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Group Buy Closed. Round 2 is here (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38441.0).
PrinsValium has designed a PCB with a programmable controller and a mounting plate that will fit inside a regular Filco tenkeyless keyboard case, which will enable every Filco tenkeyless user to use a full set of good old Cherry keycaps, including Cherry’s original 1.5x wide Ctrl and Alt keys. Detail technical discussion is here (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20184-The-Phantom-and-interest-check).
Unique features:
- Supports vintage Cherry double shot, laser, and dye sub keycaps
- 1.5x Ctrl and Alt vintage Cherry keycaps (PHANSI and PHISO plate options)
- With 1.5x modifiers, you can also use Cherry’s 7x spacebars
- Supports centered-stem and offset-stem Capslock (also from vintage Cherry Keyboards)
- Also support modern keyboard layout with 1.25x Ctrl and Alt modifiers (PHANSIWIN and PHISOWIN plate options)
- Supports both Costar and Cherry stabilizers
- Supports in-switch LED at Capslock and Scroll Lock locations, as well as Filco style LED locations between PrintScrn-ScrollLock-Break and Insert-Home-PageUp
- Plate design allows Cherry MX switch top removal without de-soldering the switch first
- Perfect for easy switch lubing, repair, or modding
- Excluding switches with in-switch LED
- Supports 5 extra keys between 6-pack and arrow keys (case modification required)
- Supports 6KRO over USB with current Teensy firmware
- potentially NKRO over USB in the future with new Teensy firmware
- All keys can be remapped via firmware source code changes (currently a recompile of source is required)
- LED brightness adjustable in firmware source code
- Fits inside Filco Tenkeyless cases
- PLU cases could also work
- Community support on Geekhack.org and Deskthority.net
Latest PCB design:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=38568&d=1327538723)
Other unique features of this design:
-There are 4 extra holes on the PCB (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20184-The-Phantom-and-interest-check&p=436409&viewfull=1#post436409) for each switch that should provide each stem/spring replacement without desoldering the switch from the PCB and metal plate.
- per 7bit’s request (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20184-The-Phantom-and-interest-check&p=441040&viewfull=1#post441040), you could do something crazy like this for the front row:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=38570&d=1327539437)
HaveANiceDay started the project originally with PrinsValium, and we are carrying it forward. Here is HaveANiceDay’s original post:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/bb9OX.png)
"Who was that shape in the shadows? Whose is that face in the mask?"
Ladies and Gentlemen!
I am happy to finally announce a project of mine in co-operation with PrinsValium (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:19613) of the Symmetric Stagger Board fame.
For a long time I have lusted after the Korean custom keyboards, jealous of the ability to use a full set of Cherry double shot and dye sub keycaps without substitutes!
You see, I never cared about their CNC carved Alumin(i)um bodies and I spoke about that on a few occasion. The holy grail, for me, are the keycaps.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/gRQgV.jpg)
I reached out to PrinsValium, told him my story and asked if he was interested. Luckily, he shares my views on this and he agreed to [strike]help me out[/strike] do all the work for me.
Now, before you fall asleep I'll go ahead and tell you what you probably have already guessed from the story above:
We are making a PCB with a programmable controller and a mounting plate, which will enable every Filco tenkeyless user to use a full set of good old Cherry keycaps!
Wait, what? Just for the Filco tenkeyless? Why?
It's practically impossible to make one PCB compatible with all the keyboard bodies out there, so we went with this one for a few reasons:
1. The Filco is probably the most popular tenkeyless brand around here.
2. The keyboard body on the Filco is in my opinion beautiful, I actually think it looks better than the Korean custom Alumin(i)um bodies.
3. It costs a lot to make low volumes of keyboard bodies, way more than a whole Filco tenkeyless.
4. I already own one! Yes, the privilege of being project lead.
If you still don't have a good idea what it would look like, it's basically the 86U layout!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/e3nPd.jpg)
We would need 1-sized windows keycaps for in between CTRL and ALT, but luckily there are cheap Cherry boards with just the right keycaps available.
FAQ
Why "Phantom"?
It's a Phantom behind the Filco mask!
What IS the Phantom?
A "unisex" PCB (fits ANSI and ISO), the Teensy controller and a matching mounting plate.
It fits the Filco tenkeyless and most likely the PLU ML-87(the insides of the case are identical to the Filco).
I don't know how to solder, am I SOL?
If you don't want to or can't do soldering, you can contact alaricljs (http://geekhack.org/private.php?do=newpm&u=8933) (located in the USA) or Half-Saint (http://geekhack.org/private.php?do=newpm&u=3191) (located in Europe). They are offering their soldering service. You will have to order parts from this group buy and tell us to ship the parts to one of them. You will need to work out the cost and shipping arrangement with them directly.
Why the Filco tenkeyless/PLU ML-87 and not another brand?
1. Filco are probably the most popular around geekhack of all the tenkeyless keyboards.
2. Both of those are compatible with each other, thus increasing the market size.
3. I already own one :P
Is this compatible with the Filco tenkeyless gen1 AND gen2?
Yes.
Can I use ALL of the Cherry doubleshots/dye-subs with the Phantom? Meaning the entire bottom row with the 7-sized spacebar and the off-center capslock?
YES! This is the main reason we are doing this.
But I really like the modern layout my Filco has, can I keep it the way it was?
Sure, PCB is fully compatible with both choices.
What layouts are supported by the PCB?
ANSI and ISO in standard Filco or oldschool Cherry layout.
Also there is support for the shorter shift + FN key, like on the HHKB!
Another option that is available is the UNIX layout.
Can I use it to convert my ANSI Filco tenkeyless to ISO?
Yes, and from ISO to ANSI as well!
Can I re-use my old Filco mounting plate if I just want PCB with the reprogrammable controller?
Yes.
Do I have to buy the switches myself?
Not if you reuse the old ones from the Filco.
Can I use PCB mounting (without the mounting plate)?
No, there are no holes on the PCB that are needed for PCB mounting. There were good design reasons to leave them out, sorry.
What stabilizers are supported by the mounting plate?
Costar(Filco) and Cherry stabilizers.
We still have to look if we can cram both of them on one mounting plate.
Will there be just one mounting plate?
No. Every layout will probably get a matching mounting plate.
What will the PCB look like?
It will have an awesome black finish on both sides with white silkscreen markings for easier switch mounting. The Phantom logo and text will be embedded on the copper layer like on the Filco gen2.
What will the mounting plate look like?
Bare metal which you can spray-paint as you want and if you want :)
Update history:
---
People who are involved in this group buy:
PrinsValium: PCB and plate design
BiNiaRiS: plate ordering, payment collection, US distribution
7bit: payment collection, European distribution
Litster: Organizer, group buy communication
The PCB should be between US$25 to US$40 each. And the plate should be between US$20 to US$30 each. The finally price has yet to be determined. Each order includes 1 PCB, 1 plate, 1 controller. You will need to source your own diodes and Cherry switches. And you will need to solder them together yourself.
I don't know how to solder, am I SOL?
If you don't want to or can't do soldering, you can contact alaricljs (http://geekhack.org/private.php?do=newpm&u=8933) (located in the USA) or Half-Saint (http://geekhack.org/private.php?do=newpm&u=3191) (located in Europe). They are offering their soldering service. You will have to order parts from this group buy and tell us to ship the parts to one of them. You will need to work out the cost and shipping arrangement with them directly.
alaricljs's soldering service thread here: Link (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23632-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Assembly-Service)
Total cost per kit should be between US$80 to US$120, depending on how many orders we have for bulk discount, shipping cost (factory to distributors, distributors to you), packaging cost, and paypal fees. As always, you the buyers will be responsible for all custom taxes, if any.
Order instruction:
The ordering system is up, so you can now order all parts you need to build you own Phantom keyboard!
The prices in the list are estimates and might change (most likely they will be cheaper in the end).
Shipping will be from US and Germany.
All prices are in US Dollars $:
Order-ID |qty|price|description
TEENSY | 1| 18|Teensy controller
PHANTOM | 1| 35|Phantom PCB
PHANSI | 1| 35|mount plate ANSI (1.5,1,1.5 units)
PHANSIWIN | 1| 35|mount plate ANSI with WIN keys (1.25 units)
PHISO | 1| 35|mount plate ISO
PHISOWIN | 1| 35|mount plate ISO with WIN keys
PH7BIT | 1| 35|mount plate 7BIT
MXRED | 1| 0.6|MX red plate mount switch
MXBLUE | 1| 0.6|MX blue plate mount switch
MXDARKBLUE | 1| 0.6|MX dark blue plate mount switch
MXBROWN | 1| 0.6|MX brown plate mount switch
MXCLEAR | 1| 0.6|MX clear plate mount switch
MXBLACK | 1| 0.6|MX black plate mount switch
MXGREY | 1| 2|MX grey plate mount switch
MXGREEN | 1| 2|MX green plate mount switch
DIODE | 1| 0.02|n-key rollover diode
STAB200 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
STAB400 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
STAB625 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
STAB700 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
STAB1000 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
CASE | 1| 60|case for tenkeyless layout
PHANTOMFUN | 1| 2|Phantom function key
PHANTOMMOD100 | 1| 2|Phantom 1 unit modifier key
PHANTOMMOD125 | 1| 2|Phantom 1.25 units modifier key
PHANTOMMOD150 | 1| 3|Phantom 1.5 units modifier key
PHISOREDKIT | 1| 125|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX red with stabs
PHISOCLEARKIT | 1| 125|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX clear with stabs
PHISOBLACKKIT | 1| 125|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX black with stabs
SOLDERING | 1| 200|soldering
Please send a message to Phantom with lines of order-IDs and quantities separated by space.
Don't forget your e-mail address!!!
Example:
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHANSI 1
MXRED 100
DIODE 100
STAB200 4
STAB700 1
your email address
A video to demonstrate how to open up a Filco.
[video=youtube;AfPaC8Hvczo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfPaC8Hvczo[/video]
EDIT1: changed order information a little to be more explicit.
EDIT2: Added soldering service information.
EDIT3: 7bit's ordering system information added
EDIT3: PCB layout updated at the top of this post
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Layout Examples for the different plates.
ANSI layout with Cherry 1.5x wide modifiers (There should be a 1x key on both sides between the Ctrl key and the Alt key):(http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/b/bf/Phantom_ANSI.png/541px-Phantom_ANSI.png)
ANSI layout with 1.25x wide modifiers (E.g. modern layout like Filco):
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/b/bc/Phantom_ANSIWIN.png/541px-Phantom_ANSIWIN.png)
ISO layout with Cherry 1.5x wide modifiers:
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/a/a6/Phantom_ISO.png/541px-Phantom_ISO.png)
ISO layout with 1.25x wide modifiers (E.g. modern layout like Filco):
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/1/1c/Phantom_ISOWIN.png/541px-Phantom_ISOWIN.png)
7bit's Special:
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/5/51/Phantom_7BIT.png/541px-Phantom_7BIT.png)
Below are the 5 plates we have in this group buy:PHANSI150:(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32945&d=1322255553)
PHANSI125:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32944&d=1322255552)
PHISO150:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32947&d=1322255554)
PHISO125:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32946&d=1322255553)
PH7BIT:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32967&d=1322274450)
7BIT layer with special left shift (not orderable):
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33634&d=1322771030)
Zip with all the plate designs
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Order Suggestions:
To order, send a private message to PHANTOM with order information. It is a perl script account that 7bit setup to take orders automatically.
Currently only the following parts are confirmed to be available:
TEENSY
PHANTOM
PHANSI
PHANSIWIN
PHISO
PHISOWIN
PH7BIT
MXRED
MXBLUE
MXDARKBLUE
MXBROWN
MXCLEAR
MXBLACK
MXGREY
DIODE
For example, this is what I would order or myself for an ANSI layout using my Cherry 1.5 modifiers and MX red switches (CTRL and ALT on both sides of the spacebar):
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHANSI 1
DIODE 100 //order a few more diodes in case you break one. They are super cheap.
MXRED 90 //order a few more switches for backup just in case
litster@domain.com
If you want ISO layout and want to have 1.25x modifiers on the front row (2x CTRL, 2x ALT, 2x Win, 1x App), and ERGO CLEAR, this is what you want to order:
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHISOWIN 1
DIODE 100
MXBROWN 90
MXCLEAR 90
litster@domain.com
You would need to open up the switches to use the brown springs with clear stem for ergo clear.
If you are cool like me and want a couple of different ANSI configurations, then you would order this list:
TEENSY 3
PHANTOM 3
PHANSI 2
PHANSIWIN 1
DIODE 300
MXBLUE 90
MXDARKBLUE 90
MXBROWN 90
litster@domain.com
If you are Uncle 7bit, your order would look like this:
TEENSY 5
PHANTOM 5
PH7BIT 5
DIODE 500
MXBLACK 450
7bit@7bitmail.com
This is order count before we switched over to 7bit's ordering system. Hopefullly i can post a order summary count here later. Keeping the table below here for now.
width="812" style="width: 812px"
|-
| style="width: 64px; height: 20px" |
Name
| style="width: 64px" | PCB
| style="width: 67px" | ANSI15
| style="width: 73px" | ISO15
| style="width: 71px" | ANSI125
| style="width: 69px" | ISO125
| style="width: 77px" | 7BIT
| style="width: 80px" | Teensy
| style="width: 83px" | Country
| style="width: 164px" | notes
|-
| style="height: 20px" | tsangan
| 1
| 1
|
|
|
|
| 1
| USA
|
|-
| style="height: 20px" | demik
| 1
| 1
|
|
|
|
| 1
| USA
|
|-
| style="height: 20px" | mtl
| 1
|
|
| 1
|
|
| 1
| USA
|
|-
| style="height: 20px" | alaricljs
|
|
|
| 2
|
|
|
| USA
| Just 2 ANSI125 plates
|-
| style="height: 20px" | litster
| 2
| 2
|
|
|
|
| 2
| USA
|
|-
| style="height: 20px" | 7bit
| 5
|
|
|
|
| 5
| 5
| Germany
|
|-
| style="height: 20px" | slueth
| 2
| 1
|
| 1
|
|
|
| USA
|
|-
| style="height: 20px" | laden3
| 2
| 2
|
|
|
|
| 2
| USA
|
|-
[/TABLE]
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Status update: December, 19th, 2011
First test plates were ordered, made, and second sets of plates are ordered for minor changes. Should be done this week. Also test PCBs have just been ordered as well.
Status update: November 21st, 2011
A quick update. Test plates have been ordered last week. They should be done this week. But this week is only a 3-day work week due to the US Thanksgiving holidays. BiNiaRiS will may an PHANSI plate to me and I will put switches and keycaps on the plate to verify the plate. PCB design will be finalized after that and then we can order a couple of test PCBs for one more round of verification. If everything goes well, we can then collect payments for PCBs and plates.
Status update: November 10th, 2011
BiNiaRiS is going to make 2 prototype mounting plates as soon as he receive seed money from the 3 of us. Once the plate is made and checked, we will be ordering 2 PCBs so I can build a prototype Phantom to confirm everything is working before we order all the parts.
Status Update: November 5th, 2011
7bit found a source who can provide us with Cherry MX switches of all colours. So Cherry switches are officially included in this group buy. We still need to source stabilizers.S
Satus update: November 4th 2011
Behind the scene, we are finishing up the design and closing a few decisions. As you know we maybe getting a custom keycap made for this special keyboard. It will likely a separate group buy. We are looking into if we could include switches in the group buy, or direct group buyers to mouser or digikey to get the switches directly from these vendors. We are going to do a round of virtual measurement check of the plate design against an actual Filco tenkeyless keyboard. We will likely print out the PCB on cardboard in 1:1 scale to more measurement checking. Then we will make a couple of test plates, mount real switches onto them and do another measurement against a real Filco keyboard.
All the above I expect would take 2 weeks to 3 weeks. Once everything is checked out and that we are confident with the design, we will close the group buy, collect money, and order all the parts. That will likely take another month or two from ordering, manufacturing, shipping, sorting, shipping to our 2 distributors, and then ship out to buyers.
I will update again when we have more info. Thanks.
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What about rest of the world distribution?
Is it possible to include a stabilizer set?
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I will have to check with BiNi and 7bit. I think BiNi shipped to overseas before.
Right now I think stabilizers would not be included as you can either reuse your Filco parts or source from somewhere else. I think in the original discussion thread it was mentioned there where to get stabilizers. We will dig that out and include the information in the first post.
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interesting... might be interested as a nice project, but would love to be able to get a nice case for this also... Those OTD cases I would love to get my hands on one of those... like the one in your pic above.
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I will have to check with BiNi and 7bit. I think BiNi shipped to overseas before.
Right now I think stabilizers would not be included as you can either reuse your Filco parts or source from somewhere else. I think in the original discussion thread it was mentioned there where to get stabilizers. We will dig that out and include the information in the first post.
I think we should figure out the shipping costs and ship from wherever it is cheaper.
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I think we should figure out the shipping costs and ship from wherever it is cheaper.
I say screw it: Standardize it by shipping everything from Antarctica.
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Is there going to be a case or some machined metal case? I would like that :/
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Can I use Cherry PCB-mounted stabilizers, or do I need to take them from a plate-mounted board?
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There will be no holes in the PCB to accommodate any PCB-mounted cherry parts.
Mouser have black (http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cherry-Electrical/MX1A-11NN/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYL5OkZyAAtGdS0DHVxOKMSk%3d), blue (http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cherry-Electrical/MX1A-E1NN/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYP6E%2fmwxcVTtdnZLPb2ifIE%3d), and clear (http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cherry-Electrical/MX1A-C1NN/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYJ6eFtqPPgccb%252bjiCeUmXbw%3d) plate mounted Cherry MX switches.
They also have some cherry stabilizers. These are the tricky parts. The 2X wide will of course work like a charm. They can also be used as donors for converting PCB mount stabilizers to plate mounted ones. So if you have the correct length PCB mounted stabilizers, ordering the same number of these will set you up with what you need.
For longer stabilizers the 8X wide ones will of course be longer than enough in most cases. The wire of these can be cut to any length needed. Plus you'll need another 2X stabilizer for the plate mounts. I know it is a mess, there might be a more convenient supplier for stabilizers.
For plate mount 2X wide keys (http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cherry-Electrical/0G990224/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtaJrRyqs1cXcT8rq5bTlxcElMcSl1qgVc%3d)
For PCB mount 8X wide keys (http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cherry-Electrical/0G99-0744/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtaJrRyqs1cXU73rNr8%2f4UJbaEGdYjex7Q%3d)
Costar stabilizers are harder to come by. Someone might want to look into if they are possible to get somewhere.
Mouser also have enough diodes (http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/1N4148TR/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtldOIVIVqa3batNSHs8hcMExjWv2MUrSg%3d) to supply everyone. They are next to free in large quantities. I say we might want to do a group buy for them if we are ordering anything else from Mouser.
PJRC have the Teensy (http://pjrc.com/store/teensy.html) controller boards. These would probably also preferably be group bought.
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From litster's post it seems he intends on the Teensy to be part of this GB.
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Maybe ask WASDkeyboards for parts, or whether he is willing to supply in bulk
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WASD can supply all the Costar stabilizer parts except for the black pieces that snap into the plate. I don't know where to get those :(
I'd be in for one with an ANSI plate, just to help this along.
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I am interested in this but too bad I have no knowledge or tools to solder all the parts together ;(
Any plans on a extra fee for putting it all together? Or am I better off trying to find and commission someone to do it?
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I am interested in this but too bad I have no knowledge or tools to solder all the parts together ;(
Any plans on a extra fee for putting it all together? Or am I better off trying to find and commission someone to do it?
This is also my problem.
I picked up one of those "learn to solder" kits from frys and started to work on that. I'm also interested in this project, and might join it since I figure I have all the time in the world to finish it and can go at my own speed
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I am interested in this but too bad I have no knowledge or tools to solder all the parts together ;(
Any plans on a extra fee for putting it all together? Or am I better off trying to find and commission someone to do it?
We will find a solution for that.
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We will find a solution for that.
I would be interested in this too if this is the case! I'm crazy about those key caps.
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I'm just curious, there was mention of diodes previously in the thread. I didn't follow the original thread perfectly (who could?) but was wondering if they are required for function of the keyboard, and if so, are they mounted in the switches as they are on old Cherry boards or elsewhere on the PCB? Finally, it doesn't matter to me, but if the diodes aren't mounted in the switches, are there traces for LED backlighting if someone wants to go down that road?
Answers to the above don't change my interest, I am just asking out of curiosity. Probably ought to write up an "instruction sheet" detailing all the things you can do with the board...
thanks!
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We will find a solution for that.
Then you got yourself a buyer ;D
Your user name: tsangan
Number of kits: 1
ANSI Plate: 1
Country: USA
contemplating if i want a 2nd but definitely in for 1
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I'm willing to do assembly... located in the NE US and I can post a pic of some SMD soldering I've done recently... not that this requires it but I do know what I'm doing :)
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This really is the easiest soldering job you'll find. Any old crummy soldering iron will get you through it if you try. Start with some diodes and switches, if they break it's not a big deal. There are a lot of diodes to fold though, I should know =P
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I would be interested in this too if this is the case! I'm crazy about those key caps.
This thread is only for the keyboard.
The keycaps are available in that other thread.
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I meant being able to use the key caps on the board :) Sorry.
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Cool, alaricljs can provide soldering service. I would recommend buyers to contact alaricljs directly. I would like to keep soldering service outside of the group buy. Thanks.
ps. I will update the thread with and order update later today when I have time.
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Hmm...maybe we should also send a pm to Filco and see if we can get some empty shells from them.
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Hmm...maybe we should also send a pm to Filco and see if we can get some empty shells from them.
We want ALUMINUM CASING!
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We would like to include it, but aluminum casing is outside the scope of this group buy. I think oneproduct has a thread going with aluminum casing for Filco PCB. Not sure if it would come to fruition though.
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Your user name: demik
Number of kits: 1
ANSI Plate: 1
Country: USA
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Order count added to the 3rd post. And plate cut layouts added to the 2nd post. Also updated the order information at the end of the fist post. I assume demik and tsangan want ANSI15 plate. Speak up if you are not. Thanks.
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yes, ANSI15.
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Your user name: mtl
PCB 1
ANSI15 0
ISO15 0
ANSI125 1
ISO125 0
TEENSY 1
Country: USA
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It's up to you whether to accept this one or not.... I'll deal with it either way :) Seeing as how your plate numbers will be skewed by different plates anyway, hopefully you'll approve.
alaricljs
PCB 0
ANSI15 0
ISO15 0
ANSI125 2
ISO125 0
TEENSY 0
Country: USA
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It's up to you whether to accept this one or not.... I'll deal with it either way :) Seeing as how you're plate numbers will be skewed by different plates anyway, hopefully you'll approve.
alaricljs
PCB 0
ANSI15 0
ISO15 0
ANSI125 2
ISO125 0
TEENSY 0
Country: USA
It will be fine. I will add it now.
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With the ANSI125 PCB you can't use every single Cherry Corp keys am I correct because the modifiers won't fit
And a super noob question with the ANSI15 PCB won't there be a hole in between of the ctrl and alt since the casing has room for it
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With the ANSI125 PCB you can't use every single Cherry Corp keys am I correct because the modifiers won't fit
And a super noob question with the ANSI15 PCB won't there be a hole in between of the ctrl and alt since the casing has room for it
Yes, with ANSI125 you can't use Cherry's 1.5x modifiers. There are very few Cherry keyboards with 1.25x double shot modifiers. However you can use keycaps from Group Buy 3 or 4 or your original Filco keycaps in this configuration. You can use either centered stem or off-set stem CapsLock because the PCB and mounting plate can accomodate either.
With ANSI15, you will need to put a 1x keycap and key switch on both sides between the Ctrl key and the Alt key. Maybe 7bit needs to add a special front row 1x key in his keycap group buy 4.
(http://ihatemyteeth.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/BigGap.jpg)
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Yes, with ANSI125 you can't use Cherry's 1.5x modifiers. There are very few Cherry keyboards with 1.25x double shot modifiers. However you can use keycaps from Group Buy 3 or 4 or your original Filco keycaps in this configuration. You can use either centered stem or off-set stem CapsLock because the PCB and mounting plate can accomodate either.
With ANSI15, you will need to put a 1x keycap and key switch on both sides between the Ctrl key and the Alt key. Maybe 7bit needs to add a special front row 1x key in his keycap group buy 4.
Oh awesome so with the ANSI15 I can use those awesome stepped caps + all the Cherry 1.5x modifiers and then I can technically have a 1x modifier in between the ctrl and alt
That is too awesome ;D
*wonder if anyone besides 7bit will get the 7bit's special lol that is one intense layout
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Oh awesome so with the ANSI15 I can use those awesome stepped caps + all the Cherry 1.5x modifiers and then I can technically have a 1x modifier in between the ctrl and alt
That is too awesome ;D
Yes, that was HaveANiceDay's original vision, just like Realforce 86U. You can program the Teensy controller to make the 2 keys whatever you want.
(http://i.imgur.com/e3nPd.jpg)
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Time to go find some awesome Cherry DS + RGB modifiers ;D
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i just want this so i can use the stepped caps lock key lol
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Your user name: slueth
PCB 2
ANSI15 1
ISO15 0
ANSI125 1
ISO125 0
TEENSY 0
Country: USA
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slueth, I got you on the order count post (3rd post). No Teensy for you?
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..
With ANSI15, you will need to put a 1x keycap and key switch on both sides between the Ctrl key and the Alt key. Maybe 7bit needs to add a special front row 1x key in his keycap group buy 4.
No need for that!
You can use cursor keys (to match colors) or any of ZXCVBNM instead.
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On the ANSI15 layout, I'm assuming that you need actual switches in the 1x positions in the bottom row, I'm assuming that it is possible to use, say, the left for the Super and right for Menu? Or does the plate not have cutouts for those switches at all? Still trying to decide which to go for...
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The plate has got the cutouts.
The point is only:
If you don't want to have switches there, there will be open gaps.
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makes sense, thanks. Still thinking :/
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makes sense, thanks. Still thinking :/
Take 2 Cherry DS sets from Ascaii and use the arrows. Big arrow for Shift, small arrows for Super or Meta or whatever you want.
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Take 2 Cherry DS sets from Ascaii and use the arrows. Big arrow for Shift, small arrows for Super or Meta or whatever you want.
Still waiting for both those and my moogle kits :/ just trying to decide which I want to use.
That, and I don't actually HAVE a Filco tenkeyless, but if I got one of those metal cases that are being kicked around... that would be *awesome* :roll: can you imagine old school doubleshots on a stainless steel case? and of course I'd give the plate a nice paint job before assembly (what, I don't know... Three layer metalflake/candy/clear? Have it powdercoated Bright Frickin' Red? Paint it beige to match the keycaps? Decisions, decisions...)
maybe this board I would do ergo clears just to be different? (but I (heart) my straight clears so much)
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Here is an idea. We should do a custom design Phantom logo for a front row 1x keys! We need a brand-recognizing logo!
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what's the chances of this fitting in other costar keyboard cases, CMstorm, for example.
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I have no idea. I don't have a CMstorm. If you have one, open it up and take a picture of the inside of the top and bottom halves, as well as the PCB.
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It should fit in the PLU ML87 and the CMStorm.
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Interested if assembly is done for me!
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Your user name: laden3
PCB 2
ANSI15 2
ISO15 0
ANSI125 0
ISO125 0
TEENSY 2
Country: USA
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I'm willing to do assembly... located in the NE US and I can post a pic of some SMD soldering I've done recently... not that this requires it but I do know what I'm doing :)
Interested if assembly is done for me!
KL, contact alaricljs directly. He is offering soldering service for group buyers.
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I added information to alaricljs's soldering service to the 1st post.
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Here is an idea. We should do a custom design Phantom logo for a front row 1x keys! We need a brand-recognizing logo!
We could easily do the Mask in keycap form; I assume you want it as a 1x size modifier like a RF?
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We could easily do the Mask in keycap form; I assume you want it as a 1x size modifier like a RF?
Yes! Yes!
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Yes! Yes!
I think that would cripple those who are not getting the PCB that does that form; I am all for doing a 1.25x AND 1x modifier set though; Light Gray on Dark Gray?
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PCB can do all kinds of configurations. It is the plate that need to be more specific.
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PCB can do all kinds of configurations. It is the plate that need to be more specific.
Alright, yea, I mistated that. The true question is how many people are going to stick with a 1.25x mod config over the 1.5/1x mod config. I think doing both styles would be better and that way people who do not have Cherry but just like the actual phantom mask logo can participate in a buy.
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Between Deskthority and GeekHack, we have 20 or so PCB orders now. 15 for 1.5x plates, 5 for 1.25x plates. Hopefully more orders will come in before we close the group buy.
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whats the eta for this group buy to be closed?
Also lister do you happen to know a good source to pick up the additional parts needed?
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Well Lit, if you really do want keycaps for the 1st row mod-styles just let me know. I would be interested in running that buy since those caps interest me even without me wanting a Phantom Keyboard.
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Your user name: laden3
PCB 2
ANSI15 2
ISO15 0
ANSI125 0
ISO125 0
TEENSY 2
Country: USA
You have 2 orders :peep:
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whats the eta for this group buy to be closed?
Also lister do you happen to know a good source to pick up the additional parts needed?
We don't know when we will close the group buy yet. We still have a few loose ends to tie down yet. But the design of the PCB and plates are 99% done. As for additional parts, if you mean switches a stabilizers, you can buy them from mouser. Not sure if we can get a swtich group buy at the moment.
Well Lit, if you really do want keycaps for the 1st row mod-styles just let me know. I would be interested in running that buy since those caps interest me even without me wanting a Phantom Keyboard.
If you could do that, that would be great. Let's hope there will be enough orders so the keycaps are not too expensive.
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You have 2 orders :peep:
I will add new orders to the list later today. Thanks.
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If you could do that, that would be great. Let's hope there will be enough orders so the keycaps are not too expensive.
If I could get the SVG for the Phantom mask I can start an interest check tonight; the only work left to do past that would be the Colors.
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I don't have the SVG for the phantom mask. Where could we get that? As for colors, I suppose most people will be either using black on white or white on black Cherry double shot keycaps. Maybe we could use the same colors as the last Moogle Kit group buy. Alternatively, we could choose a complete different color. Red could work for either white or black keys and could stand out.
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I don't have the SVG for the phantom mask. Where could we get that? As for colors, I suppose most people will be either using black on white or white on black Cherry double shot keycaps. Maybe we could use the same colors as the last Moogle Kit group buy. Alternatively, we could choose a complete different color. Red could work for either white or black keys and could stand out.
Well whoever made the original image may have the SVG; if not someone could make it from that image itself. Color wise it really comes down to opinion of how you want your modifiers to look. Red on Black modifiers are kind of awkward to me so black on white or white on black stand out as having the most opportunity to be popular.
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As a bit of sideness: I am nearly done extracting an SVG from the .png in the original header image. I should have a workable file in an hour or so.
Edit:
Done!
I removed the mask image from the original banner, put it through a set of steps, and came out with a .SVG that to me looks damn near perfect.
The Original
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30776[/ATTACH]
The Original Mask, Removed via Paint
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30775[/ATTACH]
A PNG made using the .SVG
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30777[/ATTACH]
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I have no idea. I don't have a CMstorm. If you have one, open it up and take a picture of the inside of the top and bottom halves, as well as the PCB.
I'll see if I can take it apart this weekend.
I also will then have an excuse to take all my review pictures off the phone.
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Very cool! Thanks for the help. Want to get a temperature from group buyers how many of you would want this custom Phantom key to go with your custom Phantom keyboard (2 1x keys per keyboard)?
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Very cool! Thanks for the help. Want to get a temperature from group buyers how many of you would want this custom Phantom key to go with your custom Phantom keyboard (2 1x keys per keyboard)?
Do you want to do 2 1x keys or a set of 2 1x and 2 1.25's?
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Right! we need both. Yes, 2 1x and 2 1.25x. Thanks.
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Right! we need both. Yes, 2 1x and 2 1.25x. Thanks.
Perfect; make it a set for Front Row and call it the Phantom Kit?
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Yes. That's cool.
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Here is an update.
Behind the scene, we are finishing up the design and closing a few decisions. As you know we maybe getting a custom keycap made for this special keyboard. It will likely a separate group buy. We are looking into if we could include switches in the group buy, or direct group buyers to mouser or digikey to get the switches directly from these vendors. We are going to do a round of virtual measurement check of the plate design against an actual Filco tenkeyless keyboard. We will likely print out the PCB on cardboard in 1:1 scale to more measurement checking. Then we will make a couple of test plates, mount real switches onto them and do another measurement against a real Filco keyboard.
All the above I expect would take 2 weeks to 3 weeks. Once everything is checked out and that we are confident with the design, we will close the group buy, collect money, and order all the parts. That will likely take another month or two from ordering, manufacturing, shipping, sorting, shipping to our 2 distributors, and then ship out to buyers.
I will update again when we have more info. Thanks.
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The order system is up!
But currently, you can only order via Deskthority.
All previous orders will be included automatically and you will receive a notification of what we've got in our system.
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All switches are numbered with regards to their position in the keyboard matrix. The diodes are as well. Every switch needs it own diode in series to stop ghosting and enabling more than 2KRO. The matrix is NKRO, existing firmware implementations are 6KRO (with other solutions enabling NKRO out there).
The LEDs needs resistors mounted in series. In general LEDs are not 5V and will die instantly if connected to it. There are also a great number of LEDs with built in resistors. When using them a simple jumper in place of the resistor will be used. (Jumpers are provided in hundreds from cutoff diode leads.) A maximum of 3 resistors will be needed depending on LED locations used.
Component placement should be quite obvious from these images. If not just ask. Silkscreen is more visible on a non-white background (the transparency of the image is a bit unfortunate), open the PNGs in a viewer where the background color can be chosen other than white.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30804[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30805[/ATTACH]
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In the new thread, there are four types of stabilizers for sale.. is there a chart or list to tell us which is which?
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OY!
I made test designs for each of the color options in the keys for yall to choose from! Also, I will be getting the keycap design submission email sent out today so I can get any word from Melissa as to whether or not it is doable.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30812[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30813[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30814[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30815[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]30816[/ATTACH]
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The order system is up!
But currently, you can only order via Deskthority.
All previous orders will be included automatically and you will receive a notification of what we've got in our system.
Phantom now takes orders!
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In the new thread, there are four types of stabilizers for sale.. is there a chart or list to tell us which is which?
STAB200 2 to 2.75 units keys
STAB400 4 units Tipro-space bar
STAB625 6.25 units Cherry space bar
STAB700 7 units Cherry space bar
STAB1000 10 units Cherry space bar
I will post measures. Maybe we need to offer more variants. Also, the prices are currently just guesses.
Please notes that with the 7BIT layout you never need to worry about stabilsers anymore!
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7bit - how real are those prices for switches? I understand that we'll end up ordering hundreds possibly even thousands of them... but the price is almost too good to believe.
Ok.. just re-read it... Do we seriously have a case available? What are the details?
Who's providing soldering at $200 ??
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We are still investigating where and how to get all the different switches we would need. Same thing for the case. On DT, Sixty suggested us to contact Costar about cases. I will ask him for contact info. As for the $200 soldering service, I think the price is just a place holder at the moment. And I think it is just for tracking purposes so we know if we need to ship the parts to you or Half-Saint for soldering. As I suggested before, group buyers need to deal with soldering service people directly. Thanks for adding a soldering service thread. I will add a link on the first post to your thread.
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What is MX dark blue plate mount switch?
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I read (I think on DT) that the new and old (from the 80s) MX blue switch have slightly different shades of blue. But I can't find that thread now.
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What is MX dark blue plate mount switch?
This is the latest switch. Ask Sixty, he knows all about it ...
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I added additional information on ordering on the 3rd post in this thread.
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I added additional information on ordering on the 3rd post in this thread.
Once again, order system works!
Just send your order to Phantom (http://geekhack.org/private.php?do=newpm&u=14604).
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I should have provided this information this morning, but 7bit's mail went to my junkmail box. Sorry.
7bit found a source who can provide us with Cherry MX switches of all colors. that is great news! We still need to source stabilizers though. But we are another step closer! I will update the available part list.
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I should have provided this information this morning, but 7bit's mail went to my junkmail box. Sorry.
7bit found a source who can provide us with Cherry MX switches of all colors. that is great news! We still need to source stabilizers though. But we are another step closer! I will update the available part list.
Worse comes to worse WASD sells the stabilizing bars.
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Thanks for the pointer, Colin. I started a new thread in the WASD forum to ask if he would help us get the full stabilizer part. Just the bar is not enough. We need the smaill white stabilizer tabs, as well as the two small pieces of plastic that are installed on the mounting plate. I hope he can help us out.
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Thanks for the pointer, Colin. I started a new thread in the WASD forum to ask if he would help us get the full stabilizer part. Just the bar is not enough. We need the smaill white stabilizer tabs, as well as the two small pieces of plastic that are installed on the mounting plate. I hope he can help us out.
The only part that you guys are seeking that is missing is the secondary-mounting stabilizer tab thingies. The white clip tabs are available at WASD.
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The only part that you guys are seeking that is missing is the secondary-mounting stabilizer tab thingies. The white clip tabs are available at WASD.
Ah, thanks!
Nevertheless, here comes the statistic:
CASE........1<-------- does currently not exist
MXBLACK...450
MXBROWN...150
MXCLEAR...300
MXRED......12
PH7BIT......6<-------- my plate-design
PHANSI.....12<--------normal plate design
PHANSIWIN...5<--------lame (==assymmetric bottom row) plate design
PHANTOM....24<----------This is the PCB!
PHISO.......2
PHISOWIN....1
SOLDERING...3
TEENSY.....15<---------- this is the controller
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Any info for the the MX dark blue, green and grey switch?
So what I've gather for them:
Green: click, Actuation Force 65cN, Peak Force 80cN, used for space bar in Cherry keyboards with blues
Light Grey (grey 39): tactile, Actuation Force 80cN, used for space bar in Cherry Corp keyboards with clears and browns
Dark Grey (grey 37): linear, Actuation Force 80cN, used for space bar in Cherry Corp keyboards with blacks
Dark Blue: Sixty's reports that its linear but that's all I could find.
Green and grey are some heavy switches ;(
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Are the ANSI winless kits with blue switches available?
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I am interested in this project but would definitely need a case. How is that coming along and what are we looking at as the prospective case?
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Are the ANSI winless kits with blue switches available?
Yes, you can just put together a kit.
PHANTOM 1
TEENSY 1
DIODE 100
MXBLUE 90
PHANSI 1
youremailaddress
send this to PHANTOM here on GH and that should do it.
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I am interested in this project but would definitely need a case. How is that coming along and what are we looking at as the prospective case?
No. No case is lined up. For status update, read 4th post in this thread.
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Another piece of news, WASD Keyboard will be getting stabilizer kits. Not sure of how many he would get though.
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No. No case is lined up. For status update, read 4th post in this thread.
is one still being looked into?
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is one still being looked into?
We are looking into a couple of leads. But I don't have high hope that they will pan out. What I do want is a transparent acrylic case so I can see the beauty of the PCB while it sits on my desk. Anyone know how to mold acrylic?
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The other thing that could be looked into is a metal case like the the ones used for the DOX build, that may get on the expensive side though.
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We are looking into a couple of leads. But I don't have high hope that they will pan out. What I do want is a transparent acrylic case so I can see the beauty of the PCB while it sits on my desk. Anyone know how to mold acrylic?
That would be pretty awesome, with all these metal cases out there as it is
Something like this http://tinyurl.com/3csrb86setup cost for the mold could be pretty expensive though
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What I do want is a transparent acrylic case so I can see the beauty of the PCB while it sits on my desk. Anyone know how to mold acrylic?
There are Asian guys who have made custom keyboard cases with a sandwich of acrylic sheets, screwed together. I think that pictures have been posted on this board, but if they have, I can't find them unfortunately ... I want to see them again too.
Acrylic is used a lot for store displays, etc. and there should be lots of companies that could cut the pieces for you to assemble. You could also order custom laser cut acrylic from http://www.ponoko.com.
To get smooth clear edges, acrylic needs to be cut either with a laser, or with a special blade and then polished.
Other types of plastics are used for making transparent casts. Polystyrene is the nicest, but requires injection molding machines. Epoxy, polyester and clear urethane can be cast at home, but getting a good result is tricky. You need a pressure pot and compressor to get the bubbles out, and you may need to make the "master" larger to account for shrinkage of the materials (both casting resin and molding silicone). It might not be worth it.
But ... wouldn't the PCB be concealed by the plate, anyway?
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We are looking into a couple of leads. But I don't have high hope that they will pan out. What I do want is a transparent acrylic case so I can see the beauty of the PCB while it sits on my desk. Anyone know how to mold acrylic?
You don't mold it, you cut it and then screw or glue together!
At least in Korea (where else).
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From that site you provided (they have some pretty awesome stuff)
But I don't think that have that part up and running yet
Upload your PCB designs, verify measurements and your faceplate design is displayed instantly. Customize size, material and color; personalize it with engraved text; then hit 'Make it'– all in your browser. Your custom faceplate will be made and shipped direct to you.
On the other hand http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/index.html looks really promising though, they have both aluminum and acrylic, don't have time atm to download the program to play with, gonna have to wait till later this week.
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Thanks for the pointers guys. If anyone could help to contribute a case design for the Phantom project with these shops or other shops, please PM me. Thanks.
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As for the case, if someone has a measurements and a design, my buddy has a CNC machine that is sitting idle. I can see how much for materials and operating costs. If someone just has the measurements, we can put together a design. He has AutoCAD.
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As for the case, if someone has a measurements and a design, my buddy has a CNC machine that is sitting idle. I can see how much for materials and operating costs. If someone just has the measurements, we can put together a design. He has AutoCAD.
This belongs to TheSoulhunter, it was done a little while back, I do not have a Filco on hand to confirm how accurate this is, would someone be able to do this?
http://soulhunters-crappy-website.com/misc/Filco_Board_v.02.pdf
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sent my order :D
no longer will we lust after the korean's being able to use full cherry corp doubleshots!
and hopefully their awesome cases too
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So who is programming the Amtel? Does the code exist yet? Are you planning to use C/C++ or Arduino Sketches?
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I looks close. I measured a few with a cheap ruler. There aren't any point of reference for the mounting.
We should work off the measurements on the PCB to be sure. Are those available?
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Sent my order a few hours ago. Can I get confirmation that it went through?
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I looks close. I measured a few with a cheap ruler. There aren't any point of reference for the mounting.
We should work off the measurements on the PCB to be sure. Are those available?
Gonna have to ask PrinsValium for those, he's in charge of the PCB and plate design
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Glad to see you all jumping in to help. The EU folks should be waking up in 4 to 5 hours to answer some of the questions :-)
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Oi, why nobody want keycaps?!!
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Glad to see you all jumping in to help. The EU folks should be waking up in 4 to 5 hours to answer some of the questions :-)
We want this keyboard to look awesome, we now know we can use all those awesome cherry keycaps just have to make sure the casing is perfect ;)
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PHANTOM.........23<------ PCB
PHANSICLEARKIT...1<------ complete kit
TEENSY..........15<------ controller
PH7BIT...........7<------ mount plate
PHANSI..........12<------ mount plate
PHANSIWIN........6<------ mount plate
PHISOWIN.........1<------ mount plate
DIODE..........490
MXBLACK........473
MXBLUE..........93
MXBROWN........153
MXCLEAR........398
MXDARKBLUE.......3
MXGREEN..........9
MXGREY...........3
MXRED..........195
STAB200..........6
STAB700..........3
CASE.............4
PHANTOMFUN.......1<------ function key with Phantom logo on it
SOLDERING........3<------ soldering service
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I just realized that I forgot to include my email address in my order message.
It's:
razgriz.35@gmail.com
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I just realized that I forgot to include my email address in my order message.
It's:
razgriz.35@gmail.com (razgriz.35@gmail.com)
Did you submit your order by sending a PM to PHANTOM?
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=443853&viewfull=1#post443853
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Yes, I did. I'll just copy and paste the order message here so you can match it up with mine.
---Quote (Originally by NumberJ)---
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHANSI 1
MXGREEN 1
DIODE 90
STAB200 4
STAB700 1
PHANTOMFUN 1
---End Quote---
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Cool. Thank you.
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Very cool! Thanks for the help. Want to get a temperature from group buyers how many of you would want this custom Phantom key to go with your custom Phantom keyboard (2 1x keys per keyboard)?
Looking at the PCB, I sense a very good chance it'll work with the CMstorm. I'll post pictures when I figure out how to get them off my phone. Also, if it looks close, I'll take it apart again and measure it.
As a result, my interest in this as high. :p
Also, Forget buying a filco for the case, I'm going to carve up some PMMA and bolt that together :p
Or weld feet onto the plate for a super-minimalist look.
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Also, Forget buying a filco for the case, I'm going to carve up some PMMA and bolt that together :p
How soon will you have a mock-up done with PMMA? We could include it in the Phantom group buy if you don't mind sharing your design.
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Hi guys, I'm really glad that you took this project and continued it.
Here is the original SVG if you want to make a key out of it. PrinsValium said you may be interested in it.
Now excuse me, I have to order me some Phantom :o
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Hi guys, I'm really glad that you took this project and continued it.
Here is the original SVG if you want to make a key out of it. PrinsValium said you may be interested in it.
Now excuse me, I have to order me some Phantom :o
I beat you to it :O
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31103[/ATTACH]
We are already trying to make keys out of it but interest is a little low; I have to go back and restructure the kits to be two separate modifier sets. Sent in the design approvals on Friday as well and am waiting to hear back from Melissa to see if they are doubleshotable.
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HaveANiceDay! You are back! Hope everything is going well with you. I hope we are doing your vision justice!
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All's cool man, I have to stay away from this place because it's too much fun and I don't have time for that.
I could not be happier how all this is going forward, thanks again to all the people involved.
@RColinTaylor
Good job, sorry you had to do it while the file just sat on my HDD :)
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@RColinTaylor
Good job, sorry you had to do it while the file just sat on my HDD :)
It was a good learning experience. I had never made an SVG let alone extracted it from a larger image.
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How soon will you have a mock-up done with PMMA? We could include it in the Phantom group buy if you don't mind sharing your design.
Probably 6 months. I'm really too busy.
But it's in the back of my mind, I'm thinking about how I'm going to design/build it.
Also, I'll probably cheap out, and file it out by hand.
Another thing I thought of (inspired by DOX) was to have a longer plate, just bent at the front and back, and again, to make little "feet" that way you can see the PCB on the side. It'd be a really lightweight and minimalistic keyboard (with the tops of the keyswitches showing) It'd be super easy to clean as well.
Just a thought.
Also, I reviewed the Shots I have of the CMstorm, and they look exactly perfect, except reversed :p Like I said, I'll measure it to make sure, though. If it add's up, I'll order yay!
It's clearly the best time to try clears. I was going to have to get a leopold, but now I will have something better!
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All's cool man, I have to stay away from this place because it's too much fun and I don't have time for that.
I could not be happier how all this is going forward, thanks again to all the people involved.
@RColinTaylor
Good job, sorry you had to do it while the file just sat on my HDD :)
Great to see you are back and thanks for starting this!
Here is the latest update:
PHANTOM.........30
PHANSICLEARKIT...1
TEENSY..........21
PH7BIT...........7
PHANSI..........17
PHANSIWIN........6
PHISO............1
PHISOWIN.........2
DIODE..........790
MXBLACK........473
MXBLUE..........93
MXBROWN........153
MXCLEAR........398
MXDARKBLUE.......3
MXGREEN.........12
MXGREY...........6
MXRED..........295
STAB200.........14
STAB700..........5
CASE.............6
PHANTOMFUN.......1
SOLDERING........4
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Great to see you are back and thanks for starting this!
Here is the latest update:
Is there going to be a deadline to motivate people like me?
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Is there going to be a deadline to motivate people like me?
I want to close this soonish. We had a final visual check with all the designs on computer. Next step is to validate with an actual prototype. Once that is done, we will close, collect money, and order parts.
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Are we suppose to get an email once we put in our order?
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Yes, except we don't have email address for a few of you, demik included. I am about to send PM to those people to ask for their address.
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Really? I know I put it in the message to phanthom. Want me to resend my order or do you just need my email ? I ordered some blue switches and diodes also along with pcb, teensy, ANSI15 plate.
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yes, please send a PM to PHANTOM with your email address. Thanks.
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Here is the latest statistic:
PHANTOM.........31
PHANSICLEARKIT...1
TEENSY..........22
PH7BIT...........7
PHANSI..........18
PHANSIWIN........6
PHISO............1
PHISOWIN.........2
DIODE..........790
MXBLACK........473
MXBLUE..........93
MXBROWN........153
MXCLEAR........398
MXDARKBLUE.......3
MXGREEN.........12
MXGREY...........6
MXRED..........295
STAB200.........18
STAB700..........6
CASE.............6
PHANTOMFUN.......1
SOLDERING........4
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Where are we getting the cherry darkblue from? Is there any other information on it other than sixty's one post and that one picture?
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Where are we getting the cherry darkblue from? Is there any other information on it other than sixty's one post and that one picture?
More discussion here: http://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1411&start=121
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Okay, thanks litster.
I think they're probably the "similar to normal MX blue" as opposed to the "20-year-old" style.
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no click and more like clears?
no thanks! i like my blues clicky
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Which stabilizers do I need? Can someone with more knowledge shed some light on this?
Mainly only the spacebar needs it right? or do other keys like shift, enter, backspace needs it too?
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You would need stabilizers for all the wide keys: Back Space, Enter, Left Shift, Right Shift, and spacebar. If you want to use 1.5x modifiers from Cherry, you would need a 7x wide spacebar and stabilizer. If you want to use 1.25x modifiers like Filco's configuration, you would need a 6.25x spacebar and stabilizer. Hum, someone please dobule-check that I am correct with the statements above... :-)
Right now we don't have a source to order costar stabilizers. plate-mount Cherry stabilizers are available from Mouser.
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I plan to use 1.5x modifiers from cherry so I need 7x wide stabilizer for the spacebar how about the other 4 keys all 1.5x stabilizers?
Does that sound right?
What are costar stabilizers?
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What are costar stabilizers?
They are the wire ones that are in Filco, WASD, CMstorm, etc.
Like this:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts-1.html
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I plan to use 1.5x modifiers from cherry so I need 7x wide stabilizer for the spacebar how about the other 4 keys all 1.5x stabilizers?
Does that sound right?
What are costar stabilizers?
There are no stabilizers for 1.5X keys, only 2X and wider. Cherry (and Costar) stabilizers are the same for 2X (backspace, ISO enter) 2.25X (ANSI enter, ANSI left shift) 2.75X (ANSI and ISO right shift) There are different stabilizer widths for both 7X and 6.25X spacebars. See these images from the key reference wiki (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Key+Reference+-+Pics+and+specifications+for+various+manufacturers+keys)
http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21762&d=1311287150
http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21629&d=1311214560
http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16275&d=1300727496
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PrinsValium, you are up already! Good morning. Hum, I think 7bit needs to change the stabilizer order codes. We have currently on 2x and 4x stabilizers listed and the spacebar ones.
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PrinsValium, you are up already! Good morning. Hum, I think 7bit needs to change the stabilizer order codes. We have currently on 2x and 4x stabilizers listed and the spacebar ones.
In my pricelist, I've got 2, 4, 6.25, 7 and 10 units. This should be enough!.
Here is the latest list:
PHANTOM..........36
PHANSICLEARKIT....1
37 for now. If we'd order today, we should get 40 at least!
TEENSY...........26
PH7BIT............7
PHANSI...........18
PHANSIWIN.........8
PHISO.............1
PHISOWIN..........4
DIODE..........1490
MXBLACK.........565
MXBLUE...........93
MXBROWN.........153
MXCLEAR.........668
MXDARKBLUE........3
MXGREEN..........14
MXGREY............8
MXRED...........485
STAB200..........32
STAB625...........2
STAB700...........8
CASE..............6
PHANTOMFUN........3
SOLDERING.........4
We are still a bit off with the switches, but this should not stop us.
