almost impossible I heard. :confused:)
The mould numbering appears to be incomplete on those. In fact, they look just like those from Type III Alps clones. Those have a simplified contact design, though. That said, I'm doubting these are genuine Alps.
Yeah, but these have actual complicated contact plates, which is strange! I don't think I've seen clones with that, but I might not have been to thorough in reading up on the different clones.I love my orange alps. My personal favorite all time (prefer them over green and yellow alps), I love tactile switches! My next goal is to find brown alps board (which is almost impossible I heard. :confused:)
Yea, those don't look simple to me! Who knows with clones, there are so many :confused:
Orange Alps are pretty nice. Out of the most common switches, my favorites are SKCM Blue, SKCL Green, and SKCM Orange. Brown tactile Alps are not hard to find (remember there is brown linear as well, which are a lot harder to find), but only because of the seeming abundance of IBM 5140 luggable computers that ALWAYS have them. Otherwise, they would be almost as rare as tactile green and linear brown, I'd say.
So I went patent hunting.
Started from the SKCL Lock patent (https://goo.gl/ikq4pY) and followed the trail.
Findings:
Clicky SKCM: https://goo.gl/NGbOzq
Simplified/clone: https://goo.gl/mNXLlr
SKFR? https://goo.gl/0MXf3R
Acer's Alps clone: https://goo.gl/j6P0Yp
And for fun Key Tronic's early capacitive switch: https://goo.gl/q9Hz4gShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/sEoVO30.png)
So I went patent hunting.
Started from the SKCL Lock patent (https://goo.gl/ikq4pY) and followed the trail.
Findings:
Clicky SKCM: https://goo.gl/NGbOzq
Simplified/clone: https://goo.gl/mNXLlr
SKFR? https://goo.gl/0MXf3R
Acer's Alps clone: https://goo.gl/j6P0Yp
And for fun Key Tronic's early capacitive switch: https://goo.gl/q9Hz4gShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/sEoVO30.png)
So I went patent hunting.
Started from the SKCL Lock patent (https://goo.gl/ikq4pY) and followed the trail.
Findings:
Clicky SKCM: https://goo.gl/NGbOzq
Simplified/clone: https://goo.gl/mNXLlr
SKFR? https://goo.gl/0MXf3R
Acer's Alps clone: https://goo.gl/j6P0Yp
And for fun Key Tronic's early capacitive switch: https://goo.gl/q9Hz4gShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/sEoVO30.png)
Nice drawing. So old already! (1992)
So I went patent hunting.
Started from the SKCL Lock patent (https://goo.gl/ikq4pY) and followed the trail.
Findings:
Clicky SKCM: https://goo.gl/NGbOzq
Simplified/clone: https://goo.gl/mNXLlr
SKFR? https://goo.gl/0MXf3R
Acer's Alps clone: https://goo.gl/j6P0Yp
And for fun Key Tronic's early capacitive switch: https://goo.gl/q9Hz4gShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/sEoVO30.png)
Nice drawing. So old already! (1992)
>1992
>old
;_;
The mould numbering appears to be incomplete on those. In fact, they look just like those from Type III Alps clones. Those have a simplified contact design, though. That said, I'm doubting these are genuine Alps.
Yeah, but these have actual complicated contact plates, which is strange! I don't think I've seen clones with that, but I might not have been to thorough in reading up on the different clones.I love my orange alps. My personal favorite all time (prefer them over green and yellow alps), I love tactile switches! My next goal is to find brown alps board (which is almost impossible I heard. :confused:)
Orange Alps are pretty nice. Out of the most common switches, my favorites are SKCM Blue, SKCL Green, and SKCM Orange. Brown tactile Alps are not hard to find (remember there is brown linear as well, which are a lot harder to find), but only because of the seeming abundance of IBM 5140 luggable computers that ALWAYS have them. Otherwise, they would be almost as rare as tactile green and linear brown, I'd say.
So I went patent hunting.
Started from the SKCL Lock patent (https://goo.gl/ikq4pY) and followed the trail.
Findings:
Clicky SKCM: https://goo.gl/NGbOzq
Simplified/clone: https://goo.gl/mNXLlr
SKFR? https://goo.gl/0MXf3R
Acer's Alps clone: https://goo.gl/j6P0Yp
And for fun Key Tronic's early capacitive switch: https://goo.gl/q9Hz4gShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/sEoVO30.png)
My alps game isn't very strong, but I've got a board missing some keys. Are there any replacement sets out there that have a bigass enter?
The mould numbering appears to be incomplete on those. In fact, they look just like those from Type III Alps clones. Those have a simplified contact design, though. That said, I'm doubting these are genuine Alps.
Yeah, but these have actual complicated contact plates, which is strange! I don't think I've seen clones with that, but I might not have been to thorough in reading up on the different clones.I love my orange alps. My personal favorite all time (prefer them over green and yellow alps), I love tactile switches! My next goal is to find brown alps board (which is almost impossible I heard. :confused:)
Orange Alps are pretty nice. Out of the most common switches, my favorites are SKCM Blue, SKCL Green, and SKCM Orange. Brown tactile Alps are not hard to find (remember there is brown linear as well, which are a lot harder to find), but only because of the seeming abundance of IBM 5140 luggable computers that ALWAYS have them. Otherwise, they would be almost as rare as tactile green and linear brown, I'd say.
Is it this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AS-IS-Vintage-1986-IBM-PC-Convertible-Model-5140-Luggable-Laptop-Parts-Repair-/291729528659?hash=item43ec6f5753%3Ag%3A9soAAOSwsN9XAxRl&nma=true&si=CkNQnPv3ZaynL5%252Fg5CHDj3E2GZQ%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Are there any ways to get it working on normal pc??
My alps game isn't very strong, but I've got a board missing some keys. Are there any replacement sets out there that have a bigass enter?
Unfortunately there aren't. You'd have to find a board with a similar layout to swap caps.
Alps bigass Enter shouldn't be hard to find. Many (most?) of the mid-late-1980s-early-1990s boards had them. Modern Enters are the difficult ones.
I'm an Alps convert. Got my first Alps board today, an M0116 with Orange, and I'm in love. I thought before today Topre was the pinnacle of tactile switched; now I don't know which I like more!
Welcome my friend! There are many more tasty Alps switches like SKCL Green or SKCM Blue. SKCM Orange is a great first switch. My first was SKCM Black :confused: Plus you have some of the best Alps caps on that M0116. I wonder if we could convert Demik lol. He has never tried Alps in any shape or form.Come on man, Black Alps aren't that bad. I prefer them to White Alps, strangely enough. I guess I'm a linear and tactile switch fan, but I do like clicky switches.
Welcome my friend! There are many more tasty Alps switches like SKCL Green or SKCM Blue. SKCM Orange is a great first switch. My first was SKCM Black :confused: Plus you have some of the best Alps caps on that M0116. I wonder if we could convert Demik lol. He has never tried Alps in any shape or form.Come on man, Black Alps aren't that bad. I prefer them to White Alps, strangely enough. I guess I'm a linear and tactile switch fan, but I do like clicky switches.
I'm an Alps convert. Got my first Alps board today, an M0116 with Orange, and I'm in love. I thought before today Topre was the pinnacle of tactile switched; now I don't know which I like more!
Can you compare the Alps with the Topre? What's so nice about Alps compared to the One True Cup Rubber SwitchTM :P (just joking)
I'm an Alps convert. Got my first Alps board today, an M0116 with Orange, and I'm in love. I thought before today Topre was the pinnacle of tactile switched; now I don't know which I like more!
Can you compare the Alps with the Topre? What's so nice about Alps compared to the One True Cup Rubber SwitchTM :P (just joking)
I'll have to give a more thorough review some time, but for now the M0116 can't be used as I don't have the converter. I can pretend to type on it (all the switches are exceptionally sturdy and smooth), but I plan on harvesting them for a Clueboard, so that's when I'll do my final thoughts! :p
I'll have to give a more thorough review some time, but for now the M0116 can't be used as I don't have the converter. I can pretend to type on it (all the switches are exceptionally sturdy and smooth), but I plan on harvesting them for a Clueboard, so that's when I'll do my final thoughts! :p
I'll have to give a more thorough review some time, but for now the M0116 can't be used as I don't have the converter. I can pretend to type on it (all the switches are exceptionally sturdy and smooth), but I plan on harvesting them for a Clueboard, so that's when I'll do my final thoughts! :p
I think a Clueboard sounds like an excellent candidate to start your Alps journey (and a fantastic endgame choice as well; I know a lot of people like FC660s).
I'll have to give a more thorough review some time, but for now the M0116 can't be used as I don't have the converter. I can pretend to type on it (all the switches are exceptionally sturdy and smooth), but I plan on harvesting them for a Clueboard, so that's when I'll do my final thoughts! :p
I think a Clueboard sounds like an excellent candidate to start your Alps journey (and a fantastic endgame choice as well; I know a lot of people like FC660s).
The S doesn't come with Alps, or does it?
I'll have to give a more thorough review some time, but for now the M0116 can't be used as I don't have the converter. I can pretend to type on it (all the switches are exceptionally sturdy and smooth), but I plan on harvesting them for a Clueboard, so that's when I'll do my final thoughts! :p
I think a Clueboard sounds like an excellent candidate to start your Alps journey (and a fantastic endgame choice as well; I know a lot of people like FC660s).
The S doesn't come with Alps, or does it?
I think the FC660 is Cherry MX and Topre only, but with skully's Clueboard PCB you can use Alps. Plus, fully programmable!
I'll have to give a more thorough review some time, but for now the M0116 can't be used as I don't have the converter. I can pretend to type on it (all the switches are exceptionally sturdy and smooth), but I plan on harvesting them for a Clueboard, so that's when I'll do my final thoughts! :p
I think a Clueboard sounds like an excellent candidate to start your Alps journey (and a fantastic endgame choice as well; I know a lot of people like FC660s).
The S doesn't come with Alps, or does it?
I think the FC660 is Cherry MX and Topre only, but with skully's Clueboard PCB you can use Alps. Plus, fully programmable!
That's cool, didn't knew that.
So much to find out and to try still... I've only scratched the surface or so it seems.
That's cool, didn't knew that.
So much to find out and to try still... I've only scratched the surface or so it seems.
Leave before it's too late! :))
I started with blue Alps, and then the second switch I tried was Alps SKCM Orange on an AEK. I've always run along the more difficult to find switches and have stayed away from the most common ones, like SKCM White, Black, and Damped, though I do have those now. The only board-wide switch (switches that aren't just space bar switches) that I don't have is SKCM Cream, and I'm not all that interested in them, but I might go through some NeXT boards to find some eventually.
As people on DT call it, the Alps Vortex is ferocious and unforgiving! Beware!
I started with blue Alps, and then the second switch I tried was Alps SKCM Orange on an AEK. I've always run along the more difficult to find switches and have stayed away from the most common ones, like SKCM White, Black, and Damped, though I do have those now. The only board-wide switch (switches that aren't just space bar switches) that I don't have is SKCM Cream, and I'm not all that interested in them, but I might go through some NeXT boards to find some eventually.
As people on DT call it, the Alps Vortex is ferocious and unforgiving! Beware!
It took a while for them to grow on me, but I think SKCL Greens are becoming a top contender for my favorite linear, and I rarely even type on them. My Zenith is sitting to the right of my desk while I've been IBM'ing it up since my USB adapter is at work on my Mini. Every once and a while I reach over and think to myself "damn, probably about time to bring the Mini home and the Zenith to work"Alps themselves made some fairly thick ABS doubleshots. However, Honeywell-calibre Alps caps don't exist AFAIK.
They really are just so smooth and have such a pleasant force curve and travel distance. I think my new lust is a brass-bottomed 60% with GMK-thickness ABS caps, SKCL Greens, and an acrylic plate. Sounds like I need to learn CAD...
Are there any really thick ABS ALPs-compatible caps out there? The ones on my Zenith are horribly thin.
Alps themselves made some fairly thick ABS doubleshots. However, Honeywell-calibre Alps caps don't exist AFAIK.
I use my ZKB-2R at work, it's a great work keyboard even despite being linear :D .
The thickest ABS “standard mount” Alps keycaps are the sculpted spherical ones from the mid-80s.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ivgULup.jpg)
Some pics of the bottoms from Parak:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nuYxKh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/R8dHw.jpg)
Definitely not as thick as Honeywell caps, or even Alps tee-mount caps, but pretty sturdy.
In general, Alps dyesubs are pretty thick. My favorites are the ones from a couple C.Itoh keyboards.
Here are some pics from HaaTa: https://www.flickr.com/photos/triplehaata/sets/72157663966300963/Show Image(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1575/25953518176_08af264e96_h.jpg)Show Image(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1530/25979377625_162e9c4995_h.jpg)
The ones from Apple keyboards are also great though.
It took a while for them to grow on me, but I think SKCL Greens are becoming a top contender for my favorite linear, and I rarely even type on them. My Zenith is sitting to the right of my desk while I've been IBM'ing it up since my USB adapter is at work on my Mini. Every once and a while I reach over and think to myself "damn, probably about time to bring the Mini home and the Zenith to work"
They really are just so smooth and have such a pleasant force curve and travel distance. I think my new lust is a brass-bottomed 60% with GMK-thickness ABS caps, SKCL Greens, and an acrylic plate. Sounds like I need to learn CAD...
Are there any really thick ABS ALPs-compatible caps out there? The ones on my Zenith are horribly thin.
Here is a NeXT keyShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/16LJU.jpg)
Bought 4x IBM 5140's. I will be building up a Leeku ALPhas L3 pcb in AEK layout for my LZ-GH soon. Can't wait to get in the PCB's :thumb:
It had to happen.
Party On!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/leading-edge-keyboard-dc-2014-In-Original-Box-/301934966798? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/leading-edge-keyboard-dc-2014-In-Original-Box-/301934966798?)
It had to happen.
Party On!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/leading-edge-keyboard-dc-2014-In-Original-Box-/301934966798? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/leading-edge-keyboard-dc-2014-In-Original-Box-/301934966798?)
Oh, here we go. This is gonna be a fun ride ;)
Bought 4x IBM 5140's. I will be building up a Leeku ALPhas L3 pcb in AEK layout for my LZ-GH soon. Can't wait to get in the PCB's :thumb:How? Did you just buy the boards? How much was it?
all from eBay seller. Prices ranged from $20-65 each :) :thumb:
It had to happen.
Party On!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/leading-edge-keyboard-dc-2014-In-Original-Box-/301934966798? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/leading-edge-keyboard-dc-2014-In-Original-Box-/301934966798?)
Oh, here we go. This is gonna be a fun ride ;)
Yeeeeah, noooo.
Funny thing too, I was watching Scream last night, and noticed the same typewriter at the school just before this guy gets slayed :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pLrJ5eq.png)
Bought 4x IBM 5140's. I will be building up a Leeku ALPhas L3 pcb in AEK layout for my LZ-GH soon. Can't wait to get in the PCB's :thumb:How? Did you just buy the boards? How much was it?
all from eBay seller. Prices ranged from $20-65 each :) :thumb:
Are they salmons? The white balance seems a bit off in the picture? Nice board though :) .
Looks like they might be Amber.They're salmon. He cross-posted this from the Alps Party thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75491.msg2148260.msg#2148260
Bought 4x IBM 5140's. I will be building up a Leeku ALPhas L3 pcb in AEK layout for my LZ-GH soon. Can't wait to get in the PCB's :thumb:How? Did you just buy the boards? How much was it?
all from eBay seller. Prices ranged from $20-65 each :) :thumb:
I saw on reddit you recently picked up a Sharp typewriter. How did it turn out? Delicious Green Alps or no?
I asked the seller first to confirm, but yes. 67 green alps for $25 shipped :)
Will need more parts to make a 60%
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HyQRft8l.jpg)
I love my Omnikey 102.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HyQRft8l.jpg)
I love my Omnikey 102.
Northgate keyboards are honestly the best keyboards I ever owned, I really regret selling my mint omnikey ultra. I've never has a 102 though, what's that touch button fucntion row like?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HyQRft8l.jpg)
I love my Omnikey 102.
Northgate keyboards are honestly the best keyboards I ever owned, I really regret selling my mint omnikey ultra. I've never has a 102 though, what's that touch button fucntion row like?
I think that is just a label for people who need to jot down what the function keys do for particular programs or something.
haha wow I always though those were the old school plastic cover push buttons....couldn't have been more wrong
All this talk of SKCM Orange made me bring out my SGI Granite, which I swapped w/ SKCM Orange jacked from a AEK a while back. Forgot how good these were. As a result I cleaned all the switches today. Very tedious but worth it. Thinking about it, I have cleaned about 400 Alps switches at this point :eek:
BTW the reason I didn't just buy a AEK is because of the changing of the home row bumps to D/K. It always screwed me up on my old AEKII. Moving the keycaps around just aggravated me for whatever reason.
All this talk of SKCM Orange made me bring out my SGI Granite, which I swapped w/ SKCM Orange jacked from a AEK a while back. Forgot how good these were. As a result I cleaned all the switches today. Very tedious but worth it. Thinking about it, I have cleaned about 400 Alps switches at this point :eek:
BTW the reason I didn't just buy a AEK is because of the changing of the home row bumps to D/K. It always screwed me up on my old AEKII. Moving the keycaps around just aggravated me for whatever reason.
My M0116 was the first time I had homing bumps on D and K. Had no idea that was a thing, and took me a while to get adjusted.
Btw you guys are going to see something pretty cool in two weeks or so, I think :D .
Haha no, way more unique than that xD ;) .Btw you guys are going to see something pretty cool in two weeks or so, I think :D .
is is a blue alps model m clone? I want one.
Haha no, way more unique than that xD ;) .Btw you guys are going to see something pretty cool in two weeks or so, I think :D .
is is a blue alps model m clone? I want one.
MX Compatible IBM Buckling ALPS.
It's rumored that the interior shell of the keyboard is stuffed with artisans and clacks.
Oh man, you gotta show us the video now chyros if its way more unique than a blue alps IBM clone.Well you'll see it in two weeks ;) . Though next week's video will also be Alps-oriented :) .
Better not be plate spring alps....
I am still salty that I got outbid on the P70 auction :mad:
How hard would it be to cut a Focus plate? Thinking of using Focus or Monterrey caps on my hasu 64, and I guess I'd have to cut the original plate.
Got this for the key caps, but I might get a Hasu ADB converter to actually use the thing :thumb: First time trying salmon alps :-*Really great condition you got right there :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/z4SSJki.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OCEe2g9.jpg)
First time trying salmon alps
They aren't what google tells me are orange alps.
They aren't what google tells me are orange alps.
None of the ones I have had are particularly vivid, in fact they have generally been rather dull, but there has always been a distinct pinkish tone in the salmons.
But, of course, consistency was never a top priority there ....
They aren't what google tells me are orange alps.
None of the ones I have had are particularly vivid, in fact they have generally been rather dull, but there has always been a distinct pinkish tone in the salmons.
But, of course, consistency was never a top priority there ....
Those are SKCM Salmon for sure.
Agreed. Here is a SKCM Orange from my swapped SGI. Much darker.
They aren't what google tells me are orange alps.
None of the ones I have had are particularly vivid, in fact they have generally been rather dull, but there has always been a distinct pinkish tone in the salmons.
But, of course, consistency was never a top priority there ....
Those are SKCM Salmon for sure.
Does the Orange have a little fade? I guess what I'm wondering if there's any way to confuse the two stems based on eyes alone. I have Orange, but in some lights it comes off a bit faded.
When I saw orange in real life before, they were much darker than the salmons that I have. Even if they were faded, I think the difference would be obvious.
First time trying salmon alps
Those are probably orange. "Salmon" has a distinct pink cast to it. What is the serial number?Definitely “salmon”.
Got this for the key caps, but I might get a Hasu ADB converter to actually use the thing :thumb: First time trying salmon alps :-*Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/z4SSJki.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OCEe2g9.jpg)
Agreed. Here is a SKCM Orange from my swapped SGI. Much darker.
They aren't what google tells me are orange alps.
None of the ones I have had are particularly vivid, in fact they have generally been rather dull, but there has always been a distinct pinkish tone in the salmons.
But, of course, consistency was never a top priority there ....
Those are SKCM Salmon for sure.
Does the Orange have a little fade? I guess what I'm wondering if there's any way to confuse the two stems based on eyes alone. I have Orange, but in some lights it comes off a bit faded.
When I saw orange in real life before, they were much darker than the salmons that I have. Even if they were faded, I think the difference would be obvious.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rEmpGi7.jpg)
Where could I find replacement caps for this thing?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jwfJr98.jpg)
I'll just leave this here...are those neon green ALPS you talked about in your topre video?Show Image(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/Chyrosran/8I%20smileys/I8_zpsmkdo4cj9.gif)
Yes :D .I'll just leave this here...are those neon green ALPS you talked about in your topre video?Show Image(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/Chyrosran/8I%20smileys/I8_zpsmkdo4cj9.gif)
Yes :D .I'll just leave this here...are those neon green ALPS you talked about in your topre video?Show Image(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/Chyrosran/8I%20smileys/I8_zpsmkdo4cj9.gif)
Sooooo how does one go about trying out some alps boards OuO
Sooooo how does one go about trying out some alps boards OuO
Sooooo how does one go about trying out some alps boards OuO
CPT has/had a little switch tester I built. I have him permission to resend it to beehatch when he was done with it, not sure where it's at ATM.Sooooo how does one go about trying out some alps boards OuO
I think CPTBadass had a tester board. Beehatch also has some Matias switches, since you two are penpals it might be easy to have her borrow you a few.
CPT has/had a little switch tester I built. I have him permission to resend it to beehatch when he was done with it, not sure where it's at ATM.Sooooo how does one go about trying out some alps boards OuO
I think CPTBadass had a tester board. Beehatch also has some Matias switches, since you two are penpals it might be easy to have her borrow you a few.
CPT has/had a little switch tester I built. I have him permission to resend it to beehatch when he was done with it, not sure where it's at ATM.
NP. I'm not in a hurry.CPT has/had a little switch tester I built. I have him permission to resend it to beehatch when he was done with it, not sure where it's at ATM.
Still at my place. Keep forgetting to send it to beehatch who asked me like 2 weeks ago. I'm the worst. I'll update you when she has it :(.
I'll just leave this here...Show Image(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/Chyrosran/8I%20smileys/I8_zpsmkdo4cj9.gif)
I'll just leave this here...Show Image(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/Chyrosran/8I%20smileys/I8_zpsmkdo4cj9.gif)
I counted 146 in this video and they look like bamboo SKCM Green to me, but I can't wait to see how many you really have and if they are pine or not or even perhaps a mix.
I know several parts vendors have SKCMAT and that seems to be one of the only Alps switches that can be found in such a manner, which is weird considering how rare they are. They aren't cheap though.
I wonder if this was a donation! Chyros, you're usually very very frugal with spending, so if you shelled out, like $200+ for these, I'd be VERY surprised, haha.
All shall be revealed soon! That said, I had to raise some money for this project xD . I'm nearly in the black again now though :) .I'll just leave this here...Show Image(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/Chyrosran/8I%20smileys/I8_zpsmkdo4cj9.gif)
I counted 146 in this video and they look like bamboo SKCM Green to me, but I can't wait to see how many you really have and if they are pine or not or even perhaps a mix.
I know several parts vendors have SKCMAT and that seems to be one of the only Alps switches that can be found in such a manner, which is weird considering how rare they are. They aren't cheap though.
I wonder if this was a donation! Chyros, you're usually very very frugal with spending, so if you shelled out, like $200+ for these, I'd be VERY surprised, haha.
I'll just leave this here...Show Image(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/Chyrosran/8I%20smileys/I8_zpsmkdo4cj9.gif)
I counted 146 in this video and they look like bamboo SKCM Green to me, but I can't wait to see how many you really have and if they are pine or not or even perhaps a mix.
I know several parts vendors have SKCMAT and that seems to be one of the only Alps switches that can be found in such a manner, which is weird considering how rare they are. They aren't cheap though.
I wonder if this was a donation! Chyros, you're usually very very frugal with spending, so if you shelled out, like $200+ for these, I'd be VERY surprised, haha.
Really? Do you have a link?
I'll just leave this here...Show Image(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/Chyrosran/8I%20smileys/I8_zpsmkdo4cj9.gif)
I counted 146 in this video and they look like bamboo SKCM Green to me, but I can't wait to see how many you really have and if they are pine or not or even perhaps a mix.
I know several parts vendors have SKCMAT and that seems to be one of the only Alps switches that can be found in such a manner, which is weird considering how rare they are. They aren't cheap though.
I wonder if this was a donation! Chyros, you're usually very very frugal with spending, so if you shelled out, like $200+ for these, I'd be VERY surprised, haha.
Really? Do you have a link?
A search for SKCMAT on google will turn up some results. Go down that rabbit hole and I'm pretty sure you'll find some. :)
All the places I contacted had them out of stock. Looks like I was too late :'(
They all come from the same source, which is dry now.
I actually mentioned to several vendors that there might be a considerable demand for these switches after I'd buy them in order to try and negotiate a better price for them. Then it turned out all the stock figures the vendors list are made-up and in truth only one supplier stocks these.They all come from the same source, which is dry now.
You know they gotta be wondering why they got a bunch of separate orders for those switches.
I actually mentioned to several vendors that there might be a considerable demand for these switches after I'd buy them in order to try and negotiate a better price for them. Then it turned out all the stock figures the vendors list are made-up and in truth only one supplier stocks these.They all come from the same source, which is dry now.
You know they gotta be wondering why they got a bunch of separate orders for those switches.
I actually mentioned to several vendors that there might be a considerable demand for these switches after I'd buy them in order to try and negotiate a better price for them. Then it turned out all the stock figures the vendors list are made-up and in truth only one supplier stocks these.They all come from the same source, which is dry now.
You know they gotta be wondering why they got a bunch of separate orders for those switches.
Does anyone know this board?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Does anyone know this board?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Does anyone know this board?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
It look the same as Leading Edge DC-3014,especially Caps Lock key.
DC-3014 http://zonam.egloos.com/3413724
Does anyone know this board?Well it appears to be a well engineered product
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
It look the same as Leading Edge DC-3014,especially Caps Lock key.
DC-3014 http://zonam.egloos.com/3413724
Does anyone know this board?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
It look the same as Leading Edge DC-3014,especially Caps Lock key.
DC-3014 http://zonam.egloos.com/3413724
Does anyone know this board?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
It look the same as Leading Edge DC-3014,especially Caps Lock key.
DC-3014 http://zonam.egloos.com/3413724
The top and layout remind me of the NTC 6151N, but the bottom is beyond me. Definitely not a DC-3014 though.
Just won 2 white alps boards off ebay with doubleshot caps for ~25$ each. There is a omnikey 101 and a fk-2001.
Just won 2 white alps boards off ebay with doubleshot caps for ~25$ each. There is a omnikey 104 and a fk-2001.$25 for an OmniKey is an absolute steal. Congrats!
got this for 425 shipped with green alps and double shot caps:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xCKQLIg.jpg)
I have a surprise of my own. (E3E don't spoil it) A rare Focus board is coming in off craigslist ;DOooh, colour me excited :D . I love Focus stuff!
Your going to love it Chyros, knowing your love for Focus stuff :p
I actually mentioned to several vendors that there might be a considerable demand for these switches after I'd buy them in order to try and negotiate a better price for them. Then it turned out all the stock figures the vendors list are made-up and in truth only one supplier stocks these.
So I am considering getting an Alps KB in a 60% form factor for the Datamancer wood case. Are there any keysets that are available to purchase? I was thinking of buying a Pok3r for the case but I do not have an Alps KB and I thought it would be neat since I like different switches for different purposes.
Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated.
I actually mentioned to several vendors that there might be a considerable demand for these switches after I'd buy them in order to try and negotiate a better price for them. Then it turned out all the stock figures the vendors list are made-up and in truth only one supplier stocks these.
MFW the hunt for Neon Green Alps turns into the hunt for IBM 6019284s :))So I am considering getting an Alps KB in a 60% form factor for the Datamancer wood case. Are there any keysets that are available to purchase? I was thinking of buying a Pok3r for the case but I do not have an Alps KB and I thought it would be neat since I like different switches for different purposes.
Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated.
For modern layouts? The easiest available board to get in that layout is a V60. I think MK.com still stocks it. Otherwise you'll have to hunt around or wait for a sale of like Tai Hao caps or njbair's SP GB. Matias has caps too.
Or if you're really adventurous, harvest vintage boards for caps. Say an AEK or AT101W.
gimme dat kish. Or at least help me find one LOL
Wow, $25 makes more sense, and a great deal! Nice photography, too.got this for 425 shipped with green alps and double shot caps:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xCKQLIg.jpg)
$425 or 4.25!?
I was braindead last night :confused: It was $25 shipped actually. I took some pictures of the taking apart:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/A8k5PdX.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uBAqcWr.jpg)
Some rework was done I guess:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZkRkQXX.jpg)
Motherboard:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eWIOpyr.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IIrGDsD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YU3BUo7.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/w0ipRqP.jpg)
Been cutting this plate all dayShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160505/ae66adfb3a140f0b6eb5ea4499d9cfca.jpg)
Been cutting this plate all dayShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160505/ae66adfb3a140f0b6eb5ea4499d9cfca.jpg)
That's too much like work!
Don't do yourself a mischief on those sharp edges!!!
it is a lot of work. I got it down to a science though. Gonna cut down an AEK plate and two Acer 6011 plates. Hopefully those turn out alright. Need to pickup some paint.
My V60 w/ SKCL Green's has the most ping of any keyboard in the world, more than the Pingmaster! Want to do a typing test but my phone has trouble picking it up. The whole damn thing resonate's like crazy, it has 3 levels of ping. I have a couple SKCL Green's in my SGI AT101 and they don't sound like the same switches at all.
My V60 w/ SKCL Green's has the most ping of any keyboard in the world, more than the Pingmaster! Want to do a typing test but my phone has trouble picking it up. The whole damn thing resonate's like crazy, it has 3 levels of ping. I have a couple SKCL Green's in my SGI AT101 and they don't sound like the same switches at all.
Interesting, the SKCL Greens in my Z-150 sounded a bit more thocky before I desoldered them.
But this was typing on the bare plate without the case because it was destroyed in shipping.
Still very pleasant to me.
I think I will have to be very careful with case choice in my 60% build.
Maybe go with a thick acrylic/plastic case (with a decent sized cavity under the PCB) and acrylic plate to get max resonance and thock lol.
Probably put some dampening material inside as well.
Any suggestions?
Mmmm, Alps typing sounds. Can listen to that all day ^^ .
Those orange ALPS sound lovely.
I actually prefer the sound of tactile ALPS over clicky ALPS. It sounds like "generictypingsound.mp4" stock sounds you'd find on the internet. In a good way.
Love the video Chyros. SKCM Lime/green is very :cool: Now that all the supply has done, it seems you and Docutech's are the only source now for these switches. They sound lovely with Alps dyesubs, similar to my SGI w/ SKCM Orange but you can notice a distinct difference. I have always wanted a Wang but they seem to be far and few between on ebay, and normally the prices are quite high.
I have a surprise of my own. (E3E don't spoil it) A rare Focus board is coming in off craigslist ;DOooh, colour me excited :D . I love Focus stuff!
Your going to love it Chyros, knowing your love for Focus stuff :p
The U key doesn't work, and Num 1 and 2 chatter.Your best bet is to just desolder those switches and swap them with some from a less important part of the board. While doing the swap you can try to disassemble, clean, and reassemble them, but it might not fix the problem.
I have always wanted a Wang but they seem to be far and few between on ebay, and normally the prices are quite high.Bob Tibbets will sell you a new one with “bamboo” black switches for $125 + shipping, if you really want one. http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com
Love the video Chyros. SKCM Lime/green is very :cool: Now that all the supply has done, it seems you and Docutech's are the only source now for these switches. They sound lovely with Alps dyesubs, similar to my SGI w/ SKCM Orange but you can notice a distinct difference. I have always wanted a Wang but they seem to be far and few between on ebay, and normally the prices are quite high.Thanks for posting that link, I completely forgot to myself xD .
Awesome! A very nice board indeed :D . It's definitely a looker - did Focus ever make a board that wasn't just gorgeous?! It looks just like the 747 btw, do you know of any discrete differences yet?I have a surprise of my own. (E3E don't spoil it) A rare Focus board is coming in off craigslist ;DOooh, colour me excited :D . I love Focus stuff!
Your going to love it Chyros, knowing your love for Focus stuff :p
Well here we are Chryos, the unveil. The board that surprised even me! This board is the Focus FK-727, the 747's brother. Both to my knowledge extremely rare. 84 key AT/XT, 9 NKRO. Now, this board isn't SKCM Blue like I expected, or Alps at all. Its Omron B3G-S. Cyan to be exact. The date on the PCB is 11/2/87, my oldest by far. My Zenith Z-150 might have been older but idk the date on it, didn't say anywhere. Keycaps arent DS, but amazing pad printed ones, have a very similar feel to Alps dyesubs. The board itself is pretty small actually.
The switches are light, on par with SKCL Green if not a little heavier. They feel more hollow than SKCM Blue, and are on par with SKCM White in that regard. They remind me a ton of the Model M. The way they go down, with that distinct 'two step' procedure if you will. Unique AF :thumb: It uses Alps stabs for everything but the spacebar which uses a clone of Cherry's style. Top notch stability especially for a 10U. Take away: A shorter travel and lighter Buckling Spring like switch that is pretty awesome! To me Omron copied SKCM Amber and SKCM Blue, the colors match and does the type of switch. Both Ambers have a big bump + click, and both Blue/Cyan are light, smooth and clicky. This add's to the mystery of SKCM Amber a bit.
The FK-555 could come with Cyan's as well, but only source I see for it is Sandy, whose site is in Japanese. Nobody here own's a Omron Focus from my research. The FK-747 is mentioned once in a 'identify the keyboard' thread' on Deskthority and the 727 has literally nothing on it. Wonder how many of these are left in the world.
The guy on craigslist never cleaned it even though it looks like it was cleaned. There is some gunk on the sides of the keycaps as evidence. So to me this board was barely used. Absolutely no dirt on the plate or inside. It does need a retrobright but for being so old its not bad at all. At first it didn't work with the lights flashing, but after replugging it a couple times and using a different 5 PIN < PS/2 adapter it worked.
The U key doesn't work, and Num 1 and 2 chatter. Chryos, since you have some experience with B3G-S, can you help out with repairing the switches?
And here are the pic's:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/F2OQAKE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/abEv7Sh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LUawvDV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hQs5jde.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i47H2F8.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HMa09Ey.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d7DvXse.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kZS5UvX.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xBZ2Apu.jpg)
credit to me for finding the pin <3
I just found my first Alps board, a variant of the NTC KB-6251 to be exact. It feels pretty good, despite being one big pile of dust(and I think even a bit of mold). The only thing I don't like about it is that the caps are insanely tight. I really am afraid of breaking at least half of them while disassembling it for a nice clean up.It's OK, just use wire pullers and pull straight up, should be fine :) .
The U key doesn't work, and Num 1 and 2 chatter.Your best bet is to just desolder those switches and swap them with some from a less important part of the board. While doing the swap you can try to disassemble, clean, and reassemble them, but it might not fix the problem.
Omrons aren’t too hard to take apart and put back together (you might have to desolder first), but they’re somewhat chattery out of the box. Not as effective a contact design as SKCM switches.
Omron wasn’t the only company to copy the blue color for light clicky switches: NEC, SMK, and Cherry also all made blue-slider light clicky switches after Alps had.
How do you like the switches? Jesse Vincent (aka obra, of keyboard.io) thought cyan B3G-S switches felt “almost like clicky linears”. They’re loud, but not very tactile at all. Personally I found them sorta interesting, but I don’t think I’d want to type on them for extended periods.
Awesome! A very nice board indeed :D . It's definitely a looker - did Focus ever make a board that wasn't just gorgeous?! It looks just like the 747 btw, do you know of any discrete differences yet?I have a surprise of my own. (E3E don't spoil it) A rare Focus board is coming in off craigslist ;DOooh, colour me excited :D . I love Focus stuff!
Your going to love it Chyros, knowing your love for Focus stuff :p
Well here we are Chryos, the unveil. The board that surprised even me! This board is the Focus FK-727, the 747's brother. Both to my knowledge extremely rare. 84 key AT/XT, 9 NKRO. Now, this board isn't SKCM Blue like I expected, or Alps at all. Its Omron B3G-S. Cyan to be exact. The date on the PCB is 11/2/87, my oldest by far. My Zenith Z-150 might have been older but idk the date on it, didn't say anywhere. Keycaps arent DS, but amazing pad printed ones, have a very similar feel to Alps dyesubs. The board itself is pretty small actually.
The switches are light, on par with SKCL Green if not a little heavier. They feel more hollow than SKCM Blue, and are on par with SKCM White in that regard. They remind me a ton of the Model M. The way they go down, with that distinct 'two step' procedure if you will. Unique AF :thumb: It uses Alps stabs for everything but the spacebar which uses a clone of Cherry's style. Top notch stability especially for a 10U. Take away: A shorter travel and lighter Buckling Spring like switch that is pretty awesome! To me Omron copied SKCM Amber and SKCM Blue, the colors match and does the type of switch. Both Ambers have a big bump + click, and both Blue/Cyan are light, smooth and clicky. This add's to the mystery of SKCM Amber a bit.
The FK-555 could come with Cyan's as well, but only source I see for it is Sandy, whose site is in Japanese. Nobody here own's a Omron Focus from my research. The FK-747 is mentioned once in a 'identify the keyboard' thread' on Deskthority and the 727 has literally nothing on it. Wonder how many of these are left in the world.
The guy on craigslist never cleaned it even though it looks like it was cleaned. There is some gunk on the sides of the keycaps as evidence. So to me this board was barely used. Absolutely no dirt on the plate or inside. It does need a retrobright but for being so old its not bad at all. At first it didn't work with the lights flashing, but after replugging it a couple times and using a different 5 PIN < PS/2 adapter it worked.
The U key doesn't work, and Num 1 and 2 chatter. Chryos, since you have some experience with B3G-S, can you help out with repairing the switches?
And here are the pic's:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/F2OQAKE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/abEv7Sh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LUawvDV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hQs5jde.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i47H2F8.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HMa09Ey.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d7DvXse.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kZS5UvX.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xBZ2Apu.jpg)
As for the switches, we all know from Sandy's report of course that zero-gen Focus boards like the 555 appeared to come with either blue Alps or cyan Omnoms, but it's nice to see another one pop up because the switches are so rare... I'd love to give them a god sometime :D . Could you make a typing video of them? Apparently they sound different from ambers.
As for repairing them; I really don't know what's WRONG with these switches that they are so low-fidelity. Other people have reported their failing too, and since I made that review, a few more switches on my Chicony have died without even using them.
I shipped a whole bunch of faulty ones to Orihalcon who seemed to have found a way to fix them, ask him :) .
So I'm lucky enough to score several SKCM Blues and SKCM Browns. I'm new to ALPS but have been doing some research and looking to put together a custom build with the upcoming VE.A, some ALPS to MX adapters and DSA PBT caps. If I generally have enojoyed 65g Zealios, 55g Silenced Topre and 62g Aristotle/Zealio hybrids, does anyone have a good suggestion which ones to use? I know tactile is quite different from clicky, but I'm worried that browns are stiff (I'm not a fan of MX Clears due to stiffness). Or should I consider SKCM Oranges instead? Thanks very much! :thumb:If you've scored them, can't you just try them out yourself and see how it feels??
So I'm lucky enough to score several SKCM Blues and SKCM Browns. I'm new to ALPS but have been doing some research and looking to put together a custom build with the upcoming VE.A, some ALPS to MX adapters and DSA PBT caps. If I generally have enojoyed 65g Zealios, 55g Silenced Topre and 62g Aristotle/Zealio hybrids, does anyone have a good suggestion which ones to use? I know tactile is quite different from clicky, but I'm worried that browns are stiff (I'm not a fan of MX Clears due to stiffness). Or should I consider SKCM Oranges instead? Thanks very much! :thumb:
So I'm lucky enough to score several SKCM Blues and SKCM Browns. I'm new to ALPS but have been doing some research and looking to put together a custom build with the upcoming VE.A, some ALPS to MX adapters and DSA PBT caps. If I generally have enojoyed 65g Zealios, 55g Silenced Topre and 62g Aristotle/Zealio hybrids, does anyone have a good suggestion which ones to use? I know tactile is quite different from clicky, but I'm worried that browns are stiff (I'm not a fan of MX Clears due to stiffness). Or should I consider SKCM Oranges instead? Thanks very much! :thumb:
Like others have said,I think it's best to try them yourself, good sir. Our perspectives can only offer so much insight. Zealios and SKCM Brown or SKCM Lime/Tactile Green feel nothing alike. They feel more like Topre. Salmon Alps feel more like Zealios and Orange Alps are cut from the same tree.
I just have no idea how to get the slider to work as it should.
Just got a floating shelf to display keyboards on rotation in my room. Might add more of these sometime since I LOVE the look. I just wish there were more studs in the only wall where this works for my room.
So, the first board I displayed was my Hebrew-capped Tai Hao Fame TH-5539, but I didn't take any pictures of that.
I did take pictures of another favorite of mine:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d1voNct.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JTdya6j.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/M6Ja9CP.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Sck8DO6.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5sFG2xP.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8qpbfeL.jpg)
It's my 1997 model, which I'd say is probably incredibly rare inside an already super small spectrum. It's got a US ISO layout. All of my others have long left shifts, but this one has a short one. I didn't even notice that detail until itzmeluigi pointed it out to me. :)
I just had to snag that little Docutech pin off of eBay in order to rep what is pretty much my favorite keyboard other than my FAME.
I'm building a brown skcm board soon. I think they feel more poppy then oranges. Stiffness isn't an issue for me but it may make your hands tired
I'm still settling for tactile brown alps :D
bbrown alps bb
Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160510/b9d19c99b619ee04b5e19163b32af362.jpg)
The pcb hasn't arrived yet, but I suspect I'll need to mod it for the spacebar at leastShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160510/b9d19c99b619ee04b5e19163b32af362.jpg)
Woah that is awesome, those gray caps look so good. Did the plate/switches align with the default PCB positions or did you have to drill out new ones?
Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160510/b9d19c99b619ee04b5e19163b32af362.jpg)
Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160510/b9d19c99b619ee04b5e19163b32af362.jpg)
Are those caps and plate from that Sharp typewriter? Wow that looks great! Gotta get myself a Sharp typewriter like yours and make one myself! Must be pretty cheap too compared to other customs.
I just have no idea how to get the slider to work as it should.
Open the case and help the piece along from the inside?
Apple is the poster child for the good, the bad, and the ugly. That mechanism is *really* bad.
Just got my IBM 5576-002 today, its in perfect condition. Alps plate spring is awesome :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bw9l6Yw.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VsKudCh.jpg)
I'd love a TKL board with Orange ALPS. I can't stand to game on clicky switches but don't like to type on linear switches.
**** THAT BOARD AND THE PIN IS SO HOT.
Since we're all throwing in typing videos, I wanted to play too. Here's a really old video (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58776.0).
Here ya go! They are a bit deeper than what is depicted in the video but it is pretty accurate.Interesting! They sound like ambers, but distinctly different from what I can tell, too - the amber Omnoms have a more "leafy" sound if that makes sense. And the cyans sound like they're quieter, too.
Just got my IBM 5576-002 today, its in perfect condition. Alps plate spring is awesome :DGorgeous. Beautiful board, and in amazing condition! Looking forward to trying Alps plate spring myself! 8)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/bw9l6Yw.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VsKudCh.jpg)
Just got my IBM 5576-002 today, its in perfect condition. Alps plate spring is awesome :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bw9l6Yw.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VsKudCh.jpg)
Lookout for the IBM P70 if you want to try plate mount. I'm not sure about the interface, as it was part of a laptop or PC, but they're ansi plate mount alps nonetheless.P70 / P75 are PCB-mounted “plate spring” switches, not plate-mounted switches.
So I'm lucky enough to score several SKCM Blues and SKCM Browns. [...] If I generally have enojoyed 65g Zealios, 55g Silenced Topre and 62g Aristotle/Zealio hybrids, does anyone have a good suggestion which ones to use? I know tactile is quite different from clicky, but I'm worried that browns are stiff (I'm not a fan of MX Clears due to stiffness). Or should I consider SKCM Oranges instead?55g Topre is also a very stiff switch. Personally I find brown Alps, 55g Topre, and MX clear to all be too stiff for my taste, and I don’t particularly enjoy the “rounded” force curve of Topre, brown/lime Alps, or Burroughs torsion spring switches. YMMV.
Just got a floating shelf to display keyboards on rotation in my room. Might add more of these sometime since I LOVE the look. I just wish there were more studs in the only wall where this works for my room.Gods, that is one beauty of a keyboard! And that matching mouse! :thumb: There's something about vintage electronics that makes me absolutely swoon!
So, the first board I displayed was my Hebrew-capped Tai Hao Fame TH-5539, but I didn't take any pictures of that.
I did take pictures of another favorite of mine:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d1voNct.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JTdya6j.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/M6Ja9CP.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Sck8DO6.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5sFG2xP.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8qpbfeL.jpg)
It's my 1997 model, which I'd say is probably incredibly rare inside an already super small spectrum. It's got a US ISO layout. All of my others have long left shifts, but this one has a short one. I didn't even notice that detail until itzmeluigi pointed it out to me. :)
I just had to snag that little Docutech pin off of eBay in order to rep what is pretty much my favorite keyboard other than my FAME.
Dang. I think 55g Topre is actually too light. :eek:
Slightly off topic, but if I find the above true and think that 65g Zealios are way too light, will 78g Zealios be too much?
Also, Orange Alps are just about perfect; what's the bottoming out force on those?
55 g on a relative scale is not stiff at all xD . Sure it might be too stiff for some people, but many switches are stiffer than that, sometimes considerably more so :) . Most Alps switches are fairly stiff.These “grams” numbers are misleading. 55g Topre feels about as stiff in practice as MX clear, brown Alps, or a Model M, in my abstract mental image of these switches. The Model M is higher peak force, but the catastrophic buckling of the spring changes the subjective feel dramatically.
So I'm lucky enough to score several SKCM Blues and SKCM Browns. [...] If I generally have enojoyed 65g Zealios, 55g Silenced Topre and 62g Aristotle/Zealio hybrids, does anyone have a good suggestion which ones to use? I know tactile is quite different from clicky, but I'm worried that browns are stiff (I'm not a fan of MX Clears due to stiffness). Or should I consider SKCM Oranges instead?55g Topre is also a very stiff switch. Personally I find brown Alps, 55g Topre, and MX clear to all be too stiff for my taste, and I don’t particularly enjoy the “rounded” force curve of Topre, brown/lime Alps, or Burroughs torsion spring switches. YMMV.
Good condition orange and blue Alps switches are both really fantastic switches if you want something lightly–crisply tactile, two of the most enjoyable typing experiences. You can’t go wrong with either of those. The blue ones in particular are IMO the most “elegant” sounding clicky switch you can find. If you want something a bit snappier, then white Alps switches and SMK clicky switches are also great.
So I'm lucky enough to score several SKCM Blues and SKCM Browns. [...] If I generally have enojoyed 65g Zealios, 55g Silenced Topre and 62g Aristotle/Zealio hybrids, does anyone have a good suggestion which ones to use? I know tactile is quite different from clicky, but I'm worried that browns are stiff (I'm not a fan of MX Clears due to stiffness). Or should I consider SKCM Oranges instead?55g Topre is also a very stiff switch. Personally I find brown Alps, 55g Topre, and MX clear to all be too stiff for my taste, and I don’t particularly enjoy the “rounded” force curve of Topre, brown/lime Alps, or Burroughs torsion spring switches. YMMV.
Good condition orange and blue Alps switches are both really fantastic switches if you want something lightly–crisply tactile, two of the most enjoyable typing experiences. You can’t go wrong with either of those. The blue ones in particular are IMO the most “elegant” sounding clicky switch you can find. If you want something a bit snappier, then white Alps switches and SMK clicky switches are also great.
Looks like I might have to build 2 alps boards in that case! For me, the topre 55g feels wonderful to type on but it does get tiring for long sessions.
In terms of sound is the Matias Quiet Click or SKCM Orange quieter than the Browns?
Some time ago my best pal asked if I didn't have a spare keyboard, as he urgently needed something for his mum, a retired GP doctor. So I said LOL, okay, but it's gonna be oooold. There's a whole box of them old Dells, if a key doesn't work or something like that just come back and pick another one, just can't guarantee it won't be a particularly bad shade of yellow. He didn't come back, and the 'board supposedly is great. Also gave one of them to a Ph.D. student in literature and another to a coder. That means I should still have seven left. Ironically, while I appreciate the uncommon speed you can type on them with (compared to anything else, include blue Majestouch), I somehow can't use one myself. I worry about missing characters if I don't realize something's odd with them, and as a professional translator I would face a lot of disproportionate hate over a typo or missing plural or something else like that.
Some time ago my best pal asked if I didn't have a spare keyboard, as he urgently needed something for his mum, a retired GP doctor. So I said LOL, okay, but it's gonna be oooold. There's a whole box of them old Dells, if a key doesn't work or something like that just come back and pick another one, just can't guarantee it won't be a particularly bad shade of yellow. He didn't come back, and the 'board supposedly is great. Also gave one of them to a Ph.D. student in literature and another to a coder. That means I should still have seven left. Ironically, while I appreciate the uncommon speed you can type on them with (compared to anything else, include blue Majestouch), I somehow can't use one myself. I worry about missing characters if I don't realize something's odd with them, and as a professional translator I would face a lot of disproportionate hate over a typo or missing plural or something else like that.
Thats cool. Dell AT101/W's I assume? If they love SKCM Black just wait until they try SKCM Blue or Orange.
Some time ago my best pal asked if I didn't have a spare keyboard, as he urgently needed something for his mum, a retired GP doctor. So I said LOL, okay, but it's gonna be oooold. There's a whole box of them old Dells, if a key doesn't work or something like that just come back and pick another one, just can't guarantee it won't be a particularly bad shade of yellow. He didn't come back, and the 'board supposedly is great. Also gave one of them to a Ph.D. student in literature and another to a coder. That means I should still have seven left. Ironically, while I appreciate the uncommon speed you can type on them with (compared to anything else, include blue Majestouch), I somehow can't use one myself. I worry about missing characters if I don't realize something's odd with them, and as a professional translator I would face a lot of disproportionate hate over a typo or missing plural or something else like that.
Thats cool. Dell AT101/W's I assume? If they love SKCM Black just wait until they try SKCM Blue or Orange.
Plain old black 101/202W's, yeah. Some preceding Win 95 (no Win key), some not, probably all of them at least 20 years old. I bought like 10 of them for 75 bucks or something, in Polish currency. I don't think I've literally tested them all, but some probably still have all keys in order. I once ordered blue Alps, from a fellow Geekhacker, but they didn't arrive. What a massive pity.
Courtesy of E3E: Two new switches confirmed SKCL Amber and SKCL Brown Lock! Will be adding these to the wiki.These are both from the Gold Star factory in Korea, right?
Courtesy of E3E: Two new switches confirmed SKCL Amber and SKCL Brown Lock! Will be adding these to the wiki.These are both from the Gold Star factory in Korea, right?
Courtesy of E3E: Two new switches confirmed SKCL Amber and SKCL Brown Lock! Will be adding these to the wiki.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NVREPYn.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C7JSv3r.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JfD2dRK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b2JNRSy.jpg)
What do they feel like?! So exciting :D. I would love to just try those switches out!!Seems like the linear ones should be like other linear Alps switches (are the springs similar to green SKCLs?) and the locking ones should be pretty much the same as other Alps lock switches.
Courtesy of E3E: Two new switches confirmed SKCL Amber and SKCL Brown Lock! Will be adding these to the wiki.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NVREPYn.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C7JSv3r.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JfD2dRK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b2JNRSy.jpg)
What do they feel like?! So exciting :D. I would love to just try those switches out!!
Based on what I've tried, I'd say the switches weights go like this:Uhhh, I'm assuming you mean it the other way around? xD
Green > Yellow > Brown & Cream (practically identical feel) > SKCL Grey & SKCL Amber.
Courtesy of E3E: Two new switches confirmed SKCL Amber and SKCL Brown Lock! Will be adding these to the wiki.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NVREPYn.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C7JSv3r.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JfD2dRK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b2JNRSy.jpg)
What do they feel like?! So exciting :D. I would love to just try those switches out!!
Well, the sliders for these switches have symmetrical notches on each side like all of the older linear switches and unlike SKCL Grey and SKCL Yellow.
Based on what I've tried, I'd say the switches weights go like this:
Green > Yellow > Brown & Cream (practically identical feel) > SKCL Grey & SKCL Amber.
There's also SKCL Heavy Green, which I just tried out and compared to the others. It seems to be around the same weight of Alps SKCL Brown and Cream. Like Jacobolus said, the Brown SKCL Lock is pretty much just a normal SKCL Lock with a different colored slider. They feel the same. :)
I think SKCL Amber (formerly known as taxi yellow) was known about though. I believe it can be found in some old SKCL Green boards as well.
Do any of them use SKCM Salmon?Hmmm… this is going to make me like a n00b (and for good reason), but I didn't actually check all of them. I simply assumed all of them would be blacks, as coming from the same source at the same price (post-leasing boards), and they felt exactly the same in touch all of them, but if they have different production years and slightly different layouts, they might as well use different switches too. Gotta check.
Where did you get the SKCL Heavy Grey from?
Uhhh, I'm assuming you mean it the other way around? xD
Hmmm… this is going to make me like a n00b (and for good reason), but I didn't actually check all of them. I simply assumed all of them would be blacks, as coming from the same source at the same price (post-leasing boards), and they felt exactly the same in touch all of them, but if they have different production years and slightly different layouts, they might as well use different switches too. Gotta check.
Just finished my 60% with custom cut and painted plate. Had to do some rework with hasu's pcb as the spacebar isn't supported. Luckily it all worked out nicely:Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160515/863b2b5b761cac458f8aa459ee7f835a.jpg)
ziptyze plastic 3d printed caseJust finished my 60% with custom cut and painted plate. Had to do some rework with hasu's pcb as the spacebar isn't supported. Luckily it all worked out nicely:Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160515/863b2b5b761cac458f8aa459ee7f835a.jpg)
I like those caps. What case is that?
Quick question...It definitely feel less tactile than vintage ones, say salmons and blacks which are basically the maximum tactility I can bear. Quiet clicks feels shallower and softer to type, which is pleasant in its own right. It feels bouncy to type on.
I'm thinking about buying either the PC version of the Matias Tactile Pro or the Quiet Pro.
I like the idea of the Quiet Click keys not making massive amounts of noise, but I'm worried that the tactile feel of the keys would be compromised to achieve this.
How do I choose between the two, without having the chance to try them out?
Also, there are no other (full sized) keyboards on the market with ALPS-like switches, are there?
Quick question...
I'm thinking about buying either the PC version of the Matias Tactile Pro or the Quiet Pro.
I like the idea of the Quiet Click keys not making massive amounts of noise, but I'm worried that the tactile feel of the keys would be compromised to achieve this.
How do I choose between the two, without having the chance to try them out?
Also, there are no other (full sized) keyboards on the market with ALPS-like switches, are there?
Quick question...Buy the Quiet Clicks. They are wonderful switches, and I think they feel even better than the clicky ones.
I'm thinking about buying either the PC version of the Matias Tactile Pro or the Quiet Pro.
I like the idea of the Quiet Click keys not making massive amounts of noise, but I'm worried that the tactile feel of the keys would be compromised to achieve this.
How do I choose between the two, without having the chance to try them out?
Also, there are no other (full sized) keyboards on the market with ALPS-like switches, are there?
To make it easier on yourself, just look out for the beige-cased ones with the OLD Dell logo on them. Out of these, only the ones made in the USA will have Salmon Alps. You can check this by looking at the FCC ID label on the back of the keyboard. :thumb:
The '97SK version came with pine black Alps which are MUCH better than the later bamboo ones used in the '95SK and '90SK. They're really nice switches, much closer to salmon and orange Alps than to bamboo blacks. It even includes a steel weight to make it heavier, which wasn't present on GYI Bigfoots nor on the '90SK.To make it easier on yourself, just look out for the beige-cased ones with the OLD Dell logo on them. Out of these, only the ones made in the USA will have Salmon Alps. You can check this by looking at the FCC ID label on the back of the keyboard. :thumb:
I wasn't able to remove a keycap safely, but all of them had the new logo and GYU numbers (not GYI), so according to this (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Dell_AT101), they should all be blacks. There is some difference in feel between older and newer ones. Newer ones are crisper but rougher, older ones more similar to newer Model M's and a bit thocky — or was it the other way round? Probably not enough to feel like a separate type of switch but not entirely the same either.
Buy the Quiet Clicks. They are wonderful switches, and I think they feel even better than the clicky ones.
They make no click as they're actually tactile switches; the Quiet Click name is a poorly chosen, misleading name. Due to the way Alps tactile and click leaves work, tactile switches are less tactile than clicky ones. Matias appears to have slightly compensated for this, though.Buy the Quiet Clicks. They are wonderful switches, and I think they feel even better than the clicky ones.
Oh that's interesting to hear!
So they make less of a click sound, but still have a good tactile feel to them?
They make no click as they're actually tactile switches; the Quiet Click name is a poorly chosen, misleading name. Due to the way Alps tactile and click leaves work, tactile switches are less tactile than clicky ones. Matias appears to have slightly compensated for this, though.Buy the Quiet Clicks. They are wonderful switches, and I think they feel even better than the clicky ones.
Oh that's interesting to hear!
So they make less of a click sound, but still have a good tactile feel to them?
they're closer to dampened Alps than black ones. Dampened Alps aren't for everyone, but many still enjoy them.They make no click as they're actually tactile switches; the Quiet Click name is a poorly chosen, misleading name. Due to the way Alps tactile and click leaves work, tactile switches are less tactile than clicky ones. Matias appears to have slightly compensated for this, though.Buy the Quiet Clicks. They are wonderful switches, and I think they feel even better than the clicky ones.
Oh that's interesting to hear!
So they make less of a click sound, but still have a good tactile feel to them?
Am I right in recalling that the Quiet Click switches are (more or less) a descendant of the old simplified black ALPS?
If so, I may have to pick up a keyboard with them sometime. Heard a few too many complaints about MQP quality relative to the price, though, and as someone who uses a lot of rollover, being limited to 6KRO is a pretty big turnoff. Ah well-- hopefully more manufacturers will adopt them in the future.
Got my fk-2001 with alps.tw Type T1 white alps clones. Holy crap they are nice! Not quite buckling spring nice but still even better than I was expecting.Some clone types are much better than others, T1 and OA2 are much closer in construction to real Alps than others, making them feel quite like Alps, just a bit lighter. I've found them to be pretty good :) .
Burn the heretic ;D
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7tlOnyH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/W1Sdx7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/49Nj7WK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gQJX1ia.jpg)
Put some interesting non-sculpted cylindrical caps from a typewriter onto my Hammer Alps Eagle. They're actually pretty pleasant to type on since the case has a natural incline, but it's just a shame that the mods don't fit with the profile.
Try salmons. Though other springs like blacks or white should work as well I guess.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7tlOnyH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/W1Sdx7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/49Nj7WK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gQJX1ia.jpg)
Put some interesting non-sculpted cylindrical caps from a typewriter onto my Hammer Alps Eagle. They're actually pretty pleasant to type on since the case has a natural incline, but it's just a shame that the mods don't fit with the profile.
I've been looking around for the different typewriters that used alps caps- which one did you harvest from? those caps are really attractive!
I've got an SGI case and plate and PCB, but no switches or caps :( I think it has an offset capslock, so I need to get a set with one, or else it'll be wonky as all hell.
I love the Orange Alps on my M0116, but sorta wish they were a bit heavier- are there any springs available for alps to make them a bit heavier?
It looks like i-Rocks is working with alps.tw to develop a Alps switch with optional sound dampening AND MX keycap compatibility.Where by “Alps switch” you mean new type of tactile leaf we haven’t seen before, non-Alps-compatible spring, non-Alps compatible pinout with a big plastic blob sticking out the bottom, totally new type of slider with MX keycap mount, roughly APC / "type OA1" style contact, and big square housing shell.
Yeah, I agree completely, this isn't really that Alpsy at all when you think about it. And tbh the idea of a tactile leaf wasn't even invented by Alps, so it could have been based on anything xD .It looks like i-Rocks is working with alps.tw to develop a Alps switch with optional sound dampening AND MX keycap compatibility.Where by “Alps switch” you mean new type of tactile leaf we haven’t seen before, non-Alps-compatible spring, non-Alps compatible pinout with a big plastic blob sticking out the bottom, totally new type of slider with MX keycap mount, roughly APC / "type OA1" style contact, and big square housing shell.
Could be a nice switch (probably better than any tactile MX switch, but that’s a very low bar), but it doesn’t have much to do with Alps beyond possibly the original inspiration for the click/tactile leaf.
Marquardt plate spring switches.
Between Zealios and their upcoming silent mods and now this Matias is going to have a very tough time...
https://uccu.cool3c.com/projects/266
It looks like i-Rocks is working with alps.tw to develop a Alps switch with optional sound dampening AND MX keycap compatibility.
Marquardt plate spring switches.
If these are what I've been calling Marquardt butterfly switches....all of the yes. Do plate Alps feel like the Marquardt butterfly switches you showed me in SF?
If these are what I've been calling Marquardt butterfly switches....all of the yes. Do plate Alps feel like the Marquardt butterfly switches you showed me in SF?IBM (“beam spring”), Marquardt, and Alps plate spring have a similar concept (coil spring + buckling metal "plate" spring), but all three feel quite different from each other. I personally find Alps plate spring to be a bit less tactile than my preference, and find IBM and Marquardt versions to be a bit too stiff. If designing a remake, I think a new switch could potentially be better than any of these.
If these are what I've been calling Marquardt butterfly switches....all of the yes. Do plate Alps feel like the Marquardt butterfly switches you showed me in SF?IBM (“beam spring”), Marquardt, and Alps plate spring have a similar concept (spring + buckling metal "plate"), but all three feel quite different from each other.
CPT: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg2116911#msg2116911
Chyros, have you every tried out a full keyboard of Matias switches? I know you've looked at them some, but I've found typing on a switch is much different than just actuating a loose switch. For example, I thought I'd love stock MX Clears after playing with them on a switch tester, but after getting a keyboard with them, it turns out I absolutely ****ing hate them, lol!I agree, and no, unfortunately I haven't!
So I bought a NeXT Non ADB board w/ SKCM Cream....What do you think? These switches are very very similar to “salmon” switches, but (assuming good condition) a bit smoother.
So I bought a NeXT Non ADB board w/ SKCM Cream....What do you think? These switches are very very similar to “salmon” switches, but (assuming good condition) a bit smoother.
All black clueboard I've been working on that uses quiet clicks, still needs a bit of work but took some pics of the progress.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oJ1hbCQ.jpg)
http://imgur.com/a/vdiAj more here
Hmm, have you tried them? Ordered the board last night so I haven't gotten my hands on it. Was kinda hoping they would be a bit more unique than that, but whatever. Cool to own the board the internet was created on. Aren't these related to SKCM Blue as well, from the wiki they look to be directly non clicky blues.Actually I believe that picture in the wiki is from a few years earlier (1986–7?), showing the type of SKCM switch found in certain Canon typewriters, which uses a different slider shape and slightly stiffer spring than the “cream” switches in NeXT keyboards; it’s also a slightly different slider color. I could be wrong about that though; we don’t know too much else about that catalog picture.
Thanks for driving up the hype, MattR! >:D
Now I just bought one before "it's too late," myself. Haha. Well, I just had to try one of the very last switches I've yet to experience in the Alps world. Now the only other ones I've got to try are the esoteric ones found in the Canon typewriter and the NEC Heavy Grey Alps switches.
And then I've tried every known-ish Alps switch.
Though there is that weird brown tactile switch with the more standard tactile leaves that one Korean site documented. No idea what's up with those, but eh.
The Alps Vortex™ is real, but I'm pretty satisfied with what I have now.
Has anyone tried removing the dampers on Matias Quiet Click? I'm in the market for a good tactile ALPS board but don't care for dampened alps much.So much cruelty in one post ! :-[
Has anyone tried removing the dampers on Matias Quiet Click? I'm in the market for a good tactile ALPS board but don't care for dampened alps much.
Matt, Thanks for that review and the heads up! Now I'm very excited to get my board. Hope I get a good copy like yours. Didn't expect the keycaps to be so nice also. How to you compare these cream switches to SKCM Browns?
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I really love this board. SKCM Cream is hands down my favorite switch outside SKCM Blue, and that's saying a lot. SKCM Orange or Salmon has got nothing on this. They are extremely smooth and the way they actuate and pop up is glorious.These feel very similar to salmon switches IMO. Orange switches are also pretty similar, but a bit less stiff. Maybe the orange/salmon switches you tried weren’t in as nice condition?
The caps are some of the best, better than Alps dyesubs?Alps-made cylindrical doubleshot keycaps are nice, but not as nice as Alps-made dyesubs IMO. With clicky switches, I can imagine some people preferring the ABS caps for the louder sound.
You bought a NeXT as well? Lol, ever since I bought one I have seemed to bring up the hype, E3E and you.
Haven't tried SKCM Brown, but will on Saturday. Getting one sent to me.
I really love this board. SKCM Cream is hands down my favorite switch outside SKCM Blue, and that's saying a lot. SKCM Orange or Salmon has got nothing on this. They are extremely smooth and the way they actuate and pop up is glorious.These feel very similar to salmon switches IMO. Orange switches are also pretty similar, but a bit less stiff. Maybe the orange/salmon switches you tried weren’t in as nice condition?
I’m a bit jealous, because I asked the same seller to send me his two best-condition $25 boards a couple months ago, and yours seems to be in better shape than either of the them. :-)QuoteThe caps are some of the best, better than Alps dyesubs?Alps-made cylindrical doubleshot keycaps are nice, but not as nice as Alps-made dyesubs IMO. With clicky switches, I can imagine some people preferring the ABS caps for the louder sound.
You bought a NeXT as well? Lol, ever since I bought one I have seemed to bring up the hype, E3E and you.
Haven't tried SKCM Brown, but will on Saturday. Getting one sent to me.
Well, it's one of the last switches I've yet to try, so I figured why not. Seeing as they are seemingly closely related to blue Alps, I can imagine them feeling similar. You might've just started a scramble for these boards though. Try not to create another bubble, a creamy tactile alps bubble. :P And yeah, I did make sure NeXT board was an "AAE" model, Mattr.
I paid for a "Nice" condition version, and so I paid $11 more plus shipping. No idea if the shipping is higher or lower for me down here, but I suspect it might be. I'm just really looking for the board to complete my main switch collection. My 2nd hotswappable Eagle is probably going to be host to mainly tactile switches. Have SKCM Brown in there now, but I'll likely swap to Salmons and Creams and Oranges, etc as time passes. Neon Greens are staying in my Docutechs though. :P
That said, I so have another backlit Alps board that I used switches that are very much on par with the SKCM Green's rarity, or close enough anyway. :PShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/LH7VZ8s.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/D84I9O3.jpg)
This was a lot of work and I hardly took any pictures. :) IT WAS A HELL OF A LOT OF WORK, haha. These caps are fantastic for linears, but I do prefer PBT for tactile and clicky. Very quiet though.Show Image(http://puu.sh/p31Vr/899d105111.jpg)
This is the only non-hotswappable Alps build I've made. The indicators LEDs are hotswappable though--used holtites for them.
The coiled cable is a mock up a the moment; I'm still waiting for the connectors to come in. I'm just using a throwaway USB cable at the moment, but I plan to keep the board USB and I'm not going to hardwire a cable to it.
Ok good, didn't want ya to end up with SKCM Black by mistake. I think I may have started a scramble lol. People forgot all about these boards with their rare switches and awesome Alps black DS caps. All I know is that I made that sellers day! Can't wait to hear your opinions on SKCM Cream. IMHO its a great switch.
I'm not sure why but I really enjoy the NeXT itself. Think you will too. Its such a nice thing, idk how to describe it. Maybe its finally getting away from all the beige lol. The logo is amazing. The green accents also make it unique :thumb: Will you be converting it or just having it for the switches? Either way it makes a great display piece like you did w/ the Docutech's.
Ok good, didn't want ya to end up with SKCM Black by mistake. I think I may have started a scramble lol. People forgot all about these boards with their rare switches and awesome Alps black DS caps. All I know is that I made that sellers day! Can't wait to hear your opinions on SKCM Cream. IMHO its a great switch.I'd say Alps doubleshots and Alps dyesubs of the same profile are equals. Beyond that, it's a matter of preference. I prefer ABS for linear switches and PBT for everything else. SGI, Wang, AT101, Heath Zenith, IBM 5140, Xerox 6085 and Docutech--all of these have PBT caps from Alps Electric and they're all the same in terms of build quality and thickness. Differences being the homing area and legends and such.
I'm not sure why but I really enjoy the NeXT itself. Think you will too. Its such a nice thing, idk how to describe it. Maybe its finally getting away from all the beige lol. The logo is amazing. The green accents also make it unique :thumb: Will you be converting it or just having it for the switches? Either way it makes a great display piece like you did w/ the Docutech's.
Being that NeXT boards have Alps doubleshots, I'm sure they're nice. They are one of the few Alps boards I can think of with WoBish doubleshots. I've got a set of IBM Multistation spherical caps coming my way from a friend. I would love to see how the spherical dyesubs on the C.Itoh LK201 clone board are.
If the NeXT is in great condition, I'll have to consider whether or not I'd want to use it for its switches. I'll have to figure out if it beats out SKCM Brown in terms of my favorite tactile that isn't Neon Green, haha. Yeah, my 1997 model Docutech and its mouse are always on display. With that pin, it's just the nicest vintage to display, I think, plus with it's unique short left shift US layout. It's fun. :D
I wouldn't have really minded a NeXT with pine SKCM Blacks as those seem quite nice, but of course I wouldn't want to pay $53 for that. I'd settle on the $25er version for pine Blacks, haha. I've noticed these ever since you brought up SKCM Cream waaay back and I looked into it, but I was never so interested since the NeXT boards were always just sitting on eBay. Didn't care much, but after amassing a bit of a collection and with your hype, I guess now is the time. :P
I don't know if you realized up there, but that NCR keyboard is usually used with Cherry switches and caps. :PShow Image(http://puu.sh/p1T7X/0070b9f80d.JPG)
I don't know if anyone else built something Alps-based with their Leeku 3000 PCBs back when they had Alps compatibility. I'm not even sure how many of those sold, but since, like the Duck Eagle and Lightpad and Infinity v2 PCB, it can use MX and Alps, that means it was also suitable for backlighting. Right now I've technically got four key-things suitable for backlighting, but only two actively using it.
My Lightpad, the Eagles, and the NCR build, with only the first Eagle actively using linears as well as the NCR using the brown Alps linears. The others are hotswapped so I could make them all 100% backlit, but I didn't want ALL linear builds. I used to have backlit brown linear mods on my 2nd Eagle, but I decided to go all SKCM Brown at the moment. Still need a case for that one though.
That NCR uses Alps? That's trippy. What caps are those?! Cherry profile Alps?! Thats really cool.
Since I have SKCM Brown coming on Saturday from alien I will have to do the same but the other way around lol. Yea as I said earlier Alps dyesubs and DS caps are equal to me as well. I plan to build a converter with TMK and make it a daily possibly. It has almost everything there, it just needs some software to add F keys and such. Don't want to shine those like new caps however.
With the Matias Clicky switch, can someone tell me where the activation and reset points are, relative to...I'd estimate it to be about 35% down from the top with a nice cushioned spring back at the bottom. It's pretty nice.
Top
Start of "bump"
End of "bump"
Bottom-out
With the Matias Clicky switch, can someone tell me where the activation and reset points are, relative to...I'd estimate it to be about 35% down from the top with a nice cushioned spring back at the bottom. It's pretty nice.
Top
Start of "bump"
End of "bump"
Bottom-out
Is the reset point the same as the activation point?
I'm just worried about too much hysteresis (like Cherry Blues, eww)
Is the reset point the same as the activation point?
I'm just worried about too much hysteresis (like Cherry Blues, eww)
I found a new variant of SKCM Cream. The wiki says SKCM Cream switches lack the Alps logo on the top, while SKCM Cream Damped switches all appear to have the Alps logo, so this may be a good visual indicator for differentiating the two switchesYou are talking about a different switch than the wiki is talking about. If yours have the logo on top, do they also have a tall white switchplate inside? There are also some orange and blue Alps switches with a logo on top and a tall white switchplate, I believe. The last generation before the switchover to short switchplates and new slider colors. I believe some of the NeXT keyboards still have no-logo switches with tall gray switchplates (but should be otherwise about the same as yours).
Hmm, have you tried them? Ordered the board last night so I haven't gotten my hands on it. Was kinda hoping they would be a bit more unique than that, but whatever. Cool to own the board the internet was created on. Aren't these related to SKCM Blue as well, from the wiki they look to be directly non clicky blues.Actually I believe that [catalog] picture in the wiki is from a few years earlier (1986–7?), showing the type of SKCM switch found in certain Canon typewriters, which uses a different slider shape and slightly stiffer spring than the “cream” switches in NeXT keyboards; it’s also a slightly different slider color. I could be wrong about that though; we don’t know too much else about that catalog picture.
The ones in early (~1989?) NeXT keyboards are nearly identical stiffness to salmon switches, but with tall switchplate and the same kind of plastics and lubricant as blue/orange/green Alps.
Doing some rough comparisons my SKCM Cream's seem to be heavier than Orange but lighter than Salmon.That’s about right. They’re very close to salmon switches though. If you handed someone a pair of keyboards with the two switch types to try back to back, they’d have a very difficult time distinguishing the two.
Adafruit seems to have made a converter for the NeXT protocol from what I remember seeing a while back, so you can probably work off that if their work is openly available. The NeXT is a super cool and different board. It's like a more ambitious 65% with its lack of F row keys but with everything else. It's a very sleek and slim keyboard for the day by the look of it. I'd totally use it if it was just plug and play.
What caps are you going to use on the board? I've got some unshined AT101 caps and I threw them on my Orion v2 and pretty much immediately took them off because I didn't want to shine them, haha.
These FAME caps though, they're completely NOS, but I've pretty much decided that this board will be a very utilitarian build for me because I love using these switches and the board is light to boot. I actually don't like the look of the NCR as much as I do my other Alps boards, but due to the work put into it and the concept of it all, it's still a favorite.
I do remember you mentioning those on DT, but I don't recall any pictures detailing those differences. Not trying to deny that though, but it's hard to say which is -the- example in the wiki article on the switches, since it could be a white balance or exposure issue that makes the switches appear that way in photos. Can you take any detailed photos showing the differences between the two top housings and perhaps the springs?
Mattr's here is very pale:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UfWEcTB.jpg)
Meanwhile, the wiki's example seems a slight bit more "cream":Show Image(https://deskthority.net/w/images/5/55/Alps_SKCM_Cream_--_upper_components.jpg)
Actually, the Mousefan pictures looks like the same type of switch as the NeXT switches:
http://mousefan.telcontar.net/image/c1414a.htm
Seems to have no logo but a tall white switchplate. So the minor variant immediately prior to Matt’s.
So I guess what I should have said is, “the DT wiki is combining two different switches into one page.” Which is probably fine, but should be clarified. Someone should also add snuci’s or Matt’s NeXT keyboard pics to that page.
I’ll try to remember to take some pictures of the inside of a typewriter switch tomorrow.
Despite coming in a "box" that looked like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sAhfI3l.jpg?1)
The board was unharmed.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b3PTiHb.jpg)
Here it is with is Cherry look-alike Alps brother. Alps: The Masquerade.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/m85UltW.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BrVtNrq.jpg)
Cleaned it up a bit, but it is in good condition. Probably should've gone for a $25 model, but hey. I love the look though; very sleek design.
The rubber strip around the board is very odd, though I do like it too. The switches are really interesting. They feel around the same weight as Alps SKCM Blue, if not a wee bit stiffer. They don't feel as stiff as Salmons, in my opinion. They're pretty nice, actually. I think I'd pick them over Salmon and Orange, though it would be a close call between these and Orange Alps.
Might need to pick up a NeXT with pine blacks so that I can compare those to the rest of the tactile family. In my tests with Neon Green, you could get the same exact feel as pines or bamboos simply by switching their tops; there was no difference otherwise, so the same is probably true of pine black vs bamboo.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fTS7oNC.jpg)
NEXT! :thumb:
I knew you'd like the design lol. Its so sleek. Yours looks to be in a very similar condition to mine. Whats the date on your controller? Also do your SKCM Cream's have logos?
SKCM Cream is the perfect blend of Orange and Salmon imo. So besides SKCM Neon Green this is your favorite tactile switch then? How can you get away from that logo :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ypcz40N.jpg)
Should I build my own NeXT converter or buy one off Hasu? Both would use TMK.
So what are you going to do with it now? Convert it or showcase it?
Should I build my own NeXT converter or buy one off Hasu? Both would use TMK.
Got the switches in, they make a great addition to my tester!
SKCM Brown is very interesting. A tad heavier than SKCM Salmon but with a much bugger bump outside of Amber. Very snappy, reminds me of SKCM Cream in that regard but even better. Its a tossup between this and SKCM Cream. Brown is a little too heavy but I love the snappiness. Would love to use both.
SKCL Cream is a nice rarity ;D Heavier than SKCL Yellow but smoother, not SKCL Green smooth however.
Now on my list:
SKCL Grey
SKCL Brown
SKCM Black (tried but need a switch)
SKCM Green
I believe the top housings for the typewriter switches here and SKCM brown switches are the same, though it’s been a while since I took apart a brown switch, so I could be misremembering.
Thanks to this thread I'm becoming a true convert. And Matt, thanks for the heads up on the Next board -- can't wait to try them! Not only are SKCM browns making me rethink Zealios being my default, but the SKCL browns are reintroducing me the love of linears. If somehow I can get my hands on a neon green board, it'll complete my journey into the rabbit hole ;) Unfortunately, I won't be able to compare the SKCM ivories against the browns yet since I'm travelling. But all indications that the apparent roundedness of the browns will make me stay.
I'm also planning my build for my upcoming VE.A board. Does anyone have comparisons of SKCM blues vs. Aristotles? Looking to find my favorite clicky :)
Thanks to this thread I'm becoming a true convert. And Matt, thanks for the heads up on the Next board -- can't wait to try them! Not only are SKCM browns making me rethink Zealios being my default, but the SKCL browns are reintroducing me the love of linears. If somehow I can get my hands on a neon green board, it'll complete my journey into the rabbit hole ;) Unfortunately, I won't be able to compare the SKCM ivories against the browns yet since I'm travelling. But all indications that the apparent roundedness of the browns will make me stay.
I'm also planning my build for my upcoming VE.A board. Does anyone have comparisons of SKCM blues vs. Aristotles? Looking to find my favorite clicky :)
I put vintage Cherry MX Whites in Zealio housings much like Zeal proposed an Aristotle-like clone Zealio switch. They sound is pleasant but varies heavily depending on key cap choice. Personally, I don't think either can hold a candle to SKCM Blue, and I also have to say that there isn't any other Alps clicky switch that really comes close to blues.
Alps SKCM Amber is stiff and very tactile but its click is very lackluster.
Alps SKCM White is somewhat stiff and a bit more tactile than SKCM Blue, but the click is no where near as satisfying.
Neither of these are as smooth.
I understand taking apart a Docutech for the Neon Greens if the board is absolutely tattered, but if you find one that's in decent shape and tear it apart, that'd be an injustice. :p
Would anyone be interested in my FK-727 w/ Cyan Omron B3G-S?Yes! :D
Model F > MX Blue > Blue Alps > every other clicky switch.(a) I assume you haven’t tried very many types of clicky switches, and (b) MX blue is a weird preference, regardless.
Model F > MX Blue > Blue Alps > every other clicky switch.
(a) I assume you haven’t tried very many types of clicky switches, and (b) MX blue is a weird preference, regardless.
I'm sure you and anyone really would. Blue alps are worth more. Maybe I'm the odd man out, but blue alps are some of the most overrated switches I've ever had the misfortune to use.
I've looked at it, HHKB won't do it for me. It has to be TKLVery heavily debating between a Matias Quiet Click or a NovaTouch, battle of the tactiles!
hhkb
I've looked at it, HHKB won't do it for me. It has to be TKLVery heavily debating between a Matias Quiet Click or a NovaTouch, battle of the tactiles!
hhkb
Money is a little tight, which is why I'm looking at the NovaTouch.
hmm, get a hhkb? I'd gat a 55g Realforce over novatouch
price is relative at this point. I have paid a lot for many things now, and if it's great , it's worth it. Just not a fan of blue alps
I feel calling SKCM Blue prices "insane" is a bit hyperbolic at this point. Yes, they are still high, but it's not difficult to get a more common board like the DC-2014 for $100-$130.
I'm going to just go for the Matias Quiet Click. I was just playing with a Matias Click switch and love how smooth and snappy it is and I love the ever so slightly shorter travel of ALPS in general.
Now I just have to choose whether I want the Matias Quiet Mini or the KBParadise V80, first world problem.
V80 since it has a standard bottom row.
Well earlier at least. I'm talking $200+
I'm going to just go for the Matias Quiet Click. I was just playing with a Matias Click switch and love how smooth and snappy it is and I love the ever so slightly shorter travel of ALPS in general.
Now I just have to choose whether I want the Matias Quiet Mini or the KBParadise V80, first world problem.
I do too, I would really like a TKL board with orange alps.
I suppose I could just get the V80 and then some day in the future I can buy an AEK 1 and do a switch swap.
I do too, I would really like a TKL board with orange alps.
I suppose I could just get the V80 and then some day in the future I can buy an AEK 1 and do a switch swap.
Cough cough (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.0)
Oh my, that certainly is an annoying cough.
I do too, I would really like a TKL board with orange alps.
I suppose I could just get the V80 and then some day in the future I can buy an AEK 1 and do a switch swap.
Cough cough (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.0)
Oh my, that certainly is an annoying cough.
I've never been involved with one of those partys/massif, how do they work?
I do too, I would really like a TKL board with orange alps.
I suppose I could just get the V80 and then some day in the future I can buy an AEK 1 and do a switch swap.
Cough cough (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.0)
Oh my, that certainly is an annoying cough.
I've never been involved with one of those partys/massif, how do they work?
When the GB launches, people will tell me what they want. When it is closed, I invoice participants for the cost and order the things. By buying as a group, we get a better price. It will probably take a month or two for me to get everything sent to me, then I package the orders and mail them out.
There is definitely a degree of trust involved in this, and it is a much more delayed gratification. However, if you were looking for something which you would be interested in modding, this might be something to consider.
Just finished assembling the Infinity that vivalarevelucion sent me. Built with dampened white alps and cnc acrylic case. Can't wait to get some caps on it. Really liking the feel of these switches so far.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/0f9feafb4f4b8afe5363b54ddd4f45b0.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/b78313861b39049736e1dc3407584cfd.jpg)
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As far as ALPS clones go, how are the "alps.tw Type T1" ?The copper leaf ones tend to not be as good as the steel leaf ones. Best clones that have actually been used in boards that I've tried so far are Type OA2s. Quite close to white Alps, but a little lighter. Noise isn't as good though.
Just finished assembling the Infinity that vivalarevelucion sent me. Built with dampened white alps and cnc acrylic case. Can't wait to get some caps on it. Really liking the feel of these switches so far.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/0f9feafb4f4b8afe5363b54ddd4f45b0.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/b78313861b39049736e1dc3407584cfd.jpg)
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Just finished assembling the Infinity that vivalarevelucion sent me. Built with dampened white alps and cnc acrylic case. Can't wait to get some caps on it. Really liking the feel of these switches so far.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/0f9feafb4f4b8afe5363b54ddd4f45b0.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/b78313861b39049736e1dc3407584cfd.jpg)
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it looks like either tex or zyptyzeJust finished assembling the Infinity that vivalarevelucion sent me. Built with dampened white alps and cnc acrylic case. Can't wait to get some caps on it. Really liking the feel of these switches so far.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/0f9feafb4f4b8afe5363b54ddd4f45b0.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/b78313861b39049736e1dc3407584cfd.jpg)
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That's a nice case. Do you know who makes it?
Just finished assembling the Infinity that vivalarevelucion sent me. Built with dampened white alps and cnc acrylic case. Can't wait to get some caps on it. Really liking the feel of these switches so far.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/0f9feafb4f4b8afe5363b54ddd4f45b0.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/b78313861b39049736e1dc3407584cfd.jpg)
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Is that the new version of the Infinity with backlighting? :eek: I should've bought a PCB, damn.
Badwrench, those switches look good :)Thank you again. I am really looking forward to using this one once the replacement caps ship from the Alpine Winter GB.
Just finished assembling the Infinity that vivalarevelucion sent me. Built with dampened white alps and cnc acrylic case. Can't wait to get some caps on it. Really liking the feel of these switches so far.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/0f9feafb4f4b8afe5363b54ddd4f45b0.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/b78313861b39049736e1dc3407584cfd.jpg)
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Nice looking board man!
Just finished assembling the Infinity that vivalarevelucion sent me. Built with dampened white alps and cnc acrylic case. Can't wait to get some caps on it. Really liking the feel of these switches so far.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/0f9feafb4f4b8afe5363b54ddd4f45b0.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/b78313861b39049736e1dc3407584cfd.jpg)
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That's a nice case. Do you know who makes it?
My new baby:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s90QMD9.jpg)
hasu Alps64 with bluenalgene's infinity plate (thanks skaloola!) with click modded alps skcl green. feels great. Really ghetto spacebar right now, and no case, but I have an enter key and case in the mail. The keyset is from a focus 2001 and has the windows keys and application key from an omnikey 104. Really loving the 60% layout.
My other new board:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LasDSrA.jpg)
neXt non ADB board, Alps SKCM cream. Feels good man. Great WoB Doubleshot alps keycaps.
Nope, it is a V1 with the plate that is a bit too thick for alps to properly lock in. Tiny bit of filing to the lock tabs on the switches made it much better, but I still will have to be careful changing caps out.Just finished assembling the Infinity that vivalarevelucion sent me. Built with dampened white alps and cnc acrylic case. Can't wait to get some caps on it. Really liking the feel of these switches so far.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/0f9feafb4f4b8afe5363b54ddd4f45b0.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160602/b78313861b39049736e1dc3407584cfd.jpg)
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Is that the new version of the Infinity with backlighting? :eek: I should've bought a PCB, damn.
Nice man, you've made your own -clicky- SKCM Green switches. I love when people experiment in this hobby. :)Speaking of clicky SKCM Green switches, I don't know if you had noticed yet, but you can't actually click-mod the ACTUAL SKCM Green, i.e. Lime, switches.
Nice man, you've made your own -clicky- SKCM Green switches. I love when people experiment in this hobby. :)Speaking of clicky SKCM Green switches, I don't know if you had noticed yet, but you can't actually click-mod the ACTUAL SKCM Green, i.e. Lime, switches.
I agree btw, I love experimenting with this hobby, and Alps are perfect for that :D .
Nope, you can snip the top AND bottom tabs off and it will do jack. Of course you can stick in a white Alps leaf but that really isn't very interesting.Nice man, you've made your own -clicky- SKCM Green switches. I love when people experiment in this hobby. :)Speaking of clicky SKCM Green switches, I don't know if you had noticed yet, but you can't actually click-mod the ACTUAL SKCM Green, i.e. Lime, switches.
I agree btw, I love experimenting with this hobby, and Alps are perfect for that :D .
Oh really? You know, I was wondering about that since they use individual leaves unlike SKCM Brown, but after thinking about it a bit more, it did seem more unlikely thanks to the force curve/shape of the leaf. Doesn't seem like it'd create as much of a click as a click-modded tactile leaf of a standard shape.
Or did you mean to say that you CAN click mod them? I wouldn't dare try it because of the fact my switches belong to those boards, but if I had loose switches, I'd have definitely played around with the mod. :)
Yep, Alps are soooo fantastic for tinkering and modding. Love that aspect about them They're a very charming family of switches with that and all the variety they have too. :)
Tonight I'm going to order a V80 with Matias Quiet, any final suggestions before I pull the trigger?
Tonight I'm going to order a V80 with Matias Quiet, any final suggestions before I pull the trigger?
Tonight I'm going to order a V80 with Matias Quiet, any final suggestions before I pull the trigger?
Given what you have said about your "true" object of desire, that will get you very close.
Also, it will be brand new, fully warranted, and zero work straight out of the box.
Lol who is this. It better be one of you :p http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/wan/5612840709.htmlLmao I dont think hes gonna get too many hits based on how rare those machines are, but I respect his plight for brown alps!
Lol who is this. It better be one of you :p http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/wan/5612840709.html
What other boards other than the pc convertible did brown alps come in?
The guys at these vintage computer forums don't seem to take kindly to "keyboard poachers." :PHaha theyre really nice guys over there, and I honestly cant blame them. I have a small collection of vintage pcs that they have helped me tremendously in the past with.
http://www.vcfed.org/forum/showthread.php?52554-Wanted-IBM-3277-78-79-and-5251-display-terminal-keyboars
Alps is like cocaine. once you try it youre terribly addicted. Atleast with BS there was only a few boards made, that kept the wallethacking to a manageable level. I just cant stop with these alps boards. Someone needs to get me an intervention.
And the hole goes way deeper even than that xD .Alps is like cocaine. once you try it youre terribly addicted. Atleast with BS there was only a few boards made, that kept the wallethacking to a manageable level. I just cant stop with these alps boards. Someone needs to get me an intervention.
For me, it started with looking for tactility which I could not find even on MX clears. I went from SKCM Black -> SKCM White Damped, then found a SKCM Brown, but settled on a SKCM Orange for daily driver at work, then found a SKCM blue just for the novelty and am currently gathering SKCL greens for another alps build.
Have you gotten your hands on a skfl board yet? If so I would love to see it reviewed!And the hole goes way deeper even than that xD .Alps is like cocaine. once you try it youre terribly addicted. Atleast with BS there was only a few boards made, that kept the wallethacking to a manageable level. I just cant stop with these alps boards. Someone needs to get me an intervention.
For me, it started with looking for tactility which I could not find even on MX clears. I went from SKCM Black -> SKCM White Damped, then found a SKCM Brown, but settled on a SKCM Orange for daily driver at work, then found a SKCM blue just for the novelty and am currently gathering SKCL greens for another alps build.
Personally, I find SKFL/SKFS to be very underwhelming compared to SKCL/SKCM.Ive never tried them, and any review by chyros is a good review. what are they like though? Ive heard theyre super smooth
Nope, not yet!Have you gotten your hands on a skfl board yet? If so I would love to see it reviewed!And the hole goes way deeper even than that xD .Alps is like cocaine. once you try it youre terribly addicted. Atleast with BS there was only a few boards made, that kept the wallethacking to a manageable level. I just cant stop with these alps boards. Someone needs to get me an intervention.
For me, it started with looking for tactility which I could not find even on MX clears. I went from SKCM Black -> SKCM White Damped, then found a SKCM Brown, but settled on a SKCM Orange for daily driver at work, then found a SKCM blue just for the novelty and am currently gathering SKCL greens for another alps build.
does anyone know what sized LEDs fit in the SKCL Greens? I'm tempted to pick up a few for some indicator switches and jerry rig something.
Does anyone know a way to buy a V60 MTS PCB? Need to replace my current one to finish my SKCL Green led swap. :(
Does anyone know a way to buy a V60 MTS PCB? Need to replace my current one to finish my SKCL Green led swap. :(
I don't think there is a way to directly, you could try contacting them http://www.kbp.com.tw/ but no guarantees.
That's kind of what I've done. I recently purchased a V80 so I could try Matias Quiet Clicks but also so I have a nice TKL ALPS PCB/Plate I can use in the future.How did you like the quiet clicks? personally I didnt like the ones I had at all. My alps64 kit came with them and I alreadyy traded them away.
I
Did this today :D SGI Granite finally got what it deserved. A proper retr0bright!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dnt6JYJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hdWOl92.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/392sg8m.jpg)
nice work matt!
That's kind of what I've done. I recently purchased a V80 so I could try Matias Quiet Clicks but also so I have a nice TKL ALPS PCB/Plate I can use in the future.How did you like the quiet clicks? personally I didnt like the ones I had at all. My alps64 kit came with them and I alreadyy traded them away.
I
Did this today :D SGI Granite finally got what it deserved. A proper retr0bright!Absolutely beautiful.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dnt6JYJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hdWOl92.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/392sg8m.jpg)
What you don't know is that the seller lied and it's a rare rubber dome variant.
I cannot believe I was completely ****ed out of a keyboard. I had convinced a ebay seller to sell me a Magnavox Videowriter keyboard (SKCM Brown) separate from the rest of the system for $14. He changed the listing to just the board and as we were getting the shipping and final details worked out some **** bought it right from under me in that very short timespan between changing the listing and correcting the final details of it. :mad: The final price wasn't worked out so it was bought for $25.
After all the work to get him to sell it separately and for that price it gets stolen right from under me. ****ing ****. What are the chances of that happening?! Now I have messaged the seller back after he told me this saying that this wasn't fair since I had made the whole thing even possible in the first place and that it is just rather unfortunate timing. Also said that I would match his price if need be.
I would of totally undestood if the whole pc got bought during that time since he would of gotten his full price, but just what I had done? ****kkk that! Hope that buyer enjoys his stinking keyboard if he gets it.
rant over
I usually just pay in full then ask for a shipping refund. I suppose that wasn't the case here. Sorry to hear this.
He changed the listing to just the board and as we were getting the shipping and final details worked out some **** bought it right from under me in that very short timespan between changing the listing and correcting the final details of it.
He changed the listing to just the board and as we were getting the shipping and final details worked out some **** bought it right from under me in that very short timespan between changing the listing and correcting the final details of it.
I get very nervous whenever I am involved in a private side deal like this, especially when the back-and-forth is not happening in near real time. But - a deal is a deal. I would raise holy hell with ebay if the seller tried to give it to somebody else after I paid my money.
The better way to do it is to change the original listing to say "no longer available" and have the seller invoice the buyer. Ebay may have a mechanism to make that difficult, I have never done it as a seller on ebay.
If you were the seller in this situation, what would you do?
Amber switches are quite a bit stiffer than blue switches, stiffness similar to early clicky white Alps or even slightly stiffer, with a much snappier and louder click. Blue switches are elegant and understated, amber switches get up in your face.
People who like white Alps, Matias clicky, Model F, amber Omrons, or Cherry MX green would probably like amber Alps. People who like blue Alps might or might not.
Ambers are indeed "up in your face". They have a bold click that's pretty noticeable. I've never had a keyboard with Alps Blue switches. I have keyboards with other Alps (Other Apple keyboards), but those are not clicky switches. What I did do, was make a comparison video between my Danger Zone custom 75% + 1 keyboard project with Gateron Blue switches, and my Apple //c keyboard with the Alps Amber switches. The Alps Amber definitely take more force to press passed the click. I personally like it. I used some Shapeways C64 to MX stem adapters and threw some Commodore 64 keys on my Danger Zone keyboard (since the Danger Zone key caps won't show up till next month).
They're an interesting switch, but as E3E pointed out when he tried them a while back, the click is somewhat hollow-sounding and not quite as satisfying as SKCM Blues; I don't dislike them myself though.
You'll have a very fun time trying to get an Apple IIc with SKCM Ambers though.. :p
Like getting a 5140 board is any easier lol, so many ebay idiots thinking their 5140 is worth $100+. Actually a good amt of beat up IIC's come though for super cheap with broken caps, so I can tell if they have Ambers without even asking lol.
They feel kinda hollow in my switch tester, but the plate is cheap and thin so not very representative. With the switch flat on my desk w/ a cap they feel really nice.
Ill have to check out my 8088 compaq portable, Pretty sure it doesnt have alps though. I do agree that old portables are probably the best way to find these obscure alps switches. I can only hope to be as lucky as this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yndCXP0ZkOQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yndCXP0ZkOQ)
Like getting a 5140 board is any easier lol, so many ebay idiots thinking their 5140 is worth $100+. Actually a good amt of beat up IIC's come though for super cheap with broken caps, so I can tell if they have Ambers without even asking lol.
They feel kinda hollow in my switch tester, but the plate is cheap and thin so not very representative. With the switch flat on my desk w/ a cap they feel really nice.
They are quite hollow in terms of sound and leave more to be desired, but I am eager to try them one more time with my IBM Multistation spherical hi pro caps and if they prove to be enjoyable, I'll likely make permanent build with them and those caps. If not, I'll sell them off again.
The 5140, IIc, P70, and most luggables or computer systems like that are always so crazy in their price ranges. They're rarely actually hard to find, but what is difficult is finding one for a reasonable price. The Bondwell 8T PRO with its cream linears is probably the rarest of the Alps-based systems, I think. I've barely seen them.
I'm also curious of what other Bondwells might have Alps. I saw another widescreen model with caps that seemed just like the 8T PRO's.
Sooo, I need an opinion.Bluenalgene ran a GB for aluminum plates for the alps64 awhile back. and I think there were hhkb layout plates available. Im sure there are some people that havent built their boards yet and will sell you their plate. I bought mine off of a member recently, but mine is the infinity hacker layout. Put a wanted ad in classifieds, maybe youll get lucky.
It has been a little difficult to find a HHKB layout 60% ALPS plate in metal and as you can see I really like my HHKB layout.
Should I go ahead and build my TMK ALPS64 with this 1.5mm acrylic plate?
I wonder how it will feel with the acrylic plate... will I regret it?
Will be using green alps!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6w196h0.jpg)
Bluenalgene ran a GB for aluminum plates for the alps64 awhile back. and I think there were hhkb layout plates available. Im sure there are some people that havent built their boards yet and will sell you their plate. I bought mine off of a member recently, but mine is the infinity hacker layout. Put a wanted ad in classifieds, maybe youll get lucky.
Bluenalgene ran a GB for aluminum plates for the alps64 awhile back. and I think there were hhkb layout plates available. Im sure there are some people that havent built their boards yet and will sell you their plate. I bought mine off of a member recently, but mine is the infinity hacker layout. Put a wanted ad in classifieds, maybe youll get lucky.
Yeah but I am not sure if he will run another GB anytime soon.
Guess I could post a WTB for a HHKB plate.
The infinity hacker plate uses the cherry stabilizers, 6x spacebar, etc. and makes it a little harder to source caps.
I am trying to stick to a more standard bottom row and want to use the spacebar stabilizer and bottom row caps from a AT101.
Maybe I will try Taobao and contact a sheet metal company in Shenzhen since I am in Hong Kong.
But back to the acrylic plate... I wonder how it'll feel haha.
I already know what to expect from using a steel plate with the green alps.
Just solder a few in and see how they feel. If you like it, continue. If not, pull them back out and see if someone will trade your acrylic for a steel one.
no, the infinity uses alps stabs. I took most of the caps on mine from a avant prime omnikey 104. It has normal bottom row mods except for 1u windows keys and a 1u application key. Im working on cutting a custom 6u spacebar for mine. Ill post a pic when I get back home and on a computer.Bluenalgene ran a GB for aluminum plates for the alps64 awhile back. and I think there were hhkb layout plates available. Im sure there are some people that havent built their boards yet and will sell you their plate. I bought mine off of a member recently, but mine is the infinity hacker layout. Put a wanted ad in classifieds, maybe youll get lucky.
Yeah but I am not sure if he will run another GB anytime soon.
Guess I could post a WTB for a HHKB plate.
The infinity hacker plate uses the cherry stabilizers, 6x spacebar, etc. and makes it a little harder to source caps.
I am trying to stick to a more standard bottom row and want to use the spacebar stabilizer and bottom row caps from a AT101.
Maybe I will try Taobao and contact a sheet metal company in Shenzhen since I am in Hong Kong.
But back to the acrylic plate... I wonder how it'll feel haha.
I already know what to expect from using a steel plate with the green alps.
As promised, heres a pic.
Probably not, here's the same image color-corrected. According to the DT Wiki, they only came in Cream and Gray variants.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KfWE9TI.jpg)
I received my V80 today with the Matias Quiet Clicks!
Here's a moneyshot:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZGmAGjR.jpg)
I replaced some keys with an incomplete set of thin ABS doubleshots I have from a butchered FK-2001. The stock keycaps are even thinner than the ones on the Focus's though they actually feel somewhat denser. I'm fond of the colored shift and escape key myself.
The build quality of the rest of the board is excellent though, it has a good amount of weight to it and doesn't flex at all. Furthermore the keyboard's finish is very slick matte black.
I really like these Matias, the tactility is stronger than I was expecting. I don't really care for the dampening though and I'll probably pop out the bumpers on the slider. The keycaps from the Focus give it a kind of neat sound I can't describe. They are really smooth and when I opened up a switch it felt like there was a very small amount of lubricant on the slider. Has Matias always done this?
The spacebar is also lovely, not rattly and doesn't sound much different than normal keys. The other stabilized keys are kind of rattly though.
Here's a close up of the keycaps, the Focus ones need a light wash and you can see some nicks too, scars of the past!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dnsTmeT.jpg)
Overall I'm happy with this board and would gladly recommend it and it's switches to anyone.
Looks fantastic! Very jealous. ;D
I'm curious, in what color(s) did you dye your 5140 key caps?
Probably not, here's the same image color-corrected. According to the DT Wiki, they only came in Cream and Gray variants.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KfWE9TI.jpg)
I don't think so, still looks amber to me. E3E found a SKCL Brown Lock, so I think there are more out there.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eEKaBdL.jpg)
Looks fantastic! Very jealous. ;D
I'm curious, in what color(s) did you dye your 5140 key caps?
Thanks emdude. I'm very happy to finally have a case for my other Eagle, and one that can rival the Hammer to boot (that one's still my favorite though :P)
Hey, you're the one who got all those beamsprings though, right? That's an amazing find in itself!
I just dyed them black. Kind of on impulse when I was dyeing another set of Dell AT101 caps black for my Orion v2. I wanted to see how the IBM 5140s compared. The Dell caps dye with a blueish hue. The 5140 caps have a more neutral greyish/black hue.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xHDxThU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/S4p1EDJ.jpg)
The number pad you see uses dyed AT101 caps, but you really can't tell the difference unless you put them under bright white lighting. Very subtle.
sions, thanks for sharing. Those keycaps look great, they really provide a lot of personality to an otherwise brand new board. I just received my own V80 with Quiet Clicks yesterday with the Tai-Hao psuedo-Dolch caps. I'm definitely agreeing with your positive first impressions. Like everybody else I wish there were much more Alps keycap choices.
sions, thanks for sharing. Those keycaps look great, they really provide a lot of personality to an otherwise brand new board. I just received my own V80 with Quiet Clicks yesterday with the Tai-Hao psuedo-Dolch caps. I'm definitely agreeing with your positive first impressions. Like everybody else I wish there were much more Alps keycap choices.
I don't actually like the dampening too much so I might do a switch swap with some other tactile ALPS switch in the future. Possibly an AEK I with SKCM Oranges.
Sooo, I need an opinion.Linear is not for everyone, so no guarantees.... But as for as linears go, it's hard to go wrong with Alps xD .
It has been a little difficult to find a HHKB layout 60% ALPS plate in metal and as you can see I really like my HHKB layout.
Should I go ahead and build my TMK ALPS64 with this 1.5mm acrylic plate?
I wonder how it will feel with the acrylic plate... will I regret it?
Will be using green alps!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6w196h0.jpg)
damn e3e why do you have to have all the brown alps! save some for me! :pI know right, he's a hoarder! He's holding all the Lime ones too :p .
Ze ping and ze click, what a combo ;D .and youre gonna get to play with it in a few weeks, as promised.
Just finished my alps64 today, complete with click modded SKCL greens. I couldnt find a spacebar that would work for the infinity layout, so I modded an OG Focus spacebar from the fk2001 I stiole the caps from. It doesnt look good, but maybe someday I will find a correctly colored 6u spacebar, Here is a few pics. I also have a sound recording of the switches.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VNuUFh7.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C2LjQ7p.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8vkarju.jpg)
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Yup, took the click leaves and top housings from a fk2001.Just finished my alps64 today, complete with click modded SKCL greens. I couldnt find a spacebar that would work for the infinity layout, so I modded an OG Focus spacebar from the fk2001 I stiole the caps from. It doesnt look good, but maybe someday I will find a correctly colored 6u spacebar, Here is a few pics. I also have a sound recording of the switches.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VNuUFh7.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C2LjQ7p.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8vkarju.jpg)
frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>[/youtube]
Wow, thats really interesting. Where did you get the clicky leaves from? SKCM White?
Looks great, mike! If Alpine Spring (or some other Alps GB) happens, perhaps you can get a proper 6u space bar (and nice new caps)!I love the ping. maybe thats why I love model f buckling spring too. I would like to get my hands on a new keyset, but I have a real soft spot for og multi colored focus doubleshots. theyre really sweet caps. the spacebar on the other hand, I would love to replace. but afaik there werent any vintage alps boards made with a 6u spacebar.
The ping is also interesting.. How exactly do you feel about it?
Quick question: what's the lightest tactile Alps switch? Is it brown? I'm trying to think about another switch to try if I find that quiet clicks are too heavy.
That's a little disappointing -- aren't orange around 60gf for actuation?
There are a lot of different Alps spacebar sizes. I’m sure I’ve seen 4.75u, 5u, 5.25u. Not 100% sure about 6u, but I suspect there’s probably one somewhere.
I've heard Matias linears are even lighter so you might want to take a look at them, but I could be wrong. I don't know much about Matias at the moment.
The Matias are all around 60g respectively.
I miss my AEKII, think ill buy another one.
the switches in that are so bad :( at least to me.
Ive never personally tried them but I like regular cream. How do they stack up?I miss my AEKII, think ill buy another one.
the switches in that are so bad :( at least to me.
I assume your talking about SKCM Cream Damp. Dirty ones feel bad but clean nice ones feel pretty good actually. Its just that I also miss the board itself. Since I sold it I have had the opportunity to try many more Alps switches so I think my opinion has shifted.
I read somewhere Matias only did that for a few batches of the quiet linears.The Matias are all around 60g respectively.
I don't think the quiet linears are, Matias' website lists them as 35 +/- 5 gf. Like I said, they felt very comparable to Gateron Clears.
(Attachment Link)
Ive never personally tried them but I like regular cream. How do they stack up?I miss my AEKII, think ill buy another one.
the switches in that are so bad :( at least to me.
I assume your talking about SKCM Cream Damp. Dirty ones feel bad but clean nice ones feel pretty good actually. Its just that I also miss the board itself. Since I sold it I have had the opportunity to try many more Alps switches so I think my opinion has shifted.
So I managed to net myself a 5140 for a pretty great price, practically new too; SKCM Browns are really interesting, these certainly have a thockiness to them. :))
I'll definitely be harvesting these for a 60%, I really want to go with a layout that is like the one on the 5140 so I can use all of its original key caps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7FkykWc.jpg)
Also wondering, would it be safe to say that the SKCL Compacts are basically identical to SKCL Greens (aside from the weird mount)?
I read somewhere Matias only did that for a few batches of the quiet linears.
So I managed to net myself a 5140 for a pretty great price, practically new too; SKCM Browns are really interesting, these certainly have a thockiness to them. :))
So I managed to net myself a 5140 for a pretty great price, practically new too; SKCM Browns are really interesting, these certainly have a thockiness to them. :))absolutely not. SKCL Green compacts have a different spring, different switchplate and different keycap mount
I'll definitely be harvesting these for a 60%, I really want to go with a layout that is like the one on the 5140 so I can use all of its original key caps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7FkykWc.jpg)
Also wondering, would it be safe to say that the SKCL Compacts are basically identical to SKCL Greens (aside from the weird mount)?
My click modded greens are pretty smooth, they have a white top housing and click leaf though. still incredibly pingy though :))I read somewhere Matias only did that for a few batches of the quiet linears.
Hmm, so what your saying is there is a chance that if I buy a bag of QLs there's a chance they might be heavy enough for me to like them?So I managed to net myself a 5140 for a pretty great price, practically new too; SKCM Browns are really interesting, these certainly have a thockiness to them. :))
Nice find! I am currently in the process of trying to find a good deal on one as well.
Anyway, I have two questions for you guys:
1) I recently bought this ALPS Wyse Keyboard (http://www.ebay.com/itm/222146867457?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) to harvest it for keycaps and switches. It is definitely a Wyse-compatible board since it has the same connector as the board I harvested vintage blacks from; however, it is not externally branded as a Wyse board. I have yet to open it up, but I am sure I will find that the PCB is labelled as a 'Wyse' since, holy cow, the keycaps on this board are pretty thick and double-shot (just like SP's for the other Wyse boards). Do you guys know anything about who made these keycaps? I can post pictures when I get back home later (if that would help).
2) Is click-modding greens any smoother than click-modding oranges? In an old thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81794.msg2159447#msg2159447), click-modding oranges was recommended over greens but I have to wonder because the greens I opened up on this board have dried lube on their sliders. My tinkering suggests that using the top case from a Salmon switch, click plate from a White and a spring, switch plate and base from a Green yields a pretty smooth switch, albeit a pingy one with a noticeable amount of hysteresis.
My click modded greens are pretty smooth, they have a white top housing and click leaf though. still incredibly pingy though :))
absolutely not. SKCL Green compacts have a different spring, different switchplate and different keycap mount
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For whatever reason, I could not get the top housing from a white switch to fit on the bottom housing for the SKCL greens (it wouldn't snap closed on one side). I suspected it was due to the longer gray plates inside of the greens so I just grabbed a salmon top housing and it fit.
And yes, I saw your video (https://youtu.be/eqLxrssqZOo), incredibly pingy indeed, haha.
I think the problem youre having has to do with your click leaf placement. There is 2 little ridges on hte inside of the top of the housing on 1 side, make sure that is the side you put the click leaf in, and put the switch plate in the other side. That will prevent the switch from closing properly if you dont.My click modded greens are pretty smooth, they have a white top housing and click leaf though. still incredibly pingy though :))
For whatever reason, I could not get the top housing from a white switch to fit on the bottom housing for the SKCL greens (it wouldn't snap closed on one side). I suspected it was due to the longer gray plates inside of the greens so I just grabbed a salmon top housing and it fit.
And yes, I saw your video (https://youtu.be/eqLxrssqZOo), incredibly pingy indeed, haha.
So I managed to net myself a 5140 for a pretty great price, practically new too; SKCM Browns are really interesting, these certainly have a thockiness to them. :))I think that you can use a infinity plate from Bluenalgene's GB, it might just be impossible to stabilize the big ass enter. Youll have to use a 6u spacebar also. Maybe you can utilize the original plate and try to retrofit a alps64 pcb, or hand wire it with a teensy.
I'll definitely be harvesting these for a 60%, I really want to go with a layout that is like the one on the 5140 so I can use all of its original key caps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7FkykWc.jpg)
Also wondering, would it be safe to say that the SKCL Compacts are basically identical to SKCL Greens (aside from the weird mount)?
That doesn't make any sense though! The SKCM Salmon and SKCM White switches both have short switch plates. That said, the top housings do not have any bearing on the bottom and you should be able to use any SKCM top housing on almost every SKCM switch aside from Brown. SKCL switches too!
Are you sure you didn't just put the top on backwards? It's a really easy mistake to do until you get used to how the housings are oriented. That'd stop the top from going on.
I think the problem youre having has to do with your click leaf placement. There is 2 little ridges on hte inside of the top of the housing on 1 side, make sure that is the side you put the click leaf in, and put the switch plate in the other side. That will prevent the switch from closing properly if you dont.
I knew that salmons and whites should have the same top housings it just seems like salmons have more "headroom;" I am willing to admit I could be an idiot about this, though. I usually put the click leaf in the side with the ALPS logo on it, is that a poor way to orient them? That is probably my problem if the logo doesn't always correspond to the side with the two little ridges (http://i.imgur.com/mGeU0Zt.jpg).
So I managed to net myself a 5140 for a pretty great price, practically new too; SKCM Browns are really interesting, these certainly have a thockiness to them. :))I think that you can use a infinity plate from Bluenalgene's GB, it might just be impossible to stabilize the big ass enter. Youll have to use a 6u spacebar also. Maybe you can utilize the original plate and try to retrofit a alps64 pcb, or hand wire it with a teensy.
I'll definitely be harvesting these for a 60%, I really want to go with a layout that is like the one on the 5140 so I can use all of its original key caps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7FkykWc.jpg)
Also wondering, would it be safe to say that the SKCL Compacts are basically identical to SKCL Greens (aside from the weird mount)?
So I managed to net myself a 5140 for a pretty great price, practically new too; SKCM Browns are really interesting, these certainly have a thockiness to them. :))Can you take a pic of the plate? I would love to see it.
I'll definitely be harvesting these for a 60%, I really want to go with a layout that is like the one on the 5140 so I can use all of its original key caps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7FkykWc.jpg)
Also wondering, would it be safe to say that the SKCL Compacts are basically identical to SKCL Greens (aside from the weird mount)?
I think that you can use a infinity plate from Bluenalgene's GB, it might just be impossible to stabilize the big ass enter. Youll have to use a 6u spacebar also. Maybe you can utilize the original plate and try to retrofit a alps64 pcb, or hand wire it with a teensy.
The plate is so unusual that I think I'll just try to design one myself.
Are you referring to the plate I'd like to design? Sorry if I was being confusing, I was referring to that one. I meant to say that since it's such a mish-mash of Big-Ass Enter layouts that I doubt someone like JDCarpe would have a design that matches it exactly..Yeah, I would like to see it, sounds interesting. Can you provide a pic of the original 5140 plate too?
It's a shame that his designs aren't open source, I think I'll have to start with a design generated with Swill's plate creator and then go from there.
Properly fixed my SGI's PCB today. Took a few hours but I figured out the issue. Between the K and L keys the trace that goes along linking them together (along w/ asdfj) had invisibly broken. This meant that upon random ASDF and JK keys would stop working together, either they all worked or none at all. G and H is on a separate trace so they were never effected.
A wire between K and L and the trace was back up and running! This has been a reoccurring issue for month's :confused:
hate when that happens
A really good way to know if you've got the leaf on the right side is to pay attention the asymmetry of the top housing on the inside walls. Notice how one side is flat and the other has a bit of a raised grid? The grid half is for the contact/switch plate, and the flat part is for the click or tactile leaf.
SKCM Brown and SKCM Ivory have symmetrical housings and so that trick doesn't work, but it also doesn't matter either, since they are symmetrical.
Ahh, we all need to pick up CAD to make out own custom plate files for reasons like this. Swill's plate creator is really off with Alps a lot of the time.
I know that JDCarpe has his own designs and you have to license them from him in order to use them for a GB or whatnot. Would there be any legal issues from basically recreating them and then open sourcing the files?
I know that JDCarpe has his own designs and you have to license them from him in order to use them for a GB or whatnot. Would there be any legal issues from basically recreating them and then open sourcing the files?
Whats a good TaoBao agent that wont rip me off? Found something very cool....
What have you people done to me? I'm starting to like these more than my Model M. Please help me.Ive already gone past my 1390131, which is the debatably best model m. I still love it though. alps is one hell of a drug.
They're gorgeous. I hope I run into the UK version of the '0131 someday ^^ . Preferably dated to my birthday!What have you people done to me? I'm starting to like these more than my Model M. Please help me.Ive already gone past my 1390131, which is the debatably best model m. I still love it though. alps is one hell of a drug.
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Completely unexpected, I stumbled onto a Wang 724 today, my first. The keyboard is a wreck and I will not even attempt to restore it, but I am very excited about the caps in particular. Too bad that the top row function keys are double-printed - I would love to have a plain clean set. A few of the caps are cracked, broken, or have chunks missing out of them (it was (fortunately) upside-down in a beat-up gaylord outside) but luckily only "weird" ones around the perimeter were broken and not the important "core" ones.
These cream switches are not bad. I need to figure out where they fit in the spectrum and what would be the best use for them. I have a goodly number of various Alps switches now and I plan to mess around with swapping parts as soon as I feel comfortable that the appropriate lube has been discovered.
Completely unexpected, I stumbled onto a Wang 724 today, my first. The keyboard is a wreck and I will not even attempt to restore it, but I am very excited about the caps in particular. Too bad that the top row function keys are double-printed - I would love to have a plain clean set. A few of the caps are cracked, broken, or have chunks missing out of them (it was (fortunately) upside-down in a beat-up gaylord outside) but luckily only "weird" ones around the perimeter were broken and not the important "core" ones.Can we see some pics?
These cream switches are not bad. I need to figure out where they fit in the spectrum and what would be the best use for them. I have a goodly number of various Alps switches now and I plan to mess around with swapping parts as soon as I feel comfortable that the appropriate lube has been discovered.
Welp, i've discovered a goldmine, and I mean a goldmine. Thanks Taobao! :thumb:You have to let us in on this
Completely unexpected, I stumbled onto a Wang 724 today, my first. The keyboard is a wreck and I will not even attempt to restore it, but I am very excited about the caps in particular. Too bad that the top row function keys are double-printed - I would love to have a plain clean set. A few of the caps are cracked, broken, or have chunks missing out of them (it was (fortunately) upside-down in a beat-up gaylord outside) but luckily only "weird" ones around the perimeter were broken and not the important "core" ones.
These cream switches are not bad. I need to figure out where they fit in the spectrum and what would be the best use for them. I have a goodly number of various Alps switches now and I plan to mess around with swapping parts as soon as I feel comfortable that the appropriate lube has been discovered.
Completely unexpected, I stumbled onto a Wang 724 today, my first. The keyboard is a wreck and I will not even attempt to restore it, but I am very excited about the caps in particular. Too bad that the top row function keys are double-printed - I would love to have a plain clean set. A few of the caps are cracked, broken, or have chunks missing out of them (it was (fortunately) upside-down in a beat-up gaylord outside) but luckily only "weird" ones around the perimeter were broken and not the important "core" ones.Nice! I always like it when I bump into a large Wang. How was your first experience?
These cream switches are not bad. I need to figure out where they fit in the spectrum and what would be the best use for them. I have a goodly number of various Alps switches now and I plan to mess around with swapping parts as soon as I feel comfortable that the appropriate lube has been discovered.
Welp, i've discovered a goldmine, and I mean a goldmine. Thanks Taobao! :thumb:You have to let us in on this
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Well ****. remember me when they get in :))Welp, i've discovered a goldmine, and I mean a goldmine. Thanks Taobao! :thumb:You have to let us in on this
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Hah. I will after my order gets to the proxy, don't want any interference. I'll give you a teaser though. $7 SKCM Blue boards
I am now the proud owner of this!!! Minus the case. Also a pcb/plate full of SKCM Blue! Its actually from that strange Model M clone.was this the taobao jackpot?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VPZzj1m.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/izn5Gxr.jpg)
I am now the proud owner of this!!! Minus the case. Also a pcb/plate full of SKCM Blue! Its actually from that strange Model M clone.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VPZzj1m.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/izn5Gxr.jpg)
Yep! :D This one seller has a bunch of Cherry and Alps stuff. Various Alps clones, Cherry MX Yellow (legit), and what I bought. The SKCL Green listing had 2 IBM Multistations and a X6800 PCB. By the time I got to it one of the Multistations had already been sold, luckily the later variant with the lower profile caps. He has another listing with SKCM Blue, about 4 boards. All between $7-20. I bought the cheap one since I don't really care for how many caps aren't missing etc.
Plan is to build some sort of SKCM Blue board w/ those amazing high profile caps, at least thats what i'm thinking.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6EFsCaa.jpg)
Yep! :D This one seller has a bunch of Cherry and Alps stuff. Various Alps clones, Cherry MX Yellow (legit), and what I bought. The SKCL Green listing had 2 IBM Multistations and a X6800 PCB. By the time I got to it one of the Multistations had already been sold, luckily the later variant with the lower profile caps. He has another listing with SKCM Blue, about 4 boards. All between $7-20. I bought the cheap one since I don't really care for how many caps aren't missing etc.
Plan is to build some sort of SKCM Blue board w/ those amazing high profile caps, at least thats what i'm thinking.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6EFsCaa.jpg)
Cherry MX Yellow? Wow, I hadn't heard of those before. Are those linear, tactile or clicky switches?
And yeah, those sphericals look fun! I have one of the older IBM boards with the Tall Green switches and it's fun to play around with every once in a while.
Just bought 3 blue alps boards, a board full of dolch alps keycaps and an assortment of alps switches off of taobao. Life can be good. lets hope taobaofocus comes through for me.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vH7x8iJ.png)
I left you guys the last blue alps board, Dont worry, all these switches have homes waiting for them, I wont be reselling them, and if I do it sure wont be for ebay prices on blue alps :P Im not that much of an ass :))
haha 20$ us still isnt expensive fore blue alps, I just dont need a full set of caps :)) I think im going to throw some blue alps and the dolch caps on my v60 I just bought.Just bought 3 blue alps boards, a board full of dolch alps keycaps and an assortment of alps switches off of taobao. Life can be good. lets hope taobaofocus comes through for me.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vH7x8iJ.png)
I left you guys the last blue alps board, Dont worry, all these switches have homes waiting for them, I wont be reselling them, and if I do it sure wont be for ebay prices on blue alps :P Im not that much of an ass :))
Ok, I see you left the most expensive one. Was about to PM you and Wingpad the link since you guys asked. Get ready to pay a decent amt. for shipping, the weight can really add up.
Lol I knew as soon as the link got out they would be snatched up real quick :P
Yep! :D This one seller has a bunch of Cherry and Alps stuff. Various Alps clones, Cherry MX Yellow (legit), and what I bought. The SKCL Green listing had 2 IBM Multistations and a X6800 PCB. By the time I got to it one of the Multistations had already been sold, luckily the later variant with the lower profile caps. He has another listing with SKCM Blue, about 4 boards. All between $7-20. I bought the cheap one since I don't really care for how many caps aren't missing etc.
Plan is to build some sort of SKCM Blue board w/ those amazing high profile caps, at least thats what i'm thinking.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6EFsCaa.jpg)
Well I guess thats not good news for me, because my agent hasnt placed the order yet. I guess im only getting 2 boards max. do you know which ones are left? I cant really
be bothered to look since Im already in bed on my phone.
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I've got some IBM sphericals too, actually. I didn't really like them on blue alps, green Alps, or any light switches. I think they'd be best suited on a heavier switch (just my opinion). They felt good on SKCM Browns and I have a feeling they'll be amazing on SKCM Ambers. I'd reckon they'd feel good on SKCL Brown too, but I haven't tried them out on those.
There not necessarily left but still showing, I wouldnt really be worrying that much. The seller must be really busy with all the orders at once, with mine being a hour or two before the flood. They are the two 95 yen ones.
Where did you get those from? Interesting. I think they will still be pretty good though.
Was about to PM you and Wingpad the link since you guys asked. Get ready to pay a decent amt. for shipping, the weight can really add up.
Well I guess thats not good news for me, because my agent hasnt placed the order yet. I guess im only getting 2 boards max. do you know which ones are left? I cant really
be bothered to look since Im already in bed on my phone.
I saw the blue Alps thing he had, but it was so dirty I mistook them for brown Alps at first xD . Hopefully whoever gets it will be able to restore it to a usable condition - dirty Alps can be worse than horrible.Its going to be a hell of alot of work, but totally worth it.
which one was it? I bought the 3 cheapest ones left. The only one I didnt buy was the one with all the keycaps.
I saw the blue Alps thing he had, but it was so dirty I mistook them for brown Alps at first xD . Hopefully whoever gets it will be able to restore it to a usable condition - dirty Alps can be worse than horrible.Its going to be a hell of alot of work, but totally worth it.
awesome! Glad you got one. I guess you can disreagard my pm them :))which one was it? I bought the 3 cheapest ones left. The only one I didnt buy was the one with all the keycaps.
I bought the one with all of the keycaps. phew
(Attachment Link)
Awesome! Glad you got one. I guess you can disregard my pm them :))
The switches in the picture are almost certainly genuine. The caps look like they're Alps-made, too. I think I saw them but I didn't buy them probably because of the pricing or shipping or something.Awesome! Glad you got one. I guess you can disregard my pm them :))
I meant to send you a thank-you for that, it was a very kind offer!
Aside from that board, I also bought a set of their double-shot keycaps and I got these from another seller:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jsN5k97.jpg)
Now I have no idea if they're the actual SKCL Grays or the keycaps, I guess I'll find out when they arrive. I'm really hoping to get the switches, though. I'd love to use them as a "proper" space bar on my next custom boards.
The switches in the picture are almost certainly genuine. The caps look like they're Alps-made, too. I think I saw them but I didn't buy them probably because of the pricing or shipping or something.
I saw the same skcl greys, I was about to order them too, but I thought i was already wallethacking myself too much. what kind of doubleshots did you find?
As for the double-shots they looked like pretty bog standard Focus/Northgate-style ones, nothing particularly exciting but they were like $4 so I figured I might as well throw them into my order while I am at it. It never hurts to have an extra set.Are they big ass enter or ansi? if theyre ansi I might have to pick up a set.
Are they big ass enter or ansi? if theyre ansi I might have to pick up a set.
My omnikey 104 is going to be blue alpsified and refurbished, it came with FILTHY white alps. Personally I think focus/northgate doubleshots are some of the bestlooking and feeling alps caps ever made. (other than sphericals of course lmao)
I have a hacked up and hand wired with a teensy tkl white alps board that im working on a custom hardwood case for. I used an aekii clone board called the power user 105 as a base. I might go about getting rid of this board somewhere down the line after I finish it, I have most of the tmk programming done but I cant bring myself to finish it. Ill post some pics when I get home. let me know if youre interested. swapping switches would be a ***** though since theyre glued in and hand wired. I had a thread about it in making stuff together if you can find it.My omnikey 104 is going to be blue alpsified and refurbished, it came with FILTHY white alps. Personally I think focus/northgate doubleshots are some of the bestlooking and feeling alps caps ever made. (other than sphericals of course lmao)
Lmao about the filthy white alps bit and I guess that means I should look forward to playing around with these new caps :thumb:
Hmmm, now that I have all of these switches I want to find something to put them in; maybe I'll get a Filco Zero or KBParadise V80 to house them. I was planning on building a planck and AEKII-style keyboard (I have the PCB for the latter but not the plate and vice versa for the former) but now I kind of want a TKL. (and so the wallet hacking continues!)
Awesome! Glad you got one. I guess you can disregard my pm them :))
I meant to send you a thank-you for that, it was a very kind offer!
Aside from that board, I also bought a set of their double-shot keycaps and I got these from another seller:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jsN5k97.jpg)
Now I have no idea if they're the actual SKCL Grays or the keycaps, I guess I'll find out when they arrive. I'm really hoping to get the switches, though. I'd love to use them as a "proper" space bar on my next custom boards.
I saw the blue Alps thing he had, but it was so dirty I mistook them for brown Alps at first xD . Hopefully whoever gets it will be able to restore it to a usable condition - dirty Alps can be worse than horrible.
I have a hacked up and hand wired with a teensy tkl white alps board that im working on a custom hardwood case for. I used an aekii clone board called the power user 105 as a base. I might go about getting rid of this board somewhere down the line after I finish it, I have most of the tmk programming done but I cant bring myself to finish it. Ill post some pics when I get home. let me know if youre interested. swapping switches would be a ***** though since theyre glued in and hand wired. I had a thread about it in making stuff together if you can find it.
Oh, I bought these a while back but he was out of the SKCL Gray's and just sent those blank caps. Ended up not keeping them since the shipping was really high for just caps. Did he come back in stock? You can know from the title of the listing, give me the link and I will know.
The one I bought was definitely dirtiest out of the bunch, but not super terrible. A good cleaning outside and inside will bring them back.
I'm also trying to help phoible get his 60% Alps plate GB going and since JDCarpe seems to have been away from GH for quite some time now, I think we're going to go ahead with redesigning his plates.
Does anyone have measurements for the space bar stabilizer insert holes or know a topic on GH where this is documented? I don't have the proper tools with which to make proper measurements.
Since you mention the spacebar pins, I could help you out with the spacing. I know that the pins for the Dell keycaps are 6.25 mm diameter holes spaced 69.25 mm apart, equidistant from the spacebar switch rectangle.
I added a Matias Mini Tactile Pro to my Alps collection today. I went home and promptly broke a few switches when swapping in Apple AEKII PBT keycaps. =(. Anyone know a good source for 6 instock Matias Clicks.
I have 6 quiet click switches I could send/sell you that are leftover from the Dell I built.
I imagine those blue alps will need some work indeed. I hope you will not have to resort to washing the sliders, since that will probably end up removing the lubricant on them. I have read that dirty Alps can often be shot beyond repair, so that was part of the reason why I decided not to get those boards; hopefully yours turn out all right with some cleaning.
one of the ones I got were ansi, but the other 2 were big ass enter and 1u backspace. wingpad's board from the same listing is also 1u backspace and big ass enter. There was a focus 2001 on there with blue alps, but for some reason the switches looked fake to me.I imagine those blue alps will need some work indeed. I hope you will not have to resort to washing the sliders, since that will probably end up removing the lubricant on them. I have read that dirty Alps can often be shot beyond repair, so that was part of the reason why I decided not to get those boards; hopefully yours turn out all right with some cleaning.
Nah, that won't be needed. I'll clean the plate and switches then blow out dust inside them. You can look for yourself, the picture of mine is still up https://world.taobao.com/item/529535754025.htm
By F12 its pretty dirty but if you look elsewhere its surprisingly alright actually. I count about 95 good switches that don't have their insides missing. Another advantage of that one is that its a perfect ANSI Alps plate. Good for later use.
one of the ones I got were ansi, but the other 2 were big ass enter and 1u backspace. wingpad's board from the same listing is also 1u backspace and big ass enter. There was a focus 2001 on there with blue alps, but for some reason the switches looked fake to me.
one of the ones I got were ansi, but the other 2 were big ass enter and 1u backspace. wingpad's board from the same listing is also 1u backspace and big ass enter. There was a focus 2001 on there with blue alps, but for some reason the switches looked fake to me.I imagine those blue alps will need some work indeed. I hope you will not have to resort to washing the sliders, since that will probably end up removing the lubricant on them. I have read that dirty Alps can often be shot beyond repair, so that was part of the reason why I decided not to get those boards; hopefully yours turn out all right with some cleaning.
Nah, that won't be needed. I'll clean the plate and switches then blow out dust inside them. You can look for yourself, the picture of mine is still up https://world.taobao.com/item/529535754025.htm
By F12 its pretty dirty but if you look elsewhere its surprisingly alright actually. I count about 95 good switches that don't have their insides missing. Another advantage of that one is that its a perfect ANSI Alps plate. Good for later use.
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I bought one of the green. I just want the dual legend alphas anyway.
This is what the agent sent me.
I bought one of the green. I just want the dual legend alphas anyway.
This is what the agent sent me.
OH! You were the one who bought the low profile Multistation board.
I imagine those blue alps will need some work indeed. I hope you will not have to resort to washing the sliders, since that will probably end up removing the lubricant on them. I have read that dirty Alps can often be shot beyond repair, so that was part of the reason why I decided not to get those boards; hopefully yours turn out all right with some cleaning.
Nah, that won't be needed. I'll clean the plate and switches then blow out dust inside them. You can look for yourself, the picture of mine is still up https://world.taobao.com/item/529535754025.htm
By F12 its pretty dirty but if you look elsewhere its surprisingly alright actually. I count about 95 good switches that don't have their insides missing. Another advantage of that one is that its a perfect ANSI Alps plate. Good for later use.
I imagine those blue alps will need some work indeed. I hope you will not have to resort to washing the sliders, since that will probably end up removing the lubricant on them. I have read that dirty Alps can often be shot beyond repair, so that was part of the reason why I decided not to get those boards; hopefully yours turn out all right with some cleaning.
Nah, that won't be needed. I'll clean the plate and switches then blow out dust inside them. You can look for yourself, the picture of mine is still up https://world.taobao.com/item/529535754025.htm
By F12 its pretty dirty but if you look elsewhere its surprisingly alright actually. I count about 95 good switches that don't have their insides missing. Another advantage of that one is that its a perfect ANSI Alps plate. Good for later use.
THe unit illustrated is sort of interesting. The font on the keycaps, straight ANSI layout-- it looks a lot like the mysterious Blue Alps Model M clones as seen on Deskthority.
Really wish I trusted taobao enough to join yall on this Alps adventure. Everyone got a great/interesting haul
Really wish I trusted taobao enough to join yall on this Alps adventure. Everyone got a great/interesting haulI dont trust it at all, but at the most ill be out 85$ right now. Im hoping it will come through for me.
one of the ones I got were ansi, but the other 2 were big ass enter and 1u backspace. wingpad's board from the same listing is also 1u backspace and big ass enter. There was a focus 2001 on there with blue alps, but for some reason the switches looked fake to me.
Yeah those switches looked like these switches (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Simplified_Alps_Type_III) to me, I can't remember if it had a windows key or not, though. Either way, they were just too blue to be real alps. The listing is gone otherwise I would have another look at it and try to figure out what they were.
I hope I don't need to clean my switches, either, given that my board has all of the keycaps and looked fairly clean I think I should be OK.
EDIT: I found a picture of the item in question, it looks like it could have had windows keys at one time since there are cutouts in the plate but they seem to narrow to have had actual keys there. IDKShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/VC7T7bj.jpg)
Yeah, I was very suspicious of the other blue alps boards in the listing, the $7 one was the only board I was certain had SKCM Blues because of the grey switches in the exposed switches. With the horrible pictures, it was pretty much impossible for me to tell whether they were the real deal or the Simplified Alps Type III clone switches, which appear almost identical apart from the slightly different top shells and the slider color, which is more vivid blue.
I am not sure how common these clone switches are; my impression is that they appeared only for a very brief time in FK-2001s. Still, that possibility, however minute, their conditions, and my general distrust of Taobao made me just pass on the whole thing entirely. I should have more SKCM Browns on my way to me anyway, so I don't mind. :p
They probably all have a pretty good chance of being genuine, the one board Wingpad was referring to appears to not have switches with the four mounting tabs typical of KPT switches and most other clones. I am just a scaredy-cat, I've heard many horror stories about dirty alps.. :-[
one of the ones I got were ansi, but the other 2 were big ass enter and 1u backspace. wingpad's board from the same listing is also 1u backspace and big ass enter. There was a focus 2001 on there with blue alps, but for some reason the switches looked fake to me.
Yeah those switches looked like these switches (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Simplified_Alps_Type_III) to me, I can't remember if it had a windows key or not, though. Either way, they were just too blue to be real alps. The listing is gone otherwise I would have another look at it and try to figure out what they were.
I hope I don't need to clean my switches, either, given that my board has all of the keycaps and looked fairly clean I think I should be OK.
EDIT: I found a picture of the item in question, it looks like it could have had windows keys at one time since there are cutouts in the plate but they seem to narrow to have had actual keys there. IDKShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/VC7T7bj.jpg)
THe unit illustrated is sort of interesting. The font on the keycaps, straight ANSI layout-- it looks a lot like the mysterious Blue Alps Model M clones as seen on Deskthority.
Really wish I trusted taobao enough to join yall on this Alps adventure. Everyone got a great/interesting haul
Personally I think its pretty safe, we have multiple members who have gotten stuff from there without any issues :) Its all about choosing the right proxy imo. Bhiner is ok but rips you off and Taobaoring is pretty fair and has a good rep around here.
Lol yea everyone got somthing cool. SKCM Blue, SKCL Green, cool caps and more! Really glad I spent the time Taobao-fuing to find the goldmine of a Taobao seller. Navigating the site is quite hard.
They probably all have a pretty good chance of being genuine, the one board Wingpad was referring to appears to not have switches with the four mounting tabs typical of KPT switches and most other clones. I am just a scaredy-cat, I've heard many horror stories about dirty alps.. :-[
Yea, the slider color made me think they were KPT at first, then remembered about those weird type 3 clones with real shells. Tricky switch to identify for sure. I'm confident about my switches coming out well. IMO its only dust, it can be removed. The internals themselves arent broken or anything. Switches that have a ton of grime also are probably well used, so I think that contributes more to the "shot" switches I keep hearing about.
...
Hopefully! Yours looks very clean. I don't mind cleaning Alps switches anymore, i've done it enough times lol. About 230 in switches total :confused:
Holy **** guys, they dude has a new batch of SKCM Blue boards on the listing! :eek:
Haha, maybe I will pick up a few for myself, wallet forgive me. :pmy wallet is already too hacked, plus I have 3 on the way, hopefully.
I know that it is mostly off-topic, but did you see the AT101 chop job that grimey did a few years ago?
It is hard for me to find pre-r00tw0rm stuff, my "-fu" is not the greatest, but it may be here somewhere.
Well, I'd assume theyr're the same as the stock Tactile Pro 4 ones but blank.I was looking for something to replace my tai-hao dolch on my alps64, colors are horrible with the rest of my desk.
I have a TP4. The stock caps are okay, OEM profile. Stabilizers are ALPS-mount except the spacebar which is Costar-style IIRC.` It's nice that they seem to rpovide an abundance of caps to handle different layout choices.
What board do you want to fit? The Tai Hao sets are nice for some boards, but limited in what they fit well-- mostly the new KBParadise boards.
Retrobrighting and repairing my FK-3001. What a pain. Had to completely take apart the calculator mechanism and desolder it. At least now when i'm done the screen will be like new.Focus boards are lovely, it will be worth it I'm sure.
Retrobrighting and repairing my FK-3001. What a pain. Had to completely take apart the calculator mechanism and desolder it. At least now when i'm done the screen will be like new.Focus boards are lovely, it will be worth it I'm sure.
The FK-2001 I had was a huge PTO to disassemble because the tabs would break easily if you weren't careful opening it.
I was tinkering with KLE this afternoon after I looked at the new Redscarf GB on Massdrop and thought to myself "I want that, but with Alps switches!" So began a quest to create something similar and here is what I came up with:You have no idea how excited I am about this. I would be soooo in on this gb
(Attachment Link)
Any thoughts, guys? Do any of you know if anyone has done something like this before? This could potentially be endgame material for me and should be feasible by harvesting an Apple Standard Keyboard and an Apple Extended Keyboard. The only things I would have to worry about are the stupid rotated stems of the Apple F-keys but I should be able to account for that with some clever plate engineering. In addition, I have an old Apple Design Keyboard with Alps-compatible stems that has correctly rotated F-keys that I could use if worse comes to worst. Regardless, in my opinion, this was an interesting layout that warrants further thought.
I was tinkering with KLE this afternoon after I looked at the new Redscarf GB on Massdrop and thought to myself "I want that, but with Alps switches!" So began a quest to create something similar and here is what I came up with:
(Attachment Link)
Any thoughts, guys? Do any of you know if anyone has done something like this before? This could potentially be endgame material for me and should be feasible by harvesting caps from an Apple Standard Keyboard and an Apple Extended Keyboard. The only things I would have to worry about are the stupid rotated stems of the Apple F-keys but I should be able to account for that with some clever plate engineering. In addition, I have an old Apple Design Keyboard with Alps-compatible stems that has correctly rotated F-keys that I could use if worse comes to worst. Regardless, in my opinion, this is an interesting layout that warrants further thought.
This looks neat, but I personally would not like the mismatching profiles of the function row and the other non-alphanumeric keys. It does not help that Apple also made their own profile with extra-tall function key stems so I imagine those would stick out like a sore thumb.
Maybe if there were DSA-profile Alps key caps.
When (and if) you do the GB, Could you offer options on the plate? I love the split backspace and split right shift layout on my alps64. If you havent tried backspace on the 2nd row (hhkb style), give it a shot. I like it alot more than backspace on the first row.
That one has blue Alps clones if you look closer.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i4yEvcs.png)
well ****. looks like im only getting 1 blue alps board. Hopeffully noone snags the other one I ordered out from under me.
Wait, are these the same boards you were trying to get last week? Shame if they are. :confused:yup.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i4yEvcs.png)
well ****. looks like im only getting 1 blue alps board. Hopeffully noone snags the other one I ordered out from under me.
@need, how do you know they are clones? The pictures were pretty horrible to begin with but I could not tell if they were genuine SKCM Blues or Simplified Type IIIs when I was viewing the listing.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i4yEvcs.png)
well ****. looks like im only getting 1 blue alps board. Hopeffully noone snags the other one I ordered out from under me.
I am really sorry to hear that man :(@need, how do you know they are clones? The pictures were pretty horrible to begin with but I could not tell if they were genuine SKCM Blues or Simplified Type IIIs when I was viewing the listing.
Here is a higher res image of one of them that I saved since it matched the board I bought, these look genuine to me:
[attach=1]
Bottom rows are sometimes creative on older keyboards.I dont know why they would go out if their way to put real alps switches on the bottom row if the rest is all clones, that doesnt really make sense from a buisness standpoint. Stop making me doubt my purchase :))
Well ****, that sucks. Where did you get that message? What proxy did you use? I hope I don't get the same. I did order before anyone else so I think i'm ok.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i4yEvcs.png)
well ****. looks like im only getting 1 blue alps board. Hopeffully noone snags the other one I ordered out from under me.
I believe I saw somewhere said that IBM blue Alps are counterfeit boards made in Hong Kong, and have clones for that reason.
I used taobaofocus, im not worried about getting my money back for what I did t get to order, Ive heard good things about them.Well ****, that sucks. Where did you get that message? What proxy did you use? I hope I don't get the same. I did order before anyone else so I think i'm ok.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i4yEvcs.png)
well ****. looks like im only getting 1 blue alps board. Hopeffully noone snags the other one I ordered out from under me.I believe I saw somewhere said that IBM blue Alps are counterfeit boards made in Hong Kong, and have clones for that reason.
Nah man, nah. Those Model M clones are genuine, the one on deskthority is legit and from the pic of the one I ordered on the listing you can see multiple switchplates.
Well, here it is. I present a restored FK-3001. Nice and white! :D I couldn't totally fix the screen but whatever. Still displays something legible.That looks really good. I couldnt be bothered to try retrobriting my omnikey, so I painted it. I found a real "90s Beige" color, and I think it turned out good. Paint is still drying, Will update thread with pics tomorrow. Im gonna be a few switches short of blue alpsifying it, so if anyone out of the kindness of their heart wants to offload ~5 skcm blues, they know where to ship em to :)) (this is all contingent on taobao coming through for me of course)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3YcnQq2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qreJiLf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Hs02lrG.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KQfC2RV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1NB9tcB.jpg)
Well, here it is. I present a restored FK-3001. Nice and white! :D I couldn't totally fix the screen but whatever. Still displays something legible.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3YcnQq2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qreJiLf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Hs02lrG.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KQfC2RV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1NB9tcB.jpg)
Well, here it is. I present a restored FK-3001. Nice and white! :D I couldn't totally fix the screen but whatever. Still displays something legible.That looks really good. I couldnt be bothered to try retrobriting my omnikey, so I painted it. I found a real "90s Beige" color, and I think it turned out good. Paint is still drying, Will update thread with pics tomorrow. Im gonna be a few switches short of blue alpsifying it, so if anyone out of the kindness of their heart wants to offload ~5 skcm blues, they know where to ship em to :)) (this is all contingent on taobao coming through for me of course)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3YcnQq2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qreJiLf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Hs02lrG.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KQfC2RV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1NB9tcB.jpg)
That focus is absolutely stunning. 10/10
Noice! That 3001 is looking really good :) . I never noticed how similar it is to the 2001 if you don't look at the right side of the keyboard.It's hard to make an old Focus look bad.
This is very true... I'll probably never forgive myself for missing out on that black FK-2001 a while ago xD .Noice! That 3001 is looking really good :) . I never noticed how similar it is to the 2001 if you don't look at the right side of the keyboard.It's hard to make an old Focus look bad.
Well, here it is. I present a restored FK-3001. Nice and white! :D I couldn't totally fix the screen but whatever. Still displays something legible.
Nice wang! what is that numpad?Well, here it is. I present a restored FK-3001. Nice and white! :D I couldn't totally fix the screen but whatever. Still displays something legible.
Looking spiffy!
Here's a picture of mine and a few others I had laid out for someone to try out. (Ironically out of Focus)
(http://i701.photobucket.com/albums/ww18/y3ma/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-04/CCB36542-6AD2-4F6F-A1D6-A5DE34505540_zpso58q6wrz.jpg) (http://s701.photobucket.com/user/y3ma/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-04/CCB36542-6AD2-4F6F-A1D6-A5DE34505540_zpso58q6wrz.jpg.html)
Nice wang! what is that numpad?
It looks soooo dirtyyyyy xD . Hopefully they clean up well! Don't forget to clean the inside of the top housing and the slider well too, that's where most of the friction is!
Is the one with the blue Alps from an Alps M by any chance? The super tall F keys really remind me of that.
I bought several from that guy too. My favorite is the SHARP X68000 that I got for like $40, I can use it to restore my (near) mint beige X68000 and maybe swap switches into my black X68000. Here's what I got from him:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0ap4IIm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hdmQqJ1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KsoiLE7.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CSw4PCc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uiaiCUy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9nD9RaC.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Cv8s5A6.jpg)
How much was shipping for you? Mine is $70, and both boards, and they apparently weigh 7.2 pounds. Yours must be more since you have 3?
How much was shipping for you? Mine is $70, and both boards, and they apparently weigh 7.2 pounds. Yours must be more since you have 3?
I paid $40 to ship two boards and a set of caps. No clue how much it all weighs, haha.
Hmm. That Multistation must be heavy or something then.
As promised some pics of my painted omnikey. looks pretty good to me! The only before pics I have are the pics from the ebay listing I bought it from.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WOwdTJ9.jpg)
Very yellowed, pretty nasty too.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PF0UtD9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oufM4hE.jpg)
Looks good to me!
Hmm. That Multistation must be heavy or something then.
That's actually a very low shipping rate for two keyboards from TaoBao. Sounds about right to me. You can't expect to pay anything less than $20 on shipping from TaoBao. My Monterey K103 101 was $63 + $57 to ship.
Which is why I really hate ordering from TaoBao.
You could choose the cheaper options of shipping though, but it will take considerably longer.
My stuff has shipped :)
I am off to go through some thrift stores in my city to find something of value. Please pray for me to keep the rubber domes far and few!Good luck buddy, I have found an AEKII clone, A KB-5161 with monterey blues, some ****ty foam and foil board, and my sharp SKCL green typewriter, whose switches are in my alps64.
I think I've been to every flea market and Goodwill in the state of Kentucky and the only thing I've found are a few HP and a few Dell rubber domes.Now that is some ****ty luck. I guess florida has better thrift stores.
I think I've been to every flea market and Goodwill in the state of Kentucky and the only thing I've found are a few HP and a few Dell rubber domes.
Those are btc dome with sliders, the oversized esc is a telltale sign of a btc board. Theyre said to be some of the best dome with slider boards made.Strange. They don't look at all like BTC Dome With Sliders switches though and are ALPS mount.
Not sure what you mean by oversized escape but it's possible that the one you are thinking of was a BTC branded Silitek.The escape key is 1.25u on that board, that definitely is oversized, most btc boards have 1.25u esc keys
Not sure what you mean by oversized escape but it's possible that the one you are thinking of was a BTC branded Silitek.The escape key is 1.25u on that board, that definitely is oversized, most btc boards have 1.25u esc keys
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's a Fujitsu dome with slider board, but not the more typical Fujitsu dome with slider switch observed in for example the Type 5c.Didnt wang use large esc keys on some of their terminal boards?
Companies other than BTC did use 1.25 u escape keys, but not nearly as prevalently. As Blaise pointed out, Focus started doing this during their second generation of keyboards and kept on doing it until the end as far as I'm aware. They're easy to distinguish however as BTC used lasered keycaps and very recognisable fonts, whereas Focus used doubleshots with what I think is standard Helvetica (or some other standard font).
Didnt wang use large esc keys on some of their terminal boards?If you mean the 3771; no, but the confusion is understandable; there is a 1.25 u Help key where the Esc key should normally be xD .
Got photos from my proxy, what do you guys think? They look real to me. apparently the board I got was focus layout, score!I can't see those pics, need to log in. Can you host them somewhere else perhaps?
http://taobaofocus.com/orders/photos.en.php?id=89087 (http://taobaofocus.com/orders/photos.en.php?id=89087)
I asked for a better, clearer photo of the switch also, The markings on the top housing seem to be a good sign.
In my experience with yellow alps, which is very limited, I have never seen yellow sliders this "vibrant". The plate on that board is so incredibly rusted I think the switches would be trashed anyway.Yellow Alps are always very desaturated AFAIK. Some linear Alps clones do have very intense yellow sliders though, including ones I found on a Focus board as lock light switches.
http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=40786928421 (http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=40786928421)
Here, I put together an imgur album of all the pictures my proxy sent me.Didnt wang use large esc keys on some of their terminal boards?If you mean the 3771; no, but the confusion is understandable; there is a 1.25 u Help key where the Esc key should normally be xD .Got photos from my proxy, what do you guys think? They look real to me. apparently the board I got was focus layout, score!I can't see those pics, need to log in. Can you host them somewhere else perhaps?
http://taobaofocus.com/orders/photos.en.php?id=89087 (http://taobaofocus.com/orders/photos.en.php?id=89087)
I asked for a better, clearer photo of the switch also, The markings on the top housing seem to be a good sign.In my experience with yellow alps, which is very limited, I have never seen yellow sliders this "vibrant". The plate on that board is so incredibly rusted I think the switches would be trashed anyway.Yellow Alps are always very desaturated AFAIK. Some linear Alps clones do have very intense yellow sliders though, including ones I found on a Focus board as lock light switches.
http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=40786928421 (http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=40786928421)
On my converter I think it sent some kind of modifier + F key combo. Most of the weird keys on the board did that.Here, I put together an imgur album of all the pictures my proxy sent me.Didnt wang use large esc keys on some of their terminal boards?If you mean the 3771; no, but the confusion is understandable; there is a 1.25 u Help key where the Esc key should normally be xD .Got photos from my proxy, what do you guys think? They look real to me. apparently the board I got was focus layout, score!I can't see those pics, need to log in. Can you host them somewhere else perhaps?
http://taobaofocus.com/orders/photos.en.php?id=89087 (http://taobaofocus.com/orders/photos.en.php?id=89087)
I asked for a better, clearer photo of the switch also, The markings on the top housing seem to be a good sign.In my experience with yellow alps, which is very limited, I have never seen yellow sliders this "vibrant". The plate on that board is so incredibly rusted I think the switches would be trashed anyway.Yellow Alps are always very desaturated AFAIK. Some linear Alps clones do have very intense yellow sliders though, including ones I found on a Focus board as lock light switches.
http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=40786928421 (http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=40786928421)
http://imgur.com/a/aFZFu (http://imgur.com/a/aFZFu)
As for the wang help key, what does it do when plugged into a normal pc? does it send scan codes?
Yup, that ceramic EEPROM seems really strange. Im hoping its a sign that the board is early enough NOT to have simplified type 3 blue alps. Could you check the switches for me? they look real enough.On my converter I think it sent some kind of modifier + F key combo. Most of the weird keys on the board did that.Here, I put together an imgur album of all the pictures my proxy sent me.Didnt wang use large esc keys on some of their terminal boards?If you mean the 3771; no, but the confusion is understandable; there is a 1.25 u Help key where the Esc key should normally be xD .Got photos from my proxy, what do you guys think? They look real to me. apparently the board I got was focus layout, score!I can't see those pics, need to log in. Can you host them somewhere else perhaps?
http://taobaofocus.com/orders/photos.en.php?id=89087 (http://taobaofocus.com/orders/photos.en.php?id=89087)
I asked for a better, clearer photo of the switch also, The markings on the top housing seem to be a good sign.In my experience with yellow alps, which is very limited, I have never seen yellow sliders this "vibrant". The plate on that board is so incredibly rusted I think the switches would be trashed anyway.Yellow Alps are always very desaturated AFAIK. Some linear Alps clones do have very intense yellow sliders though, including ones I found on a Focus board as lock light switches.
http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=40786928421 (http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=40786928421)
http://imgur.com/a/aFZFu (http://imgur.com/a/aFZFu)
As for the wang help key, what does it do when plugged into a normal pc? does it send scan codes?
As for the board, does that have one of those EEPROM chips on it? Oo
Nothing again. typical.When go to a thrift shop you must go with a clear mind with no expectations. That is the only time you will find anything of value.
I never really expect much, most of my items ive gotten at thrift shops came from times I just went on a whim, or times I went looking for something else.Nothing again. typical.When go to a thrift shop you must go with a clear mind with no expectations. That is the only time you will find anything of value.
:DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/O7hfk9B.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tLVNXld.jpg)
Have one more spot, wish it to be SKCL Brown.
looks like fun! what numpad did you use as the base?This unbranded Chinese numpad. It had some nasty clones. There are two versions, one is a standard numpad and the other is mine, rows of 1U's. Perfect.
Ahh finally, the mythical, comprehensive Alps switch tester you've been putting together. I remember that number pad. Very nice, Mattr. :)
I'm keeping my SKCL Browns as spares if I ever need a replacement for my NCR, though I could always just use the switch plates from SKCL compact to repair broken switches (and I have), but I don't know.
Okay, been following this thread and can't put it off anymore. Might bite the bullet and order SKCM Blue and SKCL Green boards that TB seller has. They look pretty beat up; how much of a risk is everyone taking just for the switches?if you order the skcl green board he has up right now Ill buy all the keycaps off of you
On the Green listing there are selections for "Green Big" and "Green Small." When I click either there's no difference other than price.
Anyone able to tell what the main difference is?
Hmmm, do those greens have black switchplates then? =oYep!
Woohoo, looks like I'll be able to get my hands on another IBM 5140 keyboard! Quite excited. ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/jbumj2h.jpg)
Woohoo, looks like I'll be able to get my hands on another IBM 5140 keyboard! Quite excited. ;Ddamnit man why do you have to get all the brown alpsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/jbumj2h.jpg)
Woohoo, looks like I'll be able to get my hands on another IBM 5140 keyboard! Quite excited. ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/jbumj2h.jpg)
Which Alps come in a 5140?
What sort of Alps switch exist? (like cherry's blue, red,,,)
Where sold Alps switch keyboards? I can't find neither at ebay and amazon.
What sort of Alps switch exist? (like cherry's blue, red,,,)Wow, what perefect timing ! Chyros Just uploaded a video detailing types and colors of alps switches. Give it a watch.
Where sold Alps switch keyboards? I can't find neither at ebay and amazon.
What sort of Alps switch exist? (like cherry's blue, red,,,)
Where sold Alps switch keyboards? I can't find neither at ebay and amazon.
the most valued switches are Clicky SKCM Blue ALPS and Linear SKCL Green.I personally think skcm brown is more valuable and alot more rare than skcl green
Those spherical japanese doubleshots look lovely, Mattr567. I think the molds are the same as same-era Canon typewriter caps. Maybe 1985–86ish?
Does this look like the same profile?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ivgULup.jpg)
the most valued switches are Clicky SKCM Blue ALPS and Linear SKCL Green.I personally think skcm brown is more valuable and alot more rare than skcl green
Those spherical japanese doubleshots look lovely, Mattr567. I think the molds are the same as same-era Canon typewriter caps. Maybe 1985–86ish?
Does this look like the same profile?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ivgULup.jpg)
Also does anyone know why on the SKCM Blues the bottom says "FD" rather than the Alps logo?
Also does anyone know why on the SKCM Blues the bottom says "FD" rather than the Alps logo?
That appears to be the branding of Forward Electronics, which is pretty unusual, since I thought this was only seen on the SKBM/SKBL line of switches.
According to the DT wiki, they produced SKCM Whites for Alps as well so I guess this makes sense.
Those Multistation caps are gorgeous, but I know there's no way to get anything resembling an ANSI layout out of them
Yeah, the DT wiki says that Forward Electronics-made SKCM Whites were likely sourced as overflow capacity or for cost reduction so that may be the case here.
I'm quite surprised to see that Forward made SKCM Blues at all. It's pretty widely believed that White Alps took the place of Blue Alps but to see that Forward also made some could imply that:
- Blue Alps were actually in production later than we previously thought.
- Forward was helping Alps produce them when Alps was over capacity, which would be additional to Alps' other factories.
- Forward produced simplified versions of Blue Alps, which would be SKBM Blue.
Wow, the possibility of there being SKBM Blues is really something to think about, but I would be quite surprised if there were such a thing, given the number of years between the SKCM Blue and SKBM/SKCM switch production! :eek:
Are the spherical tops of the Canon caps sculpted with a significant dip, or are they flatter like SA profile caps? The caps of the Multistation practically hug your fingers, much like Topre Hi Pro caps. I couldn't tell from pictures of the Canon, but it didn't look to have the same kind of spherical sculpt. The bottom row is also convex on the Multistation as opposed to concave.They are almost certainly the same top scoop as the spherical Multistation keycaps; both seem to be substantially more scooped than the Alps “phoneboard” caps, or the various nearly flat spherical-ish and uniform profile keycaps used with SKFL boards. But not as scooped as some other keycaps I’ve seen.
I have a Kailh red switch, a loose one, but I don't have a board so I don't know too much about them. What's so bad about them?They feel super scratchy , there is a quite audible "sandy" noise if you slowly press the key. This is after 4+ months of heavy daily usage. Like a combination of MX Red and MX Black. Their one saving grace is that their weighting isn't bad, its right between MX Reds and MX Blacks at 50g.
Unless you just want to build your own, BlueNalgene is working on a combination SMK/Alps keyboard that will come in full size and TKL, plus you can use Alps keycaps from an AEK or similar.
As for what I've been up to, I got an SMK Blue Alps-mount board yesterday and I'm looking forward to playing with that. I might try and design my own plate to make a 60% keyboard with them just for fun.
All in all, I am committing to un-hack my wallet so I'm going to reduce my spending going forward. I tend to get obsessed with a hobby over a summer and go all out but I've already spent quite a bit on this one sooooo it's time for me to cut back.
Ooh, I'm very interested in seeing where you take this; guessing you plan to hand-wire this!
Haha, I feel the same way, I've only been in this hobby for a couple of months and already I've spent way way more than I probably should have. :))
Once I finish up my current Alps builds, that will probably be it for me for a long while..
(Although I said the same thing before I got into Alps :-X)
I'm quite surprised to see that Forward made SKCM Blues at all. It's pretty widely believed that White Alps took the place of Blue Alps but to see that Forward also made some could imply that:
- Blue Alps were actually in production later than we previously thought.
- Forward was helping Alps produce them when Alps was over capacity, which would be additional to Alps' other factories.
- Forward produced simplified versions of Blue Alps, which would be SKBM Blue.
Those Multistation caps are gorgeous, but I know there's no way to get anything resembling an ANSI layout out of them
They are almost certainly the same top scoop as the spherical Multistation keycaps; both seem to be substantially more scooped than the Alps “phoneboard” caps, or the various nearly flat spherical-ish and uniform profile keycaps used with SKFL boards. But not as scooped as some other keycaps I’ve seen.
The bottom row on the relevant Canon typewriters only has a spacebar plus 1 or 2 1u keys, which use the home row profile. The 1u keys are concave.
You can see the profile of the Canon typewriter caps pretty well in this picture:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/puH1Ge4.jpg)
Alps phoneboard pic, for comparison, via https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81879.0Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b0Fs595.jpg)
It's awesome you got your stuff in, @Mattr. I'm a little bit worried about this whole Forward Electronics thing but I think it should be alright.I mean the insides are exactly the same so I don't think they are going to feel any worse than Alps made ones. When I clean them if they feel any worse than the couple Alps ones I have laying around thats likely due to condition, they are absolutely disgusting. Today I did finish restoring and desoldering the SKCL Green's, squeaky clean! :D Now onto the SKCM Blues.
Plan is to cut the original Multistation plate and make a 60%. Dark wood case, SKCM Blues and handwire + teensy using TMK. Like what Yoe did with a M0118. The plate will be painted blue too :)Those Multistation caps are gorgeous, but I know there's no way to get anything resembling an ANSI layout out of themYou could make a pretty nice HHKB style set-up with a little modding, or you could stem swap some SA caps to fill out the mods to have a similar-ish profile.
I mean the insides are exactly the same so I don't think they are going to feel any worse than Alps made ones. When I clean them if they feel any worse than the couple Alps ones I have laying around thats likely due to condition, they are absolutely disgusting. Today I did finish restoring and desoldering the SKCL Green's, squeaky clean! :D Now onto the SKCM Blues.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/X2JLqEw.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/26jX7uF.jpg)
Fair enough, and ick, dirty alps are the worst.
Your greens look lovely, though. Those sliders are so vivid, it's awesome. For comparison, here are some of the ones I pulled from an old Wyse board (I still have no idea what I'm going to do with them):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hdVtQ7G.png)
(Sorry about the poor image quality)
Just out of curiousity, how pingy are those SKCL greens now that you've cleaned 'em? Even after cleaning all of mine are pingy, I'll probably have to lube the springs at some point or another...
Does the rough feeling of the later Black ALPS just have to do with the tactile leaf or are there other factors at play?I suspect the main factor is the tactile leaf tbh. Linear-modded black Alps are super smooth, as good as any Greens.
SKCL Greens are just pingy, its their nature. It was hard to tell ping beforehand since a lot of them would get stuck in the down position. Never seen a Alps switch so dirty it stops working XD The ones that did work were effectively dampened by the dust so they got more pingy after cleaning I guess.
Have any of you discovered the right lube for Alps after you clean and refurbish them?
I am going to do a complete take-apart soon and want a good lube. I am considering this DuPont unless something better comes along
I have about 100 brand new green switches that I desoldered. I originally put it in my brand new NeXT with Portuguese caps but for whatever reason the controller stopped working after swapping switches, so now I guess I might wait for BlueNalgene's GB or maybe put them in a different board. I've also had some really bad Alps clones, where there were 5-6 that would get stuck in the down position and not pop back up (they were clicky switches too). I have them in a bag, maybe I should see how bad they are internally.
Did you use a pre-built converter for your NeXT board or what? Was it the ADB version?
Did you use a pre-built converter for your NeXT board or what? Was it the ADB version?
There's a NeXT that uses ADB? I thought that they were some other protocol?
Did you use a pre-built converter for your NeXT board or what? Was it the ADB version?
There's a NeXT that uses ADB? I thought that they were some other protocol?
What lubes would be recommended?
What lubes would be recommended?
What lubes would be recommended?
Spit.while almost any lubricant feels great initially, the long term effects might not show up for years.
Test driving the Multistation caps on my SGI Granite. So far liking them a lot! Very interesting to type on these. Can't wait to have them in a 60% w/ SKCM Blue. Right now on SKCM Orange they still feel great. Scopped homing keys > Line or dots.
Honestly they can be a pretty standard layout if you try.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KdpHPW5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/etTucQq.jpg)
this makes me wet.
I wonder how those multistation keycaps look when retrobrited.
I got in my SKCM Blue boards today, the good news is that all of my switches are genuine, Alps-branded switches! The bad news is that none of them feel "excellent." While none of them feel particularly awful, when compared to well-preserved Blue Alps the difference is incredible. I isolated a bunch of them that I thought felt good to great; however, as soon as I compared them to my Leading Edge board, I realized even the ones that felt "good" were still scratchy as heck. I have done a bit of testing and sadly, most seem to have sliders-related roughness which might be "uncurable." In addition, the colors of the sliders have faded rather noticeably, with some bordering on an off-white and bluish color. I am going to continue experimenting with these and I'll post the results. I have some DuPont lube coming in and while I wouldn't want to do the injustice of ruining these switches with lube, it may have to be done for keyboard science.
They look good compared to mine lolShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/nXIEENO.jpg)
So I did some experimenting to find out why the greens were so scratchy after cleaning. I took a extra good switch from my former Zenith and started swapping parts one at a time to find out what was causing it. Turns out the slider isn't the cause, which is great so I don't need to risk losing the lubricant by washing them. The causes were the top housing and the switch plate contact. So I took all the insides out of them and am going to wash all the tops in soap + water, and then thoroughly clean the switch plates. They should be good again :thumb:
Cleaning will do wonders for them. Mine feel so much better after cleaning. They just need a bit of lube on the sliders to make them as good as some mint ones I have laying around. Very curious about your results about the lube. Mine need them one way or another.
They look good compared to mine lolShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/nXIEENO.jpg)
That was pretty much just a picture of the "good" ones I selected, the others look like yours.So I did some experimenting to find out why the greens were so scratchy after cleaning. I took a extra good switch from my former Zenith and started swapping parts one at a time to find out what was causing it. Turns out the slider isn't the cause, which is great so I don't need to risk losing the lubricant by washing them. The causes were the top housing and the switch plate contact. So I took all the insides out of them and am going to wash all the tops in soap + water, and then thoroughly clean the switch plates. They should be good again :thumb:Cleaning will do wonders for them. Mine feel so much better after cleaning. They just need a bit of lube on the sliders to make them as good as some mint ones I have laying around. Very curious about your results about the lube. Mine need them one way or another.
You've probably already posted about this somewhere but I'm just asking again because I am lazy, did you end up cleaning the sliders or not? Also, potentially stupid question but do you have any tips about drying parts after you've cleaned them? I used my ultrasonic cleaner to clean some Orange Alps switches the other day and while it did a good job of cleaning most of the dust off, after the parts dried there were still little water/drying marks on them (most noticeably on the switch plates). I used distilled water so it is not like they are from a cleaning solution, it's just how the water dried. In any case, I'll definitely post back with lubing results when I get there.
In addition, the colors of the sliders have faded rather noticeably, with some bordering on an off-white and bluish color.
I refrained from buying any of these boards because I was confident there was absolutely no turning back from this amount of dust and dirt. I have a single blue Alps switch, and while it looks very clean, the difference between it and my KB-101A is night and day. I don't know why.I am doubtful as well but these boards were kind of an "eh, what the heck" kind of purchase for me. I figured I might as well get them to play around with them and see if I could discover anything interesting in the process.
In a way, the fact that it's happening is good though, because the work you guys will be doing might help to further our understanding of these switches :) .
I wonder whether the color was not always inconsistent. Here is a Leading Edge 2014 (in decent condition) when I first opened it up:
I refrained from buying any of these boards because I was confident there was absolutely no turning back from this amount of dust and dirt. I have a single blue Alps switch, and while it looks very clean, the difference between it and my KB-101A is night and day. I don't know why.
In a way, the fact that it's happening is good though, because the work you guys will be doing might help to further our understanding of these switches :) .
I wonder though if it's time to get people at least trying out Orange SKCM, Salmon SKCM, and Dampened Cream SKCM. I really like Orange and Dampened Cream...and Click-modded Orange are nice. And they're a bit easier to find if you still want that vintage vibe. Diversity is always nice.
Considering the skyrocketing prices of SKCM Blues we might be nearing such a point; however, I wouldn't say we're quite there, yet. That being said, I have been extensively experimenting with "diverse" switches lately. Linearised Blacks, Linearised Damped Creams, Click-modded Greens, Click-modded Oranges, Click-modded Damped Creams, Click-modded Salmons. Out of those, the Click-modded greens feel the best (they're so pingy, though) and the damped creams feel "squishy," almost like the spring doesn't bring the cap back up as quickly as it needs to. The others are OK, Click-modded oranges and salmons feeling pretty comparable and inferior to their orange counterparts; they are almost like Ambers. Nothing really competes with the feeling of my mint Blues, though, which is rather disappointing. I am still holding out hope that some TLC will restore these Taobao switches to such levels of greatness :thumb:
I refrained from buying any of these boards because I was confident there was absolutely no turning back from this amount of dust and dirt. I have a single blue Alps switch, and while it looks very clean, the difference between it and my KB-101A is night and day. I don't know why.
In a way, the fact that it's happening is good though, because the work you guys will be doing might help to further our understanding of these switches :) .
Has anyone ever posed the question that if Zeal can get Gateron to make Zealios - maybe Matias could make Blue Alps? I'm sure it's not a fair comparison.
Has anyone ever posed the question that if Zeal can get Gateron to make Zealios - maybe Matias could make Blue Alps? I'm sure it's not a fair comparison.
Unfortunately no one wants to touch complex alps with a 10' pole due to the number of pieces in the switch plate (6 i believe).
The Leading Edge that I just sold has wildly inconsistent coloring. Some of them are closer to a teal color while others are closer to a navy color.
The reason for starting with simplified was almost certainly because the tooling already existed and could be utilized.
After investing what was necessary (molds, stamps, etc.) to revive SKC[M\L] switches the price per switch would make Zealios look like a bargain. :))
If more people found that Alps switches are far superior to Cherries, then the cost of new tooling could be recouped and they would become the new king of mechanical keyboards (if only)! :rolleyes: :p :'(
Mattr it's awesome seeing you clean up the switches because like chyros, the prospect of trying to get boards from TaoBao AND cleaning these switches up is insane to me lol. Glad you guys have been able to scoop so much SKCM/SKCL goodness.
I wonder though if it's time to get people at least trying out Orange SKCM, Salmon SKCM, and Dampened Cream SKCM. I really like Orange and Dampened Cream...and Click-modded Orange are nice. And they're a bit easier to find if you still want that vintage vibe. Diversity is always nice.
I don't think this is ever going to happen because the market is already heavily geared towards Cherry and Cherry compatible clones.
how expensive were the original ALPS switches compared to Cherry at the time?Cheaper.
Were ALPS boards generally cheaper or more expensive when they were being sold?
Was Alps MDS-101 a bigfoot keyboard, or some crap flimsy thing?It's a wave board actually, so not a great comparison come to think of it.
For a better price comparison, I think you should in the ~1988 range. By early 90s lots of vendors were already cutting costs aggressively.
Neato, are those prices adjusted or were those the prices at the time?how expensive were the original ALPS switches compared to Cherry at the time?Cheaper.
Were ALPS boards generally cheaper or more expensive when they were being sold?
1992:
G80-1000: $110
G80-3000: $105
Alps MDS-101: $85
Chicony 5181: $50
OmniKey 101: $89
At the time. By today's values it would be ca. 1.7 times that.Neato, are those prices adjusted or were those the prices at the time?how expensive were the original ALPS switches compared to Cherry at the time?Cheaper.
Were ALPS boards generally cheaper or more expensive when they were being sold?
1992:
G80-1000: $110
G80-3000: $105
Alps MDS-101: $85
Chicony 5181: $50
OmniKey 101: $89
The other day I got an Orange Alps keyboard like this one but yours is in far better condition, the plate from mine is so rusty and all the sliders have pretty severe wear marks on them. I was really hoping they'd be smoother than salmon/pink Alps but they're in such poor condition that the salmon/pink alps are actually smoother :p I would have to do a lot of work if I wanted to make them viable for a project.
I am going to do a complete take-apart soon and want a good lube. I am considering this DuPont unless something better comes along:
Oh, Wingpad, you must've missed the peak of the Alps hype. It's already tanked quite a bit since then, but boards were regularly going for over $200 with peaks at $400 or so. We're not seeing those prices at the moment, but I'm sure something in the community will flare up Alps prices again. Maybe SPRiT's Alps spring release.
I guess Matias is busy finishing off his thick PBT caps, and his matching 60% keyboard, but once (if?) those hit the market I think we might see another resurgence in interest in Alps in general. And probably another peak-blue-alps scenario.
some of these formerly-tactile switches are now quasi-clicky
I am going to do a complete take-apart soon and want a good lube. I am considering this DuPont unless something better comes along:
So I finally got around to revisiting the messed up Orange switches and testing the DuPont lubrication. Lubing the sliders, top housing, click plates and the switch plates of cleaned switches seems to yield the best results. The switches are much smoother and no longer feel as scratchy, some of these formerly-tactile switches are now quasi-clicky, though, simply because the click plates have been bent out of shape over time. Sometime over the weekend I will try cleaning a few of the dirty Taobao blues and I will report back on what happens when I lube them in a similar fashion.
I guess I really didn't realize the difference between blue alps and mx greens til' I did a side-by-side comparison. Goodness gracious, these things make my mx greens feel like children's toys and it's hilarious :pHaha yeah the contrast it pretty stark xD . Welcome to the brotherhood! ;p
So I finally got around to revisiting the messed up Orange switches and testing the DuPont lubrication.
What DuPont lube did you use?
Is the click happening on the up stroke? At my limited time doing reassembly of orange alps, I found that sometimes the switch would exhibit this kind of click, and if I reassembled it again (or five more times sometimes :)), everything would fall in place, and it would go back to being just tactile.Yeah, it's on the upstroke OK so I will look into this. Thanks for the advice!
Interesting. I was only planning to do the sliders like the factory. Too much lube might remove the click. Plus using that much could affect the switch more over time.I only hit the areas where the slider touches the various parts of the switch and lightly painted it on at that. My orange switches are still "clicky" (when they shouldn't be) so I would imagine that means that the Blues will remain clicky (like they should be) after lubing/cleaning. I am not sure of the long-term effects of this lube on the switch, it worries me a bit too but I will have to keep an eye on them. Letting them sit for a day has had positive results and they feel smoother already.
This thread fills up quickly. Are we still talking about the one I showed in #2118? I was going to squirt it in a little dish and paint it on.Yeah it was the lube you showed in #2118, that's what I did as well.
I am going to do a complete take-apart soon and want a good lube. I am considering this DuPont unless something better comes along:
So I finally got around to revisiting the messed up Orange switches and testing the DuPont lubrication. Lubing the sliders, top housing, click plates and the switch plates of cleaned switches seems to yield the best results. The switches are much smoother and no longer feel as scratchy, some of these formerly-tactile switches are now quasi-clicky, though, simply because the click plates have been bent out of shape over time. Sometime over the weekend I will try cleaning a few of the dirty Taobao blues and I will report back on what happens when I lube them in a similar fashion.
Interesting. I was only planning to do the sliders like the factory. Too much lube might remove the click. Plus using that much could affect the switch more over time. What DuPont lube did you use?
Do you think Matias ever reads a thread like this and says to himself ****!!! My plan was for everyone to abandon vintage and buy MY stuff. :D
I am going to do a complete take-apart soon and want a good lube. I am considering this DuPont unless something better comes along:
So I finally got around to revisiting the messed up Orange switches and testing the DuPont lubrication. Lubing the sliders, top housing, click plates and the switch plates of cleaned switches seems to yield the best results. The switches are much smoother and no longer feel as scratchy, some of these formerly-tactile switches are now quasi-clicky, though, simply because the click plates have been bent out of shape over time. Sometime over the weekend I will try cleaning a few of the dirty Taobao blues and I will report back on what happens when I lube them in a similar fashion.
Interesting. I was only planning to do the sliders like the factory. Too much lube might remove the click. Plus using that much could affect the switch more over time. What DuPont lube did you use?
I certainly wouldn't lube the leaves, or if so, maybe only the arc of the leaf that contacts the slider for tactility, and that's only if one would want reduced tactility. I'd just lube the slider tabs that are typically lubed by Alps and the top housing since as we've found, the top housing is very essential to the feel of an Alps switch, creating huge differences between pine and bamboo housings, and given the fact that a bamboo switch with a pine housing will feel exactly like its pine counterparts.
I wouldn't lube the contact leaf spring (but it wouldn't hurt, since the contacts are contained) or the leaves, myself. Maybe an SKCM Brown leaf to see if it'd lighten the resistance at all, but eh.
In general, I don't like lubing Alps if they're in good condition. Sure, if you're restoring them, by all means; f they're that bad, do all you can to bring them back up to snuff, but I wouldn't touch switches that are in good condition. I would, however, lube the return springs on pingy linear switches though. I don't like Alps spring ping very much for the most part, so I've done that for every linear build I've made. Blues ping as well, but it's much less noticeable.
One interesting effect I had happen when I was cleaning and restoring my Acer KB101A, was that the click leaves in the SKCM Blues became mute after using a bit of alcohol to clean the grime between the rows and columns on the plate. Switches weren't dirty at all, I should add.
The isopropanol must've seeped into the switches and caused that effect. However, once it evaporated, everything was all good. It was 99% so it didn't take too long nor have too much risk of corroding anything, I think.
I certainly wouldn't lube the leaves, or if so, maybe only the arc of the leaf that contacts the slider for tactility, and that's only if one would want reduced tactility. I'd just lube the slider tabs that are typically lubed by Alps and the top housing since as we've found, the top housing is very essential to the feel of an Alps switch, creating huge differences between pine and bamboo housings, and given the fact that a bamboo switch with a pine housing will feel exactly like its pine counterparts.I don't think that I'll do it for my actual blue alps, I am considering these orange alps to be a "practice round" of sorts more than anything else. And, yeah, I only lubed where the arcs touch the slider. Noob question but what are you referring to as the slider tabs? I thought I knew but now I am a bit confused, haha.
I wouldn't lube the contact leaf spring (but it wouldn't hurt, since the contacts are contained) or the leaves, myself. Maybe an SKCM Brown leaf to see if it'd lighten the resistance at all, but eh.
Would swapping my NeXT w/ SKCM Blue be a good idea you think?I think it would certainly be an interesting idea, the layout of the NeXT boards would give you just about all of the modern keys you would want, albeit in strange places. Would you be keeping the stock PCB or hand wiring it?
Would swapping my NeXT w/ SKCM Blue be a good idea you think?
I don't think that I'll do it for my actual blue alps, I am considering these orange alps to be a "practice round" of sorts more than anything else. As for the bit about the pine/bamboo switches I really need to get my hands on a few to try them. Sounds like I am missing an awesome switch. And, yeah, all that I lubed were the arcs touching the slider. Noob question but what are you referring to as the slider tabs?
Stock PCB + Hasu's converterWould swapping my NeXT w/ SKCM Blue be a good idea you think?I think it would certainly be an interesting idea, the layout of the NeXT boards would give you just about all of the modern keys you would want, albeit in strange places. Would you be keeping the stock PCB or hand wiring it?
Would swapping my NeXT w/ SKCM Blue be a good idea you think?
If you get a NeXT converter, then definitely. Use the neat tactile creams for a custom build or sell them. :thumb:
Not only would it fit well with the board because of its doubleshots, but the switches would fit the all black aesthetic quite nicely too. :) The build of the case would also likely have some nice acoustics with SKCM Blues.I don't think that I'll do it for my actual blue alps, I am considering these orange alps to be a "practice round" of sorts more than anything else. As for the bit about the pine/bamboo switches I really need to get my hands on a few to try them. Sounds like I am missing an awesome switch. And, yeah, all that I lubed were the arcs touching the slider. Noob question but what are you referring to as the slider tabs?
Oh, the little part on the slider where the square cut out is, on the bottom side--it's the part that meets the contact.
Here's the picture:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i8WglQb.jpg)
On factory-lubed switches, you usually see two streaks on either side of that cut out. I'm thinking that's where the original lube was applied.
If you do swap your NeXT be careful since mine somehow stopped working after the fact.Oh yea I remember you said that earlier. That's really weird, maybe a fluke or a solder mistake. Will do :thumb:
Took a while, but here it is:
LZ-FE with blue alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vfQoWpI.jpg)
Took a while, but here it is:
LZ-FE with blue alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vfQoWpI.jpg)
Interesting blue and yellow colors. Where'd you get the space bar from, henz?
Took a while, but here it is:
LZ-FE with blue alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vfQoWpI.jpg)
Interesting blue and yellow colors. Where'd you get the space bar from, henz?
You can make your own, let a spacebar sit in a tanning bed for a few hours.
Took a while, but here it is:
LZ-FE with blue alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vfQoWpI.jpg)
Took a while, but here it is:
LZ-FE with blue alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vfQoWpI.jpg)
Interesting blue and yellow colors. Where'd you get the space bar from, henz?
You can make your own, let a spacebar sit in a tanning bed for a few hours.
Hahaha, wow. I didn't even think of that! Henz, you incorporated yellowing into your color coordination? YOU SLY DOG though it probably wasn't exactly intentional
There was a yellowed (browned?) M0116J on auction earlier today. http://page24.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/q121728290#enlargeimg
I imagine a lot of nice combinations could be done there :)
Took a while, but here it is:
LZ-FE with blue alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vfQoWpI.jpg)
Wow beautiful board!
https://world.taobao.com/item/520706952249.htm?spm=a312a.7728556.2015080705.13.ZK7dtJ&id=520706952249&scm=1007.12006.12548.i37835460918&pvid=cfd1824e-112f-42cf-a444-a3eb42a06a1a
o.O reen Alps in a Sun layout with some gorgeous Futura cap lettering. I wonder what it originally was-- there weren't that many aftermarket Sun boards.
Just found a Wang 725-3770 on Texas craigslist. That would be a even better candidate for a SKCM Blue swap...Will contact him.
Just found a Wang 725-3770 on Texas craigslist. That would be a even better candidate for a SKCM Blue swap...Will contact him.
Good luck with getting that! All I've ever found on craigslist were a bunch of old rubber dome Triad Systems keyboards... so you guy lucky :p
How goes your restoration work with the SKCM Blues? With minimal lubing mine feel pretty decent and rather smooth; however, they feel heavier than the mint SKCM Blues I pulled from a Leading Edge board and closer to Montery Blues than SKCM Blues (in other words, better than SKCM Whites but you don't feel like you're typing on a cloud of clicky, smooth air).
Good luck with getting that! All I've ever found on craigslist were a bunch of old rubber dome Triad Systems keyboards... so you guy lucky :p
How goes your restoration work with the SKCM Blues? With minimal lubing mine feel pretty decent and rather smooth; however, they feel heavier than the mint SKCM Blues I pulled from a Leading Edge board and closer to Montery Blues than SKCM Blues (in other words, better than SKCM Whites but you don't feel like you're typing on a cloud of clicky, smooth air).
pay a handsome sum for a set like that
Maybe enough for a 60%? That's what everyone seems to use nowadays anyway xD .
pay a handsome sum for a set like that
No way to piece together a proper set of those. At best the alphas and a handful of random odd matches.
Maybe enough for a 60%? That's what everyone seems to use nowadays anyway xD .
pay a handsome sum for a set like that
No way to piece together a proper set of those. At best the alphas and a handful of random odd matches.
Well, I went ahead and bought another SGI Granite, bit of an impulse buy, but I guess I can use it for a project like a switch swap or something. At the very least I'll have an extra set of them nice SGI caps. :P
Thanks! Yes, that's the one, it seemed to be reasonably priced so I thought I might as well.
I actually only have the set of SGI key caps so I'm getting the keyboard to also experiment with swapping the dampened sliders with the ones in my brown Alps. I recall reading that the force curve of brown Alps is rounded like that of Topre switches; I have not tried Topre at all, but I wonder if using dampened sliders will produce something that feels similar.
I imagine E3E or Jacobolus has performed such an experiment already so I'd be curious to hear their thoughts on it.
The Wang 725-3770 is mine :D $40 Looks to have SKCM Orange/SKCL Green from the rear label since it mentions IBM XT, AT and PS/2 compatibility.I think only very early ones had oranges and greens tbh, but who knows :) .
The Wang 725-3770 is mine :D $40 Looks to have SKCM Orange/SKCL Green from the rear label since it mentions IBM XT, AT and PS/2 compatibility.I think only very early ones had oranges and greens tbh, but who knows :) .
yall are making me want a wang so bad (no homo lmao)The Wang 725-3770 is mine :D $40 Looks to have SKCM Orange/SKCL Green from the rear label since it mentions IBM XT, AT and PS/2 compatibility.I think only very early ones had oranges and greens tbh, but who knows :) .
Who knows :p Kinda hoping for a salmon/yellow board since I already have a orange board. Looking at pics of salmon and black boards they don't mention XT while the orange boards I found online do mention it so at least it's not a late one. Maybe a early salmon/green board perhaps.
yall are making me want a wang so bad (no homo lmao)The Wang 725-3770 is mine :D $40 Looks to have SKCM Orange/SKCL Green from the rear label since it mentions IBM XT, AT and PS/2 compatibility.I think only very early ones had oranges and greens tbh, but who knows :) .
Who knows :p Kinda hoping for a salmon/yellow board since I already have a orange board. Looking at pics of salmon and black boards they don't mention XT while the orange boards I found online do mention it so at least it's not a late one. Maybe a early salmon/green board perhaps.
now youre just rubbing it in. whats not to love?yall are making me want a wang so bad (no homo lmao)The Wang 725-3770 is mine :D $40 Looks to have SKCM Orange/SKCL Green from the rear label since it mentions IBM XT, AT and PS/2 compatibility.I think only very early ones had oranges and greens tbh, but who knows :) .
Who knows :p Kinda hoping for a salmon/yellow board since I already have a orange board. Looking at pics of salmon and black boards they don't mention XT while the orange boards I found online do mention it so at least it's not a late one. Maybe a early salmon/green board perhaps.
Cool design and layout, in cap lock lights, Alps dyesubs with blue double dyesub printing, deep dish homing keys and a speaker :p
Cool design and layout, in cap lock lights, Alps dyesubs with blue double dyesub printing, deep dish homing keys and a speaker :p
I think they are pretty nice-looking boards, marred only by their extra-long right modifiers. :rolleyes:I am very used to non standard modifiers now thanks to my f xt, so a layout like the wang has would feel refreshingly normal.
I think they are pretty nice-looking boards, marred only by their extra-long right modifiers. :rolleyes:
Lol didn't know the difference. Yea I was surprised to find one. Took so much craigslist-fu to find it. Originally wanted 60 but got him down and willing to ship :thumb: The same guy is also selling a '95 Model M.Cool design and layout, in cap lock lights, Alps dyesubs with blue double dyesub printing, deep dish homing keys and a speaker :p
Deep dish? That's for sphericals man, cylindrical caps have SCOOPS. GET IT RIGHT. :cool:
Congrats though. People pay a lot of money for their Wangs more often than not. You've skated by with your Wang. People dream of Wangs for $40 shipped.
I don't know though, it might just be me, but I find Wangs to look a little weird.
It's pretty ANSI imo. Just some extra keys and a couple movements like prtsrc and pause/breakI think they are pretty nice-looking boards, marred only by their extra-long right modifiers. :rolleyes:
The layout is a little eccentric, and I'm not sure why, but they are certainly usable, but then that's subjective. :P I mean, Model F pattern boards are usable too. At least the Wang is closer to ANSI.
I think they are pretty nice-looking boards, marred only by their extra-long right modifiers. :rolleyes:
The layout is a little eccentric, and I'm not sure why, but they are certainly usable, but then that's subjective. :P I mean, Model F pattern boards are usable too. At least the Wang is closer to ANSI.
Well, if you like both the sound and feel of the Matias QCs then SKCM Cream Damped or White Damped switches would be the obvious choice here. :Dregular skcm cream kicks ass, I cant see how you didnt put that on your non damped list
Otherwise, SKCM Oranges or Salmons if you want something that isn't dampened.
Ah, perhaps I should have mentioned it, but I only included switches that can be found on relatively common boards that one wouldn't feel bad about tearing apart. I wouldn't put something like the Next keyboard on that list. :PneXt boards can be had for <40$ on ebay, I would call them common. I still need to build a converter for mine though.
Isn't that just one guy selling a stash of boards that's slowly drying up though? Looks like he has one more of the okay condition ones left. If klennkellon wants one, he'd better grab one now. :Pyeah, I think its just that one guy but there was like 25+ boards that he had
Lol didn't know the difference. Yea I was surprised to find one. Took so much craigslist-fu to find it. Originally wanted 60 but got him down and willing to ship :thumb: The same guy is also selling a '95 Model M.
Lol didn't know the difference. Yea I was surprised to find one. Took so much craigslist-fu to find it. Originally wanted 60 but got him down and willing to ship :thumb: The same guy is also selling a '95 Model M.
I actually found it really quickly, that exact listing too no less, haha. He has a model 724 wang up there now, sent him an email about it (yours was a model 725, right?). There are sites that will let you do a national craigslist search and typing in "Wang keyboard" brought it up in seconds.
Wait dude! 724=725! Don't mess things up. I got him lower so don't want him to sell it to you for full price!
Oh ok, whew. Don't want to lose it at the last minute like previous deals lol. He's supposed to send me a PayPal invoice today.Wait dude! 724=725! Don't mess things up. I got him lower so don't want him to sell it to you for full price!
Whoops, nevermind, just sent him an email saying I bought one for less on eBay. Wouldn't want to swipe that out from under you.
EDIT: I actually found it a few days ago and emailed him then. Never heard back from him so I think you're safe.Huh. Well ok then. First sent an email about it on the fourth.
do any of you guys know if the keycaps on the clone model ms with blue alps are dyesubbed pbt like the real deal?
These boards?do any of you guys know if the keycaps on the clone model ms with blue alps are dyesubbed pbt like the real deal?
Did we ever determine if the boards from Taobao were clone model ms or not? If they are then the answer is no, these were double-shot ABS for the alphas/mods and some sort of printing for the F-keys. My board is labelled as JKB-6151M/OEM.
EDIT: Looking at the one example on Deskthority I am going to go ahead and say this board was definitely not a clone model m in a past life. The stabilizers and the plate's shape are wrong.
These boards?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3gV4GtP.jpg)
thats no model m, thats an early focus board, like one of the ones I ordered. the supposed model m clone is the one in my pic.These boards?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3gV4GtP.jpg)
I was talking about these:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VC7T7bj.jpg)
I thought that someone suspected that they were model m's or something.
thats no model m, thats an early focus board, like one of the ones I ordered. the supposed model m clone is the one in my pic.
I was thinking of using an AEK1 or one of those m011a for caps and switches. But I would replace the switches with these Matias and also replace the caps.why trade skcm salmon or orange for anything matias? I do know the matias caps are **** though.
very interesting. I wonder what board the plate and pcb I got came from. it has those long stemmed f row caps, the stepped caps lock and the green legends on the alt keys.
I was thinking of using an AEK1 or one of those m011a for caps and switches. But I would replace the switches with these Matias and also replace the caps.why trade skcm salmon or orange for anything matias? I do know the matias caps are **** though.
For the first part, I dont know, those are just the photos the taobao agent sent me.very interesting. I wonder what board the plate and pcb I got came from. it has those long stemmed f row caps, the stepped caps lock and the green legends on the alt keys.
Mysteries abound, does your PCB have any markings on it?I was thinking of using an AEK1 or one of those m011a for caps and switches. But I would replace the switches with these Matias and also replace the caps.
why trade skcm salmon or orange for anything matias? I do know the matias caps are **** though.
I am confused by this... getting an AEKI for switches and caps then replacing the switches and caps? Heh?
That being said, I second mike's logic here... unless you wanted damped switches, I guess. Why are Matias' keycaps ****, though?
I already have a board with Matias QCs. I was going to harvest switches from an AEK and replace them with the Matias I have because I don't want to ruin a nice board like the AEK.haha thats what you meant. that actually makes sense.
The caps the V80 has are front print laser etched/filled
My Taobao board is that.thats no model m, thats an early focus board, like one of the ones I ordered. the supposed model m clone is the one in my pic.
Yeah, I figured that out, haha. Regardless, I don't think that's a model m either since the model m clones don't have their lock lights on the PCB. Like in this image:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZrYxBHp.jpg)
thats no model m, thats an early focus board, like one of the ones I ordered. the supposed model m clone is the one in my pic.
Yeah, I figured that out, haha. Regardless, I don't think that's a model m either since the model m clones don't have their lock lights on the PCB. Like in this image:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZrYxBHp.jpg)
I got a few of those boards and based on the pictures I got from the proxy I'm gong to guess doubleshots. The only PBT dyesubs I know of with sub-legends are those from Apple boards.
I am typing to you now on the NeXT! SKCM Cream is gud :p
when we meet up Ill bring my neXt and you can try the skcm creams for yourself.I am typing to you now on the NeXT! SKCM Cream is gud :p
I have been staving off buying one of these because of the whole "unhacking my wallet thing" (which has been met with varying degrees of success, haha) but this makes me tempted again. Are SKCM Cream switches lubed like Oranges?
Should be I guess, they're first-gen =o .I am typing to you now on the NeXT! SKCM Cream is gud :p
I have been staving off buying one of these because of the whole "unhacking my wallet thing" (which has been met with varying degrees of success, haha) but this makes me tempted again. Are SKCM Cream switches lubed like Oranges?
Got Hasu's NeXT converter! Although I can't use it since I don't have a usb2 micro b to usb a cable. :(
edit: My phone cable! totally forgot! Will still need to buy a cable though.
I am typing to you now on the NeXT! SKCM Cream is gud :p
Futaba lock. common on old Focus calculator boards.Thanks cool to know I learned something new.
Lol yea.Got Hasu's NeXT converter! Although I can't use it since I don't have a usb2 micro b to usb a cable. :(
edit: My phone cable! totally forgot! Will still need to buy a cable though.I am typing to you now on the NeXT! SKCM Cream is gud :p
The time it took to go from post #1 to #2 makes me laugh, lol.
Where did you pick up your converter? How much was it? It's very tempting, since I do like the NeXT.
Should be I guess, they're first-gen =o .Ah, so they are considered to be first gen switches. I didn't know if it had been placed on the Alps timeline. The last post I read about them implied that we (the keyboard community) didn't know when they were produced/which generation they were in.
when we meet up Ill bring my neXt and you can try the skcm creams for yourself.Awesome, thanks man!
what else can a dc-2014 come with? btw, one of my taobao boards will be coming tomorrow.Should be I guess, they're first-gen =o .Ah, so they are considered to be first gen switches. I didn't know if it had been placed on the Alps timeline. The last post I read about them implied that we (the keyboard community) didn't know when they were produced/which generation they were in.when we meet up Ill bring my neXt and you can try the skcm creams for yourself.Awesome, thanks man!
In other news, I got a Leading Edge DC-2014 keyboard for like $15 today. I am optimistic it has Blue Alps *crosses fingers*
what else can a dc-2014 come with? btw, one of my taobao boards will be coming tomorrow.I don't think a DC-2014 can come with anything else, I am just worried since the seller isn't the most technical and I didn't get the actual model number from it. I should have said "DC-2014" in quotes since that would be more accurate. From the pictures I have seen of it, it looks like a DC-2014; I don't think any other Leading Edge boards came with its signature layout.
Nothing's ever for sure in Alps land, we thought the same about the KB-101A and there are white Alps ones of that, too :p .
It'd be a pretty good guess though xD .
Something to consider is that some DC-2014 might be resold with switches swapped out. Any untouched DC-2014 will be blue Alps for sure though.
Ive thought about this too, but make sure you mention it is for a collector only, and it doesnt have the original switches. we dont want to **** over any of our keyboarding buddies :))Something to consider is that some DC-2014 might be resold with switches swapped out. Any untouched DC-2014 will be blue Alps for sure though.
This is a possibility I've wondered before too, because I've considered selling boards after switch swapping (I've never actually swapped switch types in my vintages though), though it'd be in poor taste to sell it without mentioning that aspect.
Something to consider is that some DC-2014 might be resold with switches swapped out.Like I said, the seller is not that technical so I have am willing to gander that is not the case.
Nothing's ever for sure in Alps land, we thought the same about the KB-101A and there are white Alps ones of that, too :pLol, therein lies the root of my concerns. It's good, though, we'll always be learning things :p
I have sold a bare AEK with black bamboo switches swapped into it before. Since it was bare it was easy to see it didn't have the original switches and I made sure to mention that someone had swapped its switches.Ive thought about this too, but make sure you mention it is for a collector only, and it doesnt have the original switches. we dont want to **** over any of our keyboarding buddies :))Something to consider is that some DC-2014 might be resold with switches swapped out. Any untouched DC-2014 will be blue Alps for sure though.
This is a possibility I've wondered before too, because I've considered selling boards after switch swapping (I've never actually swapped switch types in my vintages though), though it'd be in poor taste to sell it without mentioning that aspect.
I have sold a bare AEK with black bamboo switches swapped into it before. Since it was bare it was easy to see it didn't have the original switches and I made sure to mention that someone had swapped its switches.I saw that board on ebay awhile back, small world.
Something to consider is that some DC-2014 might be resold with switches swapped out.Like I said, the seller is not that technical so I have am willing to gander that is not the case.
Do you happen to have a picture? I've seen a BTC (I think) Leading Edge board that looked awfully similar but was not a DC-2014. In all likelyhood, it's a DC-2014. That BTC model is actually harder to find, I'd say.
Do you happen to have a picture? I've seen a BTC (I think) Leading Edge board that looked awfully similar but was not a DC-2014. In all likelyhood, it's a DC-2014. That BTC model is actually harder to find, I'd say.
You mean one like this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leading-Edge-AT-Style-Unusual-Keyboard-/151065549650?hash=item232c355b52:g:bSQAAOxy7MtRv0cM)? Mine doesn't have a lock light like the one in this picture so I think I am safe :D
EDIT: I didn't see your edit, my conclusion is unchanged. That's a weird enter key, too...
Haha yeah, right? A completely vertical enter key. I've never seen that before. Yeah, the odds are in your favor, my friend! :DIt was standard for many XT keyboards ;) .
Vertical enter is pretty bad, but ive gotten used to the xt layout. normal ansi feels weird to me after using an xt board for a few weeks.I think the XT return key is especially heinous because 1) it's narrow and 2) it's stepped, forcing you to hit the key's plateau situated between the second and third rows.
Whats up with all of the stepped keys on the XT Model F.They didn't like using stabs at the time.
How come the XT version got all stepped keys and the AT version used mostly stabed keys? Is there a reason for this?
Whats up with all of the stepped keys on the XT Model F.:p
How come the XT version got all stepped keys and the AT version used mostly stabed keys? Is there a reason for this?My guess is that it's a holdover from beam spring. The two keys on the bottom edges of my 3101, RESET and SEND respectively, have off-centre stems off to the sides, so the bit towards the centre is stepped off; however, I found that they didn't really need to step the keys, as they push just as smoothly on the stepped off bits. The 3101 also shares the XT's propensity for small SHIFT keys and a vertical return key, though on the beam spring the SHIFT, LOCK (third row leftmost), RETURN (vertical, third to fourth row), BACKSPACE, are not stepped either. Perhaps IBM recognized this quaint shortcoming of buckling springs but didn't care about it...?
The PC-AT succeeded the PC-XT, so the AT layout was just another iterative step towards the modern 104-key layout.Isn't the BAE just a merger of the ISO and ANSI return keys? Focus does a good job preserving a usable BACKSPACE by placing the BACKSLASH to the right of the right SHIFT, which is quite reasonable in my opinion. I don't strike the right SHIFT on its right side, at all; perhaps my pinky is too short. :rolleyes:
Correct me if I am wrong on this, but the real crime here is that even after IBM introduced the 101-key layout with the PS/2, manufacturers continued to copy the BAE and 1u Backspace of the AT *coughalpscough*. >:D
Diamonds in the (very) roughShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/5vpbLJa.jpg)
Could you link me the lube you found?Diamonds in the (very) roughShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/5vpbLJa.jpg)
Same here. Hope yours come out well too! Need to get that Dupont lube and I should be ready for reassembly.
Could you link me the lube you found?
Fujitsu Peerless is just as worthless as rubber domes.
Some people REALLY like them. Personally I find them disappointing though, especially considering how good other Fujitsu switches are.Fujitsu Peerless is just as worthless as rubber domes.
I know, but at least its different and interesting.
SKCM Black feel really weird. They have an audible but soft "click" and it feels like there's 2 bumps, they sound like they were "half click modded" like Chyros demonstrated.
I think I'll solder all of these switches under the print screen, scroll lock, and pause/break key so I have a little tester built into the board. Definitely going to invest in some SKCM orange to replace the alphas. If I collect some more switches I'll replace the nav cluster as well.
Some people REALLY like them. Personally I find them disappointing though, especially considering how good other Fujitsu switches are.Fujitsu Peerless is just as worthless as rubber domes.
I know, but at least its different and interesting.
Got Wingpads switches today.
SKCM Orange feel lovely, very smooth and the tactility is sharp but feels less harsh than the Matias QC.
SKCM Black feel really weird. They have an audible but soft "click" and it feels like there's 2 bumps, they sound like they were "half click modded" like Chyros demonstrated.
Dampened Cream: They're like stiffer Matias QC but a little louder and less mushy feeling.
I think I'll solder all of these switches under the print screen, scroll lock, and pause/break key so I have a little tester built into the board. Definitely going to invest in some SKCM orange to replace the alphas. If I collect some more switches I'll replace the nav cluster as well.
I still may not actually get around to doing it for a month, but I got a great Northgate 101 on ebay with like new complicated white Alps, and I am going to upgrade them. I have had soldering problems with Northgates several times in the past, so now, with Mr Bishop's great tool, I want to leave the switch bodies intact and in place and do whatever I am going to do from the top.I would just go with stock creams or click modded creams. nice tactilty, smooth, snappy and a cool sound. whats not to love?
What I want to achieve is a light action and quiet but distinctly tactile switch. I have enough good clean orange to do the whole thing, plus tons of others (black, white, cream (old Wang creams, not the dampened Apple type), and a few blues).
My thought now is to use orange, either straight-up or click-modded, and I will take them apart, clean them thoroughly, and lightly lube them before I install them into the new switch bodies. As I understand it, the orange springs are among the lightest available, already, and lubing them should make them seem even lighter.
So I am left with whether to mod the leaves. Tactility is supremely important to me, and noise is more of a minus than a plus, but I will gladly lived with less-than-ideal sound to optimize the feel.
Does this sound like a plan, and/or do you have other suggestions? I have never seriously modded Alps switches before.
I still may not actually get around to doing it for a month, but I got a great Northgate 101 on ebay with like new complicated white Alps, and I am going to upgrade them. I have had soldering problems with Northgates several times in the past, so now, with Mr Bishop's great tool, I want to leave the switch bodies intact and in place and do whatever I am going to do from the top.I'd advise against lubing Alps, especially when they're already in good condition. It's probably not worth it mate, they're great the way they are by default :) .
What I want to achieve is a light action and quiet but distinctly tactile switch. I have enough good clean orange to do the whole thing, plus tons of others (black, white, cream (old Wang creams, not the dampened Apple type), and a few blues).
My thought now is to use orange, either straight-up or click-modded, and I will take them apart, clean them thoroughly, and lightly lube them before I install them into the new switch bodies. As I understand it, the orange springs are among the lightest available, already, and lubing them should make them seem even lighter.
So I am left with whether to mod the leaves. Tactility is supremely important to me, and noise is more of a minus than a plus, but I will gladly lived with less-than-ideal sound to optimize the feel.
Does this sound like a plan, and/or do you have other suggestions? I have never seriously modded Alps switches before.
KBParadise V80 with Matias QCSKCM Black feel really weird. They have an audible but soft "click" and it feels like there's 2 bumps, they sound like they were "half click modded" like Chyros demonstrated.
Every SKCM (Bamboo) Black board I've played with has had that "problem;" I assure you those are stock, though.I think I'll solder all of these switches under the print screen, scroll lock, and pause/break key so I have a little tester built into the board. Definitely going to invest in some SKCM orange to replace the alphas. If I collect some more switches I'll replace the nav cluster as well.
That's a pretty good idea, I would put them there too since I never use those keys :thumb: Which board are you working on, again?
I just purchased a pretty cheap Focus FK-5001 (as well as a 2nd gen IBM PCjr keyboard that will be neat just to have) that appears to be in very good condition, as far as colouration goes. As someone prefers smaller keyboards, I find it delightfully excessive. :P
Hope the calculator works! Also, would a simple AT-PS/2 adapter be sufficient for the keyboard?
The PCjr keyboard is one of the worst keyboards of all time. I had one growing up. The ****ing wireless feature didn't even work. Jesus H Christ I still have nightmares about that thing. It's probably the reason I care so much about keyboard feel today.
If you ever have doubts about this hobby, try typing a few sentences on a PCjr keyboard. You'll probably immediately buy a Realforce with an artisan for each key just to cleanse your soul afterward.
Looks like someone pulled the buttons from a fridge.The PCjr keyboard is one of the worst keyboards of all time. I had one growing up. The ****ing wireless feature didn't even work. Jesus H Christ I still have nightmares about that thing. It's probably the reason I care so much about keyboard feel today.
If you ever have doubts about this hobby, try typing a few sentences on a PCjr keyboard. You'll probably immediately buy a Realforce with an artisan for each key just to cleanse your soul afterward.
Haha, thanks for the laugh. I am genuinely curious about how the PCjr keyboard feels though, I mean, it's just a rubber dome, how bad could it be?? :p
What kind of fridge has buttons? :PLooks like someone pulled the buttons from a fridge.The PCjr keyboard is one of the worst keyboards of all time. I had one growing up. The ****ing wireless feature didn't even work. Jesus H Christ I still have nightmares about that thing. It's probably the reason I care so much about keyboard feel today.
If you ever have doubts about this hobby, try typing a few sentences on a PCjr keyboard. You'll probably immediately buy a Realforce with an artisan for each key just to cleanse your soul afterward.
Haha, thanks for the laugh. I am genuinely curious about how the PCjr keyboard feels though, I mean, it's just a rubber dome, how bad could it be?? :p
What kind of fridge has buttons? :P
The PCjr keyboard is one of the worst keyboards of all time. I had one growing up. The ****ing wireless feature didn't even work. Jesus H Christ I still have nightmares about that thing. It's probably the reason I care so much about keyboard feel today.
If you ever have doubts about this hobby, try typing a few sentences on a PCjr keyboard. You'll probably immediately buy a Realforce with an artisan for each key just to cleanse your soul afterward.
Haha, thanks for the laugh. I am genuinely curious about how the PCjr keyboard feels though, I mean, it's just a rubber dome, how bad could it be?? :p
Just picked up this NOS keyboard off eBay with Blue Alps, they feel great! I like the inclusion of arrow keys, but its going to take some getting used to the backspace. Build quality is solid, and the plate/pcb combo almost give it a bouncy feeling. Its pretty amazing to me that it has just sat in a bag for 30 years.Ohhhh, NOS blue Alps. SO GOOOOOD. Great find, congrats! :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aDpdeWL.jpg)
More pictures:MoreYou can tell where it has yellowed where exposed to light. Incoming retrobright treatment?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/p39dOJX.jpg)
Nice finish on the plate with double-shots too!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EGfDGmw.jpg)
High quality connector.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MLHqzv6.jpg)
I checked the FCC ID and its from 1986 so the switches should fit the period.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EZVhjGg.jpg)
Can anyone tell me more about it, could I use something like Soarer's to remap some keys?
There seems to be nothing on the Copam K-430 except this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=60253.0) from a while ago.What kind of fridge has buttons? :P
Also, my Kenmore fridge has buttons :cool:
Just picked up this NOS keyboard off eBay with Blue Alps, they feel great! I like the inclusion of arrow keys, but its going to take some getting used to the backspace. Build quality is solid, and the plate/pcb combo almost give it a bouncy feeling. Its pretty amazing to me that it has just sat in a bag for 30 years.
Just picked up this NOS keyboard off eBay with Blue Alps, they feel great! I like the inclusion of arrow keys, but its going to take some getting used to the backspace. Build quality is solid, and the plate/pcb combo almost give it a bouncy feeling. Its pretty amazing to me that it has just sat in a bag for 30 years.
Ahh yeah, I saw this one on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-COPAM-K-430-KEYBOARD-NOS-CLICKY-IBM-PC-APPLE-BLUE-ALPS-SWITCH-KEYS-/182182795964?hash=item2a6af0dabc:g:6K8AAOSwsN9W~XQ3) a while back, but I wasn't really into the price they were asking for an 84 key.
To be fair though, Leading Edge DC-2014s were going for the same price or higher lately, so it's not a bad deal at all. Congrats!
Just picked up this NOS keyboard off eBay with Blue Alps, they feel great! I like the inclusion of arrow keys, but its going to take some getting used to the backspace. Build quality is solid, and the plate/pcb combo almost give it a bouncy feeling. Its pretty amazing to me that it has just sat in a bag for 30 years.
Ahh yeah, I saw this one on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-COPAM-K-430-KEYBOARD-NOS-CLICKY-IBM-PC-APPLE-BLUE-ALPS-SWITCH-KEYS-/182182795964?hash=item2a6af0dabc:g:6K8AAOSwsN9W~XQ3) a while back, but I wasn't really into the price they were asking for an 84 key.
To be fair though, Leading Edge DC-2014s were going for the same price or higher lately, so it's not a bad deal at all. Congrats!
Actually, that was the one I bought. I saw it sold for $180 to first time around, but I guess they didn't pay. Considering the condition my AEK with oranges was :'(, I didn't mind paying a small premium (and taking a risk) for a clean board. It was eventually relisted and I got a much better deal.
A big thanks to E3E and Chyros! Those videos and awesome projects are what really got me down this rabbit hole of Alps.
Could you link me the lube you found?
I have been experimenting with this lube (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCVXUVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), it seems to work reasonably well.
The reason people try dry lube on Alps is because the factory lube applied by Alps appears to be a dry one.Could you link me the lube you found?
I have been experimenting with this lube (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCVXUVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), it seems to work reasonably well.
There was a conversation a while back about wet vs. dry lube for Alps. Not to dig up old discussions, but are many people here using wet lubes, specifically on linears? I've been holding off lubing my SKCL Greens because they feel quite smooth after a thorough cleaning with no lube (aside from some wet lube on the springs to prevent ping) but now I'm curious if wet may be the way to go, and I need something to tinker with :P
Would wet or dry make a difference in terms of contamination in the switches? I suppose wet may have more of a tendency to retain contamination and possible attract it easier?
I was actually disappointed when my like new Japanese AEK with Orange Alps only sold for $70.
I thought I'd get more from it
There was a conversation a while back about wet vs. dry lube for Alps. Not to dig up old discussions, but are many people here using wet lubes, specifically on linears? I've been holding off lubing my SKCL Greens because they feel quite smooth after a thorough cleaning with no lube (aside from some wet lube on the springs to prevent ping) but now I'm curious if wet may be the way to go, and I need something to tinker with :P
Would wet or dry make a difference in terms of contamination in the switches? I suppose wet may have more of a tendency to retain contamination and possible attract it easier?
Actually, that was the one I bought. I saw it sold for $180 to first time around, but I guess they didn't pay. Considering the condition my AEK with oranges was :'(, I didn't mind paying a small premium (and taking a risk) for a clean board. It was eventually relisted and I got a much better deal.
A big thanks to E3E and Chyros! Those videos and awesome projects are what really got me down this rabbit hole of Alps.
I... I did a thing.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PZ0oxeP.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZvSztGN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/plNWioE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xFtyptH.jpg)
Question for everyone, whats your oldest board? Technically mine is my Multistation from 1984 but complete boards mine is my FK-3001 from 1989.Alps-based? My Pingmaster from 1984. My oldest board of all is the Fujitsu N860-8282 from 1979 with tactile magnetic reeds.
Question for everyone, whats your oldest board? Technically mine is my Multistation from 1984 but complete boards mine is my FK-3001 from 1989.
What's everyone's oldest board with complicated Alps?I have at least two from 1988, maybe even one from 1987, I need to check my spreadsheet at home xD .
I've tried a LOT of mechanical switches so far. Here are a couple I've come across:try blue alps and never go back to cherry
Cherry:
- Pretty much all of them except for modded blues
ALPS:
- Black, complicated & simplified whites, salmon/pink
Kailh blues
Fujistu Peerless
Futaba clicky and linear
Buckling Spring
Beam Spring (long time ago)
Topre 45g & 55g
Hi-Tek clicky (aka Space Invaders)
I'm most likely missing a few but that's all I can think of for now.
Out of all of them I'm at a tie between MX Greens, Simplified White ALPS, and the Space Invaders. I mostly use the greens since I can get it in a smaller format. Just waiting for a clicky matias tkl with PBT keycaps to come out and I'll hop on it.
You have one of those Bondwell's? Cool! Never knew that.Question for everyone, whats your oldest board? Technically mine is my Multistation from 1984 but complete boards mine is my FK-3001 from 1989.
Out of complete boards, probably the blue Alps FAME board I have, but it's impossible to date. Maybe the FK-555 Focus board as well. I have no idea what the date is on the NTC boards. Leading Edge and Acer are from 1989.
The Bondwell and some old typewriters I have are probably the oldest. All of these have linears. Bondwell 8T PRO has cream linear, the typewriters have greens and I think they span from 1984-1986. The typewriters have black switch contact plates in them as well, signifying that they were some of the oldest SKCLs.
What's everyone's oldest board with complicated Alps?
I totally derped when I originally typed this.
Any of you guys have any experience with SKCL yellow? ive been looking at zenith boards lately and I really want one, but I want to know what risk im taking if if I get yellow alps and not green.
I am forcing myself to love alps on a new level. Cleaning and restoring vintage alps clones.
Not sure what I'm going to do with them yet. But I'm not rebuilding the board.
I find it pretty surprising that AT101Ws continued to use complicated Alps after the introduction of the SKBM/SKBL series years prior and even after Alps ended their partnership with Forward.Considering the scope on which these keyboards were made I'm pretty sure Alps made an ENORMOUS batch of these for Silitek, I suspect millions or even tens of millions.
I am on the hunt for a board to transfer them into and I am looking for some creative suggestions.
I want something with a layout that's close to ANSI, no BAE or the like.
I am leaning towards a Northgate Omnikey currently but I am curious what other boards might be out there that I am not aware of.
An AT101W would be perfect if I could stomach the footprint of the Bigfoot.
Any of you guys have any experience with SKCL yellow? ive been looking at zenith boards lately and I really want one, but I want to know what risk im taking if if I get yellow alps and not green.
Any of you guys have any experience with SKCL yellow? ive been looking at zenith boards lately and I really want one, but I want to know what risk im taking if if I get yellow alps and not green.
I will echo fohat, my experience with omnikeys is very good. Even the avant prime I have is very solid even though it came with simplified alps. Im rebuilding mine with blue alps and a leeku pcb, ala e3e's ncr build. Hopefully someone will sell me a leeku sometime soon. Ive had an ad in classifeds for a few weeks.
What switch is this? Came off a sharp typewriter on ebay, has nice Alps mount DS caps. Was hoping for SKCL Greens coming from other Sharp's.Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ0MFg4MTA=/z/hnUAAOSwIgNXkko5/$_122.JPG?set_id=880000500F)Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTU3WDgxMQ==/z/ezQAAOSwsTxXkkpS/$_122.JPG?set_id=880000500F)
What switch is this? Came off a sharp typewriter on ebay, has nice Alps mount DS caps. Was hoping for SKCL Greens coming from other Sharp's.Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ0MFg4MTA=/z/hnUAAOSwIgNXkko5/$_122.JPG?set_id=880000500F)Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTU3WDgxMQ==/z/ezQAAOSwsTxXkkpS/$_122.JPG?set_id=880000500F)
Sleuthed for a little bit to find it, but it seems to be this:
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_semi-integrated_dome
Northgate Omnikeys are far and away the best full-size Alps boards. Nothing else is even close.
Dell AT101W is a very solid and well-made board that feels great to type on.
Get a black case and it looks a lot smaller sitting there on the desk.
I will echo fohat, my experience with omnikeys is very good. Even the avant prime I have is very solid even though it came with simplified alps. Im rebuilding mine with blue alps and a leeku pcb, ala e3e's ncr build. Hopefully someone will sell me a leeku sometime soon. Ive had an ad in classifeds for a few weeks.
The PCjr keyboard is one of the worst keyboards of all time. I had one growing up. The ****ing wireless feature didn't even work. Jesus H Christ I still have nightmares about that thing. It's probably the reason I care so much about keyboard feel today.
If you ever have doubts about this hobby, try typing a few sentences on a PCjr keyboard. You'll probably immediately buy a Realforce with an artisan for each key just to cleanse your soul afterward.
Haha, thanks for the laugh. I am genuinely curious about how the PCjr keyboard feels though, I mean, it's just a rubber dome, how bad could it be?? :p
Really bad.
The 2nd gen at least had normal keycaps, but if I remember right, the mechanism still felt just as ****ty
Northgate Omnikeys are far and away the best full-size Alps boards. Nothing else is even close.
Dell AT101W is a very solid and well-made board that feels great to type on.
Get a black case and it looks a lot smaller sitting there on the desk.I will echo fohat, my experience with omnikeys is very good. Even the avant prime I have is very solid even though it came with simplified alps. Im rebuilding mine with blue alps and a leeku pcb, ala e3e's ncr build. Hopefully someone will sell me a leeku sometime soon. Ive had an ad in classifeds for a few weeks.
Duly noted as far as the AT101W/Omnikey stuff goes. Speaking of the AT101W/Bigfoot and Leeku PCBs, I was thinking about posting an IC to make an Alps equivalent for the Bigfoot boards. I threw together a draft and I've been debating about posting it for a while:MoreAfter hearing about the Leeku PCBs and how they are compatible with widely available Cherry cases, I began thinking about how a similar concept could be implemented for Alps boards. The ubiquitous Bigfoot reference design came to mind, known by most as the sturdy Dell AT101W keyboard. If such a PCB could be made available, it would offer members of the keyboard community curious about Alps switches a chance to get up and running with a custom keyboard on the cheap. As such, the primary goal of this GB would be to design and produce a PCB that could be dropped into Bigfoot-series Alps keyboards. The secondary goal would be produce Bigfoot-compatible plates that would offer a wider variety of layout options. A tertiary goal could be to add support for SMK Alps-mount switches since the keyboards that utilize those switches are typically "flimsy" (at least relative to a Bigfoot). Adding support for MX-compatible switches would not be outside of realm of possibilities as well.
FAQ:
Q: Which firmware would these boards support?
A: The goal would be to use hasu's TMK firmware.
Q: What would have to be done to get one of these boards up and running?
A: Disassemble the Bigfoot keyboard to get the plate, Attach all of the (new/old) switches to the plate, Solder in the diodes then the switches, Program the MCU, ???, Profit
Q: Why are you qualified to work on this project?
A: I am educated as a Computer Engineer which means I have experience working with PCB design tools and micro-controllers. I am by no means a professional but I am not an amateur, either.
Q: Do you have any schematics, designs, price estimates or the like?
A: Nope, this IC is simply to check if there would be any interest in this sort of thing in the first place. If it is able to garner enough interest, those things will begin to flow in.
Q: What is "enough" interest?
A: I am going to play it by ear.
but I worry people will have a hard time dissecting Bigfoot PCBs with folded-over switches.
I totally forgot how much of a pain in the rear those folded-over leads were. When I swapped Matias QC's into a Dell AT101W (a board that I later tried to sell but gave up and just gave it to my dad instead) almost everyone of the leads were folded-over.but I worry people will have a hard time dissecting Bigfoot PCBs with folded-over switches.
I have de-soldered them with as few as half a dozen bent over, and/or, most recently, EVERY SINGLE ONE!
OTOH, if you intend to discard the stock switches, you could just split it off with a bandsaw.That being said, this is brilliant.
I totally forgot how much of a pain in the rear those folded-over leads were. When I swapped Matias QC's into a Dell AT101W (a board that I later tried to sell but gave up and just gave it to my dad instead) almost everyone of the leads were folded-over.but I worry people will have a hard time dissecting Bigfoot PCBs with folded-over switches.
I have de-soldered them with as few as half a dozen bent over, and/or, most recently, EVERY SINGLE ONE!OTOH, if you intend to discard the stock switches, you could just split it off with a bandsaw.That being said, this is brilliant.
Are you using it straight or with a converter?The PCjr keyboard is one of the worst keyboards of all time. I had one growing up. The ****ing wireless feature didn't even work. Jesus H Christ I still have nightmares about that thing. It's probably the reason I care so much about keyboard feel today.
If you ever have doubts about this hobby, try typing a few sentences on a PCjr keyboard. You'll probably immediately buy a Realforce with an artisan for each key just to cleanse your soul afterward.
Haha, thanks for the laugh. I am genuinely curious about how the PCjr keyboard feels though, I mean, it's just a rubber dome, how bad could it be?? :p
Really bad.
The 2nd gen at least had normal keycaps, but if I remember right, the mechanism still felt just as ****ty
OK, yup, you are right, dear lord. :-X
Anyhow, I also got my FK-5001, the calculator works when plugged in so yay. However, the keyboard itself doesn't, despite being set on AT-mode. The lock lights flash every few seconds as well. Does anyone know what may be going on here?
Definitely don’t use your soldering iron to unbend leads.Thanks! I will definitely have to try this next time I am working on bent-over leads!
Steps I use and find highly effective:
1. Remove what solder you can from a number of switches (could be the whole board’s worth, or just a batch at a time) using a desoldering iron or a soldapullt
2. Touch the bent-over lead with the soldering iron (to get some heat to it) for a second or two while gently prying upward with a dental pick or other sturdy but pointy metal object. The lead should fairly easily “pop” free of whatever lingering solder is holding it to the pad/hole under the combination of light pressure plus heat. Unstick every lead in your batch.
3. Use some fine snipe nose pliers to unbend each lead, so it is approximately straight.
4. Once you have desoldered and unbent all the leads on the whole board, unscrew any screws and remove the PCB from all the switches, which will now be clipped into a bare plate.
5. (For Alps switches at least) Carefully push in the plastic tabs holding each switch into the plate to remove the switch without snapping the tabs off. If you do this carefully you’ll break almost none of the tabs.
Once you get the hang of this, it only takes about twice as long as a regular desoldering job.
* * *
If you don’t like desoldering bent-over leads, make sure to never desolder the Alps plate spring switches from an IBM P70. 4 bent-over leads per switch, all stuck down hard to the pads.
Does anyone know whether stock tactile matias switches are supposed to be lubed?All of the stock switches I have received are lubed, I think they're supposed to be that way.
I recently got some and they are surprisingly smooth, and when I opened them I saw lube inside.
Are you using it straight or with a converter?The PCjr keyboard is one of the worst keyboards of all time. I had one growing up. The ****ing wireless feature didn't even work. Jesus H Christ I still have nightmares about that thing. It's probably the reason I care so much about keyboard feel today.
If you ever have doubts about this hobby, try typing a few sentences on a PCjr keyboard. You'll probably immediately buy a Realforce with an artisan for each key just to cleanse your soul afterward.
Haha, thanks for the laugh. I am genuinely curious about how the PCjr keyboard feels though, I mean, it's just a rubber dome, how bad could it be?? :p
Really bad.
The 2nd gen at least had normal keycaps, but if I remember right, the mechanism still felt just as ****ty
OK, yup, you are right, dear lord. :-X
Anyhow, I also got my FK-5001, the calculator works when plugged in so yay. However, the keyboard itself doesn't, despite being set on AT-mode. The lock lights flash every few seconds as well. Does anyone know what may be going on here?
Your port is probably not supplying enough power to the keyboard, so yeah, some kind of converter would probably help. Regardless, a good converter is worth the investment, they're easily among my best tools.Are you using it straight or with a converter?The PCjr keyboard is one of the worst keyboards of all time. I had one growing up. The ****ing wireless feature didn't even work. Jesus H Christ I still have nightmares about that thing. It's probably the reason I care so much about keyboard feel today.
If you ever have doubts about this hobby, try typing a few sentences on a PCjr keyboard. You'll probably immediately buy a Realforce with an artisan for each key just to cleanse your soul afterward.
Haha, thanks for the laugh. I am genuinely curious about how the PCjr keyboard feels though, I mean, it's just a rubber dome, how bad could it be?? :p
Really bad.
The 2nd gen at least had normal keycaps, but if I remember right, the mechanism still felt just as ****ty
OK, yup, you are right, dear lord. :-X
Anyhow, I also got my FK-5001, the calculator works when plugged in so yay. However, the keyboard itself doesn't, despite being set on AT-mode. The lock lights flash every few seconds as well. Does anyone know what may be going on here?
No converter, I suppose that's the issue here then? Guess I need to pick up a Soarer's or something..
Any of you guys have any experience with SKCL yellow? ive been looking at zenith boards lately and I really want one, but I want to know what risk im taking if if I get yellow alps and not green.
What's everyone's oldest board with complicated Alps?
Dammit, didnt win that Zenith 163-73 on ebay. That was going to be my SKCM Blue swap candidate since the guy with the Wang 725 bailed on me :( He hasn't responded and deleted his cl ad.**** man, I was bidding against you on that. sorry! I bid up to 55$, not sure what it went for.
Some other guy won for 64, I put in 63.Dammit, didnt win that Zenith 163-73 on ebay. That was going to be my SKCM Blue swap candidate since the guy with the Wang 725 bailed on me :( He hasn't responded and deleted his cl ad.**** man, I was bidding against you on that. sorry! I bid up to 55$, not sure what it went for.
us geekhackers need to communicate more about what were buying I guess. its a shame when youre bidding against someone else on here. if we do that, we can keep the prices low for everyone on the common stuffSome other guy won for 64, I put in 63.Dammit, didnt win that Zenith 163-73 on ebay. That was going to be my SKCM Blue swap candidate since the guy with the Wang 725 bailed on me :( He hasn't responded and deleted his cl ad.**** man, I was bidding against you on that. sorry! I bid up to 55$, not sure what it went for.
Yea, wonder who won it.us geekhackers need to communicate more about what were buying I guess. its a shame when youre bidding against someone else on here. if we do that, we can keep the prices low for everyone on the common stuffSome other guy won for 64, I put in 63.Dammit, didnt win that Zenith 163-73 on ebay. That was going to be my SKCM Blue swap candidate since the guy with the Wang 725 bailed on me :( He hasn't responded and deleted his cl ad.**** man, I was bidding against you on that. sorry! I bid up to 55$, not sure what it went for.
So now I need a board and idk what to pick.
Right now its
ZKB-2/163-73
AEKII
Omnikey 101 ANSI
Wang 725
They all have have nice caps and an ansi layout and are built well. The AEKII is cheapest by far but isnt as special. Plus I had one previously.
Any other suggestions/thoughts ?
You can just turn off the buzzer for it, lol having two audible feedback's :PSo now I need a board and idk what to pick.
Right now its
ZKB-2/163-73
AEKII
Omnikey 101 ANSI
Wang 725
They all have have nice caps and an ansi layout and are built well. The AEKII is cheapest by far but isnt as special. Plus I had one previously.
Any other suggestions/thoughts ?
I am in the same boat, leaning towards an Omnikey currently. If I could find a Wang it would be ideal but one of those probably won't pop up for a while. I have a Zenith 163-73's (like the one that went at auction) and putting in SKCM Blues with the speaker might be a little strange. As far as that one goes, I will probably keep it stock since I kind of like the Speaker + SKCL combination. sighs If I don't find something soon I'll probably start looking into building something from scratch.
It's a bummer the Wang guy bailed on you...
Ok, so I am going to go for this AEK I http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-extended-Keyboard-ADB-/222193387717?I've been eyeing that one for a while, it seemed like a good deal to me. I hope it works out for you 😊
Looks older and its not nearly as common as the AEKII. Should be a good candidate. Plus he already got all the caps off for me Shipping is expensive but I messaged him about it.
Ok, so I am going to go for this AEK I http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-extended-Keyboard-ADB-/222193387717?Ill buy the oranges out of that after you strip it if you want to sell em
Looks older and its not nearly as common as the AEKII. Should be a good candidate. Plus he already got all the caps off for me :P Shipping is expensive but I messaged him about it.
Looks like a nice board. Although those orange switches in it might be fine and make you reluctant to do the switch :)Lol my SGI Granite is swapped with SKCM Oranges from a AEK :))
As for me, I decided to stick my blues into Omnikey 101. Seems like the most logical candidate, being in such high regard, but having "only" SKCM White.
Sure, was going to anyway.Ok, so I am going to go for this AEK I http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-extended-Keyboard-ADB-/222193387717?Ill buy the oranges out of that after you strip it if you want to sell em
Looks older and its not nearly as common as the AEKII. Should be a good candidate. Plus he already got all the caps off for me :P Shipping is expensive but I messaged him about it.
Doing a bunch of wiki updating. SKCL Amber, SKCL Brown Lock and Wang 725's can come with SKCM Cream like the NeXT! :eek:skcm cream seems like its lubed though, so shouldnt it be first gen as well? is it possible it was produced alongside oranges or salmons? or am I just wrong.
It seems the tactile line is:
SKCM Brown < SKCM Orange < Salmon < Cream < Black
Not sure where SKCM Green fits in though, its a branch off I feel. The keyboard from the Magnavox Videowriter comes w/ SKCM Brown but there have been some reports of SKCM Orange in those as well so that validates in some way that part of the timeline.
Lol my SGI Granite is swapped with SKCM Oranges from a AEK :))
Doing a bunch of wiki updating. SKCL Amber, SKCL Brown Lock and Wang 725's can come with SKCM Cream like the NeXT! :eek:
It seems the tactile line is:
SKCM Brown < SKCM Orange < Salmon < Cream < Black
Not sure where SKCM Green fits in though, its a branch off I feel. The keyboard from the Magnavox Videowriter comes w/ SKCM Brown but there have been some reports of SKCM Orange in those as well so that validates in some way that part of the timeline.
Yeah that's the one Beardsmore suggests. The evidence he has for this so far is hair-thin, though. Besides, it appears to be fairly irrelevant, as there isn't a particular obvious difference between any of them that I know of other than oranges being slightly lighter. Creams are definitely first-gen though.Doing a bunch of wiki updating. SKCL Amber, SKCL Brown Lock and Wang 725's can come with SKCM Cream like the NeXT! :eek:
It seems the tactile line is:
SKCM Brown < SKCM Orange < Salmon < Cream < Black
Not sure where SKCM Green fits in though, its a branch off I feel. The keyboard from the Magnavox Videowriter comes w/ SKCM Brown but there have been some reports of SKCM Orange in those as well so that validates in some way that part of the timeline.
We have no way of truly knowing, but from what I've read in all my browsing amongst the forums is that there are separate chains for some of the switches.
What I've seen is:
____________________________________________
Alps SKCM Brown SKCM Green
_____________________________________________
SKCM Cream SKCM Black
_____________________________________________
SKCM Orange SKCM Salmon
Excuse the crude diagram, but I believe that SKCM Green and SKCM Salmon were the last NEW complicated Alps switch types.
Yeah that's the one Beardsmore suggests. The evidence he has for this so far is hair-thin, though. Besides, it appears to be fairly irrelevant, as there isn't a particular obvious difference between any of them that I know of other than oranges being slightly lighter. Creams are definitely first-gen though.
The wiki just got a sweet update :D
Changelog:
Created SKCL Amber
Added SKCL Brown Lock
Added SKCM Cream Picture
Added keyboards to SKCM Cream - NeXT and Wang 725
Added keyboards to SKCM Black - NeXT
Added SGI Button box to SKCL Grey
Plus a couple other small things
The NeXT Non-ADB really needs a wiki page, we know a lot about it.
edit https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCL/SKCM_series
I recently hosted the Seattle, WA keyboard meetup and found love at first site with a custom 60% Brown Alps board. It lured me in with Winter Alpine keyset, and upon sampling, I was in disbelief. How could a switch be so perfect?Well, the best 2 soucrces of brown alps are Ibm pc convertible 5140 keyboards and Magnavox videowriter boards. as for the 60% kit, you could contact hasu and see ig he still has any alps64 pcbs, and you can cut an at101w plate to size. welcome to the wonderful world of alps!
It was noticeably smooth, with an incredible bump that puts Zealios to shame. To top it all off, the weighting quite literally could not have been better for me. That board belonged to Merlin64, and I really hope he brings it to the next meetup, until then, I will be drooling over that board while simultaneously looking for enough Brown Alps to fill a 60%, as well as the rest of the kit...
Thanks. I found that out from Fohat. He PM'd me about a extra Wang 725 carcass he had and it had SKCM Creams! With SKCL Yellow for the lock lights. I do want to know the date on it for the wiki to better see how it fits into the timeline. It seems the Wang was around at just the right time to experience multiple generations of tactile Alps switches. From Orange, to Salmon, to Cream and to Black. Similar to the NeXT w/ early ones with Cream and later ones with Black.The wiki just got a sweet update :D
Changelog:
Created SKCL Amber
Added SKCL Brown Lock
Added SKCM Cream Picture
Added keyboards to SKCM Cream - NeXT and Wang 725
Added keyboards to SKCM Black - NeXT
Added SGI Button box to SKCL Grey
Plus a couple other small things
The NeXT Non-ADB really needs a wiki page, we know a lot about it.
edit https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCL/SKCM_series
Where did you find that SKCM Creams can be found in Wang 725s? That's really interesting. :)
Also! Very nice work on the wiki page editing and creation, man. :thumb:
Thanks. I found that out from Fohat. He PM'd me about a extra Wang 725 carcass he had and it had SKCM Creams! With SKCL Yellow for the lock lights. I do want to know the date on it for the wiki to better see how it fits into the timeline. It seems the Wang was around at just the right time to experience multiple generations of tactile Alps switches. From Orange, to Salmon, to Cream and to Black. Similar to the NeXT w/ early ones with Cream and later ones with Black.The wiki just got a sweet update :D
Changelog:
Created SKCL Amber
Added SKCL Brown Lock
Added SKCM Cream Picture
Added keyboards to SKCM Cream - NeXT and Wang 725
Added keyboards to SKCM Black - NeXT
Added SGI Button box to SKCL Grey
Plus a couple other small things
The NeXT Non-ADB really needs a wiki page, we know a lot about it.
edit https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCL/SKCM_series
Where did you find that SKCM Creams can be found in Wang 725s? That's really interesting. :)
Also! Very nice work on the wiki page editing and creation, man. :thumb:
My click modded greens feel best with thick abs doubeshots. with thin abs doubleshots(focus) they felt oddly hollow and strange. I stole my thick doubleshots from a sharp pc-7000 board and used focus rgb mods.Thanks. I found that out from Fohat. He PM'd me about a extra Wang 725 carcass he had and it had SKCM Creams! With SKCL Yellow for the lock lights. I do want to know the date on it for the wiki to better see how it fits into the timeline. It seems the Wang was around at just the right time to experience multiple generations of tactile Alps switches. From Orange, to Salmon, to Cream and to Black. Similar to the NeXT w/ early ones with Cream and later ones with Black.The wiki just got a sweet update :D
Changelog:
Created SKCL Amber
Added SKCL Brown Lock
Added SKCM Cream Picture
Added keyboards to SKCM Cream - NeXT and Wang 725
Added keyboards to SKCM Black - NeXT
Added SGI Button box to SKCL Grey
Plus a couple other small things
The NeXT Non-ADB really needs a wiki page, we know a lot about it.
edit https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCL/SKCM_series
Where did you find that SKCM Creams can be found in Wang 725s? That's really interesting. :)
Also! Very nice work on the wiki page editing and creation, man. :thumb:
It seems like the Wang 725 might just be the ultimate tactile Alps keyboard, since it can come with all of the "common line" tactile varieties. Too bad it's not very easy to find. Also, PBT, in my experience really offers the best feel for tactile switches, so it's geared well for the kinds of switches it has.
How do you guys feel about caps for the variety of switch types?
For linear Alps, I prefer ABS, as I think it has a nice warm feel that kind of "fits like a glove" when it comes to the smoothness of linears. Perhaps the more malleable nature of the plastic is what gives it that feel. It's airy, but warm.
For clickies like blue Alps, I personally enjoy either ABS or PBT, so long as the caps have a certain amount of quality. I hated Acer's caps with SKCM Blue. Doubleshots and PBT are great though. I don't think I've tried any doubleshot sets that have felt bad on SKCM Blue. It's just that weird thin ABS that comes with Acer boards that I do not like very much.
Even the pad printed caps from the Focus FK-555 felt better than those--I actually enjoyed them!
It seems like the Wang 725 might just be the ultimate tactile Alps keyboard, since it can come with all of the "common line" tactile varieties. Too bad it's not very easy to find. Also, PBT, in my experience really offers the best feel for tactile switches, so it's geared well for the kinds of switches it has.
How do you guys feel about caps for the variety of switch types?
For linear Alps, I prefer ABS, as I think it has a nice warm feel that kind of "fits like a glove" when it comes to the smoothness of linears. Perhaps the more malleable nature of the plastic is what gives it that feel. It's airy, but warm.
For clickies like blue Alps, I personally enjoy either ABS or PBT, so long as the caps have a certain amount of quality. I hated Acer's caps with SKCM Blue. Doubleshots and PBT are great though. I don't think I've tried any doubleshot sets that have felt bad on SKCM Blue. It's just that weird thin ABS that comes with Acer boards that I do not like very much.
Even the pad printed caps from the Focus FK-555 felt better than those--I actually enjoyed them!
Brown Alps are one of the things I'm hoping to get my hands on in the future, I've heard nothing but good things about them.They’re too stiff. You might find them interesting (I’m pretty uninspired, YMMV) but they’ll be a chore to type on.
I like stiffer switches, and I cant wait to try brown alps. they sound so good.Brown Alps are one of the things I'm hoping to get my hands on in the future, I've heard nothing but good things about them.They’re too stiff. You might find them interesting (I’m pretty uninspired, YMMV) but they’ll be a chore to type on.
The folks who most like them are 55g Topre fans, as they have a vaguely similar feel.
I've cleaned up my FK-5001 and spent some time trying to figure out what was wrong with it. After viewing this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78898.0), I tried hooking up the Focus to an old desktop via its PS/2 port and the keyboard actually worked just fine.I've had a similar issue with several PS/2 keyboards. When I enquired about it here, I was told that commonly PS/2 ports nowadays are actually emulated ports, not the same as the ports of old. They have power issues and don't expect to supply the same amount of power to keyboards or something. I've found that these boards run fine using a converter over USB, however.
Not sure what is going on here, may be the USB 3.0 ports (but my computer only has one out of three I think?) or a power supply issue as Chyros suggested; a Model M with an SDL-AT cable seemed to work fine though, oh well. :-X
Using ketchup as lube as shown in picture.lmao
sent from my chess board
This new app is pretty cool :)Nice, dude. Post it in the Prisma media thread.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oFvMqKf.jpg)
I was told that commonly PS/2 ports nowadays are actually emulated ports, not the same as the ports of old.
They have power issues and don't expect to supply the same amount of power to keyboards or something.
Ive never had any issue with my teensied f being able to get into the bios, but may e thats because my x79 board takes ~5 seconds to post. Soarer did a great job with bios support in his firmware though.
I was told that commonly PS/2 ports nowadays are actually emulated ports, not the same as the ports of old.
They have power issues and don't expect to supply the same amount of power to keyboards or something.
I use a crude "dual-boot system" where I actually have a separate Linux Mint hard drive (primary OS is Windows 10) and go to it in BIOS (aka UEFI, I am an old curmudgeon) on a moderate but decent 2-year-old ASRock motherboard with a single PS/2 port.
My primary keyboards are Model Fs running through Teensies, and they are not recognized early enough in the boot process to get me into BIOS and change the boot order.
So I have to keep a real PS/2 keyboard on hand to get me into the boot order dialog.
My primary keyboards are Model Fs running through Teensies, and they are not recognized early enough in the boot process to get me into BIOS and change the boot order.
1) Seems like KBParadise V60MTS is still the only Matias/ALPS 60% mass produced keyboard on the market? And the only 60% full custom keyboard with ALPS support was the Duck Eagle produced 2 years ago? There's also hasu's custom ALPS 60% PCB, but that's pretty much it when it comes to small custom ALPS keyboards?
1) Seems like KBParadise V60MTS is still the only Matias/ALPS 60% mass produced keyboard on the market? And the only 60% full custom keyboard with ALPS support was the Duck Eagle produced 2 years ago? There's also hasu's custom ALPS 60% PCB, but that's pretty much it when it comes to small custom ALPS keyboards?
2) Does the Matias Click and Quick Click switches have the same tactile feedback or one has greater/lesser? I just want to switch from linears (been using MX Reds for last 4 years) and i don't really like any switches Cherry, clones or Topre has to offer. If they both have the same tactile feedback, might as well get the Click one for a chance of having auditory feedback as well - provided they don't sound anything like MX Blues/Greens or Whites.
3) Are there still no recent news on aftermarket PBT keycaps from Matias or anyone else? How hard and expensive would it be to get vintage PBT keyset for the modern standard 60% layout/bottom row?
4) About Tai Hao ALPS ABS double shots - have there been only 3 color schemes produced? Black with White legends, Dolch, Olivette? And they are made from ABS, right? I believe i saw some Tai Hao PBT DS on Massdrop, probably for the MX-type mount though.
If I was looking to try a new ALPS board, would a Matias or Fuhua give an older ALPS feel?
The keyboard meet i went to previously didn't have any alps on display, though there was one keychain with an Alps switch on it.
I'm kinda new when it comes to it, if i were to buy one as an entry what would you guys suggest?
Lowest cost to ownership into the ALPS club is an AT101W which can be yours for a measly twenty five dollars. (https://www.elecshopper.com/index.php/input-devices/keyboards/dell-at101w-keyboard.html) Black alps are probably the least liked ALPS variant and with good reason, but they're easy to mod into something nicer and you can cut up the plate later for a 60% when you're ready for blues ;D
If I was looking to try a new ALPS board, would a Matias or Fuhua give an older ALPS feel?No. They're both quite different from complicated Alps.
If you like smaller form factor you can try Apple's m0116. They usually have salmon but there are ones with oranges as well. Keep in mind you need a converter for it as well.
They're so ****ing good, especially when they're in great condition, most other tactile switches don't even come close :D .If you like smaller form factor you can try Apple's m0116. They usually have salmon but there are ones with oranges as well. Keep in mind you need a converter for it as well.
I just acquired an m0116 with orange Alps myself, and I must say they feel amazing.
They're so ****ing good, especially when they're in great condition, most other tactile switches don't even come close :D .If you like smaller form factor you can try Apple's m0116. They usually have salmon but there are ones with oranges as well. Keep in mind you need a converter for it as well.
I just acquired an m0116 with orange Alps myself, and I must say they feel amazing.
The other big favorite is SKCM Brown, but they are quite different from SKCM Orange.
I guess orange or salmon switches are what i'll be after. Will definitely look into getting a m0116. Thanks for the suggestions :Da neXt non adb board is a really nice choice as well if youre looking for tactile alps. There is a seller on ebay letting them go relatively cheap (~55$), so get one while you can. cream alps are nicer than both salmon and orange imo
Holy ****balls, browns are even HEAVIER than neon green? Oo They must be some of the stiffest Alps switches ever made then anoi? oOThey're so ****ing good, especially when they're in great condition, most other tactile switches don't even come close :D .If you like smaller form factor you can try Apple's m0116. They usually have salmon but there are ones with oranges as well. Keep in mind you need a converter for it as well.
I just acquired an m0116 with orange Alps myself, and I must say they feel amazing.
^ This.
Orange Alps are really nice. I'd say the Cream Alps in NeXT boards are practically tied with them. At that point it's whether or not you like the weight a pinch heavier (Cream) or lighter (Orange), as the feel is pretty much the same.
The other big favorite is SKCM Brown, but they are quite different from SKCM Orange. SKCM Green pine feel incredibly similar to those (but at a lighter weight), and SKCM Green bamboo feel unique all together, almost linear with a rounded "soft" kind of tactility which I really like.
Yeah, I'd recommend Orange or Cream too as a tactile switch to go for. The NeXT boards are the best supply of Creams for now.I built one, but I havent compiled tmk and flashed it yet.
Have you gotten a converter for your NeXT yet, mike?
Holy ****balls, browns are even HEAVIER than neon green? Oo They must be some of the stiffest Alps switches ever made then anoi? oO
Holy ****balls, browns are even HEAVIER than neon green? Oo They must be some of the stiffest Alps switches ever made then anoi? oO
Holy ****balls, browns are even HEAVIER than neon green? Oo They must be some of the stiffest Alps switches ever made then anoi? oO
Yeah, that is perhaps the only thing about SKCM Browns that I'm not sure I care for. I think I'd like SKCM Greens/Neon Greens/Limes/Mountain Dew? quite a bit. That said, it's still my favorite tactile Alps switch, with SKCM Oranges being a very close runner-up for its own distinct tactility and light feel.
Beautiful boards guys<drools>
I am currently typing on AT101W which I loooove (tested some MX boards and really don't like them as much).
Recently my collegue bought Monterey board with white alps (we thought it will have monterey switches, but it turned out for the better) and boy do I want me some of these as well :P
Sifo...i must say that want level is high within me right now...ALPS mini board....mmmm...
Only problem i see with ALPS boards is the lack of novelty caps, or rather really small amount compared to MX and Topre. But I will wait patiently and maybe one day some will show up :)
Beautiful boards guys<drools>
I am currently typing on AT101W which I loooove (tested some MX boards and really don't like them as much).
Recently my collegue bought Monterey board with white alps (we thought it will have monterey switches, but it turned out for the better) and boy do I want me some of these as well :P
Sifo...i must say that want level is high within me right now...ALPS mini board....mmmm...
Only problem i see with ALPS boards is the lack of novelty caps, or rather really small amount compared to MX and Topre. But I will wait patiently and maybe one day some will show up :)
I'm working on making some stuff for Alps. Far too little selection, in my opinion.
I know there are some esoteric Alps switches like the double action and heavy grey that are heavier, but none that will show up on a whole board like SKCM brown.
Shame SKCM Greens are as rare as they are; if Matias made tactile switches like those or Browns I'd buy them in a heartbeat.I know, right? I would buy them in a heartbeat as well. I wonder how a Matias "Neon Green" switch would feel without the complicated switch plate. If he got the tactile plate's shape right would that be enough?
Aren't those compact SKCL greens and regular SKCM browns on 5140?
I know there are some esoteric Alps switches like the double action and heavy grey that are heavier, but none that will show up on a whole board like SKCM brown.Last I checked that guy on Alibaba is still selling NOS SKCL Grey (for way too much, unfortunately) and it seems like he has quite a few. In other words, someone might build a board of SKCL Heavy Greys yet.
EDIT: It looks like they're gone, sadly. I wonder if someone bought them or if he just decided to take them down...Shame SKCM Greens are as rare as they are; if Matias made tactile switches like those or Browns I'd buy them in a heartbeat.I know, right? I would buy them in a heartbeat as well. I wonder how a Matias "Neon Green" switch would feel without the complicated switch plate. If he got the tactile plate's shape right would that be enough?
Anyway, I got to try a 5140 a while ago and I have been on the hunt to try/obtain SKCM Greens since.
Aren't those compact SKCL greens and regular SKCM browns on 5140?Yes, to clarify I liked the way the browns felt but they were a bit too stiff for me so I have been trying to find a board with SKCM Greens since.
Well, if tactile leaves would fit into SKCM housings, then you could easily turn SKCM Salmon or White or even Black into SKCM "Pseudo Green" switches, haha. So as long as Matias were to design a switch around the unique tactile leaf shape, then I think that'd be all we'd need.Matias, if you're reading this, you should try and this happen :p
SKCL Heavy Grey is actually a different switch from SKCL Grey, which is a space bar switch. I forget what SKCL Grey is rated at for actuation force, but heavy grey is at 120 gf.Interesting, I didn't know there was an even heavier alps switch. Dang... 120gf is hefty.
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCL_Heavy_Grey
It'd be pretty cool to build an entire board with normal greys though.
Edit: Wiki says grey is at around 90 gf. Still a hefty switch.
Does Matias have a suggestion box or something? I'm just one person, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt. :PYea, he's still a small company. A Matias SKCM Brown/Green would be really cool.
Still, I wonder if he'd be willing to even consider something like that. Seems like he's been having trouble trying to get his 60% keyboard and PBT key caps out the door too.
They're so ****ing good, especially when they're in great condition, most other tactile switches don't even come close :D .If you like smaller form factor you can try Apple's m0116. They usually have salmon but there are ones with oranges as well. Keep in mind you need a converter for it as well.
I just acquired an m0116 with orange Alps myself, and I must say they feel amazing.
Matias definitely has the capability to make almost anything. Though they'll never sound as nice as original ALPS unfortunately.I suspect it's the translucent plastic. Unlike other clones, Matias actually tried to at least mildly update the design for modern expectations. This comes at the cost of sound, I guess.
Seriously, Matias sound awful, theres a lot of clones that feel worse but most don't have the rattly high pitched sound Matias do, still better than Cherry imo though.
SGI or Dell AT101 PBT. What has the better legends? :blank:
Agreed with E3E. I really like Orange SKCM and Cream SKCM as well as Matias Quiet. I like the Matias switches but they don't feel as good as the vintage SKCM stuff.
Agreed with E3E. I really like Orange SKCM and Cream SKCM as well as Matias Quiet. I like the Matias switches but they don't feel as good as the vintage SKCM stuff.
i have some vintage Alps clones i need to test against my Matias Quiet clicks. man those vintage ones feel nice. (after i washed them and cleaned them)
Agreed with E3E. I really like Orange SKCM and Cream SKCM as well as Matias Quiet. I like the Matias switches but they don't feel as good as the vintage SKCM stuff.
i have some vintage Alps clones i need to test against my Matias Quiet clicks. man those vintage ones feel nice. (after i washed them and cleaned them)
The clones are actually quite good compared to what I've tried from Matias so far. The Tai Hao APC white switches actually feel a whole lot better.
SGI or Dell AT101 PBT. What has the better legends? :blank:The Dell IMO. I don't like italic fonts on keycaps. The SGI's are nowhere near as repulsive as those on old Apple boards, though.
Finally, an opinion chyros and I differ on. I really like sgi caps, for the same reason I like the older apple caps, the funky font!SGI or Dell AT101 PBT. What has the better legends? :blank:The Dell IMO. I don't like italic fonts on keycaps. The SGI's are nowhere near as repulsive as those on old Apple boards, though.
:))Finally, an opinion chyros and I differ on. I really like sgi caps, for the same reason I like the older apple caps, the funky font!SGI or Dell AT101 PBT. What has the better legends? :blank:The Dell IMO. I don't like italic fonts on keycaps. The SGI's are nowhere near as repulsive as those on old Apple boards, though.
I'm using this ****ty DC-3014 with blue alps, this board sucks..Ill take it off your hands if you hate it so much :))Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zqs423A.jpg)
Finally, an opinion chyros and I differ on. I really like sgi caps, for the same reason I like the older apple caps, the funky font!SGI or Dell AT101 PBT. What has the better legends? :blank:The Dell IMO. I don't like italic fonts on keycaps. The SGI's are nowhere near as repulsive as those on old Apple boards, though.
I'm using this ****ty DC-3014 with blue alps, this board sucks..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zqs423A.jpg)
I'm using this ****ty DC-3014 with blue alps, this board sucks..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zqs423A.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5S2d6PV.jpg)
Yeah, I know what you mean, dude. ESPECIALLY with these ****ty PBT key caps.
I'm using this ****ty DC-3014 with blue alps, this board sucks..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zqs423A.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5S2d6PV.jpg)
Yeah, I know what you mean, dude. ESPECIALLY with these ****ty PBT key caps.
Whoa..nice ****ty board you got there! Yours really sucks!! :D
I'm using this ****ty DC-3014 with blue alps, this board sucks..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zqs423A.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5S2d6PV.jpg)
Yeah, I know what you mean, dude. ESPECIALLY with these ****ty PBT key caps.
Whoa..nice ****ty board you got there! Yours really sucks!! :D
You know my pain. :(Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z0WPlIg.jpg)
These are the worst keyboards ever.
Exactly! Just listen to that typing sound ffs, it's just awful.I'm using this ****ty DC-3014 with blue alps, this board sucks..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zqs423A.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5S2d6PV.jpg)
Yeah, I know what you mean, dude. ESPECIALLY with these ****ty PBT key caps.
Whoa..nice ****ty board you got there! Yours really sucks!! :D
You know my pain. :(Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z0WPlIg.jpg)
These are the worst keyboards ever.
How do you even get through your day knowing that you have type on those piles of trash?? You really need to save up and get a Corsair.
I'm using this ****ty DC-3014 with blue alps, this board sucks..Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zqs423A.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5S2d6PV.jpg)
Yeah, I know what you mean, dude. ESPECIALLY with these ****ty PBT key caps.
Whoa..nice ****ty board you got there! Yours really sucks!! :D
You know my pain. :(Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z0WPlIg.jpg)
These are the worst keyboards ever.
How do you even get through your day knowing that you have type on those piles of trash?? You really need to save up and get a Corsair.
Folks, not to backseat mod but can we please end this derail about bad keyboards? Let's get back on the thread topic here: our favorite switch, the mighty Cherry MX Brown.
Razer. Blackwidow. Chroma. ;)
is that not like putting supercar parts in a 1989 honda civic?Razer. Blackwidow. Chroma. ;)
For all the **** people give Razers, I enjoy my modded Tournament Edition. Vintage MX Blacks and thick, blank PBT caps make the Blackwidow Tournament Edition a rather pleasant typing experience. Why did I make such a thing? Well, I had two Razer boards from when I didn't care about quality and wanted to practice modding things :p
is that not like putting supercar parts in a 1989 honda civic?Razer. Blackwidow. Chroma. ;)
For all the **** people give Razers, I enjoy my modded Tournament Edition. Vintage MX Blacks and thick, blank PBT caps make the Blackwidow Tournament Edition a rather pleasant typing experience. Why did I make such a thing? Well, I had two Razer boards from when I didn't care about quality and wanted to practice modding things :p
is that not like putting supercar parts in a 1989 honda civic?I guess it could be likened as such although I have heard many complaints about the board itself, an issue that would persist even after changing the caps and switches. In my opinion, it feels sturdy but it's likely that I'm just an idiot... mostly for building it in the first place. I dubbed it "the Abomination" shortly after building it for a reason, haha. Thank goodness I didn't pay that much for the donor Wyse board ($5 from a local goodwill, score!!).
I would have just converted and used the wyse board lmaois that not like putting supercar parts in a 1989 honda civic?I guess it could be likened as such although I have heard many complaints about the board itself, an issue that would persist even after changing the caps and switches. In my opinion, it feels sturdy but it's likely that I'm just an idiot... mostly for building it in the first place. I dubbed it "the Abomination" shortly after building it. Thank goodness I didn't pay that much for the donor Wyse board ($5 from a local goodwill, score!!).
I would have just converted and used the wyse board lmaoThe Wyse board was rather beaten up and yellowed, in my defense. I don't think it was worth keeping together since cleaning it would have more effort than scrapping it, unfortunately.
You cherry guys have almost unlimited options to go Dr. Frankenstein and unleash your monsters to the unsuspecting public. There should be a special thread to pay tribute to such abominations/pets.Lol, I just have a predilection for Linear MX-compatible switches, for my tactile and clicky needs I turn to other sources. I am kind of scared as to what might turn up in such a thread. Shivers, I dare not imagine what horrors have been produced over the years. That being said, there have to be a few Alps "Abominations" too. I don't know of any examples but I am sure at least one exists.
speaking of alps abominations, somewhere on youtube there is a video of someone's linear modded skcm blues, what a waste.You cherry guys have almost unlimited options to go Dr. Frankenstein and unleash your monsters to the unsuspecting public. There should be a special thread to pay tribute to such abominations/pets.Lol, I just have a predilection for Linear MX-compatible switches, for my tactile and clicky needs I turn to other sources. I am kind of scared as to what might turn up in such a thread. Shivers, I dare not imagine what horrors have been produced over the years. That being said, there have to be a few Alps "Abominations" too. I don't know of any examples but I am sure at least one exists.
Definitely not. Pretty sure you could show your friends a 1989 Honda Civic and not be embarassed :p .is that not like putting supercar parts in a 1989 honda civic?Razer. Blackwidow. Chroma. ;)
For all the **** people give Razers, I enjoy my modded Tournament Edition. Vintage MX Blacks and thick, blank PBT caps make the Blackwidow Tournament Edition a rather pleasant typing experience. Why did I make such a thing? Well, I had two Razer boards from when I didn't care about quality and wanted to practice modding things :p
In all fairness, they still sound amazing. But the originals are just unsurpassed.
This guy, huh?
Hey, if it's all ya got and you want linears, why not? Just keep the leaves and you can transplant that feel to another switch, or at least a significant portion.
I found an AT101w locally and spent a few hours cleaning and modding it to be a linear board. After a few days of the parts drying, I put it together and although it felt much better than black alps, it didn't work :|Wait, what the hell did you clean it with?! xD
Haha, Top Gear did some great bits with them. I would rather have supercar parts in a Robin than the riced-out Civics people go nuts over.Definitely not. Pretty sure you could show your friends a 1989 Honda Civic and not be embarassed :p .is that not like putting supercar parts in a 1989 honda civic?Razer. Blackwidow. Chroma. ;)
For all the **** people give Razers, I enjoy my modded Tournament Edition. Vintage MX Blacks and thick, blank PBT caps make the Blackwidow Tournament Edition a rather pleasant typing experience. Why did I make such a thing? Well, I had two Razer boards from when I didn't care about quality and wanted to practice modding things :p
I think it's much better to liken it to a Reliant Robin :p .Show Image(http://pics.imcdb.org/0ge24/249820-Reliant_Robin_3.jpg)
In all fairness, they still sound amazing. But the originals are just unsurpassed.Morehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1x2XugT50Ds
This guy, huh?
Hey, if it's all ya got and you want linears, why not? Just keep the leaves and you can transplant that feel to another switch, or at least a significant portion.
That might also be the first ever mention of linear-modded Alps =o .I found an AT101w locally and spent a few hours cleaning and modding it to be a linear board. After a few days of the parts drying, I put it together and although it felt much better than black alps, it didn't work :|Wait, what the hell did you clean it with?! xD
I found an AT101w locally and spent a few hours cleaning and modding it to be a linear board. After a few days of the parts drying, I put it together and although it felt much better than black alps, it didn't work :|
Definitely not. Pretty sure you could show your friends a 1989 Honda Civic and not be embarassed :p .is that not like putting supercar parts in a 1989 honda civic?Razer. Blackwidow. Chroma. ;)
For all the **** people give Razers, I enjoy my modded Tournament Edition. Vintage MX Blacks and thick, blank PBT caps make the Blackwidow Tournament Edition a rather pleasant typing experience. Why did I make such a thing? Well, I had two Razer boards from when I didn't care about quality and wanted to practice modding things :p
I think it's much better to liken it to a Reliant Robin :p .Show Image(http://pics.imcdb.org/0ge24/249820-Reliant_Robin_3.jpg)In all fairness, they still sound amazing. But the originals are just unsurpassed.
This guy, huh?
Hey, if it's all ya got and you want linears, why not? Just keep the leaves and you can transplant that feel to another switch, or at least a significant portion.
That might also be the first ever mention of linear-modded Alps =o .
I don't know, I'm now convinced there is a noticeable difference in feel or smoothness of ANY linear or linearised Alps switches, so doing this on blues seems wasteful xD .Definitely not. Pretty sure you could show your friends a 1989 Honda Civic and not be embarassed :p .is that not like putting supercar parts in a 1989 honda civic?Razer. Blackwidow. Chroma. ;)
For all the **** people give Razers, I enjoy my modded Tournament Edition. Vintage MX Blacks and thick, blank PBT caps make the Blackwidow Tournament Edition a rather pleasant typing experience. Why did I make such a thing? Well, I had two Razer boards from when I didn't care about quality and wanted to practice modding things :p
I think it's much better to liken it to a Reliant Robin :p .Show Image(http://pics.imcdb.org/0ge24/249820-Reliant_Robin_3.jpg)In all fairness, they still sound amazing. But the originals are just unsurpassed.
This guy, huh?
Hey, if it's all ya got and you want linears, why not? Just keep the leaves and you can transplant that feel to another switch, or at least a significant portion.
That might also be the first ever mention of linear-modded Alps =o .
Why in the poop-stain would anyone remove the leaves from blues? I actually did your linear mod (chyros) to blacks on my Dell AT but on blues!?! :confused:
Why in the poop-stain would anyone remove the leaves from blues? I actually did your linear mod (chyros) to blacks on my Dell AT but on blues!?! :confused:
That sounds interesting. linearized cream damped switches? sounds like a better solution than matias quiet linears. I might have to try that.Why in the poop-stain would anyone remove the leaves from blues? I actually did your linear mod (chyros) to blacks on my Dell AT but on blues!?! :confused:
Probably out of straight up convenience. With the rest of the boards the guy has ($$), he could've sat and waited for a Zenith though.
I myself have far more blue Alps boards than I do linear Green Alps ones. I got my first batch of greens (NOS too) from a trade for some SKCM Blues. Then from some assembly work I did for a friend, along with some other goodies.
Lastly, from a Sharp typewriter, which is the only actual -thing- I bought with SKCL Greens. The one Zenith I bought had SKCL Yellows, haha.
That said, yeah, he could've just bought something like an AEK II and linearized them instead. I considered linearizing some blues myself, but ultimately figured it wasn't worth it.
is that not like putting supercar parts in a 1989 honda civic?Razer. Blackwidow. Chroma. ;)
For all the **** people give Razers, I enjoy my modded Tournament Edition. Vintage MX Blacks and thick, blank PBT caps make the Blackwidow Tournament Edition a rather pleasant typing experience. Why did I make such a thing? Well, I had two Razer boards from when I didn't care about quality and wanted to practice modding things :p
Hey man, I started with a Rapoo KX and souped it up much the same haha. I originally bought a mechanical keyboard as the last upgrade for my rig--originally wanting a wireless backlit board, but then seeing the KX and wondering what the mechanical hype was all about, bought it.
I ended up swapping in ergo clears at 62g with gold sprit springs, sip sockets, and an mx lock for the FN key.
The original Rapoo I bought got its stainless bezel powder coated black and, swapped to MX red at first, then Gateorn Clear, when the hype train for gats originally hit, sip socketed, lubed, stickered, and lock on the FN key.
Yeah, it was crazy spending that much time on the boards, but I say, if you dig something you have, why not show it some love?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vXbFrAD.jpg)
That said, I sold the black one, and kept the white one just to use as backup these days (the ergo'd one) and barely use it. I kind of miss the black one.
I remember a few months ago I bought a board from eBay that was brand new with Green Alps and PBT keys. I ended up swapping out the Greens and selling the board though because I didn't much like the layout. My Greens are now in a broken NeXT until I get them desoldered and I have a SHARP X68K with them too. Greens are more common in Japan in my experience.what board was it? green alps and pbt caps are intriguing.
I remember a few months ago I bought a board from eBay that was brand new with Green Alps and PBT keys. I ended up swapping out the Greens and selling the board though because I didn't much like the layout. My Greens are now in a broken NeXT until I get them desoldered and I have a SHARP X68K with them too. Greens are more common in Japan in my experience.what board was it? green alps and pbt caps are intriguing.
eww I can see why you didnt like the layout. Even I dont think I could get used to that.I remember a few months ago I bought a board from eBay that was brand new with Green Alps and PBT keys. I ended up swapping out the Greens and selling the board though because I didn't much like the layout. My Greens are now in a broken NeXT until I get them desoldered and I have a SHARP X68K with them too. Greens are more common in Japan in my experience.what board was it? green alps and pbt caps are intriguing.
Microterm 5510.
I found this for you guys.yeah, thats cindy from deskthority's store. instead of selling things by list, she made it all first come first serve. keep an eye out on there. she always finds cool stuff.
https://www.elecshopper.com/index.php/input-devices/keyboards.html?p=1
Missed out on the $150 SSK but whatever.
What do you guys think of the idea of just swapping my FK-3001 w/ SKCM Blue? Doesn't cost anything...
I found this for you guys.
https://www.elecshopper.com/index.php/input-devices/keyboards.html?p=1
Missed out on the $150 SSK but whatever.
What do you guys think of the idea of just swapping my FK-3001 w/ SKCM Blue? Doesn't cost anything...
I won't hurt it ;) Looks too damn good. That board overall came out the best out of any of my keyboard restorations. And ive done it, my Model M, My SGI and my old AEKII and my Compaq G80.What do you guys think of the idea of just swapping my FK-3001 w/ SKCM Blue? Doesn't cost anything...
Guess it wouldn't hurt, just don't hurt the board cause old Focus's are lovely.
I've been eyeing one of the Wyse terminal boards on there with green alps. Nubbinator looked at a while back (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56549.0). Pretty nice blue an beige doubleshots, but I wouldn't know what to do with that 10 pin connector :(
Im gonna be picking one up from wingpad, sans switches. Ill post pics and try and update you guys.I've been eyeing one of the Wyse terminal boards on there with green alps. Nubbinator looked at a while back (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56549.0). Pretty nice blue an beige doubleshots, but I wouldn't know what to do with that 10 pin connector :(
I wonder what the protocol is. It might take more work than it's worth. Not sure if that's blue on the caps though.
I used to want one of these but then lost interest.
I don't know why people think that Focus vintage keyboards are handsome. I think that they are kind of goofy-looking. If I didn't want to use an Omnikey, I would use a black Dell AT101W case and put pearl/pebble keys on it. In fact, I have done that, twice.Matter of taste, I guess :p . I genuinely think they look fantastic, so elegant and stylish.
It is a proprietary Wyse protocol and it is blue on the switches:I've been eyeing one of the Wyse terminal boards on there with green alps. Nubbinator looked at a while back (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56549.0). Pretty nice blue an beige doubleshots, but I wouldn't know what to do with that 10 pin connector :(
I wonder what the protocol is. It might take more work than it's worth. Not sure if that's blue on the caps though.
I used to want one of these but then lost interest.
I would use a black Dell AT101W case and put pearl/pebble keys on it. In fact, I have done that, twice.This, on the other hand, sounds interesting. Do you have any pictures?
It is a proprietary Wyse protocol and it is blue on the switches:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iumGrHe.jpg)
There are a bunch of pictures of the board Mike is getting here (http://imgur.com/a/Hs7qr).
All in all it's an interesting key board, just not my style.
I agree, but only for the early....foci? :) They are sleek and clean, with just enough of eccentricity with that strip on the top.
Later ones are simply too noisy, and bulky looking. Volvo could pull it off, but not Focus :) And the ones with the calculator......shudder!
On the caps? Yeah, that is really strange. Seeing just the legends alone, I would've never imagined that they were blue. Can you see the color vividly in person? Maybe better lighting there would help illustrate the color and contrast more clearly.It's hard to tell in person although that might be just because these caps are very yellowed :(
But the black FK-2001 is pretty amazing, to be honest.I'm SO ANGRY I let that one slip, I should've taken out a loan for it, I think I wouldn't've regretted it xD .
Does anyone know why an Alps switch wouldn't actuate?Have you tried a continuity test with a multimeter?
just tried this thing out, the feel on this thing!what keyboard is that if you don't mind me asking?
just tried this thing out, the feel on this thing!what keyboard is that if you don't mind me asking?
I still would like to try Monterey SMK Alps mount switches at some point, the impression I get of them is that they are better Alps switches than even SKCM Whites or later simplified clicky Alps/clones.
They are better than SKCM White but not Blue imo. The click and action isnt quite as deep/thick. Still good switches though. Wish they were more common. I don't think anyone has ever built a custom w/ them.Yeah, that's what I would say as well. They're excellent switches, with a few small design imperfections but they're so nice to use. THE go-to light clicky switches IMO.
just tried this thing out, the feel on this thing!Cool what switches does it have?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aX69GIe.jpg)
just tried this thing out, the feel on this thing!Cool what switches does it have?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aX69GIe.jpg)
My clicky switch preferences:
Blue Alps > SMK Blue > Gateron Green > White Alps > Cherry Blue
There's several I'm leaving off but I either don't remember them right now or don't remember how much I like them.
WATMy clicky switch preferences:
Blue Alps > SMK Blue > Gateron Green > White Alps > Cherry Blue
There's several I'm leaving off but I either don't remember them right now or don't remember how much I like them.
Model F BS > Cherry Blue >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Blue Alps
I just can't get into the Alps key caps. They don't feel very good. I've tried all the best ones.
I just can't get into the Alps key caps. They don't feel very good. I've tried all the best ones.
LIES!!!
false
I just can't get into the Alps key caps. They don't feel very good. I've tried all the best ones.
LIES!!!
false
false=truth
you're the reason I stick around :D
I just can't get into the Alps key caps. They don't feel very good. I've tried all the best ones.
petition to ban alienman from the alps appreciation thread
mike52787
Blaise170
_________
_________
:))
jk love you
Huhyeah I saw that too. NOS brown alps. I want em. I wont pay whatever hes asking though. if I remember right it was something like 1000$.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XMVEe2A.jpg)
The seller probably won't sell it separately though. Its all one bundle of 5140 stuff. Cool story behind it though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/162151324671
I just can't get into the Alps key caps. They don't feel very good. I've tried all the best ones.
On the topic of SMKs. Does anyone else think that the whites feel much worse than the blues?If your source for white SMK switches is an Apple IIGS keyboard, then the keycaps are preventing the switches from functioning properly.
On the topic of SMKs. Does anyone else think that the whites feel much worse than the blues?If your source for white SMK switches is an Apple IIGS keyboard, then the keycaps are preventing the switches from functioning properly.
On the topic of SMKs. Does anyone else think that the whites feel much worse than the blues? They are very very similar internally correct?You mean tactile white or clicky white?
On the topic of SMKs. Does anyone else think that the whites feel much worse than the blues? They are very very similar internally correct?You mean tactile white or clicky white?
The tactile and click leaves have quite different hooks to compensate for the loss of tactility inherent in Alps-style tactile leaves compared to their clicky counterparts. I only have an inverse-mount tactile SMK board but it's pretty good I'd say. Quite inconsistent though.On the topic of SMKs. Does anyone else think that the whites feel much worse than the blues? They are very very similar internally correct?You mean tactile white or clicky white?
Tactile ALPS style mount. Sorry for confusion.
waiting patiently for the review of those smks.The tactile and click leaves have quite different hooks to compensate for the loss of tactility inherent in Alps-style tactile leaves compared to their clicky counterparts. I only have an inverse-mount tactile SMK board but it's pretty good I'd say. Quite inconsistent though.On the topic of SMKs. Does anyone else think that the whites feel much worse than the blues? They are very very similar internally correct?You mean tactile white or clicky white?
Tactile ALPS style mount. Sorry for confusion.
It'll be a while, but it'll be there ;) .waiting patiently for the review of those smks.The tactile and click leaves have quite different hooks to compensate for the loss of tactility inherent in Alps-style tactile leaves compared to their clicky counterparts. I only have an inverse-mount tactile SMK board but it's pretty good I'd say. Quite inconsistent though.On the topic of SMKs. Does anyone else think that the whites feel much worse than the blues? They are very very similar internally correct?You mean tactile white or clicky white?
Tactile ALPS style mount. Sorry for confusion.
I just can't get into the Alps key caps. They don't feel very good. I've tried all the best ones.
The best ones are the wretched-looking ones on the old Apple AEK and AEK2. Nothing else comes close.
But they are butt-ugly and will not make a proper set.
Lack of top-shelf key caps is a major shortcoming of an otherwise excellent switch.
The biggest problem is that most of the legacy Alps keyboards have their own unique layout.
The biggest problem is that most of the legacy Alps keyboards have their own unique layout.
I bought a set of the modern "Dolch-esque" doubleshots a few months ago, and they are very nice, but the bottom row is not compatible with the common vintage boards like Dell, Northgate, and Focus. Is is very sad.
Does anyone have preferences on what type of ALPS switches are best used with stainless steel? Looking to build a Preonic with these thick ABS keys below but can't decide on which works best. I have a bunch of SKCM Blues, SKCM Browns, SKCM Ivories & SKCL Browns. Since it's my first ortholinear, I'm prioritizing key accuracy first with all keys being 1u. And it's portable so something quieter would be nice. And won't type for long stretches so a heavier but more accurate switch would be good. It looks to be a toss up between SKCM / SKCL Browns right now. Any suggestions? :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6cIYpXIm.jpg?1)
+1 those creams form NeXT's are so nice. So crisp and snappy. Much more than SKCM Orange but that might be down to condiction. Using mine right now. Same WPM as my Model M.Does anyone have preferences on what type of ALPS switches are best used with stainless steel? Looking to build a Preonic with these thick ABS keys below but can't decide on which works best. I have a bunch of SKCM Blues, SKCM Browns, SKCM Ivories & SKCL Browns. Since it's my first ortholinear, I'm prioritizing key accuracy first with all keys being 1u. And it's portable so something quieter would be nice. And won't type for long stretches so a heavier but more accurate switch would be good. It looks to be a toss up between SKCM / SKCL Browns right now. Any suggestions? :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6cIYpXIm.jpg?1)
Ivories from the NeXT keyboards?
I favor SKCL Brown over SKCM Brown. It's got a nice weighty press that isn't too heavy (imo), but with enough weight that you have to be deliberate in your presses. Its smooth nature is something that wins me over.
It's a fun and rocky road with SKCM Brown, but for pure typing experience and probably as someone who's more of a linear lover at heart, I favor SKCL Brown.
Note that I also use Cherry profile doubleshots with the brown linears, which give it a very unique feel on top of all of that, so that might lead to more bias. :P
I should also say that you aren't going to get much quiet from SKCM Brown. Thick key caps and linear switches will give you the quietest experience.
+1 those creams form NeXT's are so nice. So crisp and snappy. Much more than SKCM Orange but that might be down to condiction. Using mine right now. Same WPM as my Model M.
I know man, its perfect. The Wob ds caps are awesome too. Thicker than Tai Hao's. The aesthetic of the thing is great too. Small on my desk compared to my other battleships. The layout is pretty standard too. Still getting used to the ctrl key where caps usually is but other than that its pick up and go. Hasu will sell you one for $40. Pricey but it works great and is compact. Ordered a proper usb cable since right now i'm using a white usb cable from my phone.+1 those creams form NeXT's are so nice. So crisp and snappy. Much more than SKCM Orange but that might be down to condiction. Using mine right now. Same WPM as my Model M.
I just pulled out the NeXT again and, man, I really need to get a converter for it. It really is probably the most pleasant standard tactile switch out there, in my opinion. Not too light, not too heavy, and with a mellow tactility that's just right.
I also need to get a converter for those Docutechs too. Hasu posted about the protocol they most likely use in the Deskthority thread, but I have no idea what to do with that information.
https://deskthority.net/photos-f62/xerox-docutech-keyboards-and-restoration-t13229.html
Got the dupont lube in. Lubed a couple of SKCM Blues. They are better but still don't feel as clean and snappy as the couple perfect condition ones I have. I'll let them sit for a bit and see how they do. It had less of an effect on the SKCL Greens. There is something up with the top housing causing friction. Lubed the slider wells.You might also want to lube the contact and slider leaves, some keyboard companies were known to specifically lube those.
Got the dupont lube in. Lubed a couple of SKCM Blues. They are better but still don't feel as clean and snappy as the couple perfect condition ones I have. I'll let them sit for a bit and see how they do. It had less of an effect on the SKCL Greens. There is something up with the top housing causing friction. Lubed the slider wells.
You might also want to lube the contact and slider leaves, some keyboard companies were known to specifically lube those.
the vintage switches i cleaned by using hot dish soapy water mixing them careful several times during the several hour soak. rinsing then adding water again and some denture cleaning tabs (the ones that bubble) letting that soak over night then ricing the next day (about 24hrs later) they came out really clean and minty ;DYeah, that is the right way to clean them, But the discussion were on is lubing the first gen switches, which came pre-lubed from the factory. I cleaned my skcm blues the same way, but I let them air dry.
switches were completely disassembled i took the metal parts out before the water bath.
the vintage switches i cleaned by using hot dish soapy water mixing them careful several times during the several hour soak. rinsing then adding water again and some denture cleaning tabs (the ones that bubble) letting that soak over night then ricing the next day (about 24hrs later) they came out really clean and minty ;DYeah, that is the right way to clean them, But the discussion were on is lubing the first gen switches, which came pre-lubed from the factory. I cleaned my skcm blues the same way, but I let them air dry.
switches were completely disassembled i took the metal parts out before the water bath.
haha dont be sorry, you provided excellent advice as to how to clean switches. That way is perfect, and all you need to do for 2nd gen. Im not sure if lubing would affect the feel of later switches as much as the early ones.the vintage switches i cleaned by using hot dish soapy water mixing them careful several times during the several hour soak. rinsing then adding water again and some denture cleaning tabs (the ones that bubble) letting that soak over night then ricing the next day (about 24hrs later) they came out really clean and minty ;DYeah, that is the right way to clean them, But the discussion were on is lubing the first gen switches, which came pre-lubed from the factory. I cleaned my skcm blues the same way, but I let them air dry.
switches were completely disassembled i took the metal parts out before the water bath.
i'm so sorry, kinda jumped in with my experiences in cleaning with out reading the entire ongoing at the moment. however i'll be interested in the lubing aspects as well.
haha dont be sorry, you provided excellent advice as to how to clean switches. That way is perfect, and all you need to do for 2nd gen. Im not sure if lubing would affect the feel of later switches as much as the early ones.the vintage switches i cleaned by using hot dish soapy water mixing them careful several times during the several hour soak. rinsing then adding water again and some denture cleaning tabs (the ones that bubble) letting that soak over night then ricing the next day (about 24hrs later) they came out really clean and minty ;DYeah, that is the right way to clean them, But the discussion were on is lubing the first gen switches, which came pre-lubed from the factory. I cleaned my skcm blues the same way, but I let them air dry.
switches were completely disassembled i took the metal parts out before the water bath.
i'm so sorry, kinda jumped in with my experiences in cleaning with out reading the entire ongoing at the moment. however i'll be interested in the lubing aspects as well.
Hope this is a good place to ask, didnt wanna start another thread.
Grabbed an Apple 658-4081 IIgs to test the switches out and see if Id want to salvage for a build at some point. But I was wondering if with a converter if id even be able to test it out on a windows machine? Even if just the alphas work it'd be fine to test.
Hope this is a good place to ask, didnt wanna start another thread.
Grabbed an Apple 658-4081 IIgs to test the switches out and see if Id want to salvage for a build at some point. But I was wondering if with a converter if id even be able to test it out on a windows machine? Even if just the alphas work it'd be fine to test.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=14290.0
Hope this is a good place to ask, didnt wanna start another thread.
Grabbed an Apple 658-4081 IIgs to test the switches out and see if Id want to salvage for a build at some point. But I was wondering if with a converter if id even be able to test it out on a windows machine? Even if just the alphas work it'd be fine to test.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=14290.0
i can confirm it works as i did it with a IIgs. nice thing is that there is a hole in one of the rear feet where you can cut the teensy cable and feed it through then solder to the back of the ADB port on the pcb then you have a fully internal build without ruining the case etc. also, mine didn't have KRO so i sold it xD
Thank you, saw this earlier but assumed it was for mac. I'm a dumbass, carry on! :thumb:
Thanks, ill follow your advice. I already soaked the SKCM Blue shells originally since they were so bad. After few hours they are feeling good. :thumb: A couple have too much lube and need to be redone. I'll take apart my best result one and see where I lubed it so I have a method. I was experimenting where to put the lube for best results.Got the dupont lube in. Lubed a couple of SKCM Blues. They are better but still don't feel as clean and snappy as the couple perfect condition ones I have. I'll let them sit for a bit and see how they do. It had less of an effect on the SKCL Greens. There is something up with the top housing causing friction. Lubed the slider wells.You might also want to lube the contact and slider leaves, some keyboard companies were known to specifically lube those.
Based on my experience, here's what I can recommend:
- Soak the top housings and sliders in soapy water -or- use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean them
- Using a toothpick, clean the slots for the slider in the top housing. There is usually a lot of dust built up in them, even after soaking them. You'll want to scrape it away until they are smooth
- Using a brush, lightly brush lube on the tabs of the slider and the slots for the slider in the top housing
- Reassemble the switch, ensuring that the cutout on the slider is facing the switch plate and the two ridges on the top housing, exercising the usual caution when working on SKCM switches.
The switches are a bit mushy until you use them and/or they sit for a while, they begin to feel "regular" afterwards.
I don't know if it will help, but you can try cleaning the slider well walls with q-tips dipped in isopropanol as well.Been doing that. There's something up with those damn top housings. Maybe I can send a couple to Windpad for help lol.
Thats a cool board!I can send you a few good condition top housings from my click modded greens, I have the original housings lying around. The greens I used were immaculate to begon with.
So I got my method down for lubing my SKCM Blues. Lube slider and switch plate with dupont lube using a q tip. Lubing the click leaf or top housing dampens the click. After a couple of hours sitting they feel snappy and nice. Not quite as perfect as my couple perfect condicton Blues but plenty better than SKCM White. It is a bit slow going though. Still dunno what to do with the SKCL Greens. Anyone have a ton of linear top housings laying around? Lol.I don't know if it will help, but you can try cleaning the slider well walls with q-tips dipped in isopropanol as well.Been doing that. There's something up with those damn top housings. Maybe I can send a couple to Windpad for help lol.
Dayum son, I'm jealous, been wanting to give Ambers a go :D .
Dayum son, I'm jealous, been wanting to give Ambers a go :D .
Thanks! I'm not sure what to do yet, only enough switches for a 60% but I don't have a 60% pcb atm.. I need another one of these things for a full board, lol.
Digi, do you remember that one guy on reddit who had like three of these things and put his ambers in an AEK? Were you thinking of putting them into a custom or a vintage board?
We don't mention that word in this thread.Hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil!
no cherry?
We don't mention that word in this thread.Hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil!
no cherry?
(*@&#! is so good
Got this beauty in the mail today. Just need to get a cable for it.You have to tell me what that is, I want one!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160804/84f0a56da64fa5e9a48a22e60a7a0f2e.jpg)
sent from my chess board
$&@"# are more better and smoother and superior tactility for gaming than ALPS which are old and not designed for gaming!1NO RAZER IS BEST !!!1!11
Got this beauty in the mail today. Just need to get a cable for it.You have to tell me what that is, I want one!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160804/84f0a56da64fa5e9a48a22e60a7a0f2e.jpg)
sent from my chess board
Where did you get it? are there more?Got this beauty in the mail today. Just need to get a cable for it.You have to tell me what that is, I want one!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160804/84f0a56da64fa5e9a48a22e60a7a0f2e.jpg)
sent from my chess board
IDOL Japan Corp Model KB-SMK-97
mac white alps vintage.
so heavy. so good. got to find a cable quick i'm dieing to try it out for realz
$&@"# are more better and smoother and superior tactility for gaming than ALPS which are old and not designed for gaming!1NO RAZER IS BEST !!!1!11
Where did you get it? are there more?Got this beauty in the mail today. Just need to get a cable for it.You have to tell me what that is, I want one!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160804/84f0a56da64fa5e9a48a22e60a7a0f2e.jpg)
sent from my chess board
IDOL Japan Corp Model KB-SMK-97
mac white alps vintage.
so heavy. so good. got to find a cable quick i'm dieing to try it out for realz
Im not a fan of their anything$&@"# are more better and smoother and superior tactility for gaming than ALPS which are old and not designed for gaming!1NO RAZER IS BEST !!!1!11
razer is the best at marketing to gamers. i'll give them that. not a huge fan of their thin ABS caps or cherry clones.
alps are the sh*t! :thumb:hell yeah
on topic? :))
are alps the hippy switches that sing koombi-ya and smoke weed? :eek:
are alps the hippy switches that sing koombi-ya and smoke weed? :eek:
No, thats Topre ;o
are alps the hippy switches that sing koombi-ya and smoke weed? :eek:Alps are the curmudgeonly Comp. Sci. professor who always complains about how "they don't build them like they used to."
hell yeah
are alps the hippy switches that sing koombi-ya and smoke weed? :eek:Alps are the curmudgeonly Comp. Sci. professor who always complains about how "they don't build them like they used to."
folding @ home to cure cancer obviouslyhell yeah
Just want to say that you have the manliest avatar on GH period...what to do what all that CPU power!?
folding @ home to cure cancer obviouslyhell yeah
Just want to say that you have the manliest avatar on GH period...what to do what all that CPU power!?
Cherry are more better and smoother and superior tactility for gaming than ALPS which are old and not designed for gaming!
Cherry are more better and smoother and superior tactility for gaming than ALPS which are old and not designed for gaming!
i think this thread needs to be in a chat room not a forum LOLPetition to start an alps appreciation IRC
can I join ?you were talking **** about blue alps, but you sent me a 6011 so yeah :p
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
damn straighte3e can't have all the leeku alps fun!!can I join ?you were talking **** about blue alps, but you sent me a 6011 so yeah :p
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks man <3btw made a late night post office drop off since I had to ship four boxes. you should get that very soon my friend ^_^damn straighte3e can't have all the leeku alps fun!!can I join ?you were talking **** about blue alps, but you sent me a 6011 so yeah :p
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Does anyone have experience with FK-2001s made in the US? I've just discovered one.Ill have to look at mine when I get home
I didn't know they were made in the US, I thought they were only made in China and Taiwan (or was it Thailand?)
damn straightyou were talking **** about blue alps, but you sent me a 6011 so yeah :pe3e can't have all the leeku alps fun!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sweet man, I can't wait to see Mike put his Leeku Alps build together. Someone else has to do it!Haha I cant wait either. Im sure it will fit in the avant prime just fine, probably minimal modding needed. Im thinking of hotswap modding it, just in case I want to swap switches later on. Since Im already pouring so much money and time in it why not go the extra mile.
I hope it'll fit together in the Avant Prime chassis. :thumb:
btw made a late night post office drop off since I had to ship four boxes. you should get that very soon my friend ^_^Moredamn straighte3e can't have all the leeku alps fun!!can I join ?you were talking **** about blue alps, but you sent me a 6011 so yeah :p
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sweet man, I can't wait to see Mike put his Leeku Alps build together. Someone else has to do it!Haha I cant wait either. Im sure it will fit in the avant prime just fine, probably minimal modding needed. Im thinking of hotswap modding it, just in case I want to swap switches later on. Since Im already pouring so much money and time in it why not go the extra mile.
I hope it'll fit together in the Avant Prime chassis. :thumb:
shouldnt be too bad, the retaining clips on my blue alps are pretty ****ed up because the plate had been shifted down at one point apparently. And as for the BS is the BeSt I love capacitive bs, is that a crime? :)) :Dbtw made a late night post office drop off since I had to ship four boxes. you should get that very soon my friend ^_^Moredamn straighte3e can't have all the leeku alps fun!!can I join ?you were talking **** about blue alps, but you sent me a 6011 so yeah :p
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looking forward to my package too, looking forward to trying greens.Sweet man, I can't wait to see Mike put his Leeku Alps build together. Someone else has to do it!Haha I cant wait either. Im sure it will fit in the avant prime just fine, probably minimal modding needed. Im thinking of hotswap modding it, just in case I want to swap switches later on. Since Im already pouring so much money and time in it why not go the extra mile.
I hope it'll fit together in the Avant Prime chassis. :thumb:
Very ambitious! Is it be hard to unclip Alps even when hotswap modded? .
BTW, how has everyone in this thread let Mike get away with "BS is the BeSt" for this long?
Sweet man, I can't wait to see Mike put his Leeku Alps build together. Someone else has to do it!Haha I cant wait either. Im sure it will fit in the avant prime just fine, probably minimal modding needed. Im thinking of hotswap modding it, just in case I want to swap switches later on. Since Im already pouring so much money and time in it why not go the extra mile.
I hope it'll fit together in the Avant Prime chassis. :thumb:
shouldnt be too bad, the retaining clips on my blue alps are pretty ****ed up because the plate had been shifted down at one point apparently. And as for the BS is the BeSt I love capacitive bs, is that a crime? :)) :D
hold on, I just had a revelation. what is stopping me from just buying a cherry only leeku if Im gonna hot swap modshouldnt be too bad, the retaining clips on my blue alps are pretty ****ed up because the plate had been shifted down at one point apparently. And as for the BS is the BeSt I love capacitive bs, is that a crime? :)) :D
Once those tabs are loosened or broken off, it does make removing them a lot easier, but it will require quite a bit of wiggle work to remove them for the most part. It can be a real pain sometimes, but you truly cannot beat the convenience of replacing and changing out switches at will. :thumb:
I always have a huge grin on my face after swapping a switch. :)
Also.