:-)
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Hmmm, could use a board with short left shift + <> key (from ISO) and long enter key + |\ key (from ANSI), but I suspect there might not be much interest in this.
And finding french Cherry DS keys is a pain...
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PrinsValium, you are up already! Good morning. Hum, I think 7bit needs to change the stabilizer order codes. We have currently on 2x and 4x stabilizers listed and the spacebar ones.
Early? I've got this stupid PCB design to finish, no time for sleeping... Just kidding, everything is under control =D The cats and my flat mate were having breakfast, and my stomach was growling for food. Probably should have gone back to bed after that..
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Hmmm, could use a board with short left shift + <> key (from ISO) and long enter key + |\ key (from ANSI), but I suspect there might not be much interest in this.
I actually thought about this yesterday. So I'm definitely interested.
My thoughts also went in the other direction, ANSI left shift with ISO enter. That would also be interesting.
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Got a red keyboard coming in, gonna have to try it before I decide on blue or red switches!
Any due date for ordering yet? I know it's soon but how soon!
So i need 1 7x (Cherry Space Bar) and 4 2x stabilizers (ANSI enter, backspace, ANSI left shift, ANSI right shift)
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Got a red keyboard coming in, gonna have to try it before I decide on blue or red switches!
Any due date for ordering yet? I know it's soon but how soon!
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Got a red keyboard coming in, gonna have to try it before I decide on blue or red switches!
Any due date for ordering yet? I know it's soon but how soon!
So i need 1 7x (Cherry Space Bar) and 4 2x stabilizers (ANSI enter, backspace, ANSI left shift, ANSI right shift)
You've got 40 minutes left!
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You've got 40 minutes left!
Don't scare me like that 7bit!
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You have 127 minutes. With 7 bits, he can only count up to 127! LOL!
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I am confused on which STAB I should buy. whats the difference between the 200 and the 700, sorry if i missed where it was differentiated.
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I am confused on which STAB I should buy. whats the difference between the 200 and the 700, sorry if i missed where it was differentiated.
From what I gathered from lister and PrinsValium you need
STAB700 if you're using a cherry corp space bar
STAB625 if you're using a filco/leopold space bar
STAB200 for backspace, ISO enter, ANSI enter, ANSI left shift, ANSI and ISO right shift
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I am confused on which STAB I should buy. whats the difference between the 200 and the 700, sorry if i missed where it was differentiated.
Get the 7BIT layout and never ever worry about stabilisers again!
The advantages:
- No stabilisers necessary.
- Key caps can be removed without to fear ripping out the stabilisers.
- All key positions can be covered in the correct size with sphericals, without leaving dangerous gaps between keys!
- You get 99 keys instead of only 86 somethin'.
- You don't have a rediculously large anachronistic space bar, just a modern 1.5 units space bar at the position of your choice!
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/e/ea/Phantom_7BIT_001.png)
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I am confused on which STAB I should buy. whats the difference between the 200 and the 700, sorry if i missed where it was differentiated.
Assuming you're getting an ANSI kit:
The 200s should fit the long ANSI keys (backspace, enter, both shifts), so you would need 4.
Depending on what space bar you want to use, you would get either the 700 or the 625. The 700 is the right size for the longer Cherry Corp. spacebars that go with the 1.5 modifiers, and (I think) that the 625 matches up with the spacebars that go along with the modern 1.25 sized modifiers.
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I almost got the 7bit layout. The only reason I don't like it is hat I don't think it'd be too easy to find keys for it if I don't want those weird modifiers. Super? hyper? meta? Alt? control? there's too many!
Though on the plus side, I'd never be out of easy to reach macro keys.
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I almost got the 7bit layout. The only reason I don't like it is hat I don't think it'd be too easy to find keys for it if I don't want those weird modifiers. Super? hyper? meta? Alt? control? there's too many!
Though on the plus side, I'd never be out of easy to reach macro keys.
All of those modifiers exist in 7bit's modifier packs.
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Keep the orders coming! You know you want one!
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Keep the orders coming! You know you want one!
Give me a realistic estimate, if I were to have someone else put it together for me, of the price of doing a full Phantom. Math is not my strong suite.
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I think we have enough order to get it lower than the original forecast of $350-$400. I hope it will eventually be closer to $200 + labor if you need someone else to put it together for you (without a case). Contact alaricljs for assembly service: http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23632-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Assembly-Service
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Hmmm okay; I will have to mull over this whole mega-cost thing for awhile to see if I can trick myself into blowing such a large amount on a kit-keyboard.
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All of those modifiers exist in 7bit's modifier packs.
But I don't want super/meta/hyper/uber/etc modifiers!
Ugh, I'm getting a set of sphericals anyway. Might as well go all out, add 10 more switces to my order, change the plate, and add the modifiers to 7bit's GB.
Maybe I'll do it later, If I remember.
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I am defintly interested in 7bits layout but I have a few questions though. First, where would I find keycaps to fit all of the keys. Second, where would I find a case that would actually fit this layout? I know I can program the controller to do what ever i want but is there more in depth info on 7bit's layout?
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7bit's layout is just additional keys/switches in the bottom row. Since the outer edge of that area is unchanged from the original Filco design this will still fit in all the cases the other plates will fit.
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What's the deal with the dark blue switches?
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What's the deal with the dark blue switches?
Apparently they're new or something (I brought it up earlier). no-one knows much for sure. (Except maybe Sixty)
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Hmmm, could use a board with short left shift + <> key (from ISO) and long enter key + |\ key (from ANSI), but I suspect there might not be much interest in this.
And finding french Cherry DS keys is a pain...
Should be no problem. Get the ANSI version. In the horizontal direction it should be possible to have the key cutout a wbit wider to make it suitable for both versions of left Shift.
I almost got the 7bit layout. The only reason I don't like it is hat I don't think it'd be too easy to find keys for it if I don't want those weird modifiers. Super? hyper? meta? Alt? control? there's too many!
Though on the plus side, I'd never be out of easy to reach macro keys.
In every style of Round 4 you will get the keys you need! You can use those sqare, circle etc. keys if you don't like SUPER, HYPER, META etc.
I am defintly interested in 7bits layout but I have a few questions though. First, where would I find keycaps to fit all of the keys. Second, where would I find a case that would actually fit this layout? I know I can program the controller to do what ever i want but is there more in depth info on 7bit's layout?
Again, Double shot replacements Round 4!
If you need extra keys, just ask!
The case: I will put it on a backplate and maybe cover the sides with wood. It does not require some top-cover, becuase there are only a few gaps between the keys.
On the other hand, if we can get a case for the normal version, you can cut away the section above the cursor T.
The controllers will be programmed such that all keys deliver useful keycodes.
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/e/ea/Phantom_7BIT_001.png)
What's the deal with the dark blue switches?
They did only exist in my fantasy!
There exist dark blue switches, but these are quite ancient and no longer in production.
The dark blue ones ... (http://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1411&start=119)
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So it sounds like you won't be able to source the dark blue switches, right?
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No, there will not be dark blue switches for spacebar switches. Others colors should be available.
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In every style of Round 4 you will get the keys you need! You can use those sqare, circle etc. keys if you don't like SUPER, HYPER, META etc.
I thought the tenkeyless kit didn't come with any? I notice the standard one does, though.
Just in case, I added some spherical keys, and changed my order to a 7bit layout. I'm planning on setting it on an acrylic base, maybe with LED's. I don't think there'll be a top cover, as I rather like the look without, and there won't be much space to cover at all.
Heh, maybe I'll forgo the arrow keys, and add a ten-key to the side, there's enough space for one, and I can always use numlock to really use the arrow keys if I need.
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Alright screw the other layouts, I'm going with 7bit's
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I thought the tenkeyless kit didn't come with any? I notice the standard one does, though.
Just in case, I added some spherical keys, and changed my order to a 7bit layout. I'm planning on setting it on an acrylic base, maybe with LED's. I don't think there'll be a top cover, as I rather like the look without, and there won't be much space to cover at all.
Heh, maybe I'll forgo the arrow keys, and add a ten-key to the side, there's enough space for one, and I can always use numlock to really use the arrow keys if I need.
Thanks a lot!
I added 2x circle and 2x diamond to the TENKLESS kits.
Alright screw the other layouts, I'm going with 7bit's
That's the right spirit!
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I haven't been following this. If you just want to build a Filco clone what do you order to get ALL the parts?
Lol - this 7bit layout is wild!
(Attachment) 31506[/ATTACH]
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHANSIWIN 1 (this is exactly the same format as the Filco)
Diodes 100
+
Switches of your choice if you need any
Stabilizers if you want any
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Hi Ripster! Thought you'd never show up here!
For a Filco clone, you need:
- Phantom PCB
- ANSIWIN mounting plate (uses 1.25x modifiers on the front row)
- a Teensy controller
- 4 2x stabilizers
- 1 6.25x stabilizer for spacebar
- 87 cherry switches
- as many diodes as you have switches + a few backups just in case, they are super cheap
Send a PM to PHANTOM here on GH with this message body:
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHANSIWIN 1
DIODE 100
MXBLUE 90
STAB200
STAB625
ripster@ripster.com
7bit has a Phantom ANSIWIN order code with stabilizers. I can't find it at the moment. But the list above is the same as ordering the full kit.
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Hi Ripster! Thought you'd never show up here!
...
7bit has a Phantom ANSIWIN order code with stabilizers. I can't find it at the moment. But the list above is the same as ordering the full kit.
You need one of these:
PHISOREDKIT | 1| 125|-1|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX red with stabs
PHISOCLEARKIT | 1| 125|-1|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX clear with stabs
PHISOBLACKKIT | 1| 125|-1|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX black with stabs
PHANSIREDKIT | 1| 125|-1|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX red with stabs
PHANSICLEARKIT | 1| 125|-1|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX clear with stabs<--- recommended
PHANSIBLACKKIT | 1| 125|-1|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX black with stabs
The latest statistics:
PHANTOM..........38
PHANSICLEARKIT....1
TEENSY...........29
PH7BIT...........11<------yeah! I'm ahead of those lame ISO layouts!
PHANSI...........18
PHANSIWIN.........7
PHISO.............1
PHISOWIN..........4
DIODE..........1690
MXBLACK.........566<---- MOQ is 1600 maybe some people buy some more!
MXBLUE...........93<---- LOL!
MXBROWN.........253
MXCLEAR.........778<---- MOQ is 1600 maybe some people buy some more!
MXGREEN..........15<---- Maybe Mouser can help out with these
MXGREY............9<---- Maybe Mouser can help out with these
MXRED...........495<---- MOQ is still 1600 per switch type!
STAB200..........32<---- who needs stabilisers nowadays?
STAB625...........2<---- who needs stabilisers nowadays?
STAB700...........8<---- who needs stabilisers nowadays?
CASE..............6
PHANTOMFUN........5<--- few key caps, buy more in Round 4
SOLDERING.........4
I recommend to set a deadline.
This might help to bring the quantities up!
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I recommend to set a deadline.
This might help to bring the quantities up!
You've changed, man.
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You've changed, man.
LOL! And I also LOL every time I see the code 'PHANSI'. I say 'FANCY' in my head!
For an update, BiNiaRiS is going to make 2 prototype mounting plates as soon as he receive seed money from the 3 of us. Once the plate is made and checked, we will be ordering 2 PCBs so I can build a prototype Phantom to confirm everything is working before we order all the parts.
As for not getting enough switches for group buy, 7bit, do you want to start a dedicated Cherry switch group buy so we can combine all the switch orders to get to MOQ?
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If I get the 7Bit layout could I make all of the F keys available is I put switches in each spot? I was thinking a bit of a different layout since the Teensy can be programmed.
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yes, you can do that. the Teeny source code will be available to everyone for customization.
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Can you guys ship to China or Taiwan? I have some friends who are interested in these.
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How do I change something on my order? I ordered 1 PH7BIT and 1 PHANSI but I think now I want 2 PH7BIT's.
thanks.
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Can you guys ship to China or Taiwan? I have some friends who are interested in these.
Currently no. If you are in the US or EU, you can buy for them and we ship to you, then you ship to your friends.
How do I change something on my order? I ordered 1 PH7BIT and 1 PHANSI but I think now I want 2 PH7BIT's.
thanks.
you can send in these:
PH7BIT 2
PHANSI 0
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We are still a bit off with the switches, but this should not stop us.
What quantity of each switch is necessary to get the 60˘ price?
-
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/parametricsearch/electromechanical_switches_switch-key.html?man=cherry%20electrical
This place seems to have switches also at a pretty decent price, but not as many choices
-
I think minimum order is 1,600 switches for each color.
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I think minimum order is 1,600 switches for each color.
Ah, thanks, I missed that in the report. I guess I'll put myself down for brown to encourage others, and switch to clear if necessary.
-
Questions:
1) Why are the diodes necessary, I thought Teensey could make any board NKRO?
2) Could you include LEDS as an option to order? (I know this would require additional power such as another USB connector, but just checking if too late)
3) Is it too late to have special plate to pcb stability legs, as seen in Leopolds (I will post a pic to clarify what I mean). They make it much easier to mount the switches, and give the board much more strength. I believe Leos have 8 of these, but you could choose how many you wanted on this.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31622[/ATTACH]
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Only 2 LEDs are needed. I don't think power is an issue. The PCB is already designed to take the capslock and scroll lock LEDs at the same locations as Filco. They shouldn't be too expensive. We will check to see if we can just include it in the diode order code.
I have not seen the inside of a Leo, so I don't know what you mean about stability legs. My guess is that all the switches mounted on the plate and soldered to the PCB should be enough.
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Is the PHISOREDKIT is the same as
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHISO 1
MXRED 87
How wrong am I. What if I would like to have PHISOWIN could I get it as a kit (PHISOWINREDKIT)? also that doesn't include any diodes?
So my order might be something like this:
PHISOWINREDKIT 1
PHISOWINCLEARKIT 1
MXBROWN 100
STAB200 6
stab625 2
DIODE 200
CASE 2
Oh the price already hurts my wallet :Cry:
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Currently no. If you are in the US or EU, you can buy for them and we ship to you, then you ship to your friends.
You don't ship to rest of the world?
I just placed an order last week. Or should I wait and see?
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Is the PHISOREDKIT is the same as
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHISO 1
MXRED 87
How wrong am I. What if I would like to have PHISOWIN could I get it as a kit (PHISOWINREDKIT)? also that doesn't include any diodes?
So my order might be something like this:
PHISOWINREDKIT 1
PHISOWINCLEARKIT 1
MXBROWN 100
STAB200 6
stab625 2
DIODE 200
CASE 2
Oh the price already hurts my wallet :Cry:
It comes with all you need including the diodes.
There will be some extra switches in the kit as well.
-
You don't ship to rest of the world?
I just placed an order last week. Or should I wait and see?
Sure we ship to all places of the world.
-
Changed my order to the 7bit layout.
-
changed my order to the 7bit layout.
:-)
phansi...........17
ph7bit...........12
phansiwin.........7
phisowin..........5
phiso.............1
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Changed my order to the 7bit layout.
[size=12]:-)
[/size]
gfdghfjksdg
PHANSI...........17
PH7BIT...........12
PHANSIWIN.........7
PHISOWIN..........5
PHISO.............1
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Our orders is piling up! I am not surprised with most buyers choosing PHANSI. But it is good to see that 7bit's special has attracted so many more buyers than The other layouts. I thought ISO layouts would account for more.
-
The 7bit layout allows you to choose your layout and change it at any time, which is why I am guessing most people want it.
I meant LEDS for making a backlit board, not just for locklights, but I am guessing based on your response, backlighting would not be possible?
Will there be a kit for 7bit plate? The kits seem to give significant savings.
Thanks.
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7bit's layout is very flexible. You can change it at any time, except you can't go back to long space bar because there is no cut out for stabilizers.
The PCB is not designed for backlit. So no for backlit keyboard :(.
Kit or no kit, the price will be the same. Prices listed now are temporary. The kits are just made for easy ordering if you want everything bundled.
-
I came up with a layout for the 7bit that I think would work well http://tinyurl.com/dxonvdo . I still have some open keys so suggestions are welcome in that thread.
Is there a kit for 7bit layout with clear switches? Also I couldnt find anything in this thread as to what exactly is in a kit so I know what I have to buy separately.
-
7bit's layout is very flexible. You can change it at any time, except you can't go back to long space bar because there is no cut out for stabilizers.
The PCB is not designed for backlit. So no for backlit keyboard :(.
Kit or no kit, the price will be the same. Prices listed now are temporary. The kits are just made for easy ordering if you want everything bundled.
Couldn't you just put the stabilizers in one of the slots for the extra keys?
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Couldn't you just put the stabilizers in one of the slots for the extra keys?
You can put a couple switches there to hold the spacebar, if the holes match the spacebar stem posts. I could be wrong, but as far as I can tell you can't put a stabilizer there. There is nothing to hold the stabilizer metal bar.
-
I came up with a layout for the 7bit that I think would work well http://tinyurl.com/dxonvdo . I still have some open keys so suggestions are welcome in that thread.
Is there a kit for 7bit layout with clear switches? Also I couldnt find anything in this thread as to what exactly is in a kit so I know what I have to buy separately.
Sorry, I actually don't know what is in a kit, LOL! I guess we should know what's in it before 7bit put that on the list. :-)
I would imagine a kit should include the following:
- 1 PCB
- 1 mounting plate
- 1 Teensy
- 87 switches please a few backup
- 100 diodes
- 2 LEDs
- enough stabilizers to match the mounting plate layout
We are sure that we can get PCB, mounting plate, Teensy, and diodes.
Open issues:
- We are waiting for quote for cherry switches. It is unclear if we make minimum order requirement (1,600 switches per-order). If not, we would have to remove switches from the list. Used Cherry switches can be sourced from used Cherry keyboards
- We still don't have source for stabilizers. If we can find new ones, we will have to instruct buyers to source them from old Cherry keyboards
- LEDs are cheap enough to buy. We should be able to include them. But it is getting more painful if everyone wants different colors :-). Maybe we will just include 2 LEDs for each color for each kit (red, blue, green, orange)
Again, there is no discount from ordering a kit. So ordering them separately would be a fine thing to do. If you are not sure what you need, post here and I will help.
-
Gah... i was planning on using the 7bit layout to have the extra keys on the right side and still keep the longer spacebar. If it's not compatible with a long spacebar at all, I'll probably have to go back to ANSI.
-
Maybe I missed it, but do we have details on the case that's being offered in the group buy? I haven't pulled the trigger on this yet, but I'd love a case that's compatible with the full 7bit layout that has the combined arrow and home clusters.
-
Maybe I missed it, but do we have details on the case that's being offered in the group buy? I haven't pulled the trigger on this yet, but I'd love a case that's compatible with the full 7bit layout that has the combined arrow and home clusters.
You totally missed it. :-) It is just 2 posts up from your last post: http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=450691&viewfull=1#post450691
We are not very organized here. So no worries. We don't have a case lined up. It is also unlikely that we will.
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You totally missed it. :-) It is just 2 posts up from your last post: http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=450691&viewfull=1#post450691
We are not very organized here. So no worries. We don't have a case lined up. It is also unlikely that we will.
If we can get a 3D render of the filco case in autoCAD we got a company that can do it in Washington.
I know a company in Washington that does plastic(http://www.tapplastics.com/) They said if we had a 3d rendering of it in like autocad we could maybe do it for the phantom.
-
Yes, but the problem is we don't have a 3D render of a keyboard case design. Do we have a CAD engineer in the house on Geekhack?
-
Do I need any stabilisers for 7bit's layout?
(Thanks 7bit: Lovin' the layout)
-
Yes, but the problem is we don't have a 3D render of a keyboard case design. Do we have a CAD engineer in the house on Geekhack?
I sort-of do a little here at the university(I'll have to reinstall the program, though) I'm at. I have a couple friends who do CAD for run, who I can ask... Can you post/PM to me the PCB hole dimensions and spacing/location of them?
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Do I need any stabilisers for 7bit's layout?
(Thanks 7bit: Lovin' the layout)
No, you don't need stabilizers if you use 7bit's layout. Actually you can't have stabilizers :-)
I sort-of do a little here at the university(I'll have to reinstall the program, though) I'm at. I have a couple friends who do CAD for run, who I can ask... Can you post/PM to me the PCB hole dimensions and spacing/location of them?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]31765[/ATTACH]
I think this is from soulfree, I am not sure. The outside is actually not as important as the inside. It would be best if you have a Filco tenkeyless keyboard and can open it up to take measurements. The Phantom PCB/mounting plate is the same size as the Filco.
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D: I didn't realize that normal sized spacebars weren't compatible at all with the 7bit plate, so I had to change my order back again. Sorry.
-
You totally missed it. :-) It is just 2 posts up from your last post: http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=450691&viewfull=1#post450691
We are not very organized here. So no worries. We don't have a case lined up. It is also unlikely that we will.
No case, but what about a backplate, a cover plate (for ANSI and ISO, not very usefull for 7BIT layout;-) and some screws to put them together?
Both plates can be made the same way as the mount plate. Just with holes for mounting them together and to put some feet underneath.
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No case, but what about a backplate, a cover plate (for ANSI and ISO, not very usefull for 7BIT layout;-) and some screws to put them together?
Both plates can be made the same way as the mount plate. Just with holes for mounting them together and to put some feet underneath.
Hmm... so does anyone have any particular plans in terms of cases for the fancy 7bit boards?
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Hmm... so does anyone have any particular plans in terms of cases for the fancy 7bit boards?
I am interested in that as well as weather I order or not depends on if I can get a case for it. Even if it was something like the DOX's case I wouldnt be opposed.
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Hmm... so does anyone have any particular plans in terms of cases for the fancy 7bit boards?
I'm looking into making a layer of acrylic for the case. I will, of course, embed some white LED's (with a switch) and have the capslock, etc LED's shine into the acrylic in red.
If I can do all that, It'd look sweet.
Litster, the CMstorm I have is the same except for one of the mounting posts, so I can measure out of there, but I'll see what I can do about what you sent me. We may have to do a seperate case GB. What sort of timeframe do we have here?
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Hopefully we will have the first mounting plate done and close the PCB design next week. After that we will want to do a prototype PCB and build a working keyboard to confirm everything fits together. With at least 2 to 3 weeks of lead time for PCB manufacturing + another week of shipping, I think we are at least 5 weeks away from collecting payments.
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gfdsgfdsg fsdg
PHANTOM..........43
TEENSY...........32
PH7BIT...........11
PHANSI...........18
PHANSIWIN.........8
PHISO.............1
PHISOWIN..........5
DIODE..........2386
MXBLACK.........566
MXBLUE..........183
MXBROWN.........753
MXCLEAR.........874
MXGREEN..........20
MXGREY...........14
MXRED...........710
STAB200..........45
STAB400...........5
STAB625...........3
STAB700..........10
PHANTOMFUN........7
SOLDERING.........4
TEENSY | 18|Teensy controller
PHANTOM | 28|Phantom PCB
PHANSI | 35|mount plate ANSI
PHANSIWIN | 35|mount plate ANSI with WIN keys
PHISO | 35|mount plate ISO
PHISOWIN | 35|mount plate ISO with WIN keys
PH7BIT | 35|mount plate 7BIT
MXRED | 0.6|MX red plate mount switch
MXBLUE | 0.6|MX blue plate mount switch
MXBROWN | 0.6|MX brown plate mount switch
MXCLEAR | 0.6|MX clear plate mount switch
MXBLACK | 0.6|MX clear plate mount switch
MXGREY | 2|MX grey plate mount switch
MXGREEN | 2|MX green plate mount switch
DIODE | 0.02|n-key rollover diode
LED | 1|phantom LED
LEDRED | 1|red LED (no resistor req.)
LEDGREEN | 1|green LED (no resistor req.)
LEDYELLOW | 1|yellow LED (no resistor req.)
LEDBLUE | 1|blue LED (including resistor)
LEDORANGE | 1|orange LED (including resistor)
LEDWHITE | 1|white LED (including resistor)
STAB200 | 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
STAB400 | 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
STAB625 | 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
STAB700 | 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
STAB1000 | 2|MX plate mount stabiliser
CASE | 60|? case for tenkeyless (might not be available)
BACKPLATE | 35|backplate
BACKSCREWS | 5|screws for backplate
COVERPLATE | 35|coverplate for ANSI/ISO layout
COVERSCREWS | 5|screws for coverplate
PHANTOMFUN | 2|Phantom function key
PHANTOMMOD100 | 2|Phantom 1 unit modifier key
PHANTOMMOD125 | 2|Phantom 1.25 units modifier key
PHANTOMMOD150 | 3|Phantom 1.5 units modifier key
PHANSIREDKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX red with stabs
PHANSICLEARKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX clear with stabs
PHANSIBLACKKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX black with stabs
PHANSIBLUEKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX blue with stabs
PHANSIBROWNKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX brown with stabs
PHISOREDKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX red with stabs
PHISOCLEARKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX clear with stabs
PHISOBLACKKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX black with stabs
PHISOBLUEKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX blue with stabs
PHISOBROWNKIT | 150|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX brown with stabs
SOLDERING | 200|soldering
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Do we have a supplier for stabilizers yet? I'd like to order whatever I'm missing.
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Do we have a supplier for stabilizers right? I'd like to order whatever I'm missing.
I'm not sure about the stabilisers.
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If everyone who ordered clear changes over to brown, we'll have enough for an order :biggrin:
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MXBLACK.........566
MXBLUE..........183
MXBROWN.........753
MXCLEAR.........874
MXGREEN..........20
MXGREY...........14
MXRED...........710
Looks like we have a 'clear' winner to me.
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So what about the special ISO plate like I would like to have it? Could it be done?
ISO layout with 1.25x wide modifiers with HHKB Style split right shift/FN and the 5 keys above the arrow keys.
Would be like 7bits layout but with normal funktion row/space bar and in ISO.
However you would like to describe it - I hope you know what I mean! ^^
Else I would have to draw it...
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So what about the special ISO plate like I would like to have it? Could it be done?
ISO layout with 1.25x wide modifiers with HHKB Style split right shift/FN and the 5 keys above the arrow keys.
Would be like 7bits layout but with normal funktion row/space bar and in ISO.
However you would like to describe it - I hope you know what I mean! ^^
Else I would have to draw it...
I think the splitable right Shift should be possible, but I don't exacly know if the holes will really be there.
All layouts will have the cutouts for the keys above the cursor T.
If everyone who ordered brown changes over to clear, we'll have enough for an order :biggrin:
Fixed that for you.
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Fixed that for you.
I'll change my order to clears as soon as we get
MXREDORBLUEORBROWNSPRING | 0.02 |MX light spring
:peace: Victory!
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mv -f ripster /dev/ignore
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Would it make sense to have a backplate and no cover plate due to going with the 7bit layout, or would that be a bit too ghetto in practice?
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Would it make sense to have a backplate and no cover plate due to going with the 7bit layout, or would that be a bit too ghetto in practice?
I don't see why the 7bit layout wouldn't fit in a normal Filco case.
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I don't see why the 7bit layout wouldn't fit in a normal Filco case.
The split up spacebar would be fine, but the merged arrow and home clusters would necessitate doing something to the top part of the case.
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The split up spacebar would be fine, but the merged arrow and home clusters would necessitate doing something to the top part of the case.
That is correct. You would have to remove that chunk of plastic for the keys witches to show through. I wouldn't do that to my Filco cases. If I go with a 7bit special layout, I would just not have a case top, or find a way to make one that fits.
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I think these stabilizers might fit. Will enquire the seller for more info
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14075932508&_u=fkfhos6b0fd
10 pairs for 10RMB each.
Pictures of said stabilizers
(http://i.imgur.com/X9crX.jpg)
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Looking at the bagged parts, these are Costar designs. Whether a copy or not is a good question. I don't recall seeing black key-stems from Costar, but it's always possible.
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I contacted the seller. No luck.
He cannot provide the volume that we need, which is at least 300 stabilizers. He did say that he got these from the factory that make those keycool keyboards.
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Did he understand what you were asking for? Because he has listed 198 10piece sets. That's 1980 stabilizers. Did he think you meant 300 sets of 10? So either he muffed his listing, or didn't realize you meant 300 total, not 300 sets.
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Taobao stock numbers are known to be inaccurate, and are there as a placeholder.
I understand Chinese nicely, no issues with the google translator.
I told him I am thinking of ordering stabilizers for 30 - 40 keyboards, so it is about 300 - 400 stabilizers, no deal, says him.
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Isn't technology awesome? ;)
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Taobao stock numbers are known to be inaccurate, and are there as a placeholder.
I understand Chinese nicely, no issues with the google translator.
I told him I am thinking of ordering stabilizers for 30 - 40 keyboards, so it is about 300 - 400 stabilizers, no deal, says him.
Currently, we need only stabilisers for at most 30 keyboards!
7BIT-layout versions (12 of 42) do not require any stabilisers!
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All talk and no business!! But now at least it is official I have no life... I added the extra switch locations to the function row that 7bit requested. Had to ditch the helper-holes for F5-F8 (who is going to hot swap their F-key stems anyway?). Did some icky rerouting and got all switches attached to the electrical wiring. So no jumper wires will be necessary (the logical matrix locations of the extra two keys are a bit off though).
I think stem change should be possible even without the holes (if it works at all..) It should be possible to get them open like this http://vimeo.com/19399272 The holes in the PCB are only there to make it a bit easier. Myself I wouldn't mind dropping all the quick-stem features to have a cleaner board and plate, but that isn't up to me... =P
Teaser! White round things are holes, slots doesn't render correctly as usual...
(http://i41.tinypic.com/20hq910.jpg)
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... I added the extra switch locations to the function row that 7bit requested. Had to ditch the helper-holes for F5-F8 (who is going to hot swap their F-key stems anyway?). Did some icky rerouting and got all switches attached to the electrical wiring. So no jumper wires will be necessary (the logical matrix locations of the extra two keys are a bit off though).
I love you!
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Taobao stock numbers are known to be inaccurate, and are there as a placeholder.
I understand Chinese nicely, no issues with the google translator.
I told him I am thinking of ordering stabilizers for 30 - 40 keyboards, so it is about 300 - 400 stabilizers, no deal, says him.
I don't think we need that 300-400 stabilizers. Each ANSI and ISO layout keyboard need 4 2x stabilizers, and 1 spacebar stabilizer that is either 7x or 6.25x. 7bit layout doesn't need any stabilisers at all. I don't see any pictures of the metal wires. In any case, they are very cheap.
Kaiserreich, could you buy them all for us? I can paypal you the money + shipping. How many does he have? Can you check to see if he has the metal wires and if he has both 2x wide and 7x or 6.25x wide wires? Thanks.
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Teaser! White round things are holes, slots doesn't render correctly as usual...
Shouldn't the drill hole for the ISO Left Shift be slightly to the right? It should align precisely with the Left Ctrl and Caps Lock, I think.
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Shouldn't the drill hole for the ISO Left Shift be slightly to the right? It should align precisely with the Left Ctrl and Caps Lock, I think.
That is one of the slots... You can see the extent of the slots on the copper. And that copper oval extends to the correct location =)
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I think this might have been asked previously, unfortunately I cant find it now though. Sorry for asking again if that's the case.
Will the ISOWIN plate have extra holes in the right section like the 7BIT plate?
It would be nice to have sort of a semi numpad.
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I think this might have been asked previously, unfortunately I cant find it now though. Sorry for asking again if that's the case.
Will the ISOWIN plate have extra holes in the right section like the 7BIT plate?
It would be nice to have sort of a semi numpad.
Yes all plates will have the extra cutouts above the arrow cluster. Please note that they will not be accessible with the Filco case, at least not without cutting into it...
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Yes all plates will have the extra cutouts above the arrow cluster. Please note that they will not be accessible with the Filco case, at least not without cutting into it...
[size=8]Congratulations!
You've posted the 256th post in this thread!
You won a Phantom PCB![/size]
[/color]
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Yes all plates will have the extra cutouts above the arrow cluster. Please note that they will not be accessible with the Filco case, at least not without cutting into it...
Thanks. Now I'm happy :)
Congratulations!
You've posted the 256th post in this thread!
You won a Phantom PCB!
And now I'm sad for missing that free PCB by one post :(
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And now I'm sad for missing that free PCB by one post :(
Either that was an automated response, or he's just pulling your leg.. I will have a PCB anyways =P
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7bit is definitely trolling :fish:
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And PrinsValium has one more bit than 7bit. PrinsValium, you are now known as 8bit.
8bit -> 256
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Either that was an automated response, or he's just pulling your leg.. I will have a PCB anyways =P
Grrr 7bit is such a bully :)
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I actually turned 6bit in September, and made a big thing about it. I became "jämnjämnjämnjämnjämngammal" ("jämn"=even/round, "gammal"=old). We usually say we turn a "round numbered" age at 25, 40, 50 so on, I think that is what is called a round number in English. The Swedish word four "round" and "even" is the same. So it is a little nerdy to make a big thing about turning 32 =D We also build longer words by writing short ones together. A skipping rope is a "hopprep", "hopp rep" would be nonsense in Swedish.
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Either that was an automated response, or he's just pulling your leg.. I will have a PCB anyways =P
But now, you officially won one!
I hope you appreciate it!
So you are now a hundred thousand years old.
Impressive age you've got!
BTW:
Hopprep sounds much more like what it really is. Don't get what they skip with it.
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I'm still torn on this. Anyone want to convince me to get a 7bit layout Phantom or to pass this time?
Including a Poker I'm waiting on from the current Poker group buy, I've picked up seven mechanical keyboards in the last four months. I told myself and numerous friends that I was going to hold off on more keyboards for a few months, but... I don't normally have a chance to get a programmable keyboard with a ridiculous number of keys in a standard tenkeyless size. I'm cool with screwing around with the Teensy firmware, but I don't have a good way of doing much with the hardware-side of things.
Would it be practical to do a Phantom without a cover plate, seeing as how there probably won't be one that's compatible with the 7bit layout? Or does anyone have any particular plans about what they'll be doing in terms of cases for 7bit boards?
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I don't normally have a chance to get a programmable keyboard with a ridiculous number of keys in a standard tenkeyless size.
Don't forget you can also go over to Round 4 (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20485-Double-shot-replacements-ROUND-FOUR!) to get interesting and useful caps for that ridiculous number of keys.
Would it be practical to do a Phantom without a cover plate, seeing as how there probably won't be one that's compatible with the 7bit layout? Or does anyone have any particular plans about what they'll be doing in terms of cases for 7bit boards?
It seems to me that if you stuff the latest (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=452580&viewfull=1#post452580) PCB full of keys, the top cover becomes ridiculously simple:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32163)
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All talk and no business!! But now at least it is official I have no life... I added the extra switch locations to the function row that 7bit requested. Had to ditch the helper-holes for F5-F8 (who is going to hot swap their F-key stems anyway?). Did some icky rerouting and got all switches attached to the electrical wiring. So no jumper wires will be necessary (the logical matrix locations of the extra two keys are a bit off though).
I think stem change should be possible even without the holes (if it works at all..) It should be possible to get them open like this http://vimeo.com/19399272 The holes in the PCB are only there to make it a bit easier. Myself I wouldn't mind dropping all the quick-stem features to have a cleaner board and plate, but that isn't up to me... =P
Teaser! White round things are holes, slots doesn't render correctly as usual...
Show Image
(http://i41.tinypic.com/20hq910.jpg)
does this mean that extra switches can be put in the function row?
I actually turned 6bit in September, and made a big thing about it. I became "jämnjämnjämnjämnjämngammal" ("jämn"=even/round, "gammal"=old). We usually say we turn a "round numbered" age at 25, 40, 50 so on, I think that is what is called a round number in English. The Swedish word four "round" and "even" is the same. So it is a little nerdy to make a big thing about turning 32 =D We also build longer words by writing short ones together. A skipping rope is a "hopprep", "hopp rep" would be nonsense in Swedish.
Would a well designed layout convince you? http://tinyurl.com/d9lqxwr
Don't forget you can also go over to Round 4 (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20485-Double-shot-replacements-ROUND-FOUR!) to get interesting and useful caps for that ridiculous number of keys.
It seems to me that if you stuff the latest (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=452580&viewfull=1#post452580) PCB full of keys, the top cover becomes ridiculously simple:
Show Image
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32163)
I would like to confirm if thats what the new PCB looks like as well because then I have more to work with and I am going to have to update my layout.
Also anyone have any ideas yet on a case for the 7bit layout? I dont need something as nice as a filco case but at least something so theres not just a PCB sitting on my desk and have the ability to move it without it all coming apart.
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does this mean that extra switches can be put in the function row?
Would a well designed layout convince you? http://tinyurl.com/d9lqxwr
I would like to confirm if thats what the new PCB looks like as well because then I have more to work with and I am going to have to update my layout.
Also anyone have any ideas yet on a case for the 7bit layout? I dont need something as nice as a filco case but at least something so theres not just a PCB sitting on my desk and have the ability to move it without it all coming apart.
My recommendation is still to just get a backplate, wood or metal from the mount-plate manufacturer.
Maybe some thing to cover the sides as well. Bute surely, there is no need to have cover plate for this.
It is not like you look at the naked PCB. There is a cover already (the mount plate).
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My recommendation is still to just get a backplate, wood or metal from the mount-plate manufacturer.
Maybe some thing to cover the sides as well. Bute surely, there is no need to have cover plate for this.
It is not like you look at the nacked PCB. There is a cover already (the mount plate).
The back and possibly sides would be great, it would be even better if it screwed in and kept the basic angle that keyboards normally have. And I agree there is no need for a cover plate because the mounting plate is already there.
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(http://deskthority.net/w/images/1/1f/Phantom_7BIT_002.png)
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It would be enough if the mounting plate wo be about 25cm longer to the front, then you could just fold it to the back and use it as stand. And the angle of the keyboard would be adjustable too with that!
Just like a >
And if you like your keyboard a little bit higher you could just fold it two times in the front.
This way height and angle would be adjustable.
Edit: Or fold again up the last few cm in the back to nearly close the backside of the keybard. (with a gap for the cable)
All that would look really clean and do a great job as case - a little bit like the corair keyboard... ;-)
Edit2:
This company ( http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/index.php?id=8&L=1 ) would also be a possibility to get the plates at a good price. I know many people getting individual pc case fronts from there...
I would offer to create a case with their design tool in a few hours at home.
How thick must a plate for plate mounted MX be? (minimum and maximum please)
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Everything you ever wanted to know about switch dimensions is here (http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/key/mx.htm). But the quick answer is .06 +- .004 inch.
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Uh, I just saw they increased their prices in the last years... =(
A full "case" as I described it would be be about 100€.
5-9 = 90€
10-19 = 80€
20-29 = 70€
So BiNiaRiS vendor seems to be much cheaper.
Perhaps he can just add the material to the front side of the plate...
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Show Image
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/1/1f/Phantom_7BIT_002.png)
looks like that answers my question about weather the pcb has been updated and is capable of more switches.
Everything you ever wanted to know about switch dimensions is here (http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/key/mx.htm). But the quick answer is .06 +- .004 inch.
I would say make the plate as thick as you can (within the specifications of course) as thicker plates feel studier.
Uh, I just saw they increased their prices in the last years... =(
A full "case" as I described it would be be about 100€.
5-9 = 90€
10-19 = 80€
20-29 = 70€
So BiNiaRiS vendor seems to be much cheaper.
Perhaps he can just add the material to the frint side of the plate...
If your going to do something like that do something like what was done with the DOX keyboard (http://tinyurl.com/68m94xg)
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Everything you ever wanted to know about switch dimensions is here (http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/key/mx.htm). But the quick answer is .06 +- .004 inch.
I would say make the plate as thick as you can (within the specifications of course) as thicker plates feel studier.
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How thick must a plate for plate mounted MX be?
Everything you ever wanted to know about switch dimensions is here (http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/key/mx.htm). But the quick answer is .06 +- .004 inch.
If you're in North America, the really quick answer to take to your local metal vendor is 1/16 inch.
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Nevermind... decimal point failure... brain crashing.
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If you're in North America, the really quick answer to take to your local metal vendor is 1/16 inch.
I'm in Germany, so I had to convert it to 1,5mm... ^^
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I actually turned 6bit in September, and made a big thing about it. I became "jämnjämnjämnjämnjämngammal" ("jämn"=even/round, "gammal"=old). We usually say we turn a "round numbered" age at 25, 40, 50 so on, I think that is what is called a round number in English. The Swedish word four "round" and "even" is the same. So it is a little nerdy to make a big thing about turning 32 =D
When I turned 32, I used to say that I turned 25. I thought you were 25 (decimal) or so years old.
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I sent on order PHISOWINREDKIT 1, but I got an empty receipt, is the normal PHISOREDKIT with or without WIN backplate?
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When I turned 32, I used to say that I turned 25. I thought you were 25 (decimal) or so years old.
Yes, I do look young and firm, don't I? =)
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Yes, I do look young and firm, don't I? =)
Such a stud!
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We are for rEaLz, ripster! :D
Well, the PCB and the plates for sure. Still waiting for Cherry switch quotes from Germany. We Kaiserriech found a source in China who can also get use switches and sounds like there is no minimum order, but most likely at a higher price. Stabilizers remain to be elusive. Worst case would be to source them from used G80 POS keyboards on ebay. That's actually the cheapest way to get switches and stabilizers. No one seems to have spacebar stabilizers of any size though. In fact, no one can source costar stabilizer metal wires.
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Okay, screw it, I'm going for it. PMing Phantom now with this order:
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PH7BIT 1
MXCLEAR 105
DIODE 125
LEDBLUE 2
BACKPLATE 1
BACKSCREWS 1
PHANTOMFUN 1
SOLDERING 1
Let me know if anyone sees any horrific problems with that.
How many LEDs would this easily support anyway? I don't plan on using the standard caps/scroll lock setup, but I'd like to use them to indicate different layers and/or other fun things that come to me.
Edit: Depending on what the switch prices end up looking like, I might also be down for some blue switches.
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My recommendation is still to just get a backplate, wood or metal from the mount-plate manufacturer.
Maybe some thing to cover the sides as well. Bute surely, there is no need to have cover plate for this.
It is not like you look at the naked PCB. There is a cover already (the mount plate).
Dox made his custom keyboard and he did something similar to what you suggest: http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:19227
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19755&d=1309068216)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19752&d=1309067930)
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I have always looked at this project as an organized, and therefore cheaper, version of the Dox with some more complex aspects and possibilities.
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Dox made his custom keyboard and he did something similar to what you suggest: http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:19227
Show Image
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19755&d=1309068216)
Show Image
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19752&d=1309067930)
Yes, I did bring this up before but no one said anything. I think that it is a fine idea, we need someone to design it though and one person to be the guinea pig and pick one up to test it out and work out all of the kinks.
I have always looked at this project as an organized, and therefore cheaper, version of the Dox with some more complex aspects and possibilities.
Same here, though I am also going to build a DOX since I have that almost worked out.
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I have always looked at this project as an organized, and therefore cheaper, version of the Dox with some more complex aspects and possibilities.
Yes, I did bring this up before but no one said anything. I think that it is a fine idea, we need someone to design it though and one person to be the guinea pig and pick one up to test it out and work out all of the kinks.
Same here, though I am also going to build a DOX since I have that almost worked out.
I don't know how much Dox's keyboard is going to cost, but I don't think Phantom would be much cheaper, if at all. Phantom uses more switches, more keycaps, has a high grade PCB, a PCB design that supports very many different configurations, and multiple versions of mounting plates. I do hope we can drive down the price as much as possible. I don't know how BiNiaRiS found a shop that can get plates done so cheap. I checked with a couple of shops close to me and they both want at least 4 times as much as BiNiaRiS's quote. The final price is going to depend on how cheaply we can source all parts.
The 4 of us have already put in seed money to start this, and we will need to put in a few hundred dollars for prototypes before we can start collecting money from you group-buyers to get final parts. and potentially not get the seed money back if the plan doesn't come together. Just like Dox and other people who build their custom keyboards, we do it for the fun of it.
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A Dox board can cost around $300 in the end; everything is bought in non-bulk and therefore showroom prices.
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They also need switches, right? Maybe we can combine their switch orders with ours to bring up the volume and lower the price.
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A Dox is more of an individual type project; I don't think there is a Dox group buy or anything going on. Dox just put up his custom board and instructions on how to do it/where to get everything and a rough price of what it will cost.
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Well, if timing works for the Dox builders, they can just order switches from the Phantom group buy.
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They also need switches, right? Maybe we can combine their switch orders with ours to bring up the volume and lower the price.
I was planing on getting my switches for my DOX through this order if that is ok
A Dox is more of an individual type project; I don't think there is a Dox group buy or anything going on. Dox just put up his custom board and instructions on how to do it/where to get everything and a rough price of what it will cost.
that is the case 2-3 of us are doing builds but their all somewhat different
Well, if timing works for the Dox builders, they can just order switches from the Phantom group buy.
that would be great! I plan to add my phantom order along with the needed parts for the dox once we finish working things out as we have changed much of the original plan for the better.
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yup im planning on ordering some switches for my DOX project too, also probably going to build a phantom for my GF... just hope it can be before christmas... Was going to give her my 2 DOX boards I got so far, but she insisted on having those F#'s
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It is unlikely, if not impossible, to get it shipped and received before Christmas. We would be lucky to have 1 prototype done before the new year. If we are lucky, we might be able to order the first 2 test PCBs 2 weeks from now.
You need to starting thinking about your Christmas gift backup plan :-)
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It is unlikely, if not impossible, to get it shipped and received before Christmas. We would be lucky to have 1 prototype done before the new year. If we are lucky, we might be able to order the first 2 test PCBs 2 weeks from now.
You need to starting thinking about your Christmas gift backup plan :-)
well thats actually good for me so that I can get cash together.
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It is unlikely, if not impossible, to get it shipped and received before Christmas. We would be lucky to have 1 prototype done before the new year. If we are lucky, we might be able to order the first 2 test PCBs 2 weeks from now.
You need to starting thinking about your Christmas gift backup plan :-)
k thanks for the heads up!
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I was planing on getting my switches for my DOX through this order if that is ok
Yes, carry on! Order more!
Maybe I really should set up a switch group buy thread.
PHANTOM..........45
TEENSY...........36
PH7BIT...........12
PHANSI...........18
PHANSIWIN.........8
PHISO.............2
PHISOWIN..........5
BACKPLATE.........1
BACKSCREWS........1
DIODE..........2511
LEDBLUE...........4
MXBLACK.........566
MXBLUE..........188
MXBROWN.........768
MXCLEAR.........979
MXGREEN..........28
MXGREY...........22
MXRED...........710
STAB200..........40
STAB400...........5
STAB625...........3<-------------------no 6.25 units stabilisers found yet.
STAB700..........10
CASE..............6<-------------------no case currently
PHANTOMFUN........8
SOLDERING.........5
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I sent on order PHISOWINREDKIT 1, but I got an empty receipt, is the normal PHISOREDKIT with or without WIN backplate?
7bit, why do you ignore me?
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I did a test of the firmware just now. Turns out I only have more or less broken Teensys (don't worry, I've treated them exceptionally bad to break them...). All except the two pins used for col0 and col1 worked. It seems like I got the firmware correctly, even the LEDs seem to be hooked up in the right order =) In the picture I have shorted row5 and col16.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32276[/ATTACH]
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7bit, why do you ignore me?
I will take care of it!
I did a test of the firmware just now. Turns out I only have more or less broken Teensys (don't worry, I've treated them exceptionally bad to break them...). All except the two pins used for col0 and col1 worked. It seems like I got the firmware correctly, even the LEDs seem to be hooked up in the right order =) In the picture I have shorted row5 and col16.
(Attachment) 32276[/ATTACH]
Are these the key codes, the keyboard will send?
#define KEY_CTRL 0x01
#define KEY_SHIFT 0x02
#define KEY_ALT 0x04
#define KEY_GUI 0x08
#define KEY_LEFT_CTRL 0x01
#define KEY_LEFT_SHIFT 0x02
#define KEY_LEFT_ALT 0x04
#define KEY_LEFT_GUI 0x08
#define KEY_RIGHT_CTRL 0x10
#define KEY_RIGHT_SHIFT 0x20
#define KEY_RIGHT_ALT 0x40
#define KEY_RIGHT_GUI 0x80
What about KEY_E and KEY_GUI?
edit: At least for the keycode question I've fund an answer:
quadibloc.com/comp/scan (http://www.quadibloc.com/comp/scan.htm)
What does the modifier flag do?
const uint8_t is_modifier[NKEY]
Do I need to specify it true for all keys which I intend to use as modifiers?
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Yes, you need to specify if the key is a modifier or not. They are handled very differently. All, eight, modifiers are sent as a single bit of the same byte in the protocol. Then there are 6 more bytes for the 6KRO keys sent in every HID package, they are stored one per byte. Setting the wrong flag in is_modifier gives rise to some very interesting bugs =)
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Yes, you need to specify if the key is a modifier or not. They are handled very differently. All, eight, modifiers are sent as a single bit of the same byte in the protocol. Then there are 6 more bytes for the 6KRO keys sent in every HID package, they are stored one per byte. Setting the wrong flag in is_modifier gives rise to some very interesting bugs =)
So there is a code for each modifier as a key plus the modifier flag?
If not:
I see the modifiers get numbers 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128.
These are for Shift, Alt, Control and Super (GUI)
What about the rest of the modifiers?
There are Meta and Hyper which would require numbers 256, 512, 1024 and 2048.
???
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Either they are not "modifiers" in the USB HID interface, or it is just in this implementation they aren't. I have no idea =) The modifiers have one bit each in he modifier byte. They are masked together before sending. Any key can be mapped to any "key_code" in the OS. Are you sure hyper and meta should be sent as modifiers?
It seems to me that keyboard codes and communication is a complete duct tape construction disaster from start to finish. Someone would need to redo the thing from start...
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Either they are not "modifiers" in the USB HID interface, or it is just in this implementation they aren't. I have no idea =) The modifiers have one bit each in he modifier byte. They are masked together before sending. Any key can be mapped to any "key_code" in the OS. Are you sure hyper and meta should be sent as modifiers?
It seems to me that keyboard codes and communication is a complete duct tape construction disaster from start to finish. Someone would need to redo the thing from start...
These are the USB key codes:
E0 Ctrl L (224)
E1 Shift L
E2 Alt L
E3 Win L
E4 Ctrl R (228)
E5 Shift R
E6 Alt L
E7 Win R
It seems that the flags are only used internally for the n-key rollover feature (all modifiers+6 keys instead of say 3 modifier and only 3 keys).
Here are the key codes from usb_keyboard.h:
#define KEY_LEFTCONTROL 224
#define KEY_LEFTSHIFT 225
#define KEY_LEFTALT 226
#define KEY_LEFTGUI 227
#define KEY_RIGHTCONTROL 228
#define KEY_RIGHTSHIFT 229
#define KEY_RIGHTALT 230
#define KEY_RIGHTGUI 231
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Has anyone seen those KDBmania.net custom cases? we can try finding someone to do the acrylic cutting for us to get some sweet cases
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If you're using the 'boot mode' report, meta and hyper would be sent as regular keys (using up slots from the 6)... that's fine.
The only reason for the special treatment of modifiers is to cram more keys into the 8 byte report; it makes no functional difference once the report is unpacked at the other end.
If you want it better - don't use boot mode!
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I have hardly even looked at usb_keybaord.c, and certainly not dug into the USB HID dungeon. I have no idea how it all works in the background. I only use the usb_keyboard_send() function and am happy with that... That seems deep enough for me =)
I really don't think it matters. For example the "menu" key can be held down, much like a modifier, and another key pressed to chose one of the alternatives. The extra keycodes for the usual modifiers might just be, extra I suppose. All those higher numbers are probably used pretty seldom.
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If you're using the 'boot mode' report, meta and hyper would be sent as regular keys (using up slots from the 6)... that's fine.
The only reason for the special treatment of modifiers is to cram more keys into the 8 byte report; it makes no functional difference once the report is unpacked at the other end.
If you want it better - don't use boot mode!
Thanks for clearing this up.
So I can use the bit-wise encoded modifiers plus the regularly encoded ones:-)
I can press both Shift, Alt, Control, Super (8 keys) plus both Hyper and Meta (4 keys), plus any other key and still have one key left to be registered if I pressed it!
This should be sufficient!
[size=12]:-)[/size]
[/b]
Has anyone seen those KDBmania.net custom cases? we can try finding someone to do the acrylic cutting for us to get some sweet cases
Who needs a case if one has up to 14 key rollover!
BTW, what is 'boot mode'?
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Boot mode is the "stupid USB KB" mode that doesn't require any intelligence to decode, which is what is required to fiddle with your BIOS.
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Boot mode is the "stupid USB KB" mode that doesn't require any intelligence to decode, which is what is required to fiddle with your BIOS.
So, does that mean if you don't use boot code, you could go NKRO with teensy, but you would lose the ability to manage your BIOS with the keyboard? Does UEFI still require boot code?
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I want to get a 7bit special. So many awesome things can be done with it.
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There are a couple different teensy firmware's with NKRO. I don't know UEFI's status but would expect it to require boot mode, why not since all commercial KBs have it?
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So, does that mean if you don't use boot code, you could go NKRO with teensy, but you would lose the ability to manage your BIOS with the keyboard? Does UEFI still require boot code?
The HID configuration I use in my converter fully supports boot mode as well as NKRO.
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I would order:
PHANTOM 1
TEENSY 1
PHISOFULLFN 1
MXRED 100
DIODE 120
and the needed STAB
IF
you could offer the plate PHISOFULLFN following this design: (mix of ISOwin and 7bit)
(red marks show differences between ISOwin and my design)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32290[/ATTACH]
(The Fx-Row would also be ok or even better with 2 extra keys as I saw in one of the many phantom threads...)
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I would order:
PHANTOM 1
TEENSY 1
PHISOFULLFN 1
MXRED 100
DIODE 120
and the needed STAB
IF
you could offer the plate PHISOFULLFN following this design: (mix of ISOwin and 7bit)
(red marks show differences between ISOwin and my design)
(Attachment) 32290[/ATTACH]
(The Fx-Row would also be ok or even better with 2 extra keys as I saw in one of the many phantom threads...)
If you want 15 function keys instead of 13, just get 7BIT layout.
The extra cursor keys are no problem, but what about the split right shift?
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7bit, why do you ignore me?
I did not really ignore you, just had to find the time.
The reason is very simple:
PHANSIREDKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX red with stabs
PHANSICLEARKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX clear with stabs
PHANSIBLACKKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX black with stabs
PHANSIBLUEKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX blue with stabs
PHANSIBROWNKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX brown with stabs
PHISOREDKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX red with stabs
PHISOCLEARKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX clear with stabs
PHISOBLACKKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX black with stabs
PHISOBLUEKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX blue with stabs
PHISOBROWNKIT | 1| 150|-1|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX brown with stabs
No PHISOWINREDKIT available!
I will add it now. Please re-submit you order.
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If you want 15 function keys instead of 13, just get 7BIT layout.
The extra cursor keys are no problem, but what about the split right shift?
In Post 2 of this thread the 7bit layout doesn't have 15 keys in the F-Key row but the split right shift I want.
To be true I hate all these tiny keys instead of the big space in the 7bit layout. So is it possible to get the layout in my picture? 13 or 15 keys in the F-Key row doesn't matter for me.
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In Post 2 of this thread the 7bit layout doesn't have 15 keys in the F-Key row but the split right shift I want.
To be true I hate all these tiny keys instead of the big space in the 7bit layout. So is it possible to get the layout in my picture? 13 or 15 keys in the F-Key row doesn't matter for me.
If I remember correctly the plates other than 7bit also have cutouts for above the cursors at least i think that was mentioned.
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In Post 2 of this thread the 7bit layout doesn't have 15 keys in the F-Key row but the split right shift I want.
To be true I hate all these tiny keys instead of the big space in the 7bit layout. So is it possible to get the layout in my picture? 13 or 15 keys in the F-Key row doesn't matter for me.
Find some people who want Tarkoon-layout and you will get it!
If I remember correctly the plates other than 7bit also have cutouts for above the cursors at least i think that was mentioned.
Yes, they will be there. But the 15 function keys will not be there. I don't know about the split up right Shift or split up right Return.
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Ok, so where are the ones, who planned to get the ISOwin plate, don't like the completely split up space row from the 7bit layout but like the split up right shift to get a FN key there?
That layout would look like that:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]32290[/ATTACH]
Let's call it PHISOFULLFN!
VOTE FOR IT HERE!
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There will be switch holes in the plate for the keys above the arrow keys. I think that the first post should be updated with that info.
One thing that I have been considering is to enlarge the hole in my ISO plate for the right to make space for two switches (1.75 + 1). I would need a coarse file for the gruntwork (even though I don't think that it will be much) and then a couple of needle files for the fine work. Relatively easy.
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The HID configuration I use in my converter fully supports boot mode as well as NKRO.
Cool! PrinsValium's Teensy firmware has 6KRO already. How easy/hard is it to port your HID configuration to work on the Phantom keyboard?
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Cool! PrinsValium's Teensy firmware has 6KRO already. How easy/hard is it to port your HID configuration to work on the Phantom keyboard?
Pretty easy, I'd imagine! I can help/advise on that (in fact I think I've already posted all the info needed, it's just a matter of finding it).
But don't fret about firmware - it can be updated later :-)
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There will be switch holes in the plate for the keys above the arrow keys. I think that the first post should be updated with that info.
One thing that I have been considering is to enlarge the hole in my ISO plate for the right to make space for two switches (1.75 + 1). I would need a coarse file for the gruntwork (even though I don't think that it will be much) and then a couple of needle files for the fine work. Relatively easy.
It looks like the plates will be aluminum, you will file through that in no time at all. Add some hack sawing to start it off and it might be even quicker. I've heard that aluminum might have a tendency to clog abrasive tools though..
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But don't fret about firmware - it can be updated later :-)
Good point! My hope is that there will be at least some people developing firmwares further and there will be a few different to choose from, and to inspire each other.
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Pretty easy, I'd imagine! I can help/advise on that (in fact I think I've already posted all the info needed, it's just a matter of finding it).
But don't fret about firmware - it can be updated later :-)
Good point! My hope is that there will be at least some people developing firmwares further and there will be a few different to choose from, and to inspire each other.
Yes, the firmware is the least of our concerns right now :-). We will have plenty of time to update it. Try that with commercial keyboards!
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I want to get a 7bit special. So many awesome things can be done with it.
Looks like a good choice to me! With the probability of soarer's addition, this is shaping up to be excellent.
Aren't there almost 104 switches on the 7bit? Looks like the perfect keyboard to me.
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Pretty easy, I'd imagine! I can help/advise on that (in fact I think I've already posted all the info needed, it's just a matter of finding it).
But don't fret about firmware - it can be updated later :-)
Would you be willing to develop some for the DOX project as well?
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104 switches on a tenkeyless footprint. You can only find it on a Phantom! We need to start give Phantom different model numbers. This may be called Phantom 104.
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It looks like the plates will be aluminum, you will file through that in no time at all. Add some hack sawing to start it off and it might be even quicker. I've heard that aluminum might have a tendency to clog abrasive tools though..
Any way that you could look into doing a all in one plate/case design like the DOX or would one have to look into that on their own?
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104 switches on a tenkeyless footprint. You can only find it on a Phantom! We need to start give Phantom different model numbers. This may be called Phantom 104.
Sounds good to me. But now where to look for fully compatible caps for the 7bit layout? Could we possibly get blanks from SP and the have WASD do the engraving/etching? I have never dealt with SP before so I dont know if this would be more cost effective. Also then everyone could get their desired layout.
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I think if you want WASD to do printing for you, you would use WASD's caps. Buying blanks from SP and have WASD do printing is not going to work. If I were WASD, I wouldn't do it.
Maybe 7bit will have a 7bit Phantom kit for group buy 4.
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I think if you want WASD to do printing for you, you would use WASD's caps. Buying blanks from SP and have WASD do printing is not going to work. If I were WASD, I wouldn't do it.
Maybe 7bit will have a 7bit Phantom kit for group buy 4.
I would love to buy caps from WASD and not SP but I dont believe he has the required sizes for the correct rows. (he will have the right and left shift but not the 1.5x modifiers and spacebars {idk if you can get around this Im just going off the 7bit layout that I have seen} and the return key.)
Idk about the group buy because I plan to use a much different layout than the 7bit's http://tinyurl.com/d9lqxwr
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Sounds good to me. But now where to look for fully compatible caps for the 7bit layout? Could we possibly get blanks from SP and the have WASD do the engraving/etching? I have never dealt with SP before so I dont know if this would be more cost effective. Also then everyone could get their desired layout.
LOL!
What about the Round 4 group buy!
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LOL!
What about the Round 4 group buy!
Well would I be able to get the legends that I want? Or would it be for just blanks? And I thought there was minimum number of orders. I guess ill head over to that thread so I dont pollute this one.
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Well would I be able to get the legends that I want? Or would it be for just blanks? And I thought there was minimum number of orders. I guess ill head over to that thread so I dont pollute this one.
Just ask, but look at the wiki first!
http://deskthority.net/wiki/R44d
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Round4
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It looks like the plates will be aluminum, you will file through that in no time at all. Add some hack sawing to start it off and it might be even quicker. I've heard that aluminum might have a tendency to clog abrasive tools though..
Aluminium has a tendency to fray and tangle together, though, so it does happen, but I have had more problems with plastics and supposedly-cured putty clogging.
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Would you be willing to develop some for the DOX project as well?
I've got a large pile of unfinished projects I want to work on once I've got the current round of improvements to my converter done! So I can't say I would develop it, but I will explain how to add NKRO to the PJRC keyboard code and provide at least the report descriptors, probably some code as well.
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I've got a large pile of unfinished projects I want to work on once I've got the current round of improvements to my converter done! So I can't say I would develop it, but I will explain how to add NKRO to the PJRC keyboard code and provide at least the report descriptors, probably some code as well.
We'll take the help, as we're currently just modifying 2 different versions that are available. Thanks in advance.
Edit: looks the like firmware we have been using already uses it. http://tinyurl.com/84anbbt
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This is borne of ignorance, I'd like a programmable board with soft-layers like the 7Bit layout.
It is possible to wire this up using simply the ANSI125 kit?
So soft layers without the insane layout?
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This is borne of ignorance, I'd like a programmable board with soft-layers like the 7Bit layout.
It is possible to wire this up using either the ANSI125 kit? So soft layers without the insane layout?
No.
Soft layers only work with spherical key caps with centered ALL-caps lables.
Also, stabilsers and multiple layers do not go well together!
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No.
Soft layers only work with spherical key caps with centered ALL-caps lables.
Also, stabilsers and multiple layers do not go well together!
Given your posting history, I don't take anything you say seriously.
Can anyone else give me an answer?
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its the controlled that allows for the layers. though I think that I have come up with a goof layout for the 7bit board http://tinyurl.com/d9lqxwr .
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Given your posting history, I don't take anything you say seriously.
Can anyone else give me an answer?
You ask a question about the 7bit layout, and 7bit himself answered your question, and then you say you don't take anything 7bit says seriously. What is wrong with this picture?
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You ask a question about the 7bit layout, and 7bit himself answered your question, and then you say you don't take anything 7bit says seriously. What is wrong with this picture?
He said "Soft layers only work with spherical key caps with centered ALL-caps lables."
And I'm supposed to take this seriously? Not to mention the general sarcastic, joking style he posts in both here and at Deskthority.
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He said "Soft layers only work with spherical key caps with centered ALL-caps lables."
And I'm supposed to take this seriously? Not to mention the general sarcastic, joking style he posts in both here and at Deskthority.
Multiple layers work with all layouts, but to have full n-key rollover you need double-shots!
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He said "Soft layers only work with spherical key caps with centered ALL-caps lables."
And I'm supposed to take this seriously? Not to mention the general sarcastic, joking style he posts in both here and at Deskthority.
7bit is the best.
It's true that he likes to generate interest in his GB, though :p
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multile layers work with all layouts, but to have full n-key rollover you need double-shots!
:rofl:
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Multile layers work with all layouts, but to have full n-key rollover you need double-shots!
I knew it! I have always deeply believed that the key is in the keycaps.
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Multile layers work with all layouts, but to have full n-key rollover you need double-shots!
But dye sub keys get you a more expensive keyboard.
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Is it possible to order the TEENSY_PINS instead ? If yes for how much ?
Since I am not very familiar with Cherry stabilizers what is the difference between these stabilizers
STAB200 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabilizer
STAB400 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabilizer
STAB625 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabilizer
STAB700 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabilizer
STAB1000 | 1| 2|MX plate mount stabilizer
BTW how much is the shipping to Australia?
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But dye sub keys get you a more expensive keyboard.
I dunno: It's close, what with all the SPH keys I'm getting for it. The dyesubs are for my other tenkeyless, ofcourse.
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Since I am not very familiar with Cherry stabilizers what is the difference between these stabilizers?
The number indicates the size of the key that the stabilizer is intended for, in hundredths of a ‘key unit’, the size of a normal letter key. So a STAB200 is suitable for a double-width key like backspace; the larger ones are for various sizes of space bar.
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The number indicates the size of the key that the stabilizer is intended for, in hundredths of a ‘key unit’, the size of a normal letter key. So a STAB200 is suitable for a double-width key like backspace; the larger ones are for various sizes of space bar.
Thanks for your replay :-) . I found more extensive description here (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Space_bar)
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Hi, are you ok if i order only switches? I didn't find a good place to order them and i really want to change my blue for red on my majestouch 1. I think that you sell mounting plate switches so it will fit my majestouch 1 but i am not sure about one thing. You sell switches with diode unlike the one on my filco? Do you know if it will fit or not?
thank you
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It is okay if you just want to order switches. We are still waiting for a quote from our Germany source. There is another source in China that we could use. At this time it is unclear if we can secure all the switches we need for this project. So it may be a while before we will order switches. If you are just replacing blues with reds, you don't need diodes. But you will need to desolder all your blue switches and replace them with red switches, or replace just the stem and springs from red switches. Since you already have blues, which has the lighter spring like red and brown, and black stems is the same as red stems except the color, you could also get black switches to get black stems and replace your blue switches' blue stems with black stems. That will get you ghetto red.
edit: typos
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So it may be a while before we will order switches. If you are just replacing blues with reds, you don't know diodes. But you will need to desolder all your blue switches and replace them with red switches, or replace just the stem and springs from red switches. Since you already have blues, which has the lighter spring like red and brown, and black stems is the same as red stems except the color, you could also get black switches to get black stems and replace your blue switches' blue stems with black stems. That will get you ghetto red.
Given this, we should just be able to order from mouser/digikey in a pinch; they carry clear/brown/blue/black right?
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Given this, we should just be able to order from mouser/digikey in a pinch; they carry clear/brown/blue/black right?
there is also online components.
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Would group buyers be willing to source their own switches and stabilizers, if we don't include them in the group buy? We should be able to get plates and PCBs shipped out faster than switches, I believe. But I can double check.
EDIT: maybe we will just separate the plate and PCBs with switches. We can ask for separate payments, first for PCBs and plates, and then again for switches and stabilizers.
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Would group buyers be willing to source their own switches and stabilizers, if we don't include them in the group buy? We should be able to get plates and PCBs shipped out faster than switches, I believe. But I can double check.
I wouldnt mind sourcing everything but the pcb and plate it it gets this going faster. Also if we could find a design for a case that might be good to include as well or we can do a separate group buy.
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maybe we will just separate the plate and PCBs with switches. We can ask for separate payments, first for PCBs and plates, and then again for switches and stabilizers. That should cover both.
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A quick update. Test plates have been ordered last week. They should be done this week. But this week is only a 3-day work week due to the US Thanksgiving holidays. BiNiaRiS will may an PHANSI plate to me and I will put switches and keycaps on the plate to verify the plate. PCB design will be finalized after that and then we can order a couple of test PCBs for one more round of verification. If everything goes well, we can then collect payments for PCBs and plates.
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I would really like the switches to be part of some organized buy. Makes things much easier.
Putting them in separate buys is fine.
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I would rather have the PCB and Plates shipped together, considering how much international shipping goes for.
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I would rather have the PCB and Plates shipped together, considering how much international shipping goes for.
I think that was the intent as those are the only really custom things.
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On the 7bit layout would it be possible to use all 1.25 width keys on the bottom row? I know that there might be a little extra space in between the 4th key from either side and the other keys. I this is possible could someone please so a layout mockup of this me me I would really appreciate it.
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I would rather have the PCB and Plates shipped together, considering how much international shipping goes for.
I think that was the intent as those are the only really custom things.
Yes, PCBs and plates will be shipped together.
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Something like this should work the Extra space between keys isnt ideal but it will allow me to get custom legends through WASD Keyboards.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/atHome/7bitWASD.png)
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So I've finally gotten around to parsing through the OP and figuring out how all this works and what I need to buy. Is there a plan for getting a case for the 7bit layout?
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there is also online components.
Yeah, They even carry the awesome expensive one that steps for capslock, etc.
What I meant by "mouser/digikey" is that we can order from a normal parts dealer if need be (except for reds)
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So I've finally gotten around to parsing through the OP and figuring out how all this works and what I need to buy. Is there a plan for getting a case for the 7bit layout?
Take a Filco case and cut away the part for the extra righthanded keys.
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So I've finally gotten around to parsing through the OP and figuring out how all this works and what I need to buy. Is there a plan for getting a case for the 7bit layout?
Currently there is no case for any layout. :( The original idea from HaveANiceDay was to design a plate and a PCB that is programmable and you can use old Cherry double shot keycaps including those 1.5x Cherry double shot Alt and Ctrl keycaps. You would reuse your switches, stabilizers, and case from your filco tenkeyless keyboard. The project's scope has grown wider since then. :)
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Currently there is no case for any layout. :( The original idea from HaveANiceDay was to design a plate and a PCB that is programmable and you can use old Cherry double shot keycaps including those 1.5x Cherry double shot Alt and Ctrl keycaps. You would reuse your switches, stabilizers, and case from your filco tenkeyless keyboard. The project's scope has grown wider since then. :)
The PCB is universal, but each layout combo (ISO/ANSI and 1.25x/1.5x mods) requires a different plate, right?
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The PCB is universal, but each layout combo (ISO/ANSI and 1.25x/1.5x mods) requires a different plate, right?
That's correct.
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Yeah, They even carry the awesome expensive one that steps for capslock, etc.
What I meant by "mouser/digikey" is that we can order from a normal parts dealer if need be (except for reds)
Yea i plan to buy one to have a toggleable Fn layer.
Take a Filco case and cut away the part for the extra righthanded keys.
and where are we supposed to get those for a reasonable price?
That's correct.
There could just be one case that just goes around the perimeter then, should work with every layout.
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and where are we supposed to get those for a reasonable price?
Building custom keyboards is anything but reasonable =)
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Building custom keyboards is anything but reasonable =)
No reason to buy a $150 keyboard just for the case though. Especially when we can easily get a custom case one for that price.
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No reason to buy a $150 keyboard just for the case though. Especially when we can easily get a custom case one for that price.
A new keyboard could also be the source of switches. And you could use a Leopold case, right? So that's $130 after taxes and shipping (for me in CA at least).
Or, there is a case listed in the OP for $60... is that going to pan out?
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A new keyboard could also be the source of switches. And you could use a Leopold case, right? So that's $130 after taxes and shipping (for me in CA at least).
Or, there is a case listed in the OP for $60... is that going to pan out?
No.
The best thing we can have is a backplate and some screws to put the whole thing together.
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No.
The best thing we can have is a backplate and some scrwes to put the whole thing together.
No to just the case in the OP, right? A modded Leopold case should work for the 7bit layout?
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Leopold case is different enough from the Filco case that it should not work if it hasn't been planned for. I don't recall anyone doing internal measurements on the Leopold for this build.
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No to just the case in the OP, right? A modded Leopold case should work for the 7bit layout?
I believe its made to fit a Filco, my guess is that the holes in the PCB are not the same.
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We were talking about some different cases in the DOX discussion thread starting here http://tinyurl.com/cgfzb4k I think the acrylic ones should be rather easy to do.
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Especially when we can easily get a custom case one for that price.
Please show us how easy it is to get a custom case for any price. We can really use one here.
Leopold case is different enough from the Filco case that it should not work if it hasn't been planned for. I don't recall anyone doing internal measurements on the Leopold for this build.
Correct. The Phantom PCB and plate design is the same setup as Filco, not Leopold.
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We were talking about some different cases in the DOX discussion thread starting here http://tinyurl.com/cgfzb4k I think the acrylic ones should be rather easy to do.
Heres the links to the cases we were taking about. http://tinyurl.com/cbnqxqu http://tinyurl.com/d3fpllu We came to the conclusion that it looks like a couple layers of CNC cut acrylic.
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Heres the links to the cases we were taking about. http://tinyurl.com/cbnqxqu http://tinyurl.com/d3fpllu We came to the conclusion that it looks like a couple layers of CNC cut acrylic.
Cool, design one that works for Filco tenkeyless's innards, send us the drawings in dxf format, and we can investigate how much it could cost to make.
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Cool, design one that works for Filco tenkeyless's innards, send us the drawings in dxf format, and we can investigate how much it could cost to make.
Sadly I dont have the skills for that nor a Filco TKL to get measurements from. Im sure someone on GeekHack has skills in AutoCAD and is capable of doing so though. Its just a matter of finding them and having them hopefully agree to help.
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Same for me. I don't know AutoCAD. It is not so easy after all.
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Same for me. I don't know AutoCAD. It is not so easy after all.
Well I started up a thread http://tinyurl.com/d85nm9g lets see what happens.
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Well I started up a thread http://tinyurl.com/d85nm9g lets see what happens.
Some interest has been shown but measurements of a Filco are needed. If you can help please head over to the thread, thanks.
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7bit told me that we got quotes back on switches. Looks like it is a go with switches. Brown, Clear, and Red are a go. We are at less than 200 switches for Blue and less than 400 for Black, so we may axe them if we don't get close to 1000 blue switches, the minimum order quote.
In case you missed it, it is OK if you just want to order switches through the Phantom group buy.
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7bit told me that we got quotes back on switches. Looks like it is a go with switches. Brown, Clear, and Red are a go. We are at less than 200 switches for Blue and less than 400 for Black, so we may axe them if we don't get close to 1000 blue switches, the minimum order quote.
In case you missed it, it is OK if you just want to order switches through the Phantom group buy.
Nothing gets axed until we will order (which will be shortly before the PCBs and plates are ready). So if anybody wants blues and blacks, just order them through this group buy!!!
Tip:
If you can't decide if you want clears, ergo-clears, reds, browns or blacks:
Just get reds and clears, so you can swap the springs and get red-stem blacks and clear-stem browns (ergo-clears).
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7bit told me that we got quotes back on switches.
Ok, so do we have approx. costs for the switch types? Some people may be holding back worried about the switch cost being suddenly more than expected.
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Ok, so do we have approx. costs for the switch types? Some people may be holding back worried about the switch cost being suddenly more than expected.
MOQ is 1000 switches.
Price is around 40 EUR-cent. If you are in EU, you can pay them in EUR. If not, price will be less than ˘60 per switch.
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we may axe them if we don't get close to 1000 blue switches, the minimum order quote.
Nothing gets axed until we will order (which will be shortly before the PCBs and plates are ready). So if anybody wants blues and blacks, just order them through this group buy!!!
7bit==good cop
litster==bad cop
Keep the orders coming and no one gets hurt! :)
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The PCB picture at the top of the first post has been updated to the final version. If you are planning for your special layouts, please check that there are switch positions for your layouts, especially on the front row. Keep in mind that the switch locations for the design is locked. So you will have to make your layouts work with this PCB design. Thanks.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=443851&viewfull=1#post443851
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A new keyboard could also be the source of switches. And you could use a Leopold case, right? So that's $130 after taxes and shipping (for me in CA at least).
Or, there is a case listed in the OP for $60... is that going to pan out?
No.
The best thing we can have is a backplate and some screws to put the whole thing together.
No to just the case in the OP, right? A modded Leopold case should work for the 7bit layout?
Leopold case is different enough from the Filco case that it should not work if it hasn't been planned for. I don't recall anyone doing internal measurements on the Leopold for this build.
I believe its made to fit a Filco, my guess is that the holes in the PCB are not the same.
The Leopold is a certain non-supported (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20184-The-Phantom-and-interest-check&p=386550&viewfull=1#post386550) case.
The PLU looks more promising (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20184-The-Phantom-and-interest-check&p=387722&viewfull=1#post387722), looks (I don't have one IRL) like an exact copy of the Filco).
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The PCB picture at the top of the first post has been updated to the final version. If you are planning for your special layouts, please check that there are switch positions for your layouts, especially on the front row. Keep in mind that the switch locations for the design is locked. So you will have to make your layouts work with this PCB design. Thanks.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=443851&viewfull=1#post443851
As long as it fully supports 7bits layout made from the last PCB (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/atHome/7bitCustom2Layer3TEMP2.png) Im good.
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The PLU looks more promising (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20184-The-Phantom-and-interest-check&p=387722&viewfull=1#post387722), looks (I don't have one IRL) like an exact copy of the Filco).
Yep, looks like PLU is the golden ticket for a case (and switches + stabilizers) for Phantom. First picture is 2 of my Filco cases, black is MJ1, white is MJ2.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32713&d=1321999588)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22447&d=1311718970)
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Looks like a fit to me. Now where to get some I think qtan has some but mostly in pink.
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Yep, looks like PLU is the golden ticket for a case (and switches + stabilizers) for Phantom. First picture is 2 of my Filco cases, black is MJ1, white is MJ2.
Show Image
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32713&d=1321999588)
Show Image
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22447&d=1311718970)
Sorry to crash on this thread. But you see that white connector connecting the cable to the board, Is it possible to buy that male part (the bit connected to the wire). I'm looking for one so I can do a USB mini mod to my Noppoo choc mini.
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Looks like a fit to me. Now where to get some I think qtan has some but mostly in pink.
I think PLU is only 2KRO (no diodes on PCB), and the PCB looks to be of lower quality than Filco's PCB (and Phantom's PCB). It is about US$63 before agent fees and shipping. qtan maybe able to get us a deal.
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Sorry to crash on this thread. But you see that white connector connecting the cable to the board, Is it possible to buy that male part (the bit connected to the wire). I'm looking for one so I can do a USB mini mod to my Noppoo choc mini.
I am pretty sure these are the exact ones. They look very much the same at least... I wouldn't call for sure what is male and female though. Do plastic or metal parts count? =)
http://se.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=87369-0500virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-87369-0500
http://se.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=89401-0510virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-89401-0510
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I think PLU is only 2KRO (no diodes on PCB), and the PCB looks to be of lower quality than Filco's PCB (and Phantom's PCB). It is about US$63 before agent fees and shipping. qtan maybe able to get us a deal.
Right now he has them the cheapest on ebay for $77 for pink case and $84 for white case plus shipping which he has at $16. The like about $5 cheaper on his store.
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I think PLU is only 2KRO (no diodes on PCB), and the PCB looks to be of lower quality than Filco's PCB (and Phantom's PCB). It is about US$63 before agent fees and shipping. qtan maybe able to get us a deal.
If you need any further measurements or exact pictures of the plu, I can do it.
BTW, what happens if I get an ISO mount plate and then try to put ANSI keys on it (in the area around the Return-Key)? I'm thinking of Sphericals R4 which don't have J-Return-Key but want ISO mount plate.
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If you need any further measurements or exact pictures of the plu, I can do it.
BTW, what happens if I get an ISO mount plate and then try to put ANSI keys on it (in the area around the Return-Key)? I'm thinking of Sphericals R4 which don't have J-Return-Key but want ISO mount plate.
Please share the measurements so we can compare to a Filco.
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Please share the measurements so we can compare to a Filco.
Yeah I'm definitely interested in a PLU as a case and switch source for a 7bit Phantom.
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Yeah I'm definitely interested in a PLU as a case and switch source for a 7bit Phantom.
cool, but tell me what dimensions you need.
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cool, but tell me what dimensions you need.
Someone who has a Filco to come should probably be asking...
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I am pretty sure these are the exact ones. They look very much the same at least... I wouldn't call for sure what is male and female though. Do plastic or metal parts count? =)
http://se.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=87369-0500virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-87369-0500
http://se.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=89401-0510virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-89401-0510
I had this debate about male and female for like PSU cables. Erm yeah, that seems like it, but 4 pin = /.
But thanks for the help.
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Question I havnt looked into this aspect too much will the phantom have a detachable usb cable?
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Teensy has a mini USB connector on its PCB (not the Phantom PCB). That USB connector is not externally accessible. But detachable? Yes. :-) PrinsValium has talked about using a plastic connector that he mentioned a few posts earlier. He will be able to answer the question better than I can. :smile"
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32747&d=1322016569)
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Teensy has a mini USB connector on its PCB (not the Phantom PCB). That USB connector is not externally accessible. But detachable? Yes. :-) PrinsValium has talked about using a plastic connector that he mentioned a few posts earlier. He will be able to answer the question better than I can. :smile"
Show Image
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32747&d=1322016569)
Yes I know about the teensy from the DOX project we managed to make a jack externally accessible I would like to see that with this project as well.
lister could you please tell dux what dimensions you need from the PLU to compare to a Filco and confirm that it is indeed the same.
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Dimension we would need to confirm the similarity between Filco and PLU:
size of PCB
size of plate
distance between:
ESC and F1
F9 to Pause/Break
ESC and Pause/Break
Pause/Break and Right Arrow
Distance between all the holes on the PCB for the supporting posts on the bottom of the keyboard case
I think that should do it :-) I am assuming the distance between the mounting plate and the PCBm (the innards' thickness) is the same as it is dictated by the switch's height.
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Yes I know about the teensy from the DOX project we managed to make a jack externally accessible I would like to see that with this project as well.
If you use your original Filco case for your Phantom, you would need to cut/mod the Filco case to fit a mini USB jack for externally accessibility. You would also need to extend the mini USB connector on the Teensy to reach the edge of the case and somehow secure the connector the the case. The simpler way to do this, without cutting into your Filco case, would be to just hard wire your USB cable, or connect your USB cable to the mini USB plug on Teensy and use a zip tie to tie it down. Unless we have a custom Phantom case, I don't think this is going to happen. I can't think of a better way to do this. If you other suggestions on how to do it, let us know. Thanks.
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Dimension we would need to confirm the similarity between Filco and PLU:
size of PCB
size of plate
distance between:
ESC and F1
F9 to Pause/Break
ESC and Pause/Break
Pause/Break and Right Arrow
Distance between all the holes on the PCB for the supporting posts on the bottom of the keyboard case
I think that should do it :-) I am assuming the distance between the mounting plate and the PCBm (the innards' thickness) is the same as it is dictated by the switch's height.
Thanks, now we just need dux to dissect his PLU.
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If you use your original Filco case for your Phantom, you would need to cut/mod the Filco case to fit a mini USB jack for externally accessibility. You would also need to extend the mini USB connector on the Teensy to reach the edge of the case and somehow secure the connector the the case. The simpler way to do this, without cutting into your Filco case, would be to just hard wire your USB cable, or connect your USB cable to the mini USB plug on Teensy and use a zip tie to tie it down. Unless we have a custom Phantom case, I don't think this is going to happen. I can't think of a better way to do this. If you other suggestions on how to do it, let us know. Thanks.
How about just a short mini usb extension cable something like this http://tinyurl.com/cpz4xbq , put a zip tie on the inside so that it doesnt pull out and you have a detachable cable no?
Also Im very surprised that you didnt design the PCB so that you could solder the Teensy right on.
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How about just a short mini usb extension cable something like this http://tinyurl.com/cpz4xbq , put a zip tie on the inside so that it doesnt pull out and you have a detachable cable no?
Sure, that works. But I don't know how to tell group buyers what and how to cut their Filco case to do this. I don't know how to secure it to the case so when you disconnect the cable, it is won't fall off into the case. I suppose group buyers are free to do this mod if they want. I am not sure if this should be part of the Phantom's design.
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Sure, that works. But I don't know how to tell group buyers what and how to cut their Filco case to do this. I don't know how to secure it to the case so when you disconnect the cable, it is won't fall off into the case. I suppose group buyers are free to do this mod if they want. I am not sure if this should be part of the Phantom's design.
Wont need to be part of the design or anything. And there is no need to cut the case. You were planning on plugging the cable into the teensy then sending it out the case right? So then just plug this cable into the teensy and sent it out of the case. What were you going to do originally to prevent the cable from being pulled too far out of the case? You should be able to do the same to this cable. Otherwise use a tyewrap on the cable on inside of the case. You were worried about it falling back in, what were you going to do about the normal cable falling back in? Do that, or you could have another tyewrap on the outside, crude but effective.
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Ah, I see what you mean. Have the USB extender sticking out of the case. That would work. So people can just buy this extender if they want to do this. This is pretty clean so there is nothing we need to change with what we have now.
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Ah, I see what you mean. Have the USB extender sticking out of the case. That would work. So people can just buy this extender if they want to do this. This is pretty clean so there is nothing we need to change with what we have now.
Yea, Im not trying to change things, especially if there are simple fixes like this. Also I just used that cable as an example I would have to know what length I would need to end up just outside the case. Then I would go hunting for a quality looking cable that met that specification.
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Do you plan on doing a guide for putting these together when you do the prototypes?
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Heh, a little pigtail. Phantom has a little dongle.
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Heh, a little pigtail. Phantom has a little dongle.
like how short or long though would be optimal for the female end to end up just outside the case?
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so, this is only available for filco keyboard cases... is there a way to get just the case for cheap?
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Do you plan on doing a guide for putting these together when you do the prototypes?
Probably. Placing and soldering the switches and diodes should be very straight forward. The more interesting part will be soldering the Teensy, and loading firmware onto the Teensy. PrinsValium already have a few tips ready for us. A multimeter will be handy.
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I had this debate about male and female for like PSU cables. Erm yeah, that seems like it, but 4 pin = /.
But thanks for the help.
I thought that was the Filco board in the picture... The Filco uses a 5 pin connector. But of course those come in all sorts of pin configurations. But then of course I don't know if it is the same connector on the Filco and PLU.
http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/87369-0400/?qs=TLs3Kb%252bkMqL7rJls%252bAYn8g%3d%3d
http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/89401-0410/?qs=jGANiKWBgchmI%2fn5pLDZzg%3d%3d
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I was supposed to add holes, for a zip tie, to the PCB right were the cable enters the case, to keep it in place. That sort of slipped my mind... I'm not sure if it will work though. There might be a switch blocking it.
I had another idea that would be even better I think. If we include one of these (http://se.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=89401-0510virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-89401-0510) with each order, it should be possible to cut a mini-USB cable and attach that connector to it. Then the Filco original cable, which fits the case hole, can be used without making any modifications to it.
I learned the hard way that it is hard to solder wires to that sucker though.. A very small piece of strip board to connect the cut USB cable and connector to would be a good thing. I can however only find 0.1" pitch ones, the connector is 2mm pitch, but that might just work I guess.
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Sorry to crash on this thread. But you see that white connector connecting the cable to the board, Is it possible to buy that male part (the bit connected to the wire). I'm looking for one so I can do a USB mini mod to my Noppoo choc mini.
I thought that was the Filco board in the picture... The Filco uses a 5 pin connector. But of course those come in all sorts of pin configurations. But then of course I don't know if it is the same connector on the Filco and PLU.
http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/87369-0400/?qs=TLs3Kb%252bkMqL7rJls%252bAYn8g%3d%3d
http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/89401-0410/?qs=jGANiKWBgchmI%2fn5pLDZzg%3d%3d
I'm pretty certain that the Filco connecters are JST not Molex and that ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120809449023) is a source for the correct cable end. That PCB mount connector is a match, however the Filco uses a surface mount version of it (this one is thru-hole). Hope that helps.
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phantom..........47
teensy...........40
ph7bit...........11
phansi...........18
phansiwin.........9
phiso.............2
phisowin..........6
backplate.........1
backscrews........1
diode..........3307
ledblue...........4
mxblack.........371
mxblue..........193
mxbrown.........238
mxclear........1694
mxgreen..........85
mxgrey...........22
mxred..........1404
stab200..........56
stab400...........5
stab625...........8
stab700..........10
case..............5
phantomfun........7
soldering.........5
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OMG! We are at almost 50 PCBs!
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OMG! We are at almost 50 PCBs!
No reason to faint!
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I'm pretty certain that the Filco connecters are JST not Molex and that ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120809449023) is a source for the correct cable end. That PCB mount connector is a match, however the Filco uses a surface mount version of it (this one is thru-hole). Hope that helps.
I think I might have lost the little baggie with the Filco tenkeyless tidbits... But you are correct, the connector on the tenkeyless is surface mounted. On the full size board they are through hole, both on gen1 and gen2. The cable is the same on all boards though, I think. I have those molex connectors on order from mouser. I will have them in a couple of days to see if they are a fit.
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Just looked at something
This is 7bits original layout
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/GeekHack/20111108-230704_deskthoritynet_SIiF.png)
and this is the one after the pcb update
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/GeekHack/Phantom_7BIT_002-1.png)
Can I still align the left shift like the original. I should be able to as this is how it is on ISO layouts but I want to confirm this.
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Otherwise use a tyewrap on the cable on inside of the case. You were worried about it falling back in, what were you going to do about the normal cable falling back in? Do that, or you could have another tyewrap on the outside, crude but effective.
I prefer proper cable glands, though.
The name is pretty awesome, too.
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Just looked at something
This is 7bits original layout
Show Image
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/GeekHack/20111108-230704_deskthoritynet_SIiF.png)
and this is the one after the pcb update
Show Image
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/GeekHack/Phantom_7BIT_002-1.png)
Can I still align the left shift like the original. I should be able to as this is how it is on ISO layouts but I want to confirm this.
Any word on this or is the PLU case will match up?
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We will need someone with a Filco and a PLU to confirm that they are exactly the same. Otherwise treat them as different and incompatible.
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We will need someone with a Filco and a PLU to confirm that they are exactly the same. Otherwise treat them as different and incompatible.
I sent a pm to dux about the dimensions your requested any idea on my 7bit layout question?
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Phantom supports normal ANSI and ISO layouts and 7bit's layout. We currently only have 5 layout designs for plates: ANSI and ISO with 1.25x modifiers, ANSI and ISO with 1.5x modifiers, and 7bit's layout. If your layout can't be done with one of these 5 plates, it is not going to work. So if you want 7bit's front row but a different configuration than 7bit's layout for the other rows, I don't they it is going work.
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I sent a pm to dux about the dimensions your requested any idea on my 7bit layout question?
sorry, but first was geekhack.org down for a while, now I don't have time till tomorrow. I'll do it tomorrow till midnight.
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I sent a pm to dux about the dimensions your requested any idea on my 7bit layout question?
You can put a 1.25 units key on the key left of (left-)Shift and a 1 unit key on the Shift key. But there will be gaps and yur Shift key will exceed to the left a bit (1/8-th of a key).
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Phantom supports normal ANSI and ISO layouts and 7bit's layout. We currently only have 5 layout designs for plates: ANSI and ISO with 1.25x modifiers, ANSI and ISO with 1.5x modifiers, and 7bit's layout. If your layout can't be done with one of these 5 plates, it is not going to work. So if you want 7bit's front row but a different configuration than 7bit's layout for the other rows, I don't they it is going work.
You can put a 1.25 units key on the key left of (left-)Shift and a 1 unit key on the Shift key. But there will be gaps and yur Shift key will exceed to the left a bit (1/8-th of a key).
Then how does the ISO layout still work? as that row should be the same as that minus right shift
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You can put a 1.25 units key on the key left of (left-)Shift and a 1 unit key on the Shift key. But there will be gaps and yur Shift key will exceed to the left a bit (1/8-th of a key).
I have ben told the plate is the problem. Why did you choose to not put the Left Shift where it is on a ISO layout?
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Then how does the ISO layout still work? as that row should be the same as that minus right shift
7BIT layout is not ISO (1.25 Shift followed by 1 unit < >) and not ANSI (2.25 units Shift).
One way would be to make a long hole to have the opprtunity to mount the 2 switches at nay position you like. The clips whoich hold them on the mount plate are on top and bottom, so this should not be too much of a problem, but I'm only a layout expert, no mountplate expert.
I have ben told the plate is the problem. Why did you choose to not put the Left Shift where it is on a ISO layout?
Because I prefer to have a larger Shift key. The other key serves as Shift Word which in emacs just holds shift until I hit space or return. Also, the whole thing becomes a little bit more symmetric.
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Plate layouts added to the second post in this thread.
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Plate layouts added to the second post in this thread.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32943&d=1322255552)
^^^ This is not 7BIT layout!!!
See?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/GeekHack/Phantom_7BIT_002-1.png)
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Please ask PrinsValium to update the 7bit plate.
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PH7BIT updated in 2nd post.
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Both plates would fit Cherry and Wire stabilizers I presume?
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Yes, that is the plan. I will test that out when I receive one of the first test plates.
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DXF files of the plates are in the zip file.
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I made this with cardboard on Thursday Thanksgiving day as a prototype, just to see if it is possible.(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33031&d=1322341205)Now I have it in QCAD.Top layer:(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33034&d=1322358325)For Filco Tenkeyless, this layer needs to be thicker to raise the top layer higher because of Filco's controller. This layer can be thinner for Phantom since its controller is under the PCB:(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33035&d=1322358326)Cut out for Phantom's controller on the left, Filco's 5-pin plug on the right, plus cable routing. I need to know how much the Teensy controller stick out from the keyboard PCB because I can tell how thick this layer need to me.(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33037&d=1322358326)The bottom layer:(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33038&d=1322358327)If it is made with transparent acrylic and you look at it through the bottom layout, it would like like this:(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33036&d=1322358326)Hum, I think I need to move a screw hole...
EDIT: Added a screw hole, and now a 7bit top layer:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33040&d=1322371513)
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My hero <3
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I just don't know how much it would cost to make one.
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The cardboard case needs a wiki article! Looks like an awesome hack.
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I just don't know how much it would cost to make one.
Cost is not an issue for custom cases!!!!!!
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Cost is not an issue for custom cases!!!!!!
Seconded.
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Well, don't get your hope too high. I don't know if this is a good design yet, and what quality it would turn out to be.
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Well, don't get your hope too high. I don't know if this is a good design yet, and what quality it would turn out to be.
prototype cost would go into the cost of the casing for everyone, im sure after 3-4 prototype it will be perfected, and acrylic you can't really go wrong
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PH7BIT updated in 2nd post.
I believe the picture and pcb dont match
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I believe the picture and pcb dont match
How so?
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How so?
picture
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/5/51/Phantom_7BIT.png/541px-Phantom_7BIT.png)
plate
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32967&d=1322274450)
the plate is correct bu the picture is wrong as the left **** is in the wrong place
also is there any way that you could design a plate for me as in 7bit with ISO style left shift
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LOL! I have a bug in one of the layouts. I will have to fix it or it would look goofy.
I don't know if we can make another plate. PrinsValium would have to do it. And adding another plate would introduce more complexity for ordering, inventory, shipping, and potentially opening up to other people wanting their own plate designs. honestly, as one of the organizers, I think this group buy is getting too complicated. You should work it out with 7bit to see if you can share the same plate design with him.
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LOL! I have a bug in one of the layouts. I will have to fix it or it would look goofy.
I don't know if we can make another plate. PrinsValium would have to do it. And adding another plate would introduce more complexity for ordering, inventory, shipping, and potentially opening up to other people wanting their own plate designs. honestly, as one of the organizers, I think this group buy is getting too complicated. You should work it out with 7bit to see if you can share the same plate design with him.
no im only asking for the file I will get on my own if needed
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The cardboard case needs a wiki article! Looks like an awesome hack.
I'm gonna go with that for sure now, until an acrylic case is made (I'll do it by hand if I have to!)
It's either that or tack welding feet directly onto the plate with a car battery.
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I did the cardboard case as a prove of concept. It is pretty easy to make it if you have a keyboard and can open it up. I turned the top case upside down and used a pencil to trace the cutouts on a piece of cardboard. Then I just cut the holes out with a cutter. For the 2rd layer, you need a few of them if your cardboards are not thick enough. And you need to have the 3rd layout as you need to make room for the teensy controller or the Filco USB cable connector. It is a little more problematic to make it work for Filco because Filco's controller takes up space north of the arrow key switches, so layer 2 is a little thicker than it would be for Phantom, and would make the strip between the function keys and the number keys on the top layer a little floppy because it is not laying on the mounting plate. For the Phantom the top layer could lay flat on the metal mounting plate. But I haven't figured out what to do with the LED holes. The smaller the Phantom's LEDs are, the better. If they are too big, then there is no room for the holes on the thin strip.
Ah, wait! With transparent acrylic, I don't need holes! How close to the PCB can the LEDs be? If they are below the mounting plate, then I don't need LED holes at all.
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7BIT layout is not ISO (1.25 Shift followed by 1 unit ) and not ANSI (2.25 units Shift).
One way would be to make a long hole to have the opprtunity to mount the 2 switches at nay position you like. The clips whoich hold them on the mount plate are on top and bottom, so this should not be too much of a problem, but I'm only a layout expert, no mountplate expert.
Because I prefer to have a larger Shift key. The other key serves as Shift Word which in emacs just holds shift until I hit space or return. Also, the whole thing becomes a little bit more symmetric.
What's the function in Emacs called for shift word?
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Are you suppose to get a email confirmation from Phantom?
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This is a 7bit question :-). When was the last time you submitted an order PM to PHANTOM? I sent an order update to PHANTOM a few days ago and got an updated invoice within a couple hours, IIRC.
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What's the function in Emacs called for shift word?
SHIFT LOCK, but it turns back to normal when I hit SPACE or RETURN.
Example:
[Shift Word]SPH/TERMINAL 1
[Shift Word]SPH/POS 2
[Shift Word]SPH/SPACE 2
[Shift Word]SHIFT [Shift Word]LOCK, but it turns back to normal when I hit [Shift Word]SPACE or [Shift Word]RETURN.
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I did the cardboard case as a prove of concept. It is pretty easy to make it if you have a keyboard and can open it up. I turned the top case upside down and used a pencil to trace the cutouts on a piece of cardboard. Then I just cut the holes out with a cutter. For the 2rd layer, you need a few of them if your cardboards are not thick enough. And you need to have the 3rd layout as you need to make room for the teensy controller or the Filco USB cable connector. It is a little more problematic to make it work for Filco because Filco's controller takes up space north of the arrow key switches, so layer 2 is a little thicker than it would be for Phantom, and would make the strip between the function keys and the number keys on the top layer a little floppy because it is not laying on the mounting plate. For the Phantom the top layer could lay flat on the metal mounting plate. But I haven't figured out what to do with the LED holes. The smaller the Phantom's LEDs are, the better. If they are too big, then there is no room for the holes on the thin strip.
Ah, wait! With transparent acrylic, I don't need holes! How close to the PCB can the LEDs be? If they are below the mounting plate, then I don't need LED holes at all.
Mouser has some 1mm wide LED's which should work pretty well if you tip them over.
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/LED-Indication/Standard-LED-Through-Hole/_/N-75pv5?P=1z0rxq6
I was planning on lighting up the underside of the board anyway, so you can see if scroll lock is on by looking for the light coming through the bottom
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I still haven't got time to measure the plu. But I am doing something, here is the proof:
How to open the plu (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO7cg0e4VhY)
How to open the PLU.
Don't use any keypullers on the original PLU keycaps, because you will pull some of the nipples of the switches out. Use the method from the video.
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SHIFT LOCK, but it turns back to normal when I hit SPACE or RETURN.
Example:
[Shift Word]SPH/TERMINAL 1
[Shift Word]SPH/POS 2
[Shift Word]SPH/SPACE 2
[Shift Word]SHIFT [Shift Word]LOCK, but it turns back to normal when I hit [Shift Word]SPACE or [Shift Word]RETURN.
Is this some kind of Linux specific?
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I still haven't got time to measure the plu. But I am doing something, here is the proof:
How to open the plu (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO7cg0e4VhY)
How to open the PLU.
Don't use any keypullers on the original PLU keycaps, because you will pull some of the nipples of the switches out. Use the method from the video.
Opened the Rosewills that I have almost the same way.
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The plate for PHISO125 seems to be wrong, because I see no ISO enter there, but an ANSI one...
And the left shift is wrong too...
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Is this some kind of Linux specific?
No, it is Emacs-7bit edition specific :-)
I did not yet find a way to make this system wide.
I'm not sure if it is possible to do it in the Teensy controller ....
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No, it is Emacs-7bit edition specific :-)
I did not yet find a way to make this system wide.
I'm not sure if it is possible to do it in the Teensy controller ....
Hehe ok.
I'm planning to add such features. Just have to add 'modes' to the firmware so every feature I add is not a dirty hack :)
I've already added shift lock with led and simple macros.
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Modes? Now you're speaking my language (vim user here). I'm going to have a lot of fun hacking on the Teensy, methinks.
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Modes? Now you're speaking my language (vim user here). I'm going to have a lot of fun hacking on the Teensy, methinks.
Like in normal mode everything you type is sent to the computer, but in shift lock mode the controller checks each key first and for instance turns off shift if a shift key is pressed.
Or in shift word mode space reverts to normal mode.
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I'm pretty certain that the Filco connecters are JST not Molex and that ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120809449023) is a source for the correct cable end. That PCB mount connector is a match, however the Filco uses a surface mount version of it (this one is thru-hole). Hope that helps.
I tried the Molex connectors with my Filco cables. The are not the same, the color is different for one thing. But they seem to fit perfectly, even the little latches hook on like they should.
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Not surprising that the 2 companies have compatible connectors. Glad that there's an alternative because of that.
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We should be able to get Cherry stabilizers, potentially Costar stablizers from taobao. The problem is we can't get metal bars for stablizers especially the long ones for 6.25x and 7.0x spacebars. Anyone knows the size of these metal bars and if we could bend/cut our own?
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I've been cutting my own from rods I get from the hobby shop, you just need a wire cutter and 2 pliers
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Meet the Phantom... case.
Need to eat dinner. More pictures later.
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Looks awesome litster! So the next step in this project is the PCB/plate prototypes, right? TheProfosist, did the 7bit layout/plate questions get settled?
And do we have any guesstimate of when money will actually be collected? Trying to manage my keyboard budget here...
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I learned a lot doing the cut myself tonight. And I now have more questions and logistic issues to resolve. First test plates should be done this week. If things go well, we could be ordering test PCBs next week. But we are still a little ways away from collecting money.
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Little ways as in weeks or months?
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I say at least 1.5 months away.
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Sounds good, thanks.
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Looks awesome litster! So the next step in this project is the PCB/plate prototypes, right? TheProfosist, did the 7bit layout/plate questions get settled?
And do we have any guesstimate of when money will actually be collected? Trying to manage my keyboard budget here...
No I dont think the plate thing got settled. I believe someone brought up the idea of making the plate so that the left shift could be on the inside or the out side. If that cant be done I still want left shift on the outside like ISO I would at least like a plate design that I can submit and get cut myself as I assume not that many people want the layout that I do. The only reason that I ask about this is because the two people and I would prefer the left shift to be on the outside like ISO.
Also I know that we might have a acrylic case now but it would stil be good to know if the PLU has the same case as a Filco. Also do we have any possible prices on a complete Acrylic case?