Alps4lyfe
hold on, I just had a revelation. what is stopping me from just buying a cherry only leeku if Im gonna hot swap modshouldnt be too bad, the retaining clips on my blue alps are pretty ****ed up because the plate had been shifted down at one point apparently. And as for the BS is the BeSt I love capacitive bs, is that a crime? :)) :D
Once those tabs are loosened or broken off, it does make removing them a lot easier, but it will require quite a bit of wiggle work to remove them for the most part. It can be a real pain sometimes, but you truly cannot beat the convenience of replacing and changing out switches at will. :thumb:
I always have a huge grin on my face after swapping a switch. :)
Also.
Alps4lyfe
anyway? It would be alot more work, but it would be cheaper and easier to source.
Do you think the holes I would have to drill for the alps pins would affect any traces? Depending on how the board is made I may need to insulate the holes before inserting the sockets to advoid hitting the ground plane. would either of the cherry holes line up with one of the alps pins?hold on, I just had a revelation. what is stopping me from just buying a cherry only leeku if Im gonna hot swap modshouldnt be too bad, the retaining clips on my blue alps are pretty ****ed up because the plate had been shifted down at one point apparently. And as for the BS is the BeSt I love capacitive bs, is that a crime? :)) :D
Once those tabs are loosened or broken off, it does make removing them a lot easier, but it will require quite a bit of wiggle work to remove them for the most part. It can be a real pain sometimes, but you truly cannot beat the convenience of replacing and changing out switches at will. :thumb:
I always have a huge grin on my face after swapping a switch. :)
Also.
Alps4lyfe
anyway? It would be alot more work, but it would be cheaper and easier to source.
A hotswap mod with Cherry would actually be a lot easier and not nearly as hard as an Alps-based hot swap mod since you would not need to do any drilling; the sockets for Cherry MX fit right into the vias. There's no need to bore them out. Alps pins are wider, and so they require that additional space to actually fit.
By just buying a Cherry MX Leeku PCB, you'd side-step a lot of pain and misery and also risk and the frustration of trying to find the Alps compatible PCB, unused at that.
The biggest problem is that most of the legacy Alps keyboards have their own unique layout.
I bought a set of the modern "Dolch-esque" doubleshots a few months ago, and they are very nice, but the bottom row is not compatible with the common vintage boards like Dell, Northgate, and Focus. Is is very sad.
Do you think the holes I would have to drill for the alps pins would affect any traces? Depending on how the board is made I may need to insulate the holes before inserting the sockets to advoid hitting the ground plane. would either of the cherry holes line up with one of the alps pins?
Does anyone have experience with FK-2001s made in the US? I've just discovered one.
I didn't know they were made in the US, I thought they were only made in China and Taiwan (or was it Thailand?)
It's from 93' but I had one made in China from 95'!that used SKCM White. It's totally a gamble!My FK-3001 was made in mid-late 89 and has SKCM White, made in Taiwain. Must have just missed the cutoff for SKCM Blue.
The Focus is really a wheel of fortune but its a forgiving one. You either get SKCM Blue or OA2 clones, which are pretty good as far as clones go! Or those Omrons but I could not find any information on them.
ALPS is like the embodyment of the phrase "they don't build them like they used to"Yeah definitely xD . That's a perfect description in fact xD .
It's from 93' but I had one made in China from 95'!that used SKCM White. It's totally a gamble!My FK-3001 was made in mid-late 89 and has SKCM White, made in Taiwain. Must have just missed the cutoff for SKCM Blue.
The Focus is really a wheel of fortune but its a forgiving one. You either get SKCM Blue or OA2 clones, which are pretty good as far as clones go! Or those Omrons but I could not find any information on them.
Oh, I had one of those Omron Focus's, sold it to Chyros. Its the same one as in his FK-727 video in fact. They came on early pre 2001 boards like the FK 555, 727, 747 etc. Most of those have SKCM Blues but of course I ended up with the rare one lol. Made in 87.
Ooooh. Old focus boards. so delicious. This is the 2nd taobao board I received, but the first I ordered. Not sure how that works, but ok :)) It has some cool spherical-ish caps, but they are pad printed thick ABS. The legends are worn off on a few keys though unfortunately. Does anyone know how to remove pad printed legends? these could make cool spherical blanks.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aPLPLpI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lPJlGPm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/anQF59K.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oJsCWTa.jpg)
As for the irc, Ill be working on it sometime soon. Everyone is welcome :D
I'd like to see those spherical could-be blanks, good fellow. :)Here you go.
does it have cutouts for the 103 key layout? its normal ansi not split right shift right?Ooooh. Old focus boards. so delicious. This is the 2nd taobao board I received, but the first I ordered. Not sure how that works, but ok :)) It has some cool spherical-ish caps, but they are pad printed thick ABS. The legends are worn off on a few keys though unfortunately. Does anyone know how to remove pad printed legends? these could make cool spherical blanks.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aPLPLpI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lPJlGPm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/anQF59K.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oJsCWTa.jpg)
As for the irc, Ill be working on it sometime soon. Everyone is welcome :D
looks to be the same plate as the acer I gave you, but the one I sent doesn't have rust ^-^
But does it have cutouts where the winkeys should go?does it have cutouts for the 103 key layout? its normal ansi not split right shift right?Ooooh. Old focus boards. so delicious. This is the 2nd taobao board I received, but the first I ordered. Not sure how that works, but ok :)) It has some cool spherical-ish caps, but they are pad printed thick ABS. The legends are worn off on a few keys though unfortunately. Does anyone know how to remove pad printed legends? these could make cool spherical blanks.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aPLPLpI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lPJlGPm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/anQF59K.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oJsCWTa.jpg)
As for the irc, Ill be working on it sometime soon. Everyone is welcome :D
looks to be the same plate as the acer I gave you, but the one I sent doesn't have rust ^-^
ah didn't notice the shift. Yes it's normal ANSI WKL layout.
yessweet
Are you going to retrobrite them?Most likely, They are small enough I will probably just soak them in hydrogen peroxide instead of mixing up a paste.
They remind me of the profile Apple used for its AEK keyboards and the profile used for those old TI boards with SKCM Brown switches.
Well, after months of having the parts lying around in jars and boxes, I finally put together my Alps64 with SKCM Blues. It might have been more trouble than it was worth to be honest; I feel kinda gross thinking about it, haha.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/eV5Qhev.jpg)MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/29L9lKi.jpg)
Anyhow, my initial impression is that SKCM Blues are just OK in a smaller layout like this. As I suspected, the sound of the switches are highly dependent on the chassis they are mounted in, so they don't sound as rich in tone as they did when they were in my DC-2014. Now, I just need to take care of my SKCM Brown build and then I should be pretty happy for a while.
I have removed the legends from some of the semi-spherical/sculpted caps, and it worked well. now to clean and whiten them. its like 5 minutes of scrubbing with a q tip and brake fluid on each cap. fun. looks like I know what im doing for the next week.It's probably just the picture, but they look just like normal cyclindrical caps from here Oo .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/doNLjBZ.jpg)
Where did you get it? are there more?Got this beauty in the mail today. Just need to get a cable for it.You have to tell me what that is, I want one!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160804/84f0a56da64fa5e9a48a22e60a7a0f2e.jpg)
sent from my chess board
IDOL Japan Corp Model KB-SMK-97
mac white alps vintage.
so heavy. so good. got to find a cable quick i'm dieing to try it out for realz
Hey guys, I have a huge favor to ask. I have one of those 20 key Alps Clone numpads coming in the mail, and I would like to make it into a switch tester. I am looking for 1 of each type of SKCM/SKCL switch sans white and blue. Pm me if you can help with this, and we can talk money. I figured this would be a better place to post this than classifieds.Your not the first ;) I have been doing the same thing for many month's (almost a year?) with the same numpad and now just need SKCL Brown. I have some extra Matias Clicky, SKCM Orange, Salmon, Cream damp and some SKCL Green and Yellow I believe.
You are the reason I wanted to do it! I just couldnt remember if it was you or e3e that did it. I would love to have those switches. PM me so we can figure out a price and shipping.Hey guys, I have a huge favor to ask. I have one of those 20 key Alps Clone numpads coming in the mail, and I would like to make it into a switch tester. I am looking for 1 of each type of SKCM/SKCL switch sans white and blue. Pm me if you can help with this, and we can talk money. I figured this would be a better place to post this than classifieds.Your not the first ;) I have been doing the same thing for many month's (almost a year?) with the same numpad and now just need SKCL Brown. I have some extra Matias Clicky, SKCM Orange, Salmon, Cream damp and some SKCL Green and Yellow I believe.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/O7hfk9B.jpg)
The SKCM Blue restro is going well. Changed my method a bit to include lubing the part of the click leaf that comes into contact with the slider. Smoother and retains clickyness. Have done about 40 during my free time. I also found that lubing them and then leaving them overnight to let them sit and soak in a bit then lubing the slider again produces better results. The sliders are very parched so it takes some time for them. Housing and doing work on them using the metal plate from the IBM Multistation, makes for a good surface to work on that keeps them in place.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YMC6jRU.jpg)
*@&$#! beats alps 4:1
**** cherry*@&$#! beats alps 4:1
Reported!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd appreciate it if you appreciated some ambersShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q3fg4Fk.jpg)
I'd appreciate it if you appreciated some ambersId appreciate it if you would let me buy one of those from you for my switch tester projectShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q3fg4Fk.jpg)
I'd appreciate it if you appreciated some ambersId appreciate it if you would let me buy one of those from you for my switch tester projectShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q3fg4Fk.jpg)
Hey guys, I have a huge favor to ask. I have one of those 20 key Alps Clone numpads coming in the mail, and I would like to make it into a switch tester. I am looking for 1 of each type of SKCM/SKCL switch sans white and blue. Pm me if you can help with this, and we can talk money. I figured this would be a better place to post this than classifieds.
Damn my indecisiveness!Sorry to necro this but there was a 6085 on eBay? Darn. That's what I get for stepping away from the keyboard community for a week. And it went for only $129.00? Oh, woe is me.
There was a Xerox 6085 on eBay available, but someone got it. It has more switches than IBM 5140, and is a keyboard in its own right. However, IBM could be made to work relatively easy, and for Xerox it would either need to be hand-wired or "scrapped" for switches. I hate choices like this.
The SKCM Blue restro is going well. Changed my method a bit to include lubing the part of the click leaf that comes into contact with the slider. Smoother and retains clickyness. Have done about 40 during my free time. I also found that lubing them and then leaving them overnight to let them sit and soak in a bit then lubing the slider again produces better results. The sliders are very parched so it takes some time for them. Housing and doing work on them using the metal plate from the IBM Multistation, makes for a good surface to work on that keeps them in place.Interesting, I will have to try this when I get around to working on my switches again. I am glad to hear the restore is going well, though.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YMC6jRU.jpg)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)Hey guys, I have a huge favor to ask. I have one of those 20 key Alps Clone numpads coming in the mail, and I would like to make it into a switch tester. I am looking for 1 of each type of SKCM/SKCL switch sans white and blue. Pm me if you can help with this, and we can talk money. I figured this would be a better place to post this than classifieds.
what number pad is this? could you link me. i am trying a similar project but i want to make mine out of acrylic and noticed that you are getting one. it would save a lot of time :p
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)Hey guys, I have a huge favor to ask. I have one of those 20 key Alps Clone numpads coming in the mail, and I would like to make it into a switch tester. I am looking for 1 of each type of SKCM/SKCL switch sans white and blue. Pm me if you can help with this, and we can talk money. I figured this would be a better place to post this than classifieds.
what number pad is this? could you link me. i am trying a similar project but i want to make mine out of acrylic and noticed that you are getting one. it would save a lot of time :p
I can send a few blues your way once I get the lube in the mail and get them cleaned up.http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)Hey guys, I have a huge favor to ask. I have one of those 20 key Alps Clone numpads coming in the mail, and I would like to make it into a switch tester. I am looking for 1 of each type of SKCM/SKCL switch sans white and blue. Pm me if you can help with this, and we can talk money. I figured this would be a better place to post this than classifieds.
what number pad is this? could you link me. i am trying a similar project but i want to make mine out of acrylic and noticed that you are getting one. it would save a lot of time :p
thank you, going to buy one as soon as possible considering its free shipping!
step 2: desolder one switch from each of my keyboards :p (i might try to get a couple greens, blues, oranges and even ambers and make it layered instead of individual switches)
I can send a few blues your way once I get the lube in the mail and get them cleaned up.http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)Hey guys, I have a huge favor to ask. I have one of those 20 key Alps Clone numpads coming in the mail, and I would like to make it into a switch tester. I am looking for 1 of each type of SKCM/SKCL switch sans white and blue. Pm me if you can help with this, and we can talk money. I figured this would be a better place to post this than classifieds.
what number pad is this? could you link me. i am trying a similar project but i want to make mine out of acrylic and noticed that you are getting one. it would save a lot of time :p
thank you, going to buy one as soon as possible considering its free shipping!
step 2: desolder one switch from each of my keyboards :p (i might try to get a couple greens, blues, oranges and even ambers and make it layered instead of individual switches)
sure, Ill let you know when Im done with them.I can send a few blues your way once I get the lube in the mail and get them cleaned up.http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272305990001?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=571142535190&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)Hey guys, I have a huge favor to ask. I have one of those 20 key Alps Clone numpads coming in the mail, and I would like to make it into a switch tester. I am looking for 1 of each type of SKCM/SKCL switch sans white and blue. Pm me if you can help with this, and we can talk money. I figured this would be a better place to post this than classifieds.
what number pad is this? could you link me. i am trying a similar project but i want to make mine out of acrylic and noticed that you are getting one. it would save a lot of time :p
thank you, going to buy one as soon as possible considering its free shipping!
step 2: desolder one switch from each of my keyboards :p (i might try to get a couple greens, blues, oranges and even ambers and make it layered instead of individual switches)
that would be great thanks but the shipping would be around the same price as before. if the shipping is less it would be fine but would you mind throwing in a couple whites so that i can use them on the number pad too. then it would mean i'm getting my moneys worth of shipping. :p
Damn my indecisiveness!Sorry to necro this but there was a 6085 on eBay? Darn. That's what I get for stepping away from the keyboard community for a week. And it went for only $129.00? Oh, woe is me.
There was a Xerox 6085 on eBay available, but someone got it. It has more switches than IBM 5140, and is a keyboard in its own right. However, IBM could be made to work relatively easy, and for Xerox it would either need to be hand-wired or "scrapped" for switches. I hate choices like this.
Just skimed over bitsavers.org.
This keyboard looks very similar or identical to Xerox 6085 workstation keyboard. You can find tech references under here to make converter for it. http://www.mirrorservice.org/sites/www. ... erox/6085/
Seem like it spits out 3 bytes for keys and mouse on differential bus at 9600 baud.
Anybody got a at101w keycap set you could sell me?
I have bought a fake Model M at taobao recently, and it arrived yesterday.
At lease the blue alps is real
I have bought a fake Model M at taobao recently, and it arrived yesterday.
At lease the blue alps is real
Try to get it working and save the PCB if at all possible.
A true-ANSI blue alps keyboard is far more rare and desirable than a Model M, particularly in a solid case.
It is not a perfect solution, but I filled out an Alps-mount Tai-Hao Dolch set on a vintage Winkeyless board using a black 7.0x spacebar and blank black 1.5x bottom-row caps from Matias. It looks passably okay to me, because the color on the bottom row is consistent.
The biggest problem is that most of the legacy Alps keyboards have their own unique layout.
I bought a set of the modern "Dolch-esque" doubleshots a few months ago, and they are very nice, but the bottom row is not compatible with the common vintage boards like Dell, Northgate, and Focus. Is is very sad.
If youre planning on fixing up the board I can send you some of the caps youre missing.Hi guys,
I have bought a fake Model M at taobao recently, and it arrived yesterday.
At lease the blue alps is real :thumb: I will disassemble this board very soon.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/35w2icW.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ESTwXHl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hoJhrQz.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Tfd0fqk.jpg)
The label should be real.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vnsPTvF.jpg)
Interesting keycaps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xOvu5MO.jpg)
Only mark on the PCB.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/25uZYO9.jpg)
that's very cool. I would like one of those if I could find it
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is not a perfect solution, but I filled out an Alps-mount Tai-Hao Dolch set on a vintage Winkeyless board using a black 7.0x spacebar and blank black 1.5x bottom-row caps from Matias. It looks passably okay to me, because the color on the bottom row is consistent.
The biggest problem is that most of the legacy Alps keyboards have their own unique layout.
I bought a set of the modern "Dolch-esque" doubleshots a few months ago, and they are very nice, but the bottom row is not compatible with the common vintage boards like Dell, Northgate, and Focus. Is is very sad.
Do you guys think this is Alps? http://www.ebay.com/itm/291119068552Never seen any Alps thing that looks like that Oo . Could be, though.
Reminds me of the SGI Button Box, and that had LED'd SKCL Gray's.
Here is what the SGI looks likeDo you guys think this is Alps? http://www.ebay.com/itm/291119068552Never seen any Alps thing that looks like that Oo . Could be, though.
Reminds me of the SGI Button Box, and that had LED'd SKCL Gray's.
So the 7u spacebar does use Costar-style stabilizers? It sounds like you can use it with a plate that uses Alps-style stab inserts though, which is good..Yes, luckily it worked for me on the Omnikey 101. However, I have seen all sorts of variations on spacebar sizes and stabilizer schemes in Alps-switch keyboards -- sort of like a box of chocolates. ;)
where can I appreciate cherry?
Do you guys think this is Alps? http://www.ebay.com/itm/291119068552
Reminds me of the SGI Button Box, and that had LED'd SKCL Gray's.
So the 7u spacebar does use Costar-style stabilizers? It sounds like you can use it with a plate that uses Alps-style stab inserts though, which is good..Yes, luckily it worked for me on the Omnikey 101. However, I have seen all sorts of variations on spacebar sizes and stabilizer schemes in Alps-switch keyboards -- sort of like a box of chocolates. ;)
I have finally found something awesome today at the thrift store buried under a bunch of rubber domes!. SKCL Browns? ;D ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pZIV09O.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/q6aG4OH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pykhAaW.jpg)
I haven't cleaned the board or anything, it looks to be in a near perfect state, little to no yellowing and all of the switches feel fine, except for the numpad 4 key which feels like there is something jammed in it, but it still registers. It works too, plugged it into my Model M's AT>PS/2 adapter and then to my blue cube and voila!
It's also the oldest keyboard I own now, if I'm reading the label right it's from 1986 which makes it about a year older than my Model M.
I haven't tried any other linear ALPS to compare them to but they feel great, the only other linear switch I have tried were MX and Kailh reds, neither of which are as smooth as these.
My favorite thing about them so far is the sound, they are by far my favorite sounding switch, even more than my Model M or SKCM White.
Holy **** man :eek:
What a find. Is the spacebar switch also SKCL Brown?
edit: The label says gold star alps
I have finally found something awesome today at the thrift store buried under a bunch of rubber domes!. SKCL Browns? ;D ;DIt doesn't have to be from '86, the serial number might just end in that. Still, 1986 is actually a reasonable estimate for SKCL brown :) . Indeed, it was very much a Goldstar thing, so it makes sense this one is too.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pZIV09O.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/q6aG4OH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pykhAaW.jpg)
I haven't cleaned the board or anything, it looks to be in a near perfect state, little to no yellowing and all of the switches feel fine, except for the numpad 4 key which feels like there is something jammed in it, but it still registers. It works too, plugged it into my Model M's AT>PS/2 adapter and then to my blue cube and voila!
It's also the oldest keyboard I own now, if I'm reading the label right it's from 1986 which makes it about a year older than my Model M.
I'm going to keep it, I really like it and I was wanting a new Alps board. I take if you've tried them? How do they compare to the other linear Alps?Looking at the model number it should be SKCL Amber. KCLEA907L. I'm nominating this for find of the year lol.Holy **** man :eek:
What a find. Is the spacebar switch also SKCL Brown?
edit: The label says gold star alps
It could just be me but it feels stiffer than the other switches, I don't want to remove it because Alps stabs are a nightmare for me for some reason.
It could just be me but it feels stiffer than the other switches, I don't want to remove it because Alps stabs are a nightmare for me for some reason.
I'm going to keep it, I really like it and I was wanting a new Alps board. I take if you've tried them? How do they compare to the other linear Alps?Holy **** man :eek:
What a find. Is the spacebar switch also SKCL Brown?
edit: The label says gold star alps
It could just be me but it feels stiffer than the other switches, I don't want to remove it because Alps stabs are a nightmare for me for some reason.
Yea, thats what I do too. Also have a method for when those plastic tabs come out with the wire. Have to get them angled right to reseat them in the plate properly.
It could just be me but it feels stiffer than the other switches, I don't want to remove it because Alps stabs are a nightmare for me for some reason.
My preferred method is to seat the key on the switch with the wire dangling, then use a small flat-head screwdriver to gently seat the wire into the slot on the plastic tab. It is easier if you remove the surrounding keys to gain some working space.
With the space bar that may mean taking of the top case shell.
why can't all the cherry threads be this active?
I'm going to keep it, I really like it and I was wanting a new Alps board. I take if you've tried them? How do they compare to the other linear Alps?
Next time I get some nickels I'll do a proper weight test.
They are at least lighter than my Model M, so at most they're 70g.
I have finally found something awesome today at the thrift store buried under a bunch of rubber domes!. SKCL Browns? ;D ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pZIV09O.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/q6aG4OH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pykhAaW.jpg)
I haven't cleaned the board or anything, it looks to be in a near perfect state, little to no yellowing and all of the switches feel fine, except for the numpad 4 key which feels like there is something jammed in it, but it still registers. It works too, plugged it into my Model M's AT>PS/2 adapter and then to my blue cube and voila!
It's also the oldest keyboard I own now, if I'm reading the label right it's from 1986 which makes it about a year older than my Model M.
why can't all the cherry threads be this active?
Because cherry is so boring.
I don't dare ever open these switches up, but I wonder how they would feel and sound if you put a Matias or SKCM White click leaf in them.
I have finally found something awesome today at the thrift store buried under a bunch of rubber domes!. SKCL Browns? ;D ;D:eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pZIV09O.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/q6aG4OH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pykhAaW.jpg)
I haven't cleaned the board or anything, it looks to be in a near perfect state, little to no yellowing and all of the switches feel fine, except for the numpad 4 key which feels like there is something jammed in it, but it still registers. It works too, plugged it into my Model M's AT>PS/2 adapter and then to my blue cube and voila!
It's also the oldest keyboard I own now, if I'm reading the label right it's from 1986 which makes it about a year older than my Model M.
Once I get my hand on the other handful I need for my TKL, I'll give you one =)
I think these rival the "Pingmasters" holy crud.Haha, yeah, earlier SKCL/SKCM switches, especially SKCL green, are known for their pinginess xD . That said, SKCCs are on a whole different level, everytime I try my Pingmaster or especially the M0110A I'm surprised by how loud it is xD . Apparently the Pingsaver is pretty bad as well.
feature=youtu.be
Building my Alps64 in a few days, finally will be able to put these caps to good use(the alphas at least)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3nyp2JW.jpg)
Building my Alps64 in a few days, finally will be able to put these caps to good use(the alphas at least)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3nyp2JW.jpg)
Very cool. Which mods are you going to use?
Building my Alps64 in a few days, finally will be able to put these caps to good use(the alphas at least)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3nyp2JW.jpg)
very nice :D
OK, stupid question time. Are SKCM brown and SKCL brown in any way "related"? I mean, if you take out tactile leaf from SKCM Brown, would you get (near) SKCL Brown? :p Or are the springs and/or contact leaves completely different?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JNPfyg2.jpg)
time to buy :D
I'm going to keep it, I really like it and I was wanting a new Alps board. I take if you've tried them? How do they compare to the other linear Alps?
I forgot to comment on the comparison:
So I've pretty much tried and currently own all the major linear switches with Alps: Yellow, Cream, Brown and Green.
Green is the lightest. Very smooth, but very airy and light. I can see people wanting something a little bit heavier.
Yellow is a little bit heavier. It's around 5-10g heavier than SKCL Green but is a big underdog most people don't care for. It's a nice switch, but I'm happy with SKCL Green and Brown.
Cream is a jump up from Yellow and it's a bit heavier. It's cushiony and feels almost as heavy as SKCL Brown.
Brown is the heaviest linear switch that you can found across a keyboard's alphanumeric keys. It's probably my favorite linear, but I like green a lot too.
So yeah, you're dealing the the heaviest linears. I use a SKCL brown spring in an SKCM Blue switch for my space bar on my Orion TKL. I don't mind uniform springs on any other SKCM blue board I have, but on the Orion, I have to have a heavier space bar spring.
Here's the weights I noted for the different switches. Used a roll of coins. I don't have a fancy weight system. :P
SKCL (linear) Brown - 75g
SKCL (linear) Cream - 70g
SKCL Yellow - 65g
SKCL Green - 52g
I'm going to keep it, I really like it and I was wanting a new Alps board. I take if you've tried them? How do they compare to the other linear Alps?
I forgot to comment on the comparison:
So I've pretty much tried and currently own all the major linear switches with Alps: Yellow, Cream, Brown and Green.
Green is the lightest. Very smooth, but very airy and light. I can see people wanting something a little bit heavier.
Yellow is a little bit heavier. It's around 5-10g heavier than SKCL Green but is a big underdog most people don't care for. It's a nice switch, but I'm happy with SKCL Green and Brown.
Cream is a jump up from Yellow and it's a bit heavier. It's cushiony and feels almost as heavy as SKCL Brown.
Brown is the heaviest linear switch that you can found across a keyboard's alphanumeric keys. It's probably my favorite linear, but I like green a lot too.
So yeah, you're dealing the the heaviest linears. I use a SKCL brown spring in an SKCM Blue switch for my space bar on my Orion TKL. I don't mind uniform springs on any other SKCM blue board I have, but on the Orion, I have to have a heavier space bar spring.
Here's the weights I noted for the different switches. Used a roll of coins. I don't have a fancy weight system. :P
SKCL (linear) Brown - 75g
SKCL (linear) Cream - 70g
SKCL Yellow - 65g
SKCL Green - 52g
You need to try Ambers son! Ambers and Blues are where it's at!
I have what I like to call "Chyros Ghetto-Browns" (blacks with the leaves removed), really all you would need is a heavier spring and you could basically replicate Browns right?
a NIB ambers board just sold for $100. I tried to get it for a friend in Canada, but someone beat me to it.
You need to try Ambers son! Ambers and Blues are where it's at!
I have what I like to call "Chyros Ghetto-Browns" (blacks with the leaves removed), really all you would need is a heavier spring and you could basically replicate Browns right?
You need to try Ambers son! Ambers and Blues are where it's at!
I have what I like to call "Chyros Ghetto-Browns" (blacks with the leaves removed), really all you would need is a heavier spring and you could basically replicate Browns right?
I've tried pretty much everything haha. I haven't tried pine SKCM Black or OG SKCM Ivory/Cream from the Canon Typewriters, but those examples aren't very different from their counterparts from what I've read. Pine tops add more tactility and the Ivory switches are just a bit stiffer? Still want to try those though.
Ambers... I didn't like the click very much and it felt like I was typing on rocky road. I do want to buy an Apple IIc again and give them a second chance, but I traded all of mine for more blues lol.
I would say that the blacks in an AT101W aren't as heavy as SKCL Brown though, lemmie check, haha.
Edit: Nope, they're more like ghetto SKCL Yellows. All of those switches, SKCL Yellow, SKCM White, SKCM Salmon, SKCM Black and I think even SKCM Green, use the same weighting for the return spring.
I got my Apple IIc for $47. $100 is a nightmare. Ugh, damn the prices.
I noticed there are at least two if not more model numbers on the Apple IIc keyboard p/n's themselves...I'm not sure if there is a difference between them and which ones carry Ambers, or do all of them have Ambers?
I have what I like to call "Chyros Ghetto-Browns" (blacks with the leaves removed), really all you would need is a heavier spring and you could basically replicate Browns right?
The slider color is EXACTLY the same between SKCL and SKCM Brown, however the slider is not the same. It is symmetrical on SKCL Brown (like SKCL Cream and SKCL Green, etc), but asymmetrical like most Alps switches on SKCM Brown.
The contact leaves are the same though.
a NIB ambers board just sold for $100. I tried to get it for a friend in Canada, but someone beat me to it.
I noticed there are at least two if not more model numbers on the Apple IIc keyboard p/n's themselves...I'm not sure if there is a difference between them and which ones carry Ambers, or do all of them have Ambers?
The ones that always have ambers are the A2S4100 models.I think they're also known as the platinum versions, but I'm not 100% sure on that last bit.Nope, nevermind. :P
That model number is correct though.
I'm guessing that's the p/n of the Apple IIC itself, the actualy keyboard number is like xxx-xxxx
not to rub it in, but could have had the seller ship just the keyboard and saved on that $40 shipping. Well I am sure there will be more. It was a mass production in the USA, so I think you can find them later on. Are ambers clicky or no?
I've seen a replacement model come with SKCM Blue. I threw mine out after desoldering
Yeah, Ambers are quite tactile, like SKCM Browns, but the drop in resistance is sharp like other clicky SKCMs and not rounded like Browns. They feel quite nice and sound pretty decent.
Have a very great find like klennkellon's Packard Bell on its way off craigslist!!
My best find by far :D
Yea lol all these deez Packard Bell's lately :))Have a very great find like klennkellon's Packard Bell on its way off craigslist!!
My best find by far :D
One might even say that your find itself is...
A PACKARD BELL! :eek:
Have a very great find like klennkellon's Packard Bell on its way off craigslist!!Congrats! Is it the same type of board with SKCL Brown? We're lucky as hell xD
My best find by far :D
Have a very great find like klennkellon's Packard Bell on its way off craigslist!!Congrats! Is it the same type of board with SKCL Brown? We're lucky as hell xD
My best find by far :D
Coincidentally, the last thing of interest I found at the same thrift store was also a Packard Bell. I got excited and thought it used those excellent BTC domes but it turns out it's using some obscure but lame feeling Fujitsu domes with slider. I did at least get a Focus style split right shift and big-ass enter cap out of it.
Whoa, very nice find. :)White. That particular one is just yellowed. Here is the one I bought. Almost no yellowing whatsoever :eek:
Out of curiosity, does it have the white or gold LED sticker?
Okay wow, that $25 price tag sounded familiar. I actually saw this listing a few weeks ago but I passed on it because I couldn't get the seller to pull a cap. Were you able to manage it?No. I'm guessing. SKCM Blue seems to be the most common, only one example has been found to have SKCM White. Otherwise there are many more examples I have found online so far with SKCM Blue. The reason I didn't ask is unique. There's actually quite the story behind this. E3E tried to get this for a while but the guy just went dead on him randomly. He never responded to me the first time. He just relisted it a couple days ago and he responded and I nabbed it. Lucky the seller even went through with it. Asking to pull a cap may have been suicide.
Yep, I was after that one too, but the seller went unresponsive. You win some, you lose some. Haha yeah, asking to pull of cap might've tipped the boat. Best to make things as simple as possible. I mean, it's a hell of a price any way you cut it.Sandy swapped SKCM Orange into that one I think. "Post products retrofit to all switches extraction ALPS orange for iron plate poor but save the state had been using the ALPS white axis switch also rust was awful"
Yeah, the indicator labels can yellow on most boards. Was that material mylar or something? Either way, once they yellow, there's nothing that will restore them. Retrobrighting won't do it.
My Focus FK-555 is the only one of the FK-555s I've seen that doesn't have a yellowed function row strip. Most of them are beige.
Good find. These can be SKCM White and SKCM Orange from what I have seen, but by all likelihood, it's going to be SKCM Blue.
Okay, I did not know that E3E was also pursuing this at one point.I'm pretty sure the sticker has nothing to do with it. Just age and condition. In general it seems the LED sticker yellows before the rest of the board does imo.
I was wondering because of the chance of it being SKCM White like you've mentioned. All other examples of the board with SKCM Blues have the gold LED sticker, including this one (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=18588.0).
Sandy's own documentation (http://sandy55.fc2web.com/keyboard/alps.html) of the board has a version of it with a white/grey label and SKCM Whites. I was about to get this board but when I saw this I changed my mind. I'm not much of a risk-taker when it comes to poorly-documented boards. :P Didn't know they could yellow though. TIL!
Hopefully your board does end up having SKCM Blues though.
Yep, I was after that one too, but the seller went unresponsive. You win some, you lose some. Haha yeah, asking to pull of cap might've tipped the boat. Best to make things as simple as possible. I mean, it's a hell of a price any way you cut it.Sandy swapped SKCM Orange into that one I think. "Post products retrofit to all switches extraction ALPS orange for iron plate poor but save the state had been using the ALPS white axis switch also rust was awful"
Yeah, the indicator labels can yellow on most boards. Was that material mylar or something? Either way, once they yellow, there's nothing that will restore them. Retrobrighting won't do it.
My Focus FK-555 is the only one of the FK-555s I've seen that doesn't have a yellowed function row strip. Most of them are beige.
Good find. These can be SKCM White and SKCM Orange from what I have seen, but by all likelihood, it's going to be SKCM Blue.Okay, I did not know that E3E was also pursuing this at one point.I'm pretty sure the sticker has nothing to do with it. Just age and condition. In general it seems the LED sticker yellows before the rest of the board does imo.
I was wondering because of the chance of it being SKCM White like you've mentioned. All other examples of the board with SKCM Blues have the gold LED sticker, including this one (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=18588.0).
Sandy's own documentation (http://sandy55.fc2web.com/keyboard/alps.html) of the board has a version of it with a white/grey label and SKCM Whites. I was about to get this board but when I saw this I changed my mind. I'm not much of a risk-taker when it comes to poorly-documented boards. :P Didn't know they could yellow though. TIL!
Hopefully your board does end up having SKCM Blues though.
I'm guessing that's the p/n of the Apple IIC itself, the actualy keyboard number is like xxx-xxxx
Trying to find the keyboard itself alone? I've seen a replacement model come with SKCM Blue. I threw mine out after desoldering so I have no idea what the keyboard model # would be. Didn't find anything on your Apple IIc when you got it in?
A quick question, please: Does anyone know if SKCM Browns are lubricated? I am prepping for my 60% 5140 build and want to clean the switches up a bit before I start it. It does not appear that they are.I'm pretty certain they use dry lubricant, I think ALPS did this until (SKCM Salmon I think?) and then they switched to a smoother plastic in exchange.
A quick question, please: Does anyone know if SKCM Browns are lubricated? I am prepping for my 60% 5140 build and want to clean the switches up a bit before I start it. It does not appear that they are.I'm pretty certain they use dry lubricant, I think ALPS did this until (SKCM Salmon I think?) and then they switched to a smoother plastic in exchange.
Looks like a Acer KB101A, with SKCM White? Its with a whole system so no use getting it I suppose. My grandparents have a house up there in the Anza desert actually.Probably a 6011, they could come with the same case as the KB-101A. In fact, that case model made it into the 6300 series, even.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/sys/5724039748.html
Looks like a Acer KB101A, with SKCM White? Its with a whole system so no use getting it I suppose. My grandparents have a house up there in the Anza desert actually.Just looking through that same page I found a listing for 2 5140s for $250. Have you tried getting in touch with the seller?
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/sys/5724039748.html
Yea, tried that a while ago. He wanted too much for the broken one like $70. Tried to re contact him a couple weeks back and he never responded, probably recognized me. I was going to buy it but I backed out. He's actually like 5min from my house lol.Looks like a Acer KB101A, with SKCM White? Its with a whole system so no use getting it I suppose. My grandparents have a house up there in the Anza desert actually.Just looking through that same page I found a listing for 2 5140s for $250. Have you tried getting in touch with the seller?
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/sys/5724039748.html
I've been told that GON took the original cherry pcb and make mods to it to work work alps. I am still not sure about the plate. obviously it's different by color and size. I think he might have had one custom cut or something. I was also told that it costs a very high fee.
Well this is going real cheap, NIB http://www.ebay.com/itm/302032113407Neat, do you know if they came with the late blacks or the earlier ones?
Used to have one actually, was my first Alps board. SKCM Black.
No slits, late. Mine felt like crap :(Well this is going real cheap, NIB http://www.ebay.com/itm/302032113407Neat, do you know if they came with the late blacks or the earlier ones?
Used to have one actually, was my first Alps board. SKCM Black.
The shipping kind of kills it for me, though so I'll pass.
If only alps had won the keyboard wars :(No slits, late. Mine felt like crap :(Well this is going real cheap, NIB http://www.ebay.com/itm/302032113407Neat, do you know if they came with the late blacks or the earlier ones?
Used to have one actually, was my first Alps board. SKCM Black.
The shipping kind of kills it for me, though so I'll pass.
Yea, shipping is ok but for the price no. The box is pretty cool though. For over 20 years, Alps has built the finest keyboards for some of the worlds largest computer companies. As the worlds largest manufacturer of keyswitches and one of the largest manufacturers of keyboards, we're proud to say that we have earned an industry-wide reputation for quality and reliability
No slits, late. Mine felt like crap :(Well this is going real cheap, NIB http://www.ebay.com/itm/302032113407Neat, do you know if they came with the late blacks or the earlier ones?
Used to have one actually, was my first Alps board. SKCM Black.
The shipping kind of kills it for me, though so I'll pass.
Yea, shipping is ok but for the price no. The box is pretty cool though. For over 20 years, Alps has built the finest keyboards for some of the worlds largest computer companies. As the worlds largest manufacturer of keyswitches and one of the largest manufacturers of keyboards, we're proud to say that we have earned an industry-wide reputation for quality and reliability
They're pad printed. Pretty thin and cheap caps, and bamboo SKCM Black aren't the best. My examples at least from that board felt like they were full of sand. Mine was made in 95-96 if I remember correctly. It was nearing the end :( Build quality was alright though.No slits, late. Mine felt like crap :(Well this is going real cheap, NIB http://www.ebay.com/itm/302032113407Neat, do you know if they came with the late blacks or the earlier ones?
Used to have one actually, was my first Alps board. SKCM Black.
The shipping kind of kills it for me, though so I'll pass.
Yea, shipping is ok but for the price no. The box is pretty cool though. For over 20 years, Alps has built the finest keyboards for some of the worlds largest computer companies. As the worlds largest manufacturer of keyswitches and one of the largest manufacturers of keyboards, we're proud to say that we have earned an industry-wide reputation for quality and reliability
That description warms my heart. It's a shame Alps couldn't keep it together. Another plus to this keyboard would be the double shots. They are ABS DS, right? It's a shame it's BAE, but you'd get some nice alphas out of it if it is typical Alps DS ABS.
Wait no, that asterisk on the num pad gives it away. That's usually seen on dyesubbed or pad printed sets from what I've seen. :-X
Yeah, definitely D: . Of course, the reason they couldn't is because they didn't have to. As soon as making keyswitches turned less lucrative, they just focused on different things. Alps is a massive company so in a way it wasn't much more than an inconvenience. Cherry never had that choice, so they had to stay in the market.No slits, late. Mine felt like crap :(Well this is going real cheap, NIB http://www.ebay.com/itm/302032113407Neat, do you know if they came with the late blacks or the earlier ones?
Used to have one actually, was my first Alps board. SKCM Black.
The shipping kind of kills it for me, though so I'll pass.
Yea, shipping is ok but for the price no. The box is pretty cool though. For over 20 years, Alps has built the finest keyboards for some of the worlds largest computer companies. As the worlds largest manufacturer of keyswitches and one of the largest manufacturers of keyboards, we're proud to say that we have earned an industry-wide reputation for quality and reliability
That description warms my heart. It's a shame Alps couldn't keep it together.
Yeah, definitely D: . Of course, the reason they couldn't is because they didn't have to. As soon as making keyswitches turned less lucrative, they just focused on different things. Alps is a massive company so in a way it wasn't much more than an inconvenience. Cherry never had that choice, so they had to stay in the market.
YES!!!!!!!!!! :D :eek:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/WFXLP8E.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/hu6scjU.jpg?1)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iFZNPwJ.jpg)
More pics soon, need to crack this beast open and clean! Its all seems to be surface dirt and nothing serious. The Blues have Alps logos as well.
Nice! :eek:
That the top housings have Alps logos is particularly interesting, late SKCM Blues it would seem.
EDIT: I am guessing they also have white switchplates too?
SKCM Blue is somewhat abysmally documented considering the amount we collectively know about them. It'd be cool if the community could pool resources to find out as much as we can about these lovely things :D .Yeah, definitely D: . Of course, the reason they couldn't is because they didn't have to. As soon as making keyswitches turned less lucrative, they just focused on different things. Alps is a massive company so in a way it wasn't much more than an inconvenience. Cherry never had that choice, so they had to stay in the market.
That's true, Alps is a much larger company. It's easy to see them as the underdog when you're just looking at these to as if they were just keyboard switch companies, but Alps always had more going for it. It wasn't just a start-up that couldn't keep up with Cherry. :PYES!!!!!!!!!! :D :eek:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/WFXLP8E.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/hu6scjU.jpg?1)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iFZNPwJ.jpg)
More pics soon, need to crack this beast open and clean! Its all seems to be surface dirt and nothing serious. The Blues have Alps logos as well.
Photek bought one off off hammergammeler and it also had blue Alps with logos. It seems to be a trend with this one. The only other I've seen that with was the Apple IIc replacement keyboard.Nice! :eek:
That the top housings have Alps logos is particularly interesting, late SKCM Blues it would seem.
EDIT: I am guessing they also have white switchplates too?
If they didn't, I'd be surprised. I have some no logo blues with white switch plates. I wonder if these have long or short plates. I'm guessing they're still long though. Orange had long switch plates even with the logos on the housings.
Gotta wonder HOW late these are, because my Acer and Leading Edge are both from 1989 and don't have switches with the logos. One even has grey switch plates while the other has white. So those two probably used left over stock. I guess these were actually from batches made in the late late 80s.
the contrast between a used and an unused Alps board is just staggering. Once you go unused Alps, you never go back.
Is there any way that the design of Alps could be changed so that they're not as susceptible to dust?Tbh I'm not sure what it is about Alps that makes them so susceptible in the first place xD .
You're right, a better term would be "like new" or just "clean and unused". Even NOS boards can be very dirty with some bad luck :/ .
the contrast between a used and an unused Alps board is just staggering. Once you go unused Alps, you never go back.
I don't know that "new" is actually the thing rather than "clean"
I still have an AT101W that I got with a Dell system in the late 1990s that still feels pretty good after *substantial* use (but not abuse), and I got one New-in-Box (but not hermetically sealed-in-plastic) a couple of years ago that was awful. There seemed to be some very fine dust that must have been atmospheric that had gotten all the way in.
If I were a braver man I'd pull an Ellipse and make brand-new SKCM blue boards. But I'm not xD .
Funny, I had a debounce issue on a alps switch, literally took it apart, blew some air through it and put it back together. It began to register perfectly...they definitely are more sensitive than all the other inferior switches ;D
Once you go unused Alps, you never go back.
Is there any way that the design of Alps could be changed so that they're not as susceptible to dust?Tbh I'm not sure what it is about Alps that makes them so susceptible in the first place xD .
If I were a braver man I'd pull an Ellipse and make brand-new SKCM blue boards. But I'm not xD .
Do linear Alps typically hold up a little a little longer so long as they remain clean? You don't have to worry about the metal on the click leaf wearing out.
Do linear Alps typically hold up a little a little longer so long as they remain clean? You don't have to worry about the metal on the click leaf wearing out.
I think it's about the same for both. I'd say linear alps are a little more vulnerable ONLY because their entire feeling rides on that smooth linear travel. I'd say you don't have anything to worry about when it comes to the switches just suddenly changing feel on you. They won't!
Pretty much only keyboards stored in junk yards or in otherwise really dusty (especially fine dust) areas will have issues. I keep all my keyboards in boxes or cases when I'm not using except for the one Docutech I like to display and whatever keyboard is in the current rotation at my desk.
So yeah, unless your place is crazy dusty, you should be fine, especially if you store your boards away or keep them in rotation.
You actually opened and cleaned every switch? It looked clean enough to not have to do that, haha. That's dedication. I only did that on my Docutechs because of the rarity of the switches.Yea. I've done my SGI twice (before and after switch swap) and FK-3001 as well. In the 3001 they made a huge difference and in the other three times more minor. I did it in this case since someone had spilled something on in the past and wanted to make sure it was all good.
I technically did it on my SKCL Browns in my NCR and SKCL Greens in my Hammer Alps board because I lubed the springs to get rid of that terrible ping, but yeah. Most blue Alps boards I've had, if not all of them, except for a really grimy FK-2001 from TaoBao, didn't really need any cleaning and they all felt great.
You actually opened and cleaned every switch? It looked clean enough to not have to do that, haha. That's dedication. I only did that on my Docutechs because of the rarity of the switches.Yea. I've done my SGI twice (before and after switch swap) and FK-3001 as well. In the 3001 they made a huge difference and in the other three times more minor. I did it in this case since someone had spilled something on in the past and wanted to make sure it was all good.
I technically did it on my SKCL Browns in my NCR and SKCL Greens in my Hammer Alps board because I lubed the springs to get rid of that terrible ping, but yeah. Most blue Alps boards I've had, if not all of them, except for a really grimy FK-2001 from TaoBao, didn't really need any cleaning and they all felt great.
Specfially in this case it made them feel a bit more snappy and tactile. Minor imo, but do it once and your done. The only board I didn't do was my Greens from my Zenith since they felt perfect. Still a pain in the ass even though I've gotten quite quick at it. Total time for restro was around 4-5 hours straight. I'll put on twitch or a podcast so I don't get bored.
Total around 750 switches at least, with all that and the Taobao stuff i'm slowly restoring. Not counting either the couple times I've swapped my pcb mount cherry board. Some goddamn dedication alright :confused:
Not exactly sure if it was a spill but some white goo-y stuff on the bottom of the numpad. Under an Alt key also there was also some weird stuff that looked like a spider web. All cleaned up however :thumb:You actually opened and cleaned every switch? It looked clean enough to not have to do that, haha. That's dedication. I only did that on my Docutechs because of the rarity of the switches.Yea. I've done my SGI twice (before and after switch swap) and FK-3001 as well. In the 3001 they made a huge difference and in the other three times more minor. I did it in this case since someone had spilled something on in the past and wanted to make sure it was all good.
I technically did it on my SKCL Browns in my NCR and SKCL Greens in my Hammer Alps board because I lubed the springs to get rid of that terrible ping, but yeah. Most blue Alps boards I've had, if not all of them, except for a really grimy FK-2001 from TaoBao, didn't really need any cleaning and they all felt great.
Specfially in this case it made them feel a bit more snappy and tactile. Minor imo, but do it once and your done. The only board I didn't do was my Greens from my Zenith since they felt perfect. Still a pain in the ass even though I've gotten quite quick at it. Total time for restro was around 4-5 hours straight. I'll put on twitch or a podcast so I don't get bored.
Total around 750 switches at least, with all that and the Taobao stuff i'm slowly restoring. Not counting either the couple times I've swapped my pcb mount cherry board. Some goddamn dedication alright :confused:
Oh snap, someone didn't actually spill something in that Packard Bell, did they?
Yeah, that's definitely some dedication though. The Packard looks clean! :thumb: Only thing I always thought was funky on that board was the bottom plate and its feet.
doubtless that it was a good deal though.Bought this, what do you guys think? couldnt really pass up this deal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371704655117?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/371704655117?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
tempted me the other day, but I don't like clicky boards too much hahah
Bought this, what do you guys think? couldnt really pass up this deal.Great deal. Those ANSI ones always go for a lot more than the BAE's.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371704655117?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/371704655117?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
I think I've seen a lot of my boards with screws in the PCB to keep them together. Ugh, it's been so long since I've taken apart the FAME, but I think it did as well. For a board whose descendants almost all had shoddy build quality, the FAME I have was pretty well built.I know that omnikeys have their pcbs bolted to their plates.
The Acer KB101A definitely has screws to keep the PCB pinned to the plate. I forget if the LE DC-3014 does. Definitely cool though and it's a good way to kill flex indeed.
I dunno, frankly I doubt it, because I'd be marketing a product specifically to out-perform his own xD .If I were a braver man I'd pull an Ellipse and make brand-new SKCM blue boards. But I'm not xD .
If you do ever go through with this, I think a partnership with Matias would be very appropriate and would expedite a number of things, I'd imagine.
Yeah, I was going to make a joke about when you make it big on youtube and get rich in about a year or so, to come back to this, but the process of getting all that done and handled and working with factories itself is just really intimidating. You'd have tons to cover before any ground could be made, but we'd all be eternally grateful, haha.Haha I seriously doubt that, vintage mechanical keyboards aren't exactly mainstream xD .
Seriously though, your channel is starting to get a lot more attention these days, which is awesome, man. It's definitely going to blow up at some point.
Funny, I had a debounce issue on a alps switch, literally took it apart, blew some air through it and put it back together. It began to register perfectly...they definitely are more sensitive than all the other inferior switches ;DI'm actually typing on the only Alps keyboard with a chattering switch that I have. The 0 key doesn't register properly, and chatters. I've tried to clean it out but it only relieved it momentarily. In truth, Alps switches are quite resilient against chatter, much more than Cherry, due to the design of the switchplate, which is quite durable. Fortunately I have hundreds of spares xD .
@Chyros: To quote your words above, "Once you go unused Alps, you never go back."Well, yes, ironically xD . I almost never use my Acer because I'm afraid of somehow damaging it xD .
Does this mean that you can never use them? ;)
$70 for an Omnikey seems like a reasonable deal, you are dealing with a board that is arguably more durable than the Model M.I'd say it's built more like a Model F than an M xD .
I've got more alps boards than cherry now and I didn't even have alps boards last week. What the ****It's a deep, spiraling vortex from which there is no escaping :p .
I know that omnikeys have their pcbs bolted to their plates.
On my avant prime I removed the bolts with a soldering iron and alot of patience. I dont know what possessed them to make them want to solder the bolts to the pcb, but it sure is ****ty to remove.
I know that omnikeys have their pcbs bolted to their plates.
Makes for a problem when you have a rusty plate that you want to clean and paint. The only realistic way to do it is to remove all the stabilizer clips, clean off the rust, and slip strips of paper in between the PCB and the plate to mask from spray and over-spray. Then re-insert the clips and away you go.
/\_/\
( o.o )
> ^ <
I don't know if it's that they're less plentiful; they seem just as common as they've been in the past year, but it's as it always has been: you get some sellers that list them very painfully high prices and others that list them for scrap prices. It's like this for the Apple IIc A2S4100 systems as well. :-XYea. Its either super expensive or dirt cheap. More with the IIC's than the 5140's I feel. Seen more beat up ones with missing caps go for $30-40
I would bid on that, but I hate bidding against other geekhackers. all yours pal
I would bid on that, but I hate bidding against other geekhackers. all yours pal
The seller was initially going to sell it to me last night once he dropped the price, even talked and requested an invoice for lower shipping. Pretty disappointing to see a message this morning about listing it for auction.
Anyway, I am impatient to try brown alps, plz don't bid against me.
Did anyone here ever try those clicky green Alps clones on those XM Ducky's awhile back? I've heard the build quality of the board itself was complete trash but interested in the switches, they had a neat sound.I own a loose switch, it's one of the copper leaf-based clones, which I've found lacking, personally. Of course it's hard to say without a whole board though. Tbh of all the Alps clones I've found, there were only few I considered interesting, and this was not one of them :p .
Did anyone here ever try those clicky green Alps clones on those XM Ducky's awhile back? I've heard the build quality of the board itself was complete trash but interested in the switches, they had a neat sound.
Did anyone here ever try those clicky green Alps clones on those XM Ducky's awhile back? I've heard the build quality of the board itself was complete trash but interested in the switches, they had a neat sound.I too have a loose switch, not very interesting. feels like skbm switches to me. I can send you the loose switch if you want
Did anyone here ever try those clicky green Alps clones on those XM Ducky's awhile back? I've heard the build quality of the board itself was complete trash but interested in the switches, they had a neat sound.When I first got into mechanical keyboards, before I really knew anything that was the first board I wanted. Had a neat sound like you said.
Did anyone here ever try those clicky green Alps clones on those XM Ducky's awhile back? I've heard the build quality of the board itself was complete trash but interested in the switches, they had a neat sound.When I first got into mechanical keyboards, before I really knew anything that was the first board I wanted. Had a neat sound like you said.
There was a video of a guy who used the linear black XM clones and he really didn't like them, apparently the actuation point on them was super-duper high so even the slightest bump would activate the key.
I'm aware of this, but it was even higher.
There was a video of a guy who used the linear black XM clones and he really didn't like them, apparently the actuation point on them was super-duper high so even the slightest bump would activate the key.
High actuation is one of the greatest advantages of Alps and similar.
Those MX to Alps adapters exist but they're damn expensive and not flawless, if I recall they make the keys sit slightly higher up and it makes them look like they're wobblier. I haven't been able to find them.
There is a 3D model floating around somewhere so I suppose anyone could go and make one.
One issue I see happening is that the mounting stem on the cap might be too wide and mess with the slider's travel into the housing.
Wait, nevermind. I severely overestimated the size of MX cap stems. The Alps slider dwarfs it. So full slider swaps with MX mounts are feasible.
Damn, Alps switches are so prettyShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z0y6b3p.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qTybEhj.jpg)
As pretty as they are, if they had an MX mount my life would be complete.
Not too sure what alps switchtops you checked, but the openings on some SKCM oranges I have are about 5.4mm for the smaller dimension of the opening, which is about 0.1mm less than the stems on SA caps which I measured at about 5.5mm, and 0.2mm smaller than some cherry double shots I had around where the stems measure about 5.6mm wide.
I managed to get the stem through a housing with a bit of force, but obviously, this kills the proposition. You'd either have to shave the stems on the caps or the housing opening, which would then just become even more of a dust hazard.
I guess the best solution would be modified top housings AND modified stems withe a Cherry MX mount that still used the same internal dimensions of the original Alps sliders on the bottom end so it wouldn't alter the feel of the stem acting on the tactile or clicky leaves, but then that'd already be too complicated. I don't think anyone makes housings with slits anymore, so it'd probably already be quite an investment. If we use housings without the slits, then that'd alter the feel of almost every popular switch. The only switch it wouldn't effect that people like are bamboo SKCM Green. Some like bamboo SKCM Black, but still.
All to use your favorite Cherry caps. Eh.
This is going to sound weird, but the skcl brown board still has a very noticable "New Plastic/Electronic" smell to it.
I managed to get the stem through a housing with a bit of force, but obviously, this kills the proposition. You'd either have to shave the stems on the caps or the housing opening, which would then just become even more of a dust hazard.
I guess the best solution would be modified top housings AND modified stems withe a Cherry MX mount that still used the same internal dimensions of the original Alps sliders on the bottom end so it wouldn't alter the feel of the stem acting on the tactile or clicky leaves, but then that'd already be too complicated. I don't think anyone makes housings with slits anymore, so it'd probably already be quite an investment. If we use housings without the slits, then that'd alter the feel of almost every popular switch. The only switch it wouldn't effect that people like are bamboo SKCM Green. Some like bamboo SKCM Black, but still.
All to use your favorite Cherry caps. Eh.
Yea, that's about the same I noticed, cherry caps were a no go without force, SA caps were snug but would go through with a slight interference fit.
And as for the dust, I wonder if someone made a QMX-ish like rubber/silicone top to prevent things from getting around the keycap stem if that could help with some of that, though just like all the other options, it would affect the switch feel too.
"Now I need to go smell all of my keyboards, dammit. "
Geekhack 2016
Just got my omnikey in the mail, the board is dirty but the switches feel nice and clean. I was wondering, do any of you have the alternate ctrl and caps lock keycaps? I would love to get them.I only have the one where the ctrl sits on the caps lock space and vice versa. I never use that layout though.
ooh those are the caps I want! I can send you the normal caps lock key and the normal ctrl and you can send me your caps. how does that sound?Just got my omnikey in the mail, the board is dirty but the switches feel nice and clean. I was wondering, do any of you have the alternate ctrl and caps lock keycaps? I would love to get them.I only have the one where the ctrl sits on the caps lock space and vice versa. I never use that layout though.
@alh84001: Do you need to separate the plate from the PCB? I've heard that this is to be avoided if at all possible on the Northgate Omnikey 101 keyboards. However, if you are going ahead anyway, did you use some form of a "solder sucker" when desoldering?Thanks! I will look into that and give him a call. Do you know what he sells ultras for? I may sell this 101 and buy an ultra from him. Were ultras ever made with gold labels/blue alps?
@mike52787: You can purchase the extra Ctrl and CapsLock keys from "Northgate Bob":
http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/
They are somewhat expensive ($10 plus shipping for the set of two plus a wire key puller), but they are the genuine article and I believe they are unused.
@alh84001: Do you need to separate the plate from the PCB? I've heard that this is to be avoided if at all possible on the Northgate Omnikey 101 keyboards. However, if you are going ahead anyway, did you use some form of a "solder sucker" when desoldering?
@mike52787: You can call or email Bob for availability and prices. I think that the Omni 101 is $150 plus shipping, but I don't know the prices for his various others, except a gold label Ultra 102 with blue Alps that I bought for $225 plus shipping. Some time ago, I also bought a NIB Wang 725-3770 from him for $125 plus shipping, but prices may have gone up since then. If you buy a Northgate from him, I think he might throw in the Caps/Ctrl keys for free. He also does repair, cleaning, and refurbishing of Nothgate and some other keyboards.Sounds a bit expensive, but from what ive gathered they are professionally refurbished and cleaned.My 101 needs a good cleaning, but I believe my endgame board would be an omnikey ultra with new old stock blue alps.
I doubt they'd have the same texture and level of yellowing tbh xD .ooh those are the caps I want! I can send you the normal caps lock key and the normal ctrl and you can send me your caps. how does that sound?Just got my omnikey in the mail, the board is dirty but the switches feel nice and clean. I was wondering, do any of you have the alternate ctrl and caps lock keycaps? I would love to get them.I only have the one where the ctrl sits on the caps lock space and vice versa. I never use that layout though.
I received mine yesterday. Omnikey 101. I tried to do full disassembly today and got stuck on the last bolts. Out of all the bolts that hold the PCB and plate together all but one were clean and were easy to unscrew. The last one was soldered (I guess) and I went gung-ho with the soldering iron expecting to quickly desolder the tin and get to the bolt. Alas, it was not meant to be. Here's the resultMoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/z24HG4y.jpg)
Any ideas how to proceed from here? It's not as flat as it looks in the pic. It's not enough that switch pins are bent, but they also went and did this with the screws, just so that they could mess with people some 20 years later :). I tried cutting the solder too, but only managed to cut some traces. Luckily, the pins that are connected through them still have continuity.
@mike52787: You can call or email Bob for availability and prices. I think that the Omni 101 is $150 plus shipping, but I don't know the prices for his various others, except a gold label Ultra 102 with blue Alps that I bought for $225 plus shipping. Some time ago, I also bought a NIB Wang 725-3770 from him for $125 plus shipping, but prices may have gone up since then. If you buy a Northgate from him, I think he might throw in the Caps/Ctrl keys for free. He also does repair, cleaning, and refurbishing of Nothgate and some other keyboards.Sounds a bit expensive, but from what ive gathered they are professionally refurbished and cleaned.My 101 needs a good cleaning, but I believe my endgame board would be an omnikey ultra with new old stock blue alps.
I wasnt talking about sending mine in for refurbishment, I was thinking about buying an omnikey ultra from him. He charges 200$ for an omnikey ultra, completely refurbished.
I know its high. I probably wont do it. Omnikey ultras never came with blues afaikNo, they seem to have phased out by the time they came up with the Ultra. Which is why I'm looking for a blue Alps 102 rather than an Ultra :D .
Forgot to post this pic I took when I was restoring the Packard Bell. No rust :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lybqEvo.jpg)
Forgot to post this pic I took when I was restoring the Packard Bell. No rust :)Aw man, doesn't that look smexy? :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/lybqEvo.jpg)
Yep, only those gold label 102s, though they can also have white Alps in rare circumstances, kind of like that DC-3014 that just sold on eBay recently. That's the only one I've ever heard of with white Alps.I can't see the picture anymore, but I remember the board vaguely. I'm not too surprised actually, Northgate appeared to be obsessed with making the keyboard compatible with everyone and their dog xd . Probably why their keyboards outlived them as a company :p .
The Omnikey 102 has a strange layout though. Fohat's Omnikey 101s with blue Alps swapped in sound great, though I know Chyros isn't an ANSI fan.
What do you guys think of that strange Mac-oriented Omnikey that came around on eBay a while back?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Northgate-OmniKey-Omnimac-Ultra-Keyboard-/252404831624?hash=item3ac4801588%3Ag%3A~~EAAOSwintXSKJl&nma=true&si=9Ba%252FCfHEbEBqYK8fClKFuHZquqs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
I can see the picsForgot to post this pic I took when I was restoring the Packard Bell. No rust :)Aw man, doesn't that look smexy? :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/lybqEvo.jpg)Yep, only those gold label 102s, though they can also have white Alps in rare circumstances, kind of like that DC-3014 that just sold on eBay recently. That's the only one I've ever heard of with white Alps.I can't see the picture anymore, but I remember the board vaguely. I'm not too surprised actually, Northgate appeared to be obsessed with making the keyboard compatible with everyone and their dog xd . Probably why their keyboards outlived them as a company :p .
The Omnikey 102 has a strange layout though. Fohat's Omnikey 101s with blue Alps swapped in sound great, though I know Chyros isn't an ANSI fan.
What do you guys think of that strange Mac-oriented Omnikey that came around on eBay a while back?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Northgate-OmniKey-Omnimac-Ultra-Keyboard-/252404831624?hash=item3ac4801588%3Ag%3A~~EAAOSwintXSKJl&nma=true&si=9Ba%252FCfHEbEBqYK8fClKFuHZquqs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
I have a question, what are Alps Kingsavers? Is it just a name for any customized TKL alps board?
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3708/14069807139_5c247bbd1a.jpg)I have a question, what are Alps Kingsavers? Is it just a name for any customized TKL alps board?
They are a specific custom aluminum-cased TKL made by Duck years back. It has a very specific layout and can only use key caps from a Wang 725.
It's a flat cased design with aluminum cone feet. Can't dig up pics atm.
most of us would kill to have one, they rarely come up for sale and when they do, theyre not cheap.
Holy ****balls, $200?! Can't you just make one yourself for less than that?! Oomost of us would kill to have one, they rarely come up for sale and when they do, theyre not cheap.
I kick myself for not buying one that Akimbo offered to sell me in the mid-$200s a few years ago, but I was broke.
Holy ****balls, $200?! Can't you just make one yourself for less than that?! Oomost of us would kill to have one, they rarely come up for sale and when they do, theyre not cheap.
I kick myself for not buying one that Akimbo offered to sell me in the mid-$200s a few years ago, but I was broke.
Do you no how much they sell for these days? Like $700. :P I bought my Orion v2 with an Alps PCB and plate for $740 and invested over $1100~ total with the hotswap modding, buying mint AT101 caps, dyeing equipment, etc. The sockets for the hot swapping cost $100 alone (getting them from the UK was actually a lot cheaper than ordering them from digikey when I used a proxy).What the actual ****, dude xD . That kind of money nets you an overpriced blue Alps board xD .
I sold both of the MX plates that came with my Orion which took away $180 from the expenses, but I still spent around the $1000 mark on this keyboard, haha.
I invested $660-700~ in my Hammer Alps board that's in my display picture.
Yeah, the prices are crazy, dude.
What the actual ****, dude
What the actual ****, dude xD . That kind of money nets you an overpriced blue Alps board xD .
That said, I might have to start my own Alps build soon xD.
****Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QcAQkc5.jpg)
:)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QcAQkc5.jpg)
:)
The space bar on the left one is a little yellow.
Black Dell AT101W and swapping in Orange Alps.
Someone is offering me an FK-2001 from 93' made in the USA for $40, it looks like it's in great condition, think it's worth it? I've never heard of one made in the US.Me neither Oo . All the ones I know were made in Asia Oo . By '93 it probably came with clones, but with one like this you never know. It's pretty hard to mistake it as well because it says clearly on the label normally.
It says the types of switches on the label?Someone is offering me an FK-2001 from 93' made in the USA for $40, it looks like it's in great condition, think it's worth it? I've never heard of one made in the US.Me neither Oo . All the ones I know were made in Asia Oo . By '93 it probably came with clones, but with one like this you never know. It's pretty hard to mistake it as well because it says clearly on the label normally.
Huh, that doesn't look like an Omron to me.On the deskauthority site the style Omrons the slider looks just like the Alps slider.
The pictures aren't great, but I -think- I see the distinctive Alps tabs, so maybe they're real Alps. I also see slits, so they seem legit in this case.
Huh, that doesn't look like an Omron to me.On the deskauthority site the style Omrons the slider looks just like the Alps slider.
The pictures aren't great, but I -think- I see the distinctive Alps tabs, so maybe they're real Alps. I also see slits, so they seem legit in this case.
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Omron_Alps-style_switch
Haha, good luck. It's interesting that Focus even had any US made keyboards, considering that they're speculated to have made the Omnikeys, and I think all of those were made in Taiwan afaik. I know Northgate sold the design off to some other companies though.Wait what? Wouldn't expect them to had made something like the Omnikey, which is built like carbon nanotudes compared Focus's usual "meh" build quality.
I think that's where the Avant Prime and that weird black Omnikey come from.
Haha, good luck. It's interesting that Focus even had any US made keyboards, considering that they're speculated to have made the Omnikeys, and I think all of those were made in Taiwan afaik. I know Northgate sold the design off to some other companies though.Wait what? Wouldn't expect them to had made something like the Omnikey, which is built like carbon nanotudes compared Focus's usual "meh" build quality.
I think that's where the Avant Prime and that weird black Omnikey come from.
I have still been working on things in my spare time, most recently I began restoring a real (not painted like my previous one) Black Dell AT101W and swapping in Orange Alps. I painted the plate and began soldering in switches but I'm not done yet:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LuL8OXg.png)
I have a question, what are Alps Kingsavers? Is it just a name for any customized TKL alps board?
They are a specific custom aluminum-cased TKL made by Duck years back. It has a very specific layout and can only use key caps from a Wang 725.
It's a flat cased design with aluminum cone feet. Can't dig up pics atm.
Did anyone here ever try those clicky green Alps clones on those XM Ducky's awhile back? I've heard the build quality of the board itself was complete trash but interested in the switches, they had a neat sound.
I just picked up an Apple M0116 off eBay, finally my first chance to try out Alps. On arrival I discovered the board was in pretty bad shape with nasty stuff all over the plate and keycaps. Lucky me though, the keycaps cleaned up very nicely, and surprisingly the switches (salmon) seem to be pretty clean. I've opened a few switches and found very little to worry about inside. I've desoldered and plan to put these on an Infinity board.Dont bother with lubing salmon alps. if theyre clean, they should be very smooth with a pronounced tactile bump. if they feels good, dont bother opening them up, its a long process that you wont enjoy.
They feel pretty clean, but I don't have a point of reference for what a clean set feels like. Would it be pretty obvious (either feel or visually inside) if these had dust/contamination issues? The plate and keys were pretty bad, but the switch action seems pretty smooth to me.
I also lubed a few, and can hardly tell the difference. Still debating if I bother with lube, but if I'm going to open them all up, it's not much of an extra step.
Indeed! Worse, it might not even work, or make them worse D: .I just picked up an Apple M0116 off eBay, finally my first chance to try out Alps. On arrival I discovered the board was in pretty bad shape with nasty stuff all over the plate and keycaps. Lucky me though, the keycaps cleaned up very nicely, and surprisingly the switches (salmon) seem to be pretty clean. I've opened a few switches and found very little to worry about inside. I've desoldered and plan to put these on an Infinity board.Dont bother with lubing salmon alps. if theyre clean, they should be very smooth with a pronounced tactile bump. if they feels good, dont bother opening them up, its a long process that you wont enjoy.
They feel pretty clean, but I don't have a point of reference for what a clean set feels like. Would it be pretty obvious (either feel or visually inside) if these had dust/contamination issues? The plate and keys were pretty bad, but the switch action seems pretty smooth to me.
I also lubed a few, and can hardly tell the difference. Still debating if I bother with lube, but if I'm going to open them all up, it's not much of an extra step.
Dont bother with lubing salmon alps. if theyre clean, they should be very smooth with a pronounced tactile bump. if they feels good, dont bother opening them up, its a long process that you wont enjoy.Indeed! Worse, it might not even work, or make them worse D: .
Packard Bell typing test :)Hmmm, blue Alps typing, delicious ^^ .
Damn squeaky chair lol.
watYea they can. The way to tell is to look at the back label and see if there is a S in a little box in the bottom right corner. 95's can have SKCM White Damp.
Why would you buy a AEK from Taobao? There common enough on ebay.
I have a huge order $2000 or so, and it was cheap enough.
wasn't aware that an AEK2 could come with salmons.
I am interested in getting a magnavox videowriter board to harvest for switches. There seems to be 2 versions, but only 1 variant seems to have SKCM Browns.
This one:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/57rNe2i.jpg)
And this oneShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ViE6d3u.jpg)
there is one of those on taobao not sure if in stock thoughyeh I saw it, its a bit much though with proxy fees and shipping and all that ****. I think the asking price is like 45$
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I must knowthere is one of those on taobao not sure if in stock thoughyeh I saw it, its a bit much though with proxy fees and shipping and all that ****. I think the asking price is like 45$
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I'd have gotten it if i didn't have something better coming ^-^
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I must know
ewwI must know
Spolier: It's mainly Cherry.
I am interested in getting a magnavox videowriter board to harvest for switches. There seems to be 2 versions, but only 1 variant seems to have SKCM Browns.
This one:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/57rNe2i.jpg)
And this oneShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ViE6d3u.jpg)
From my observation and understanding: If you see LED windows/cut outs on any of the caps, stay away. Those are mitsumis.
The one without LEDs is SKCM Brown as far as I have seen.
Damn, I thought that was the tell. Looks like it's a game of chance then. :-\
always ask seller to remove key caps
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Just finished my Alps64, really happy with the end result. Sounds great in the TEX alu case.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/o9ISSpX.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MepP5K6.jpg)
Just finished my Alps64, really happy with the end result. Sounds great in the TEX alu case.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/o9ISSpX.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MepP5K6.jpg)
Wow dude, those alphas are sweet! What kind of plate and switches are you using?
Typing vid or it didn't happen :D .
I have no tripod :)) All i have is my phone for photo and videos, might try and stack some books to get a typing video soon. What kind of setup do you use for your typing videos?I use a webcam for the typing videos and a Nokia phone for the reviews.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aEH70xh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XZVXar7.jpg)
Finally got this big bastard all cleaned up. For some reason the keycaps are virgin white, but the case is slightly yellowed. Usually it happens the other way around.
Got my 60% 5140 plate in the mail, I am very very happy I did not screw up the measurements for the Big-Ass Enter stabilizer cutout!That plate looks great. Are you planning to use an alps64 pcb?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kIn9hNo.png)
Full steam ahead!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aEH70xh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XZVXar7.jpg)
Finally got this big bastard all cleaned up. For some reason the keycaps are virgin white, but the case is slightly yellowed. Usually it happens the other way around.
Looks great! Kinda want an Omnikey now.. :p
That plate looks great. Are you planning to use an alps64 pcb?
Also, The guy that I bough my omnikey from just listed another one, looks like its in even better shape than mine was. If you are serious about wanting one, here it is. good price for these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AT-XT-Keyboard-w-5-pin-din-plug-Omnikey-101-Northgate-Computers-clicky-key-/371711732653?hash=item568bbeebad:g:BkkAAOSwU-pXsx94 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AT-XT-Keyboard-w-5-pin-din-plug-Omnikey-101-Northgate-Computers-clicky-key-/371711732653?hash=item568bbeebad:g:BkkAAOSwU-pXsx94)
<snip>That's where I got my Omnikey 101. It was in fairly good shape -- just some scattered spots of corrosion on the top plate and the usual ABS yellowing. The price on the current listing is certainly good, but it appears to me that the condition of the current one is not as good as the one before. For example, the rear DIN6 connector looks rather badly corroded, although it could probably be restored or replaced fairly easily.
<snip>
<snip>
Also, The guy that I bough my omnikey from just listed another one, looks like its in even better shape than mine was. If you are serious about wanting one, here it is. good price for these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AT-XT-Keyboard-w-5-pin-din-plug-Omnikey-101-Northgate-Computers-clicky-key-/371711732653?hash=item568bbeebad:g:BkkAAOSwU-pXsx94 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AT-XT-Keyboard-w-5-pin-din-plug-Omnikey-101-Northgate-Computers-clicky-key-/371711732653?hash=item568bbeebad:g:BkkAAOSwU-pXsx94)
Mine has very nice virgin white keycaps, Im not sure about the other ones. The connector was a bit corroded on mine, but a bit of contact cleaner and toothpicks got it all cleaned up.<snip>That's where I got my Omnikey 101. It was in fairly good shape -- just some scattered spots of corrosion on the top plate and the usual ABS yellowing. The price on the current listing is certainly good, but it appears to me that the condition of the current one is not as good as the one before. For example, the rear DIN6 connector looks rather badly corroded, although it could probably be restored or replaced fairly easily.
<snip>
<snip>
Also, The guy that I bough my omnikey from just listed another one, looks like its in even better shape than mine was. If you are serious about wanting one, here it is. good price for these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AT-XT-Keyboard-w-5-pin-din-plug-Omnikey-101-Northgate-Computers-clicky-key-/371711732653?hash=item568bbeebad:g:BkkAAOSwU-pXsx94 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AT-XT-Keyboard-w-5-pin-din-plug-Omnikey-101-Northgate-Computers-clicky-key-/371711732653?hash=item568bbeebad:g:BkkAAOSwU-pXsx94)
Anyone have information about these KPT switches? https://deskthority.net/wiki/KPT_switch
How do they feel or sound?
Christ, I'm making Xerox boards look like they're AEKs.The Alps Gods have truly smiled upon E3E, unused switches are such a treat! How many Xerox boards do you own now?
The guy I was talking to said a bunch of people from the SF bay area want to buy his 6085 and Sun Microsystems equipment, including extra keyboards and all that junk. We had been talking a lot via email before I even got the SKCM Green 6085 and he showed me a NIB 6085 from 1985 (SKCM Brown). Made me drool, man.
I didn't plan on buying it, but since the other guys were moving in, he offered it to me again, and I couldn't refuse. So looks like I'm getting a pretty sick 6085 Keyboard from the internal Xerox offices at Palo Alto.
1985 was a good year.
http://imgur.com/a/aSyi8MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6UhmYZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C5AiscJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cWpARC1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rok9cjc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IZj2qOZ.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JqSBhKT.jpg?1)
Christ, I'm making Xerox boards look like they're AEKs.The Alps Gods have truly smiled upon E3E, unused switches are such a treat! How many Xerox boards do you own now?
The guy I was talking to said a bunch of people from the SF bay area want to buy his 6085 and Sun Microsystems equipment, including extra keyboards and all that junk. We had been talking a lot via email before I even got the SKCM Green 6085 and he showed me a NIB 6085 from 1985 (SKCM Brown). Made me drool, man.
I didn't plan on buying it, but since the other guys were moving in, he offered it to me again, and I couldn't refuse. So looks like I'm getting a pretty sick 6085 Keyboard from the internal Xerox offices at Palo Alto.
1985 was a good year.
http://imgur.com/a/aSyi8MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6UhmYZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C5AiscJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cWpARC1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rok9cjc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IZj2qOZ.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JqSBhKT.jpg?1)
Christ, I'm making Xerox boards look like they're AEKs.The Alps Gods have truly smiled upon E3E, unused switches are such a treat! How many Xerox boards do you own now?
The guy I was talking to said a bunch of people from the SF bay area want to buy his 6085 and Sun Microsystems equipment, including extra keyboards and all that junk. We had been talking a lot via email before I even got the SKCM Green 6085 and he showed me a NIB 6085 from 1985 (SKCM Brown). Made me drool, man.
I didn't plan on buying it, but since the other guys were moving in, he offered it to me again, and I couldn't refuse. So looks like I'm getting a pretty sick 6085 Keyboard from the internal Xerox offices at Palo Alto.
1985 was a good year.
http://imgur.com/a/aSyi8MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6UhmYZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C5AiscJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cWpARC1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rok9cjc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IZj2qOZ.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JqSBhKT.jpg?1)
Haha. :-[ Six of them now. 4 DocuTechs and 2 6085s. This is the only one that'll have browns. Damn, I didn't even think of the fact it'd have NIB switches. I definitely need to see how it compares!
SIX?!. i only have 2 boards with genuine alps in, mind 6 of the same brand...
SIX?!. i only have 2 boards with genuine alps in, mind 6 of the same brand...
Definitely turning into a bit of a hoarder, I guess. :-X
I don't really want any more DocuTech keyboards. I'm happy with what I have. Two pine, two bamboo, one from 1990, the year they came out. One with a layout I haven't seen before on a DocuTech, even if it's only the left short shift.
I got the 6085 with SKCM Green because it seemed like an important board, to bridge the gap between the DocuTech and 6085 keyboards and show the connection of SKCM Brown to SKCM Green. They're the same exact keyboard, it turns out!
Then finally, the last 6085 is just really cool because it's NIB and one of the earliest models made and in such good condition. It seems like it'd be hard to ever find another like it. I wasn't going to buy it, but when the guys were showing interest in the seller's stuff, I was like... Nope, gotta do it.
So I have a 6085 when it came out in 1985 and a DocuTech when it came out in 1990 (also when I was born). Pretty happy with that. :D
If you dont want any more docutechs, you can direct the ones you find in the future to me :pSIX?!. i only have 2 boards with genuine alps in, mind 6 of the same brand...
Definitely turning into a bit of a hoarder, I guess. :-X
I don't really want any more DocuTech keyboards. I'm happy with what I have. Two pine, two bamboo, one from 1990, the year they came out. One with a layout I haven't seen before on a DocuTech, even if it's only the left short shift.
I got the 6085 with SKCM Green because it seemed like an important board, to bridge the gap between the DocuTech and 6085 keyboards and show the connection of SKCM Brown to SKCM Green. They're the same exact keyboard, it turns out!
Then finally, the last 6085 is just really cool because it's NIB and one of the earliest models made and in such good condition. It seems like it'd be hard to ever find another like it. I wasn't going to buy it, but when the guys were showing interest in the seller's stuff, I was like... Nope, gotta do it.
So I have a 6085 when it came out in 1985 and a DocuTech when it came out in 1990 (also when I was born). Pretty happy with that. :D
The Alps game isn't as brutal as Cherry can be, but if you're just trying to get by, it can still be pretty harsh. Especially when the piranhas start up a frenzy over blue alps.
I paid like $100 for my first Alps board, which was a Nan Tan/NTC 6151N with blue Alps that I got from someone off reddit. It was nice, but then I stupidly bricked it and ended up using its remains on the Infinity keyboard I had at the time.
I think Mattr is one of the luckiest in terms of finds online. $25 plus shipping is amazing for that Packard Bell. I might be pretty lucky too since I got my 4 DocuTechs for $80 plus shipping. They needed a good cleaning, but they were surprisingly not damaged in any way. If they were though, it would have given me a reason to desolder them. Instead, I just started becoming fascinated with them.
These last two Xerox boards though... :-\
I wasnt aware you had a beamspring, got any pictures?The Alps game isn't as brutal as Cherry can be, but if you're just trying to get by, it can still be pretty harsh. Especially when the piranhas start up a frenzy over blue alps.
I paid like $100 for my first Alps board, which was a Nan Tan/NTC 6151N with blue Alps that I got from someone off reddit. It was nice, but then I stupidly bricked it and ended up using its remains on the Infinity keyboard I had at the time.
I think Mattr is one of the luckiest in terms of finds online. $25 plus shipping is amazing for that Packard Bell. I might be pretty lucky too since I got my 4 DocuTechs for $80 plus shipping. They needed a good cleaning, but they were surprisingly not damaged in any way. If they were though, it would have given me a reason to desolder them. Instead, I just started becoming fascinated with them.
These last two Xerox boards though... :-\
Yes, persistence and knowing where to look is key here. Although... I will admit luck helps a lot too. :p
I think I paid about a total of $30 for my two 5140 boards, I think those have been my best Alps finds yet. My best best find has probably been those beam springs though.
Yes, persistence and knowing where to look is key here. Although... I will admit luck helps a lot too. :p
I think I paid about a total of $30 for my two 5140 boards, I think those have been my best Alps finds yet. My best best find has probably been those beam springs though.
If you dont want any more docutechs, you can direct the ones you find in the future to me :p
The Alps game isn't as brutal as Cherry can be, but if you're just trying to get by, it can still be pretty harsh. Especially when the piranhas start up a frenzy over blue alps.
I paid like $100 for my first Alps board, which was a Nan Tan/NTC 6151N with blue Alps that I got from someone off reddit. It was nice, but then I stupidly bricked it and ended up using its remains on the Infinity keyboard I had at the time.
I think Mattr is one of the luckiest in terms of finds online. $25 plus shipping is amazing for that Packard Bell. I might be pretty lucky too since I got my 4 DocuTechs for $80 plus shipping. They needed a good cleaning, but they were surprisingly not damaged in any way. If they were though, it would have given me a reason to desolder them. Instead, I just started becoming fascinated with them.
These last two Xerox boards though... :-\
Yes, persistence and knowing where to look is key here. Although... I will admit luck helps a lot too. :p
I think I paid about a total of $30 for my two 5140 boards, I think those have been my best Alps finds yet. My best best find has probably been those beam springs though.
I wasnt aware you had a beamspring, got any pictures?The Alps game isn't as brutal as Cherry can be, but if you're just trying to get by, it can still be pretty harsh. Especially when the piranhas start up a frenzy over blue alps.
I paid like $100 for my first Alps board, which was a Nan Tan/NTC 6151N with blue Alps that I got from someone off reddit. It was nice, but then I stupidly bricked it and ended up using its remains on the Infinity keyboard I had at the time.
I think Mattr is one of the luckiest in terms of finds online. $25 plus shipping is amazing for that Packard Bell. I might be pretty lucky too since I got my 4 DocuTechs for $80 plus shipping. They needed a good cleaning, but they were surprisingly not damaged in any way. If they were though, it would have given me a reason to desolder them. Instead, I just started becoming fascinated with them.
These last two Xerox boards though... :-\
Yes, persistence and knowing where to look is key here. Although... I will admit luck helps a lot too. :p
I think I paid about a total of $30 for my two 5140 boards, I think those have been my best Alps finds yet. My best best find has probably been those beam springs though.
That's a wonderful price for two 5140s, man. Yeah, it is about knowing where to look, either through flukes or finding untapped sources. Outside of my DocuTechs, the best finds I'd say I got was my Leading Edge DC-3014 for $75, my Acer KB101A for $89, and the NTC 6153EA, which I got for around $79 as a replacement for my bricked NTC 6151N. Blue Alps but QWERTZ with a short left shift but otherwise ANSI.
Those beamsprings though are deeeeefinitely your best find. I read up on some of the threads you posted in about them and it seems as though they can't easily be converted to PC, which sucks.
If so, then you're kind of in the same boat as I am with my Xerox boards. Rare, but unusable. I need to get a converter made for them. How many beamsprings did you end up with again?
I want one of those fake cherry looking alps boards. Only cause with a splash of cherry, all alps taste better :p :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :)) ^-^
I want one of those fake cherry looking alps boards. Only cause with a splash of cherry, all alps taste better :p :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :)) ^-^
but their stock is down:Its still trending higher than it was at the start of the day
https://www.google.com/search?q=alps&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=TYO:6770&stick=H4sIAAAAAAAAAOMQUOLSz9U3SM5OT4rPAgBPFWvGDgAAAAS
but their stock is down:
https://www.google.com/search?q=alps&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=TYO:6770&stick=H4sIAAAAAAAAAOMQUOLSz9U3SM5OT4rPAgBPFWvGDgAAAAS
but their stock is down:
https://www.google.com/search?q=alps&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=TYO:6770&stick=H4sIAAAAAAAAAOMQUOLSz9U3SM5OT4rPAgBPFWvGDgAAAAS
guess people don't like there current products xD
if you are reading this Alps electric - do the world a favour - make alps keyboard switches again :(
actually, if they do, the value of vintage alps switches will drop as they will be easier to get.
I want one of those fake cherry looking alps boards. Only cause with a splash of cherry, all alps taste better :p :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :)) ^-^
Three of them, this was a Craigslist find as well. I actually just went looking up stuff on the site on a whim and could not believe what I found under a really vague listing, "ibm computers" was literally what it was titled.
It was a local listing as well, which was fortunate, because no way the seller was going to ship the display terminals. Took a teeny bit of negotiating, I was away as well and had to convince the guy to drop off the display terminals at my house.
Yeah, it is a shame about them being pretty much unusable right now. At least the protocol for the Docutechs has been mapped out so I imagine you could get those up-and-running with a bit of know-how and effort.
Anyhow, I actually found what used to be my DC-2014 for about $60, so I am pretty happy about that too. And a kinda interesting story about the 5140s. That $30 was just for one actually. The other one I somehow ended up getting for free, I negotiated with a guy for a while, very friendly. He eventually mailed the board to me without requesting that I pay in advance, only afterwards if I found it satisfactory. So when it came, I asked him to invoice me, only, he never did. He seemed really nice though and was probably eager just to offload the thing.
I want to try and find another IIc so I can give Amber Alps a second chance, but they seem battened down at the moment. Prices aren't friendly. :P
I want to try and find another IIc so I can give Amber Alps a second chance, but they seem battened down at the moment. Prices aren't friendly. :P
Yeah, the tough thing about the IIc (and probably the 5140 too) is that one is likely competing against vintage computer collectors. That you have to find one with that particular model number as well makes things trickier still.
I still find it pretty hilarious how a member of a vintage computer collecting forum called one of us a "keyboard poacher" in an inquiry about beam springs. :P
I want to try and find another IIc so I can give Amber Alps a second chance, but they seem battened down at the moment. Prices aren't friendly. :P
Yeah, the tough thing about the IIc (and probably the 5140 too) is that one is likely competing against vintage computer collectors. That you have to find one with that particular model number as well makes things trickier still.
I still find it pretty hilarious how a member of a vintage computer collecting forum called one of us a "keyboard poacher" in an inquiry about beam springs. :P
Oh god, I just glanced back at my keyboards that are on display at the moment and saw them as animal head mounts and ivory tusks for a second. WHAT HAVE WE DONE!? :'(
Yeah, good point. Both the IIc and 5140 vary in price by a wide amount all the time on eBay. There was a 5140 complete set for like $2000 on eBay recently. :eek: I can definitely understand collectors being upset over people who just want the keyboards, though it's more understandable to me toward people who just take any board regardless of significance and butcher it for a build.
I think keeping the board in good shape isn't bad, but then they want to actually USE their computers and I'm sure that upsets the ones who have systems without proper keyboards.
I agree with you entirely there! I also had a DC-2014 that I didn't want to take apart either but eventually did since I was having no luck finding SKCL Greens for my backlit Alps board project in order to trade the blues for essentially NOS SKCL Greens out of a practically unused terminal board.
On that note, NOS doesn't always make a difference though, since I've felt comparatively smooth switches from used boards (typewriters at least).
It's funny that I've found more blue Alps than SKCL Green Alps, but I stopped looking for SKCL Green after a while. I was satisfied with what I had and didn't feel like collecting SKCL Green boards, pretty much. They were hard for me to find at first though and my Zenith Z-150 ended up having SKCL Yellow. They weren't bad, just not what I wanted.
I use a webcam for the typing videos and a Nokia phone for the reviews.
does any of you guys know if there are LEDs like those on Omnikey (101) available somewhere? I don't know anything about LEDs so I don't know if they are some standard ones, or are they custom with possibility of compatible ones existing.
The Alps game isn't as brutal as Cherry can be, but if you're just trying to get by, it can still be pretty harsh. Especially when the piranhas start up a frenzy over blue alps.Don't forget the Focus FK-727 with Cyan Omnom's I found! May not have been Alps but goddamn that thing was rare :eek: Also the Taobao goldmine I discovered :P
I paid like $100 for my first Alps board, which was a Nan Tan/NTC 6151N with blue Alps that I got from someone off reddit. It was nice, but then I stupidly bricked it and ended up using its remains on the Infinity keyboard I had at the time.
I think Mattr is one of the luckiest in terms of finds online. $25 plus shipping is amazing for that Packard Bell. I might be pretty lucky too since I got my 4 DocuTechs for $80 plus shipping. They needed a good cleaning, but they were surprisingly not damaged in any way. If they were though, it would have given me a reason to desolder them. Instead, I just started becoming fascinated with them.
These last two Xerox boards though... :-\
Tall flat green ones are on the IBM F AT, but those are even more rare than the Omnikey.
Don't forget the Focus FK-727 with Cyan Omnom's I found! May not have been Alps but goddamn that thing was rare :eek:
I actually had a 5140 in my sights on craigslist a long time ago. Turned out I was too late, and the guy's friend threw the 5140 away :( He was going to give it away for free to me.
I actually do have it. But I want a red and a blue LED to spruce things up a bit :)
Don't forget the Focus FK-727 with Cyan Omnom's I found! May not have been Alps but goddamn that thing was rare :eek: Also the Taobao goldmine I discovered :P
Your Docutech finds were great as well. Not common and usually go for $120+ each. You and that other guy are like the only ones who have 'em. The only way to get cheap 5140's is craigslist. Ebay people have sky high prices. The IIC less however.
I actually had a 5140 in my sights on craigslist a long time ago. Turned out I was too late, and the guy's friend threw the 5140 away :( He was going to give it away for free to me.
And I wonder what switches this guy has's. Google found nothing in the model number.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282140231906
All of these blue Alps boards are making me cry from jealousy, please stop triggering me.
Some day, I just like owning something so rare.All of these blue Alps boards are making me cry from jealousy, please stop triggering me.
I'm sure there are some people who wouldn't mind trading one for your Packard Bell. ;)
eBay can have high prices, but I got all my 5140 (6) there for $40-75 eachTriggered! Plz hide anything about brown alps for a while.
Some day, I just like owning something so rare.All of these blue Alps boards are making me cry from jealousy, please stop triggering me.
I'm sure there are some people who wouldn't mind trading one for your Packard Bell. ;)
I personally want to just buy some SKCM Blues and solder them into the Alphas of my V80 and put the board in a good case. I'll call it the Queensaver.
out of SKCM Blue and SKCM Green, what do you guys recommend? i know its gonna be a pain to get a board with these to the UK but i would like to get some opinions.I still prefer blue, personally. The feeling is quite different, though. The greens have an unmistakable, unique "rounded" feeling.
(yes, one is clicky and one is tactile so shhhhhhhhhhh)
i think this has been covered a lot here but i would like to know.
The caps on my v60 are ****ty, just pad printed abs. another issue with v60s and v80s is they have 1.25u mods, which are hard to find in alps.eBay can have high prices, but I got all my 5140 (6) there for $40-75 eachTriggered! Plz hide anything aboutMorebrown alpsfor a while.Some day, I just like owning something so rare.All of these blue Alps boards are making me cry from jealousy, please stop triggering me.
I'm sure there are some people who wouldn't mind trading one for your Packard Bell. ;)
I personally want to just buy some SKCM Blues and solder them into the Alphas of my V80 and put the board in a good case. I'll call it the Queensaver.
IIRC, the V80 PCB is compatible with Tex alu cases, just not sure what keyset would be worth of a QUEENSAVER.
How are the stock caps?
out of SKCM Blue and SKCM Green, what do you guys recommend? i know its gonna be a pain to get a board with these to the UK but i would like to get some opinions.
(yes, one is clicky and one is tactile so shhhhhhhhhhh)
i think this has been covered a lot here but i would like to know.
They're still ABS though, if you're going to be putting together a board that nice, you gotta go PBT. :cool:
Yeah, you're right. PBT alphanumerics with ABS modifiers would be a pretty good compromise, actually.This is what I have done on my contemporary V60 Matias boards and my Omnikey 101. IBM 5140 keyboards have excellent dye-sub PBT caps for alphanumerics, and I buy blank black ABS mods and spacebars from Matias. You can get 6.25x and 7.00x spacebars and 1.25x and 1.50x bottom-row caps from Matias in printed or blank black or white.
Old logo at101s are dyesub pbt. Other sources for dyesub pbt caps are SGI granite boards, Wang 724/725 series boards, and AEK/AEKII and some appledesign boards.Yeah, you're right. PBT alphanumerics with ABS modifiers would be a pretty good compromise, actually.This is what I have done on my contemporary V60 Matias boards and my Omnikey 101. IBM 5140 keyboards have excellent dye-sub PBT caps for alphanumerics, and I buy blank black ABS mods and spacebars from Matias. You can get 6.25x and 7.00x spacebars and 1.25x and 1.50x bottom-row caps from Matias in printed or blank black or white.
It would be great if someone would put together definitive information on sources of Alps-mount dye-sub PBT keycaps. Based on appearance and a pumice-like feel, I had thought that caps I had harvested from an old-logo Dell 101 and an Acer 6311 were dye-sub PBT, but the acetone test indicated that these caps were not PBT. Were any of these vintage caps made with some plastic other than ABS or PBT?
out of SKCM Blue and SKCM Green, what do you guys recommend? i know its gonna be a pain to get a board with these to the UK but i would like to get some opinions.
(yes, one is clicky and one is tactile so shhhhhhhhhhh)
i think this has been covered a lot here but i would like to know.
To be honest, SKCM Blue is just the most well-rounded switch that Alps has to offer. The others are just great selections in different areas, but blue owns the clicky side and is just overall very solid.
For typical tactiles, SKCM Cream or Orange is good. For the "topre" tactiles, both brown and green are similar, both are great, a bit stiff, but the bamboo ones are even more "rounded" and less tactile than the pines and SKCM Brown.
Old logo at101s are dyesub pbt. Other sources for dyesub pbt caps are SGI granite boards, Wang 724/725 series boards, and AEK/AEKII and some appledesign boards.Yeah, you're right. PBT alphanumerics with ABS modifiers would be a pretty good compromise, actually.This is what I have done on my contemporary V60 Matias boards and my Omnikey 101. IBM 5140 keyboards have excellent dye-sub PBT caps for alphanumerics, and I buy blank black ABS mods and spacebars from Matias. You can get 6.25x and 7.00x spacebars and 1.25x and 1.50x bottom-row caps from Matias in printed or blank black or white.
It would be great if someone would put together definitive information on sources of Alps-mount dye-sub PBT keycaps. Based on appearance and a pumice-like feel, I had thought that caps I had harvested from an old-logo Dell 101 and an Acer 6311 were dye-sub PBT, but the acetone test indicated that these caps were not PBT. Were any of these vintage caps made with some plastic other than ABS or PBT?
Old logo at101s are dyesub pbt. Other sources for dyesub pbt caps are SGI granite boards, Wang 724/725 series boards, and AEK/AEKII and some appledesign boards.Yeah, you're right. PBT alphanumerics with ABS modifiers would be a pretty good compromise, actually.This is what I have done on my contemporary V60 Matias boards and my Omnikey 101. IBM 5140 keyboards have excellent dye-sub PBT caps for alphanumerics, and I buy blank black ABS mods and spacebars from Matias. You can get 6.25x and 7.00x spacebars and 1.25x and 1.50x bottom-row caps from Matias in printed or blank black or white.
It would be great if someone would put together definitive information on sources of Alps-mount dye-sub PBT keycaps. Based on appearance and a pumice-like feel, I had thought that caps I had harvested from an old-logo Dell 101 and an Acer 6311 were dye-sub PBT, but the acetone test indicated that these caps were not PBT. Were any of these vintage caps made with some plastic other than ABS or PBT?
IIRC, not all old-logo AT101s are dyesubbed PBT. Only the first-gen Alps-manufactured ones are. Fortunately, they can be easily identified by their FCC ID.
Old logo at101s are dyesub pbt. Other sources for dyesub pbt caps are SGI granite boards, Wang 724/725 series boards, and AEK/AEKII and some appledesign boards.Yeah, you're right. PBT alphanumerics with ABS modifiers would be a pretty good compromise, actually.This is what I have done on my contemporary V60 Matias boards and my Omnikey 101. IBM 5140 keyboards have excellent dye-sub PBT caps for alphanumerics, and I buy blank black ABS mods and spacebars from Matias. You can get 6.25x and 7.00x spacebars and 1.25x and 1.50x bottom-row caps from Matias in printed or blank black or white.
It would be great if someone would put together definitive information on sources of Alps-mount dye-sub PBT keycaps. Based on appearance and a pumice-like feel, I had thought that caps I had harvested from an old-logo Dell 101 and an Acer 6311 were dye-sub PBT, but the acetone test indicated that these caps were not PBT. Were any of these vintage caps made with some plastic other than ABS or PBT?IIRC, not all old-logo AT101s are dyesubbed PBT. Only the first-gen Alps-manufactured ones are. Fortunately, they can be easily identified by their FCC ID.
Not even. You just need to look at the country of manufacture. If it's made in the USA, it's going to have salmon Alps and PBT caps. None of the Taiwanese AT101s have PBT and the one Japanese one I've seen with a US layout had doubleshot ABS and black switches.
The earliest serial numbers of the US made ones also had double shot Alps-made key caps, but those are incredibly unlikely to find. No idea what switches they used, but likely SKCM black, I bet.
Oh wow, thanks for the clarification then.
Hm, going by the DT wiki then, it is correct to assume that AT101s with FCC ID GYIAT101-102 also have PBT dye subs? The wiki does not specify this, but it does have Salmon Alps and is made in the US.
none - IBM 5140
Yeah, that would be exactly my assessment as well. I think it's very hard to go wrong with blue. And orange is fantastic as well, under-appreciated compared to blue, but still, it's not clicky xD . Pine greens feel almost like salmons IMO, not quite the same, but not as distinctly different as the bamboo greens. Those guys are a whole different kettle of fish.out of SKCM Blue and SKCM Green, what do you guys recommend? i know its gonna be a pain to get a board with these to the UK but i would like to get some opinions.
(yes, one is clicky and one is tactile so shhhhhhhhhhh)
i think this has been covered a lot here but i would like to know.
To be honest, SKCM Blue is just the most well-rounded switch that Alps has to offer. The others are just great selections in different areas, but blue owns the clicky side and is just overall very solid.
For typical tactiles, SKCM Cream or Orange is good. For the "topre" tactiles, both brown and green are similar, both are great, a bit stiff, but the bamboo ones are even more "rounded" and less tactile than the pines and SKCM Brown.
Yeah, that would be exactly my assessment as well. I think it's very hard to go wrong with blue. And orange is fantastic as well, under-appreciated compared to blue, but still, it's not clicky xD . Pine greens feel almost like salmons IMO, not quite the same, but not as distinctly different as the bamboo greens. Those guys are a whole different kettle of fish.out of SKCM Blue and SKCM Green, what do you guys recommend? i know its gonna be a pain to get a board with these to the UK but i would like to get some opinions.
(yes, one is clicky and one is tactile so shhhhhhhhhhh)
i think this has been covered a lot here but i would like to know.
To be honest, SKCM Blue is just the most well-rounded switch that Alps has to offer. The others are just great selections in different areas, but blue owns the clicky side and is just overall very solid.
For typical tactiles, SKCM Cream or Orange is good. For the "topre" tactiles, both brown and green are similar, both are great, a bit stiff, but the bamboo ones are even more "rounded" and less tactile than the pines and SKCM Brown.
Yeah, it makes sense what you're saying, reason I said salmon is probably because I don't have any brown boards yet xD . I only have three main colour Alps keyboards to go, I think xD.Yeah, that would be exactly my assessment as well. I think it's very hard to go wrong with blue. And orange is fantastic as well, under-appreciated compared to blue, but still, it's not clicky xD . Pine greens feel almost like salmons IMO, not quite the same, but not as distinctly different as the bamboo greens. Those guys are a whole different kettle of fish.out of SKCM Blue and SKCM Green, what do you guys recommend? i know its gonna be a pain to get a board with these to the UK but i would like to get some opinions.
(yes, one is clicky and one is tactile so shhhhhhhhhhh)
i think this has been covered a lot here but i would like to know.
To be honest, SKCM Blue is just the most well-rounded switch that Alps has to offer. The others are just great selections in different areas, but blue owns the clicky side and is just overall very solid.
For typical tactiles, SKCM Cream or Orange is good. For the "topre" tactiles, both brown and green are similar, both are great, a bit stiff, but the bamboo ones are even more "rounded" and less tactile than the pines and SKCM Brown.
The pine SKCM Green feel closest to SKCM Brown, in my opinion. When I get that NIB Xerox 6085 with browns, I can do a direct comparison against its younger brethren to see just how different they feel, but comparing my FMJ Alps board (aluminum-cased 60% w/ carbon fiber plate) and a DocuTech doesn't seem too balanced.
I can get what you're saying in terms of tactility. It's strong and similar to Salmon, but the Salmon reset immediately after the slider passes the tactile bump, while the leaves in both brown and green have more of a curve that extends far down into the travel. So it it feels like a chunkier switch because the tactile spring is pushing against that slider for most of the travel.
Salmons feel hollow in comparison, imo.
The top housings affecting tactility like that is really strange though. I put pines in bamboo housings and bamboo in pine housings and they felt identical to each other when swapped like that. The bamboos felt just like pines with pine tops from salmon Alps swapped on.
Yeah, it makes sense what you're saying, reason I said salmon is probably because I don't have any brown boards yet xD . I only have three main colour Alps keyboards to go, I think xD.
Sharp used scoops for the X68K
thanks for the advice. i think i will try and get blues. only problem is that they are impossible to get in the UK.
I used to have a IIgs with orange alps. I loved it but sold it because
!. Made some profit
2. Needed the teensy
3. No rollover.
to add onto this, my packard bell has really crappy rollover, barely any 3+ combinations work.I used to have a IIgs with orange alps. I loved it but sold it because
!. Made some profit
2. Needed the teensy
3. No rollover.
The M0116 has really crappy rollover too. Unsuitable for stuff like gaming.
Thats a real shame, especially since its a linear board.to add onto this, my packard bell has really crappy rollover, barely any 3+ combinations work.I used to have a IIgs with orange alps. I loved it but sold it because
!. Made some profit
2. Needed the teensy
3. No rollover.
The M0116 has really crappy rollover too. Unsuitable for stuff like gaming.
For me, key rollover is everything. As much as I loved orange alps, it made me hate the board. If I get round to my perfect alps build, I will specifically look for key rollover.Most customs have nkro capability, so youll be good there. are you interested in a 60% custom? if so hasu's alps64 pcb supports nkro and is fully programmable. The only readily available tkl pcb for alps/matias is the kbp v80, it also supports nkro.
By custom, i mean putting switches of my choice in a vintage board. Also out of curiosity, what is plate compatibility like?. Lets say I solder my alps switch of choice into an AT101W plate, will the at101w plate fit any other cases? I could have it like a sleeper car (a really crappy car that has a very powerful engine in) (basically a stock at101w with blues)if I were you I wouldnt bother with an at101w. desoldering them is a real ***** because silitek had the great idea of bending over the legs of the switches. If I was to swap switches I would start with a northgate omnikey.
By custom, i mean putting switches of my choice in a vintage board. Also out of curiosity, what is plate compatibility like?. Lets say I solder my alps switch of choice into an AT101W plate, will the at101w plate fit any other cases? I could have it like a sleeper car (a really crappy car that has a very powerful engine in) (basically a stock at101w with blues)if I were you I wouldnt bother with an at101w. desoldering them is a real ***** because silitek had the great idea of bending over the legs of the switches. If I was to swap switches I would start with a northgate omnikey.
They shouldnt be all that out of reach, atleast across the pond they arent. I paid about 70$ for mine shipped to my door.By custom, i mean putting switches of my choice in a vintage board. Also out of curiosity, what is plate compatibility like?. Lets say I solder my alps switch of choice into an AT101W plate, will the at101w plate fit any other cases? I could have it like a sleeper car (a really crappy car that has a very powerful engine in) (basically a stock at101w with blues)if I were you I wouldnt bother with an at101w. desoldering them is a real ***** because silitek had the great idea of bending over the legs of the switches. If I was to swap switches I would start with a northgate omnikey.
If I could afford an omnikey :p
I think if I can get some white alps, I will do the fk2001 for my first custom.
I used to have a IIgs with orange alps. I loved it but sold it becauseNO rollover! You mean it can't detect ANY keypresses simultaneously?! :p
!. Made some profit
2. Needed the teensy
3. No rollover.
If you lived in the good ol' ye olde England, you would feel our struggle.Not impossible mate, just be assertive, I'm sure you can do it :) .
Same with my Packard Bell. Can't press arrow up, shift and x at the same time for example on BeamNG for shifting. Other than gaming the rollover doesn't have an effect. Wonder if it would be possible to do a bit of extra hand wiring to bypass the issue actually. Don't want to touch this thing with a Soldering Iron at all though.to add onto this, my packard bell has really crappy rollover, barely any 3+ combinations work.I used to have a IIgs with orange alps. I loved it but sold it because
!. Made some profit
2. Needed the teensy
3. No rollover.
The M0116 has really crappy rollover too. Unsuitable for stuff like gaming.
That would still be impossible unless you added a teensy to the equation. the original controller was only designed for 2kro.Same with my Packard Bell. Can't press arrow up, shift and x at the same time for example on BeamNG for shifting. Other than gaming the rollover doesn't have an effect. Wonder if it would be possible to do a bit of extra hand wiring to bypass the issue actually. Don't want to touch this thing with a Soldering Iron at all though.to add onto this, my packard bell has really crappy rollover, barely any 3+ combinations work.I used to have a IIgs with orange alps. I loved it but sold it because
!. Made some profit
2. Needed the teensy
3. No rollover.
The M0116 has really crappy rollover too. Unsuitable for stuff like gaming.
But the shipping is ridiculous. Guess I gotta stick to my SMKs and black alps :pwow, you werent kidding. I just took a quick look through ebay.co.uk and I am even more thankful I live in the USA now.
My model m clone that came from taobao had no diodes.
I have tried to low ball sellers to get stuff for cheaper but it doesn't work. This is why I need to move to the USA. :p
My model m clone that came from taobao had no diodes.
Snap, there we go. I was wondering that because it looked like it on the Deskthority thread, unless they had several versions.I have tried to low ball sellers to get stuff for cheaper but it doesn't work. This is why I need to move to the USA. :p
I was blissfully hopeful when I first started my search for blue Alps boards, that I could find them for as low as $50, but I still haven't ever gotten one that cheap, and the average price I was paying was like, $100 for them.
I was happy to not pay $100 for the DC-2014 I bought. I feel that is too expensive for such a common model, but that's me being cheap, I guess. xP I snagged mine for $85. I actually got the DC-3014 for $5 less.
Switched to my SGI Granite w/ SKCM Orange from the Packard as my daily. Missed that solid PBT tactile sensation. Refreshing.
The Packard went with the rest of them in storage. Keep all of them faceup in a closed closet (no yellowing, although my SGI spacebar is a bit yellowed again :() with nothing on them besides their cables, and I try to keep that at a minimum.
I wrote a lengthy explanation on why this happens on DT, basically retrobright can't undo the damage to the plastic which leaves it vulnerable to attack by molecular oxygen.Switched to my SGI Granite w/ SKCM Orange from the Packard as my daily. Missed that solid PBT tactile sensation. Refreshing.
The Packard went with the rest of them in storage. Keep all of them faceup in a closed closet (no yellowing, although my SGI spacebar is a bit yellowed again :() with nothing on them besides their cables, and I try to keep that at a minimum.
I've actually seen some of my DocuTechs seemingly get a slight bit yellow again after storing them away. I RB'd them twice. After the second time the 1997 hasn't, but maybe it's because I had it on display.
It's probably because our central AC unit broke three months ago. Even though my room was never steaming hot (used a window unit, but it wasn't too great at cooling the whole room), it might've gotten the boards to reyellow a little. Finally got the AC unit replaced though and it's frigid in here, so hopefully that doesn't happen again.
Only the parts that were formerly yellow did this. The boards I have with no yellowing didn't yellow at all, or the parts on the DocuTechs that weren't yellow to begin with.
I wrote a lengthy explanation on why this happens on DT, basically retrobright can't undo the damage to the plastic which leaves it vulnerable to attack by molecular oxygen.
Heat hastens all processes, so definitely, yeah.I wrote a lengthy explanation on why this happens on DT, basically retrobright can't undo the damage to the plastic which leaves it vulnerable to attack by molecular oxygen.
I did read that, actually, but it'd take a few more reads to really sink in every detail. :P
Would you say that heat hastens the process of reyellowing? Are all retrobrighted keyboards truly destined to become yellowed again? Some of my boards haven't reyellowed as of now, but I have heard that it typically happens in the span of a few years.
It DEFINITELY seems like the yellowed (ie damaged) plastic is all that reyellows and not the plastic that never suffered it in the first place, though the UV treating that comes with retrobrighting worries me slightly when it comes to the plastic that hasn't yellowed being exposed.
I've actually never had old electronics yellow on me in my time of owning things like the SNES and others that were prone to it (even the gamecube's front bezel, I've heard). I've only ever received yellowed electronics in the way of vintage keyboards. :rolleyes:
Heat hastens all processes, so definitely, yeah.
The reason only the yellowed portions re-yellow again is because that's where the plastic is most damaged. I'm also pretty certain the treatment itself isn't exactly good for the plastic, either.
Yeah, it makes sense what you're saying, reason I said salmon is probably because I don't have any brown boards yet xD . I only have three main colour Alps keyboards to go, I think xD.
Haha, yeah. I understand that. The lineage of SKCM brown is really strange to think about. It was what seems to be the first tactile Alps switch and then it went on up to 1989 and its unique force curve was continued on with SKCM green which continued into the late 90s at least. Still curious to see how long DocuTech keyboards were actually produced. 1998 is our latest date as of yet.Sharp used scoops for the X68K
Those were ABS, right?
Just transplant in the switch type of your choice:
ABS. Also still need Lime and Brown Alps, those have stayed out of reach.
ABS. Also still need Lime and Brown Alps, those have stayed out of reach.
Did you manage to snag some brown linear boards?
No worries :) .Heat hastens all processes, so definitely, yeah.
The reason only the yellowed portions re-yellow again is because that's where the plastic is most damaged. I'm also pretty certain the treatment itself isn't exactly good for the plastic, either.
That makes sense. Yeah, I've read that a certain museum decided against retrobrighting as a method for restoration because of how it weakens the plastic further.
Two questions for you, my expert chemist friend:
1) Is it at all possible to halt or prevent the reyellowing, or is it inevitable?
2) I'm not sure if you have, but do you forego retrobrighting because of this, or have you ever thought of doing it?
It's a shame, since the plastics look so much nicer with that fresh, new look. I wonder how much exposure to heat/UV led to the yellowing in the first place. It's so common to see yellowed boards from the '80s.
I know I've seen some yellowed Focus boards, but I can't recall many of those ever being too yellowed. Does the yellowing have to do mostly with different formulations used for the plastics?
The AT101W is an excellent keyboard, the 2nd-best Alps chassis to receive your switches. It is well-built, sturdy, and feels great to type on. If you don't have a Northgate, Dell is the way to go. I have done it more than once.
Sometimes, the assembler got a little impulsive and bent over way too many legs (5%-10% is plenty) which makes removing the old ones much harder than it needs to be.
And the black cases are more desirable, but the AT101 is an awesome keyboard and not to be dismissed.
people seem to think that i should use a slightly better keyboard.
the plate is very rusty so i am going to sand it down and paint it.
The only reason I advised against using an at101w was the folded over switch legs, never said anything about the build quality
i know i was told not to use a dell AT101W to swap switches, but i am doing it!.It's a pain to desolder all the switches because the pins on ALL of them are bent in the AT101, but the board is one of the better Alps chassis around, and certainly the most forthcoming.
What is a good cleaning solution/method to clean the SKCL Green housings? Alcohol with a q tip and warm soapy water soak for a couple of hours hasn't cut it. Have a ton of switches from my China haul to put back together. Right now I have about 45 SKCM Blues that are fully restored. The blues are ready to put back together its just that summer is over i'm quite busy again. Will pick that up at a later point.I am in pretty much the same boat. I have about 35 out of my 200 or so blues fully restored. The ones that are finished feel very nice though.
I fixed and cleaned the fake Model M finally. The key feel is terrible as the key caps are too high. It's become very stiff when the press is not directly going downward.
It's surprising that the board is NKRO but the repeat rate will slow down quite a bit. While I use USB adapter, the board will downgrade to 6KRO but the repeat rate will back to normal.
I may try to de-solder the chip and change to Northgate Omnikey's one next week to see the difference.
ED2914: What is the "fake Model M"? Could you give some details about this board?
ED2914: What is the "fake Model M"? Could you give some details about this board?
Unicomp, maybe?
ED2914: What is the "fake Model M"? Could you give some details about this board?
Unicomp, maybe?
No there are some Alps boards found in China that are modeled to look like IBM Model M boards. Speaking of which, I'll get my hands on mine this week, I just got them forwarded to my new place and they are nearby now.
In this thread a while back, there was a Chinese user who also had a blue alps Model M, (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg1433506#msg1433506) what are the quality of the caps? Cherry is great in respect to accommodating off center presses and high profile keysets.
In this thread a while back, there was a Chinese user who also had a blue alps Model M, (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg1433506#msg1433506) what are the quality of the caps? Cherry is great in respect to accommodating off center presses and high profile keysets.
While the caps might play a factor, I'm a little doubtful of this. In my experience, it's the switch top housings that create binding. Replacing those with fresh top housings restores a smooth feel where off-center presses pose no problems. I used to think Alps had an off-center issue too, but then I realized it was the switches' condition.
Finished my Brown Alps board! Pretty fun build and great keyboard to use:WannnnnnnttttShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/GrKwYAa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NCwpEpE.jpg)
Brief build log here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=84246.0
Finished my Brown Alps board! Pretty fun build and great keyboard to use:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GrKwYAa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NCwpEpE.jpg)
Brief build log here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=84246.0
Finished my Brown Alps board! Pretty fun build and great keyboard to use:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GrKwYAa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NCwpEpE.jpg)
Brief build log here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=84246.0
SOO MUCH ENTER.
I actually like this alot. Very unique.
what kind of shape are the browns in?
I like the enter key.
It's like a big-ass enter key wearing a girdle.
Teehee :D . Nice board btw! :)SOO MUCH ENTER.
I actually like this alot. Very unique.
what kind of shape are the browns in?
The browns are in pretty good shape, there was practically no dust in the switches even before I cleaned up the housings.I like the enter key.
It's like a big-ass enter key wearing a girdle.
I like it a lot too! I suppose it's more of a 'slim'-ass Enter, reminds me of the BAEs on some vintage Apple boards like the M0116.
I think I can understand why Chyros like BAE layouts. ;D
Just finished putting together an Infinity using Salmon Alps harvested from an Apple M0116. This is my first try with Alps. I love the way they sound, but the switch is very stiff, almost mushy, compared to the clears and zeals I'm more used to. Prior to soldering, I opened up every switch and brushed them out, although they were all pretty clean. Is that typical for Salmons to feel much stiffer than cherry clears?
I think I can understand why Chyros like BAE layouts.
Teehee
What about the Northgate layout then?
I think I can understand why Chyros like BAE layouts.
Teehee
Bigass Enter does not bother me in the slightest, and I even kind of like the way it looks.
What kills the deal for me is 1u Backspace and split Shift keys, because I habitually use the "other side" of those keys.
What about the Northgate layout then?
That's just an ANSI layout, I kinda meant the one with the bigass enter, fullsize backspace and the extra keys between ctrl and alt (as opposed to a split right shift). That one circumvents the small backspace and split shift :) .
What about the Northgate layout then?
The only Northgate that I keep is the 101. I just wish that there was a 101+ that had left function keys. I had hoped that Northgate had done like IBM and built a circuit board that had switch locations to make various layouts possible, but, alas, no.
I kinda meant the one with the bigass enter, fullsize backspace and the extra keys between ctrl and alt (as opposed to a split right shift).
That one circumvents the small backspace and split shift .
Sorry, I seem to have misremembered. I thought this layout was present on some Northgates, but it appears they ALL had the split right shift apart from the 101. The layout I mean is actually another Focus layout (not the one generally referred to as THE Focus layout):
I kinda meant the one with the bigass enter, fullsize backspace and the extra keys between ctrl and alt (as opposed to a split right shift).
That one circumvents the small backspace and split shift .
I'm not sure that I have ever had one of those. What model is it? I don't think that I have ever had a later one with Windows keys.
@emdude: Nice custom board! What was your source of brown Alps? Are they SKCM tactile browns?
I have a 60% custom SKCM brown Alps board with a stainless steel plate. The person who built the board told me that the switches are from a Videowriter 250. I had typed on a Videowriter and on an IBM 5140, both with SKCM tactile brown Alps, and the switches felt just fine in their native boards. However, these switches in the custom 60% board feel very stiff and unyielding. I attribute this to the rigid stainless steel plate.
I'm typing now on my Northgate Omnikey 101. I like the sound and feel of this board very much, and I seem to type faster and more accurately on it than on other Alps-switch boards. It also looks fairly good with the Tai-Hao Dolch keycaps. However, I wish I could shrink it to 60% or even TKL! (But maybe it needs a long plate and PCB to enable it to flex a bit -- if I could shrink the Omnikey to 60%, I wonder if it would feel too stiff and unyielding?).
Just finished putting together an Infinity using Salmon Alps harvested from an Apple M0116. This is my first try with Alps. I love the way they sound, but the switch is very stiff, almost mushy, compared to the clears and zeals I'm more used to. Prior to soldering, I opened up every switch and brushed them out, although they were all pretty clean. Is that typical for Salmons to feel much stiffer than cherry clears?
Probably feels mushy from when you opened it up.
@emdude: I don't know the thickness of the stainless steel plate in my custom brown Alps 60% board. From what I can see on the edge, it looks like the plate might be thicker than 1.0 mm. If I should decide to take it out of its aluminum case, I will try to remember to measure the thickness of the plate and let you know.
On my brown Alps 60%, I have installed IBM 5140 dye-sub PBT alphanumerics, blank black ABS mods and spacebar from Matias, and a red doubleshot ABS Esc from SP. The IBM 5140 dye-sub PBTs are my favorites for alpha keys on Alps-mount keyboards.
In the meantime, I am really enjoying my Northgate Omnikey 101. The more I type on it, the more I like it. The main drawback is that I much prefer either a 60% or TKL form factor. I also like to use a HHKB layout -- I can achieve the layout nearly enough through remapping, but I can't readily change the size of the keyboard!
Next project -- I am going to change the color of the Omnikey 101 top case after I round up the necessary items.
@emdude: I don't know the thickness of the stainless steel plate in my custom brown Alps 60% board. From what I can see on the edge, it looks like the plate might be thicker than 1.0 mm. If I should decide to take it out of its aluminum case, I will try to remember to measure the thickness of the plate and let you know.As for painting omnikey cases, do you remember when I painted my avant prime case beige to hide yellowing? It still looks good. The cases will accept paint nicely if you want to go that route.
On my brown Alps 60%, I have installed IBM 5140 dye-sub PBT alphanumerics, blank black ABS mods and spacebar from Matias, and a red doubleshot ABS Esc from SP. The IBM 5140 dye-sub PBTs are my favorites for alpha keys on Alps-mount keyboards.
In the meantime, I am really enjoying my Northgate Omnikey 101. The more I type on it, the more I like it. The main drawback is that I much prefer either a 60% or TKL form factor. I also like to use a HHKB layout -- I can achieve the layout nearly enough through remapping, but I can't readily change the size of the keyboard!
Next project -- I am going to change the color of the Omnikey 101 top case after I round up the necessary items.
Regarding changing the color of the Omnikey 101 top case, it seems there are four ways of coating and/or coloring keyboard cases and/or plates:
+ Powder coat -- Fine for metals, but generally the required temperatures are too high for most polymers. Requires specialized equipment.
+ Paint -- Okay for metals. For polymers, the solvent type needs to be compatible with the particular plastic. Good for DIY.
+ Cerakote -- Can be used on metals or plastics. The thin coating does not require high-temperature curing. Requires specialized equipment.
+ Vinyl dye -- For polymers and some fabrics. Penetrates into the plastic; does not build up into a thick coating. Seems more forgiving than paint.
I've gotten some excellent advice on all these methods from various people, including XMIT and Fohat. Putting it all together, I think I am going to try vinyl dye. Fohat recommended Dupli-Color, which he says is actually a thin coating rather than a dye, but it appears to use the same application methods as other products that go under the classification of vinyl dyes, such as the vinyl coloring products made by SEM and VHT.
I hope to get to this project during the next couple of weeks.
I think SEM or VHT would work quite well, though I have heard that SEM can potentially rub off and is more of a layer. I know Wingpad has experience with VHT. I myself would try VHT if I were dyeing a case or attempting to dye an ABS space bar (again). What I used for my Orion's space bar to make it black was using acetone in a solution with water and dye to allow it to penetrate the ABS at a low temperature and closely monitored it with a digital thermometer.
I think SEM or VHT would work quite well, though I have heard that SEM can potentially rub off and is more of a layer. I know Wingpad has experience with VHT. I myself would try VHT if I were dyeing a case or attempting to dye an ABS space bar (again). What I used for my Orion's space bar to make it black was using acetone in a solution with water and dye to allow it to penetrate the ABS at a low temperature and closely monitored it with a digital thermometer.
I heard my name... you rang? Can confirm that VHT works well on ABS. Feel free to ask me anything about my experience. It has actually kept well over the last couple of months.
Here's a question, good sir.
Can ABS be dyed with VHT without the legends becoming obscured? Is it possible to dye in lighter shades of the same color or does it always amount to the same intensity. Say for more greyish blacks or lighter blues and what not.
I also tested my blues, which seem to be not in the best condition. Not bad like some whites I had, but could be smoother I guess. They actuate at 15 coins.Do you weigh the specific coins you used on a balance? How many switches do you test per board? Also, do you try to gently re-seat coins after you stacked them?
The difference between the switches is visible when pushing one slider against the other. At first, blue slider gives in, but right before it is about to actuate, amber starts giving in and actuates first. I am wondering if anyone can reproduce it, or it's just my blues giving too much resistance around the actuation point.
I'll play around with switching the housings when I catch time to see if there is any difference.
Do you weigh the specific coins you used on a balance? How many switches do you test per board? Also, do you try to gently re-seat coins after you stacked them?
Yeah, they are usually cited as 80-100 gf but that's bull****, someone just had a dirty board. I've found it to be quite consistent at 75 gf.
Hi ALPS fans, I'm new here. I've been interested in getting an Atreus with either Matias clicky or quiet click, but I'm worried that it'll be heavy, since I hate hate hate scissors switches (62-5g?). But on the other hand, I know ALPS can be lubed and stuff even without desoldering, so thats a plus. Right now I'm deciding between ALPS Atreus or HHKB. What do you think I should go for?Matias switches aren't exactly the same as Alps, but they're related for sure. Neither are known for being particularly light switches tbh xD . I'd advise against lubricating Alps and similar switches as no-one has found a lube that really works well with them yet.
Do you use only nickels or smaller coins too? I try to use different combinations of coins to narrow it down to as small a range (1-2 g) as possible. The heavy weigh of the blues you mentioned is really weird, it's much higher than we have on record, are they in good condition?Do you weigh the specific coins you used on a balance? How many switches do you test per board? Also, do you try to gently re-seat coins after you stacked them?
Well, for blues I tested bare switches, since I don't have them in the board yet. Haven't weighed the coins, but I always use the same set of nickels, and they shouldn't deviate much from 5g as they are specified. I also try to get the stack as straight as possible and as level as possible. I tested some 10 amber switches, and for blues, I took out just random 3 out of the bag.
I'd advise against lubricating Alps and similar switches as no-one has found a lube that really works well with them yet.
Do you use only nickels or smaller coins too? I try to use different combinations of coins to narrow it down to as small a range (1-2 g) as possible. The heavy weigh of the blues you mentioned is really weird, it's much higher than we have on record, are they in good condition?
@Chyros: Wow! Six significant figures! ;)One one occasion I actually used the lab balance calibration weights xD . They're the kind that are so precise you need to wear them with gloves, because the weight of your fingerprints can upset them.
A trick I've used is to stack my US nickles within the paper tubes that you get get at banks. This keeps the stack straight and prevents coins from toppling. You can weigh the paper if you like to include its contribution to the total weight.
Thanks! It's nice to have some hard numbers as a reference. If you catch time, could you do the same with the blues?I could, but haven't bothered, because someone measured them with an actual force meter :) .
Wow, those blues at ~62gf seem quite light. I kind of selfishly wanted you to do the measurement in the exact same conditions and equipment as for ambers, to have results as comparable as possible ;DYes, of course the best comparisons are between measurements conducted under the same conditions. Normally I'm satisfied using that force graph or the Alps catalog, but because there isn't one for amber Alps, and Daniel B's measured 80-100 gf was clearly bull**** (or at least, didn't apply to my switches), I conducted them myself :) . Essentially I wanted to bring to attention that they're slightly heavier than other Alps switches, but nowhere near as ridiculous as their reputation says.
I bet the ambers would have the bump on the left side of that chart. Do we know why the blacks and creams have two bumps instead of one? In programmer terms, is it a (condition-related) bug or a feature of the design? :)
Edit: I guess oranges and whites have the same second bump, but it is not as pronounced, and linears also have what corresponds to a second bump in clickys and tactiles.
While the caps might play a factor, I'm a little doubtful of this. In my experience, it's the switch top housings that create binding. Replacing those with fresh top housings restores a smooth feel where off-center presses pose no problems. I used to think Alps had an off-center issue too, but then I realized it was the switches' condition.
Interesting, I just now messed around with AEK alphas and F-Row keycaps on a few different boards in various condition. My quick n' dirty tests seemed line up with what you were saying. When pressing off center, condition played a big role and the key's profile added to the problem.
SKCM Green - same as above
Yeah, I'm not sure why the switches supposedly rated at 70 gf bottomed at 65g. Blues, according to the data card with SKCM Cream, are supposed to have an "operating force" of 70 gf, so I'm not sure if the official material can even be too trusted. They are much lighter than 70 gPretty sure the instruments Alps used are a lot more accurate than the ones Silencium has :p . I mainly just use the graph comparatively :) .
SKCM Green - same as above
And this is the same for pine and bamboo?
Pretty sure the instruments Alps used are a lot more accurate than the ones Silencium has :p . I mainly just use the graph comparatively :) .
@Chyros: Regarding precision mass detection, in my analytical chemistry lab course, if we made mistakes, the instructor banished us from the Mettler balances and we had to go back to the twin-pan analytical balances we initially trained on. These relics were actually quite sensitive, and the twin pan made it easy to see that you were actually comparing masses. I recall handling the weights with ivory-tipped forceps. The more advanced twin-pan balances were "Chain-o-Matics" -- you could turn a crank to dial in the last decimal by altering the fraction of a hanging gold chain contributing its mass to the right-hand side of the balance. I also had occasion to use a Cahn microbalance -- capable of a sensitivity of 0.1 microgram.Yes, that's actually the balance I use as well, a Mettler Toledo, the top-of-the-line massively expensive self-calibrating ones they use at GSK :) .
Thanks for displaying the force-displacement curves for Alps switches. I wish the creators of such graphs would keep color-blind people in mind. I am not really color blind, just color challenged -- I have difficulty seeing the difference between certain colors or correctly identifying some colors against certain background colors. It helps me if color figures can be interpreted correctly when they are rendered in gray scale.
This morning I checked out my Zenith Z-150 black label with linear green Alps. The switches are very smooth but I prefer some tactile feedback. I had also hoped that the steel back on the case would make the Zenith feel more solid to type on than my Leading Edge DC-2014, but it didn't feel more solid to me. In addition, a major disappointment was that there was one dead key on the board -- the C key. I haven't determined the cause as yet. BTW, which "green" Alps are in the Z-150?
Among Alps switches that I have tried thus far, my favorites are still the white Alps in my Northgate Omnikey 101 -- they have an ideal combination of weight, crisp tactility, and subtle clickiness.
On the force-displacement graph, I am having trouble distinguishing the white curve from the cream curve. Do the initial peaks correspond to actuation? Which one has the sharp spike versus smooth curve at the initial peak, and which one has the "aftershock" peaks? The initial peak for blues appears later than that for several of the others -- is this difference significant and does it correspond to different actuation points? If I am interpreting all this correctly, perhaps one reason I like whites better than blues is that I prefer a higher actuation point.
The first bump is the tactile event, I think the second one is the contact leaf which imparts a small amount of tactility to ALL Alps switches. This is why there is a small tactile bump even on linears and two tactile bumps on tactile and clicky switches.
Hi ALPS fans, I'm new here. I've been interested in getting an Atreus with either Matias clicky or quiet click, but I'm worried that it'll be heavy, since I hate hate hate scissors switches (62-5g?). But on the other hand, I know ALPS can be lubed and stuff even without desoldering, so thats a plus. Right now I'm deciding between ALPS Atreus or HHKB. What do you think I should go for?Matias switches aren't exactly the same as Alps, but they're related for sure. Neither are known for being particularly light switches tbh xD . I'd advise against lubricating Alps and similar switches as no-one has found a lube that really works well with them yet.Do you use only nickels or smaller coins too? I try to use different combinations of coins to narrow it down to as small a range (1-2 g) as possible. The heavy weigh of the blues you mentioned is really weird, it's much higher than we have on record, are they in good condition?Do you weigh the specific coins you used on a balance? How many switches do you test per board? Also, do you try to gently re-seat coins after you stacked them?
Well, for blues I tested bare switches, since I don't have them in the board yet. Haven't weighed the coins, but I always use the same set of nickels, and they shouldn't deviate much from 5g as they are specified. I also try to get the stack as straight as possible and as level as possible. I tested some 10 amber switches, and for blues, I took out just random 3 out of the bag.
Thanks mate :D .Hi ALPS fans, I'm new here. I've been interested in getting an Atreus with either Matias clicky or quiet click, but I'm worried that it'll be heavy, since I hate hate hate scissors switches (62-5g?). But on the other hand, I know ALPS can be lubed and stuff even without desoldering, so thats a plus. Right now I'm deciding between ALPS Atreus or HHKB. What do you think I should go for?Matias switches aren't exactly the same as Alps, but they're related for sure. Neither are known for being particularly light switches tbh xD . I'd advise against lubricating Alps and similar switches as no-one has found a lube that really works well with them yet.Do you use only nickels or smaller coins too? I try to use different combinations of coins to narrow it down to as small a range (1-2 g) as possible. The heavy weigh of the blues you mentioned is really weird, it's much higher than we have on record, are they in good condition?Do you weigh the specific coins you used on a balance? How many switches do you test per board? Also, do you try to gently re-seat coins after you stacked them?
Well, for blues I tested bare switches, since I don't have them in the board yet. Haven't weighed the coins, but I always use the same set of nickels, and they shouldn't deviate much from 5g as they are specified. I also try to get the stack as straight as possible and as level as possible. I tested some 10 amber switches, and for blues, I took out just random 3 out of the bag.
OMG THOMAS REPLIED
Nice vids man
Thanks for the reply :D I think I might go the (t)horny pathy of HHKB cult
You notice it on all Alps switches, but almost unconsciously on linear ones.The first bump is the tactile event, I think the second one is the contact leaf which imparts a small amount of tactility to ALL Alps switches. This is why there is a small tactile bump even on linears and two tactile bumps on tactile and clicky switches.
This is quite noticeable on Cream Damped switches (which I assume is what 'Cream' is referring to on the graph?), and it's probably why SKCM Blacks are considered to feel rather rough too.
Out of curiosity, do you notice the tactility from the contact leaf on linearised Blacks?
The Z-150 has linear green Alps, not tactile neon green Alps.
The first bump is the tactile event, I think the second one is the contact leaf which imparts a small amount of tactility to ALL Alps switches. This is why there is a small tactile bump even on linears and two tactile bumps on tactile and clicky switches.
Some people say the chassis impacts the keyfeel but I haven't noticed any difference there. I have a bunch of white Alps boards in great, similar condition, in a variety of chassis, but they all feel pretty comparable. The age and condition is a much greater factor. The chassis will considerably impact the typing noise though, obviously.
The reason I think the neon greens feel so stiff is because the tactile bump is all right at the top. The official force curve (ironic that we know so much of such a rare switch) shows it's 70 gf just like the rest so I think it's more the SHAPE of the feeling than the actual weight of it tbh.
We don't know if the neon greens in the catalog are pine or bamboo, but it's from 1994, so I guess they'd be bamboo, right?
I do get kind of annoyed when people say that only Alps has this tactile kind of issue where the contact leaf creates minute tactility. Cherry MX is similar in that the stem has to overcome a small bump in the contact leaf in order to close the contacts, so Cherry isn't really any different there. It shouldn't be anyway.
Another complaint on Alps is key cap wobble, when Cherry has pretty much the same amount of wobble itself. :P
I do get kind of annoyed when people say that only Alps has this tactile kind of issue where the contact leaf creates minute tactility. Cherry MX is similar in that the stem has to overcome a small bump in the contact leaf in order to close the contacts, so Cherry isn't really any different there. It shouldn't be anyway.Well Cherry force curves show that they don't have a similar dimple:
Thanks for the clarification of colors and interpretation of peaks on the Alps force-displacement curves.Have a look through my Alps cleaning tutorial, it shows how I do it:
I think I've found and cured the issue with the non-responsive C key on my Zenith Z-150. Apparently it was a dirty switch. I opened it, cleaned it with 70% isopropanol, dried it, blew it out with canned air for good measure, and reasembled it. Now the switch works.
BTW, removing the switch top was a breeze, thanks to the handy Alps switch tool that I bought from "mrbishop". However, putting the switch back together is much more of a challenge, because the spring falls out if you try reassembly with the switch in the normal position. I had to hold the keyboard at a right angle to the bench and gingerly ease the switch top back on. Any tips about how to reassemble Alps switches would be most welcome!
I''ve also discovered the little chirp in the Z-150 that I've read about. At first, I immediately deactivated it using Esc+Alt, but now I've turned it back on. The novelty may soon wear thin, but for the moment, I enjoy the auditory feedback that is lacking in the green Alps switches. The sound is reminiscent of the chirping control panels on the Enterprise in STNG.
It would be good if someone were to define "wobble" precisely and do quantitative measurements of this property of various switches.
However, that's not to say that such a bump is a disadvantage. In fact, I blame the fact that they're so linear for the well-known boring nature of the switch — in truth they are really ghastly dull Oo .
Wobble is another thing that's often misrepresented and over-de-hyped, sadly I suspect I'm part of the cause as it suddenly became a big topic right after I posted my Matrox video in which I showed that Space Invaders have virtually no wobble. Wobble is generally harmless and can actually be beneficial however — the only issue is when the slider wobbles AND the switch has no room for this, in which case you get binding. On designs in which there is room for that, wobble can actually PREVENT binding. Ironically, although Space Invaders have the least wobble of ANY switch I've ever seen, they can bind, even on small keys, with dirty or well-used boards, because the slider and case have so much contact area that any slight nonorthogonal force causes friction unless the switch is in pristine condition.It would be good if someone were to define "wobble" precisely and do quantitative measurements of this property of various switches.
So far, I've only seen wobbling being a complaint when it came to Matias switches. Perhaps it has to do with the construction of the switchplate (single-pronged contact leaf)?
@Chyros: Thanks for re-posting your video. It was most helpful for putting the switch back together -- which was the part that was troubling me.Yeah I'd love to give it a go, I've heard good things :) .
As for taking off the top of the switch, i would highly recommend the Plexiglass (Perspex) tool made and sold by "mrbishop". I think the version I have might have been dubbed the "Alps Trident":
(Attachment Link)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=79766.0;nowap
This thing really works! Push down, pull up, the switch top come off neatly attached to the tool. I think that E3E has made a similar tool, but I do not have that one.
I got in my i-Rocks Fun keyboard today with their blue, clicky switches. I am not sure what I was expecting but they're really weird. The clicking noise is different from both Cherry and Alps switches (although it's closer to Cherry switches) and it's rather annoying. The key feel is pretty decent, though, somewhere in between White and Salmon Alps if I had to try and place it. Very tactile and responsive. Since they are weighted at 45g they're rather light, and I'm hoping to compare them to 'lightened' Blues at some point (once sprit's Alps springs GB comes along). I'll try and throw together a typing demonstration but I don't have a nice camera with me so it'll probably be crappy. Feel free to ask me anything.
It would be good if someone were to define "wobble" precisely and do quantitative measurements of this property of various switches.
So far, I've only seen wobbling being a complaint when it came to Matias switches. Perhaps it has to do with the construction of the switchplate (single-pronged contact leaf)?
is that 45g actuation or bottom? You could take some springs from Alps SKCL Green or Alps SKCM Brown if you want to toy with a lighter weight in the blues.
but the money could be better spent on an Omnikey to swap Blue Alps into
but the money could be better spent on an Omnikey to swap Blue Alps into
Getting a nice Omnikey is step 1. Work outwards from the core.
Orange Alps is a great easy quick choice for the initial project, and then when and if you find a baggie full of blues (or whatever else you fancy) at some point in the future, transplant again.
Since you will not be bending over any legs, the subsequent soldering projects will be easy and painless (more so if you opt for real old-fashioned nasty lead solder).
I finally managed to try a whole board of MX Browns today, the tactility wasn't as weak as I thought it would be, but they felt rough as late black Alps. It did make me want to try Zealios or MX Clears.
Finding the Omnikey is the only thing I need to do since I have several baggies of nice Blue Alps (I posted a picture of 'em a while back (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg2223222#msg2223222)).
Also, I have a nice Orange Alps board since my AT101W swap is complete. Pictures of that will be coming in once I pick up the bottom row keycaps from storage (aka my parents' basement). EDIT: It'll look a lot like the Pearl/Pebble board you posted here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg2244910#msg2244910).
Love the look of the Dell. Makes me think of some kind of military keyboard with the sandy caps on the black case.Well if you really love the look of the Dell that much... I'd be happy to trade ;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/laCYs2K.jpg)
Did that with my Orion a while back, but the big bezel on the Dell kind of gives it that look.
Also, if you do ever decide you want to swap new switches into the customized Omnikey, you can always top swap if you don't want to deal with desoldering and soldering in new switches again. Quick and dirty but it works.Yeah, I could do that but I probably won't; I don't mind soldering/desoldering since it's a good way for me to unwind. Also, I prefer the way the long, gray switchplates look (which is completely irrational because you can't see them once it's all put together).
Well if you really love the look of the Dell that much... I'd be happy to trade ;)
Yeah, I could do that but I probably won't; I don't mind soldering/desoldering since it's a good way for me to unwind. Also, I prefer the way the long, gray switchplates look (which is completely irrational because you can't see them once it's all put together).
EDIT: Plus, if I ever get an Omnikey put together I would rather avoid "quick n' dirty" solutions since it's something I would send on tour.
This, once the top housing go its hard to fix.I'd advise against lubricating Alps and similar switches as no-one has found a lube that really works well with them yet.
It's those damn top housings. Once they go, they're incredibly hard to restore. It's better to salvage tops off of good condition common boards than to try and clean and lubricate them; that only goes so far in my experience.
I'm still not sure what causes the wear to the tops in the first place, as I've seen clean switches that still have binding and it all comes from the tops. IMO, the top housings account for a majority of the feel in terms of condition, even beyond the sliders.
This, once the top housing go its hard to fix.
My Taobao SKCL Greens have this, and its bad. My Taobao SKCM Blues seemly don't. They restore pretty nicely. Although not as nice as my Packard Bell thats for sure.
Yea, I really don't want to do that if I don't have to. Plus with SKCM housings (and yellows?) you lose the long tabs plus a few other differences.This, once the top housing go its hard to fix.
My Taobao SKCL Greens have this, and its bad. My Taobao SKCM Blues seemly don't. They restore pretty nicely. Although not as nice as my Packard Bell thats for sure.
A kind of ghetto fix would be to use SKCM housings from a common keyboard in good condition on the linears, though that's kind of awkward.
SKCL Yellow boards might not be as highly regarded as SKCL Green ones, but they're also not significantly cheaper, and that'd be the best source of spare SKCL tops so you can fully restore the feel of the SKCL Greens.
Yea, I really don't want to do that if I don't have to. Plus with SKCM housings (and yellows?) you lose the long tabs plus a few other differences.
A little while back someone offered me in this thread a bunch of extra SKCL top housings, it was the guy with the clicky green alps 60%.
Am interested in them :)
since it's something I would send on tour.
Haha thats me. I can send them to you, shoot me a PM. Maybe we can arrange a trade.Yea, I really don't want to do that if I don't have to. Plus with SKCM housings (and yellows?) you lose the long tabs plus a few other differences.This, once the top housing go its hard to fix.
My Taobao SKCL Greens have this, and its bad. My Taobao SKCM Blues seemly don't. They restore pretty nicely. Although not as nice as my Packard Bell thats for sure.
A kind of ghetto fix would be to use SKCM housings from a common keyboard in good condition on the linears, though that's kind of awkward.
SKCL Yellow boards might not be as highly regarded as SKCL Green ones, but they're also not significantly cheaper, and that'd be the best source of spare SKCL tops so you can fully restore the feel of the SKCL Greens.
A little while back someone offered me in this thread a bunch of extra SKCL top housings, it was the guy with the clicky green alps 60%.
Am interested in them :)
@Chyros: Thanks for re-posting your video. It was most helpful for putting the switch back together -- which was the part that was troubling me.
As for taking off the top of the switch, i would highly recommend the Plexiglass (Perspex) tool made and sold by "mrbishop". I think the version I have might have been dubbed the "Alps Trident":
(Attachment Link)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=79766.0;nowap
This thing really works! Push down, pull up, the switch top come off neatly attached to the tool. I think that E3E has made a similar tool, but I do not have that one.
After using my SKCM Brown board for a bit, I am starting to think that the harsh bottoming-out is more of an issue than the somewhat stiff tactility. I tried swapping in some Cream Damped sliders from my SGI and it actually feels pretty good; I have not tried Topre, but I wonder if this is the Alps version of 'being one with the cup rubber.' :rolleyes:
So, I guess I will try to get some Cream/White Damped switches. Don't want to steal sliders from the SGI just for this.
After using my SKCM Brown board for a bit, I am starting to think that the harsh bottoming-out is more of an issue than the somewhat stiff tactility. I tried swapping in some Cream Damped sliders from my SGI and it actually feels pretty good; I have not tried Topre, but I wonder if this is the Alps version of 'being one with the cup rubber.' :rolleyes:
So, I guess I will try to get some Cream/White Damped switches. Don't want to steal sliders from the SGI just for this.
The dampened cream switch Wingpad sent me was also a bit underwhelming. It kind of felt like SKCM Black but just slightly less rough and tactile.
I'd be far too paranoid to ever send my keyboards on a touring trip, mainly out of shipping mishaps than other GHers. Oh yes, I wouldn't settle for anything less than a switch with long switch plates as a base if I was planning on doing several top swaps. I always imagined that they help the feel a bit, perhaps a bit more solid, but who knows. It's probably minuscule at best.I am willing to try and send the hypothetical board for a tour, I think people could enjoy it if a similar thing made another round. If I build it within the school year I won't have a helluva' lot of time to use it myself anyway, haha.