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Yes, we will get you the plate dxf files. Either we make the change for you, or you can make the change. It should be fairly easy.
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Yes, we will get you the plate dxf files. Either we make the change for you, or you can make the change. It should be fairly easy.
Thanks alot, It would be great if you could make the changes as I have no experience and dont have the time to gain it currently. Now I can finalize both my Phantom 7bit and DOX layouts and should be able to start a DOX soon.
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A couple more pictures:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33592&d=1322719563)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33593&d=1322719564)
Thing I need to do or think about:
- 2nd layer needs to be a tad thicker for Filco. Not a problem with the actual Phantom.
- lower screws count from 11 to 8, don't really need that many screws.
- right now the PCB is sitting on the bottom layer. A better way to do this is to glue a few acrylic posts to support the plate instead. Need to engrave the post positions. Notices the PCB has already scratched the bottom layer. If we do this, the 3rd layer needs to be thicker.
- need to move the cable cut out to center. I underestimated how long the cable is.
- the second layer needs to be a tad wider and longer than it is now. maybe 0.5mm. Right now it is a super tight fit. Need final plate and PCB to determined final size.
- Need to back legs. Currently it is too flat.
- The top layer is OK, but I can move some key holes a little bit to center the holes to keycaps. Need to way for the final plate cut to determine final key hole locations.
Round out the inside corners for the 3rd layer.
- I need better screws. Please, any suggestions for better screws? these from Lowe's sucks. They are too long and I had to Dremel them.
- I got my Teensy today. The 3rd layer's thickness is perfect.
- should we make the case both Phantom and Filco compatible?
- as much as I have cut out, the case is HEAVY! Is that good?
- the Phantom wording took a long time to cut, especially because that layer is so thick, the laser need to run slower to cut it. It barely cut through. For the final version, I don't think the word Phantom will be cut. Maybe engraved.
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So now the keyboard case will be in acrylic?
I'm not a fan of transparent cases, just acrylic keyboard roofs.
I have not work with acrylic before, but is it possible to add color to it?
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Yes
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You could use colored acrylic, I suppose. The same drawing could be use to watercut aluminum plates, just like the mounting plate. But cutting aluminum plates could be more expensive. I am not sure. Will need to check with BiNiaRiS to see if his shop could do it. Some of the acrylic layers are as thick as half an inch. Not sure how much that would cost with watercutting aluminum.
But with aluminum, you could anodize it to interesting colors.
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I've been cutting my own from rods I get from the hobby shop, you just need a wire cutter and 2 pliers
So it is doable. That is good. What is the diameter for the rods?
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I just realized I mentioned the wrong kind of color.
What I meant by color, is for the acrylic to be completely opaque, will this be troublesome?
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Thanks alot, It would be great if you could make the changes as I have no experience and dont have the time to gain it currently. Now I can finalize both my Phantom 7bit and DOX layouts and should be able to start a DOX soon.
You will need to ask PrinsValium to do that change for you. I know how to do it in QCAD, but I don't know for sure where to move/change for the switch locations.
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I just realized I mentioned the wrong kind of color.
What I meant by color, is for the acrylic to be completely opaque, will this be troublesome?
Take a look here: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=49
There are opaque colors to choose from. Now that I know how to make one for myself, I don't yet know how to mass produce it and still have an affordable price. But the time I have the final drawing, this will have cost me over $200 just in material, due to trial and errors.
We still have time. Next up is the mounting plate, and then PCBs. Thing are coming togther though. I am super excited that my drawing and design actually works. and that I am totally exhausted mentally... :-)
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Litster, you're gonna make the OTD guys jealous for once. Excellent case!
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The plate for PHISO125 seems to be wrong, because I see no ISO enter there, but an ANSI one...
And the left shift is wrong too...
Litster I think you simply uploaded the wrong screenshot, PHISO125 and PHANSI125 both are the same image.
No I dont think the plate thing got settled. I believe someone brought up the idea of making the plate so that the left shift could be on the inside or the out side. If that cant be done I still want left shift on the outside like ISO I would at least like a plate design that I can submit and get cut myself as I assume not that many people want the layout that I do. The only reason that I ask about this is because the two people and I would prefer the left shift to be on the outside like ISO.
Also I know that we might have a acrylic case now but it would stil be good to know if the PLU has the same case as a Filco. Also do we have any possible prices on a complete Acrylic case?
Yes, we will get you the plate dxf files. Either we make the change for you, or you can make the change. It should be fairly easy.
This has been done I think. You should have the dxf litster, could you please update the second post? Tell me if there is something more I need to do...
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Okay, I will check tomorrow, I am not surprised if I screwed it up :P There are so many files :-). I have even more files with the case... I am about to go to bed... zzzzzzz....
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That acrylic case looks AMAZING. Do want.
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@Lister
How is the plate/PCB attached to the case? I don't see any connection points...
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So it is doable. That is good. What is the diameter for the rods?
i used the 1/16 rods, they fit real well
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making the case both phantom and filco compatible would give us more buyers and maybe drive down the price
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The shoulder bolt may be difficult due to the thickness of the shoulder if you're going to counter-sink it. An undercut flat-head may be a better choice to get the flat/countersunk finish. Definitely MC for the screws and so forth :)
Another interesting thing with painting acrylic is painting the internal surfaces only.
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@Lister
How is the plate/PCB attached to the case? I don't see any connection points...
See the 3rd bullet in my post here http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=461761&viewfull=1#post461761
making the case both phantom and filco compatible would give us more buyers and maybe drive down the price
The bottom 2 layers are compatible between the two. The top are kind off compatible. The Filco top two layers should work for Phantom, but not perfectly. I think I will decide later once the Phantom prototype is built with PCB and plate.
What I want to know is, is $250 shipped for this case too expensive? It should be less than that, but shipping is going to be expensive as acrylic is heavy, more so for EU folks. If this could be made in EU then the EU orders would in cur less for shipping. To me $250 is too much for this case. Especially because it is not perfect. It will require some polishing. As a kit you can make for fun, yes it is worth it. As a final, fully finished product, it isn't. Well, I haven't been able to make it so anyway.
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alaricljs and harrison, thanks for the screw ideas. I will check out MC. Counter sink is hard to do because of layers. I could use a thicker top layer, but laser can't cut count sink, so it will have to be done manually (with a drill bit or is there a better way to do it?).
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What I want to know is, is $250 shipped for this case too expensive?
Yes, but with that said I would still pay it. I wasn't going to do this phantom thing but your case has convinced me and now I am very interested.
Will this case be Filco Compatible in the final version? or will it be necessary to order the phantom pcb?
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Yes, but with that said I would still pay it. I wasn't going to do this phantom thing but your case has convinced me and now I am very interested.
Will this case be Filco Compatible in the final version? or will it be necessary to order the phantom pcb?
I think I can make it fit both, there will be some compromises though. The top 2 layers could fit Phantom better if it is Phantom-specific. But I bet other people don't notice the difference.
Oh, I don't think I made it clear. The pictures I took of the case has a Filco 1 installed in it, not the Phantom. Just in case people are wondering.
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This might sound like blasphemy, but I like my Filco and would really only want to replace the case as I am satisfied with the layout and programming of the keyboard.
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There are specific bits for countersinking that match the angle of the screw head. You can get a selection at Home Depot, here's a pic from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-589201-5-Piece-Titanium-Countersinks/dp/B0015AOAT6/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1322758793&sr=1-4).
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There are specific bits for countersinking that match the angle of the screw head. You can get a selection at Home Depot, here's a pic from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-589201-5-Piece-Titanium-Countersinks/dp/B0015AOAT6/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1322758793&sr=1-4).
Thanks for the link. If I do this, I would need a thicker top plate than I have now, and more manual labor... :-) I wonder how well acrylic would hold up if I jsut screw into acrylic, kind of like the IBM Model screws screw directly into the plastic case. What do you call that kind of screws?
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Self tapping screws for plastic. You typically drill pilot holes the diameter of the screw shank (the diameter of the screw if you subtract the threads). As always, McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/#tapping-screws/=f6beh9) has a wide selection. Skip over the sheet metal screws and you'll find several 'for plastics'.
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Thanks for the link. If I do this, I would need a thicker top plate than I have now, and more manual labor... :-) I wonder how well acrylic would hold up if I jsut screw into acrylic, kind of like the IBM Model screws screw directly into the plastic case. What do you call that kind of screws?
They're called Shank-Screws (http://www.mcmaster.com/#tapping-screws/=f6bolv), it's a kind of self-tapping screw.
EDIT: LOL Ninja'd
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Cool, I need to get some of those tappering screws and test with my acrylic to see if they would crack the case.
What do you guys think about detactable USB cable? Take a look at the picture of the back side of my case. The Filco cable has this notchy thing on it and I designed the cut out to make that notchy thing fit perfectly. But for Phantom I don't know what cable to use. There is already a mini USB connector the Teensy. So the simplest way to do this is to just plug a minu USB cable into the Teensy and close the case up and be done with, maybe a zip tie to tie it down or make it so you can yank it out of the case.
I would love to hear ideas on how it could be done, as I would need to accomodate this feature with the case design.
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The case looks fantastic, i'll absolutely be ordering one. I think an etched/engraved logo will be much better than a fully cut logo anyhow.
I think the screws that get used should be Countersunk flat-head, but that of course requires the use of a countersink on the top plate, which is likely going to be an issue. The biggest benefit is that the top surface of the case will be flat after the screws are installed. Perhaps I can do this on my own by using my own hardware. McMaster-Carr is likely going to be the best way to get a mass order of hardware of a known quality.
Alternatively, a shoulder bolt (http://www.mcmaster.com/#shoulder-screws/=f69zrp) might be kind of cool, and could eliminate the possibility of over-tightening and cracking the top layer.
For run-of-the-mill, a panhead (http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screw-fasteners/=f69z47) bolt will likely do the trick.
Also, painting acrylic is very simple. A little masking and light sanding, and you could easily paint the layers prior to assembly. I personally think i'd prefer a smoked black case rather than full-clear. I'm not sure whether doing an order with varying materials is going to result in a significantly higher per-unit cost, as you won't be able to buy as much quantity of any one material.
Yeah, I was looking into rather doing it with shoulder hex bolts, 'cause it'll look really professional when done. Why flathead, unless you man the top of the screwhead being flat, not the slotted screw type.
I still very well might end up building my own, but an official case would still be excellent.
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Litster I think you simply uploaded the wrong screenshot, PHISO125 and PHANSI125 both are the same image.
Fixed. Please check to confirm.
This has been done I think. You should have the dxf litster, could you please update the second post? Tell me if there is something more I need to do...
Zip file has been attached to the 2nd post as well.
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I am not sure if screwing in acrylic is the best idea. You can press in brass fittings and screw into that.
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I am not sure if screwing in acrylic is the best idea. You can press in brass fittings and screw into that.
laffindude, any sample pictures you can point me to? Thanks.
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http://www.professionalfastenerservices.co.uk/images/M4%20inserst.jpg
I think they're called brass inserts. Basically it has perpendicular grooves on the outside to hold it in place against the direction of your screw direction.
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i got back the first test plates today. they are rough around the edges, but that can be sanded down easily. gonna shoot these off to litster and we can get this rolling if they check out.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33670[/ATTACH]
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i got back the first test plates today. they are rough around the edges, but that can be sanded down easily. gonna shoot these off to litster and we can get this rolling if they check out.
(Attachment) 33670[/ATTACH]
Sweeeet! Thanks BiNiaRiS!
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This has been done I think. You should have the dxf litster, could you please update the second post? Tell me if there is something more I need to do...
Thanks now I just have to find out a place to send this off to to get cut
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The more I look at the acrylic case, the more I think it looks weird. Then I realized because it is so flat, and the front is so high comparing to the actual Filco case.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33683&d=1322803604)
I don't like it!!!!
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Flat is okay, but I also notice that it's a lot higher. What's all the space under the board used for?
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the koreans uses something thinner for the last layer, then uses feets to tilt it
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The last layer is the bottom, the layer about that layer, with the phantom text cutout, is about 3/8" think, because I need to cut out the area about the Phantom text to make room for either the Filco connector or the Phantom's Teensy controller. Because of my flat design, to make from for these two items, even though they are toward the back of the case, the same thickness is all there for the front. It sucks.
I need a different design. The Phatom design should fit the Filco case perfectly. But my Acrylic case design is not like Filco's case.
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I agree. The bottom plate could be much thinner. I think that you need only a smaller box on the underside around the controller and cable. The keyboard case would of course tilt forwards and require rubber feet
I think that for stability, the box on the underside should extend to the left and right more than the required space, but for looks, it should not extend all the way, leaving a cm or so on the left and right ends. Alternatively, use large screw-on feet on the left and right sides.
I think that the plate could be suspended from the bottom plate with nylon spacers (commonly found in hardware stores) put inside the four large holes in the PCB.
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Did you change the estimated price for the kits?
OP says 125$ for PHISOREDKIT, but the mail I got today says 150$.
I know the prices are only estimated, but it would be good to have the latest estimation in the OP - that people finding this thread and getting interested get the right idea of prices...
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I am changing the design. That Phantom text cut out will be gone. The material for that piece was over $25 and the lasercut time is very long, for it is both thick, and a lot of lines to trace. The new design, if I do it right, should have a sloped key surface as the front row will sink in lower.
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Lister, when you are done with the case would you please share the CAD drawings?
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The $25 I mention previously is just for one of the 4 layers. Material cost for the whole case that I cut 2 days ago is about $55.
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I've looked through most of this threading hoping to find anything about the case design for the ANSI layout without windows keys. Does anyone have any suggestions for that? If plexi case comes together, perhaps there will need to be a separate top plate with coveres for those spaces?
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Plu Dimensions:
size of PCB 122 * 345 mm , one or 2 mm more would not be a problem
size of plate 128 * 349 mm, the 128 should be rather precise cut
distance between:
ESC and F1: 38 mm
F9 to Pause/Break : 119 mm
ESC and Pause/Break : 328.5 mm
Pause/Break and Right Arrow: 104 mm
Distance between all the holes on the PCB for the supporting posts on the bottom of the keyboard case
I measuerd all holes from the middle of the hole.
All upper holes have the distance of 22.5mm from the upper edge of the PCB.
The distances of the upper 3 holes from left (CapsLock side) to the right side are:
left edge to 1st hole: 56mm, 1st hole to 2nd hole: 115.5mm, 2nd hole to the 3rd hole: 115.5mm, 3rd hole to the right edge: 58.5mm.
Lower right (CapsLock Side) hole: 13mm to the bottom edge, 58.5mm to the right edge.
Lower left hole: 36mm to the left edge, 37.5mm to the bottom edge.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33926[/ATTACH]
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I've looked through most of this threading hoping to find anything about the case design for the ANSI layout without windows keys. Does anyone have any suggestions for that? If plexi case comes together, perhaps there will need to be a separate top plate with coveres for those spaces?
*If* the acrylic case come together, creating a design for ANSI with no Win key shouldn't be a problem. Whether it would be made is a different question. When it come to pass, remind me.
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Plu Dimensions:
size of PCB 122 * 345 mm , one or 2 mm more would not be a problem
size of plate 128 * 349 mm, the 128 should be rather precise cut
distance between:
ESC and F1: 38 mm
F9 to Pause/Break : 119 mm
ESC and Pause/Break : 328.5 mm
Pause/Break and Right Arrow: 104 mm
Distance between all the holes on the PCB for the supporting posts on the bottom of the keyboard case
I measuerd all holes from the middle of the hole.
All upper holes have the distance of 22.5mm from the upper edge of the PCB.
The distances of the upper 3 holes from left (CapsLock side) to the right side are:
left edge to 1st hole: 56mm, 1st hole to 2nd hole: 115.5mm, 2nd hole to the 3rd hole: 115.5mm, 3rd hole to the right edge: 58.5mm.
Lower right (CapsLock Side) hole: 13mm to the bottom edge, 58.5mm to the right edge.
Lower left hole: 36mm to the left edge, 37.5mm to the bottom edge.
(Attachment) 33926[/ATTACH]
Thanks Dux! I still need to match your measurements with my Filco case, but they sound about the same as Filco. You picture helps too. PLU has its controller under the PCB, which could be a problem. The cable connector seems to be at the same location as Filco. The plate also has its top and bottom bend down, just like Filco's.
Do you have a Filco that you can compare your PLU to? Thanks.
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Do you have a Filco that you can compare your PLU to? Thanks.
I dont't but would do more measurings or pictures as long my plu is open (but I would like to put it together again rather soon:).
btw why post editor works only in safari? is it only me?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33986[/ATTACH]
PLU has its controller under the PCB, which could be a problem
why do you think that?
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Im glad that we are getting somewhere with the PLU case. I have a few lined up if they end up matching.
If anyone cares I finally updated my layout ow that the ISO like left shift is possible http://tinyurl.com/d4geptb .
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*If* the acrylic case come together, creating a design for ANSI with no Win key shouldn't be a problem. Whether it would be made is a different question. When it come to pass, remind me.
If I get a case, I'd be fine sanding out the extra lines for the 7bit layout.
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I am still working on the case. I need some help. I am looking through so of the Korean keyboards, and I wonder if anyone knows what kind of nuts and bolts are these? And if these nuts and bolts could be obtained in the USA? Thanks.
http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=photo&page=2&document_srl=3253909
Click the top of the images to zoom in.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34091&d=1323162489)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34092&d=1323162532)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34093&d=1323162645)
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I am looking through so of the Korean keyboards, and I wonder if anyone knows what kind of nuts and bolts are these? And if these nuts and bolts could be obtained in the USA?
In the US they're called “cap screws” or more specifically “hex cap screws” (or bolts), and are available anywhere that sells fasteners.
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They look like allen headed bolts to me.
a.k.a hex headed screws
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OK, I think I know how they do it. The top two layers and the bottom two layers are glued together, and the top most and the bottom most layer have bigger holes so the nuts are sunk into the first layer, and the second layer has just small holes for screws to go through.
Good pictures here: http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=photo&page=4&document_srl=3239585
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34094&d=1323163817)
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BTW - some of those nuts are normal and some are acorn lock nuts. The lock part is a disk of nylon jammed in the nut that the threads of the screw are driven through and it holds the nut against vibration.
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Thanks alaricljs. Acorn lock nuts are much thicker, right?
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Yeah, you have a standard thickness hex portion and then a bulbous protrusion out one end that holds the plastic, makes it about double-thick.
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I should be able to find these acorn lock nuts on mcmaster.com? I will need to get some to incorporate them to the design.
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=f8wcdc - Just find the cheapest version, but there are thin ones available if you need that :)
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I might have solved the thickness problem. If you can't make a slope, make steps instead. This case is going to be junked and I will have to make a new one. This one has so many test holes in it, but it is a worthy prototype.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34174[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34175[/ATTACH]
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I might have solved the thickness problem. If you can't make a slope, make steps instead. This case is going to be junked and I will have to make a new one. This one has so many test holes in it, but it is a worthy prototype.
(Attachment) 34174[/ATTACH]
(Attachment) 34175[/ATTACH]
did you build it with hand and electric tools or do you have your own little cnc?
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It was built by hand, QCAD, and a laser cutter.
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So you have your 'own little laser cutter.' Thats pretty awesome. The case looks REALLY good. The shadow looks like there is rubber foot or something in the very back?
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I don't have a personal laser cutter. I do have access to one. I have rubber feet under the case, but I think what you see is the hex nut at the back. I still need to make a few changes, but the overal shape looks to be very close to final. Ordering the exact screws with the exact length is going to be interesting, especially because these acrylic pieces' thinkness varies quite a bit. A 3/8" is more like 5/16".
I think next test case I build will be in color acrylic. Clear looks a little "dirty" when I have to glue a few parts together.
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Colored? Interesting. I don't know what colors acrylic comes in, but I just looked some up. I was just imagining what tinted plastic might look like if I painted the inside of it silver... hmmm.
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I don't have a personal laser cutter. I do have access to one. I have rubber feet under the case, but I think what you see is the hex nut at the back. I still need to make a few changes, but the overal shape looks to be very close to final. Ordering the exact screws with the exact length is going to be interesting, especially because these acrylic pieces' thinkness varies quite a bit. A 3/8" is more like 5/16".
I think next test case I build will be in color acrylic. Clear looks a little "dirty" when I have to glue a few parts together.
Opaque acrylics will be good to hide those dirty parts
Will you be using this?
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I might have solved the thickness problem. If you can't make a slope, make steps instead. This case is going to be junked and I will have to make a new one. This one has so many test holes in it, but it is a worthy prototype.
(Attachment) 34174[/ATTACH]
(Attachment) 34175[/ATTACH]
I think that the bottom steps on the back should not extend all the way to the left and right, if that is possible. It would look better if they started a cm or so underneath the large bottom.
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yea, make it just the middle part of the bottom so it gives an illusion of the keyboard is floating :D
like that pic you posted
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34092&d=1323162532)
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Opaque acrylics will be good to hide those dirty parts
Will you be using this?
I will take a look what colors they have. Will try opaque. Brown with yellow middle layer? Blue with white middle layer? But I don't think it would be possible to make custom color cases later for people. Heck, I don't even know right now how to make a bunch of these clear acrylic. It takes about 30 minutes to cut all all the pieces. I will have to find a company to cut them in bulk.
I think that the bottom steps on the back should not extend all the way to the left and right, if that is possible. It would look better if they started a cm or so underneath the large bottom.
yea, make it just the middle part of the bottom so it gives an illusion of the keyboard is floating :D
like that pic you posted
Good idea! I will give that a try. The bottom half is to make room for the Filco connector or Phantom's Teensy controller. Making it narrower will not make use of the rigidness of the outside frame. Let me think about that.
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I will take a look what colors they have. Will try opaque. Brown with yellow middle layer? Blue with white middle layer? But I don't think it would be possible to make custom color cases later for people. Heck, I don't even know right now how to make a bunch of these clear acrylic. It takes about 30 minutes to cut all all the pieces. I will have to find a company to cut them in bulk.
Start a poll, get the most and 2nd most popular color.
Then, do not change your mind no matter what, if it ever gets mass produced.
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I don't think I can shorten the bottom steps. The case would not be sturdy enough. In fact I need to add a screw on each side to hold the upper part and the lower step together.
BTW, I got these screws and nuts:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91249a123/=f9i240
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91249a119/=f9i2e1
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3183/=f9i2gw
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and do you have any idea where we can find the beautifull little feet from Korean cases? I've never seen stuff like that in France…
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I know everyone is into the custom acrylic case at the moment but has anyone measured their filco to see how it compares to the PLU measurements that were posted?
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and do you have any idea where we can find the beautifull little feet from Korean cases? I've never seen stuff like that in France…
I saw some photos of those being made somewhere, so I'm almost certain they were milled along with the keyboards.
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Any suggestions for female mini USB connector / cable that can be attached (glued or screwed) to the inside of the acrylic keyboard?
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Anyone know a source for PCB-mounted Cherry MX Green switches?
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Any suggestions for female mini USB connector / cable that can be attached (glued or screwed) to the inside of the acrylic keyboard?
I thought about buying an active USB hub with all ports at one side and put its PCB into the phantom.
But I am still searching for a cheap and small version.
Just as example for the positioning of the ports: (this one has to many ports / is too big and is too expensive)
http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=158910
One of the ports would be connected internally to the teensy.
This way you would have a detachable cable and a USB hub (if you want with own power supply, but also possible without)
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This is the one I got: http://www.amazon.com/4-Port-Slim-USB-Hub/dp/B0042YW2EM/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1323353739&sr=8-33 ordered through Amazon from CTC-global (they're the cheaper price).
The short cable it came with is flaky, the hub itself works fine. I've already cut one port off the board in preparation for sticking it in my KB. It's nicely compact. Having a mini USB B port may or may not be a plus to you.
Oh yeah... and if you mean powered when you say active, this one is not.
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Powered is not necessary, but why not if I could find a fitting one.
If not I wold try find a good unpowered one.
More important would be the layout of the ports.
How do you plan to place the hub you posted?
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This one looks great:
http://www.reichelt.de/?ACTION=3;ARTICLE=75010;GROUPID=4831;PROVID=4;&utm_source=Preisvergleich&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=preissuchmaschine-guenstiger.de
With another two ports pointing to the back side. One of these would be perfekt for the internal connection to the teensy!
I would absolutely prefer a solution with USB hub over a simple mini USB connector!
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Anyone know a source for PCB-mounted Cherry MX Green switches?
Any idea what the MOQ would be to get some from cherry?
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Any idea what the MOQ would be to get some from cherry?
1000 switch per color minimum.
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1000 switch per color minimum.
Hmm... Greens probably won't be that popular...
I had a thought of doing the letter/number keys with blues, and all of the mods and F keys in greens.
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Plu Dimensions:
size of PCB 122 * 345 mm , one or 2 mm more would not be a problem
size of plate 128 * 349 mm, the 128 should be rather precise cut
distance between:
ESC and F1: 38 mm
F9 to Pause/Break : 119 mm
ESC and Pause/Break : 328.5 mm
Pause/Break and Right Arrow: 104 mm
Distance between all the holes on the PCB for the supporting posts on the bottom of the keyboard case
I measuerd all holes from the middle of the hole.
All upper holes have the distance of 22.5mm from the upper edge of the PCB.
The distances of the upper 3 holes from left (CapsLock side) to the right side are:
left edge to 1st hole: 56mm, 1st hole to 2nd hole: 115.5mm, 2nd hole to the 3rd hole: 115.5mm, 3rd hole to the right edge: 58.5mm.
Lower right (CapsLock Side) hole: 13mm to the bottom edge, 58.5mm to the right edge.
Lower left hole: 36mm to the left edge, 37.5mm to the bottom edge.
(Attachment) 33926[/ATTACH]
Anyone who has a filco mind taking it apart and comparing measurements?
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First test plate is in. Notice I use a Cherry off-center capslock. I don't have any plate-mount stabilizer. I may need to butcher a Wyse keyboard to get a couple of plate-mounted Cherry stabilizers. To late tonight (this morning?). I will put it inside my acrylic case or a Filco case tomorrow.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34441&d=1323510289)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34440&d=1323510288)
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I posted this over at DT with regard to the case, but it should be posted here as well:
Those screen shots were old. I will have to make newer ones. I also removed the Phantom text because that increases laser time. The new design has 6 layers, and requires gluing. I also have a shop close to me that could to this. I am just waiting until I have a release-candidate design before I move forward with a shop.
In any case (no pun intended), I think I will wait for a little bit before continuing. It is close to the holidays and I won't be around as much. I am on vacation for the rest of the year start now . The case design now is based on Filco. With Phantom, the top layer will change. I think it is better to finalize the design using the actually Phantom design, and not make it compatible with Filco. Doing so I will have to make compromises. I can always make a couple of small changes and cut for Filco, if people want a Filco acrylic case.
Although the case design seems to work, we need more testing. For example, make sure the typing feel is solid, not wobbly, the keyboard innards doesn't move around inside the case, or the case is actually not too flexible and is supportive of the PCB and the plate. All the things people complain about Filco/Ducky/Leopold etc, will apply to my case. To ensure the case design actually works well, I will need to make a couple extra prototypes and need volunteers to test it for me, in DIY construction of the case and usage testing. Haven't figured out how to do it yet because it is expensive and time consuming to make 2 one-off cases.
I don't think it is a good idea to wait for the case. We need to close out the group buy with the plates, PCBs, switches, stabilizers, diodes and such. We can get everything done put together, modify the firmware, and then deal with the case later.
This is going to be a year-long project. Exciting!
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Hmmm no Filco compatibility :( well I guess I will have to order phantom parts then because I need a acrylic case
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Yes the case should acrylic case should be done separately as this was originally designed for a Filco case. The PLU looks close also and we now have measurements, now if we could get comparison measurements of a Filco.
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Yes the case should acrylic case should be done separately as this was originally designed for a Filco case. The PLU looks close also and we now have measurements, now if we could get comparison measurements of a Filco.
You know, if we added one more hole, and routed the traces a little differently around it, we could probably add CMstorm compatibility...
But I'm all set on a custom case anyway, so it's really a non-issue.
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Plu Dimensions:
size of PCB 122 * 345 mm , one or 2 mm more would not be a problem
size of plate 128 * 349 mm, the 128 should be rather precise cut
distance between:
ESC and F1: 38 mm
F9 to Pause/Break : 119 mm
ESC and Pause/Break : 328.5 mm
Pause/Break and Right Arrow: 104 mm
Distance between all the holes on the PCB for the supporting posts on the bottom of the keyboard case
I measuerd all holes from the middle of the hole.
All upper holes have the distance of 22.5mm from the upper edge of the PCB.
The distances of the upper 3 holes from left (CapsLock side) to the right side are:
left edge to 1st hole: 56mm, 1st hole to 2nd hole: 115.5mm, 2nd hole to the 3rd hole: 115.5mm, 3rd hole to the right edge: 58.5mm.
Lower right (CapsLock Side) hole: 13mm to the bottom edge, 58.5mm to the right edge.
Lower left hole: 36mm to the left edge, 37.5mm to the bottom edge.
(Attachment) 33926[/ATTACH]
Thanks for the measurements. They match Filco's.
And thanks for the gentle reminder, TheProfosist. :-)
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Thanks for the measurements. They match Filco's.
And thanks for the gentle reminder, TheProfosist. :-)
Thanks much now i can get me some PLUs cheap case if you ask me.
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Whoa!
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34519&d=1323585539)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34518&d=1323585538)
Sunken screws and nuts. But screws are too long. Where can I get custom length screws?
Any the case is not easy to put together. Very time consuming.
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You can get screws that are "too long" and cut them down pretty easily. You also may be able to get them in the proper length for our application.
Looks good, though. I assume the black plastic is glued on?
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Looks like a Korean A87 wannabe. heh
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Hehe, I looked at a lot of pictures on kbdmania.net. I borrowed a lot of ideas from them.
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WOW...
DO WANT.
Any updates on switch availability?
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WOW...
DO WANT.
Any updates on switch availability?
WASD will have switches starting later this month at the same price as mouser or lower if you cant get the switch you want through the group buy.
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I can cut screws. But a lot of people can't or don't have the tools to do so. That's why I want to order custom length screws. Maybe use acron nuts instead... What makes it worse is the acrylic thinkness is always a little thinner than it is listed. So if total thickness is 1 inch, it ended up as 15/16 or something like that.
As nice as this one looks, I think I will need to go back to non-sunken screws and may be use acron nuts, unless you guys don't mind gluing a layers together yourselves and cutting your own screws. Actually you might need to cut your own screws either way. Or, I will have to design the case based on popular screw lengths (3/4 inch, 1 inch, 1 1/4inch).
The case looks better in picture then in person though. May be because I made it, I see flaws everywhere... :(
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litster, it might be more work for you, but you could cut the screws, and ship them out with the plates (and maybe charge a fee for you time), that way he people who don't have hacksaws, etc. can just order custom-cut screws from you with their order.
Although, finding a supplier of custom-length screws would probably be the best idea in that case, as they surely can do it for a better price.
Looking around online, I notice that there appear to be lots of custom screw places. I'm sure we'd meet the MOQ for at least one of them.
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Just wondering, can't you 'insert' the screws from the back side of the kboard so you don't seem them?
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that requires tapping the top cover, which may cost more than just doing the way lister has it, plus it gives the phantom a more industrial look
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Cutting 10-12 screws for a prototype, I can do. Citing that many screws by myself for each keyboard case I might built for a group buy? I have better things to spend my time on :-)
I will search around on how much it might be to get some custom screws. Investigating and learning how to build this thing is fun.
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I bought a 4-40 tapper. It works, most of the time, with acrylic. For the occasions that it doesn't, you are screwed, so to speak ;-)
My first clear acrylic case bares the tapper scares.
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did you use lube for the tap? it makes much cleaner taps with lube
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No, I didn't. What kind of lube? I think tap would work for the most part in my new design, except the rear part where I need to screw 3 layers together. Lining holes and threads across 3 layers will be hard, and a lot of holes the tap. Screw up one and the case is flawed.
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i would rather see the screws on the top. i would love some big, industrial, steampunk style hex nuts on top or something
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i would rather see the screws on the top. i would love some big, industrial, steampunk style hex nuts on top or something
Yep! I'm a fan of good-looking HEX nuts, and bolts, like what you see on a lot of DIY enclosures. (I like the ones that come with the aptly named "box esclosures" b2-080 that I have for my AMB gamm2 DAC: Here's a pic from head case.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/Asrale/NorCal%202009/ncr09_01.jpg
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I know this is probably putting the cart before the horse, but check these out.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34640[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34642[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34643[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34644[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34645[/ATTACH]
There are so many custom colors and different sizes at this site (http://www.fastener-express.com/)
This other website has some interesting ones as well
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34647[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34648[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34649[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34650[/ATTACH]
Source (http://www.oppracing.com/)
This might just add a little cherry on the top of an awesome case. If I had to have bolts in the case I would want ones like these.
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I know this is probably putting the cart before the horse, but check these out.
(Attachment) 34640[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 34642[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 34643[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 34644[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 34645[/ATTACH]
There are so many custom colors and different sizes at this site (http://www.fastener-express.com/)
That is sweet! Thanks for the link whiskerBox! Have you bought from this site? I was just looking at mcmaster.com and couldn't find machine screws with perfect length, and then I realized that matric may have more options. Let me see what Fastener Express has in length. The colored nylon lock nuts would be perfect if I can find the right length. If I can, exposed bolts and nuts would be best because no glue would be required.
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I haven't bought from them, but they look nice! If no gluing was required then one could be able to switch out different colored layers if they had multiple pieces thus offering more customization. This project is sick and I really cant wait to get my hands on one of these cases. There are also so many options for USB cables and different color wraps that we should probably expect ripster to come spam his McKey effect thread lol.
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I also found this site that makes custom bolts for skateboards and BMX bikes they dont have quite as many choices but they price is great 10 - 25 cents a bolt. much cheaper.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34790[/ATTACH]http://www.mudgehardware.com/ (http://www.mudgehardware.com/)
But that got me thinking about custom skateboard screws and how cheap they were so I thought I would check out CCS.com where I found these. Now they aren't as nice as the ones previously posted but I think that they would be more than good enough for this and they come in a variety of colors. Most of them come in a kit of 8 (for a skateboard) so you would have to buy multiple kits but they are like $4 a kit so very reasonable.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34791[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34792[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34793[/ATTACH]
http://shop.ccs.com/searchresults/?N=780+478&cm=Skate (http://shop.ccs.com/searchresults/?N=780+478&cm=Skate)
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Investigator Whiskers :cool:
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Would be cool if the screws matched the acrylic at the side (listers last case).
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Thanks for the links whiskerBox. These screws are nice. But I don't think they will fit because they only have one size and length. This is what I think I will need:
Exposed screws and nuts:
5x front: M3 20mm length ~ 3/4"
8x rear: M3 28mm length ~ 1/ 1/8"
mcmaster.com doesn't seem to have 28mm long M3 screws. The closest in inches would be1 1/8 inches 4-40 screws
Sunken screws and nuts (not going to do this due to gluing required):
M3 15mm ~ 9/16" (mcmaster.com has not even number length screws)
M3 23mm ~ 15/16"(mcmaster.com has not even number length screws)
I have been using 4-40 screws. I think M3 in metric is the closest.
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Fastner express has the 20mm bolts but I am unsure if they have 28mm I will try to find out later. Maybe I will call them once you figure out exactly what you need and we can setup a kit through them for the phantom.
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Alright update since the PLU is a confirmed match to the Filco I have just bought 3 from qtan for the Phantoms that I am building. I asked him if I could offer you guys the same price and he said yes, so $68 it is. I order white with blues. O and I believe you save more on shipping the bulkier you buy and how you ship I had him ship to his warehouse then to me saving me $10 since were not in a hurry.
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whoa i haven't come in here in awhile. those cases look good.
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Thanks demik. I should be making a third version which should be close to final. Now that I can cut screws at whatever length I need, I think I have most of the final pieces I need. Now, if I could find 4-40 lock nuts in black color, I will be golden!
TheProfosist, great idea! Now, I think PLU is 95% Filco in design (except with crappy PCB and only 2, 3KRO). But I don't think we are certain that PLU is 100% compatible. When will you receive your PLU? When you receive your PLU, will you be able to open up a Filco and put the Filco innards inside the PLU case? Then we will for sure know that they are compatible or not.
How much is shipping? That is a good price in that you get a case, switches, stabilizers, *and* an ANSI 1.25x plate. PLU is plate-mount, is it?
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Thanks demik. I should be making a third version which should be close to final. Now that I can cut screws at whatever length I need, I think I have most of the final pieces I need. Now, if I could find 4-40 lock nuts in black color, I will be golden!
TheProfosist, great idea! Now, I think PLU is 95% Filco in design (except with crappy PCB and only 2, 3KRO). But I don't think we are certain that PLU is 100% compatible. When will you receive your PLU? When you receive your PLU, will you be able to open up a Filco and put the Filco innards inside the PLU case? Then we will for sure know that they are compatible or not.
How much is shipping? That is a good price in that you get a case, switches, stabilizers, *and* an ANSI 1.25x plate. PLU is plate-mount, is it?
Sadly I dont have a Filco and never will. As a reminder you did say
Thanks for the measurements. They match Filco's.
And thanks for the gentle reminder, TheProfosist. :-)
So i can provide additional measurements if needed once I get them but to me eyeballing the pictures they looked the same. If someone even somewhat near me has a Filco that can before opened up I would be wiling to do a test swap though I doubt that to be the case. The shipping for my 3 boards was going to be 40$ but dropped down to $30 when I went through his us warehouse instead of being shipped directly to me.
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Yes, the measurements match, but that is without physically putting Filco innards inside a PLU case to confirm. PLU is so much cheaper, it is very like they cut some corners. They will probably fit, but we are not 100% sure. I just don't want people to spend money to get the PLU and end up not being a match with Filco.
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Yes, the measurements match, but that is without physically putting Filco innards inside a PLU case to confirm. PLU is so much cheaper, it is very like they cut some corners. They will probably fit, but we are not 100% sure. I just don't want people to spend money to get the PLU and end up not being a match with Filco.
Would measurements of the PCB be of any help? And as I said I would be willing to drive a bit to solve this mystery but only and hour or 2. Im located in south eastern WI or im willing to buy one if I can get one cheap I can always resell later after this has all been figured out.
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Anyone that has a Filco wiling to buy a PLU as its much cheaper this was than me buying a Filco just to take apart and not use.
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With sunken, black-oxide hex cap screws:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34985&d=1323902137)
The piano black finish does attract finger prints though.
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It looks amazing, though the 6 screws at the top seems a little bit overkill.
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That looks really good litster! I see all the hard work has paid off
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It looks amazing, though the 6 screws at the top seems a little bit overkill.
That looks really good litster! I see all the hard work has paid off
Thanks guys. I need 2 screw up top in the middle to screw down the USB cable tight. This case is a one off though. The actual one that I want to make for more units will have exposed screws and nuts, not sunken. I don't think exposed screws are worth the gluing trouble.
Edit:
I am typing on it now. I am so proud or myself! LOL!
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Thanks guys. I need 2 screw up top in the middle to screw down the USB cable tight. This case is a one off though. The actual one that I want to make for more units will have exposed screws and nuts, not sunken. I don't think exposed screws are worth the gluing trouble.
I guess that if people want sunken screws that they could do this on there own after the fact as well.
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you would have to drill the top layer and the bottom later to expand the holes. I would not recommend that. You could ruin the pieces. I haven't found an effective way to glue them (altogether 6 layers, glue top and 2nd layer, 3rd and 4th layer, and 5th and bottom layer). It is very time consuming and prone to error, messing up the case with glue.
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I actually love all the screws on it, makes it look more industrial haha
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you would have to drill the top layer and the bottom later to expand the holes. I would not recommend that. You could ruin the pieces. I haven't found an effective way to glue them (altogether 6 layers, glue top and 2nd layer, 3rd and 4th layer, and 5th and bottom layer). It is very time consuming and prone to error, messing up the case with glue.
Well right off the bat I can tell you that I wouldn't take this risk of damaging a case that was so expensive, I would just get some cool looking screws lol.
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Thanks guys. I need 2 screw up top in the middle to screw down the USB cable tight. This case is a one off though. The actual one that I want to make for more units will have exposed screws and nuts, not sunken. I don't think exposed screws are worth the gluing trouble.
Edit:
I am typing on it now. I am so proud or myself! LOL!
That explains it.
Well you should be.
I wonder how they managed to secure this keyboard without the visible screws.
(http://www.otd.kr/data/file/album/2948813843_62285e95_DSC_3302.JPG)
http://www.otd.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=album&wr_id=84853&page=29
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If this is a metal case, then screws can be screwed in from the bottom.
EDIT: Nope, it doesn't look like a metal case. Maybe the top 3 layers are glued, and holes are tapped with threads and screw in from the bottom.
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I think that the screws give the case a stand-out quality. If they must be there, then I think making too much effort to hide them would be like apologizing for their presence.
Case looks awesome!
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Can someone explain what the PHANTOM kit for $25 on r4 is? I've been looking about and can't figure it out.
Also, litster, I'm not sure what you mean by exposed screws but wouldn't that interfere and make it so your hands/wrists brush against them? I'm sure you've taken that into account but just checking.
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Litster: I thought that was an OTD case, so I didn't post. It's amazing!
I just spent hours drilling my AMP chassis from PMMA (acrylic) no errors, but it was a pain! the bit kept sticking, so forgive me if I'm not enthusiastic about having to tap or ream to the holes more for sunken screws. Either it's available on arrival, or not: I'll be very happy with exposed screwheads. They looks better, too.
Also, I was thinking of nuts/bolts. I wouldn't matter the length then: you can just have the extra bolt length sticking up. This is what I did with my amp (bolts and angle brackets) and it turned out well.
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I should give an update. First set of plates are done as you saw the pictures I posted. There are some minor adjustments that we decided to make another set of plates to confirm. The plates are being made next week.
PrinsValim is giving the PCB design one more final check, and then we will order 2 test PCBs. If we order PCBs next week, hopefully we will receive them just after the new year.
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(http://noma.co.kr/attach/images/30354/033/229/003/b91cb579ea0557a25751cf5b0631baf0.JPG)
Have you ever wondered why those Korean plates have so many extra holes?
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Can someone explain what the PHANTOM kit for $25 on r4 is? I've been looking about and can't figure it out.
Also, litster, I'm not sure what you mean by exposed screws but wouldn't that interfere and make it so your hands/wrists brush against them? I'm sure you've taken that into account but just checking.
I think the PHANTOM kit in r4 is forthe7bit layout, or the phantom 1x win key and app key. 7bit will know for sure.
The screw heads on the top of the case would not interfere with your hands or fingers, at least not for me.
But Dorkvadar, if the screws are too long and stick out from the bottom, it would scratch your desk's surface. I now cut the screws to length and use a low profile lock nut for each screw, so the case doesn't scratch desk surfaces. I also use adhesive rubber feet so the nuts clear the desk surface completely.
I still need to make a few more design changes. But, how many of you would order a case like this if it would cost $165 + shipping? I am not actually sure how much it will cost to cut acrylic by a vendor, but that is a good guess if I made a small number of them, say 10 or so.
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I still need to make a few more design changes. But, how many of you would order a case like this if it would cost $165 + shipping? I am not actually sure how much it will cost to cut acrylic by a vendor, but that is a good guess if I made a small number of them, say 10 or so.
Count me In I want one!!!!
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Have you ever wondered why those Korean plates have so many extra holes?
I noticed that too. They choose to cut out all the blank area. That would make the plate more flexible, maybe it is to get the plate's stability and still have similar feel to PCB-mounted keyboards?
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I noticed that too. They choose to cut out all the blank area. That would make the plate more flexible, maybe it is to get the plate's stability and still have similar feel to PCB-mounted keyboards?
I think it could help eliminate/reduce any ringing from the plate. Also it slightly decreases the weight of the plate, while keeping the stability, though I doubt it would flex.
Maybe some of the Korean members could enlight this.
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Can someone explain what the PHANTOM kit for $25 on r4 is? I've been looking about and can't figure it out.
According to http://deskthority.net/wiki/Round4#Prices_for_Kits, Phantom kit is a set of "keys for the 7BIT Phantom layout".
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I still need to make a few more design changes. But, how many of you would order a case like this if it would cost $165 + shipping? I am not actually sure how much it will cost to cut acrylic by a vendor, but that is a good guess if I made a small number of them, say 10 or so.
In for at least one maybe two :D
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In for at least one maybe two :D
I am at least thinking about it. The custom case is part of what intrigues me about this...
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count me in for a case
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I'm interested in the case if it'd work with the 7bit layout.
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I just want to say litster definitely had me sold on this project with that prototype case he made, I was unsure before as I had no Filco or PLU case to put this thing in, but now after his hard work I can definitely say I am in and cannot wait for this thing ;D
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But Dorkvadar, if the screws are too long and stick out from the bottom, it would scratch your desk's surface. I now cut the screws to length and use a low profile lock nut for each screw, so the case doesn't scratch desk surfaces. I also use adhesive rubber feet so the nuts clear the desk surface completely.
My preference is to have the screw head on the bottom (and not scratching that way) and to have the extra length stick out the top. Clearly it would need to be engineered for this from the outset, but I see it as the best solution if no custom-length screws can be had.
I just did the same thing for my amplifier chassis, which was made from acrylic (now I need to find a way to get the paper off it easily)
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I can now cut screws to length :-) I just need good hand strength.
That rhythms!
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What are you using: A hacksaw?
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http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00973575000P
(http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/00973575000?hei=100&wid=100&op_sharpen=1)
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Just made a opaque white case with transparent blue middle layers. I think it would look pretty good with black keycaps. I am still waiting for my new black oxide hex cap screws. So I should be able to take some pictures on Monday night.
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I am still waiting for my new black oxide hex cap screws.
Oh, I can get those locally: they're awesome.
Interestingly enough, they don't sell metric nuts to go with them, though.
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The new case sounds great! I can't wait for pictures.
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If this is a metal case, then screws can be screwed in from the bottom.
EDIT: Nope, it doesn't look like a metal case. Maybe the top 3 layers are glued, and holes are tapped with threads and screw in from the bottom.
Did you know they make threaded plugs? I have seen a few different types. Some expand as you screw the screw into the plug securing it tight. Others can be glued in place, some are pressed. Basicly you would drill a hole into the top plate that the threaded plug would be pressed/glued into.
Here is an example product: http://www.ezlok.com/Home/index.html
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If this is a metal case, then screws can be screwed in from the bottom.
EDIT: Nope, it doesn't look like a metal case. Maybe the top 3 layers are glued, and holes are tapped with threads and screw in from the bottom.
Did you know they make threaded plugs that can be pressed into a hole drilled into plastics ( and other materials ) to make them threaded. There are a few types some are just plain pressed in and some also have a compression quality. As you screw the screw in the threaded plug presses out against the wall.
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Did you know they make threaded plugs that can be pressed into a hole drilled into plastics ( and other materials ) to make them threaded. There are a few types some are just plain pressed in and some also have a compression quality. As you screw the screw in the threaded plug presses out against the wall.
Didn't know that. Do you have a link to where I can buy some, or a link to a picture of it? Thanks.
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Found this on mcmaster.com: http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=ffbndm
This seems to be the best I can find. I am using 4-40 screws and would like to stay with 4-40. Right now I am using thin lock nuts, with are only 1/8" thick.
(http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20100201/90596A005L.GIF)
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ebay (http://stores.ebay.com/HOMEPRO-FASTENERS/_i.html?_nkw=nutsert&LH_SellerWithStore=1&LH_TitleDesc=1&_armrs=1&_dmd=2&_from=&_ipg=&_sasi=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_vc=1) is the only place I've found them so far. The company 'Nutsert' makes ones specifically for plastic (http://www.nutserts.co.uk/Type%20FAS-BL.htm) that don't require being thermally set, but I have yet to find a source in the US.
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This might work: http://www.tristar-inserts.com/press-in-inserts.htm
Specifically, the HP series.
(http://www.tristar-inserts.com/images/inserts/p-hp-series-LD.gif)
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Didn't know that. Do you have a link to where I can buy some, or a link to a picture of it? Thanks.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GPNIOW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001BHI3I2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=04QD2MNFRWH5SA1YZRB3
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This is an example of what I was talking about: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GPNIOW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001BHI3I2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=04QD2MNFRWH5SA1YZRB3 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GPNIOW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001BHI3I2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=04QD2MNFRWH5SA1YZRB3)
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Didn't know that. Do you have a link to where I can buy some, or a link to a picture of it? Thanks.
Hopefully this doesn't end up double posting but I was having problems getting it to accept a hyperlink.
These are an example of what I am talking about: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GPNIOW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001BHI3I2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=04QD2MNFRWH5SA1YZRB3 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GPNIOW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001BHI3I2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=04QD2MNFRWH5SA1YZRB3)
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I ordered a PHISOREDKIT and a PHISOCLEARKIT and realized that there seems to be an ISO plate in these kits and not the ISOWIN I want.
Is this correct and could I get the ISOWIN plates with the kits?
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I ordered a PHISOREDKIT and a PHISOCLEARKIT and realized that there seems to be an ISO plate in these kits and not the ISOWIN I want.
Is this correct and could I get the ISOWIN plates with the kits?
The correct ordering code for ISOWIN is PHISOWINREDKIT and PHISOWINCLEARKIT.
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FYI, test PCBs have been ordered!!!!!111one1!!!
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FYI, test PCBs have been ordered!!!!!111one1!!!
Nice I should probably put my order in at some point...
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I tried to replace my PHISOKITS through PHISOWINKITS but the order system does not understand things like "PHISOREDKIT 0" to clear an item...
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I tried to replace my PHISOKITS through PHISOWINKITS but the order system does not understand things like "PHISOREDKIT 0" to clear an item...
Try
CLEAR PHISOKITS
or
CLEARALL
Thats what I used like 5 times in 7bits group buy ;)
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Here is the new white case I made, shown in white/beige and black/Dolch Cherry double shot keycaps, plus socket cap screws and thinner lock nuts. No gluing required.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35474&d=1324350581)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35473&d=1324350580)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35472&d=1324350579)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35471&d=1324350578)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35470&d=1324350577)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=35475&d=1324350882)
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^ Whoah, looks awesome!
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wow that looks really good.
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Thats a winner! Man that would look sick with the RETRO set from R4
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Thats a winner! Man that would look sick with the RETRO set from R4
WOW that's amazing!
Hmm, how much does teflon cost? The white you used reminds me of it, and I do know that it's pretty tough.
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It is not teflon. It is just white acrylic. I personally like the black color better. But since it is not glued now, I can make another black case with *red* middle layers, and I can swap them back and forth for 4 different combos: black/red, black/blue, white/red, white/blue.
Some things I have noticed, and general info:
- I am typing on it now. It feels very solid. It feels heavier than Filco with its original case. But I need to weight them to verify.
- The screws are very nice. And since my hands and fingers don't touch them when typing, they don't bother me at all. They look pretty baller to me. I don't have to cut these screws. They fit almost perfectly. The back, longer ones are perfect length. The front could be a tad longer, but they are fine.
- The keyboard PCB (actually, the switches' contacts :D) is sitting on the 4th layer. This is the first prototype I have made without to posts glued to the 4th layer to support the metal plate. So it is a simpler design and has better support IMO.
- The cut edges are a little rough because I have not flame polish them. Laser cutting has a little of a flame polish effect, unlike cutting with a saw.
- Acrylic, after cut, bends a little. They are straighten out when you screw them together though.
- The top layer cut out fits perfectly with two other Filcos I opened up and tried the case with. But this last one suffers from off-center arrow keys and Esc key, just like other Filco and Leopold keyboards :mad:.
- The height works great for me. But I don't use the flip up legs in any keyboard I use. If you use the flip up legs, It would require thicker rubber feet at the back.
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I love the cases, but my favorite ones are the transparent colored ones where you can see the inner workings of the board. The cases seem to be getting exponentially better and I really like the support you have made on the bottom to give a slight tilt to the keyboard. I know that you said in the past that it would be possible to offer Filco compatibility to the case with minor alterations in the laser cutting, but will this be an option or has that been nixed in way of a single phantom only design?
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Here is the new white case I made, shown in white/beige and black/Dolch Cherry double shot keycaps, plus socket cap screws and thinner lock nuts. No gluing required.
Looks freaking amazing. How much did this cost? @_@. I want!!!
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The case in the picture has a real Filco in it. The design now works for Filco. I need to build a Phantom prototype when I get the test PCBs and test plates, so I can test how well Phantom works with this case. Then I will be able to tell what I need to change, if any, to make it compatible for both. I am pretty sure that the case design as it is now *should* work with both Phantom and Filco keyboards. I could make the Phantom version's top layer about 1/4" thicker so the whole top layer rests on the metal plate to minimize flex. That would also mean a much larger hole for the two LEDs. There is some very minor flex now, because the Filco controller, located above the arrow key cluster, is exposed and on top of the metal plate. The top layer has to be lifted higher, hence there is room for flex. The flex is very minor. If we can trade the tiny flex for Filco/Phantom compatibility, I think we could do that. I would like to do so. But until I get a Phantom innards built, I can't tell for sure.
Edit:
I forgot to comment the transparent acrylic case. I would like to minimize the number of variations we would make, at least for the first round. I like the transparent case as well. I actually like them all now. The white one is growing on me now that I have been using it for a little while today. Since I make them, I will probably have at least one of each myself :-). But I think most people will only get one. I would like to do one color combo for the first batch, if that works and there is more demand, I could do another color combo.
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Looks freaking amazing. How much did this cost? @_@. I want!!!
I submitted to a local shop for a quote. Due to the holidays, I may get a quote back in January.
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I think the little amount of flex is worth the compatibility for sure. Thanks for confirming this all I am very excited to see what this turns into. I think that with this compatibility between phantom and Filco that this would also allow for a bigger market and hopefully lower prices.
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Thats a winner! Man that would look sick with the RETRO set from R4
Or a black/red combo would look very nice with the Red Alert set. Of the Blood style in R4. The modular layered design would give us another dimension to customize our keyboard with different colors.
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I think the little amount of flex is worth the compatibility for sure. Thanks for confirming this all I am very excited to see what this turns into. I think that with this compatibility between phantom and Filco that this would also allow for a bigger market and hopefully lower prices.
Flex was a lot worse when I used 1/16" the first time. It is now 1/8", twice as thick as before. It is not so flexible anymore. You can still push the strip between Fn keys and number keys down a little, but you really have to push it.
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Or a black/red combo would look very nice with the Red Alert set. Of the Blood style in R4. The modular layered design would give us another dimension to customize our keyboard with different colors.
I think this is just great, the modular ability of the case since there is no drilling involved makes this thing a knockout! It might be cool to have a couple different inserts with each case so that you could change it to match different key sets
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Damn Lister..that case looks good. I actually like your choice of the white acryllic, i am not a fan of the clear/transparent look.
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I'm with jpm, transparent is not for me. This white case looks amazing though.
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Thanks guys! Glad you guys like the white case. I wasn't very sure about white when I picked the color, thought I made a mistake.
Another problem with transparent cases is that the switch contacts that stick out under the PCB will come in contact with the bottom of the case and scratch it. For opaque acrylic, that is not a problem. For transparent acrylic, you will see the scratches from the outside, a little unsightly.
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This is incredible. My vote is for Red and White (then it will match all of my furniture). I totally understand the need to limit options, though.
If this comes together, then I think its a pretty big milestone for our community. Good job!
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How heavy are these cases anyway?
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Thanks guys! Glad you guys like the white case. I wasn't very sure about white when I picked the color, thought I made a mistake.
Another problem with transparent cases is that the switch contacts that stick out under the PCB will come in contact with the bottom of the case and scratch it. For opaque acrylic, that is not a problem. For transparent acrylic, you will see the scratches from the outside, a little unsightly.
You can never go wrong with white :cool:
White with ANYTHING and I'm good :)
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Thats racist :laser:
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How heavy are these cases anyway?
I haven't weighted it yet. It 'feels' heavier than the original Filco case. But that could be just my imgination. I should weight it today.
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Hey litster,
Any chance you'd be willing to post how you made one of these?
I have the resources and I'm thinking that it would be fun to try (and most likely fail) putting one together.
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FWIW, I had my keyboard prototype pcbs made at sitopway (mostly due to low pricing), and they can even source components (pricing comparable to mouser et al) and do assembly at reasonable pricing as well. The pcbs came out great and fast, though with a bit of smudges and such post assembly. Don't know if you even need such information anymore, but thought I'd throw it out there.
Oh, and I'm definitely interested, but probably only as long as a non-vanilla case is offered as well. I don't have any interest in putting such a custom product in a noncustom casing :D
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How heavy are these cases anyway?
Filco Tenkeyless OEM case with MX Blue white/beige cherry keycaps + moogle kit = 956g
Litster's acrylic case with Dolch keycaps + Cherry black double shot keycaps + moogle kit = 1234g
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More weight the better!
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More weight the better!
LOL! So you like white and fat!
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LOL! So you like white and fat!
+1
So, i want to put an order in, but I'm not sure what MXDARKBLUE are... The cherry key wiki lists them as unconfirmed to be clicky or tactile. My hope was to do blues in the typing area and some heavier clicky switches (like greens) on the F row. Cherry (USA at least) only lists a blue and green that click. Can anyone elaborate on the Dark blue?
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It was covered somewhere here or on DT's Phantom thread or switch group buy thread. I don't remember exactly, but I think dark blue is actually not available from our switch source. If 7bit is not too busy with this group buy4, maybe he can answer. Or maybe other forum members can help here.
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id love an all green switch board
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To my knowledge a dark blue is just a vintage blue.
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The dark blue question turn up again!
I'll find the links out from the earlier part of this topic: hang on.
Edit: here we go, brought up 2-3 times:
What is MX dark blue plate mount switch?
This is the latest switch. Ask Sixty, he knows all about it ...
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Where are we getting the cherry darkblue from? Is there any other information on it other than sixty's one post and that one picture?
More discussion here: http://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1411&start=121
Okay, thanks litster.
I think they're probably the "similar to normal MX blue" as opposed to the "20-year-old" style.
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What's the deal with the dark blue switches?
They did only exist in my fantasy!
There exist dark blue switches, but these are quite ancient and no longer in production.
The dark blue ones ... (http://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1411&start=119)
So it sounds like you won't be able to source the dark blue switches, right?
No, there will not be dark blue switches for spacebar switches. Others colors should be available.
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Thank you dorkvadar! Next time someone asks about the dark blue switches, we can just refer people to your post above.
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I haven't had a chance to follow up on the phantom gb, but will this case just fit on any filco or do I need to make a phantom first?
Right now the current design is confirmed to work with Filco MJ1 and MJ2 tenkeyless keyboards. Phantom is designed to fit inside an genuine Filco tenkeyless case. Given that, I can't 100% confirm the current case design works for Phantom yet. Prototype mounting plates and PCBs have been ordered. I will be building a full Phantom prototype keyboard when I receive the parts. Once that is done, I will be able to put the Phantom keyboard inside my acrylic case to see how well they will fit. Best case is the same acrylic case works for both Filco and Phantom, and that's the goal.
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Very nice :)
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The dark blue question turn up again!
I'll find the links out from the earlier part of this topic: hang on.
Edit: here we go, brought up 2-3 times:
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Thank you for your effort!
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Best case is the same acrylic case works for both Filco and Phantom, and that's the goal.
You're the man keep it up :nod:
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Best case is the same acrylic case works for both Filco and Phantom, and that's the goal.
You're the man keep it up :nod:
LOL! Didn't realized I had pun in what I wrote earlier until I saw your post. Best case, as in best case scenario, and/or best case design.
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Made a opaque black + transparent orange case today. Looks very nice. But now I think opaque white + transparent blue looks the best.
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Made a opaque black + transparent orange case today. Looks very nice. But now I think opaque white + transparent blue looks the best.
Can't beat the white case I'm telling you :P
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White with red center layer ftw
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White with red center layer ftw
Oh yes that is what I want, but with the top layer clear!
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Since test plates are done and teset PCBs are ordered, I ordered the rest of the parts to get ready to build the first complete Phantom prototype. The last remaining part is the firmware for Teensy.
I am wondering if anyone could port the AIKON firmware to run on Teensy, so one could use AIKON's software to configure the Teensy for Phantom. Anyone? :-)
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if you guys get a lot of orders for clear switches i would like to buy some.
maybe even browns or blues as well. would love to try blues with clear springs.
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if you guys get a lot of orders for clear switches i would like to buy some.
maybe even browns or blues as well. would love to try blues with clear springs.
Strikes me as the best use for clear springs. I'm considering changing my order to blues... maybe I can drop by a bestbuy and try blues sometime? I've never been in a bestbuy, so I don't know if they let you do that there.
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the bigger question is if they have one on display. if they do, they let you play with them.
If not you can test the black window sorta because the arrow keys are exposed.
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Strikes me as the best use for clear springs. I'm considering changing my order to blues... maybe I can drop by a bestbuy and try blues sometime? I've never been in a bestbuy, so I don't know if they let you do that there.
No Fry's close to you?
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No Fry's close to you?
I live on the east coast: The closest one appears to be in Indiana:
http://www.frys.com/ac/storelocator/index.jsp
No surprise I hadn't heard of them until recently, when I read posts about people buying parts from them locally. Looks like the only one that's even in the same time zone is in Georgia.
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Thanks for the info everyone. I think there's a bestbuy near where I go to college, so I'll see if I can try it out.
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Test PCBs are on their way to me, should be delivered early next week. 2 new plates are coming to me from BiNiaRiS as well. Most of the rest of the parts I need have arrived, minus Cherry stabilizers, which should be here in 2 weeks. Kaiserreich is getting me some costar stabilizers from taobao, but no ETA. I can probably cannibalize one of my Filcos for its costar stabilizers :-(.
Does anyone have any suggestions on paint to use for the aluminum mounting plate? It is silver and it doesn't look too awesome. I want to get it to at least matt black, if not some flashy color like blue or red. Any suggestion which paint and where to get it (prefer obtainable locally.
Thanks.
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wasd will have the costar plate mounts soon
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Test PCBs are on their way to me, should be delivered early next week. 2 new plates are coming to me from BiNiaRiS as well. Most of the rest of the parts I need have arrived, minus Cherry stabilizers, which should be here in 2 weeks. Kaiserreich is getting me some costar stabilizers from taobao, but no ETA. I can probably cannibalize one of my Filcos for its costar stabilizers :-(.
Does anyone have any suggestions on paint to use for the aluminum mounting plate? It is silver and it doesn't look too awesome. I want to get it to at least matt black, if not some flashy color like blue or red. Any suggestion which paint and where to get it (prefer obtainable locally.
Thanks.
Cant you use a graffiti can (or whatever its called) to paint them?
Would be very fast, just do it a few times.
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yes, I could use that, if I knew what paint it is and where to get them.
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I think he means spraypaint: You can get it in matte at a local walmart, hardware store, etc.
That's what I'm planning at least.
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You should get some spray on truck bed liner and try that to dampen the noise of the switch. I was thinking about trying the stuff from rustoleum as I have always had good luck with their products.
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Does anyone have any suggestions on paint to use for the aluminum mounting plate? It is silver and it doesn't look too awesome. I want to get it to at least matt black, if not some flashy color like blue or red. Any suggestion which paint and where to get it (prefer obtainable locally.
First find spray primer for aluminium. Then select the same brand of spray paint.
You should use the same brand for primer, paint and (optional) top coat, if possible. There are many good brands of spray paint, but not as many that have a primer that is made especially for aluminium. There shouldn't be any problem finding matt black, I think; That is one of the most common ones.
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You should get some spray on truck bed liner and try that to dampen the noise of the switch. I was thinking about trying the stuff from rustoleum as I have always had good luck with their products.
I'd imagine that truck liner would increase the thickness of the plate too much, which I wouldn't recommend that.
First find spray primer for aluminium. Then select the same brand of spray paint.
You should use the same brand for primer, paint and (optional) top coat, if possible. There are many good brands of spray paint, but not as many that have a primer that is made especially for aluminium. There shouldn't be any problem finding matt black, I think; That is one of the most common ones.
I will have to check Home Depot to see what they have. Thanks.
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I'd imagine that truck liner would increase the thickness of the plate too much, which I wouldn't recommend that.
I was thinking teh same thing but the only way to know would be to try and find out.
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I will have to check Home Depot to see what they have. Thanks.
Check AutoZone/Pep Boys/random Joe auto store... May have better luck getting metal specific primers/paints.
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Just got my 3 PLUs in todsay they to me look like exact clones of Filcos from what I have seen I dont have a Filco my self to compare exactly.
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So I did some testing on one of the the second set of mounting plates. This video demonstrates that it is possible to open up a plate-mounted switch on Phantom's metal plate without de-soldering it first. In fact, the 4 holes on the PCB is not necessary, but are there just in case.
Way to go, PrinsValim!!
[video=youtube;HLQzFEdBTvQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLQzFEdBTvQ[/video]
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Oh, I see how it works, I'm very happy about that. Thanks for the video!
Phantom is very cool.
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Cool video. Thanks.
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OK, a 720p video at a better angle.
[video=youtube;HysRQnJiupQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HysRQnJiupQ[/video]
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The plate looks pretty darn thick.
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The plate looks pretty darn thick.
Plate thickness is standard so im sure that they stuck with that.
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The plate looks pretty darn thick.
and awesome! I'm sure litster has a standard-size one: it appears to work with his switch there, so I'm sure it's within spec.
Thanks for the better angle, though your ugly hands are still in it. It looks like it's not too easy to change these, but since it's possible I'm sure it won't be a huge issue. Changing switches around is a hassle anyway.
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So I did some testing on one of the the second set of mounting plates. This video demonstrates that it is possible to open up a plate-mounted switch on Phantom's metal plate without de-soldering it first. In fact, the 4 holes on the PCB is not necessary, but are there just in case.
Way to go, PrinsValim!!
Yes!
(http://d37nnnqwv9amwr.cloudfront.net/photos/images/newsfeed/000/185/885/SANDCASTLES.png?1318627593)
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and awesome! I'm sure litster has a standard-size one: it appears to work with his switch there, so I'm sure it's within spec.
Thanks for the better angle, though your ugly hands are still in it. It looks like it's not too easy to change these, but since it's possible I'm sure it won't be a huge issue. Changing switches around is a hassle anyway.
It is actually a lot easier to open a switch than it looks in the video. It took me longer because I actually had to keep the switch *down* with one of the screw drivers so the switch bottom doesn't fly out and ruin the shot :-). I just pulled all the stems and springs from a Cherry POS keyboard (like 120 switches?) in less than 25 minutes actual time.
The spec plate thickness is 1/16 inch, and our plate is also 1/16 inch. I tried a Costar stabilizer clip and it was a tight fit, but it works.
Shoulda had my nails done first... I just got some spray paint from O'Reilly. The plate is being dried now.
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wait...so you guys are saying I might be able to change the switch type of my das keyboard? This would be quite exciting. I got browns, but they are so boring imo.
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wait...so you guys are saying I might be able to change the switch type of my das keyboard? This would be quite exciting. I got browns, but they are so boring imo.
Sure thing, just let me design a mounting plate for your switches, have it water cut, surface treated, and swap your old one out... Easy peasy!
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Skoobs, only PrinsValium's awesome, kickass, super duper custom Phantom mounting plate can do this. As far as we know, no other existing keyboard can do this. Not even Korean custom keyboards. Definitely not your Das. Not unless you have PrinsValium design a new plate for your Das and have it made.
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Not unless you have PrinsValium design a new plate for your Das and have it made.
Sure thing, just let me design a mounting plate for your switches, have it water cut, surface treated, and swap your old one out... Easy peasy!
He did say it was "Easy peasy", is a das phantom in the works? :p
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Just took delivery of our first test PCB!!
I have all the parts EXCEPT stabilizers. I ordered some but they are back-ordered. Does anyone have extra Cherry stabilizers that you can sell to me so I can complete the prototype build?
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36515&d=1325618170)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36514&d=1325618167)
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Do you need pcb-mounted cherry stabilizers? I think I have some laying around...
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I need plate-mounted ones.
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Honestly, that looks slick beyond my wildest dreams =D Let's just hope they work as well...
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I have some plate mounted costar knock offs from the PLUs that I bought.
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TheProfosist, did you disassambled your PLU keyboards?
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TheProfosist, did you disassambled your PLU keyboards?
Yep I have almost everything apart I should get to desoldering the switching sometime this week but otherwise everything is in pieces.
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mind selling a set of stabilizers to me?
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mind selling a set of stabilizers to me?
not a problem though I wouldnt recommended using them in the final build get some from WASD once he has them as these are knockoffs and fit much looser buit should be fine for a mock up.
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OK then. I already tested with some fake costar stabilizers, but they are like 15 years old. They don't fit very well. My original order of Cherry stabilizers are back ordered at newark.com. I just ordered again from onlinecomponents.com, but they are much more expensive. They should be here in a week.
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OK then. I already tested with some fake costar stabilizers, but they are like 15 years old. They don't fit very well. My original order of Cherry stabilizers are back ordered at newark.com. I just ordered again from onlinecomponents.com, but they are much more expensive. They should be here in a week.
Did you still want the ones from the PLU I could ship them tomorrow if that is the case.
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No thanks. But thanks for the offer. I will wait for the Cherry ones.
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No thanks. But thanks for the offer. I will wait for the Cherry ones.
Ok, hope WASD puts the Costar ones up on his site soon.
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Exciting! The first Phantom is nearly complete...
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This makes me sad because we were much further ahead with the dox build and now wever fallen behind :(
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Hmm, this look makes me thinking about changing my order from ISO to ANSI and get clear keycaps with clear acrylic case to see everything in this board.
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I was able to butcher my Goldtouch numpads to get 5 Cherry plate-mounted stabilizers (will replace once my new Cherry stabilizers arrive. A couple of issues:
- due to the water jet's diameter, the inside corners are not 90-degree cuts. They are a little round, just a little. But enough to make the stabilizers not fit. A little filing to make the corner 90 degrees will fix it.
- The cutouts to support both Cherry and Costar stabilizers did not pan out. The little notch on the top of the stabilizer cutout to support Costar stabilizers made Cherry stabilizers not able to clip onto the plate securely. There is nothing for the hook to grab onto. This is something Prinsvalium pointed out before and now has been confirmed.
So a few things buyers need to be aware of:
- Filing is required. There is a very small risk that you file down too much and your stabilizers don't fit tightly on the plate any more. If that happens, a little bit of glue should fix it.
- Phantom will not support multiple stabilizers (not a problem with the 7bit layout as it doesn't need any). We are not going to have multiple plate designs to support either of the stabilizers. That would DOUBLE the number of plate ANSI and ISO designs that we already have. More plate designs, higher cost, lower bulk buying power, easier to screw up your orders.
- We will switch to support only Cherry plate-mounted stabilizers. The reason is, even though they are back-ordered, when online stores have them back in stock, you can buy hundreds of them. And you know they are made by Cherry. It is still unclear to me how we could procure the number of Costar stabilizers we would need for this project. And they may not be as good as the real Costar stabilizers you have in your Filco keyboards. WASDKeyboards may have them in stock in the future. But no one knows how many there will be in stock, available for how long, how much, and of what quality.
Please keep these in mind when you order (or change your order).
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This makes me sad because we were much further ahead with the dox build and now wever fallen behind :(
This is not a competition :-). We do it for fun.
we are not as close as you might think. It is going to take me another few days to finish the prototype build. I was only able to get 15 or so diodes inserted and soldered last night.
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I was able to butcher my Goldtouch numpads to get 5 Cherry plate-mounted stabilizers (will replace once my new Cherry stabilizers arrive.
Why did not you use your plate mounted WYSE stabilizers? It seems everyone is raving about those.
Do you see any difference between the Goldtouch Cherry plate-mounted stabilizers and the WYSE?
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The Wyse keyboards I have use PCB-mount Cherry stabilizers, even though the switches are plate-mount.
Edit: Oh, and the Goldtouch Cherry stabilizers look exactly the same as the currently Cherry stabilizers (from pictures I found on the internet).
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in case anyone is really pissed that we are switching to cherry stabilizers, you can always spend a little more time and file/grind out enough room to fit costars. the cherry stabilizers aren't as tall so you can make that choice yourselves.
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The Wyse keyboards I have use PCB-mount Cherry stabilizers, even though the switches are plate-mount.
Edit: Oh, and the Goldtouch Cherry stabilizers look exactly the same as the currently Cherry stabilizers (from pictures I found on the internet).
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7008/6389171135_f53427057b_z.jpg)
These WYSE stabilizers look plate-mounted to me.
Do you feel any difference between your PCB mounted WYSE and the Goldtouch?
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I will have to look at my Wyse keyboards again. Maybe I am confused and the one keyboard that I took apart didn't have any stabilizer at all, like this one:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36605&d=1325725503)
I took it apart many months ago and don't remember what was under the spacebar. Anyway, if there were any stabilizers I would saved them when I ripped it apart for parts. all I have in my pile of parts were PCB-mounted stabilizers, until I got the ones off the Goldtouch numpads. The Goldtouch wide keys feel OK, no difference than the wide keys on my Filcos.
I never typed on the Wyse, not for real anyway. your picture's stabilizers look the same as the ones I pulled from my Goldtouch numpads.
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Thanks for confirming. Yeah the stabilizers in the Steelseries look the same as well, though they feel different than costar stabilizers in my Filco.
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Cherry Stabilizers on the WYSE feels really different from the ones for Ducky or Leopold
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How so? They look identical. Have you ever tried a Ducky or Leopold with Cherry blacks?
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Unfortunately, the only black I have is the WYSE.
With the Leopold and Poker, I've tried Clear switches
With the DUCKY, Brown switches.
It might be due to the switch itself, but they do feel mushy compared to the one on the WYSE.
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If you have time to experiment just resolder a switch.
I like the plate mounted cherry stabilizers in my Steelseries with blacks, they don't feel mushy at all, but they don't feel like costar stabilizers either, as those are louder and don't have that dampened bottom out feel.
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Great idea.
I'll do that on the Poker. Don't own the Leopold and Ducky. Don't want to void the warranty on those either.
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Just make sure to test a few switches with the WYSE as well. As the mounting plate doesn't allow any flex, and as a result of it the WYSE stabilizers could feel a bit different than the PCB mounted ones.
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I am almost half way done... with the diodes only! I have to say, soldering service is going to definitely worth it. for each diode, you pick it up, bend the legs, insert each leg to a hole, in the correct orientation, do that for 86 or 87 times (or 100+ for 7bit layout), then flip it over, and solder both legs for each diode. Oh, and you are supposed to cut the legs before your solder. Do that 86, 87 times. Then you can solder the Teensy, then 86, 87 switches, each have 2 solder points...
I now appreciate 6KRO over USB/NKRO over PS/2 much, much more.
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@litster can't wait to see the results
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Believe me, I am batching the bending, the inserting, the soldering, and the cutting. Still a very long process that require steady hands, good eye sight, and good tools.
Cutting the legs after soldering has the "potential" of cracking the solder or even the printed circuit. I did the cutting after soldering anyway :-)
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@litster can't wait to see the results
I just finished all the diodes. Because there are so many layout options for the Fn row, the front row, and shifts, etc, for some locations you need to know where you need your diodes be for the specific switch location . I don't think it would be a problem if you solder diodes to switch locations you don't need. But I double checked (still checking) to make should I don't. It would be painful to fix a diode after the switches are soldered. I think you would need de-solder all switches to remove the mounting plate to get to the diodes.
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Try to document this stuff for us newbies later as you go along constructing it. I know i am going to foobar something.
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I know i am going to foobar something.
You mean like you fubar'd your fubar? ;)
(http://i1.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/000/001/122/xzibit-happy.jpg)
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I might be up for building these and DOXs for people. I know it time consuming but im pretty confident after putting ergos in my 7G in about 4 hours including taking apart and assembling the switches.
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we got signal...
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Except for the mouse click to post, that last post was typed on the Phantom prototype, after I loaded the firmware onto the Teensy and soldered it onto the Phantom PCB! No switch was soldered yet, so I had to type the letter by touching a loose switch to the right switch locations :-)
Spacers slowly removed from pins, need to take up less room so it could fit for the acrylic case, but it is going to be tight:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36637[/ATTACH]
Teensy soldered on to PCB:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36635[/ATTACH]
There were 3 contact points without legs, so I had to solder on 3 new ones. Just reused the cut wire from the diodes. Had to dig them back out from garbage can!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36636[/ATTACH]
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Nice so you did manage to get it soldered onto thbe pcb i was hopeing that that would be the cause what the original dox did was horrifying.
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The soldering points are very close and very small, I really need a thinner, pointier tip, but I managed to solder it onto the PCB. I tested the Teensy is operational with test firmware before I solder it onto the PCB. It would be huge paint to de-solder it. I still need to cut it legs or the mounting plate won't fit.
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Excellent news litster!
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I am almost half way done... with the diodes only! I have to say, soldering service is going to definitely worth it. for each diode, you pick it up, bend the legs, insert each leg to a hole, in the correct orientation, do that for 86 or 87 times (or 100+ for 7bit layout), then flip it over, and solder both legs for each diode. Oh, and you are supposed to cut the legs before your solder. Do that 86, 87 times. Then you can solder the Teensy, then 86, 87 switches, each have 2 solder points...
I now appreciate 6KRO over USB/NKRO over PS/2 much, much more.
Depending on the amount of boards, having the pcb fab do the diode assembly (especially since they are separate from the switches) could be a very cost effective option. I did this for my prototype boards, and the cost was insignificant compared to the time savings. The downside is that depending on the fab, it would be much cheaper to do SMD diodes, since it's often cheaper for them to do a single stencil with paste, than using solder waterfall for TH diodes. This would obviously need a change to the PCB to accommodate them - I personally used 1N4148 in SOD-123 package.
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Yeah, I think for future builds it would be wiser to do SMD diodes and integrate the teensy, or AIKON components to the PCB by the factory.
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Parak, which fab do you use?
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I used sitopway - they can be contacted for a quote either via their website or the ebay account. Stencil was a one time cost of ~$40, and I had 131 smd components per board. Assembly cost, not including base pcb and component cost (which they sourced) was also ~$40 for all 6 boards. There are a few others that do full service pcb fab+assembly, but these guys were cheapest at the time (about 6 months ago).
Manufacture of pcbs, component sourcing, and assembly took exactly one week from me sending payment to them being shipped via DHL 3 day, which was fairly impressive. Quality was pretty good, some mask smudges here and there but nothing major.
Here's how the pcbs turned out, as an unrelated sneak peek as well :p
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36670[/ATTACH]
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I used sitopway - they can be contacted for a quote either via their website or the ebay account. Stencil was a one time cost of ~$40, and I had 131 smd components per board. Assembly cost, not including base pcb and component cost (which they sourced) was also ~$40 for all 6 boards. There are a few others that do full service pcb fab+assembly, but these guys were cheapest at the time (about 6 months ago).
Manufacture of pcbs, component sourcing, and assembly took exactly one week from me sending payment to them being shipped via DHL 3 day, which was fairly impressive. Quality was pretty good, some mask smudges here and there but nothing major.
Here's how the pcbs turned out, as an unrelated sneak peek as well :p
(Attachment) 36670[/ATTACH]
nice prices (i think) and nice PCB I assume you designed it?
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99% done. Picture below is the first Phantom prototype sitting in a Filco bottom case. White plate and no top case still looks pretty good, doesn't it? Due to the USB cable I have connect, I need to to cut out a piece of a vertical support bar to make it fit. Not a big deal.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36674&d=1325843466)
LEDs are not working, probably the firmware isn't done yet. They are white LEDs and I want to see them light up. Also ? is backspace now, and the right Alt is Win key. I had to bend my own wire for the spacebar stabilizer metal bar. Took me a few tries. And the wires are cheap. $5 for 6 feet.
There is a problem with the Teensy legs interfering with switches at F3, F4, 4, and 5. There is a brute force work around (shaving one edge off of the switch bottom casing). Looking into a solution with the Phantom team offline.
Anyone has any good suggestion on the best way to bend metal bars accurately? I can't do it well. And we can't find 7x and 6.25x stabilizers. We need to be able to source these stabilizer bars ourselves.
Oh, BTW, I am typing all this on the Phantom prototype! It is good to see the 1.5x Control and Alt keycaps are being used!
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again awesome news! can't wait to start soldering switches.. Wonder when the group buy 4 will ship :X, really want these two projects to finish in parallel so I can be a happy camper.
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I signed up for the switch groupbuy on DT for clear switches. Is that a separate buy?
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i think it uses the phantom bot too so should be the same?
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nice prices (i think) and nice PCB I assume you designed it?
Yeah, with major kudos to PrinsValium for some kicad specifics, in particular the holes script.
Anyone has any good suggestion on the best way to bend metal bars accurately? I can't do it well. And we can't find 7x and 6.25x stabilizers. We need to be able to source these stabilizer bars ourselves.
A wire bending jig, mayhaps?
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Is it really so hard with round nose pliers?
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Is it really so hard with round nose pliers?
Yes it is. I use the Dubro #481 wire bender... and I'd link to it but apparently google has changed things enough that I can't figure out how to direct link to a specific shopping result.
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99% done. Picture below is the first Phantom prototype sitting in a Filco bottom case.
...
Oh, BTW, I am typing all this on the Phantom prototype! It is good to see the 1.5x Control and Alt keycaps are being used!
I probably programmed the controller according to the regular Filco layout, that is why some of the keys have the wrong bindings. Are you sure you soldered the LEDs in in the right direction? Can you test with a volt meter if the voltage across the LED pins and ground changes when pressing "lock" keys. The pins on the Teensy should probably be trimmed flush with the top of the PCB before soldering them. I think that was part of my preliminary assembly instructions.. =)
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Yes it is. I use the Dubro #481 wire bender... and I'd link to it but apparently google has changed things enough that I can't figure out how to direct link to a specific shopping result.
Sweet!!! That is a cool tool. Saw a video on youtube that explains how it works. I found some locally called steel drill rods at 1/16". I also found more on mcmaster.com for a lot cheaper. Alaricljs, what wires do you use for the stabilizers?
I signed up for the switch groupbuy on DT for clear switches. Is that a separate buy?
Yes, same GB. 7bit started a separate thread for switch buys to get more orders in. But looks like only reds and clears can make the Cherry 1K MOQ. Switches that don't make that number will have to be purchased from Mouser and be more expensive.
I probably programmed the controller according to the regular Filco layout, that is why some of the keys have the wrong bindings. Are you sure you soldered the LEDs in in the right direction? Can you test with a volt meter if the voltage across the LED pins and ground changes when pressing "lock" keys. The pins on the Teensy should probably be trimmed flush with the top of the PCB before soldering them. I think that was part of my preliminary assembly instructions.. =)
Sorry I missed your instructions. Yes, trimming the legs flush to the PCB first will work. No problem then. I could have screwed up the LEDs. I also tried a green 5V LED and shorted the resistor pads but the LED didn't light up. I will volt meter test the LED pins next. Thanks.
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I just rebend a larger spacebar wire. Do not get drill rods, they *should* be hardened steel and that breaks more than bends unless you heat treat and so forth... Home Depot has a stock metal rack in the hardware section that has the right stuff.
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I went to the Home Depot closest to me last time and the smallest they have is 1/8" and larger. It is the area where they have all the chains, ropes, metal rods, and the metal thingie for garage door opener. Did I go to the wrong place?
Do you mean I need to get hardened steel, or do you mean drill rods are hardened steel and is no good?
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Odd, my HD has around 3-5 sizes under 1/8"
Drill Rod should be hardened steel and you don't want that. Sometimes vendors advertise their stock as drill rod due to it's tolerances even though it isn't hardened, only high carbon content and ready to be heat treated. It's tough if you don't have a sample to play with.
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I will check other Home Depots around here. If not drill rod, what material should I get?
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Simple steel rod stock.
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I think the square pads are on the ground side in this case, just like the other diodes... Test the LEDs both ways before you solder them, with the keyboard connected. I think it should work =)
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Actually, I did try that before I soldered the LEDs, touching the LEDs on the PCB while the keyboard is connected. They didn't come on. I need to get a new multimeter. I think my current one is dead.
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Ok, the LEDs seemed to work with the firmware when I tested it out on a breadboard. You'll have to dig into the code yourself and try to figure it out ;)
Edit: Actually, worst case, the cathode pads are not connected to GND on the controller. Did you test for that? But I really don't think I managed to screwed that up...
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A simple change to the firmware code fixed the wrong keys and I can type on it 100%. It wasn't really wrong, just the original firmware is for ANSI125. Phantom prototype is ANSI150.
I also installed the Phantom into my white acrylic case. It fits! The Phantom plate is a little smaller than the original Filco plate because Filco's bends down a bit at the top and bottom. Because of that a little cushion on the bottom edge of the inside case, or a piece of really thin foam mat that the Koreans use in their custom cases should take care of that. Anyone knows where I can buy that?
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36839&d=1325911434)
So the remaining work items are:
-Fix the LEDs (could be my ****ty soldering skill, bad components, or firmware)
-Be able to bend 6.25x and 7x Cherry stabilizer bars, maybe alaricljs could help :-)
-Create a full parts list
-Finalize pricing
-Set group buy close date
-Collect money
One problem is pretty much everyone is sold out of Cherry stabilizers. May need to wait for them.
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About the LED's: you can check if they're okay if your DMM has a diode mode: connect it, reverse it, and see what the Vf (forward voltage drop) of the LED is (sometimes it won't work, depending on the LED: high power CREE ones usually won't 'cause they're like 3.5V). Alternatively, put it in ohms mode, and see if there's continuity in one direction, and not for the other. If you can, test it in something else. I usually just grab a battery, and small resistor.
Before soldering LED's, I bend them by taking the longer wire, and making a dimple, and bending them out just a little. This is enough for contact, so it works out. I have an amp that I still haven't soldered the LED to it yet, 'cause it worked out so well.
You can test the PCB by ohm-ing out the trace. Maybe they missed a via or something? You can also put your DMM (in volts mode, WRT ground) on whatever pin is supposed to supply LED power, and see if it goes "hot". It could be an issue with the code.
Just isolate every single part, to see which one failed. I hope it's something simple like putting them in backwards :p
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the foam do you mean the cabinet liner?
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About the LED's: you can check if they're okay if your DMM has a diode mode: connect it, reverse it, and see what the Vf (forward voltage drop) of the LED is (sometimes it won't work, depending on the LED: high power CREE ones usually won't 'cause they're like 3.5V). Alternatively, put it in ohms mode, and see if there's continuity in one direction, and not for the other. If you can, test it in something else. I usually just grab a battery, and small resistor.
Before soldering LED's, I bend them by taking the longer wire, and making a dimple, and bending them out just a little. This is enough for contact, so it works out. I have an amp that I still haven't soldered the LED to it yet, 'cause it worked out so well.
You can test the PCB by ohm-ing out the trace. Maybe they missed a via or something? You can also put your DMM (in volts mode, WRT ground) on whatever pin is supposed to supply LED power, and see if it goes "hot". It could be an issue with the code.
Just isolate every single part, to see which one failed. I hope it's something simple like putting them in backwards :p
Damn it! It was me not knowing positive from negative! I desoldered the LEDs, flip it over, and the work now!
the foam do you mean the cabinet liner?
Yes, but need to be very thin.
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Everyone, please laugh at me now. First I screwed up the polarity of the LEDs. Now, the LEDs are so damn bright! they hurt my eyes while sitting in a genuine Filco Tenkeyless case.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36843&d=1325917411)
Need to program the firmware to add strobe tactical mode.
[video=youtube;RZCZ5Wi1Q7I#t=9s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=RZCZ5Wi1Q7I#t=9s[/video]
Would a more resistive resistor make it dimer?
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Would a more resistive resistor make it dimer?
Glad to see it working =D Yes a higher resistor could do that, I had gotten the ides (quite wrong apparently) that LEDs really wanted to stay close to their nominal current. Turns out it doesn't matter too much. On white LEDs the different color components might drift by a different amount when under feeding them though. It shouldn't take me too long to set up the PWM mode for those two LED channels. After that you have 255 steps of brightness to choose from! But not right now, I've got too much else to do =P
(There needs to be a combo section for threads both on geekhack and deskthority...)
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Thanks PrinsValium. I won't have to desolder my super bright LEDs. Now I want an externally accessible firmware flash switch for Teensy.
Folks, please note that PrinsValium's PCB and plate design have passed my prototype tests with flying colors. And this is only our first test build. The only problems so far is me. My own errors. PrinsValium has done an awesome design job!!!
Now that I finished filing mounting plates and soldering components and worrying about why the LEDs didn't work, I thought about stabilizers more. The Cherry stabilizers have been working pretty good. I like them from the keyboard builder's perspective. They are very sturdy. They are more forgiving in cutout size. Their stabilizer bars have only 2 90-degree angle so they are easier to make. installing and removing keycaps are much, much easier than Costar. Costar stabilizers are such a pain to work with.
And now that I have installed and pulled keycaps off of these Cherry stabilizers many, many times the last few days, the notch we cut out to fit a Costar stabilizer at the same place actually hasn't been a huge problem. Most of the time the stabilizer inserts stay in the cut out even though the hook isn't catching the plate at all. Sometimes they do come out because of the notch. But you can just push it back right it. Much less painful than the Costar stabilizers where you have to put the stabilizer inserts back in place.
Costar stabilizer clips works better with plates that are a little thinner than the plate we have. Whereas Cherry stabilizers can deal with the exact 1/16" plate thickness of the Phantom. My Costar problem is also because that the Costar stabilizers I have are from some 15, 20 year-old keyboard, so my results is still kind of inconclusive.
So, here is what I am going to do. I just ordered a few sets of Costar stabilizers from WASDkeyboards.com. When they arrive, I will desolder a few switches to remove my Cherry stabilizers. Then, at the locations where Costar stabilizer clips are installed, I will file those places at an angle to make those edges a little thinner. Then I will install Costar stabilizers and solder the switches back on to test them. Spacebar would still be an issue. the stabilizer bars WASDkeyboards.com sells are 6.25x wide. I think most of us will want to use Cherry double shot 1.5x modifiers and 7x spacebars. Cherry stabilizer bars are relatively easier to bend than Costar's. Costar's stabilizer bars have 4 90-degree angle bends plus 2 Z bends. It is a lot harder to bend them accurately. At least it is for me. So for spacebars we have these options: Cherry any length (as they are easy to bend), and Costar 6.25x from WASDKeyboards. Backspace, Enter, Shifts could be either type, if my costar stabilizers from WASDKeyboards.com passes my Phantom compatibility tests.
What do you guys think?
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HGreat to hear im putting in a order into WASD keyboards as well for some.
does it matter that I ordered my switches on DT i did so because I thought is was a separate GB. I have not put in my order here yet for the actual PCBs and plates. How should I handle this?
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For making stabilizers, have you tried a wire bending tool like the ones for making model aircraft pushrods?
Here is an example:
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/model_aircraft_hardware/l-bends_and_z-bends.htm
Here is the tool I have used.
http://www.stevensaero.com/Du-Bro-RC-E-Z-Bender-Wire-Forming-Tool-2-DUB481-p-20395.html
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don't worry, when 7bit comes out of his Group Buy 4 dungeon, he will get back on this group buy. He combines orders from DT and GH together to create the final order list. I am sure he will send an invoice to your email address to let you know what you have on order.
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Pictures I told the last few days while I was building the Phantom prototype, plus a few new pictures I took today.
Removing spacers from Teensy legs so Teensy can get as close to the PCB as possible:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36883[/ATTACH]
Teensy's legs through PCB, need to cut leg flush to PCB before soldering or the legs would interfere with switches F3, F4, 4, 5.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36882[/ATTACH]
PCB with Doides soldered:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36879[/ATTACH]
PCB with Teensy soldered:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36878[/ATTACH]
The wrong way to solder Teensy, legs too long:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36877[/ATTACH]
Closeup of Teensy on PCB:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36881[/ATTACH]
PrinsValium changed the firmware so the LEDs are not so bright. It is perfect now!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36876[/ATTACH]
Phantom living inside my mutilated clear acrylic case, which should give everyone a good idea where everything is:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36875[/ATTACH]
This is probably the first time you see how the USB cable comes out from the back. that opening works perfectly for Filco's cable, very secure. For Phantom, I zip-tied the USB cable to the Phantom PCB, and the hole appears to be too large, but the cable is very secure. I found out Goldtouch's USB cable is exactly the same as Filco's. I just have not tried using it on a Filco, and that it is missing Filco's Ferrite.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36874[/ATTACH]
End result:
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36873&d=1325977156)
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PrinsValim has made it that you can change one value in the firmware code to adjust the LEDs' brightness. Also, strobe tactical mode is now available as an option! LOL!
[video=youtube;qNSAMBdpbow]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNSAMBdpbow[/video]
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Also, strobe tactical mode is now available as an option! LOL!
(http://ikbenmoe.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/yoda.gif)
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Seizure! Seizure!
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dam those leds are bright.. and that pulsing lol.
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dam those leds are bright.. and that pulsing lol.
yes OMG!
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And I thought the Poker LED was bright enough, clearly litster had to one up that rofl
litster, do you know what colour you would be offering the casing yet? ie white or black and then a bunch of colour for the middle colour one? Or are you making all the selection smaller to get better pricing?
Reason I ask is because I think I want a white one and a black one now, and I would get every colour that's offered for the middle so I can swap it around later :P
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I plan to focus on one color scheme only. At least the first batch. If there is enough demand, I could make a second run with a different scheme. If you have one of each, you could have 4 color combo options. It is actually super expensive to do one-offs. Material is cheap relatively. But there is a lot of throw-away material from cutting. The setup fees and laser time are the biggest cost.
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I'll just wait for you to set that part up then :)
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Perhaps I can assist with some laser cutting duties.
I messaged litster already.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]36947[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]36948[/ATTACH]
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2 trolls handling laser machines.
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I take it there is plenty of extra room on the teensy for more code/options? :p
That's a nice effect, but I certainly wouldn't use it: Too distracting, I'd spend all my time watching it, and not enough on typing!
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I take it there is plenty of extra room on the teensy for more code/options? :p
That's a nice effect, but I certainly wouldn't use it: Too distracting, I'd spend all my time watching it, and not enough on typing!
I really just put it in to test that the PWM was functioning. It was the simplest I could come up with. The Teensy is probably ridiculously overpowered for a keyboard. There should be plenty of cycles left to play with =)
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I think I saw on the loader that only 8% of storage is used. There is plenty of room to add features.
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Is the plate really only going to be compatible with cherry stabilizers? As now that WASD has them Costar are readily available those would be preferred.
Also once you have the time a complete list of parts needed to build this would be nice along with what can be and what cant be purchased in the groupbuy. If I remember correcty only Red and Clear switches have made the cut for orders correct?
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Is the plate really only going to be compatible with cherry stabilizers? As now that WASD has them Costar are readily available those would be preferred.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=485235&viewfull=1#post485235
Also once you have the time a complete list of parts needed to build this would be nice along with what can be and what cant be purchased in the groupbuy. If I remember correcty only Red and Clear switches have made the cut for orders correct?
I will post more about the parts list later. It maybe a few days to a week away. Red and clear have passed MOQ. Others haven't yet. Keep the orders coming. For switches below MOQ, we will try to buy them from Mouser, but will be at a higher price.
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http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=485235&viewfull=1#post485235
I will post more about the parts list later. It maybe a few days to a week away. Red and clear have passed MOQ. Others haven't yet. Keep the orders coming. For switches below MOQ, we will try to buy them from Mouser, but will be at a higher price.
ok cool on the stabilizer can wait to see the results. Ok cant wait as i would like to get things together best I can before the fact.
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Before the fact? So you want to make things up? LOL! Take it easy. No need to hurry up and wait. You don't need to be ready until we are ready. :D
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Before the fact? So you want to make things up? LOL! Take it easy. No need to hurry up and wait. You don't need to be ready until we are ready. :D
Well im order some stuff for both my DOX and the phantom if I could order the parts together that would be prefered to save on bulk costs and on shipping. Also when building on a budget it takes some time for some stuff to get here from all the different places.
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I was going to try blues, but the best buy in gainesville failed me. It was more like loseville. I will have to try elsewhere.
I'm still on the fence between blue/clear, but I'm on clear for now, as it should be a little cheaper.
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Started up a assembly service in my subforum (http://tinyurl.com/7eyjsvw) if anyone is interested.
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You may want to look at selling the PCB on Sparkfun's site. They handle all the logistics and first level tech support.
http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/92
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I have a draft of Phantom soldering instruction here: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Instruction
I still need to upload more pictures, but 95% of the steps are there.
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ph7bit: 579 switches
wtf:?
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Yeah, it's actually like 100.
Any idea what sort of file I should buy to square off the corners?
That's a good writeup! I'll probably use a DMM in amps mode to short switches (It's a bit easier with the probes)
Why can't the Teensy touch the PCB? they're both covered in nonconductive soldermask, right?
Also, an step 19, you can say that if they're too bright, you can also up the resistance, and if they're too dim you can lower it. I like to think of this as gain vs volume.
step 20: "bended" should be "bent"
Finally: maybe you shroud include pictures of the PCB somewhere for reference.
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Also, an step 19, you can say that if they're too bright, you can also up the resistance, and if they're too dim you can lower it. I like to think of this as gain vs volume.
Contrary to what I used to think I have learned that this is ok. Though I'm not sure of how far it is possible to lower the current through a LED, perhaps you can enlighten me (oh the puns..). One thing I read though is that there might be a color shift when under powering LEDs. This shouldn't be too noticeable with single colored LEDs, but in white LEDs the different color components might drift by different amounts, or at least the intensity of the individual colors. And also PWM'ing the LEDs isn't very hard once the correct registers to use have been figured out =P
Edit: I think the 579 switches is an intended joke directed at 7bits fascination with filling the board up =)
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And also PWM'ing the LEDs isn't very hard once the correct registers to use have been figured out =P
Yes, and you can do nice effects... but one thing you cannot do is slowly pulse the LEDs when in sleep mode, because Apple patented (http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2010/08/26/reverse-engineering-the-mac-breathing-led-2/) that!
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Yes, and you can do nice effects... but one thing you cannot do is slowly pulse the LEDs when in sleep mode, because Apple patented (http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2010/08/26/reverse-engineering-the-mac-breathing-led-2/) that!
Well, I guess we perhaps shouldn't provide firmware that does it, and certainly not sell it.. But explaining how to do it, or at least figuring it out yourself and implementing it on your own shouldn't be a problem =)
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Yes, and you can do nice effects... but one thing you cannot do is slowly pulse the LEDs when in sleep mode, because Apple patented (http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2010/08/26/reverse-engineering-the-mac-breathing-led-2/) that!
lol, I hope this is an attempt at humor, because it is completely wrong. You can build a keyboard with a slowly pulsing LED array and not worry about Apple's patent. Patents only prevent you from profiting from the technology, not from using it yourself. So you can make your own pulsating LED and still be completely within your rights under the law, but you would not legally be able to sell it to somebody else. However, if you did sell your personal creation to another person, how is Apple going to find out? And second, are they really going to invest the money to sue you to recover the profit you made from the sale? It would cost them $200K to recover $100. The patent is used to prevent another computer company from mass producing keyboards with pulsating LED's, without paying Apple a royalty or license fee. Apple doesn't give a r@ts @ss what you are making in your basement. But if you feel guilty about it, I guess you could send them some money as an ad hoc "license fee", and I'm sure Tim Cook will cash the check (b/c he's a greedy bastard).
Oh, and I want to make my own Phantom, btw, so I'm in for a set of parts. I just sent Phantom my order.
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Yeah, it's actually like 100.
Any idea what sort of file I should buy to square off the corners?
That's a good writeup! I'll probably use a DMM in amps mode to short switches (It's a bit easier with the probes)
Why can't the Teensy touch the PCB? they're both covered in nonconductive soldermask, right?
Also, an step 19, you can say that if they're too bright, you can also up the resistance, and if they're too dim you can lower it. I like to think of this as gain vs volume.
step 20: "bended" should be "bent"
Finally: maybe you shroud include pictures of the PCB somewhere for reference.
Thanks for proving reading the wiki, dorkvader. I will make the changes. Keep the suggestions and bugs coming. Yes, the 579 number is a joke. I was going to count, and then I saw the plate layout on my screen, and I thought, there are a million of them! LOL! So I made it up and see who gets the joke. :D
For brightness, we making changes is alway easier to do it in the software/firmware than the hardware. So once the resistors are soldered, you don't really want to go through take them off if the light up the LEDs. If you soldered the resistors on the top side of the PCB, you would have to desolder all the switches to remove the plate to get to the resistors on the PCB. If you solder them on the back of the PCB, it could potentially interfere with the supporting ridges on the bottom of the Filco case, certainly would with my acrylic case.
Changing brightness in the firmware takes 15 seconds from change a value in a editor, up-arrow in the CMD box to bring back your last command "make" hit enter, then press the reset button on Teensy. If Teensy programmer is already running and set to auto mode. Firmware is loaded in 2 seconds after you press the reset button and you can be typing again. Very slick.
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This custom keyboard is looking really cool. I'm not too late to get in on it am I? I didn't see anything announcing the end of ordering.
I was thinking about the 7bit layout. That means I would need the following right?
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PH7BIT 1
DIODE 100
As well as whatever type of switch I want.
I have some other questions that I thought were answered but I can't seem to find:
What size are the all these special keys so I know what caps to look for
Where is the code and such for the teensy. I have several ideas I'd like to explore.
Has anyone figured out if you can order just the filco case without the innards? The case you are making looks cool but since I will be carrying my keyboard everywhere (and I travel a lot) I think I'll need a case made of a harder plastic.
Any suggestions and answers would be appreciated.
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Contrary to what I used to think I have learned that this is ok. Though I'm not sure of how far it is possible to lower the current through a LED, perhaps you can enlighten me (oh the puns..). One thing I read though is that there might be a color shift when under powering LEDs. This shouldn't be too noticeable with single colored LEDs, but in white LEDs the different color components might drift by different amounts, or at least the intensity of the individual colors. And also PWM'ing the LEDs isn't very hard once the correct registers to use have been figured out =P
Edit: I think the 579 switches is an intended joke directed at 7bits fascination with filling the board up =)
Hmm, My initial thought was wrong, but I still have a point: Controlling the LED brightness via PWM is a good idea, but you sholud have a "max" brightness in mind. as if you're already at 100% duty cycle, it can't get any brighter without more current. Since you can go conceivably pretty low with PWM, maybe the best option is to set the "max" current with the resistor in the hardware, and lower the brightness with PWM.
Also, can you set the frequency above 60Hz? If so: that's awesome. If not, I'll go with my resistors, thanks.
Thanks for proving reading the wiki, dorkvader. I will make the changes. Keep the suggestions and bugs coming. Yes, the 579 number is a joke. I was going to count, and then I saw the plate layout on my screen, and I thought, there are a million of them! LOL! So I made it up and see who gets the joke. :D
Ah, I see!
For brightness, we making changes is alway easier to do it in the software/firmware than the hardware. So once the resistors are soldered, you don't really want to go through take them off if the light up the LEDs. If you soldered the resistors on the top side of the PCB, you would have to desolder all the switches to remove the plate to get to the resistors on the PCB. If you solder them on the back of the PCB, it could potentially interfere with the supporting ridges on the bottom of the Filco case, certainly would with my acrylic case.
while I still prefer to program in solder, I think I agree with you.