Soldering is pretty chill though, I get you. Hot swapping entire switches is fun though. ;)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49604.msg1318608#msg1318608 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49604.msg1318608#msg1318608)
You all are missing the point. The Omnikey has now been tested to be bird and glass proof. If *that isn't* a sign of how amazing this keyboard is, I don't know what else is. We pretty much had Hoffman shoot a turkey and glass at it like it was an aircraft engine and it survived. Now *that's* keyboard science.
unmodded skcm creams (not dampened cream) are my current favorite switch. overall a great and honestly underrated switch.Ever since our meetup, I have been trying to get my hands on some of these and found an amazing deal for two NeXT boards for $35; however, both came with Pine SKCM Blacks :( Although I actually kind of like the feeling of the cleaner board, they feel different than any of the other SKCM blacks I have tried before and, in fact, it's rather noticeable. I don't quite know how to explain it but they're smoother and bouncier?
After using my SKCM Brown board for a bit, I am starting to think that the harsh bottoming-out is more of an issue than the somewhat stiff tactility. I tried swapping in some Cream Damped sliders from my SGI and it actually feels pretty good; I have not tried Topre, but I wonder if this is the Alps version of 'being one with the cup rubber.' :rolleyes:
So, I guess I will try to get some Cream/White Damped switches. Don't want to steal sliders from the SGI just for this.
I use click modded creams, and they are very tactile after the mod, before that there were very underwhelming.
with the mod I can say they are much stiffer than topre, and obviously the click makes it very different as well.
The dampened cream switch Wingpad sent me was also a bit underwhelming. It kind of felt like SKCM Black but just slightly less rough and tactile.
My SKCM Cream Damped from my old AEKII was not very rough at all, nothing like SKCM Black. A couple of other specimens I have are. I think some of the roughness could be down to condition. My modded SKCM White Damped which I sold off (dampers removed) felt very smooth in fact but hollow compared to lets say SKCM Orange.After using my SKCM Brown board for a bit, I am starting to think that the harsh bottoming-out is more of an issue than the somewhat stiff tactility. I tried swapping in some Cream Damped sliders from my SGI and it actually feels pretty good; I have not tried Topre, but I wonder if this is the Alps version of 'being one with the cup rubber.' :rolleyes:
So, I guess I will try to get some Cream/White Damped switches. Don't want to steal sliders from the SGI just for this.
I use click modded creams, and they are very tactile after the mod, before that there were very underwhelming.
with the mod I can say they are much stiffer than topre, and obviously the click makes it very different as well.The dampened cream switch Wingpad sent me was also a bit underwhelming. It kind of felt like SKCM Black but just slightly less rough and tactile.
I was curious whether the rough feeling of Cream Damped (and likely Black) switches was due to the design of the tactile leaf, or perhaps the contact leaf, as Chyros suggested; Maybe the contact leaf of short switchplates were just shoddily constructed.
So, initially I linearised a Cream Damped switch and was surprised by how relatively unnoticeable the bump from the contact leaf was. Then, I performed a transplant of a Cream Damped switch (slider, tactile leaf, and top housing) into a switch with a long, grey switchplate; the result was a similar, if not identical, feeling of roughness. This was a pretty unscientific test and it would be nice to have had a force gauge or something to quantify this, but it seems that the tactile leaf was just badly designed.
In any case, yeah, hot swapping would be awesome but I dunno' if it would be possible to make an Omnikey hot-swappable... unfortunately. Well anything is possible it's just a matter of would it be practical to make an Omnikey hot-swappable.
unmodded skcm creams (not dampened cream) are my current favorite switch. overall a great and honestly underrated switch.
I was curious whether the rough feeling of Cream Damped (and likely Black) switches was due to the design of the tactile leaf, or perhaps the contact leaf, as Chyros suggested; Maybe the contact leaf of short switchplates were just shoddily constructed.
After using my SKCM Brown board for a bit, I am starting to think that the harsh bottoming-out is more of an issue than the somewhat stiff tactility. I tried swapping in some Cream Damped sliders from my SGI and it actually feels pretty good; I have not tried Topre, but I wonder if this is the Alps version of 'being one with the cup rubber.' :rolleyes:Do the brown Alps housings support the dampened sliders? =o
So, I guess I will try to get some Cream/White Damped switches. Don't want to steal sliders from the SGI just for this.
I have to say, the click mod made them pretty satisfying to type on, just... different
Its like a heavier to actuate, and quieter Cherry MX green
Haha, I was just teasing a little bit, but you're right. I initially tested out a holtite socket on my old bricked NTC 6151N PCB, and the PCB cracked while trying to insert the socket. It's fine on modern PCBs, but I don't think the old one-sided PCBs are resilient enough to take the stress the sockets put on it.
Ever since our meetup, I have been trying to get my hands on some of these and found an amazing deal for two NeXT boards for $35; however, both came with Pine SKCM Blacks :( Although I actually kind of like the feeling of the cleaner board, they feel different than any of the other SKCM blacks I have tried before and, in fact, it's rather noticeable. I don't quite know how to explain it but they're smoother and bouncier?
My NeXT board has an ansi enter and SKCM Creams.Ever since our meetup, I have been trying to get my hands on some of these and found an amazing deal for two NeXT boards for $35; however, both came with Pine SKCM Blacks :( Although I actually kind of like the feeling of the cleaner board, they feel different than any of the other SKCM blacks I have tried before and, in fact, it's rather noticeable. I don't quite know how to explain it but they're smoother and bouncier?
Chyros had a video review comparing blacks from an early old-logo AT101 and ones from the later models, and also mentioned that the difference was like night and day. I assume the ones in the NeXT board are the same as the ones in the early Dell. Did both of your NeXT boards have an ANSI enter? I think creams only come in ones with BAE.
Just picked up this Zenith 163-73, in nearly unused condition. It's very pleasant to type on, the yellow alps are very smooth, and the buzzer on each keypress is an interesting substitute for the lack of tactility (I've only used clicky switches before). The PBT caps are also very nice.Awesome find! :D (Nearly) unused is how you want your Alps :D . The biggest difference between green and yellow is the weighting - greens are ca. 50 gf, yellows ca. 60 gf. I don't have a yellow Alps board yet, but from what I can tell off of other linear(ised) Alps, greens are disproportionally appreciated. I'm pretty sure ALL linear Alps will feel great if in great condition.
It seems the ZKB-2(R) is more desirable as it has greens - is there much of difference between the green and yellow linears?
(Attachment Link)
I have to say, the click mod made them pretty satisfying to type on, just... different
Its like a heavier to actuate, and quieter Cherry MX green
I haven't tried MX greens, but that sounds really heavy to me. Sounds interesting.
As for click-modding, I only did that with two switches - SKCM black on an Esc key on a Dell AT101W which I didn't like at all, and SKCM Orange on Power on AEK which was quite nice.Haha, I was just teasing a little bit, but you're right. I initially tested out a holtite socket on my old bricked NTC 6151N PCB, and the PCB cracked while trying to insert the socket. It's fine on modern PCBs, but I don't think the old one-sided PCBs are resilient enough to take the stress the sockets put on it.
Thanks for sharing this. I was mulling doing this with an Omnikey 101, but in the end decided not to, it'd be too nerve-wrecking. This just confirms it :)Ever since our meetup, I have been trying to get my hands on some of these and found an amazing deal for two NeXT boards for $35; however, both came with Pine SKCM Blacks :( Although I actually kind of like the feeling of the cleaner board, they feel different than any of the other SKCM blacks I have tried before and, in fact, it's rather noticeable. I don't quite know how to explain it but they're smoother and bouncier?
Chyros had a video review comparing blacks from an early old-logo AT101 and ones from the later models, and also mentioned that the difference was like night and day. I assume the ones in the NeXT board are the same as the ones in the early Dell. Did both of your NeXT boards have an ANSI enter? I think creams only come in ones with BAE.
Haha, I was just teasing a little bit, but you're right. I initially tested out a holtite socket on my old bricked NTC 6151N PCB, and the PCB cracked while trying to insert the socket. It's fine on modern PCBs, but I don't think the old one-sided PCBs are resilient enough to take the stress the sockets put on it. They are more proper for dual or multilayer PCBs too. Since the pads are on the bottom of the old ones, I'm not sure if the sockets would even make contact without you using some conductive ink to finish the job. They're more meant to chew into the vias of a PCB.Haha, I figured as much. Good to know that it isn't feasible with an older, single-layer PCB; I wasn't expecting it to be. When I said anything is possible I meant fabbing a new plate/PCB combo that supports hot-swapping.
Do the brown Alps housings support the dampened sliders? =oYeah, there's actually a video of it floating around somewhere. EDIT: Here is the link. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ-vLMMEyGg)
Chyros had a video review comparing blacks from an early old-logo AT101 and ones from the later models, and also mentioned that the difference was like night and day. I assume the ones in the NeXT board are the same as the ones in the early Dell. Did both of your NeXT boards have an ANSI enter?Yes, they are the same switches. New logo AT101's can come with Bamboo switches but I think all of the old logo ones are Pines.
Eh, I think that boils down to just a single model of AT101 actually, the old-logo '97SK, which is also the one I did the video on. Those pine black Alps are, no contest, nowhere near the same as bamboo ones, they're MUCH better.Chyros had a video review comparing blacks from an early old-logo AT101 and ones from the later models, and also mentioned that the difference was like night and day. I assume the ones in the NeXT board are the same as the ones in the early Dell. Did both of your NeXT boards have an ANSI enter?Yes, they are the same switches. New logo AT101's can come with Bamboo switches but I think all of the old logo ones are Pines.
Eh, I think that boils down to just a single model of AT101 actually, the old-logo '97SK, which is also the one I did the video on. Those pine black Alps are, no contest, nowhere near the same as bamboo ones, they're MUCH better.So old logo AT101s can come with Bamboo Blacks?? I should clarify, what I meant is that all old logo AT101s that come with SKCM Blacks have Pine switches. I know most use SKCM Salmon switches.
Regarding changing the color of the Omnikey 101 top case, it seems there are four ways of coating and/or coloring keyboard cases and/or plates:
+ Powder coat -- Fine for metals, but generally the required temperatures are too high for most polymers. Requires specialized equipment.
+ Paint -- Okay for metals. For polymers, the solvent type needs to be compatible with the particular plastic. Good for DIY.
+ Cerakote -- Can be used on metals or plastics. The thin coating does not require high-temperature curing. Requires specialized equipment.
+ Vinyl dye -- For polymers and some fabrics. Penetrates into the plastic; does not build up into a thick coating. Seems more forgiving than paint.
I've gotten some excellent advice on all these methods from various people, including XMIT and Fohat. Putting it all together, I think I am going to try vinyl dye. Fohat recommended Dupli-Color, which he says is actually a thin coating rather than a dye, but it appears to use the same application methods as other products that go under the classification of vinyl dyes, such as the vinyl coloring products made by SEM and VHT.
I hope to get to this project during the next couple of weeks.
So old logo AT101s can come with Bamboo Blacks?? I should clarify, what I meant is that all old logo AT101s that come with SKCM Blacks have Pine switches. I know most use SKCM Salmon switches.
Figured as much. Good to know that it isn't feasible with an older, single-layer PCB; I wasn't expecting it to be. When I said anything is possible I meant fabbing a new plate/PCB combo that supports hot-swapping.
No, what I mean is that there is only one old-logo AT101 model that doesn't come with salmons, which is the '97SK one, which has pine black Alps. It was the first model Silitek made for Dell when production was moved away from the US and Japan. It appears that the production of the new-logo version was concomitant with a redesign or update that included the newer bamboo model of black Alps. Silitek must have bought millions of these switches from Alps as they kept on making these boards years into simplified Alps territory, I own one from 2001 Oo .Eh, I think that boils down to just a single model of AT101 actually, the old-logo '97SK, which is also the one I did the video on. Those pine black Alps are, no contest, nowhere near the same as bamboo ones, they're MUCH better.So old logo AT101s can come with Bamboo Blacks?? I should clarify, what I meant is that all old logo AT101s that come with SKCM Blacks have Pine switches. I know most use SKCM Salmon switches.
That's certainly easier than trying to keep track of particular FCC IDs.Nah, you get used to it. Especially when you've had them all xD .
That's certainly easier than trying to keep track of particular FCC IDs.Nah, you get used to it. Especially when you've had them all xD .
You can kind of remember the chronological order by inverse number size of the FCC ID. First was 101, then 97, then 95, then 92, then 90. Salmon Alps and PBT caps, pine black Alps and UV-printed caps, bamboo black Alps, windows keys, lasered caps.That's certainly easier than trying to keep track of particular FCC IDs.Nah, you get used to it. Especially when you've had them all xD .
I only really kept in mind one FCC ID (now two I guess) for the old logo AT101s, but I often get things mixed-up and have to double-check the DT wiki or some thread just to be sure.
This is also the case when I'm looking at a keyboard that may have used different switches in its lifetime. Kinda tricky and I don't want to end up with a board that has Mitsumis instead of Alps or whatever.
Thanks for the additional ways to change the color of a keyboard case.Regarding changing the color of the Omnikey 101 top case, it seems there are four ways of coating and/or coloring keyboard cases and/or plates:
+ Powder coat -- Fine for metals, but generally the required temperatures are too high for most polymers. Requires specialized equipment.
+ Paint -- Okay for metals. For polymers, the solvent type needs to be compatible with the particular plastic. Good for DIY.
+ Cerakote -- Can be used on metals or plastics. The thin coating does not require high-temperature curing. Requires specialized equipment.
+ Vinyl dye -- For polymers and some fabrics. Penetrates into the plastic; does not build up into a thick coating. Seems more forgiving than paint.
I've gotten some excellent advice on all these methods from various people, including XMIT and Fohat. Putting it all together, I think I am going to try vinyl dye. Fohat recommended Dupli-Color, which he says is actually a thin coating rather than a dye, but it appears to use the same application methods as other products that go under the classification of vinyl dyes, such as the vinyl coloring products made by SEM and VHT.
I hope to get to this project during the next couple of weeks.
To add on to this, you could hydro-dip or vinyl wrap as well.
Niiice, that looks sick as heck! What'd you use for the bottom row keys?Thanks for the additional ways to change the color of a keyboard case.Regarding changing the color of the Omnikey 101 top case, it seems there are four ways of coating and/or coloring keyboard cases and/or plates:
+ Powder coat -- Fine for metals, but generally the required temperatures are too high for most polymers. Requires specialized equipment.
+ Paint -- Okay for metals. For polymers, the solvent type needs to be compatible with the particular plastic. Good for DIY.
+ Cerakote -- Can be used on metals or plastics. The thin coating does not require high-temperature curing. Requires specialized equipment.
+ Vinyl dye -- For polymers and some fabrics. Penetrates into the plastic; does not build up into a thick coating. Seems more forgiving than paint.
I've gotten some excellent advice on all these methods from various people, including XMIT and Fohat. Putting it all together, I think I am going to try vinyl dye. Fohat recommended Dupli-Color, which he says is actually a thin coating rather than a dye, but it appears to use the same application methods as other products that go under the classification of vinyl dyes, such as the vinyl coloring products made by SEM and VHT.
I hope to get to this project during the next couple of weeks.
To add on to this, you could hydro-dip or vinyl wrap as well.
I decided to go with Dupli-color for vinyl in a burgundy red. I've posted the pics in the following threads:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=83918.msg2249799#msg2249799
https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/northgate-omnikey-101-skcm-white-alps-t14376-30.html#p326691
And for convenience here:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Yeah, instead of wasting so many space bars trying to dye them, I would've totally used a Matias bar if I had known they'd work with Alps stabs. The cruciform mount seemed iffy. Hypersphere, does a key cap set come with the stab inserts and wire or do you need to buy those separately? I'd assume for a better business model, they'd separate them. :-XMine uses alps stabs.
Does the Omnikey's space bar use cruciform Cherry stabs or traditional Alps? My Focus FK-555 uses Cherry stabs in the plate for the space bar.
Do those space bars have mounts for the plungers?That's a fairly uncommon type of spacebar btw, with rods AND sliding wire stabs. I found that out when I needed one and it turned out none of mine are like that xD .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NFmrBYL.jpg)
I've noticed that space bars without them are annoyingly rattly.
Do those space bars have mounts for the plungers?That's a fairly uncommon type of spacebar btw, with rods AND sliding wire stabs. I found that out when I needed one and it turned out none of mine are like that xD .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NFmrBYL.jpg)
I've noticed that space bars without them are annoyingly rattly.
Same. My Packard Bell, SGI, NeXT and my FK-3001 has rods and wire stabs.Do those space bars have mounts for the plungers?That's a fairly uncommon type of spacebar btw, with rods AND sliding wire stabs. I found that out when I needed one and it turned out none of mine are like that xD .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NFmrBYL.jpg)
I've noticed that space bars without them are annoyingly rattly.
That's interesting, I thought it was the norm. All of my Alps boards had those or something like it, including my AEK, SGI, for example.
That's a fairly uncommon type of spacebar btw, with rods AND sliding wire stabs. I found that out when I needed one and it turned out none of mine are like that xD .
That's interesting, I thought it was the norm. All of my Alps boards had those, including the AEK.
@emdude: No, the Matias spacebars do not have mounts for the stabilizing plungers.
If I recall correctly, I used the Matias spacebar wire and put the mounting clips that go into the Cherry cruciform mounts with their openings facing toward the back of the keyboard. This orientation and the lack of plungers made it much easier to install the spacebar than was the case with the stock spacebar.
Same. My Packard Bell, SGI, NeXT and my FK-3001 has rods and wire stabs.
The 3001 actually has TWO rods + wire. Feels better.
Sorry, I should have been more specific, with two rods and sliding stabilisers and in 7u xD .Same. My Packard Bell, SGI, NeXT and my FK-3001 has rods and wire stabs.Do those space bars have mounts for the plungers?That's a fairly uncommon type of spacebar btw, with rods AND sliding wire stabs. I found that out when I needed one and it turned out none of mine are like that xD .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NFmrBYL.jpg)
I've noticed that space bars without them are annoyingly rattly.
That's interesting, I thought it was the norm. All of my Alps boards had those or something like it, including my AEK, SGI, for example.
The 3001 actually has TWO rods + wire. Feels better.
Oh, well yea thats a lot less common. As E3E said Focus and some Dell AT101/W's has two rods.Sorry, I should have been more specific, with two rods and sliding stabilisers and in 7u xD .Same. My Packard Bell, SGI, NeXT and my FK-3001 has rods and wire stabs.Do those space bars have mounts for the plungers?That's a fairly uncommon type of spacebar btw, with rods AND sliding wire stabs. I found that out when I needed one and it turned out none of mine are like that xD .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NFmrBYL.jpg)
I've noticed that space bars without them are annoyingly rattly.
That's interesting, I thought it was the norm. All of my Alps boards had those or something like it, including my AEK, SGI, for example.
The 3001 actually has TWO rods + wire. Feels better.
Blue Alps from the recycling centre, it is possible! :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tTTS98Q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1teygcf.jpg)
They're in pretty good nick tbh :) . Not as pristine as the Acer obviously, but definitely representative of blue Alps :) .Blue Alps from the recycling centre, it is possible! :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tTTS98Q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1teygcf.jpg)
Wow, nice find! That looks super clean, too :thumb: How do they feel?
They're in pretty good nick tbh :) . Not as pristine as the Acer obviously, but definitely representative of blue Alps :) .Awesome, what kind of board did you find them in? Definitely something with a BAE, haha
Yes, it has a BAE, but the layout is rather bizarre, I' don't think I've ever seen something like it before Oo . Should make a nice review :D .They're in pretty good nick tbh :) . Not as pristine as the Acer obviously, but definitely representative of blue Alps :) .Awesome, what kind of board did you find them in? Definitely something with a BAE, haha
EDIT: That bottom row is rather distinctive though, it looks like it only has one set of modifiers (whereas a normal board would have two, ctrl-alt).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSpeed-EL-PC-16-02-Untested-As-Is/262590869926?_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140109102600%26meid%3D8372a73b249342d2a198d45755e447fa%26pid%3D100041%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D35%26sd%3D222230897652 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSpeed-EL-PC-16-02-Untested-As-Is/262590869926?_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140109102600%26meid%3D8372a73b249342d2a198d45755e447fa%26pid%3D100041%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D35%26sd%3D222230897652)
correct me if Im wrong, but those really look like alps caps to me. wondering what switches are in there. The pop up cap is also really interesting.
aww, I was gonna buy it :'( lmao if you really want it I wont bid.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSpeed-EL-PC-16-02-Untested-As-Is/262590869926?_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140109102600%26meid%3D8372a73b249342d2a198d45755e447fa%26pid%3D100041%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D35%26sd%3D222230897652 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSpeed-EL-PC-16-02-Untested-As-Is/262590869926?_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140109102600%26meid%3D8372a73b249342d2a198d45755e447fa%26pid%3D100041%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D35%26sd%3D222230897652)
correct me if Im wrong, but those really look like alps caps to me. wondering what switches are in there. The pop up cap is also really interesting.
The Lock Keys definitely look very Alps-esque. If it goes without bids I might throw one on there just to see what's under those caps.
aww, I was gonna buy it :'( lmao if you really want it I wont bid.Haha, like I said I would only be interested if it went without bids; I just want to see someone in the keyboard community grab it so we can learn about it. In other words, if you're planning on bidding on it that would be enough for me.
@Chyros: Do you have some sort of keyboard superpower that guides you to these incredible finds? It isn't fair to us mere mortals.
Yes, it has a BAE, but the layout is rather bizarre, I' don't think I've ever seen something like it before Oo . Should make a nice review :D .
@emdude: I agree with your assessment of SKCM brown Alps. Based on trying these switches in an IBM 5140 and a Magnavox Videowriter 250, I had thought that these swtiches would be delightfully tactile and perfect for a custom 60% board. However, when I received the custom board, I was quite surprised at how heavy the swtiches felt. It is fun to type on, but it gets fatiguing after a while.
When I tested the brown Alps in the IBM and Videowriter, the keyboards were not actively connected to a working computer. I find that I do not get the full impression of a keyboard unless I can see the letters on the screen and test my speed and accuracy along with the feel and sound of the keys. Isolated switch testers are even worse -- almost completely useless for me.
I admire your skill in grafting the spacebar post. I expect if I tried this it would not end up standing vertically. I am also not a fan of these stabilizer posts. I can usually get by with just the stabilizer wire and the center switch with a red O-ring on the switch.
Actually, I am not a fan of stabilizers, period. Somewhere on my long to-do list is to make a custom build of a 60% with no stabilized keys at all, including the spacebar. The HHKB Pro 2 is almost there with only three stabilized keys: Enter, Left Shift, and Spacebar. I almost never use the Left Shift, and for either shift key, all I need is 1.25x. Same with Enter -- 1.25x would be ample. For the Spacebar, I have never tried the maximum size for an unstabilzed key, which I think is 1.75x, but this might be pushing it. I would probably need two of these -- one under each thumb.
The caps lock and bigass right bracket key look very zenithy to me
Honestly just go out and look around everywhere, and don't accept no for an answer. You'd be surprised! ;)@Chyros: Do you have some sort of keyboard superpower that guides you to these incredible finds? It isn't fair to us mere mortals.
It's called having a damn good recycling center near by as well as good finds from his uni, haha. I get jealous too, Chyros! :P
No, I haven't, though I'd like to try those and Matias Clicks at some point. I'm pretty curious about their tactility, is there a force graph for those switches anywhere?The only force-displacement curve for a Matias switch of which I am aware was made by Jacobolus using a gauge made by HaaTa. It may be found in the second post in the following tread:
If they aren't as rough as SKCM Cream Damped or Blacks then I'd probably enjoy them.
No, I haven't, though I'd like to try those and Matias Clicks at some point. I'm pretty curious about their tactility, is there a force graph for those switches anywhere?The only force-displacement curve for a Matias switch of which I am aware was made by Jacobolus using a gauge made by HaaTa. It may be found in the second post in the following tread:
If they aren't as rough as SKCM Cream Damped or Blacks then I'd probably enjoy them.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54183.0
He cautions that this represents one time with one switch.
I enjoy using my V60MTS-C and V60MTS-Q boards. They are certainly far better than any Cherry mx or clone, but they lack the refinement of a good SKCM white or blue board whose switches are in good to excellent condition.
The caps lock and bigass right bracket key look very zenithy to me
I have a pretty good feeling this is Alps.
Here's a listing for another NEC Multispeed laptop, different model but the keyboard looks nearly identical: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-Multispeed-HD-Laptop-Vintage-RARE-/111740313363
If you look closely at one of the photos, you can see the Alps-style stab wires. Also the + and - keys for both PCs look very Tai-Haoish.
The caps lock and bigass right bracket key look very zenithy to me
I have a pretty good feeling this is Alps.
Here's a listing for another NEC Multispeed laptop, different model but the keyboard looks nearly identical: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-Multispeed-HD-Laptop-Vintage-RARE-/111740313363
If you look closely at one of the photos, you can see the Alps-style stab wires. Also the + and - keys for both PCs look very Tai-Haoish.
this guys says white alps in his video, but they don't sound very clicky when he is typing (maybe they are creams or an alps clone with a white slider that is tactile):
https://youtu.be/1jh3N0c3M-g?t=5m23s (https://youtu.be/1jh3N0c3M-g?t=5m23s)
I can guarantee those are not white Alps. They don't even sound like very tactile Alps, more like linear Alps, though maybe the recording isn't very good. Could even be dampened ones.The caps lock and bigass right bracket key look very zenithy to me
I have a pretty good feeling this is Alps.
Here's a listing for another NEC Multispeed laptop, different model but the keyboard looks nearly identical: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-Multispeed-HD-Laptop-Vintage-RARE-/111740313363
If you look closely at one of the photos, you can see the Alps-style stab wires. Also the + and - keys for both PCs look very Tai-Haoish.
this guys says white alps in his video, but they don't sound very clicky when he is typing (maybe they are creams or an alps clone with a white slider that is tactile):
https://youtu.be/1jh3N0c3M-g?t=5m23s (https://youtu.be/1jh3N0c3M-g?t=5m23s)
They sound like tactile Alps, so probably Creams or clones then.
I can guarantee those are not white Alps. They don't even sound like very tactile Alps, more like linear Alps, though maybe the recording isn't very good. Could even be dampened ones.The caps lock and bigass right bracket key look very zenithy to me
I have a pretty good feeling this is Alps.
Here's a listing for another NEC Multispeed laptop, different model but the keyboard looks nearly identical: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-Multispeed-HD-Laptop-Vintage-RARE-/111740313363
If you look closely at one of the photos, you can see the Alps-style stab wires. Also the + and - keys for both PCs look very Tai-Haoish.
this guys says white alps in his video, but they don't sound very clicky when he is typing (maybe they are creams or an alps clone with a white slider that is tactile):
https://youtu.be/1jh3N0c3M-g?t=5m23s (https://youtu.be/1jh3N0c3M-g?t=5m23s)
They sound like tactile Alps, so probably Creams or clones then.
Oh that's true, SKCM Creams were what immediately came to mind when the person mentioned 'white Alps', but you might be right actually, after rewatching the video. In that case, it might be SKCL Creams then; that would be pretty neat.
A bit off topic, but I asked a recent seller on eBay to confirm and IBM 7690s do indeed use SKCM Browns. If anyone finds one by chance, the switches are likely to be in good condition since the keyboard has a build in plastic cover for hospital use.
A bit off topic, but I asked a recent seller on eBay to confirm and IBM 7690s do indeed use SKCM Browns. If anyone finds one by chance, the switches are likely to be in good condition since the keyboard has a build in plastic cover for hospital use.
I remember that short-lived auction. IIRC, only a couple hundred were produced in a test run (many of which were never fully assembled either), and they ultimately did not hit the market for whatever reason. The keyboards are identical to those in the 5140 except for their housings.
my opinion: Matias Quiet Click > SKCM Ivory/SKCM Black
One of the rare occasions I would say the newer versions are superior. You can even still mod the Matias to make them clicky or linear like you would the originals, or remove the dampeners. Sound still isn't as good.
SKCM Ivory are dampened? I thought Ivory was another name for SKCM Cream I must've gotten my names confused.my opinion: Matias Quiet Click > SKCM Ivory/SKCM Black
One of the rare occasions I would say the newer versions are superior. You can even still mod the Matias to make them clicky or linear like you would the originals, or remove the dampeners. Sound still isn't as good.
Have you tried the NeXT keyboards? SKCM Ivory isn't a dampened switch and neither is Black. A little hard to directly compare them like that. SKCM Ivory/Cream is like the best tactile Alps switch imo along with SKCM Orange outside of SKCM Green and Brown.
SKCM Ivory are dampened? I thought Ivory was another name for SKCM Cream I must've gotten my names confused.
I undampened my Matias QC sans a few switches so it's a fairer comparison, the Matias tactility is not as rough feeling as the late Blacks which feel like there are two bumps. The dampened creams also had this feel but not as much.
I had the cream dampened.SKCM Ivory are dampened? I thought Ivory was another name for SKCM Cream I must've gotten my names confused.
I undampened my Matias QC sans a few switches so it's a fairer comparison, the Matias tactility is not as rough feeling as the late Blacks which feel like there are two bumps. The dampened creams also had this feel but not as much.
SKCM Cream Damped is the dampened one, but SKCM Ivory/Cream is the undampened variety found in NeXT keyboards (earlier version found in some Canon AP500-II typewriters). Yeah, I can see them being better then the SKCM Blacks. But were those bamboo or pine? I have not tried pine blacks, but I hear that they are actually rather nice.
There's a bit of a schism on the name of SKCM Cream, where some prefer Ivory (it was listed as Ivory by Alps). Admittedly, Ivory makes it less confusing when talking about the undampened switch. Are these what you had though?
I had the cream dampened.
my opinion: Matias Quiet Click > SKCM Ivory/SKCM Black
One of the rare occasions I would say the newer versions are superior. You can even still mod the Matias to make them clicky or linear like you would the originals, or remove the dampeners. Sound still isn't as good.
Tbh I think "Ivory" makes most sense for the undampened switch even though the catalog listed it for the dampened one. The slider colour on the undampened switch is much lighter than the dampened one though, so ivory for one and cream for the other makes sense to me. Alps colours are... quite something, anyway xD .SKCM Ivory are dampened? I thought Ivory was another name for SKCM Cream I must've gotten my names confused.
I undampened my Matias QC sans a few switches so it's a fairer comparison, the Matias tactility is not as rough feeling as the late Blacks which feel like there are two bumps. The dampened creams also had this feel but not as much.
SKCM Cream Damped is the dampened one, but SKCM Ivory/Cream is the undampened variety found in NeXT keyboards (earlier version found in some Canon AP500-II typewriters). Yeah, I can see them being better then the SKCM Blacks. But were those bamboo or pine? I have not tried pine blacks, but I hear that they are actually rather nice.
There's a bit of a schism on the name of SKCM Cream, where some prefer Ivory (it was listed as Ivory by Alps). Admittedly, Ivory makes it less confusing when talking about the undampened switch. Are these what you had though?
I just did an interesting test. I gave my girlfriend four switches to play with and see what she thought of them. They were SKCM blue (just cleaned), SKCM white (just cleaned), SKCM amber (great condition) and SKCL green (really dirty). Unfortunately, I had no SKCM Orange laying around and I couldn't be bothered to desolder one.Eh, well, most people I show keyboards to can't tell any differences apart from sound between MX blue, white Alps and buckling springs :p . Still, I'll take it as a compliment for blue and amber Alps :p .
Since she knows nothing about these switches, except that a unicorn threw them up at our doorstep recently, she should be fairly objective (as far as subjective tests go). Winner of the looks department was blue, with green coming in second, followed by amber and white. As for the feel when a single switch was pressed between fingers - blue comes on top as well. Amber is second, then white. She was absolutely disgusted with green, and I don't blame her, because that particular switch was scratchy as hell, and I guess it felt relatively hollow after those clicky switches.
So there you have it folks. The most nonscientifical way of proving that all the hype around SKCM blues is well and truly deserved. Case closed :)
I'm in the process of converting a non-ADB US ANSI NeXT keyboard to USB. It has the undamped cream Alps.
According to the DT wiki on the Alps SKCL and SKCM series of keyboard switches, it is the damped version of the cream switch that was dubbed "ivory", and it is described as lighter in color than the undamped version.
What about the nomenclature for sound suppression in switches? I've seen both, "damp" and "dampen" as the verb and "damped" and "dampened" as the past tense, past participle, or adjective. However, I think that "damp" and "damped" might be regarded as the more correct forms.
Whatever we call them, I like the switches in my non-ADB US ANSI NeXT keyboard! I'll post more details on it after I have had a chance to convert it to USB so that I can do proper typing tests.
I'm in the process of converting a non-ADB US ANSI NeXT keyboard to USB. It has the undamped cream Alps.
According to the DT wiki on the Alps SKCL and SKCM series of keyboard switches, it is the damped version of the cream switch that was dubbed "ivory", and it is described as lighter in color than the undamped version.
What about the nomenclature for sound suppression in switches? I've seen both, "damp" and "dampen" as the verb and "damped" and "dampened" as the past tense, past participle, or adjective. However, I think that "damp" and "damped" might be regarded as the more correct forms.
Whatever we call them, I like the switches in my non-ADB US ANSI NeXT keyboard! I'll post more details on it after I have had a chance to convert it to USB so that I can do proper typing tests.
Did anyone else beside jacobulous try cream switches from both Canon typewriters and NeXT boards? He mentioned that there is a noticeable difference between the two. I think it's probably the switch condition though, as there is a noticeable difference between orange switches in my two apple boards for instance, but it makes me wonder.
@E3E: I just checked the sliders in my non-ADB NeXT keyboard, and they definitely appear yellowish-white to me, and they certainly feel undamped and tactile. I don't have a damped cream Alps board handy, but the sliders in my Omnikey 101 with SKCM white Alps look pale white -- almost like translucent "Tupperware" polypropylene "white".Yes, in fact the white of my SKCM white damped switches looks like a fuller white than the white of SKCM white. It varies per switch though.
The DT wiki on the Alps SKCL/SKCM series has a note about the color of the sliders in the cream damped (aka ivory) switch: "the exact shade appears to vary and can even be white."
The overall picture across the spectrum of Alps is further confused by the apparent existence of the Alps SKCM white damped switch, which as depicted in the DT Wiki is a brilliant white color.
@E3E: I just checked the sliders in my non-ADB NeXT keyboard, and they definitely appear yellowish-white to me, and they certainly feel undamped and tactile. I don't have a damped cream Alps board handy, but the sliders in my Omnikey 101 with SKCM white Alps look pale white -- almost like translucent "Tupperware" polypropylene "white".
The DT wiki on the Alps SKCL/SKCM series has a note about the color of the sliders in the cream damped (aka ivory) switch: "the exact shade appears to vary and can even be white."
The overall picture across the spectrum of Alps is further confused by the apparent existence of the Alps SKCM white damped switch, which as depicted in the DT Wiki is a brilliant white color.
I won the mystery nec laptop. 31$ shipped
If its not genuine alps Ill probably send it backI won the mystery nec laptop. 31$ shipped
Looking forward to seeing what's in it.
I imagine the translucency of the later switches is a property of the slippery plastic that Alps switched to with SKCM White, Cream Damped, etc.No, it's more like the opposite. In fact, I suspect this might be a reason for the colour change in some switches. For example, orange to salmon, and neon green pine to neon green bamboo. I wouldn't be surprised at all if the different plastic is more opaque and makes colours appear less intense. It's not even unthinkable both are actually the same pigment, just in a different plastic.
The color variation of blue Alps depends upon how much hair and how many dust mites each switch has ingested. :)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zdaNR7f.jpg)
The worst thing about having a rare and obscure switch as your favorite.
To be fair I cringe just as hard when someone trashes a perfectly working 5140 for just the board as you probably did at this image. '
They will be getting a nice new home, its a surprise :D
Apple Extended Keyboard II in 1990 & NeXT Black in 1986
(Attachment Link)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qlgWxl3.jpg)
:eek:
Also, found all of these:It looks like Hypersphere put those up. I hope you guys don't mind but I just BIN'd that IBM 5140 Keyboard. I'm very excited :D
5140 keyboard w/ no caps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252519136112
Fill that board in with some Matias or SKCM black or something, so it's at least not just a skeleton.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zdaNR7f.jpg)
The worst thing about having a rare and obscure switch as your favorite.
To be fair I cringe just as hard when someone trashes a perfectly working 5140 for just the board as you probably did at this image. '
They will be getting a nice new home, its a surprise :D :p
Also, found all of these:It looks like Hypersphere put those up. I hope you guys don't mind but I just BIN'd that IBM 5140 Keyboard. I'm very excited :D
5140 keyboard w/ no caps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252519136112
Now I don't have to feel guilty about killing a 5140 for switches, haha.
Are those what I think they are?? (Clean SKCM Greens??)
Ooh, where did you get those from?
It looks like Hypersphere put those up. I hope you guys don't mind but I just BIN'd that IBM 5140 Keyboard. I'm very excited :D
Now I don't have to feel guilty about killing a 5140 for switches, haha.
That was quick :)
Just got mine for a bit more but with keycaps, and can't wait for it to arrive.
@E3E: Hot-swapping switches does not sound trivial at all. Did you custom-build the hot-swappable keyboard?All alps mods can be done without desoldering, as long as you dont want to swap bottom housings or switch plates.
@E3E and/or XMIT: Especially in light of the ongoing GB for Alps springs,
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55888.msg2252288#msg2252288
do you have recommendations on which type(s) of Alps, if any, could be converted closer to the sound and feel of SKCM blue Alps? I know there are various ways to mod Alps switches, including clipping tabs on a tactile leaf to convert it to a clicky switch, and swapping various components, including sliders and/or springs. Which mods can be done "in situ" without desoldering switches?
There are numerous posts on how to transform various Cherry mx switches to have new stated characteristics, but I have not seen something like this for Alps switches.
I was convinced to finally trade my Orion v2 with SKCM blues. No other clicky switch compares. You will be missed :(Amen.
I was convinced to finally trade my Orion v2 with SKCM blues. No other clicky switch compares. You will be missed :(
@E3E: Hot-swapping switches does not sound trivial at all. Did you custom-build the hot-swappable keyboard?
@E3E and/or XMIT: Especially in light of the ongoing GB for Alps springs,
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55888.msg2252288#msg2252288
do you have recommendations on which type(s) of Alps, if any, could be converted closer to the sound and feel of SKCM blue Alps? I know there are various ways to mod Alps switches, including clipping tabs on a tactile leaf to convert it to a clicky switch, and swapping various components, including sliders and/or springs. Which mods can be done "in situ" without desoldering switches?
There are numerous posts on how to transform various Cherry mx switches to have new stated characteristics, but I have not seen something like this for Alps switches.
I was convinced to finally trade my Orion v2 with SKCM blues. No other clicky switch compares. You will be missed :(
Ouch. You weren't the one that got yours from Axtran were you? What did you end up trading for?
I was convinced to finally trade my Orion v2 with SKCM blues. No other clicky switch compares. You will be missed :(
Ouch. You weren't the one that got yours from Axtran were you? What did you end up trading for?
That'd be me. It's been replaced with a Leeku 1.3 with 55g Gateron blacks (his lube/solder job) and Hyperfuse (I kept the Orion case, just traded the internals). As much as I loved blues, I really missed the keyset customization of MX.
100% yes. It went to a friend who had been after it for awhile, so at least it's in good hands. :)I was convinced to finally trade my Orion v2 with SKCM blues. No other clicky switch compares. You will be missed :(
Ouch. You weren't the one that got yours from Axtran were you? What did you end up trading for?
That'd be me. It's been replaced with a Leeku 1.3 with 55g Gateron blacks (his lube/solder job) and Hyperfuse (I kept the Orion case, just traded the internals). As much as I loved blues, I really missed the keyset customization of MX.
Ah, one of Alps biggest weaknesses, unfortunately. Alps giveth, and Alps taketh away.
If I've assimilated the information correctly, it would appear that there might be a couple of options for producing a "ghetto blue Alps" switch.skcl green with white tops and click leaves feels pretty nice, but not the same as blues. Wingpad compared them to capacitive BS when he tried them when we met up.
Namely, as summarized by E3E, do a "click mod" on the tactile leaf of either an orange Alps or an undamped cream/ivory Alps. The result might be getting somewhat close to the sound/feel of blue Alps, but the modded orange would be lighter and the modded cream/ivory would be heavier.
BTW, there are at least two methods recommended for the click mod. Chyros favors clipping all 4 tabs,
https://deskthority.net/review-f45/how-to-click-mod-alps-switches-t14099.html
whereas njbair suggests clipping only the top two -- the tabs near the apex of the triangular cross-section formed by the two planes of the leaf.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=79539.0
However, as Chyros has pointed out, there were a number of subtle changes made by Alps in the development of the blue switch from its predecessors. Moreover, the sound and feel of any Alps switch is dependent not only on the internal characteristics of the switch (which might include some elusive lubricant as well as various hardware components of the switch), but also the properties of the keyboard in which the switches are installed.
Therefore, we cannot expect to find a simple path for transforming a non-blue Alps into a blue Alps. I suspect that discovering the secret(s) of what makes blue Alps sound and feel as they do will prove to be nearly as problematic as determining what makes a Stradivarius violin sound the way it does (which also depends on having the violin played by an excellent violinist).
Nevertheless, there may be some relatively straightforward modifications of "lesser" switches that will prove close enough for those who prefer not to wait for a genuine blue Alps board to turn up at an affordable price. Moreover, many of us get along quite nicely without blue Alps switches!
skcl green with white tops and click leaves feels pretty nice, but not the same as blues. Wingpad compared them to capacitive BS when he tried them when we met up.I said that because they are so pingy and really smooth, I'm pretty convinced that they have to be ridiculously clean to get that particular key feel/sound. My modded greens weren't nearly that nice and I think it's because they've sucked up their fair share of dust over the years.
Therefore, we cannot expect to find a simple path for transforming a non-blue Alps into a blue Alps. I suspect that discovering the secret(s) of what makes blue Alps sound and feel as they do will prove to be nearly as problematic as determining what makes a Stradivarius violin sound the way it does (which also depends on having the violin played by an excellent violinist).Throughout my numerous experiments I have made a few "ghetto" switches that are close to blues but it's not consistent. I'll make five out of the same parts and only one will have the right sound.
Nevertheless, there may be some relatively straightforward modifications of "lesser" switches that will prove close enough for those who prefer not to wait for a genuine blue Alps board to turn up at an affordable price. Moreover, many of us get along quite nicely without blue Alps switches!
My NeXT keyboard arrived today, not quite what the switches I was expecting, did I order the wrong one? The back says its an AAE...Welcome to my situation, haha. It's just the name of the game, unfortunately :(
My NeXT keyboard arrived today, not quite what the switches I was expecting, did I order the wrong one? The back says its an AAE...Welcome to my situation, haha. It's just the name of the game, unfortunately :(
did you try to mod the greens from that wyse board? the case is pretty filthy, so I cant inagine the switches were too good.skcl green with white tops and click leaves feels pretty nice, but not the same as blues. Wingpad compared them to capacitive BS when he tried them when we met up.I said that because they are so pingy and really smooth, I'm pretty convinced that they have to be ridiculously clean to get that particular key feel/sound. My modded greens weren't nearly that nice and I think it's because they've sucked up their fair share of dust over the years.
did you try to mod the greens from that wyse board? the case is pretty filthy, so I cant inagine the switches were too good.I have tried modding those as well as some other greens I had but neither were sourced from particularly clean boards. If I ever find a clean green alps board I might be tempted to grab it to try modding 'em again.
My NeXT keyboard arrived today, not quite what the switches I was expecting, did I order the wrong one? The back says its an AAE...No, no you didn't. That's really weird, have never seen that before. All small enter AAE's should have SKCM Cream. This is the first of its kind. Find out the date on the chip. I'd like to know when it was made. Both mine and E3E's are 89's. Must be super late production for small enter's.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/W7fKDKw.jpg)
My NeXT keyboard arrived today, not quite what the switches I was expecting, did I order the wrong one? The back says its an AAE...No, no you didn't. That's really weird, have never seen that before. All small enter AAE's should have SKCM Cream. This is the first of its kind. Find out the date on the chip. I'd like to know when it was made. Both mine and E3E's are 89's. Must be super late production for small enter's.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/W7fKDKw.jpg)
Extremely unlucky i'm afraid. :(
Damn I'm definitely going to have to pick up one of those NeXT boards because those white on black doubleshots are sexy as hell.
Those grey switches appear to have the four tabs associated with clones.They also look like they have some sort of B logo, dunno; still a potentially interesting switch. Those caps also look rather thick.
Damn I'm definitely going to have to pick up one of those NeXT boards because those white on black doubleshots are sexy as hell.
I've trashed six 5140. and zero guilt
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Damn I'm definitely going to have to pick up one of those NeXT boards because those white on black doubleshots are sexy as hell.
Just be aware that the mods are incompatible with conventional Alps plates. They orientation of the stabs (within the caps) and their inserts (on the plate) is inverted. Whereas traditional Alps are mounted like: , - , NeXT's are ' - '
I know it's crude, but if you think about it, you'll get what I'm saying. :P
It's common enough.
Will keep youin mind, I wouldn't mind a full board of SKCM Black anyway, even if they're one of the more underwhelming.Damn I'm definitely going to have to pick up one of those NeXT boards because those white on black doubleshots are sexy as hell.
If you want one for just the caps I'll sell one of my SKCM Black ones to ya' :P After all, I bought 'em hoping they'd be Creams.
Anywhoozies, here are the pictures I took of it:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CChE0I0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JdkUIvJ.jpg)
It is labeled AAE on the back.
Also, our favorite Taobao guy posted a rather interesting board (https://world.taobao.com/item/537804177055.htm?fromSite=main) recently:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QcLTQzR.jpg)
Are these SKCM Greys or clones?
just buy some blanks off of pmk, use the alphas from the NeXt.Will keep youin mind, I wouldn't mind a full board of SKCM Black anyway, even if they're one of the more underwhelming.Damn I'm definitely going to have to pick up one of those NeXT boards because those white on black doubleshots are sexy as hell.
If you want one for just the caps I'll sell one of my SKCM Black ones to ya' :P After all, I bought 'em hoping they'd be Creams.
Anywhoozies, here are the pictures I took of it:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CChE0I0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JdkUIvJ.jpg)
It is labeled AAE on the back.
Also, our favorite Taobao guy posted a rather interesting board (https://world.taobao.com/item/537804177055.htm?fromSite=main) recently:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QcLTQzR.jpg)
Are these SKCM Greys or clones?
And finding a few black Alps modifiers shouldn't be the hardest thing in the world is it?
Nevertheless, I wish they would start selling PBT caps.
Nevertheless, I wish they would start selling PBT caps.
Like the Unicomp Space Saving Keyboard, soon™.
or new production skcm/l switchesNevertheless, I wish they would start selling PBT caps.
Like the Unicomp Space Saving Keyboard, soon.
What's gonna hit the market first? Matias PBT, Unicomp SSK, or Half-Life 3?
or new production skcm/l switches
Whoa, the Omnikey space bar isn't 7u exactly?Exactly.or new production skcm/l switches
Well, I don't think that is even being developed, so I don't imagine we'll ever see those, sadly.
Does anyone have any opinions on Zealiostotles?
They're Zeal's Zealio switch housings with a stem from Aristotle clone switches. There's a lot of hype buzzing around them and some even say they favor them to blue Alps.
I just can't imagine them being better than Alps, but I'm very curious if anyone here has an opinion of them and how they compare to Alps.
Ooh, keep us posted! I would be lying if I said I wasn't interested.Does anyone have any opinions on Zealiostotles?
They're Zeal's Zealio switch housings with a stem from Aristotle clone switches. There's a lot of hype buzzing around them and some even say they favor them to blue Alps.
I just can't imagine them being better than Alps, but I'm very curious if anyone here has an opinion of them and how they compare to Alps.
I ordered some NOS Aristotles ordered from Zeal set to ship out at the same time as his silencing clips. I intend on doing a stem-swap into at least the housing of the Zealios alphas. I can try to report back in a month or so with a comparison to NOS blue alps.
Also, I don't know if it is common knowledge, but I may have another (albeit expensive) source for brown alps
Some of you may have seen this on eBay, but here are some pictures from a recent AT&T Unix 7300 PC that was just sold. Looks to be the tactile variant.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Hd6TVIB.jpg)
Close up on the broken ones :(MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/XtDnZLj.jpg)
@emdude, XMIT, Chyros, and anyone else who would care to respond: Regarding binding of Alps swithces, what is the relative importance of the degree of wear, degree of cleanliness, and degree of wobble in determining binding or lack thereof?Alps switches don't really bind, I don't think any of my boards ever have. They get scratchy for dirt and dust, but binding, no. Alps boards tend to come with pretty effective stabilisers as well, though it's not always easy to put them back if you take the keycap off.
Then what is going on to make it very difficult to press the key if it is pressed very much off dead-center? This is quite marked on one of my Alps boards, but the keys do not otherwise feel scratchy.@emdude, XMIT, Chyros, and anyone else who would care to respond: Regarding binding of Alps swithces, what is the relative importance of the degree of wear, degree of cleanliness, and degree of wobble in determining binding or lack thereof?Alps switches don't really bind, I don't think any of my boards ever have. They get scratchy for dirt and dust, but binding, no. Alps boards tend to come with pretty effective stabilisers as well, though it's not always easy to put them back if you take the keycap off.
Perhaps as they age Alps don't do off-center keypresses as well as lesser used Alps?Then what is going on to make it very difficult to press the key if it is pressed very much off dead-center? This is quite marked on one of my Alps boards, but the keys do not otherwise feel scratchy.@emdude, XMIT, Chyros, and anyone else who would care to respond: Regarding binding of Alps swithces, what is the relative importance of the degree of wear, degree of cleanliness, and degree of wobble in determining binding or lack thereof?Alps switches don't really bind, I don't think any of my boards ever have. They get scratchy for dirt and dust, but binding, no. Alps boards tend to come with pretty effective stabilisers as well, though it's not always easy to put them back if you take the keycap off.
I also have no issues with the stabilzers -- I have replaced stabilized keys often on Alps/Matias boards with no problem.
Perhaps as they age Alps don't do off-center keypresses as well as lesser used Alps?Then what is going on to make it very difficult to press the key if it is pressed very much off dead-center? This is quite marked on one of my Alps boards, but the keys do not otherwise feel scratchy.@emdude, XMIT, Chyros, and anyone else who would care to respond: Regarding binding of Alps swithces, what is the relative importance of the degree of wear, degree of cleanliness, and degree of wobble in determining binding or lack thereof?Alps switches don't really bind, I don't think any of my boards ever have. They get scratchy for dirt and dust, but binding, no. Alps boards tend to come with pretty effective stabilisers as well, though it's not always easy to put them back if you take the keycap off.
I also have no issues with the stabilzers -- I have replaced stabilized keys often on Alps/Matias boards with no problem.
Cherrys saving grace may be one of Alps weaknesses.
@E3E: Interesting. Have you tried cleaning the switches that were "binding" (or whatever we should call it when the switch does not readily depress when the keycaps is pressed off-center)? If so, did cleaning have any effect on binding?
When you swap tops, are you talking about only the top of the switch housing and not the spring, slider, or tactile/click plate? Have you tried swapping any of these components (spring, slider, or tactile/click plate) to see if it alleviated binding? What about lubing any of the switch components with dry teflon or other form of lube?
Thanks for the further details. Is there a table posted somewhere that lists the various Alps switches and which parts are compatible among them?
Without a doubt, it's not about ageing. I'm typing this on an Alps board from 1986 that has no binding issues whatever.Perhaps as they age Alps don't do off-center keypresses as well as lesser used Alps?Then what is going on to make it very difficult to press the key if it is pressed very much off dead-center? This is quite marked on one of my Alps boards, but the keys do not otherwise feel scratchy.@emdude, XMIT, Chyros, and anyone else who would care to respond: Regarding binding of Alps swithces, what is the relative importance of the degree of wear, degree of cleanliness, and degree of wobble in determining binding or lack thereof?Alps switches don't really bind, I don't think any of my boards ever have. They get scratchy for dirt and dust, but binding, no. Alps boards tend to come with pretty effective stabilisers as well, though it's not always easy to put them back if you take the keycap off.
I also have no issues with the stabilzers -- I have replaced stabilized keys often on Alps/Matias boards with no problem.
Cherrys saving grace may be one of Alps weaknesses.
No, they do bind. I've had a board or two do this, including my SKCM Green 6085. When I checked that keyboard, the switches were squeaky clean, so it's either wear from use, some kind of weird aging/degradation (they were from 1992, so I don't know about aging, but perhaps some other kind of degradation)... Either way, it's all about the tops in that case. When the tops are swapped, the binding ceases.
My DocuTechs had debris in their switches but NONE of them had binding issues compared to the clean 6085. The caps had no shine either, so I really don't know what was up with that one.
Cherrys saving grace may be one of Alps weaknesses.This is definitely true. Cherry keyboards have remarkably effective stabilisers. Although this isn't a virtue of the switches themselves, it's definitely one of the best advantages of Cherry as a manufacturer IMO .
It does make sense that the wobble with Matias switches might be a boon; the smaller sliders means more leeway within the housing.I have a board with switches that wobble so much it's ridiculous, they might as well be tiny joysticks. Doesn't bind at all. In that video I stress the unnecessary negative connotations that most people have with wobble. Not that it's necessarily a good thing, mind you, but it's definitely not necessarily a bad thing. If there's room inside the switch for it, it's completely harmless and arguably beneficial.
For what it's worth, beam spring switches are incredibly wobbly (though I am not sure if it is to the same extent as Matias switches), but they can also handle off-center presses extremely well, probably the best of all the switches I've tried.
If there's room inside the switch for it, it's completely harmless and arguably beneficial.
It does make sense that the wobble with Matias switches might be a boon; the smaller sliders means more leeway within the housing.
For what it's worth, beam spring switches are incredibly wobbly (though I am not sure if it is to the same extent as Matias switches), but they can also handle off-center presses extremely well, probably the best of all the switches I've tried.
Exactly :D .Under certain conditions, "wobble" can make off-center strikes less problematic.
If there's room inside the switch for it, it's completely harmless and arguably beneficial.
Eh, why would you do this? OoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qzynx2.jpg)
hand wiring pr0n
All the traces have been cut on the pcb, its just there for structural reasons.
you didnt expect me to chase down all the original traces, did you? :)) the reason I did this was to get an easier matrix to work with in tmk. noone makes a fkeyless tkl pcb in alps, so I have to do it myself.Eh, why would you do this? OoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qzynx2.jpg)
hand wiring pr0n
All the traces have been cut on the pcb, its just there for structural reasons.
Ah, I see, I hadn't noticed you'd chopped something off xD .you didnt expect me to chase down all the original traces, did you? :)) the reason I did this was to get an easier matrix to work with in tmk. noone makes a fkeyless tkl pcb in alps, so I have to do it myself.Eh, why would you do this? OoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qzynx2.jpg)
hand wiring pr0n
All the traces have been cut on the pcb, its just there for structural reasons.
@E3E: What is the effect on Alps switches whose sliders are not rotationally symmetric if the slider were assembled backwards? That is, with the notched side not facing the switch plate? Would this cause binding? If so, is it possible that binding switches were improperly assembled? (Probably not, but thought I'd ask nevertheless).
Would it be safe to clean Alps switch housings/sliders with dental tabs? I found some White Alps switches that are really dirty, and using dental tabs would probably be the most effective way to clean them in a short amount of time. And it wouldn't be too much of a loss if the plastic had some terrible reaction with the dental tabs for whatever reason, as we're talking about White Alps here, easily the most common Alps switches.Yeah, a few other people have done this with no adverse effects.
And I'm not going to be soaking the switchplates, obviously.
You can convert a tactile/linear Alps switch to a linear switch by removing the tactile/click leaf. No need to transfer anything from the green Alps.green alps are arguably much better than linearized any other alps
Are they though? Granted, I don't have any NOS linear Alps boards, but similar-condition linearised boards felt at least as good as green Alps Oo .You can convert a tactile/linear Alps switch to a linear switch by removing the tactile/click leaf. No need to transfer anything from the green Alps.green alps are arguably much better than linearized any other alps
my green alps were near mint, and were the smoothest most statisfying linears I ever tried.Are they though? Granted, I don't have any NOS linear Alps boards, but similar-condition linearised boards felt at least as good as green Alps Oo .You can convert a tactile/linear Alps switch to a linear switch by removing the tactile/click leaf. No need to transfer anything from the green Alps.green alps are arguably much better than linearized any other alps
I suppose there could be another advantage of doing the mod by transplanting the sliders from the green Alps switches -- they have C2 rotational symmetry, so that you needn't worry about which side of the slider faces the switch plate.You're such a chemist xD .
Huh, what's this. It's almost one of those Omron Wangs but in ANSI.
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/sdp/5743873162.html
The model number is 725-3492-US, which reminds me of the 3770 but it's 'made by Honeywell' so rubber dome or something non Alps probably.Huh, what's this. It's almost one of those Omron Wangs but in ANSI.
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/sdp/5743873162.html
That's a sharp wang, man. If it had good switches, I'd be all over it.
Someone told me that when they linearised their AT-101w they thought that it felt too "slow" combing back up. But this may just be linear Alps in general compared to Cherry.
Excuse the cell phone pics, but lets just say I worked everything out with the seller of the Black Alps NeXT keyboard...Ill buy 2 of those NeXt boards from you since those are my favorite switches :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gIJZAmB.jpg)
It was a win/win for both of us since he wasn't going to sell the first three with either a broken switches, a cracked case or non-functioning PCB.Someone told me that when they linearised their AT-101w they thought that it felt too "slow" combing back up. But this may just be linear Alps in general compared to Cherry.
I didn't find this to be the case at all, could anyone tell me how close these feel to SKCL Brown Alps?
Excuse the cell phone pics, but lets just say I worked everything out with the seller of the Black Alps NeXT keyboard...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gIJZAmB.jpg)
It was a win/win for both of us since he wasn't going to sell the first three with either a broken switches, a cracked case or non-functioning PCB.Someone told me that when they linearised their AT-101w they thought that it felt too "slow" combing back up. But this may just be linear Alps in general compared to Cherry.
I didn't find this to be the case at all, could anyone tell me how close these feel to SKCL Brown Alps?
Excuse the cell phone pics, but lets just say I worked everything out with the seller of the Black Alps NeXT keyboard...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gIJZAmB.jpg)
It was a win/win for both of us since he wasn't going to sell the first three with either a broken switches, a cracked case or non-functioning PCB.Someone told me that when they linearised their AT-101w they thought that it felt too "slow" combing back up. But this may just be linear Alps in general compared to Cherry.
It was a little over a hundred shipped, but the seller asked that I keep the one with black alps.
I didn't find this to be the case at all, could anyone tell me how close these feel to SKCL Brown Alps?
Jesus. That's crazy. How much did that all cost you?
Also SKCL Brown have a cusiony bottom out which is quite nice. I'll have to compare with the AT101W I have and linearize a few, but I think it's quite different.
I'm also interested in one. Either cash or trade some restored SKCM Blues and/or SKCL Greens.Excuse the cell phone pics, but lets just say I worked everything out with the seller of the Black Alps NeXT keyboard...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gIJZAmB.jpg)
It was a win/win for both of us since he wasn't going to sell the first three with either a broken switches, a cracked case or non-functioning PCB.Someone told me that when they linearised their AT-101w they thought that it felt too "slow" combing back up. But this may just be linear Alps in general compared to Cherry.
It was a little over a hundred shipped, but the seller asked that I keep the one with black alps.
I didn't find this to be the case at all, could anyone tell me how close these feel to SKCL Brown Alps?
Jesus. That's crazy. How much did that all cost you?
Also SKCL Brown have a cusiony bottom out which is quite nice. I'll have to compare with the AT101W I have and linearize a few, but I think it's quite different.
It was a little over a hundred shipped, but the seller asked that I keep the one with black alps. @Mike I can certainly do that once I settle in with school, considering that I am back to going full time. I don't need five XD
Excuse the cell phone pics, but lets just say I worked everything out with the seller of the Black Alps NeXT keyboard...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gIJZAmB.jpg)
It was a win/win for both of us since he wasn't going to sell the first three with either a broken switches, a cracked case or non-functioning PCB.Someone told me that when they linearised their AT-101w they thought that it felt too "slow" combing back up. But this may just be linear Alps in general compared to Cherry.
It was a little over a hundred shipped, but the seller asked that I keep the one with black alps.
I didn't find this to be the case at all, could anyone tell me how close these feel to SKCL Brown Alps?
Jesus. That's crazy. How much did that all cost you?
Also SKCL Brown have a cusiony bottom out which is quite nice. I'll have to compare with the AT101W I have and linearize a few, but I think it's quite different.
It was a little over a hundred shipped, but the seller asked that I keep the one with black alps. @Mike I can certainly do that once I settle in with school, considering that I am back to going full time. I don't need five XD
Wow, that was quick. I just swapped the busted case with the one with the busted switch so I have 3 that are intact (one for me to be USB converted), and two to be harvested for switches. I will be PMing each of you soon to work the details.
I should break since someone also offered to buy the Pine Black switches for modding on Reddit, glad I picked up an Engineer desoldering pump this week :D
Wow, that was quick. I just swapped the busted case with the one with the busted switch so I have 3 that are intact (one for me to be USB converted), and two to be harvested for switches. I will be PMing each of you soon to work the details.
I should break since someone also offered to buy the Pine Black switches for modding on Reddit, glad I picked up an Engineer desoldering pump this week :D
Were the pine blacks not that great? I haven't tried the pine variant, but I always thought SKCM Black would be good if it had pine tops.
That was shortlived lol, I guess it is truly is a game of chance :confused:It's always like that with Alps :P .
Interesting how there are consistently more posts in the Alps appreciation thread than the HHKB love thread.because alps is cooler than topre
Interesting how there are consistently more posts in the Alps appreciation thread than the HHKB love thread.Alps is a much broad church. Their popularity even after they haven't been made for 20 years is a testament to the design, I guess.
Yes -- I can't help myself. I suppose this applies to you as well, as it takes one to know one! ;)I suppose there could be another advantage of doing the mod by transplanting the sliders from the green Alps switches -- they have C2 rotational symmetry, so that you needn't worry about which side of the slider faces the switch plate.You're such a chemist xD .
While on topic of dampening, has anyone tried using dampened sliders from cream damped switch in earlier alps switches - browns, greens, yellows, blues... Would this even make sense?I can try it with skcm creams and skcm blues. Will update when I get the chance.
While on topic of dampening, has anyone tried using dampened sliders from cream damped switch in earlier alps switches - browns, greens, yellows, blues... Would this even make sense?I recall emdude mentioning doing this -- cream damped sliders from an SGI in a brown Alps board. Because the dampers in a cream Alps do not extend beyond the ends of the slider, I think you would also need to use the tops from the damped cream switches. However, this is not the case with damped sliders from Matias Quiet switches -- the dampers extend beyond the ends of the slider, so you can use the tops of the recipient switch. I have done this with Matias Quiet sliders and white Alps switches.
Indeed. I use a lot of complicated words nowadays as well; a by-product of typing your thesis, I guess xD . You find fun words as well, such as "incompossible", "lixiviation" and "hypengyophobia" :p .Yes -- I can't help myself. I suppose this applies to you as well, as it takes one to know one! ;)I suppose there could be another advantage of doing the mod by transplanting the sliders from the green Alps switches -- they have C2 rotational symmetry, so that you needn't worry about which side of the slider faces the switch plate.You're such a chemist xD .
While on topic of dampening, has anyone tried using dampened sliders from cream damped switch in earlier alps switches - browns, greens, yellows, blues... Would this even make sense?I recall emdude mentioning doing this -- cream damped sliders from an SGI in a brown Alps board. Because the dampers in a cream Alps do not extend beyond the ends of the slider, I think you would also need to use the tops from the damped cream switches. However, this is not the case with damped sliders from Matias Quiet switches -- the dampers extend beyond the ends of the slider, so you can use the tops of the recipient switch. I have done this with Matias Quiet sliders and white Alps switches.
@Chyros: C2 symmetry outside of Chemistry? Certainly! As you no doubt know, point groups, symmetry elements, and symmetry operations are based on group theory. Chemical structures represent just one application; there are also applications to other areas of mathematics, physics, music, cryptography, ....Ah yes, good one, I remember that one now xD . If you like funky words, not much beats H. P. Lovecraft, by the way xD .
One of my favorite words from inorganic chemistry is "nephelauxetic". We geeks owe so much to the Greeks!
@Chyros: Moral of the story -- never speak to anyone on the street. ;)I've barely even SEEN the street for months now, locked away in the office until midnight every day xD .
Quick question that I can't seem to find the answer to; do the keycaps on the Apple M0116 have the same profile as the ones on the AEKs?
Quick question that I can't seem to find the answer to; do the keycaps on the Apple M0116 have the same profile as the ones on the AEKs?
Yes. Very useful if you have keysets from both and want to use an Esc with the mount oriented normally for a 60% build.
A thought popped into my head - did any of you guys like enough to have SKCM greens tried to click-mod a switch or two? I wonder how they would compare to other clicky alps.
It sounds very good clear and melodious.Those are alps clones, called KPT Blues. I have heard very good things about them. Could you make a typing demonstration video to share with us?
I found a Toshiba T1200 and harvested the beautiful doubleshot Alps-mount keycaps. The switches are some sort of Alps-mount linear. I think they are the same ones that Webwit described in a post on DT:pcb mount, nonstandard pins, fairly rough keyfeel, no thanks
(Attachment Link)
https://deskthority.net/photos-f62/toshiba-t1200-minitouch-t4656.html
Has anyone here tried using these switches in a custom-built keyboard? I would suppose that they would have non-standard pins, and I think they are PCB-mounted.
Looks good man. Now I'm not the only one with an SKCM Orange swapped AT101 :)IIRC fohat has one as well; that being said I think yours wins just because the SGI Granite is a far cooler looking board, haha. In any case, they're fun, aren't they?
Pic from my swap:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9n4FKlI.jpg)
fohat has one as well; that being said I think yours wins just because the SGI Granite is a far cooler looking board,
Can anyone give a side-be-side sound comparison of a stock AT101 versus an orange-modded AT101/
Hmm. Don't give me any ideas :rolleyes:Can anyone give a side-be-side sound comparison of a stock AT101 versus an orange-modded AT101/
My stockish AT101 is currently in pieces (because I harvested its keycaps and weight plate for this project) but if I ever put it back together I could record one. That being said, I think the difference in sound would be rather marginal since, for me, it's mostly a key feel thing. If I remember correctly they sound more or less identical except that I'm less prone to bottoming out on my orange-modded one. Others might have a different opinion here but when it comes to tactile switches sound really isn't high on my priorities list.
An interesting tidbit is that I did put one Blue Alps switch in this build (along with a SKCL Green in the Pause/Break/PrintScr/ScrollLck cluster to serve as a mini "switch tester") and I can say that Blue Alps really sound nice in this chassis. They have a nice, deep click and they reverberate with the entire chassis causing a satisfying "ping." It kind of makes me wish that I built this board with Blue Alps :p
Hmm. Don't give me any ideas :rolleyes:How are the restoration efforts coming along? I haven't had a chance to work on mine recently, unfortunately...
I still have all of those taobao SKCM Blues. But I figure it's better to stay Orange since I have the Packard.
Do want a full size linear board though. Will find a chassis eventually.
I'm asking since the Dell AT101W and AEK have a very different typing sound, but I think the chassis are for a significant part to blame for that. I think it'd be quite interesting to hear the difference between the two switches in an identical chassis.Can anyone give a side-be-side sound comparison of a stock AT101 versus an orange-modded AT101/
My stockish AT101 is currently in pieces (because I harvested its keycaps and weight plate for this project) but if I ever put it back together I could record one. That being said, I think the difference in sound would be rather marginal since, for me, it's mostly a key feel thing.
I've haven't done any for a little while. Got busy. Have about 40 good and ready to go Blues and 3-4 that need to be redone b/c of too much lube etc. The Greens are just sitting since their top housings are currently useless. Will try some denture tabs to fix them up, warm soapy water soak didn't take away the roughness.Hmm. Don't give me any ideas :rolleyes:How are the restoration efforts coming along? I haven't had a chance to work on mine recently, unfortunately...
I still have all of those taobao SKCM Blues. But I figure it's better to stay Orange since I have the Packard.
Do want a full size linear board though. Will find a chassis eventually.
I dunno' if I would bother making a custom, full-sized linear Alps board, though, especially when the Zenith boards are so nice in the first place. What've you been considering?
E3E- that looks so good. Which switches are in there?
@E3E: Looks good. Exotic!
I'm typing this on my non-ADB NeXT keyboard. Just got it up and running today with Hasu's converter. I've mapped the keyboard to an HHKB-like layout (of course!). Everthing just works! Hasu is a genius, as everyone here knows.
Currently, I have the converter on the attached cable. Later on, I might put the converter inside the case and install a flush-mount connector.
The one I have is the ANSI version with undamped cream Alps. It has a pleasant tactile feel. I might swap the slider on the spacebar with one from a Matias Quiet switch. The doubleshot ABS caps would look nice if they were new, but they have become shiny in a non-uniform way, so I think I will replace at least the alpha keys with dye-sub PBT. Allthough I would prefer not to have Italic font on the board, I'll probably use caps from a Granite SGI so that the alpha keys and NumPad keys will have a consistent look.
Unfortunately, the mods have also picked up inconsistent shine, so I might replace these as well. This might take two weeks or so, as I am waiting for some Alps caps to arrive.
When I get the board pulled together, I will post some pics, perhaps in a separate brief review.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3GXeUse.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9Ni6GmI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QtPZYTI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/t4CzGqt.jpg)
You might think it looks a little funky, but I decided to put on some uniform/non-sculpted cylindrical caps that I got from itzmeluigi in a trade. They're Chinese PBT key caps. They are similar to some caps I got off of Sharp PA-1000H typewriters in that they have no sculpt, but these are indeed PBT (the Sharp had ABS caps), which is really nice.
I slapped them onto the Orion because it has a rather steep incline and I thought the uniform cylindrical caps would be at home on the board. They feel amazing. Much nicer than the AT101 caps I had on before, to be honest.
The way my fingers can slide between keys and rows just makes the overall experience very smooth. They're about as tall as the ASDF row of standard Alps profile key caps.
Had to be crafty with some of the key placement. Used the number pad keys for the function row, and I also used some Acer key caps for the mods that these Chinese sets did not cover. I think it all blended together quite well. :)
After a "new" board for a SKCL Green swap. It rhymes with Bang and you've seen it before :p
Hah. It's a Wang. That same one I tried to get back in July but the guy went dark on me. He reposted it. Perfect for a SKCL Green swap. Either i'm smart or a Alps marauder who makes some freaky Alps Frankenstein stuff :pAfter a "new" board for a SKCL Green swap. It rhymes with Bang and you've seen it before :p
Those Chang boards really are something though. :thumb:
Hah. It's a Wang. That same one I tried to get back in July but the guy went dark on me. He reposted it. Perfect for a SKCL Green swap. Either i'm smart or a Alps marauder who makes some freaky Alps Frankenstein stuff :pAfter a "new" board for a SKCL Green swap. It rhymes with Bang and you've seen it before :p
Those Chang boards really are something though. :thumb:
Orange in an SGI, Green in Wang? What is this sorcery?! Could of just bought a ZKB-2 and a AEK. All I know is that my solder tip is ****ing destroyed. Its almost a stub at this point. The tip part of the tip is holding on by a thread. Looks like a mouse took a huge bite out of the side :))
my first iron, some cheapo Weller. The tip got dirty and just kinda unsightly, so I sanded it to a fine tip again, which just so happened to be copper, to my surprise, and the solder ended up eating away at it and it got down to a nub.
What color are the switches? They feel dampened.Salmon. Tactile non-damped.
What color are the switches? They feel dampened.Salmon. Tactile non-damped.
@Mattr567: Glad the vinegar is doing its work. If you are going to do much of this sort of thing, consider getting an ultrasonic cleaning bath. Upon a recommendation from XMIT, I got an iSonic P4820-WPB through Amazon for under $90 shipped. Thus far, I've tried it out on switch parts and keycaps, and it works great.I tried using a cheap ultrasonic cleaner to clean my TaoBao Blue ALPS and it didn't really make a difference at all. I think I just need to break down and buy a nice one like that at some point :p
I also need some help with restoring switches. I have some SKCM Whites that don't register, although they are assembled properly and feel normal. When I open the switch and manually press the dot in the contact leaf, it registers fine. Does anyone have experience with this? Is it a worn out top housing? Or is there maybe something wrong with contact leaf? In any case, did anyone ever manage to recover switches from this state?Yes actually. I had this happen once on my Parkard. I bent the little hammer/dot on the contact leaf back a bit and then blew a ton of air through it with compressed air. Fixed it right up.
Thanks for sharing your experience, guys. The switches were extremely dirty to start with, and there is still some dirt in them on the bottom of the inside of the bottom housing, even after cleaning them with q-tip soaked in isopropanol (I may try vinegar as well), so I wouldn't be surprised if there is dirt on the switch plate as well.Oh, now I know what you mean by dot. You have to remove the contact leaf entirely and use a toothpick or something to bend the little hammer in the center away from the assembly a bit. Don't break it off. Then blow dust into the hammer/behind it.
@Mattr567 can you clarify for me "bent the little hammer/dot on the contact leaf back a bit". I translate this in my head as pulling the contact leaf out a bit, blowing air between contact leaf and switch plate, and then let it settle back. Am I reading this right?
So the vinegar and denture tab bath's made a considerable difference, but it's still not there. At this point is it just bad plastic? Where do I go from here?Wait, did you add denture tabs to the vinegar? Oo
Here is an example of a rough spot in a slider well. The two 'white' lines.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZSIWJR.jpg)
No. I just mentioned them both since combined they made a big difference. That doesn't sound like a terrible idea imao :))So the vinegar and denture tab bath's made a considerable difference, but it's still not there. At this point is it just bad plastic? Where do I go from here?Wait, did you add denture tabs to the vinegar? Oo
Here is an example of a rough spot in a slider well. The two 'white' lines.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZSIWJR.jpg)
Now THAT looks very nice. Very tasteful, I like how you've gone with actual AT101 caps, too :) . I've always liked the font on most Alps boards (is it Helvetica?). Great job :) .
@Dokyun: That Dell looks nice. Is it the model with the black case, or did you paint a standard Dell AT101W black? For me, the red CapsLock would have to be Ctrl.
Now THAT looks very nice. Very tasteful, I like how you've gone with actual AT101 caps, too :) . I've always liked the font on most Alps boards (is it Helvetica?). Great job :) .
Thanks! Most of the alphas are actually from an SK-6000 ergo keyboard - which is also made by Siltek so they almost certainly came off the exact same tooling. The backslash and spacebar are from an actual white AT101 though, I'm not sure if those are more cream colored in comparison naturally or if they've just in the beginning stages of yellowing.@Dokyun: That Dell looks nice. Is it the model with the black case, or did you paint a standard Dell AT101W black? For me, the red CapsLock would have to be Ctrl.
It's the black one. If I hadn't oafishly thrown away the old caps lock key when it broke I would've just kept the whole thing black and white. Ctrl instead of caps lock would be more balanced I agree, but that key hasn't broken yet ;) I actually dyed a scroll lock key as well to give the false allusion to there being some significance to the lock keys, but I feel adding any more than 3 red keys and the LEDs starts to make the color harmony more analogous with red instead of using it as a compliment...making it properly analogous would require dying a lot more caps and wouldn't look as good anyways.
They're ABS. I used iDye Poly and a handheld strainer, dipping them into...I'd say slightly under a boil water for a few seconds at a time, pulling them out before they had a chance to begin warping. With ABS it seems the first dunk into the mixture is the most important, it saturates into the plastic predominantly on that pass I think. Subsequent dunks are mostly to make it more vibrant and hope any imperfections are corrected. They need to be squeaky clean as well, any oils or dirt on them will show up pretty clearly...I used my bare hands to drop them in after I cleaned them but I think in the future I'd probably use gloves. Overall the whole process only took a few minutes, it only takes a few plunges to get to the point of diminishing returns.
Supposedly RIT changed the formula of dyemore recently and it's no longer viable for dying caps, wonder if that's what happened to you? Grey on grey should never produce yellowish brown :p
Oh, now I know what you mean by dot. You have to remove the contact leaf entirely and use a toothpick or something to bend the little hammer in the center away from the assembly a bit. Don't break it off. Then blow dust into the hammer/behind it.
Don't combine the two :p .No. I just mentioned them both since combined they made a big difference. That doesn't sound like a terrible idea imao :))So the vinegar and denture tab bath's made a considerable difference, but it's still not there. At this point is it just bad plastic? Where do I go from here?Wait, did you add denture tabs to the vinegar? Oo
Here is an example of a rough spot in a slider well. The two 'white' lines.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZSIWJR.jpg)
I don't know for linears, but I just put SGI keycaps on SKCM oranges. I just did it for the F keys, and I don't know if it's because they are so high up, but the sound is deeply pleasant. And I mean that in a literal sense - it is some heavy bass.
@Mattr567: I think what Chyros is getting at regarding his comment about not combining vinegar and denture tabs is that the two would tend to neutralize each other and produce more mineral salts in the process. The denture tabs contain an excess of base in the form of sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate. They already contain some citric acid that reacts with the sodium bicarbonate to produce effervescent bubbles of carbon dioxide gas when the tabs are dropped into water. The leftover sodium carbonate is a fairly strong base that helps with the cleaning, and there is some sodium percarbonate to act as an oxidizing agent, which can whiten some stains in plastic. If you were to add vinegar (which is diluted acetic acid), this would neutralize the sodium carbonate, thus negating the cleaning action of this base and negating the potential action of the acetic acid on the white residue you are hoping to dissolve.Oh, I see. being chemists you guys must know what your talking about :p
Regarding Wang 725-3770 keyboards, as you might know, Bob Tibbetts has some of these to sell that are NIB. I bought one from him a few years ago. At that time, I think his price was $150 plus UPS shipping and insurance. Being brand new, they are of course in pristine condition. Here is the link to his site:
http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/
Oh, now I know what you mean by dot. You have to remove the contact leaf entirely and use a toothpick or something to bend the little hammer in the center away from the assembly a bit. Don't break it off. Then blow dust into the hammer/behind it.
Thanks, that clarified it. And it seems it worked! Well, almost. The key definitely registers now, but it's flakey sometimes. Still, it's progress, and I think it'll work better once I desolder the switches, take out the switch plate and do it properly.
To all you chemists watching, do you see any issue in putting the switch plate (without contact leaf), and bottom switch casing in vinegar bath?
Regarding Wang 725-3770 keyboards, as you might know, Bob Tibbetts has some of these to sell that are NIB. I bought one from him a few years ago. At that time, I think his price was $150 plus UPS shipping and insurance. Being brand new, they are of course in pristine condition. Here is the link to his site:I was just back and forth with him within the past few weeks and he's lowered the price on those Wangs to $125, still pricey IMO.
Whats this?Whatever it is Ill be willing to throw a bid at it if noone else wants it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232073377873
Whatever it is Ill be willing to throw a bid at it if noone else wants it.Ooh, neat, those keycaps could definitely be handy for a future project :thumb:
On the subject of mystery boards, the laptop I bought awhile back had thick alps made doubleshots with a really strange uniform profile and skfl metal top switches.
Whats this?My gut feeling is linear Alps or some sort of a rubber dome. Seems unlikely that it's an early Topre board.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232073377873
To anyone who has tried them both, is there a difference in color of mod keycaps between beige and granite SGI bigfoots? I can't tell from pics online as white balance is an issue, so on some pics, granite mods look quite different in color than those that I have.
I have a Granite set, and I can attest to the mods being a rather cold gray, which I do not like. Given that I generally prefer warmer colors, if the Beige SGI has mods with a red hue, I would probably like these better.
E3E, I certainly agree with you about the font. I don't like an Italic or Oblique font on keycaps. This is unfortunate, because some of the best-quality dye-sub PBT Alps-mount keycaps are to be found on various SGI and Apple boards, which use an Italic or Oblique font, respectively.
It would be useful for the rest of us (read: me :)) if anyone of you two had both set of keycaps in possession at the same time to take some comparison pics ;D
Great refrerence, thanks! Can you do the same with mods, where they differ from alphas?
That Chinese set of yours is certainly handsome. I wonder what accounts for the degree of whiteness? Perhaps their formulation included some white pigment, such as Titanium Dioxide.
Won the mystery sony board, will update when I get it.
I also won another white alps board, with a really strange layout and a touchpad. fun stuff!
Haha posted it awhile back. They were skfls with nice thick alps made doubleshots with a really strange uniform profile.Won the mystery sony board, will update when I get it.
I also won another white alps board, with a really strange layout and a touchpad. fun stuff!
What ever happen to that laptop someone won a while back where the guy in that one video said they were "white Alps switches"? Did that ever get documented? Give us the goods!
Haha posted it awhile back. They were skfls with nice thick alps made doubleshots with a really strange uniform profile.Won the mystery sony board, will update when I get it.
I also won another white alps board, with a really strange layout and a touchpad. fun stuff!
What ever happen to that laptop someone won a while back where the guy in that one video said they were "white Alps switches"? Did that ever get documented? Give us the goods!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Tellervision-clicky-Keyboard-Model-No-GP101CB-Ver-3-1-/331962089019?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=w6bkSV2vH4ZY9V%252FKBcp2XsyX9qA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Tellervision-clicky-Keyboard-Model-No-GP101CB-Ver-3-1-/331962089019?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=w6bkSV2vH4ZY9V%252FKBcp2XsyX9qA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc)If these caps are double-shot, I would want to track one down for just that as well. Particularly because these caps could go onto a funky, RedScarf-esque layout I wanted to try building.
Here is the other board I won, looks like a cool thing to cut into a 60% with a strange bottom row.
Pretty sure theyre pad printed, I really just bought it for the switches and plate. there is another one currently on ebay for the same price from the same seller.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Tellervision-clicky-Keyboard-Model-No-GP101CB-Ver-3-1-/331962089019?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=w6bkSV2vH4ZY9V%252FKBcp2XsyX9qA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Tellervision-clicky-Keyboard-Model-No-GP101CB-Ver-3-1-/331962089019?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=w6bkSV2vH4ZY9V%252FKBcp2XsyX9qA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc)If these caps are double-shot, I would want to track one down for just that as well. Particularly because these caps could go onto a funky, RedScarf-esque layout I wanted to try building.
Here is the other board I won, looks like a cool thing to cut into a 60% with a strange bottom row.
@E3E That's coming along quite nicely, I think the 7u modifications were probably worth it Also, did you happen to get a model number or any other identifying information about the board that you sourced those caps from? Do you have any pictures of it before you harvested the caps? I can't remember if you told us or not.
@E3E That's exactly what I want to do. Can you share some more info on the stuff you used?
I want to move a stem on stepped caps lock keycap to fit on a board with non-stepped caps lock key position. I was worried about cleanly cutting the stem in the first place as I was hoping to reuse it, but also there's an option to sacrifice another keycap, cut it completely, and then gain access to the stem. Now I don't know if I can take ABS stem and glue it to PBS keycap, and if I can do it with "plain" two-component epoxy that I have. Any help is appreciated.
Completely unrelated, that NeXT board I got, it has SKCM Creams :thumb: It's still not in my posession, but soon enough.
Thanks, man. Definitely feels pretty awesome to have modded a space bar to the point of functioning like an actual 7u Alps made space bar and retaining all of the texture on the top surface. It was painstaking but I'm happy with it!Hmm, it's a shame there's so little information about it. Perhaps we'll find an intact specimen at some point or another. It's definitely an interesting board.
It's a very obscure keyboard, but it's some kind of Alps integrated dome keyboard.
Whats this?Whatever it is Ill be willing to throw a bid at it if noone else wants it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232073377873
Won the mystery sony board, will update when I get it.
if it is domes, they still may have alps compatible keycaps, alot of dome with slider switches used alps stems.Thanks, man. Definitely feels pretty awesome to have modded a space bar to the point of functioning like an actual 7u Alps made space bar and retaining all of the texture on the top surface. It was painstaking but I'm happy with it!Hmm, it's a shame there's so little information about it. Perhaps we'll find an intact specimen at some point or another. It's definitely an interesting board.
It's a very obscure keyboard, but it's some kind of Alps integrated dome keyboard.Whats this?Whatever it is Ill be willing to throw a bid at it if noone else wants it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232073377873Won the mystery sony board, will update when I get it.
When I saw this board, I remembered seeing it somewhere before but couldn't place it. Today I found it on Taobao again and, unfortunately, it seems like it's a membrane keyboard. Here are some pictures:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cC0PQ2Y.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oKg4fZe.png)
Perhaps you might still get something more interesting but I just thought I'd share.
The solution I used was extremely low-tech >.>This is actually really good information, I know what I'm going to try on the handful of switches on my AT101W that have an upstroke click :D
I cut out pieces of paper the width and twice the height of the tactile leaves, folded them down, and inserted them behind the leaves, which completely removed the upstroke click. A single layer of graph paper was not enough, but with the fold, it was enough. There's still the problem of the spacebar stabilizer, but I'm not sure I want to silence that. It provides a bit of aural punctuation.
The "I thought Alps were crap" bit made me cringe but I'm willing to look past it, haha.It's always like that :p . Either they haven't tried them, or they tried a crappy board :p . Of course there are people who genuinely don't like Alps even in great condition, but I've found an overwhelming majority of people who are exposed to them get hooked immediately. And for many of them, there's so much more out them to blow them away even more! :D
In today's mail I received a Zenith 163-73. It has yellow Alps and dye-sub PBT caps. It is XT/AT-selectable via a DIP switch on the back of the keyboard. I am typing on it now in AT mode. The yellow switches are quite smooth and reported as slightly heavier than green Alps, but I have not yet tried them side by side.Try to clean the switchplate, maybe compressed air will help as well. If cleaning efforts fail you can replace the switch, or even just the switchplate.
The board is very clean with no corrosion on the plate. It also feels very solid. Unfortunately, there is one key that responds only intermittently -- the Backspace/Pipe key to the right of the shortened Right Shift. This is particularly unwanted, because I plan to use this key as Fn. I am hoping that the key will become fully functional after cleaning -- including using a contact cleaner.
I am also considering a click/tactile mod, but I first I want to test out the board thoroughly with unmodified switches.
Suggestions welcome for a possible click/tactile mod. I am not sure which components (slider, top housing, spring, tactile/click leaf) would be compatible with the bottom housing and switchplate in yellow Alps.
Some potential donor Alps or Alps-clone switches that I have available include black, blue, damped cream, undamped cream, white, damped white, Matias Click, and Matias Quiet.
I did have quite a few brown Alps in IBM 5140 boards, but I've been selling these, and the last one is currently collecting bids (I found brown Alps a bit too stiff for prolonged typing).
Some potential donor Alps or Alps-clone switches that I have available include black, blue, damped cream, undamped cream, white, damped white, Matias Click, and Matias Quiet.
With your selection of tactile switches at hand I wouldn't do a tactile mod, as none of those are particularly smoothly tactile, and I think the tactile leaf is to blame for it.
Oh yeah, I missed SKCM Cream. You can use blue leaves too, but if anything those are quite valuable as originals. It might be better to just solder in the blues as a whole.Some potential donor Alps or Alps-clone switches that I have available include black, blue, damped cream, undamped cream, white, damped white, Matias Click, and Matias Quiet.
With your selection of tactile switches at hand I wouldn't do a tactile mod, as none of those are particularly smoothly tactile, and I think the tactile leaf is to blame for it.
Blue and Cream switches are smooth though! At least in my opinion. :P I think either would be a fine choice. Both use tall switch plates as opposed to the SKCL Yellow's short plates, but it shouldn't cause much of an issue.
Yeah, like Chyros says, you will need SKCM top housings for the mod, but that should be obvious.
This keyboard also holds the record among keyboards I have owned for the highest number of stabilized switches -- 12 in all, including the spacebar. With the exception of the "square J" Return/Enter key, which binds if pressed on the ascending portion of the "J", all the stabilized keys work smoothly and quietly with no binding or rattling.Yes, Zenith were very fond of stabilisers xD . There's 13 in my ZKB-2R, which also replaced the rod stabiliser with another wire one, hence the extra. Well, it's stabilised all right! xD
This keyboard also holds the record among keyboards I have owned for the highest number of stabilized switches -- 12 in all, including the spacebar. With the exception of the "square J" Return/Enter key, which binds if pressed on the ascending portion of the "J", all the stabilized keys work smoothly and quietly with no binding or rattling.Yes, Zenith were very fond of stabilisers xD . There's 13 in my ZKB-2R, which also replaced the rod stabiliser with another wire one, hence the extra. Well, it's stabilised all right! xD
The stabilizers in the Toshiba T1200 "laptop" are amazing -- they look like steel rods rather than wires. Very serious stability!
Some more research for anyone pursuing the goal of silent Alps -Sounds good!
As you may have seen in the typing video earlier, the space bar was the loudest key by several orders of magnitude.
I could have lubed the stabilizer, but before I busted out the Teflon spray, I had another idea. There are clips on the underside of the space bar that hold the wire stabilizer in place, and besides the stabilization plunger, they are the lowest elements on the bar.
So I cut some of the sticking rubber foot material that came with my Sentraq case down to size, and affixed it to each of the clips. Additionally, I took an O-ring from another keyboard, twisted it double, and stuck it on the base of the stabilizing peg on the keycap.
This is the result:
I am unsure as to whether or not I should do anything about the other stabilized keys, but none of them were as egregious as the space bar.
So instead of buying a $70 5140 I decided i'm going to buy a Pingmaster. What are my conversion options? I really like Chyros's layout and want to use it.Ping masters are definitely different, I have a certain fondness for mine but I have never used it... Mostly because I never got an adapter. Was going to build my own with a Teensy but I know Hasu sells them. I was lucky enough to get mine when the NIB Japanese ones were still on eBay :D
Good choice? ;)
So instead of buying a $70 5140 I decided i'm going to buy a Pingmaster. What are my conversion options? I really like Chyros's layout and want to use it.
Good choice? ;)
So instead of buying a $70 5140 I decided i'm going to buy a Pingmaster. What are my conversion options? I really like Chyros's layout and want to use it.Mine came pre-converter thankfully, it's got a Soarer's on it. The Soarer's comes with a bizarre layout by default but you can reprogram it — I might still have the file lying around if you're interested :) . The switches are a little stiff for my taste, but they're really smooth and I type pretty fast on it. Good choice, it's a nice board! :)
Good choice? ;)
I posted this on DT, but for those who are not active there, just a small treat.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/16RjCq2.jpg)
Don't be too jealous though, about two thirds of those blues are not actually working :/ I'll have to disassemble the switch plates, clean them, and see if that helps.
Are those SKCM Oranges? They look so red in the picture.
So instead of buying a $70 5140 I decided i'm going to buy a Pingmaster. What are my conversion options? I really like Chyros's layout and want to use it.Extremely good choice. I'm typing this reply on my Pingmaster right now. I prefer the SKCC Greens to the loose SKCM Green and even Honeywell Hall effect switches that I've tried. Having a sculpted spherical profile, doubleshots, and BNIB IBM/Alps quality all in one makes it, in my opinion, one of the best keyboards money can buy. Certainly the best deal out there in the world of vintage keyboards. That also might be because I'm a total Japanophile and I love the legends.
Good choice? ;)
Appreciate this boys :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/DFwxDAq.jpg)
Unfortunately it really highlights how yellowed the case is. Any suggestions for colors to paint the case?Appreciate this boys :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/DFwxDAq.jpg)
Matias white blanks, eh? They look quite nice. :cool:
White goes good with almost anything, that being said I think it would look good in black or white.Unfortunately it really highlights how yellowed the case is. Any suggestions for colors to paint the case?Appreciate this boys :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/DFwxDAq.jpg)
Matias white blanks, eh? They look quite nice. :cool:
@mike52787: You might try charcoal gray or graphite so that the difference from the white keycaps would not be as stark as it would be with black.+1 to this, I like this idea. Industrial Gray could be interesting as well if you could find a suitable paint. I'd also consider sticker-bombing it or hydro-dipping it.
I agree with hypersphere. I think charcoal grey, like a nice modern, cool grey, would go fantastic in contrast with the pure white key caps.Well, Ill soon be disassembling this baby to swap in the SKCM Creams I bought from MandrewDavis, so when its open and desoldered, I ll paint the plate. Ive heard that omnikey pcbs are a pain in the ass to remove due to the soldered bolts, but I had good luck removing the bolts on my avant prime.
That said, my first thought was a sterile-looking all-white, which would be kind of stunning for a big ol' behmoth like that.
Go for the charcoal though! Oh, you could even do a dual tone kind of thing. Charcoal top and white metal back plate. That'd be sliiiick.
I agree with hypersphere. I think charcoal grey, like a nice modern, cool grey, would go fantastic in contrast with the pure white key caps.Well, Ill soon be disassembling this baby to swap in the SKCM Creams I bought from MandrewDavis, so when its open and desoldered, I ll paint the plate. Ive heard that omnikey pcbs are a pain in the ass to remove due to the soldered bolts, but I had good luck removing the bolts on my avant prime.
That said, my first thought was a sterile-looking all-white, which would be kind of stunning for a big ol' behmoth like that.
Go for the charcoal though! Oh, you could even do a dual tone kind of thing. Charcoal top and white metal back plate. That'd be sliiiick.
Off the topic of my omnikey, I recieved my granite today and I also recieved the sony mystery board. Rubberdomes -_- The granite caps are so beautiful though, I know the font is subjective, but I love it!
Ive heard that omnikey pcbs are a pain in the ass to remove due to the soldered bolts, but I had good luck removing the bolts on my avant prime.
http://i.imgur.com/BEDjCIj.pngAh, so they are selling Lightcycle outside of just the MiniVan... Let's get the hype train rolling, guess I'll need to build a board to use this set on.
New keycap set from evangs on reddit, will be available in alps.
It's DSA, presumably abs and presumably massdrop
http://i.imgur.com/BEDjCIj.png
New keycap set from evangs on reddit, will be available in alps.
It's DSA, presumably abs and presumably massdrop
If the Alps set is DSA profile, I will pass. I cannot type on a flat profile. I need a sculpted profile, both for typing and aesthetics.+1. DSA is miserable to type on for me. Set looks great though.
I thought that all off them had that metal weight inside,
Does the actual model matter as well (041-0136-001 vs 9500900) or is it just the vintage?
IIRC they only came with '97SK models, possibly also '95SK ones (can't remember off the top of my head).
Does the actual model matter as well (041-0136-001 vs 9500900) or is it just the vintage?
I really don't know, I did not pay attention that well.
I have only had 2 bars, and I am sure that they came from AT101s, not AT101Ws.
new layout with ALPS build. http://imgur.com/a/6OyN9That's quite slick, I dig it. Did you handwire that all or did you make a PCB?
new layout with ALPS build. http://imgur.com/a/6OyN9
Just got 2 NeXTs worth of SKCM Creams in the mail. Thanks @MandrewDavis <3
Just got 2 NeXTs worth of SKCM Creams in the mail. Thanks @MandrewDavis <3
Likewise! And some caps.
Thanks man! I've been bad with getting your switches out, but I'll do that soon. :-X
Local AT101W for $10, should I buy? Then I can part out the SGI I guess and mount them SKCM White Damp's in it and or sell them if I decide to keep the Black's for whatever reason and save $50. SGI caps can be $$. Plus its nice to not have 2 of the exact boards in a way.
The ****ty mic I usually use doesent even begin to capture the sound of these babies. take a listen. sounds even better in person.Sounds a bit similar to an AEK, would you say that's a comparable sound?
http://vocaroo.com/i/s1w89iBxTr8S (http://vocaroo.com/i/s1w89iBxTr8S)
The ****ty mic I usually use doesent even begin to capture the sound of these babies. take a listen. sounds even better in person.Thanks for posting the audio clip. It's difficult to interpret without calibrating the ear to your mic setup with a comparison to a more familiar keyboard recorded with the mic and keyboard in the same relative positions to each other. But that's a hassle, and if Chyros thinks the sound is similar to an AEK, that's good enough for me.
http://vocaroo.com/i/s1w89iBxTr8S (http://vocaroo.com/i/s1w89iBxTr8S)
The ****ty mic I usually use doesent even begin to capture the sound of these babies. take a listen. sounds even better in person.Yeah, it's really hard to get a nice keyboard recording with ****ty microphones. I have had bad results in the past and, in an attempt to replicate them, I just made another recording of some Blue Alps. You can give it a listen here (https://instaud.io/yjD) but it definitely doesn't do them any justice :p
http://vocaroo.com/i/s1w89iBxTr8S (http://vocaroo.com/i/s1w89iBxTr8S)
I had an AEK, and the case did have this great bassy sound. It's hard to tell if it sounds all that similar in your clip though. Hmm. Cream tactiles do have a great sound to them either way.Yeah, I really liked my AEK... before I tore it apart to put the switches into an AT101W. It's hard to say which one I liked more, to be honest. Probably the AT101W just because it has a more common layout and interface.
Pulled out my V60 MTS w/ SKCL Green wearing the IBM Multistation caps and I forgot how nice it is. Get's me excited for the Pingmaster, it comes tomorrow.SKCL green and SKCC are strongly related, but still feel quite different IMO. I found SKCC switches to have a distinct buttery feeling that SKCL don't have, and the weighting is different. That's not to say SKCC is more smooth, it's just buttery. Maybe when you get your Pingmaster you'll find something similar.
Who among us actually uses his Leading Edge DC-2014 as opposed to putting it into a coma and harvesting its blue Alps switches?I killed two of them... so I could do this:
Future options I'm considering include transplanting blue Alps into a standard US ANSI chassis, such as a Northgate Omnikey 101, top- modding the white Alps in a Northgate Omnikey 101 to orange Alps (what combination of slider, leaf, and spring would be best here?), and doing a custom build 60% with blue or orange Alps.I already built the 60% and I'll transfer the remaining switches into an Omnikey 101 when I eventually get one. I am also planning on building a 104-key Brown Alps keyboard at some point or another - probably cutting an acrylic sandwich-style case and using the PCB from an AT101W. Why go through all that trouble? I want to use the DSA Lightcycle keycaps in a modern layout that's not a 60% and they use Cherry stabs which means I don't have any options here. Perhaps there's a rare Ortek or Chicony keyboard but I'm not particularly fond of the aesthetics of either brand.
I already built the 60% and I'll transfer the remaining switches into an Omnikey 101 when I eventually get one. I am also planning on building a 104-key Brown Alps keyboard at some point or another - probably cutting an acrylic sandwich-style case and using the PCB from an AT101W. Why go through all that trouble? I want to use the DSA Lightcycle keycaps in a modern layout that's not a 60% and they use Cherry stabs which means I don't have any options here. Perhaps there's a rare Ortek or Chicony keyboard but I'm not particularly fond of the aesthetics of either brand.What do you think about the monterey k104? It has a pretty modern layout, all but the bigass enter. I have modded a BAE board to ansi enter and 1.75u backslash. Possibly use a leeku mx/alps pcb if you can find one, I still havent forund one and actually gave up looking. The only lead I got was from alienman82, and it was in china and reasonably overpriced.
I already built the 60% and I'll transfer the remaining switches into an Omnikey 101 when I eventually get one. I am also planning on building a 104-key Brown Alps keyboard at some point or another - probably cutting an acrylic sandwich-style case and using the PCB from an AT101W. Why go through all that trouble? I want to use the DSA Lightcycle keycaps in a modern layout that's not a 60% and they use Cherry stabs which means I don't have any options here. Perhaps there's a rare Ortek or Chicony keyboard but I'm not particularly fond of the aesthetics of either brand.What do you think about the monterey k104? It has a pretty modern layout, all but the bigass enter. I have modded a BAE board to ansi enter and 1.75u backslash. Possibly use a leeku mx/alps pcb if you can find one, I still havent forund one and actually gave up looking. The only lead I got was from alienman82, and it was in china and reasonably overpriced.
What do you think about the monterey k104? It has a pretty modern layout, all but the bigass enter. I have modded a BAE board to ansi enter and 1.75u backslash. Possibly use a leeku mx/alps pcb if you can find one, I still havent forund one and actually gave up looking. The only lead I got was from alienman82, and it was in china and reasonably overpriced.What's the best way to go about ANSI-modding a board like that? Using a nibbler tool to cut out a switch socket from the plate and swapping the PCB??
That would be a rather slick option... if I could find one.What do you think about the monterey k104? It has a pretty modern layout, all but the bigass enter. I have modded a BAE board to ansi enter and 1.75u backslash. Possibly use a leeku mx/alps pcb if you can find one, I still havent forund one and actually gave up looking. The only lead I got was from alienman82, and it was in china and reasonably overpriced.You could try to find a Filco Zero full size and use it for a swap.
When I did it I used a dremel tool with a small cut off wheel. It worked great. I cut the hole slightly too small on purpose and used a file to clean up the hole. I agree that the K104's case is too large, but if you're going for a fullsize, why not go for a huge board? The omnikey 101 isnt much different size-wise from the monterey.What do you think about the monterey k104? It has a pretty modern layout, all but the bigass enter. I have modded a BAE board to ansi enter and 1.75u backslash. Possibly use a leeku mx/alps pcb if you can find one, I still havent forund one and actually gave up looking. The only lead I got was from alienman82, and it was in china and reasonably overpriced.What's the best way to go about ANSI-modding a board like that? Using a nibbler tool to cut out a switch socket from the plate and swapping the PCB??
In any case, I'm not particularly keen on the Monterey K104 simply because of the fact that it is kind of bulky. I could try and slim mod it but that sounds like way more work than just cutting acrylic pieces on a laser cutter. My university provides deeply discounted materials and has public-access laser cutters so I would not be paying much to go down this route. I already have a spare AT101W PCB as well. Would love to find a Leeku PCB but NKRO is largely optional for my line of work and it's not like I would be gaming on this board. In addition, I could always add re-programmability via one of Hasu's adapters as well.
I'm thinking blue alps, what about you guys? I'm kinda wallethacked right now though unfortunately.Looks very KT F&F to me Oo .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-QUIMAX-System-KM-5170-Office-Standard-Keyboard-Free-Expedited-Shipping/232082890081?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3D43a604716a0040a2851d969e01998583%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D232082890081%26clkid%3D8521694393798925062&_qi=RTM2247625 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-QUIMAX-System-KM-5170-Office-Standard-Keyboard-Free-Expedited-Shipping/232082890081?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3D43a604716a0040a2851d969e01998583%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D232082890081%26clkid%3D8521694393798925062&_qi=RTM2247625)
damn no way then. I had that thought but I wanted to be optimistic :D I have seen some alps boards in this xt layout with similar caps though. Cant remember model numbers or anything though.I'm thinking blue alps, what about you guys? I'm kinda wallethacked right now though unfortunately.Looks very KT F&F to me Oo .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-QUIMAX-System-KM-5170-Office-Standard-Keyboard-Free-Expedited-Shipping/232082890081?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3D43a604716a0040a2851d969e01998583%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D232082890081%26clkid%3D8521694393798925062&_qi=RTM2247625 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-QUIMAX-System-KM-5170-Office-Standard-Keyboard-Free-Expedited-Shipping/232082890081?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3D43a604716a0040a2851d969e01998583%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D232082890081%26clkid%3D8521694393798925062&_qi=RTM2247625)
When I did it I used a dremel tool with a small cut off wheel. It worked great. I cut the hole slightly too small on purpose and used a file to clean up the hole. I agree that the K104's case is too large, but if you're going for a fullsize, why not go for a huge board? The omnikey 101 isnt much different size-wise from the monterey.Does the K104's PCB already have pins for an extra switch there?
I'm thinking blue alps, what about you guys? I'm kinda wallethacked right now though unfortunately.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-QUIMAX-System-KM-5170-Office-Standard-Keyboard-Free-Expedited-Shipping/232082890081 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-QUIMAX-System-KM-5170-Office-Standard-Keyboard-Free-Expedited-Shipping/232082890081)
Well the reason I'm leaning away from a traditional, vintage host is that I'd like a "floating keys" keyboard.
I would consider NeXT non-ADB horizontal enter variant also an ANSI board. However, with all right alpha/mod keys being shortened on the right, this throws a wrench to your plan of remapping backslash to backspace.Same.
Also the Flico Zero and Ducky 1087 and 1087XM.
I would consider NeXT non-ADB horizontal enter variant also an ANSI board. However, with all right alpha/mod keys being shortened on the right, this throws a wrench to your plan of remapping backslash to backspace.I own that board and forgot to list it! Thanks for the reminder. Actually, although the Backslash key is only 1.00x, it is in the right position, and so it works for me.
I would consider NeXT non-ADB horizontal enter variant also an ANSI board. However, with all right alpha/mod keys being shortened on the right, this throws a wrench to your plan of remapping backslash to backspace.I own that board and forgot to list it! Thanks for the reminder. Actually, although the Backslash key is only 1.00x, it is in the right position, and so it works for me.
@fohat: The Kingsaver is a custom board, correct? I should have added to the criteria to exclude custom boards. However, if we include them, then there are a number of additional possibilities, especially in the 60% category.
It was ****ing glorious.
Seems like they had very different profiles just looking at the Multistation key caps compared to the Pingmaster's. Looks nice though!I was under the impression that in similar condition, all linear Alps feel about the same. I am curious as well.
Looks like Alps used the same color codes for their switches initially when moving onto SKCL with Greens and linear Creams. :))
You like them more than SKCL Green? Get out of town. Now I'm curious.
Additions? Deletions?
Seems like they had very different profiles just looking at the Multistation key caps compared to the Pingmaster's. Looks nice though!As Chryos said the difference is from ultra smooth (SKCL) to butter (SKCC), the way they go down and rebound is glorious. Super responsive. It loves to do what it's meant to do ;) Plus how can you pass up such an opportunity for so dirt cheap. The unboxing experience was worth it on its own and super satisfying. The smell's, looks and feeling is awesome. Feels like a mini time capsule.
Looks like Alps used the same color codes for their switches initially when moving onto SKCL with Greens and linear Creams. :))
You like them more than SKCL Green? Get out of town. Now I'm curious.
Seems like they had very different profiles just looking at the Multistation key caps compared to the Pingmaster's. Looks nice though!As Chryos said the difference is from ultra smooth (SKCL) to butter (SKCC), the way they go down and rebound is glorious. Super responsive. It loves to do what it's meant to do ;) Plus how can you pass up such an opportunity for so dirt cheap. The unboxing experience was worth it on its own and super satisfying. The smell's, looks and feeling is awesome. Feels like a mini time capsule.
Looks like Alps used the same color codes for their switches initially when moving onto SKCL with Greens and linear Creams. :))
You like them more than SKCL Green? Get out of town. Now I'm curious.
Also keep in mind the SKCL Greens from my Zenith are in great condition. The extra weight vs SKCL Green might have something to do with it also along with the design of SKCC. Wouldn't enjoy a board of Creams nearly as much though, too heavy.
Very nice. I would like to get lucky enough again to try and find SKCM Greens.Seems like they had very different profiles just looking at the Multistation key caps compared to the Pingmaster's. Looks nice though!As Chryos said the difference is from ultra smooth (SKCL) to butter (SKCC), the way they go down and rebound is glorious. Super responsive. It loves to do what it's meant to do ;) Plus how can you pass up such an opportunity for so dirt cheap. The unboxing experience was worth it on its own and super satisfying. The smell's, looks and feeling is awesome. Feels like a mini time capsule.
Looks like Alps used the same color codes for their switches initially when moving onto SKCL with Greens and linear Creams. :))
You like them more than SKCL Green? Get out of town. Now I'm curious.
Also keep in mind the SKCL Greens from my Zenith are in great condition. The extra weight vs SKCL Green might have something to do with it also along with the design of SKCC. Wouldn't enjoy a board of Creams nearly as much though, too heavy.
I felt the same way when I bought my NIB Xerox 6085. Seeing packaging as if it was made yesterday is amazing. :D This was not dirt cheap, however. :(Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ur8enGI.jpg)
Both examples just seem so modern to me, those plastic bags are from the future, man. :P Yeah, that smell is pretty awesome, which totally sounds weird, but it is!
Yeah, SKCL Brown is one of my favorite switches, though I love SKCL Green too. The heavier weight and cushiony feel on SKCL Brown is delightful, so maybe it's similar on these. Yeah, I should pick one up at this price point.
SKCM Greens are between Brown and Orange tactility wise. If you think Oranges aren't enough and Browns are too much Green's might be right up your ally.
SKCM Greens are between Brown and Orange tactility wise. If you think Oranges aren't enough and Browns are too much Green's might be right up your ally.
So, weight-wise, similar to salmon or creams? Both pine and bamboo?
Huh, I got the Japanese pingmaster and mine didn't come with any stickers. Looks like there's some blanks too, that would've been a lot nicer than my method of labeling caps (printing them out on a crummy laser printer.) I definitely recommend pulling the trigger on one of these if you can. NOS, sealed SKCC ALPS are unheard of, much less at a price point lower than most dirty SKCM boards now go for. Buying one of them is a treat that will almost certainly never come around again.Thats's funny, even my IBM unpacking slip mentions them in the box, does yours? I've seen a video of the beeper, super loud :p Thank god there's a volume knob. Excited to use mine.
Btw, I don't think anyone's actually recorded yet what the beep from the speaker sounds like...here's a short video I made a while ago:
Another funny keyboard pic from eBay:there better be a Model F in that boxShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/NIdESsx.jpg)
Another funny keyboard pic from eBay:there better be a Model F in that boxShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/NIdESsx.jpg)
If anyone is interested, there is an A2S4100 on eBay missing a few caps (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-APPLE-IIC-MODEL-A2S4100-COMPUTER-/222263772533?) for $50+shipping. Maybe someone can ask the seller to disassemble it and ship only the keyboard. Not many clicky switches have tactility like amber alps.
Today, a $45 Model-F in excellent condition popped up on eBay and happened to be only be 30 min away. Picked it up and so far, it reminds me a bit of blue alps.What kind of Model F did you get?
Lol, I know them feels man... but aren't Blue Alps generally considered to be better than Amber Alps?If anyone is interested, there is an A2S4100 on eBay missing a few caps (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-APPLE-IIC-MODEL-A2S4100-COMPUTER-/222263772533?) for $50+shipping. Maybe someone can ask the seller to disassemble it and ship only the keyboard. Not many clicky switches have tactility like amber alps.Oh thanks, ya shot down the one I had in my sights! Haha.
Today, a $45 Model-F in excellent condition popped up on eBay and happened to be only be 30 min away. Picked it up and so far, it reminds me a bit of blue alps.What kind of Model F did you get?
Lol, I know them feels man... but aren't Blue Alps generally considered to be better than Amber Alps?It depends on your perspective. I found them to be not quite as smooth actuating versus the Blue's b/c of the high tactility but they aren't bad by any means. Your gonna have to like heavy switches to truly appreciate them. Plate material and thickness is going to a have a huge impact as well. A non-custom plate would be recommend so it doesn't break your fingers with harshness.
Lol, I know them feels man... but aren't Blue Alps generally considered to be better than Amber Alps?
Let's turn for a moment... to a post in the not-so-distant past:Lol, I know them feels man... but aren't Blue Alps generally considered to be better than Amber Alps?It depends on your perspective. I found them to be not quite as smooth actuating versus the Blue's b/c of the high tactility but they aren't bad by any means. Your gonna have to like heavy switches to truly appreciate them. Plate material and thickness is going to a have a huge impact as well. A non-custom plate would be recommend so it doesn't break your fingers with harshness.
I am a nineteen year old web developer/software engineer that has a predilection for heavy switches with a nice clack.
Fair enough, that does sound quite harsh. How do you think an acrylic plate would interact with SKCM Brown Switches? I sourced the material for $5 and I am going to try to have it cut on Friday.Lol, I know them feels man... but aren't Blue Alps generally considered to be better than Amber Alps?
No, I don't think they are as smooth or have as nice of a click, but I wanted to restock on them and give them a shot once more. I'll probably end up disliking them again, but eh.
The tactility truly is rather harsh on them. It's just as if someone bent the click leaf bump to a 90 degree angle. It -catches- in a way.
Like Mattr says, a more flexible plate like the steel commonly used on OEM boards, or aluminum would probably be best. The carbon fiber plate gives SKCM Brown and SKCM Amber a finger-breaking vibe. Stainless is about just as bad.
Alps64 Cream Damped Keys and switches were harvested from an AEKII and cleaned by myself. The switches are cream damped which are a tactile switch. The plate and PCB are from Hasu's most recent GB. The plate is an experimental plate using 1.2mm FR-4 (PCB's are made out of this). It does not provide a noticeable difference. The PCB runs Hasu's excellent TMK firmware which has a GUI editor. Keyboard has a locking switch on the caps lock. Lastly the case is an orange 60% ziptye case with bumpons.
I can vouch for browns being very smooth in comparison. They have a similar "omph" to the tactility, but their tactility is definitely different. There's something about the bottom out that just kind of sends the tactility right into your fingers. Amber and Brown and Green all do this (less so with bamboo green) very harshly on a stiff plate.Interesting, now you're making me want to try them (Amber and Green, that is). By the way, don't expect to get the just the keyboard from that Apple IIc:
I think acrylic would handle it well. Did you see the guy on reddit (mechmarket) who cut a plate out of the same material that PCBs are made out of? I forget the name of it, but talk about a way to make something PCB-mount, right? I'll have to try and find the post.Excellent, so my master plan is tentatively E3E-approved :thumb:
EDIT: Here it is:QuoteAlps64 Cream Damped Keys and switches were harvested from an AEKII and cleaned by myself. The switches are cream damped which are a tactile switch. The plate and PCB are from Hasu's most recent GB. The plate is an experimental plate using 1.2mm FR-4 (PCB's are made out of this). It does not provide a noticeable difference. The PCB runs Hasu's excellent TMK firmware which has a GUI editor. Keyboard has a locking switch on the caps lock. Lastly the case is an orange 60% ziptye case with bumpons.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e0veByj.jpg)
No idea how rigid it ultimately would be with that material, but it is definitely creative.
Got AEK PCB plate and checked it with my Alps64 PCB, original AEK plate and Poker X case. Space bar and stabilized keys work and I didn't find any problem so far.
I didn't solder switches and fully assembled them though, I'd say my AEK plate is ready.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PWhZrK0.jpg)
Thats's funny, even my IBM unpacking slip mentions them in the box, does yours? I've seen a video of the beeper, super loud :p Thank god there's a volume knob. Excited to use mine.
How did you go about converting your board with your own layout? Have a layout in mind myself, similar to Chryos's with a few tweaks.
KEYMAP_ALPS102(
ESC, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 0, MINS,EQL, BSPC,BSPC,BSPC, INS,HOME,PGUP, NLCK, PSLS, PAST, PMNS, \
TAB, Q, W, E, R, T, Y, U, I, O, P, LBRC,RBRC,BSPC, NO, DEL, END, PGDN, 7, 8, 9, PPLS, \
CAPS,A, S, D, F, G, H, J, K, L, SCLN,QUOT,GRV, ENT, NO, NO, NO, NO, 4, 5, 6, PPLS, \
LSFT,Z, X, C, V, B, N, M, COMM,DOT, SLSH,RSFT,RSFT, NO, NO, UP, NO, 1, 2, 3, PENT, \
LCTL, LGUI,LALT, SPC, RALT,RGUI, FN0, LEFT,DOWN,RGHT, 0, 0, DOT, PENT \
),
At least he replied quickly... really quickly.
As opposed to this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-IBM-5140-PC-Convertible-Desktop-Computer-For-Parts-or-Not-Working-/401195917213) $40 5140 listing, where I didn't get a reply from the seller. It's a nice day to be on the west coast :)
That seller had two beige and two granite ones for $60 too, all used. I was trying to get one of each for a bit cheaper, but then some lucky b'stard swooped in and took the whole lot >:D ;DI think I got my granite from him, paid 55$ for it.
That seller had two beige and two granite ones for $60 too, all used. I was trying to get one of each for a bit cheaper, but then some lucky b'stard swooped in and took the whole lot >:D ;DI was really considering buying one of the beige ones and almost did several times. Then, I really thought about it and asked myself "what would I do with it?" and decided I'm better off waiting for an Omnikey. I am already working on a third/fourth (depending on how you count) project with an AT101[W] board, I don't need another :p
That seller had two beige and two granite ones for $60 too, all used. I was trying to get one of each for a bit cheaper, but then some lucky b'stard swooped in and took the whole lot >:D ;DI was really considering buying one of the beige ones and almost did several times. Then, I really thought about it and asked myself "what would I do with it?" and decided I'm better off waiting for an Omnikey. I am already working on a third/fourth (depending on how you count) project with an AT101[W] board, I don't need another :p
Yeah, I had a lot of stuff sitting around as well... probably not as much as you but I'm cutting back and trying to sell stuff nevertheless. I still have three or four boards I can't decide what to do with, namely my NeXT with SKCM Creams and Chicony with SMK 'Monterey Blues.' I like them but I don't think I'm ever going to use them. Dunno... I'll probably just get rid of everything besides my 60%'s, Orange-modded AT101W, Model M and my project boards (F107, MFSSK, Brown Alps 104-Key Build, Omnikey, Zealiostotles/MX Dark Blue). I feel like I'm approaching my endgame collection but give it a few months and I'll probably be singing a different song :pDude, I have so many switches and cap sets I'm not even using/don't have enough boards to use, and this IS talking about Alps. I'm not sure what I'm going to do to utilize them.That seller had two beige and two granite ones for $60 too, all used. I was trying to get one of each for a bit cheaper, but then some lucky b'stard swooped in and took the whole lot >:D ;DI was really considering buying one of the beige ones and almost did several times. Then, I really thought about it and asked myself "what would I do with it?" and decided I'm better off waiting for an Omnikey. I am already working on a third/fourth (depending on how you count) project with an AT101[W] board, I don't need another :p
Even with my hot swap builds, it's a little impractical. I'm also considering what to do with my heaping helping of Xerox boards. I like them, they're like family to me. Family I don't want to separate.
However... Having so many stowed away keyboards is kinda cray. I have to get a converter made for these, dammit.
@wingpad: When you say "orange-modded" Dell AT101W, what did you do? Did you open up the black Alps on the Dell, pull out the slider, spring, and leaf, and replace these parts with the slider, spring, and leaf from Orange Alps? Did you keep the leaf from the Orange as a tactile leaf, or did you clip the prongs to make it a click leaf? Did you lube the slider rails and the leaf-side of the slider? If so, what lube did you use? Thanks!Well I did a complete swap, de-soldered all of the Blacks and soldered in Oranges from an AEK. While the difference in keyfeel isn't particularly noticeable, I prefer long switch plates on principal. I kept the Oranges as tactile switches, I wanted a quieter keyboard for the office and so far it's working out well (not a fan of dampened switches). I didn't re-lube the switches but if I was going to, I would probably use the DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant I have experimented with in the past; when used on clean switches it does seem to work well.
Am I not removing the solder properly or is it just really diffiult to remove Matias from the V80's plate? I have no issues with MX switches :/How are you trying to remove them? You have to remove all the switches from an Alps plate and push them up from the bottom, you can't remove them incrementally like an MX switch.
Am I not removing the solder properly or is it just really diffiult to remove Matias from the V80's plate? I have no issues with MX switches :/Ooh, be careful with this :eek: I also find the solder KBP uses is quite difficult to remove as well with my V60. I didn't know better and ripped the switches out along with through holes. See pic. Take it slowly and don't force them, or else you end up with this.
Yeah. Ruined my v60 pcb by ripping out about 10 through holes. Lead free solder ****ing sucks manAm I not removing the solder properly or is it just really diffiult to remove Matias from the V80's plate? I have no issues with MX switches :/Ooh, be careful with this :eek: I also find the solder KBP uses is quite difficult to remove as well with my V60. I didn't know better and ripped the switches out along with through holes. See pic. Take it slowly and don't force them, or else you end up with this.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VvdDNtL.jpg)
Yea....what did you end up doing? Buying another whole board?Yeah. Ruined my v60 pcb by ripping out about 10 through holes. Lead free solder ****ing sucks manAm I not removing the solder properly or is it just really diffiult to remove Matias from the V80's plate? I have no issues with MX switches :/Ooh, be careful with this :eek: I also find the solder KBP uses is quite difficult to remove as well with my V60. I didn't know better and ripped the switches out along with through holes. See pic. Take it slowly and don't force them, or else you end up with this.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VvdDNtL.jpg)
Havent touched it. sitting in a box currently. will try to grt it working sometime I guessYea....what did you end up doing? Buying another whole board?Yeah. Ruined my v60 pcb by ripping out about 10 through holes. Lead free solder ****ing sucks manAm I not removing the solder properly or is it just really diffiult to remove Matias from the V80's plate? I have no issues with MX switches :/Ooh, be careful with this :eek: I also find the solder KBP uses is quite difficult to remove as well with my V60. I didn't know better and ripped the switches out along with through holes. See pic. Take it slowly and don't force them, or else you end up with this.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VvdDNtL.jpg)
I did make it semi functional, no win keys or backlight!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OOqL6lo.jpg)
At least it's sitting pretty right now...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZvSztGN.jpg)
Havent touched it. sitting in a box currently. will try to grt it working sometime I guess
Haha pretty sure I ruined it. Oh well.Pics?
When I get home I can but I had to tear the switch out with some force so I'm just assuming its broke.
Dual sided from what I can see.When I get home I can but I had to tear the switch out with some force so I'm just assuming its broke.
Yeeeah, tripped the via right out. It's something that can wreck a keyboard. If you find the proper trances, you can reconnect the pins properly, but it might be an arduous task. I've heard the V60 PCB is multilayered. Is it just dual-sided or multi? Multi would be bad.
Its alot worse than I remembered it. I might just wait for hasu to drop the next round of alps64s. I should atleast try to fix it though.Wait, the green ones are the only ones that work? Jesus thats actually a lot worse than mine lol.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lT4MBSw.png)
That layout is very similar to what I would want but with a few changes like using those extra key's to the right of enter as cut, copy and paste etc.Thats's funny, even my IBM unpacking slip mentions them in the box, does yours? I've seen a video of the beeper, super loud :p Thank god there's a volume knob. Excited to use mine.
I double checked my slip....nope. It just shows the cap puller and the extra feet for the bottom as the stuff that comes besides the keyboard. Guess there is a difference between the Japanese and Chinese versions, hah!How did you go about converting your board with your own layout? Have a layout in mind myself, similar to Chryos's with a few tweaks.
alps102key.c is the keymap it uses, there's a visual diagram commented out in that file that looks like the Pingmaster's layout, just follow that as reference and edit the matrix below it changing the keys as you see fit...should be pretty straight forward. Here's what mine looks like:MoreCode: [Select]KEYMAP_ALPS102(
ESC, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 0, MINS,EQL, BSPC,BSPC,BSPC, INS,HOME,PGUP, NLCK, PSLS, PAST, PMNS, \
TAB, Q, W, E, R, T, Y, U, I, O, P, LBRC,RBRC,BSPC, NO, DEL, END, PGDN, 7, 8, 9, PPLS, \
CAPS,A, S, D, F, G, H, J, K, L, SCLN,QUOT,GRV, ENT, NO, NO, NO, NO, 4, 5, 6, PPLS, \
LSFT,Z, X, C, V, B, N, M, COMM,DOT, SLSH,RSFT,RSFT, NO, NO, UP, NO, 1, 2, 3, PENT, \
LCTL, LGUI,LALT, SPC, RALT,RGUI, FN0, LEFT,DOWN,RGHT, 0, 0, DOT, PENT \
),
@Mattr567: What are the caps and switches on your "sitting pretty" board?SKCL greens with japanese IBM multistation sphericals. Im so jelly
@Mattr567: What are the caps and switches on your "sitting pretty" board?SKCL greens with japanese IBM multistation sphericals. Im so jelly
I am very glad that I purchased an ultrasonic cleaner. It does a fantastic job on keycaps -- better cleaning in far less time than doing it manually. I got the iSonic P4820-WPB for $88.99 on Amazon Prime. Well worth the price.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WMElyKM.jpg)
It is finally done. The closest to endgame I think Ill ever get honestly. Ill also be nominating myself for KOTM, so if you like it, feel free to +1 :)) :D
After all the 5140s and other mobile computers we've recycled over keycaps, you're getting torn up over a typewriter? :P
rattle can :))Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WMElyKM.jpg)
It is finally done. The closest to endgame I think Ill ever get honestly. Ill also be nominating myself for KOTM, so if you like it, feel free to +1 :)) :D
Desire to know more about case painting technique intensifies.
Oooh, those are quite sharp.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V2huiut.jpg)
Also, Mattr, I noticed you have the Chinese set while I have the Japanese one. Neat. :)
That thing is pretty much perfect for an ANSI 60% SKCC project, which honestly... Would be SICK.Has anyone ever made a custom SKCC board before? I don't want to kill a Pingmaster per say... but they're so cheap so it is kind of the ideal time to jump in and tear one apart for keyboard science.
I'll definitely +1 you if I remember to, good luck!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WMElyKM.jpg)
It is finally done. The closest to endgame I think Ill ever get honestly. Ill also be nominating myself for KOTM, so if you like it, feel free to +1 :)) :D
kill a PingmasterFor gods sake please dont kill one of the NIB ones! Find a dirty one in ****ty condition to kill. NIB boards from that era are so rare, it makes me wonder why there are so many pingmasters.
I have a hard time valuing them as much as you do, especially considering how readily available they are. New switches for a new project is just too appealing of an idea :pkill a PingmasterFor gods sake please dont kill one of the NIB ones! Find a dirty one in ****ty condition to kill. NIB boards from that era are so rare, it makes me wonder why there are so many pingmasters.
I have a hunch that once they are gone, theyre gone. How many used pingmasters have you seen? I think that once the lots on ebay are depleted, the value will increase.I have a hard time valuing them as much as you do, especially considering how readily available they are. New switches for a new project is just too appealing of an idea :pkill a PingmasterFor gods sake please dont kill one of the NIB ones! Find a dirty one in ****ty condition to kill. NIB boards from that era are so rare, it makes me wonder why there are so many pingmasters.
That is super neat! The retrobrighted caps look good. I should do mine sometime. I like that the Chinese ones have blue alpha's.@Mattr567: What are the caps and switches on your "sitting pretty" board?SKCL greens with japanese IBM multistation sphericals. Im so jelly
I just retrobrighted my set.
I really should invest in an ultrasonic cleaner though.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V2huiut.jpg)
Also, Mattr, I noticed you have the Chinese set while I have the Japanese one. Neat. :)
Yea the caps are really cool. Those boards almost never come up on ebay. Taobao is where its at for that kind of stuff. Also E3E if you get that ultra cleaner and have good results I think it would be cool to ship you all my Taobao switches and you can clean them for me. I would pay for everything.I am very glad that I purchased an ultrasonic cleaner. It does a fantastic job on keycaps -- better cleaning in far less time than doing it manually. I got the iSonic P4820-WPB for $88.99 on Amazon Prime. Well worth the price.
I'll keep this model number in mind and probably pick one up ASAP.
:D
By the way, keep the model number IBM 5556 for the Multistation keyboards. Also look out for IBM 5550, as that's the series of systems they were used on.
As for SKCC caps? I know there's a typewriter with an ANSI set, but the right mods are slightly off on the Pingmaster. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231499624453?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Near perfect set of ANSI caps for any SKCC build/board that can support it. Would be a shame to dismantle a working typewriter for them though.
Here is how my Taobao stuff came.
Here is how my Taobao stuff came.
Any clue as to what that straight-ANSI blue Alps one was in its real life?
Also E3E if you get that ultra cleaner and have good results I think it would be cool to ship you all my Taobao switches and you can clean them for me. I would pay for everything.
Pretty sure it was a Model M clone.
Pretty sure it was a Model M clone.
It would be awesome if that meant that it could be re-habbed and stuck in a Model M case!
Yea those Model M clone caps are weird, wish they were thicker.
So for the ultrasonic cleaner I would send about 130 SKCL Greens, 120 SKCM Blues, those Model M clone caps and those Futaba caps. Nice opportunity. All the switches are already dissembled. I'll send a complete SKCL Green so you can see for yourself how rough it is even with my efforts and a cleaned and lubed SKCM Blue to my best ability for the same reason. Also to get a baseline. The Blue's click well but are rough in general, can't pinpoint it. The tops are the clear issue for the Greens. Don't need to clean the Green sliders since that would only be hurting them since there perfect and would only remove lube. The Blue's need the full treatment.
I would put all of them back together myself since that really isn't your problem. I would think it would be a good idea to do a few tests after though to make sure it worked etc.
when the tops are shot, there's not much you can do to help them.
Clarification of terminology request: is "Quiet Click" the name for their tactile (non-clicky) switch? And how does it differ from the "Quiet Pro" switch?Quiet clicks are dampened tactile switches, think SKCM Ivory dampened like is in the AEKII except not quite as good.
Quiet clicks are dampened tactile switches, think SKCM Ivory dampened like is in the AEKII except not quite as good.
Yes, nice keycaps for Alps-mount switches are not plentiful.
I am definitely not a fan of DSA profile. Functionally, I find it difficult to type on a flat profile like DSA. And aesthetically, I do not like the looks of a flat profile. I like the appearance of a sculpted profile. OEM or DCS would be okay, but SA looks majestic to me.
I agree whole-heartedly that SA looks majestic. Unfortunately, SP does not make SA keycaps with the Alps mount.This is a major source of disappointment for me, I like SA but I don't like MX-mount switches enough to want to build a larger board with them. Hoping that Zealiostotles and/or MX Dark Blues live up to the hype so I'll want to build an RS96/ZZ96/Lightsaver with them... but even then I'd probably just stick DCS keycaps on said board. So, I'll guess just stick to wishing for Alps-mount SA keycaps...
damnit are we going to compete for a 96 too? I was gonna put my zealiostotles in a lightsaver :)) Great minds think alike I guess.I agree whole-heartedly that SA looks majestic. Unfortunately, SP does not make SA keycaps with the Alps mount.This is a major source of disappointment for me, I like SA but I don't like MX-mount switches enough to want to build a larger board with them. Hoping that Zealiostotles and/or MX Dark Blues live up to the hype so I'll want to build an RS96/ZZ96/Lightsaver with them... but even then I'd probably just stick DCS keycaps on said board. So, I'll guess just stick to wishing for Alps-mount SA keycaps...
Remind me... what else have we competed on? But, yes, great minds think alike!damnit are we going to compete for a 96 too? I was gonna put my zealiostotles in a lightsaver :)) Great minds think alike I guess.I agree whole-heartedly that SA looks majestic. Unfortunately, SP does not make SA keycaps with the Alps mount.This is a major source of disappointment for me, I like SA but I don't like MX-mount switches enough to want to build a larger board with them. Hoping that Zealiostotles and/or MX Dark Blues live up to the hype so I'll want to build an RS96/ZZ96/Lightsaver with them... but even then I'd probably just stick DCS keycaps on said board. So, I'll guess just stick to wishing for Alps-mount SA keycaps...
Ill be buying some zealios soon, and once I have the money saved, Ill buy a lightsaver or lightsaver v2 to put them in if I like em enough.Ah, very cool! I'm thinking about putting them in a ZZ96/RS96 if I like them enough - aka basically the same thing!
Remind me... what else have we competed on? But, yes, great minds think alike!damnit are we going to compete for a 96 too? I was gonna put my zealiostotles in a lightsaver :)) Great minds think alike I guess.I agree whole-heartedly that SA looks majestic. Unfortunately, SP does not make SA keycaps with the Alps mount.This is a major source of disappointment for me, I like SA but I don't like MX-mount switches enough to want to build a larger board with them. Hoping that Zealiostotles and/or MX Dark Blues live up to the hype so I'll want to build an RS96/ZZ96/Lightsaver with them... but even then I'd probably just stick DCS keycaps on said board. So, I'll guess just stick to wishing for Alps-mount SA keycaps...
I remember bidding against someone on here on a zenith 163 with SKCL yellows, was that you?No, I bought mine in person from someone nearby me. If I remember correctly you were bidding against emdude or blaise170.
Aha! you have a much better memory than me. Well anyway, you can have first dibs on any lightsaver that comes up here, I have enough boards for a lifetime!I remember bidding against someone on here on a zenith 163 with SKCL yellows, was that you?No, I bought mine in person from someone nearby me. If I remember correctly you were bidding against emdude or blaise170.
Lastly, @Mike I am not sure if it helps, but SP has a gray 6u spacebar in their webshop (http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dcs-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/), I think it is the same color as Alpine Winter.eh, Its fine how it is for now. I may just order another set of matias blanks and use those
Yes, nice keycaps for Alps-mount switches are not plentiful.You've got a pristine 2001 and you're scrapping it? What did that poor old board ever do wrong? D:
I am definitely not a fan of DSA profile. Functionally, I find it difficult to type on a flat profile like DSA. And aesthetically, I do not like the looks of a flat profile. I like the appearance of a sculpted profile. OEM or DCS would be okay, but SA looks majestic to me.
Today I received two keyboards. One is a Leading Edge DC-3014 with blue Alps. The board is in excellent condition and all the keys work. The other is a Focus 2001 with white Alps -- it appears to be in pristine condition, but it was functionally DOA. I will probably scrap the Focus and salvage the caps and switches.
Aha! you have a much better memory than me. Well anyway, you can have first dibs on any lightsaver that comes up here, I have enough boards for a lifetime!Well first I have to make up my mind whether or not I like them... but thanks!
Zealiostotles are silly expensive, maybe find an 1800 with vintage cherry to put the artistole stems in? Just don't be like me and spend more money on silly GMK mods than the actual board...It depends on how you buy them, I spent less than $40 for 120 Zealiostotles :p
Also, those DSA Lightcycle caps go up for pre-order this weekend if anyone is interested.
Zealiostotles are silly expensive, maybe find an 1800 with vintage cherry to put the artistole stems in? Just don't be like me and spend more money on silly GMK mods than the actual board...It depends on how you buy them, I spent less than $40 for 120 Zealiostotles :p
Also, those DSA Lightcycle caps go up for pre-order this weekend if anyone is interested.
I'm building a whole board to accommodate them, so I'm definitely interested, haha. Where are they going up again, Massdrop right?
How did you get them that cheap? Even if you source the aristotles from TaoBao, Zealios are still $.75 each.It's just the Gateron RGB tops that make Zealiostotles Zealiostotles and I already have gold springs... so I just bought Gateron Blues. They should be the same as Zealios switch tops. See this link (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/4edyki/aristotles_gateron_the_clickiest_switch_ever/d1zinem).
As far as the LightCycle caps, the set that only fit The Van keyboard ran on Massdrop, but the full set should be on evang's webstore.
He also said that inserts for jailhouse blues will be manufactured by the end of the year, I may check those out.
Ive heard that theyre different and someone experienced binding with gateron tops. Not sure though. I got 55g gold springs for free from badwrench :DHow did you get them that cheap? Even if you source the aristotles from TaoBao, Zealios are still $.75 each.It's just the Gateron RGB tops that make Zealiostotles Zealiostotles and I already have gold springs... so I just bought Gateron Blues. They should be the same as Zealios switch tops.
As far as the LightCycle caps, the set that only fit The Van keyboard ran on Massdrop, but the full set should be on evang's webstore.
He also said that inserts for jailhouse blues will be manufactured by the end of the year, I may check those out.
Ive heard that theyre different and someone experienced binding with gateron tops. Not sure though. I got 55g gold springs for free from badwrench :DI think that's only with the Milky tops, the RGB tops are the same ones that Zeal uses. Noice grab on the free springs, though.
If you have an extra gateron rgb could you send me one? Romevi sent me a zealio to try, I want to compare them and make sure.Ive heard that theyre different and someone experienced binding with gateron tops. Not sure though. I got 55g gold springs for free from badwrench :DI think that's only with the Milky tops, the RGB tops are the same ones that Zeal uses. Noice grab on the free springs, though.
If you have an extra gateron rgb could you send me one? Romevi sent me a zealio to try, I want to compare them and make sure.PM'd
I have had a few Packard Bell keyboards and they were pure junk, although I think that a couple of them may have had thin crappy caps that were Alps or MX mount.Well the early ones are great like mine, with an SKCM Blue, ANSI layout and DS caps. The one looks just like mine but may be a later version with SKCM White possibly since the caps are different.
Also I found a Canon AP 500 on clist for $20. Its 1.5hr away, should I go and get it?I would, if you get it I would love to buy the caps from you.
Like this one: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.1255
Also I found a Canon AP 500 on clist for $20. Its 1.5hr away, should I go and get it?
Like this one: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.1255
I am already working on a third/fourth (depending on how you count) project with an AT101[W] board, I don't need another :p
I found something quite cool on Taobao. A Dell AT101 with Double-shot Keycaps and Pine Alps SKCM Black Switches! Here's (http://imgur.com/a/sAE3R) an album of the pictures from the listing, I have heard of these before but now I'm going to own one :p
So much for this:I am already working on a third/fourth (depending on how you count) project with an AT101[W] board, I don't need another :p
It always seems the perfect amount of keyboards is N+1.Oh yes, N+1, haha. Now I just have to sell 3-4 boards to make it N-2.
Never seen one of those variants. The caps should be the same profile and thickness as found on NeXT keyboards and ZX-330 typewriters. Anybody have a name of the profile or manufacturer?
Dell AT101s made in Japan or the USA would definitely be boards I'm interested as I'm really looking for a MINT board as their key caps are really nice.
Indeed, and they can be really fun and interesting to sort out! I didn't even see the distinction between Alps DS caps and Alps PBT caps until I stumbled upon that Japanese AT101 and then realized that there's a trend for those caps on every ANSI board I've seen with Alps Electric doubleshots.
Yeah, Alps Electric seems to have made the caps on the AT101 boards (SGI, Dell, HP, and a few more, I think), the Leading Edge boards, and a whole bunch more.
Did a ton of typing today on the NeXT. Great board. The NIB SKCM Creams and Alps DS caps are a lovely combo.I have been putting off getting/making a USB converter... I am still unsure if I'll actually make use of the NeXT even if I get an adapter so I'm still trying to make up my mind.
I would recommended anyone who has one of these to get a USB converter asap.
It really is a great board. Small on your desk even though it still has a numpad. Plus it's nice to break up the beige ;) Have a file Hyperfuse made for me that is pretty much as close to ANSI as your going to get. Totally usable :)Did a ton of typing today on the NeXT. Great board. The NIB SKCM Creams and Alps DS caps are a lovely combo.I have been putting off getting/making a USB converter... I am still unsure if I'll actually make use of the NeXT even if I get an adapter so I'm still trying to make up my mind.
I would recommended anyone who has one of these to get a USB converter asap.
@ruiqimao: Nice board! Where did you get the plate (or how did you make it)? Where did you get the red caps -- are they dyed caps from the AEK? What layout have you programmed? Is it HHKB using the lower right-hand Ctrl as Fn? A board like this is on my project list!
<3alien
^-^
Ive been thinking about adding a skcl lock for the Fn key next to rshift, I cant get TMK's toggle functionality to work correctly. Other than that I really love this alps64. When I first built it I dindt want ot use it because the layout was so alien to me and I didnt have a proper spacebar. But now, I have no excuses :D
I was talking about my alps64, which is programmed with tmk. No modifications are needed to incorporate a SKCL Lock switch, It just latches down and repeats the key. I just wanted to use it to toggle fn layers. As for disassembling switchplates, if you get it apart, good luck putting it back together.Ive been thinking about adding a skcl lock for the Fn key next to rshift, I cant get TMK's toggle functionality to work correctly. Other than that I really love this alps64. When I first built it I dindt want ot use it because the layout was so alien to me and I didnt have a proper spacebar. But now, I have no excuses :D
You're talking about using TMK converter right? Is it possible to make a pcb spot that was previously without locking key accept the locking key, just by using tmk or soarer converter (as opposed to controller)?
And unrelated, but how does one detach plastic part of the alps skcm switchplate from the metallic back part? Those two small plastic rivets don't seem to budge.
Haha Let me check real quick,... Nope, were goodJust unpacked my pingmaster, What an experience. Mattr wasnt kidding, its so cool to unbox a NIB product from 25+ years ago.
I always get Mike and Matt confused. you sure you didn't just get a second one :p :thumb:
Just unpacked my pingmaster, What an experience. Mattr wasnt kidding, its so cool to unbox a NIB product from 25+ years ago.Cool man! What do you think of it?
Its a very interesting board, I love the switches. I cant see myself using it as a daily driver becasue of the strange layout though. Still, thats what I said about The model F XT and I used that for a few months happily. We'll see once I get a converter built, I have another teensy coming across on the slow boat from china.Just unpacked my pingmaster, What an experience. Mattr wasnt kidding, its so cool to unbox a NIB product from 25+ years ago.Cool man! What do you think of it?
Doubleshot ABSIts a very interesting board, I love the switches. I cant see myself using it as a daily driver becasue of the strange layout though. Still, thats what I said about The model F XT and I used that for a few months happily. We'll see once I get a converter built, I have another teensy coming across on the slow boat from china.Just unpacked my pingmaster, What an experience. Mattr wasnt kidding, its so cool to unbox a NIB product from 25+ years ago.Cool man! What do you think of it?
what material are the caps?
Lol the F XT is wayy worse of a layout.Its a very interesting board, I love the switches. I cant see myself using it as a daily driver becasue of the strange layout though. Still, thats what I said about The model F XT and I used that for a few months happily. We'll see once I get a converter built, I have another teensy coming across on the slow boat from china.Just unpacked my pingmaster, What an experience. Mattr wasnt kidding, its so cool to unbox a NIB product from 25+ years ago.Cool man! What do you think of it?
Wasnt too bad for me, I got used to it very quickly.Lol the F XT is wayy worse of a layout.Its a very interesting board, I love the switches. I cant see myself using it as a daily driver becasue of the strange layout though. Still, thats what I said about The model F XT and I used that for a few months happily. We'll see once I get a converter built, I have another teensy coming across on the slow boat from china.Just unpacked my pingmaster, What an experience. Mattr wasnt kidding, its so cool to unbox a NIB product from 25+ years ago.Cool man! What do you think of it?
Yes, nice keycaps for Alps-mount switches
Yes, nice keycaps for Alps-mount switches
This is true but TaiHao makes a few doubleshot sets
I'd say it was Dell's, or rather Alps' "fault" here with that stepped caps lock key, as there were already some vintage boards with non-stepped caps lock key.
Case in point - I have to make a choice to either mod the Omnikey 101 plate/PCB further or mod a granite caps lock keycap. There's never enough time for me to get to it, though.
In your guys' opinion, are the Cream Dampened ALPS that come with AEK II's significantly better or worse than Orange ALPS?I didn't spend a whole lot of time typing on them but, from my limited experience, they're just different. The dampening really changes the way they feel and some people prefer it. The tactile plate in Cream Damped switches is also rather different than the ones found in Orange ALPS (possibly due to inferior materials) and, consequently, the tactility is not as sharp. Finally, Cream Damped switches are heavier than Orange ALPS.
In your guys' opinion, are the Cream Dampened ALPS that come with AEK II's significantly better or worse than Orange ALPS?Orange is better imho, cream damped's tactility feels rough to me, not sure why. half dampened linear modded creams are dank though.
In your guys' opinion, are the Cream Dampened ALPS that come with AEK II's significantly better or worse than Orange ALPS?Significantly worse. Orange Alps are easily among the best tactile switches ever made. Cream damped isn't bad, but orange is just amazing (if you manage to find some in excellent condition).