Changing brightness in the firmware takes 15 seconds from change a value in a editor, up-arrow in the CMD box to bring back your last command "make" hit enter, then press the reset button on Teensy. If Teensy programmer is already running and set to auto mode. Firmware is loaded in 2 seconds after you press the reset button and you can be typing again. Very slick.
wow, I like it! And programming in keys is easy too? I may want to be able to give my dvorak layout to a computer that's expecting QWERTY (or have a mode that does so), which would bake it easier to game. Some programs won't let you use comma or period as directional keys.
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Also, can you set the frequency above 60Hz? If so: that's awesome. If not, I'll go with my resistors, thanks.
If the PWM timer counts at the same frequency as the processor clock (which I am not sure of) the blinking frequency should come out at ~60kHz if the Teensy is set to operate at 16MHz. I had put a 1 in the wrong place in the symmetric stagger keyboard firmware. The LEDs were noticeably blinking when not looking directly at them. Putting the 1 in the correct position removed a 1024 divider from the clock =)
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This custom keyboard is looking really cool. I'm not too late to get in on it am I? I didn't see anything announcing the end of ordering.
I was thinking about the 7bit layout. That means I would need the following right?
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PH7BIT 1
DIODE 100
As well as whatever type of switch I want.
I have some other questions that I thought were answered but I can't seem to find:
What size are the all these special keys so I know what caps to look for
Where is the code and such for the teensy. I have several ideas I'd like to explore.
Has anyone figured out if you can order just the filco case without the innards? The case you are making looks cool but since I will be carrying my keyboard everywhere (and I travel a lot) I think I'll need a case made of a harder plastic.
Any suggestions and answers would be appreciated.
That sounds about right. You won't need any stabilizers for the 7BIT layout. I don't know the sizes for the special keys. In 7bit's Round 4 group buy, there is Phantom key set you can order. I don't know what is included though. I think TheProfosist is also into the 7bit layout. He maybe able to help on 7bit related questions.
I have the teensy source code. I can upload it later. I have checked. You can't buy just the Filco case. PLU's tenkeyless case is apparently a copy of Filco's case. You could get a PLU tenkeyless keyboard for cheap and use its case instead. I am not sure PLU is plate mount or PCB mount. If it is plate mount then you can de-solder switches off of the PLU keyboard and no need to order switches. If it is PCB mount, you will need new switches, or just cut the extra legs off of the switches' bottom.
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wow, I like it! And programming in keys is easy too? I may want to be able to give my dvorak layout to a computer that's expecting QWERTY (or have a mode that does so), which would bake it easier to game. Some programs won't let you use comma or period as directional keys.
Programming keys is super simple. The keys in the source code is listed in rows and column. Find the right location for your switch and you can change it to what you want. That is just for straight key presses. If you want to program macros, that will be extra work. What I would like to see is to adopt Soarer's code base to make it programmable on the fly like AIKON. His version also has NKRO over USB and BIOS boot support at the same time. But what we have now is super good already.
while I still prefer to program in solder, I think I agree with you.
Here are the LEDs and resistors I picked out:
white 3mm T1 3.5V LED: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=350-2318-ND&x=0&y=0
75ohm resistors ±1% tolerance: http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/RNF14FTD75R0/RNF14FTD75R0CT-ND/1974978
I agree with you that we should choose the right resistors so it has a lower maximum brightness, and we can do small adjustment with firmware changes. Help us pick a new resistor for us and I will include that in the parts list.
Thanks.
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I agree with you that we should choose the right resistors so it has a lower maximum brightness, and we can do small adjustment with firmware changes. Help us pick a new resistor for us and I will include that in the parts list.
Thanks.
Well, It depends on the datasheet for the LED, I'll look through it and come up with something more suitable. If people want super bright, then the current value is fine, but I can do some calculations for a more "reasonable" brightness without PWM, though the PWM is well done here, so it's not a huge issue.
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That sounds about right. You won't need any stabilizers for the 7BIT layout. I don't know the sizes for the special keys. In 7bit's Round 4 group buy, there is Phantom key set you can order. I don't know what is included though. I think TheProfosist is also into the 7bit layout. He maybe able to help on 7bit related questions.
I have the teensy source code. I can upload it later. I have checked. You can't buy just the Filco case. PLU's tenkeyless case is apparently a copy of Filco's case. You could get a PLU tenkeyless keyboard for cheap and use its case instead. I am not sure PLU is plate mount or PCB mount. If it is plate mount then you can de-solder switches off of the PLU keyboard and no need to order switches. If it is PCB mount, you will need new switches, or just cut the extra legs off of the switches' bottom.
I modified 7bits layout a bit so that I could get all my caps with custom legends for the layout I made. The change is with the size of the keys in the bottom row and the return which should be a R2 1.25x sadly has to use a R1 1.25x as WASD can not get the correct size key. I have already tried the different profile key on one of my keyboard and its not much different and may actually help you find the return key since it is smaller. The custom plate is because I wanted a ISO like left shift not what ever 7bit had.
Yes I bought 3 PLUs from qtan to use for switches and case. The PLU is the exact same as the first gen Filco from what I can tell so it is plate mount. And cutting the legs off the bottom work fine as long as you have a wire cutter that cuts flush.
Also noticed in the assembly that you mentioned both cherry and costar stabilizers
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OK, so my take on proof reading =)
step 2. addition -> additional
step 4. I think there is a real hazard that the cherry stabilizer comes apart if pulling it out of the plate. The wire coming out of the mounts. That would take some soldering or very icky fiddling to get back together...
step 5. I find that it is a good idea to first only mount a few switches at strategic locations to only hold the plate in position above the PCB before putting the rest in. It is tricky to get all little switch legs to find there holes otherwise. A slight bend and it easily ends up flattened to the switch bottom instead of in its hole. The ISO <> next to left shift is also mounted upside down, and it is the ISO enter that is rotated 90 degrees (this is due to costar stabilizer compatibility).
step 6. A very good tip. it will be a lot harder to fix this later on. Stress this in bold red =)
step 7-10. I usually insert all diodes first, bending their legs on the back for them to stay in place. Sometimes I bend them back before soldering, other times I don't. Cutting legs after soldering might induce micro fractures in the solder joint (so I've read at least) but I've never bothered to cut before soldering and it have worked out fine this far (might be more important with really high frequency signals).
step 12. potentially NKRO!!1
step 18. I think your LEDs are 3.5V 20mA, both voltage and current rating matters for the required resistor. In ubuntu the scroll lock led is deactivated by default. And I think each keyboards caps lock led is activated separately... The anode of LEDs is usually a little longer, it is also usually possible to look inside the LED to identify the anode (the internal metal parts have different sizes). The anode should be connected to the round hole of the LED footprints.
step 20. see step 5
And yes, the timer that controls the PWM runs at the "systems" (the Teensy in this case) clock frequency, 16MHz if not scaled down. This gives a blinking of ~60kHz, that is no flickering =) It should also be possible to run the PWM in 16bit mode to achieve 65536 steps of intensity =D
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Thanks for the feedback, Prinsvalium. I added them to the wiki, some as pro tip from you. I will edit them later. Thanks. I should receive my Costar stabilizers this week for testing. Hopefully we will know if we could do both or just one type of stabilizers. I am not sure how to avoid dislodging the Cherry stabilizer bars if you pull the keycap out too hard. Glue? Not support Costar stabilizers?
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@litster
Will your teensy source work with the Teensy++? Not sure if it had to be written differently. For how long with you guys allow orders? I just about have my solder station setup so looking forward to start on this project after I finish up an imod.
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I'm highly interested in building one of these boards, but the listed cost of components puts this project out of my price range :(
Nevertheless, I'll be keeping my eye on this thread.
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@litster
Will your teensy source work with the Teensy++? Not sure if it had to be written differently. For how long with orders be taken? I just about got my solder station setup so looking forward to start on this project after I finish up an imod.
The only real thing that needs to be changed is the chip specification in the Makefile. Pin names and functions differ from the different chips, although I don't know the differences by heart. I use essentially the same code for my Symmetric Stagger Board, which uses the Teensy++.
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And the firmware is PrinsValium's creation, not mine. He deserves all the credit for this project! =D :clap2:
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And the firmware is PrinsValium's creation, not mine. He deserves all the credit for this project! =D :clap2:
Well... all the real low level programming was done by someone else. My code is a simple add-on to the usb_keyboard example from pjrc (http://pjrc.com/teensy/usb_keyboard.html).
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Well... all the real low level programming was done by someone else. My code is a simple add-on to the usb_keyboard example from pjrc (http://pjrc.com/teensy/usb_keyboard.html).
Would you be willing to modify the firmware to my layout if you have time?
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Phantom firmware attached:
It is very straight forward to change. Download install the compiler you need here: http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/gcc.html
Also install the firmware uploader here: http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html
In phantom.c, look for the section below. Find the switch you want to change on the PCB, note the row and column numbers. Find the row and column in the code, change it to the key you want it to be. Repeat for all the keys you want to change. Then save it, build it, and upload it. As simple as that.
const uint8_t is_modifier[NKEY] = {
true, true, false, false, false, false, // COL 0
true, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 1
true, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 2
NA, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 3
NA, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 4
NA, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 5
NA, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 6
false, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 7
NA, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 8
NA, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 9
true, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 10
true, false, false, false, false, false, // COL 11
false, NA, false, false, NA, false, // COL 12
true, true, false, false, false, false, // COL 13
false, NA, NA, false, false, false, // COL 14
false, false, NA, false, false, false, // COL 15
false, NA, NA, false, false, false, // COL 16
};
const uint8_t layout[NKEY] = {
//ROW 0 ROW 1 ROW 2 ROW 3 ROW 4
KEY_LEFT_CTRL, KEY_LEFT_SHIFT, KEY_CAPS_LOCK, KEY_TAB, KEY_1, KEY_ESC, // COL 0
KEY_LEFT_GUI, KEY_PIPE, KEY_A, KEY_Q, KEY_2, KEY_TILDE, // COL 1
KEY_LEFT_ALT, KEY_Z, KEY_S, KEY_W, KEY_3, KEY_F1, // COL 2
NA, KEY_X, KEY_D, KEY_E, KEY_4, KEY_F2, // COL 3
NA, KEY_C, KEY_F, KEY_R, KEY_5, KEY_F3, // COL 4
NA, KEY_V, KEY_G, KEY_T, KEY_6, KEY_F4, // COL 5
NA, KEY_B, KEY_H, KEY_Y, KEY_7, KEY_F5, // COL 6
KEY_SPACE, KEY_N, KEY_J, KEY_U, KEY_8, KEY_F6, // COL 7
NA, KEY_M, KEY_K, KEY_I, KEY_9, KEY_F7, // COL 8
NA, KEY_COMMA, KEY_L, KEY_O, KEY_0, KEY_F8, // COL 9
KEY_RIGHT_ALT, KEY_PERIOD, KEY_SEMICOLON, KEY_P, KEY_MINUS, KEY_F9, // COL 10
KEY_RIGHT_GUI, KEY_SLASH, KEY_QUOTE, KEY_LEFT_BRACE, KEY_EQUAL, KEY_F10, // COL 11
KEY_APPLICATION, NA, KEY_BACKSLASH, KEY_RIGHT_BRACE, NA, KEY_F11, // COL 12
KEY_RIGHT_CTRL, KEY_RIGHT_SHIFT, KEY_ENTER, KEY_BACKSLASH, KEY_BACKSPACE, KEY_F12, // COL 13
KEY_LEFT, NA, NA, KEY_DELETE, KEY_INSERT, KEY_PRINTSCREEN,// COL 14
KEY_DOWN, KEY_UP, NA, KEY_END, KEY_HOME, KEY_SCROLL_LOCK,// COL 15
KEY_RIGHT, NA, NA, KEY_PAGE_DOWN, KEY_PAGE_UP, KEY_PAUSE, // COL 16
};
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Thanks for all the information guys and thanks for posting the code. :)
Looking around, the black filco with brown keys seems to be unavailable on amazon ATM. The PLU is on ebay but has very expensive shipping from china.
I might get the white one from amazon. To be sure I am getting the right one, the pcb was designed round the filco Majestouch-2 right?
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Both Majestouch1 and Majestouch2 have the same cases and PCB/plate shape. Either would be fine. But I would get a MJ2. TheProfosist has a deal with qtan for a good price for PLU. Check with qtan.
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Thanks for all the information guys and thanks for posting the code. :)
Looking around, the black filco with brown keys seems to be unavailable on amazon ATM. The PLU is on ebay but has very expensive shipping from china.
I might get the white one from amazon. To be sure I am getting the right one, the pcb was designed round the filco Majestouch-2 right?
I ordered directly from qtan got a board for 68$ i think shipping was $10
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Awesome thanks, placed my order with a few browns to go with the ones on the PLU.
I looked at the code last night. It seems pretty clean and easy to understand.
I plan on adding support for switching between layouts and the ability to have multiple layers via Fn key. http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:14618 has this plus more already so I might try to adapt some of that.
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Awesome thanks, placed my order with a few browns to go with the ones on the PLU.
I looked at the code last night. It seems pretty clean and easy to understand.
I plan on adding support for switching between layouts and the ability to have multiple layers via Fn key. http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:14618 has this plus more already so I might try to adapt some of that.
That would be great if you could do that as I need those functions as well the firmware from the DOX is already capable of everything that I am looking for I just dont know how to implement it on the Phantom.
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I'm thinking of getting in on this deal to force me to learn how to solder (among other reasons none of which have to do with a keyboard addiction). But looking at the ANSI layout, I am wondering how hard is it to find 1.5x keys? The only Cherry sets I've seen for sale recently have the 1.25x keys.
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If you don't have 1.5x modifiers but you have 1.25x modifiers, get the PHANSI125 plate. If you do have 1.5x modifiers, get the PHANSI50 plate.
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If you don't have 1.5x modifiers but you have 1.25x modifiers, get the PHANSI125 plate. If you do have 1.5x modifiers, get the PHANSI50 plate.
according to the OP that is supposed to be PHANSI for 1.5 and PHANSIWIN for 1.25
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I'm thinking of getting in on this deal to force me to learn how to solder (among other reasons none of which have to do with a keyboard addiction). But looking at the ANSI layout, I am wondering how hard is it to find 1.5x keys? The only Cherry sets I've seen for sale recently have the 1.25x keys.
I'm pretty sure WASDkeyboards can help you out with that. Also, I think the keys on winkeyless boards are usually about that size, though I don't know any specifics. "tab" and "shift"(right) on my WYSE boards look about right, though.
This is a pretty good project to start on (better than my first was: what a nightmare!) it's all through hole. Don't burn anything!
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I'm pretty sure WASDkeyboards can help you out with that. Also, I think the keys on winkeyless boards are usually about that size, though I don't know any specifics. "tab" and "shift"(right) on my WYSE boards look about right, though.
This is a pretty good project to start on (better than my first was: what a nightmare!) it's all through hole. Don't burn anything!
WASD cant get a hold of R1 1.50x keys thats why my layout is modified a bit from 7bits in the area of keycap sizes.
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If you don't have 1.5x modifiers but you have 1.25x modifiers, get the PHANSI125 plate. If you do have 1.5x modifiers, get the PHANSI50 plate.
Ahh, but I really want to be part of the cool kids club! ;-) My current set of doubleshots have the 1.25x keys as do the next ones that are incoming. However, I would actually prefer to have 1.5x keys instead. I'm pretty new to this whole thing and still learning about keys, so I just wanted to make sure I don't order the PHANSI plate then find out that the 1.5x are as hard to come by as, say the Cherry red Esc. I'm sure they are not, I'm just figuring out where to look.
For example, it looks like most Cherry terminal keyboards had 1.5x modifiers right (like the G80-2551HAD)?
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Most G80 or G81 Cherry keyboards without the Windows keys have 1.5x modifiers. Ascaii might still have some beige Cherry double shots left. I think someone is also doing a black Cherry double shot group buy. Also, 7bit's group buy 4 has 1.5x modifiers in some keys. You just need to find out which sets have 1.5x modifiers. Check out his wiki on deskthority.net for more info, or ask on the group buy 4 thread. Good luck.
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I highly doubt that it will have 1.5x modifiers. Modern keyboards all have 2 windows keys and an app menu key. There is no room for 1.5x modifiers unless your spacebar is super short. And making it 1.5x modifier would just make their keycaps incompatible with most, if not all, of the new modern keyboards out there.
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/4/4d/Japanese_realforce_91uby_large.jpg)
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I highly doubt that it will have 1.5x modifiers. Modern keyboards all have 2 windows keys and an app menu key. There is no room for 1.5x modifiers unless your spacebar is super short.
Unicomp has (what looks like) 1.5 control keys, and 1.25 win, app, alt for a really short space bar.
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my 87UB 45g has 1.5x ctrl and alt but 1x Win and Menu
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The Realforces (and others?) use a different setup for the spacebar row than the Filcos
1.50 1.00 1.50 6.00 1.50 1.00 1.00 1.50 instead of
1.25 1.25 1.25 6.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25
The Phantom PCB is designed to house the Realforce spacebar row setup as well as the different setups used on common Cherry switch boards.
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The Phantom PCB is designed to house the Realforce spacebar row setup as well as the different setups used on common Cherry switch boards.
I really appreciate that you did that. Unfortunately, the plates do not support it.
I don't think that modifying it for the switch positions will be a problem, but i am afraid that the 6-unit space bar's right stabilizer won't sit properly because the new hole would be a larger version of an existing hole. I have looked at instead using PCB-mounted stabilizers for the space bar, but there are leads on the PCB where I would drill those holes.
the PBT DyeSub keys are attractive to guys who are currently using DS keys on the OTD custom boards, i'm sure they'd still quite a few sets to those guys if they made 1.5x keys available.
Unfortunately, Cherry's dye-sub keys from the bottom row of a G80-3000 have a higher profile than the bottom row of winkeyful beige/grey G80-1800. This means that there are no matching Windows keys for the dye-sub Ctrl and Alt keys to use on the Phantom.
Edit: WHOA!! I posted my 1313:th posts on Friday the 13th ...
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This is why IBM had the best idea of same-profile keys on a curved plate.Then you get the profile just fine, and it's super simple to swap keys around.
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Their 2 piece keycaps are amazing also
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why do you guys have to keep killing my dreams?! i just want thick PBT dyesubs to mirror the 86U layout. :cry:
in all reality, i'd have to use a blank for the bottom row. the only crappy part is the only key that matches that profile at 1x is the ./del key from the numpad. /sigh/
You can use the arrow keys as well.
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I really appreciate that you did that. Unfortunately, the plates do not support it.
No, I don't know how popular it would have been and we don't want more alternatives than there already are. I can of course make a DXF file for any setup you want, and you can have it made yourself. That goes for all of you guys, tell me your plate preferences and I can set you up with the drawing.
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No, I don't know how popular it would have been and we don't want more alternatives than there already are. I can of course make a DXF file for any setup you want, and you can have it made yourself. That goes for all of you guys, tell me your plate preferences and I can set you up with the drawing.
Yea thanks for making my plate for me that non standard left shift on the 7bit layout just didnt jive with me.
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Here (http://flickr.com/gp/67486915@N03/8q1f56) is a little video to explain what PWM is all about.
The output on the selected pin is high only during a certain percentage of the time (the duty cycle). This is all done in hardware separate from the actual CPU kernel. So no processor cycles are used to achieve the on and off the LED. The image isn't super clear but the frequency is 62.5kHz, the duty cycle of the blue channel is 50%, and the yellow channel varies between 0% and 100%.
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I can of course make a DXF file for any setup you want, and you can have it made yourself.
I have already modified the drawing that you posted a while back. That is how I discovered the issue. :)
I think that having a one-off commissioned would cost more than I would be willing to spend for this keyboard. I think that it would be easier for me to just cut a plastic insert out of plexi to fill the hole next to the right stabilizer mount. I could cast copies in polyurethane resin if there is interest.
Hmm.. I wonder if the plate from a (broken) Xarmor / QPad keyboard would fit ... It seems to have the right layout for the bottom row, but I dunno about the spacing between key groups. Of course it needs to be cut to size, but I don't see that any other mods would be needed.
Anyway, have you decided which type of stabilizers to use?
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Time permitting, this weekend I will change out the Cherry stabilizers on the prototype with new Costar stabilizers I received from WASDKeyboards.com yesterday.
Meanwhile, BiNiaRiS received a test plate from a new shop he found. This plate was lasercut, not watercut. The result is better. BiNiaRiS need to check with the shop next week as he has a few questions for them.
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Hey guys I uploaded a preliminary version of tmk's code that supports the phantom keyboard: https://github.com/riffautae/tmk_keyboard
This compiles on my machine however its otherwise untested, if it burns down your house don't blame me :)
It is set up for NKRO and has one layer with a qwerty layout.
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Hey guys I uploaded a preliminary version of tmk's code that supports the phantom keyboard: https://github.com/riffautae/tmk_keyboard
This compiles on my machine however its otherwise untested, if it burns down your house don't blame me :)
It is set up for NKRO and has one layer with a qwerty layout.
Sweet! Does it support BIOS boot as well? I can load it up on to the Phantom to test it out. The prototype is being taken apart to install new Costar stabilizers :-)
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I think so, AFAIK the 'boot protocol' means it sends Usage Page 7 for the main keys and doesn't do anything weird in the descriptors; and I think it does that.
EDIT: It uses a modified version of the PJRC example keyboard driver which does support it, so the chances are pretty good.
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Holy smokes! I am typing on Costar stabilizers!
[holding down Shift]THE SHIFT KEYS DON"T STICK NO MOAR!!"[/holding down Shift]
It has to be pretty precisely installed though. All wide keys work. There is a little bit of a problem with PBT right shift (dye sub or laser), but no problem with regular double shots or SP's double shots. I have the same problem with PBT right shift keycaps on regular Filcos, so this is not unique to the Phantom design. I suspect that the PBT keycaps are a little bit too thick and it rubs against the bent up portion of Costar's stabilizer bar.
I will usage test this setup for a little while before making a call.
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The Phantom can support either right? So even if you decide on the Cherry stabilizer or the the Costar, the person building the board can technically use whichever or am I missing something?
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You missed my post from a week ago.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=485235&viewfull=1#post485235
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Holy smokes! other stuff
Mean! You got my hopes up for a second that my code worked first try :P
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Mean! You got my hopes up for a second that my code worked first try :P
I just downloaded the code, built it, and downloaded to the Teensy, but it doesn't work. I might have done something wrong. I went here: https://github.com/riffautae/tmk_keyboard/downloads
And downloaded the whole zip file, unzipped it to a folder, change directory to ..\phantom and typed "make". It built. But the resulting HEX file doesn't do anything except it installed like 7 drivers in Windows 7.
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DId you use the loader to upload to the device? http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html
Or do you mean after upload it just installed drivers?
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Yes, of course I used the loader to upload the new firmware build to the device :)
I loaded your version of the firmware, the Teensy rebooted, when it came back Win7 loaded a bunch of USB drivers. Then the keyboard doesn't do anything. I have since reverted back to PrinsValium's firmware and the keyboard is working again.
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ok I figured you knew what you were doing, just wanted to be sure. Hope I didn't insult you :P
I figured it wouldn't work the first time, I'll have to wait till I get a board to debug it. Thanks for trying it.
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No problem at all. I was hoping that it would work, too. We will try again later.
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There is a little bit of a problem with PBT right shift (dye sub or laser), but no problem with regular double shots or SP's double shots.
I suppose that the Costar stabilizer bar has to go on the side of the switch where the logo isn't..
Do you have the same problem if you reverse the key cap to point the other way, I.e up-side down?
If that works, then perhaps the stabilized switches should be rotated, so that a Costar stabilizer bar could go on the other side. I hope that it isn't too late to revise the PCB design ...
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I suppose that the Costar stabilizer bar has to go on the side of the switch where the logo isn't..
Do you have the same problem if you reverse the key cap to point the other way, I.e up-side down?
If that works, then perhaps the stabilized switches should be rotated, so that a Costar stabilizer bar could go on the other side. I hope that it isn't too late to revise the PCB design ...
I don't understand why we would rotate the switch or stabilizers to make it work for PBT keycaps.
EDIT: Let me re-state. Why would we rotate the switch or stabilizers to make Costar stabilizers work with Cherry PBT right shift keycap?
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I like how you talk to eachother both at GH and DT at the same time on different Phantom topics.,, =)
The switches are rotated the way they need to be for the Costar stabilizers to have a chance to work properly. Cherry stabilizers don't care which way the switch is rotated, with Costars it is essential. I and the solutor had a beef about this a while back. I'm not sure anymore if we just didn't understand each other or what, but I was correct, switch orientation matters highly with Costar stabilizers. The stabilizer has to be on the side of the switch where the LED holes are. That is why ISO enter (and numpad vertical keys) have their switches rotated by 90". Switch mounted LEDs also aren't compatible with Costar stabilizers.
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I have seen and used costar stabilized boards that have LEDs.
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I have seen and used costar stabilized boards that have LEDs.
Do you have pictures to show how costar stabilizer goes over the LED that is soldered onto the Cherry switch?
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Here (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20745-Up-side-down-cherry-switch) it is in all its gory glory, read and be amazed.
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Do you have pictures to show how costar stabilizer goes over the LED that is soldered onto the Cherry switch?
Sadly I do not. You would have to get a hold of someone with a mionix doesnt the razer black widow use coastar-esk stabilizers also?
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Hum, the solutor's last post on that thread didn't rebut your evident, just picked on other things you said about him. So he kind of admitted that he was wrong, but didn't say it :-).
Whether switch orientation is a problem or not. This is what I know:
- Filco (with Costar stabilizers) has the same incompatibility with the thicker Cherry PBT right shift keycap. This is not unique to Phantom.
- In Costar configuration, the Costar stabilizers locations on the Phantom plate is the same as in Filco.
- the plate design as it is now works with both Cherry stabilizers and Costar stabilizers.
- Cherry stabilizers work with keycaps from SP (thin), Cherry double shots (thick), and PBT right shift keycap (thicker). I should try Filco's right shift keycap for completeness sake, but I am sure it will work as they are thin and its profile has more room under the keycap.
- Most people do not have dye sub PBT keys because they are rare and very expensive.
- Most people do not use laser PBT keys because of low contrast.
- Most people do not have PBT green dye sub right shift from an RGB set.
- If you must use thick PBT right shift, you can use Cherry stabilizers instead of Costar stabilizers, possible with Phantom, not possible with anything else.
The first point alone would be enough to conclude there isn't a problem. Even if rotating the stabilizer is a solution, I don't see any reason why we would go through the trouble and cost to change the plate and/or PCB design to only make PBT right shift keycap work with Costar stabilizers. And doing such a change might actually break compatibility without keycaps.
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Sounds good glad that its compatible with both.
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I just uploaded a new version of the code.
I went through and thought about what the port related bit operations and such should be doing [before I just copy pasted some of that] and I fixed some things. I had some of the select/unselect operations reversed.
I also added some debug output so if you run http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/hid_listen.html and reboot the teensy you might get some output.
Is there a schematic for the pcb? I can make sure my assumptions are correct if I have that.
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I think you should be able to open this schematics file in KiCAD. It might provide enough information even if the components don't show up..
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Hmmm so I'm happy that Costar stabilizers work with Cherry RGB set but kind of sad that when I get my hands on a dyesub set I can't use it with these stabilizers.
litster, after you tried both do you prefer the Costar a lot more compared to the Cherry?
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Cherry and Costar both feel similar to me. Green right shift PBT dye sub key kinda works. It just doesn't bottoms out. I am still using it on the prototype right now.
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): Can't tell which way the diodes are going: [ATTACH=CONFIG]37597[/ATTACH]
Is there any way to export as png?
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Oh wait my RGB set is PBT dye subs lol thanks for reminding me
Maybe I'll just go with Cherry stabilizers just to be safe
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Mad props to alaricljs for all his help. Armed with his tips and hints, I bought a wire bender, found the right size of wires, and I can now make 7x Costar stabilizer bars. The first one took me an hour to make it right. Now I can make one in 5 minutes. I think Costar stabilizers for 7x spacebars is a go.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37620&d=1326679036)
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You are the man. Never surrender, kick its ass.
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It's all you man!
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37623&d=1326682840)
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): Can't tell which way the diodes are going: (Attachment) 37597[/ATTACH]
Is there any way to export as png?
Yeah, that looked pretty bad... =D Didn't even think of exporting it as an image =P
[ATTACH=CONFIG]37625[/ATTACH]
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Mad props to alaricljs for all his help. Armed with his tips and hints, I bought a wire bender, found the right size of wires, and I can now make 7x Costar stabilizer bars. The first one took me an hour to make it right. Now I can make one in 5 minutes. I think Costar stabilizers for 7x spacebars is a go.
lol, no proper wire, no problem litster will just learn to make his own hahaha.
You learned a lot from this GB I have to say, first the acrylic cases then more and more stuff as the days goes on
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No kidding. Geekhack is taking me to school!
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Indeed. It's been fun to watch this project unfold and follow your adventures litster. Truly an epic learning project in the best DIY tradition.
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Everytime litster hits a road block he comes back in like a day or 2 with a new solution it's crazy
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We are very close. BiNiaRiS found a new shop that can use plates with laser, and is more accurate. He is going to find out more and let us know. After that, I just need to finish the parts list and calculate costs. It has only been over 2 months since we started in early November.
Ah, I think of one open issue. What USB case should we use? I like the one on Filco, which has a thing that locks to the case. I wonder where to find something like it, or if we could add that plastic thinge to an existing cheapo USB cable. Any pointers?
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Ah, I think of one open issue. What USB case should we use? I like the one on Filco, which has a thing that locks to the case. I wonder where to find something like it, or if we could add that plastic thinge to an existing cheapo USB cable. Any pointers?
You mean female USB jacks, or a "cable gland" for the mini USB that plugs into the teensy?
You can get pretty good cable glands (I've salvaged my fair share) and strain relief from any decent parts supplier.
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If you asking about cables for brands I prefer Link Depot, Rosewill, and StarTech from Newegg. StarTech even has right or left angled ones which might be nice for that tight turn from the controller to go out the case.
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You can get pretty good cable glands (I've salvaged my fair share) and strain relief from any decent parts supplier.
Yes, I mean cable glands and strain relief, I didn't know what they are called. :-) I would love to find something that is very similar to Filco's cable because it would fit my acrylic case ;-) and of course Filco cases and hopefully PLU cases.
If you guys want detachable cable connection, then I don't know how fixate it to the Filco case.
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Yes, I mean cable glands and strain relief, I didn't know what they are called. :-) I would love to find something that is very similar to Filco's cable because it would fit my acrylic case ;-) and of course Filco cases and hopefully PLU cases.
If you guys want detachable cable connection, then I don't know how fixate it to the Filco case.
just use an extension i think i showed some off of ebay and you can have a part of the extension hanging out slightly and you could cable glands like a normal cable.
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I am going to put the pcb of a small powered USB hub in the case of my Phantom. This hub has 3 outgoing ports, the ingoing one and the power plug on one side and another 4 outgoing on the other side. These 4 will be inside off the Phantom case and I plan to connect the Teensy there, a tiny Bluetooth stick and 1 or 2 tiny USB sticks. The 3 ports on the outer side will offer a nice USB hub for everything else and a detachable cable for the Phantom...
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I would like something simple and sturdy. For example, I already have a USB to mini USB cable, one end to Teensy, one end to computer. I just want to clip something on to the cable and it is latched to the case so you can pull and hold the keyboard by the cable. Maybe something like this: http://www.wiring-ducts.com/flexible-strain-relief-bushing/
(http://www.wiring-ducts.com/Upfiles/allproduct/huxiantao/nai%20niu%20shi%20dian%20yuan%20xian%20kou-1.jpg)
But I haven't found where I can buy something like that.
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Ok the newest version on github is based on the schematic and should be testable.
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I would like something simple and sturdy. For example, I already have a USB to mini USB cable, one end to Teensy, one end to computer. I just want to clip something on to the cable and it is latched to the case so you can pull and hold the keyboard by the cable. Maybe something like this: http://www.wiring-ducts.com/flexible-strain-relief-bushing/
Show Image
(http://www.wiring-ducts.com/Upfiles/allproduct/huxiantao/nai%20niu%20shi%20dian%20yuan%20xian%20kou-1.jpg)
But I haven't found where I can buy something like that.
What about something like this? http://www.usbfirewire.com/Parts/rr-b2mb-12.html Except perhaps a smaller female. This way people can use any cable they want plus it will pack up a little neater.
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I found an even smaller USB hub PCB in my drawer. I think this could work beautifully in a phantom.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]37691[/ATTACH]
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Just tried the new firmware. Progress. The capslock LED comes on for a few seconds and then turns itself off. Still can't type anything. Do you have a Teensy on a breadboard to test with? Thanks.
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Just tried the new firmware. Progress. The capslock LED comes on for a few seconds and then turns itself off. Still can't type anything.
Sweet, I also added some debugging output. If you reset the board while running the hid listener from http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/hid_listen.html you should get something interesting.
Do you have a Teensy on a breadboard to test with? Thanks.
): No I don't have a teensy ATM. I am thinking about ordering one though for obvious reasons.
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with hid_listen running, this is the debug out I see:
Waiting for device:...............................................
Listening:
debug enabled.
jump to bootloader...
Device disconnected.
Waiting for new device:.....................
Listening:
debug enabled.
jump to bootloader...
Device disconnected.
Waiting for new device:..........
If Teensy Loader is running and is set to Auto mode, it would keep flashing the controller as if I pressed the reset button. So I think the firmware is actually resetting itself (crash?).
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with hid_listen running, this is the debug out I see:
If Teensy Loader is running and is set to Auto mode, it would keep flashing the controller as if I pressed the reset button. So I think the firmware is actually resetting itself (crash?).
I tried running in a simulator last night and got the same result the first time. It looks like the key count function it uses is always returning some big number. This causes the debug system to turn on [it uses #keys held down at the start to change the debug mode] And then it jumps to some weird debug related bootloader code that doesn't work and thus causes the reset.
Unfortunately I could only get it to run that one time and further runs crashed the simulator ): I'll have to wait till my teensy gets here. I plan to order one later today.
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sounds good. Once we all have a Phantom, we will have plenty of time to update the firmware. I think that is when the REAL fun begins. NKRO over USB with BIOS compatibility, multiple layers, media keys, programmable macros, reset with key combos without opening up the case to push the reset button on Teensy for easy flashing, re-program keymaps without loading new firmware like AIKON.
It is going to be fun!
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sounds good. Once we all have a Phantom, we will have plenty of time to update the firmware. I think that is when the REAL fun begins. NKRO over USB with BIOS compatibility, multiple layers, media keys, programmable macros, reset with key combos without opening up the case to push the reset button on Teensy for easy flashing, re-program keymaps without loading new firmware like AIKON.
It is going to be fun!
So if I get this firmware working we will have:
- NKRO over USB
- Multiple Layers
- Media keys
And possibly boot mode
The way I implemented layers should make it pretty easy to generate them with a script or something when hardcoded in firmware.
The macro and reprogrammable layout code will be pretty fun, and we have plenty of ram and EEPROM space.
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I'm not too worried about BIOS compatibility. If I ever need to fool around in there, I just dig up an old RD. I mean, I have to restart my computer to get into the BIOS anyway, so I might as well.
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We do it because we can, not because we should ;-) Otherwise, we would have stopped at 6KRO! LOL! Cherry and Costar stabilizer support on the same plate? Crazy talk!
Truth is the list is all the things I can think of to add to the firmware. I don't think we have a version of Teensy firmware that can do all that yet. We have plenty of time to change the firmware. We can do it one at a time. I actually do think BIOS compatibility is important. when you need to dig into the BIOS outside of the original setup, you are usually going in there to fix something. You would want to avoid additional frustration that you would incur if you see nothing change on screen when you pound on the keyboard.
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Check out the firmware being used on the DOX I think that has almost everything your looking for though I dont know how to modify it to work on the Phantom.
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Check out the firmware being used on the DOX I think that has almost everything your looking for though I dont know how to modify it to work on the Phantom.
Dox is based on TMK just like what I am working on, so any thing they did should be pretty transferable.
https://github.com/doxkb/tmk_keyboard is the code
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Teensy has 2 versions, one with pins soldered on already, and one without pins. Teensy without pins are cheaper. We can order it without pins if we can find and buy the pins separately. But I can't find them on digikey.com. Do you know what they are called? Thanks.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36883&d=1325756349)
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We can order it without pins if we can find and buy the pins separately. But I can't find them on digikey.com. Do you know what they are called?
Pin headers. Digikey seems to have them under two different categories:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/cat/connectors-interconnects/rectangular-headers-male-pins/1442547
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/cat/connectors-interconnects/board-to-board-headers-male-pin/1442672
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That's what I call clipped diode leads.
But yeah, you can also use pin headers (usually .100) if you want it to look all professional.
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I Love being in the Electronics Engineering Department. I just nick all the parts I want for free from labs. HELL YEAH!
But yes, I've used a ton of resistor/diode legs in my past to act as pins. Most commonly as pins on a breadboard XD
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Do most of you rather have Teensy without pins and you solder your own Teensy pins yourselves? We can do that.
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$3 more with pins.
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I think we should order the Teensys without pins. Prying the spacers off can be a quite frightening experience... Also, all the pins needed aren't there to start with anyhow.
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well you can order the pics from them as well ordering them s`eparatly is cheaper than already soldered.
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I think an easy way to solder the Teensy into place would be the following.
1. Put the phantom PCB flat on something heat resistant.
2. Put header pins with the longer part in holes, spacers high above the PCB. Make sure the pins are not protruding on the bottom.
3. Set the Teensy on top to keep good alignment.
4. Solder headers, remove Teensy, and cut header pins.
5. Solder Teensy onto header pins.
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PrinsValium's method is good. I would recommend using header pins instead of just diode legs. When I soldered the prototype, my Teensy has pins on already. The pins are much big in diameter then diode legs. So when I inserted the pins into the Phantom PCB, it was tight fit and just held the Teensy in place so it was very easy for me to solder it onto the PCB.
I did have to solder on 3 missing pins with diode legs. The diode legs are very thin. So when the solder is melted in the hole the legs act like a straw in a glass of drink, leaning to one side. To get it done, I had to use a pair of pliers to hold the leg, melt the solder, set the leg straight, and let the solder form again. Doing all 31 pins will take some time. And since the legs are thin, when you need to put the Teensy with diode legs onto the Phantom PCB, the Teensy will be loose, shifting its position. You will need some tools or 3 or 4 hands to keep the Teensy and PCB in place and solder them together.
There are so many header pins on digikey, I haven't found the correct one to use yet. :-(
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I think this (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/9-146282-0/A34253-40-ND/1125897) is what you're looking for. Bulk pack of 100x 40pin 2.54mm spacing single row terminal strip. $2.72
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Thanks alaricljs! Am I reading it right? standard packaging is 100, but each one (not each package) is $2.72 each for 1, $2.43 each for 10? If each one has 40 pins, it maybe better off to order Teensy with pins for $3 more.
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Ewww, gross... it is single piece pricing... $2.72ea I was soooo hoping. It's marginally cheaper on Mouser...
Needless to say, ebay is dirt cheap: 10 @ .19 each (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-40-Pin-2-54-mm-Single-Row-Pin-Header-Strip-PCB-/180744259331?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a15328703#ht_1993wt_802) or 200 @ .085 each (http://www.ebay.com/itm/200-pcs-40-Pin-2-54-mm-Single-Row-Pin-Header-Strip-PCB-/170717368786?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bf8c51d2#ht_1993wt_802)
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Beware getting parts from china using standard shipping, as it usually takes a month+ to get them (and they sometimes get lost). It's usually better to pay a bit more but actually get them within your lifetime. Here are some other options: 1 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/200x-40-pin-1-row-0-1-PCB-Male-Header-/330673548852?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item4cfdadee34) 2 (http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SHS-40/SINGLE-ROW-HEADER-1-X-40/1.html) 3 (http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/product=HEADERS+BREAKAWAY+.1SP+STR/exact_match=exact)
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This has not yet happened to me and I'm up over 15 orders from China. Worst case was during a holiday, took 2.5 weeks. Besides which, since the PCBs haven't even been ordered yet time shouldn't be that much of an issue.
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Also, they were harder to find than what I expected, but I dug up headers that are about the same length on both solder ends. That is, both ends are the short ends that don't need to be cut off. Expensive, though. http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=Rc1t4MMYWxujU32YlGfb%2Fw%3D%3D Ignore the picture and check the spec sheet comparing against the part number.
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I think i'd rather have some good sturdy legs available then be forced to scrounge for something that wont be as strong. The teensy has 31 pins so you could make it 1$ per 33 or so.
If you can get some with short legs on both side though that would be really nice.
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I think 40 pins is perfert. We can just pack it in with a teensy order. 200 is too much, price is still much cheaper than digikey. Let me see if there is a BIN auction with just 100 pieces from China. I have purchased from China vendors on ebay before, and have had good luck with them.
EDIT: Nope, I found 100 pieces auctions, but not cheaper than the 200 one from alaricljs. Maybe we will get 200. That's super cheap. Need to ask BiNiaRiS to order them. He is the US distributor, and then ship part of it to 7bit for EU folks.
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The 2 auctions I linked are the same guy... might ping him and ask for a 100pc lot.
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The 2 auctions I linked are the same guy... might ping him and ask for a 100pc lot.
Right! Didn't think of that. Will do. Thanks.
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Good news! WASDkeyboards can help us with Costar 2x stabilizers. I will still have to bend 30 7x stabilizers, but good that we have a source for 2x stabilizers, inserts, and clips.
Totally unrelated, but here is a picture of the Phantom prototype dressed in Cherry dye sub keycaps, plus Cherry RGB dye sub modifiers, plus Tarkoon's Blue Esc keycap and handbag capslock.
I have been just having the prototype sitting on the bottom half of a Filco case. The exposed white-colored plate makes it pleasant to look at. It is nice and free. Like surfing the web in your underwear! :-)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37992&d=1327015300)
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great to hear wanting it even more
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You need a red esc in there litster!
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It is coming... ;-)
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Ok. I put an order in. I know we have no source for mx greens, and I certainly haven't found one yet on my own, but I thought I would throw it in there just to express interest.
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Ok. I put an order in. I know we have no source for mx greens, and I certainly haven't found one yet on my own, but I thought I would throw it in there just to express interest.
There is going to be a groupbuy or you could do getto greens
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Ok. I put an order in. I know we have no source for mx greens, and I certainly haven't found one yet on my own, but I thought I would throw it in there just to express interest.
There is going to be a groupbuy or you could do getto greens
Even if you find it, it would be a lot much more affordable to go with the ghetto green mod instead
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Even if you find it, it would be a lot much more affordable to go with the ghetto green mod instead
How exactly does the ghetto green mod work again? Is it just a blue switch with a black spring?
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That is what I was considering (blue with black spring). I did see prices on grey switches, and yeah, if green is similar than it won't be worth it. But, as I said, consider it interest until we know for sure.
I also noticed that Cherry lists two types of grey switches. A linear 2.8oz (MX1A-2XXX), and a tactile 2.8 oz (MX1A-DXXX). But, I haven't seen those either so probably in the same boat with greens. The reason for the greens was an attempt at more of an alps-like feel. I've got some black switches in the mail, so I'll see what I can do.
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I ordered a bunch of the linear MX gray from mouser a while back (MX1A-21NW). I thought I should try them out on a keyboard, but they are way too heavy for me to put on an entire board... So I've got plenty of them to get rid of. Some I've pulled the stem and spring from already to combine PCB/plate mount switches as I've needed them. So I could reassemble both PCB and plate mount switches if anyone is interested. I paid $1.80 each and would only want to get that back.
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I've suddenly pursuaded myself to get one of these:
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHANSIWIN 1
DIODE 100
MXBROWN 100
MXCLEAR 2 --just cos i want to mess with some switches
MXBLACK 2
MXBLUE 2
MXRED 2
MXDARKBLUE 2
But just wondering about the stabilizers for like shift/enter/space...Can I order them, or do I have to get them myself? Also LEDs.
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the ONLY reason for buying an actual green switch is for the novelty of having the green stem under the key... for some, it's worth it.
Gotta catch them all... I would certainly want to have a few only to have them =)
It's also sort of like 0 ohm resistors, sorta stupid, why not use a jumper.. but it looks nice.
But just wondering about the stabilizers for like shift/enter/space...Can I order them, or do I have to get them myself? Also LEDs.
The intention is that there will be stabilizers included in the group buy. Probably some LEDs too, one or two colors perhaps. There are tons of different LEDs, and they are cheap enough for everyone to be bought with fitting resistors on their own. That way there are more options for the ones who like to customize.
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The intention is that there will be stabilizers included in the group buy. Probably some LEDs too, one or two colors perhaps. There are tons of different LEDs, and they are cheap enough for everyone to be bought with fitting resistors on their own. That way there are more options for the ones who like to customize.
So I'll wait till these are added to the list?
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Stabilizers are already there, I don't know for sure whether they are Cherry or Costar. WASDkeyboards.com is going to help us with stabilizers clips, inserts, and 2x and 6.25x stabilizer bars. For PHANSI and PHISO plates, I will bend 7x stabilizer bars for the group buy. I think I will need to bend over 30 of them, and then later mail them to BiNiaRiS and 7bit for final delivery!!!!
For LEDs and resistors, I am thinking to just order LEDs of 2 colors, and bunch of matching resistors, and just throw them in with each PCB order. I think we will have money to cover the parts since they are so cheap.
I really like the white LEDs because they are cool looking and unique for keyboards. Anyone want to pick out another color? Please post a link to digikey and mouser for the parts. The white LEDs I chose is 3.5v and paired with 75 ohm resistors.
I still need to lock down on the pricing.
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White is good maybe red and not too bright most leds on keyboards scorch my eyes.
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White is good maybe red and not too bright most leds on keyboards scorch my eyes.
PWM (http://flickr.com/gp/67486915@N03/8q1f56) for beginners.
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PWM (http://flickr.com/gp/67486915@N03/8q1f56) for beginners.
O yea forgot about the PWM that was implemented. Then, buy the brightest LED so that people who want to scorch their eyes really can and have a setting for people like me where its noticeable but not glaring right in your eye.
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Stabilizers are already there, I don't know for sure whether they are Cherry or Costar. WASDkeyboards.com is going to help us with stabilizers clips, inserts, and 2x and 6.25x stabilizer bars. For PHANSI and PHISO plates, I will bend 7x stabilizer bars for the group buy. I think I will need to bend over 30 of them, and then later mail them to BiNiaRiS and 7bit for final delivery!!!!
For LEDs and resistors, I am thinking to just order LEDs of 2 colors, and bunch of matching resistors, and just throw them in with each PCB order. I think we will have money to cover the parts since they are so cheap.
I really like the white LEDs because they are cool looking and unique for keyboards. Anyone want to pick out another color? Please post a link to digikey and mouser for the parts. The white LEDs I chose is 3.5v and paired with 75 ohm resistors.
I still need to lock down on the pricing.
Alright, thats cool. So should I expect a email back from the bot when I order?
I love purple, http://search.digikey.com/uk/en/products/UV3TZ-395-30/492-1319-ND/2407230. But I don't mind it being blue/red.
PWM (http://flickr.com/gp/67486915@N03/8q1f56) for beginners.
Let me explain it:
We turn the LED on and off really fast and control the length of how long it is 'on' and 'off'. Don't worry it doesn't damage it. We won't see it flashing on and off, since of the high frequency, but we'll see a change in brightness. The more often it is 'on', the brighter.
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:) Look what just arrived
[ATTACH=CONFIG]38084[/ATTACH]
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That's fast! It ships from Oregon. Where are you at? Look forward to testing your new firmware builds!
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I'm east coast. And yea I am setting up the in chip debug tools as we speak.
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Adapter to be able to use the stock Filco cable without modifying it. I never manage to solder wires neatly =P I made the miniUSB cable part too short, the gland on the Filco cable doesn't reach all the way to the hole in the case... The stump I used was too short to start with, so no loss really, I just need to cut a new one.
(http://i40.tinypic.com/30wqdtl.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/n5lj78.jpg)
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We would like to close this Phantom group buy by January 31st. Please get your orders in now. 7bit is updating the price list and will send new invoices to all buyers soon. Thanks.
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Will the controller come with a basic functional firmware? Or will we have to either build our own or wait for someone to write one?
Also, I see that 7bit layout is the only one with place for an extra key in the Shift row. Is that correct? If so, I assume that it allows to build a PT-BR (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/17/KB_Portuguese_Brazil.svg) layout (it's ISO (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/da/KB_United_Kingdom.svg) with an extra key next to the right Shift).
Still, it would be weird because 7bit layout it's weird by design (1.25 key not in the rightmost place! :tongue1:)
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If the shift row you want is just like the 7bit layout, then the PCB can support it, but we don't have a plate layout like that (extra keys on the shift row with normal PHANSIWIN front row. Maybe PrinsValium can create a special layout for you so you can cut your own plate.
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We would like to close this Phantom group buy by January 31st. Please get your orders in now. 7bit is updating the price list and will send new invoices to all buyers soon. Thanks.
Awesome to hear!
Any update on the acrylic casing group buy? Would they end approximately the same time?
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BTW, I have had over 1,600 clicks on my Phantom signature :-)
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If the shift row you want is just like the 7bit layout, then the PCB can support it, but we don't have a plate layout like that (extra keys on the shift row with normal PHANSIWIN front row. Maybe PrinsValium can create a special layout for you so you can cut your own plate.
PH7BIT doesn't do it?
PH7BIT | 1| 35|mount plate 7BIT
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PH7BIT doesn't do it?
PH7BIT | 1| 35|mount plate 7BIT
Sure, if you want your spacebar be broken into a few tiny ones.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32967&d=1322274450)
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Will the controller come with a basic functional firmware? Or will we have to either build our own or wait for someone to write one?
Didn't reply to this part. 6KRO firmware is already working, perfectly I must say. Flashing firmware onto Teensy is very easy. We will provide the firmware .hex files for all layouts. You just need to download the upload software that runs on Linux, Windows, and Mac and it takes no time to do it.
You all should get yourselves familiar with how to do it so you can flash your firmware when you receive your Phantom kit, and then later upgrade to NKRO over USB if/when it becomes available. If you use one of the soldering service providers, contact them about flashing firmware for you. If you are going to solder yourselves, I believe you won't need any help flashing firmware.
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Didn't reply to this part. 6KRO firmware is already working, perfectly I must say. Flashing firmware onto Teensy is very easy. We will provide the firmware .hex files for all layouts. You just need to download the upload software that runs on Linux, Windows, and Mac and it takes no time to do it.
You all should get yourselves familiar with how to do it so you can flash your firmware when you receive your Phantom kit, and then later upgrade to NKRO over USB if/when it becomes available. If you use one of the soldering service providers, contact them about flashing firmware for you. If you are going to solder yourselves, I believe you won't need any help flashing firmware.
Thanks.
I was interested in this because I have all the tools for soldering and I've implemented a firmware before (actually I'm electrical engineer), so building a Phantom should be no problem for me. But I guess I'll pass it for now (I didn't realize that about the spacebar with PH7BIT).
Trying to stick to my "natural" layout only complicates things. sigh
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We would like to close this Phantom group buy by January 31st. Please get your orders in now. 7bit is updating the price list and will send new invoices to all buyers soon. Thanks.
Snap, looks like I need to get off the fence and decide what I want.
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Welp, looks like I will be buying one of these, however I have one question before submitting my order. I have a Donor board with Cherry PCB mount stabilizers. Are these compatible with the phantom? If not is there some place I can just get the plate mounting clips, or should I just suck it up and order some costar stabilizers?
Edit: Did some reading, looks like pcb mount stabilizers are a no-go, and I can get cherry plate mount stabilizers from mouser. Depending on the updated price list I may just go with that.