Speaking of the best tactile alps ever made, your little care package of switches is going out today! prepare to experience SKCM creams!In your guys' opinion, are the Cream Dampened ALPS that come with AEK II's significantly better or worse than Orange ALPS?Significantly worse. Orange Alps are easily among the best tactile switches ever made. Cream damped isn't bad, but orange is just amazing (if you manage to find some in excellent condition).
Yeah, I was thinking about that too, but two things are holding me back:
- I just got the plate powder coated, and making the cut would obviously either mean another round of sanding and painting, or doing a touch up
- following E3E's advice, I don't want to risk drilling the PCB that old, especially with traces nearby
I plan to convert my Pingmaster in the not-too-distant future. Suggestions welcome on where to source keycaps for the zones that currently have relegendable keys. For example, I am thinking of moving the num pad to the far right and putting the nav island in the middle section that is currently set up for a num pad.Exactly what I did with mine. why do you need keycaps? If you touch type does it really matter if youre hitting a relegendable?
:DSpeaking of the best tactile alps ever made, your little care package of switches is going out today! prepare to experience SKCM creams!In your guys' opinion, are the Cream Dampened ALPS that come with AEK II's significantly better or worse than Orange ALPS?Significantly worse. Orange Alps are easily among the best tactile switches ever made. Cream damped isn't bad, but orange is just amazing (if you manage to find some in excellent condition).
Very curious to see what you opinion is on them. To me SKCM Cream is miles ahead of Orange imho. More snappy and with a sharper tactile bump.:DSpeaking of the best tactile alps ever made, your little care package of switches is going out today! prepare to experience SKCM creams!In your guys' opinion, are the Cream Dampened ALPS that come with AEK II's significantly better or worse than Orange ALPS?Significantly worse. Orange Alps are easily among the best tactile switches ever made. Cream damped isn't bad, but orange is just amazing (if you manage to find some in excellent condition).
Very curious to see what you opinion is on them. To me SKCM Cream is miles ahead of Orange imho. More snappy and with a sharper tactile bump.
Favourites;
Clicky: SKCM Blue
Tactile: SKCM Cream
Linear SKCL Green
Really the only switch I haven't tried is SKCL Brown and Gray. Gray is pretty much the same as SKCL Cream (which I have) but am curious myself to see how SKCL Brown is.
God, sounds like you are dying for a Xerox USB conversion. Better get Hasu on the case.Very curious to see what you opinion is on them. To me SKCM Cream is miles ahead of Orange imho. More snappy and with a sharper tactile bump.
Favourites;
Clicky: SKCM Blue
Tactile: SKCM Cream
Linear SKCL Green
Really the only switch I haven't tried is SKCL Brown and Gray. Gray is pretty much the same as SKCL Cream (which I have) but am curious myself to see how SKCL Brown is.
SKCM Creams are definitely my favorite standard tactile Alps switch. My line-up is like this:
Clicky: SKCM Blue
Tactile: SKCM Cream and SKCM Green
Linear: SKCL Green and SKCL Brown
SKCL Brown has a sort of cushion to it that's really amazing to me. It might just be the Cherry profile FAME caps on my NCR that make them feel that much better, but as a result, they are a favorite.
Typing on SKCL Greens in my timeless Hammer Alps 60% and it never gets old. Light, crisp, and smooth. Taking this board out and seeing the backlighting always gets me. I love it.
About SKCL Cream: I feel like they are similar to SKCL Brown, but I've still been too lazy to desolder my Bondwell 8T Pro laptop to get them loose to try in one of my boards, so I don't have the best impression of them.
SKCM Green, in my experience with them, feel best in the Xerox boards they come in. They also feel terrible with any binding. Putting salmon tops on the 6085's switches helped immensely on that one.
SKCM Brown and Green felt terrible in my FMJ custom 60% with a carbon fiber plate. Just way too stiff and the sound in that case is still something that turns me off. I don't take out the NIB 6085 with browns often, but they do feel very slick when I toy with the board.
God, sounds like you are dying for a Xerox USB conversion. Better get Hasu on the case.
My thought was worst case i'll just bodge the traces with wires. That's probably what it's going to come to anyway. It's not like this board cost me more than 30 bucks anyway, so i don't mind either way.
Quick question, can matias clicky and quiet click be modded to be linears? I was thinking about getting Matias Linears and Sprit's springs, but if I can just take out the leafs I could just use a 60g linear :)Yes, but beware that Matias and other simplified Alps are annoying as hell to put back together. The contacts are like paper and if you don't put the top on just right you'll squish it up.
Just changing the top housing, I agree. But i wonder if using SKCL green / SKCM white combo would be closer to blue alps.Its not quite like blue alps, but its a really different feel. light, pingy, clicky, and super smooth. sounds bassier than white alps too, could be the slider material or the switchplate.
My SKCM neon green Wang doesn't bind at all afaik. Some of your Xeroxes are really clean though iirc, right?Very curious to see what you opinion is on them. To me SKCM Cream is miles ahead of Orange imho. More snappy and with a sharper tactile bump.
Favourites;
Clicky: SKCM Blue
Tactile: SKCM Cream
Linear SKCL Green
Really the only switch I haven't tried is SKCL Brown and Gray. Gray is pretty much the same as SKCL Cream (which I have) but am curious myself to see how SKCL Brown is.
SKCM Creams are definitely my favorite standard tactile Alps switch. My line-up is like this:
Clicky: SKCM Blue
Tactile: SKCM Cream and SKCM Green
Linear: SKCL Green and SKCL Brown
SKCL Brown has a sort of cushion to it that's really amazing to me. It might just be the Cherry profile FAME caps on my NCR that make them feel that much better, but as a result, they are a favorite.
Typing on SKCL Greens in my timeless Hammer Alps 60% and it never gets old. Light, crisp, and smooth. Taking this board out and seeing the backlighting always gets me. I love it.
About SKCL Cream: I feel like they are similar to SKCL Brown, but I've still been too lazy to desolder my Bondwell 8T Pro laptop to get them loose to try in one of my boards, so I don't have the best impression of them.
SKCM Green, in my experience with them, feel best in the Xerox boards they come in. They also feel terrible with any binding. Putting salmon tops on the 6085's switches helped immensely on that one.
SKCM Brown and Green felt terrible in my FMJ custom 60% with a carbon fiber plate. Just way too stiff and the sound in that case is still something that turns me off. I don't take out the NIB 6085 with browns often, but they do feel very slick when I toy with the board.
My SKCM neon green Wang doesn't bind at all afaik. Some of your Xeroxes are really clean though iirc, right?
Would you like your Pingmaster as much if all the keys were relegendable? For me, there are two main reasons for "real" keycaps: aesthetics and feel. Relegendables fail on both counts. (Plus sometimes I need to sneak a peak at the legend, just to be sure!).I plan to convert my Pingmaster in the not-too-distant future. Suggestions welcome on where to source keycaps for the zones that currently have relegendable keys. For example, I am thinking of moving the num pad to the far right and putting the nav island in the middle section that is currently set up for a num pad.Exactly what I did with mine. why do you need keycaps? If you touch type does it really matter if youre hitting a relegendable?
Very true, But cruciform alps mount caps with the correct size, profile and legends are probably impossible to find. The pingmaster can be converted to an hhkb layout easily, So youll be right at home there. If correct caps do surface, you know all of us pingmaster owners will want them. but for now it looks like we'll just have to rely on relegendables.Would you like your Pingmaster as much if all the keys were relegendable? For me, there are two main reasons for "real" keycaps: aesthetics and feel. Relegendables fail on both counts. (Plus sometimes I need to sneak a peak at the legend, just to be sure!).I plan to convert my Pingmaster in the not-too-distant future. Suggestions welcome on where to source keycaps for the zones that currently have relegendable keys. For example, I am thinking of moving the num pad to the far right and putting the nav island in the middle section that is currently set up for a num pad.Exactly what I did with mine. why do you need keycaps? If you touch type does it really matter if youre hitting a relegendable?
Regarding the "favorite Alps switch" subthread, mine is currently white Alps. This choice is highly influenced by the keyboard that houses the switch. I am typing now on a Northgate Omnikey 101 with white Alps, which thus far gives me the best typing experience over my other keyboards with various flavors (colors) of Alps switches. This choice is of course subject to change after I finish refurbishing the Alps-switch keyboards that are waiting in the wings.To be fair, any alps switch is only as good as the chasis it is mounted in. I would personally rather use white alps mounted in an Omnikey rather than blue alps mounted in a LE DC-2014. I feel that any SKCL/M alps switch (with the possible exception of black) will feel better when mounted in a high quality metal backed board than a lesser built board. Kindof like IBM Model M BS feels better than IBM Model M2 BS.
I'm certainly going to give it a shot, I'm no hasu but my background is in electrical engineering and embedded programming :thumb:God, sounds like you are dying for a Xerox USB conversion. Better get Hasu on the case.Oh yes, I'd use one as a daily driver in rotation for sure, dude. Wingpad mentioned being able to help me out. I've talked to him a little bit about it. WE SHALL SEE. It'd be a dream though.
Yeah, they're quite cool. I'd consider building a proper board out of them at some point.Just changing the top housing, I agree. But i wonder if using SKCL green / SKCM white combo would be closer to blue alps.Its not quite like blue alps, but its a really different feel. light, pingy, clicky, and super smooth. sounds bassier than white alps too, could be the slider material or the switchplate.
Have you tried glass fiber and/or carbon fiber?I'm quite loathe to try them because of E3E's experience with them:
The reason why I wasn't a fan of the SKCM Greens, SKCM Browns, and SKCM Ambers in the FMJ w/ carbon fiber plate is because of the rigid plate intensifying the tactile feedback to an annoying degree, especially on the bottom out. It just felt so harsh when bottoming out on those switches.
This has been my experience with SKCM brown switches in a 60% custom with a stainless steel plate. The switches feel very stiff and the bottoming out is harsh. These switches feel very different in their native habitat of an IBM 5140 keyboard, which has a lot of flexibility. Nevertheless, brown Alps offer wonderful tactility, and I still find it fun to type on the 60% board with these switches.Hmm... do we know what affords the IBM5140 keyboard such great flexibility? Is it simply a different/thinner plate material? I found it quite fun to type on them in their "native habitat" and I'm hoping to replicate that as closely as possible.
This is a great start!I spent a bunch of time this weekend making a number of different franken-alps switches by mixing in parts from newer matias switches (right now only quiet clicks, but I'm tempted to get some clicky switches and mess with those too).
Using the terminology that Platy originated I'm calling the process of mixing in matias qc components as "smoking" (due to the gray color of the slider).
I used Orange, Salmon and Damped Cream switches in two different configurations:Additionally I make what I'll refer to as the "complicated quiet click" which swaps the entire guts of a quiet click into a damped cream saving only the complicated switchplate.
- Partial Smoke - Replace the tactile leaf with a quiet click tactile leaf.
- Full Smoke - Replace the tactile leaf and spring with the quiet click tactile leaf and spring
Overall I was actually really impressed with the results, with my three favorites being: Partially Smoked Orange, Fully Smoked Salmon, and the Complicated Quiet Click.
Partially Smoked Orange - The slightly lighter spring along with the older model switchplate in the oranges made for a very nice compliment to the newer and crisper tactile leaf from the quiet click.
Fully Smoked Salmon - This was a super crisp and slightly aggressive switch. The combination of later model complicated switchplate, the quiet click's tactile leaf and the undamped slider makes for a super crisp and crunchy feel. I think in the long term it would actually be easier (and cheaper) to use SKCM Whites as the donor. I'll have to look into it.
Complicated Quiet Click - This and the fully smoked cream were pretty similar, but I prefer the dampeners on the quiet clicks (could be age related). The end result is a slightly less wobbly (the switchplate on a qc has only one touch point on the slider) and more consistent feeling quiet click.
I'm going to build my first Alps Party board with Complicated Quiet Clicks and see how I like it vs. my v60 with quiet clicks.
Action pic!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EAAaViw.jpg)
I love your experimentation here. I hate disassembling Alps because I insist on using toothpicks because I do not want to mar the housings, and I don't have any of the larger cocktail sticks that Chyros recommends. I should consider whittling down some chopsticks or something.
Fully smoked salmon sounds both delicious and pretty awesome as do the complicated quiet clicks.
Because blue Alps seem to be almost universally praised, it would be particularly useful to list FrankenAlps combinations that could result in "ghetto blues" that are close to SKCM blues in sound and feel.In my opinion, the "closest" ghetto blues are click-modded Oranges. Whether or not you simply transfer in the Whites' click plates or bend over the tabs from the tactile plates, they generally yield closer results than click-modded Greens since Greens are an entirely different (yet still appealing) pingy beast, haha. I think the biggest problem is that we still don't know what makes Blues Blues, it's really hard to try and approximate them since they have such a unique key feel. In all of my experiments with "ghetto" Blues, I still can't replicate that "airy" feeling that Blues have.
My best boards at present have white Alps, which I actually like very much, but I would be interested in knowing what the possibilities are for transforming white Alps into ghetto blues.
@Wingpad: So, let me be sure I understand your click-modded orange Alps. Let's suppose I am starting with a recipient board that has white Alps switches. To make click-modded orange, which of the following parts would I swap into the white Alps from a donor Orange Alps board?
+ Orange Slider
+ Click-modded Orange Tactile Leaf OR original Click Leaf from the white Alps
+ Orange Spring? OR white Spring?
+ Orange Top Housing? OR original White Top Housing?
Or, are you saying that the recipient board would be an Orange Alps board?
@Chyros: The video you are planning sounds like a great contribution. As long as you are going to all that trouble, would you also consider making a table like I have described to summarize the combinations and results?
This has been my experience with SKCM brown switches in a 60% custom with a stainless steel plate. The switches feel very stiff and the bottoming out is harsh. These switches feel very different in their native habitat of an IBM 5140 keyboard, which has a lot of flexibility. Nevertheless, brown Alps offer wonderful tactility, and I still find it fun to type on the 60% board with these switches.Hmm... do we know what affords the IBM5140 keyboard such great flexibility? Is it simply a different/thinner plate material? I found it quite fun to type on them in their "native habitat" and I'm hoping to replicate that as closely as possible.
@Wingpad: So, let me be sure I understand your click-modded orange Alps. Let's suppose I am starting with a recipient board that has white Alps switches. To make click-modded orange, which of the following parts would I swap into the white Alps from a donor Orange Alps board?Of course! :) I hope to give an as thorough as possible comparison of all combinations. But I don't have all Alps boards yet, and no Matias ones, so this won't happen anytime soon.
+ Orange Slider
+ Click-modded Orange Tactile Leaf OR original Click Leaf from the white Alps
+ Orange Spring? OR white Spring?
+ Orange Top Housing? OR original White Top Housing?
Or, are you saying that the recipient board would be an Orange Alps board?
@Chyros: The video you are planning sounds like a great contribution. As long as you are going to all that trouble, would you also consider making a table like I have described to summarize the combinations and results?
My big wang arrived today
725-3770us
My big wang arrived today
That is surely awesome. What model number is that?
My big wang arrived today :DNice, they're excellent boards :) . Very well built, excellent keycaps and very nice switches. Good catch! :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/T1foVdj.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/K4copRf.jpg)
This board looks and feels absolutely new. No dust on the plate, no dirt on the caps, no shine on the spacebar, and even no scratches on the feet!
@E3E: I I have a keyboard with white Alps and a layout and chassis that I like. I also have some donor orange Alps and blue Alps. If possible, I would prefer not to desolder and resolder switches. Would I gain anything by swapping parts from blue and/or orange Alps into the white Alps switches, or should I leave well enough alone and use the white switches as they are?
Nice looking board.Ebay
Where did you get it from?
@E3E: Thanks for the insights about transplanting internals from other switches into white Alps lower housings. I may give this a try with a few switches to see if it seems worthwhile doing the entire keyboard.
Which Wang boards were you referring to? Were these the 725-3770 models but earlier versions that had switches other than black Alps? Apparently, the earliest version of this model had SKCM orange Alps switches.
Nice looking board.
Where did you get it from?
There were several on eBay recently for $99 plus shipping.The seller was accepting very low offers, ohaimark offered 50$ and was accepted, and I offered 60$ and was accepted. Not sure who got the third one.
There were several on eBay recently for $99 plus shipping.The seller was accepting very low offers, ohaimark offered 50$ and was accepted, and I offered 60$ and was accepted. Not sure who got the third one.
Thse skcm salmons feel amazing, possibly because theyre all but brand new. No matter what switches are in them, 60$ is a great deal for a wang.There were several on eBay recently for $99 plus shipping.The seller was accepting very low offers, ohaimark offered 50$ and was accepted, and I offered 60$ and was accepted. Not sure who got the third one.
Well, if anyone got SKCM Orange, then I might be jealous, if not, then I'm good. :P
Thse skcm salmons feel amazing, possibly because theyre all but brand new. No matter what switches are in them, 60$ is a great deal for a wang.There were several on eBay recently for $99 plus shipping.The seller was accepting very low offers, ohaimark offered 50$ and was accepted, and I offered 60$ and was accepted. Not sure who got the third one.
Well, if anyone got SKCM Orange, then I might be jealous, if not, then I'm good. :P
Speaking of AT101s, here's the last one I've got.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/duFKHHC.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/fflDVzv.jpg)
Now donning the dyes caps from my Orion, with its original caps cleaned and in a bag. Pretty much just a placeholder for my key caps. I don't ever use the thing. :P
man... I wish I had that before you made it black T_T
Why do you feel that salmons are so lifeless? I quite like them.
Agreed, it doesnt come close to the keyfeel of the creams in my omnikey, and some of them click on the way up, but I think that gives the board character.Why do you feel that salmons are so lifeless? I quite like them.
Well, compared to oranges, tactile browns, tactile creams, tactile greens... They just don't shape up well in my eyes. Another one I was curious of was pine SKCM Black--if it was any good, but people don't seem to think so if the NeXT boards with blacks are anything to go off of. I thought they'd be pretty good. I've only got the bamboo ones from an AT101W though.
Salmons aren't bad switches, but in contrast to the others I enjoy, they're a little anemic, just in my perspective.
Agreed, it doesnt come close to the keyfeel of the creams in my omnikey, and some of them click on the way up, but I think that gives the board character.
Are the creams damped or undamped? Based on my brief encounters with damped cream Alps, I did not like them at all. However, I sort of like the undamped cream Alps in my NeXT non-ADB keyboard. I have an SGI Granite with damped white Alps -- I will give this another try one of these days.Non damp from the NeXT's. I have SKCM Orange in the SGI.
Thus far in my recent Alps frenzy, my favorite board is a Northgate Omnikey 101 with cleaned and lubed white Alps -- the switches are smooth and crisp, and the board is the essence of solidity.
This weekend, I hope to finish my partial refurbishing of a Leading Edge DC-3014 with blue Alps to see if these switches live up to their reputation. All I will be doing for the moment is painting the case, installing a Soarer's Converter with a flush-mount micro-USB connector, and replacing the keycaps with dye-sub PBT from an SGI Granite. If the switches do not seem up to par, I will consider opening them all, sonicating the removable parts, blowing out the lower housings, possibly cleaning the switchplates with contact cleaner, and lubing the slider rails and click-leaf side of the sliders with Superlube 51010 oil. However, I hope to avoid all this, which might undo the voodoo that is performed on blue Alps at the factory.
I'm putting SCKL Green into the VE.A, what is the recommended plate material for linear switch? My choices are stainless steel, aluminium, and acrylicstainless steel
Hmm, I thought Chryos stated they feel identical to SCKM Brown except for weighting and some small acoustic differences?Why do you feel that salmons are so lifeless? I quite like them.
Well, compared to oranges, tactile browns, tactile creams, tactile greens... They just don't shape up well in my eyes. Another one I was curious of was pine SKCM Black--if it was any good, but people don't seem to think so if the NeXT boards with blacks are anything to go off of. I thought they'd be pretty good. I've only got the bamboo ones from an AT101W though.
Salmons aren't bad switches, but in contrast to the others I enjoy, they're a little anemic, just in my perspective.
Hmm, I thought Chryos stated they feel identical to SCKM Brown except for weighting and some small acoustic differences?Why do you feel that salmons are so lifeless? I quite like them.
Well, compared to oranges, tactile browns, tactile creams, tactile greens... They just don't shape up well in my eyes. Another one I was curious of was pine SKCM Black--if it was any good, but people don't seem to think so if the NeXT boards with blacks are anything to go off of. I thought they'd be pretty good. I've only got the bamboo ones from an AT101W though.
Salmons aren't bad switches, but in contrast to the others I enjoy, they're a little anemic, just in my perspective.
@Mattr567: Why paint a DC-3014?
Uhhhh hey guys, so I know its only going to be a matter of time before you guys find this keyboard as well, but I wish to come to an agreement here. We have had problems with us bidding against each other in the past and I don't want this to happen here.Nope, not the first :p You can have it though, Ill cancel my snipe bid. I was talking to its owner (ohaimark @ deskthority) and he says the switches are nice and clean.
I found a SKCL Amber Tandem Keyboard, was just listed. I'm not normally not a huge spender or make rash decisions but this is an amazing board. Can I have this one? :'( I looked around and I am the first one to find it. Was on my phone and was several pages deep on ebay.
-Matt
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331993612418
Uhhhh hey guys, so I know its only going to be a matter of time before you guys find this keyboard as well, but I wish to come to an agreement here. We have had problems with us bidding against each other in the past and I don't want this to happen here.
I found a SKCL Amber Tandem Keyboard, was just listed. I'm not normally not a huge spender or make rash decisions but this is an amazing board. Can I have this one? :'( I looked around and I am the first one to find it. Was on my phone and was several pages deep on ebay.
-Matt
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331993612418
Looks like bid for it has started. Please don't tell me you bid on it already, Mattr. :P It's such poor taste to bid on something so early in.Nope, not me.
Blue alps???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Starrise-Computer-Company-Click-Key-Keyboard-PC-XT-AT-Original-Box-/182295768598?hash=item2a71acae16:g:ZDMAAOSwLF1X68Kz (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Starrise-Computer-Company-Click-Key-Keyboard-PC-XT-AT-Original-Box-/182295768598?hash=item2a71acae16:g:ZDMAAOSwLF1X68Kz)
I saw the Tandem board on eBay too, was under the impression that only the spacebar was SKCL Amber.Same. It's the spacebar switch for a couple of other keyboards that used SKCL Brown. That same Tandem can also come with SKCL Brown w/ Amber spacebar and Packard Bell KCLEA907L. I'm the one who wrote the wiki page :)
@Mattr567: How difficult is it to desolder the Matias switches in a KBP V60MTS or V80MTS and to solder in Alps swtiches? I recall seeing a post indicating that there was an idiosyncrasy in the way the switches were soldered in these boards that made it difficult to desolder and/or to solder in new switches.The only reason they are difficult to desolder is because they use the abomination many people call lead free solder.
Oooh, that Focus is beautiful.Blue alps???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Starrise-Computer-Company-Click-Key-Keyboard-PC-XT-AT-Original-Box-/182295768598?hash=item2a71acae16:g:ZDMAAOSwLF1X68Kz (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Starrise-Computer-Company-Click-Key-Keyboard-PC-XT-AT-Original-Box-/182295768598?hash=item2a71acae16:g:ZDMAAOSwLF1X68Kz)
There are some different models with the IBM F AT style case and layout that had blue Alps. For instance, the Jameco JE1015 board. I think there's a Computerworld branded clone that's, well, just that. So this could very well have Alps SKCM Blue.
The jameco looks like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QtxF6xA.jpg)
There are some differences, so I dunno. I can't find pics of the computerworld keyboard atm.
Yea, their solder really does suck. I already learned that lesson with my V60. At least it survived in a frankenstein sense.@Mattr567: How difficult is it to desolder the Matias switches in a KBP V60MTS or V80MTS and to solder in Alps switches? I recall seeing a post indicating that there was an idiosyncrasy in the way the switches were soldered in these boards that made it difficult to desolder and/or to solder in new switches.The only reason they are difficult to desolder is because they use the abomination many people call lead free solder.
a solder sucker .... it's much easier to do than braided wire.
Quick question, can matias clicky and quiet click be modded to be linears? I was thinking about getting Matias Linears and Sprit's springs, but if I can just take out the leafs I could just use a 60g linear :)Yes, but beware that Matias and other simplified Alps are annoying as hell to put back together. The contacts are like paper and if you don't put the top on just right you'll squish it up.
Yet another reason I completely destroyed my v60 pcb.Same here. All of that would explain why this happened so often and why I had to hand wire the **** out of it to make it work. If I want to ever make the LED's work I'll have to buy a new V60 and/or PCB. Don't want to touch the thing in fear that it would just fall apart.
We have had problems with us bidding against each other in the past and I don't want this to happen here.
Hypersphere already knows, but in case you're interested, Tai Hao alps keysets are 20 dollars plus shipping on MDwhat kind of spacebar and modifiers does the keyset come with? The olivetti one looks rather nice.
Hypersphere already knows, but in case you're interested, Tai Hao alps keysets are 20 dollars plus shipping on MDwhat kind of spacebar and modifiers does the keyset come with? The olivetti one looks rather nice.
The Tai-Hao Alps sets are for standard US ANSI modern layout keyboards. The spacebar is 6.25x and the bottom-row mods are 1.25x. If you need a 7.00x spacebar and 1.50x bottom-row mods, you can get these from Matias -- they have laser-printed or blank sets in either white or black.
The current offerings on MD are for Olivette, Dolch, or WoB. MK also carries Olivette and Dolch, but the last time I checked, they were out of stock for the Dolch. Clueboard has the WoB, and you can get a TKL set for $15 and the numpad set separately for $5.
The quality is not bad for doubleshot ABS. I wish they would produce some dye-sub PBT Alps sets (as long as they don't spoil them with their awful antibacterial coating).
I really love the Dolch colorway. I've also become enamored of the Dolch colorway enhanced with a splash of color. In particular, a red ESC key and a red RETURN key (I have two boards with this variant of Dolch DSA on them).
Where might one find these two red keys with an Alps mount?
I really love the Dolch colorway. I've also become enamored of the Dolch colorway enhanced with a splash of color. In particular, a red ESC key and a red RETURN key (I have two boards with this variant of Dolch DSA on them).
Where might one find these two red keys with an Alps mount?
I know the Esc keys exist and were sold on a particular website (was it SP who made them?) but I've never heard of a return key being made in red. You could always try and find a PBT set with the font of your choice and dye them red, though Dokyun has also shown that dyeing ABS is perfectly doable.
I really love the Dolch colorway. I've also become enamored of the Dolch colorway enhanced with a splash of color. In particular, a red ESC key and a red RETURN key (I have two boards with this variant of Dolch DSA on them).
Where might one find these two red keys with an Alps mount?
I know the Esc keys exist and were sold on a particular website (was it SP who made them?) but I've never heard of a return key being made in red. You could always try and find a PBT set with the font of your choice and dye them red, though Dokyun has also shown that dyeing ABS is perfectly doable.
SP's ESC keys aren't OEM profile. Their DCS profile isn't as tall as OEM and would look wrong.
A PBT set would be less than ideal because the idea is to match, as closely as possible anyway, the double-shot ABS style of the Tai Hao Dolch kit.
I pretty much figured I was looking for a unicorn.
Yeah, unfortunately this would be for a KBP V60 mini.I thought you only used full-size keyboards (?).
Ultimately this isn't that important because I will be putting LightCycle DSA on it by year's end. But I figured if a double-shot OEM red ESC/RETURN pair was obtainable now, it would make the wait a little less painful.
I thought you only used full-size keyboards (?).
should I put my SKCM greens in the Green VEA or wait for another kit?
should I put my SKCM greens in the Green VEA or wait for another kit?
What caps would you use?
either AEK or Focus/Northgate combo
Yeah, unfortunately this would be for a KBP V60 mini.
Ultimately this isn't that important because I will be putting LightCycle DSA on it by year's end. But I figured if a double-shot OEM red ESC/RETURN pair was obtainable now, it would make the wait a little less painful.
Did a ton of typing today on the NeXT. Great board. The NIB SKCM Creams and Alps DS caps are a lovely combo.I also like my non-ADB NeXT board. Undamped creams are good switches. For me, the drawbacks are the caps and case. Perhaps they look great when brand new, but the caps on mine have highly visible shine and the case easily picks up fingerprints and smudges, which are quite conspicuous and difficult to clean. Functionally, though, this is a nicely designed board. I like the form factor and layout, and I've swapped out the alpha keycaps with dye-sub PBT from an SGI.
I would recommended anyone who has one of these to get a USB converter asap.
If i were looking to remove heavily soldered bolts from an Omnikey 101, what would be my best bet?Heat gun just hot enough to loosen the solder a bit, a screwdriver and some elbow grease. Also you can use a drill and just drill out the bolt, but that is more destructive than the method I described.
Without damaging the already battered and bruised PCB, preferably :P
SKCL Heavy Cream perhaps?
Once more documentation is provided and more discussion on what exactly it is I will be more than happy or make a wiki page. Documenting new switches is wayy more important than individual keyboards.
If i were looking to remove heavily soldered bolts from an Omnikey 101, what would be my best bet?
Without damaging the already battered and bruised PCB, preferably :P
Heat gun just hot enough to loosen the solder a bit, a screwdriver and some elbow grease. Also you can use a drill and just drill out the bolt, but that is more destructive than the method I described.
SKCL Heavy Cream perhaps?
Once more documentation is provided and more discussion on what exactly it is I will be more than happy or make a wiki page. Documenting new switches is wayy more important than individual keyboards.
SKCL Heavy Creams would be my choice as well. However, when putting them alongside SKCM creams damped or undamped, thet are visibly darker. Creams look almost white next to them until you put actual whites alongside as well. I'll try and get a better camera and take some better pics in the next couple of days.
You just wanted an excuse to post that bondwell pic :))
But more seriously, SKCL Salmon, at least to me, implies a normal switch type. SKCL Heavy Salmon would imply the switch is for special use, but then there's an issue of non-existent normal SKCL Salmon. ARGH. To paraphrase, there are only two hard things in keyboard science - wallet invalidation and naming things.
Not a fan of Salmon. SKCL Heavy Pink?So that's the reason the board went off of eBay, eh?
Also ohhaimark just pm'd me on reddit wanting my Lexmark branded 1398601 Model M. He has the rest of the lineup of those quite rare Lexmark branded Model M's (SSK, M15, M13) and is only missing mine.
I smell a deal, rich with Amber ;)
Yea, he ended it even before we made a deal lol.What's the Industrial Model M SSK case for?
So it's a 1:1 trade. My Model M w/ its original case and bolt modded internals for the Tandem. Yes! :D
Now I need to find a Model M carcass for the industrial case.......
No just a regular industrial case. I got it NIB off Unicomp and that is what I have had the internals of the Lexmark M in. So now it needs a new resident.Yea, he ended it even before we made a deal lol.What's the Industrial Model M SSK case for?
So it's a 1:1 trade. My Model M w/ its original case and bolt modded internals for the Tandem. Yes! :D
Now I need to find a Model M carcass for the industrial case.......
I just hope to have a shot at one of these Tandem boards some day. My dad used to use these everyday at his job, I just wish he would've grabbed 'em his company was recycling them... that being said, I wasn't even born yet so there's no way he could have known I'd one day want them. Oh well, good things come to those that wait, eh?
Hello all. I'm ohaimark. It's flattering to see all this discussion.It's cool man :) Excited to see that shot! Family reunion at last. Glad to be a part of it.
I apologize for the last minute listing removal. I received an offer I couldn't refuse, clearly.
I plan to post a nice group shot of the Lexmark family, if that helps anyone feel better.
Not a fan of Salmon. SKCL Heavy Pink?
Also ohhaimark just pm'd me on reddit wanting my Lexmark branded 1398601 Model M. He has the rest of the lineup of those quite rare Lexmark branded Model M's (SSK, M15, M13) and is only missing mine.
I smell a deal, rich with Amber ;)
Yes, that's definitely a different colour. I was hoping to do a slider comparison picture and now this turns up D: .
If you want to part with that docutech you know who to callShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161013/5756059ca8adbe71bd4114b2990d0f47.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161013/7aea6d2e80440e15011e1a16239c5682.jpg)
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damn youre goodIf you want to part with that docutech you know who to callShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161013/5756059ca8adbe71bd4114b2990d0f47.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161013/7aea6d2e80440e15011e1a16239c5682.jpg)
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ghostbusters?!???
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Yes, that's definitely a different colour. I was hoping to do a slider comparison picture and now this turns up D: .
I have to change my nick to ghostbuster then :)
Are they pine or bamboo?Yes, that's definitely a different colour. I was hoping to do a slider comparison picture and now this turns up D: .
Well, you were definitely going to be more thorough than me, so don't use this as an excuse to not do it ;)
pretty sure bamboo. too much of a cherry person to know
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No, unfortunately I don't. I aim to make a photographic, detailed teardown of ALL Alps switches sometime though.Yes, that's definitely a different colour. I was hoping to do a slider comparison picture and now this turns up D: .
Have you got an Alps SKCL Amber slider to compare against SKCM Amber? Pretty sure they're the same shade, but I've traded all my ambers away and it's since been a pain in the ass to find another IIc on the cheap. :P
So beautiful...and new profile picShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/eynR4Lz.jpg)
nice what is it?
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So beautiful...and new profile picShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/eynR4Lz.jpg)
nice what is it?
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That must be my WTB, tactile alps green.
Man!!!!!!! so jelly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pretty much.So beautiful...and new profile picShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/eynR4Lz.jpg)
nice what is it?
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Chinese IBM Multistation spherical hi pros in a V60MTS that MattR modded with Alps SKCL Green. He was shooting to make it backlit but the desoldering process screwed up the backlighting as I remember.
V80MTS w/ SKCL AmberJust my $0.02 here but for the love of Alps, put the Ambers in a nicer board than a KBPV80. They're too rare to go into such an otherwise ordinary board :p
Don't have the money to throw at the keyboard space right now for an Alps custom. The thing is eventually I could get a Tex case and then you won't even be able to tell it's a V80 anymore.V80MTS w/ SKCL AmberJust my $0.02 here but for the love of Alps, put the Ambers in a nicer board than a KBPV80. They're too rare to go into such an otherwise ordinary board :p
Fair enough, Tex cases are so pricey though... I've been considering buying one for a while but then I just keep coming back to the fact that I can make a custom board for roughly the same price. I also can't justify the TKL form factor - I'm all about that 100%, 96-key or 60% lifestyle.Don't have the money to throw at the keyboard space right now for an Alps custom. The thing is eventually I could get a Tex case and then you won't even be able to tell it's a V80 anymore.V80MTS w/ SKCL AmberJust my $0.02 here but for the love of Alps, put the Ambers in a nicer board than a KBPV80. They're too rare to go into such an otherwise ordinary board :p
For E3E keyboard money grows on tree's :p
What. Its SKCL Green. The board is my V60 wearing Multistation caps.Ah, my mistake. Dumb :-X
Don't have the money to throw at the keyboard space right now for an Alps custom. The thing is eventually I could get a Tex case and then you won't even be able to tell it's a V80 anymore.V80MTS w/ SKCL AmberJust my $0.02 here but for the love of Alps, put the Ambers in a nicer board than a KBPV80. They're too rare to go into such an otherwise ordinary board :p
For E3E keyboard money grows on tree's :p
Yea. Those are all great potential boards but anything made in small number's is gonna call for a bigger price. I've been using this same tactic for a while. SKCL Green in a V60, SKCM Orange in a SGI, Model M in an industrial case, various MX switches in a old G80 etc. The Taobao stuff was going to be another version of this but then I found the Packard :thumb:Don't have the money to throw at the keyboard space right now for an Alps custom. The thing is eventually I could get a Tex case and then you won't even be able to tell it's a V80 anymore.V80MTS w/ SKCL AmberJust my $0.02 here but for the love of Alps, put the Ambers in a nicer board than a KBPV80. They're too rare to go into such an otherwise ordinary board :p
For E3E keyboard money grows on tree's :p
Not gonna lie, I stretch my budget a bit to make things work. Sometimes a bit too much, haha.
Personally, with ambers, I'd put them in another Leeku MXAlps 3000 PCB (those are incredibly hard to find now) with green plastic LEDs and put it in a Peacock WKL case or something. The FAME Cherry caps wouldn't match though.
It would have to be a back lit board though. For me, any rare linear needs to be used to its fullest potential. :P
I do need to cool it with spending, so I'd probably just put them in my other 60% hot swappable Eagle, since none of the tactiles have been my cup of tea with the CF plate. Too stiff, but it'll go great for linears.
Fair enough, Tex cases are so pricey though... I've been considering buying one for a while but then I just keep coming back to the fact that I can make a custom board for roughly the same price.Yea those Tex cases can get very expensive. The true point is that with a new case made by whoever could completely obscure the fact that it's a V80. I could make my own who knows ;)
Ive been going through and swapping the white alps click leaves with blue alps click leaves on my alps64, The click modded greens feel and sound even better with the blue alps leaves.Cool, could you post a video or something with a side-by-side sound comparison? I'm trying to pin down the difference in sound and its origin in these switches.
Does anyone have any extra springs for SKCM Blue Alps switches to sell? I need at least one (1), but I will take more if you have them to spare. I've also posted a WTB. Thanks!Yeah, I can help you out, PM your address and email and they're yours for the cost of shipping.
@mike52787: I've lost track. Did your alps64 have SKCL green Alps, which you then modded by swapping out the tops for those from white Alps along with white Alps click leaves? And now you have replaced the white Alps click leaves with blue Alps click leaves?I built my alps64 with SKCL greens harvested from a Sharp typewriter which I then modded with white alps click leaves and tops from a poor old focus 2001 that gave its life for the project. R.I.P. After modding the switches I installed them into my alps64 kit. Now what I am in the process of doing is swapping out the white alps click leaves with blue alps click leaves. I will post a video of a sound comparison soon.
If this is what you have done, how would you say that the greens with blue click leaves compare with blue Alps switches?
Will do!Ive been going through and swapping the white alps click leaves with blue alps click leaves on my alps64, The click modded greens feel and sound even better with the blue alps leaves.Cool, could you post a video or something with a side-by-side sound comparison? I'm trying to pin down the difference in sound and its origin in these switches.
Pingy and clicky, I like it :)Yeah, they're ever so slightly deeper sounding. Feels slightly better as well. They're both good, but I like the blues better.
They sound very similar but the Blue's are better, although the White's aren't very far behind at all.
Pingy and clicky, I like it :)Yeah, they're ever so slightly deeper sounding. Feels slightly better as well. They're both good, but I like the blues better.
They sound very similar but the Blue's are better, although the White's aren't very far behind at all.
you alps nerd! it's all about that mx blue click leaf. you need to try the green click leaf. it's like a heavier leaf. maybe a branch ...Last I checked... MX switches don't have click leaves, mwahahaha! Game. Set. Match. Checked!
all joking aside very cool how you can interchange parts like that and get new switch feelings. kinda wish MX did that. we just got the spring game on the other side - hello ---- adele
Theyre a bit deeper, but still just as pingy. The recording doesnt really do justice to the real sound of these switches.Thanks! The difference doesn't sound quite as pronounced in this case, as I had expected. This would suggest that the difference in sound in not just due to the click leaves, although they play a small part perhaps.
Theyre a bit deeper, but still just as pingy. The recording doesnt really do justice to the real sound of these switches.Thanks! The difference doesn't sound quite as pronounced in this case, as I had expected. This would suggest that the difference in sound in not just due to the click leaves, although they play a small part perhaps.
Also thanks Ethan, I hadn't noticed the smoothness of the blue click leaf. I'll be making close-up pictures like this as well hopefully, to document this in more detail.
No, I didn't intend to compare these to blue Alps. I wanted this video because I wanted to compare the sound white and blue click leaves make under comparable conditions. Doing them off-switch is a pretty good way of doing just that.Theyre a bit deeper, but still just as pingy. The recording doesnt really do justice to the real sound of these switches.Thanks! The difference doesn't sound quite as pronounced in this case, as I had expected. This would suggest that the difference in sound in not just due to the click leaves, although they play a small part perhaps.
Also thanks Ethan, I hadn't noticed the smoothness of the blue click leaf. I'll be making close-up pictures like this as well hopefully, to document this in more detail.
No problem. :) Yeah, it's really subjective when it comes to the sound. To me, mike's modified greens sound very similar to blue Alps, but you seem to feel like there's still a difference. I'm not sure what to think. :-\
Greens have pretty much everything a blue Alps switch has: long switch plate, dry lubricant on the slider, a light spring. There's the top housing, which comes from an SKCM white, but it doesn't seem too different from an SKCM blue top.
The only thing that comes to mind at this point is the variations in color between top housings, like the bluish housings versus the black ones.
My heat gun isn't nearly powerful enough to assist me in getting rid of these soldered bolts.
How much would removing the bolts entirely affect the feeling of the board when it's reassembled? Would i notice that they're gone?
Looks like it would take a ton, there are like 5 heavily soldered bolts. I only spent 40 dollars on the entire board, spending 40 more dollars to get it apart would be a shame. It would work though, it's just probably cheaper to get a stronger heatgun lol. Mines 300w, so it probably gets to 500 ish degrees F. Not quite hot enough. There'a a 1200w 1000 degrees F heat gun on amazon for 20$. I'm just weighing whether or not it's worth just drilling out the bolts or getting a new heat gun.
Looks like it would take a ton, there are like 5 heavily soldered bolts. I only spent 40 dollars on the entire board, spending 40 more dollars to get it apart would be a shame. It would work though, it's just probably cheaper to get a stronger heatgun lol. Mines 300w, so it probably gets to 500 ish degrees F. Not quite hot enough. There'a a 1200w 1000 degrees F heat gun on amazon for 20$. I'm just weighing whether or not it's worth just drilling out the bolts or getting a new heat gun.
Well, the thing with QuikChip is that it just take a small dab of the stuff for the solder to stay molten for a longer period of time. A tiny dab, heat it up, and get the solder sucker or pry apart when heated (not sure how these soldered bolts look though).
That gun sounds like it might be dangerously hot. I'd be afraid of it damaging some components. With something like QuikChip, you don't need a lot, it reduces soldering temperatures, and as a result, it stays molten much longer. You can literally move a part around for several seconds as opposed to the bond becoming almost instantly solid again the second you take heat away from it like with normal solder.
It really is worth it to have some. :) I think one pack would be more than enough to use for this, but you'd just have to not be excessive. You don't need a lot to get the desired result.
I've discovered a new source of Tai-Hao WoB doubleshot Alps-mount keycaps -- Clueboard:I saw those a while back when I was considering building a Clueboard - I just couldn't get behind the all-acrylic construction. What're you planning on using your Tai-Hao keycaps on? I used to have a set on my old AT101W (http://imgur.com/a/2TqR3) and they're not bad, you get a lot of bang for your buck; however, now that I've gotten used to PBT/thicker caps I don't think I could go back :p
...
I received my TKL + NumPad sets today, and they included 5 extra novelty caps as compensation for a slight delay in shipping.
However, recently, I have been acquiring vintage Alps boards, and I have learned to tolerate, and even enjoy, using the stock doubleshot ABS caps on some of them, at least until I can source PBT caps that I like.Have you considered trying to find a Dell AT101 (not 'W')? If you like the 5140's PBT dye-subbed legends, you'll probably like the AT101's since they're the same. Plus, you'd get a full matching set. Unfortunately, Dell AT101's are becoming scarce compared to their SGI AT101 counterparts. I also didn't realize the DC3014 is stepped the same way as an AT101 - I guess that makes sense since Alps Electric was behind both boards.
...
A good source of a dye-sub PBT set for a full-size keyboard is the SGI "Bigfoot" series of keyboards. These have thick PBT caps of excellent quality in a winkeyless layout and standard OEM profile. The CapsLock is stepped, so the SGI set will work completely on the Leading Edge DC-3014. The only drawback for me with the SGI set is the Italic font. My own preference is a regular font. However, the SGI keyboards are relatively plentiful at fairly reasonable prices.
What I have been doing on some of the vintage Alps boards is to populate the alpha keys with dye-sub PBT caps and fill in the remainder of the board with blank black ABS from Matias and/or doubleshot ABS caps from vintage boards or from new sets made by Tai-Hao. The blanks work especially well for me because I remap a number of the keys and it would be difficult to find the correct legends. I also like to have color symmetry, with the Backquote/Tilde and Backslash keys the same color as the modifiers.Ah, OK, that makes sense. I'll look forward to seeing those pictures. Also, duly noted about the quality - that's a bit disappointing since I find the modern Tai-Hao keycaps to be too thin for me. I was hoping Matias' offerings would be thicker.
...
I find that the quality of the blank black caps from Matias is fine for the modifiers and on par with the Tai-Hao doubleshot ABS caps.
My SGI granite feels really good. Glad I got the ps2 version. Might swap orange alps in it eventually. maybe in the SKCM greens since I could desolder them later.Does it have dampened whites or dampened creams?
knew itMy SGI granite feels really good. Glad I got the ps2 version. Might swap orange alps in it eventually. maybe in the SKCM greens since I could desolder them later.Does it have dampened whites or dampened creams?
too much of a gay person to check
I've been using dampened white and oh boy are they fun.My SGI granite feels really good. Glad I got the ps2 version. Might swap orange alps in it eventually. maybe in the SKCM greens since I could desolder them later.Does it have dampened whites or dampened creams?
So in anticipation toward the Tandem coming tomorrow I put the internals of a SKCL Cream into my SGI to get an idea of what they could feel like. At first the Cream felt too heavy but after a little bit I actually like them a lot. Unlike SKCL Green which can be a bit abrupt going down SKCL Cream has a cushion of sorts. A characteristic I have heard of other heavier linear switches like SKCL Brown.
Also had an unexpected surprise. The SKCL Cream has a black switch plate :eek: Was not expecting that. The only other black switchplate switches I have are the SKCL Green from the 1984 dated Multistation. This implies that the Sharp typewriter the Cream came out of must be an early one as well and it's SKCL Greens also had black switchplates.
Yea, let's just hope they aren't too heavy, I also don't think they will be. It's going to be that little extra bit that side by side you would notice but after a week of use? By that point you wouldn't be able to tell. Let's also hope that I get the right one :PSo in anticipation toward the Tandem coming tomorrow I put the internals of a SKCL Cream into my SGI to get an idea of what they could feel like. At first the Cream felt too heavy but after a little bit I actually like them a lot. Unlike SKCL Green which can be a bit abrupt going down SKCL Cream has a cushion of sorts. A characteristic I have heard of other heavier linear switches like SKCL Brown.
Also had an unexpected surprise. The SKCL Cream has a black switch plate :eek: Was not expecting that. The only other black switchplate switches I have are the SKCL Green from the 1984 dated Multistation. This implies that the Sharp typewriter the Cream came out of must be an early one as well and it's SKCL Greens also had black switchplates.
Oh wow, is it coming in tomorrow? I didn't even notice. :eek:
Yuuuus, the cushion of heavier linears is one of my favorite aspects. Ambers have supreme cushion, but they ARE heavier than Alps SKCL Brown and Cream, so I too am concerned if they'll be too heavy. I don't think so though, I think it'll just be more cushion for the pushin', so to speak.
Playing around with the amber space bar using a single key once, it actually felt like an Alps switch that could feasibly be "floated" and held just above actuation point, whereas most other Alps switches are too light for that to be practical with the high actuation point.
Ahh yeah, I got black switchplate SKCL Greens from a Sharp Typewriter too! One I desoldered for a customer as well. I figure it must've been from 1984. The SKCL Compacts they came with also had black plates. I used a black switchplate to repair a chattery SKCL Brown once.
Pretty nifty. :)
Okay, wow. SKCM Brown has a seriously light spring.
I measured actuation at ~47.5 (9 nickles and a penny). Bottom out was at 50.
See the weird thing with Alps that makes it so hard to figure out a proper bottom out weight is, well... Sometimes the balance of the weight on the cap lets more or less weight sit on top of the switch before bottoming. I guess because of the weight distribution?
I could get it to bottom with 50 though, every time. So it is much lighter than SKCL Brown.
So we've got a spring that's pretty much on par with SKCL Green in an otherwise heavy switch. The leaf spring really does take up all the resistance.
Testing SKCL Brown again, it bottoms at 70g. So actuation for brown is 60g and it bottoms at 70.
Ooooh, someone should put a SKCM Brown tactile leaf into a SKCL Amber and see what results :eek:
I'll do it tomorrow when I get the Tandem.
It can work either way. I'll do it your way since it's easier. Amber spring in a Brown.
I will create the Alps switch on steroids!
Obviously you would also need a SKCM top housing. Other than that I don't see what the problem would be.
I'll do it the other way though since it's easier lol.
If you just soak them in warm water with some detergent it should become easy to peel of the stickers. At least it was this way with my m0115 and m0116 which both had stickers on their numpads.
@E3E, ohaimark weighed an SKCL clear from his Panasonic board to be between 75-80 gf. That would be a bit higher than your measurement of 70gf for SKCL brown. Of course, this is all within a margin of error when taking into account state of the switch, measurement itself and so on.
SKCL Clear, hehe.
Guys, guess what I finally started putting together?That green plate is gorgeous! fully customized omnikeys are so great. Are you planning on painting the case? what caps are going on that beauty?MoreMy Omnikey Dream Build ❤️:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lnplQy8.jpg)
Massive shout-out to fohat for helping make this happen; he sold me the board and did a great job painting the plate. I mean, my car got wrecked today (I wasn't driving it so I'm safe) but at least I have this :thumb:
That green plate is gorgeous! fully customized omnikeys are so great. Are you planning on painting the case? what caps are going on that beauty?I don't think I'll paint the case, this one is in really nice shape and so I wouldn't have anything to "hide." Hoping to find some Alps Electric double-shots for the alphas. The Japanese made AT101 I found (on Taobao) ended up being out of stock but I still have some OG Tai-Hao double-shots I could put on there in the mean time... Or AT101 PBTs... Or IBM 5140 PBTs... The point is I have options. I'll probably go with the AT101 PBTs since PBTs (in general) seem to sound really nice on this chassis when paired with Blues, we'll see. I'm still going to be pining for a Japanese Made AT101 with pine switches and Alps Electric double-shots, though, haha. I told the seller to let me know as soon as he finds one :p
I can sell you a set of alps electric alphas, Im not using them. They were the ones that were on my alps64 when you saw it. such nice caps. nice and thick.That green plate is gorgeous! fully customized omnikeys are so great. Are you planning on painting the case? what caps are going on that beauty?I don't think I'll paint the case, this one is in really nice shape and so I wouldn't have anything to "hide." Hoping to find some Alps Electric Double-shots for the Alphas. The Japanese made AT101 I found (on Taobao) ended up being out of stock but I still have some OG Tai-Hao double-shots I could put on there in the mean time... Or AT101 PBTs... Or IBM 5140 PBTs... The point is I have options. I'll probably go with the AT101 PBTs since PBTs (in general) seem to sound really nice on this chassis when paired with Blues, we'll see. I'm still going to be pining for a Japanese Made AT101 with pine switches and Alps Electric double-shots, though, haha. I told the seller to let me know as soon as he finds one :p
Tht's known product. I can't remember what switches it has, but I think it was SKFL. Definitely not SKCL/SKCM though.
I find myself not enjoying linear switches as much as I expected.
Just built a board with Matias quiet linear using Infinity PCB and plate from Alps Party. However I find myself not enjoying linear switches as much as I expected.Thats not an infinity layout, but yeah, matias linears arent great. Use SKCL green if you want nice linears.
Infinity 1.1 (with LED support) also supports ANSI layout. I think I am just not a linear switch fan in general. I find the tactile feedback to be necessary for me.Just built a board with Matias quiet linear using Infinity PCB and plate from Alps Party. However I find myself not enjoying linear switches as much as I expected.Thats not an infinity layout, but yeah, matias linears arent great. Use SKCL green if you want nice linears.
Edgar Matias maintains that all Cherry mx switches are inherently linear; some claim to be tactile by grafting a bump onto the slider and others achieve clickiness by adding a clicker. I tend to agree with him, so that for me, the best Cherry switches are the ones that are billed as linear, unfettered with tactile or clicky add-ons. However, I find contemporary linear Cherry switches lack smoothness. Gateron seems to have addressed this, and if I were going to use a linear mx switch, I would choose Gateron yellow for a good blend of actuation and bottoming-out weights along with smooth operation.Yes, I agree with this completely. It's very obvious that the Cherry system was designed to be linear. Although this is also true for Alps, they went through much greater lengths to adapt that system for tactility and clickiness. Cherry switches, most definitely modern ones, are really bad; rough, scratchy, and badly weighted. Gateron black switches feel much smoother for sure, but their quality control is abysmal.
I still have high hopes for Matias.
I find myself not enjoying linear switches as much as I expected.
Linear switches suck. I don't know why they even exist.
I typed my thesis on SKCL green.
I find myself not enjoying linear switches as much as I expected.
Linear switches suck. I don't know why they even exist.
I LOVE clicky keys. However, I do find that linear are nice to game with. I find that with anything requiring constant key press, linear switches make it fun to lightly hover/bounce in the region between the top of the keypress and bottoming out.
linear switches make it fun to lightly hover/bounce in the region between the top of the keypress and bottoming out.
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I typed my thesis on SKCL green.
Do Alps plate spring switches have to be PCB-mounted?
If you just soak them in warm water with some detergent it should become easy to peel of the stickers. At least it was this way with my m0115 and m0116 which both had stickers on their numpads.
@lootbag would you mind sharing where you got your plate? i guess shipping to PH will be cheaper from your locI got it from Taobao, there are shops that offer the service and just send them a CAD file and choose what material you want.
Sent from my LG-H502 using Tapatalk
I got it from Taobao, there are shops that offer the service and just send them a CAD file and choose what material you want.
Additional close up shot of SKCL Striped Amber :)Do they have tall grey, tall white, or tall black switchplates? Do you know their place in the timeline?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GOoVEDn.jpg)
They have tall grey plates. The board was made in 1987, and the switches are lubed so they are first generation. Given their strong relationship to SKCL Brown I'd say it is in the same place as them timeline wise.Additional close up shot of SKCL Striped Amber :)Do they have tall grey, tall white, or tall black switchplates? Do you know their place in the timeline?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GOoVEDn.jpg)
On my Xeroxes, some of the ICs had a double digit code in the number stamped on them that gave away the year, like 91, 90, 89, etc. Look for something like that on the ICs to get an approximate date.IC?
With SKCL Brown, I'd imagine anywhere from 1986-1989. My Tandem with SKCL Browns was from 1987. The Striped Amber one is from 1986.
On my Xeroxes, some of the ICs had a double digit code in the number stamped on them that gave away the year, like 91, 90, 89, etc. Look for something like that on the ICs to get an approximate date.IC?
With SKCL Brown, I'd imagine anywhere from 1986-1989. My Tandem with SKCL Browns was from 1987. The Striped Amber one is from 1986.
Some of you may have seen this already, but I just finished a big (for me) AEKII project, and I'm loving the results!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0mW16qR.jpg)
Full album here: http://imgur.com/a/muJvc
I'm already itching to do something more with my salmons and on the hunt for some orange and/or blue switches. I've been using Matias switches (both Click and Quiet Click) for about five years now but only got into vintage switches in the last few months. I love the click-modded salmons to death, but click-modded creams are a nice compromise, quiet enough that I can use them while my wife and kids are sleeping but still nice and clicky.
Some of you may have seen this already, but I just finished a big (for me) AEKII project, and I'm loving the results!Thats beautiful. Great work!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0mW16qR.jpg)
Full album here: http://imgur.com/a/muJvc
I'm already itching to do something more with my salmons and on the hunt for some orange and/or blue switches. I've been using Matias switches (both Click and Quiet Click) for about five years now but only got into vintage switches in the last few months. I love the click-modded salmons to death, but click-modded creams are a nice compromise, quiet enough that I can use them while my wife and kids are sleeping but still nice and clicky.
Some of you may have seen this already, but I just finished a big (for me) AEKII project, and I'm loving the results!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0mW16qR.jpg)
Full album here: http://imgur.com/a/muJvc
I'm already itching to do something more with my salmons and on the hunt for some orange and/or blue switches. I've been using Matias switches (both Click and Quiet Click) for about five years now but only got into vintage switches in the last few months. I love the click-modded salmons to death, but click-modded creams are a nice compromise, quiet enough that I can use them while my wife and kids are sleeping but still nice and clicky.
Really great work, was in awe when I saw it on Reddit. Was the Apple logo used a sticker or from the case of an AEK?
I found an "86" one one of those with a Texas Instruments (?) logo next to it.
Alps Return Springs: Is there a compilation somewhere of the differences and similarities of Alps return springs, both across different Alps switch types (and clones) and within a given switch type?
For example, the return springs in SKCM white switches are shorter than those in Matias Click switches. Alps return springs can be the same length but have a different number of coils. Some are silver-colored while others are gold-colored, etc.
Show Image(https://images-ext-2.discordapp.net/eyJ1cmwiOiJodHRwOi8vaS5pbWd1ci5jb20vMUpBNmR5RC5qcGcifQ.ImPNn5R9n5bHl3ISlrmokYUY9-o?width=2000&height=1692)
Show Image(https://images-ext-2.discordapp.net/eyJ1cmwiOiJodHRwOi8vaS5pbWd1ci5jb20vMUpBNmR5RC5qcGcifQ.ImPNn5R9n5bHl3ISlrmokYUY9-o?width=2000&height=1692)
Show Image(https://images-ext-2.discordapp.net/eyJ1cmwiOiJodHRwOi8vaS5pbWd1ci5jb20vMUpBNmR5RC5qcGcifQ.ImPNn5R9n5bHl3ISlrmokYUY9-o?width=2000&height=1692)
I have had a bias toward clicky or tactile switches, and I didn't expect to like the linear green Alps. However, I do like them. They are extremely smooth.This is exactly what I had at first as well :p . I didn't like any linear switches until I tried linear Alps, and now I have several linear switches I really love. In fact I've heard the exact same story from quite a few members now, they hate linears until they tried linear Alps.
Multistation caps are awesome because they are spherical. Unfortunately mixing them with cylindrical mods (that don't even match color-wise) looks awful. To my mind, a better alternative would be a full DSA set with ALPs stems. Can't wait for my LightCycle DSA set!
(Attachment Link)
I have had a bias toward clicky or tactile switches, and I didn't expect to like the linear green Alps. However, I do like them. They are extremely smooth.This is exactly what I had at first as well :p . I didn't like any linear switches until I tried linear Alps, and now I have several linear switches I really love. In fact I've heard the exact same story from quite a few members now, they hate linears until they tried linear Alps.
I know Cherry has a reputation for making inherently linear switches, but the way I see it, they're not even good at that because their linear switches suck ass; they're badly weighted and scratchy as hell; the two things most important for linear switches. Green or linearised Alps have perfect weighting and are smooth as ****.
Multistation caps and other sets like it are sculpted hi profile key caps, of which there are no real alternatives for Alps. D:
The DSA profile is consistent, but for me it just isn't right. I need a sculpted profile, both for aesthetics and function. I cannot type well on a flat profile like DSA, and I like the look of varying row heights as in OEM, Cherry, Leopold, DCS, and SA, or as achieved via a curved plate in IBM Model F and Model M keyboards.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vJWoyGc.jpg)
Oh my.
I need to find another Multistation set.
There's an Alps64 build with SKCL greens and a set of SGI caps for $220 on /r/mechmarket right now.Thats a pretty good price, I would snag it!
I was thinking about picking it up and modding it to fit into a spare X60 case that I'll have.
Is $220 a good price or should I try and get it for lower?
I'm considering picking up a Wang 725-3770 with black alps because i'm a slut who doesn't appreciate nice switches.
Is it actually a decent quality board? NKRO or 2KRO or what?
The only info on deskthority is switches and model numbers basically, as well as a few pictures.
I'm considering picking up a Wang 725-3770 with black alps because i'm a slut who doesn't appreciate nice switches.Just wait to buy one off ebay, you may get lucky and get one with salmons or even oranges. The wang 725-3770 is a great board, with sweet pbt dyesubs, awesome build quality, and NKRO.
Is it actually a decent quality board? NKRO or 2KRO or what?
The only info on deskthority is switches and model numbers basically, as well as a few pictures.
The Wang uses Pine SKCM Black i'm pretty sure. Still not as good as SKCM Salmon or Orange though.Wangs can use Pine black, salmon, or orange, and the lock led switches can be yellow or green.
I'm considering picking up a Wang 725-3770 with black alps because i'm a slut who doesn't appreciate nice switches.
Is it actually a decent quality board? NKRO or 2KRO or what?
The only info on deskthority is switches and model numbers basically, as well as a few pictures.
If you didn't appreciate nice switches you wouldn't have come to this thread in the first place ;) Caps are nice enough that the Kingsaver was designed around them but you will quickly learn how bad black alps are.
I'm considering picking up a Wang 725-3770 with black alps because i'm a slut who doesn't appreciate nice switches.
I'm considering picking up a Wang 725-3770 with black alps because i'm a slut who doesn't appreciate nice switches.The Wang is built quite well. Pine black Alps are nothing like the later bamboo ones, they're quite nice switches really.
Is it actually a decent quality board? NKRO or 2KRO or what?
The only info on deskthority is switches and model numbers basically, as well as a few pictures.
Pine blacks are pretty nice. I don't know if it has those. I only have bamboo blacks in one board, and that's a really well kept AT101W, and they are pretty shallow, kind of like what some here described salmons to be, but maybe a bit more scratchy, or lets say "noisy" under the finger.Salmons have a nice defined tactile bump, theyre not as much of a "bumpy road" as the black I tried. I belive the black I tried was a bamboo black, so not sure if that changes anything. In my experience I would say that salmons are more related to oranges.
Hi the ALPS people here!Matias switches as a general rule arent as good as vintage alps. I have tried both and prefer the creams, even though I didnt like either that much. I much prefer dampened whites to dampened creams or matias QC. Matias switches are based on the later simplified alps design, where as the creams use the complicated switchplate design. Also, matias have alot of wobble compared to vintage alps, which doesnt really mean anything, but still is worth mentioning.
I've just realized that the best switches I've tried on a keyboard are the ALPS SKCM Dampened Cream switches.
I've heard the feels of Matias Quiet-Click may be able to resemble these dampened cream switches. Is it really so? And how similar are they?
Bamboos are completely different from pines. Pine blacks feel remarkably like salmons.Pine blacks are pretty nice. I don't know if it has those. I only have bamboo blacks in one board, and that's a really well kept AT101W, and they are pretty shallow, kind of like what some here described salmons to be, but maybe a bit more scratchy, or lets say "noisy" under the finger.Salmons have a nice defined tactile bump, theyre not as much of a "bumpy road" as the black I tried. I belive the black I tried was a bamboo black, so not sure if that changes anything. In my experience I would say that salmons are more related to oranges.
I have been looking for a panel mount mini usb for awhile now, where did you get yours?The panel mounts I have been using are micro-USB rather than mini-USB:
I must try them then! is the tactile leaf different or is it just because of the tops?Bamboos are completely different from pines. Pine blacks feel remarkably like salmons.Pine blacks are pretty nice. I don't know if it has those. I only have bamboo blacks in one board, and that's a really well kept AT101W, and they are pretty shallow, kind of like what some here described salmons to be, but maybe a bit more scratchy, or lets say "noisy" under the finger.Salmons have a nice defined tactile bump, theyre not as much of a "bumpy road" as the black I tried. I belive the black I tried was a bamboo black, so not sure if that changes anything. In my experience I would say that salmons are more related to oranges.
You never know with Alps xD . Watch the review though, it shows the difference quite well.I must try them then! is the tactile leaf different or is it just because of the tops?Bamboos are completely different from pines. Pine blacks feel remarkably like salmons.Pine blacks are pretty nice. I don't know if it has those. I only have bamboo blacks in one board, and that's a really well kept AT101W, and they are pretty shallow, kind of like what some here described salmons to be, but maybe a bit more scratchy, or lets say "noisy" under the finger.Salmons have a nice defined tactile bump, theyre not as much of a "bumpy road" as the black I tried. I belive the black I tried was a bamboo black, so not sure if that changes anything. In my experience I would say that salmons are more related to oranges.
Bamboos are completely different from pines. Pine blacks feel remarkably like salmons.Pine blacks are pretty nice. I don't know if it has those. I only have bamboo blacks in one board, and that's a really well kept AT101W, and they are pretty shallow, kind of like what some here described salmons to be, but maybe a bit more scratchy, or lets say "noisy" under the finger.Salmons have a nice defined tactile bump, theyre not as much of a "bumpy road" as the black I tried. I belive the black I tried was a bamboo black, so not sure if that changes anything. In my experience I would say that salmons are more related to oranges.
They're pine. AFAIK the Wangs never came with bamboos.Bamboos are completely different from pines. Pine blacks feel remarkably like salmons.Pine blacks are pretty nice. I don't know if it has those. I only have bamboo blacks in one board, and that's a really well kept AT101W, and they are pretty shallow, kind of like what some here described salmons to be, but maybe a bit more scratchy, or lets say "noisy" under the finger.Salmons have a nice defined tactile bump, theyre not as much of a "bumpy road" as the black I tried. I belive the black I tried was a bamboo black, so not sure if that changes anything. In my experience I would say that salmons are more related to oranges.
You'll have to forgive my ignorance, as i'm not entirely sure how to tell which is which, but does that 1995 wang come with Bamboo or Pine? There is a shadow in the Dell video over the area you were pointing to lol. I understand it has to do with slits but I've no clue what that really means
Edit: found a post from may saying they're bamboo
I enjoyed Bamboo, as soon as i can i'll put it back on my desk instead of my Granite with dampened whites to get a feel for them again.
Also great videos, i had totally forgotten that project L was in a Wang
They're pine. AFAIK the Wangs never came with bamboos.
Basically pine = slits, bamboo = no slits. The pine switches are of an older variety, which with Alps almost invariably means better. The very earliest ones had especially long slits, too. MouseFan came up with the terminology.
****, I must've misremembered, I think you're right.They're pine. AFAIK the Wangs never came with bamboos.
Basically pine = slits, bamboo = no slits. The pine switches are of an older variety, which with Alps almost invariably means better. The very earliest ones had especially long slits, too. MouseFan came up with the terminology.
This is where I pretend to know french and say "au contraire," my friend. :b I've actually only heard of the Wangs having bamboo blacks, not pines, but I'd imagine maybe the earliest SKCM Black models had pine unless it jumped into them past the transition point.
@alienman82: I don't like cherries. They smell and taste like benzaldehyde. ;)1995 sounds very bambooey. I'd be quite surprised if you could fine a pine 1995 board.
@Chyros and E3E: Any idea when Wang made the transition to bamboo blacks? I have an NIB Wang that I think was made in 1995.
@Chyros: Dang! Guess I'll feed those 1995 Wang switches to the Pandas.All the modified Dells were bamboo. The only pine SKCM black board I own is the old-logo one.
Regarding your "Clickfoot" Dell, were those pine or bamboo black Alps?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2Hw3AHz.jpg)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2Hw3AHz.jpg)
Nice Alps board.
was a joke
Cleaning the SKCL Striped Amber's and the normal spacebar Amber has a black switchplate while the striped's all have gray. Interesting.
IGNORED BECAUSE JEALOUSCleaning the SKCL Striped Amber's and the normal spacebar Amber has a black switchplate while the striped's all have gray. Interesting.
I need to check mine out. I haven't gotten around to desoldering it yet
don't ignore the lovely DGE
So I am aware that the IBM PC 5140 has Brown ALPS, but are there any other notable boards with tactile Brown ALPS that I should be on the lookout for?Magnavox videowriter can come with brown alps as well. 2 best known sources.
So I am aware that the IBM PC 5140 has Brown ALPS, but are there any other notable boards with tactile Brown ALPS that I should be on the lookout for?
A great example of yellowing thanks to the Tandem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rs7UKol.jpg?1)
Also opened and cleaned all the Striped Amber's. Great condition, just a bit dusty. Also if you notice it seems the stripes were put on by hand, there not consistent verses if it was done by a machine.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sA4Xwpv.jpg)
I feel like Striped Ambers are something we won't be seeing much of at all.
I feel like Striped Ambers are something we won't be seeing much of at all.
Which is sad really since it's such a great switch. Hope to see more Tandem's in the future. I'm pretty sure these were a exclusive switch for Tandem.
Also it makes sense they choose Amber as the slider color. They likely had a surplus of SKCL Amber parts which explains the age discrepancy between the spacebar Amber and the Striped ones in my board. The conversation was likely: Crap, we have a special order for a custom weighted switch, what should we use? Oh, how about some of the old Amber stock. We'll mark them so we can tell them apart rather than manufacturing a whole new part just for it.
So I am aware that the IBM PC 5140 has Brown ALPS, but are there any other notable boards with tactile Brown ALPS that I should be on the lookout for?
Xerox 6085 keyboard (most), Magnavox Videowriter (not guaranteed), then some even more obscure Texas Instruments keyboards (Texas Instruments OPTI 900 Model 931 VDT), and a Yamaha LK201 clone.
These latter two are almost never seen and the Xerox 6085 keyboards aren't very common either.
Oh yea, forgot about the Blue connection. Comparing Blue and Striped Amber springs, they aren't the same. The Amber springs resembles a Green spring more than a Blue one. I did just put a blue spring in a Amber however and they feel the exact same nonetheless! It might as well have been a hodge podge lol.I feel like Striped Ambers are something we won't be seeing much of at all.
Which is sad really since it's such a great switch. Hope to see more Tandem's in the future. I'm pretty sure these were a exclusive switch for Tandem.
Also it makes sense they choose Amber as the slider color. They likely had a surplus of SKCL Amber parts which explains the age discrepancy between the spacebar Amber and the Striped ones in my board. The conversation was likely: Crap, we have a special order for a custom weighted switch, what should we use? Oh, how about some of the old Amber stock. We'll mark them so we can tell them apart rather than manufacturing a whole new part just for it.
I don't know, those are a lot of assumptions to make. It's possible though. It's not exactly truly custom weighted, since SKCM Blues are the same exact weight without their click leaves (and SKCM Blue has a unique weight unless SKCM Cream is truly the same weight as advertised). If it truly was a hodge podge of SKCM Blue springs and SKCL Amber housings, then lol. I don't even.
I've got an old apple m0116 with orange alps on. I really like the way it feels and was wondering about adapters you can buy or diy. Honestly they're really nice switches.
So I am aware that the IBM PC 5140 has Brown ALPS, but are there any other notable boards with tactile Brown ALPS that I should be on the lookout for?
Xerox 6085 keyboard (most), Magnavox Videowriter (not guaranteed), then some even more obscure Texas Instruments keyboards (Texas Instruments OPTI 900 Model 931 VDT), and a Yamaha LK201 clone.
These latter two are almost never seen and the Xerox 6085 keyboards aren't very common either.
AT&T UNIX PC7300 keyboards also had SCKM Browns, but they go for big bucks.
Oh yea, forgot about the Blue connection. Comparing Blue and Striped Amber springs, they aren't the same. The Amber springs resembles a Green spring more than a Blue one. I did just put a blue spring in a Amber however and they feel the exact same nonetheless! It might as well have been a hodge podge lol.
But using extra stock of Ambers to create a new switch for Tandem? Seems possible.
I -think- I've seen SKCM Blues with dull springs before, but I'm not sure.Correct, I'll be showing SKCM blues with dull springs in a few weeks ;) .
I think so, you were early on. Memorable people I traded with are you, Chryos and E3E. I'm sure I'm missing one or two others.Jesus, its complete :eek:
hey! I think I was a part of that ?!
Don't you need SKCL Grey? :eek:Yea, but I filled up all the available spaces (and had to make room by having the Lock on the side and taking out a clone) so it's pretty much complete.
Recieved my NTC mini, really cool board. It has a plastic plate, which is making me think. Im really contemplating desoldering it and trying to install leds in holes in the plate. Will this be a way to get a backlit alps board with SKCM switches? Will I desolder it? find out at 11. :p
on a more serious note, has anyone tried this before?
I don't really get the bad rap of SKCL Yellow, they are still a good switch. In fact, it's one of the only 2nd gen switches that didn't get significantly worse compared to the first. There only a tiny bit rougher and a bit heavier, and some people might like that second part.
I think it's just b/c SKCL Green is almost more common than Yellow so people just went with that.
does older (pine) non-clicky tactile alps switches have those double bumps that matias quiet clicks and bamboo blacks have?Yes, they do, it's caused by the switchplate. That said, I've found it to be more prominent in Matias switches than in complicated Alps.
i was able to read all 86 pages of this thread but could not remember if this was mentioned already... sorry.
Yes, they do, it's caused by the switchplate. That said, I've found it to be more prominent in Matias switches than in complicated Alps.
Yes, it's because clicky Alps switches are more tactile than tactile switches, so you kinda shoot down further when going over the tactile bump. Therefore, you go over the (minute) second bump at higher speed, and you won't notice it as much.Yes, they do, it's caused by the switchplate. That said, I've found it to be more prominent in Matias switches than in complicated Alps.
thanks, chyros. any idea why these double bump not felt on clicky variant?
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thanks again, chyros. that makes a lot of sense. ...i hope matias could make a switch that could match/align those bumps.Basically, you're asking them to make complicated Alps xD . Many of us here wish that that were the case xD .
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Basically, you're asking them to make complicated Alps xD . Many of us here wish that that were the case xD .
In all fairness, they're called "complicated" Alps for a reason ;) .Basically, you're asking them to make complicated Alps xD . Many of us here wish that that were the case xD .
it is sad that this is more far fetched than new PBT caps for alps :(
In all fairness, they're called "complicated" Alps for a reason ;) .Basically, you're asking them to make complicated Alps xD . Many of us here wish that that were the case xD .
it is sad that this is more far fetched than new PBT caps for alps :(
10-13, depending on the model. The switchplate comprises six parts.In all fairness, they're called "complicated" Alps for a reason ;) .Basically, you're asking them to make complicated Alps xD . Many of us here wish that that were the case xD .
it is sad that this is more far fetched than new PBT caps for alps :(
How many parts does a fully disassembled switch have, 12? It's amazing they managed to keep it up so long, frankly
I've discovered that the simplified Matias switch is not necessarily less prone to error or damage than complicated Alps switches. I manged to mangle the contact leaf in a Matias Click switch when reassembling it after swapping out exchangeable parts. Thus far, I have not experienced such mishaps with complicated Alps switches.
This could very well be. I do not have any direct experience as yet with other types of simplified Alps or simplified Alps clones.
This situation reminds me of an opt-repeated quote attributed to Einstein:
“Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler.”
The implication is that if things are made too simple, they can end up being wrong or not working.
I suppose a laudable goal in designing and building any machine is not to make it complicated or simple, but to optimize it.
@menuhin: Yes, excellent points! We who mod do so at our own risk. The current generation of Matias switches may be mediocre, but to me at least, they are far better than any Cherry mx switch. I still hold out hope that Matias will introduce improved versions of their switches. In the meantime, or alternatively, there is much to be enjoyed in the Alps world by acquiring vintage Alps boards and refurbishing them and/or using them to harvest switches for a custom build. I am typing this on my Northgate Omnikey 101 with cleaned and lubed switches, and it is marvelous. I only wish it were a 60% keyboard -- for this, I need to find the time and pull together the materials to make a custom board.
It's a very different game you guys play in this thread.
There are those very rare buckling springs enthusiasts.
You guys in this threads are like... 'Necromancers' spotting dead or undead keyboards, mutilate them, and dissect their switches further to harvest the essence of their vital organs. And by putting parts of these mutilated hosts together, a keyboard is revived and perhaps functions better than its previous glory.
but IBM caps are already amazing. alps different story generally speaking of courseYes! Similarly for Topre caps, as found on the HHKB and RF87U, among some others.
although the PBT feels better than the stock ABS caps
@Mattr567: It would be great if you could run off copies of your Alps switch sampler and put them up for sale. In any event, it is fun to admire the pics you've posted.The thing is that for a majority of the switches I only have one of them, like SKCM Brown or SKCL Cream etc so I can't really run off copies. I have extras of Orange, Salmon, Blue, Green Yellow, Cream and White Dampened only.
Hey everyone, newbie to alps switches here. I got Hasu's pcb coming and some orange alps on hand. I have some questions. Where would I find a 60% plate? I understand that I would have to get it custom cut, so where would I find the files? I heard that dry lube would help the older switches? Finally, for stabilizers, would a set of matias stabilizers be okay? From here: https://matias.store/products/stabilizer-and-hook-setyou should have acquired fr-4 non-steel plate from hasu as well. i think his plate is nice. i use it on my alps64 build. it only comes in aek layout though. or... cut the plate from where you got your oranges?
Thanks
Hey everyone, newbie to alps switches here. I got Hasu's pcb coming and some orange alps on hand. I have some questions. Where would I find a 60% plate? I understand that I would have to get it custom cut, so where would I find the files? I heard that dry lube would help the older switches? Finally, for stabilizers, would a set of matias stabilizers be okay? From here: https://matias.store/products/stabilizer-and-hook-setHere is a link to open source 60% Alps plates:
Thanks
That's normal for AT101Ws. It's not the end of the world
Really? I must've had over two dozen AT101Ws (well technically AT102Ws) by now and every single one I looked at had all the pins bent Oo .
That's normal for AT101Ws. It's not the end of the world
I wouldn't say "normal" but a significant percentage (~1/3) have many or all of the pins bent over.
I wouldn't say "normal" but a significant percentage (~1/3) have many or all of the pins bent over.
Yes, I like the build quality of the Apple PBT caps. In addition to the other quirks, however, I would add the profile and the D and K homing keys.
although the PBT feels better than the stock ABS caps
In my opinion, the one and only *GREAT* type of PBT caps available for ALPS are the old Apple caps with the stupid font and impossible function row.
For people who like blanks, however, just dye them all black and you are set - provided that you like yellow space bars!
I suppose I forgot about the whole stabilizer issue. I am not firm on a carbon fiber plate though, so I guess any plate works. As long as I can just throw the board into whatever 60% case I decide on and use the tai hao caps if possible, I will be happy.So I've got enough green alps to make a 60%. What options do I have when it comes to building a board? I also have a set of those WoB alps caps from tai hao.
I would LOVE to get a standard 60% layout carbon fiber plate, but is that something that has been done/might be done? Then I could throw it in a 60% case. Not sure.
if you get one of the universal carbon fiber plates, it will use MX staps which means it's more suited towards SP caps made for alps. I know that is what E3E did for his couple of 60% builds.
If you can find someone to cut a custom plate, then you should be able to get any layout / stab type done really.
If I was building a custom alps 60% I would probably use priginal caps like SGI and maybe dye them all black.
You have options with alps, it's just a bit frustrating compared to the amount of cherry options.
Though I do remember E3E stating that carbon fiber wasn't best suited for green SKCL, but I may be wrong. He can shine light on this when he wakes up haha.
Make sure that you have an effective solder sucker.
One other thing with bent pins, I found it easier to first do a pass without the solder sucker. Just use soldering iron to liquify the tin, and use tweezers to bend the pin upright while tin is in liquid form. After that first pass, go about it the usual way.
So, the more I read this thread, the more I think I am going to forget about Matias' (Quiet Click) switches and instead join the old ALPS keyboards mutilation gang.That's a lot of questions.
My first task for this would be to figure out what ALPS switches I would like. I remember I like the keyboards with those SGI Indigo machines, but I remember trying out a Matias Apple keyboard and I believe I hated it. Something has to do with the switches themselves as well as the keyboard housing and material of key caps.
And there is no ALPS switches tester around in my city.
I know that I don't like switches that are too loud so that I may disturb people, e.g. those in the library or in an office. There are three major categories: clicky, tactile, and tactile dampened, and my related questions are:
How loud are the clicky ALPS? As loud as Cherry MX blue?
How quiet are the tactile ALPS? Are they noticeably louder than then tactile dampened? Will they be disturbing for people and colleagues around?
How would you compare the noise level of tactile dampened ALPS to say, Matias Quiet-Click or HHKB Type-S or Realforce 87U 'Silent'?
There are eight types of tactile and tactile dampened ALPS:
Alps SKCM Brown, Alps SKCM Cream, Alps SKCM Orange, Alps SKCM Salmon, Alps SKCM Black, Alps SKCM Cream Damped, Alps SKCM Green, Alps SKCM White Damped
Are there any of these ALPS that I should particularly avoid? For example, a few posts lowly evaluated the Alps SKCM Black.
Not all of them are listed (on Deskthority) with spring leaf weight ratings, which one are relatively heavy? I like heavier switches, but I also like smooth switches.
I know there is a whole list of keyboard on the wiki, but to cut the search.
What are some of the more common keyboards I can find to harvest switches?
I may be getting the Alpha64 from Hasu as well - I hope that it is compatible with some of those GH80 cases. I'm not even thinking about the key caps now - I like colorways, but it is still hopeless for ALPS right now in terms of color choice. Thanks in advance.
So, the more I read this thread, the more I think I am going to forget about Matias' (Quiet Click) switches and instead join the old ALPS keyboards mutilation gang.SKCM Cream = best
My first task for this would be to figure out what ALPS switches I would like. I remember I like the keyboards with those SGI Indigo machines, but I remember trying out a Matias Apple keyboard and I believe I hated it. Something has to do with the switches themselves as well as the keyboard housing and material of key caps.
And there is no ALPS switches tester around in my city.
I know that I don't like switches that are too loud so that I may disturb people, e.g. those in the library or in an office. There are three major categories: clicky, tactile, and tactile dampened, and my related questions are:
How loud are the clicky ALPS? As loud as Cherry MX blue?
How quiet are the tactile ALPS? Are they noticeably louder than then tactile dampened? Will they be disturbing for people and colleagues around?
How would you compare the noise level of tactile dampened ALPS to say, Matias Quiet-Click or HHKB Type-S or Realforce 87U 'Silent'?
There are eight types of tactile and tactile dampened ALPS:
Alps SKCM Brown, Alps SKCM Cream, Alps SKCM Orange, Alps SKCM Salmon, Alps SKCM Black, Alps SKCM Cream Damped, Alps SKCM Green, Alps SKCM White Damped
Are there any of these ALPS that I should particularly avoid? For example, a few posts lowly evaluated the Alps SKCM Black.
Not all of them are listed (on Deskthority) with spring leaf weight ratings, which one are relatively heavy? I like heavier switches, but I also like smooth switches.
I know there is a whole list of keyboard on the wiki, but to cut the search.
What are some of the more common keyboards I can find to harvest switches?
I may be getting the Alpha64 from Hasu as well - I hope that it is compatible with some of those GH80 cases. I'm not even thinking about the key caps now - I like colorways, but it is still hopeless for ALPS right now in terms of color choice. Thanks in advance.
@pabile I found out that there is usually not enough soldering tin to transfer the heat to it if you go the other way round. Granted, I don't have the best soldering iron, but I found it easier to do it the way I described. Also, watch out that tweezers or whatever you use for bending pins bag is not sharp/hard as you can scratch the PCB. Usually it shouldn't do any damage, but it's better to be safe then sorry.
MoreSKCM Cream = bestSo, the more I read this thread, the more I think I am going to forget about Matias' (Quiet Click) switches and instead join the old ALPS keyboards mutilation gang.
My first task for this would be to figure out what ALPS switches I would like. I remember I like the keyboards with those SGI Indigo machines, but I remember trying out a Matias Apple keyboard and I believe I hated it. Something has to do with the switches themselves as well as the keyboard housing and material of key caps.
And there is no ALPS switches tester around in my city.
I know that I don't like switches that are too loud so that I may disturb people, e.g. those in the library or in an office. There are three major categories: clicky, tactile, and tactile dampened, and my related questions are:
How loud are the clicky ALPS? As loud as Cherry MX blue?
How quiet are the tactile ALPS? Are they noticeably louder than then tactile dampened? Will they be disturbing for people and colleagues around?
How would you compare the noise level of tactile dampened ALPS to say, Matias Quiet-Click or HHKB Type-S or Realforce 87U 'Silent'?
There are eight types of tactile and tactile dampened ALPS:
Alps SKCM Brown, Alps SKCM Cream, Alps SKCM Orange, Alps SKCM Salmon, Alps SKCM Black, Alps SKCM Cream Damped, Alps SKCM Green, Alps SKCM White Damped
Are there any of these ALPS that I should particularly avoid? For example, a few posts lowly evaluated the Alps SKCM Black.
Not all of them are listed (on Deskthority) with spring leaf weight ratings, which one are relatively heavy? I like heavier switches, but I also like smooth switches.
I know there is a whole list of keyboard on the wiki, but to cut the search.
What are some of the more common keyboards I can find to harvest switches?
I may be getting the Alpha64 from Hasu as well - I hope that it is compatible with some of those GH80 cases. I'm not even thinking about the key caps now - I like colorways, but it is still hopeless for ALPS right now in terms of color choice. Thanks in advance.
No, they also made undamped versions which are closely related to SKCM orange and salmon.MoreSKCM Cream = bestSo, the more I read this thread, the more I think I am going to forget about Matias' (Quiet Click) switches and instead join the old ALPS keyboards mutilation gang.
My first task for this would be to figure out what ALPS switches I would like. I remember I like the keyboards with those SGI Indigo machines, but I remember trying out a Matias Apple keyboard and I believe I hated it. Something has to do with the switches themselves as well as the keyboard housing and material of key caps.
And there is no ALPS switches tester around in my city.
I know that I don't like switches that are too loud so that I may disturb people, e.g. those in the library or in an office. There are three major categories: clicky, tactile, and tactile dampened, and my related questions are:
How loud are the clicky ALPS? As loud as Cherry MX blue?
How quiet are the tactile ALPS? Are they noticeably louder than then tactile dampened? Will they be disturbing for people and colleagues around?
How would you compare the noise level of tactile dampened ALPS to say, Matias Quiet-Click or HHKB Type-S or Realforce 87U 'Silent'?
There are eight types of tactile and tactile dampened ALPS:
Alps SKCM Brown, Alps SKCM Cream, Alps SKCM Orange, Alps SKCM Salmon, Alps SKCM Black, Alps SKCM Cream Damped, Alps SKCM Green, Alps SKCM White Damped
Are there any of these ALPS that I should particularly avoid? For example, a few posts lowly evaluated the Alps SKCM Black.
Not all of them are listed (on Deskthority) with spring leaf weight ratings, which one are relatively heavy? I like heavier switches, but I also like smooth switches.
I know there is a whole list of keyboard on the wiki, but to cut the search.
What are some of the more common keyboards I can find to harvest switches?
I may be getting the Alpha64 from Hasu as well - I hope that it is compatible with some of those GH80 cases. I'm not even thinking about the key caps now - I like colorways, but it is still hopeless for ALPS right now in terms of color choice. Thanks in advance.
SKCM Cream == Cream dampen ?
are they better than orange?It's pretty subjective but the general consensus is "yes."
Are there even enough people with both in representative condition for a general consensus to form, though? :pare they better than orange?It's pretty subjective but the general consensus is "yes."
This is a valid point that I hadn't considered... the consensus among those with both in representative condition is "yes."Are there even enough people with both in representative condition for a general consensus to form, though? :pare they better than orange?It's pretty subjective but the general consensus is "yes."
wonder who that is??? <3Are there even enough people with both in representative condition for a general consensus to form, though? :pare they better than orange?It's pretty subjective but the general consensus is "yes."
regardless I will be trying them soon I think. Someone is lending me a 60%with them :-* :-*
are they better than orange?It's pretty subjective but the general consensus is "yes."
beer >> cream alps.****er's drunk again
Sooooo is SKCL Striped Amber in a SGI a good idea? Popped one in and felt nice.
Sooooo is SKCL Striped Amber in a SGI a good idea? Popped one in and felt nice.
Hmmm, it's a solid case, but nothing nifty. Why not hold out for a Wang or something else a bit more exotic? You could always swap the blues out of your Packard. Nah, that wouldn't be right.
I feel like they deserve something a little different, but I'm not sure what to suggest.
I'm fond of the SGI because it's straight ANSI and I like the keycaps and case treatment. It's not the most durable board in the world-- probably should get a Northgate for that-- but I would not consider it incompetent at all.
are they better than orange?It's pretty subjective but the general consensus is "yes."
I like orange alps better than the undampened creams (ivory). BTW I just got an email that Cindy's store has newly stocked AEKs with oranges.
Same, would also be my first real ALPS board, but shipping is ~$60 which is just ridiculous.are they better than orange?It's pretty subjective but the general consensus is "yes."
I like orange alps better than the undampened creams (ivory). BTW I just got an email that Cindy's store has newly stocked AEKs with oranges.
They've been in stock a while, 8 complete ones 2 with 2 missing caps each last i checked.
I've been eyeing them up, Harvest the oranges and the caps and make something custom. Maybe...
I am typing this on my non-ADB NeXT with non-damped cream Alps and dye-sub PBT alphas from an SGI Granite.Is your creams board in good condition? With Alps even a small amount of dirt or dust tends to impact keyfeel dramatically. Also the tactile weight of the switch doesn't necessarily coincide with the amount of work needed to press a switch.
Again, I like the form factor and layout of the board (although I am using a Hasu converter programmed for a HHKB-like layout). However, the board has some negatives. For one thing, it pings. The case shows fingerprints and smudges, and the stock caps do not seem to hide shine well. I am not fond of the non-detachable coiled cable -- I would consider putting the converter inside the case and installing a panel-mount micro-USB connector for a detachable micro-USB cable.
I sort of like the cream switches, but although they are rated at the same actuation force as blue Alps in the DT wiki, they feel heavier to me. I almost don't notice the tactile bump, but maybe it registers subconsciously because I seem to type better on cream Alps then I do on linear Alps such as greens or yellows. Nevertheless, I think I need both tactile and auditory feedback. I still prefer clicky Alps (blue or white; I haven't tried Amber).
I am typing this on my non-ADB NeXT with non-damped cream Alps and dye-sub PBT alphas from an SGI Granite.MoreAgain, I like the form factor and layout of the board (although I am using a Hasu converter programmed for a HHKB-like layout). However, the board has some negatives. For one thing, it pings. The case shows fingerprints and smudges, and the stock caps do not seem to hide shine well. I am not fond of the non-detachable coiled cable -- I would consider putting the converter inside the case and installing a panel-mount micro-USB connector for a detachable micro-USB cable.
I sort of like the cream switches, but although they are rated at the same actuation force as blue Alps in the DT wiki, they feel heavier to me. I almost don't notice the tactile bump, but maybe it registers subconsciously because I seem to type better on cream Alps then I do on linear Alps such as greens or yellows. Nevertheless, I think I need both tactile and auditory feedback. I still prefer clicky Alps (blue or white; I haven't tried Amber).
This statement is totally obscure to people outside the keyboard geek community.
I feel ashamed when I see a grown up man say things like "...a sharp drop at the actuation point at around 2/3 - 3/4 way down the..."
Don't you have anything better to do with your life than yammering away on the minute details of a keyboard? I have both an M and an F that I picked up at goodwill for nothing 15 years ago and for the first time yesterday I googled about them and found 'enthusiast' (here an euphemism for retarded) websites where idiots bounce off the walls telling each other about the orgasms per second they have when using them. And 'using' is an overstatement with 90% of those morons. Most are busy opening them, cleaning the last atom of dirt off them, 'restoring' what doesn't need any restoration, 'upgrading', thinking of names for them, 'modding', taking photos, showing them off, in general jerking off about the clicky sensations and the superb accuracy of their typing and other general uber-dorkiness. What I never found there was anything useful to do with them, ie. actually program a computer.
Go type 'messenger lectures' in youtube and see what smart people look like, then kill yourself disassembling your One True Keyboard(TM) for the nth time and swallowing all the buckling springs.
And then mail one of your remaining model Fs to me.
I don't say this often... but that is truly "special." Well, I guess I know what my weekend plans are :PThis statement is totally obscure to people outside the keyboard geek community.Not actually about Alps switches at all, but -MoreQuote from: Anonymous CowardI feel ashamed when I see a grown up man say things like "...a sharp drop at the actuation point at around 2/3 - 3/4 way down the..."
Don't you have anything better to do with your life than yammering away on the minute details of a keyboard? I have both an M and an F that I picked up at goodwill for nothing 15 years ago and for the first time yesterday I googled about them and found 'enthusiast' (here an euphemism for retarded) websites where idiots bounce off the walls telling each other about the orgasms per second they have when using them. And 'using' is an overstatement with 90% of those morons. Most are busy opening them, cleaning the last atom of dirt off them, 'restoring' what doesn't need any restoration, 'upgrading', thinking of names for them, 'modding', taking photos, showing them off, in general jerking off about the clicky sensations and the superb accuracy of their typing and other general uber-dorkiness. What I never found there was anything useful to do with them, ie. actually program a computer.
Go type 'messenger lectures' in youtube and see what smart people look like, then kill yourself disassembling your One True Keyboard(TM) for the nth time and swallowing all the buckling springs.
And then mail one of your remaining model Fs to me.
I don't say this often ... but that is truly "special."
My NeXT board is in good condition. However, the switches exhibit a slight degree of binding, which is elicited by pressing down on the upper-right corner of the keys, especially keys larger than 1.00x. Likewise, my Northgate Omnikey 101 with white Alps has a bit of binding, but my Leading Edge DC-3014 with blue Alps has no binding at all. Normally, I do not press keys in the upper-right corner; I just use this as a qualitative test of the condition of Alps switches.In my experience with dozens of Alps keyboards, I've found Alps keyboards are almost without exception NOT in representative condition if they show ANY of the following symptoms:
@Chyros: Could it be that you have already bought up all the "representative" Alps keyboards? The rest of us have to muddle through with less-than-pristine Alps boards. ;)The boards I tend to get from the recycling centre, bizarrely, are almost always either super horrible or super clean. There are tons of Alps boards sitting in a box on a shelf or something in all kinds of places, I'm sure there's plenty more fish in the sea ;) .
There seem to be exceptions to the pristine rule. I have now bought 5 Northgate Omnikey 101 white Alps boards to refurbish. Based on outward appearance, including the amount of corrosion on the plate, the one that was in the worst shape turned out to be the best with respect to the feel of the switches. It seems reasonable that the thing that matters is the condition of the switches themselves, in which case I would agree with Chyros.It sounds like all five of your OmniKeys are in non-representative condition if I'm brutally honest :p .
I don't say this often ... but that is truly "special."
It is probably at least half a decade old, possibly pre-dating "r00tw0rm", but still a gem.
The original post may be lost in the mists of history, but there was speculation that "anonymous coward" was actually Ripster.
that post is so trollish it's funny
@Chyros: 5/5 "non-representative" seems like quite a run of bad luck, but on the other hand, 5 out of the total universe of Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI boards is admittedly a small sample. Even so, I am much happier typing on my crippled Alps boards than any Cherry mx board I have ever tried. Moreover, when I take an Alps board through my complete refurbishing process, it ends up performing quite well, with no chattering and little or no binding even when a large key is pressed on the extreme upper right corner.Out of over two dozen AT101s (I lost count ages ago) I've had, no more than four, maybe five at a stretch were representative - and three of those were NIB :P .
Nope, none of that is an exaggeration. If you've tried the genuine article, used ones simply don't even come close, the difference is staggering.@Chyros: 5/5 "non-representative" seems like quite a run of bad luck, but on the other hand, 5 out of the total universe of Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI boards is admittedly a small sample. Even so, I am much happier typing on my crippled Alps boards than any Cherry mx board I have ever tried. Moreover, when I take an Alps board through my complete refurbishing process, it ends up performing quite well, with no chattering and little or no binding even when a large key is pressed on the extreme upper right corner.Out of over two dozen AT101s (I lost count ages ago) I've had, no more than four, maybe five at a stretch were representative - and three of those were NIB :P .
hyperbole
@Chyros: Perhaps "representative" is a misnomer. Statistically, it would seem that if only 4 to 5 out of > 24 keyboards were at a high standard, then this is not representative of the population of available boards. The boards that tend to represent the population would be the 19 to 20 out of > 24.By "representative" I mean "representative of what it would be like when it was new". Which, considering most of these boards are 20-30 years old, isn't easily achieved. The problem with NOT taking only the best (approx. NOS condition, switch-wise) keyboards as the standard is that it implies that those keyboards then somehow become "better than normal" which is just weird. It also belies the fact that there's quite a lot wrong with most Alps boards - it's kind of unfair to pretend Alps products were like that out of the factory, not to mention it encourages people to buy crappy-condition Alps boards, which simply doesn't give you the best experience :) .
We might call the boards that represent the very best examples something like "Grade A" boards, which, in your case, might be the upper ~20% or so.
@Chyros: I have yet to try a NIB or NOS Alps board, but I've reconditioned some that give me an excellent typing experience compared to all the keyboards with which I am familiar (e.g. other boards with the following switch categories: other Alps, Matias, Cherry mx and clones, RAL, NMB Space Invaders, IBM Model M, IBM Model F, and Topre). Among these, it seems that Alps are quite sensitive to the ravages of time, and so I am very glad that in addition to Alps, I like other types of vintage switches (especially IBM Model F) and some contemporary switches (especially Topre). Maybe someday I will get my hands on a NIB/NOS Alps board, at which time I can recalibrate!Yes, Alps' sensitivity is by far their biggest shortfall, unfortunately... You can usually get Alps switches in better condition with some cleaning and maintenance, but I've yet to get one back up to anything near NOS status. If I ever go to a meetup I'll bring some nice Alps boards along so people can try them out ^^ .
My Packard Bell wasn't NIB or anything but with no corrosion on a still factory shiny plate and no yellowing it is still a joy to type on.
One thing though. A couple of the keys like forward slash, star and minus and insert especially seem to be better than the rest. They are much more bassy and deep. Although I don't believe this is caused by condition since other keys that are barely used like pause or F9 feel just like commonly used keys like A.
Alps wasn't perfect at producing the damn things either. Some switches might be better than others not by condition but by manufacturing.
Here's a video
I think Ultrasonic cleaning is the future as well.
the differences in those Blues is due to manufacturing
Got a steal on a Z150 with green alps and if I hadn't already tried some in pristine condition like the board Alienman sold me, there is no way I would hold them in the same regard. The broken Apple IIC looked awful, but the switches are in great shape. Also, maybe others can vouch for this, but as a result of the 5140 screen effectively shielding the keyboard from light and dust the browns seem to always be in very good condition.
Just saying, NOS blues are amazing :p ... if you can get the board to work :'(
man I had a zenith something or other that was so ****ty. that one you got was great. shame about the pcb :|
Crosspost for fun!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PeiQABo.jpg)
My favorite new Alps board. :P
Why not hold out for a Wang or something else a bit more exotic? I feel like they deserve something a little different, but I'm not sure what to suggest.
Why not hold out for a Wang or something else a bit more exotic? I feel like they deserve something a little different, but I'm not sure what to suggest.
So I got the perfect exotic you were looking for E3E. A Zenith 163-73 I bought from Wingpad!
It's the perfect candidate since it only comes with SKCL Yellow. Has that buzzer which would still make logical sense since I'm swapping using SKCL, plus in cap leds! I do hate how the led's are green not red but luckily I have 3 original led SKCL Green's from my old Z-150 so it's perfect for it. Zenith build quality as well. The main difference though between the ZKB-2 and this is that it has a plastic backplate and alps dyesubs. A fair trade off I suppose.
Plus it has the SKCL GRAY I need. It's a win-win-win!
Sweet man, do it! Slap in the Striped Ambers, use SKCL Grey as the space bar switch (or Amber, either way haha), and it'll be fantastic. It'd fit those switches well.
Yeah, I was thinking about buying a bunch of 40W Black Lights off of eBay from China and setting them up in my closet in an array to retr0brite this and the Wang I have but I figured it would just be easier to sell them. I've done a ton of cleaning work on this board already, believe it or not. There was just way more left than I wanted to do so it was time to sell it. I really think the beeper in this board is cute, though. It pleases me greatly. Also, I can't wait to see pictures of it with SKCL Ambers in it :)Sweet man, do it! Slap in the Striped Ambers, use SKCL Grey as the space bar switch (or Amber, either way haha), and it'll be fantastic. It'd fit those switches well.Yea. I'm excited to have a board with a beeper and in cap lock lights again, makes it so interesting. Wasn't able to take advantage of those in my Z-150 since the board wouldn't work on Linux without a USB converter and that didn't allow the leds to work :( It needs good cleaning and a retrobright badly. Unfortunately I ran out and it's fall/winter right now so idk when I will have a chance to do it.
Was actually planning to just use a normal SKCL Striped Amber for the spacebar. The Grey is for the switch tester.
Yeah, I was thinking about buying a bunch of 40W Black Lights off of eBay from China and setting them up in my closet in an array to retr0brite this and the Wang I have but I figured it would just be easier to sell them. I've done a ton of cleaning work on this board already, believe it or not. There was just way more left than I wanted to do so it was time to sell it. I really think the beeper in this board is cute, though. It pleases me greatly. Also, I can't wait to see pictures of it with SKCL Ambers in it :)Sweet man, do it! Slap in the Striped Ambers, use SKCL Grey as the space bar switch (or Amber, either way haha), and it'll be fantastic. It'd fit those switches well.Yea. I'm excited to have a board with a beeper and in cap lock lights again, makes it so interesting. Wasn't able to take advantage of those in my Z-150 since the board wouldn't work on Linux without a USB converter and that didn't allow the leds to work :( It needs good cleaning and a retrobright badly. Unfortunately I ran out and it's fall/winter right now so idk when I will have a chance to do it.
Was actually planning to just use a normal SKCL Striped Amber for the spacebar. The Grey is for the switch tester.
I have too many boards right now anyway and I still need to find a candidate for all of the SKCM Brown switches I have sitting around. If I manage to kick a keyset GB off the ground I'll have a bit more flexibility but it's going to be tough either way.
What did it look like when you found it?It was more internal than external. The plate was pretty dirty and some of the switches weren't in great shape. I opened up about 20 of the worst of them to clean them by hand but since you're replacing them that doesn't really matter to you that much :))
How nice are those Zenith dye-subs? I kinda like the novelty of the smallass enter.
P.S. Wingpad, I am all in on that keyset of yours :D
@Mattr If those SKCL yellows ever need a home in a nice new keyboard, feel free to PM me!
you are very happy then :) always happy to see thatI think we're both very happy :)) This is going to pay for the powder-coating job for my F107.
you are very happy then :) always happy to see thatI think we're both very happy :)) This is going to pay for the powder-coating job for my F107.
Looks like everybody is going to be happy! Are you going to paint it the original color or something different?You're helping too, haha. I went with a shade of gray close to Industrial Gray. It's done but there have been some issues with billing and getting it shipped but it should be here soon. Anyway, I think I might get kicked for mentioning buckling springs here. Quick! I need to hide my Model M and grab my Omnikey! Blue Alps FTW, tooooootally.
How nice are those Zenith dye-subs? I kinda like the novelty of the smallass enter.
P.S. Wingpad, I am all in on that keyset of yours :D
@Mattr If those SKCL yellows ever need a home in a nice new keyboard, feel free to PM me!
They're Alps dyesubs just like the 5140 or SGI/Early Dell AT101's. Yea I don't mind the layout of the Zenith at all.
Looks like i'll be PMing you once I desolder the board ;)
you are very happy then :) always happy to see that
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rjRUiHY.jpg)
Thank you for letting me try this mike52787!
what do you mean by that?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rjRUiHY.jpg)
Thank you for letting me try this mike52787!
Did mike not want to use the original layout for the bottom row?
what do you mean by that?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rjRUiHY.jpg)
Thank you for letting me try this mike52787!
Did mike not want to use the original layout for the bottom row?
pretty sure he means the AEK bottom row. I asked Mike and he just took an alps KBP and swapped the PCB and switches, but not the plate.
My bottom row is as follows: alt,win,fn,space,ctrl,win,alt,fnwhat do you mean by that?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rjRUiHY.jpg)
Thank you for letting me try this mike52787!
Did mike not want to use the original layout for the bottom row?
pretty sure he means the AEK bottom row. I asked Mike and he just took an alps KBP and swapped the PCB and switches, but not the plate.
Oh, I see. I've been contemplating which bottom row to use in my first Alps board; have decided on something similar to that.
My bottom row is as follows: alt,win,fn,space,ctrl,win,alt,fnwhat do you mean by that?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rjRUiHY.jpg)
Thank you for letting me try this mike52787!
Did mike not want to use the original layout for the bottom row?
pretty sure he means the AEK bottom row. I asked Mike and he just took an alps KBP and swapped the PCB and switches, but not the plate.
Oh, I see. I've been contemplating which bottom row to use in my first Alps board; have decided on something similar to that.
I was thinking more about the discrepancies between the switch plates and the sliders. I wonder if taking off the rubber dampeners, would dampened cream be as good as cream.Nope, wouldnt be anything close to the same. The tactile leaves, switch plates and springs are all different. Dampened cream's tactility is much more "bumpy" compared to SKCM cream's crisp tactility. Damoened cream has short white switchplates, and SKCM cream has tall grey switchplates. The slider material is also different, as skcm cream falls into the early timeline that has dry lubricant on the sliders. Dampened cream sladers are made of a slipperier plastic.
I have bought a Packard Bell T8023 at Taobao recently. This is a lovely keyboard and I cleaned it today, but wait...
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj99/2914/20161106_190725_zps8hclkr0x.jpg~original) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/2914/media/20161106_190725_zps8hclkr0x.jpg.html)
I know the difference between blue and white alps are quite small sometimes, such as blue alps with ALPS logo top-housing or white switchplate instead of grey switchplate,
but these are not white switchplate only, these are white switchplate with white alps leaves!
A Japanese found it also.
Hah, that's funny, I recorded a very relevant video to this phenomenon very recently xD .I have bought a Packard Bell T8023 at Taobao recently. This is a lovely keyboard and I cleaned it today, but wait...
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj99/2914/20161106_190725_zps8hclkr0x.jpg~original) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/2914/media/20161106_190725_zps8hclkr0x.jpg.html)
I know the difference between blue and white alps are quite small sometimes, such as blue alps with ALPS logo top-housing or white switchplate instead of grey switchplate,
but these are not white switchplate only, these are white switchplate with white alps leaves!
A Japanese found it also.
Wow, short switch plates too? It seems like blue Alps and white Alps had a very small period of crossover where the earliest white Alps was very close to blue Alps and the latest blues, as shown in your example, are similar to whites. Very peculiar.
You grabbed that one up quick. I noticed that one on TaoBao.
I think that theyre short switchplates, Ive had white switchplate blue alps and the color of the plastic on the switchplate is different than the normal short switchplate plastic. Those dont really look like tall white switchplates.Hah, that's funny, I recorded a very relevant video to this phenomenon very recently xD .I have bought a Packard Bell T8023 at Taobao recently. This is a lovely keyboard and I cleaned it today, but wait...
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj99/2914/20161106_190725_zps8hclkr0x.jpg~original) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/2914/media/20161106_190725_zps8hclkr0x.jpg.html)
I know the difference between blue and white alps are quite small sometimes, such as blue alps with ALPS logo top-housing or white switchplate instead of grey switchplate,
but these are not white switchplate only, these are white switchplate with white alps leaves!
A Japanese found it also.
Wow, short switch plates too? It seems like blue Alps and white Alps had a very small period of crossover where the earliest white Alps was very close to blue Alps and the latest blues, as shown in your example, are similar to whites. Very peculiar.
You grabbed that one up quick. I noticed that one on TaoBao.
I'm not sure those are short switchplates though. They look long to me.
They're definitely short switch plates as you can see them raised up over the bottom housing's "floor" there's no way that'd happen with a long switch plate unless the switch was desoldered and the plates got pulled up during switch top removal. The long switch plates are flush with the bottom.Yes they are short switchplate.
It is really difficult for me to understand the point of trying out keyboards and switches for those who can't touch type, like the one in the video above.
They're definitely short switch plates as you can see them raised up over the bottom housing's "floor" there's no way that'd happen with a long switch plate unless the switch was desoldered and the plates got pulled up during switch top removal. The long switch plates are flush with the bottom.Yes they are short switchplate.
Meanwhile, the coding on the top-housing is different too. Only one letter at right hand corner without number.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj99/2914/20161106_214721_zpsyi2jv7rq.jpg~original) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/2914/media/20161106_214721_zpsyi2jv7rq.jpg.html)
The funniest thing is that the key feel and sound is same as normal blue alps rather than white alps.
It is really difficult for me to understand the point of trying out keyboards and switches for those who can't touch type, like the one in the video above.
I hear you there, though for me, owning nice old and custom keyboards is a high incentive for me to improve my technique. I have some lazy habits with typing; I'm not 100% perfect with my form, but I do like practicing with proper form.They're definitely short switch plates as you can see them raised up over the bottom housing's "floor" there's no way that'd happen with a long switch plate unless the switch was desoldered and the plates got pulled up during switch top removal. The long switch plates are flush with the bottom.Yes they are short switchplate.
Meanwhile, the coding on the top-housing is different too. Only one letter at right hand corner without number.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj99/2914/20161106_214721_zpsyi2jv7rq.jpg~original) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/2914/media/20161106_214721_zpsyi2jv7rq.jpg.html)
The funniest thing is that the key feel and sound is same as normal blue alps rather than white alps.
I think the click leaves are probably the biggest factor to feel. I noticed this when swapping blue leaves into other switches. That's certainly the most special component of a blue Alps switch. Lubed sliders and such can be found in other switches, but that click leaf is unique.
Over time, every single component pretty much was changed between white and blue Alps. It was a step-by-step process though, and those must be among the youngest blue Alps I've seen (although I've even seen branded ones). Similarly there are very young white Alps that have more in common with blue Alps.It is really difficult for me to understand the point of trying out keyboards and switches for those who can't touch type, like the one in the video above.
I hear you there, though for me, owning nice old and custom keyboards is a high incentive for me to improve my technique. I have some lazy habits with typing; I'm not 100% perfect with my form, but I do like practicing with proper form.They're definitely short switch plates as you can see them raised up over the bottom housing's "floor" there's no way that'd happen with a long switch plate unless the switch was desoldered and the plates got pulled up during switch top removal. The long switch plates are flush with the bottom.Yes they are short switchplate.
Meanwhile, the coding on the top-housing is different too. Only one letter at right hand corner without number.
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj99/2914/20161106_214721_zpsyi2jv7rq.jpg~original) (http://s270.photobucket.com/user/2914/media/20161106_214721_zpsyi2jv7rq.jpg.html)
The funniest thing is that the key feel and sound is same as normal blue alps rather than white alps.
I think the click leaves are probably the biggest factor to feel. I noticed this when swapping blue leaves into other switches. That's certainly the most special component of a blue Alps switch. Lubed sliders and such can be found in other switches, but that click leaf is unique.
But the click leaves are very close to white alps's. The only difference is the "bump" is slightly flatter than the blue's. I have tried to swap the leaves to a blue alps and the key feel is nearly the same.
As the component are nearly the same, the different feel of blue alps with white alps may only caused by the spring?
I have bought a Packard Bell T8023 at Taobao recently. This is a lovely keyboard and I cleaned it today, but wait...Nice find!
I know the difference between blue and white alps are quite small sometimes, such as blue alps with ALPS logo top-housing or white switchplate instead of grey switchplate,
but these are not white switchplate only, these are white switchplate with white alps leaves!
A Japanese found it also.
Good luck! A USBified Xerox would be awesome! The layout isn't terrible either.
I wonder if it's possible to transplant a older Zenith logo off a discarded Z-150 case or something onto a newer tree logo keyboard.I don't see why not, as long as the label is the same size.
I wonder if it's possible to transplant a older Zenith logo off a discarded Z-150 case or something onto a newer tree logo keyboard.
I wonder if it's possible to transplant a older Zenith logo off a discarded Z-150 case or something onto a newer tree logo keyboard.
I mean, I gave Proximity my black label from the Z-150 so he could put it on his modded AT version.
If you mean for the 163-73, then I'm not sure about that. Not sure if the dimensions are the same.
@Chyros: I have yet to try a NIB or NOS Alps board, but I've reconditioned some that give me an excellent typing experience compared to all the keyboards with which I am familiar (e.g. other boards with the following switch categories: other Alps, Matias, Cherry mx and clones, RAL, NMB Space Invaders, IBM Model M, IBM Model F, and Topre). Among these, it seems that Alps are quite sensitive to the ravages of time, and so I am very glad that in addition to Alps, I like other types of vintage switches (especially IBM Model F) and some contemporary switches (especially Topre). Maybe someday I will get my hands on a NIB/NOS Alps board, at which time I can recalibrate!
Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.
I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.
In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.
It'll be thrown in some alu 60% case, not sure yet, but that is good to hear :)In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.
The mounts on the original plate are different than normal 60% plates, so good luck. I dont believe it was meant to be put in another case. I would show pics of what I mean, but I leant it to alienman to try it out.It'll be thrown in some alu 60% case, not sure yet, but that is good to hear :)In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.
If I remember correctly, it works, you just cannot use all 5-6 screws, you have to leave out a few.The mounts on the original plate are different than normal 60% plates, so good luck. I dont believe it was meant to be put in another case. I would show pics of what I mean, but I leant it to alienman to try it out.It'll be thrown in some alu 60% case, not sure yet, but that is good to hear :)In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.
Ill have to look. there are studs on the plate which are meant to be screwed into from the bottom of the case, unlike any other60% design. I have the original pcb at home, I can check if there are normal mounting holes in it or just the original ones.If I remember correctly, it works, you just cannot use all 5-6 screws, you have to leave out a few.The mounts on the original plate are different than normal 60% plates, so good luck. I dont believe it was meant to be put in another case. I would show pics of what I mean, but I leant it to alienman to try it out.It'll be thrown in some alu 60% case, not sure yet, but that is good to hear :)In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.
Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?Here is what I did with one of my V60 boards with Matias Click switches:
Wow that is pretty cool, that might actually work as well. I could test a few switches first and if it seems fine I could just go that route.Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?Here is what I did with one of my V60 boards with Matias Click switches:
(Attachment Link)
After hybridizing the switches, I put on dye-sub PBT alphanumeric caps from an IBM 5140:
(Attachment Link)
The hybrid "MatiaBlue" switches have the Matias Click housings, but the sliders, return springs, and click leaves are Blue Alps.
Here is a video with sound comparisons to an identical V60 with Matias Click switches:
The hybridized switches have taken on some of the characteristics of Blue Alps. They are lighter and quieter than Matias Clicks. The procedure is tedious, but with the V60, it might be easier than desoldering the stock switches and soldering iin the new switches.
I have also tried putting a V60MTS-C into a TEX aluminum case, but it ruined the sound. In the aluminum case, the switches lost the resonant sounding board of the hollow plastic and ended up sounding like Cherry blues. I also tried the aluminum case with the "MatiaBlue" switches -- same result. The aluminum case looks nice, but it spoils the sound.
BTW, older V60MTS boards only have one hole for mounting in a standard 60% aluminum case. Newer ones have 3 holes, which seems sufficient, but again, I did not like the effect the aluminum case had on the sound of the keyboard.
The red Esc keys from SP look fine to me on the V60 in its stock case -- it is difficult to notice the difference in profile:
(Attachment Link)
My V60 was with Matias Click switches. The MatiaBlue mod should work starting with Matias Quiet switches as well. I am not sure about Matias Quiet Linear or Fukka switches.Matiblu sounds better :)
BTW, I am thinking of an alternative name for the hybrid switch, such as "Matiblu" (inspired by Malibu). ;)
I am looking to buy an ultrasonic cleaner to restore a few of my boards. Any recommendations or things that I should look out for?
Don't want to remove the dry lube on some of them, but they are already scratchy. If the tops themselves aren't already shot, I may experiment with some Molybdenum Disulfide on them. Worth it to lube the springs?
My Alps switches by condition:
Blue • NOS, No need to clean
Amber, Brown, Orange • Very Good, No need to clean
Ivory, Green • Mostly Good
Yellow • Expecting to be Sub-par
Salmon (may no keep) • Awful
Also, any considerable difference in SKCL Yellow and SKCL Green tops? Probably going to swap them.
Imo mixing SKCM Blue (or any non common Alps switch) with Matias is morally wrong.
Imo mixing SKCM Blue (or any non common Alps switch) with Matias is morally wrong.
Wat this?
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/sop/5862639081.html
kinda looks like a Focus 2001 clone
Wat this?
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/sop/5862639081.html
The Granite case is awesome. IMO it's begging for a cut-down mod. I was reeeaally close to doing one myself, but I instead went with cutting down the plate to a standard 60% with an Alps64 PCB. The standard PCB for it was too much of a hassle for me to deal with. The plate however is great- winkeyless and stepped caps, and very thick and weighty. It came out well, and would recommend it highly as a fun project.
I'd say to do what I did (60%), or to buy a TKL PCB and cut it down to that. The full size is nice, yeah, and worth preserving in its glory, but not if it's just going to languish. Better to use it than keep it cooped up.
Not sure about what PCB would fit in, but I had mapped out the cut-lines on my Granite case that would accommodate a TKL or "60 + Fn" layout. It's a bit of creative cutting, but you can work your way around cutting out anything important (including the label). I would only try it if I had access to a dremel, which I (at the moment) do not. The PCB to use, not sure. It'd probably need to add in aftermarket supports to fit into a standard PCB, like a B.87 or similar.The Granite case is awesome. IMO it's begging for a cut-down mod. I was reeeaally close to doing one myself, but I instead went with cutting down the plate to a standard 60% with an Alps64 PCB. The standard PCB for it was too much of a hassle for me to deal with. The plate however is great- winkeyless and stepped caps, and very thick and weighty. It came out well, and would recommend it highly as a fun project.
I'd say to do what I did (60%), or to buy a TKL PCB and cut it down to that. The full size is nice, yeah, and worth preserving in its glory, but not if it's just going to languish. Better to use it than keep it cooped up.
Can such mod be done? Cutting it to a 60% seems challenging, would love to see an example like that. :eek:
Not sure about what PCB would fit in, but I had mapped out the cut-lines on my Granite case that would accommodate a TKL or "60 + Fn" layout. It's a bit of creative cutting, but you can work your way around cutting out anything important (including the label). I would only try it if I had access to a dremel, which I (at the moment) do not. The PCB to use, not sure. It'd probably need to add in aftermarket supports to fit into a standard PCB, like a B.87 or similar.The Granite case is awesome. IMO it's begging for a cut-down mod. I was reeeaally close to doing one myself, but I instead went with cutting down the plate to a standard 60% with an Alps64 PCB. The standard PCB for it was too much of a hassle for me to deal with. The plate however is great- winkeyless and stepped caps, and very thick and weighty. It came out well, and would recommend it highly as a fun project.
I'd say to do what I did (60%), or to buy a TKL PCB and cut it down to that. The full size is nice, yeah, and worth preserving in its glory, but not if it's just going to languish. Better to use it than keep it cooped up.
Can such mod be done? Cutting it to a 60% seems challenging, would love to see an example like that. :eek:
Read about the great project by E3E on a hot-swappable Duck Eagle PCB based Alps board.
And then I realized there are only a handful of PCB offerings for Alps switches, not to mention the possibility of plates and cases.
What will be the possibility to build a 75% Alps board completed with case and key set?
Do I have to source for Korea's Duck0113 again?
the octagon 1 doesn't support alps?
Read about the great project by E3E on a hot-swappable Duck Eagle PCB based Alps board.
And then I realized there are only a handful of PCB offerings for Alps switches, not to mention the possibility of plates and cases.
What will be the possibility to build a 75% Alps board completed with case and key set?
Do I have to source for Korea's Duck0113 again?
:)
Unfortunately, we still have no offerings for 75% Alps keyboards. It's been something I've been looking out for for a while, but alas, nothing so far. The closest thing to an Alps 75% we have is the VE.A.
Read about the great project by E3E on a hot-swappable Duck Eagle PCB based Alps board.
And then I realized there are only a handful of PCB offerings for Alps switches, not to mention the possibility of plates and cases.
What will be the possibility to build a 75% Alps board completed with case and key set?
Do I have to source for Korea's Duck0113 again?
:)
Unfortunately, we still have no offerings for 75% Alps keyboards. It's been something I've been looking out for for a while, but alas, nothing so far. The closest thing to an Alps 75% we have is the VE.A.
Your building log is an asset to GH for Alps beginners.
Please keep us posted as I may miss details of many IC / GB out there.
After I've harvested enough Alps switches from the great boards of the old days, I want to build a 75% hot-swappable as 75% is my most comfortable layout, coming from a ThinkPad. Will definitely build a 60% for sure - I have been thinking about Alps64 PCB by Hasu but I really hope he can add LED support to the board soon, Hasu's probably super busy with many things though.
MoreRead about the great project by E3E on a hot-swappable Duck Eagle PCB based Alps board.
And then I realized there are only a handful of PCB offerings for Alps switches, not to mention the possibility of plates and cases.
What will be the possibility to build a 75% Alps board completed with case and key set?
Do I have to source for Korea's Duck0113 again?
:)
Unfortunately, we still have no offerings for 75% Alps keyboards. It's been something I've been looking out for for a while, but alas, nothing so far. The closest thing to an Alps 75% we have is the VE.A.
Your building log is an asset to GH for Alps beginners.
Please keep us posted as I may miss details of many IC / GB out there.
After I've harvested enough Alps switches from the great boards of the old days, I want to build a 75% hot-swappable as 75% is my most comfortable layout, coming from a ThinkPad. Will definitely build a 60% for sure - I have been thinking about Alps64 PCB by Hasu but I really hope he can add LED support to the board soon, Hasu's probably super busy with many things though.
I'm glad it's such an asset to you! If you need help with hot swap modifying a PCB in the future, I'm always here to help.
Yes, what you described would be awesome though, a hot-swappable 75% with backlighting. Most people who design Alps PCBs don't focus on the backlighting aspect. The only PCBs that have it across the keys are PCBs that also have Cherry MX compatibility.
So it's not even really intended for Alps, but it can be made to work for it. The other main issue with backlighting is that you will almost certainly need to drill LED holes in the switches for the legs to pass through since linear Alps did not come standard with the holes on the bottom housing for LEDs. Matias is an exception since it has transparent housings, so that is the easier route if you want backlighting, but you would still need a proper PCB for it. The Infinity v2 PCB is an option there for 60%s.
It's a process, but it really makes you appreciate the keybaord even more so after it's done and functional!
Matias's switches are transparent, so the LEDs can just be mounted on the surface of PCB below the switch? I'm talking about LEDs because I'm thinking about the Green Alps.
This should be the poster child for dirty Alps.
Is that out of a dc-2014? Were the switches clean atleast?
This should be the poster child for dirty Alps.
Nasty! My photo might be the "dirty but still redeemable - with some work" version.
This should be the poster child for dirty Alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nXIEENO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/muW3a54.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r4msq8E.jpg)
This should be the poster child for dirty Alps.
Nasty! My photo might be the "dirty but still redeemable - with some work" version.
This should be the poster child for dirty Alps.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nXIEENO.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/muW3a54.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r4msq8E.jpg)
These were pretty ****:
This should be the poster child for dirty Alps.Yeah, I don't think that those would be.... representative xD .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nXIEENO.jpg)
They're like homeless Alps switches.Kicked to the Chinese curb so to speak? Lol. If these switches could talk they would have a story to tell indeed.
Yeah, I don't think that those would be.... representative xD .They will be after ultrasonic lol :p
That said, I once found an AT102W with fluff everywhere reaching all the way to the top of the housing... AND it had drowned xD .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAI-BASIC-FOUR-Information-Rare-Vintage-Keyboard-4313/191995061736?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39007%26meid%3D5371405d9e37443ba19472b7b4b472bd%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D112166410300 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAI-BASIC-FOUR-Information-Rare-Vintage-Keyboard-4313/191995061736?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39007%26meid%3D5371405d9e37443ba19472b7b4b472bd%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D112166410300)
What do you guys think? Im thinking SKCL greens or something foam and foil.
Good to know for the future. Interesting board! not sure if there are any converters available, do you know what protocol it uses?http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAI-BASIC-FOUR-Information-Rare-Vintage-Keyboard-4313/191995061736?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39007%26meid%3D5371405d9e37443ba19472b7b4b472bd%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D112166410300 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAI-BASIC-FOUR-Information-Rare-Vintage-Keyboard-4313/191995061736?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39007%26meid%3D5371405d9e37443ba19472b7b4b472bd%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D112166410300)
What do you guys think? Im thinking SKCL greens or something foam and foil.
I bought this board because I couldn't find any information on it and I was curious about it. It has some pretty nice dyesub PBT caps and Fujitsu Leaf Spring Clicky 3rd generation switches. It has a very soft click that is really quiet and the travel distance seems shorter than I'm used to.. I'm going to see if I can fix the stabilizer on it and get it working:D
with fluff everywhere reaching all the way to the top of the housing...
Hahaha, no, unfortunately it wasn't FOOD that was in there xD .
with fluff everywhere reaching all the way to the top of the housing...
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=board%20chow (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=board%20chow)
@ctm: Is the spacebar 6.25x? Does it have dual receptacles on each side for Cherry-mount stabilizer inserts? Which positions are you using -- those closest to the center or those farther away? I would recommend using the mounts that are a greater distance from the center and using a stabilizer wire to match. Then, lube the stabilizer clips and inserts with grease. You can also put some adhesive foam strips inside the spacebar to deaden it, and put thin foam strips on the plate where the spacebar inserts hit the plate. Finally, if you don't mind modding a switch, you can put a slider from a Matias Quiet switch in the spacebar switch -- this will make the spacebar much quieter if the original switch is not already damped.Thanks a lot. My spacebar is a 6.25x Taihao with Cherry mount on sides. I am using the the further Cherry stab insert and I have lubed the wire. My biggest problem is not the sound but the degree it can rotate. I think this might be due to the lack of plunger like in vintage alps.
Good to know for the future. Interesting board! not sure if there are any converters available, do you know what protocol it uses?http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAI-BASIC-FOUR-Information-Rare-Vintage-Keyboard-4313/191995061736?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39007%26meid%3D5371405d9e37443ba19472b7b4b472bd%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D112166410300 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAI-BASIC-FOUR-Information-Rare-Vintage-Keyboard-4313/191995061736?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39007%26meid%3D5371405d9e37443ba19472b7b4b472bd%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D112166410300)
What do you guys think? Im thinking SKCL greens or something foam and foil.
I bought this board because I couldn't find any information on it and I was curious about it. It has some pretty nice dyesub PBT caps and Fujitsu Leaf Spring Clicky 3rd generation switches. It has a very soft click that is really quiet and the travel distance seems shorter than I'm used to.. I'm going to see if I can fix the stabilizer on it and get it working:D
I got my Zenith from Wingpad today and I put a ton of hours into it. Cleaning and swapping. Came out really well. Just needs retrobright and it's done. Used a baking powder + vinegar solution on the case to clean it since it's textured and normal methods aren't very effective at removing grime from the crevices. You can see in the before/after pics how well the baking soda did. After cleaning I then swapped in the SKCL Striped Amber's and Green's. Types beautifully now. The one snag I ran into is with the led's. Turns out in the Z-150 they have them oriented in the opposite direction compared to the ZKB-2/163-73 so at first none of the led's worked since they were backwards lol.
PicsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/KB7FutS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QZqdDLB.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uZGmV84.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YbkD8xN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iFVS6Pt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/E43fQM3.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Pox9ICF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e7hpL6p.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6JPM5oH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vKclKnH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P2DYybo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yXHqHK1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qOJDdBo.jpg)
I love yellow alps
Favorite alps:
I got my Zenith from Wingpad today and I put a ton of hours into it. Cleaning and swapping. Came out really well. Just needs retrobright and it's done. Used a baking powder + vinegar solution on the case to clean it since it's textured and normal methods aren't very effective at removing grime from the crevices. You can see in the before/after pics how well the baking soda did. After cleaning I then swapped in the SKCL Striped Amber's and Green's. Types beautifully now. The one snag I ran into is with the led's. Turns out in the Z-150 they have them oriented in the opposite direction compared to the ZKB-2/163-73 so at first none of the led's worked since they were backwards lol.That board is looks great, going to copy that baking soda vingar method! Rock solid case with dye-subs, a BEEPer and the alps that are among the most obscure in the world. Whats not to like. I hope you find one of those badass lightning Zenith logos, makes you wonder why they switched it to a lame ol' tree.
PicsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/KB7FutS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QZqdDLB.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uZGmV84.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YbkD8xN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iFVS6Pt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/E43fQM3.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Pox9ICF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e7hpL6p.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6JPM5oH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vKclKnH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P2DYybo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yXHqHK1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qOJDdBo.jpg)
That board is looks great, going to copy that baking soda vingar method! Rock solid case with dye-subs, a BEEPer and the alps that are among the most obscure in the world. Whats not to like. I hope you find one of those badass lightning Zenith logos, makes you wonder why they switched it to a lame ol' tree.Thanks. It's really fun to use. I've been wanting a solid full size linear board for a while. Yea hopefully I can find an old logo, it would really improve the aesthetic. IRL the tree logo isn't super terrible but I don't like the font on the 'zenith'. Looks like a toy.
I got my Zenith from Wingpad today and I put a ton of hours into it. Cleaning and swapping. Came out really well. Just needs retrobright and it's done. Used a baking powder + vinegar solution on the case to clean it since it's textured and normal methods aren't very effective at removing grime from the crevices. You can see in the before/after pics how well the baking soda did. After cleaning I then swapped in the SKCL Striped Amber's and Green's. Types beautifully now. The one snag I ran into is with the led's. Turns out in the Z-150 they have them oriented in the opposite direction compared to the ZKB-2/163-73 so at first none of the led's worked since they were backwards lol.That's that I already cleaned a layer of grime off of it in the first place... At least you didn't have to clean the caps and the plate because I already did those, haha. Looks really nice, though. Hope you enjoy it... if not, I'd love to have a go on it again now ;)
PicsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/KB7FutS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QZqdDLB.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uZGmV84.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YbkD8xN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iFVS6Pt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/E43fQM3.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Pox9ICF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e7hpL6p.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6JPM5oH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vKclKnH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P2DYybo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yXHqHK1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qOJDdBo.jpg)
That's that I already cleaned a layer of grime off of it in the first place... At least you didn't have to clean the caps and the plate because I already did those, haha. Looks really nice, though. Hope you enjoy it... if not, I'd love to have a go on it again now ;)That must of been the top layer lol. Cleaning the case actually still took a lot of time/effort. The texture makes it a pita to get a deep clean like I did. Retrobright will make it look factory fresh ;)
With the finding of SKCL Striped Amber, now nobody else can have a truly complete switch tester :(
*Zenith*I love my ZKB-2R. A NIB one is one of the few boards I'm still on the lookout for.
Starting to get used to the Zenith. Took some time coming from tactile/clicky Alps.The repeat function kills it for me. It's too annoying. Otherwise it would've been acceptable for me.
Can't decide on whether or not to use the buzzer. Right now I'm not because I want to hear the lovely sound of Alps on PBT caps.
@E3E: I agree with you about the limited utility of switch testers. I find that I need the context of a complete keyboard in order to form a full impression of a given type of switch. Moreover, the sound and feel of the switches varies from one keyboard to another and from one region to another on the same board. That said, it is impractical to test a wide variety switches on complete keyboards, and so a switch tester provides a starting point for comparing multiple types of switches with one another.Yeah, absolutely agreed. I try holding out on switches I haven't tried in a full board because it's so easy to get a wrong picture from a loose switch or even a whole keypad full. You have to use them, type on them to really know. But for comparison reasons, a switch tester like this can be quite useful indeed.
@E3E: I agree with you about the limited utility of switch testers. I find that I need the context of a complete keyboard in order to form a full impression of a given type of switch. Moreover, the sound and feel of the switches varies from one keyboard to another and from one region to another on the same board. That said, it is impractical to test a wide variety switches on complete keyboards, and so a switch tester provides a starting point for comparing multiple types of switches with one another.
@E3E: I agree with you about the limited utility of switch testers. I find that I need the context of a complete keyboard in order to form a full impression of a given type of switch. Moreover, the sound and feel of the switches varies from one keyboard to another and from one region to another on the same board. That said, it is impractical to test a wide variety switches on complete keyboards, and so a switch tester provides a starting point for comparing multiple types of switches with one another.
Switch testers are fascinating kits to have.
However, the keyboard experience is holistic just like how you enjoy a piece of steak in a restaurant: the steak itself (non-GMO certified vs organic vs Japanese Kobe), the seasoning, the preparation (Chinese restaurant, Italian restaurant, etc) , the serving, the environment and your mood.
P.s. I'm a vegetarian.
Now I have to think about lubing the Alps switches on the newly arrived SGI Granite (luckily everything in really good condition) because the Alps SKCM creme dampened switches (or are they white instead??) are not as smooth as what I remember them to be.
they could be dampened whites? I think. I've only ever seen dampened whites/creams in the four or five SGI's that I've had
More@E3E: I agree with you about the limited utility of switch testers. I find that I need the context of a complete keyboard in order to form a full impression of a given type of switch. Moreover, the sound and feel of the switches varies from one keyboard to another and from one region to another on the same board. That said, it is impractical to test a wide variety switches on complete keyboards, and so a switch tester provides a starting point for comparing multiple types of switches with one another.
Sir, have you been drinking tonight?
Switch testers are fascinating kits to have.
However, the keyboard experience is holistic just like how you enjoy a piece of steak in a restaurant: the steak itself (non-GMO certified vs organic vs Japanese Kobe), the seasoning, the preparation (Chinese restaurant, Italian restaurant, etc) , the serving, the environment and your mood.
P.s. I'm a vegetarian.
Now I have to think about lubing the Alps switches on the newly arrived SGI Granite (luckily everything in really good condition) because the Alps SKCM creme dampened switches (or are they white instead??) are not as smooth as what I remember them to be.
they could be dampened whites? I think. I've only ever seen dampened whites/creams in the four or five SGI's that I've had
I've investigated by opening up one of them - they're without clits, so probably white instead of cream, damped.
And these SKCM white (bamboo?) damped are so scratchy - more scratchy than my PLUM Topre-clone 35g.
Has someone compared damped cream vs damped white? Are they very different?
I'm trying to look for that cushioned bottoming out and smooth tactile bump experience again - without so much noise.
Dampened whites feel better to me hacing compared with two boards in similar good condition. Dampened whites aren't too loud to me, but that is a preference.
Funny I think dampened white more than regular white, but I prefer regular creams to the dampened ones
Very Good Switch Opener:BetterShow Image(http://images.revlon.com/~/media/images/revlon/products/beautytools/p_tools_eyes_compacttweezerslant.ashx)
any guesses on these? They look a bit pale to be skcm greens... from a Chicony KB-5181The slider on them isn't green btw, it's yellowed blue plastic xD . Like Matt said they're Montereys, often confused for SKCM blue. Both are Alps mount. Great switches actually.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KhS5flm.jpg)
I've had great results with creamsicles- cream sliders and bottom case, orange springs tactile leaf, and top case. They're a bit rougher than stock oranges, but they're fully damped. Creams are a bit odd- you can feel the 2nd tactile event quite clearly. Not really my cup of tea.@E3E: I agree with you about the limited utility of switch testers. I find that I need the context of a complete keyboard in order to form a full impression of a given type of switch. Moreover, the sound and feel of the switches varies from one keyboard to another and from one region to another on the same board. That said, it is impractical to test a wide variety switches on complete keyboards, and so a switch tester provides a starting point for comparing multiple types of switches with one another.
Switch testers are fascinating kits to have.
However, the keyboard experience is holistic just like how you enjoy a piece of steak in a restaurant: the steak itself (non-GMO certified vs organic vs Japanese Kobe), the seasoning, the preparation (Chinese restaurant, Italian restaurant, etc) , the serving, the environment and your mood.
P.s. I'm a vegetarian.
Now I have to think about lubing the Alps switches on the newly arrived SGI Granite (luckily everything in really good condition) because the Alps SKCM creme dampened switches (or are they white instead??) are not as smooth as what I remember them to be.
they could be dampened whites? I think. I've only ever seen dampened whites/creams in the four or five SGI's that I've had
I've investigated by opening up one of them - they're without slits, so damped white instead of damped cream.
And these SKCM white (bamboo?) damped are so scratchy - more scratchy than my PLUM Topre-clone 35g and quite a bit rougher than my taste prefers.
Has someone compared damped cream vs damped white? Are they very different?
I'm trying to look for that cushioned bottoming out and smooth tactile bump experience again - without so much noise.
@E3E: I agree with you about the limited utility of switch testers. I find that I need the context of a complete keyboard in order to form a full impression of a given type of switch. Moreover, the sound and feel of the switches varies from one keyboard to another and from one region to another on the same board. That said, it is impractical to test a wide variety switches on complete keyboards, and so a switch tester provides a starting point for comparing multiple types of switches with one another.
Switch testers are fascinating kits to have.
However, the keyboard experience is holistic just like how you enjoy a piece of steak in a restaurant: the steak itself (non-GMO certified vs organic vs Japanese Kobe), the seasoning, the preparation (Chinese restaurant, Italian restaurant, etc) , the serving, the environment and your mood.
P.s. I'm a vegetarian.
Now I have to think about lubing the Alps switches on the newly arrived SGI Granite (luckily everything in really good condition) because the Alps SKCM creme dampened switches (or are they white instead??) are not as smooth as what I remember them to be.
they could be dampened whites? I think. I've only ever seen dampened whites/creams in the four or five SGI's that I've had
I've investigated by opening up one of them - they're without slits, so damped white instead of damped cream.
And these SKCM white (bamboo?) damped are so scratchy - more scratchy than my PLUM Topre-clone 35g and quite a bit rougher than my taste prefers.
Has someone compared damped cream vs damped white? Are they very different?
I'm trying to look for that cushioned bottoming out and smooth tactile bump experience again - without so much noise.
SKCM white Alps in good condition in a solid chassis like a Northgate make for a delightful typing experience. If I were to improve upon this, I would consider putting SKCM blue Alps in a Northgate (or finding a Gold Label Northgate Ultra with blue Alps, but I prefer the ANSI layout in a Northgate Omnikey 101).Gold label ultras don't exist, only 102s. On the topic of switch swapping omnikeys, It is definitely the most solid alps chassis available. a true tank. makes any switch sound and feel better with the right caps of course.
makes any switch sound and feel better with the right caps of course.
SGI, wang, at101, or 5140 are easily the best commonly available alps caps. I don't particularly like the tai hao doubleshot caps that come on northgate boards either. The only really good doubleshot alps caps are IBM multistation caps, or alps electric made doubleshots.
... today I was testing a SIIG Suntouch Jr. ... an Ortek MCK-84 ...
@menuhin: Yes, I was initially attracted to the form factor of the various 84-key compact keyboards such as the Ortek MCK-84. However, I have become addicted to the HHKB layout, and so these 75% keyboards do not work well for me. I prefer 60%, but I would rather use an ANSI TKL or full-size than the various keyboards in the twilight zone between 60% and TKL.
On another topic, not long ago I got a Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI keyboard with SKCM white Alps, which I set up in my home office. I liked it so much that I decided to get another one for work. The second one seemed to be in better overall shape than the first one, but I didn't like the sound and feel of it as much as the first Northgate. Today I took a closer look at the switches. The preferred Northgate has "pine" white Alps (with slits in the top housing), whereas the less-preferred one has "bamboo" white Alps (without slits).
I had not realized that there was such a palpable difference between pine and bamboo white Alps, but it really seems to be true!
Alps-switch keyboards have changed my mind about doubleshot ABS and even rimless pad-printed ABS keycaps. Part of it is the crisp high-contrast appearance of the legends. However, part of it is the sound when the switches, chassis, and caps are well matched.
For example, today I was testing a SIIG Suntouch Jr. with pine white Alps and doubleshot ABS caps. The sound is sublime. Much nicer than a very similar board with respect to form factor, layout and construction -- an Ortek MCK-84 with bamboo white Alps and pad-printed ABS caps. The Ortek is not bad at all, it's just that the SIIG is on a higher level.
However, after the surface texture of new ABS caps wears down a bit, they have a clammy feel. I would much rather have the dry feel of PBT caps. I am even willing to tolerate the Italic font on SGI caps in order to have that PBT feel.
BTW, a test that usually works for me to tell ABS from PBT is to apply medium pressure to a keycap with a fingertip and drag my finger toward me. ABS grips the fingertip, which then "stutters" across the surface of the cap, whereas PBT does not grip and the fingertip glides across the cap without stuttering. However, this test did not work with some Acer keycaps, which have a pumice-like texture akin to some of the Chinese PBT keycap sets.
...but I'm still interested in trying out the dampened cream SKCM: even I saw its force curve has two bumps and users in here or DT said they can feel two distinctive tactile events instead of just one - similar for Matias QC they said.That's been my experience. Especially with the stock 70g springs, the 2nd event is very noticeable. That said, it isn't all bad. Lightening the springs (using orange springs for example) makes the bumps very smooth, with the second being much cleaner and actually enjoyable. I really like the 2nd alert. If you're a light typer, then it can help to avoid bottoming out as well, a it provided the end-of-stroke resistance that is missing in a lot of other switches with large tactile drop-offs like Alps generally do.
My first Alps build. Donor board from aek2 for the switch and keycaps, plate from lasergist.
I want to click the link "Reply to moderator", and say, "a forum member murdered yet another vintage Alps board!"
Yeah, even I wouldn't object to taking AEKIIs apart xD .
I want to click the link "Reply to moderator", and say, "a forum member murdered yet another vintage Alps board!"
Serial numbers on AEK go up to 1M, and there are a lot more AEK2s than that, so this is a species that is not threatened.
Yeah, even I wouldn't object to taking AEKIIs apart xD .
I want to click the link "Reply to moderator", and say, "a forum member murdered yet another vintage Alps board!"
Serial numbers on AEK go up to 1M, and there are a lot more AEK2s than that, so this is a species that is not threatened.
Well, they're the best keyboards APPLE made, that's for sure xD .Yeah, even I wouldn't object to taking AEKIIs apart xD .
I want to click the link "Reply to moderator", and say, "a forum member murdered yet another vintage Alps board!"
Serial numbers on AEK go up to 1M, and there are a lot more AEK2s than that, so this is a species that is not threatened.
Almost everyone can tell from your videos that you're particularly critical towards Apple's products and Jobs' practices of making his products exclusive and incompatible to the other machines.
I have nothing that I want to defend them, but there're still lots of Apple fanboys and some shouting AEK or AEKII are "best keyboard ever made" (in the universe?).
Well, they're the best keyboards APPLE made, that's for sure xD .Yeah, even I wouldn't object to taking AEKIIs apart xD .
I want to click the link "Reply to moderator", and say, "a forum member murdered yet another vintage Alps board!"
Serial numbers on AEK go up to 1M, and there are a lot more AEK2s than that, so this is a species that is not threatened.
Almost everyone can tell from your videos that you're particularly critical towards Apple's products and Jobs' practices of making his products exclusive and incompatible to the other machines.
I have nothing that I want to defend them, but there're still lots of Apple fanboys and some shouting AEK or AEKII are "best keyboard ever made" (in the universe?).
Anyway, you're right, I disapprove of many of their practices. That said, it's not because of that that I think they're OK to scrap. They're good, but not exactly rare or exotic. I love the Dell Bigfoot, but you wouldn't believe how many crappy ones I've taken apart ;) .
I really love old Alps keyboards and will often defend them publicly from disassembly, but only cool, rare, interesting ones.
Well, they're the best keyboards APPLE made, that's for sure xD .
My first Alps build. Donor board from aek2 for the switch and keycaps, plate from lasergist.
I want to click the link "Reply to moderator", and say, "a forum member murdered yet another vintage Alps board!" :p
A nice build indeed.
What PCB are you using and what is the case?
My 60% build for Alps would ideally allow the SGI Granite set (space bar 6.25u?) and the AEK set (space bar 6.5u on your board?). However, I don't know how to do that.
There's a build log for hotswappable mod by E3E so I can think about having top row to have interchangeable HHKB and ANSI layout at the backspace location.
You are quite correct. It uses a normal winkeyless layout. The only real quirk with the SGI cap set is the stepped caps lock.My first Alps build. Donor board from aek2 for the switch and keycaps, plate from lasergist.
I want to click the link "Reply to moderator", and say, "a forum member murdered yet another vintage Alps board!" :p
A nice build indeed.
What PCB are you using and what is the case?
My 60% build for Alps would ideally allow the SGI Granite set (space bar 6.25u?) and the AEK set (space bar 6.5u on your board?). However, I don't know how to do that.
There's a build log for hotswappable mod by E3E so I can think about having top row to have interchangeable HHKB and ANSI layout at the backspace location.
I believe that SGI granite uses a 7u spacebar
Funny you should say that, I really like my M0116 to be honest. I was thinking of doing a video about it sometime near the end of the year. I agree the layout is quite workable, definitely better than TKL. But still, a fullsize... And the AEK could come with oranges, too, don't forget ;) .Well, they're the best keyboards APPLE made, that's for sure xD .
Thems fightin' words :P
M0116 is sublime. It provides a full numpad, arrow keys (all in a row), a latching caps lock, and the Control key to the left of A.
Plus, Orange Alps. Positively dreamy.
Funny you should say that, I really like my M0116 to be honest. I was thinking of doing a video about it sometime near the end of the year. I agree the layout is quite workable, definitely better than TKL. But still, a fullsize... And the AEK could come with oranges, too, don't forget ;) .Well, they're the best keyboards APPLE made, that's for sure xD .
Thems fightin' words :P
M0116 is sublime. It provides a full numpad, arrow keys (all in a row), a latching caps lock, and the Control key to the left of A.
Plus, Orange Alps. Positively dreamy.
Very true! I've been meaning to look at getting a AEK for the caps, as long as the profile matched the M0116's. If they had a stepped caps/control (1.75u), then I could throw them on my SGI board. Their profile is pretty neat for a "flat" layout- all of the alphas (the middle rows) are all the same profile, while the # row is raised up with an extended stem, while the bottom row flattens out. The angle of the contour is also very comparable to that of IBM's caps, standing them up next to each other, just a bit shorter. The face, however, is a bit broader. And, up top, there's the magic button! Such a nice set.Funny you should say that, I really like my M0116 to be honest. I was thinking of doing a video about it sometime near the end of the year. I agree the layout is quite workable, definitely better than TKL. But still, a fullsize... And the AEK could come with oranges, too, don't forget ;) .Well, they're the best keyboards APPLE made, that's for sure xD .
Thems fightin' words :P
M0116 is sublime. It provides a full numpad, arrow keys (all in a row), a latching caps lock, and the Control key to the left of A.
Plus, Orange Alps. Positively dreamy.
My first Alps build. Donor board from aek2 for the switch and keycaps, plate from lasergist.
I want to click the link "Reply to moderator", and say, "a forum member murdered yet another vintage Alps board!" :p
A nice build indeed.
What PCB are you using and what is the case?
My 60% build for Alps would ideally allow the SGI Granite set (space bar 6.25u?) and the AEK set (space bar 6.5u on your board?). However, I don't know how to do that.
There's a build log for hotswappable mod by E3E so I can think about having top row to have interchangeable HHKB and ANSI layout at the backspace location.
Could someone please explain the difference(s) between "pine" and "bamboo" Alps switches? I know about the slits and longer tabs in the top switch housing of pine switches, but are there other differences as well?There can be, but that's not what pine and bamboo refer to; they refer only to the slits.
Could someone please explain the difference(s) between "pine" and "bamboo" Alps switches? I know about the slits and longer tabs in the top switch housing of pine switches, but are there other differences as well?During the transition, I suspect there was a change in the material used. Not sure about the validity of that, but there is definitely a difference.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/H2LCx2J.jpg?1)
The NeXts have SKCM cream, the best alps switch ever imoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/H2LCx2J.jpg?1)
WHAT THE ...???!!!
You're going to destroy all of them today? Although I'm not a full size keyboard person, but I still want to pay my respects to these nice poor vintage.
What's inside the two NeXT?
I'm looking for some cream dampened by the way. I'd rather dismantle a yellowed ADB Apple keyboard if I have choose where to harvest them from.
Could someone please explain the difference(s) between "pine" and "bamboo" Alps switches? I know about the slits and longer tabs in the top switch housing of pine switches, but are there other differences as well?
Docutech envy :). Where did caps form that SGI end up?
sold the caps. everything here is going to be desoldered today
Docutechs dont use SKCM blues, they use SKCM greens. There is no real point to keeping docutechs together, there is no way to convert them, the protocol hasnt been deciphered yet. I dont see the problem with desoldering vintage boards.Docutech envy :). Where did caps form that SGI end up?
sold the caps. everything here is going to be desoldered today
I actually have some blues on their way to me, do you just want the blues from the Docutech?
Your post will be a strictly forbidden post on DT :p with all the Europeans who treasure the heritage and history. Sadly, I don't run a keyboard museum.
The NeXts have SKCM cream, the best alps switch ever imo
Docutechs dont use SKCM blues, they use SKCM greens. There is no real point to keeping docutechs together, there is no way to convert them, the protocol hasnt been deciphered yet. I dont see the problem with desoldering vintage boards.Docutech envy :). Where did caps form that SGI end up?
sold the caps. everything here is going to be desoldered today
I actually have some blues on their way to me, do you just want the blues from the Docutech?
Your post will be a strictly forbidden post on DT :p with all the Europeans who treasure the heritage and history. Sadly, I don't run a keyboard museum.
<snip>And the Italic font!
<snip>
... The only real quirk with the SGI cap set is the stepped caps lock.
I actually quite like the italic font. Its a subjective thing I think.<snip>And the Italic font!
<snip>
... The only real quirk with the SGI cap set is the stepped caps lock.
You're destroying the Docutech too? E3E kinda set up a nature preserve for those where they can roam free lol. What are you going to do with the caps/switches?The NeXts have SKCM cream, the best alps switch ever imo
They are good indeed. SKCM Blue, SKCM Cream and SKCL Striped Amber are the best 3 Alps switches ever from all the switch types.
yeah the board is ISO so whatever. saving the switches for now just desoldering since i have time for once. also it's missing a foot on the case which is also yellowed and beat
yeah the board is ISO so whatever. saving the switches for now just desoldering since i have time for once. also it's missing a foot on the case which is also yellowed and beat
Yeah, if mine's cases were beat up past a certain point or had a broken part, I wouldn't hesitate scrapping them. Fortunately/unfortunately, they don't.
Also, the protocol isn't completely alien. It's been worked out on bitsavers. It's just that a converter hasn't been made for it yet. I'm hoping Wingpad can help with that, and if THAT doesn't work out, then I'll talk to Hasu about a converter.
watDocutech envy :). Where did caps form that SGI end up?
sold the caps. everything here is going to be desoldered today
Back to the pine/bamboo thing. Today I took a closer look at the switches in my Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI boards with white Alps switches. One has a noticeably nicer sound and feel than the other and is generally quieter. It turns out that my favorite one has pine switches (with slits in the top switch housings) and the less-favored one has bamboo switches (without slits in the top switch housings). It really does make a difference!Yes, it's really quite significant, isn't it? There's quite a few myths floating around the community, but that one is definitely not one of them. I'm not sure it's actually due to the slits themselves, but at the least they are a good indicator of something else being different.
The bases of SKCM Damped Creams are different. The little blocks on the bottom if the inside of the switch, where the sliders contact when it bottoms out, is a bit widened.Could someone please explain the difference(s) between "pine" and "bamboo" Alps switches? I know about the slits and longer tabs in the top switch housing of pine switches, but are there other differences as well?
I have a similar question:
Are the base housing of all Alps SKCL and Alps SKCM switches the same? How about Matias's switches' base housing, are they also compatible / the same in terms of the structure?
Because it may save me some work of doing the tedious hot-swappable PCB mod, if I can effectively just pop and swap the top housing + everything inside.
The bases of SKCM Damped Creams are different. The little blocks on the bottom if the inside of the switch, where the sliders contact when it bottoms out, is a bit widened.Could someone please explain the difference(s) between "pine" and "bamboo" Alps switches? I know about the slits and longer tabs in the top switch housing of pine switches, but are there other differences as well?
I have a similar question:
Are the base housing of all Alps SKCL and Alps SKCM switches the same? How about Matias's switches' base housing, are they also compatible / the same in terms of the structure?
Because it may save me some work of doing the tedious hot-swappable PCB mod, if I can effectively just pop and swap the top housing + everything inside.
Additionally, all short switchplate switch have little legs for the short switchplate to stand on. Without them, the switchplate would slip down into the switch.
So you have 3 different cases: Damped Creams, Short switchplate, and Long switchplate. As far as I can tell, the top cases only vary based on the pine/bamboo slits.
Just now checked my non-ADB NeXT board with undamped creams. Looks like it has the pine (with slits) top switch case -- another reason why I rather like this board.All SKCM Cream switches will have pine switch tops as they are a first gen switch. They were phased out by SKCM blacks before the changeover, hence the presence of Pine blacks in the NeXt boards.
The NeXT form factor is very much to my liking and the layout lends itself to a HHKB remapping. The only slight drawback is the case material, which is something of a smudge and fingerprint display.
I would also like to give the NeXT board a detachable cable. I am not sure if the case will accommodate putting the present design of the Hasu converter inside, but the internal wiring could bypass the connector and go directly to the converter board.
In the case of cream dampened and white dampened the switch bottom housings should be the same. As for simplified alps switches, The switchplates are different. Instead of the normal one piece switchplate we all know and love, the simplified switches have 2 cheap copper contacts. Matias uses the simplified design, hat is why it is not as good as OG alps. Simplified bottom and top housings are differed due to the change in switchplate design.The bases of SKCM Damped Creams are different. The little blocks on the bottom if the inside of the switch, where the sliders contact when it bottoms out, is a bit widened.Could someone please explain the difference(s) between "pine" and "bamboo" Alps switches? I know about the slits and longer tabs in the top switch housing of pine switches, but are there other differences as well?
I have a similar question:
Are the base housing of all Alps SKCL and Alps SKCM switches the same? How about Matias's switches' base housing, are they also compatible / the same in terms of the structure?
Because it may save me some work of doing the tedious hot-swappable PCB mod, if I can effectively just pop and swap the top housing + everything inside.
Additionally, all short switchplate switch have little legs for the short switchplate to stand on. Without them, the switchplate would slip down into the switch.
So you have 3 different cases: Damped Creams, Short switchplate, and Long switchplate. As far as I can tell, the top cases only vary based on the pine/bamboo slits.
Are base cases of cream dampened and white dampened the same?
What's "simplified" in the later Alps designs then? Mainly without the slits?
Thanks for the explanation. When I first dived into the Alps pool, I had no idea that the waters ran so deep. The evolution of Alps is intricate and fascinating.I dont particularly like the name SKCM cream, as when I am trying to
"SKCM Cream" seems to cry out for a contraction of the name to SKCream or simply Scream. Ironic, given that they are neither loud nor inherently fast. I'll have to check my typing speed on Screams vs. other switches ....
Scream it is!That's really a great name
every pin is bent
the alps gods must be trying to talk. every pin is bent on the docutech. gonna be good tims desoldering it.They're are sending a message, dont desolder, dont desolder!
Bought 61 SKCM Amber's from Digi. Gonna make a Amber/Blue Alps Focus FK-3001 masterpiece!
The alpha's will be Amber while the rest will be Blue's. This makes the Focus unique since before I had no reason to use it since I have my SKCM Blue Packard. Great use for it :)
Bought 61 SKCM Amber's from Digi. Gonna make a Amber/Blue Alps Focus FK-3001 masterpiece!Sounds like a cool board!
The alpha's will be Amber while the rest will be Blue's. This makes the Focus unique since before I had no reason to use it since I have my SKCM Blue Packard. Great use for it :)
Sounds like a cool board!Thanks, it will be. I know E3E doesn't like Amber's but in the Focus I think they will be great switch. Blue's are good choice to complement it also.
for a second i thought you meant digikey :-\ :confused:Lol you thought I bought some NOS Amber's? Lol.
I see that mix of Taihao and NeXT in there :p
Great looking board. Matches well.
SKCM Orange Apple IIC?!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/122225618304
Also found this newish reddit thread (22 days old). Guess they did have more NOS SKCM Green Chyros, but this guy paid $8 per switch (59*8=$472) :eek: Saw your comment's in that thread btw E3E. That dude is absolutely insane. That's tops those sky high prices of SKCM Blue boards from a couple months ago by plenty! Wayy off the deep end.
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/59xkg6/the_whole_industry_in_shambles_cause_i_paid_8/
SKCM Orange Apple IIC?!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/122225618304
Apple Hairpin Spring switches were used from April 1984 to August 1986 (in //cs with model number A2S4000, ROM revisions 255 and 0 (although newer ROMs can go in those)).
Alps SKCM taxi yellow switches were used from September 1986 to August 1988 (in //cs with model number A2S4100, ROM revisions 3 and 4).
Alps SKCM orange switches were used from (on the IIc line anyway, Apple certainly used them elsewhere, dating as far back to the IIGS in September 1986) September 1988 to September 1990, on the IIc Plus, model A2S4500, ROM revision 5.
Sources: http://apple2history.org/history/ah08/ and http://apple2history.org/history/ah09/ although the comments on keyswitches are from memory. (The switch to the Alps keyboard was required by the Memory Expansion system, which needed a plate mount switch to get the keyboard rigidity without compromising on clearance to the motherboard.)
Interesting. Never knew Oranges could come with them. Just the very late ones then. So SKCM Amber, Orange, and Blue could come with the IIC since there was that one replacement keyboard that had them. Blue's are probably a fluke though since it was a replacement board and Alps likely ran out of Amber's for that batch.
Here you go: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71488.0Interesting. Never knew Oranges could come with them. Just the very late ones then. So SKCM Amber, Orange, and Blue could come with the IIC since there was that one replacement keyboard that had them. Blue's are probably a fluke though since it was a replacement board and Alps likely ran out of Amber's for that batch.
I have seen a few A2S4000s with Amber alps, but didn't know any came with blues considering Apple never used them anywhere else in their lineup.
Here you go: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71488.0Interesting. Never knew Oranges could come with them. Just the very late ones then. So SKCM Amber, Orange, and Blue could come with the IIC since there was that one replacement keyboard that had them. Blue's are probably a fluke though since it was a replacement board and Alps likely ran out of Amber's for that batch.
I have seen a few A2S4000s with Amber alps, but didn't know any came with blues considering Apple never used them anywhere else in their lineup.
Those also have top logos like the Packard Bell T9's do, so it makes sense that there late in the production run.
Bought 61 SKCM Amber's from Digi. Gonna make a Amber/Blue Alps Focus FK-3001 masterpiece!
The alpha's will be Amber while the rest will be Blue's.
for a second i thought you meant digikey :-\ :confused:
Interesting. Never knew Oranges could come with them. Just the very late ones then. So SKCM Amber, Orange, and Blue could come with the IIC since there was that one replacement keyboard that had them.
Bought 61 SKCM Amber's from Digi. Gonna make a Amber/Blue Alps Focus FK-3001 masterpiece!
The alpha's will be Amber while the rest will be Blue's.
That should make for an interesting board. I thought about making variable weight clicky alps board before I tried ambers, but there is quite a difference between character of blues and ambers that I decided against it, and just put a single amber switch in a space bar position.for a second i thought you meant digikey :-\ :confused:
Me too ;DInteresting. Never knew Oranges could come with them. Just the very late ones then. So SKCM Amber, Orange, and Blue could come with the IIC since there was that one replacement keyboard that had them.
Orange's come in IIc+, which bears model number A2S4500. Not that layout on it is different than in earlier models, and matches IIgs or m0116, only without numpad.
It's the one I'm missing to complete my apples+oranges collection, but it's much more rare than regular IIc plus and also much more expensive. There's always something to want in Alps land :)
I don't have enough Amber's to fill the whole board so Blue's are the next best thing
It was more that I don't have enough Amber's to fill the whole board so Blue's are the next best thing, rather than trying to be variable weight.
Also E3E my switches are coming to you on monday :) Seems faster than usual. Ultrasonic ftw.
desoldered the Docutech. Sending it off to someone to help make a converter :thumb:
I have a set, its sorta yellowed though. Itll probably match your case.Not sure how cool you are with splitting up the set but I only need arrow keys, A, K, F, D, J and R. The rest of the key's have a normal amount of wear.
its fine with me, I already sold the numpad from that set. I dont need it anywayI have a set, its sorta yellowed though. Itll probably match your case.Not sure how cool you are with splitting up the set but I only need arrow keys, A, K, F, D, J and R. The rest of the key's have a normal amount of wear.
I would retrobright them like I did to mine :)
Also does anyone have any extra Focus caps laying around? A couple of my caps are really worn smooth.
@HPE1000: Which route you take depends upon where you are trying to go. What do you hope to achieve by swapping switches or switch parts on your V60? Are you starting with Matias Click switches in the V60? What Alps options do you have for the swappable parts in the Matias switches (slider, click/tactile leaf, return spring)?I've got an entire set of green skcl alps and I was wanting to put them into the v60 without desoldering if possible,but I didn't realize the difference just swapping the spring and slider from the skcl into the matias click switch body would have. I'll have to test this difference a bit more to decide which I prefer.
Switch Type Source
-----------------------------------------------------------------
A (Actuation) B (Actuation) C (Bottom-out)
---------------------------------------------
Amber SKCL 87.5 - 90
Amber SKCL Striped 55 55
Black SKCM 69 65
Blue SKCL 55
Blue SKCM 70 65 - 72
Brown SKCL 70
Brown SKCM 75
Cream SKCL 70 70
Cream SKCM 70
Cream SKCM Damped 69
Green SKCL 50 50 50
Green SKCL Spacebar 80
Green SKCL LED 67.5
Green SKCM 69
Grey SKCL 88
Orange SKCM 60
Pink/Salmon SKCM 65 - 70
White SKCM 69 65 65
White damped SKCM 60 60
Yellow SKCL 59 60
=====Tried to retrobright the Zenith and the Tandem caps but I ran out of daylight :(
Still had an effect at least, but have to redo it all.
Tried to retrobright the Zenith and the Tandem caps but I ran out of daylight :(
Still had an effect at least, but have to redo it all.
Could've sent those to me too! I've got a pretty good indoor setup. :P
Pine vs. Bamboo SKCM White Alps Switches in Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI Keyboards -- S/N Correlation:
Here are some S/N data on Northgate Omnikey 101 US ANSI White Alps keyboards, with an indication of whether the white Alps switches are Pine (with slits) or Bamboo (without slits):
1081779 – Pine (Slits)
1128676 – Pine (Slits)
1132628 – Pine (Slits)
1155854 – Bamboo (No Slits)
1160507 – Bamboo (No Slits)
The lower S/N numbers (presumably with an earlier date of manufacture) have the more desirable Pine switches. It appears that the transition occurred somewhere between 1132628 and 1155854, but certainly keyboards with serial numbers below 1132628 should have Pine switches.
Tried to retrobright the Zenith and the Tandem caps but I ran out of daylight :(Lol, I'm guessing that makes it impossible to retrobright anything in the UK xD .
Tried to retrobright the Zenith and the Tandem caps but I ran out of daylight :(Lol, I'm guessing that makes it impossible to retrobright anything in the UK xD .
One of my newest and most pristine Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI SKCM White Alps keyboards doesn't sound and feel quite as good as my older Omni 101s. The only difference in construction that I can find is that the newer board has "bamboo" (no slits) switches, whereas the older boards have "pine" switches (with slits in the top housings).
Therefore, I've decided to mod the bamboo switches by replacing at least the top housings with pine housings from an Orange Alps board. I am going to keep the White click leaves, but I am undecided about the other swappable components (slider and return spring).
Sliders from Orange Alps are factory-lubricated, but because the switches are old, I decided to give them a thorough cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner, which of course removes the lubricant. After doing this and looking for similarities and differences among different types of sliders that I have at hand (Blue Alps, Orange Alps, White Alps, and Matias-Click), I noticed a subjective difference in slipperiness among the sliders. By pressing a finder against the slider and pulling my finger across it, I felt more friction with the Orange and Blue sliders than with the White and Matias sliders.
However, I wanted to get some quantitative indicator of slipperiness, so I rigged up a simple experiment to measure the coefficient of static friction. This consisted of a smooth plastic ruler as an inclined plane and a second ruler clamped perpendicular to the desk. I placed the slider at a fixed spot on the plastic ruler and slowly tilted the ruler until the slider slid down the ruler. I measured the distance on the vertical ruler corresponding to when the slider broke free of friction and slid down the incline. Thus knowing two sides of a right triangle, I could calculate the angle of tilt and its tangent, which is the coefficient of static friction. I did this 5 times for each slider, calculated the mean and standard error of the friction coefficients, and plotted the results:
(Attachment Link)
I also ran one-way ANOVA and the Tukey post-hoc test to find statistically significant (p < 0.05) differences. In the above chart, if two values are significantly different from each other, they have different small letters above the bar. A lower mean value corresponds to a lower coefficient of static friction (more slippery).
The results show that Blue and Orange sliders do not differ significantly in static friction. White sliders are more slippery than either Blue or Orange, and Matias-Click sliders are the most slippery.
This was a very crude experiment and YMMV, but it showed me that my subjective qualitative impressions were validated by this rough quantitative measurement.
I am not quite sure how to interpret the results, but they might provide an explanation for why Blue and Orange Alps switches were apparently factory-lubricated.
just bought an AEK I and M0116 as well as a b stock VEA. gonna get plates and we're good
Tried to retrobright the Zenith and the Tandem caps but I ran out of daylight :(
Still had an effect at least, but have to redo it all.
Could've sent those to me too! I've got a pretty good indoor setup. :P
Lol. Just started too late in the day. I'll do it sometime this week or next week.
How are the switches going?
Haven't gotten to them just yet! Trying to get some things out of the way, but I should have them all cleaned up soon for ya. :)
So what do they look like when lubed? or is the lube only on the bottom of the slider, near the contact points of the leaf springs (ie, where the little black lube squares are on the slider)MoreOne of my newest and most pristine Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI SKCM White Alps keyboards doesn't sound and feel quite as good as my older Omni 101s. The only difference in construction that I can find is that the newer board has "bamboo" (no slits) switches, whereas the older boards have "pine" switches (with slits in the top housings).
Therefore, I've decided to mod the bamboo switches by replacing at least the top housings with pine housings from an Orange Alps board. I am going to keep the White click leaves, but I am undecided about the other swappable components (slider and return spring).
Sliders from Orange Alps are factory-lubricated, but because the switches are old, I decided to give them a thorough cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner, which of course removes the lubricant. After doing this and looking for similarities and differences among different types of sliders that I have at hand (Blue Alps, Orange Alps, White Alps, and Matias-Click), I noticed a subjective difference in slipperiness among the sliders. By pressing a finder against the slider and pulling my finger across it, I felt more friction with the Orange and Blue sliders than with the White and Matias sliders.
However, I wanted to get some quantitative indicator of slipperiness, so I rigged up a simple experiment to measure the coefficient of static friction. This consisted of a smooth plastic ruler as an inclined plane and a second ruler clamped perpendicular to the desk. I placed the slider at a fixed spot on the plastic ruler and slowly tilted the ruler until the slider slid down the ruler. I measured the distance on the vertical ruler corresponding to when the slider broke free of friction and slid down the incline. Thus knowing two sides of a right triangle, I could calculate the angle of tilt and its tangent, which is the coefficient of static friction. I did this 5 times for each slider, calculated the mean and standard error of the friction coefficients, and plotted the results:
(Attachment Link)
I also ran one-way ANOVA and the Tukey post-hoc test to find statistically significant (p < 0.05) differences. In the above chart, if two values are significantly different from each other, they have different small letters above the bar. A lower mean value corresponds to a lower coefficient of static friction (more slippery).
The results show that Blue and Orange sliders do not differ significantly in static friction. White sliders are more slippery than either Blue or Orange, and Matias-Click sliders are the most slippery.
This was a very crude experiment and YMMV, but it showed me that my subjective qualitative impressions were validated by this rough quantitative measurement.
I am not quite sure how to interpret the results, but they might provide an explanation for why Blue and Orange Alps switches were apparently factory-lubricated.
So what do they look like when lubed? or is the lube only on the bottom of the slider, near the contact points of the leaf springs (ie, where the little black lube squares are on the slider)MoreOne of my newest and most pristine Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI SKCM White Alps keyboards doesn't sound and feel quite as good as my older Omni 101s. The only difference in construction that I can find is that the newer board has "bamboo" (no slits) switches, whereas the older boards have "pine" switches (with slits in the top housings).
Therefore, I've decided to mod the bamboo switches by replacing at least the top housings with pine housings from an Orange Alps board. I am going to keep the White click leaves, but I am undecided about the other swappable components (slider and return spring).
Sliders from Orange Alps are factory-lubricated, but because the switches are old, I decided to give them a thorough cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner, which of course removes the lubricant. After doing this and looking for similarities and differences among different types of sliders that I have at hand (Blue Alps, Orange Alps, White Alps, and Matias-Click), I noticed a subjective difference in slipperiness among the sliders. By pressing a finder against the slider and pulling my finger across it, I felt more friction with the Orange and Blue sliders than with the White and Matias sliders.
However, I wanted to get some quantitative indicator of slipperiness, so I rigged up a simple experiment to measure the coefficient of static friction. This consisted of a smooth plastic ruler as an inclined plane and a second ruler clamped perpendicular to the desk. I placed the slider at a fixed spot on the plastic ruler and slowly tilted the ruler until the slider slid down the ruler. I measured the distance on the vertical ruler corresponding to when the slider broke free of friction and slid down the incline. Thus knowing two sides of a right triangle, I could calculate the angle of tilt and its tangent, which is the coefficient of static friction. I did this 5 times for each slider, calculated the mean and standard error of the friction coefficients, and plotted the results:
(Attachment Link)
I also ran one-way ANOVA and the Tukey post-hoc test to find statistically significant (p < 0.05) differences. In the above chart, if two values are significantly different from each other, they have different small letters above the bar. A lower mean value corresponds to a lower coefficient of static friction (more slippery).
The results show that Blue and Orange sliders do not differ significantly in static friction. White sliders are more slippery than either Blue or Orange, and Matias-Click sliders are the most slippery.
This was a very crude experiment and YMMV, but it showed me that my subjective qualitative impressions were validated by this rough quantitative measurement.
I am not quite sure how to interpret the results, but they might provide an explanation for why Blue and Orange Alps switches were apparently factory-lubricated.
If there really any difference between pine and bamboo tops other than the slits? The slits just serve to provide a bit of padding on the return stroke, no, so you'd expect the difference to be just in the return stroke.
Or is the opening any different? I think that Matias case tops have an expanded opening, but can't confirm.
Got my SKCM Amber's today, have a new appreciation for them. They seem less bumpy and cleaner feeling than the one in my switch tester I got from E3E a while ago.Amber alps are great, not at all a bad thing but I find they are much more tactile than they are crisp. Really interested in seeing how those keycaps turn out after retro-brighting them.
Second times a charm? :pMoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pDNeZ1r.jpg)MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/0z0kCy7.jpg)
Got my SKCM Amber's today, have a new appreciation for them. They seem less bumpy and cleaner feeling than the one in my switch tester I got from E3E a while ago.
Second times a charm? :pShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pDNeZ1r.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0z0kCy7.jpg)Haven't gotten to them just yet! Trying to get some things out of the way, but I should have them all cleaned up soon for ya. :)
Cool.
Wrapping your items to be retrobrighted in saran wrap isn't a good idea, man. I've read a lot of people who mention that causing streaking pretty easily. If the creme dries at all on the plastic, it tends to cause bleaching.Interesting. That's how i've always done it.
One of my newest and most pristine Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI SKCM White Alps keyboards doesn't sound and feel quite as good as my older Omni 101s. The only difference in construction that I can find is that the newer board has "bamboo" (no slits) switches, whereas the older boards have "pine" switches (with slits in the top housings).Hmmm, wouldn't this test negatively favour lubricated materials?
Therefore, I've decided to mod the bamboo switches by replacing at least the top housings with pine housings from an Orange Alps board. I am going to keep the White click leaves, but I am undecided about the other swappable components (slider and return spring).
Sliders from Orange Alps are factory-lubricated, but because the switches are old, I decided to give them a thorough cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner, which of course removes the lubricant. After doing this and looking for similarities and differences among different types of sliders that I have at hand (Blue Alps, Orange Alps, White Alps, and Matias-Click), I noticed a subjective difference in slipperiness among the sliders. By pressing a finder against the slider and pulling my finger across it, I felt more friction with the Orange and Blue sliders than with the White and Matias sliders.
However, I wanted to get some quantitative indicator of slipperiness, so I rigged up a simple experiment to measure the coefficient of static friction. This consisted of a smooth plastic ruler as an inclined plane and a second ruler clamped perpendicular to the desk. I placed the slider at a fixed spot on the plastic ruler and slowly tilted the ruler until the slider slid down the ruler. I measured the distance on the vertical ruler corresponding to when the slider broke free of friction and slid down the incline. Thus knowing two sides of a right triangle, I could calculate the angle of tilt and its tangent, which is the coefficient of static friction. I did this 5 times for each slider, calculated the mean and standard error of the friction coefficients, and plotted the results:
(Attachment Link)
I also ran one-way ANOVA and the Tukey post-hoc test to find statistically significant (p < 0.05) differences. In the above chart, if two values are significantly different from each other, they have different small letters above the bar. A lower mean value corresponds to a lower coefficient of static friction (more slippery).
The results show that Blue and Orange sliders do not differ significantly in static friction. White sliders are more slippery than either Blue or Orange, and Matias-Click sliders are the most slippery.
This was a very crude experiment and YMMV, but it showed me that my subjective qualitative impressions were validated by this rough quantitative measurement.
I am not quite sure how to interpret the results, but they might provide an explanation for why Blue and Orange Alps switches were apparently factory-lubricated.
so would that enter key on the zenith be known as slim ass?
@Chyros: Yes, indeed, the test I ran would "negatively favor" lubricated sliders. I should have made it clearer that I thoroughly removed the lubricant from the sliders before running the test.Ah, yeah, see, that's good. We already postulated that Alps switches to a slipperier plastic after their first-generation switches (presumably POM) to eliminate the need for lubricant. Your data would seem to corroborate this, so this is excellent.
@Chyros: Yes, indeed, the test I ran would "negatively favor" lubricated sliders. I should have made it clearer that I thoroughly removed the lubricant from the sliders before running the test.Ah, yeah, see, that's good. We already postulated that Alps switches to a slipperier plastic after their first-generation switches (presumably POM) to eliminate the need for lubricant. Your data would seem to corroborate this, so this is excellent.
Measuring actual smoothness is a bit hard though. Even with a force meter I don't think this is possible.
Looks like the server's over at Deskthority are on fire.
Also anyone got any SKCM Amber? Figure it would be better to buy/trade my way to a (mostly) full Amber Focus rather than use SKCM Blue.
@Chyros: Yes, indeed, the test I ran would "negatively favor" lubricated sliders. I should have made it clearer that I thoroughly removed the lubricant from the sliders before running the test.Ah, yeah, see, that's good. We already postulated that Alps switches to a slipperier plastic after their first-generation switches (presumably POM) to eliminate the need for lubricant. Your data would seem to corroborate this, so this is excellent.
Measuring actual smoothness is a bit hard though. Even with a force meter I don't think this is possible.
I'm sure others have tried this already, but I have tested the older sliders with acetone and they don't react to it at all. I wonder what plastic was used.
One Alps employee I talked to did mention that the sliders were "probably nylon" but he couldn't remember for sure because it had been so long ago.@Chyros: Yes, indeed, the test I ran would "negatively favor" lubricated sliders. I should have made it clearer that I thoroughly removed the lubricant from the sliders before running the test.Ah, yeah, see, that's good. We already postulated that Alps switches to a slipperier plastic after their first-generation switches (presumably POM) to eliminate the need for lubricant. Your data would seem to corroborate this, so this is excellent.
Measuring actual smoothness is a bit hard though. Even with a force meter I don't think this is possible.
I'm sure others have tried this already, but I have tested the older sliders with acetone and they don't react to it at all. I wonder what plastic was used.
If we were able to choose a polymer for keyboard switch sliders today, there are several excellent candidates, including nylon, teflon, Delrin, and ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene. Dupont makes some excellent low-friction plastics:
http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/plastics-polymers-resins/articles/low-friction-plastic.html
It would indeed be interesting to know which plastics were used in the first-generation Alps sliders and which ones are used currently in Alps and/or Matias sliders.
Polymers are getting better and better, increasingly replacing metals in various moving parts.
Soooooo... I decided to get an old board with green alps, since I want to try linears, costing about $60... Is it worth it over cherry blacks?Whatever you do, make sure it's clean. If it is, then sure! It was green Alps that got me into linear switches :) .
I'm in the process of cleaning up a Zenith 163-73 with linear Yellow Alps switches. The layout is not my favorite, but it's not too bad. The oversized Right Bracket can be remapped as Backspace and the split Right Shift makes for an ideal location for a Fn key. The keycaps on this model are nice -- dye-subbed PBT.Yeah, why not? You'll have to switch the top housings though.
What do folks here think of click-modding a Yellow Alps board? (Note that although the procedure is rather laborious, it is straightforward to reverse the mod -- no desoldering/resoldering required).
You should be getting those tomorrow or monday :D
mike52787 is kindly sending me some Pine White Alps switches, and I might use these for the click mod.
The lube on Orange and Blue sliders is dry, but when I sonicated the sliders, I got an "oil slick" on the surface of the water bath.So what do they look like when lubed? or is the lube only on the bottom of the slider, near the contact points of the leaf springs (ie, where the little black lube squares are on the slider)MoreOne of my newest and most pristine Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI SKCM White Alps keyboards doesn't sound and feel quite as good as my older Omni 101s. The only difference in construction that I can find is that the newer board has "bamboo" (no slits) switches, whereas the older boards have "pine" switches (with slits in the top housings).
Therefore, I've decided to mod the bamboo switches by replacing at least the top housings with pine housings from an Orange Alps board. I am going to keep the White click leaves, but I am undecided about the other swappable components (slider and return spring).
Sliders from Orange Alps are factory-lubricated, but because the switches are old, I decided to give them a thorough cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner, which of course removes the lubricant. After doing this and looking for similarities and differences among different types of sliders that I have at hand (Blue Alps, Orange Alps, White Alps, and Matias-Click), I noticed a subjective difference in slipperiness among the sliders. By pressing a finder against the slider and pulling my finger across it, I felt more friction with the Orange and Blue sliders than with the White and Matias sliders.
However, I wanted to get some quantitative indicator of slipperiness, so I rigged up a simple experiment to measure the coefficient of static friction. This consisted of a smooth plastic ruler as an inclined plane and a second ruler clamped perpendicular to the desk. I placed the slider at a fixed spot on the plastic ruler and slowly tilted the ruler until the slider slid down the ruler. I measured the distance on the vertical ruler corresponding to when the slider broke free of friction and slid down the incline. Thus knowing two sides of a right triangle, I could calculate the angle of tilt and its tangent, which is the coefficient of static friction. I did this 5 times for each slider, calculated the mean and standard error of the friction coefficients, and plotted the results:
(Attachment Link)
I also ran one-way ANOVA and the Tukey post-hoc test to find statistically significant (p < 0.05) differences. In the above chart, if two values are significantly different from each other, they have different small letters above the bar. A lower mean value corresponds to a lower coefficient of static friction (more slippery).
The results show that Blue and Orange sliders do not differ significantly in static friction. White sliders are more slippery than either Blue or Orange, and Matias-Click sliders are the most slippery.
This was a very crude experiment and YMMV, but it showed me that my subjective qualitative impressions were validated by this rough quantitative measurement.
I am not quite sure how to interpret the results, but they might provide an explanation for why Blue and Orange Alps switches were apparently factory-lubricated.
If there really any difference between pine and bamboo tops other than the slits? The slits just serve to provide a bit of padding on the return stroke, no, so you'd expect the difference to be just in the return stroke.
Or is the opening any different? I think that Matias case tops have an expanded opening, but can't confirm.
Just went from using dampened white alps and cream alps in an SGI granite and AEK 2 respectively to an omnikey 101 (My second, it's in mostly perfect shape) with undampened white alps and i think i'm about to go deaf. Not even my MX blues assault my ears like this.If you dont like the loudness of white alps, never try capacitive buckling spring :p
It's not unpleasant, just over the top and shockingly loud
What are some of the common 'dry' lube in the market? I'm tired of the Krytox shortage problem in Europe.I have not yet tried any of the dry lubricants. A popular one is Dupont teflon non-stick dry-film lubricant, available from Amazon:
This post: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75785.msg1885894#msg1885894 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75785.msg1885894#msg1885894) and the Alps party post convinced me to try dry lube and totally forget about Krytox (if for my MX, I just have Gateron linear and Zealios).
Has anyone here tried mixing a dry lube such as MoS2 with a solvent so that it could be applied evenly? The solvent would evaporate, leaving a film of the dry lube.
Thing is, I'm not sure that those tiny patches of greyish stuff at the base of the slider is the actual lubricant. I think it's the transparent stuff that the whole slider is coated in. So not "dry" lubricant, more like "dried" lubricant.Has anyone here tried mixing a dry lube such as MoS2 with a solvent so that it could be applied evenly? The solvent would evaporate, leaving a film of the dry lube.
I was thinking of this, but I'm no chemist like you or Chyros seem to be (you at least seem to have a good knowledge of chemistry :P). What would be a good option for molybdenum disulfide?
@tomboy: Could you elaborate on what you mean by the Orange Alps from an AEK feeling super dry? If you are experiencing a sensation of friction, i.e., a lack of smoothness, the switches might be dirty and could benefit from cleaning and possibly by lubrication as well.
Yup, sounds like a classic case of dirty alps. What condition was the board in that you took them out of? Dirty alps are never nice. Alps are very susceptible to dirt.@tomboy: Could you elaborate on what you mean by the Orange Alps from an AEK feeling super dry? If you are experiencing a sensation of friction, i.e., a lack of smoothness, the switches might be dirty and could benefit from cleaning and possibly by lubrication as well.
It's kinda hard to describe 'cause I don't have much experience with different switches. They feel a bit like mx clears until actuation but less smooth (not smooth at all), but maybe it's just because I was using gateron yellows for a long time now? I'll definitely clean them, if they are supposed to feel somewhat smooth :)
What kind of lube do you recommend? The only thing I have at hand is silicon lube used for twisty puzzles (https://thecubicle.us/cubicle-silicone-lube-c-35_64.html) would that work here as well?
Yup, sounds like a classic case of dirty alps. What condition was the board in that you took them out of? Dirty alps are never nice. Alps are very susceptible to dirt.@tomboy: Could you elaborate on what you mean by the Orange Alps from an AEK feeling super dry? If you are experiencing a sensation of friction, i.e., a lack of smoothness, the switches might be dirty and could benefit from cleaning and possibly by lubrication as well.
It's kinda hard to describe 'cause I don't have much experience with different switches. They feel a bit like mx clears until actuation but less smooth (not smooth at all), but maybe it's just because I was using gateron yellows for a long time now? I'll definitely clean them, if they are supposed to feel somewhat smooth :)
What kind of lube do you recommend? The only thing I have at hand is silicon lube used for twisty puzzles (https://thecubicle.us/cubicle-silicone-lube-c-35_64.html) would that work here as well?
@E3E: Regarding the top housings, I was amazed at how much of a difference these made when comparing Pine (with slits) vs. Bamboo (no slits) SKCM White Alps switches. When it comes to friction or smoothness, it is difficult to separate the effect of the slider from that of the top housing, because the friction is generated by interaction of the slider and the top housing, with some additional contribution by the tactile or click leaf rubbing against the slider.
Lately, I've been "top-modding" various Alps switches, mainly in an effort to convert them to the sound and feel I enjoy with Pine White Alps or Blue Alps.Several people have suggested the heaviness comes from the thicker metal used for the fake contact leaf in brown Alps, which is apparently thicker than that of the more usual tactile leaves.
Today, I tried swapping out the tactile leaves and return springs on some of the SKCM Brown Alps switches in my 60% custom board. I love the solid feel of the Brown Alps, but I find them a bit too heavy for long-term use. I also thought I'd like to convert them from tactile to tactile+clicky.
It has been a while since I consulted the DT wiki on these switches, and I had forgotten about the unusual tactile leaf -- it is a two-piece construction that fits very snugly against the slider. It seems to be mainly the tight fit of the tactile leaf that gives Brown Alps their solid and heavy feel.
There's a list of older keyboards that I don't want to just harvest Alps switches from them, but I want to try them out from time to time.
My idea is to do some hot-swap mod on their PCBs, e.g. SGI Granite or an Apple keyboard, say an AEK or AEKII. I'm still wondering how feasible such an idea is.
I've also read E3E's report on GH that the 60% infinity's PCB (not the Eagle PCB from Duck) fits the pins of Alps switches so snugly that soldering is plausibly not required. So, I hope to be optimistic.
The tight tolerances of the SKCM Brown Alps switch are satisfying when dismantling and reassembling the switches. The tactile assembly slides into the housing-slider like the bolt into the receiver of a well-made bolt-action rifle or the piston into the cylinder of a new internal combustion engine. Other Alps switches seem rattly in comparison.
I'm typing this on my 60% Brown Alps board. With its taut switches, stainless steel plate, PBT caps, and TEX CNC aluminum case, it feels like a serious writing machine.
As you no doubt know, there are a couple of good sources for SKCM Brown Alps switches: keyboards from the IBM 5140 convertible computer and from the Magnavox Videowriter 250. Note, however, that the Magnavox 250 sometimes had inverted rubber dome keyboards like those in the Videowriter 350. The IBM 5140 keyboards also have lovely dye-sublimated PBT keycaps.Heh, yeah, but of course it's not easy finding one, let alone that I can afford, in good condition xD .
Were there any other keyboards with SKCM Brown Alps? Any freestanding ones that could be easily interchanged among computers?
Swapped what SKCM Amber's I had into the Focus. The entire Alpha section and the arrow key's. The rest remain SKCM White until I can source the remaining Amber's I need :'(
The FK-3001 seems to suit them well. A unique switch for a unique keyboard. Initial impressions of SKCM Amber in a full board is good. It's an SKCM Blue with a sharper tactility, a more subtle click, and less bassyness. The Blue's are definitely a more well rounded switch however. I do love the sharpness, the way it quickly snaps down especially on bigger keys like the big ass enter. Makes as a great addition for my collection. I've been wanting to use the FK-3001 for its looks but I haven't had reason to until now :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cYZOsbZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZRdThQ9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdkotkK.jpg)
frankenstein
Yea, Alps is never ending.
If you like Topre SKCM Browns is a great place to start.
Yea, Alps is never ending.
If you like Topre SKCM Browns is a great place to start.
SKCM Browns - the heaviest linear switches of Alps, some people compare them to Gateron black or Cherry black.
Also loving SKCM Amber. Feels like i'm typing on a typewriter :cool:
Also loving SKCM Amber. Feels like i'm typing on a typewriter :cool:
Haha, you're always into your new projects, man. :p That's how it is though.
Also loving SKCM Amber. Feels like i'm typing on a typewriter :cool:
Haha, you're always into your new projects, man. :p That's how it is though.
Yea :))
They are legit good though. As good as SKCM Blue for sure. I think you should give them another try.
I want to, for sure, but I'm not willing to shell out much for them since they're not very high on my list. I wouldn't say they're AS good as blues, but I would like a second opinion. :P
What did you trade for them again, or did you buy them from Digi?
Yea, Alps is never ending.
If you like Topre SKCM Browns is a great place to start.
SKCM Browns - the heaviest linear switches of Alps, some people compare them to Gateron black or Cherry black.
SKCL Browns! :D
I want to, for sure, but I'm not willing to shell out much for them since they're not very high on my list. I wouldn't say they're AS good as blues, but I would like a second opinion. :P
What did you trade for them again, or did you buy them from Digi?
Bought them from Digi.
SKCM Blue is a more balanced switch for sure but I like the aggressiveness of the Amber's. Feels very metallic and what a 'mechanical' keyboard should feel like to me in a sense. I'm sure capacitive BS and beamspring beats that out though :p
Decided to go to the recycling centers around here and ask at the University for old keyboards the upcoming weeks.You should take all alps boards, except maybe simplified alps boards or at101ws. If you find more than you want to keep, feel free to sell them on classifieds.
Which switches are worth harvesting? I want blues obviously, and skcl browns as suggested to me here, but which one's are worth anything besides that? I don't have a car to transport too much, so I guess I'll just take the best stuff - if I find anything.
Which one's should I skip? I don't plan on building a collection.
Ok, so all complicated alps! Can they be sorted by rarity/price?
I can say SKCM whites have won me over. After all the bad experience with ones in my Omnikeys, when I finally cleaned and lubed ones in my KB-5181, they provide one of the better typing experiences I had. And the sound is not as rattly as on the Omnikeys, but a little bit deeper and subdued, despite the thin crappy caps :).The crappy caps actually help. Thin ABS really helps bring out the sound in Alps switches, moreso than thick ABS or PBT does.
ah memories...MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/rFOi5uF.jpg)MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bJdWQE4.jpg?1)
Although SKCM browns are favored by quite a few Alps lovers, Alps SKCL browns (linear) seem nowhere to be found except on a few Wiki posts.SKCL browns are very rare, and have only been found on 2 boards on very rare occasions. If there are more boards with them available, they are very rare or still undocumented. Since they are so rare that is why they are sparsely documented.
@mike52787
There are people who make even customized (PBT?) caps for Alps back then, now even GB is not doing so well.
I am typing this on my newly hybridized Zenith 163-73.
Natively, it has SKCL Yellow Alps. I modded the switches with tops and click leaves from SKCM Pine White Alps. I kept the Yellow sliders and return springs.
The result? It feels and sounds very much like SKCM Blue Alps!
A nice bonus of this keyboard is that the keycaps are dye-sub PBT.
I'll post more on this with some pics later.
just ordered 1.2mm thick SS plates for the VE.A from lasergist for about $75 shipped for both. Not bad at all.
The China laser cutting services can do alu for a good price, but they don't have 1.2mm
Also, that is a damn good price you have on those OG dye-subs ;)
boycott china
1) put in springWhen do you put in the click/tactile leaf for clicky or tactile Alps switches?
2) put on slider
3) slide over housing
Doddle.
@Mattr567: Thanks for the tips. I've been using a variant of Chyros' method this afternoon, and it is working reasonably well. It is not quite as convenient for me as the "dab of grease" method, but it keeps grease out of the switch.
For disassembly of Alps switches, I use the "Alps Trident" tool from MrBishop -- it works beautifully. To retrieve springs and click/tactile leaves, I use a magnet.
Regarding your Packard Bell T9102, perhaps you should create a separate thread dedicated to this keyboard with pics and audio clips.
It would be nice to think of some objective measures whereby we could compare the sound of various switch/keyboard combinations. For example, using standardized recording conditions, identical typing samples, and software such as Audacity we might compare audio spectra -- plots of frequency vs. dB. This might give us a way to quantify our subjective impressions of the sounds.
Before the spring. When you put the slider on the spring, the leaf gets pulled inward enough that you can slide the housing over it.1) put in springWhen do you put in the click/tactile leaf for clicky or tactile Alps switches?
2) put on slider
3) slide over housing
Doddle.
Looks like a good deal to me
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351918547561
After using my Packard Bell T9102 again I have come to the conclusion that SKCM Blue is better than Amber. They have a balance and bassyness that cannot be competed with :p HOWEVER SKCM Amber still deserves a place on the mantle.
Also reminds me of why I love my Packard. It sits wayy flatter on the desk than any of my other keyboards, it's quite refreshing. That craigslist guy had no idea what he had, only a old computer from a company that no longer exists. He was sitting on gold :eek:
I nominate the Packard Bell T9102 to be one of the best keyboards ever made ;)
Aww shucks, didn't realize until now that I was nominated for best discovery for the DT Awards 2016. Feel a bit special ^-^
@mseaworthy: I like your custom board! Given the position of your Fn key, do you use your thumb to activate it?
Swapped what SKCM Amber's I had into the Focus. The entire Alpha section and the arrow key's. The rest remain SKCM White until I can source the remaining Amber's I need :'(
The FK-3001 seems to suit them well. A unique switch for a unique keyboard. Initial impressions of SKCM Amber in a full board is good. It's an SKCM Blue with a sharper tactility, a more subtle click, and less bassyness. The Blue's are definitely a more well rounded switch however. I do love the sharpness, the way it quickly snaps down especially on bigger keys like the big ass enter. Makes as a great addition for my collection. I've been wanting to use the FK-3001 for its looks but I haven't had reason to until now :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cYZOsbZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZRdThQ9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdkotkK.jpg)
Swapped what SKCM Amber's I had into the Focus. The entire Alpha section and the arrow key's. The rest remain SKCM White until I can source the remaining Amber's I need :'(
The FK-3001 seems to suit them well. A unique switch for a unique keyboard. Initial impressions of SKCM Amber in a full board is good. It's an SKCM Blue with a sharper tactility, a more subtle click, and less bassyness. The Blue's are definitely a more well rounded switch however. I do love the sharpness, the way it quickly snaps down especially on bigger keys like the big ass enter. Makes as a great addition for my collection. I've been wanting to use the FK-3001 for its looks but I haven't had reason to until now :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cYZOsbZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZRdThQ9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RdkotkK.jpg)
That looks awesome, did you harvest them from an Apple IIc?
Swapped what SKCM Amber's I had into the Focus. The entire Alpha section and the arrow key's. The rest remain SKCM White until I can source the remaining Amber's I need :'(
The FK-3001 seems to suit them well. A unique switch for a unique keyboard. Initial impressions of SKCM Amber in a full board is good. It's an SKCM Blue with a sharper tactility, a more subtle click, and less bassyness. The Blue's are definitely a more well rounded switch however. I do love the sharpness, the way it quickly snaps down especially on bigger keys like the big ass enter. Makes as a great addition for my collection. I've been wanting to use the FK-3001 for its looks but I haven't had reason to until now :)
That looks awesome, did you harvest them from an Apple IIc?
Yea. And still looking for more Amber's to fill the rest of the board :rolleyes:
apple keycap and orange switches in an interesting layout - nice first board :)
is it a custom plate and handwired? you may want to remove nylon protecting the plate and get it painted :) beware of powdercoating as after it you may need to file the switch holes depending on how thick paint layer ends up to be
First Alps board.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DriwixZ.jpg)
A mix of AEK II and M0116 caps.
I've still got to get a case (blue Massdrop aluminum), program the keys, and retr0bright the space bar. There are also two 1.25u keys on the bottom I have to replace (you can see some gaps next to a couple of the bottom 1u keys).
Here is the board with only AEK caps:MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/2w2AZsg.jpg)
First Alps board.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DriwixZ.jpg)
A mix of AEK II and M0116 caps.
I've still got to get a case (blue Massdrop aluminum), program the keys, and retr0bright the space bar. There are also two 1.25u keys on the bottom I have to replace (you can see some gaps next to a couple of the bottom 1u keys).
Here is the board with only AEK caps:MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/2w2AZsg.jpg)
You are getting the Aluminium Clueboard Case? I thought that case has an integrated plate and only supports MX switches??
In anycase, nice job with the caps, it's pretty tricky to get Alps caps to fit modern layouts like this :thumb:
First Alps board.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DriwixZ.jpg)
A mix of AEK II and M0116 caps.
I've still got to get a case (blue Massdrop aluminum), program the keys, and retr0bright the space bar. There are also two 1.25u keys on the bottom I have to replace (you can see some gaps next to a couple of the bottom 1u keys).
Here is the board with only AEK caps:MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/2w2AZsg.jpg)
You are getting the Aluminium Clueboard Case? I thought that case has an integrated plate and only supports MX switches??
In anycase, nice job with the caps, it's pretty tricky to get Alps caps to fit modern layouts like this :thumb:
No, the older one: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/aluminum-case-for-leopold-fc660m?mode=guest_open
Also, yeah, it was a pain. It took me months of deciding which layout to use, and which caps maker (Signature Plastics/Tai-Hao or original Alps caps). Then someone sold me an M0116 with orange switches and that solved my problems: was able to make my desired layout!
I really wanted to do a clueboard, but I think that VA68 project is going to be home of my orange alps.First Alps board.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DriwixZ.jpg)
A mix of AEK II and M0116 caps.
I've still got to get a case (blue Massdrop aluminum), program the keys, and retr0bright the space bar. There are also two 1.25u keys on the bottom I have to replace (you can see some gaps next to a couple of the bottom 1u keys).
Here is the board with only AEK caps:MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/2w2AZsg.jpg)
You are getting the Aluminium Clueboard Case? I thought that case has an integrated plate and only supports MX switches??
In anycase, nice job with the caps, it's pretty tricky to get Alps caps to fit modern layouts like this :thumb:
No, the older one: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/aluminum-case-for-leopold-fc660m?mode=guest_open
Also, yeah, it was a pain. It took me months of deciding which layout to use, and which caps maker (Signature Plastics/Tai-Hao or original Alps caps). Then someone sold me an M0116 with orange switches and that solved my problems: was able to make my desired layout!
Very nice! Someone on Reddit figured out that the Varmilo 68% case and bottom row spacing works with the Apple AEK bottom row, this is probably what I will build for myself soon:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JMnhkv5.jpg)
agreed. but i think it's better
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Model F is forbidden fruit in a way. The F122 and 4704's are amazing but super expensive all said and done, and the cheaper F XT/AT have bizarro unusable layout's. Unless the power of Alps brought me one in tradingYou should have bought a MF kit then! all the advantages of a model m and all the keyfeel advantages of a model f in usable layouts? sign me the **** up!
I do still enjoy the Model M, just bought one very recently as I traded my old one a couple month's ago. But the pingy slap the Model F has versus the Model M's thunk is really something.
Tried capacitive buckling spring for the first time today, really good switch :o
Easily on par with SKCM Blue. It's amazing in a totally different way.
Model F is forbidden fruit in a way. The F122 and 4704's are amazing but super expensive all said and done, and the cheaper F XT/AT have bizarro unusable layout's. Unless the power of Alps brought me one in tradingYou should have bought a MF kit then! all the advantages of a model m and all the keyfeel advantages of a model f in usable layouts? sign me the **** up!
I do still enjoy the Model M, just bought one very recently as I traded my old one a couple month's ago. But the pingy slap the Model F has versus the Model M's thunk is really something.
YeaTried capacitive buckling spring for the first time today, really good switch :o
Easily on par with SKCM Blue. It's amazing in a totally different way.
Yeah, that is why Ellipse's Model-F Keyboards will be much sought after when he's finished production and sold them all off, to everyone that loves this type of switch.
Suspect some will sell these on Flebay for maximum profits :thumb: .
https://deskthority.net/group-buys-f50/model-mf-drop-in-kit-for-converting-the-ibm-model-m-into-an-f-t15091.html?sid=07a15eca05933f52a3f1bad16ebdc28c (https://deskthority.net/group-buys-f50/model-mf-drop-in-kit-for-converting-the-ibm-model-m-into-an-f-t15091.html?sid=07a15eca05933f52a3f1bad16ebdc28c)Model F is forbidden fruit in a way. The F122 and 4704's are amazing but super expensive all said and done, and the cheaper F XT/AT have bizarro unusable layout's. Unless the power of Alps brought me one in tradingYou should have bought a MF kit then! all the advantages of a model m and all the keyfeel advantages of a model f in usable layouts? sign me the **** up!
I do still enjoy the Model M, just bought one very recently as I traded my old one a couple month's ago. But the pingy slap the Model F has versus the Model M's thunk is really something.
What's that?
What's that?
...
Thinking about it, someone should make Model F reproduction parts that retrofit into Model M's. Saves money too.
haha I guess its all perspective, I thought that that was a great price for such a kit.
Well, to get back on track I will ask my fellow alps lovers a question: What is your experience with swapping dampened sliders into normal SKCM/L switches? I have 2 boards full of dampened white alps and Im not sure what to do with them, and I also have ~150 disassembled blue alps in really ****ty condition. I was thinking of putting together some hybrid switches with the parts, but not sure how it'll turn out.
Wait, what caps are on your model M? AFAIK the only caps with green sublegends are the Wheelwriter Typewriter caps and the Displaywriter SSK caps. I have 2 sets of the wheelwriter caps, and they're great. The best dyesub on one piece caps Ive ever seen, and it has those cool looking sublegends, whats not to love?haha I guess its all perspective, I thought that that was a great price for such a kit.
Well, to get back on track I will ask my fellow alps lovers a question: What is your experience with swapping dampened sliders into normal SKCM/L switches? I have 2 boards full of dampened white alps and Im not sure what to do with them, and I also have ~150 disassembled blue alps in really ****ty condition. I was thinking of putting together some hybrid switches with the parts, but not sure how it'll turn out.
Yea it's still a good deal, just not the right time for me :p
Still have a awesome Model M coming to me. Green alpha sublegends + industrial case?! :eek:
Yea it's still a good deal, just not the right time for me :pWait, what caps are on your model M? AFAIK the only caps with green sublegends are the Wheelwriter Typewriter caps and the Displaywriter SSK caps. I have 2 sets of the wheelwriter caps, and they're great. The best dyesub on one piece caps Ive ever seen, and it has those cool looking sublegends, whats not to love?
Still have a awesome Model M coming to me. Green alpha sublegends + industrial case?! :eek:
This thread should now be known as the capacitive buckling spring appreciation thread. >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D
haha I guess its all perspective, I thought that that was a great price for such a kit.
Well, to get back on track I will ask my fellow alps lovers a question: What is your experience with swapping dampened sliders into normal SKCM/L switches? I have 2 boards full of dampened white alps and Im not sure what to do with them, and I also have ~150 disassembled blue alps in really ****ty condition. I was thinking of putting together some hybrid switches with the parts, but not sure how it'll turn out.
This thread should now be known as the capacitive buckling spring appreciation thread. >:D >:D >:D >:D >:DSorry I derailed the thread :))
Tried capacitive buckling spring for the first time today, really good switch :eek:Welcome to The Enlightenment.
Easily on par with SKCM Blue. It's amazing in a totally different way.
wait... you have an OG kishsaver??? SELL ME THISTried capacitive buckling spring for the first time today, really good switch :eek:Welcome to The Enlightenment.
Easily on par with SKCM Blue. It's amazing in a totally different way.
The IBM Model F XT was my first refurbishing project. I got the XT board for $19. It was in okay shape, but I went ahead and dismantled it, sanded and painted the barrel plate, installed a Teensy with Soarer's Converter, installed a panel-mount USB-B connector, programmed it to something like a HHKB layout, and replaced some of the keycaps with new ones from Unicomp.
The XT is my most solid keyboard and the capacitive buckling springs are my favorite switch. The layout is a bit strange, but I have made it work for me.
I like the Model F so much that I have the following boards waiting for me to refurbish them and where applicable mod them to an ANSI layout: F62 Kishsaver, F84 AT, F107, and F122.
On order, I have the Ellipse F62 and the lot_lizard et al. FSSK and full-size MF boards.
I also like Alps and Topre, but I consider Model F the greatest switch of them all.
Yep. A "real" Kishsaver. It's not for sale at this time. Possibly never. I want to try my hand at refurbishing and converting it first, and I want to see how it compares to the "new" Kishsaver that I will be getting through the Ellipse project. I waited a l-o-n-g time for the Kishy, but patience finally was rewarded.haha yeah, It'll be the same with me and my never-ending hunt for an unsaver.
I saw an Unsaver sell on eBay a few weeks ago. $175 BIN with an XWhatsIt controller installed.Yep. A "real" Kishsaver. It's not for sale at this time. Possibly never. I want to try my hand at refurbishing and converting it first, and I want to see how it compares to the "new" Kishsaver that I will be getting through the Ellipse project. I waited a l-o-n-g time for the Kishy, but patience finally was rewarded.haha yeah, It'll be the same with me and my never-ending hunt for an unsaver.
Super clean SGI Button Box from Taobao. SKCL Grey LED https://world.taobao.com/item/520717221840.htmShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vJ3VDjk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RwYhc4t.jpg)
Just now finished putting a Leading Edge DC-2014 with SKCM Blue Alps back together, and I am typing on it now. The switches turned out to be in excellent shape, but the keycaps and case were the dirtiest I had ever seen. Underneath the grime, the case and caps came out looking almost new -- virtually no yellowing. I didn't need to do anything to the switches, except I replaced the slider from the spacebar switch with a damped slider from a Matias Quiet switch.Starting to convert to blue yet? ;)
I've installed an Orihalcon/Soarer internal converter and a panel-mount micro-USB connector. The XT-like layout on the DC-2014 is not bad. With the oversized Right Bracket serving as Backspace and the PrtSc to the right of the short Right Shift as the Fn key, is is convenient to set up the board with a HHKB layout.
I cut a piece of "art foam" to fit snugly in the bottom of the case, using a cork borer to punch holes for the PCB standoffs and screw mounts. The foam helps to make the case sound especially solid -- it sounds like my IBM XT when I do a percussion test -- thumping the case with my finger.
The only change I might make is to replace the alpha caps with a PBT set. Although the stock doubleshot ABS caps look fine, I prefer the feel of PBT. Some folks say that thin ABS is the best keycap material to bring out the sound of Blue Alps. If thick PBT deadens the sound too much, I have a thin PBT set from an IBM P70 to try out.
How does your Frankenswitch compare to Pine White, Orange, and Blue Alps?
Looks like we are both into recreational switch use. ;)
How does your Frankenswitch compare to Pine White, Orange, and Blue Alps?
The way I see it, I "re-created" an orange switch.
As far as I know, all the pine parts are the same except for leaves, springs, and slider color. I simply left the bases in place to avoid all the mess and uncertainty that goes with soldering and de-soldering 2 sets of switches, re-used the like-new sliders and top housings, and merely replaced the slightly heavier white springs with slightly lighter orange springs, and clicky leaves with tactile leaves. Plus lightly lubricated the sliders for good measure.
The result is a relatively light, very smooth, and quiet switch with good tactility. What more do you want?
Hypersphere, I believe I thought of the creamsicle term. I may not have been there first but I don't believe I ripped it off of anyone else. I believe that tall switch plates are an important component here!I'd say that having the cream bases is really key in ensuring the damping actually works as intended. It sacrifices long switch plates, but it's a trade-off for superior damping.
Retrobrighted my Tandem keycaps again. Got them pearly white finally :) The only side affect was that I decided to do over the Beige keycaps and bleached them quite badly. No loss since I was never going to use them. They only bleached after 3 rounds of retrobright so I can't blame them. The white's turned out great.
Here they are on my SKCM Amber FK-3001. They do change them feel a lot actually. The switches feel smoother with more plastic between your finger and the slider. These DS Tandem caps are made by Alps so they are superb. Not all the legends are perfect but they fit in pretty well if the stock Taihao caps aren't right next to them. The Taihao caps are slightly whiter, it's just down to the base color's are slightly different.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C4ZYr4r.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U5WZtHN.jpg)
Spacebar I purposefully never retrobrightedShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/miPtrwN.jpg)
Retrobrighted my Tandem keycaps again. Got them pearly white finally :) The only side affect was that I decided to do over the Beige keycaps and bleached them quite badly. No loss since I was never going to use them. They only bleached after 3 rounds of retrobright so I can't blame them. The white's turned out great.
Here they are on my SKCM Amber FK-3001. They do change them feel a lot actually. The switches feel smoother with more plastic between your finger and the slider. These DS Tandem caps are made by Alps so they are superb. Not all the legends are perfect but they fit in pretty well if the stock Taihao caps aren't right next to them. The Taihao caps are slightly whiter, it's just down to the base color's are slightly different.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C4ZYr4r.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U5WZtHN.jpg)
Spacebar I purposefully never retrobrightedShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/miPtrwN.jpg)
I warned you about the bleaching, my man. :P
I was about to ask you why you wiped off the lipstick off of your striped ambers, but then I realized they were SKCMs. :b
Lol. It was only on the beige keycaps, and after the 3rd round. It took some pretty extreme measures to cause it to happen, but lesson learned nonetheless. The white's came out perfect. No bleaching or stain's.
Lol. It was only on the beige keycaps, and after the 3rd round. It took some pretty extreme measures to cause it to happen, but lesson learned nonetheless. The white's came out perfect. No bleaching or stain's.
Yeah, any dark colors are very vulnerable to bleaching. I would never use the smother and wrap in plastic method since that's just asking for bleaching. Just coat them and wash them off. The plastic wrap isn't helping anything. With darker colors, if you want to be very vigilant, wash them off every hour to be sure the stuff does not dry. If RB dries on darker colors, it almost always leaves bleaching, especially if you're using a creme.
Yeah, the whites and creams and pearls are magical with RB, but anything that dips into the greys and beiges and worse, blacks and dark browns, etc, will be very vulnerable.
Those caps were expendable anyway though. The 3K1 looks good, my man. :thumb: Good quality ABS to type on.
Now if I could get more SKCM Amber's to complete the board :))
Also put together all the SKCL Yellow's today. Will start the SKCM Blue's soon. SKCL Green's after of course :p
Now if I could get more SKCM Amber's to complete the board :))
Also put together all the SKCL Yellow's today. Will start the SKCM Blue's soon. SKCL Green's after of course :p
What do you plan on using the SKCL Greens for? :)
Taobao Blue's today after ultrasonic. With a bit of teflon lube on the slider they feel great!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YKf6tLc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3jiPrnw.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lTXJzfH.jpg)
SO much work though...
just get a model F
Does anyone know how to wire up a Pingmaster for TMK? Have my hex file but idk hardware wise how to wire it up. Also what board should I use (teensy, arduino etc)PD0 is literally Pin D0, just drop the P and you know what pins to solder to.
Looking at this idk what PD0 and PD1 is
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/converter/ibm4704_usb
Does anyone know how to wire up a Pingmaster for TMK? Have my hex file but idk hardware wise how to wire it up. Also what board should I use (teensy, arduino etc)PD0 is literally Pin D0, just drop the P and you know what pins to solder to.
Looking at this idk what PD0 and PD1 is
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/converter/ibm4704_usb
Does anyone know if Alps Plate Springs have the same pin configuration as standard Alps switches? I'd like to swap them into a board sometime.nope, theyre a completely different animal. differently sized and the pins arent the same.
Does anyone know if Alps Plate Springs have the same pin configuration as standard Alps switches? I'd like to swap them into a board sometime.
@Mattr567: An easy but higher-cost option is to buy a Pingmaster converter from Hasu.
Dug up this photo the Taobao proxy service took. More graphic than the pictures I took even. The dirt is glued onto the slider!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/o77zbjw.jpg)
Dug up this photo the Taobao proxy service took. More graphic than the pictures I took even. The dirt is glued onto the slider!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/o77zbjw.jpg)
You got it from a TaoBao proxy?!? :eek:
I may be getting something in a similar condition then. :-X
It's hit or miss. I've actually had my alps boards in good shape, and my cherry boards in bad shape. Just don't buy anything that's too expensive can be riskyDug up this photo the Taobao proxy service took. More graphic than the pictures I took even. The dirt is glued onto the slider!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/o77zbjw.jpg)
That's a model M clone right? I want to get one eventually it's just too strange not to have
The Model M clone I got from the same taobao seller looked quite different from yours and didn't quite fit in an normal model M case. However. it had the same strange keycaps. Mine were definitely pad printed ABS and showed it, as many of them were super shiny and had some legends worn off.Dug up this photo the Taobao proxy service took. More graphic than the pictures I took even. The dirt is glued onto the slider!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/o77zbjw.jpg)
That's a model M clone right? I want to get one eventually it's just too strange not to have
Yea, what's left of one. They're interesting boards for sure, the caps are rather thin though. Either pad printed or dyesubbed. I still have the caps from that board. Mine are dyesubbed,
Now if I could get more SKCM Amber's to complete the board :))
Also put together all the SKCL Yellow's today. Will start the SKCM Blue's soon. SKCL Green's after of course :p
What do you plan on using the SKCL Greens for? :)
Selling all of it. Need the money for SKCM Amber's and other stuff. I'm thinking about swapping the V60 with SKCM Blue though. Would need to take picture's of my hand wiring setup, and be careful. Then I would sell off it's SKCL Green's.
May or may not happen though.
Now if I could get more SKCM Amber's to complete the board :))
Also put together all the SKCL Yellow's today. Will start the SKCM Blue's soon. SKCL Green's after of course :p
What do you plan on using the SKCL Greens for? :)
Selling all of it. Need the money for SKCM Amber's and other stuff. I'm thinking about swapping the V60 with SKCM Blue though. Would need to take picture's of my hand wiring setup, and be careful. Then I would sell off it's SKCL Green's.
May or may not happen though.
Can't wait for your sale, I might get something if shipping allows :p
Now if I could get more SKCM Amber's to complete the board :))
Also put together all the SKCL Yellow's today. Will start the SKCM Blue's soon. SKCL Green's after of course :p
What do you plan on using the SKCL Greens for? :)
Selling all of it. Need the money for SKCM Amber's and other stuff. I'm thinking about swapping the V60 with SKCM Blue though. Would need to take picture's of my hand wiring setup, and be careful. Then I would sell off it's SKCL Green's.
May or may not happen though.
Can't wait for your sale, I might get something if shipping allows :p
Well it's going to be 100+ each of SKCL Green, Yellow and SKCM Blue among some other things like some MX Blue's I have laying around from a former G80-11800 swap.
Just a quick question. Which is the most affordable way to get an alps board in this day and age? I would put a new controller in an old ADB board which seems like it would be too expensive.
Just a quick question. Which is the most affordable way to get an alps board in this day and age? I would put a new controller in an old ADB board which seems like it would be too expensive.Focus 2001, dell at101w and the apple AEK/AEKII are great places to start. all can be had for under 50$.
About to build my first alps board... MiniVan w/ Salmon alps. Anything i should do before starting? Clean/lube/swap with the matias quiet clicks?If theyre already clean dont bother. As for swapping with quiet clicks, the salmons are far superior switches IMO, stick with them if theyre reasonably clean. The main determining factor in whether alps switches are good or not is the condition that they are in.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/t5SYEwa.jpg)
About to build my first alps board... MiniVan w/ Salmon alps. Anything i should do before starting? Clean/lube/swap with the matias quiet clicks?If theyre already clean dont bother. As for swapping with quiet clicks, the salmons are far superior switches IMO, stick with them if theyre reasonably clean. The main determining factor in whether alps switches are good or not is the condition that they are in.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/t5SYEwa.jpg)
Also, good taste in wrist rests. I have the same one, however it is the TKL sized version.
About to build my first alps board... MiniVan w/ Salmon alps. Anything i should do before starting? Clean/lube/swap with the matias quiet clicks?If theyre already clean dont bother. As for swapping with quiet clicks, the salmons are far superior switches IMO, stick with them if theyre reasonably clean. The main determining factor in whether alps switches are good or not is the condition that they are in.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/t5SYEwa.jpg)
Also, good taste in wrist rests. I have the same one, however it is the TKL sized version.
About to build my first alps board... MiniVan w/ Salmon alps. Anything i should do before starting? Clean/lube/swap with the matias quiet clicks?If theyre already clean dont bother. As for swapping with quiet clicks, the salmons are far superior switches IMO, stick with them if theyre reasonably clean. The main determining factor in whether alps switches are good or not is the condition that they are in.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/t5SYEwa.jpg)
Also, good taste in wrist rests. I have the same one, however it is the TKL sized version.
I disassembled them and cleaned them to the best of my abilities. DataVac-ed (its actually a blower, not a vacuum) the tops and bases first then used distilled water and denture tabs with tops and sliders. I think i need an ultrasonic cleaner at this rate.
Just a quick question. Which is the most affordable way to get an alps board in this day and age? I would put a new controller in an old ADB board which seems like it would be too expensive.
you should be able to pop that out and epoxy it
I was toying with my lightcycle caps too and the stem is really tight on my orange alps. Need to be careful with these.
Ah, the innocence of youth... I, too, fondly remember the days before I realized buckling springs made all other switches unnecessary. (They don't have all the pretty colors, though, I'll give you that.)
membrane bs < cream alps = ergo clears < capacitive BSAh, the innocence of youth... I, too, fondly remember the days before I realized buckling springs made all other switches unnecessary. (They don't have all the pretty colors, though, I'll give you that.)
Membrane or Capacitive? Membrane is pretty equal to Alps in general.
we both know that is a big fat liemembrane bs < cream alps = ergo clears < capacitive BSAh, the innocence of youth... I, too, fondly remember the days before I realized buckling springs made all other switches unnecessary. (They don't have all the pretty colors, though, I'll give you that.)
Membrane or Capacitive? Membrane is pretty equal to Alps in general.
topre > your ****ty ass board
kwe both know that is a big fat liemembrane bs < cream alps = ergo clears < capacitive BSAh, the innocence of youth... I, too, fondly remember the days before I realized buckling springs made all other switches unnecessary. (They don't have all the pretty colors, though, I'll give you that.)
Membrane or Capacitive? Membrane is pretty equal to Alps in general.
topre > your ****ty ass board
no
wut r a ass board 8)membrane bs < cream alps = ergo clears < capacitive BSAh, the innocence of youth... I, too, fondly remember the days before I realized buckling springs made all other switches unnecessary. (They don't have all the pretty colors, though, I'll give you that.)
Membrane or Capacitive? Membrane is pretty equal to Alps in general.
topre > your ****ty ass board
I tried Salmon Alps at the UK meet... I need to get me a Salmon Alps board...Yeah, salmons are really nice switches, if you dont mind the occasional upstroke click. Easily the nicest production board that comes with salmons would be the wang 725 series.
About to build my first alps board... MiniVan w/ Salmon alps. Anything i should do before starting? Clean/lube/swap with the matias quiet clicks?Jesus christ I need the vanShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/t5SYEwa.jpg)
I tried Salmon Alps at the UK meet... I need to get me a Salmon Alps board...This is me with blues... Also, I can't seem to remember the salmon board, hmm...
Finally finished the van... It came out pretty good i think. Only 5 switch swaps to get a perfect board so thats not too bad for vintage switches. Still trying to figure all the layers on this thing.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/6QePwiO.jpg)
Finally finished the van... It came out pretty good i think. Only 5 switch swaps to get a perfect board so thats not too bad for vintage switches. Still trying to figure all the layers on this thing.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/6QePwiO.jpg)
Lookin good! Did lubing the keycap stems help?
Interesting. How is there no difference in travel when using the same slider?Well I have 3 extra switches. 2 sliders are ruined. One has a glued stem inside it and the other has been hollowed out inside so no caps fit. The final one is fine but is missing its paint. It got rubbed off. I used that slider in the spacebar switch since it looks like a SKCL Amber, and that mean's I have one whole switch that isn't messed up, and has it's paint still.
And does that mean you actually have parts to convert another linear switch to striped amber? I'd be interested in that :)
Two 'identical' SKCM cream dampened? Are they both from the same board? Or from the same model of board? If they're from SGI Granite or AEK II, I suspect those manufactured in Ireland and those manufactured in the US have subtle differences.
The switch (back) to shorter, more tightly wound springs was one of the things they changed over the years. It shouldn't affect weight or travel significantly.
They're all dead :(Can't wait to throw my money at you :pShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/fK610FN.jpg)
Good thing I had extras. The Taobao Blue's are complete and 100% finished. 118 total fully tested with my multimeter. After the Taobao Green's are reassembled then it's all done :)
They're all dead :(Can't wait to throw my money at you :pShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/fK610FN.jpg)
Good thing I had extras. The Taobao Blue's are complete and 100% finished. 118 total fully tested with my multimeter. After the Taobao Green's are reassembled then it's all done :)
I pretty much gave up on my taobao blues, Its not really worth the effort to me. Im holding on to the parts still though, maybe some day Ill have the urge to do them, but for now theyre gonna stay in pieces.
only buy new stuff on taobao, literally everything has had a problem from there if it's used at least in my order experience of 5+ ordersI just ordered a Model M from there, pray for it :/
only buy new stuff on taobao, literally everything has had a problem from there if it's used at least in my order experience of 5+ ordersI just ordered a Model M from there, pray for it :/
i can't find any alps from taobao, or is it just me
By Taobao blues you mean alps you got off of Taobao right? :o
@Mattr567 nice to see you have them finished. I'm in the same boat, but I'm much more lazy, so I'm doing it like 10 switches per day :)Paper mod it to kill the click. Not enough pressure on the bottom of the switch. If you fiddle with a Matias QC leaf you can see this happen very easily.
The thing I hate is that upstroke click, which I get on many switches when reassembling them. At first i thought it's related to too much room for the click leaf, in case the top housing gets worn out, but then I disassembled and reassembled an orange switch, and I got the same click >:D And orange tactile leaf doesn't move inside the switch. From what I can tell, it turns out this sound is generated by tactile leaf being sprung out when the slider goes up, passes the leaf "hooks" and releases the leaf to hit it quickly. Why would this happen with a freshly reassembled orange switch is beyond me.
I have some double-sided scotch tape, so I'll try with that. There is some inherent faint ping in clicky switches, but it's quite discernible from the click that occurs on the upstroke.
My first Alps buildLooks really nice! what switches?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jj9VhU7.jpg)
My first Alps buildLooks really nice! what switches?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jj9VhU7.jpg)
Custom Alps (Matias QC) switch true HHKB-style 60% keyboard build. Will post the file for the keyboard plate on #Thingiverse soon.
Plate is Cherry Wood laminated (and lacquered/stained) on stiffer acrylic which was laser cut by myself with Costar stabilizers.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/697be29f571da0cffa8b558b5265a72e.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/882b5798eb1673e88da7768aeffc1077.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/c9465c0fa87892ed0a952879456ed57d.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/74debc06af4bbcbfb0fe52f1410eafbd.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/8662a4127472e08e87e873e959deee23.gif)
Ahh glad to see someone else with an HHKB build in a Lambo case..
Ahh glad to see someone else with an HHKB build in a Lambo case..Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/8662a4127472e08e87e873e959deee23.gif)
Can't tell if joking or serious....
Also, need make another milled case off of my design here (first one didn't account for the plate height being higher with Alps) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1187467
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Custom Alps (Matias QC) switch true HHKB-style 60% keyboard build. Will post the file for the keyboard plate on #Thingiverse soon.Blue Sadster???
Plate is Cherry Wood laminated (and lacquered/stained) on stiffer acrylic which was laser cut by myself with Costar stabilizers.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/697be29f571da0cffa8b558b5265a72e.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/882b5798eb1673e88da7768aeffc1077.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/c9465c0fa87892ed0a952879456ed57d.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/74debc06af4bbcbfb0fe52f1410eafbd.jpg)
A novelty from the alpine winter set.Custom Alps (Matias QC) switch true HHKB-style 60% keyboard build. Will post the file for the keyboard plate on #Thingiverse soon.Blue Sadster???
Plate is Cherry Wood laminated (and lacquered/stained) on stiffer acrylic which was laser cut by myself with Costar stabilizers.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/697be29f571da0cffa8b558b5265a72e.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/882b5798eb1673e88da7768aeffc1077.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/c9465c0fa87892ed0a952879456ed57d.jpg)Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/74debc06af4bbcbfb0fe52f1410eafbd.jpg)
hey guys! appreciate this!
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5lhzxk/skcm_brown_alps_vea_build_mont_blanc_level/
Very interesting to see that some of these early black switchplates have heated treated metal contacts. These samples come from SKCL Greens from a IBM Multistation with a 1984 date stamp. It is possible that some of these switches were made in 1983, which is the first production year of the SKCL/SKCM series.Nice, that's a cool find! :) It's fun to see how so many older keyboards had heat-treated parts and they gradually ALL got phased out xD . Isn't it the contact foil though, rather than the terminal?
Normal switchplate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ikzZHSt.jpg1)
Rainbow switchplate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AV3hqQE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dnE6FQz.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kMlY2Zm.jpg)
Very interesting to see that some of these early black switchplates have heated treated metal contacts. These samples come from SKCL Greens from a IBM Multistation with a 1984 date stamp. It is possible that some of these switches were made in 1983, which is the first production year of the SKCL/SKCM series.Nice, that's a cool find! :) It's fun to see how so many older keyboards had heat-treated parts and they gradually ALL got phased out xD . Isn't it the contact foil though, rather than the terminal?
Normal switchplate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ikzZHSt.jpg1)
Rainbow switchplate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AV3hqQE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dnE6FQz.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kMlY2Zm.jpg)
Does anyone know of a common and cheap dome-with-slider that is Alps mount? I just need a cheap Alps set, anything will do.Alps dws, Acer dws, Matsu****a dws, Tulip dws, Monterey dws, Scorpius dws (some)...
hey guys! appreciate this!
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5lhzxk/skcm_brown_alps_vea_build_mont_blanc_level/
Very interesting to see that some of these early black switchplates have heated treated metal contacts. These samples come from SKCL Greens from a IBM Multistation with a 1984 date stamp. It is possible that some of these switches were made in 1983, which is the first production year of the SKCL/SKCM series.
Normal switchplate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ikzZHSt.jpg1)
Rainbow switchplate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AV3hqQE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dnE6FQz.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kMlY2Zm.jpg)
Does anyone know of a common and cheap dome-with-slider that is Alps mount? I just need a cheap Alps set, anything will do.Alps dws, Acer dws, Matsu****a dws, Tulip dws, Monterey dws, Scorpius dws (some)...
So I was able to try an omnikey101 with white alps and an 102 with blue alps.
They both feel the same. What am I doing wrong? Why are people going crazy about blue but disregard white?
I have read that the difference comes from late white alps being worse but in this case I dont seem to notice anything.
A quick question : Can I make a Monterey Blue build with cherry/costar styled stabs? Also, are monterey's compatible with the open-source plates? I have yet to see a single custom Monterey Blue build.
someone had an IC for an SMK pcb but it doesn't exist.
No to every question
Actually, thats not true at all. SMK montereys fit in cherry plates. Im currently working on a project that utilizes that.
Yeah, the pins are different, but the switches clip into the plate just fine. Its a hand wired project, more of a proof of concept than anything fancy. for that reason I havent taken any photos.
No, SMKs have a two-pin pinout. You may be thinking of Omrons.Yeah, the pins are different, but the switches clip into the plate just fine. Its a hand wired project, more of a proof of concept than anything fancy. for that reason I havent taken any photos.
SMK are the ones with three pins on the bottom correct? If you're handwiring, which two pins do you need to use?
Did anyone else notice that were on page 100? :)Impressive! this thread has always been active, so it was only a matter of time. This must be the most active thread with the fewest participants on the site!
Don't worry. When I get my first alps board in a few days, there'll be one more convert. Slowly but surely, alps shall conquer the market.Alps will conquer everything. Hmmm. Excellent. *twiddles fingers*
A quick question : Can I make a Monterey Blue build with cherry/costar styled stabs? Also, are monterey's compatible with the open-source plates? I have yet to see a single custom Monterey Blue build.
someone had an IC for an SMK pcb but it doesn't exist.
No to every question
Well ****.
Thanks for the reply though.
unfortunately, most whole SMK boards are rather badly built, so you're better off desoldering them. example: chicony kb-5181 and 5191A quick question : Can I make a Monterey Blue build with cherry/costar styled stabs? Also, are monterey's compatible with the open-source plates? I have yet to see a single custom Monterey Blue build.
someone had an IC for an SMK pcb but it doesn't exist.
No to every question
Well ****.
Thanks for the reply though.
Incompatibility is perhaps good news for SMK (whole) keyboards collectors though.
[/spoiler]A quick question : Can I make a Monterey Blue build with cherry/costar styled stabs? Also, are monterey's compatible with the open-source plates? I have yet to see a single custom Monterey Blue build.
someone had an IC for an SMK pcb but it doesn't exist.
No to every question
Well ****.
Thanks for the reply though.
Incompatibility is perhaps good news for SMK (whole) keyboards collectors though.
unfortunately, most whole SMK boards are rather badly built, so you're better off desoldering them. example: chicony kb-5181 and 5191
Bought another V60 Alps board to replace my broken one. Going to put the SKCM Ambers into it. Will be extra careful desoldering it. Have a lot more skill and tools than last time like a year ago. I sold the SKCL Green that used to be in my old one. So the Alps LED project is therefore dead, and the FK-3001 is going back to full SKCM White. I do need a few extra switches though, anyone have any White Alps they could spare? I cannibalized a couple to repair other switches.
SKCM Amber + IBM Multistation sphericals ;)
All half-assed products (in terms of design or build) should not be allowed to be produced.This would halt >99.9% of all keyboard production in the entire world :p . Arguably the entirety of it xD .
Just upgraded my Orion's plate to carbon fiber with a special touch. ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/YMKVhWN.jpg)
I have one more plate that I plan on using for my Mira prototype and then the steel plate from the Orion will go into another TKL I build with an Alphas PCB in the future. My two babies with hotswappable PCBs will have the carbon.
Thanks Angelo. :D
Looks really good, thanks also to Yutski for the plate file. Perfect username for the cutout.
Bought another V60 Alps board to replace my broken one. Going to put the SKCM Ambers into it. Will be extra careful desoldering it. Have a lot more skill and tools than last time like a year ago. I sold the SKCL Green that used to be in my old one. So the Alps LED project is therefore dead, and the FK-3001 is going back to full SKCM White. I do need a few extra switches though, anyone have any White Alps they could spare? I cannibalized a couple to repair other switches.
SKCM Amber + IBM Multistation sphericals ;)
So you don't like the IBM 5556 Multistation keyboards? They look as cool as the Model F battleship.
Or those 5556 are impossible to convert?
Bought another V60 Alps board to replace my broken one. Going to put the SKCM Ambers into it. Will be extra careful desoldering it. Have a lot more skill and tools than last time like a year ago. I sold the SKCL Green that used to be in my old one. So the Alps LED project is therefore dead, and the FK-3001 is going back to full SKCM White. I do need a few extra switches though, anyone have any White Alps they could spare? I cannibalized a couple to repair other switches.
SKCM Amber + IBM Multistation sphericals ;)
So you don't like the IBM 5556 Multistation keyboards? They look as cool as the Model F battleship.
Or those 5556 are impossible to convert?
No, I got one that was absolutely destroyed and used it for parts.
Bought another V60 Alps board to replace my broken one. Going to put the SKCM Ambers into it. Will be extra careful desoldering it. Have a lot more skill and tools than last time like a year ago. I sold the SKCL Green that used to be in my old one. So the Alps LED project is therefore dead, and the FK-3001 is going back to full SKCM White. I do need a few extra switches though, anyone have any White Alps they could spare? I cannibalized a couple to repair other switches.
SKCM Amber + IBM Multistation sphericals ;)
So you don't like the IBM 5556 Multistation keyboards? They look as cool as the Model F battleship.
Or those 5556 are impossible to convert?
No, I got one that was absolutely destroyed and used it for parts.
Let it re-live in your V60 then. Peace!
I really like the battleship (Model M / F), but because I can't stand the echoing ping noise, I can only accept its Alps and rubber-dome or other switches counterparts, e.g. the 5556 which has even 1 more F-key row than the Northgate OmniKey Ultra.
Just upgraded my Orion's plate to carbon fiber with a special touch. ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/YMKVhWN.jpg)
I have one more plate that I plan on using for my Mira prototype and then the steel plate from the Orion will go into another TKL I build with an Alphas PCB in the future. My two babies with hotswappable PCBs will have the carbon.
Thanks Angelo. :D
Looks really good, thanks also to Yutski for the plate file. Perfect username for the cutout.
It's like a cool company logo for E3E.
Which is more difficult to cut by the way? Carbon fibre or stainless steel? And which is more pleasant to use?
Let it re-live in your V60 then. Peace!
So I need 8 SKCM Whites, anyone? Will pay.
A quick question : Can I make a Monterey Blue build with cherry/costar styled stabs? Also, are monterey's compatible with the open-source plates? I have yet to see a single custom Monterey Blue build.
I don't own a wirepuller, can I do it with a normal one, or will I risk damaging the stems? I can order one fairly cheaply from china, it's just gonna take a month for it to arrive. I would prefer replacing my keycaps right away.You can do it with ring pullers, but it's not as easy and they might wear out. Shouldn't damage the caps, though.
If you remove the springs, click leaves and sliders could it be considered an SKCM mod any more? So, I would definitely stay with just swapping the click leaf. Just for the fun of it, you could try it with click-modded orange or salmon leaves.
On that last point, I wonder if a day will come when someone click-mods SKCM Green :))
@E3E: When you say, "Chyros found that you cannot click mod the switches" I presume you talking about SKCM Green Alps and not SKCM Brown Alps.
Although the tactile "leaf" (tactile assembly) in SMCM Brown Alps switches is a very different design from the actual click leaves in SKCM Blue or White Alps or Matias Click switches, I've found that you can swap out the tactile assembly in SKCM Brown Alps with a click leaf from one of the other clicky switches and get a clicky Brown Alps switch.
However, I am still undecided about which of the swappable components (swappable in a non-desoldered switch) to use in order to convert Brown Alps to something closely resembling the sound and feel of SMCM Blue Alps.
I am typing on Brown Alps now, and although I appreciate the strong and precise tactility, these switches can be fatiguing.
Oh, yes, yes. I was talking about SKCM Green because it does have a simple metal leaf as opposed to the two part plastic plate/leaf spring assembly that SKCM Brown has. Usually when I hear of someone click modding something, I think that they mean snipping the legs off of a tactile leaf to make it clicky.
Swapping in click leaves from clicky switches should work just fine. The browns don't have a flat surface like most other switch tops do for the click leaf to slap against, but I don't see that really changing anything.
If you want to get an SKCM Blue feel out of SKCM Brown, I'd suggest just using blue click leaves. If you're trying to look for something similar but without having to use blue leaves, then I'd say use SKCM White leaves.
I soldered in SKCM White switches on a Xerox 6085 that I received in parts from MAR82 to send to Wingpad for testing, and I was very surprised at how nice it felt. It could be the chassis, but I had to pull out a vintage SKCM Blue board to compare because I was surprised at how nice the switches felt.
Thanks. Flattening the legs on a tactile leaf might not be reversible owing to metal fatigue.
Oh, yes, yes. I was talking about SKCM Green because it does have a simple metal leaf as opposed to the two part plastic plate/leaf spring assembly that SKCM Brown has. Usually when I hear of someone click modding something, I think that they mean snipping the legs off of a tactile leaf to make it clicky.
Swapping in click leaves from clicky switches should work just fine. The browns don't have a flat surface like most other switch tops do for the click leaf to slap against, but I don't see that really changing anything.
If you want to get an SKCM Blue feel out of SKCM Brown, I'd suggest just using blue click leaves. If you're trying to look for something similar but without having to use blue leaves, then I'd say use SKCM White leaves.
I soldered in SKCM White switches on a Xerox 6085 that I received in parts from MAR82 to send to Wingpad for testing, and I was very surprised at how nice it felt. It could be the chassis, but I had to pull out a vintage SKCM Blue board to compare because I was surprised at how nice the switches felt.
The two ALPs tactile boards that I click modded, rather than snipping the leaves, I simply used a flat head screwdriver to flatten the legs. Both of the boards have a subtle, quiet click. This mod is potentially reversible. The only other SKCM ALPs that I have to compare were SKCM Whites from a previously owned Northgate Omnikey. The click was certainly louder. I also had a board with simplified ALPs clones (alps.tw Type OA2), and the click on these were louder as well.
I'm currently using an AEK 2 with Salmons that I left stock and particularly enjoy.
(Attachment Link)
Finished. Thread to come.
Hint:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ue55bwJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oYhKkHJ.jpg)
I know what you mean, but imo I would like to use as many spherical caps as possible. Plus it cuts down on the profiles clashing.Finished. Thread to come.
Hint:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ue55bwJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oYhKkHJ.jpg)
Personally, I'd think it'd be best to use the WoB caps for the mods and keep the Canon caps to alpha numerical keys for a more well-rounded look. It's a shame there's no full spherical ANSI sets for Alps. I hope to change this by sculpting some mods, though they're going to be in the profile of the PBT C Itoh caps first.
These caps don't look as deeply scooped as the Multistation caps. Please do a close comparison yourself to tell me if this is true or not, but the Multistation caps have an almost diamond-like scoop that you can feel and see, especially on the homing keys.
I'm not seeing that with these.
I know what you mean, but imo I would like to use as many spherical caps as possible. Plus it cuts down on the profiles clashing.Finished. Thread to come.
Hint:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ue55bwJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oYhKkHJ.jpg)
Personally, I'd think it'd be best to use the WoB caps for the mods and keep the Canon caps to alpha numerical keys for a more well-rounded look. It's a shame there's no full spherical ANSI sets for Alps. I hope to change this by sculpting some mods, though they're going to be in the profile of the PBT C Itoh caps first.
These caps don't look as deeply scooped as the Multistation caps. Please do a close comparison yourself to tell me if this is true or not, but the Multistation caps have an almost diamond-like scoop that you can feel and see, especially on the homing keys.
I'm not seeing that with these.
Take a look at my thread, I made a comparison there. It's definitely not the same profile. The homing keys on these aren't any different than the other caps, no extra scooping or bar/nubs. Comparing them I would have to agree with you. The Canon caps still have some scoop but not as much as the Multistation caps.
Here is a profile comparison. The Canon caps are more steeply angled like I mentioned earlier.
Bottom row (Z etc)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YMZHUd6.jpg)
Middle row (A etc)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UBvfvAD.jpg)
Top row (tilde etc)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5ttJBfu.jpg)
Does changing springs in Blue alps change the weight of it? Or does the force to get the click stay the same :/
It's interesting that there were so many different cap profiles for Alps, I mean in sphericals alone, or spherical-like, we have the Multistation, Canon, CIE/C.Itoh, ICL One Per Desk, Yamaha MSX, Bondwell, and Panasonic Electronic Typing Station caps as far as I know, with many of them being completely different profiles.
The ICL caps are hi pro but rather flat with incredibly shallow scooping. The Bondwell caps are definitely the same profile as the Panasonic's, which is uniform and practically flat.
The Yamaha MSX computers have so many variations, even some in Arabic and Cyrillic. I have no idea if they're standard in terms of sculpted profile among all of the variations or not. The Arabic one on eBay lately reminded me of the ICL caps. Hi pro but flat looking.
Then of course we have the Multistation. Sculpted alphanum grid and mods, but everything else is uniform. Unique profile. Deeply scooped. Even deeper homing keys.
Then the Canon typewriter caps. Sculpted hi pro with a unique profile, no homing scoops, and shallower scooping than the Multistation's caps.
The CIE Terminals/C.Itoh sphericals seem to be the only PBT set out there, with all others being ABS doubleshots. Sculpted hi pro, but also with a unique profile that has a less swept back top row than other hi pro caps. Deep dish homing keys. Scooping is not as deep as the multistation, but not as shallow as the ICL One Per Desk caps.
If I had to describe it, the C.Itoh scooping is gentle, but pleasant. The homing scoops are as deep as the Multistation's normal scooping, which is to say that the Multistations are crazy scooped!
• I'd say the C.Itoh caps go best with SKCM Browns and Greens, but they also felt nice on the SKCL Striped Ambers I played with. Overall, PBT is best with tactile switches from my experience
• The Hi Pro ABS caps go really well with SKCM Ambers and I'd say they'd also go well with linears too. I'd say cylindrical caps overall go better on your ordinary clicky switches like SKCM Blue and White.
I feel like the deeper scooping really focuses the feel of the switch onto your finger tips as well, which is great for some switches.
I also want to say that I did not like the ICL One Per Desk caps much in terms of feel. They look great, but high profile key caps without much of a scoop at all feel pretty... Underwhelming.
Speaking of keycaps are DSA the lowest profile caps you can get for Alps? If yes, what would be 2nd place?
could you take a picture from underneath? Also what vintage boards did you get those caps from?I believe that the spherical cap is from a vintage bondwell laptop, and the cylindrical cap is from another old laptop. If youre interested, I have a set of the cylindrical uniform profile caps, but you would need DSA mods as its a weird ass layout.
could you take a picture from underneath? Also what vintage boards did you get those caps from?
I can at least add one more about forgotten low profile key caps for Alps switches (thanks for the help of alienman82!). They are of a quite low profile and probably sculpted differently for each row if I am not mistaken.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RjNBaPc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tG0IC7f.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9T6TEJq.jpg)
(I'll post something about this keyboard when I have time.)
could you take a picture from underneath? Also what vintage boards did you get those caps from?
Sure. I've included some more examples of the uniform cylindrical profile as well:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u2ratPJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/olY2yoT.jpg)
from left to right
Top: DSA Infinity Alps PBT, Bondwell PRO 8T (ABS)
Bottom: Xerox 6085/DocuTech STOP key (ABS), Sharp PA 1000 doubleshot ABS, Sharp PA 1000 alternate version, Unknown Chinese laptop/phone board (PBT), Xerox 6085/Docutech function column keys (PBT).
The Chinese board has only been seen in PCB form so I have no idea what it came from.
Also note that the DocuTech and 6085 only use this profile for the left-hand function column and nothing else.
The low profile caps of AT&T PC 7300 look real nice too:Show Image(http://oldcomputers.net/pics/att-unix-pc-left.jpg)
I can at least add one more about forgotten low profile key caps for Alps switches (thanks for the help of alienman82!). They are of a quite low profile and probably sculpted differently for each row if I am not mistaken. It intrigues me where all the tooling for these caps with now 'exotic' profiles have gone.I can get you a profile shot of these caps, I have them on my 60% right now. they are awesome caps, with brown doubleshot lettering and the strangest homing bumps ive ever seen.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RjNBaPc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tG0IC7f.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9T6TEJq.jpg)
(I'll post something about this keyboard when I have time.)
I can at least add one more about forgotten low profile key caps for Alps switches (thanks for the help of alienman82!). They are of a quite low profile and probably sculpted differently for each row if I am not mistaken. It intrigues me where all the tooling for these caps with now 'exotic' profiles have gone.I can get you a profile shot of these caps, I have them on my 60% right now. they are awesome caps, with brown doubleshot lettering and the strangest homing bumps ive ever seen.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RjNBaPc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tG0IC7f.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9T6TEJq.jpg)
(I'll post something about this keyboard when I have time.)
I can at least add one more about forgotten low profile key caps for Alps switches (thanks for the help of alienman82!). They are of a quite low profile and probably sculpted differently for each row if I am not mistaken. It intrigues me where all the tooling for these caps with now 'exotic' profiles have gone.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RjNBaPc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tG0IC7f.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9T6TEJq.jpg)
(I'll post something about this keyboard when I have time.)
Forgot about those pictures I took :D
That board was cool, glad I was able to grab one for my VE.A build. :) Pays to be a proxy :p :p
french?
Alps switches: To Lube or Not to Lube?
Apparently, some SKCM Alps switches had some kind of dry lube applied to the sliders at the factory. This has been reported for Blue, Brown, Orange, and early-model White Alps. Later White Alps sliders were presumably made with a more slippery plastic that did not require lubrication.
So, if you can find Blue, Brown, Orange, or White Alps in pristine condition, it would probably be better not to clean or lube the switches.
If the switches are not pristine and require cleaning, then cleaning alone should be fine for later-model White Alps.
However, if you clean Blue, Brown, Orange, or early-model White Alps, it might be good to lube the sliders. Several people have warned against using non-dry lube (oils or greases). This leaves dry lubes, such as molybdenum disulfide or PTFE. Any recommendations on how to apply dry lubes to sliders to ensure bonding of the lube to the plastic and to ensure that the lube is applied evenly?
Cleaning ANY Alps switch is completely fine, and recommended. Lube is not needed. Its extra work for little to no reward unless in extreme cases like me. Ultrasonic should ONLY be reserved for switch tops unless of extreme cases like me.I really disagree here. If there's nothing wrong with them, it's much better to leave them as they are, in my experience.
Chyros, it seems that the only Alps switches that fall into your hands are in pristine condition! ;)Cleaning ANY Alps switch is completely fine, and recommended. Lube is not needed. Its extra work for little to no reward unless in extreme cases like me. Ultrasonic should ONLY be reserved for switch tops unless of extreme cases like me.I really disagree here. If there's nothing wrong with them, it's much better to leave them as they are, in my experience.
Either pristine or unsalvageably bad, yeah that's actually fairly accurate xD .Chyros, it seems that the only Alps switches that fall into your hands are in pristine condition! ;)Cleaning ANY Alps switch is completely fine, and recommended. Lube is not needed. Its extra work for little to no reward unless in extreme cases like me. Ultrasonic should ONLY be reserved for switch tops unless of extreme cases like me.I really disagree here. If there's nothing wrong with them, it's much better to leave them as they are, in my experience.
<snip>Yes, I agree that the top housing is quite important, at least as a partial determinant of the sound of an Alps switch. I first noticed this with my current favorite chassis for Alps, the Northgate Omnikey 101. I had restored one of these that I liked very much. I thought I would save myself the trouble of extensive cleaning and refurbishing by finding one of these boards in what I would imagine to be Chyros-approved pristine condition. When I did so, I found that I didn't like the sound at all -- it was rattly compared to the older, originally dirtier Northgate. As far as I could determine, the difference was that the older board had the Pine (slits) top housings, whereas the newer board had the Bamboo (no slits) top housings.
<snip>
I personally feel that the largest contributor to feel and smoothness is the top housing, but because the older sliders relied on dry lube, I would not wash them. This makes me curious to try new sliders in old gen switches. Like younger SKCM White sliders in SKCM Blue housings.
<snip>
<snip>
<snip>
Cleaning ANY Alps switch is completely fine, and recommended. Lube is not needed. Its extra work for little to no reward unless in extreme cases like me. Ultrasonic should ONLY be reserved for switch tops unless of extreme cases like me.I really disagree here. If there's nothing wrong with them, it's much better to leave them as they are, in my experience.
<snip>Yes, I agree that the top housing is quite important, at least as a partial determinant of the sound of an Alps switch. I first noticed this with my current favorite chassis for Alps, the Northgate Omnikey 101. I had restored one of these that I liked very much. I thought I would save myself the trouble of extensive cleaning and refurbishing by finding one of these boards in what I would imagine to be Chyros-approved pristine condition. When I did so, I found that I didn't like the sound at all -- it was rattly compared to the older, originally dirtier Northgate. As far as I could determine, the difference was that the older board had the Pine (slits) top housings, whereas the newer board had the Bamboo (no slits) top housings.
<snip>
I personally feel that the largest contributor to feel and smoothness is the top housing, but because the older sliders relied on dry lube, I would not wash them. This makes me curious to try new sliders in old gen switches. Like younger SKCM White sliders in SKCM Blue housings.
<snip>
<snip>
<snip>
I've also been tempted to try later-model White Alps sliders in other types of Alps switches, because presumably the later-model White Alps sliders are made of a slipperier plastic that does not require additional lubrication. However, I've noticed subtle differences in the construction of White Alps sliders compared to, say, Blue Alps sliders. The spring peg in the White Alps sliders appears to be a bit thicker and longer than the spring peg in Blue Alps sliders.
Smexy :p No more tree logo!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLxQ0Mp.jpg)
Thanks so much to itzmeluigi for the free Zenith Z-150 parts! Dyesub caps, SKCL Cream, SKCL Green LEDs and the black XT badge.
Also found this very interesting. I have never seen this before on SKCL/SKCM. I thought only SKCC's had this feature:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/64ecGQp.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yrkay3w.jpg?1)
some sort of protective coating around the pins on the switchplate. some of the switches I got from taobao had it, but they had a clear coating instead of red.Smexy :p No more tree logo!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLxQ0Mp.jpg)
Thanks so much to itzmeluigi for the free Zenith Z-150 parts! Dyesub caps, SKCL Cream, SKCL Green LEDs and the black XT badge.
Also found this very interesting. I have never seen this before on SKCL/SKCM. I thought only SKCC's had this feature:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/64ecGQp.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yrkay3w.jpg?1)
Ahh, something I'm actually not familiar with. What is that? The red bit showing through the switch?
some sort of protective coating around the pins on the switchplate. some of the switches I got from taobao had it, but they had a clear coating instead of red.
I had that on some of my SKCM/SKCL switches, can't remember which exactly, but I think they were blues.
some sort of protective coating around the pins on the switchplate. some of the switches I got from taobao had it, but they had a clear coating instead of red.
some sort of protective coating around the pins on the switchplate. some of the switches I got from taobao had it, but they had a clear coating instead of red.
Oh, I see. Interesting. Seems like it might've been to protect the plastic from deformation during the soldering process if there's too much heat.
That's one thing I've never seen before!
Smexy :p No more tree logo!I had been wondering about this for a while, so does the black XT badge fit the ZKB-2 perfectly then? Did you sand off the original lettering and stuck the XT badge on, or did you do something different with it? It looks gorgeous, I might try and do it as well!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLxQ0Mp.jpg)
Thanks so much to itzmeluigi for the free Zenith Z-150 parts! Dyesub caps, SKCL Cream, SKCL Green LEDs and the black XT badge.
Also found this very interesting. I have never seen this before on SKCL/SKCM. I thought only SKCC's had this feature:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/64ecGQp.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yrkay3w.jpg?1)
Smexy :p No more tree logo!I had been wondering about this for a while, so does the black XT badge fit the ZKB-2 perfectly then? Did you sand off the original lettering and stuck the XT badge on, or did you do something different with it? It looks gorgeous, I might try and do it as well!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLxQ0Mp.jpg)
Thanks so much to itzmeluigi for the free Zenith Z-150 parts! Dyesub caps, SKCL Cream, SKCL Green LEDs and the black XT badge.
Also found this very interesting. I have never seen this before on SKCL/SKCM. I thought only SKCC's had this feature:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/64ecGQp.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yrkay3w.jpg?1)
50 Million > 20 MillionA SKCM Amber just failed on the V60 for no reason. Lol why tho ??
Replaced switchplate and its good :thumb:
because it's not cherry
Ah, I see, that makes sense. Noice!Smexy :p No more tree logo!I had been wondering about this for a while, so does the black XT badge fit the ZKB-2 perfectly then? Did you sand off the original lettering and stuck the XT badge on, or did you do something different with it? It looks gorgeous, I might try and do it as well!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLxQ0Mp.jpg)
Thanks so much to itzmeluigi for the free Zenith Z-150 parts! Dyesub caps, SKCL Cream, SKCL Green LEDs and the black XT badge.
Also found this very interesting. I have never seen this before on SKCL/SKCM. I thought only SKCC's had this feature:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/64ecGQp.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yrkay3w.jpg?1)
It fits perfectly. Its the exact size as the ZKB-2 (or 163-73 in my case).
Since its not actually a ZKB-2 the logo doesn't come off so it makes it easier. The original fixed tree logo is simply glued on, so I pried it off and super glued it in place. Pretty easy. Its the same thickness as the original as well so it looks factory. The black XT logo is actually metal while the newer tree logo is plastic too.
You will have a harder time with a ZKB-2 since the logo clips in and such. I was able to ditch the old one entirely! The surface it goes on is smooth plastic and recessed.
Hah....50 Million > 20 MillionA SKCM Amber just failed on the V60 for no reason. Lol why tho ??
Replaced switchplate and its good :thumb:
because it's not cherry
Cherry < Alps
you'll never hit 20 million, so that's invalid.
Cherry >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> alps
Ah, I see, that makes sense. Noice!Smexy :p No more tree logo!I had been wondering about this for a while, so does the black XT badge fit the ZKB-2 perfectly then? Did you sand off the original lettering and stuck the XT badge on, or did you do something different with it? It looks gorgeous, I might try and do it as well!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLxQ0Mp.jpg)
Thanks so much to itzmeluigi for the free Zenith Z-150 parts! Dyesub caps, SKCL Cream, SKCL Green LEDs and the black XT badge.
Also found this very interesting. I have never seen this before on SKCL/SKCM. I thought only SKCC's had this feature:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/64ecGQp.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yrkay3w.jpg?1)
It fits perfectly. Its the exact size as the ZKB-2 (or 163-73 in my case).
Since its not actually a ZKB-2 the logo doesn't come off so it makes it easier. The original fixed tree logo is simply glued on, so I pried it off and super glued it in place. Pretty easy. Its the same thickness as the original as well so it looks factory. The black XT logo is actually metal while the newer tree logo is plastic too.
You will have a harder time with a ZKB-2 since the logo clips in and such. I was able to ditch the old one entirely! The surface it goes on is smooth plastic and recessed.Hah....50 Million > 20 MillionA SKCM Amber just failed on the V60 for no reason. Lol why tho ??
Replaced switchplate and its good :thumb:
because it's not cherry
Cherry < Alps
you'll never hit 20 million, so that's invalid.
Cherry >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> alps
Hahahahaha
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
cherry < topralpsIn fact, browsing through my list of keyboards,Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TTbdg0X.jpg)
Cherry < Alps
Cherry < Topre
Cherry < Space Invaders (all of them)
Cherry < Montereys
Cherry < buckling springs
Cherry < Acers
Cherry < Honeywells
Cherry < Fujitsus
Cherry < some of the better rubber domes
I prefer G80-5000 to the SKCM browns, but they aren't quite the same category, so it's just what I think.Obviously layouts have nothing to do with the actual switches, so that's a pretty moot point. And all this is subjective, of course, you're free to prefer Cherry. But Fujitsus are not generally heavy, they're quite light in fact, and so much better designed than Cherries. And not just Topre, I'd consider quite a lot of good non-capacitive rubber domes better than tactile Cherry switches, because at least good rubber domes are actually tactile whereas the tactility in Cherry switches is very weak and unclean. I'd say MX browns are possibly the worst of a bad bunch, though blacks are quite terrible as well. Shame you don't like clicky switches; I'd say MX blues are by far the best in the MX range.
I never could find an Alps linear board that wasn't in **** shape, and I don't feel like looking, so there aren't any kits really for me to use, and all the old layouts suck.
Fujitsu, honeywell aren't better than Cherry linears, I have both and the one is too damn heavy, the other one has a **** layout
Cherry is less than 'better' rubber domes? You're trying to piss me off :)) :))
Buckling springs are better than Cherry blue, but clicky switches suck
Topre isn't really even mechanical, and if it's the better rubber dome, you're still trying to piss me off :confused: :confused:
but practically speaking, they will last in the same condition from normal use vs alps which in the hands of a random person will become crappy.
Personal preference is personal preference. However, Einstein was once asked if there was such a thing as objective reality. He replied, "Yes, I believe so." In such an objective reality, I like to think that Cherry mx is ranked the lowest of all keyboard switches, with the possible exception of some of the linear switches found in ancient terminal keyboards.I prefer G80-5000 to the SKCM browns, but they aren't quite the same category, so it's just what I think.Obviously layouts have nothing to do with the actual switches, so that's a pretty moot point. And all this is subjective, of course, you're free to prefer Cherry. But Fujitsus are not generally heavy, they're quite light in fact, and so much better designed than Cherries. And not just Topre, I'd consider quite a lot of good non-capacitive rubber domes better than tactile Cherry switches, because at least good rubber domes are actually tactile whereas the tactility in Cherry switches is very weak and unclean. I'd say MX browns are possibly the worst of a bad bunch, though blacks are quite terrible as well. Shame you don't like clicky switches; I'd say MX blues are by far the best in the MX range.
I never could find an Alps linear board that wasn't in **** shape, and I don't feel like looking, so there aren't any kits really for me to use, and all the old layouts suck.
Fujitsu, honeywell aren't better than Cherry linears, I have both and the one is too damn heavy, the other one has a **** layout
Cherry is less than 'better' rubber domes? You're trying to piss me off :)) :))
Buckling springs are better than Cherry blue, but clicky switches suck
Topre isn't really even mechanical, and if it's the better rubber dome, you're still trying to piss me off :confused: :confused:
Cherry < Alps
Cherry < Topre
Cherry < Space Invaders (all of them)
Cherry < Montereys
Cherry < buckling springs
Cherry < Acers
Cherry < Honeywells
Cherry < Fujitsus
Cherry < some of the better rubber domes
Jailhouse green and blue, and ergo clear are not bad.
Yes, their vulnerability to dirt and are Alps' biggest weakness. But that's not what people usually base their idea of keyfeel on. Just like you don't let a bottle of wine turn to vinegar before you assess its taste. Also, Cherries really don't feel all THAT similar - so many people have reported tales of blacks getting beter and blues going worse, for example.
but practically speaking, they will last in the same condition from normal use vs alps which in the hands of a random person will become crappy.
Although this is probably true in general, I have an original Dell AT101W that I got with a Dell system in the late 1990s and used regularly for several years, plenty enough to shine the caps. It has been stored in a clean indoor environment ever since, but not "hermetically sealed" by any means, and it still feels very good.
you're a keyboard enthusiast. I am saying if you search for one today, all the cherry boards of the same part number i.e. all the G80-1800HPU boards are going to be about the same feeling, while all the alps boards of a certain part number will not.
Thought I'd share this here. My TaiHao Dolch arrived today from Aus - shoutout to u/ayybasketballs.The KBP V60MTS-C is a fun board. It really lets you know that you are typing!
Fitted them to my KBP V60 this evening. Holy crap, how bloody tight are these Matias caps.. Honestly thought I was going to break some switches, not looking forward to taking them all off again when/if I get Alpine Winter.
Anyway, enough talking, more clacking:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JqO5RPT.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7Ih5w9M.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rV0LQFo.jpg)
Feel much nicer to type on and the legend/cap colour combo makes typing in dim light much easier. V. happy. Ciao!
Was thinking about selling my modded omnikey, but I just cant bring myself to do it.
Was thinking about selling my modded omnikey, but I just cant bring myself to do it. I really love this board. Forgot how good it was :-\ If anyone really wants it, let me know.
Yeah, I love mine. The ridiculously overbuilt nature of the case gives the switches (in this case, SKCM cream) a spectacular feel. It even rivals my all alu Kustom in weight, which isnt an easy thing to achieve. My only real issue with the board is the center stem caps lock, which makes finding keysets hard. I currently have SGI granite on it, sans the caps lock.
Was thinking about selling my modded omnikey, but I just cant bring myself to do it.
Northgate Omnikey 101 is the endgame Alps keyboard for anybody who prefers straight-ANSI layout.
I have 2: one with excellent blue Alps and one with modded like-new "faux-orange" (long story). Alps keyboards simply don't get any better than that.
mhmmWas thinking about selling my modded omnikey, but I just cant bring myself to do it. I really love this board. Forgot how good it was :-\ If anyone really wants it, let me know.
The one that is full ANSI with the ivory switches I sold you? USDA prime keyboard right there.
Aesthetically, I find them to look industrial but elegant. Nice Japanese design.
Aesthetically, I find them to look industrial but elegant. Nice Japanese design.
Funnily enough in the traditional sense, Japanese aesthetic isn't about being industrial. The Germans on the other hand have everything to with being industrial. :)) After all it's the Germans who fuelled the industrialisation of consumer products in the early 20th century.
Aesthetically, I find them to look industrial but elegant. Nice Japanese design.
Funnily enough in the traditional sense, Japanese aesthetic isn't about being industrial. The Germans on the other hand have everything to with being industrial. :)) After all it's the Germans who fuelled the industrialisation of consumer products in the early 20th century.
That makes sense. What would you say the Japanese aesthetic is about? Elegance, simplicity, complexity; something else entirely? Curious on your thoughts. Yeah, Germans definitely scream industrial to me. I feel like Alps -look- more industrial, but Cherry switches definitely seem more reliable in industrial environments.
Judging by how complex Alps is, I'd say complexity is one aspect, haha.
[...]
Germans is generally much bolder in the actions that they make. Heavy weighted, more dramatic, rigorously mechanical while having some really bold innovations/revolutions here and there. Despite the differences, both traditional German and Japanese cultures seem to value nature highly to the point of having a spiritual place in their life.
Lol wtf, this guy from South Korea is selling 184 'cleaned' SKCM Blue's with a starting bid of only $20 with $20 shipping :eek: http://www.ebay.com/itm/282333242851
I know others are going to find this so I thought I would post it here :-\Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xx5AFnA.jpg)
And this is why I always clean my Alps switches or at least check then. Eww.Were those some of the SKCM creams that you bought from mandrewdavis? because I think I have the cap set that came off those switches. Looks like someone spilled milk (or well... you know) all over them. Gross!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mVLVumI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V4y91bS.jpg)
And this is why I always clean my Alps switches or at least check then. Eww.Were those some of the SKCM creams that you bought from mandrewdavis? because I think I have the cap set that came off those switches. Looks like someone spilled milk (or well... you know) all over them. Gross!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mVLVumI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V4y91bS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LqSQJU9.jpg)
And this is why I always clean my Alps switches or at least check then. Eww.Were those some of the SKCM creams that you bought from mandrewdavis? because I think I have the cap set that came off those switches. Looks like someone spilled milk (or well... you know) all over them. Gross!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mVLVumI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V4y91bS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LqSQJU9.jpg)
Yea, I got them through E3E.
That one was the worst. The rest are fine, just a bit on the housings.
Someone spilled some drink on it probably.If youre a bit short, I can send you a few SKCM creams, I have about 5 boards worth :0
Also accidentally got a SKCM Cream Dampened in the bag of SKCM Creams, oops. Will get another one, just a mix up. Interesting to note about this switch is that it is a rather early one, as well as being in perfect condition. No Alps logo and a black top housing. Comparison:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7wrBYQG.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LzVES6a.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dDG9lF4.jpg)
And this is why I always clean my Alps switches or at least check then. Eww.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mVLVumI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V4y91bS.jpg)
And this is why I always clean my Alps switches or at least check then. Eww.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mVLVumI.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V4y91bS.jpg)
So how are you liking/what are your impressions on the SKCM Browns?
Its ok, noone appreciates you eitherHoly **** man, that was brutal.
haha its just for the jokesIts ok, noone appreciates you eitherHoly **** man, that was brutal.
Found an AEK2 at my parents house! wow. I am about to desolder and remove all the switches. What is the cheapest pcb that will accept alps? I'm hoping for this to cost less than an ADB converter, or else i'll do that and use the apple keycap set and frame.
What are the boards from which I can harvest caps for an HHKB layout? DSA profile and Alpine Winter is not to my liking :| so looking for a donor board.
Thanks for quick reply although nearly all of them lack 1.5 backspace (with legend). It also seems I can't find an IBM on ebay right now, but I do have an Dell AT101 seller in contact.
but I do have an Dell AT101 seller in contact.
I agree! The Omni 101 has a superb solid chassis for bringing out the best in Alps switches. I prefer typing on my Omni 101 with SKCM "Pine" White Alps to typing on other keyboards with SKCM Blue Alps. My "to do" list includes installing Blue Alps in a Northgate Omnikey 101 as part of my asymptotic approach to typing perfection.
Was thinking about selling my modded omnikey, but I just cant bring myself to do it.
Northgate Omnikey 101 is the endgame Alps keyboard for anybody who prefers straight-ANSI layout.
I have 2: one with excellent blue Alps and one with modded like-new "faux-orange" (long story). Alps keyboards simply don't get any better than that.
My "to do" list includes installing Blue Alps in a Northgate Omnikey 101 as part of my asymptotic approach to typing perfection.
Anyone know if IBM 5140s (Convertible PC) really are my best bet for finding brown alps? Is there really not any documented part number for them hidden on some site somewhere? (e.g. like SKCMAQ for white alps)
SKCM browns also were used in the keyboards of a few Xerox machines and Unix 7300 PCs. If you are patient, 5140s can be had on eBay for a good price.Anyone know if IBM 5140s (Convertible PC) really are my best bet for finding brown alps? Is there really not any documented part number for them hidden on some site somewhere? (e.g. like SKCMAQ for white alps)
That and some versions Magnavox VIdeowriter keyboards can come with them. Otherwise some Texas Instrument keyboards came with them but they are pretty rare.
I suppose that when trying to mimic a given switch by doing a "top mod" with swappable parts (top housing, slider, tactile/click leaf, and return spring), it might also be important to have the same type of switch plate (short or long). I think white Alps have short switch plates -- is this correct? What about orange Alps -- do they have short or long switch plates? I am not sure how much difference the switch plate makes in the sound and feel of the switch. However, bamboo vs. pine top housings make a major difference, and of course a tactile vs click leaves do as well.
My "to do" list includes installing Blue Alps in a Northgate Omnikey 101 as part of my asymptotic approach to typing perfection.
I think that I found myself in nearly the same position as you do (although I had already transplanted a set of excellent blue Alps into a clean Omnikey 101 and was extremely pleased with the result) in that I bought a beautiful "like-new" 101 last summer (shortly before I steered you to the one you bought, as I remember).
My problem is that I have a checkered history with de-soldering Northgates and have damaged more than 1 in the process, so I had considerable trepidation at the thought of butchering such a beauty.
The solution was easy, because I wanted an orange tactile version to go along with the clicky one. I had a bag of very nice oranges, but I realized that the only difference between them and the whites were the springs, leaves, and sliders. Being that the whites were essentially new, I did not do any soldering and left the switch bodies in place, removed the tops, and rebuilt them with the orange springs and leaves. Thus, I have a keyboard that is in fact an orange tactile switch version, even though the eyes see what looks like white sliders. I elected to re-use the white sliders since they were newer and better than the orange ones that I had on hand.
If it is just my imagination and clumsiness that makes me think that Northgates are problematic in the soldering department, go ahead. But a set of switch bodies in perfect condition, factory-soldered in place - you might consider just leaving them intact and rebuilding them from the top.
important to have the same type of switch plate (short or long). I think white Alps have short switch plates -- is this correct? What about orange Alps -- do they have short or long switch plates?
Interesting! Perhaps you could update the DT wiki article on SKCM white Alps switches. Under "known variants", the table indicates "unknown" for the type of switch plate in pine white Alps. Your observation attests to the notion that there was a gradual transition in the types of components used as white switches superseded blue, and a further gradual evolution throughout the era of SKCM white Alps switches.
important to have the same type of switch plate (short or long). I think white Alps have short switch plates -- is this correct? What about orange Alps -- do they have short or long switch plates?
All of the switches involved were "pine" and had long switch plates. A random small few of the orange ones had gray instead of white switch plates, but I could not see any actual differences in them.
White Alps came in lots of variants - I have most of them, but not the unbranded variety. They generally used short switchplates, it's only the unbranded ones we're not sure of whether they used short or tall IIRC. Orange Alps always have tall switchplates AFAIK, (almost) always grey.Interesting! Perhaps you could update the DT wiki article on SKCM white Alps switches. Under "known variants", the table indicates "unknown" for the type of switch plate in pine white Alps. Your observation attests to the notion that there was a gradual transition in the types of components used as white switches superseded blue, and a further gradual evolution throughout the era of SKCM white Alps switches.
important to have the same type of switch plate (short or long). I think white Alps have short switch plates -- is this correct? What about orange Alps -- do they have short or long switch plates?
All of the switches involved were "pine" and had long switch plates. A random small few of the orange ones had gray instead of white switch plates, but I could not see any actual differences in them.
My first Alps board, an MTech K104.Yup, very early whites. Some of the best clicky switches, very close to blue alps.
(Attachment Link)
Appears to be one of the unbranded whites?
(Attachment Link)
(ipotato)
My first Alps board, an MTech K104.This is a very nice find. Could you please do us a favour and tell us whether it's got tall or short switchplates? This data is missing from the wiki :) .
(Attachment Link)
Appears to be one of the unbranded whites?
(Attachment Link)
(ipotato)
Been using my now SKCM Brown SGI Granite for almost a week now and I am loving it. Took a bit to get used to the new weight and tactile bump but i'm pretty used to it at this point. My fingers don't get tired out with these, except maybe sometimes when i'm holding down up arrow playing a game or something :pI had SKCM Brown Alps in my custom 60%, but they felt harsh on the fingers after a while. I think this was partly due to the small unyielding stainless steel plate. The switches probably feel better in a larger board with a somewhat more flexible build. The tactile assembly in Brown Alps provides a nice taut feel in this switch that is unlike any other Alps variety.
SGI PBT + SKCM Brown is so satisfying. The AT101 is a good chassis for the switch as well.
Too bad the spacebar has reyellowed a bit :rolleyes:
Told ya ;) .
Hey guys!
I clearly have to revoke my claim from a few pages ago where I said that blue alps feel just like white alps but a bit better.
Thanks to being desperate and you guys who told me that there is no explanation for my experiences, altough I tried 2 different blue alps boards, I simply went ahead and bought the super expensive Monterey K2AX, which supposedly has flawless switches, from a friend who bought it from ebay.
And I have to say... You were right!
This thing feels absolutely marvelous!
I'm completely addicted to the feel and sound. I'm typing just for the sake of typing again and am angry that real life obligations are hindering me of doing so 24/7 ;D
So now, my favourite boards are custom tkls and I realized I really need one with blue alps.
But at the same time I think it would be a crime to butcher such a rare board just to harvest the switches.
If I buy used blue alps like the mediocre ones I tried before, can I really bring them back to the condition of the ones I am typing right now?
Or is the statement that "every alps switch can be brought back" not completely correct?
Totally worth it man!
But damn. So that plan most likely falls through.
Which is ok, but I'm already getting scared of what I am going to do after the ones I have right now don't feel as good anymore. :))
Luckily we got an ultrasonic cleaner for hobbyists somewhere in the house. Going to try it out with a badge of white and orange Alps first.
But don't expect any news about that for a few weeks. I'm too busy typing :p
Totally worth it man!
But damn. So that plan most likely falls through.
Which is ok, but I'm already getting scared of what I am going to do after the ones I have right now don't feel as good anymore. :))
Luckily we got an ultrasonic cleaner for hobbyists somewhere in the house. Going to try it out with a badge of white and orange Alps first.
But don't expect any news about that for a few weeks. I'm too busy typing :p
My first Alps board, an MTech K104.This is a very nice find. Could you please do us a favour and tell us whether it's got tall or short switchplates? This data is missing from the wiki :) .
(Attachment Link)
Appears to be one of the unbranded whites?
(Attachment Link)
(ipotato)
My first Alps board, an MTech K104.This is a very nice find. Could you please do us a favour and tell us whether it's got tall or short switchplates? This data is missing from the wiki :) .
(Attachment Link)
Appears to be one of the unbranded whites?
(Attachment Link)
(ipotato)
To my untrained eye it appears to be a short one.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
If I need to desolder a switch for further investigation or even measurements, I am more than willing to.
Hey guys, any advice for someone about to do their first AEK2 USB conversion?
I suppose if you had loose switches, you could sonicate the bottoms (including the switchplates) in a non-aqueous solvent, taking care that is is a "plastic-friendly" solvent (acetone would definitely be out on this score, plus it is highly flammable, making it dangerous to use).Totally worth it man!
But damn. So that plan most likely falls through.
Which is ok, but I'm already getting scared of what I am going to do after the ones I have right now don't feel as good anymore. :))
Luckily we got an ultrasonic cleaner for hobbyists somewhere in the house. Going to try it out with a badge of white and orange Alps first.
But don't expect any news about that for a few weeks. I'm too busy typing :p
Do only the switch tops, that is what really makes the biggest difference. The only other thing would be the switch bottoms but it is a huge pain to remove water from the switchplate.
Aside from issues with the contacts that could probably be remedied with contact cleaner, I don't see any benefit in washing the bottoms. They wouldn't affect feel unless the slider is literally bottoming out on some kind of sticky mess at the bottom of the switch.Sounds reasonable. However, if you are using pressurized contact cleaner on switches that are soldered in place, you end up spraying the switch bottoms as well.
Aside from issues with the contacts that could probably be remedied with contact cleaner, I don't see any benefit in washing the bottoms. They wouldn't affect feel unless the slider is literally bottoming out on some kind of sticky mess at the bottom of the switch.Sounds reasonable. However, if you are using pressurized contact cleaner on switches that are soldered in place, you end up spraying the switch bottoms as well.
The only contact cleaner I have atm is a lubricant as well, so I wouldn't use that on the switch plates.
The only contact cleaner I have atm is a lubricant as well, so I wouldn't use that on the switch plates.
Are we talking about something like De-Oxit? My understanding was that the residue was very slight and electrically neutral.
Thanks again to MattR for the trade:Yes, I tend to go for profile and color symmetry. Whenever possible, I use blanks for mods, partly because I like to remap to a HHKB-like layout and it is very difficult to find the appropriate legends.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GCIpLd6.jpg)
I'm really excited to ultimately top off my Mira build with these sitting on top of SKCL Striped Ambers.
The blue chinese Alphas are so pretty and the Japanese set being used for the F row strangely works, imo. I first had to use a funky F row like that with my Chinese PBT caps, and then the ICL One Per Desk. I'm not so picky about legend accuracy. I'm more picky about profile uniformity.
Thanks again to MattR for the trade:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GCIpLd6.jpg)
I'm really excited to ultimately top off my Mira build with these sitting on top of SKCL Striped Ambers.
The blue chinese Alphas are so pretty and the Japanese set being used for the F row strangely works, imo. I first had to use a funky F row like that with my Chinese PBT caps, and then the ICL One Per Desk. I'm not so picky about legend accuracy. I'm more picky about profile uniformity.
Those look great! Did you retrobright them more after you got them? They were white but those look even whiter.
I have a small regret trading them, but I really had no use for them. The Canon's on SKCM Amber are great, especially in a 60% travel combo. SKCM Browns are fantastic in an SGI too.
Thinking about selling my FK-3001 and buying something else. Any suggestions?Are you interested in a k104 with monterey blues and a really odd case?
Looking at a Monterey K104 w/ tactile SMK's. A SMK board would be interesting let alone a tactile one.
Thinking about selling my FK-3001 and buying something else. Any suggestions?Are you interested in a k104 with monterey blues and a really odd case?
Looking at a Monterey K104 w/ tactile SMK's. A SMK board would be interesting let alone a tactile one.
I would say this qualifies as odd, wouldnt you?Thinking about selling my FK-3001 and buying something else. Any suggestions?Are you interested in a k104 with monterey blues and a really odd case?
Looking at a Monterey K104 w/ tactile SMK's. A SMK board would be interesting let alone a tactile one.
Yes.
What do you mean by odd case?
Own it :D
Solid trade right there. Need to rewire it/make a cable and then ill be perfect as it is quirky. Right now the connector for the cable is connected internally to the printer.
Own it :D
Solid trade right there. Need to rewire it/make a cable and then ill be perfect as it is quirky. Right now the connector for the cable is connected internally to the printer.
One funky keyboard with an LCD for another one. Pretty 1:1, haha.
Yea lol. I didn't see a point with SKCM White when I have the Packard. SMK will bring something new to the table.
Yea lol. I didn't see a point with SKCM White when I have the Packard. SMK will bring something new to the table.
Yeah, SKCM White is pretty irrelevant when you've got a nice board with blues. I did like them in the AZERTY Xerox 6085 I put them in before sending off to Wingpad though, haha.
Yea lol. I didn't see a point with SKCM White when I have the Packard. SMK will bring something new to the table.
Yeah, SKCM White is pretty irrelevant when you've got a nice board with blues. I did like them in the AZERTY Xerox 6085 I put them in before sending off to Wingpad though, haha.
Any updates with that? The Xerox layout doesn't look half bad, not that I can afford the going rate for SKCM greens.
Yea lol. I didn't see a point with SKCM White when I have the Packard. SMK will bring something new to the table.
Yeah, SKCM White is pretty irrelevant when you've got a nice board with blues. I did like them in the AZERTY Xerox 6085 I put them in before sending off to Wingpad though, haha.
Any updates with that? The Xerox layout doesn't look half bad, not that I can afford the going rate for SKCM greens.
I'm pretty heavily biased; I think it's really grown on me. The C.Itoh sphericals go great with SKCM Greens and Browns. It'd be a fun 93 key layout to use!
So far, it's going slow, but Wingpad is digging in. I know the protocol has been mapped out already, so I -think- it's the conversion process that's the big hurdle. Crossing my fingers! I know I'm not the only Xerox 6085/DocuTech owner who actually wants to use them on a modern system.
HouseOfSuffering also helped by lending me the Mouse Trak trackball for the Xerox he managed to get to do some additional testing with along with the standard Xerox optical mouse! Hopefully we'll get support for those too.
Not counting any chickens before they hatch, but I'm hopeful. :)
Sounds great! Haven't heard much from Wingpad around here lately, must be pretty busy. If I recall correctly, he mentioned being in grad school for computer science/engineering.
Yea lol. I didn't see a point with SKCM White when I have the Packard. SMK will bring something new to the table.
Yeah, SKCM White is pretty irrelevant when you've got a nice board with blues. I did like them in the AZERTY Xerox 6085 I put them in before sending off to Wingpad though, haha.
Are the whites really that far off from the blues? I have a couple boards with white clones and a set of original blues in a test plate, but to me I almost like the whites better. The blues are very smooth and quite loud in the clicky department, but after modding the click leaf on one of the sets of white clones I really enjoy the heavy tactile bump with a nice click. I was OK modding the whites as they were cheap and are clone switches, but I don't think I'd want to change blues and possibly lose their value.
Are the blues supposed to be really light and not have much of a tactile bump? I assume that most of that force is put in to bending the leaf down to snap back and not much of it is used to resist the press of the key like tactile switches. Maybe I'll have to get some orange or cream switches and see how they feel compared to the blacks I have......this gets expensive really quickly when you just want to see what the different switches feel like.
skcm whites are easier to find and hence better than blues. Used whites are even better than NOS blues.oh
but who are we kidding, topre beats them all.
Used whites are even better than NOS blues.Alienman is drinking again.
but who are we kidding, topre beats them all.
Used whites are even better than NOS blues.Alienman is drinking again.
Early NOS blues are amazing :pbut who are we kidding, topre beats them all.
NVM he is just trolling.
Yeah no significant differences from later blues other than the switchplate color.Used whites are even better than NOS blues.Alienman is drinking again.
Early NOS blues are amazingbut who are we kidding, topre beats them all.
NVM he is just trolling.
What does 'early' have to do anything w/ SKCM Blue? Makes no difference in Blue's.
I agree. Moreover, as has been stated by various folks in this thread and elsewhere, the overall impression you get from typing is dependent not only on the type of switch, but on the condition of the switch and the chassis in which it is installed. The generation of white Alps matters as well, particularly with respect to the top housing -- the earlier "pine" housings (with slits) is usually regarded as sounding and feeling better than the later "bamboo" (without slits) top housings.Are the whites really that far off from the blues? I have a couple boards with white clones and a set of original blues in a test plate, but to me I almost like the whites better. The blues are very smooth and quite loud in the clicky department, but after modding the click leaf on one of the sets of white clones I really enjoy the heavy tactile bump with a nice click. I was OK modding the whites as they were cheap and are clone switches, but I don't think I'd want to change blues and possibly lose their value.
Are the blues supposed to be really light and not have much of a tactile bump? I assume that most of that force is put in to bending the leaf down to snap back and not much of it is used to resist the press of the key like tactile switches. Maybe I'll have to get some orange or cream switches and see how they feel compared to the blacks I have......this gets expensive really quickly when you just want to see what the different switches feel like.
I think the most important thing to keep in mind is that everything you see here is subjective. If you actually enjoy SKCM Whites more than SKCM Blues, then honestly, that just means that you're lucky because SKCM Whites are so much easier to find, and people aren't competing to try and get some. It sounds like you might actually like SKCM Ambers. I find the click on Ambers to be a little hollow and not as nice as SKCM Blues, but they do have very sharp tactility.
I'd love to buy a set of them again (IIc), but I've not wanted to pay the prices they're going for on eBay lately. Yeah, that's why I try to keep a store of every kind of switch aside from those I really don't care for enough to keep around (really just SKCM Black), so I can always compare. Really, I should've kept black around more to make more comparisons, but I needed the money and they were the most uninteresting switches out of the bunch for me.
Anybody interested in the SKBM (Fukka) Whites?I was considering getting a KBP V60 with Fukka (Fuhua) whites and modifying them, but does anyone know if the top housings are interchangeable with SKCM white Alps switches?
Also, what custom TKLs do you have by the way?
Anybody interested in the SKBM (Fukka) Whites?I was considering getting a KBP V60 with Fukka (Fuhua) whites and modifying them, but does anyone know if the top housings are interchangeable with SKCM white Alps switches?
The V60/V80's are notoriously finicky for desoldering right? Any tips for preventing lifted pads on these? iron temp under 600F? I'm about to do my v80 on Wednesday when the new solder sucker comes in.
I think I will go with a Hasu Alps64 rather than trying to desolder a V60. Now to find a source board for blue Alps that I won't feel too guilty about desoldering . . . .
I think I will go with a Hasu Alps64 rather than trying to desolder a V60. Now to find a source board for blue Alps that I won't feel too guilty about desoldering . . . .
I'd like one too. :P I have boards I could kill for Alps, but customs < quality vintages in my eyes. Unless the boards are really common, relatively speaking, or have no intrigue. Like the Striped Amber and SKCL Brown Tandem terminal keyboards I have aren't spared in the same way I spare the Xeroxes from desoldering, mainly because I... Well, it's subjective, I guess, but I think the Xerox boards are too elegant to desolder like that.
The Tandems were just terminal keyboards and their layout expresses that. IMO, they are better suited to be reborn in something modern and custom. I also enjoy SKCLs a bit more in a modern chassis than I do their original chassis, whereas I can take tactiles and clickies in their original housings just fine.
I mean, linears aren't bad in their original cases, but eh.
I am enjoying my Zenith 163-73, but I am not a fan of linears, so I hybridized the yellow Alps by replacing the top housings with those from white pine Alps, and I added click leaves from white Alps. The result feels very much like blue Alps to me. I like the board so much, I am looking for another one to use at work.I think I will go with a Hasu Alps64 rather than trying to desolder a V60. Now to find a source board for blue Alps that I won't feel too guilty about desoldering . . . .
I'd like one too. :P I have boards I could kill for Alps, but customs < quality vintages in my eyes. Unless the boards are really common, relatively speaking, or have no intrigue. Like the Striped Amber and SKCL Brown Tandem terminal keyboards I have aren't spared in the same way I spare the Xeroxes from desoldering, mainly because I... Well, it's subjective, I guess, but I think the Xerox boards are too elegant to desolder like that.
The Tandems were just terminal keyboards and their layout expresses that. IMO, they are better suited to be reborn in something modern and custom. I also enjoy SKCLs a bit more in a modern chassis than I do their original chassis, whereas I can take tactiles and clickies in their original housings just fine.
I mean, linears aren't bad in their original cases, but eh.
Zenith is the expection though. SKCL Striped Amber is great in them too.
If you're interested Im selling my alps64 with the click modded greens...I am enjoying my Zenith 163-73, but I am not a fan of linears, so I hybridized the yellow Alps by replacing the top housings with those from white pine Alps, and I added click leaves from white Alps. The result feels very much like blue Alps to me. I like the board so much, I am looking for another one to use at work.I think I will go with a Hasu Alps64 rather than trying to desolder a V60. Now to find a source board for blue Alps that I won't feel too guilty about desoldering . . . .
I'd like one too. :P I have boards I could kill for Alps, but customs < quality vintages in my eyes. Unless the boards are really common, relatively speaking, or have no intrigue. Like the Striped Amber and SKCL Brown Tandem terminal keyboards I have aren't spared in the same way I spare the Xeroxes from desoldering, mainly because I... Well, it's subjective, I guess, but I think the Xerox boards are too elegant to desolder like that.
The Tandems were just terminal keyboards and their layout expresses that. IMO, they are better suited to be reborn in something modern and custom. I also enjoy SKCLs a bit more in a modern chassis than I do their original chassis, whereas I can take tactiles and clickies in their original housings just fine.
I mean, linears aren't bad in their original cases, but eh.
Zenith is the expection though. SKCL Striped Amber is great in them too.
If you're interested Im selling my alps64 with the click modded greens...I am enjoying my Zenith 163-73, but I am not a fan of linears, so I hybridized the yellow Alps by replacing the top housings with those from white pine Alps, and I added click leaves from white Alps. The result feels very much like blue Alps to me. I like the board so much, I am looking for another one to use at work.I think I will go with a Hasu Alps64 rather than trying to desolder a V60. Now to find a source board for blue Alps that I won't feel too guilty about desoldering . . . .
I'd like one too. :P I have boards I could kill for Alps, but customs < quality vintages in my eyes. Unless the boards are really common, relatively speaking, or have no intrigue. Like the Striped Amber and SKCL Brown Tandem terminal keyboards I have aren't spared in the same way I spare the Xeroxes from desoldering, mainly because I... Well, it's subjective, I guess, but I think the Xerox boards are too elegant to desolder like that.
The Tandems were just terminal keyboards and their layout expresses that. IMO, they are better suited to be reborn in something modern and custom. I also enjoy SKCLs a bit more in a modern chassis than I do their original chassis, whereas I can take tactiles and clickies in their original housings just fine.
I mean, linears aren't bad in their original cases, but eh.
Zenith is the expection though. SKCL Striped Amber is great in them too.
If you're interested Im selling my alps64 with the click modded greens...I am enjoying my Zenith 163-73, but I am not a fan of linears, so I hybridized the yellow Alps by replacing the top housings with those from white pine Alps, and I added click leaves from white Alps. The result feels very much like blue Alps to me. I like the board so much, I am looking for another one to use at work.I think I will go with a Hasu Alps64 rather than trying to desolder a V60. Now to find a source board for blue Alps that I won't feel too guilty about desoldering . . . .
I'd like one too. :P I have boards I could kill for Alps, but customs < quality vintages in my eyes. Unless the boards are really common, relatively speaking, or have no intrigue. Like the Striped Amber and SKCL Brown Tandem terminal keyboards I have aren't spared in the same way I spare the Xeroxes from desoldering, mainly because I... Well, it's subjective, I guess, but I think the Xerox boards are too elegant to desolder like that.
The Tandems were just terminal keyboards and their layout expresses that. IMO, they are better suited to be reborn in something modern and custom. I also enjoy SKCLs a bit more in a modern chassis than I do their original chassis, whereas I can take tactiles and clickies in their original housings just fine.
I mean, linears aren't bad in their original cases, but eh.
Zenith is the expection though. SKCL Striped Amber is great in them too.
Not a fan of white alps but I click-modded my green alps Z-150 too, makes for a great typing experience!
Also, I am now the proud owner of an SKCL Grey thanks to my new Zenith ZKB-2R! Surprised to find one under the spacebar as it wasn't in the DT Wiki. Too bad its missing an "A" key, here's to hoping someone has a spare? Otherwise I will just harvest the switches and give the chassis away to someone doesn't mind mismatched keycaps.
If you're interested Im selling my alps64 with the click modded greens...MoreZenith is the expection though. SKCL Striped Amber is great in them too.I think I will go with a Hasu Alps64 rather than trying to desolder a V60. Now to find a source board for blue Alps that I won't feel too guilty about desoldering . . . .
I'd like one too. :P I have boards I could kill for Alps, but customs < quality vintages in my eyes. Unless the boards are really common, relatively speaking, or have no intrigue. Like the Striped Amber and SKCL Brown Tandem terminal keyboards I have aren't spared in the same way I spare the Xeroxes from desoldering, mainly because I... Well, it's subjective, I guess, but I think the Xerox boards are too elegant to desolder like that.
The Tandems were just terminal keyboards and their layout expresses that. IMO, they are better suited to be reborn in something modern and custom. I also enjoy SKCLs a bit more in a modern chassis than I do their original chassis, whereas I can take tactiles and clickies in their original housings just fine.
I mean, linears aren't bad in their original cases, but eh.
I am enjoying my Zenith 163-73, but I am not a fan of linears, so I hybridized the yellow Alps by replacing the top housings with those from white pine Alps, and I added click leaves from white Alps. The result feels very much like blue Alps to me. I like the board so much, I am looking for another one to use at work.
Not a fan of white alps but I click-modded my green alps Z-150 too, makes for a great typing experience!