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PCB-mount switches could be used, if you take the time to cut off the two little pins off of each switch's bottom case. If you do that, you will want to do a very good job and make sure the bottom is flush or the switch won't sit properly on the PCB.
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Will the controller come with a basic functional firmware? Or will we have to either build our own or wait for someone to write one?
Also, I see that 7bit layout is the only one with place for an extra key in the Shift row. Is that correct? If so, I assume that it allows to build a PT-BR (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/17/KB_Portuguese_Brazil.svg) layout (it's ISO (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/da/KB_United_Kingdom.svg) with an extra key next to the right Shift).
Still, it would be weird because 7bit layout it's weird by design (1.25 key not in the rightmost place! :tongue1:)
That's exactly what I asked for much earlier! An ISOWIN with split right shift... And I am still sure that there are more who would like that!
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That's exactly what I asked for much earlier! An ISOWIN with split right shift... And I am still sure that there are more who would like that!
I asked BiNiaRiS about that, let's see what he says.
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Will the controller come with a basic functional firmware? Or will we have to either build our own or wait for someone to write one?
Also, I see that 7bit layout is the only one with place for an extra key in the Shift row. Is that correct? If so, I assume that it allows to build a PT-BR (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/17/KB_Portuguese_Brazil.svg) layout (it's ISO (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/da/KB_United_Kingdom.svg) with an extra key next to the right Shift).
Still, it would be weird because 7bit layout it's weird by design (1.25 key not in the rightmost place! :tongue1:)
The reason for Shift being at their inner-most positions is that on ANSI-layouts you can hit shift at the same places. Left and right of them are the extra keys. My layout is not made for ISO layout which seems quite weird to me.
If you find a way to mount the stabilisers, you can fit a 7 units space bar to a 7BIT layout keyboard.
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what a neat project! wish I could get in on it, but con season approaches.
hope we'll see lots of cool keyboards when you guys get rolling~!
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Alright, I'm in!
TEENSY 1
PHANTOM 1
PHANSI 1
MXRED 90
DIODE 100
STAB200 4
STAB700 1
Hopefully my order was right, I pretty much cut and paste it from the front page. Now I just need to find the keycaps to actually put on the board.
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What's your fancy for keycaps?
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What's your fancy for keycaps?
I'd like to find a nice set of black on white doubleshots with beige modifiers. I'm camping out Ascaii's leftovers thread on DT (or wait for GB3). I'd also like to track down a 7x black space bar and 1.5 Control/Alt keys in white on black to complete my existing set (which has a bunch of 1.25x keys). I'll probably also order some custom keys via WASD to replace the unused Scroll Lock, Pause, etc.
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what is the projected delivery date for these (for the US)? i'd like to buy into the boards in particular, but if i'm going to build up a project around the board, i don't want to have to deal with a floating deadline like eg the key gbs
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what is the projected delivery date for these (for the US)? i'd like to buy into the boards in particular, but if i'm going to build up a project around the board, i don't want to have to deal with a floating deadline like eg the key gbs
If you're talking about R4 GB, that ones just a mess. This ones moving on properly.
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does that mean there's a projected delivery date? ;)
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Litster wants to close the GB Jan 31st. As for projected delivery that depends on everyone paying and a number of different vendors manufacturing and delivering product. Not the easiest thing to predict.
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does that mean there's a projected delivery date? ;)
Maybe not a projected delivery date. But its running into less issues/detours than R4 is.
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Litster wants to close the GB Jan 31st. As for projected delivery that depends on everyone paying and a number of different vendors manufacturing and delivering product. Not the easiest thing to predict.
alaricljs is correct. Any date I give you now other than the closing date is going to be wrong. We still have a few things to close out, but we are on the right track though.
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Everything we need to build this keyboard can be purchased from this group buy besides the Filco case and keycaps, correct?
Secondly, will the 7bit layout allow for those 5 buttons above the arrow keys (to make it a 3x5 block of keys)? If so the Filco case would need to be modified to fit, yeah? How hard was it to make your own case? Did it require any special equipment?
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yes, besides case and keycaps, you should be able to get everything you need in this group buy. every plate and PCB combination lets you create a 3x5 block on the right. You just need to figure out what to do with the case. If you already have a Filco case, you can just put the Phantom onto the bottom shell of the Filco case.
This cardboard case is pretty easy to make :D You just need some cardboards, a cutter, a ruler and an hour or two. LOL!!!
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33031&d=1322341205)
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Not sure if this was already suggested or not but what about a thinner aluminum case for this similar to the Vortex Pure?
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Not sure if this was already suggested or not but what about a thinner aluminum case for this similar to the Vortex Pure?
I think this would be an excellent suggestion for Vortex. The case they're making for the pure is generic to both the Poker and the Pure, and there would be a much larger market to produce a generic tenkeyless case for.
There's a steel TKL case interest check, but no final prototypes yet. Still hard to say if it will take off, but its worth keeping an eye on:
Interest-check-Metal-case-for-TKL-Filcos/page14 (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?22379-Interest-check-Metal-case-for-TKL-Filcos/page14)
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I tried to put on a marketing hat, and see what feature list I could come up with. Some of the features of Phantom are new since we started the project.
- Supports vintage Cherry double shot, laser, and dye sub keycaps
- 1.5x Ctrl and Alt vintage Cherry keycaps (PHANSI and PHISO plate options)
- With 1.5x modifiers, you can also use Cherry’s 7x spacebars
- Supports centered-stem and offset-stem Capslock (also from vintage Cherry Keyboards)
- Also support modern keyboard layout with 1.25x Ctrl and Alt modifiers (PHANSIWIN and PHISOWIN plate options)
- Supports both Costar and Cherry stabilizers
- Supports in-switch LED at Capslock and Scroll Lock locations, as well as Filco style LED locations between PrintScrn-ScrollLock-Break and Insert-Home-PageUp
- Plate design allows Cherry MX switch top removal without de-soldering the switch first
- Perfect for easy switch lubing, repair, or modding
- Excluding switches with in-switch LED
- Supports 5 extra keys between 6-pack and arrow keys (case modification required)
- Supports 6KRO over USB with current Teensy firmware
- potentially NKRO over USB in the future with new Teensy firmware
- All keys can be remapped via firmware source code changes (currently a recompile of source is required)
- LED brightness adjustable in firmware source code
- Fits inside Filco Tenkeyless cases
- PLU cases could also work
- Community support on Geekhack.org and Deskthority.net
Am I missing anything?
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Other potentials with the new firmware
- Multiple layouts via switching
- Fn style extra keys
- Media/power keys
- Virtual mouse!
Macros are something I am looking at. Some sort of key intercept framework to make it easier to add features. Also we have plenty of eeprom so it wouldn't be that hard to load the layouts from that instead of hard coding them.
As a side note, the only thing I think that would make this even cooler would be a more egro layout. Even just moving the top alpha keys so they are half offset from the next row down rather then 1/4 offset. Not for this group buy of course, but it would be cool if there was enough interest later for an ergo phantom
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as I need the special plate when I find someone to make it what thickness do I ask for again was it 1/16" ?
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Yes, 1/16 inch.
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If you're talking about R4 GB, that ones just a mess. This ones moving on properly.
What makes you thing I'm incapable of messing the this up too?
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What makes you thing I'm incapable of messing the this up too?
Its always possible:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murphy's_law
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A new invoice has been sent to your email address. You should be getting it very shortly if you haven't received it already. If you don't receive it later today, please check that you did include an email address in your order PM to PHANTOM. If you didn't, please PM PHANTOM with your email address in the message body. If you did include your email address in your order but don't receive your invoice later today, please let me know.
In the invoice, there is instruction to submit your snail mail mailing address for shipment. Please follow the instruction to submit your mailing address.
Please also double check your ordered items. Thanks.
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Got mine, will pm info when I get home :)
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So, in this latest mail, my request for MX Greens came back with a pretty reasonable figure (in euros). Does that mean a source was found?
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So, in this latest mail, my request for MX Greens came back with a pretty reasonable figure (in euros). Does that mean a source was found?
It all depends on 7bit's switch-Fu. Availability and pricing could still be changed. No news is good news for now.
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As I recently bought Filco and keycaps for it, I can't afford this Phantom, but I don't need a crystal ball to know that I will regret this in the future.
It is possible to make a keyboard with right ALT placed more in the center than ISO, with PH7BIT, isn't it?(narrower space).
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Added higher res picture of the front and back of PCB to the first post. It is shrunk down to 1/16 of its original size, but it is still pretty high res :-) It is pretty amazing to look at, in that it can support so many variations. Look at all the holes...
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=38568&d=1327538723)
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It looks like you put the extra function key special holes in after all! This means any stem could break and its an easy repair right?
[edit] are you sure you have enough holes around the right alt? :P
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It looks like you put the extra function key special holes in after all! This means any stem could break and its an easy repair right?
[edit] are you sure you have enough holes around the right alt? :P
The 4 holes on the PCB to allow for unclipping the top switch case for each switch wasn't necessary after all. See this youtube video on how to open up the switch with PrinsValium's Special Phantom Mounting Plate design(TM). The magic is all on the mounting plate. The holes on the PCB was the extra insurance.
[video=youtube;HysRQnJiupQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HysRQnJiupQ[/video]
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Are MXDARKBLUE switches available?
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Are MXDARKBLUE switches available?
I believe it was mystical and not available for order, and it has been removed from the price list.
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom
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Thanks litster.. Still chasing the dream. :)
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Get the 7BIT layout and never ever worry about stabilisers again!
The advantages:
- You don't have a rediculously large anachronistic space bar, just a modern 1.5 units space bar at the position of your choice!
haha. that's true and I have never thought about it.
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Will you provide this: adapter for Filco cable (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=496707&viewfull=1#post496707)?
It would be nice if you provide it so that we wouldn't need to buy the parts and build it on our own.
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Will you provide this: adapter for Filco cable (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23572-Phantom-Custom-Keyboard-Group-Buy-(Order-Only)&p=496707&viewfull=1#post496707)?
It would be nice if you provide it so that we wouldn't need to buy the parts and build it on our own.
Hi Furuya. Sorry, no plan to make this available at this time. Not sure how much demand it would have. If there is a lot of demand, and if the parts are easy to find on digikey (probably, as PrinsValium got his part from mouser I think) we could add that to our big order to digikey. I would also love to be able to find some place to buy a Filco-like cable.
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It would be really sweet if there are receptacles that fit the Molex/Filco plug, that is possible to just crimp onto a cable instead of the through hole solder ones I got. But there are 10000's different receptacles/plugs at mouser and I don't really know where to start looking... But those receptacles (http://www2.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=89401-0510virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-89401-0510) are from mouser, and the strip board (http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/BusBoard-Prototype-Systems/ST3U/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvJBlHRSOGUxHYmn%252bCGy5OpyeFTLS%252bcHp8%3d) is nothing fancy. The pitch on the strip board is 2.54mm and the receptacle is 2mm so a little bit of bending is required but it's not a lot with only five leads.
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It would be really sweet if there are receptacles that fit the Molex/Filco plug,
When I went through the JST catalog of matching parts the only receptacles were PCB mount. I expect the Molex version to have the same limitation. Here's the PDF (http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/ePH.pdf).
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Kits include the following:
1 PCB (includes 2 white LEDs and2 resistors)
1 Plate
1 Teensy (includes 1 40-pin pin header)
100 switches
100 diodes
4 2x stabilizers for ANSI or 3 2x stabilizers for ISO or 0 for PH7BIT
1 7x or 1 6.25x stabilizer set for spacebar or 0 for PH7BIT
Pricing will be the same as if you order them separately. Finally pricing is not completely locked yet. 7bit will adjust pricing in his script later when we finalize it.
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If someone experienced that he sent an order but got something totally different, please contact me!
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Does the Phantom fit Filco v1 cases, v2 cases or both? Not sure if there's a difference. Thanks.
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There's no difference in the cases between revs of Filco
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about how much is a total kit?
also i don't need anything extra if i order a kit right? (besides case and caps)
also is there someone who can/will do assembly in EU?
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According to the OP Half-Saint is in EU willing to do assembly. And the kit contains everything you need except caps and case, correct.
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I can do Assembly and ship to the EU contact me in my subforum or via pm if interested.
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I want to buy but I'm still trying to figure out how fancy I want to go. The 7bit layout seems like a good idea but is it too extreme? Is anyone else going to use this layout and have their own ideas on how they're going to layout their keys other than the example in the wiki?
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I want to buy but I'm still trying to figure out how fancy I want to go. The 7bit layout seems like a good idea but is it too extreme? Is anyone else going to use this layout and have their own ideas on how they're going to layout their keys other than the example in the wiki?
I have a layout that took me a bit to work out take a look at the thread in my subforum.
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I'm going to be using a Ansi layout, but use the "7bit" right side.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]38774[/ATTACH]
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Great idea to have the media keys there!!!
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Here is picture of the backside of the PCB, with interesting areas highlighted. I also highlighted diode locations that are no the same as the majority ones. Need to make sure your diodes are at the right polarity. Check it out.
Bandwidth warning! Giant 2MB picture!
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=38799&d=1327703322)
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At least one of my extra 7bit keys will be middle mouse button, so I can paste-click under Linux without touching the mouse.
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Here is picture of the backside of the PCB, with interesting areas highlighted. I also highlighted diode locations that are no the same as the majority ones. Need to make sure your diodes are at the right polarity. Check it out.
Bandwidth warning! Giant 2MB picture!
Oh hmm... There are two LED_A and LED_B. Are they in parallel?
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love the layout hazeluff, but I'm waiting for litster's acrylic case so gotta stick with 1.5x WIN version
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love the layout hazeluff, but I'm waiting for litster's acrylic case so gotta stick with 1.5x WIN version
I Love those cases too. The look so beautiful. But it's a bit expensive for a case to me. Also I like my number pad. The only reason I went for the phantom board was cos you could do 7Bit layout. I may get one of his cases for the hell of it if it weren't over say $50-60.
Or
I may DYI my own one.
Or
I may check out some Acrylic crafters back in Hong Kong. I'm pretty sure they can slap me together something similar for a good price. My mom had a store for a while and had Acrylic display shelves and they were pretty nice. So I'll see.
Or
Cardboard case!
Just one thing I wanna ask, It doens't have to be 1.5x Win does it to work with litsters case, does it? It should fit any as long as you dont have those 5 keys above the arrows?
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At least one of my extra 7bit keys will be middle mouse button, so I can paste-click under Linux without touching the mouse.
Paste-click? Does Ctrl-V not work in Linux?
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love the layout hazeluff, but I'm waiting for litster's acrylic case so gotta stick with 1.5x WIN version
1.5x WIN version? PHANSI uses 1.5x modifiers. PHANSIWIN uses 1.25x modifiers. Terminologies overloaded. :-)
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Just one thing I wanna ask, It doens't have to be 1.5x Win does it to work with litsters case, does it? It should fit any as long as you dont have those 5 keys above the arrows?
Right. It is just a rectangular cut out for the main cluster. What's on the front row doesn't matter as long as you have switches and keycaps to fill up the whole row.
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1.5x WIN version? PHANSI uses 1.5x modifiers. PHANSIWIN uses 1.25x modifiers. Terminologies overloaded. :-)
The old terminology was easier haha whenever I see PHANSIWIN I think 1.5x WIN, but yes I meant the PHANSI version
Can I technically get the PH7BIT but make the PHANSI layout and just keep all the other spots switchless?
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The old terminology was easier haha whenever I see PHANSIWIN I think 1.5x WIN, but yes I meant the PHANSI version
Can I technically get the PH7BIT but make the PHANSI layout and just keep all the other spots switchless?
I don't see why not.
But the one the thing I've wondered is, is it still possible to put in a long spacebar like the one for PHANSI.
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What I'm wondering is if the bottom row of the 7bit plate is compatible (or near-compatible) with any other layouts. Could I fit a standard 1.25x-modifier bottom row on a 7bit Phantom?
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What I'm wondering is if the bottom row of the 7bit plate is compatible (or near-compatible) with any other layouts. Could I fit a standard 1.25x-modifier bottom row on a 7bit Phantom?
TheProfosist is doing that.
You can but it'll leave a small gap right at the ends of the row.
Also 1000!
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What I'm wondering is if the bottom row of the 7bit plate is compatible (or near-compatible) with any other layouts. Could I fit a standard 1.25x-modifier bottom row on a 7bit Phantom?
I think they fit 1.5x and not 1.25x from looking at the image
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@litster, any chance you can take a high def picture of a single switch mounted in that plate? I wonder if there is any visible gap near the switch what leaves the pcb exposed.
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Oh I want to ask you for some feedback on my layout.
I have that Fn key on the bottom Mod row. But I don't really need it since I'll be using numlock to swap between the layers of my "numpad".
What should I replace it with (image and function)?
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@litster, any chance you can take a high def picture of a single switch mounted in that plate? I wonder if there is any visible gap near the switch what leaves the pcb exposed.
I can take a picture. I have a yet-to-be-mounted PH7BIT plate. But I am not sure if I understand what you want me to shoot. Can you give me more description?
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Paste-click? Does Ctrl-V not work in Linux?
Yeah, it does. Paste-click is different though. When you highlight text, it is copied into a buffer separate from the Ctrl-C/Ctrl-V buffer. You paste this buffer by middle-clicking.
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Yeah, it does. Paste-click is different though. When you highlight text, it is copied into a buffer separate from the Ctrl-C/Ctrl-V buffer. You paste this buffer by middle-clicking.
Cool, 2 clipboards! I could use something like that.
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Yup, it's super useful to be able to highlight, click, highlight, click. Sometimes you have to take your hand off the mouse before you click though. Thus the dedicated button on the keyboard.
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I can take a picture. I have a yet-to-be-mounted PH7BIT plate. But I am not sure if I understand what you want me to shoot. Can you give me more description?
I meant a picture of a switch mounted into the plate, but without the keycap. I want to see the area near the switch casing, to get a closer peak on the modified plate.
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Yup, it's super useful to be able to highlight, click, highlight, click. Sometimes you have to take your hand off the mouse before you click though. Thus the dedicated button on the keyboard.
Even better if you have a properly configured terminal or whatever piece of software you are using is setup to behave like an xterm... Left click to begin the highlight and drag or not. Double left to highlight a word, triple to highlight a line. Right click to extend the highlight to where the mouse pointer is. Middle click to paste that buffer.
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I meant a picture of a switch mounted into the plate, but without the keycap. I want to see the area near the switch casing, to get a closer peak on the modified plate.
This one is not a close up, but might help for now until I take a better one for you. From the top down?
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/a/a0/PhantomPlateWithBrown.jpg)
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litster can you share your knowledge on this
Can I technically get the PH7BIT but make the PHANSI layout and just keep all the other spots switchless? I think the main key I don't know if it would fit is the space bar
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might have a problem mounting the stabilizers since there won't be any cut out for them with the 7bit plate
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might have a problem mounting the stabilizers since there won't be any cut out for them with the 7bit plate
Ah yes, so simple didn't even think about that
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What you want to do is possible as long as there are holes on the PCB for where you want to put the switches *AND* there is a matching plate for it. The problem is we really can't support one-off plate designs in a group buy like this. On the other hand, if there is enough demand for 10 or so copies of the same design, maybe we can get one added before we close the group buy on Tuesday. If we don't have enough demand, maybe we can figure something out after this group buy is done.
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When will you guys collect the money?
/PS: Could it be possible to ship to Vietnam?
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What you want to do is possible as long as there are holes on the PCB for where you want to put the switches *AND* there is a matching plate for it. The problem is we really can't support one-off plate designs in a group buy like this. On the other hand, if there is enough demand for 10 or so copies of the same design, maybe we can get one added before we close the group buy on Tuesday. If we don't have enough demand, maybe we can figure something out after this group buy is done.
Nah don't worry I was just liking hazeluff's layout and kinda wanted the PH7BIT but I don't know how much I would like it and in case I don't I can fall back on the PHANSI layout
Unless of course all the other PHANSI people want it too, but it is kinda late to make changes since the GB closes in 3 days and this would just confuse things
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After we close on Tuesday, we will count how much we many of each component we need to order, send out final invoice, and then we will start collecting money. When we say close, we do need to close the group buy so we can lock in all the numbers in our order spreadsheet. Hopefully one week after we close we can start collecting money.
I personally have not shipped anything to Vietnam before. Do you know how simple or complicated it is to ship from US to Vietnam? Either 7bit (in Germany) or BiNiaRiS (in the USA) will be shipping to Asia.
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Even better if you have a properly configured terminal or whatever piece of software you are using is setup to behave like an xterm... Left click to begin the highlight and drag or not. Double left to highlight a word, triple to highlight a line. Right click to extend the highlight to where the mouse pointer is. Middle click to paste that buffer.
Yup. I sorely miss the cut buffer when I'm on Windows (that and window focus following the mouse cursor).
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Oh hmm... There are two LED_A and LED_B. Are they in parallel?
Yes, they are completely in parallel (but attached to the same pin on the controller). Every LED would have it's own resistor in series. The listed absolute maximum current per IO pin is 40mA though.
Edit: Sorry, It's only the LEDA channel that have separate resistors for the two LEDs on it.
Edit: LEDA damnit, the LEDA channel has separate resistors =P
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...
I personally have not shipped anything to Vietnam before. Do you know how simple or complicated it is to ship from US to Vietnam? ...
No problem to ship to Vietnam. War is over since 37 years.
Yup. I sorely miss the cut buffer when I'm on Windows (that and window focus following the mouse cursor).
Me too!
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I think they fit 1.5x and not 1.25x from looking at the image
1.5 and 1 units.
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This one is not a close up, but might help for now until I take a better one for you. From the top down?
Show Image
(http://deskthority.net/w/images/a/a0/PhantomPlateWithBrown.jpg)
It's helpful picture as I can clearly see those small cut-out gaps on the plate around the switches. It is especially visible on the right side of the Esc switch. Could you make a closer picture of that area?
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Nah don't worry I was just liking hazeluff's layout and kinda wanted the PH7BIT but I don't know how much I would like it and in case I don't I can fall back on the PHANSI layout
Unless of course all the other PHANSI people want it too, but it is kinda late to make changes since the GB closes in 3 days and this would just confuse things
I'm ordering a PHANSI plate. But if you look on it, it still has the holes on the right side to add those extra switches. You can always remove the switches if you don't like the layout.
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I'm going to be using a Ansi layout, but use the "7bit" right side.
(Attachment) 38774[/ATTACH]
I also dream about that layout, but with ANSI winkeyless, 1.5x r4 units. The right side is amazing!
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I also dream about that layout, but with ANSI winkeyless, 1.5x r4 units. The right side is amazing!
If you are getting one and need one drawn up for WASD to make, just let me know ; p.
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That's also near to what I plan - just some functions on different keys...
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I'm ordering a PHANSI plate. But if you look on it, it still has the holes on the right side to add those extra switches. You can always remove the switches if you don't like the layout.
Yes! This solves everything, sticking with my PHANSI plate then :P
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Yes! This solves everything, sticking with my PHANSI plate then :P
Glad we've sorted everything out. xD
I personally thought of the 7BIT plate, cos I wanted the shift to be broken into more keys, but I've noticed I don't need them. I don't even need Fn...What to do with it...Maybe should program it to BM people when I play starcraft.
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Glad we've sorted everything out. xD
I personally thought of the 7BIT plate, cos I wanted the shift to be broken into more keys, but I've noticed I don't need them. I don't even need Fn...What to do with it...Maybe should program it to BM people when I play starcraft.
Yeah I only need Fn keys for a second layer on compact keyboards
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I'm going to be using a Ansi layout, but use the "7bit" right side.
(Attachment) 38774[/ATTACH]
Wow, I didn't know you could modify the layout as well (and even add and remove keys) with WASD custom keysets! Makes me want to buy something from them.
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can we get a list of what stabilizers are needed for each plate type? i'm going to be ordering a mish mash of parts and want to make sure i have a sufficient number and kind of stabilizers
thanks dudes! ps, keep the pics coming!
pps, is there any way to get some version of the design files so that i can start playing with case designs in sketchup?
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If you are getting one and need one drawn up for WASD to make, just let me know ; p.
Sure! Thanks, hazeluff! <3
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can we get a list of what stabilizers are needed for each plate type? i'm going to be ordering a mish mash of parts and want to make sure i have a sufficient number and kind of stabilizers
PHANSI: 4 2x stabilizers, 1 7x stabilizer
PHANSIWIN: 4 2x stabilizers, 1 6.25x stabilizers
PHISO: 3 2x stabilizers, 1 7x stabilizer
PHISOWIN: 3 2x stabilizers, 1 6.25x stabilizers
PH7BIT: none
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thanks!
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is MXGREY light grey or dark? (ie, linear or tactile)?, and what the heck is CASE?
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PHANSI: 4 2x stabilizers, 1 7x stabilizer
PHANSIWIN: 4 2x stabilizers, 1 6.25x stabilizers
PHISO: 3 2x stabilizers, 1 7x stabilizer
PHISOWIN: 3 2x stabilizers, 1 6.25x stabilizers
PH7BIT: none
Are the boards coming with stabilizers, or will I have to go grab my own?
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Are the boards coming with stabilizers, or will I have to go grab my own?
You have to order your own from the groupbuy unless you ordered a kit.
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I am dreading that I need to make so many 7x stabilizer bars......
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Good thing i realized. Didn't order any stablilizers before...
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tentative order submitted. will jiggle around after i see how things shake out (should i go for grey 39 springs? HMMMMM)
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I am dreading that I need to make so many 7x stabilizer bars......
Should I increase the price?
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might have a problem mounting the stabilizers since there won't be any cut out for them with the 7bit plate
You can probably just put switches to hold it in, and take the springs out (unless you like heavy spacebars, that is). It'd be like an expensive cherry stabilizer, I think.
I think I'll Put my spacebar where I like it (on the 7bit layout) and leave (most of) the rest of that row empty (I mean, I'll still have CTRL and ALT).
Hazeluff: I have almost the same idea for my right side. It'll be awesome! The way I see it, on "normal" setting, it'll be arrows, insert, etc. but once numlock is toggled, I can use it like a basic tenkey. I think I'll put the extra function key up at the top(since I'll have extra room), after all the F1-F12 keys are.
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Should I increase the price?
The meterial is cheap. But it would take a lot of time to make them. Let me see how much time it would take me to make one. I am thinking about how to optimize the job. Maybe I need to precut the wires to the right length and them bend them. The ends are easy. The hump... the hump...
You can probably just put switches to hold it in, and take the springs out (unless you like heavy spacebars, that is). It'd be like an expensive cherry stabilizer, I think.
I think I'll Put my spacebar where I like it (on the 7bit layout) and leave (most of) the rest of that row empty (I mean, I'll still have CTRL and ALT).
I don't think it is going to work well. The reason a stabilizer bar is needed is because when you press down a long key on one end, the bar pulls the the other end down at the same time. Without it, the end you push down will go down, but the other end will not.
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Use quantum entanglement, so that when one switch on one side goes down, the one on the other side does too. = D
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I know the price in the OP isn't final but how close is it? +/- % wise, I am really tempted to get a 2nd one that's why since this is likely a one time deal until PHANTOM 2 :P
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The prices are very close, and should stay as is unless we are flooded with a bunch more orders before Tuesday, or a lot of you pull out (please don't! :-)).
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I don't need this keyboard, stop making me want to buy one.
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The meterial is cheap. But it would take a lot of time to make them. Let me see how much time it would take me to make one. I am thinking about how to optimize the job. Maybe I need to precut the wires to the right length and them bend them. The ends are easy. The hump... the hump...
I don't think it is going to work well. The reason a stabilizer bar is needed is because when you press down a long key on one end, the bar pulls the the other end down at the same time. Without it, the end you push down will go down, but the other end will not.
When I was looking for a space bar for my Tipro, I've tried out some keys. The largest key which you can hit on one edge without any trouble is 1.5 units wide.
If you have 2 switches and remove one spring, 2.25 units should be OK. But you should remove the spring where you least likely touch the key. I'm quite sure it is not working well with a 4 units spacebar, or even larger. The other option is to leave the springs in (reds or whatever is lightest) but this will still have its limitation and I doubt it will work with 7 units if you don't hit it in the center.
If I where you I'd go with 7BIT layout and a 1.5 units space bar (or 2 if you need it on different sides) and forget about stabilisers for the rest of your life (except when typing on nostalgic keyboards like NoPoo, Poker or Leopold).
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7bit is such a stabilizer hater :laser:
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To all people doing a layout like hazeluff your going to need a physical toggle key to make that work otherwise your going to have to hold the key down when ever you want to use that layer and if you want the numbers from the numberpad your also going to need a numlock key from my under standing from working on the DOX.
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To all people doing a layout like hazeluff your going to need a physical toggle key to make that work otherwise your going to have to hold the key down when ever you want to use that layer and if you want the numbers from the numberpad your also going to need a numlock key from my under standing from working on the DOX.
I'm pretty sure you can just write firmware to toggle the layers.
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I'm pretty sure you can just write firmware to toggle the layers.
From my understanding from DOX and hazu thats not currently the case http://tinyurl.com/84anbbt
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I'm pretty sure you can just write firmware to toggle the layers.
From my understanding from DOX and hazu thats not currently the case http://tinyurl.com/84anbbt
You can set that up is the Access-is firmware, so why not? When you select a modifer, you have to pick if it's momentary or toggle. I thought you could do either when I read through the sample documentation for keyboards on pjrc's website. I will recheck this.
From Hasu's comment, it looks like it's not possible with his custom firmware, but it should be possible "in general", as he said it's on his "todo" list.
Finally, I plan to use one of those fancy toggle switches for this, so I should be good either way.
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Yeah, It won't be a huge problem with me. I know my way around code and software.
I've also decided that my useless function key will be my game mode toggle switch. It will disable windows key. = D. Also made a nice SNES controller for the artwork of it.
Think I want to have 3 LEDs for Layerlock + WinDisable + Capslock, , but the only way round it at them moment would be to like cut off the paths for one of the LED slots and just use the holes to mount LEDs and fly some wires over to the controller...if there are unused pins.
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If it doesn't lock down I can live with my left window key being a Fn key so I can access the tenkeypad with the right hand
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If it doesn't lock down I can live with my left window key being a Fn key so I can access the tenkeypad with the right hand
Should be possible.
Just thinking about the numlock on keyboards. I believe that it's a signal transmitted to the keyboard. Since If i plug a 2nd keyboard in it knows whether certain locks are done. Does anyone know?
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If there are unused pins.
I don't think there are any usable pins left on the Teensy. The actual microcontroller, ATmega32U4, is listed as 26 IO-pins (I think) but pjrc says the Teensy only has 25, and they are all used.
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I don't think there are any usable pins left on the Teensy. The actual microcontroller, ATmega32U4, is listed as 26 IO-pins (I think) but pjrc says the Teensy only has 25, and they are all used.
Bummer, maybe should use my electronics saviness to have 2 LEDs work on one pin @_@. Or just give up one of the lights.
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I can't decide now if I want my 2nd phantom to be PHANSI or PHANSIWIN
Stupid hazeluff making a awesome layout and now I need to buy 2 of these ;<
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Bummer, maybe should use my electronics saviness to have 2 LEDs work on one pin @_@. Or just give up one of the lights.
Only if you want both to be on at the same time. If you want to control both LED's independently from one pin, you'd have to use it to send some sort of digital signal to a decoder chip, which would turn the proper LED on or off. In short: It's possible, but not without extra circuitry.
Hmm, how much is a phantom, maybe I'll get two.... No! I must save up for the ergodox!
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if only teensy had at least one free interface (I2C or SPI)... we could do lots of things with it using that idea (comunicate to extra circuitry to do many things!)
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Only if you want both to be on at the same time. If you want to control both LED's independently from one pin, you'd have to use it to send some sort of digital signal to a decoder chip, which would turn the proper LED on or off. In short: It's possible, but not without extra circuitry.
Hmm, how much is a phantom, maybe I'll get two.... No! I must save up for the ergodox!
My phantom turned out to be like ~$130 for all the bits I think (on my order email).
Hmm I can do 4 LEDs if I use the 2 LED pins and run them into a DeMultiplexer and by changing changing the values really fast (kind of like how we use PWM to control brightness)...
if only teensy had at least one free interface (I2C or SPI)... we could do lots of things with it using that idea (comunicate to extra circuitry to do many things!)
you can do I2C and SPI but you'd need to write out how that interface works yourself. There may also be libraries around.
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Well im still looking for someone to translate my layout into firmware as im not great in that area. Some queues should be able to be taken from hazu's firmware.
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Well im still looking for someone to translate my layout into firmware as im not great in that area. Some queues should be able to be taken from hazu's firmware.
I could for you, but I would rather have my teensy and be able to debug on hardware.
I've had a look at it and I get the jists of it, but I would like to have like something solid to explain what everything is and what the protocols are.
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I could for you, but I would rather have my teensy and be able to debug on hardware.
I've had a look at it and I get the jists of it, but I would like to have like something solid to explain what everything is and what the protocols are.
DOX, hazu, and ishotob should know something i knowishtob said he could modify hazu's firmware for the DOX to my DOX layout which would be similar what would be different would be applying it to the Phantom PCB so the backend would point to different locations I believe.
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DOX, hazu, and ishotob should know something i knowishtob said he could modify hazu's firmware for the DOX to my DOX layout which would be similar what would be different would be applying it to the Phantom PCB so the backend would point to different locations I believe.
I just spent the last 10-20 minutes reading over the Firmware code. I get it 100%. = D Should be able to change it quite easily. Has someone written up firmware yet for a Phantom?
Also what's this about an emulator, if someone could just quickly share that to me, I could mess around and maybe write up a template for all (If it hasn't been).
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I'm also planning to do custom firmware stuff. I'll be happy to help others out with questions, or possibly even coding requests, in the future.
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Phantom firmware source code.
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Phantom firmware source code.
Thanks much!
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Only 3 days left!!!!
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Only 3 days left!!!!
Yes, and we still need more orders!!!!
TEENSY | 1| 18|Teensy controller
PHANTOM | 1| 35|Phantom PCB
PHANSI | 1| 15|mount plate ANSI
PHANSIWIN | 1| 15|mount plate ANSI with WIN keys
PHISO | 1| 15|mount plate ISO
PHISOWIN | 1| 15|mount plate ISO with WIN keys
PH7BIT | 1| 15|mount plate 7BIT
MXRED | 1| 0.6|MX red plate mount switch (0.45 EUR)
MXBLUE | 1| 0.8|MX blue plate mount switch (0.6 EUR)
MXBROWN | 1| 0.6|MX brown plate mount switch (0.45 EUR)
MXCLEAR | 1| 0.6|MX clear plate mount switch (0.45 EUR)
MXBLACK | 1| 0.8|MX black plate mount switch (0.6 EUR)
MXGREEN | 1| 0.8|MX green plate mount switch (0.6 EUR)
MXGREY | 1| 0.8|MX grey plate mount switch (0.6 EUR)
MXDARKGREY | 1| 1 |MX grey plate mount switch (0.8 EUR)
DIODE | 1| 0.01|n-key rollover diode
RESISTOR | 2| 0.1|Resistor
STAB200 | 1| 2.5|Costar 2 units stabiliser
STAB625 | 1| 2.75|Costar 6.25 units stabiliser
STAB700 | 1| 3|Costar 7 units stabiliser
PHANTOMFUN | 1| 2|Phantom function key
PHANTOMMOD100 | 1| 2|Phantom 1 unit modifier key
PHANTOMMOD125 | 1| 2|Phantom 1.25 units modifier key
PHANSIREDKIT | 1| 142|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX red with stabs
PHANSICLEARKIT | 1| 142|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX clear with stabs
PHANSIBLACKKIT | 1| 162|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX black with stabs
PHANSIBLUEKIT | 1| 162|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX blue with stabs
PHANSIBROWNKIT | 1| 142|Teensy/PCB/ANSI plate/MX brown with stabs
PHISOREDKIT | 1| 140|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX red with stabs
PHISOCLEARKIT | 1| 140|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX clear with stabs
PHISOBLACKKIT | 1| 160|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX black with stabs
PHISOBLUEKIT | 1| 160|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX blue with stabs
PHISOBROWNKIT | 1| 140|Teensy/PCB/ISO plate/MX brown with stabs
PHANSIWINREDKIT | 1| 140|Teensy/PCB/ANSI Win plate/MX red with stabs
PHANSIWINCLEARKIT| 1| 140|Teensy/PCB/ANSI Win plate/MX clear with stabs
PHANSIWINBLACKKIT| 1| 160|Teensy/PCB/ANSI Win plate/MX black with stabs
PHANSIWINBLUEKIT | 1| 160|Teensy/PCB/ANSI Win plate/MX blue with stabs
PHANSIWINBROWNKIT| 1| 140|Teensy/PCB/ANSI Win plate/MX brown with stabs
PHISOWINREDKIT | 1| 140|Teensy/PCB/ISO Win plate/MX red with stabs
PHISOWINCLEARKIT | 1| 140|Teensy/PCB/ISO Win plate/MX clear with stabs
PHISOWINBLACKKIT | 1| 160|Teensy/PCB/ISO Win plate/MX black with stabs
PHISOWINBLUEKIT | 1| 160|Teensy/PCB/ISO Win plate/MX blue with stabs
PHISOWINBROWNKIT | 1| 140|Teensy/PCB/ISO Win plate/MX brown with stabs
PHANTOM.........74
TEENSY..........79
PH7BIT..........11
PHANSI..........27
PHANSIWIN.......17
PHISO............5
PHISOWIN.........7
DIODE.........7230
MXBLACK........280
MXBLUE.........794
MXBROWN.......1428
MXCLEAR.......4045
MXGREEN........329
MXGREY.........417
MXRED.........3186
RESISTOR........21
STAB200........221
STAB625.........23
STAB700.........43
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4000 MX Clear? What the ... ?
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stupid question... what are the resistors for? it is too long and I am too lazy to read every thread...
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maybe its for the leds to make them less bright, not sure.
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Resistors are needed for most LEDs. There are LEDs with internal resistors, but the range of colors and other properties is not as great as with general LEDs. The resistance needed is dependent of the specific LED. So there is really no reason to get resistors. LEDs and fitting resistors will be included in the kits. If you want to use other LEDs, you will be best of buying your own resistors anyhow. Resistors+LEDs would perhaps have been a more appropriate item. I donn't really know the reason they were put on the item list to start with, perhaps litster can explain =)
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Always wondered about the resistors, so I throw them out.
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A few last minute questions:
Do we have to source our own LEDs now? I don't see them on the order list anymore. What if we're having alaricljs or someone do the soldering?
If we want our stuff shipped to someone for the soldering service, is there a way that we should indicate that in our orders? I noticed that "SOLDERING" is no longer an order option.
litster, will those acrylic cases be available for the 7bit layout? How about ANSI-Win with the combined arrow-home cluster setup?
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stupid question... what are the resistors for? it is too long and I am too lazy to read every thread...
The correct answer is, so the LED doesn't burn out.
The LED usually work at a voltage lower than the power supply, thus we need the resistor to drop the voltage.
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I think litster decided there will be 2 white LEDs and matching resistors included in the sets. Those 4 components could possibly replace the resistor item. That is replace RESISTOR with LEDKIT. But that isn't really up to me to decide.
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A few last minute questions:
Do we have to source our own LEDs now? I don't see them on the order list anymore. What if we're having alaricljs or someone do the soldering?
If we want our stuff shipped to someone for the soldering service, is there a way that we should indicate that in our orders? I noticed that "SOLDERING" is no longer an order option.
litster, will those acrylic cases be available for the 7bit layout? How about ANSI-Win with the combined arrow-home cluster setup?
I don't think litster planned on doing a 7bit layout case. But so far there's you, tsangan and me who are interested in it. Maybe if we get enough people it can be part of the GB for cases.
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you can do I2C and SPI
How if there are no pins availabe?
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Hmm.... Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm a little tempted to do the soldering for this myself. I have absolutely no experience with soldering and I'd have to buy the soldering iron and whatnot, which would be more expensive than having someone do the soldering for me, but I feel like it would be a good/painful bonding experience for me and my Phantom.
Is there anything in particular I should be aware of when planning this? I shouldn't need to pick up a second PCB in case of supremely screwing up the soldering, should I?
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How if there are no pins availabe?
Oh well you're screwed. I didn't speicifically thought of how many pins there are, I just meant that you could do it with the teensy.
Tho you can still do stuff with the two LED pins. Might not be I2C/SPI.
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Oh well you're screwed. I didn't speicifically thought of how many pins there are, I just meant that you could do it with the teensy.
Tho you can still do stuff with the two LED pins. Might not be I2C/SPI.
But that's the point I'm saying, with Teensy+Phantom you can't (no pins available)!
Yes some stuff can be done with the two LED pins but just simple or not too complex stuff.
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But that's the point I'm saying, with Teensy+Phantom you can't (no pins available)!
Yes some stuff can be done with the two LED pins but just simple or not too complex stuff.
You'll need some external parts. But like simply we could use a Demux that's like having 4 pins instead of 2. Or if you get something that does timing/FSM, you can get a variety of functions.
I have no experience with I2C and SPI, but I had a look at I2C and it's a 2 wire bus. So if you make the teensy the master and have some externals for slaves, you can give up the LED pins and implement the LEDs on the slaves?
We can actually implement anything we wanted from 1 or 2 pins by using time as a dimension. Say we needed 4 pins "0110". We just use one pin and output "0" -> "1" -> "1" -> "0" and have another circuit interpret it. But I'm just speculating theory. Its probably not worth the time.
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Oh right, I2C only two pins! Completely forgot about that. So all we need is take some I2C implementation (unless you're willing to implement by yourself) and an extra circuitry then we can do almost anything!
Yeah, it's possible but it would take a lot of work (that's why I was willing to use well known serial protocols).
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Hmm.... Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm a little tempted to do the soldering for this myself. I have absolutely no experience with soldering and I'd have to buy the soldering iron and whatnot, which would be more expensive than having someone do the soldering for me, but I feel like it would be a good/painful bonding experience for me and my Phantom.
Is there anything in particular I should be aware of when planning this? I shouldn't need to pick up a second PCB in case of supremely screwing up the soldering, should I?
There are some really cheap soldering irons (no temp display, cheap stand).
As for screwing up, If you're really worried, go buy a veraboard (its like a PCB with tons of holes and copper strips across it) and you can just try soldering wires/resistors to it. Its not hard so a bit of practice to familiarize will be all the learning you need.
Oh right, I2C only two pins! Completely forgot about that. So all we need is take some I2C implementation (unless you're willing to implement by yourself) and an extra circuitry then we can do almost anything!
Yeah, it's possible but it would take a lot of work (that's why I was willing to use well known serial protocols).
The protocol seems quite simple. But how much do people need to implement?
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The problem is how to validate your implementation. For us who fortunately have easy access to oscilloscopes it's easy to do, but why bother when there's plenty of implementations out there? Still, in order to validate those I think the only way is to verify the output signals in a osciloscope.
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it seems like the problem is actually fitting more stuff on the board. the board layout is final at this point, so you could need to jam this stuff in on a daughterboard or free-floating
i suspect it would be wiser to just use a teensy++ on rev.2 of the board.
the firmware is pretty straightforward, btw.
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Wow! So many replies since I went to bed!
LEDs: Each PCB order will come with 2 LEDs and 2 resistors, no need to order separately unless you don't like white LEDs. If you don't like white LEDs, you are getting it anyway, :-) because it is a free gift for ordering PCB. Really, they are cheap enough that we can just include it and one thing less to worry about.
Case: Acrylic cases is not available with this group buy. It is too expensive and only a few people are interested in it. Sorry.
Teensy++: There is no room for a Teensy++ on a tenkeyless keyboard footprint. Designing Phantom to fit in a Filco case (a very good thing!) is also limiting where the controller can go the PCB. If we do a next version, and you want more pins, you will want to do a full size keyboard, or get a different controller that is also small like Teensy, or design the PCB to use a surface-mount controller and have a shop make the PCB and mount the components for us.
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A few last minute questions:
Do we have to source our own LEDs now? I don't see them on the order list anymore. What if we're having alaricljs or someone do the soldering?
If we want our stuff shipped to someone for the soldering service, is there a way that we should indicate that in our orders? I noticed that "SOLDERING" is no longer an order option.
litster, will those acrylic cases be available for the 7bit layout? How about ANSI-Win with the combined arrow-home cluster setup?
LEDs: 2 white LEDs come with the PCB.
You need to order your own LEDs from elewhere. because there are a lot of color-options so a group buy would be useless.
I've removes SOLDERING because you need to find someone on your own to do that and pay directly.
The acrylic cases will be available for 7bit layout. Just order them and cut out the section you need switches to be put on.
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I think litster decided there will be 2 white LEDs and matching resistors included in the sets. Those 4 components could possibly replace the resistor item. That is replace RESISTOR with LEDKIT. But that isn't really up to me to decide.
I had only a few blue LED orders. Don't see a reason to add LEDs again.
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really? i find this hard to believe. it's only 0.8in longer. an academic question regardless, as i don't need or want any fancy LED scheme.
pity about the cases though. i will be attempting to get the campus machine shop to fab something up for me. wish me luck!
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really? i find this hard to believe. it's only 0.8in longer. an academic question regardless, as i don't need or want any fancy LED scheme.
Yes, really. Believe it. Take a look at the Filco bottom case. Try fitting the larger Teeny inside that bottom case, IF you find room to fit the larger Teeny on the PCB that doesn't interfere with switches. I already have to cut a centimeter of supporting rib on the bottom case to let the USB cable pass through. Very simple to cut and no ill effect the case though.
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oh, i haven't actually seen the filco case internals. ok, i believe it.
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LEDs: 2 white LEDs come with the PCB.
You need to order your own LEDs from elewhere. because there are a lot of color-options so a group buy would be useless.
I've removes SOLDERING because you need to find someone on your own to do that and pay directly.
The acrylic cases will be available for 7bit layout. Just order them and cut out the section you need switches to be put on.
Hehe, out posts crossed. We still need a way for people to tell us where to ship their kits to for their soldering service. You can just submit your soldering service's address as your mailing address. In any case, it is the group buyers' responsibility to make sure that we have the information we need and who and where to ship your order to.
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Has anyone looked into writing the firmware for a keyboard with media keys? I'm having troubles figuring out how to implement Pause/Play, Next Track and Prev. Track. They aren't simple keys with keycodes defined in the USB HID standard. There are values for Vol. Up and Vol. Down tho.
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ok now i'm confused again. will there be cases of any kind available with the group buy?
i would write/find a driver that dumps scan codes and hit the keys you want to mimic.
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ok now i'm confused again. will there be cases of any kind available with the group buy?
i would write/find a driver that dumps scan codes and hit the keys you want to mimic.
Litster is doing an acrylic case for TKL. It's not really specific to this.
Probably I'll edit the usb_keyboard.c file then...
Also @Litster: I don't want to cut up your nice case for 7bit = (
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A few last minute questions:
Do we have to source our own LEDs now? I don't see them on the order list anymore. What if we're having alaricljs or someone do the soldering?
If we want our stuff shipped to someone for the soldering service, is there a way that we should indicate that in our orders? I noticed that "SOLDERING" is no longer an order option.
litster, will those acrylic cases be available for the 7bit layout? How about ANSI-Win with the combined arrow-home cluster setup?
If I am doing it I have ben buying the parts and having the person who wants it built pay me
EDit changed people are paying for their own stuff and having it shipping with mine.
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Litster is doing an acrylic case for TKL. It's not really specific to this.
Probably I'll edit the usb_keyboard.c file then...
Also @Litster: I don't want to cut up your nice case for 7bit = (
Couldnt he just edit his design a little and make the 7bit layout work?
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Case: Acrylic cases is not available with this group buy. It is too expensive and only a few people are interested in it. Sorry.
At least make the case 'open hardware,' so those of us interested in an acrlyic case can make their own without having to reinvent the wheel.
Has anyone looked into writing the firmware for a keyboard with media keys? I'm having troubles figuring out how to implement Pause/Play, Next Track and Prev. Track. They aren't simple keys with keycodes defined in the USB HID standard. There are values for Vol. Up and Vol. Down tho.
Really? I thought there were. I know openbox can accept them as events, and worked fine with my cmstorm, once I edited the config file.
How fast is the USB signaling? I could maybe capture what it sends on my 'scope, but the triggering is a little flaky after all these years.
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Has anyone looked into writing the firmware for a keyboard with media keys? I'm having troubles figuring out how to implement Pause/Play, Next Track and Prev. Track. They aren't simple keys with keycodes defined in the USB HID standard. There are values for Vol. Up and Vol. Down tho.
I think they have keycodes. Its the Mouse presses im worried about. I dont know how to do it all I do know is that hazu's firmware supports it as well as mouse presses is there like a about or readme for his code?
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Hmm.... Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm a little tempted to do the soldering for this myself. I have absolutely no experience with soldering and I'd have to buy the soldering iron and whatnot, which would be more expensive than having someone do the soldering for me, but I feel like it would be a good/painful bonding experience for me and my Phantom.
Is there anything in particular I should be aware of when planning this? I shouldn't need to pick up a second PCB in case of supremely screwing up the soldering, should I?
This will be my first adventure in soldering, too. I went to my local thrift store and grabbed some cheap stuff to practice on. Even radio/alarm clocks have PBCs inside. Its good to note as you practice what condition you leave the bored in during soldering/desoldering since that is what you are worried about. If you don't have enough heat in about 2 seconds, let it cool and start over because you could damage the board. That is what I've been told.
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Litster is doing an acrylic case for TKL. It's not really specific to this.
Probably I'll edit the usb_keyboard.c file then...
Also @Litster: I don't want to cut up your nice case for 7bit = (
You should not do that.
Your keyboard spits out key codes and you map them to whatever you need.
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Has anyone looked into writing the firmware for a keyboard with media keys? I'm having troubles figuring out how to implement Pause/Play, Next Track and Prev. Track. They aren't simple keys with keycodes defined in the USB HID standard. There are values for Vol. Up and Vol. Down tho.
The tmk code can do this. I was working on it but then my tool chain suddenly stopped working so it is delayed.
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Demik. Im not quite sure. There is a bandwidth limit. But i dont eecall off the top of my jead. Im out for a couple hours atm. Ill get back with it when im back and someone cant answer.
Litster: i see. Ill just map those keys to like f13 onward and remap on my pc.
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Has anyone looked into writing the firmware for a keyboard with media keys? I'm having troubles figuring out how to implement Pause/Play, Next Track and Prev. Track. They aren't simple keys with keycodes defined in the USB HID standard. There are values for Vol. Up and Vol. Down tho.
AFAIK it's mandatory that the board operates as a second USB device for the PC to sends the media signals (don't ask me why though, I've got no idea :P)... So probably not all that easy to do.
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This will be my first adventure in soldering, too. I went to my local thrift store and grabbed some cheap stuff to practice on. Even radio/alarm clocks have PBCs inside. Its good to note as you practice what condition you leave the bored in during soldering/desoldering since that is what you are worried about. If you don't have enough heat in about 2 seconds, let it cool and start over because you could damage the board. That is what I've been told.
Yes, you can damage the PCB, and lifting traces is common. Really, soldering/time only becomes an issue if you are soldering to a huge ground plane, which will absorb a lot of heat. If you have temperature control, heat up the iron more, and go quick.
I managed to lift a trace on an ALPS RK27 (potentiometer) breakout board, but I ended up just soldering directly to the pin anyway on that one.
Anyway, I'd recommend getting some sort of copper braid / solder sucker for mistakes, it really helps. There are some really good tutorials online for soldering. I liked the tangentsoft ones a lot:
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/
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speaking of tangent, the DIY audio community has a wealth of information for electronics hobbyist supplies and techniques. this is also how i got my start
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Any objection if we start a separate thread on firmware mods and building the kit? I think we will have a lot of posts about ordering, paying, shipping and such. Separate threads for ordering/shipping and modding and building could be helpful. Thoughts?