Also, I am now the proud owner of an SKCL Grey thanks to my new Zenith ZKB-2R! Surprised to find one under the spacebar as it wasn't in the DT Wiki. Too bad its missing an "A" key, here's to hoping someone has a spare? Otherwise I will just harvest the switches and give the chassis away to someone doesn't mind mismatched keycaps.
What? Don't do that! ZKB-2's are something to save! Good layout and build quality.
Chryos cries enough about Z-150's being harvested. He would go crazy over a ZKB-2 getting scrapped! :p
What? Don't do that! ZKB-2's are something to save! Good layout and build quality.
Chryos cries enough about Z-150's being harvested. He would go crazy over a ZKB-2 getting scrapped! :p
<snip>The silly right bracket key on my Zenith boards is one of the features that make these boards work for me -- I remap them to a HHKB-esque layout and use the oversized right bracket as my backspace key.
The SKCL Yellows are coming out for a backlit project but I just don't know what to do with the chassis. Its missing 2 keycaps (examples (https://deskthority.net/w/images/1/1f/Zenith_ZKB-2_Alps_SKCL_Green_doubleshot_keycaps.JPG)) and the only ones I have seen to be the same profile are on my obscure Copam K-430 (http://imgur.com/a/MWyZn). As it is now, I can't even get that board to work. Silly 1.5u bracket key.
Due to a shoulder injury from HS wrestling, fullsized layouts are quite uncomfortable so the hope is that someone else can put it to better use, caps and all.
****. I think I'm hooked - I bought a very lightly used M0116 with oranges after having purchased 50 oranges + 50 greens off some guy for $50. The switches I got from him were in pretty good condition, a couple bad ones where e.g. the top housing on one of the greens was cracked and maybe 5 or 6 had the little wings on the tabs that hold the top housing in broken off.Once you try the proper Alps experience, with switches in fantastic condition, you'll never go back :D .
Even in that condition, I realized I probably wouldn't really be buying MX style switches much if at all in the future - but the difference between these like new oranges (actually typing on them in a solid well built keyboard probably adds a good amount to how good they feel) and the ones I bought previously is crazy. Already got an ultrasonic cleaner on the way to salvage as many of the ones I bought as I can, and I've spent more time on eBay in the past 2 days than I have in my life.
AAAAAGGGKK!If you're interested Im selling my alps64 with the click modded greens...I am enjoying my Zenith 163-73, but I am not a fan of linears, so I hybridized the yellow Alps by replacing the top housings with those from white pine Alps, and I added click leaves from white Alps. The result feels very much like blue Alps to me. I like the board so much, I am looking for another one to use at work.I think I will go with a Hasu Alps64 rather than trying to desolder a V60. Now to find a source board for blue Alps that I won't feel too guilty about desoldering . . . .
I'd like one too. :P I have boards I could kill for Alps, but customs < quality vintages in my eyes. Unless the boards are really common, relatively speaking, or have no intrigue. Like the Striped Amber and SKCL Brown Tandem terminal keyboards I have aren't spared in the same way I spare the Xeroxes from desoldering, mainly because I... Well, it's subjective, I guess, but I think the Xerox boards are too elegant to desolder like that.
The Tandems were just terminal keyboards and their layout expresses that. IMO, they are better suited to be reborn in something modern and custom. I also enjoy SKCLs a bit more in a modern chassis than I do their original chassis, whereas I can take tactiles and clickies in their original housings just fine.
I mean, linears aren't bad in their original cases, but eh.
Zenith is the expection though. SKCL Striped Amber is great in them too.
Not a fan of white alps but I click-modded my green alps Z-150 too, makes for a great typing experience!
Also, I am now the proud owner of an SKCL Grey thanks to my new Zenith ZKB-2R! Surprised to find one under the spacebar as it wasn't in the DT Wiki. Too bad its missing an "A" key, here's to hoping someone has a spare? Otherwise I will just harvest the switches and give the chassis away to someone doesn't mind mismatched keycaps.
What? Don't do that! ZKB-2's are something to save! Good layout and build quality.
Chryos cries enough about Z-150's being harvested. He would go crazy over a ZKB-2 getting scrapped! :p
****. I think I'm hooked - I bought a very lightly used M0116 with oranges after having purchased 50 oranges + 50 greens off some guy for $50. The switches I got from him were in pretty good condition, a couple bad ones where e.g. the top housing on one of the greens was cracked and maybe 5 or 6 had the little wings on the tabs that hold the top housing in broken off.
Even in that condition, I realized I probably wouldn't really be buying MX style switches much if at all in the future - but the difference between these like new oranges (actually typing on them in a solid well built keyboard probably adds a good amount to how good they feel) and the ones I bought previously is crazy. Already got an ultrasonic cleaner on the way to salvage as many of the ones I bought as I can, and I've spent more time on eBay in the past 2 days than I have in my life.
If you're interested Im selling my alps64 with the click modded greens...MoreZenith is the expection though. SKCL Striped Amber is great in them too.I think I will go with a Hasu Alps64 rather than trying to desolder a V60. Now to find a source board for blue Alps that I won't feel too guilty about desoldering . . . .
I'd like one too. :P I have boards I could kill for Alps, but customs < quality vintages in my eyes. Unless the boards are really common, relatively speaking, or have no intrigue. Like the Striped Amber and SKCL Brown Tandem terminal keyboards I have aren't spared in the same way I spare the Xeroxes from desoldering, mainly because I... Well, it's subjective, I guess, but I think the Xerox boards are too elegant to desolder like that.
The Tandems were just terminal keyboards and their layout expresses that. IMO, they are better suited to be reborn in something modern and custom. I also enjoy SKCLs a bit more in a modern chassis than I do their original chassis, whereas I can take tactiles and clickies in their original housings just fine.
I mean, linears aren't bad in their original cases, but eh.
I am enjoying my Zenith 163-73, but I am not a fan of linears, so I hybridized the yellow Alps by replacing the top housings with those from white pine Alps, and I added click leaves from white Alps. The result feels very much like blue Alps to me. I like the board so much, I am looking for another one to use at work.
Not a fan of white alps but I click-modded my green alps Z-150 too, makes for a great typing experience!
Also, I am now the proud owner of an SKCL Grey thanks to my new Zenith ZKB-2R! Surprised to find one under the spacebar as it wasn't in the DT Wiki. Too bad its missing an "A" key, here's to hoping someone has a spare? Otherwise I will just harvest the switches and give the chassis away to someone doesn't mind mismatched keycaps.
What? Don't do that! ZKB-2's are something to save! Good layout and build quality.
Chryos cries enough about Z-150's being harvested. He would go crazy over a ZKB-2 getting scrapped! :p
The SKCL Yellows are coming out for a backlit project but I just don't know what to do with the chassis. Its missing 2 keycaps (examples (https://deskthority.net/w/images/1/1f/Zenith_ZKB-2_Alps_SKCL_Green_doubleshot_keycaps.JPG)) and the only ones I have seen to be the same profile are on my obscure Copam K-430 (http://imgur.com/a/MWyZn). As it is now, I can't even get that board to work. Silly 1.5u bracket key.
Due to a shoulder injury from HS wrestling, fullsized layouts are quite uncomfortable so the hope is that someone else can put it to better use, caps and all.
I had a cap set from that board that I gave away, shame about the timing.
I had a cap set from that board that I gave away, shame about the timing.
Oopss... that seems to be fate.
See what I'll get at the end for this board.
Of course, I hope there'll be the PBT caps from some XT-version Z-150 that has already been harvested from.
But in general, I'm not supporting to harvest Z-150 if it is of good condition, it's a cool looking sturdy board with layout that fits modern computing use.
I had a cap set from that board that I gave away, shame about the timing.
Oopss... that seems to be fate.
See what I'll get at the end for this board.
Of course, I hope there'll be the PBT caps from some XT-version Z-150 that has already been harvested from.
But in general, I'm not supporting to harvest Z-150 if it is of good condition, it's a cool looking sturdy board with layout that fits modern computing use.
It doesn't look to be in very good condition. I have an entire ABS doubleshot capset from my XT Z-150, however (no, not all of them had PBT, only early version).
How rare is a Lexmark-branded Model M, considering Mattr traded one for the SKCL Striped Amber keyboard?not that rare, he just needed one to finish off his lexmark collection
How rare is a Lexmark-branded Model M, considering Mattr traded one for the SKCL Striped Amber keyboard?not that rare, he just needed one to finish off his lexmark collection
How rare is a Lexmark-branded Model M, considering Mattr traded one for the SKCL Striped Amber keyboard?
I'll sell you mine.Maybe if I hadn't already tried Capacitive Buckling Springs. Asking since I saw one on Great Finds for under $50 shipped.
How rare is a Lexmark-branded Model M, considering Mattr traded one for the SKCL Striped Amber keyboard?
Yeah, honestly we both kind of lucked out with those.
How rare is a Lexmark-branded Model M, considering Mattr traded one for the SKCL Striped Amber keyboard?
Yeah, honestly we both kind of lucked out with those.
I hope this is the right place to post this. My AEK2 is all cleaned up and ready to be USB converted with a Teensy.
Only thing, a little lost on how the default Teensy config would work on Windows/Linux... will the alt/option key work as the windows key, control as control and apple as alt?
I hope this is the right place to post this. My AEK2 is all cleaned up and ready to be USB converted with a Teensy.
Only thing, a little lost on how the default Teensy config would work on Windows/Linux... will the alt/option key work as the windows key, control as control and apple as alt?
With TMK firmware, control is control, alt/option is alt, and the apple key is Windows/Superkey(Linux). I tested mine on Windows 7/10 and Linux Lite 3.0.
Also remember that other Packard Bell I mentioned a little while back? Well the dudes parents gave it to goodwill before I could get to it :'(
Checked my local stores for it where the guy said it might be, but nothing. RIP, we will never know if the pad printed version had SKCM Blue or White.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/J4FJDKS.jpg)
Also remember that other Packard Bell I mentioned a little while back? Well the dudes parents gave it to goodwill before I could get to it :'(
Checked my local stores for it where the guy said it might be, but nothing. RIP, we will never know if the pad printed version had SKCM Blue or White.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/J4FJDKS.jpg)
That is a shame, what kind of caps are on your Packard Bell?
Also remember that other Packard Bell I mentioned a little while back? Well the dudes parents gave it to goodwill before I could get to it :'(
Checked my local stores for it where the guy said it might be, but nothing. RIP, we will never know if the pad printed version had SKCM Blue or White.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/J4FJDKS.jpg)
That is a shame, what kind of caps are on your Packard Bell?
They're Alps Electric ABS doubleshots, but Mattr said that on this one that was being sold, they were pad printed or something.
Also discovered the Packard Bell has 6NKRO, which is nice. I had been using the Zenith for gaming but its only 2NKRO so it was a bit hard to play.
Also discovered the Packard Bell has 6NKRO, which is nice. I had been using the Zenith for gaming but its only 2NKRO so it was a bit hard to play.
Haha you mean 6KRO. 6 NKRO is like saying it has 6 key, no key rollover. :P
Does the PCB have diodes? Usually 6KRO is a USB limitation. I get full NKRO with my Leading Edge DC-3014. The DocuTechs also have diodes, so I'm really hoping they get converted.
If you use soarer's converter, you should be able to see if it has NKRO. Or try typing "The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog." with both left and right shift keys held and see what you get.
Are there any ADB to PS/2 conversion kits?
Apple Keyboard users: What the f*** do you guys map to the power button? I guess I could use it for mute/unmute if I can't think anything else.
Is there any such thing as an alps blue tactile? (Non clicky)
I'm halfway through desoldering this V80 guys... you werent lying, this is insane. No lifted pads yet... but blisters on my left fingers from pulling hot switches while desoldering the inside of the pcb holes. :mad:
I'm halfway through desoldering this V80 guys... you werent lying, this is insane. No lifted pads yet... but blisters on my left fingers from pulling hot switches while desoldering the inside of the pcb holes. :mad:
I never pulled any switches 'hot' but I made damn sure that there was NO solder left in the through hole and crossed my fingers when pulling the switches. Also pulling them carefully and slowly. Total build time was about 3-4 hours.
Post any pics?
Here is mine desoldered:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AqvTRlN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JiGeal4.jpg)
This is what you don't want, from my first time. That's the inside of the through hole on the leg.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/F1EpvGC.jpg)
Are there any ADB to PS/2 conversion kits?
Apple Keyboard users: What the f*** do you guys map to the power button? I guess I could use it for mute/unmute if I can't think anything else.
Not that I know of, and I don't see the point either.Is there any such thing as an alps blue tactile? (Non clicky)
Nope! That would be unprecedented. Alps has never made a switch with the same color slider and switch top w/ out any differentiating differences like the stripe of SKCL Striped Amber. SKCM Cream/Cream Damp is a noticeably different shade and SKCL Cream is differentiated by the LED cutout for example. A tactile SKCM Blue and a clicky SKCM Blue would look the exact same on the outside.
Pretty sure those NEC Blues are just worn/need work.
Are there any ADB to PS/2 conversion kits?
Apple Keyboard users: What the f*** do you guys map to the power button? I guess I could use it for mute/unmute if I can't think anything else.
Not that I know of, and I don't see the point either.Is there any such thing as an alps blue tactile? (Non clicky)
Nope! That would be unprecedented. Alps has never made a switch with the same color slider and switch top w/ out any differentiating differences like the stripe of SKCL Striped Amber. SKCM Cream/Cream Damp is a noticeably different shade and SKCL Cream is differentiated by the LED cutout for example. A tactile SKCM Blue and a clicky SKCM Blue would look the exact same on the outside.
Pretty sure those NEC Blues are just worn/need work.
NEC tactile blues? All of them are equally tactile and Not clicky. I could've sword I saw the alps logo on the top as well.
He had the NEC 8100 boards, but they had SKCM Blue alps, not NEC switches. :P
lol, looks like you were literally me this weekend. I got the V80 w/ Fukka switches on Friday and desoldered it (truly was a pain in the ass, excessive amounts of flux and tip tinning helped a lot though), had a lifted pad & trace that I fixed with jumpers so all is well now.
Now glorious Orange ALPS TKL with SGI granite / stock keycap mix. I'm sure my orange alps aren't as great as brand new but all things considered I'm extremely happy with this, orange alps feel really great and might have the best sound of any switch I've used.
here's a potato photo.
Looks like it came out well!
For my, well many repairs on my original V60 I as able to find where the hidden traces went, by attaching a wire to the broken through hole, and then with the keyboard connected, tap different switch legs with the other end of the wire to get the correct output. So it ended up as a bunch of wires connecting broken through holes to random pins of other switches :rolleyes:
(I highly recommend opening the first image in a separate window to get a better idea of what I'm talking about)
It looked a little something like this. You can see where for example the left pin of switch 8 connect to the right pin of switch I. And I even had to double up on a couple of switches, for example you can see the left pin of switch U connect to the right pin of switch J, but then you can also see another wire going from the right pin of switch J to the left pin of switch N. You can see other double ups such as the left pin of switch L.
The most amazing part of this mess is that it actually worked.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4tOpLpD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZwMQq6w.jpg)
Indeed. Looks like a snake pit or a telephone switchboard from the 1940s.Looks like it came out well!
For my, well many repairs on my original V60 I as able to find where the hidden traces went, by attaching a wire to the broken through hole, and then with the keyboard connected, tap different switch legs with the other end of the wire to get the correct output. So it ended up as a bunch of wires connecting broken through holes to random pins of other switches :rolleyes:
(I highly recommend opening the first image in a separate window to get a better idea of what I'm talking about)
It looked a little something like this. You can see where for example the left pin of switch 8 connect to the right pin of switch I. And I even had to double up on a couple of switches, for example you can see the left pin of switch U connect to the right pin of switch J, but then you can also see another wire going from the right pin of switch J to the left pin of switch N. You can see other double ups such as the left pin of switch L.
The most amazing part of this mess is that it actually worked.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4tOpLpD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZwMQq6w.jpg)
holy hell lol, and I thought I had it bad. Impressive!
Nice V80 transformation. Where did you source the keycaps?
Looks like it came out well!
For my, well many repairs on my original V60 I as able to find where the hidden traces went, by attaching a wire to the broken through hole, and then with the keyboard connected, tap different switch legs with the other end of the wire to get the correct output. So it ended up as a bunch of wires connecting broken through holes to random pins of other switches :rolleyes:
(I highly recommend opening the first image in a separate window to get a better idea of what I'm talking about)
It looked a little something like this. You can see where for example the left pin of switch 8 connect to the right pin of switch I. And I even had to double up on a couple of switches, for example you can see the left pin of switch U connect to the right pin of switch J, but then you can also see another wire going from the right pin of switch J to the left pin of switch N. You can see other double ups such as the left pin of switch L.
The most amazing part of this mess is that it actually worked.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4tOpLpD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZwMQq6w.jpg)
Nice V80 transformation. Where did you source the keycaps?
I'm not completely sure but the grey kit is a taobao set i think, and the blue modifiers were something else. I bought them, along with the vintage cream dampened switches, from Henz. I would have loved to use more of the blue mods but they have cherry based stabs and the v80 uses something stupid as you can see from my pics.
Nice V80 transformation. Where did you source the keycaps?
I'm not completely sure but the grey kit is a taobao set i think, and the blue modifiers were something else. I bought them, along with the vintage cream dampened switches, from Henz. I would have loved to use more of the blue mods but they have cherry based stabs and the v80 uses something stupid as you can see from my pics.
That would be the Tai Hao Olivette set. :) The light blue keys are bits from the Badwrench Alps DCS Infinity Modifiers kit.
One of the final bits and pieces I've been searching for in terms of switches. Now the only switches I've never used (that we know of) is Alps SKCL Heavy Cream and Alps SKCL Heavy Grey.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/J0ZeUgb.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EGf6jJRg.jpg)
Got this for a crazy deal. Only $23, but the caps are definitely shined a tad. It's interesting. The profile is similar to the C.Itoh PBT cap profile, but the top row is different and the bottom row is more like the ASDF row on the Itoh caps, whereas the Itoh caps' bottom row is the same as the row above it.
The itohs have deep dish homing; these have none. The Multistation caps are definitely unique to both of these profiles.
I'm curious to see if the Yamaha MSX hi pros are more similar to the ICL One Per Desk profile or are unique unto themselves. For now, I'm only looking for interesting caps and cap profiles, especially sphericals.
If its like this it could be either SKCM Cream (which is supposedly heavier than normal Cream) or SKCM Black. Also it has couple of SKCL Greens, and those weird white slider ones.
Either way would be interested in some for my switch collection ;)
Source:
https://deskthority.net/photos-f62/canon-typewriter-keyboards-t4242.html
... The profile is similar to the C.Itoh PBT cap profile, but the top row is different and the bottom row is more like the ASDF row on the Itoh caps, whereas the Itoh caps' bottom row is the same as the row above it.
The itohs have deep dish homing; these have none. The Multistation caps are definitely unique to both of these profiles.
I'm curious to see if the Yamaha MSX hi pros are more similar to the ICL One Per Desk profile or are unique unto themselves...
Got a focus 2001 from my uncle. it's great though too bad it isn't nkro. Is there anyway to mod it for nkro with diodes?
Holy ****, I had NO CLUE it was THIS BIG :eek:
WOWShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/rHcvpH0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dMnd3i5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tQkd9Ga.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZbxtZfF.jpg)
So I took it completely apart, and put it back together. I don't know what to do with it. I really like SMK but the typing angle is too extreme for me and the size is massive. From the pictures I didn't have a clue it was this big. I can't get it going right now since I need to find out the pinout of the PCB to hook up a PS/2 cable I bought.haha sorry, It is a pretty huge board, and I figured the photos showed it well. Those switches are really nice and clean, shining examples of monterey blues. If you want to build a case for it that would be pretty cool!
What do?
I would be loving a normal K104 right now
So I took it completely apart, and put it back together. I don't know what to do with it. I really like SMK but the typing angle is too extreme for me and the size is massive. From the pictures I didn't have a clue it was this big. I can't get it going right now since I need to find out the pinout of the PCB to hook up a PS/2 cable I bought.haha sorry, It is a pretty huge board, and I figured the photos showed it well. Those switches are really nice and clean, shining examples of monterey blues. If you want to build a case for it that would be pretty cool!
What do?
I would be loving a normal K104 right now
BTW, the box I shipped it in was the original box, hopefully the board and box arrived in OK shape. I figured it was packed quite well in that box.
Listing the Monterey, its just ain't for me :( Can't always win I guess. Anyone interested?Sorry you didn't like it :(
I would rate SMK better than SKCM White from my experience. At least the SKCM White i've tried. They might be better in something like an Omnikey or simply better condition switches. Still I would call SMK an underrated switch.
Listing the Monterey, its just ain't for me :( Can't always win I guess. Anyone interested?Sorry you didn't like it :(
I would rate SMK better than SKCM White from my experience. At least the SKCM White i've tried. They might be better in something like an Omnikey or simply better condition switches. Still I would call SMK an underrated switch.
I really like the 3001. I put on thick PBT alphas, the ones from the z150 set you sent me, and that makes the keyfeel sublime. I dont like them quite as much as I like my skcm cream, but the switches in the 3001 are in absolutely awesome condition. I added it to my rotation :)Listing the Monterey, its just ain't for me :( Can't always win I guess. Anyone interested?Sorry you didn't like it :(
I would rate SMK better than SKCM White from my experience. At least the SKCM White i've tried. They might be better in something like an Omnikey or simply better condition switches. Still I would call SMK an underrated switch.
It's fine man, don't worry about it. You win some, and you lose some. It wasn't just the case, the switches are nice but I don't see myself using it even with a normal case. SKCM Blue is just that good lol. This is the same problem I had with the FK-3001.
How you liking it btw?
Excited for my Cherry G80-11800 to come anyway. Unlike my last one this has the rarer thick pbt!
I really like the 3001. I put on thick PBT alphas, the ones from the z150 set you sent me, and that makes the keyfeel sublime. I dont like them quite as much as I like my skcm cream, but the switches in the 3001 are in absolutely awesome condition. I added it to my rotation :)
I bought a Unitek K-155 to try out this whole vintage black dealio. After desoldering close to 10 alps boards and a million bent pins, I thought desoldering a Cherry board would be a piece of cake. After getting all the main pins done, I just noticed that none of them were coming out.
Every switch diodes inside, FML :(
Almost done now, but a full boards worth in-switch-diodes was not what I had in mind for today.
honestly once you're used to bending back the alps pins, they are way easier to desolder than cherry switches especially ones that are PCB-mounted and have diodes.
Cherry sucks, but the switches in the end are nicer. alps is just overall meh.
I bought a Unitek K-155 to try out this whole vintage black dealio. After desoldering close to 10 alps boards and a million bent pins, I thought desoldering a Cherry board would be a piece of cake. After getting all the main pins done, I just noticed that none of them were coming out.
Every switch diodes inside, FML :(
Almost done now, but a full boards worth in-switch-diodes was not what I had in mind for today.
honestly once you're used to bending back the alps pins, they are way easier to desolder than cherry switches especially ones that are PCB-mounted and have diodes.
Cherry sucks, but the switches in the end are nicer. alps is just overall meh.
I bought a Unitek K-155 to try out this whole vintage black dealio. After desoldering close to 10 alps boards and a million bent pins, I thought desoldering a Cherry board would be a piece of cake. After getting all the main pins done, I just noticed that none of them were coming out.
Every switch diodes inside, FML :(
Almost done now, but a full boards worth in-switch-diodes was not what I had in mind for today.
honestly once you're used to bending back the alps pins, they are way easier to desolder than cherry switches especially ones that are PCB-mounted and have diodes.
Cherry sucks, but the switches in the end are nicer. alps is just overall meh.
The new sandblasting finish from lasergist is super good.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HcIxdhN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SLfEXeM.jpg)
The new sandblasting finish from lasergist is super good.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HcIxdhN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SLfEXeM.jpg)
Wow that looks amazing. Orange alps are a great choice, what caps are you going with?
Cherry sucks, but the switches in the end are pretty terrible. alps is just overall great.
This describes the alps experience so well :))
For me SKCL Brown > Vintage Blacks. That's also because I enjoy the shorter throw. I feel like the longer stroke of a Cherry MX switch can also exaggerate smoothness to an extent.
For me SKCL Brown > Vintage Blacks. That's also because I enjoy the shorter throw. I feel like the longer stroke of a Cherry MX switch can also exaggerate smoothness to an extent.
Rarity as I've observed:
SKCL Browns > SKCM Neon Greens > SKCM Browns > SKCL Greens >> MX Vintage Blacks
Of course, in terms of rarity, Striped Ambers and Ambers are above them.
SKCM white might be subdivided into pine and bamboo versions, and there might even be further subcategories (e.g., length of slits in the pine version; type of plastic in the sliders; and presence or absence of dry lubricant).For me SKCL Brown > Vintage Blacks. That's also because I enjoy the shorter throw. I feel like the longer stroke of a Cherry MX switch can also exaggerate smoothness to an extent.
Rarity as I've observed:
SKCL Browns > SKCM Neon Greens > SKCM Browns > SKCL Greens >> MX Vintage Blacks
Of course, in terms of rarity, Striped Ambers and Ambers are above them.
I would replace SKCL Green with SKCM Cream (non damp). SKCL Green isn't actually that rare, but I would call it uncommon.
Common to me is SKCM Black, SKCM Cream Damp and SKCM White.
For me SKCL Brown > Vintage Blacks. That's also because I enjoy the shorter throw. I feel like the longer stroke of a Cherry MX switch can also exaggerate smoothness to an extent.
Rarity as I've observed:
SKCL Browns > SKCM Neon Greens > SKCM Browns > SKCL Greens >> MX Vintage Blacks
Of course, in terms of rarity, Striped Ambers and Ambers are above them.
For me SKCL Brown > Vintage Blacks. That's also because I enjoy the shorter throw. I feel like the longer stroke of a Cherry MX switch can also exaggerate smoothness to an extent.
Rarity as I've observed:
SKCL Browns > SKCM Neon Greens > SKCM Browns > SKCL Greens >> MX Vintage Blacks
Of course, in terms of rarity, Striped Ambers and Ambers are above them.
I would say that there is a split between pine and bamboo SKCM Greens though. I'd place SKCM Green (pine) as a little MORE rare than SKCL Brown, because pine is seldom seen from DocuTechs.
So it'd be like SKCM Green (pine) > SKCL Brown > SKCM Green (bamboo) > SKCL Cream > SKCM Amber > SKCM Brown > SKCM Cream > ??? (it starts getting into the common end here. I'd say SKCM Blue next).
The last three are not necessarily rare in my eyes because there seems to be no shortage of 5140 and Apple IIc computers. I rarely see the Bondwell 8T Pro laptops though. The NeXT boards are thinning out, but Canon Typewriters in the AP _50 series always seem to have SKCM Cream as long as the LED indicator is rectangular.
There's also a rare Sharp keyboard that might be full of SKCL Cream, but I'd say in general that the switch is rare to find in an entire board.
Would you say NOS bamboo white is worse than a good condition old pine white alps switch?I think the context was about relative rarity rather than perceived quality. Regarding your question, it is likely that a NOS or NIB bamboo white Alps will function perfectly with no binding or scratchiness, but (IMO) it will not sound as good as a "good condition" pine white Alps switch and it might not feel as good, either, depending on just how well the old pine white Alps have been preserved. However, especially when it comes to sound, one man's music is another man's noise.
Would you say NOS bamboo white is worse than a good condition old pine white alps switch?
Would you say NOS bamboo white is worse than a good condition old pine white alps switch?
Would you say NOS bamboo white is worse than a good condition old pine white alps switch?
Just my very subjective opinion based on limited experience: no bamboo Alps will be better than its pine counterparts, or I can even say, no bamboo Alps is good. It seems to me whenever the switches on a keyboard feel quite good, it ended up pine switches are in there, and whenever they don't feel so good, and I will see bamboos when I pop a cap. It's not only just the sound to me.
There must be something, because Bloggers in Japan say similar things that pines are superior to bamboos. But one can say some rare bamboos are good, e.g. Neon green bamboos, because not many people have tried them.
There's also a rare Sharp keyboard that might be full of SKCL Cream, but I'd say in general that the switch is rare to find in an entire board.
I had a single SKCL cream that I gave to someone here...
It was the spacebar for a sharp typewriter (from hell btw @mandrewdavis ) LOL...
It was good.
I had a single SKCL cream that I gave to someone here...
It was the spacebar for a sharp typewriter (from hell btw @mandrewdavis ) LOL...
It was good.
Maximum keycap compatibility, stabilizer can be installed both north or south. My 1.75 Shift is actually in still in a bowl full of hydrogen peroxide.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1bDpCl6.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r8Vojje.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vKc8lSz.jpg)
bro that's amazing, but the caps
👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎
Maximum keycap compatibility, stabilizer can be installed both north or south. My 1.75 Shift is actually in still in a bowl full of hydrogen peroxide.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1bDpCl6.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r8Vojje.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vKc8lSz.jpg)
Maximum keycap compatibility, stabilizer can be installed both north or south. My 1.75 Shift is actually in still in a bowl full of hydrogen peroxide.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1bDpCl6.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r8Vojje.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vKc8lSz.jpg)
Excellent combo! I'm planning something similar but am looking to use /u/evangs upcoming DSA Lightcycle ALPS key set. Problem is that it will use MX stabilizers. Does anyone know how the VE.A ALPS plate will work with the proper compatible stabs? Thinking a Costar combo may work? Or perhaps some can design a plate that allows MX stabs?
Excellent combo! I'm planning something similar but am looking to use /u/evangs upcoming DSA Lightcycle ALPS key set. Problem is that it will use MX stabilizers. Does anyone know how the VE.A ALPS plate will work with the proper compatible stabs? Thinking a Costar combo may work? Or perhaps some can design a plate that allows MX stabs?
Excellent combo! I'm planning something similar but am looking to use /u/evangs upcoming DSA Lightcycle ALPS key set. Problem is that it will use MX stabilizers. Does anyone know how the VE.A ALPS plate will work with the proper compatible stabs? Thinking a Costar combo may work? Or perhaps some can design a plate that allows MX stabs?
It's actually a lot simpler than that, you just need the costar inserts
https://deskthority.net/w/images/c/c0/Tulip_ATK_030244_stabiliser_inserts.jpg (https://deskthority.net/w/images/c/c0/Tulip_ATK_030244_stabiliser_inserts.jpg)
Like E3 said, you might run into clearance problem, but that could be fix by re-bending for shorter wire.
Excellent combo! I'm planning something similar but am looking to use /u/evangs upcoming DSA Lightcycle ALPS key set. Problem is that it will use MX stabilizers. Does anyone know how the VE.A ALPS plate will work with the proper compatible stabs? Thinking a Costar combo may work? Or perhaps some can design a plate that allows MX stabs?
It's actually a lot simpler than that, you just need the costar inserts
https://deskthority.net/w/images/c/c0/Tulip_ATK_030244_stabiliser_inserts.jpg (https://deskthority.net/w/images/c/c0/Tulip_ATK_030244_stabiliser_inserts.jpg)
Like E3 said, you might run into clearance problem, but that could be fix by re-bending for shorter wire.
perfect! I'll go ahead to order a few and see which options work best. Thanks :)
Also, is there anyone w/ experience that can install my ALPS holtite sockets in my VE.A PCB w/o killing it? Definitely needs precision drilling
Listing the Monterey, its just ain't for me :( Can't always win I guess. Anyone interested?
I would rate SMK better than SKCM White from my experience. At least the SKCM White i've tried. They might be better in something like an Omnikey or simply better condition switches. Still I would call SMK an underrated switch.
Listing the Monterey, its just ain't for me :( Can't always win I guess. Anyone interested?
I would rate SMK better than SKCM White from my experience. At least the SKCM White i've tried. They might be better in something like an Omnikey or simply better condition switches. Still I would call SMK an underrated switch.
Just got this behemoth today, man is it big. Thanks for the sale Mattr.
With a little toying around I was able to wire the keyboard PCB to an old Dell AT101 PS/2 cable I had laying around (the connector on that cable already fit the connector on the K104 PCB). The pinout, in case anyone else ever needs it, is as follows: 1. Clock 2. Data 3. Ground 4. VCC
I'll play with the typing experience more tomorrow or this weekend, for now I need to finish rebuilding this AEK II on my desk.Show Image(http://I.imgur.com/5Eu2SQG.jpg)
alps make your desk grow mold
alps make your desk grow mold
I spray my Alps with mold remover with 3 months of protection so I don't have to worry about any of that.
I heard it through the grapevine that there was a batch of striped amber boards found recently, but not recognized for what they were, so they ended up in the grinder.damn kids andHere's a pic of a kitten to make y'all feel better.
Either pic embedding is not working, or I forgot how to do that stuff.
fick youI heard it through the grapevine that there was a batch of striped amber boards found recently, but not recognized for what they were, so they ended up in the grinder.damn kids ans their crayons lmaoHere's a pic of a kitten to make y'all feel better.
Either pic embedding is not working, or I forgot how to do that stuff.
ans their speiing!!
I heard it through the grapevine that there was a batch of striped amber boards found recently, but not recognized for what they were, so they ended up in the grinder.Here's a pic of a kitten to make y'all feel better.
Either pic embedding is not working, or I forgot how to do that stuff.
I'll keep it hear-say. But source is very reputable. Scrounging kind of reputable ;)
There is no worst alps! Heathen.I'll keep it hear-say. But source is very reputable. Scrounging kind of reputable ;)
Hmm. Well that sucks. Assuming they were Tandem's. If they knew it was some kind of Alps why would they throw it away? Even the worst Alps is worth keeping in some sort of way.
I'll keep it hear-say. But source is very reputable. Scrounging kind of reputable ;)
Hey guys I've got an idea for a mod for SKCM Blacks that might help the roughness a bit.That's an interesting idea actually. I advocate either linearising black Alps, or clickifying them - the increased tactility makes you shoot past the second tactile bump, so the keyfeel is much cleaner.
A main reason the SKCM Black seem so rough is because it feels like there are two tactile bumps, and the force graph confirms this.Show Image(http://i40.tinypic.com/1z6yujq.gif)
The idea is just to use a Cherry O-ring and wrap it around the slider to reduce the keytravel just enough that it doesn't get past that "second bump". So you end up with a much shorter travel but quieter and less rough feeling tactility.Show Image(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/IMG_0099.jpg)
Hey guys I've got an idea for a mod for SKCM Blacks that might help the roughness a bit.That's an interesting idea actually. I advocate either linearising black Alps, or clickifying them - the increased tactility makes you shoot past the second tactile bump, so the keyfeel is much cleaner.
A main reason the SKCM Black seem so rough is because it feels like there are two tactile bumps, and the force graph confirms this.Show Image(http://i40.tinypic.com/1z6yujq.gif)
The idea is just to use a Cherry O-ring and wrap it around the slider to reduce the keytravel just enough that it doesn't get past that "second bump". So you end up with a much shorter travel but quieter and less rough feeling tactility.Show Image(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/IMG_0099.jpg)
Could work in theory, yes, although it's pretty hard to bend all the leaves in a whole board CONSISTENTLY to the same degree.Hey guys I've got an idea for a mod for SKCM Blacks that might help the roughness a bit.That's an interesting idea actually. I advocate either linearising black Alps, or clickifying them - the increased tactility makes you shoot past the second tactile bump, so the keyfeel is much cleaner.
A main reason the SKCM Black seem so rough is because it feels like there are two tactile bumps, and the force graph confirms this.Show Image(http://i40.tinypic.com/1z6yujq.gif)
The idea is just to use a Cherry O-ring and wrap it around the slider to reduce the keytravel just enough that it doesn't get past that "second bump". So you end up with a much shorter travel but quieter and less rough feeling tactility.Show Image(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/IMG_0099.jpg)
Could you also bend the tactile leaf to increase the tactility and get a similar effect?
The idea is just to use a Cherry O-ring and wrap it around the slider to reduce the keytravel just enough that it doesn't get past that "second bump". So you end up with a much shorter travel but quieter and less rough feeling tactility.
Hey guys I've got an idea for a mod for SKCM Blacks that might help the roughness a bit.[/spoiler]
A main reason the SKCM Black seem so rough is because it feels like there are two tactile bumps, and the force graph confirms this.Show Image(http://i40.tinypic.com/1z6yujq.gif)
The idea is just to use a Cherry O-ring and wrap it around the slider to reduce the keytravel just enough that it doesn't get past that "second bump". So you end up with a much shorter travel but quieter and less rough feeling tactility.Show Image(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/IMG_0099.jpg)
I'll keep it hear-say. But source is very reputable. Scrounging kind of reputable ;)
As that source, I would want to keep quiet too. That is a ton of guilt to be carrying around - OR - IT WAS A BIG CONSPIRACY TO KEEP STRIPED AMBERS SUPER RARE! If Mattr can't have them, nobody can! :mad:
I'll keep it hear-say. But source is very reputable. Scrounging kind of reputable ;)
As that source, I would want to keep quiet too. That is a ton of guilt to be carrying around - OR - IT WAS A BIG CONSPIRACY TO KEEP STRIPED AMBERS SUPER RARE! If Mattr can't have them, nobody can! :mad:
You mean I have them, and nobody (but E3E) can! :P /s
Yes, the possibilities for modded Alps are practically endless!I'll keep it hear-say. But source is very reputable. Scrounging kind of reputable ;)
As that source, I would want to keep quiet too. That is a ton of guilt to be carrying around - OR - IT WAS A BIG CONSPIRACY TO KEEP STRIPED AMBERS SUPER RARE! If Mattr can't have them, nobody can! :mad:
You mean I have them, and nobody (but E3E) can! :P /s
>:D >:D >:D >:D >:DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZFz3YRW.jpg)
You too can have them!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MEzGOQj.jpg)Show Image(http://www.scaryforkids.com/pics/red-crayon.jpg)
Please.
some IIcs have alps, not all. any with a rubber pad wont have alps.You too can have them!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MEzGOQj.jpg)Show Image(http://www.scaryforkids.com/pics/red-crayon.jpg)
Please.
I didn't know the //c has Alps. You never would have known because that god awful rubber pad under the keys that makes every keystroke require something like 1000 grams of force
That explains why i was so taken aback when i saw that. I learned to type on a //c. I will never stop hating it either.some IIcs have alps, not all. any with a rubber pad wont have alps.You too can have them!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MEzGOQj.jpg)Show Image(http://www.scaryforkids.com/pics/red-crayon.jpg)
Please.
I didn't know the //c has Alps. You never would have known because that god awful rubber pad under the keys that makes every keystroke require something like 1000 grams of force
Yes, the possibilities for modded Alps are practically endless!I'll keep it hear-say. But source is very reputable. Scrounging kind of reputable ;)
As that source, I would want to keep quiet too. That is a ton of guilt to be carrying around - OR - IT WAS A BIG CONSPIRACY TO KEEP STRIPED AMBERS SUPER RARE! If Mattr can't have them, nobody can! :mad:
You mean I have them, and nobody (but E3E) can! :P /s
>:D >:D >:D >:D >:DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZFz3YRW.jpg)
(Attachment Link)
You can tell by the back label what switch type it holds. S or non S, copyright dates, and country of manufacture, label type etc.
For some reason i've been craving a AEK II with SKCM Salmon. Right now there aren't any on ebay though :( You can tell by the back label what switch type it holds. S or non S, copyright dates, and country of manufacture, label type etc.
I still got an alps board ;)Nice wrist restShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/A76uO8Z.jpg)
I am actually cleaning the caps tonight, but I wanted to use it a bit more first.
I still got an alps board ;)Nice wrist restShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/A76uO8Z.jpg)
I am actually cleaning the caps tonight, but I wanted to use it a bit more first.
You can tell by the back label what switch type it holds. S or non S, copyright dates, and country of manufacture, label type etc.
I think that those 1989 copyrights are pretty rare.
For some reason i've been craving a AEK II with SKCM Salmon. Right now there aren't any on ebay though :( You can tell by the back label what switch type it holds. S or non S, copyright dates, and country of manufacture, label type etc.
I picked up one recently, and it's sweet. In fact, I'm typing this message with that board. Perhaps it's the novelty, but I put the AEK II with Salmons as my number 2 favorite board after my Model F 122. I'm enjoying the sound and feel. I also have an AEK with Salmons. They're excellent switches.
There's a listing for an AEK with salmons:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272559493798?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272559493798?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
It might be priced somewhat steep given that oranges have gone for less, but then again, the salmons are more rare. Dell AT101's with salmons go for a pretty penny.
Mattr, I have an AEKII with Japanese sublegends on the way. I will let you know when it arrives :thumb:
I actually like the original AEK much more than the AEK II, but I'd never want SKCM Salmons in any of my boards. I'm very much not a fan of that boring switch. It's a shame, since I really like the fish.
There is a chance - it is made in the USA. However, the seller didn't provide a complete photo of the back label, so I can't check for the S.
So you don't like SKCM Orange then? It's only a weight difference really.
Again, no idea. Only pic of the label provided was this:
https://auctions.c.yimg.jp/images.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/image/dr000/auc0301/users/9/2/2/8/hn0912jp-img600x450-1484734670kcbdtk8040.jpg
So you don't like SKCM Orange then? It's only a weight difference really.
I've had multiple Dell AT101s and an AEK with Salmons and they never felt pleasing to me. I like SKCM Oranges, but neither of them are switches I'm head over heels about using. I like SKCM Cream (NeXT) better than either of them.
The lightness of SKCM Orange is an appealing aspect, but I've always felt SKCM Salmons to feel a bit more tactile but also weirdly sterile. Just not a fan of them.
SKCM Creams have a sound that's very much like SKCM Blue but without the click. I'd describe it as "choppy." Sounds like a chop. :P Not all switches have that. I'd say only SKCM Blue and Cream have it so distinctively.
SKCM Cream is the best alps switch hands downAgain, no idea. Only pic of the label provided was this:
https://auctions.c.yimg.jp/images.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/image/dr000/auc0301/users/9/2/2/8/hn0912jp-img600x450-1484734670kcbdtk8040.jpg
Welp, that's SKCM White Damp, you can tell by the new style logo.So you don't like SKCM Orange then? It's only a weight difference really.
I've had multiple Dell AT101s and an AEK with Salmons and they never felt pleasing to me. I like SKCM Oranges, but neither of them are switches I'm head over heels about using. I like SKCM Cream (NeXT) better than either of them.
The lightness of SKCM Orange is an appealing aspect, but I've always felt SKCM Salmons to feel a bit more tactile but also weirdly sterile. Just not a fan of them.
SKCM Creams have a sound that's very much like SKCM Blue but without the click. I'd describe it as "choppy." Sounds like a chop. :P Not all switches have that. I'd say only SKCM Blue and Cream have it so distinctively.
Yea I have to agree with you on the SKCM Cream, it is special and reminds me of SKCM Blue. Orange and Salmon are very similar to me. Must be the weight of SKCM Salmon for you. I do see a odd appeal to the 'sterile' feel of Salmon though.
Mattr, I have an AEKII with Japanese sublegends on the way. I will let you know when it arrives :thumb:
When school starts in a few months I'm going to splurge a bit and get myself a great condition full size board like an FK-2001 and use it as my dedicated typing keyboard.You should, I wrote my entire PhD thesis on a ZKB-2R! :D
Should make writing boring essays much more tolerable!
Of all the vintage keyboards in your extensive arsenal, why did you make the ZKB-2R your weapon of choice for writing your thesis?When school starts in a few months I'm going to splurge a bit and get myself a great condition full size board like an FK-2001 and use it as my dedicated typing keyboard.You should, I wrote my entire PhD thesis on a ZKB-2R! :D
Should make writing boring essays much more tolerable!
I type on it reasonably quickly, and it's fairly silent - I work in an open office, so even just tactile Alps are rather loud. Plus, it has a very accessible layout - although I type faster on my M0116 and Pingmaster, their layouts are just weird enough that it makes a difference in the long run. Besides, it's already quite heavily used, so a bit more use won't matter - I try to keep my best boards a bit pristine. Also, it's got great desk presence. I SO WANT a NIB ZKB-2.Of all the vintage keyboards in your extensive arsenal, why did you make the ZKB-2R your weapon of choice for writing your thesis?When school starts in a few months I'm going to splurge a bit and get myself a great condition full size board like an FK-2001 and use it as my dedicated typing keyboard.You should, I wrote my entire PhD thesis on a ZKB-2R! :D
Should make writing boring essays much more tolerable!
I don't have a ZKB-2 or ZKB-2R, but I have a close relative, the Zenith 163-73. I am typing on it now. This one has been my most successful "click mod" to date. I installed top housings and click leaves from white (pine) Alps. With other Alps keyboards that I have converted from linear or tactile to clicky, I have usually ended up with some flaky switches (intermittently unresponsive or chattering), but all the hybridized switches in the Zenith 163-73 work perfectly.I type on it reasonably quickly, and it's fairly silent - I work in an open office, so even just tactile Alps are rather loud. Plus, it has a very accessible layout - although I type faster on my M0116 and Pingmaster, their layouts are just weird enough that it makes a difference in the long run. Besides, it's already quite heavily used, so a bit more use won't matter - I try to keep my best boards a bit pristine. Also, it's got great desk presence. I SO WANT a NIB ZKB-2.Of all the vintage keyboards in your extensive arsenal, why did you make the ZKB-2R your weapon of choice for writing your thesis?When school starts in a few months I'm going to splurge a bit and get myself a great condition full size board like an FK-2001 and use it as my dedicated typing keyboard.You should, I wrote my entire PhD thesis on a ZKB-2R! :D
Should make writing boring essays much more tolerable!
I still got an alps board ;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/A76uO8Z.jpg)
I am actually cleaning the caps tonight, but I wanted to use it a bit more first.
Perhaps surprisingly because of how relatively common they are, I don't actually own a yellow Alps board, so I couldn't tell anything about them — but, I have to say that green Alps are weighted perfectly, and that really contributes to why I like them so much. They're just light enough that typing on them feels almost effortless, but not light enough that you keep accidentally actuating them. It's sublime. I really wonder how well I'll like yellows, considering that. Would be interesting.I don't have a ZKB-2 or ZKB-2R, but I have a close relative, the Zenith 163-73. I am typing on it now. This one has been my most successful "click mod" to date. I installed top housings and click leaves from white (pine) Alps. With other Alps keyboards that I have converted from linear or tactile to clicky, I have usually ended up with some flaky switches (intermittently unresponsive or chattering), but all the hybridized switches in the Zenith 163-73 work perfectly.I type on it reasonably quickly, and it's fairly silent - I work in an open office, so even just tactile Alps are rather loud. Plus, it has a very accessible layout - although I type faster on my M0116 and Pingmaster, their layouts are just weird enough that it makes a difference in the long run. Besides, it's already quite heavily used, so a bit more use won't matter - I try to keep my best boards a bit pristine. Also, it's got great desk presence. I SO WANT a NIB ZKB-2.Of all the vintage keyboards in your extensive arsenal, why did you make the ZKB-2R your weapon of choice for writing your thesis?When school starts in a few months I'm going to splurge a bit and get myself a great condition full size board like an FK-2001 and use it as my dedicated typing keyboard.You should, I wrote my entire PhD thesis on a ZKB-2R! :D
Should make writing boring essays much more tolerable!
The layout on the Zenith 163-173 also works well for me. I've installed an internal Orihalcon-Soarer converter along with a panel-mount micro-USB connector, and I've done my customary remapping to a HHKB-esque configuration. The split Right Shift is perfect for the Fn key and the supersized Right Bracket serves as the Backspace (Fn+Right Bracket = Right Bracket).
I like typing on the modified Zenith, but in retrospect I think it might have been better to install lighter springs -- I kept the yellow Alps springs, which feel somewhat heavy. I would also like to improve the aesthetics of the board by acquiring a black label Zenith badge to replace the "tree logo" emblem. (However, you were ahead of me advertising for a black badge, so you get first pick if one turns up).
I also don't really need any of the keys outside of the main typing area, and I am most accustomed to using a 60% form factor keyboard. You have exhorted me to bite the bullet and take up soldering again, so I intend to build my own 60% Alps board based on Hasu's Alps64 PCB. I am thinking of using clickified orange Alps for the build.
Very nice. But for only typing I think I prefer some delicious click clack from SKCM Whites!When school starts in a few months I'm going to splurge a bit and get myself a great condition full size board like an FK-2001 and use it as my dedicated typing keyboard.You should, I wrote my entire PhD thesis on a ZKB-2R! :D
Should make writing boring essays much more tolerable!
Some time ago, I purchased an Apple Extended Keyboard from eBay. Today I finally got around to typing on it (typing on it now) after connecting it to my USB hub with a Griffin iMate ADB to USB converter. Despite the relatively high serial number (643257) (and non-yellowed case), this one has orange Alps switches.
Everything works, but I am disappointed by the sound and feel of this keyboard. The sound is overtly hollow and the key action feels clunky. Nevertheless, I am considering giving the board a thorough cleaning and doing a click-mod on the switches by taking out the tactile leaves and replacing them with click leaves from white Alps switches. I might also try padding the case with some silicone foam.
This thing is also BIG. It seems bigger than my Northgate Omnikey 101 -- it is in fact wider, although not quite as deep. Because the upper bezel on the AEK is an unbroken expanse, it gives the impression of being deeper than it is. In any event, after using my HHKB Pro 2 sports car most of the time, typing on the AEK is like driving a 1960 Chevy Impala.
Would it be worth the trouble to refurbish the AEK and click-mod the switches, or would it be better to harvest the switches and caps for use in a custom build?
You could always click-mod the Zenith. I did this with a Zenith 163-73 (same layout as the ZKB-2 and ZKB-2R). The native 163-73 has nice dye-sub PBT keycaps and SKCL yellow Alps switches. I replaced the switch tops with those from SKCM white (pine) Alps and added white Alps click leaves. This is now one of my favorite Alps-switch keyboards.Very nice. But for only typing I think I prefer some delicious click clack from SKCM Whites!When school starts in a few months I'm going to splurge a bit and get myself a great condition full size board like an FK-2001 and use it as my dedicated typing keyboard.You should, I wrote my entire PhD thesis on a ZKB-2R! :D
Should make writing boring essays much more tolerable!
I mean, I have some SKCM Salmons I want to get rid of, so Mattr can always just buy those and then buy the Japanese AEK II and set up a happy compromise, haha.
Sounds better, I agree, but I actually type slower on them. Besides, the office would hold a lynch party if I brought the OmniKey along xD .Very nice. But for only typing I think I prefer some delicious click clack from SKCM Whites!When school starts in a few months I'm going to splurge a bit and get myself a great condition full size board like an FK-2001 and use it as my dedicated typing keyboard.You should, I wrote my entire PhD thesis on a ZKB-2R! :D
Should make writing boring essays much more tolerable!
I mean, I have some SKCM Salmons I want to get rid of, so Mattr can always just buy those and then buy the Japanese AEK II and set up a happy compromise, haha.
How many SKCM Salmons are you talking about? And might I inquire as to their availability to other members? I might be interested in a set of those if it were a full set for the right price.
I don't find that I type slower on clicky or tactile versus linear unless the switches bind.I have a feeling that SKCL Brown feel a lot like Gateron Yellows.
My favorite switches are SKCL Brown overall. I still haven't spent an extensive amount of time with SKCL Striped Ambers though. Still waiting for the Alphas PCB to come in along with some other things.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G3eCPdn.jpg?1)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G3eCPdn.jpg?1)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G3eCPdn.jpg?1)
What took you so long :O
Seriously PBT keycaps only require some soap, some scrubbings, and blow dry in cool heat. All in less than 15 mins.
Anyone have really good condition SKCL Greens here? I purchased a baggy of them a while back, and most of the switches in the bag had a fairly significant tactile bump (not super large or anything, but it was instantly noticeable) just before bottoming out - maybe like 0.2mm before bottom out or something. Tried some more at a meet and was surprised to find that the tactile bump was almost non-existant - you could still tell it was there if you looked for it or pressed the key down pretty slowly but I'm not sure if I would notice it at all typing at full force/speed. What's normal for an SKCL green in really good condition? Visually speaking, both mine and the ones I tried seemed to be in similar condition.
Anyone have really good condition SKCL Greens here? I purchased a baggy of them a while back, and most of the switches in the bag had a fairly significant tactile bump (not super large or anything, but it was instantly noticeable) just before bottoming out - maybe like 0.2mm before bottom out or something. Tried some more at a meet and was surprised to find that the tactile bump was almost non-existant - you could still tell it was there if you looked for it or pressed the key down pretty slowly but I'm not sure if I would notice it at all typing at full force/speed. What's normal for an SKCL green in really good condition? Visually speaking, both mine and the ones I tried seemed to be in similar condition.
Clean them? That's the only reason I can think of.
Or it sounds like their binding a bit.
Anyone have really good condition SKCL Greens here? I purchased a baggy of them a while back, and most of the switches in the bag had a fairly significant tactile bump (not super large or anything, but it was instantly noticeable) just before bottoming out - maybe like 0.2mm before bottom out or something. Tried some more at a meet and was surprised to find that the tactile bump was almost non-existant - you could still tell it was there if you looked for it or pressed the key down pretty slowly but I'm not sure if I would notice it at all typing at full force/speed. What's normal for an SKCL green in really good condition? Visually speaking, both mine and the ones I tried seemed to be in similar condition.
Clean them? That's the only reason I can think of.
Or it sounds like their binding a bit.
So there shouldn't really be a bump of any sort right before bottoming out, then? Damn :/ There's no visible dust/dirt on em or anything, so I can't imagine a bit of dust would cause such a wildly different feel. I did open one of them up and just push back the contact leaf a bit which made it feel like the one I tried at the meetup but I'm not sure how they even got to the state they're currently in anyway - in theory, over time the leaf should be bending back so they become more linear as opposed to the other way around.. maybe whoever I bought em off messed with em?
Anyone have really good condition SKCL Greens here? I purchased a baggy of them a while back, and most of the switches in the bag had a fairly significant tactile bump (not super large or anything, but it was instantly noticeable) just before bottoming out - maybe like 0.2mm before bottom out or something. Tried some more at a meet and was surprised to find that the tactile bump was almost non-existant - you could still tell it was there if you looked for it or pressed the key down pretty slowly but I'm not sure if I would notice it at all typing at full force/speed. What's normal for an SKCL green in really good condition? Visually speaking, both mine and the ones I tried seemed to be in similar condition.
Clean them? That's the only reason I can think of.
Or it sounds like their binding a bit.
So there shouldn't really be a bump of any sort right before bottoming out, then? Damn :/ There's no visible dust/dirt on em or anything, so I can't imagine a bit of dust would cause such a wildly different feel. I did open one of them up and just push back the contact leaf a bit which made it feel like the one I tried at the meetup but I'm not sure how they even got to the state they're currently in anyway - in theory, over time the leaf should be bending back so they become more linear as opposed to the other way around.. maybe whoever I bought em off messed with em?
No, all Alps have a little bump before bottoming out, that's just how it is. The ones at the meetup were probably different feeling b/c they were in a board rather than being loose switches.
Anyone have really good condition SKCL Greens here? I purchased a baggy of them a while back, and most of the switches in the bag had a fairly significant tactile bump (not super large or anything, but it was instantly noticeable) just before bottoming out - maybe like 0.2mm before bottom out or something. Tried some more at a meet and was surprised to find that the tactile bump was almost non-existant - you could still tell it was there if you looked for it or pressed the key down pretty slowly but I'm not sure if I would notice it at all typing at full force/speed. What's normal for an SKCL green in really good condition? Visually speaking, both mine and the ones I tried seemed to be in similar condition.Yeah all Alps have a second smaller tactile bump shortly before bottom out.
So whose the one that bought all these Tandems today and yesterday?!!!?!?!? :eek:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249215551
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249216954
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248410073
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248208848
So whose the one that bought all these Tandems today and yesterday?!!!?!?!? :eek:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249215551
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249216954
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248410073
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248208848
I'm just wondering which ones will have ambers and which ones will have browns. Can't go wrong with buying a Tandem, though seeing the seller slowly raise the price is kind of annoying.
Yea.
Read the Deskthority great interesting finds thread, all caught up now. For those wondering we know 2 of them were had by members but the other two we don't know yet.
Also two are Brown, other two we don't know.
Woo! Excited to get my Striped Amber - now I'm only missing SKCL Cream - assuming my Tandem 6526 comes with Browns. Thanks for the trade!
Sure did! ...after the seller had tripled the price from the ones he originally sold :'(
I still need some SKCM Creams from that NeXt board of yours, by the way! :p
I never thought I'd buy an FK-2001...IT WAS YOU! I was wondering who had managed to kidnap that thing from under me :p .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G7vuIFH.jpg)
...but I did.
I never thought I'd buy an FK-2001...IT WAS YOU! I was wondering who had managed to kidnap that thing from under me :p .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G7vuIFH.jpg)
...but I did.
I never thought I'd buy an FK-2001...Handsome board! (Except for that BAE!).Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G7vuIFH.jpg)
...but I did.
Yeah, ewww, it's terrible, he should sell it to me instead - can't have an embarassingly ugly board like that.I never thought I'd buy an FK-2001...Handsome board! (Except for that BAE!).Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G7vuIFH.jpg)
...but I did.
Yeah, ewww, it's terrible, he should sell it to me instead - can't have an embarassingly ugly board like that.I never thought I'd buy an FK-2001...Handsome board! (Except for that BAE!).Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G7vuIFH.jpg)
...but I did.
Hey man, all is fair in love and keyboards xD . I'll snag one someday :) .Yeah, ewww, it's terrible, he should sell it to me instead - can't have an embarassingly ugly board like that.I never thought I'd buy an FK-2001...Handsome board! (Except for that BAE!).Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G7vuIFH.jpg)
...but I did.
I feel bad now, but I swear, this is the one time I actually message a seller with an offer that they go through with it. I've had so many occasions of "SURE, I'D BE HAPPY TO SELL TO YOU/SELL AT THAT PRICE -- NEVERMIND!!!" One of those was actually on a Focus FK-2001, as I'm sure Unfocused knows (it's fine though haha). Another was on a Packard Bell T9102. I mean, I completely understand letting it go to auction as opposed to taking offers, but it's still frustrating.
I know trying to close auctions early is a little lame, but people are prone to that. I backed out initially from buying it since I felt it was impulsive, but the seller shipped it anyway. xP
So beyond that, there's some interesting things to note so far:
Noting the other user and only documented case of this board on this forum (there was another someone sold here in 2011 with an apparently terribly rusted plate, but pictures hosted on this site beyond a certain year seem to all be broken), there's some differences.
1) His key caps seemed to have been pad printed. These are double shots from Tai Hao. I call them the missing link, since Tai Hao has a modern WoB set but it doesn't have the 7u bottom row included.
2) His board seemed to use clone switches. Mine uses genuine Alps SKCM White switches, pine.
This is strange since my serial number is higher than the one his had. Other than that, there's not too much to note I guess. The cable is in good condition, the board is in good shape. No rust, no heavy shine. Feels good.
Hey man, all is fair in love and keyboards xD . I'll snag one someday :) .
Yeah, ewww, it's terrible, he should sell it to me instead - can't have an embarassingly ugly board like that.I never thought I'd buy an FK-2001...Handsome board! (Except for that BAE!).Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G7vuIFH.jpg)
...but I did.
I feel bad now, but I swear, this is the one time I actually message a seller with an offer that they go through with it. I've had so many occasions of "SURE, I'D BE HAPPY TO SELL TO YOU/SELL AT THAT PRICE -- NEVERMIND!!!" One of those was actually on a Focus FK-2001, as I'm sure Unfocused knows (it's fine though haha). Another was on a Packard Bell T9102. I mean, I completely understand letting it go to auction as opposed to taking offers, but it's still frustrating.
I know trying to close auctions early is a little lame, but people are prone to that. I backed out initially from buying it since I felt it was impulsive, but the seller shipped it anyway. xP
So beyond that, there's some interesting things to note so far:
Noting the other user and only documented case of this board on this forum (there was another someone sold here in 2011 with an apparently terribly rusted plate, but pictures hosted on this site beyond a certain year seem to all be broken), there's some differences.
1) His key caps seemed to have been pad printed. These are double shots from Tai Hao. I call them the missing link, since Tai Hao has a modern WoB set but it doesn't have the 7u bottom row included.
2) His board seemed to use clone switches. Mine uses genuine Alps SKCM White switches, pine.
This is strange since my serial number is higher than the one his had. Other than that, there's not too much to note I guess. The cable is in good condition, the board is in good shape. No rust, no heavy shine. Feels good.
Wait there was a Packard Bell T9102 on ebay? Where?
Welp. looks like the FK-2001 has got some tissues. By that, I mean for some weird reason, the alpha grid is completely borked in terms of response. Like I type and sometimes it doesn't register, sometimes it does. Very unreliable.Sounds like one of the traces is buggered.
The strange part is that the number pad is responsive. What gives? I tried changing the only electrolytic capacitor out. Maybe I'll have to end up buying a normal FK-2001 as a donor if I can't figure this out.
Welp. looks like the FK-2001 has got some tissues. By that, I mean for some weird reason, the alpha grid is completely borked in terms of response. Like I type and sometimes it doesn't register, sometimes it does. Very unreliable.Sounds like one of the traces is buggered.
The strange part is that the number pad is responsive. What gives? I tried changing the only electrolytic capacitor out. Maybe I'll have to end up buying a normal FK-2001 as a donor if I can't figure this out.
I was actually talking to Engicoder to help troubleshoot! We couldn't get to the bottom of it. I even replaced the ceramic resonator for a crystal oscillator pulled off of one of the Tandem PCBs, because we thought the resonator might've been screwy. Nope!
Turns out, the cheapest of all my converters made it work like a charm. This thing is picky!
Shibber my ****ing timbers.
I made this video for the eBay seller who was skeptical, but ended up figuring it out by the end of the video.
As you can tell, I'm also much too lazy to edit my videos. :))
Also... Orihalcyon... Halcon. Derp. I never looked too closely at Aram's user name. So much for assumptions!
I feel bad now, but I swear, this is the one time I actually message a seller with an offer that they go through with it. I've had so many occasions of "SURE, I'D BE HAPPY TO SELL TO YOU/SELL AT THAT PRICE -- NEVERMIND!!!" One of those was actually on a Focus FK-2001, as I'm sure Unfocused knows (it's fine though haha).
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
I feel like white on black looks best in Cherry font. These are a maybe a little too reminiscent of present day, generic, cheapo Dell/HP etc. keyboards. Not really fair, 'cause these came first, but that's the vibe I get. Still, not a bad look.
Does it work on straight PS/2? If so then its the converter. But if it only works on that cheapo USB converter than that's really weird.
@WingpadWell, fourth, Ohaimark had 'em before he sold 'em, haha. Yeah, that's a pretty apt description of 'em.
3rd person to have Striped Amber! :cool:
They are some kind of early linear switches with cushioned feeling towards bottoming out, right?
75% is my preferred format factor: are you going to hand-wire this 75%?
Hope you can create an open-source PCB for this layout if you can, and the plate - well, this is not so simple, I understand, just look at the many revisions of Alps64 to debug / improve / streamline it.
Just got my AEKii and I'm loving it. Wish I could find some caps though...what do you mean? AEK caps are top of the line alps caps.
no **** of courseJust got my AEKii and I'm loving it. Wish I could find some caps though...what do you mean? AEK caps are top of the line alps caps.
there inlines the problem with alps
AEK caps are boringThey're boring, yes, but available everywhere and conducive to weird layouts. They're not great but definitely not bad.
I have been away from this thread for a while... been juggling a number of things in real life (and a GB on deskthority) so I haven't had much time to check in here. That being said, I am making a return to brag:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Gh0KtqA.png)
^ Tandem 6526 with Striped Ambers
As for what I have been up to in absentia, aside from the Xerox converter, I have also been working on a custom 75% keyboard designed for use with Apple PBT keycaps. I had a preliminary plate fabbed with some help from ALH, there were a few issues with the layout but I (think) they were corrected and hope to have a working prototype in the near future. You will have to forgive me if I decide to call it the Wingman75 (and for the super yellowed spacebar). Here is a bit of a sneak peek:MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/jgqXHCu.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XVKE1WY.png)
AEK caps are boring
If they have bumps on F and J instead then I think AEK caps are end game.
you can flatten off the bumps.. I don't rely on them, so I don't care, but I could see how it'd be annoying
Awesome man! Is that one of the ones off ebay? What do you think of them? Plans?Yes, this is one of the ones from the most recent eBay bunch. First impressions were positive, mine seem pretty clean and I think they live up to the hype. I have yet to do a side-by-side comparison but they seem a lot like SKCL Greens with the springs from sprit's most recent GB. Plans are to put them in a Mira/LZ-CLS/Whatever I can get my hands on. I would like a TKL and I'll try to scrounge around to find one.
Well, in terms of aesthetics, you are not wrong; however, as much as I love my Japanese AEKII keycaps... the profile is still rather bland.AEK caps are boringJapanese ones aren't ;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3ePrs.jpg)
If they have bumps on F and J instead then I think AEK caps are end game.
you can flatten off the bumps.. I don't rely on them, so I don't care, but I could see how it'd be annoying
I like uniform texture so unless I can sandblast the entire set I'm not going to mess with a key here or there. But that's another project far into the future because I have too many already atm.
I do agree japanese ones are sexy, still sad that I didn't pick up a set when Blaise was selling them
Haha, I'm just being a snob. AEK caps are high quality for sure, but they're just so commonly seen that I don't find then as interesting as other sets. Yeah, I've seen Russian Cyrillic, Hebrew, Chinese, and Japanese variants, which are pretty nifty, sure.
My favorite are probably the uniform Chinese PBT caps, Cherry profile FAME caps, and hi pros.
If they have bumps on F and J instead then I think AEK caps are end game.
you can flatten off the bumps.. I don't rely on them, so I don't care, but I could see how it'd be annoying
I like uniform texture so unless I can sandblast the entire set I'm not going to mess with a key here or there. But that's another project far into the future because I have too many already atm.
I do agree japanese ones are sexy, still sad that I didn't pick up a set when Blaise was selling them
I just swap the F/J keys with the ones on D/K. If there were other spacebar options, I would consider dying a set black for a neat stealth look.
Haha, I'm just being a snob. AEK caps are high quality for sure, but they're just so commonly seen that I don't find then as interesting as other sets. Yeah, I've seen Russian Cyrillic, Hebrew, Chinese, and Japanese variants, which are pretty nifty, sure.
My favorite are probably the uniform Chinese PBT caps, Cherry profile FAME caps, and hi pros.
Their commonness is part of what makes them great. It is possible to acquire multiple sets and piece together a complete set for a custom layout. You are still somewhat limited with the legends, but you can always black them out with a dye job. Also, the profile is great. I'm a fan. The sideways stems on the F keys are a real bummer though.
Haha, I'm just being a snob. AEK caps are high quality for sure, but they're just so commonly seen that I don't find then as interesting as other sets. Yeah, I've seen Russian Cyrillic, Hebrew, Chinese, and Japanese variants, which are pretty nifty, sure.
...
Awesome man! Is that one of the ones off ebay? What do you think of them? Plans?...
First impressions were positive, mine seem pretty clean and I think they live up to the hype. I have yet to do a side-by-side comparison but they seem a lot like SKCL Greens with the springs from sprit's most recent GB.
...
Awesome man! Is that one of the ones off ebay? What do you think of them? Plans?Yes, this is one of the ones from the most recent eBay bunch. First impressions were positive, mine seem pretty clean and I think they live up to the hype. I have yet to do a side-by-side comparison but they seem a lot like SKCL Greens with the springs from sprit's most recent GB. Plans are to put them in a Mira/LZ-CLS/Whatever I can get my hands on. I would like a TKL and I'll try to scrounge around to find one.Well, in terms of aesthetics, you are not wrong; however, as much as I love my Japanese AEKII keycaps... the profile is still rather bland.AEK caps are boringJapanese ones aren't ;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3ePrs.jpg)
Haha, I'm just being a snob. AEK caps are high quality for sure, but they're just so commonly seen that I don't find then as interesting as other sets. Yeah, I've seen Russian Cyrillic, Hebrew, Chinese, and Japanese variants, which are pretty nifty, sure.
...
Would love to see a media thread dedicated to the rare AEK boards mentioned above.
Thinking of sanding one down to see how deep is the dyed sub, if shallow enough I could go for the blank set. I much refer blanks but I suspect it's not as easy as it sounds. Maintaining consistent height is difficult.
Would love to see a media thread dedicated to the rare AEK boards mentioned above.
What profile are AEK caps? Would they be the same as, for example, Alpine Winter or BadWrench's modifiers?Apple has its own profile for the AEK. I don't think it intentionally matches any other profile, but you could try mixing other caps to see how they look along with AEK caps.
What profile are AEK caps? Would they be the same as, for example, Alpine Winter or BadWrench's modifiers?Not quite (http://i.imgur.com/kFxqOm8.jpg), BadWrench's set was run in DCS profile.
What profile are AEK caps? Would they be the same as, for example, Alpine Winter or BadWrench's modifiers?
It would be nice if someone could add the profile for Matias keycaps to this very helpful guide.What profile are AEK caps? Would they be the same as, for example, Alpine Winter or BadWrench's modifiers?Not quite (http://i.imgur.com/kFxqOm8.jpg), BadWrench's set was run in DCS profile.
Thanks chaps.
E3E that doesn't look too bad to be honest, think I could live with that.
What are the slits for? On the tops of pine SKCM switches - is it some kind of vibration damping thing? Do they contribute to the difference in feel between pine and bamboo?Yes, the slits appear to serve as a damping mechanism. They attenuate the noise of the return stroke and also lessen the clatter from simply touching the keys. They are a major contributor to the difference in sound (and perhaps also feel) between pine and bamboo switches.
What are the slits for? On the tops of pine SKCM switches - is it some kind of vibration damping thing? Do they contribute to the difference in feel between pine and bamboo?Yes, the slits appear to serve as a damping mechanism. They attenuate the noise of the return stroke and also lessen the clatter from simply touching the keys. They are a major contributor to the difference in sound (and perhaps also feel) between pine and bamboo switches.
What are the slits for? On the tops of pine SKCM switches - is it some kind of vibration damping thing? Do they contribute to the difference in feel between pine and bamboo?Yes, the slits appear to serve as a damping mechanism. They attenuate the noise of the return stroke and also lessen the clatter from simply touching the keys. They are a major contributor to the difference in sound (and perhaps also feel) between pine and bamboo switches.
There's certainly a difference in feel, no possibility about it. The slits give a bit more "spring" to the feel, I think. If you've ever compared pine and bamboo SKCM Blacks, Whites, or SKCM Greens to each other, it's definitely something you can feel.
The lack of slits (bamboo) just lends itself to a cheaper feel. Little more rounded, less resolution.
There might be differences in other components of the switch as well, but in my experience, putting a pine top housing on a bamboo switch makes the switch sound and feel more like a pine switch.What are the slits for? On the tops of pine SKCM switches - is it some kind of vibration damping thing? Do they contribute to the difference in feel between pine and bamboo?Yes, the slits appear to serve as a damping mechanism. They attenuate the noise of the return stroke and also lessen the clatter from simply touching the keys. They are a major contributor to the difference in sound (and perhaps also feel) between pine and bamboo switches.
There's certainly a difference in feel, no possibility about it. The slits give a bit more "spring" to the feel, I think. If you've ever compared pine and bamboo SKCM Blacks, Whites, or SKCM Greens to each other, it's definitely something you can feel.
The lack of slits (bamboo) just lends itself to a cheaper feel. Little more rounded, less resolution.
So if you were to put a pine top housing on a bamboo switch, would it feel more like pine or bamboo?
What are the slits for? On the tops of pine SKCM switches - is it some kind of vibration damping thing? Do they contribute to the difference in feel between pine and bamboo?Yes, the slits appear to serve as a damping mechanism. They attenuate the noise of the return stroke and also lessen the clatter from simply touching the keys. They are a major contributor to the difference in sound (and perhaps also feel) between pine and bamboo switches.
There's certainly a difference in feel, no possibility about it. The slits give a bit more "spring" to the feel, I think. If you've ever compared pine and bamboo SKCM Blacks, Whites, or SKCM Greens to each other, it's definitely something you can feel.
The lack of slits (bamboo) just lends itself to a cheaper feel. Little more rounded, less resolution.
So if you were to put a pine top housing on a bamboo switch, would it feel more like pine or bamboo?
Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/accc6113ce1ccca836a6390f201efcb0.jpg)
Hey guys... I like alps SKCM creams... can you tell? :)
Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/accc6113ce1ccca836a6390f201efcb0.jpg)
Hey guys... I like alps SKCM creams... can you tell? :)
Great switches indeed. Too bad their so rare. The NeXT ebay guy is really our only main source for them. Seems he got a hold of a warehouse of old stock or something. NeXT computers were only sold for a few years and less with the non-adb variant. The next best source is those big AP Canon typewriters. I think people would pick them up a lot more but A not a whole lot of people know about them and B you can really only get them locally, ebay shipping is ridiculous (but expected) and rarely does a seller do free ship.
It's kinda like SKCL Striped Amber as well. Some of the best switches Alps made no one got. When the NeXT's dry up we will have a Cream crisis on our hands :rolleyes:
Also about the NeXT thing the vintage computer community hates us, destroying/modifying old hardware! I think some guy called us vultures lol. I try to preserve old hardware when I can and definitely respect it when I do have to take it apart, like the Tandem terminals for example. Or most of the time I repurpose them with new switches etc. The 5140 feast is another one they really hate.
Well, that's why I put other switches into my IIc and 5140 - white into IIc and white damped into 5140, to preserve the original spirit as much as possible.I just noticed you did that was you in that thread too! Since the 5140's screen folds down when not in use, they all seem to be very clean. My caps were dirty but the plate was spotless. Another interesting tidbit, I just took the caps off to run through the ultrasonic cleaner and all the stabs seem to be prelubed.
I'd do it with my other 5140 as well, but I took the whole assembly out and had it converted, so all the pieces are there. It's so beat up anyway, that not many people would consider worthy of preserving anyway.
The case on that Zenith looks warped Oo .
Thank you, and no, I haven't! I really want to do a brown and a cream Alps review, but I want to get one that's super clean as I know otherwise the review will be skewed, and it's not easy to get either. I've been eyeing the NeXT vendor who had that big batch of boards, but his lack of transparency made me not buy, as I wanted to look at the exact one he'd send me. Brown Alps are just rare in general, and not easy to find clean. I very much want to do both though, as I adore salmon and especially orange Alps, on which I type at just about my maximum speed.Well, that's why I put other switches into my IIc and 5140 - white into IIc and white damped into 5140, to preserve the original spirit as much as possible.I just noticed you did that was you in that thread too! Since the 5140's screen folds down when not in use, they all seem to be very clean. My caps were dirty but the plate was spotless. Another interesting tidbit, I just took the caps off to run through the ultrasonic cleaner and all the stabs seem to be prelubed.
I'd do it with my other 5140 as well, but I took the whole assembly out and had it converted, so all the pieces are there. It's so beat up anyway, that not many people would consider worthy of preserving anyway.The case on that Zenith looks warped Oo .
I don't think it is, or maybe I never noticed. Congrats on the successful success of your GoFundMe and more importantly, your PhD! Have you ever reviewed brown alps?
Thank you, and no, I haven't! I really want to do a brown and a cream Alps review, but I want to get one that's super clean as I know otherwise the review will be skewed, and it's not easy to get either. I've been eyeing the NeXT vendor who had that big batch of boards, but his lack of transparency made me not buy, as I wanted to look at the exact one he'd send me. Brown Alps are just rare in general, and not easy to find clean. I very much want to do both though, as I adore salmon and especially orange Alps, on which I type at just about my maximum speed.The case on that Zenith looks warped Oo .
I don't think it is, or maybe I never noticed. Congrats on the successful success of your GoFundMe and more importantly, your PhD! Have you ever reviewed brown alps?
Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/COAAAOSwux5YMfGz/s-l1600.jpg)
EDIT: Does anyone have a set of Apple IIGS keycaps (https://deskthority.net/w/images/7/7d/Apple_M0330_top.jpg) or at least the numpad portion?
We need to find you a good clean 5140 with an ISO enter :DShow Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/COAAAOSwux5YMfGz/s-l1600.jpg)
I think the dampening sort of killed it. It was quiet like a MX blue and not as ultra-tactile as you'd expect from ALPS.Have you tried all of them or just the clicky one (as you mentioned mx blue)?
I've got something special coming in the mail, but the packaging doesn't inspire much confidenceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/LsMTs4H.jpg)
Fake alps cherry clone? Those are actually nice
Striped Ambers and Ambers are the only alps switches I still really want to try.
I haven't tried oranges yet but I have tried salmons and thought they were too light.I'll probably be roasted for this opinion but after trying both SKCM Browns > SKCM Greens
For sure, I also owned both. I would like to get some orange alps to compare as well, but I'm in no rush.
I'll probably be roasted for this opinion but after trying both SKCM Browns > SKCM Greens
For sure, I also owned both. I would like to get some orange alps to compare as well, but I'm in no rush.
I've got something special coming in the mail, but the packaging doesn't inspire much confidenceIt's actually pretty damn nice ;) .Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LsMTs4H.jpg)
I'll probably be roasted for this opinion but after trying both SKCM Browns > SKCM GreensI agree... Also, SKCM cream > SKCM brown
SKCM Undampened cream from NeXT non adb boards falls into that window. It is a fantastic switch.I'll probably be roasted for this opinion but after trying both SKCM Browns > SKCM Greens
For sure, I also owned both. I would like to get some orange alps to compare as well, but I'm in no rush.
Something between Orange and Green would be perfect for me. The Browns feel awful to me. I really can't stand them.
I've got something special coming in the mail, but the packaging doesn't inspire much confidenceholy **** does that board have the cherry profile doubleshot alps caps? if so Im jealous...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LsMTs4H.jpg)
Yes, should do.I've got something special coming in the mail, but the packaging doesn't inspire much confidenceholy **** does that board have the cherry profile doubleshot alps caps? if so Im jealous...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LsMTs4H.jpg)
I've got something special coming in the mail, but the packaging doesn't inspire much confidenceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/LsMTs4H.jpg)
Is that an AEKII? Probably white dampened ones then.
In that case you never could've gotten orange Alps because they never came with them AFAIK. The very earliest ones had salmon, but the majority used cream or white damp.Is that an AEKII? Probably white dampened ones then.
yes it is, much obliged my man
In that case you never could've gotten orange Alps because they never came with them AFAIK. The very earliest ones had salmon, but the majority used cream or white damp.Is that an AEKII? Probably white dampened ones then.
yes it is, much obliged my man
Salmon is a second gen switch, with short switchplates, while orange is a first gen switch with tall switchplates. If you wanted an AEKII with salmons, you need to find one with a 1989 copyright date on the label. Oranges can only come in M0115s, M0116/8s, some apple IIGS keyboards, and some wang 725-3770/3771 boards.In that case you never could've gotten orange Alps because they never came with them AFAIK. The very earliest ones had salmon, but the majority used cream or white damp.Is that an AEKII? Probably white dampened ones then.
yes it is, much obliged my man
TIL salmon and orange aren't the same :-[
I really don't know how E3E managed to hand drill LED holes in enough switches for a G80-3000 in addition to the other two Duck boards. Just did enough for a numpad and I wanted to rip my toenails out.
Also, I ordered some 70cN springs from SPRiT so I can attempt to replicate SKCL Browns using the leftover SKCL yellows Nubs sent me.
I really don't know how E3E managed to hand drill LED holes in enough switches for a G80-3000 in addition to the other two Duck boards. Just did enough for a numpad and I wanted to rip my toenails out.
Also, I ordered some 70cN springs from SPRiT so I can attempt to replicate SKCL Browns using the leftover SKCL yellows Nubs sent me.
It is a pain, definitely a pain. Given the RSI issues I was facing, doing that drilling for the NCR build--the combination of hand drilling + insertion of the LEDs into the board had my hand aching and made my vision all fuzzy for a good couple of minutes because of how I had to squint my eyes to focus on the holes so I could properly insert the LEDs.
I also shaved the LEDs' flanges off to make insertion easier, since it looks like LEDs are meant to slot into the switches as opposed to just be inserted. A dremel and a tool vise made quick(er) work of that issue.
I really don't know how E3E managed to hand drill LED holes in enough switches for a G80-3000 in addition to the other two Duck boards. Just did enough for a numpad and I wanted to rip my toenails out.
Also, I ordered some 70cN springs from SPRiT so I can attempt to replicate SKCL Browns using the leftover SKCL yellows Nubs sent me.
It is a pain, definitely a pain. Given the RSI issues I was facing, doing that drilling for the NCR build--the combination of hand drilling + insertion of the LEDs into the board had my hand aching and made my vision all fuzzy for a good couple of minutes because of how I had to squint my eyes to focus on the holes so I could properly insert the LEDs.
I also shaved the LEDs' flanges off to make insertion easier, since it looks like LEDs are meant to slot into the switches as opposed to just be inserted. A dremel and a tool vise made quick(er) work of that issue.
I can definitively see that being an issue. Also, I'm having a hard time finding the actuation force of SKCL browns, would you happen to know it? Realized SPRiT's measurements for alps springs are based off actuation force, not bottom out.
Good news...
I'm in China now, and have signed off on the Black PBT caps. We are arranging the production schedule now.
We'll start with raw blanks in Black, and then do Black with White legends.
I'm waiting on White PBT samples next, but those shouldn't take long.
Anymore feedback anyone wants to provide, now is the time... :-)
Orange is even lighter than Salmon, actually.SKCM brown Alps do indeed have a unique feel, with perhaps the most pronounced tactility of any Alps switch. Their parts fit together with close tolerances, like a fine piece of machinery. I believe these characteristics come mainly from the tactile assembly, which is a modified switchplate, but also from he symmetrical top housing and slider.
I regret selling my only tactile SKCM brown board several years ago. Those switches are perfect. Maybe it's that dummy switchplate they use instead of a tactile leaf; maybe it's the plastic in the stems or the dry lube they're painted with, or maybe it's all those factors working in concert... I don't know why SKCM tactile browns are so inimitable, but I've used hundreds of ALPS keyboards over the years and nothing comes close to browns. Orange is in the same ballpark, and there are a few varieties I've never tried (like SKCM greens and fresh, unused ambers), but IMHO browns are in a league of their own. I'd really love to find some NOS browns for my first custom build
What profile are AEK caps? Would they be the same as, for example, Alpine Winter or BadWrench's modifiers?
One of my first Alps projects mixed these profiles:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uDUpeAx.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRxg7jt.jpg)
AEK profile is very different from any other profile out there, so you won't be finding any matches. Maybe try designing resin cast or 3D printed mods or something.
What profile are AEK caps? Would they be the same as, for example, Alpine Winter or BadWrench's modifiers?
One of my first Alps projects mixed these profiles:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uDUpeAx.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRxg7jt.jpg)
AEK profile is very different from any other profile out there, so you won't be finding any matches. Maybe try designing resin cast or 3D printed mods or something.
Just noticed: is that an infinity build?
What is this 6u space bar? And what stabilizers solution did you use?
I think it's simpler to build with an Alps64 or even with Duck Eagle PCB, and these two support more layout options.
Switches from Mike arrived today, I individually cleaned and mounted them into the AEKII. Still need to solder.Glad to see them in their new home instead of just sitting in a bag at my house! I bought and desoldered another NeXT to make up for lost switches... haha
Should get it back together and working by this weekend, getting my ADB converter on Friday :)
Pics:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xZcnAjV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/D4PLYan.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZV1CSeQ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r2uNpPB.jpg)
Idk why but the last picture makes the case looked warped in the center, it isn't :p
...
Yep, it is an infinity! The space bar was a modified 6u DCS space bar. ABS. I stem-swapped it. All stabs are costar. You can now buy Alps space bars in grey and blue from PMK because of Alpine Winter though.
The Alps64 is, by far, the easiest to build for because it has more supported layouts than any other PCB out there. It lacks backlighting and PCB Cherry stabs (which really isn't -meant- for Alps, but can work on some caps).
The Eagle actually does not have many supported layouts. It only has the AT101 layout + a 15u top row if desired. I had to manually drill the PCB to create the layouts for the short right shift, all Caps Lock positions, and the 6.25u bottom row.
My Infinity was pretty much a match made in heaven for Alpine Winter, and influenced the design. Badwrench and myself were the ones who came up with the colorway.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/aYdRanc.jpg)
Was just brainstorming an idea and was wondering how viable pcb mounted alps are? Saw a tread on deskthority regarding the amount of torque on the switches due to the lack of mounting holes would be a problem, but has this ever been done?
Alrighty everyone, wish me luck and please excuse my messy, 30 year-old work bench.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/p4uqtqb.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/17Dpfd5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P44BpDM.jpg)
I have already run the switches through the ultrasonic cleaner and replaced the tops with ones from my click modded Z-150. Also shaved off the flanges and hand-drilled holes for 2x5x7 leds. Just waiting on the gold LED Holtites from Sager and Apple IIgs numpad keycaps from eBay.
Can't imagine doing this for a full-sized keyboard though.
Hopefully I don't mess this up!
The AEK chassis is a bit underrated.Is it? xD I thought it was pretty well-respected xD .
The AEK chassis is a bit underrated. It's solidly built and the second version has that funky angle adjustment in the rear. Always a fan of creams and the Japanese sublegends.
Also, update on the numpad:
After drilling with the Dremel, none of keys still register so I had to make a run to RadioShack (yay 70% off) for a conductive pen.
I think on this particular PCB, it would have been a much better choice to hand-drill the holes from both sides. Hopefully I can get everything retraced and don't have to get a new PCB :o
The AEK chassis is a bit underrated.Is it? xD I thought it was pretty well-respected xD .
SGI tho
Heh, I don't even have an SGI xD .The AEK chassis is a bit underrated.Is it? xD I thought it was pretty well-respected xD .
SGI tho
Heh, I don't even have an SGI xD .The AEK chassis is a bit underrated.Is it? xD I thought it was pretty well-respected xD .
SGI tho
Yes, part of the reason I didn't get one is that I don't really want an ANSI one, but the ISO verion is pretty rare.Heh, I don't even have an SGI xD .The AEK chassis is a bit underrated.Is it? xD I thought it was pretty well-respected xD .
SGI tho
They're probably much more common over here in the states. The SGI 102s I've seen also just reuse Dell AT102 caps, font and all, and don't carry over either the granite colorway or the italic font.
I just threw 3 away hahaThe AEK chassis is a bit underrated.Is it? xD I thought it was pretty well-respected xD .
SGI tho
Then what can we do to all those nice plate-less harvested AEK cases with PCBs, they're better than helping homeless people to keep warm in the winter.
Perhaps we can donate all of them to installation artists.
Yes, part of the reason I didn't get one is that I don't really want an ANSI one, but the ISO verion is pretty rare.
Yes, I found an Acer 6511 and an AEK in ANSI layout there. The 6511 was brand-new and had Alps-mount caps as well, so I have a brand-new replacement set for my KB-101A ^^ .Yes, part of the reason I didn't get one is that I don't really want an ANSI one, but the ISO verion is pretty rare.
That reskinned AT102. :P
Did you ever find any ANSI models at the recyclers? I'd think not, but I'm curious.
Yes, I found an Acer 6511 and an AEK in ANSI layout there. The 6511 was brand-new and had Alps-mount caps as well, so I have a brand-new replacement set for my KB-101A ^^ .Yes, part of the reason I didn't get one is that I don't really want an ANSI one, but the ISO verion is pretty rare.
That reskinned AT102. :P
Did you ever find any ANSI models at the recyclers? I'd think not, but I'm curious.
Yes, part of the reason I didn't get one is that I don't really want an ANSI one, but the ISO verion is pretty rare....
They're probably much more common over here in the states. The SGI 102s I've seen also just reuse Dell AT102 caps, font and all, and don't carry over either the granite colorway or the italic font.
I am giving away an ansi chassis, but I don't think the shipping would be worth it at all.ß
Yes, I found an Acer 6511 and an AEK in ANSI layout there. The 6511 was brand-new and had Alps-mount caps as well, so I have a brand-new replacement set for my KB-101A ^^ .Yes, part of the reason I didn't get one is that I don't really want an ANSI one, but the ISO verion is pretty rare.
That reskinned AT102. :P
Did you ever find any ANSI models at the recyclers? I'd think not, but I'm curious.
I meant SGI granite, whoops. When I said "ANSI," I probably already had the logic in my mind but forgot that I didn't clarify it in the message. Probably wrote ANSI there without even thinking, whoops.
Always nice to have replacement key sets for when one wears out or if you want to just keep one for when you make it a "showroom" board for pictures or just to look pretty, haha.
I have never seen an SGI Granite / Beige keyboard with ISO enter before, not even just on photos.
Do they exist?
...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QZoVAo3.jpg)
The last two are brother sets. :)
Ultimately, I think I'm gonna go back to the ICL One Per Desk caps on the Mira.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RfV7XmP.jpg)
...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QZoVAo3.jpg)
The last two are brother sets. :)
Ultimately, I think I'm gonna go back to the ICL One Per Desk caps on the Mira.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RfV7XmP.jpg)
In my opinion, Beige and grey colors work on a red case like this only when they have red legends, or at most red + black, red + blue, or red + green legends.
Otherwise, the base color of caps should be sort of from the same color palette - like the pseudo SP SA retro set (I know they model after the ICL One per desk) here. Red, deep red, brown - from the same palette, and then to highlight with a contrasting color - lime green with matching white legend. Perfect - almost. I wish the mods can be in that deep red or some toffee color. That's the game of Alps anyways.
No, I don't own an SGI.Yes, I found an Acer 6511 and an AEK in ANSI layout there. The 6511 was brand-new and had Alps-mount caps as well, so I have a brand-new replacement set for my KB-101A ^^ .Yes, part of the reason I didn't get one is that I don't really want an ANSI one, but the ISO verion is pretty rare.
That reskinned AT102. :P
Did you ever find any ANSI models at the recyclers? I'd think not, but I'm curious.
I meant SGI granite, whoops. When I said "ANSI," I probably already had the logic in my mind but forgot that I didn't clarify it in the message. Probably wrote ANSI there without even thinking, whoops.
Always nice to have replacement key sets for when one wears out or if you want to just keep one for when you make it a "showroom" board for pictures or just to look pretty, haha.
Typing to you on my Japanese AEKII! Got my converter today, it's great :p Getting used to this profile is a little weird (it's flatter) but shouldn't take long. SKCM Cream is great in this board too.
Works just fine but did have a bad switch though, faulty switchplate. I managed to fix it using my trusted method that works some of the time. Took the metal leaf off the switchplate and used a toothpick to pull back the little contact arm then spray it a bunch with compressed air while also bending the arm a little bit. These switches were really clean so must be the tiniest bit of dust in there. Man Alps can be susceptible to even the smallest amount of dust lol.
Yeah, it's a shame. For such a complicated mechanism, it has a lot of issues with dust, but then again, that's kind of what happens with complicated designs.
So you've never used an AEK before? I'm surprised. Yeah, the profile is pretty flat, but it's not bad. :)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QZoVAo3.jpg)
Very nice. I recently got one of those too, however I am only getting the keycaps. cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps. soooo niceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
it looks cool.. but will you use it?
it looks cool.. but will you use it?
Probably not as a numpad, but more a macropad for AutoCad and Excel in conjunction with my laptop.
it looks cool.. but will you use it?
Probably not as a numpad, but more a macropad for AutoCad and Excel in conjunction with my laptop.
With your laptop? So cool!
You should try to install a bluetooth module inside to get rid of the cable to have the ultimate cool cute macropad that makes colleagues / other people in the coffee shop / family members and friends jealous.
It's a pity makers of Alps compatible PCBs do not make the switch pin holes big enough to allow us to just install the receptacles with some more persuasion with blunt solder iron tip.
It's a pity makers of Alps compatible PCBs do not make the switch pin holes big enough to allow us to just install the receptacles with some more persuasion with blunt solder iron tip.
Very nice. I recently got one of those too, however I am only getting the keycaps. cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps. soooo niceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
Well, first of all they are quite rare. they only come on tai-hao FAME models like this one (model number th-5539, read more about it on the deskthority wiki), some old keytrak (blue alps and a trackball... nice)and an AT layout board made by tai-hao, the TH-5150. the mod color is not spot on with OG cherry, it is a bit darker. they use a cherry stab mount.Very nice. I recently got one of those too, however I am only getting the keycaps. cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps. soooo niceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
wait.. whaaaat????
Tell me more about these cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps!!!
Watch this.Very nice. I recently got one of those too, however I am only getting the keycaps. cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps. soooo niceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
wait.. whaaaat????
Tell me more about these cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps!!!
Very nice. I recently got one of those too, however I am only getting the keycaps. cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps. soooo niceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
wait.. whaaaat????
Tell me more about these cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps!!!
Another option is getting an Infinty PCB and you don't even need to install sockets for the switches. E3E figured this out a while ago (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76179.0) and I have tested the connection to be very reliable. This guy (http://imgur.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/u7gin) on Reddit also makes a PCB for the Varmillo VA68m using the same switchhole dimensions. That's the next project.
Watch this.Very nice. I recently got one of those too, however I am only getting the keycaps. cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps. soooo niceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
wait.. whaaaat????
Tell me more about these cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps!!!
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
Very nice. I recently got one of those too, however I am only getting the keycaps. cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps. soooo niceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
wait.. whaaaat????
Tell me more about these cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps!!!
Here's one!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vfQFZO2.jpg)
My one :)
Yeah, I talked about this with Mike before they posted. Yep, that's pretty much the gist of it.
Tai hao made them, but they switched to the thinner caps to save production cost. They do not have the molds anymore.Watch this.Very nice. I recently got one of those too, however I am only getting the keycaps. cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps. soooo niceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
wait.. whaaaat????
Tell me more about these cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps!!!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberatelyVery nice. I recently got one of those too, however I am only getting the keycaps. cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps. soooo niceShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ExSQEfG.jpg)
Finally got it in the mail. I do have to say that the clicky switch's sound on this board is fantastic. It's a nice deeper sounding click compared to mx blues
As a linear guy, I'm not really used to typing on these kinds of switches. Having to wait for the switch to reset makes me have to type more slowly and deliberately
wait.. whaaaat????
Tell me more about these cherry profile doubleshot alps keycaps!!!
Here's one!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vfQFZO2.jpg)
My one :)
Yeah, I talked about this with Mike before they posted. Yep, that's pretty much the gist of it.
I try not to remind myself that these caps exist (by the way who made these? Tai Hao Alps are much thinner) and pray to the old and the new keyboard gods that Matias will deliver some affordable nice thick dyesub for Alps this year or next.
Good luck! $350 should be attainable. Where did you see the 31st as the final deadline? I've been procrastinating on my F77 purchase but I couldn't find anything about this deadline.
Glad you sold it. Whoever got it got a pretty cool board.Good luck! $350 should be attainable. Where did you see the 31st as the final deadline? I've been procrastinating on my F77 purchase but I couldn't find anything about this deadline.
Sold it.
$200,000.00+ so far in orders (2/28/17)! Please have your orders in by 3/31/2017!
Not sure if it's for the early bird timeline though.
Good luck! $350 should be attainable. Where did you see the 31st as the final deadline? I've been procrastinating on my F77 purchase but I couldn't find anything about this deadline.
Sold it.
$200,000.00+ so far in orders (2/28/17)! Please have your orders in by 3/31/2017!
Not sure if it's for the early bird timeline though.
So guys, I need your help. I am thinking of selling my Packard Bell T9102 for a new Model F77. I am leaning toward the F77 since I have always wanted a Model F, and in that layout in Industrial Gray, with my special typesetting keycaps I have it would make an absolutely amazing board. Plus I still have my SKCM Amber board so I'm not completely rid of glorious first gen clicky Alps. Plus boards like my SKCM Cream AEKII.All things considered, seems like a fair asking price for the Packard Bell. Wish I could afford it, but I am overspent these days.
I have already discussed this with E3E, but I thought I would seek your advice as well. Anyone interested in the Packard Bell can PM me. E3E and I came up with a price of $350 since it's NOS, ANSI, SKCM Blue, not yellowed in the slightest (including indicator label and that isn't reversible), no shine on the Alps Electric doubleshot caps, built very well with a metal backplate, and has a perfect coiled cable. Pretty much everything you could ask for!
Your guy's opinion??? The last round of the new Model F's ends on the 31st :confused:
All things considered, seems like a fair asking price for the Packard Bell. Wish I could afford it, but I am overspent these days.
Regarding the F62/F77, are you thinking of the original-type case or the "ultracompact" case?
My own preference is the F62 -- I like the form factor (both size and symmetry) and layout. I also tend to favor the original-type case, as it replicates the original Kishsaver and it is a better-known quantity than the ultracompact version.
Hey, i figured that all the Alps guys might be interested in my classifieds, I'm selling all of my remaining Alps keycaps. I love Alps and Matias, think they are vastly superior to anything Cherry out there, and consider myself an Alps enthusiast, but I've actually become a bigger fan of Topre. Anyways, if you want any of my remaining Alps/Matias stuff, here it is.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46277.0
just go to reddit stuff sells way faster
Hey, i figured that all the Alps guys might be interested in my classifieds, I'm selling all of my remaining Alps keycaps. I love Alps and Matias, think they are vastly superior to anything Cherry out there, and consider myself an Alps enthusiast, but I've actually become a bigger fan of Topre. Anyways, if you want any of my remaining Alps/Matias stuff, here it is.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46277.0
just go to reddit stuff sells way faster
Can't stand reddit and every time I make a post I have an error and I have no clue what it is and I can't ever get my stuff to fully post.
lol your loss. Nothing sells here unless it's super sought after.
Hey, i figured that all the Alps guys might be interested in my classifieds, I'm selling all of my remaining Alps keycaps. I love Alps and Matias, think they are vastly superior to anything Cherry out there, and consider myself an Alps enthusiast, but I've actually become a bigger fan of Topre. Anyways, if you want any of my remaining Alps/Matias stuff, here it is.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46277.0
just go to reddit stuff sells way faster
Can't stand reddit and every time I make a post I have an error and I have no clue what it is and I can't ever get my stuff to fully post.
lol your loss. Nothing sells here unless it's super sought after.
Meh, I sell some things here and there, but I will resort to reddit, if need be.
Got a yellowed one for free from a warehouse pull, took one Texas Summer Saturday to fix that. These de-yellow quite easily. Mine wasn't THAT yellowed though...No, I don't own an SGI.Yes, I found an Acer 6511 and an AEK in ANSI layout there. The 6511 was brand-new and had Alps-mount caps as well, so I have a brand-new replacement set for my KB-101A ^^ .Yes, part of the reason I didn't get one is that I don't really want an ANSI one, but the ISO verion is pretty rare.
That reskinned AT102.
Did you ever find any ANSI models at the recyclers? I'd think not, but I'm curious.
I meant SGI granite, whoops. When I said "ANSI," I probably already had the logic in my mind but forgot that I didn't clarify it in the message. Probably wrote ANSI there without even thinking, whoops.
Always nice to have replacement key sets for when one wears out or if you want to just keep one for when you make it a "showroom" board for pictures or just to look pretty, haha.
What also makes me reluctant to buy one is that I want an unyellowed one. So I might well have to wait for one xD .
Hey, i figured that all the Alps guys might be interested in my classifieds, I'm selling all of my remaining Alps keycaps. I love Alps and Matias, think they are vastly superior to anything Cherry out there, and consider myself an Alps enthusiast, but I've actually become a bigger fan of Topre. Anyways, if you want any of my remaining Alps/Matias stuff, here it is.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46277.0
just go to reddit stuff sells way faster
Was scrolling through Reddit and saw someone sold a few SKCL Browns.
Hey, i figured that all the Alps guys might be interested in my classifieds, I'm selling all of my remaining Alps keycaps. I love Alps and Matias, think they are vastly superior to anything Cherry out there, and consider myself an Alps enthusiast, but I've actually become a bigger fan of Topre. Anyways, if you want any of my remaining Alps/Matias stuff, here it is.Your wisdom is needling my conscience. I am typing this on a HHKB, which is my all-time favorite keyboard. Yet I keep acquiring keyboards with Alps or Matias switches and doing refurbishing projects on them. Maybe I will continue selling off my Cherry-switch (and clones) keyboards (and switches and keycaps) -- I hardly use the mx stuff anymore (except occasionally to confirm my preference for Topre, IBM Model F, and Alps/Matias).
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46277.0
**** now I need to solder SMD diodes -_ -Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BQkTcQB.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SIXQIV3.jpg)
newest Alps PCB's
Not sure what I'll do with it right now, but it looks very nice.
Hey, i figured that all the Alps guys might be interested in my classifieds, I'm selling all of my remaining Alps keycaps. I love Alps and Matias, think they are vastly superior to anything Cherry out there, and consider myself an Alps enthusiast, but I've actually become a bigger fan of Topre. Anyways, if you want any of my remaining Alps/Matias stuff, here it is.Your wisdom is needling my conscience. I am typing this on a HHKB, which is my all-time favorite keyboard. Yet I keep acquiring keyboards with Alps or Matias switches and doing refurbishing projects on them. Maybe I will continue selling off my Cherry-switch (and clones) keyboards (and switches and keycaps) -- I hardly use the mx stuff anymore (except occasionally to confirm my preference for Topre, IBM Model F, and Alps/Matias).
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46277.0
My situation is getting more and more similar - I even want to have a HHKB Pro 1 recently.
And it is ridiculous that I am fascinated by and still trying to buy key caps and key cap sets that support only MX switches.
My solution is to dedicate my Alps builds to the tactile and clicky switches, and MX to linear.
But wait... Alps and Topre still kind of overlap.
Topre is like my coffee, and occasionally I want to switch to tea (Alps) and enjoy all the rituals involved, e.g. ultrasound cleaning, etc.
Does anyone know if the caps on any of the Canon Typestar series typewriters are Alps compatible?
So i'm 10 SKCM Browns short for a complete swap into a Wang 725, anyone have any they could spare?
everyone and their brother is ten short for a TKL though!
Good luck!
I am just popping in to share something a little different than our usual fare here on the Alps Appreciation thread. It's a little off-topic, but it is arguably appreciating Alps so I don't think anyone will mind. I present to you... the Alps mug:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLUi2aw.jpg)
"Now you can combine your favorite beverage with your favorite key switch manufacturer!"
I vectorized the Alps logo and used the resulting SVG to make it (which you can find attached to this post). If you want one, you can order your own here (https://www.zazzle.com/old_logo_alps_electric_mug-168148189252641100).
Dude thanks so much for that SVG. This is something I wanted to do for a while, but I'm not the best at working with AI.
I am just popping in to share something a little different than our usual fare here on the Alps Appreciation thread. It's a little off-topic, but it is arguably appreciating Alps so I don't think anyone will mind. I present to you... the Alps mug:That's... awesome?!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLUi2aw.jpg)
"Now you can combine your favorite beverage with your favorite key switch manufacturer!"
I vectorized the Alps logo and used the resulting SVG to make it (which you can find attached to this post). If you want one, you can order your own here (https://www.zazzle.com/old_logo_alps_electric_mug-168148189252641100).
Would Ambers from Apple IIC be a good midpoint between Blues and Pine Whites? I started using pine whites for a little bit and they started to grow on me. Then I took out my blues just for comparison and holy ****. The differences are just sad. Why did I even bother with white.
Would Ambers from Apple IIC be a good midpoint between Blues and Pine Whites? I started using pine whites for a little bit and they started to grow on me. Then I took out my blues just for comparison and holy ****. The differences are just sad. Why did I even bother with white.They're basically blues except more tactile. Very nice switches.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qyD3BXH.jpg)
SMD Diodes all soldered :)
Custom order from leeku, we got the alps logo printed on it as well. It came out so nice I made it my new avatar :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qyD3BXH.jpg)
SMD Diodes all soldered :)
Wow where'd you get that white pcb? So pretty. I've got one lined up for a future build but its the normal black solder mask.
Custom order from leeku, we got the alps logo printed on it as well. It came out so nice I made it my new avatar :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qyD3BXH.jpg)
SMD Diodes all soldered :)
Wow where'd you get that white pcb? So pretty. I've got one lined up for a future build but its the normal black solder mask.
Yes I believe it was either my or E3E's idea to get the logo. He has some more, but I believe he is away from Korea for a month or so.
Custom order from leeku, we got the alps logo printed on it as well. It came out so nice I made it my new avatar :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qyD3BXH.jpg)
SMD Diodes all soldered :)
Wow where'd you get that white pcb? So pretty. I've got one lined up for a future build but its the normal black solder mask.
Custom order from leeku, we got the alps logo printed on it as well. It came out so nice I made it my new avatar :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qyD3BXH.jpg)
SMD Diodes all soldered :)
Wow where'd you get that white pcb? So pretty. I've got one lined up for a future build but its the normal black solder mask.
Dang! Have you got any extras you could sell? Or is it better to contact Leeku via email?
he is definitely away for a while, but I know he was at least 15 extras.
So sometimes the hotswap mod for Alps switches will have the Holtite receptacles sticking out instead of seated flush with the PCB?
I really want to try to mod my SGI Granite Hotswappable, and perhaps also the Zenith Z-150, and perhaps some more. But those have single layer PCB and I probably have to drill holes and also solder the receptacles after installing them. And Holtite, because of its structure, may not be suitable for such a task, e.g. being soldered at the pointed end.
May want to source some cheap but working receptacles for Alps from TaoBao for such a purpose.
... I've had to fix every single connection after drilling. Conductive ink ...
Quote... I've had to fix every single connection after drilling. Conductive ink ...
:eek:
I know, after drilling there may not be enough conductive pad for that pin hole already.
And other aspects about make older Alps boards hotswappable is that I am not sure if their plates are mounted or their PCBs are mounted. If mainly just the PCB is stabilized, then typing on such a hotswap modded old board may feel real wobbly.
I haven't tried any of these before, it is just my speculation:
If the PCB is mounted to the plastic case and the metal plate is sort of floating / mainly stabilized by the switches, and if the switches are all connected only through receptacles to the PCB, then I assume the feel of key press will not be as solid as when the switches are soldered in, or when the plate is mounted ("top-mounted").
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zcC4LSc.jpg)
Finally finished it :)
......
I'm a little confused about the idea of the switches feeling less solid in a "tray mounted" setup though. Are you saying because the plate isn't supported by screws? The switches support the plate just as well as if they were soldered, in my experience.
Another painter of Northgate cases!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zcC4LSc.jpg)
Finally finished it :)
Monterey Blues in my new SIIG Minitouch, highly underrated!!! :thumb:
new as in new? or new to you?
There was one on eBay, but the dude wants way too much for the **** condition it's in.
new as in new?
new as in new?
A few years ago there were a dozen or so new-in-box listed on ebay in Florida for a ridiculous price like $20-$30.
I could only afford 1 but then I listed them here and they were gone within the hour.
Eventually I sold mine unopened for 2x-3x what I paid for it when I realized that I would never give it the home it deserved.
Similar story here. I wanted to like the board, but the layout didn't work for me. Such is the case with all the boards I've tried in the twilight zone between 60% and TKL or full-size. However, I still have a SIIG Suntouch Jr with SKCM white Alps that might work.
new as in new?
A few years ago there were a dozen or so new-in-box listed on ebay in Florida for a ridiculous price like $20-$30.
I could only afford 1 but then I listed them here and they were gone within the hour.
Eventually I sold mine unopened for 2x-3x what I paid for it when I realized that I would never give it the home it deserved.
Similar story here. I wanted to like the board, but the layout didn't work for me. Such is the case with all the boards I've tried in the twilight zone between 60% and TKL or full-size. However, I still have a SIIG Suntouch Jr with SKCM white Alps that might work.
new as in new?
A few years ago there were a dozen or so new-in-box listed on ebay in Florida for a ridiculous price like $20-$30.
I could only afford 1 but then I listed them here and they were gone within the hour.
Eventually I sold mine unopened for 2x-3x what I paid for it when I realized that I would never give it the home it deserved.
(Attachment Link)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=60490.0
I'm thinking of remapping the Backslash to Enter and remapping Enter to Backspace. This should be a better configuration than I could get with the backward-L Enter on the SIIG Minitouch.
@digi: For remapping, I usually start with remapping software. My favorite for Windows is ATNsoft Key Manager. Then if it appears that the remapping is what I want, and if I am serious about the keyboard, I move to either an internal or external converter using a Teensy or similar board with Soarer's converter. Depending on the keyboard and its controller, I might use a Hasu or Xwhatsit converter.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/fC8Ou5g.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/SKfzKUc.jpg)
Had to sacrifice a Next non-adb for this. I don't know where should I clue the apple logo
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/fC8Ou5g.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/SKfzKUc.jpg)
Had to sacrifice a Next non-adb for this. I don't know where should I clue the apple logoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/OIPpVn7.jpg)
Tai Hao Hebrew too? Looks good!
Alps SKCM Cream Custom with a flipped spacebar. A man after my own heart. love it!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/fC8Ou5g.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/SKfzKUc.jpg)
Had to sacrifice a Next non-adb for this. I don't know where should I clue the apple logo
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/fC8Ou5g.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/SKfzKUc.jpg)
Had to sacrifice a Next non-adb for this. I don't know where should I clue the apple logoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/OIPpVn7.jpg)
Tai Hao Hebrew too? Looks good!
That's the one, I got lucky it's in pristine condition
nice job mikethanks buddy
Nice little board you have there, NOS?yeah it was, but I sold the NOS pine whites a long time ago
I knew samsung batteries broke fast, but damn that's a lot of batteries.
I broke out my 2002 recently for another spin, and it's just such a nice and fun board to use :D . Do you have the dust cover for it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C5fGMrN.jpg)
Hey guys, can I appreciate some Alps with you? I should have bought these years ago instead of mainstream cherry stuff. It's nicer built, cheaper and stylish as well. The Dell is getting the rest of the click mod but I've been using it with only the alphabet section on so that I could notice every time I went for a key with no cap on it. That's right, it's destined for a 60% plate chop. Slightly OT HamKenobi on reddit recently stole this totally original idea and has a great build log. http://imgur.com/a/GDMrP (http://imgur.com/a/GDMrP)
The Focus arrived today and it's immediately taken over. I got it instead of an Omnikey because it seems more ethical to chop a Focus, but I'm in no hurry; this keyboard is great as-is. Overall, 9/10 these Alps are appreciated and I could only wish for some heavier weight springs. I'm giving 80g cherry-stotles one last chance to win me over, but as of right now I'm a convert.
I broke out my 2002 recently for another spin, and it's just such a nice and fun board to use :D . Do you have the dust cover for it?I do not, I wasn't looking for one. It may be superficial but I bid on this one because of the Turbo key in the correct profile for the right shift spot. It has great accents for a 60%: Macro, asterisk, and Turbo. If I had a dust cover it would definitely never be modded.
I am so pleased to finally be able to contribute to this thread. VA78 con AEK and Alps Blues :)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg)
https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg
I am so pleased to finally be able to contribute to this thread. VA78 con AEK and Alps Blues :)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg)
https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg
I am so pleased to finally be able to contribute to this thread. VA78 con AEK and Alps Blues :)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg)
https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg
Looking great. Is the VA78 plate compatible with ALPS? Did you get it from Taobao?
It actually isn't a VA68 plate. The whole package has been designed by /u/ca178858 (Scott). Super helpful guy who has designed the pcb, plate, and qmk firmware for his board -- LFK78. http://imgur.com/a/VLKBM (http://imgur.com/a/VLKBM)
Essentially, it's his creation designed to fit into a VA68 Case (which I still need to buy), but use Alps. I also fully don't know what to call it. VAEK68?
I am so pleased to finally be able to contribute to this thread. VA78 con AEK and Alps Blues :)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg)
https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg
Looking great. Is the VA78 plate compatible with ALPS? Did you get it from Taobao?
It actually isn't a VA68 plate. The whole package has been designed by /u/ca178858 (Scott). Super helpful guy who has designed the pcb, plate, and qmk firmware for his board -- LFK78. http://imgur.com/a/VLKBM (http://imgur.com/a/VLKBM)
Essentially, it's his creation designed to fit into a VA68 Case (which I still need to buy), but use Alps. I also fully don't know what to call it. VAEK68?
It actually isn't a VA68 plate. The whole package has been designed by /u/ca178858 (Scott). Super helpful guy who has designed the pcb, plate, and qmk firmware for his board -- LFK78. http://imgur.com/a/VLKBM (http://imgur.com/a/VLKBM)
Essentially, it's his creation designed to fit into a VA68 Case (which I still need to buy), but use Alps. I also fully don't know what to call it. VAEK68?
Speaking of which, does anyone know how he got nav cluster keys of Alpine Winter with legends? As far as I know, those were not part of the group buy:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qgt2194.jpg)
Probably from skullydazed. He sold some Alpine Winter kits which included extra keys to make it compatible for the Clueboard.
I missed the boat on them due to lack of funds at the time so now I have to find the elusive Alpine Winter: Clueboard Edition keysets aftermarket. :'(
I am so pleased to finally be able to contribute to this thread. VA78 con AEK and Alps Blues :)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg)
https://i.imgur.com/5Yd1VFm.jpg
Looking great. Is the VA78 plate compatible with ALPS? Did you get it from Taobao?
It actually isn't a VA68 plate. The whole package has been designed by /u/ca178858 (Scott). Super helpful guy who has designed the pcb, plate, and qmk firmware for his board -- LFK78. http://imgur.com/a/VLKBM (http://imgur.com/a/VLKBM)
Essentially, it's his creation designed to fit into a VA68 Case (which I still need to buy), but use Alps. I also fully don't know what to call it. VAEK68?
Legit!
This is going to an Alps board for me in the future (for my caps and switches), have to keep an eye to Scott's group buy first.
Responding here as well in case anyone misses it:Probably from skullydazed. He sold some Alpine Winter kits which included extra keys to make it compatible for the Clueboard.
I missed the boat on them due to lack of funds at the time so now I have to find the elusive Alpine Winter: Clueboard Edition keysets aftermarket. :'(
Here's the original link: https://clueboard.co/parts/alpine-winter-alps-dcs-for-60-or-66. But the page seems to have been cleared.
@_rubik
You can't go wrong with either silver or space grey, I think whiter caps go with silver case.
I don't want to let you kill an SGI Granite board... but imagine the Granite caps pair with space grey case? I feel like drooling already.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AtU8XMU.png)
God-sent: such a beautiful case at around $135 "only" (when I compare it to other GB and Korean customs...), and with QMK, and vintage Alps.
The designer's 78-key design doesn't look as promising, I will miss the F keys row forever then.
I think I may try to cut my own plate in SS with Lasergist, is the plate design for the VAEK68 open-source?
By the way, _rubik, how long does it take for you to finish a 3x3x3 rubik cube on average? ;)
@_rubik
You can't go wrong with either silver or space grey, I think whiter caps go with silver case.
I don't want to let you kill an SGI Granite board... but imagine the Granite caps pair with space grey case? I feel like drooling already.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AtU8XMU.png)
God-sent: such a beautiful case at around $135 "only" (when I compare it to other GB and Korean customs...), and with QMK, and vintage Alps.
The designer's 78-key design doesn't look as promising, I will miss the F keys row forever then.
I think I may try to cut my own plate in SS with Lasergist, is the plate design for the VAEK68 open-source?
By the way, _rubik, how long does it take for you to finish a 3x3x3 rubik cube on average? ;)
Well Leopold will actually sell me the case cheap once they get their production issues out of the way, so that's nice.
Also, I'm real slow. Usually around 2 or 3 minutes. It's just a stress relief for me.
I have one of those. Its not put together yet but PSA; the cutout tolerances are tight enough on the PCB, you don't have to solder alps switches.
Also, I emailed Cynthia (zhh19@zhihaihe.cn) and was quoted $70 USD for the case only + $22 for shipping from China.
I have one of those. Its not put together yet but PSA; the cutout tolerances are tight enough on the PCB, you don't have to solder alps switches.
...
I have one of those. Its not put together yet but PSA; the cutout tolerances are tight enough on the PCB, you don't have to solder alps switches.
Also, I emailed Cynthia (zhh19@zhihaihe.cn) and was quoted $70 USD for the case only + $22 for shipping from China.
I have one of those. Its not put together yet but PSA; the cutout tolerances are tight enough on the PCB, you don't have to solder alps switches.
Also, I emailed Cynthia (zhh19@zhihaihe.cn) and was quoted $70 USD for the case only + $22 for shipping from China.
Like the Infinity PCB, right? That's good to know!
I have one of those. Its not put together yet but PSA; the cutout tolerances are tight enough on the PCB, you don't have to solder alps switches.
Also, I emailed Cynthia (zhh19@zhihaihe.cn) and was quoted $70 USD for the case only + $22 for shipping from China.
Like the Infinity PCB, right? That's good to know!
I initially tried the 'no solder approach' and it didn't work what-so-ever. I really only can speak for the LFK78 RevD, but no it's not hotswappable.
IBM 07G0905 (Marvel KB-A103S)From here (https://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ko&u=http://curio.egloos.com/2556386&prev=search).
- Manufacturer: Korea Marvel Co., Ltd. (Made in Korea)
- Year of manufacture: mid-1990s
- Part no. : 07G0905
- EC No. : C81374
- FCC ID: N / A
- Serial No. : 83-44735
- Keycaps printing: Silk printing
- Array: 103 key layout
- Panel: Flat panel
- Connector: PS / 2 connector (6-pin mini DIN)
- Alps white axis switch (Click Tactile)
Ahh, an IBM branded AT101, oh nope. This is different. Hmmm... Yeah, seems like a unique model but it has familiar stylings to other keyboards.
Ahh, an IBM branded AT101, oh nope. This is different. Hmmm... Yeah, seems like a unique model but it has familiar stylings to other keyboards.
It's an Alps LCM30.
Like this:
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qoypsXp.jpg)
just got another alps board in
After typing on it for a couple of minutes, I can definitively conclude that dampened whites aren't for me.
My switch preference from what I've tried so far is now SKCL Greens > SKCM White Damped > TaiHao Aruz
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qoypsXp.jpg)
just got another alps board in
After typing on it for a couple of minutes, I can definitively conclude that dampened whites aren't for me.
My switch preference from what I've tried so far is now SKCL Greens > SKCM White Damped > TaiHao Aruz
Can you try to put in words what you don't like about it?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qoypsXp.jpg)
just got another alps board in
After typing on it for a couple of minutes, I can definitively conclude that dampened whites aren't for me.
My switch preference from what I've tried so far is now SKCL Greens > SKCM White Damped > TaiHao Aruz
Can you try to put in words what you don't like about it?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qoypsXp.jpg)
just got another alps board in
After typing on it for a couple of minutes, I can definitively conclude that dampened whites aren't for me.
My switch preference from what I've tried so far is now SKCL Greens > SKCM White Damped > TaiHao Aruz
Can you try to put in words what you don't like about it?
My favorite switch type is linear. Trying out skcm whites and taihao aruz, I can see now why they're my favorite. With linear switches, when you press down on a switch its just a smooth, uninterrupted press. With whites and aruz, the tactile bumps slow me down. If I try to type as fast as I do on linear switches, I end up missing the second press of a key (hello would come out as helo). This is most likely because I'm not used to having to wait for the bump to reset to press again.
When I type on these 2 kinds of switches, I have to adopt a different typing style where my fingers aren't on the keycaps but hovering about 1 cm over instead. This style allows me to press the switch fast enough to almost not feel the bump at all. Although I'm pressing the key faster, I still have to type slower and more deliberately to get a word out.
Although I don't like the feeling of these switches, I do have to say that the sound that comes out of both these switches is sublime. The sound is just a wonderful deep pitch. Now I don't know if its the switches themselves or a combination of the switches and the case acoustics that produce this sound, but whatever they're doing it sounds fantastic.
Try modding those dampened whites!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qoypsXp.jpg)
just got another alps board in
After typing on it for a couple of minutes, I can definitively conclude that dampened whites aren't for me.
My switch preference from what I've tried so far is now SKCL Greens > SKCM White Damped > TaiHao Aruz
I like thick lips but the sides are too much.
that is freakin sweet. I found one with yellow alps recently for almost nothing in a warehouse, but it couldn't be converted after hours of trial and error, so I just desoldered it.
SKCM Brown >>>>>>>>>>...
TOPRE
Guys... Today on Signature Plastic's website:I just got into mkbs 3 months ago, and I quickly realized that I was an alps guy. Now, just a month later the keyset that I requested is in production for the first time ever. I feel like I'm walking to school downhill both ways :D.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/noq8VHh.png)Show Image(https://media.giphy.com/media/rl0FOxdz7CcxO/giphy.gif)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DlhSmiy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3m3piYU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0xDLIfU.jpg)
Cross-posting with some of my ridiculousness. My favorite keyboard and it likely will always be my favorite because it hits so many buttons. Muh real "endgame" (doesn't mean I'm stopping, haha).
Superb!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DlhSmiy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3m3piYU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0xDLIfU.jpg)
Cross-posting with some of my ridiculousness. My favorite keyboard and it likely will always be my favorite because it hits so many buttons. Muh real "endgame" (doesn't mean I'm stopping, haha).
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DlhSmiy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3m3piYU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0xDLIfU.jpg)
Cross-posting with some of my ridiculousness. My favorite keyboard and it likely will always be my favorite because it hits so many buttons. Muh real "endgame" (doesn't mean I'm stopping, haha).
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DlhSmiy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3m3piYU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0xDLIfU.jpg)
Cross-posting with some of my ridiculousness. My favorite keyboard and it likely will always be my favorite because it hits so many buttons. Muh real "endgame" (doesn't mean I'm stopping, haha).
I have seen you posting the red one too many times. ;)
But what caps and cases and switches do you have for that Numpad?
I also cut down one of my Itoh space bars to 7u to fit on to it. I need to do a build log.
Salmons don't range in tactility, but they do range in condition. Dirty or heavily used ones feel worse. NOS ones are best!I think that something very heavy may have been sitting on top of the keyboard for a long time. The switches don't feel super dirty or heavily used, it's just that there is absolutely zero tactility.
Still think cherry brown is best tactile switch
Still think cherry brown is best tactile switch
You are spending too much time on that G80-5000 ;)
Is there a way to convert matias click switches to like matias quiet click? I just don't care for clickiness anymore.No. Unless you remove the click leaf and make them linear.
Try modding those dampened whites!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qoypsXp.jpg)
just got another alps board in
After typing on it for a couple of minutes, I can definitively conclude that dampened whites aren't for me.
My switch preference from what I've tried so far is now SKCL Greens > SKCM White Damped > TaiHao Aruz
Matias Click leaves inside dampened cream/white feel outstanding.
My DD for the past year and a half has been a modern MX Blue then for about a month SKCM orange that I have click modified, I absolutely loved this board (already listed MX for sale!) but was making many typos since the M0116 moved the home keys to D and K :'( I found there was no acclimatization needed going from MX blue to SKCM oj. Got the bug and bought an SKCM blue, anyone know if I'll need to be lifting finger dumbells to get used to the weight? I type around 4-6 pages of notes per day, with 20-30 minute breaks.
My DD for the past year and a half has been a modern MX Blue then for about a month SKCM orange that I have click modified, I absolutely loved this board (already listed MX for sale!) but was making many typos since the M0116 moved the home keys to D and K :'( I found there was no acclimatization needed going from MX blue to SKCM oj. Got the bug and bought an SKCM blue, anyone know if I'll need to be lifting finger dumbells to get used to the weight? I type around 4-6 pages of notes per day, with 20-30 minute breaks.Nah, SKCM blue isn't that stiff. If worst comes to worst, you can swap the springs with the orange ones I guess.
Nice, the caps fit the pad pretty well :) .
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3yrnQFO.jpg)
<3 <3 <3
Well, they are Tai Hao FAME Cherry profile keycaps. Just think OG Doubleshots with alps stems. Same thickness and everything. I think they are the absolute best alps keycaps ever, however they are VERY rare. The Esc is a GMK cap with the stem swapped. Also, the pipe, enter, and rshift are OG cherry caps stem swapped. you can tell by the different color :mad:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3yrnQFO.jpg)
<3 <3 <3
I need to know more about those keycaps
Also, the pipe, enter, and rshift are OG cherry caps stem swapped. you can tell by the different color :mad:
love you dude no homoAlso, the pipe, enter, and rshift are OG cherry caps stem swapped. you can tell by the different color :mad:
Courtesy of E3E. ;)
love you dude no homoAlso, the pipe, enter, and rshift are OG cherry caps stem swapped. you can tell by the different color :mad:
Courtesy of E3E. ;)
Nice, the caps fit the pad pretty well :) .
Thanks Chyros!
I've got another build log, this time for a Clueboard. This one involved even more trials and tribulations, but I'm happy with the end result. Enjoy!
Alps Clueboard (http://imgur.com/a/nKv8T)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YgRA49B.jpg)
Hey guys. Today I received my M0116 and discovered it has Salmon Alps.salmons seem to range in tactility, but I've tried newish ones and they were good. still think cherry brown is best tactile switch
The switches are not what I was expecting. I barely feel any tactility. They feel less tactile than MX Browns even. It's not bad per-say but it's not really tactile. It's a very even feeling across the board.
I tried cleaning one switch and bending the leaf a bit. This helped though the smoothness didn't seem to improve.
Not totally devastated, didn't pay much for it and it still sounds amazing.
Any other tips?
Is there a way to convert matias click switches to like matias quiet click? I just don't care for clickiness anymore.I saw somewhere that you can use double-sided tape on the click leaves to immobilize them, essentially making them tactile. They won't have the dampened sliders, though.
Where do I buy quality alps stabilizers? These matias ones (https://matias.store/products/stabilizer-and-hook-set) are absolute crap. The stabs are loose, they dont hold the metal well at all. And what to do about the spacebar?
Is it possible to mod costar stabs to fit into alps plate cutouts?
Looking for a set of caps for a TKL WKL Alps board (LZ CLS). Would this Matias set work?
https://matias.store/collections/keycaps-and-switches-1/products/keycaps-white-with-black-printing
Any other suggestions that won't cost an arm and a leg?
Looking for a set of caps for a TKL WKL Alps board (LZ CLS). Would this Matias set work?
https://matias.store/collections/keycaps-and-switches-1/products/keycaps-white-with-black-printing
Any other suggestions that won't cost an arm and a leg?
I always liked the look of dye-sub Wang 725 keycaps on Kingsavers. Miles better than what Matias has available (right now). They can be a bit hard to find at a good price. Bobs Northgate Repair (http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/) has some NiB. There are also SGI granite dye-sub sets if you can live with the italic legends.
Looking for a set of caps for a TKL WKL Alps board (LZ CLS). Would this Matias set work?
https://matias.store/collections/keycaps-and-switches-1/products/keycaps-white-with-black-printing
Any other suggestions that won't cost an arm and a leg?
I always liked the look of dye-sub Wang 725 keycaps on Kingsavers. Miles better than what Matias has available (right now). They can be a bit hard to find at a good price. Bobs Northgate Repair (http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/) has some NiB. There are also SGI granite dye-sub sets if you can live with the italic legends.
Thanks Mandrew. One more question - my plate has a stepped caps lock (LZ CLS), but my PCB allows for both types (Leeku Alphas L3). I'm thinking of widening the hole in the plate for caps lock to accomodate a non-stepped caps lock keycap. Seems relatively simple to do with a dremel. Am I oversimplifying things?
I dunno if theres room really because the LED hole i think that is? I mean I suppose you could just start carving away at the plate... seems extreme to me for something this pretty.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xFXqeMD.jpg)
Speaking of caps locks though... how does the locking cap work? does it actually hold down a key - so like I should be setting it as a left shift? or does the switch actuate and release but physically stays down
I don't mind mixed sets on alps builds, I could've done a better job matching here but I really wanted to use my Wang alphas.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/cm5zEK3.jpg)
haha nice esc key. I remember you told me you liked that.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/rbY8wfR.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MqTAz4l.jpg)
Lucky number 8 :)
Has anyone else found that SKCM blue sound radically different when they are in an aftermarket case? I had mine in a plastic TKL case that used to house Chinese clone Alps and the sound was so different I am pretty sure no one would have thought they were SKCM blue if they weren't told. They almost sounded like a Zealiostotle, ie still loud but quite a bit more high pitched and lacking in bass.
I only have my laptop mic and lousy headset mic so I couldn't make a good recording. The closest I could find was the Kingsaver with SKCM blues, my plastic case sounded very similar.
Wow, that Fjell is mental. Spherical caps are amazing. Also, E3E, where are you finding super thin memory foam?
Does anyone know anything about the retooled MQC? I read a couple anecdotal posts claiming they got their hands on newer Matias switches and they were devoid of wobble, which is great news if it's true.
I posted this on reddit but for those of you not on there;Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/4Hnbsfu.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GDpmO9n.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wEgUQP7.jpg)
Wow, that Fjell is mental. Spherical caps are amazing. Also, E3E, where are you finding super thin memory foam?
Does anyone know anything about the retooled MQC? I read a couple anecdotal posts claiming they got their hands on newer Matias switches and they were devoid of wobble, which is great news if it's true.
I posted this on reddit but for those of you not on there;Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/4Hnbsfu.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GDpmO9n.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wEgUQP7.jpg)
That's Alps? Oo
That's Alps? Oo
Thats definitely ALPS!
Where does one get black on black dyesubs? They look almost like Focus caps that have been dyed black or something.
That blank is lookin' purdy :-*
They were dyed Dell AT101 caps that I sold to Pony. :)
Hey I just bought one of the aluminum AEK's from Clueboard and I was looking for some of the AEK caps with the japanese sublegends. Anyone able to give me a hand on where my best bet would be to find a set?
Hey I just bought one of the aluminum AEK's from Clueboard and I was looking for some of the AEK caps with the japanese sublegends. Anyone able to give me a hand on where my best bet would be to find a set?
I'd hit up a proxy and bid on the Japanese Yahoo auctions personally. Last set I saw sold on reddit went for 130$; even with the international shipping and proxy fees, you'd probably be looking at 80 - 100$ that way. I have an AEK on the way that I did that with - ran me 92$.
Hey I just bought one of the aluminum AEK's from Clueboard and I was looking for some of the AEK caps with the japanese sublegends. Anyone able to give me a hand on where my best bet would be to find a set?
I'd hit up a proxy and bid on the Japanese Yahoo auctions personally. Last set I saw sold on reddit went for 130$; even with the international shipping and proxy fees, you'd probably be looking at 80 - 100$ that way. I have an AEK on the way that I did that with - ran me 92$.
Is yahoo.jp the most active auction? Is ebay an option for this one?
Hey I just bought one of the aluminum AEK's from Clueboard and I was looking for some of the AEK caps with the japanese sublegends. Anyone able to give me a hand on where my best bet would be to find a set?
I'd hit up a proxy and bid on the Japanese Yahoo auctions personally. Last set I saw sold on reddit went for 130$; even with the international shipping and proxy fees, you'd probably be looking at 80 - 100$ that way. I have an AEK on the way that I did that with - ran me 92$.
Is yahoo.jp the most active auction? Is ebay an option for this one?
Yahoo seems to be quite active; I haven't heard many people talk about eBay, but that could be because eBay is easier to sell on internationally? I didn't really look into it extensively, nor did I look extensively into which proxy I used (j-subculture) - I am sure there are better/cheaper, but this one worked just fine for me. I put down a deposit to cover the auction, won (buy-it-now), paid, took a few days to get to them, paid a bit more for that shipping (CoD), requested a shipping quote to me, paid some more (went with EMS shipping, but there is cheaper), and got it shipped.
Hey I just bought one of the aluminum AEK's from Clueboard and I was looking for some of the AEK caps with the japanese sublegends. Anyone able to give me a hand on where my best bet would be to find a set?
I'd hit up a proxy and bid on the Japanese Yahoo auctions personally. Last set I saw sold on reddit went for 130$; even with the international shipping and proxy fees, you'd probably be looking at 80 - 100$ that way. I have an AEK on the way that I did that with - ran me 92$.
Is yahoo.jp the most active auction? Is ebay an option for this one?
Yahoo seems to be quite active; I haven't heard many people talk about eBay, but that could be because eBay is easier to sell on internationally? I didn't really look into it extensively, nor did I look extensively into which proxy I used (j-subculture) - I am sure there are better/cheaper, but this one worked just fine for me. I put down a deposit to cover the auction, won (buy-it-now), paid, took a few days to get to them, paid a bit more for that shipping (CoD), requested a shipping quote to me, paid some more (went with EMS shipping, but there is cheaper), and got it shipped.
Interesting, so j subculture was the proxy you used? Do you have to provide a link for the auction for them then? What did you search for on Yahoo auction?
I expect M-tek K108 to appear on Wednesday, according to seller it has white complicated Alps. I'm looking forward to doing some appreciation myself :)
What proxy did you all go through? Most I have looked up have 0 results for 'AEK' or 'Apple AEK' searches. Maybe I'm just going about it wrong?
What proxy did you all go through? Most I have looked up have 0 results for 'AEK' or 'Apple AEK' searches. Maybe I'm just going about it wrong?Try Apple Extended Keyboard, and proxy buyee.jp
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/zGvS7KZ.jpg)
This board never fails to make me happy. ^-^
I've since used SGI caps (over Acer 6011) to fill out some of the mods that the spherical set does not provide for, and I also stem swapped an NMB space bar in place of the trimmed space bar from the original C.Itoh keyset.
The NMB space bar is PBT, and weird as it is, it actually really fits the C.Itoh profile incredibly well. I was just looking at a space invader board one day and noticed how similar the curve and corners were on the bar.
So, I took it upon myself to do a stem swap and put the bar onto my Mira so I could have a full PBT set free from yellowing. It's great. :D
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/zGvS7KZ.jpg)
This board never fails to make me happy. ^-^
I've since used SGI caps (over Acer 6011) to fill out some of the mods that the spherical set does not provide for, and I also stem swapped an NMB space bar in place of the trimmed space bar from the original C.Itoh keyset.
The NMB space bar is PBT, and weird as it is, it actually really fits the C.Itoh profile incredibly well. I was just looking at a space invader board one day and noticed how similar the curve and corners were on the bar.
So, I took it upon myself to do a stem swap and put the bar onto my Mira so I could have a full PBT set free from yellowing. It's great. :D
That's a beautiful case! I'm really itching to build another alps board, and I'm leaning towards TKL. Just need to find a pcb/aluminum case combo. Any suggestions?
That's a beautiful case! I'm really itching to build another alps board, and I'm leaning towards TKL. Just need to find a pcb/aluminum case combo. Any suggestions?
Built the first of my Alps64 boards: AEK60.
Alps64 PCB, SKCM Orange Alps (stripped, ultrasonic cleaned and dry-lubed; 70cN springs, 85cN space), stainless steel AEK plate, high profile alu case w/ stainless weight and sound dampening, AEK caps (ultrasonic cleaned) and stabs.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/vtLw4Ta.jpg)
Build album: https://imgur.com/a/9wR77
It types sooo nice :cool:
Built the first of my Alps64 boards: AEK60.
Alps64 PCB, SKCM Orange Alps (stripped, ultrasonic cleaned and dry-lubed; 70cN springs, 85cN space), stainless steel AEK plate, high profile alu case w/ stainless weight and sound dampening, AEK caps (ultrasonic cleaned) and stabs.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/vtLw4Ta.jpg)
Build album: https://imgur.com/a/9wR77
It types sooo nice :cool:
What are the springs from
Can someone help me with the font used in these keyboards?
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Wanted to know the apple ones. Thank you.Can someone help me with the font used in these keyboards?
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
What keyboards?
Most use helvetica. I think the SGI uses an oblique futura font. AEK/Apple boards use Univers 57.
]Wanted to know the apple ones. Thank you.
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
What are the springs from
Sprit sells aftermarket springs
Have any of you been following dotdash32 on r/mk? Check this out:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/7b82w5/alps_to_mx_adapter_is_working/
This isn't the same adapter that has been floating around Deskthority. This is more like a replacement stem that sits inside the switch.
First Alps board on the way soon, just got this guy NIB after being sealed away.
(Attachment Link)
Complicated Whites I think? Board is from 1990 so hopefully an earlier iteration of the switch.
aren't the top row switches usually something smaller? I'm surprised you were able to fit full size orange alps up there.
Well, I guess i better like alps. got an SGI granite otw now too :blank: :blank: :blank: :blank:
Well, I guess i better like alps. got an SGI granite otw now too :blank: :blank: :blank: :blank:
I've got another SGI on the way as well:) Theres a lot to love. Nice layout, construction, switches, style, caps... The dampening mechanism, feel and sound vs mtsqc was really awesome to me. There is a very noticeable difference between the most and least used of cream damped switches. You're in for some fun between that and the switchboard. NOS/NIB alps things are a treat
aren't the top row switches usually something smaller? I'm surprised you were able to fit full size orange alps up there.
On that note, can those keys even fully bottom out? It doesn't look like the caps can clear the housings properly, but I could be wrong.
Well, I guess i better like alps. got an SGI granite otw now too :blank: :blank: :blank: :blank:
I've got another SGI on the way as well:) Theres a lot to love. Nice layout, construction, switches, style, caps... The dampening mechanism, feel and sound vs mtsqc was really awesome to me. There is a very noticeable difference between the most and least used of cream damped switches. You're in for some fun between that and the switchboard. NOS/NIB alps things are a treat
I actually want to swap the granite over to Complicated Blues, but i have no clue if it's possible. Also want to swap the green LEDs to blue. Prolly in my top 5 of best looking KBs, so i wanna make it special.
aren't the top row switches usually something smaller? I'm surprised you were able to fit full size orange alps up there.The originals were full sized as well.
aren't the top row switches usually something smaller? I'm surprised you were able to fit full size orange alps up there.
On that note, can those keys even fully bottom out? It doesn't look like the caps can clear the housings properly, but I could be wrong.
The top row caps sit on top of the switch, they never clear the housing. Source: I have one of these (Siig Minitouch). That being said, I can't type fast than 40 wpm on this thing without keypresses getting skipped, so it's pretty much useless. My model has the ivory four tab clones.I think I hit you up on reddit already. Basically, I think the issue is either the extreme stiffness of the ivory clone switches, or your PS/2 to USB adapter, or perhaps a bit of both. I haven't had such issues since changing them to oranges.
Soarer revised his firmware in its last iteration to accommodate the Leading Edge. You have to connect the 5th wire to the "Reset" pin on the Teensy.
So regardless I would have to solder the wire to the teensy? No way to go without soldering eh, even with a Hagstrom converter or something?
Do ultrasonic cleaners truly make that much of a difference? If so, will any cheap one work? I'm assuming this isn't a jewelry grade ordeal.
How does one ultrasonically clean switches? Do they need to be disassembled? Could switches that cannot be disassembled be ultrasonically cleaned, perhaps with alcohol added to the solution?
I would love to try to clean my futaba ma switches as well as my NEC blue ovals.
I named two.How does one ultrasonically clean switches? Do they need to be disassembled? Could switches that cannot be disassembled be ultrasonically cleaned, perhaps with alcohol added to the solution?
I would love to try to clean my futaba ma switches as well as my NEC blue ovals.
I might not be the best one to answer your question, but yeah you disassemble the switch and place the housing and stem (all the plastic bits in). I don't know of many switches that cant at least have the stem removed.
How does one ultrasonically clean switches? Do they need to be disassembled? Could switches that cannot be disassembled be ultrasonically cleaned, perhaps with alcohol added to the solution?
I would love to try to clean my futaba ma switches as well as my NEC blue ovals.
I named two.How does one ultrasonically clean switches? Do they need to be disassembled? Could switches that cannot be disassembled be ultrasonically cleaned, perhaps with alcohol added to the solution?
I would love to try to clean my futaba ma switches as well as my NEC blue ovals.
I might not be the best one to answer your question, but yeah you disassemble the switch and place the housing and stem (all the plastic bits in). I don't know of many switches that cant at least have the stem removed.
I named two.How does one ultrasonically clean switches? Do they need to be disassembled? Could switches that cannot be disassembled be ultrasonically cleaned, perhaps with alcohol added to the solution?
I would love to try to clean my futaba ma switches as well as my NEC blue ovals.
I might not be the best one to answer your question, but yeah you disassemble the switch and place the housing and stem (all the plastic bits in). I don't know of many switches that cant at least have the stem removed.
I would love for someone to put together a definitive thread of info on the whole ultrasonic cleaning aspects and results. Theres a lot of speculation surrounding them and what they can and cannot do to help clean switch components.
Hey everyone, this thread is a superb gem, thanks for it. Owners of a Alps64, which case did you guys use? Pics are very welcome. Also any opinions on how does Alps feel with plastic and wooden cases?I think alps sounds best on a steel plate and in a plastic body. I would guess the same could be said about wooden as well.
I named two.
I don't know ofmanymany switches that cant at least have the stem removed.
Got my granite today, but neither control key works :'(The SGI Bigfoot series has a nice case and keycaps (if you can tolerate the font) but I can't say any of the switch varieties it was fitted with are very redeeming. Good for base for switch swaps though.
otherwise super solid, and the switches feel pretty nice.
Hey everyone, this thread is a superb gem, thanks for it. Owners of a Alps64, which case did you guys use? Pics are very welcome. Also any opinions on how does Alps feel with plastic and wooden cases?
Got my granite today, but neither control key works :'(The SGI Bigfoot series has a nice case and keycaps (if you can tolerate the font) but I can't say any of the switch varieties it was fitted with are very redeeming. Good for base for switch swaps though.
otherwise super solid, and the switches feel pretty nice.
Oh well, i at least got some unboxing pictures, sorry for the spam hahaShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/n4wHWIb.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/vHTPvrV.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Zddchff.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VjlGJDL.jpg)
Oh well, i at least got some unboxing pictures, sorry for the spam hahaShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/n4wHWIb.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/vHTPvrV.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Zddchff.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VjlGJDL.jpg)
Did you restart your computer after you plug in the keyboard?
Yes, rerstarted after every change in the dip switches.
Looks good! I always want to see people do a little dyeing up with AEK/M0116 caps for a bit more contrast, but it does look nice as is.
Looks good! I always want to see people do a little dyeing up with AEK/M0116 caps for a bit more contrast, but it does look nice as is.
I've been wondering about that myself. I'm about to build my second AEK build (this time a 60), and was wondering how I could switch it up a little. I'm curious how a charcoal gray dye would look.
Looks good! I always want to see people do a little dyeing up with AEK/M0116 caps for a bit more contrast, but it does look nice as is.
I've been wondering about that myself. I'm about to build my second AEK build (this time a 60), and was wondering how I could switch it up a little. I'm curious how a charcoal gray dye would look.
That's exactly the same color I was considering. I think it'd look nice as a mod color or for the whole set.
I'm curious how a charcoal gray dye would look.
It's super custom with a beta version of a fully programmable Bluetooth PCB and it uses a laser cut acrylic adapter plate to mount the PCB without modifying the case at all.
Ummm... can we get a build thread about this thing? It sounds amazing!
Oh snap, I should have seen this reply sooner.I expect M-tek K108 to appear on Wednesday, according to seller it has white complicated Alps. I'm looking forward to doing some appreciation myself :)
Nice man! It probably has the four-tab ALPS clone below but it should be a good alps experience nonetheless! Clicky ALPS are a lot of fun:)
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1 (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1)
Oh snap, I should have seen this reply sooner.I expect M-tek K108 to appear on Wednesday, according to seller it has white complicated Alps. I'm looking forward to doing some appreciation myself :)
Nice man! It probably has the four-tab ALPS clone below but it should be a good alps experience nonetheless! Clicky ALPS are a lot of fun:)
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1 (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1)
It actually has white Alps of the "pine" variety.
https://imgur.com/a/aac43
About a dozen switches had the issue with upstroke click, but gently squeezing the clickleaf and switchplate contacts of each switch did the job.
Nice man! It probably has the four-tab ALPS clone below but it should be a good alps experience nonetheless! Clicky ALPS are a lot of fun:)I had a siig minitouch with this switch. I hated it so much I had the switches pulled within 24 hours. The switch was unbelievably stiff before actuation began. However, the switch SOUNDS amazing, and the feel is good, but the extreme stiffness was next level, and there was no way I could handle it. Just wanted to put my opinion out there.
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1 (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1)
Nice man! It probably has the four-tab ALPS clone below but it should be a good alps experience nonetheless! Clicky ALPS are a lot of fun:)I had a siig minitouch with this switch. I hated it so much I had the switches pulled within 24 hours. The switch was unbelievably stiff before actuation began. However, the switch SOUNDS amazing, and the feel is good, but the extreme stiffness was next level, and there was no way I could handle it. Just wanted to put my opinion out there.
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1 (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1)
Well, because of that switch, I have a siig minitouch with orange alps now, which is my favorite keyboard. In fact, I like it so much, I have a hard time actually using it, out of fear I will wear out the switches. xDNice man! It probably has the four-tab ALPS clone below but it should be a good alps experience nonetheless! Clicky ALPS are a lot of fun:)I had a siig minitouch with this switch. I hated it so much I had the switches pulled within 24 hours. The switch was unbelievably stiff before actuation began. However, the switch SOUNDS amazing, and the feel is good, but the extreme stiffness was next level, and there was no way I could handle it. Just wanted to put my opinion out there.
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1 (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps.tw_Type_T1)
I can't deal with very stiff switches either. Maybe a "good ALPS experience" wasn't the right way to phrase that. I meant more that, as a clone, it should still be a good example of the function of ALPS and what there is to appreciate about them. I've never actually tried those switches before. Alas, he got the real deal anyway!
This was sitting in my garage. I was talking to my dad about old keyboards yesterday morning and when I came home, he told me he remembered he still has one very old keyboard. It was his first keyboard that he got with his first PC, which he still has as well. He gave the board to me as an early birthday present.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5NT9uWD.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xwEAzT3.jpg)
This was sitting in my garage. I was talking to my dad about old keyboards yesterday morning and when I came home, he told me he remembered he still has one very old keyboard. It was his first keyboard that he got with his first PC, which he still has as well. He gave the board to me as an early birthday present.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5NT9uWD.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xwEAzT3.jpg)
Whattttt. Now that's a fabulous switch to stumble on. Any plans for it? Keep it as is for harvesting for some big build?
I had a siig minitouch with this switch. I hated it so much I had the switches pulled within 24 hours. The switch was unbelievably stiff before actuation began. However, the switch SOUNDS amazing, and the feel is good, but the extreme stiffness was next level, and there was no way I could handle it. Just wanted to put my opinion out there.
You could salvage them with lighter springs, but it is a massive pain, especially since the cut down switch plate on those clone switches like to catch on the housing, ruining them. They are easy to get apart but a nightmare to reassemble. Cherry springs will not work though.I had a siig minitouch with this switch. I hated it so much I had the switches pulled within 24 hours. The switch was unbelievably stiff before actuation began. However, the switch SOUNDS amazing, and the feel is good, but the extreme stiffness was next level, and there was no way I could handle it. Just wanted to put my opinion out there.
I've got those awful clones in my MiniTouch too. I was really hoping somebody here at some suggestions for what to do with them...unfortunately replacing them with another Alps switch isn't really an option for me since I don't have any others on hand.
The board is basically unusable in its current state. Lost the MiniTouch lottery I guess (I was really hoping for Monterey switches but it was a new in box keyboard so I didn't know what I was getting...).
This was sitting in my garage. I was talking to my dad about old keyboards yesterday morning and when I came home, he told me he remembered he still has one very old keyboard. It was his first keyboard that he got with his first PC, which he still has as well. He gave the board to me as an early birthday present.I suppose that's an Ortek OEM product, but I've never heard of that model before Oo . Regardless, that's quite a find, congratulations! :DShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/5NT9uWD.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xwEAzT3.jpg)
This was sitting in my garage. I was talking to my dad about old keyboards yesterday morning and when I came home, he told me he remembered he still has one very old keyboard. It was his first keyboard that he got with his first PC, which he still has as well. He gave the board to me as an early birthday present.If you cannot get the keyboard converted and want to keep the keyboard in it's current case, I have a PCB that supports the layout and uses a teensy 2++.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5NT9uWD.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xwEAzT3.jpg)
This was sitting in my garage. I was talking to my dad about old keyboards yesterday morning and when I came home, he told me he remembered he still has one very old keyboard. It was his first keyboard that he got with his first PC, which he still has as well. He gave the board to me as an early birthday present.If you cannot get the keyboard converted and want to keep the keyboard in it's current case, I have a PCB that supports the layout and uses a teensy 2++.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5NT9uWD.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xwEAzT3.jpg)
This second bump is normal on Matias switches, it's caused by the metal contacts.Oh I see. That makes sense. I am slowly no longer even noticing it, and I started questioning my initial reaction. It is definitely subtle, but noticeable if you come from a switch that does not have this.
Question, my matias quiet pro showed up today, but there is something weird about the feel, or perhaps I am spoiled by oranges. After the tactile bump, it feels like there is a second smaller build up in pressure, which releases again, and this is consistent across all switches. Is this just friction I am feeling, or is there something different about the new switches.
I have heard people compare the feel of typing on one as splashing into a pool of water, and I totally understand what they mean by that now, but I can't help but notice the friction. The high tactility that gives way a lot is exactly why I like oranges, but the friction or whatever after that just feels strange. Can that be helped with lube? I thought these switches came factory lubed.
Also some of the switches rattle badly, and are louder than some of my clicky switches. Not very 'quiet'. Even my zealios board is quieter than this one due to tactile leaf clicking.
Edit: The later was due to the switch being cold as I just pulled it from outside. As it has warmed up, the clicking has stopped. I guess the switches were never actuated after assembled and the lube froze. However, there is still a bit of tactile leaf rattle going on, more than my oranges. I will see if that stops with use. However, it could be the sound of the stem slamming into the base that masks the sound of the tactile leaf rattling on orange switches, not too sure about that.
Good switches, better than any cherry tactile switch in feel, even zealios, but no match for oranges, that is for sure. Just trying to figure out if there is something 'off' about my batch of quiet switches, so I don't have a false opinion of them.
The Matias switches still have some of the clunkiness that all simplified Alps do which might explain that weird "second bump"Clunkiness is a good word. It feels a bit chaotic compared to older alps that I am used to. It is still good, but it feels sloppy in comparison. As I said, it probably is just me spoiled by vintage alps. On older alps, once you overcome the bump, it feels like the bottom falls out and you don't really feel much resistance until you bottom out the slider, but on matias, you can definitely feel extra resistance before the rubber bumper bottoms out, which adds a third type of resistance. This adds up to a press feeling chaotic to me, like you get too many different forms of tactility overlapping sloppily.
The Matias switches still have some of the clunkiness that all simplified Alps do which might explain that weird "second bump"Clunkiness is a good word. It feels a bit chaotic compared to older alps that I am used to. It is still good, but it feels sloppy in comparison. As I said, it probably is just me spoiled by vintage alps. On older alps, once you overcome the bump, it feels like the bottom falls out and you don't really feel much resistance until you bottom out the slider, but on matias, you can definitely feel extra resistance before the rubber bumper bottoms out, which adds a third type of resistance. This adds up to a press feeling chaotic to me, like you get too many different forms of tactility overlapping sloppily.
This, of course, is simply in comparison. For a modern switch, they are still very nice, and I am not trying to convince anyone to not get them a try. It is just not the same as the old alps.
They also feel more bindy as well, but I forgive it for that. Alps have always been a bit bindy in comparison to cherry, regardless of the manufacturer. I have come to actually kind of like it in a strange way.
Dude, nice! The DT wiki for the K108 could maybe use a little updating with this information then! Thats a lovely board!It's done. I'll take a top picture of it later and add to the wiki page.
Here are some fun Alps keycaps:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PdrzKxN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e9gmqfq.jpg)
Here are some fun Alps keycaps:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PdrzKxN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e9gmqfq.jpg)
Sorry to dig up such an old post, but does anyone know if these are SKCC or SKCL/SKCM?
Here are some fun Alps keycaps:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PdrzKxN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e9gmqfq.jpg)
Sorry to dig up such an old post, but does anyone know if these are SKCC or SKCL/SKCM?
They're SKEW, or Alps integrated domes.
Here are some fun Alps keycaps:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PdrzKxN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e9gmqfq.jpg)
Sorry to dig up such an old post, but does anyone know if these are SKCC or SKCL/SKCM?
They're SKEW, or Alps integrated domes.
Great! Looks like I've finally found a keycap donor!
I've been hunting for spherical alps caps since Multistation boards seem impossible to find. With Yamaha MSX keycaps I'll only be missing a 1.75u shift, 1.5 backslash key (most likely a second tab key), and an ansi enter.
Or, if I could find a spherical bigass enter I could kill two birds with one stone, but that's even more impossible.
Here are some fun Alps keycaps:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PdrzKxN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/e9gmqfq.jpg)
Sorry to dig up such an old post, but does anyone know if these are SKCC or SKCL/SKCM?
They're SKEW, or Alps integrated domes.
Great! Looks like I've finally found a keycap donor!
I've been hunting for spherical alps caps since Multistation boards seem impossible to find. With Yamaha MSX keycaps I'll only be missing a 1.75u shift, 1.5 backslash key (most likely a second tab key), and an ansi enter.
Or, if I could find a spherical bigass enter I could kill two birds with one stone, but that's even more impossible.
Yeah, these boards have lovely caps, but I have to inform you that they are not deeply scooped. The "MSX sculpted profile," as I call it, is actually rather flat on the top of the keys, whereas the Multistation's keys, while very similar in profile sculpt, have deep and noticeable scooping, the deepest of any of the Alps spherical profiles, from my experience.
Still, if you're after a good looking set, the MSX sets are amazing aesthetically.
Refurbing the SKCM Browns boyos...Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/6pEwigT.jpg?1)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/DEBroIo.jpg?1)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/eaPlU4m.jpg?1)
Stripped, ultrasonic cleaned, dry-lubed the stems, swapped for the springs -- 70cN and 85cN for the space.
Sadly only managed to source 58 of these, but need 60 for my planned build / layout. Fortunately I have a locking switch for Caps Lock that I've been eager to use, and I'm subbing-in an SKCM Orange in a lesser used key.
The board should be finished soon, just soldering the PCB, so will post more photos soon.
That's some mighty finger strength you got there.
That's some mighty finger strength you got there.
Aren't replacement springs measured at bottom-out rather than actuation?
And where did you get those? I would love to have some myself.
That's some mighty finger strength you got there.
Aren't replacement springs measured at bottom-out rather than actuation?
And where did you get those? I would love to have some myself.
The cheap little plastic box they get sent in is... cute. All scattered loosely in a box with labeling that looks like it was meant for the shelf of a gas station. For professional gamer :))
I prefer it to flat display boxes sellotaped together, which will fall apart scattering the keys inside the cardboard box anyway :PThe cheap little plastic box they get sent in is... cute. All scattered loosely in a box with labeling that looks like it was meant for the shelf of a gas station. For professional gamer :))
There is that :))
But it makes a bit more sense than a large expensive display box that would cost a fortune to ship around the world.
The cheap little plastic box they get sent in is... cute. All scattered loosely in a box with labeling that looks like it was meant for the shelf of a gas station...
The cheap little plastic box they get sent in is... cute. All scattered loosely in a box with labeling that looks like it was meant for the shelf of a gas station. For professional gamer :))
There is that :))
But it makes a bit more sense than a large expensive display box that would cost a fortune to ship around the world.
I prefer it to flat display boxes sellotaped together, which will fall apart scattering the keys inside the cardboard box anyway :P
What dry lube (where is the source also?) do most of you use?
And how to apply them?
I have some Alps switches but I have yet to ultrasonic clean them and then lube them.
Got some decent photos in daylight today. Semi-nude to show of that brassss. Initial impressions, feels great, very deep feeling. Need to get the rest of the caps and some lubed stabs on it tonight and have a decent typing session on it.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/XYetxy8.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/lqgMKyr.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/SWrsp6W.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/vIFsajt.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/ZVxurmg.jpg)
Here's a question for y'all:Because they think they can get away with a simplified, cheaper design without people noticing.
Why doesn't someone make a good reproduction of Alps Blues? Everyone's so wacky over them, and vintage boards with them command such silly high prices.
Could it be that hard for one of these many clone-makers to reproduce them down to the last detail? They seem to have done that with everything else. I'd buy some.
where did you get a brass alps plate? What kind of stabilizer do you have on the space bar?
This looks very nice. Great work. I've been trying to buy AEKII boards off ebay for weeks now to no avail just to harvest alps switches. Can't seem to find any good deals.
Why doesn't someone make a good reproduction of Alps Blues?...Because they think they can get away with a simplified, cheaper design without people noticing.
Why doesn't someone make a good reproduction of Alps Blues?...Because they think they can get away with a simplified, cheaper design without people noticing.
They're just switches, right?
They're just switches, right?
I'm not gonna say I know everything that goes on in developing a switch but I think you're undermining the efforts that go into it.
They're just switches, right?
I'm not gonna say I know everything that goes on in developing a switch but I think you're undermining the efforts that go into it.
Sorry, you think I'm undermining the idea? But I started the discussion. Are you sure you know what "undermine" means?:
undermine (n.) to remove the foundation or support of subtly or by underhand means; subvert or weaken insidiously or secretly <"the way a writer handles the social situation either supports or undermines it"–Peter Crowcroft> <"selling below cost to undermine competition"–Time>
Well, maybe you guys are right. It just seemed to me that since:
- There's such an Alps Blue mania in KB communities around the world, with people paying over $200 for otherwise pretty pedestrian '90s boards containing them; and
Guess who's back? ;)
Guess who's back? ;)
Back again?
Guess who's back? ;)
Back again?
Hint: Not Shady.
What's up? Only just back myself. :)
What's up? Only just back myself. :)
Not too much. Appears people are still clacking away even a year and a half later.
Hi hi. I suppose I should probably update my location since I moved... And to avoid going too off topic I suppose I should also actually post something Alps related. So here goes:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/8RFFuPg.jpg)
Nice!
Ah, but your Current Keyboards spreadsheet in your sig says Total Keyboards Owned = 0. Lies!
Haha yeah I haven't touched anything keyboard related in over a year. I have a long weekend so I might spend a few hours cleaning up the storage room and figuring out what exactly I have left. I might start proxying stuff from Japan again, just need to make sure I don't go insane with keyboards like I did in the past.
Yeah a lot of it was that collector mentality: "But what if I never see one of these again?!"
And then you have to realize that the answer to that question is, nothing. I actually use an Apple Magic keyboard at work now, which I never would have done a year ago.
Alps all feel slightly bindy when pressed off center. It is a quirk of alps you get used to. Cherry spoils people here as they don't care about off center key presses.
You don't NEED an ultrasonic cleaner to clean them, but its helpful. You need to take care to clean all the grime from the sharp corners, as this is where the friction is coming from. Lastly, I would recommend adding all the sliders to a bag with a bit of dry lube and shaking them up, so the sliders are lightly coated. Don't add lube to the switch itself, it only makes it worse dealing with dirt.
Okay people. Need some advice from the Alps crowd here. Got an AEKII from ebay today. It looks great. Has not yellowed at all. It has dampened cream alps. However, the switches feel terrible. Most of them feel gritty and some are hard to press at first, especially when not pressed on center. I'm assuming it's because they are dirty??
I was thinking about getting an ultrasonic cleaner. If I clean all of the sliders and top housings, will the switches feel better? I can also lubricate them if it will help.
If this isn't the right place to ask, just point me in the right direction. :thumb:
Okay people. Need some advice from the Alps crowd here. Got an AEKII from ebay today. It looks great. Has not yellowed at all. It has dampened cream alps. However, the switches feel terrible. Most of them feel gritty and some are hard to press at first, especially when not pressed on center. I'm assuming it's because they are dirty??
I was thinking about getting an ultrasonic cleaner. If I clean all of the sliders and top housings, will the switches feel better? I can also lubricate them if it will help.
If this isn't the right place to ask, just point me in the right direction. :thumb:
I don't like how dampened cream Alps feel at all, so it's possible the switches aren't up your alley even if they are cleaned.
Okay people. Need some advice from the Alps crowd here. Got an AEKII from ebay today. It looks great. Has not yellowed at all. It has dampened cream alps. However, the switches feel terrible. Most of them feel gritty and some are hard to press at first, especially when not pressed on center. I'm assuming it's because they are dirty??
I was thinking about getting an ultrasonic cleaner. If I clean all of the sliders and top housings, will the switches feel better? I can also lubricate them if it will help.
If this isn't the right place to ask, just point me in the right direction. :thumb:
I don't like how dampened cream Alps feel at all, so it's possible the switches aren't up your alley even if they are cleaned.
Very possible. I cleaned just one, and I do feel a difference, but I just don’t think I’m a fan of them. I have some click modded salmon alps on hand. Now I need to decide if I want to Replace the switches in the AEkii or just make a new board using the keycaps.
Okay people. Need some advice from the Alps crowd here. Got an AEKII from ebay today. It looks great. Has not yellowed at all. It has dampened cream alps. However, the switches feel terrible. Most of them feel gritty and some are hard to press at first, especially when not pressed on center. I'm assuming it's because they are dirty??
I was thinking about getting an ultrasonic cleaner. If I clean all of the sliders and top housings, will the switches feel better? I can also lubricate them if it will help.
If this isn't the right place to ask, just point me in the right direction. :thumb:
I don't like how dampened cream Alps feel at all, so it's possible the switches aren't up your alley even if they are cleaned.
Very possible. I cleaned just one, and I do feel a difference, but I just don’t think I’m a fan of them. I have some click modded salmon alps on hand. Now I need to decide if I want to Replace the switches in the AEkii or just make a new board using the keycaps.
I vote for new board. There are several Alps options on the market now, and to me the AEKII is just meh.
Honestly I was thinking about buying an AEK II just to rip out the switches, not to use as-is. They're relatively cheap and accessible. But I'm surprised you guys are so negative about the switches as I generally have heard good things about them.
How would you compare the AEK II switches to a Matias 'quiet click'?
Honestly I was thinking about buying an AEK II just to rip out the switches, not to use as-is. They're relatively cheap and accessible. But I'm surprised you guys are so negative about the switches as I generally have heard good things about them.
How would you compare the AEK II switches to a Matias 'quiet click'?
Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.
Even though I'm not a fan of Cream Damped, I might buy another AEK to use at work.
By the way, are there any TKL or 100% Alps boards with aluminum cases (that aren't selling for $800+ like the Kingsaver)?
You could always get a KBParadise V80 MTS and put it in one of the TEX alu cases.
Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.
Www.lfkeyboards.com
Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.
Www.lfkeyboards.com
Thank you very much for the suggestion, although I'm looking for a 60 pcb to fit in a standard 60 case or 65 to fit in a TADA kind of case. Might consider a 68 though, not too much wider actually.
Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.
Www.lfkeyboards.com
Thank you very much for the suggestion, although I'm looking for a 60 pcb to fit in a standard 60 case or 65 to fit in a TADA kind of case. Might consider a 68 though, not too much wider actually.
http://www.lfkeyboards.com/smk65.html (http://www.lfkeyboards.com/smk65.html)
Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.
Delirious' suggestion is a great one. If you need the split spacebar, LFKeyboards has their 68-key Alps PCB:
http://www.lfkeyboards.com/lfk78-pcb-68key.html
Delirious' suggestion is a great one. If you need the split spacebar, LFKeyboards has their 68-key Alps PCB:
http://www.lfkeyboards.com/lfk78-pcb-68key.html
Where would you get a case for one of those PCBs without buying a whole VA68M just for its case? Because those aren't exactly cheap.
Considering building out a TKL, but not sure whether I should get aluminum or acrylic. Suggestions?
Considering building out a TKL, but not sure whether I should get aluminum or acrylic. Suggestions?
I like the sound of acrylic and the feeling of aluminum, so are you going to use linears or tactiles/clickies?
Most likely green but I might swap in my blues at some point. I think I'm liking the look of acrylic but then I'd probably be tempted to also add LEDs...
So, blindassassin is working on the "nexus" sliders to allow MX caps to be used on alps switches. He's also come up with an interesting solution for cherry to alps stabilizer inserts. I'm posting this link here for anyone interested. This would also work for SP alps caps (granite, light cycle, alpine winter) that come with cherry stabilizer cruciforms.
The sliders:
(Attachment Link)
The stabilizer fix:
(Attachment Link)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93403
So, blindassassin is working on the "nexus" sliders to allow MX caps to be used on alps switches. He's also come up with an interesting solution for cherry to alps stabilizer inserts. I'm posting this link here for anyone interested. This would also work for SP alps caps (granite, light cycle, alpine winter) that come with cherry stabilizer cruciforms.
The sliders:
(Attachment Link)
The stabilizer fix:
(Attachment Link)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93403
So, blindassassin is working on the "nexus" sliders to allow MX caps to be used on alps switches. He's also come up with an interesting solution for cherry to alps stabilizer inserts. I'm posting this link here for anyone interested. This would also work for SP alps caps (granite, light cycle, alpine winter) that come with cherry stabilizer cruciforms.
The sliders:
(Attachment Link)
The stabilizer fix:
(Attachment Link)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93403
I don't think that offset is needed, actually.
There's precedent of these adapters on vintage Alps keyboards already, as seen on the ADDS 1010 terminal keyboard here:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/DdPscvM.jpg)
The offset is needed on mx keycaps. Their stabilizer stems are set further in.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xTBVB4L.jpg?1)
Here's what I mean. I'm pretty sure the 7u positioning of stabs is the same on SP's MX caps, or is that not the case? It also matches the spacing on 7u vintage space bars that used MX stabs despite being Alps mount for the switch.
Cherry's are a bit off in comparison, speaking as someone who's stem-swapped Gateron space bars for some Alps builds using Cherry stabs.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xTBVB4L.jpg?1)
Here's what I mean. I'm pretty sure the 7u positioning of stabs is the same on SP's MX caps, or is that not the case? It also matches the spacing on 7u vintage space bars that used MX stabs despite being Alps mount for the switch.
Cherry's are a bit off in comparison, speaking as someone who's stem-swapped Gateron space bars for some Alps builds using Cherry stabs.
This is what I was asking about before. I'm under the impression that you don't need anything to use MX stabs if you don't rise the stems in ALPS.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xTBVB4L.jpg?1)
Here's what I mean. I'm pretty sure the 7u positioning of stabs is the same on SP's MX caps, or is that not the case? It also matches the spacing on 7u vintage space bars that used MX stabs despite being Alps mount for the switch.
Cherry's are a bit off in comparison, speaking as someone who's stem-swapped Gateron space bars for some Alps builds using Cherry stabs.
This is what I was asking about before. I'm under the impression that you don't need anything to use MX stabs if you don't rise the stems in ALPS.
Right. I've actually made my own MX stabs but shaving down traditional Alps stabs to fit into the Y axis of the cruciform mount, and then just bended wire for it myself. It's what I use on my FJELL build!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bg30Tms.jpg)
This one uses a Cherry-style space bar from the Tai Hao FAME TH-5539 model that has Cherry clone keycaps that are Alps mount. Yeah, all it took was modifying the inserts to fit and bending wire and it was good to go.
I might not have needed to bend the wire had I not chosen to use normal stab inserts as opposed to the long space bar ones (which I like to hold onto).
You have to use the long ones because the wire is taller and has to slide up more. If you just use costar inserts the keycap won't press all the way down.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xTBVB4L.jpg?1)
Here's what I mean. I'm pretty sure the 7u positioning of stabs is the same on SP's MX caps, or is that not the case? It also matches the spacing on 7u vintage space bars that used MX stabs despite being Alps mount for the switch.
Cherry's are a bit off in comparison, speaking as someone who's stem-swapped Gateron space bars for some Alps builds using Cherry stabs.
This is what I was asking about before. I'm under the impression that you don't need anything to use MX stabs if you don't rise the stems in ALPS.
Right. I've actually made my own MX stabs but shaving down traditional Alps stabs to fit into the Y axis of the cruciform mount, and then just bended wire for it myself. It's what I use on my FJELL build!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bg30Tms.jpg)
This one uses a Cherry-style space bar from the Tai Hao FAME TH-5539 model that has Cherry clone keycaps that are Alps mount. Yeah, all it took was modifying the inserts to fit and bending wire and it was good to go.
I might not have needed to bend the wire had I not chosen to use normal stab inserts as opposed to the long space bar ones (which I like to hold onto).
I can't picture what you describe here, can you post some pics?
So, if I want to use Lightcycle with regular MX stabs, all I'll need to do is bend some wire, is that correct?
Also, beautiful board, as always E3! :thumb: :thumb:
I can't picture what you describe here, can you post some pics?
So, if I want to use Lightcycle with regular MX stabs, all I'll need to do is bend some wire, is that correct?
Also, beautiful board, as always E3! :thumb: :thumb:
Sure, I'll see if I can take some pictures for you. Yep, bend some wire and use a file or rotary tool to thin down the Alps cap insert so it can fit into the MX mount stab in the cap. Then you just bend wire that fits properly into it, and you're good to go.
Also, thank you! It's definitely one of my favorite Alps boards.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/oXEZwsl.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/6pQs4u2.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/q7v5oCj.jpg)
Inspired by Chyrosran22 I decided to visit my local recycling center to look for keyboards. They certainly did have lots of keyboards but the vast majority were crappy rubber domes not worth a second glance...Could be Dampened White, Alps used those a fair bit during their last years.
Then I found this:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/aF6I5JD.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/i7mMYIz.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/vk5flzq.jpg)
The box was a little beat up but the keyboard inside was absolutely pristine. In fact it doesn't look like it's ever been used at all. That red "Important" sticker was there from the start. While I'm not entirely sure what I would do with that tiny trackpad that's included I tested it out and it does indeed work. Oh yeah and it's got a split spacebar even. That's neat enough to make me forgive the tiny backspace key.
This thing cost me a whopping $5. Viva recycling centers!
But the really curious thing about this keyboard to me is the switches. Based on the age (it has WIndows keys and all that) I would assume it's using simplified Alps. And the slider is definitely white. But let's just say that these are the quietest white alps I've ever encountered. The keyboard itself isn't particularly quiet but that seems to mostly be due to the keys bottoming out. If I take a keycap off and play with the switches...well, there's a slight noise to them but certainly nothing like I'm used to with clicky Alps. And it actually feels more like a tactile switch as well.
There is a tactile white Alps variant (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCM_White_Damped) but that's complicated Alps. This keyboard looks relatively modern and I have a hard time believing they were still using complicated Alps for it. But I've never even heard of a tactile simplified white Alps switch...
So what is this? I guess I could open up a switch and have a look though with the keyboard being in such great condition I'm somewhat reluctant.
So I have a possibly loaded question, as I've never used an Alps type switch and am planning to build a board with them for work. I'm aware that Matias switches are not as good as the actual Alps switches, but what level of difference are we talking about? For reference I'll be using tactile switches and putting the Nexus sliders in them, and I'm trying to decide if I should just grab some Matias QCs and swap with those, or go for the more difficult/expensive option of tracking down a board with Orange or Salmon alps (which I'd also feel a bit bad for gutting as well as modding the housings).
Would Matias QC vs Salmon basically be like Cherry Brown vs Clear, or like Topre clone vs 55g Topre?
Huh, for some reason I was under the impression they cost a lot more, guess the few threads I scouted on mechmarket were just sellers asking for much more than normal (over $1 per orange for instance).
Would Matias QC vs Salmon basically be like Cherry Brown vs Clear, or like Topre clone vs 55g Topre?
This is salmon Alps, right? It's an M0115 with the serial # around 750,000.
Also: At os 2018, how heavy/stiff is the salmon Alps? If I find MX Black and MX Clear a tad too heavy for my fingers, will I be OK with salmon Alps?
Thanks.
The easiest keys to source are the doubleshot Alps sets.
my favorite mechanical keyboard is the one with the switchesThe easiest keys to source are the doubleshot Alps sets.
in other news, the best keycaps for your mx switches are the mx keycaps
seriously what does this even mean, tai-hao?
my favorite mechanical keyboard is the one with the switchesThe easiest keys to source are the doubleshot Alps sets.
in other news, the best keycaps for your mx switches are the mx keycaps
seriously what does this even mean, tai-hao?
my favorite mechanical keyboard is the one with the switchesThe easiest keys to source are the doubleshot Alps sets.
in other news, the best keycaps for your mx switches are the mx keycaps
seriously what does this even mean, tai-hao?
My favorite layout is the one with all the keys lining up in staggered manner.
The easiest keys to source are the doubleshot Alps sets.
in other news, the best keycaps for your mx switches are the mx keycaps
seriously what does this even mean, tai-hao?
Woo just got an M3501 going to clean/use the caps :) and maybe try to resell the cream dampeneds. Or keep em for some random project who knows.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/TWg0qES.jpg)
Also the salmons have a 70g peak tactile force and a 65g bottom out force which is about 10g heavier than the oranges. Cherry mx clears have a 65ish gram tactile bump and 95g bottom out force and blacks have an actuation of 60g and a bottom out force of 80g. Salmons should feel comparable to clears on tactility but significantly easier to bottom out.
So dumb question perhaps but are dampened and undampened Cream Alps different internally aside from the dampeners? From what I can tell it seems like the undampened version is considered better and that it isn't replicable simply by removing the dampeners so I assume they are completely different, but in that case why use the same nickname for both?
Different strokes for different folks. I can see your point.I always assumed the point in 'undampened creams' was to approach the feel of orange alps.
Undampened creams are my number one tactile choice so I can be picky in comparison.
Well a major difference is that the more common SKCL Cream and SKCM Cream damped are completely different actuation types - SKCL is linear and SKCM is tactile. The much rarer SKCM Cream also is a bit different from it's dampened counterparts, but if you remove the dampers they are pretty similar.
The much rarer SKCM Cream also is a bit different from it's dampened counterparts, but if you remove the dampers they are pretty similar.give me a hit of what you were smoking when you came to that conclusion
Different strokes for different folks. I can see your point.I always assumed the point in 'undampened creams' was to approach the feel of orange alps.
Undampened creams are my number one tactile choice so I can be picky in comparison.
Yep, your right.Different strokes for different folks. I can see your point.I always assumed the point in 'undampened creams' was to approach the feel of orange alps.
Undampened creams are my number one tactile choice so I can be picky in comparison.
Absolutely not, I think we’re talking about 2 different alps here. I keep saying NEXT undampened since NEXT Non ADB is the easiest way to find them. Besides the NEXT board, you can also find them in Canon typewriter, NEC-PC computer, or HP laptop which dated back as early as 1987.
I believe the ones you’re thinking about are from AEK ll, those are post 1990. They are complete ****, a few in this thread experimented with them before trying to recreate Oranges. But no matter how many times you polish, a turd is still a turd
Repainted my top piece with gloss black.
Tragicforce hhkb with skcm ambersShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/DPkS7wm.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/binMtEu.jpg)
Woo just got an M3501 going to clean/use the caps :) and maybe try to resell the cream dampeneds. Or keep em for some random project who knows.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/TWg0qES.jpg)
Also the salmons have a 70g peak tactile force and a 65g bottom out force which is about 10g heavier than the oranges. Cherry mx clears have a 65ish gram tactile bump and 95g bottom out force and blacks have an actuation of 60g and a bottom out force of 80g. Salmons should feel comparable to clears on tactility but significantly easier to bottom out.
I'd be interested in the PCB if you are going to toss it anyways.
Show Image(https://i.redd.it/lyia7kefcnx01.jpg)
Thought yall would like this.
How do brown alps feel compared to orange?
How do brown alps feel compared to orange?
much more tactile, like a mechanical topre. :thumb:
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/A7ecT7A.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/l1e3usD.png)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/A7ecT7A.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/l1e3usD.png)
Skcm blacks unfortunately. Creams only come in ansi enter board
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/A7ecT7A.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/l1e3usD.png)
Skcm blacks unfortunately. Creams only come in ansi enter board
Cool, thanks for the info!
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/A7ecT7A.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/l1e3usD.png)
Skcm blacks unfortunately. Creams only come in ansi enter board
Cool, thanks for the info!
The NeXT boards with the 1.75 ansi enter come with SKCM blacks too but at least those have pine tops and are surprisingly not-awful. Throwback to when the NeXT guy on eBay sent me 6 broken keyboards to harvest with SKCM creams.
Show Image(https://i.redd.it/lyia7kefcnx01.jpg)
Thought yall would like this.
Nice board! What switches you got in that beauty?
Show Image(https://i.redd.it/lyia7kefcnx01.jpg)
Thought yall would like this.
Nice board! What switches you got in that beauty?
Blues they feel amazing
Browns are unnecessarily tactile in my opinion. Oranges and NEXT Creams are both better choices.Theres only one switch that went over the edge for me, it was an ivory colored alps clone in a SIIG MiniTouch. The switches almost felt broken and they were NOS... I would probably love brown alps, but I have kind of moved away from tactile due to generally being unimpressed with the tactility compared to clicky. I might need to try a brown alps keyboard.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/KYqXPLn.jpg)
Browns are unnecessarily tactile in my opinion. Oranges and NEXT Creams are both better choices.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/KYqXPLn.jpg)
Browns are unnecessarily tactile in my opinion. Oranges and NEXT Creams are both better choices.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/KYqXPLn.jpg)
Hey what's the bottom board in this photo? I've never seen a layout like that with alps? is it custom?
What bout the keycaps? Alps blanks?
Does anyone know the exact weight (not estimate) of a single Alps switch?Which variety? :p I imagine it's different per switch type.
Does anyone know the exact weight (not estimate) of a single Alps switch?Which variety? :p I imagine it's different per switch type.
Hello guysEither Apple hairpin spring or Alps SKCM Orange, afaik.
just a quick question. Which switches does the apple A2S4000 use?
Thanks
Hello guysEither Apple hairpin spring or Alps SKCM Orange, afaik.
just a quick question. Which switches does the apple A2S4000 use?
Thanks
The older apple IIc's had hairpin spring switches, the later ones had skcm orange.
I saw a good offer on my local ebay but I don’t know which switches are in it :mad:Hello guysEither Apple hairpin spring or Alps SKCM Orange, afaik.
just a quick question. Which switches does the apple A2S4000 use?
Thanks
The older apple IIc's had hairpin spring switches, the later ones had skcm orange.
Some also had amber SKCM switches.
Some of you may remember the NOS Blue Alps keyboard I found a few years ago (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg2221455#msg2221455). Orihalcon tried hard to help me with the Soarer's converter but there was nothing but error codes. I messaged the owner of the only other documented K-430 on the internet and he said that he could only get it to work with a certain Compaq computer but once that died, he gave to a collector. Even though this is simply a unique Chicony 5160 variant with arrow keys, there is some charm to its yellowing and status as a 30-year-old NOS keyboard which made it worth the work.
I would love for everyone to check out the buildlog but here is a preview of the end product - The same pictures are in the Imgur album here (https://imgur.com/a/h4ICPmc).MoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/aDpdeWL.jpg)
Often regarded among the best keyboard switches ever made, blue Alps were manufactured in the late 1980s by Alps Electric. I started looking for blue Alps switches (about two years ago in the summer of 2016 before prices skyrocketed) and soon found this keyboard on a one-day eBay auction of which, I was the only bidder.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/EZVhjGg.jpg)
The only record of this mysterious Copam K-430 model on the internet was from a user GH user who got rid of it due to the non-standard protocol. With such little documentation, I wasn't 100 percent sure it actually had blue Alps but took a chance since it was NOS and still in original packaging.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/EGfDGmw.jpg)
It indeed contained Blue Alps! The keyboard felt great to type on but using my DIN-5 AT/XT Soarer's converter, it yielded nothing but error codes.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JjjVbK2.jpg)
After sitting in my closet for almost a year, I decided this yellowed dinosaur was worth teaching myself KiCad in order to design a PCB that supports press-fit TE Connectivity Holtite sockets. Other benefits include full reprogrammability, native USB compatibility and less stress on the delicate switch legs due to the heat that comes with soldering and de-soldering - should I decide to swap them outShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/jjtF7Ht.jpg)
Most modern keyboards follow the widely adopted IBM spacing standard of 0.75” or 19.05mm from center-to-center of each (1 unit) key. The difficult part was determining the spacing from the function keys and numpad area to the middle portion. Really wanted to get it right the first time.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FDo0dq1.jpg)
After bit of measuring, I was able to determine the additional spacing of ~9.5mm amounting to the equivalent separation of 1.5 units or 28.575mm.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Agb5tRg.jpg)
'Measuring' where the new lock LEDs should be located to line up with the lock light windows.
(Picture for illustrative purposes)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/gePEJtW.jpg)
The 8134-HC-8Px Holtite connector spec-sheet recommends a mounting hole diameter of 2.08mm ±0.05mm so I had a friend send a prototype PCB to test a few different drill sizes. I settled on 2.00mm, but in retrospect I should have chosen 2.05mm.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/XfKwfny.jpg)
Using KiCad's Footprint Editor, a footprint was created for each switch using retooled Alps specification sheets from Matias and widening the drill size. The footprints for diodes, resistors and LEDs were taken from the default KiCad library.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/7fh5kpL.jpg)
For the brain of this project, I selected the PJRC Teensy++ 2.0 as it utilizes the AT90USB1286 chip and has more EEPROM and I/O compared to ATmega32U4 in the Teensy 2.0. The extra pins will be able to accommodate a 5 x 21 matrix rather than something like a 9 x 10.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/DqcOlvn.jpg)
The first step in KiCad was creating the component schematic in Eeschema. Each switch, diode, and resistor is laid out and routed accordingly. Eeschema is also used for associating the individual component drawings with their corresponding PCB footprints. The resulting .net file will be imported into Pcbnew.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JEXkt7t.png)
Importing the .net file from Eeschema will create ratsnest lines that indicate the necessary path of each trace.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/SujZ6zb.jpg)
In KiCad, custom grid spacing of 19.05mm divided by 8 was used to place each switch and diode footprint. Before I started routing traces, a basic 2D .dxf file was drawn up in AutoCAD then superimposed to double check my switch spacing.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/kTEvMwm.png)
Provisions were also made so the USB cable would be secured, and Bluetooth could be added in the future. Later, I came across very similar keyboards presumably manufactured by the same Chicony OEM, so additional support was added to accommodate their slightly different bottom rows.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/QzvRSZI.png)
Very happy with how my manually routed traces came out as the automatic tool was a tad messy. The red traces correspond with the top layer and the green traces correspond with the back layer.
I also knew the Teensy would be removed and reinstalled periodically during testing, so its footprint was modified to use smaller Holtite sockets.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/slkOunc.jpg)
PCBs arrived, the yellow solder mask was chosen since it seemed more fitting for this retrofit project than something like blue or red.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/W3PftJT.jpg)
All 89 SMD 1n4148 diodes soldered in and tested with a multimeter to ensure they are all orientated correctly.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Hfq5ITz.jpg)
Installation of smaller TE Holtite sockets to make the Teensy++ 2.0 hotswappable.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/EpdlD0l.jpg)
LED SIP sockets soldered in for the lock lights. I chose these since the LED height inside the case can be adjusted by just clipping the legs.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/72sLyNt.jpg)
Thankfully there were only three 805 SMD resistors to solder in, I didn’t realize they were so small. Should have chosen a lower resistance than 1k Ohm because the stock LEDs were too dim.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/3lxrchw.jpg)
I designed the PCB with the possibly of a detachable cable in mind, but it would have required hacking up the case. It was soldered in anyway and later on in the build, this ended up working out.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/ugAqgsI.jpg)
Pressing in the TE holtite sockets using a soldering iron. I found that using a conical, B-shape tip that is set to around 275º C in short periods can help any prevent pads from lifting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/d6fTYue.jpg)
Beginning the socket installation with the number pad area, you can see a few lifted pads. This happened less frequently as time went on.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/YHzfIXl.jpg)
The heat applied from the soldering iron has discolored the area around the solder pads. They fit very snug and illustrates the main reason why a 2.05mm drill size would have been better choice.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Ubr0FQj.jpg)
In preparation to desolder the switches, all keycaps were removed.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/OlVw0Ej.jpg)
Adding fresh 63-37 rosin core solder to loosen up what had been sitting for nearly 30 years.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/qwd3QPl.jpg)
The Japanse-made Engineer solder-sucker is very strong and it's great that the silicon tip can touch the iron directly for better suction.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/gDj0Gaj.jpg)
Desoldering the LEDsShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/5fUHZT9.jpg)
she goneShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/L9LQQ6t.jpg)
All the switch legs have been desoldered so that the original PCB can simply be peeled back and separated.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JpNkjYo.jpg)
GREAT SUCCESS!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/lal6e0t.jpg)
Peeling the PCB back in that manor allows the switches to removed from the rear so the clips aren't damaged.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/3RLRsMU.jpg)
Test fit. The original PCB had only one side etched with small pieces of wire used to jump traces. Highlighted are the screw holes I did not notice during the design phase and needed to be drilled out to help secure the plate to the PCB.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pzAVhBY.jpg)
The two screw holes were done with a hand drill. Luckily there were no traces running through those locations.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Q0XLYgj.jpg)
This took forever.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/KAffJOH.jpg)
At this point, everything was assembled with the plate screwed in and socket installation finished. The lifted traces were easily fixed by bridging the columns with some wire.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/OKf4fl5.png)
Building the TMK firmware. In these two pictures we are defining the rows, columns, and their corresponding I/O pins on the Teensy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/kSQKgeJ.png)
When a switch is pressed, this diode matrix will tell the controller of the input location using coordinates of the two electrical signals.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0QNnQJR.png)
Defining the keymap and function layers using the designated TMK keycodes. For me, the ability to remap each key is the biggest benefit of this retrofit. The ACTION_LAYER_TAP_KEY allows the down arrow key to act normally when tapped, but accesses the function layer when held.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/o8xi9NC.png)
Writing the code for the lock LEDs was the most frustrating part of this entire process. Both the switch matrix and keymap worked flawlessly after flashing the first .hex file though it took many more tries before the LEDs behaved as desired. Commented out at the bottom is the function written to keep the lock LEDs from turning on while the computer is in sleep mode.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9ZmfDlO.jpg)
It’s alive! Each component now sits in its rightful place and functions as it should. I used it as pictured for a few days and boxed it up. Using a generic black USB cable while I had the hefty original coiled cable sitting around started to bother me.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bzwg6Sl.jpg)
After a few months, I decided to finish this project up for good. The internal connector was cut off and each wire was soldered to the corresponding wire of the USB cable then heatshrinked.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/KxmpFeW.jpg)
This project box with a panel mount 5-pin AT/XT socket allows the use of the original connector and passively changes the interface, not the protocol. It usually sits out of sight behind my computer.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/A0SgVMr.jpg)
There is a plastic trim piece that covered the large hole where original cable connector had to fit through the case. Its clip broke when I initially took it apart but the mini-USB just happens to keep the piece perfectly in place.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/XDEHejs.jpg)
In order to flash the .hex file, there is a reset button on the Teensy that puts it into bootloader mode. What didn't occur to me, was that once the top is screwed on, the button would no longer be accessible. I wired this switch (that was originally intended for Bluetooth) to the reset pin on the Teensy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/5ElkA6y.jpg)
The goal was always to modify this keyboard as little as possible. A discreet hole was made under one of the case feet to access the external reset switch for flashing new keymaps.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/ATJNWP4.jpg)
The switch feel of Blue Alps can truly be appreciated now that the keyboard is operational. Though, the inability to remap backspace to where the backslash sits on a normal ANSI board is a bummer and I'm not yet sure if I prefer them to SKCM Amber. Regardless, it was very rewarding to see this project through and save a rather unique board which others would have certainly harvested the switches from then discarded. Big thanks to the community members that checked my PCB schematic and I hope you enjoyed the read!
Hey guys, New to this forum, and just discovered alp switches. While cleaning my AEK i noticed that 1 switch was making clicky sounds instead of the normal orange alp sounds. I came to the conclusion that the slider is the problem. I tried switching the tactile leaf, housing, and spring, but once i changed the slider everything came back to normal.
I noticed a small tiny micro scratch on the slider. Could it be that this is the problem? I haven't lubed my switches yet but i plan to and i ordered some dry lube on amazon. Is there a fix to this? so far i can't find any solution and when turning over the slider to its flat side facing the switch plate, the sound is gone but i heard that's not the orientation its suppose to be and i notice that it feels more heavier and uneven compared to how its suppose to be oriented. Any help is appreciated! Thanks
Here is the picture album of the slider itself - https://imgur.com/a/tNnT0uo
If anybody has a microscope and a Focus FK-xxxx, I would send you $5 for a pic of the logo on the pcb. My pic is too low res to restore and vectorize and I threw out the pcb ages ago.Here's a picture from an FK-8000 in 5184p. No payment is needed :) . But please post a picture of the logo once you've vectorised it, someone might find it useful at some point :) .
https://i.imgur.com/jeRaJqa.jpg
Noice, thanks! :)
My NIB Minitouch and KB-5181 together looking like father and son :))Mmmmm Monterey Blues are great..Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/rZY4CS1.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GXDff6N.jpg)
Also put most of the doubleshots from the KB-5181 on the Minitouch. Feels 10x better being that my only complaint with this board was the keycaps. The KB-5181 has monterey blues and the Minitouch has ivory whites (everyone hates them but I ****ing love them, but not as much as the montereys).
Picked up my first blue alps board today on eBay. Can’t wait to get my fingers on it. :)Noice! Which model did you get? :)
Picked up my first blue alps board today on eBay. Can’t wait to get my fingers on it. :)Noice! Which model did you get? :)
How come hardly here is interested in Alps switches anymore?
How come hardly here is interested in Alps switches anymore?
There are folks who appreciate Alps -- it's just that people haven't ventured enough to post on here.
Alps are still quite popular.
Some setups I've done before or have now.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UFx52om.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/ucfOuJk.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JbAzifW.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0K5GfXt.jpg)
Is that first board a Revo One? That thing is gorgeous.
How come hardly here is interested in Alps switches anymore?
There are folks who appreciate Alps -- it's just that people haven't ventured enough to post on here.
Alps are still quite popular.
Some setups I've done before or have now.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UFx52om.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/ucfOuJk.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JbAzifW.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0K5GfXt.jpg)
Here's my SMK Clueboard ;D
Built with monterey blues and a few mx mount smk white's for artisans.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/h00cJ4K.jpg)
I have always wanted to try Alps but layout options have prohibited me from it.
I had NO IDEA that you could do a split right shift. Is split right shift and split BS possible? If so, how hard would it be to find the keycaps?
Here's my SMK Clueboard ;D
Built with monterey blues and a few mx mount smk white's for artisans.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/h00cJ4K.jpg)
This is so great. Always loved the OG orange one. Really makes me want to convert my Clueboard over to Alps.
Here's my SMK Clueboard ;D
Built with monterey blues and a few mx mount smk white's for artisans.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/h00cJ4K.jpg)
This is so great. Always loved the OG orange one. Really makes me want to convert my Clueboard over to Alps.
Unfortunately, you can’t use SKCM/SKCL Alps with the aluminum clueboards as they are technically only mx compatible. The reason I was able to use SMK switches is because they utilize the same plate cutout as mx switches. Additionally, DCS keycaps use mx stabilizers which allowed me to use cherry PCB mount stabs which is what the board natively supports. As far as I know, it isn’t possible to get any other stabilizers to work with this board.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A lot of us are lurkers or just use old Alps boards with no modifications, etc (I fall into both categories).Glad to hear someone here isn't hacking up or (unsustainably) harvesting vintage keyboards.
The PCB does support alps, but only SKCM/SKCL. The pcb doesn’t support SMK, I bent the pins into the holes on the PCBHere's my SMK Clueboard ;D
Built with monterey blues and a few mx mount smk white's for artisans.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/h00cJ4K.jpg)
This is so great. Always loved the OG orange one. Really makes me want to convert my Clueboard over to Alps.
Unfortunately, you can’t use SKCM/SKCL Alps with the aluminum clueboards as they are technically only mx compatible. The reason I was able to use SMK switches is because they utilize the same plate cutout as mx switches. Additionally, DCS keycaps use mx stabilizers which allowed me to use cherry PCB mount stabs which is what the board natively supports. As far as I know, it isn’t possible to get any other stabilizers to work with this board.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OK that's right. I think the PCB supports Alps, but the plate doesn't, correct?
A lot of us are lurkers or just use old Alps boards with no modifications, etc (I fall into both categories).Glad to hear someone here isn't hacking up or (unsustainably) harvesting vintage keyboards.
A lot of us are lurkers or just use old Alps boards with no modifications, etc (I fall into both categories).Glad to hear someone here isn't hacking up or (unsustainably) harvesting vintage keyboards.
Yeah, I just can't bring myself to disassemble a vintage Alps keyboard. It feels a bit wrong.
A lot of us are lurkers or just use old Alps boards with no modifications, etc (I fall into both categories).Glad to hear someone here isn't hacking up or (unsustainably) harvesting vintage keyboards.
Yeah, I just can't bring myself to disassemble a vintage Alps keyboard. It feels a bit wrong.
Thank you!
nice solid boards should be respected for their purposeful beauty
nice solid boards should be respected for their purposeful beauty
I am not averse to scavenging or altering common boards like Apples and Dells.
I have never seen any AEK or Dell AT101W in active service in my life. (Except of course, the refurbished ones I've sold/given away to people)
Got a big one, boys. First time I've had a seller actually work with me with some good counter-offers. Glad some people still know how to make deals.
Sweet, smooth greens. I think it's a looker:
(Attachment Link)
Will update when it gets here.
Okay, so the KB-5152 has green alps. They are pretty clean. Several of them are buttery smooth. Some are about an 8/10. But here's the problem... I can't get it to work. It has an AT-XT switch on the back. In AT mode over PS2 (DIN-mini DIN adapter that I know works) nothing happens. The Cursor Pad light comes on at startup of the computer, but nothing else happens. I can't toggle numlock or caps or anything.
If I put it in XT mode over the same adapter on startup, I can toggle numlock and capslock, but of course it doesn't work, b/c it's in XT mode.
Any ideas? Do you think running it in XT mode with soarer's converter would work?
It's a really fun board in good condition. Just hate that I can't get it to work.
Okay, so the KB-5152 has green alps. They are pretty clean. Several of them are buttery smooth. Some are about an 8/10. But here's the problem... I can't get it to work. It has an AT-XT switch on the back. In AT mode over PS2 (DIN-mini DIN adapter that I know works) nothing happens. The Cursor Pad light comes on at startup of the computer, but nothing else happens. I can't toggle numlock or caps or anything.
If I put it in XT mode over the same adapter on startup, I can toggle numlock and capslock, but of course it doesn't work, b/c it's in XT mode.
Any ideas? Do you think running it in XT mode with soarer's converter would work?
It's a really fun board in good condition. Just hate that I can't get it to work.
Not sure if this helps but the main reason I sold my White Label Z-150 was because even though it was an AT type protocol, it would only work with a cheap Monoprice mouse-keyboard combo PS/2 converter. It wouldn't work with my Soarer's or Hasu's TMK PS/2 converter, even with the pullup resistors and remapping keys is a necessity for me.
It might be possible there is something like that going on. At least you have the switch on there so it can work in AT/XT mode with Soarer's converter (more options), though I prefer flashing TMK.
my white-label Z-150 didn't work with a Soarer's either, but it did work directly over PS/2 - however, he's already tried that Oo .Okay, so the KB-5152 has green alps. They are pretty clean. Several of them are buttery smooth. Some are about an 8/10. But here's the problem... I can't get it to work. It has an AT-XT switch on the back. In AT mode over PS2 (DIN-mini DIN adapter that I know works) nothing happens. The Cursor Pad light comes on at startup of the computer, but nothing else happens. I can't toggle numlock or caps or anything.
If I put it in XT mode over the same adapter on startup, I can toggle numlock and capslock, but of course it doesn't work, b/c it's in XT mode.
Any ideas? Do you think running it in XT mode with soarer's converter would work?
It's a really fun board in good condition. Just hate that I can't get it to work.
Not sure if this helps but the main reason I sold my White Label Z-150 was because even though it was an AT type protocol, it would only work with a cheap Monoprice mouse-keyboard combo PS/2 converter. It wouldn't work with my Soarer's or Hasu's TMK PS/2 converter, even with the pullup resistors and remapping keys is a necessity for me.
It might be possible there is something like that going on. At least you have the switch on there so it can work in AT/XT mode with Soarer's converter (more options), though I prefer flashing TMK.
my white-label Z-150 didn't work with a Soarer's either, but it did work directly over PS/2 - however, he's already tried that Oo .Okay, so the KB-5152 has green alps. They are pretty clean. Several of them are buttery smooth. Some are about an 8/10. But here's the problem... I can't get it to work. It has an AT-XT switch on the back. In AT mode over PS2 (DIN-mini DIN adapter that I know works) nothing happens. The Cursor Pad light comes on at startup of the computer, but nothing else happens. I can't toggle numlock or caps or anything.
If I put it in XT mode over the same adapter on startup, I can toggle numlock and capslock, but of course it doesn't work, b/c it's in XT mode.
Any ideas? Do you think running it in XT mode with soarer's converter would work?
It's a really fun board in good condition. Just hate that I can't get it to work.
Not sure if this helps but the main reason I sold my White Label Z-150 was because even though it was an AT type protocol, it would only work with a cheap Monoprice mouse-keyboard combo PS/2 converter. It wouldn't work with my Soarer's or Hasu's TMK PS/2 converter, even with the pullup resistors and remapping keys is a necessity for me.
It might be possible there is something like that going on. At least you have the switch on there so it can work in AT/XT mode with Soarer's converter (more options), though I prefer flashing TMK.
I have tons of Buckling Spring and some Cherry MX experience, but I have never felt an Alps switch.
What would you guys say is the best and cheapest way to give them a try?
I have tons of Buckling Spring and some Cherry MX experience, but I have never felt an Alps switch.
What would you guys say is the best and cheapest way to give them a try?
Your cheapest option is going to be a Dell AT101W (probably black alps) or an AEKII (probably dampened cream alps).
I'm not a fan of the dampened cream, personally. The important thing is to get a keyboard that looks very clean and unused since dirty Alps switches tend to feel pretty bad. I bought a new in box AT101W as my first Alps board.
There are also a lot of boards out there for just $10 to $20 more than the ones I listed above that have white alps switches, which are really nice as well.
alps come in many varieties, what's your current favorite type of switch? clicky, tactile, heavy, light, noisy, quiet? and we can probably point you in a good direction.
What would you guys say is the best and cheapest way to give them a try?I could throw together an Alps64 or Dell AT101W for you. You can get SKBM White/Grey, SKBM Black, SKCL Yellow, used SKCM Black, and any Matias or Tai-Hao in-production switch.
Got a big one, boys. First time I've had a seller actually work with me with some good counter-offers. Glad some people still know how to make deals.
Sweet, smooth greens. I think it's a looker:
(Attachment Link)
Will update when it gets here.
Got a big one, boys. First time I've had a seller actually work with me with some good counter-offers. Glad some people still know how to make deals.
Sweet, smooth greens. I think it's a looker:
(Attachment Link)
Will update when it gets here.
Nice! "Keyboard" by "Professional Manufacturer of Keyboard" Lol!
Almost sounds like some sort of scam :p
I have tons of Buckling Spring and some Cherry MX experience, but I have never felt an Alps switch.Like Pixel said, get an AT101 or AEKII. They're cheap and plentiful.
What would you guys say is the best and cheapest way to give them a try?
Got a big one, boys. First time I've had a seller actually work with me with some good counter-offers. Glad some people still know how to make deals.
Sweet, smooth greens. I think it's a looker:
(Attachment Link)
Will update when it gets here.
Got my Northgate board today! First one. It's the OmniMac Ultra, the "Mac" version of the normal OmniKey Ultra. It's hard to find much about this keyboard
(Attachment Link)
More photos here: https://imgur.com/gallery/8VtN3VU
The GREAT news is that I found how to get it to work with my PC. I stumbled across a 1992 forum post from verycomputer.com where someone mentioned that the DIP switches need to have 1 and 3 down, and 2 up. On the normal OmniKey this would be ATT 6300 configuration, but it seems to magically work with my Hasu ADB to USB converter. The one and only thing that doesn't work in this config is the NumLock indicator. Not that you would ever use a NumLock on a fullsize+ keyboard.
It's in very clean condition (came in the original box and styrofoam). Archetypal white Alps in pretty much mint condition. The keycaps are thin, doubleshot ABS and are evenly yellowed. Very impressed with the build and heft of the Northgate.
The only thing I don't like about it is the space bar. Typical rattle and short travel from the foam padding underneath. I might work on it sometime.
Also, the DIP configuration and converter didn't seem to work on my Macbook Pro. I've had issues with other keyboards on it as well, it's finicky. No biggie for me, b/c I hardly ever use my macbook, but certainly something to mention in case someone was looking to use this on a mac.
Got my Northgate board today! First one. It's the OmniMac Ultra, the "Mac" version of the normal OmniKey Ultra. It's hard to find much about this keyboard
(Attachment Link)
More photos here: https://imgur.com/gallery/8VtN3VU
The GREAT news is that I found how to get it to work with my PC. I stumbled across a 1992 forum post from verycomputer.com where someone mentioned that the DIP switches need to have 1 and 3 down, and 2 up. On the normal OmniKey this would be ATT 6300 configuration, but it seems to magically work with my Hasu ADB to USB converter. The one and only thing that doesn't work in this config is the NumLock indicator. Not that you would ever use a NumLock on a fullsize+ keyboard.
It's in very clean condition (came in the original box and styrofoam). Archetypal white Alps in pretty much mint condition. The keycaps are thin, doubleshot ABS and are evenly yellowed. Very impressed with the build and heft of the Northgate.
The only thing I don't like about it is the space bar. Typical rattle and short travel from the foam padding underneath. I might work on it sometime.
Also, the DIP configuration and converter didn't seem to work on my Macbook Pro. I've had issues with other keyboards on it as well, it's finicky. No biggie for me, b/c I hardly ever use my macbook, but certainly something to mention in case someone was looking to use this on a mac.
question for all.... has anyone put lighter springs in alps dampened cream/white or tactile switches? what's the breaking point that spring is too light to make switch work correctly? i've read about this on the MX side, very light springs in a more tactile switch (like say clear or green MX) the switch would not work correctly (tactile too stiff for spring). any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Just paid an exorbitant amount of money, but I now have an SKCL Brown keyboard on the way. Hopefully the switches are in decent shape, at least with SKCL switches you don't have to worry about altering the tactile leaf when cleaning.
I am very familiar with SKCM (Tactile) Brown Alps, the board I bought actually contains SKCL (Linear) Brown Alps! Much rarer. I have lots of custom Alps projects to come in the next few months.Just paid an exorbitant amount of money, but I now have an SKCL Brown keyboard on the way. Hopefully the switches are in decent shape, at least with SKCL switches you don't have to worry about altering the tactile leaf when cleaning.
Congrats. I got to try out a board with brown alps and I must say they are my favorite alps switches and the closest of any switch to the feel of topre. I currently have a v80 with linear modded cream dampened alps that a friend built for me. It's awesome.
Did you get the Epson or the Packard Bell? :)I am very familiar with SKCM (Tactile) Brown Alps, the board I bought actually contains SKCL (Linear) Brown Alps! Much rarer. I have lots of custom Alps projects to come in the next few months.Just paid an exorbitant amount of money, but I now have an SKCL Brown keyboard on the way. Hopefully the switches are in decent shape, at least with SKCL switches you don't have to worry about altering the tactile leaf when cleaning.
Congrats. I got to try out a board with brown alps and I must say they are my favorite alps switches and the closest of any switch to the feel of topre. I currently have a v80 with linear modded cream dampened alps that a friend built for me. It's awesome.
The Epson, as it was a bit less yellowed. I will most likely be desoldering the switches and doing a big cleaning job. I still have four more PCBs left I designed for my NOS Blue Alps Copam keyboard that should fit the layout. If any switches go back in the chassis, it will be with one of those PCBs (yay USB and NKRO).Did you get the Epson or the Packard Bell? :)I am very familiar with SKCM (Tactile) Brown Alps, the board I bought actually contains SKCL (Linear) Brown Alps! Much rarer. I have lots of custom Alps projects to come in the next few months.Just paid an exorbitant amount of money, but I now have an SKCL Brown keyboard on the way. Hopefully the switches are in decent shape, at least with SKCL switches you don't have to worry about altering the tactile leaf when cleaning.
Congrats. I got to try out a board with brown alps and I must say they are my favorite alps switches and the closest of any switch to the feel of topre. I currently have a v80 with linear modded cream dampened alps that a friend built for me. It's awesome.
question for all.... has anyone put lighter springs in alps dampened cream/white or tactile switches? what's the breaking point that spring is too light to make switch work correctly? i've read about this on the MX side, very light springs in a more tactile switch (like say clear or green MX) the switch would not work correctly (tactile too stiff for spring). any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Can't say about cream/whites, but I've tried 40g sprit springs in SKCM brown switches with black switchplate and they worked fine.
question for all.... has anyone put lighter springs in alps dampened cream/white or tactile switches? what's the breaking point that spring is too light to make switch work correctly? i've read about this on the MX side, very light springs in a more tactile switch (like say clear or green MX) the switch would not work correctly (tactile too stiff for spring). any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Can't say about cream/whites, but I've tried 40g sprit springs in SKCM brown switches with black switchplate and they worked fine.
Picked up my first Alps board and I am blown away by the feel and sound of it! White Alps in a Focus FK-2001.Congrats, a nice find! :)
The spacebar is sticky though. I've read that I get two screw drivers, place it under each end of the spacebar and pull straight up?
Picked up my first Alps board and I am blown away by the feel and sound of it! White Alps in a Focus FK-2001.Congrats, a nice find! :)
The spacebar is sticky though. I've read that I get two screw drivers, place it under each end of the spacebar and pull straight up?
I'd be careful tbh. The Alps stem isn't too strong - it's just a little bar, after all. I'd recommend getting a ring puller ($1 shipped from China), and pulling it off from the middle of the switch.
Wire pullers are better for single keys IMO, but they don't fit around big keys, so it pays to have one of each.
Cheers mate :) .Picked up my first Alps board and I am blown away by the feel and sound of it! White Alps in a Focus FK-2001.Congrats, a nice find! :)
The spacebar is sticky though. I've read that I get two screw drivers, place it under each end of the spacebar and pull straight up?
I'd be careful tbh. The Alps stem isn't too strong - it's just a little bar, after all. I'd recommend getting a ring puller ($1 shipped from China), and pulling it off from the middle of the switch.
Wire pullers are better for single keys IMO, but they don't fit around big keys, so it pays to have one of each.
Luckily I have a ring puller! So a ring puller, in the middle of the spacebar and pull straight up?
Btw, I love your Youtube Channel. Big Fan :))
One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance. :(
One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance. :(
I have a bunch of extra switchplates if you need any.
It shouldn't matter, I think they are interchangeable.
One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance. :(
I have a bunch of extra switchplates if you need any.
That would be sweet! Which do I need? The long or short switchplate?
It shouldn't matter, I think they are interchangeable.
One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance. :(
I have a bunch of extra switchplates if you need any.
That would be sweet! Which do I need? The long or short switchplate?
Although since you live in Singapore it may be cheaper to buy some NOS SKCL Yellows from TaoBao and use the switchplates from them instead.
It shouldn't matter, I think they are interchangeable.
One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance. :(
All the switchplates I have are the "newer" shorter ones.
I have a bunch of extra switchplates if you need any.
That would be sweet! Which do I need? The long or short switchplate?
Although since you live in Singapore it may be cheaper to buy some NOS SKCL Yellows from TaoBao and use the switchplates from them instead.
Likely interchangeable but I would like to get the most authentic feel and the difference in switchplates contribute to that ;)
I wouldn't mind shipping switchplates from you though, it won't cost much.
Example: I've used the same dye (02 Golden Glow) for the modifiers on the top and the middle keyboard in the picture below. About 45 minutes for the darker, almost orange, color and about 20 minutes (or 30… don't quite remember) for the mustard yellow. (In the top keyboard I also used the Tangerine dye for enter, backspace and tab keys. Just thought I'd mention that..)[attachimg=1]
can someone help me identify the layout/language of these 60% AEKs? (cross post to an old thread)Example: I've used the same dye (02 Golden Glow) for the modifiers on the top and the middle keyboard in the picture below. About 45 minutes for the darker, almost orange, color and about 20 minutes (or 30… don't quite remember) for the mustard yellow. (In the top keyboard I also used the Tangerine dye for enter, backspace and tab keys. Just thought I'd mention that..)(Attachment Link)
I'm currently working on an Alps 1800 build. Thinking about either orange alps or blue alps. Both seem like a good idea, so I'm having a hard time choosing.Personally I'd go for Orange. They're cheaper, easier to get, and actually quite pleasant in typefeel (arguably the best). Maybe you could get an SKCM blue escape key?
Hopefully this project will be done relatively soon.
I'm currently working on an Alps 1800 build. Thinking about either orange alps or blue alps. Both seem like a good idea, so I'm having a hard time choosing.Personally I'd go for Orange. They're cheaper, easier to get, and actually quite pleasant in typefeel (arguably the best). Maybe you could get an SKCM blue escape key?
Hopefully this project will be done relatively soon.
https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=12828
https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=12392
thanks to HaaTa
can someone help me identify the layout/language of these 60% AEKs? (cross post to an old thread)Example: I've used the same dye (02 Golden Glow) for the modifiers on the top and the middle keyboard in the picture below. About 45 minutes for the darker, almost orange, color and about 20 minutes (or 30… don't quite remember) for the mustard yellow. (In the top keyboard I also used the Tangerine dye for enter, backspace and tab keys. Just thought I'd mention that..)(Attachment Link)
Does anyone have one of the rare boards with the Alps buckling-spring switches (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SM-101)?I reviewed an RM Nimbus-branded SM-101 with them in, ages ago. They are pretty interesting switches. IMO they don't feel quite as good as IBM's version, but they sound better.Show Image(https://deskthority.net/w/images/2/29/Alps_buckling_spring_--_infobox.jpg)
I've never seen one, other in than photo at Deskthority... What do you suppose they were like?
Does anyone have one of the rare boards with the Alps buckling-spring switches (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SM-101)?Show Image(https://deskthority.net/w/images/2/29/Alps_buckling_spring_--_infobox.jpg)
I've never seen one, other in than photo at Deskthority... What do you suppose they were like?
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/rbY8wfR.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MqTAz4l.jpg)
Lucky number 8 :)
Case is what it says there, AEK64. Csps are AEK II JapaneseShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/rbY8wfR.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MqTAz4l.jpg)
Lucky number 8 :)
This is gorgeous. What case is that and what keyboards have alps caps like that? Some Japanese AEK? So rad.
I haven't tried an alps keyboard, but would love to get one! People say that the clicks in the switches make Cherry MX blue feel like a joke. Problem is, at the thrift store i can only find membrane keyboards...
One question: how do i know it's alps?
Matias is the only Alps switch/board manufacturer in the world now.
Hi
I was wondering, does the SKCM top housing (no LED hole) has effect on linear alps?
or is it better to use SKCL top housing (with LED hole) instead?
Thanks ;)
As much as I like the feel of decent white Alps, I wish that a follow-on manufacturer would go for MX keycap compatibility.
Hi
I was wondering, does the SKCM top housing (no LED hole) has effect on linear alps?
or is it better to use SKCL top housing (with LED hole) instead?
Thanks ;)
only SKCL had option for LED as that spot was used for the click/tactile leaf in SKCMs
don't know if the led hole would have any effect on sound.
you'd probably only notice a difference between bamboo or pine tops.
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCL/SKCM_series#Slits
Plus, over the years and making things cheaper, you can usually find one or both variants of the same switch.
Hi, so I'm working on my own plate for a hand-wire build, because I really want a compact 60% Alps board with arrow keys and split spacebars. Easy, right?
Can any of you guys with plate-cutting-and-designing experience come have a look at my plate file here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=99819.new#new)? This is all very new to me.
I had to learn CAD for this dream Alps endgame build, and I'm not giving up now :)
@Wojciech - Very nice, looks great!
@tron - Mmmm, green. What are those narrow switches at the top? (cluster of 6 on top left, cluster of 7 on too right). Don't think i've seen those before.
Linear Black Alps build, similar to my last one but with black case and acrylic plate.
I'll be using FR-4 plates from now on though because acrylic is too fragile (this plate already cracked in one spot).
Also I ran out of Black Alps so I'm going to use Alps Clones.Show Image(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/CoQAAOSwxupcsmQm/s-l1600.jpg)Show Image(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/WY0AAOSw1AZcsmRD/s-l1600.jpg)
I'm currently working on an Alps 1800 build. Thinking about either orange alps or blue alps. Both seem like a good idea, so I'm having a hard time choosing.
Hopefully this project will be done relatively soon.
Tai-Hao knows I like Alps, so they gave me some free Alps blanks!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Mn37W9.jpg)
I haven't tried an alps keyboard, but would love to get one! People say that the clicks in the switches make Cherry MX blue feel like a joke. Problem is, at the thrift store i can only find membrane keyboards...
One question: how do i know it's alps?
oof, i've heard nothing but bad things. how do they feel?
type the keyboards name and put the word "deskthority" or "geekhack" behind it, if it has alps generally itll have a post somewhere between the two.
oof, i've heard nothing but bad things. how do they feel?
type the keyboards name and put the word "deskthority" or "geekhack" behind it, if it has alps generally itll have a post somewhere between the two.
APC blues actually don't feel that bad. Not very clicky, but lightweight and decently tactile.
If you want ultra tactile and clicky, AK-CN2 is a better modern clone for that.
@Wojciech - WOW, that's beautiful. table router/cnc?
It has been at least a couple of years since I found an excellent keyboard for a cheap price in the wild, but today I got an absolutely pristine AEK2 in a salvage shop for $3.99
This one is utterly immaculate and not yellowed at all whatsoever, a later model with dampened whites instead of creams.
It is exquisite to type on, but I had forgotten how absolutely infuriating it is to have the stupid Apple/Windows/Command keys on either side of the space bar rather than the Alts. I have mapped many favorite short cuts to Cntrl+Alt+something and having Alt in the wrong place is making me crazy.
I know that I could jump through hoops and re-map the keys, but even then then the Alts ("option") are 1.25u while the Apples ("command") are 1.5u so they won't even swap! Aarrrgghh!
@swedishpiehole - have you tried the matias quiet click? they are dampened simplified alps. switches would be new, so no worries there on condition of switch. and reasonably priced compared to most MX.
white/cream dampened are a little heavier than your preference as well. (aprox. 70g if i remember right) this can be solved with lighter springs. either harvested from lighter alps switches or sprit alps springs (aftermarket, you pick the weight)
also, don't just soak them. use soap, water, toothbrush, qtips, etc... and scrub the crap out of them. be delicate with the rubber bumpers as these may have started to degrade over time.
dampened is about the only option you have for active "quieting" (either vintage alps or matias).
if you want something more tactile without being louder & clicky, check out the switches form the apple adjustable keyboard (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Apple_Adjustable_Keyboard) (Alps SKFS). these are more tactile, usually liberally lubed from factory, so pretty quiet compared to the IIgs keyboard i have (Apple Desktop Bus Keyboard (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Apple_Desktop_Bus_Keyboard))
I could clean the sh*t out of them, but honestly it's just sooooo much work on top of all the desoldering and soldering I will need to do....then spend the money on a NOS (new old stock) board, or get matias, or some other NEW clone.
@swedishpiehole - sorry, forgot you mentioned the alps64I'm sure that is great advice, but I'm too cheap to invest in NOS and for some reason I feel compelled to experience the original Alps feel I've read so much about so I'm not excited by the idea of Matias switches. So I just bought a vintage Apple M0115 with Salmon Alps on eBay for a somewhat reasonable price ($50 + shipping). I'm prepared to clean the crap out of them and hope to be able to finally understand what the Alps appeal is all about. The board I bought has French layout, so I can clean up the keycaps and probably get my money back by selling them.QuoteI could clean the sh*t out of them, but honestly it's just sooooo much work on top of all the desoldering and soldering I will need to do....then spend the money on a NOS (new old stock) board, or get matias, or some other NEW clone.
I'm prepared to clean the crap out of them
OK, noted! I'll test them first of course. Based on my recent experience with damped whites on an AEK that were scratchy and awful I just assumed any Alps on a 30+ year old board would be dirty.
I'm prepared to clean the crap out of them
Do not start down that trail until you have used them for a while. Do not assume that they are bad because they are old, dirty, or yellow.
It has been at least a couple of years since I found an excellent keyboard for a cheap price in the wild, but today I got an absolutely pristine AEK2 in a salvage shop for $3.99
This one is utterly immaculate and not yellowed at all whatsoever, a later model with dampened whites instead of creams.
It is exquisite to type on, but I had forgotten how absolutely infuriating it is to have the stupid Apple/Windows/Command keys on either side of the space bar rather than the Alts. I have mapped many favorite short cuts to Cntrl+Alt+something and having Alt in the wrong place is making me crazy.
I know that I could jump through hoops and re-map the keys, but even then then the Alts ("option") are 1.25u while the Apples ("command") are 1.5u so they won't even swap! Aarrrgghh!
...and at the same time, don't assume all Alps switches suck if you do get a crap one and find that cleaning and lubing doesn't help ;p .OK, noted! I'll test them first of course. Based on my recent experience with damped whites on an AEK that were scratchy and awful I just assumed any Alps on a 30+ year old board would be dirty.
I'm prepared to clean the crap out of them
Do not start down that trail until you have used them for a while. Do not assume that they are bad because they are old, dirty, or yellow.
UGH I'M SO PISSED! After carefully checking all the info at Deskthority about the AEK II and trawling eBay for one that didn't have the "S" in the square on the bottom right of the label, I thought I struck gold on a French Canadian version. The label didn't have the S symbol, so I thought for sure it would have salmons and I bought it. But I forgot to check where it was made, which turns out is Ireland. So it has cream damped. Merde, alors!
On the bright side, unlike the previous AEK II I bought that had white slit-less Alps that felt like utter **** even after cleaning, this one has cream damped with the slit and I have to say, they actually feel quite nice. I have never tried any other Alps switches other than these two, so I don't know how they compare to salmons or oranges or whatever.
Now I need to decide if I will harvest these cream damped for my Alps64 build or whether to resell this AEK II and keep looking for one with salmons or oranges. And if I do decide to harvest these, should I clean them?
P.S. @chyros, I've watched all of your Alps videos and it's your fault I've become obsessed with obtaining Alps nirvana.
i used to hate dampened cream, but my tastes have evolved over time. Something about using Zilents and 45g topre made me appreciate the dampened alps switch. I even like silent linears now. Weird, I know. The only thing about any dampened switch is that it draws so much attention to every little flaw in the keyboard b/c you can hear those flaws (squeaks and rattles) so much clearer.Same here. I started out thinking I preferred clicky switches and evolved to really prefer light tactiles including Zilent, Aliaz, T1, and especially Topre (45g or BKE ultra lights). I have a suspicion that damped Alps might actually be best for me, but I won't be satisfied until I've at least tried some of the more holy grail tactile versions like salmon or orange.
Interesting, though would be quite time consuming. What would this change?
Matias tactile leaves in Alps housings are much more tactile and don't have the scratchy-feeling tactile bump like the late SKCM tactiles had.
Interesting, though would be quite time consuming. What would this change?
Matias tactile leaves in Alps housings are much more tactile and don't have the scratchy-feeling tactile bump like the late SKCM tactiles had.
Interesting, though would be quite time consuming. What would this change?
To clarify... you're comparing Matias tactile leaves vs, simplified alps tactile leaves?
To clarify... you're comparing Matias tactile leaves vs, simplified alps tactile leaves?
No, the late SKCM blacks and dampened whites without the slots in the top housing. The tactile leaves in those are junk and wear out too fast. Matias switches have a slightly smaller slider than the Alps slider, so the tactile leaf catches on the Alps slider more, creating more tactility.
i used to hate dampened cream, but my tastes have evolved over time. Something about using Zilents and 45g topre made me appreciate the dampened alps switch. I even like silent linears now. Weird, I know. The only thing about any dampened switch is that it draws so much attention to every little flaw in the keyboard b/c you can hear those flaws (squeaks and rattles) so much clearer.Interesting. Similar experience here. Although Cherry mx and clones have long been my least favored varieties of switches, I tried v1 Zilents and rather liked them. However, Zilents are still far from the quality feel of Topre.
I finished my first independent build today. Orange Alps from AEK, Tina-C case and bluetooth. Very nice feeling :)
open source alps plates (HHKB included):
https://github.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates
https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14038&start=#p315230
don't quote me, but a bunch of 60% cases have the same mounting points/stad-offs.
I finished my first independent build today. Orange Alps from AEK, Tina-C case and bluetooth. Very nice feeling :)
Hey Wojciech, awesome board! I have been interested in putting together an alps HHKB together recently as well but couldn't find any aluminum ones that supported an alps plate. Even when I look at the Tina on Ali/KBD it looks like it's only for MX. How did you do this? Am I (please tell me I am) mistaken on the Tina being only mx? Would love to hear any details/tips you have on achieving an alps HHKB!
dampened cream/white?Yes
case?Iris (no middle layer)
caps?AEK II
@superbia - ooh, would love to see it. how do you like it so far?
something very similar is next on my wish list.
i currently have a viterbi & love it. would like to try a staggered ortho, but don't want to get too small. ideally, i'd like to keep the 7 columns instead of 5 or 6 and would like to try it in the split dactyl/manuform style.
These are on their way to E3E and gainsborough
(Attachment Link)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iCcmTJLmYAkHqexK6
@Venatorious - Very nice! What was the source board?
@Venatorious - Very nice! What was the source board?
A tandem 6526 board(not sure if I got the numbers right)
There's a lot more alps stuff in my sale thread in the classifieds section. Click here > :p https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=101142.0;topicseen (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=101142.0;topicseen)
@Venatorious - Very nice! What was the source board?
A tandem 6526 board(not sure if I got the numbers right)
There's a lot more alps stuff in my sale thread in the classifieds section. Click here > :p https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=101142.0;topicseen (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=101142.0;topicseen)
You ****ed me up bad with that sale man... Hope you can send to europe :eek:
So much want.Do itttttt :p
So little funds. :( :(
My first post here after being the lurker for more then 3-4 years.I'm not an expert on NIB stuff or ISO layouts, but the switches aren't worth much because its white alps. The layout is ISO and not bigass, so that's good news. I'd say like $150-$250 depending on the person since it has everything, including instructions.
Can you please help me with aprox value on this vintage MCK-142 Pro Ortek .
It is never used completely NOS with packaging, instructions and everything - using white Alps
https://imgur.com/a/CCSWiELShow Image(https://imgur.com/mb5Y80F)Show Image(https://imgur.com/CJjmsat)Show Image(https://imgur.com/1DOMqqH)Show Image(https://imgur.com/zNKSmIf)
Thanks guys! :thumb:
It's almost like the surface area is slightly smaller than my other XDA sets.Good to hear, it was one of my concerns about trying a uniform profile keyset. But they're alps and blank, so i had to get them.
Yes, the standard thickness for an alps plate is also 1.5mm.
I also have 3 IBM model M waiting for the bolt and nuts mod due to them having a lot of plastic rivet broken, but from what i halfway tested, they feel good but too light in my opinion
Yes, the standard thickness for an alps plate is also 1.5mm.
Thank you very much, that mean i can literally move onto my project next month.
Yes, the standard thickness for an alps plate is also 1.5mm.
Thank you very much, that mean i can literally move onto my project next month.
The stabilizers won't clip in properly with 1.5, I use 1.2 (as FR-4 plates).
The other day I got a vintage board with Blue ALPS -- I figured I'd try to harvest and make a clicky Alps custom board some day...Noice! :D Good choice, you were on the verge of throwing away arguably the best-sounding blue Alps chassis xD .
But I found out I could convert it instead, and it just sounded so good in the original chassis, with its metallic plate and large, hollow plastic case.
So I converted my SKCM Blue Alps Leading Edge DC-2014 to USB :D
Here are some photos:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/uZOucuM.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VYzE6C5.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/r62naob.png)
And here's a typing test
The other day I got a vintage board with Blue ALPS -- I figured I'd try to harvest and make a clicky Alps custom board some day...Noice! :D Good choice, you were on the verge of throwing away arguably the best-sounding blue Alps chassis xD .
But I found out I could convert it instead, and it just sounded so good in the original chassis, with its metallic plate and large, hollow plastic case.
So I converted my SKCM Blue Alps Leading Edge DC-2014 to USB :D
Here are some photos:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/uZOucuM.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VYzE6C5.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/r62naob.png)
And here's a typing test
I still have the body of an M0116 that I have no idea what to do with.
I still have the body of an M0116 that I have no idea what to do with.
Give it to me, of course.
- Originals Alps cream linearized with dampers
My first build ever :Show Image(https://i.redd.it/pgjd6hkwh9h31.jpg)
https://imgur.com/gallery/hBCB9IV (https://imgur.com/gallery/hBCB9IV)
Specs :
- Apple extended keyboard II from 95
- French Azerty ISO version
- Original plate cutted and painted
- 3D printed sub frame (The bronze support, see image below)
- Originals Alps cream linearized with dampers
- Originals keycaps dye subbed with Lilas I-poly.
- Run with QMK on a Teensy 2++
- Completly handwired (because there is no PCB for AEK ISO)
Run QMK Firmware
If you know how I can find others alps used keyboards with some cool keycaps like cyrilic, japanese, korean it would be very appreciated.
Tell me what did you think about this one.
@Rob27shred - don't be afraid to mix strong & limit time. check frequently.Thanks for the tips!
For a switch transplant into an AT101, does it make a big difference which AT101 to chose in terms of feel and sound? Most of the newer ones with newer logo are cheaper and with keycaps in better condition.
The Dell is a great chassis for transplantation if you can live with the larger footprint. The earliest models had a steel plate purely for weight attached in the bottom case shell, probably about 500g
I recommend a "W" model so that you can get Windows keys, and black cases are nice, although the caps are pad printed. You can get replacement caps, but you have to dig deeper to get space bar and CapsLock.
The other day I got a vintage board with Blue ALPS -- I figured I'd try to harvest and make a clicky Alps custom board some day...
Yeah, there definitely is something beautiful about the sound of the switches in the big old chassis. Like the switch was meant to be in itThe other day I got a vintage board with Blue ALPS -- I figured I'd try to harvest and make a clicky Alps custom board some day...
I will just add I had two SKCM blue customs, one TKL swapped into a Filco Zero and another that was in a KBDFans 60% and the sound of blue Alps is no where near what you get in a large vintage case, it starts to sound closer to Box Royals in these small cases.
Yeah, there definitely is something beautiful about the sound of the switches in the big old chassis. Like the switch was meant to be in itThe other day I got a vintage board with Blue ALPS -- I figured I'd try to harvest and make a clicky Alps custom board some day...
I will just add I had two SKCM blue customs, one TKL swapped into a Filco Zero and another that was in a KBDFans 60% and the sound of blue Alps is no where near what you get in a large vintage case, it starts to sound closer to Box Royals in these small cases.
Yeah, there definitely is something beautiful about the sound of the switches in the big old chassis. Like the switch was meant to be in itThe other day I got a vintage board with Blue ALPS -- I figured I'd try to harvest and make a clicky Alps custom board some day...
I will just add I had two SKCM blue customs, one TKL swapped into a Filco Zero and another that was in a KBDFans 60% and the sound of blue Alps is no where near what you get in a large vintage case, it starts to sound closer to Box Royals in these small cases.
<3 :D
the deskthority wiki is missing weights for those two.
you can always swap in lighter spring.
light tactile... me too.... keep us posted on your findings.
The Dell is a great chassis for transplantation if you can live with the larger footprint. The earliest models had a steel plate purely for weight attached in the bottom case shell, probably about 500g
I recommend a "W" model so that you can get Windows keys, and black cases are nice, although the caps are pad printed. You can get replacement caps, but you have to dig deeper to get space bar and CapsLock.
Hey we're AT101W brothers, LOL!
(Attachment Link)
I managed to get the regular Caps Lock key to work by clipping the stem in half & wedging it into the switch with a piece of plastic toothpick. It worked surprisingly well, it doesn't even come off when I blow it down with my metro vac! The spacebar I got to work with the 3D printed adapters sold during the Nexus slider/housing GB, but I'm pretty sure you can find open source files for ones if you have access to a 3D printer or there are also some people who sell them on Shapeways.
The Dell is a great chassis for transplantation if you can live with the larger footprint. The earliest models had a steel plate purely for weight attached in the bottom case shell, probably about 500g
I recommend a "W" model so that you can get Windows keys, and black cases are nice, although the caps are pad printed. You can get replacement caps, but you have to dig deeper to get space bar and CapsLock.
Hey we're AT101W brothers, LOL!
(Attachment Link)
I managed to get the regular Caps Lock key to work by clipping the stem in half & wedging it into the switch with a piece of plastic toothpick. It worked surprisingly well, it doesn't even come off when I blow it down with my metro vac! The spacebar I got to work with the 3D printed adapters sold during the Nexus slider/housing GB, but I'm pretty sure you can find open source files for ones if you have access to a 3D printer or there are also some people who sell them on Shapeways.
Sup.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/OGdVCYs.jpg)
@_rubik - AEKII case is plastic, it would melt. Powder coating is a treatment done to metal to give it a thicker/tougher finish than paint.
Some good spraypaint will work (that adhere's to plastic). Just, at least, quadruple the curing time, and don't touch it till then. Give the case a good once over with a scotchbrite pad or something to rough up the surface so the paint has something good to bite into. scotchbrite will take the shine off the abs without leaving marks like sandpaper.
Any of the creams for sale/trade? I picked up an AEKII which has the later white dampened.
After being a long time capacitive buckling springs fan who thought there was no need for everything else (other than for layout and convenience), I finally got myself to try Alps.
I can't believe I had gone 5+ years in keyboards without ever trying them out!
I'm now currently working on converting my LK1800-fe into supporting Alps. I've already acquired and lubed up some orange Alps switches, and got most of a keycap set. All I need to do is finish up the plate, make sure it works, and then get it made.
I had no idea that tactile Alps switches were that much better than any MX option. Someone should have convinced me sooner.
Someone should have convinced me sooner.
Someone should have convinced me sooner.
Some people read what Chyros says.
LOL xD
Someone should have convinced me sooner.
Some people read what Chyros says.
Sup.
Nice, another lost brother found! Black Dell bigfoot/Tai-Hao ALPS Dolch crew rise!
Sup.
Nice, another lost brother found! Black Dell bigfoot/Tai-Hao ALPS Dolch crew rise!
Can someone tell me where and/or how to order the alternate CapsLock that will fit the AT101?
I tried Mechanical Keyboards but they are making like they don't know what I am talking about.
Thanks!
Got a board with orange Alps. Forgot how amazing they are.
AT101 gets less respect than it should. After you break it in, you should find that it is a very pleasant workhorse.I also feel that I would absolutely love this keyboard once getting used to it. It is so well design in my opinion, I make noticeably less typo using this than my last one for sure.
That is an early one, if it has PBT caps you should consider yourself especially lucky. Test it with acetone (aka fingernail polish remover) - touch a tiny drop on the inside of a key cap with a toothpick and scratch around a bit. PBT caps will be unharmed, ABS will melt slightly and you will see the scratch.
Very nice, congrats! :) I maintain an AT101 should be everyone's first board :D . And NOS is the best stock!
@DALExSNAIL - worth a shot. and really the only way to get lighter alps. i grabbed a set for a build i have planned. i think i remember reading somewhere the initial issues were worked out in the last year or two. obviously the only other option would be to harvest from other switches.
what weight were you thinking of getting?
what switch were you planning to swap them into?
Thank you, though I am unsure what is NOS :pIt's an abbreviation for New Old Stock.
Please consider additional forces of Contact leaf(5-10cN) & 2nd Leaf(5-15cN)so, really doubt that you would notice a big difference.
quiet clicks... they're already a bit lighter (60/35 per their site) than normal dampened alps (usually around 70-ish)
looking at sprits site (https://www.spritdesigns.com/alps)... says 45 is similar to green linears (which are 50-ish), matias linear & tactiles. but would feel like a heavier weight in a tactile or clicky switch (resistance of contact & tactile leafs)QuotePlease consider additional forces of Contact leaf(5-10cN) & 2nd Leaf(5-15cN)so, really doubt that you would notice a big difference.
yes, alps can be opened without desoldering. little different than MX but still totally do-able.
funny, your tastes seem to line up with what i was going for with my next project. i actually have 45cn sprit springs, alps green springs, and a bunch of older apple boards (including a dampened white alps AEKII '95)
i could do some experimenting with what i have, but would have time for another week or two.
i am also typing on a board with ergo clears (cherry clear stem/top housing, gateron brown spring/bottom housing) and have had no issues with stems not returning.
GUYS my blue alps came in the mail! Even though I don't like clicky switches they are still really good!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Things I like about Blue Alps
I have a blue alps board in terrible condition, the switches bind and are really scratchy. I tried a manual clean on a few switches but they still kinda sucked so I invested in an ultrasonic bath.
What do people recommend using for fluid?
I have a blue alps board in terrible condition, the switches bind and are really scratchy. I tried a manual clean on a few switches but they still kinda sucked so I invested in an ultrasonic bath.
What do people recommend using for fluid?
I have a blue alps board in terrible condition, the switches bind and are really scratchy. I tried a manual clean on a few switches but they still kinda sucked so I invested in an ultrasonic bath.
What do people recommend using for fluid?
I would clean the bottom housings and then get NOS Pine White top housings and swap the top housings. Now this will make the switches a bit higher pitched but the amount of smoothness that you get back from the new top housings is worth it.
Hello fellow Alps lovers. I've been using an m0116 with Orange Alps for the last year or so which has been a blast, but for my daily driver I really need n-key rollover and I'd prefer a bit more of a standard layout. Now I'm looking for a case for a new build, but I haven't kept a close eye on group buys for a while, and most of what I've seen lately seem to only support Cherry. Are there any interesting upcoming cases that are Alps-compatible? Haven't heard anything about the UEK for a while. I also really liked the look of the Lunar AEK (and would probably prefer a 66% or TKL layout) but unfortunately didn't have the money at the time and now they're quite expensive on the used market.
Would also be interested in non-group buy cases if anyone has some experience with them, think I saw a 66% alu or steel case that was Alps-compatible a few years ago but now I can't remember the name of it for the life of me.
Hey all,yes, there are differences besides the weighting, but they're not that huge if you have pine yellows.
is there any physical difference between skcl yellows & greens? I read that the yellow spring is heavier, but if I throw a green spring in a yellow switch, would there be any actual difference in feel or sound? Thanks :D
I finally finished a project of mine today, assembling an SKCM orange board with nexus sliders, modified original top housings and a set of SA Dasher in a tex aluminium TKL case. I tried the nexus housings, but they suffered from terrible binding.
It works! It's nice to type on, it does have a slight tradeoff, comparing it to an M0116 for reference, off centre keypresses have some resistance to them, so i've started applying a trace of ptfe lube to the modifier keys, the main alphas are just fine.
I'll use it as a daily driver for a few weeks and report my thoughts on it in more detail once I've gotten used to it.
I finally finished a project of mine today, assembling an SKCM orange board with nexus sliders, modified original top housings and a set of SA Dasher in a tex aluminium TKL case. I tried the nexus housings, but they suffered from terrible binding.
It works! It's nice to type on, it does have a slight tradeoff, comparing it to an M0116 for reference, off centre keypresses have some resistance to them, so i've started applying a trace of ptfe lube to the modifier keys, the main alphas are just fine.
I'll use it as a daily driver for a few weeks and report my thoughts on it in more detail once I've gotten used to it.
After getting the cruciformer I also built a project that's been ongoing for a long time. GMK Yuri in a pearl keyboard with orange alps and nexus sliders. I did use the nexus housings as well, but after seeing the binding issue, I just filed them a bit instead of filing the original housings. Still want to try some with original housings though, I think it changes the feeling quite a bit.
Let us know your impressions!
GUYS my blue alps came in the mail! Even though I don't like clicky switches they are still really good!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Things I like about Blue Alps
What is the name of the keyboard, if I may ask?
GUYS my blue alps came in the mail! Even though I don't like clicky switches they are still really good!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Things I like about Blue Alps
What is the name of the keyboard, if I may ask?
This is a late reply :) The keyboard is unidentifiable, but on the PCB I have found a marking that reads: KB-5161EA
I've cleaned up some SKCM blues and noticed something about them, despite looking perfectly clean they're just not as smooth as my SKCM oranges, a switch I'm significantly more familiar with. They're not bad at all, just the oranges don't stick when pressed off centre at all, even at extreme angles.This is a condition thing. Alps switches in good condition don't bind on off-centre keypresses. Most often, in my experience, the part at fault is the slider track in the upper housing. This has the potential to get rough with use, increasing friction. Also in my experience, lubrication only shows very limited success, and is no substitute for buying good-condition switches. As such, your findings are directly in line with mine.
I experimented with swapping the sliders as I have a ton of spare from my nexus slider build and to my surprise the slider was what made the difference. I much prefer my blues with orange sliders in.
Looking at them close up, the plastic on the blues is a little more textured. Lube doesn't make a difference, unlubed orange sliders are better than lubed blue ones.
I've cleaned up some SKCM blues and noticed something about them, despite looking perfectly clean they're just not as smooth as my SKCM oranges, a switch I'm significantly more familiar with. They're not bad at all, just the oranges don't stick when pressed off centre at all, even at extreme angles.This is a condition thing. Alps switches in good condition don't bind on off-centre keypresses. Most often, in my experience, the part at fault is the slider track in the upper housing. This has the potential to get rough with use, increasing friction. Also in my experience, lubrication only shows very limited success, and is no substitute for buying good-condition switches. As such, your findings are directly in line with mine.
I experimented with swapping the sliders as I have a ton of spare from my nexus slider build and to my surprise the slider was what made the difference. I much prefer my blues with orange sliders in.
Looking at them close up, the plastic on the blues is a little more textured. Lube doesn't make a difference, unlubed orange sliders are better than lubed blue ones.
I've cleaned up some SKCM blues and noticed something about them, despite looking perfectly clean they're just not as smooth as my SKCM oranges, a switch I'm significantly more familiar with. They're not bad at all, just the oranges don't stick when pressed off centre at all, even at extreme angles.This is a condition thing. Alps switches in good condition don't bind on off-centre keypresses. Most often, in my experience, the part at fault is the slider track in the upper housing. This has the potential to get rough with use, increasing friction. Also in my experience, lubrication only shows very limited success, and is no substitute for buying good-condition switches. As such, your findings are directly in line with mine.
I experimented with swapping the sliders as I have a ton of spare from my nexus slider build and to my surprise the slider was what made the difference. I much prefer my blues with orange sliders in.
Looking at them close up, the plastic on the blues is a little more textured. Lube doesn't make a difference, unlubed orange sliders are better than lubed blue ones.
Either way, I'm probably going to swap in the orange sliders, kind of annoying not to keep them original, but they do feel that much better.
I've cleaned up some SKCM blues and noticed something about them, despite looking perfectly clean they're just not as smooth as my SKCM oranges, a switch I'm significantly more familiar with. They're not bad at all, just the oranges don't stick when pressed off centre at all, even at extreme angles.This is a condition thing. Alps switches in good condition don't bind on off-centre keypresses. Most often, in my experience, the part at fault is the slider track in the upper housing. This has the potential to get rough with use, increasing friction. Also in my experience, lubrication only shows very limited success, and is no substitute for buying good-condition switches. As such, your findings are directly in line with mine.
I experimented with swapping the sliders as I have a ton of spare from my nexus slider build and to my surprise the slider was what made the difference. I much prefer my blues with orange sliders in.
Looking at them close up, the plastic on the blues is a little more textured. Lube doesn't make a difference, unlubed orange sliders are better than lubed blue ones.
Either way, I'm probably going to swap in the orange sliders, kind of annoying not to keep them original, but they do feel that much better.
Well SKCM blues & oranges ran at the same time for a bit I believe. Also the major difference between clicky & tactile SKCM ALPS is the secondary leaf (tactile or click leaf), so other than visually for all intents & purposes they are the same as better condition blues.
... Also leds because Ducks...
Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191205/e2e56dceba9ea707ac5c7c92f75cce83.jpg)
Heya folks, wanna share my little project that came to fruition recently. Featuring the King of Tactiles, Alps SKCM Browns on a FR4 plate. The enclosure is a custom cut, bonded (which failed horrendously at QC but somehow the guy let it slipped), and painted (which also failed, but hey it looks good on pics) acrylic Orion V3. Also leds because Ducks.
Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191205/e2e56dceba9ea707ac5c7c92f75cce83.jpg)
Heya folks, wanna share my little project that came to fruition recently. Featuring the King of Tactiles, Alps SKCM Browns on a FR4 plate. The enclosure is a custom cut, bonded (which failed horrendously at QC but somehow the guy let it slipped), and painted (which also failed, but hey it looks good on pics) acrylic Orion V3. Also leds because Ducks.
My new find fk-747 with polish sub legendsShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/ZHJ5slJ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/2r0Kllw.jpg)
More photos: https://imgur.com/a/uxBlQ6n
i feel that those keycaps will get old with age
Not a bit. They make the bottom out very pleasant since the browns have such a violent tactile event. I like soft plates for all kinds of switches since I used to have SKCM Blues on sus and it was painful to typeShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191205/e2e56dceba9ea707ac5c7c92f75cce83.jpg)
Heya folks, wanna share my little project that came to fruition recently. Featuring the King of Tactiles, Alps SKCM Browns on a FR4 plate. The enclosure is a custom cut, bonded (which failed horrendously at QC but somehow the guy let it slipped), and painted (which also failed, but hey it looks good on pics) acrylic Orion V3. Also leds because Ducks.
How are the browns on an FR4 plate? Specially compared to on a regular aluminium plate. Does the plate drown the tactility bump?
Not a bit. They make the bottom out very pleasant since the browns have such a violent tactile event. I like soft plates for all kinds of switches since I used to have SKCM Blues on sus and it was painful to type
Not a bit. They make the bottom out very pleasant since the browns have such a violent tactile event. I like soft plates for all kinds of switches since I used to have SKCM Blues on sus and it was painful to typeShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191205/e2e56dceba9ea707ac5c7c92f75cce83.jpg)
Heya folks, wanna share my little project that came to fruition recently. Featuring the King of Tactiles, Alps SKCM Browns on a FR4 plate. The enclosure is a custom cut, bonded (which failed horrendously at QC but somehow the guy let it slipped), and painted (which also failed, but hey it looks good on pics) acrylic Orion V3. Also leds because Ducks.
How are the browns on an FR4 plate? Specially compared to on a regular aluminium plate. Does the plate drown the tactility bump?
Imo any non-metal material plate would do the trick. I went with FR4 since that was the option available at the time.Not a bit. They make the bottom out very pleasant since the browns have such a violent tactile event. I like soft plates for all kinds of switches since I used to have SKCM Blues on sus and it was painful to typeShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191205/e2e56dceba9ea707ac5c7c92f75cce83.jpg)
Heya folks, wanna share my little project that came to fruition recently. Featuring the King of Tactiles, Alps SKCM Browns on a FR4 plate. The enclosure is a custom cut, bonded (which failed horrendously at QC but somehow the guy let it slipped), and painted (which also failed, but hey it looks good on pics) acrylic Orion V3. Also leds because Ducks.
How are the browns on an FR4 plate? Specially compared to on a regular aluminium plate. Does the plate drown the tactility bump?
What kind of plate would you say feels good/similar to FR4? I'm planning to build an ergonomic with blues. Have you tried anything better that you prefer more than FR4?
Yeah, plastic really brings out the sound more. Just look at the DC2014. Better than every other Alps board because it's made out of... you guessed it! Plastic!
treeleaf64
Today I received an ALPS Electric keyboard to replace one that I had years ago but foolishly sold to J Carpenter at a time when I needed a few bucks quick.
I have been looking for another one for a long time, and finally it turned up on ebay, here in Tennessee (right in the tornado zone). I bought it, at the time of the tornado, for a great price (<$50 shipped). I was amazed that nobody else snagged it, and I certainly wasn't going to post it in Great Finds.
The unit was a little dirty on the outside but pristine and like new inside, Pine whites with doubleshot key caps! I can't get a shot of the PCB markings without removing the switches, which I am not going to do. Note the alternate stabilizer accommodations on the space bar.
@monteyalps - looks great! what caps you planning on using?
Hi all-
Really enjoy seeing all these boards!!!
I have never tried Alps before and am wondering how I can get one. After some googling, it seems like blue, orange, salmon alps are most recommended, while people don't like the black ones as much.
Is there a board that's not too difficult to get or too expensive? If you're thinking about getting rid of a board that's actually decent for a beginner, please do not hesitate to message me.
Thanks!
An AEK1 or M0116. They all have salmon or orange alps which are excellent, and they're pretty easy to find and are not hideously expensive. Just make sure you get a clean one.
@gnho - you can use hasu's adb to usb converter (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=14290.0) (or build one yourself) to reprogram the apple adb boards. hasu also has one for other protocols (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72052.0) and soarer's converter (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17458.0) is popular as well. easy way to convert to usb and custom keymap to test and play with a board without having to mess with any of the internals of a board.
you don't have to use a dry lube on alps. it's just most alp switches are very old (even new old stock) and after a couple decades, the lube that the factory may have put in the switches has probably dried out. this seems to be a common misconception.Yeah that's definitely my takeaway since the stuff I sprayed on looks like teflon in a really thick mineral oil or something and it works really well.
watch Chyrosran22's exceptional (an through) Alps Restoration Guide. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmdu0w_k-0E&list=PL285ATFsHGY9QW3hD8JSNP5BSWbSz25vI)
I snapped up an apple M0110AIf you can't do it with my procedure, you can still buy these NOS.
Anyone got any tips for reconditioning the SKCC tall creams in it? Same kinda treatment as SKCM, open and remove chow?
Will be my first linear board, not sure I'll use it properly, I just punted a lowball offer on it and won!
I snapped up an apple M0110AIf you can't do it with my procedure, you can still buy these NOS.
Anyone got any tips for reconditioning the SKCC tall creams in it? Same kinda treatment as SKCM, open and remove chow?
Will be my first linear board, not sure I'll use it properly, I just punted a lowball offer on it and won!
Note that the retainer tabs on SKCC are MUCH more fragile than on SKCL/M. Also, you'll need to desolder, as the switches are held to the plate top-side.
While fixing up one of my AEK II last night I did a little experiment, I took the switch top, spring, tactile leaf and slider from a loose SKCM salmon switch and swapped it over onto the AEK, replacing those parts in SKCM cream damped switches. I then did a 1/2 test against another AEK with normal salmon switches. They felt identical.
I'm considering doing this to a full board, the switch plates appear identical, the bottom housings are a tiny bit different, but I don't think it contributes to the feel at all, the two little nibs that the slider strike are wider in creams.
I've previously done a full switch swap from bamboo white to get an ISO AEKII with salmons which was a huge hassle but the resulting board is my best, so I have a perfect board to compare with. I bought a couple of hundred loose salmons so will do the rest of the board and see how a full swap compares to a "top swap".
I dunno if it'd work with bamboo switches, swapping slitless tops with slit tops.
Edit: Tried it with bamboo damped white, works exactly as well, the switch bottoms seem functionally the same, but the little nibs are even bigger still than pine damped creams.
While fixing up one of my AEK II last night I did a little experiment, I took the switch top, spring, tactile leaf and slider from a loose SKCM salmon switch and swapped it over onto the AEK, replacing those parts in SKCM cream damped switches. I then did a 1/2 test against another AEK with normal salmon switches. They felt identical.
I'm considering doing this to a full board, the switch plates appear identical, the bottom housings are a tiny bit different, but I don't think it contributes to the feel at all, the two little nibs that the slider strike are wider in creams.
I've previously done a full switch swap from bamboo white to get an ISO AEKII with salmons which was a huge hassle but the resulting board is my best, so I have a perfect board to compare with. I bought a couple of hundred loose salmons so will do the rest of the board and see how a full swap compares to a "top swap".
I dunno if it'd work with bamboo switches, swapping slitless tops with slit tops.
Edit: Tried it with bamboo damped white, works exactly as well, the switch bottoms seem functionally the same, but the little nibs are even bigger still than pine damped creams.
This is a good way to use your SKCM/L switches in different boards without have to desolder them. I've done the same with browns & oranges, that way I could use the browns in ALPS64 build & didn't have to mess with the Videowriter they came from. Bamboo & Pine housings will work interchangeably too like you said. The only possible restriction I can think of is if the 2nd gen switches with short switchplates top housings have anything that prevent a tall switchplate from fitting in it. I'll find out soon cause I got a Zenith 163-73 with SKCL yellows in it tomorrow or tues. I'll let you guys know!
While fixing up one of my AEK II last night I did a little experiment, I took the switch top, spring, tactile leaf and slider from a loose SKCM salmon switch and swapped it over onto the AEK, replacing those parts in SKCM cream damped switches. I then did a 1/2 test against another AEK with normal salmon switches. They felt identical.
I'm considering doing this to a full board, the switch plates appear identical, the bottom housings are a tiny bit different, but I don't think it contributes to the feel at all, the two little nibs that the slider strike are wider in creams.
I've previously done a full switch swap from bamboo white to get an ISO AEKII with salmons which was a huge hassle but the resulting board is my best, so I have a perfect board to compare with. I bought a couple of hundred loose salmons so will do the rest of the board and see how a full swap compares to a "top swap".
I dunno if it'd work with bamboo switches, swapping slitless tops with slit tops.
Edit: Tried it with bamboo damped white, works exactly as well, the switch bottoms seem functionally the same, but the little nibs are even bigger still than pine damped creams.
This is a good way to use your SKCM/L switches in different boards without have to desolder them. I've done the same with browns & oranges, that way I could use the browns in ALPS64 build & didn't have to mess with the Videowriter they came from. Bamboo & Pine housings will work interchangeably too like you said. The only possible restriction I can think of is if the 2nd gen switches with short switchplates top housings have anything that prevent a tall switchplate from fitting in it. I'll find out soon cause I got a Zenith 163-73 with SKCL yellows in it tomorrow or tues. I'll let you guys know!
I think the only issue would be tall switch plates in short switchplate bottom housings, which you wouldn't do when avoiding soldering anyway. There are little risers on short switchplate bottoms which ensure the switch plate is all the way up the switch, I strongly suspect that swapping all but the plate and bottom will work just fine.
It's really handy when you most care about using the best switches with a normal layout for daily use.
I saw a youtube comment about changing the top housing, the slider, and the leaf from a bamboo black to a better one. But then I read somewhere else that the switch plate also contributes to the key feel so doing so would not be as effective as desoldering + soldering in new switches.
Would the switch plate not add anything to the key feel at all? I always thought it would.
It's funny, not that I have all this extra time I don't actual feel like doing anything with my boards. Once everything goes back to normal I'm sure I'll regret wasting all this time.
I saw a youtube comment about changing the top housing, the slider, and the leaf from a bamboo black to a better one. But then I read somewhere else that the switch plate also contributes to the key feel so doing so would not be as effective as desoldering + soldering in new switches.
Would the switch plate not add anything to the key feel at all? I always thought it would.
Ah i see. Should have kept my bamboo black then i bought it nos, and then slapped white skcm in it or st. Damn lesson learned i guess, will try to get back into alps game if I can pick up some good one. Thanks guys
Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191205/e2e56dceba9ea707ac5c7c92f75cce83.jpg)
Heya folks, wanna share my little project that came to fruition recently. Featuring the King of Tactiles, Alps SKCM Browns on a FR4 plate. The enclosure is a custom cut, bonded (which failed horrendously at QC but somehow the guy let it slipped), and painted (which also failed, but hey it looks good on pics) acrylic Orion V3. Also leds because Ducks.
How are the browns on an FR4 plate? Specially compared to on a regular aluminium plate. Does the plate drown the tactility bump?
Anyone know how SKCM Blue tactility compares to SKCM Brown? From what I understand SKCM Brown are also heavier? I'm quite satisfied with SKCM Blue as far as weight and tactility goes, I don't think I would want more; ie the BKE Light Topre domes were incredibly fatiguing after even just few hours of use.
I have an opportunity to get an SKCM Brown board for a decent price, but some things have me a bit apprehensive. At the very least may be worth buying to part out the switches.
Anyone know how SKCM Blue tactility compares to SKCM Brown? From what I understand SKCM Brown are also heavier? I'm quite satisfied with SKCM Blue as far as weight and tactility goes, I don't think I would want more; ie the BKE Light Topre domes were incredibly fatiguing after even just few hours of use.
I have an opportunity to get an SKCM Brown board for a decent price, but some things have me a bit apprehensive. At the very least may be worth buying to part out the switches.
They are very different, you'll have to try them yourself... they don't feel like any other switch. Fascinating things, they are. Tactility is drawn out over the course of the travel, so there's no "event", it is just in the feel of the switch itself. Hard to explain.
No, browns are not like oranges. Blue are more like oranges than browns are.Anyone know how SKCM Blue tactility compares to SKCM Brown? From what I understand SKCM Brown are also heavier? I'm quite satisfied with SKCM Blue as far as weight and tactility goes, I don't think I would want more; ie the BKE Light Topre domes were incredibly fatiguing after even just few hours of use.
I have an opportunity to get an SKCM Brown board for a decent price, but some things have me a bit apprehensive. At the very least may be worth buying to part out the switches.
They are very different, you'll have to try them yourself... they don't feel like any other switch. Fascinating things, they are. Tactility is drawn out over the course of the travel, so there's no "event", it is just in the feel of the switch itself. Hard to explain.
This sounds like SKCM Orange to me- I've always felt like Oranges are a "heavy linear", I know that isn't quite accurate thing to say, but the bump is so long and drawn out with very little resistance at the very top. Does that sound like Browns (but they'd be heavier)? Not that any of this is meant as a bad thing, I really like Oranges.
You've pretty much convinced me to give it a go :D
No, browns are not like oranges. Blue are more like oranges than browns are.Anyone know how SKCM Blue tactility compares to SKCM Brown? From what I understand SKCM Brown are also heavier? I'm quite satisfied with SKCM Blue as far as weight and tactility goes, I don't think I would want more; ie the BKE Light Topre domes were incredibly fatiguing after even just few hours of use.
I have an opportunity to get an SKCM Brown board for a decent price, but some things have me a bit apprehensive. At the very least may be worth buying to part out the switches.
They are very different, you'll have to try them yourself... they don't feel like any other switch. Fascinating things, they are. Tactility is drawn out over the course of the travel, so there's no "event", it is just in the feel of the switch itself. Hard to explain.
This sounds like SKCM Orange to me- I've always felt like Oranges are a "heavy linear", I know that isn't quite accurate thing to say, but the bump is so long and drawn out with very little resistance at the very top. Does that sound like Browns (but they'd be heavier)? Not that any of this is meant as a bad thing, I really like Oranges.
You've pretty much convinced me to give it a go :D
Browns are really quite tactile, but in a rounded way, like Topre, not in a sharpish way that SKCM orange and blue are (look up the force curves if you're curious). They are also really quite stiff because the peak force is held for so long.
If you don't want something stiffer than SKCM blue, I wouldn't recommend brown.
IME, in a tray mounted build (without centered standoffs) I didn't notice any difference in feel in browns between an FR4 & alum. plate. However the FR4 plate does make the switches sound a bit more muted than on alum., for my that's a positive, not sure where your preference would lie.
Hello all. Trying to source a 1.75U right shift keycap for use on a 65% AEK projectM0116 and M0118 has a cmd-key that is 1,75 in the correct profile. I use it for my two 60% with AEK-keycaps. There is no shift-key that fits the specs as far as I know
Where i can buy acer kb 101-a?
i cant find it anywhere
Where i can buy acer kb 101-a?
i cant find it anywhere
Did you try your local Alps store?
Holy crap this this is burried deep lol.
Hey guys just get my hands on some very quality alps board. Thought the switch this time is much much better to me liking, i find it a tiny bit stiff. Im thinking of swapping the springs inside to st lighter. Has anyone tried something similar? I found the supplies for either 60cN or 65cN actuation force spring (made by the controversial spring maker but let just leave that aside for now :p) and I wonder what should I chose :'( I intend to swap my blue which has 70g actuation force i believe.
A significant amount of stiffness comes from the click leaf, SKCM blue springs are approximately 50cN, if you want to make them lighter consider 40cN or 45cN. I've been spring swapping some ambers with 45cN springs an they land around ~65g, which is pretty nice.
Where i can buy acer kb 101-a?
Bought a Zenith board a few weeks back for 40$ thinking about putting these green alps to my upcoming TKL custom but the build quality of this was just stunning so I repainted and ended up using it as my daily drive. What a great board! ;DAwesome :D . Great choice, the Zenith chassis is very stronk :) .
https://imgur.com/a/tUuC1Qy
I recently got a fairly dirty M0115 with oranges, and tried ultrasonic cleaning and lubing with dry lube. I haven't seen much of an improvement, and I get that 'grittiness' when I press down really slowly.NOS oranges are zeal v2 levels of smooth.
That being said, how would you explain the smoothness of a NOS SKCM orange alps, and how would you compare it to the smoothness of more modern switches (jtk, zeal, kailh, zeal, etc.)?
I want to know how much smoother Alps switches in better condition can be, and it would really help if I can contextualize with the switches that I'm more experienced with.
Got a board with 9/10 oranges in yesterday. Pretty confident that with a light clean I can make them 10/10 again. No sonicating or lubing or such rubbish, just open and brush the dust out of the nooks and crannies.
Just an M0116 :) .Got a board with 9/10 oranges in yesterday. Pretty confident that with a light clean I can make them 10/10 again. No sonicating or lubing or such rubbish, just open and brush the dust out of the nooks and crannies.
Spoilers, but what did you get?
Just an M0116 :) .Got a board with 9/10 oranges in yesterday. Pretty confident that with a light clean I can make them 10/10 again. No sonicating or lubing or such rubbish, just open and brush the dust out of the nooks and crannies.
Spoilers, but what did you get?
I recently got a fairly dirty M0115 with oranges, and tried ultrasonic cleaning and lubing with dry lube. I haven't seen much of an improvement, and I get that 'grittiness' when I press down really slowly.NOS oranges are zeal v2 levels of smooth.
That being said, how would you explain the smoothness of a NOS SKCM orange alps, and how would you compare it to the smoothness of more modern switches (jtk, zeal, kailh, zeal, etc.)?
I want to know how much smoother Alps switches in better condition can be, and it would really help if I can contextualize with the switches that I'm more experienced with.
If you can't find good oranges though try salmon alps - they're very similar to oranges, just around 10g heavier and a little more tactile. In my experience even rough feeling ones that are starting to bind can feel almost NOS with cleaning and a heavy coat of dry lube. I've never heard of anyone getting good results lubing orange alps.
Good condition orange boards are fairly perfectly smooth, zero binding.
I straight up don’t think you should ultrasonic and lube 1st gen alps, I’ve tried it and it never works well. just spot clean as best you can. ultrasonicing the switch tops only can work ok, but stripping all trace of the factory lube makes the sliders worse and I’ve never found any lube brings them back.
light cruft is fine, but as soon as abrasive dirt gets in an alps board it’s ruined.
Got a board with 9/10 oranges in yesterday. Pretty confident that with a light clean I can make them 10/10 again. No sonicating or lubing or such rubbish, just open and brush the dust out of the nooks and crannies.
Hello all. Trying to source a 1.75U right shift keycap for use on a 65% AEK projectM0116 and M0118 has a cmd-key that is 1,75 in the correct profile. I use it for my two 60% with AEK-keycaps. There is no shift-key that fits the specs as far as I know
no, mounts are not the same. see comparison below. right shift from aekII & apple adjustable
i don't think any of the layouts for AEK I or II had 1.75 right shifts for skcl/m alps. i was thinking maybe the m0118 might, but that's only 1.25.
- the IBM 5140 had a 1.75 right shift, though profile will probably be different.
- tai-hao makes OEM profile alps caps, as well as signature plastics
Can anyone confirm this?
The two regular sources of Alps PCBs are XD60 from China and Alps 64 from Japan. Is there any source in CONUS? I'm thinking about replacing most of my MX boards with Alps but I'm not sure where I can find the PCB and plate for new builds.
Thanks!
There’s a guy selling bare alp64 pcb on eBay. You would have to buy and solder every component though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143635832622
This PCB ships from conUS
https://cannonkeys.com/collections/pcbs/products/an-c-60-pcb
I DID NOT KNOW IT SUPPORTS ALPS! Thank you so much! Is there a source for a plate as well?
That depends on the case, it's generally easiest to just get your own plate fabricated though. Most plates I see for sale are too flexible and won't secure all switches in alignment well.
Figure out your layout, choose a case, then get a plate made for it, it's not too expensive.
That depends on the case, it's generally easiest to just get your own plate fabricated though. Most plates I see for sale are too flexible and won't secure all switches in alignment well.
Figure out your layout, choose a case, then get a plate made for it, it's not too expensive.
Thanks! Is there a vendor you use? Where can I find the design? I usually just go for the generic 60% with a tsangan layout but I'm open to any recommendation. I know Hasu sells plates but there's no shipping between US and JP in the foreseeable future...
when looking, check the switch footprint on the pcb, if they look like this they are MX & Alps compatible. a good many PCBs support alps.
(Attachment Link)
photo: Keeb.io - Quefrency (split staggered 60-65%)
Uhhhghghhh that's an incredibly looking board man. I have got to have one!
SKCM Black Alps of course, very stiff.
What keycaps and case are you planning to use?
What keycaps and case are you planning to use?
I have some nexus sliders so there are quite a few options. Case wise, just an artisan 60% wooden case.
Prepare to put in a bunch of work to make those sliders work well, ideally by modifying original alps housings. The nexus housings bind quite badly and change the feeling quite a bit.
I don't regret my nexus build, it's the only way I'd ever get SA Dasher keycaps on a board I'd actually daily drive, but there certainly are compromises to them and they'll never be quite as nice as unmodified alps.
Anyone happen to have a dxf file for a 60% Pok3r-style plate like for the Dell AT101? The open source 60% thread here has one but the bottom of the space bar stabilizer clip area is so thin, LaserBoost couldn’t produce it (it was missing the little bit of metal which helps secure the stabilizer clips).
Anyone happen to have a dxf file for a 60% Pok3r-style plate like for the Dell AT101? The open source 60% thread here has one but the bottom of the space bar stabilizer clip area is so thin, LaserBoost couldn’t produce it (it was missing the little bit of metal which helps secure the stabilizer clips).
at101 wkl or at101w? are you planning on using original alps pbt caps?
I can probably make one pretty quick. just gotta get a footprint for the stab pole hole things.
What keycaps and case are you planning to use?
I have some nexus sliders so there are quite a few options. Case wise, just an artisan 60% wooden case.
Prepare to put in a bunch of work to make those sliders work well, ideally by modifying original alps housings. The nexus housings bind quite badly and change the feeling quite a bit.
I don't regret my nexus build, it's the only way I'd ever get SA Dasher keycaps on a board I'd actually daily drive, but there certainly are compromises to them and they'll never be quite as nice as unmodified alps.
Shifted up 0.2mm!
Shifted up 0.2mm!
Wow! Did you use the AT101 I linked? Crazy cool. Only thing is that it looks like there’s no [stepped] Caps Lock in the file? And I think it’s missing some metal along the right side of the Return key right stabilizer clip, no? (Or does that interfere with the mounting screw hole or something?
Checked now, and the capslock is already correct, AT101/Granite capslock has a weird offset which results in the tab and capslock footprint being aligned, the bottom row is correct too for a 7u spacebar and 1.5u 1u 1.5u mods either side.
If they can manufacture the stab clips on the spacebar they can do the ANSI enter. If the file I uploaded doesn't work, then you're going to have to consider flipping the spacebar upside down. Alps stab mounts are not centred like cherry, so if you do it on the plate you'll have no choice but to go with a flipped spacebar.
There were inconsequential errors in the original file which are not visible with my CAD tool, if you clicked where you expected lines to be in the autocad viewer you'd see they're there.
I've made everything consistent with this one, I'll edit the other so nobody grabs that and uses it, though i'm sure laserboost would fabricate it fine.
Just heard that an-c v2 will no longer support ALPS...... WHY?????
Hogging on the Alps plate discussion from earlier, anyone knows how to/can help me with modification of dxf file for a mixed stab configuration?
I've tried to modify it myself but as a complete caveman when it comes to coding I failed miserably in trying to comprehend it, here's my file just in case (Cherry on spacebar and Alps on the rest)
Capslock has stab bits, but the left one is all mangled and you don't need a stab on capslock, some alps keycaps do have mounts for stabs, but I've never seen a keyboard ship with a wire. Do you specifically want a stabilised capslock?
I think transplanting the layout you want (I'll re-do the lot tbh) onto the outline and cutouts of the AT101 plate would work best, the AT101 plate looks like it's designed for the same case, but has rounded corners and looks a bit more made to fit that kind of case.
Capslock has stab bits, but the left one is all mangled and you don't need a stab on capslock, some alps keycaps do have mounts for stabs, but I've never seen a keyboard ship with a wire. Do you specifically want a stabilised capslock?
I think transplanting the layout you want (I'll re-do the lot tbh) onto the outline and cutouts of the AT101 plate would work best, the AT101 plate looks like it's designed for the same case, but has rounded corners and looks a bit more made to fit that kind of case.
Yeah I only need Alps stab for left shift and enter only, don't know how to remove them so I left it in as is, my apologies
Surely you need them for backspace and right shift too?
Surely you need them for backspace and right shift too?
I'm using split backspace and split right shift, so no stab needed for them, sorry for not mentioning it earlier.
The layout looks like this (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QLhTp5yCJqS-JGzcujW8vN7Ho_nMCCxI/view?usp=sharing)
Just heard that an-c v2 will no longer support ALPS...... WHY?????
Wait, there's an AN-C v2????
So, after my period of using my Model F as a spacesaver, I have decided to give a Matias Laptop Pro keyboard a go. They're wireless and small, and of course they use Matias Alps style switches.
They're quite good, I like it a lot. The dampened alps in this one make it as quiet as a quiet rubber dome, but they feel like a very good rubber dome. Well, not quite. They're still fairly tactile, but the second step of tactility, plus the softness when bottoming out feels a lot like squishing a membrane, but like...good. It's hard to explain.
Overall though I'm liking it. I just have to see if I can work with such a small keyboard. It's really nice though. I'm loving it so far.
Anyone else here use dampened Alps?
So, after my period of using my Model F as a spacesaver, I have decided to give a Matias Laptop Pro keyboard a go. They're wireless and small, and of course they use Matias Alps style switches.
They're quite good, I like it a lot. The dampened alps in this one make it as quiet as a quiet rubber dome, but they feel like a very good rubber dome. Well, not quite. They're still fairly tactile, but the second step of tactility, plus the softness when bottoming out feels a lot like squishing a membrane, but like...good. It's hard to explain.
Overall though I'm liking it. I just have to see if I can work with such a small keyboard. It's really nice though. I'm loving it so far.
Anyone else here use dampened Alps?
You could buy some Matias switches and swap the sliders and leaves around however you like too. Since I made some dampened clickies to play with, I did have a bunch of undampened tactiles as a result ... until I decided I have no need for tactiles and modified their leaves into being clicky as well. Their tactiles seem a lot smoother to me without the dampening, for whatever that's worth. I'm still not sure why the linears feel like butter with the same freaking sliders.
So, after my period of using my Model F as a spacesaver, I have decided to give a Matias Laptop Pro keyboard a go. They're wireless and small, and of course they use Matias Alps style switches.
They're quite good, I like it a lot. The dampened alps in this one make it as quiet as a quiet rubber dome, but they feel like a very good rubber dome. Well, not quite. They're still fairly tactile, but the second step of tactility, plus the softness when bottoming out feels a lot like squishing a membrane, but like...good. It's hard to explain.
Overall though I'm liking it. I just have to see if I can work with such a small keyboard. It's really nice though. I'm loving it so far.
Anyone else here use dampened Alps?
You could buy some Matias switches and swap the sliders and leaves around however you like too. Since I made some dampened clickies to play with, I did have a bunch of undampened tactiles as a result ... until I decided I have no need for tactiles and modified their leaves into being clicky as well. Their tactiles seem a lot smoother to me without the dampening, for whatever that's worth. I'm still not sure why the linears feel like butter with the same freaking sliders.
Most roughness with alps switches comes from tactile/click leaves. linears are thus inherently loads smoother!
Most roughness with alps switches comes from tactile/click leaves. linears are thus inherently loads smoother!
I haven't had any roughness with Alps clickies that are in good shape, or Matias' clickies. You've had rough Alps clickies that weren't dirty? The Matias linears actually have a .... linear .... leaf, as well, and if I swap a slider from a clicky switch into what is an otherwise stock Matias tactile switch, it smooths out significantly. I do wonder if it is the Matias tactile leaf , specifically, but have no idea how a slider with no dampening should make any difference in that case.
Most roughness with alps switches comes from tactile/click leaves. linears are thus inherently loads smoother!
I haven't had any roughness with Alps clickies that are in good shape, or Matias' clickies. You've had rough Alps clickies that weren't dirty? The Matias linears actually have a .... linear .... leaf, as well, and if I swap a slider from a clicky switch into what is an otherwise stock Matias tactile switch, it smooths out significantly. I do wonder if it is the Matias tactile leaf , specifically, but have no idea how a slider with no dampening should make any difference in that case.
I don't mean rough as in terrible, it's just noticable, especially with lower quality SKCM black that if you remove the leave they're suddenly extremely smooth.
Interesting that linears have a leaf opposite the switch mech, didn't know that. I do wonder if the slider plastic is indeed a little different. SKCM sliders certainly do vary a bunch, some are, oily, some feel completely dry and they exhibit different properties when rubbed against housing and/or metal.
Yeah, their linears feel great too if you ask me. There's something of a subtle tactile bump at the very end of travel that's difficult to describe, it sort of gradually builds until just before it bottoms out. Very smooth too.
I haven't noticed any scratchiness of Alps or Matias clickies that are in good shape, they've always felt like butter to me. Even relatively early SKCM whites feel buttery, the tactile event just isn't quite as nice.
I have only one black Alps board and have only felt a few AT101s at a scrapyard, so I figured those were all just a little dirty. I suppose that gives me a little hope, because I already have way too many old Alps boards to clean. I figured a NeXT keyboard was probably the coolest thing I was ever going to find if I were to only get one black Alps board.
Would you say that brown Alps are similarly scratchy by design? I just got one of those weird old IBM nursing terminal keyboards ... and the plate is attached to the case with plastic rivets, so I imagine that's going to be tought to thoroughly clean without further ruining the case's finish.
Yeah, their linears feel great too if you ask me. There's something of a subtle tactile bump at the very end of travel that's difficult to describe, it sort of gradually builds until just before it bottoms out. Very smooth too.
I haven't noticed any scratchiness of Alps or Matias clickies that are in good shape, they've always felt like butter to me. Even relatively early SKCM whites feel buttery, the tactile event just isn't quite as nice.
I have only one black Alps board and have only felt a few AT101s at a scrapyard, so I figured those were all just a little dirty. I suppose that gives me a little hope, because I already have way too many old Alps boards to clean. I figured a NeXT keyboard was probably the coolest thing I was ever going to find if I were to only get one black Alps board.
Would you say that brown Alps are similarly scratchy by design? I just got one of those weird old IBM nursing terminal keyboards ... and the plate is attached to the case with plastic rivets, so I imagine that's going to be tought to thoroughly clean without further ruining the case's finish.
I’ve yet to try brown alps, and I wouldn’t go as far as to say any alps are scratchy by design, just that those metal leaves are the source of it when the switches are in bad condition.
it would’t surprise me if browns were more resistant to it as the tactile leaf is a mirror of a switch plate and they never seem to have issues.
I have SKCL greens and yellows that are definitely pretty rough. Not as rough as my worst SKCM blues, but not great. I suppose I'll have to tear apart that nursing board afterall, those brown switches don't feel great.
I have SKCL greens and yellows that are definitely pretty rough. Not as rough as my worst SKCM blues, but not great. I suppose I'll have to tear apart that nursing board afterall, those brown switches don't feel great.
I'm surprised, though I suspect I've just had incredible luck with alps, only had two boards in truly bad condition, an AT102 and an amazingly ****ty blue alps board I got off ebay for a rather cheap sum, I basically got what I paid for with that. Everything else (I have around a dozen alps boards) has been in fundamentally decent condition and cleaned up smooth.
Have you cleaned them all up? There's no substitute for detailing them one by one IMO. They should clean up nice as long as there isn't abrasive dirt in them and hopefully the slider still has the original lube (if it's gen 1 and had it).
check the godfather of alps Chryosran22 (Thomas), has tons of info/demos of alps
usually the roomier the case the beter the sound, usually the more solid the case the better the sound. there are fixes for spring/plate "ping"
check the godfather of alps Chryosran22 (Thomas), has tons of info/demos of alps
usually the roomier the case the beter the sound, usually the more solid the case the better the sound. there are fixes for spring/plate "ping"
I have the Lunar [AEK] (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96112.0) and the AEK64. Both are heavy, thick integrated-plate keyboards. My take is that with tactile and linear Alps, it's best to go with lighter, more flexible plates (ABS, CF, etc.) and heavier cases, or heavier plates (stainless/brass) with a lighter case (polycarbonate). The latter mimics what Alps used for all Bigfoot-style keyboards like the AEK/AEKII's, SGI Granite/Beige, AT101 etc.
I'm not sure the case size or bezel size have much to do with it.
Unfortunately, the Lunar and AEK64 don't really fit into either of my aforementioned plate/case combinations. Still, when I built my Lunar, I used SKCM oranges, and I like the result a lot. I used some dampening material inside the case, and that helped reduce some reverb nicely. There's still some ping, but that's just how it is with heavy integrated plate keyboards. The AEK64 I purchased came with brown Alps, and it was incredibly harsh, both in terms of feel *and* sound. Clicky Alps actually pair quite well in those thick integrated plate keyboards, as the cases tend to amplify the click leaf actuation. I tried SKCM amber and blues in my AEK64, but ultimately settled on blues. The ambers were fun, but like SKCM browns, I don't think I would want to daily driver them (they're so heavy). Anyways, I still put some dampening foam in my AEK64, just to take some reverb out.
TL;DR:
* For tactile/linear Alps, light plate with heavy case, or heavy plate with light case
* For clicky Alps, same as tactile/linear, but thick integrated plates work well too
Thanks man, that's exactly the kind of insight I was looking for. I guess it shouldn't be that hard to find a 60% metal plate for my ADK64... any thoughts on aluminium vs stainless steel vs brass? I suppose it would be a pretty subtle difference.
Also, regarding that Lunar with oranges... tbh the Lunar is kinda my dream case visually, although I've lost interest somewhat lately due to most typing videos on it not sounding all that good, and the extreme difficulty in getting into a group buy for the upcoming Lunar II. Any chance you have made or can make a typing video/soundbyte from it?
My girlfriend and a friend of us both got me a Dell AT101W for my birthday, I unwrapped it yesterday. I must admit that I like the soft feeling even when compared to my two Buckling Spring keyboards. I might or might not use it as a daily driver on one of my laptops... hmm. :thumb:
The W is the black variant. :)
The W is the black variant. :)
Ahh. I missed the "W." That's the ISO version, yea?
The W is the black variant.
W means with windows keys.
both would probably be pretty flimsy at that thickness.
you can sift through the materials ponoko has (https://www.ponoko.com/materials).
another vendor that's used is big blue saw, check their materials here (https://www.bigbluesaw.com/home/materials-available-for-machined-prototypes-and-production-parts.html)
as long as you have their plate dimensions, mounting positions, you could add your own layout in the plate with a combination of keyboard layout editor and the swill plate builder...
will look at the file conversions then.
shouldn't be too difficult to match up, alps is only slightly different than mx
search around and see if you can find an online converter for .step to dxf, dwg, ...some other more cross compatible file format
My girlfriend and a friend of us both got me a Dell AT101W for my birthday, I unwrapped it yesterday. I must admit that I like the soft feeling even when compared to my two Buckling Spring keyboards. I might or might not use it as a daily driver on one of my laptops... hmm. :thumb:If you like linear switches, try linearising a part of it and seeing if you like it. Personally I think linearised black Alps are excellent :D (also great for if you get them in bad condition; linearising takes off most of the scratchiness).
will look at the file conversions then.
shouldn't be too difficult to match up, alps is only slightly different than mx
search around and see if you can find an online converter for .step to dxf, dwg, ...some other more cross compatible file format
Sorry, I don't want to misunderstand you. When you say "will look at the file conversions then," are you saying that you'll look at the file conversions, or did you mean to say "Well, look at the file conversions then?" Not sure if you're offering to help, or just advising me to look into myself.
will look at the file conversions then.
shouldn't be too difficult to match up, alps is only slightly different than mx
search around and see if you can find an online converter for .step to dxf, dwg, ...some other more cross compatible file format
Sorry, I don't want to misunderstand you. When you say "will look at the file conversions then," are you saying that you'll look at the file conversions, or did you mean to say "Well, look at the file conversions then?" Not sure if you're offering to help, or just advising me to look into myself.
yes. i'll help. if we can get the step converted, it shouldn't be hard to do.
yeah, i did some initial digging, nothing straight forward in the little time i was looking.
.... the elusive M0118... i'm a little jealous. :thumb:
start by searching for a TKL that has alps support.
even if it doesn't specifically state it in the keyboard kit. you can look at the pcb.
if it has switch footprints like either of the below, it supports alps switches.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
the other things to look at is
- support of that specific focus layout (big ass enter, split right shift, etc..)
- stab support, is the focus normal alps (plate mount) stabs? do the focus caps support mx stabilizers (pcb mount)?
you may even find a more common case and get a pcb that fits that case that supports alps. do a little searching, see what you come up with. sure others will be able to make suggestions.
build - (BOM at bottom of post) https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=19491
pcb - https://www.lfkeyboards.com/lfk-tkl/
Delirious's wonderful TX84 build - https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=99552.0
Is LFKeyboards not in business anymore?
I've contacted them few times about re-stocking of SMK-TKL PCB board.. but never heard back from them.
Hey,Is LFKeyboards not in business anymore?
I've contacted them few times about re-stocking of SMK-TKL PCB board.. but never heard back from them.
Maybe, maybe not, he's very bad at coms.
You could just get this fabricated from jlcpcb https://github.com/4pplet/classyTKL, the total cost won't be all that bad and you can sell the spare.
["Esc","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=","~\n`","Del"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"|\n\\"],
[{w:1.75},"Control","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:1.75},"Shift",{a:7},""],
[{a:4,w:1.5},"Ctrl","Win",{w:1.5},"Alt",{a:7,w:7},"",{a:4,w:1.5},"Alt","Win",{w:1.5},"Ctrl"]
Hi there,
I released 3D files for my ACK60% ANSI (AEK… but compact) 3D printed keyboard.
That's a underglow tray mount case, with plates, optionnal wristrest…
You can use them to handwire, with postage or alternative controller or use a PCB. Probably ALPS64.
The plate is my best result so far in term of use. it's 7,9 mm thick, and with 100% infill that's rigid and sound proof unlike metal ones. I will probably make an ISO version soon… but's that's a long process for me.
Here are others renders : https://imgur.com/gallery/1CNpsGz
And others information on a dedicated post in the DIY section : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=111239.0
and minus the bottom row & left shift looks like "normal" iso? (this is my guess of key sizes)
if you can't find a pcb, do a handwire.
It looks like it might have a non-standard ISO-enter, backspace and r-shift (less wide)? That would make it tricky. Cool caps indeed :D
looking at the post linked above... that was a "dry run". no plate (you can see the green of the pcb as well as the diode pads), and probably not soldered (that's why the key alignment is all wonky).
- yes, all the stepped caps look like they are off center.
- possibly a JIS enter/return?
- and he added extra keys on either side of the spacebar
Anyone happen to have some spare Alps [Tai-hao] BAE stabilization pieces?
Looking for the black `\` keycap insert:
<snip>
Anyone happen to have some spare Alps [Tai-hao] BAE stabilization pieces?
Looking for the black `\` keycap insert:
<snip>
Thanks! Found that after some long searching on the internet.
Not sure about the stab wire, but you can buy this BAE stabilizer here: https://keebmeup.com/index.php?id_product=133&rewrite=smk-style-stabilizer&controller=product (https://keebmeup.com/index.php?id_product=133&rewrite=smk-style-stabilizer&controller=product)
I had literally just ordered one for myself so I can use my BAE caps, and a stabilizer barrel for my Alps TKL. The spacebar flops around a bit right now but at least it still works across the entire spacebar ¯\_(ツ)_/¯Anyone happen to have some spare Alps [Tai-hao] BAE stabilization pieces?
Looking for the black `\` keycap insert:
<snip>
Thanks! Found that after some long searching on the internet.
Not sure about the stab wire, but you can buy this BAE stabilizer here: https://keebmeup.com/index.php?id_product=133&rewrite=smk-style-stabilizer&controller=product (https://keebmeup.com/index.php?id_product=133&rewrite=smk-style-stabilizer&controller=product)
Got this beauty and restored it to former glory. Working like a charm now! Looks like genuine blue Alps to me, but I might be wrong, new to the area :)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Got this beauty and restored it to former glory. Working like a charm now! Looks like genuine blue Alps to me, but I might be wrong, new to the area :)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
original SKCM Blues, which tended to be
As it happens, I'm typing to all of you on my Matias Tactile Pro PC (http://matias.ca/tactilepro/pc/), which has been, sadly, discontinued for a while. (After buying mine second-hand, I spent three days cleaning out the previous owner's tiny beard hairs [LOL], as I hadn't gotten my blower yet.) The combination of crunchy bumps and crisp sounds make it seem more like a "clicky", certainly by today's standards. I'm just sorry Matias decided, for some reason, that only Mac users should have the pleasure... I guess they figured that's where the money was. :rolleyes:
I just found out about the NCR-80= keyboard kit
I just found out about the NCR-80= keyboard kit
Wish I could help you more on the ALPS aspect, but I don't know how/if they interface with the NCR-80.
But I have an NCR-80. It's a great vintage retro-styled case at the entry-level budget...
@gaunt, i don't have case suggestions for you, but definitely check out Delirious's wonderful alps TKL build. very thorough + some great alps specific ideas.
TX84: Half plate alps TKL
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=99552
Has the market for blue Alps collapsed? Recent ebay prices seem to be way down.
I am in a place where I need some money, and I have a near-immaculate LE DC-2014 that I considered selling - in expectation of getting several hundred dollars for it. The exterior has typical yellowing but the switches are basically new (no shine on any of the the key caps and essentially to no dust inside).
What has happened to the low supply and high demand?
Considering it's nearly perfect switches you might be able to get above retail a bit
Isn't much demand for keyboards after the hobby exploded around 2020 or soHahaha that's when my last SKCM blue review was xDDD .
Isn't much demand for keyboards after the hobby exploded around 2020 or soHahaha that's when my last SKCM blue review was xDDD .
Isn't much demand for keyboards after the hobby exploded around 2020 or soHahaha that's when my last SKCM blue review was xDDD .
Your videos are what drove me to try Alps LOL.
Same here, if Chyros can't sell you on ALPS no one can! Speaking of, my latest ALPS acquisition...
Same here, if Chyros can't sell you on ALPS no one can! Speaking of, my latest ALPS acquisition...
Nice, brown alps are probably my favourite tactile/clicky alps. I remember trying a lot of alps at a meetup and they were kinda underwhelming. Especially Blues, weren't as clicky as I thought they would be. Brown alps were pretty nice but maybe it was because we were standing and I wasn't typing but they felt kinda light in tactility in comparison to like 55g topre. The linears were pretty smooth and enjoyable though.
another +1 on chyros alps-pilling me. I've been assembling parts for a 60% board and realized that my AEK2 keycaps aren't going to fit on the h60 I ordered. I've decided that I'm going to get a WOB set and am wondering if anyone can compare the DCS WOB set that's fulfilling GB pretty soon and something like Tai-Hao's alps. I've heard there's some issues with them breaking from removal, is this something that I really need to be worried about? Thanks.
Got my first Alps board not too long ago, an SKCL Green, built into a Sharp PA-1000H thermal typewriter.
I fell ass-backwards into it. Saw the thermal writer at a local recycle center, was curious about how it worked, picked it up for $5, and discovered later (to my delight) that it had very good condition SKCL green switches. The fact that it has an integrated dust cover definitely helped keep these smooth.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/ZPHUlTJ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Plo6f3s.jpg)
The keys are nice doubleshots with no yellowing.
The only linears I have to compare these to are MX reds and some vintage calculator magnetic reed switches. Their smoothness kind of falls in between, the reeds are just unbeatable for that, but I find the Alps switches very nice to type on. The tiny hidden tactile bump at the actuation point seems to help me make less mistakes using it and the weighting is just about perfect. Definitely my favorite linears so far, and from what I've read a high bar to beat.
I quite like the machine itself for what it is, so I'm not looking to cannibalize it to make a 60%. At best I may someday do a soft reversible mod which allows for keyboard use; there's plenty of room in the case to stuff a converter.
I did a full review here, but be warned that it largely focuses on the machine itself:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=121614.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=121614.0)
why does everyone else have recycling centers that let u buy stuff but my city doesnt im gonna cry
why does everyone else have recycling centers that let u buy stuff but my city doesnt im gonna cry
Melbourne has some recycling centres which let you buy stuff, even in the more southern suburbs there are quite a bit.
Not much though, especially when it comes to keyboards as there are only cheapo rubber domes. Coolest thing I found so far was a complete ps1 for cheap.
why does everyone else have recycling centers that let u buy stuff but my city doesnt im gonna cry
why does everyone else have recycling centers that let u buy stuff but my city doesnt im gonna cry
Okay so this wasn't technically a recycle center. I left out details for brevity. It was more of a locally owned "thrift store" which almost acts as a recycle center. They take in stuff no normal thrift store would and sell it for dirt cheap, with the idea that hobbyists will have some use for it. Things like small used hand tools, boxes of assorted power transformers, computer wires, typewriters, old video cameras, etc. The owner is sort of an electronics hobbyist so you'll see some oddball stuff come in from time to time.
It's not something run by the city, so technically not "recycling center" but that's very much the intention.
Now, you're in Rochester... I wouldn't make a special trip for this since it's very hit an miss for 4 hours of driving, but if you're ever going downstate using highway 81 and want to pop in, the place I'm talking about here is the Cortland Reuse Center in Cortland NY. They're in the middle of a location change so I'd steer clear until mid November at least, and it's fairly uncommon that I actually find something valuable there (though they've been great for things like light fixtures and other small projects around the house), I just live close enough where I can pop in fairly often. If you do manage to make it down here, keep your expectations low.
FWIW New York does have some recycle centers that let you buy stuff. I went to college in New Paltz downstate, and they had one. Ithaca might also be a good bet, but I haven't checked that out personally.
I love blue because they click loudly, and it gives me a feeling that I'm a writer typing on a typewriter.Same here, if Chyros can't sell you on ALPS no one can! Speaking of, my latest ALPS acquisition...
Nice, brown alps are probably my favourite tactile/clicky alps. I remember trying a lot of alps at a meetup and they were kinda underwhelming. Especially Blues, weren't as clicky as I thought they would be. Brown alps were pretty nice but maybe it was because we were standing and I wasn't typing but they felt kinda light in tactility in comparison to like 55g topre. The linears were pretty smooth and enjoyable though.