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Any objection if we start a separate thread on firmware mods and building the kit? I think we will have a lot of posts about ordering, paying, shipping and such. Separate threads for ordering/shipping and modding and building could be helpful. Thoughts?
Sounds good to me stick it in the mods section or your welcome to make as many threads as you like in my subforum.
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Hey, i am still thinking about buying a phantom but i need to know if it is possible to have the FN keys to toggle between different layers with the teensy. I would be willing to tinker around with the firmware myself to make those changes but i would need to know if it is possible before i buy everything.
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Hey, i am still thinking about buying a phantom but i need to know if it is possible to have the FN keys to toggle between different layers with the teensy. I would be willing to tinker around with the firmware myself to make those changes but i would need to know if it is possible before i buy everything.
It should be possible but it hasnt been done. I am currently going to use a locking switch to bypass this.
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looking at the teensy code, it looks like it's possible; easy even. no guarantees though.
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Any objection if we start a separate thread on firmware mods and building the kit? I think we will have a lot of posts about ordering, paying, shipping and such. Separate threads for ordering/shipping and modding and building could be helpful. Thoughts?
+1
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Just placed in my order for the 5th time, man this is one expensive GB :E
I shouldn't bother with these GB till the end, I always end up changing it like 5-6 times
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I am for dedicated threads for the firmware, so ppl can post modifications for their setups and ppl won't have to scroll through this thread for suggestions/questions regarding the stock phantom firmware.
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Be a good idea to use Profosists' forum so he can help moderate the threads. Off-topic and banter can get shunted over after the sub-thread dies down to keep the main thread easier to follow.
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Hey, i am still thinking about buying a phantom but i need to know if it is possible to have the FN keys to toggle between different layers with the teensy. I would be willing to tinker around with the firmware myself to make those changes but i would need to know if it is possible before i buy everything.
Should be possible. Since FN keys don't actually send anything to the computer. You just use this key to change a variable/state in your keyboard. I'm doing that with some of my keys.
Yes, I agree with custom firmware thread in TheProfosist forum. I'll be lurking there helping out and asking questions = D
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I will be there getting help :rofl:
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Should be possible. Since FN keys don't actually send anything to the computer. You just use this key to change a variable/state in your keyboard. I'm doing that with some of my keys.
Yes, I agree with custom firmware thread in TheProfosist forum. I'll be lurking there helping out and asking questions = D
Well who ever is going to create it go for it and ill sticky it.
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http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?26730-Teensy-Keyboard-Firmware-Discussion&p=502738
Go TheProfosist, Sticky it.
And for everyone else who has firmware questions, Pop in there instead of posting here (there's like 10-20 pages of just firmware discussion here already)
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http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?26730-Teensy-Keyboard-Firmware-Discussion&p=502738
Go TheProfosist, Sticky it.
And for everyone else who has firmware questions, Pop in there instead of posting here (there's like 10-20 pages of just firmware discussion here already)
done!
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I started a new wiki/mod post here: Building Phantom Hardware and Firmware Mods (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:26742)
I have put in a bunch of relevant information there, and a link to the Phantom soldering instruction. Please use the discussion area to discussion phantom soldering, phantom firmware mod, ask questions, and help each other out.
Please continue to use the thread on order and parts related topics. Thanks.
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Do we have to add the shipping to the order?
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Do we have to add the shipping to the order?
I will add the shipping costs based on your locations. No need to add something on your own.
2 days left for the Phantom and just a few more days for switches!!!
BTW: blue switches get now the lower volume price ($0.6 instead of $0.8).
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Group_Buy#Pricelist
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I have been on the fences about ordering one of these kits, but at the moment I am waiting on some money for work I have done. Is there going to be another group run later down the track?
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just to make sure I have enough... how many switches are on the 7bit layout?
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just to make sure I have enough... how many switches are on the 7bit layout?
[size=12]101[/b][/size]
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I have been on the fences about ordering one of these kits, but at the moment I am waiting on some money for work I have done. Is there going to be another group run later down the track?
There is a possibility for another round. But if there is ever another one, it will be at least 6 months to a year from now. If we do another one, I don't think it will be the same design. So it will take quite a bit of time to do another one using the experience we learned so far and will learn later throughout the building process.
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There is a possibility for another round. But if there is ever another one, it will be at least 6 months to a year from now. If we do another one, I don't think it will be the same design. So it will take quite a bit of time to do another one using the experience we learned so far and will learn later throughout the building process.
Full sized/Dox like keyboard next? Or maybe a design so that we can use more pins for LEDs/Backlighting (I love lights).
^_^I love this forum and all the **** we do here.
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If you would like to help me out... I have a Filco replacement design with full backlighting (using a couple extra chips). Biggest stall for me has been not having time to work out how to do the LED control so I can finalize the design. I have an LED test board, but haven't done any attempt at firmware. Wouldn't be able to go crazy with the options like the current design because of all the extra traces, but I think ISO and stepped Caps may be possible. Currently it's plain vanilla ANSIWIN layout.
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If you would like to help me out... I have a Filco replacement design with full backlighting (using a couple extra chips). Biggest stall for me has been not having time to work out how to do the LED control so I can finalize the design. I have an LED test board, but haven't done any attempt at firmware. Wouldn't be able to go crazy with the options like the current design because of all the extra traces, but I think ISO and stepped Caps may be possible. Currently it's plain vanilla ANSIWIN layout.
Depends on what you want to do with your LEDs. Are you maybe just going to keep them all on? Trying to make it give people with epilepsy seizures?
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Not to go too far off topic, but I had an idea to mod one of those matrix cherry POS boards so that the each key would light as you typed (as computers do in most cinematic representations of the future). It should also make random blinky patterns when you aren't using it and it is "working." So, yes, a controller that could handle a ton of lights, layers and behaviors is a win for me!
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Depends on what you want to do with your LEDs. Are you maybe just going to keep them all on? Trying to make it give people with epilepsy seizures?
LOL.... the hardware is setup so that it's fully programmable and controllable. Full individual LED control w/ teensy managed single LED PWM brightness. I did the design back in July/August, so it's not fresh in my mind, but the LED chips are 2x CAT4016 (Mouser) shift registers cascaded off of the teensy's MOSI/MISO pins. I need to get some sort of firmware working on it so I can validate my design and transistor/resistor choices.
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Not to go too far off topic, but I had an idea to mod one of those matrix cherry POS boards so that the each key would light as you typed (as computers do in most cinematic representations of the future). It should also make random blinky patterns when you aren't using it and it is "working." So, yes, a controller that could handle a ton of lights, layers and behaviors is a win for me!
There was a discussion somewhere about getting a LED per switch and having them light up as you type on them. Something like the first 10 seconds of this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_hEQT1aziQ
The one problem I have with this, is that when you type, you're fingers are gonna be over that key that lights up...But anyway the concept is really cool.
I think it could be implemented with medium/hard difficulty. The thing is that there will be a lot of wires flying around underneath the PCB (There is almost no way to get so many lines on a PCB).
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There was a discussion somewhere about getting a LED per switch and having them light up as you type on them. Something like the first 10 seconds of this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_hEQT1aziQ
The one problem I have with this, is that when you type, you're fingers are gonna be over that key that lights up...But anyway the concept is really cool.
I think it could be implemented with medium/hard difficulty. The thing is that there will be a lot of wires flying around underneath the PCB (There is almost no way to get so many lines on a PCB).
That's the PCB design I put together. Fully individual controlled LEDs, no extra layers or wires. All it would take is the programming to manage the LEDs, I haven't gotten that far yet.
Here's another project (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:19096) using these parts. Vid included in the page.
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Like this... -> http://www.rewiredgear.net/modImages/thermal.mp4 (http://www.rewiredgear.net/modImages/thermal.mp4)
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Here's another project (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:19096) using these parts. Vid included in the page.
And I just got back in touch with the fine gentleman that did that mod and he is working toward open-sourcing the project. Soooo, enjoy the vid it could be a reality for the next round.
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There was a discussion somewhere about getting a LED per switch and having them light up as you type on them.
you don't need a controller to do this. all you need is to wire the switches so that closing them triggers current through the diode
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That's the PCB design I put together. Fully individual controlled LEDs, no extra layers or wires. All it would take is the programming to manage the LEDs, I haven't gotten that far yet.
Here's another project (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:19096) using these parts. Vid included in the page.
I'm a bit confused about the no extra layers/wires. Since in the link the guys flies a ton of wires across the back of the board.
I'd love to write something using the teensy, but I have to wait for my phantom order to come with my 2 teensys.
Start another thread about lighting controller in the mod section to discuss this. I feel like I've derailed this thread too much.
you don't need a controller to do this. all you need is to wire the switches so that closing them triggers current through the diode
I'm not 100% sure about this. (need to have a look, but I'll take your word for this for now). But this doesn't allow the flexibility of doing crazy cool stuff like a Wave of lights going across your keyboard when you idle.
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And I just got back in touch with the fine gentleman that did that mod and he is working toward open-sourcing the project. Soooo, enjoy the vid it could be a reality for the next round.
Yeah, I'd do some rather questionable deeds to see those schematics and firmware source. I'd probably totally put in the time to build a pcb based on such schematics, considering I need such a controller for my project as well.
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I will add the shipping costs based on your locations. No need to add something on your own.
2 days left for the Phantom and just a few more days for switches!!!
BTW: blue switches get now the lower volume price ($0.6 instead of $0.8).
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Group_Buy#Pricelist
GUH? 25 shipping for CONUS? what th-?! why?
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I'm a bit confused about the no extra layers/wires. Since in the link the guys flies a ton of wires across the back of the board.
Start another thread about lighting controller in the mod section to discuss this. I feel like I've derailed this thread too much.
Yeah, I'd do some rather questionable deeds to see those schematics and firmware source.
His project was a mod to an existing backlit KB. I was trying to take it to the next level with a complete PCB replacement for the Filco 87key and did the PCB schematic for it. If my transistor choices are correct then it's fab ready, but I wanted to test my design and component choices before committing to a full board. I did a mini-board with just LEDs and the shift register and transistors for testing, but never made it to the coding stage.
I'll dupe this info into a new thread in our good friend TheProfosist's forum.
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His project was a mod to an existing backlit KB. I was trying to take it to the next level with a complete PCB replacement for the Filco 87key and did the PCB schematic for it. If my transistor choices are correct then it's fab ready, but I wanted to test my design and component choices before committing to a full board. I did a mini-board with just LEDs and the shift register and transistors for testing, but never made it to the coding stage.
I'll dupe this info into a new thread in our good friend TheProfosist's forum.
I will enjoy the discussion there. = ) Cos for Phantom v2 I would love to see some awesome LED features ; p
GUH? 25 shipping for CONUS? what th-?! why?
Omg Shipping to EU is 22. For once something cheaper for us EU people ><
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and yet shipping to DE is 9. HMMM I THINK I SEE WHERE THIS IS GOING
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I will add the shipping costs based on your locations. No need to add something on your own.
2 days left for the Phantom and just a few more days for switches!!!
BTW: blue switches get now the lower volume price ($0.6 instead of $0.8).
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Group_Buy#Pricelist
I live in EU but need shipping to US (alaricljs (http://geekhack.org/member.php?8933-alaricljs) )
y0
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you don't need a controller to do this. all you need is to wire the switches so that closing them triggers current through the diode
You need to ensure that the diode voltage drop is not so high that it prevents the keypress being recognized. Red LEDs might work; others probably won't.
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GUH? 25 shipping for CONUS? what th-?! why?
We also need to pay for boxes (if not using USPS priority mail boxes), packaging, and shipping cost to get the items shipped to the distributors in EU and USA. We also will be ordering items in EU and ship half of them to the US for distribution, and ordering items in the USA and ship half of them to EU for distribution there.
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I live in EU but need shipping to US (alaricljs (http://geekhack.org/member.php?8933-alaricljs) )
y0
I will add the GIFT option.
Should it be wrapped in some specific paper etc?
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We also need to pay for boxes (if not using USPS priority mail boxes), packaging, and shipping cost to get the items shipped to the distributors in EU and USA. We also will be ordering items in EU and ship half of them to the US for distribution, and ordering items in the USA and ship half of them to EU for distribution there.
I might get boxes from Ascaii (the ones from the scary cellar). Also, I've got some boxes myself, so I don't think I need to buy anything.
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GUH? 25 shipping for CONUS? what th-?! why?
I'm not responsible for the shipping costs. I'm quite sure it is insured shipping.
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Quick question, in the email we got for shipping address do we put ours or where we want it shipped?
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Cherry MX switches are rated for 10mA only, not saying you necessarily need more than that to get the desired effect.
Also, there is a ton of space on a double sided keyboard PCB. Space shouldn't be a big problem. Designing below the <500mA USB limit, and adding the extra components needed to handle the power, multiplexing/demultiplexing and so on is more interesting. Far from "hard" though I think =)
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I will enjoy the discussion there. = ) Cos for Phantom v2 I would love to see some awesome LED features ; p
Omg Shipping to EU is 22. For once something cheaper for us EU people ><
How much would shipping within UK?
I could ship a big box to you and you forward them to the others.
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you don't need a controller to do this. all you need is to wire the switches so that closing them triggers current through the diode
You need to ensure that the diode voltage drop is not so high that it prevents the keypress being recognized. Red LEDs might work; others probably won't.
Cherry MX switches are rated for 10mA only, not saying you necessarily need more than that to get the desired effect.
Also, there is a ton of space on a double sided keyboard PCB. Space shouldn't be a big problem. Designing below the <500mA USB limit, and adding the extra components needed to handle the power, multiplexing/demultiplexing and so on is more interesting. Far from "hard" though I think =)
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How much would shipping within UK?
I could ship a big box to you and you forward them to the others.
I'm not sure, depends on the weight. But UK have a decent post (Royal Mail).
A Standard Parcel (Larger than 353mm X 250mm X 25mm) is 4.41GBP Up to 2kg.
Depending on when this happens and how many I could offer to redistribute. (I reject anything past the april/may ish time (exams).
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I might get boxes from Ascaii (the ones from the scary cellar). Also, I've got some boxes myself, so I don't think I need to buy anything.
Get some of the ones webwit has so we can store the keyboard in it after it's done
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well, go ahead and tally it up, but i suspect it will cost much less per US order to ship (one big box to Bini from EU / # US orders + USPS prio postage)
but, if the switches are coming from EU, i would like to know how many switches i need to order for it to make sense to order via the gb and not just to wait and order on-demand from mouser.
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I will check with BiNiaRiS to see how much lower shipping it could be. If you are in the US, switches will be bulk-ordered in EU, then once 7bit receives the switches, he will count and ship all the switches that BiNiaRiS needs to ship out to him in the US. If you order switches with a kit then the same shipping cost will be for shipping all items together. If you are only ordering switches and nothing else, then we should be able to use cheaper shipping for just a 100 or so switches.
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well, if the switch costs + shipping end up coming out to something near mouser's prices, i'd rather wait for a US switch gb from mouser and get more (and only) boards and plates now, since they're the most scarce resource.
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I am also checking to see if WASDkeyboards has better pricing. We need to close the group buy first, get the final number of switches we need, and price them between our source (not mouser) and WASDkeyboards. The end result will not be much difference anyway whether we buy in EU and ship to the US or vice versa because we will pack everything and make one shipment. If you order them separately you might end up paying more in the end because you will be paying shipping for 2 orders. And I don't know if you will get another switch group buy in the US. Once everyone has ordered switches in this group buy, it will be quite a while before the is enough demand to run another switch group buy. Even if there will be one, it will probably not going to order as many switches as we are now, so it will have lower buying power for lower prices.
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ok. i'm happy to buy switches via this group buy, just running numbers and weighing against the amount of cash i have available for this project right now (i expect my own custom case efforts are going to cost a pretty big chunk of my budget as well..) ;)
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Get some of the ones webwit has so we can store the keyboard in it after it's done
And where did you put his keyboards? Does he know what you did?
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well, go ahead and tally it up, but i suspect it will cost much less per US order to ship (one big box to Bini from EU / # US orders + USPS prio postage)
but, if the switches are coming from EU, i would like to know how many switches i need to order for it to make sense to order via the gb and not just to wait and order on-demand from mouser.
Prices are including shipping to me and US.
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And where did you put his keyboards? Does he know what you did?
What are you talking about 7bit :crazy:
I was referring to these boxes
(http://webwit.nl/input/storage/new_boxes2.jpg)
(http://webwit.nl/input/storage/3.jpg)
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What are you talking about 7bit :crazy:
I was referring to these boxes
Show Image
(http://webwit.nl/input/storage/new_boxes2.jpg)
Show Image
(http://webwit.nl/input/storage/3.jpg)
But we can't use webwit's boxes!!!
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:pout:
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Are the MX switches the only parts originating in the EU? If so, I might just drop the two switches in my order to save on shipping...
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holy crap that's a lot of keyboards
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okay i PMed phantom with my address info and all that.. was i suppose to get an email confirming?
also, im not sure what switch i want. i really want one with green switches but im afraid i'll get finger fatigue due to the stiffness so maybe ill stay with blues.
ah, first world problems :(
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I think 7bit only runs his scripts once in a while. He should be sending a final invoice soon, either before or after we close the group buy. Thanks.
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okay i PMed phantom with my address info and all that.. was i suppose to get an email confirming?
also, im not sure what switch i want. i really want one with green switches but im afraid i'll get finger fatigue due to the stiffness so maybe ill stay with blues.
ah, first world problems :(
I stuck a black spring in a blue yesterday to try it out. Its certainly different. Its harder to get through the click than on a blue and once you do, you fall into that infinity feeling that blacks have. Not sure how a real green will be, but I'm willing to take the plunge. Its partially for novelty and partially to get the feeling of a clicky alps with the freedom of key choice that cherry stems give you.
Has anyone even seen a recent blue switch board with a green spacebar switch? Even my brown filco (from 2010) doesn't have a clear under the spacebar.
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my poker blue has a green under the spacebar. feels pretty darn good to me
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i tried a real green and i absolutely loved it.
but the problem is, one key doesn't really give you a feel compared to a whole board.
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You need to ensure that the diode voltage drop is not so high that it prevents the keypress being recognized. Red LEDs might work; others probably won't.
Or just add MOAR voltage and input protection on all the pins.
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Cherry MX switches are rated for 10mA only, not saying you necessarily need more than that to get the desired effect.
Also, there is a ton of space on a double sided keyboard PCB. Space shouldn't be a big problem. Designing below the <500mA USB limit, and adding the extra components needed to handle the power, multiplexing/demultiplexing and so on is more interesting. Far from "hard" though I think =)
Designing it to be under 500mA would be the elegant solution, but I wouldn't mind if an extra USB was used to power those things.
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Designing it to be under 500mA would be the elegant solution, but I wouldn't mind if an extra USB was used to power those things.
You will likely have to put it on a different hub completely, like on the other side of the computer. If you're going that far, why not just plug it into the wall?
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You will likely have to put it on a different hub completely, like on the other side of the computer. If you're going that far, why not just plug it into the wall?
What do you mean by a different HUB? Isn't it enough just plugging it in a different port (different rail)?
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Ok my order is in. Extrapolating from the OP, I ordered PHANSIREDKIT. That should work, right? Does the kit come with diodes, or do I need to order those separately?
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This is closing on 31st night right? I need to revise my order yet again :E
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Ok my order is in. Extrapolating from the OP, I ordered PHANSIREDKIT. That should work, right? Does the kit come with diodes, or do I need to order those separately?
Yep, you are good. switches, LEDs, LED spacers, resistors, diodes, plate, PCB, Teensy, and Teensy legs are included.
This is closing on 31st night right? I need to revise my order yet again :E
Don't worry, we will close before your make your final change. Just kidding!
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It's helpful picture as I can clearly see those small cut-out gaps on the plate around the switches. It is especially visible on the right side of the Esc switch. Could you make a closer picture of that area?
Sorry for the delay. Partly I was waiting for my new ballhead to come in today so I could use it to take the pictures. They are now posted in the mod section here:
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:26742&p=503932&viewfull=1#post503932
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Thanks. I made a comment on it.
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This is just too good to pass. Order submitted: I'm all in! (2x 7bit and a ridiculous number of switches because I want ALL spring/stem combos. People think I'm insane but that's ok.)
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This is just too good to pass. Order submitted: I'm all in! (2x 7bit and a ridiculous number of switches because I want ALL spring/stem combos. People think I'm insane but that's ok.)
Welcome to Geekhack. I see you've become friends with good old keyboard-addiction.
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I think 7bit only runs his scripts once in a while. He should be sending a final invoice soon, either before or after we close the group buy. Thanks.
I thought it would be best to send them after the closing date, which is today anyway.
I've added support for PayPal fees and inclusion of shipping addresses.
I will get through all this once I'm back home and send the invoices.
EU members can pay in EUR, I just have to figure out a way to properly convert $ to EUR so you don't pay too much or too few.
I will do this based on shipping addresses.
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Ok my order is in. Extrapolating from the OP, I ordered PHANSIREDKIT. That should work, right? Does the kit come with diodes, or do I need to order those separately?
Kits are complete with 100 switches and 100 diodes.
If you want additional switches or diodes, just add them separately.
Example:
PHANSIREDKIT
MXRED 5
DIODE 5
gives 105 switches / diodes.
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How many extra switches make sense? I currently have 105 switches in my order for the 101-key 7bit layout, but if there are 100 switches included in those ANSI kits, perhaps I should get another couple spares...
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What do you mean by a different HUB? Isn't it enough just plugging it in a different port (different rail)?
sometimes each USB port will be able to deliver the requisite 500 mA, but sometimes, a pair of them will share that. (I know this is true on the fujitsu lifebook T730 and T731 rear panel USB ports).
Ofcourse just as frequently, manufacturers will ignore the spec and make the port deliver whatever-the-heck they want. This helps with spinning up portable HDD's.
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Autolyze: I just increased mine to 110. I'll probably turn the excess into keychains.
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My confirmation email says that the extra 7bit plate I ordered is only $15. Is that right? If so I'm adding a PHANSIWIN...
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I think i messed up my order, when i tried to clearall and redo it with the missing item :/
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I agree with biolaser, this really is just too good to pass!
I liked the idea of a "keyboard for men", with only grey switches, and seeing this might be my only chance to lay my hands upon such switches, I couldn't help but order enough for a tenkeyless board. \o/
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I agree with biolaser, this really is just too good to pass!
I liked the idea of a "keyboard for men", with only grey switches, and seeing this might be my only chance to lay my hands upon such switches, I couldn't help but order enough for a tenkeyless board. \o/
They are even cheaper now. A few more orders and they cost the same as red, blue, brown or clear switches!
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Will the price for greys go down? I hope so...
/edit: Ah, nice, I hope my 95 switches did something towards it :P
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PHANTOM.........78
TEENSY..........83
PH7BIT..........16
PHANSI..........29
PHANSIWIN.......18
PHISO............7
PHISOWIN.........7
DIODE.........7651
MXBLACK........430
MXBLUE.........907
MXBROWN.......2051
MXCLEAR.......3979
MXDARKGREY......21
MXGREEN........579
MXGREY.........721
MXRED.........3751
STAB200........219
STAB625.........24
STAB700.........39
.
.
.
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ANSI > 7bit :whoo:
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Shouldn't green ones be cheaper then, too?
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ANSI > 7bit :whoo:
Cept I converted you to the ANSI7BIT layout? = 3
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ANSI > 7bit :whoo:
ANSI > 7BIT > ISO
47 > 16 > 14
:-)
ps: Please order the phantom keys via Round 4!!!!
Order IDs are the same:
PHANTOMFUN (Escape key)
PHANTOMMOD100
PHANTOMMOD125
PHANTOMMOD150
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Shouldn't green ones be cheaper then, too?
No, too few orders for them.
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Do we have an estimated US shipping for JUST a package of ~100 switches? $25 for shipping switches to the US brings the price up to Mouser levels. WASD is even cheaper... erk.
That is assuming that your last posted .60 per brown switch is still holding.
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Do we have an estimated US shipping for JUST a package of ~100 switches? $25 for shipping switches to the US brings the price up to Mouser levels. WASD is even cheaper... erk.
That is assuming that your last posted .60 per brown switch is still holding.
It is now $17.5 .
I'm not sure about prices for just switches.
I've got 2051 brown switches in the list, so if the $-€-relation does not change it will stay at $0.6 per switch including shipping costs to the distributor.
If 100 switches are less than 1kg including package, I could send them uninsured for $9.
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Gah! I almost forgot to order DIODE 88 !
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I did clearall at 14:52 and send my updated order at 14:55 and got a email this evening:
Dear maoiste,
here is your updated pre-order:
in order to come forward with this group buy, I need your shipping address!
So my order did not get processed yet and the bot only got clearall ?
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Also, what value resistors are being shipped with those white LEDs? :)
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my order seems to have been munged. no longer includes a pcb or diodes. also, if greys are going to be significantly less, i guess i'll jump on the gray bandwagon ;)
eta: nvm. seems to have been fixed. one more change incoming to switch to greys
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my order seems to have been munged. no longer includes a pcb or diodes. also, if greys are going to be significantly less, i guess i'll jump on the gray bandwagon ;)
eta: nvm. seems to have been fixed. one more change incoming to switch to greys
Price for grey went down again to 0.5 EUR or $0.65 .
0.5*1.3176==.65880
:shock:
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What is the status of the 'case' option? Previously, there was discussion that the acrylic wasn't very cost effective to produce, but I'm wondering if any increased interest may have changed that?
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Litster is working on that as completely separate from this. It may or may not materialize, or it may be a 'here are the plans/specs, good luck'.
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OK, MX grey is now as cheap as any other switch.
Thanks!
Now comes the green switch:
479
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OK, MX grey is now as cheap as any other switch.
Thanks!
Now comes the green switch:
479
What are the green ones like? I've ordered 2 of them...
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is it the grey switch linear or tactile ?
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What are the green ones like? I've ordered 2 of them...
Extra stiff blue.
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Lighter than grey, stiffer than blue. Possibly the greatest switch ever.
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Lighter than grey, stiffer than blue. Possibly the greatest switch ever.
So you think we should better order a set of 100 or two?
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Unless someone at OTD has done it, we might be there first people with all-mx green boards.
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Lighter than grey, stiffer than blue. Possibly the greatest switch ever.
Cherry says 2.3 oz, so ~65g click action switch.
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Unless someone at OTD has done it, we might be there first people with all-mx green boards.
http://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1040&hilit=wood
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So you think we should better order a set of 100 or two?
I'm thinking of switching my order from blue to green. I don't think I can spend money on both
Actually, I might get the greens to mod my poker to all greens instead of the browns it has.
How do I order again? Also, I just got an email asking me for my shipping again.. Was that an accident?
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http://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1040&hilit=wood
LOL. Thats pretty awesome.
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I'm thinking of switching my order from blue to green. I don't think I can spend money on both
Actually, I might get the greens to mod my poker to all greens instead of the browns it has.
How do I order again? Also, I just got an email asking me for my shipping again.. Was that an accident?
No it updates the next time, unless something went wrong.
Just set the quantity of what you want to remove to 0.
MXGREEN 100
MXBLUE 0
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when i send the address do I need to put my email?
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when i send the address do I need to put my email?
No.
Just ADDR would be helpful in the line above (or ADDRESS).
PHANTOM.........81
TEENSY..........85
PH7BIT..........18
PHANSI..........29
PHANSIWIN.......18
PHISO............7
PHISOWIN.........9
DIODE.........8342
MXBLACK........448
MXBLUE........1032
MXBROWN.......2191
MXCLEAR.......4222
MXDARKGREY......53
MXGREEN........611
MXGREY........1042
MXRED.........3626
.
.
Not bad!
More than 80 Phantom PCBs.
Let's make it 100!
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I did the first time. Is anybody near a poker and would be kind enough to let me know how many switches I'd need order not counting ones with LEDs?
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Poker has 61 switches.
There are total of 7 keys with LEDs.
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So I'd need 54. Thank you!
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I think that my order may have been screwed up as I got a email saying I ordered nothing I shall resubmit and see what happens.
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I still don't know if I want 2 or not!!!!! :faint:
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I still don't know if I want 2 or not!!!!! :faint:
Ill gladly build you 2 ;) If i could get a acrylic case I would make one with greens with a standard layout.
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You can build me a Dox!
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I know it's late, but will this work?
Phansigreenkit 1
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You can build me a Dox!
would be glad to more info is here (http://tinyurl.com/7eyjsvw)
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As of 3 days ago, no green kit code. I'm guessing you'll have to part it out.
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I know it's late, but will this work?
Phansigreenkit 1
Added GREEN and GREY options for kits.
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OK, so i'm ordering the PHANSIGREENKIT 1, and nothing else. I hope it has everything I need. Thx for the quick reply 7bit.
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OK, so i'm ordering the PHANSIGREENKIT 1, and nothing else. I hope it has everything I need. Thx for the quick reply 7bit.
It will.
PHANTOM.........86
TEENSY..........92
PH7BIT..........19
PHANSI..........29
PHANSIWIN.......19
PHISO............7
PHISOWIN.........9
DIODE.........9127
MXBLACK........458
MXBLUE........1150
MXBROWN.......2081
MXCLEAR.......4612
MXDARKGREY......67
MXGREEN........792
MXGREY........1159
MXRED.........3636
.
.
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blurk, ok, looks like i'm just getting a PHANSIWINGREYKIT then, since that's all my order was.
actually, 7bit, can you give us an update on what the unit prices for grey/green switches are up to now?
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blurk, ok, looks like i'm just getting a PHANSIWINGREYKIT then, since that's all my order was.
actually, 7bit, can you give us an update on what the unit prices for grey/green switches are up to now?
MXRED | 0.6|MX red plate mount switch (0.45 EUR)
MXBLUE | 0.6|MX blue plate mount switch (0.45 EUR)
MXBROWN | 0.6|MX brown plate mount switch (0.45 EUR)
MXCLEAR | 0.6|MX clear plate mount switch (0.45 EUR)
MXBLACK | 0.9|MX black plate mount switch (0.7 EUR)
MXGREEN | 0.6|MX green plate mount switch (0.45 EUR)
MXGREY | 0.6|MX grey plate mount switch (0.45 EUR)
MXDARKGREY | 1 |MX grey plate mount switch (0.8 EUR)
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gah! ok, you've got me; i'm loading up on greens too.
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Alright screw the other layouts, I'm going with 7bit's
:rockon:
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Hmm... I'm a little tempted to go green as well. Right now I've got a 7Bit layout with clears and an ANSI with blues, but all of the switches are so nice...
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get the greens. you know you want them
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I was hoping to test out the green switch a little by putting a single unit keycap on my blue Leopold's space once I got home from work, but as soon as I sat down and popped the spacebar off, I remembered that the Leopold actually uses a blue switch for space. Dammit.
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Totally in for greens.
-
Totally in for greens.
Its a revolution!
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Also, what value resistors are being shipped with those white LEDs? :)
Right now the resistors I am using on the prototype is 75ohm for a 3.5v LED. It is too bright as is withouth the firmware change. But with firmware change it is fine. We could probably go with a more resistive resistor. Any suggestion.
I just got out of an all-day meeting as work. It is amazing to see there are like 3 new pages of posts! Nothing like trying to get in before a deadline!!!
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Wanted to know since I have some special LEDs for someone and they need 100ohms which I do not as yet have. Any chance you have 4 of those you could throw into the package headed my way ? ;)
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Right now the resistors I am using on the prototype is 75ohm for a 3.5v LED. It is too bright as is withouth the firmware change. But with firmware change it is fine. We could probably go with a more resistive resistor. Any suggestion.
I just got out of an all-day meeting as work. It is amazing to see there are like 3 new pages of posts! Nothing like trying to get in before a deadline!!!
Why more resistance?
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Lower voltage LEDs like mine :) The series of LEDs I picked from run from 2.8 to 3.4 volts depending on color, with all of them functioning properly at 3.1 volts which works nicely with 100 Ohms.
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Lower voltage LEDs like mine :) The series of LEDs I picked from run from 2.8 to 3.4 volts depending on color, with all of them functioning properly at 3.1 volts which works nicely with 100 Ohms.
Well I know that! But I is that what he meant?
Its hard to cater to everyone. Since resistance required is dependent on Voltage and Current of the LEDs.
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Using the higher resistance with the same LEDs he is distributing will mean the particular LEDs he has will be a little dimmer at MAX brightness. He's already said that level of brightness is a bit extreme.
Also it will mean that people can buy cheapass LEDs on ebay from this dude: ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-pcs-3mm-Round-white-Superbright-LED-Light-20000MCD-/120643670426?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c16ec519a#ht_3477wt_1014) and have Litster's resistors ready to go. (if they are 100Ohms)
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Yes, strong resistors will lower the brightness of the LEDs. So right now I am using 75ohm resistors. It would be a lot of work to de-solder all the switches to replace the 75ohm resistor with another resistor. Could just just solder another resistor on the other side of the PCB to increase resistance? What is the right resistance to add to the back to make 100ohm? I can probably get one locally t test with, and if 100ohm works with the current LEDs, maybe we can just change all resistors to 100ohm.
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Yes, strong resistors will lower the brightness of the LEDs. So right now I am using 75ohm resistors. It would be a lot of work to de-solder all the switches to replace the 75ohm resistor with another resistor. Could just just solder another resistor on the other side of the PCB to increase resistance? What is the right resistance to add to the back to make 100ohm? I can probably get one locally t test with, and if 100ohm works with the current LEDs, maybe we can just change all resistors to 100ohm.
You can add a 25 ohm if you put it in series to get the 100 ohm. You can't put one in parallel to get 100 ohm from your 75 ohm.
Imo I think that you should use something close to the limit of the operating region of the LED and use the Teensy to control brightness.
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7bit, can i change my shipping address? do i have to resubmit my address to phantom bot?
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You can add a 25 ohm if you put it in series to get the 100 ohm. You can't put one in parallel to get 100 ohm from your 75 ohm.
Imo I think that you should use something close to the limit of the operating region of the LED and use the Teensy to control brightness.
I think I can only do it in parallel. If I have to do it serially, I would have to de-solder the whole keyboard to get to that one resistor.
-
Will PH7BITREDKIT 1 work?
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I think I can only do it in parallel. If I have to do it serially, I would have to de-solder the whole keyboard to get to that one resistor.
There's no solution in parallel! We can only go downwards with parallel (to go upwards, only in series).
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Will PH7BITREDKIT 1 work?
I don't think so, but you can see what happens. You'd probably have to do something like:
PHANTOM 1
PH7BIT 1
TEENSY 1
MXRED 110
DIODE 110
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There's no solution in parallel! We can only go downwards with parallel (to go upwards, only in series).
Indeed.
Resistors added in series
R = R1 + R2 + R3 + ...
Resistors added in parallel
1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 + ...
Also, does anyone know what dark grey switches are like? Going from the wiki description, it is like a heavier (80cN) black switch.. so could I conceivably make a ghetto one with a light grey spring (also reportedly 80cN) and black stem? I grabbed a few on this group buy so I guess I'll find out.
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I don't know either, but keep in mind that 80cN is only halfway down!
80cN at ACTIVATION. That's halfway. It gets tougher.
So it's a pretty stiff spring.
-
I don't think so, but you can see what happens. You'd probably have to do something like:
PHANTOM 1
PH7BIT 1
TEENSY 1
MXRED 110
DIODE 110
Thanks.
Off topic: Is there any sense in mixing switches on the same keyboard? Maybe blacks on the modifiers/number/function keys and reds on the letters or something (OR any other combination)? Do any keyboards do that or do they generally all stick with one switch type? I use blues atm in the two mechanical keyboards I have.
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Not sure if this is completely relevant but I just wanted to share this if this is news to you guys :p
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.269321719802212.60277.241720585895659&type=1
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January is almost over for North America! Hurry up and get your orders in!
http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/custom.html?sort=2
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Off topic: Is there any sense in mixing switches on the same keyboard? Maybe blacks on the modifiers/number/function keys and reds on the letters or something (OR any other combination)? Do any keyboards do that or do they generally all stick with one switch type? I use blues atm in the two mechanical keyboards I have.
Normally the only switch that might be different is the spacebar, but there's no reason you can't mix them up a little bit. I was kind of leaning towards something along those lines myself, although I still haven't completely decided how I want the switches to be set up.
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Is there any sense in mixing switches on the same keyboard? Maybe blacks on the modifiers/number/function keys and reds on the letters or something (OR any other combination)? Do any keyboards do that or do they generally all stick with one switch type? I use blues atm in the two mechanical keyboards I have.
The two mods in my sig use mixed switches and (for me) it is a big improvement. I'm planning to make two variable force Phantom builds using mixed (and modded) switches, one linear and the other clicky.
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I just ordered. :D Went with 7bit's layout with a full set of reds (110 to be safe) and 25 blacks in case I want to use blacks on row 1 and the keys along the edges of the main cluster.
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Most of the world is already in February. USA East Coast is in February as well. I guess everyone still have a couple more hours to get their last orders in before 7bit runs his script one more them and closes the group buy.
Thank you all for your support of the Phantom project so far! Please bear with us while we tally the orders, collect money, and get the parts ordered. The heavy lifting work will soon begin for the Phantom team!
Start studying the Phantom Instruction wiki here: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Instruction
If you have questions about soldering and firmware features and development go here: http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:26742&do=comments&page=1
Maybe order some soldering tools and keycaps from 7bit's group buy to get ready.
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I hope everything I ordered is right, didn't get a update from 7bit's script yet, but that normally takes awhile
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I am sure 7bit will send a final invoice, and then you all can double check and let us know any missing or extra items for correction.
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You can add a 25 ohm if you put it in series to get the 100 ohm. You can't put one in parallel to get 100 ohm from your 75 ohm.
Imo I think that you should use something close to the limit of the operating region of the LED and use the Teensy to control brightness.
Yeah, I plan to solder mine no the underside for easier access. Also: start high, and parallel!
Man, I just realized that I should have added 110 cherry blues and another plate, so I can make another one but PCB-less like lowpoly's apple MO110.
ah well.
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Yeah, I plan to solder mine no the underside for easier access. Also: start high, and parallel!
You will need to watch for clearance if you do this. If you use a Filco case, it should be fine. If you use a case like my acrylic case where the PCB sits on a piece of acrylic, the resistor will make the keyboard wobbly.
Man, I just realized that I should have added 110 cherry blues and another plate, so I can make another one but PCB-less like lowpoly's apple MO110.
ah well.
Add the order now before 7bit wakes up. You can still get it in. It is not even 10pm on the West Coast! :-)
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You will need to watch for clearance if you do this. If you use a Filco case, it should be fine. If you use a case like my acrylic case where the PCB sits on a piece of acrylic, the resistor will make the keyboard wobbly.
Add the order now before 7bit wakes up. You can still get it in. It is not even 10pm on the West Coast! :-)
Good idea! Maybe I'll sneak one in under the radar. I plan to make a case out of cardboard pilfered from out Warehouse at work.
Now, do I go with greens or blues for #2..? Greens look excellent for a BS lover like me, but I could just as easily get blues and spring swap for the same effect. How much is that colour really important to me..?
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the green a) looks awesome b) is actually a unique spring iirc c) GREENS
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I added a few extra greens for safety. I don't have a spare case for this. I'm not sure I'll go with cardboard, but I will certainly find something fun to put it in. In light of the CNC'd tenkeyless cases that vortex just posted, I might hold out to see what will happen with those.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]39209[/ATTACH]
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I'm going with a cardboard case, since I don't feel like cutting up a body to fit the 7bit layout. I was also inspired by litster's cardboard case, which I think looks great :)
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Cardboard for me too, at least in the short term.
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Also, what value resistors are being shipped with those white LEDs? :)
There is really no reason to ship it with anything else than what till match the "maximum" brightness of the LEDs we pick. Resistors should be possible to get as good as everywhere, and they are anything but expensive. And if you are getting your own LEDs, get some resistors at the same time =)
I think I can only do it in parallel. If I have to do it serially, I would have to de-solder the whole keyboard to get to that one resistor.
I've tried to put all components close to where the switch holes are in the plate. It is going to be tight but my hope is that it at least wouldn't be impossible to reach them if necessary...
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Yeah, I plan to solder mine no the underside for easier access. Also: start high, and parallel!
Man, I just realized that I should have added 110 cherry blues and another plate, so I can make another one but PCB-less like lowpoly's apple MO110.
ah well.
You can still order.
[size=12]1337th post[/size]
PHANTOM..........91
TEENSY...........98
PH7BIT...........22
PHANSI...........31
PHANSIWIN........21
PHISO.............7
PHISOWIN..........9
DIODE.........10093
MXBLACK.........472
MXBLUE.........1220
MXBROWN........1987
MXCLEAR........4596
MXDARKGREY.......84
MXGREEN........1404
MXGREY.........1211
MXRED..........3960
STAB200.........260
STAB625..........30
STAB700..........46
.
-
PHANTOM..........91 TEENSY...........98
wait wat.
-
Teensies are useful you know ;)
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PHANTOM..........91 TEENSY...........98
wait wat.
I ordered an extra teensy for other purposes. = )
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I don't suppose there would be some kind of price drop if we made it to 100 Phantom boards?
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I just got a second preorder invoice after sending my shipping address with a slightly lower price (Reds dropped again :D). Did my address not go through?
-
On the cardboard cases... you might try a little bondo or painter's putty to fill the cut corrugated edges and then paint the whole thing.
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I just got a second preorder invoice after sending my shipping address with a slightly lower price (Reds dropped again :D). Did my address not go through?
Yes it did. I will fix it for Round 4.
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How much are reds now?
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.57 dollars or .43 EUR.
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I just sent a PM to PHANTOM to try and get 87 blue switches. We'll see if it's too late or not. :)
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Text:
PH 0002 tsangan <------------!!!!!
Text is very important!
No text - no Phantom - no refund!
Did you want that in the notes section in PayPal?
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Just got my invoice... So will shipping be adjusted for buying a handful of switches only? $17.50 shipping to a US address for 20 MX switches is just...
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At least you only got charged once for shipping! lol :)
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Did you want that in the notes section in PayPal?
Yes, because we would not know who paid if this is left empty or there is only random code.
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Just got my invoice... So will shipping be adjusted for buying a handful of switches only? $17.50 shipping to a US address for 20 MX switches is just...
You can choose the shipping method yourself.
For example SHIPUNINSURED would cost $9.
I'm not sure how much shipping costs for smaller orders within the US are.
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100 Switches in the US should fit in a ~$7 box.
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100 Switches in the US should fit in a ~$7 box.
That is exactly what BiNiaRiS just told me. Waiting for 7bit to update the script.
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i got my invoice.. but i need it shipped to alaricjls.. do i put that in the notes section? i completely forgot to put his sn instead of my address
also, even though it says in the invoice we have 7 days to pay.. i just want to double check if it's okay that i can pay on monday?
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Paid mine.
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i got my invoice.. but i need it shipped to alaricjls.. do i put that in the notes section? i completely forgot to put his sn instead of my address
also, even though it says in the invoice we have 7 days to pay.. i just want to double check if it's okay that i can pay on monday?
Paying Monday should be OK. Keep in mind that we can't order parts until we have collected money for all invoices. The sooner you all pay the sooner we can get the orders out. :-)
Soldering service providers, if you haven't send me your list of customers for me to cross reference, please do so as soon as possible.
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7bit, I resubmitted my order with different (increased) switch quantities. Can you re-send the invoice and check the shipping fee? The invoice that went out earlier today charged me twice for shipping. Thanks!
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Do I have to do a bank transfer? Because I have to like go down to the bank and do it...stupid bank I'm using.
-
Is shipping to the US the same regardless of whether or not I order switches?
-
Same as long as you are ordering a PCB and a plate.
-
I am finishing my order up and collecting the bit of money that I need for parts. I am still willing to assemble keyboards for people regardless of where you are located. Please pm me if you are interested.
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so we in the US shouldn't pay until 7bit corrects his shipping right?
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Either way, I'm not going to pay until payday on Friday. Y'all will just have to wait until after then.
Bytheway, I think $35 is an excellent deal on a custom PCB this size. Will there be extras later for those that were latecomers?
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so we in the US shouldn't pay until 7bit corrects his shipping right?
What is wrong with your invoice?
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from post earlier it sounded like shipping should be 7? i have 17.50 on my invoice.
gerk. think i'm going to add another plate and board to my order :X. that might end up being an appropriate shipping quote regardless... ;)
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from post earlier it sounded like shipping should be 7? i have 17.50 on my invoice.
ONLY if you are ordering just small items like switches that can fit inside a small USPS priority mail cardboard box. If you have at least 1 PCB or 1 plate, it is going to be $17.50 for CONUS.
Just got my invoice... So will shipping be adjusted for buying a handful of switches only? $17.50 shipping to a US address for 20 MX switches is just...
100 Switches in the US should fit in a ~$7 box.
That is exactly what BiNiaRiS just told me. Waiting for 7bit to update the script.
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Alright, that's great! What should those of us who are just getting the small pieces do? Re-submit an order, or wait for an update on the current order for the new $7 shipping rate?
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You should only wait if you are in the US *and* ordering small items that can fit in a small USPS Priority Mail cardboard box.
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One more question, you can still go for the cheaper uninsured shipping if you ordered pcb+place right? The <1kg qualifier is a bit confusing.
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One more question, you can still go for the cheaper uninsured shipping if you ordered pcb+place right? The <1kg qualifier is a bit confusing.
Sounds like you are in EU. Wait for 7bit's reply then.
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No, I am in the US. I guess things will be just fine then.
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100 Switches in the US should fit in a ~$7 box.
I added SHIPUSCHEAP to the price list:
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Group_Buy#Pricelist
Just order SHIPUSCHEAP and the other shipping method gets removed.
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i got my invoice.. but i need it shipped to alaricjls.. do i put that in the notes section? i completely forgot to put his sn instead of my address
also, even though it says in the invoice we have 7 days to pay.. i just want to double check if it's okay that i can pay on monday?
Just send a new address to Phantom:
ADDRESS
alaricjls
-
Did you want that in the notes section in PayPal?
Can we pay using paypal? My invoice only has bank account information and no mention of paypal.
-
i got my invoice.. but i need it shipped to alaricjls.. do i put that in the notes section? i completely forgot to put his sn instead of my address
also, even though it says in the invoice we have 7 days to pay.. i just want to double check if it's okay that i can pay on monday?
Monday will be fine.
7bit, I resubmitted my order with different (increased) switch quantities. Can you re-send the invoice and check the shipping fee? The invoice that went out earlier today charged me twice for shipping. Thanks!
This is done automatically.
You can add/remove stuff until we've ordered. Then you can only add.
Do I have to do a bank transfer? Because I have to like go down to the bank and do it...stupid bank I'm using.
Just send
PAYPALINT
and you get a new invoice.
Is shipping to the US the same regardless of whether or not I order switches?
Yes.
If it is the wrong shipping method, choose the correct one by yourself (like SHIPUSCHEAP instead of SHIPUNINSURED).
so we in the US shouldn't pay until 7bit corrects his shipping right?
Now you can pay, except if you want to order more or it is the wrong shipping method.
here is the price-list:
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Group_Buy#Pricelist
Either way, I'm not going to pay until payday on Friday. Y'all will just have to wait until after then.
Bytheway, I think $35 is an excellent deal on a custom PCB this size. Will there be extras later for those that were latecomers?
Yes, nobdy told me how many. I suggested 102 PCBs (93 are sold).
Alright, that's great! What should those of us who are just getting the small pieces do? Re-submit an order, or wait for an update on the current order for the new $7 shipping rate?
Just add the
SHIPUSCHEAP
kit to your order!
One more question, you can still go for the cheaper uninsured shipping if you ordered pcb+place right? The <1kg qualifier is a bit confusing.
I'm unsure if a PCB + plate +100 switches are less than 1kg.
If they are it works. If not: it doesn't.
For switches it should work for up to 300 switches or so. I will see when I've got the switches.
If n doubt about shipping costs, just pay the items now and pay shipping later.
The prices for items will not change anymore.
Can we pay using paypal? My invoice only has bank account information and no mention of paypal.
Just order the
PAYPAL
or
PAYPALINT
kit, depending on wether you are in the US or elsewhere.
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I should really draw the line somewhere, but I guess this means that it's not too late to order some more switches and perhaps a spare PCB?
Although then I might as well get another mount plate... and another teensy..
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I should really draw the line somewhere, but I guess this means that it's not too late to order some more switches and perhaps a spare PCB?
Although then I might as well get another mount plate... and another teensy..
Order as may as you whish!
The more the better!!!
But keep in mind you also have to pay for key caps!
-
I know, I know, I'm sticking with R4. ;)
Are we close to another price drop for any of the switches here?
-
I don't suppose it's too late to order some pcbs...or had this ship already sailed?
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I don't suppose it's too late to order some pcbs...or had this ship already sailed?
Nothing has even been produced, so you still can order as many PCBs as you wish!
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Thanks 7bit. The thread looks hectic as ****. = P
Once the invoice comes in for paypal, I'll have it payed.
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Thanks 7bit. The thread looks hectic as ****. = P
Once the invoice comes in for paypal, I'll have it payed.
But don't use the GIFT option!!!!!!!
Apropos:
Sorry everybody!!!
I ran the wrong script so instead of re-sending invoices to people who did not submit their addresses, I submitted them to everybody. If you already have one and like it more than the one you just got, ignore it!
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But don't use the GIFT option!!!!!!!
Apropos:
Sorry everybody!!!
I ran the wrong script so instead of re-sending invoices to people who did not submit their addresses, I submitted them to everybody. If you already have one and like it more than the one you just got, ignore it!
I just noticed I sent the script to you and not PHANTOM. Fail!. Waiting for nother email to be sent back to me with the paypal info.
Edit: PAID!
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Just paid :)
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I ran the wrong script so instead of re-sending invoices to people who did not submit their addresses, I submitted them to everybody. If you already have one and like it more than the one you just got, ignore it!
Oh ok. I paid yesterday so I was a little confused when I got two more invoices after I paid.
EDIT: Also, 7bit.. If we order round four keycaps does that ship together so we can save on shipping or do these group buys ship from different places?
-
7bit: my new invoice is missing shipping.
-
PM sent. Now to wade through the mess that is round 4 ;p
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my invoice has extra numbers on my shipping address that i did not add.. problem with the script?
-
demik, your shipping address should be 'alaricljs' as long as you're still having me put it together :)
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yeah im trying to get that fixed but my question wasn't answered yet
ill try to get in touch with bini and have him send it to you instead of me.
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Oh ok. I paid yesterday so I was a little confused when I got two more invoices after I paid.
EDIT: Also, 7bit.. If we order round four keycaps does that ship together so we can save on shipping or do these group buys ship from different places?
If you are in Europe, I can hold it back until the key caps arrive.
-
7bit: my new invoice is missing shipping.
Just add it by yourself:
SHIPUS
-
my invoice has extra numbers on my shipping address that i did not add.. problem with the script?
Xxxxx Xxxxxx
0000 X. Xxxxx Xxxxxxx Xx.=20
Xxxx Xxxxxxxx, XX 00000
XXX
You mean the =20 ?
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yeah im trying to get that fixed but my question wasn't answered yet
ill try to get in touch with bini and have him send it to you instead of me.
The proper way would be to give
alaricljs
as address.
I add it for you, then there will be no problem with =20 anymore.
-
thank you 7bit :)
-
Payment sent!
-
Just sent in payment. Can't wait!
Off-topic: glad that GH is working again!
-
What is the planned method of shipping (from the US, ) to Canada? Just want to make sure it's by mail, not UPS, who charge extortionate brokerage fees.
-
I think for non-US shipping distributed by BiNiaRiS, it will be shipped with USPS 1st class parcel mail.
Everyone, please get you payments in as soon a possible. Thanks.
-
paid!!!!!
cannot wait!!!!!!
-
Paid a couple days ago.
I cannot wait for this stabilizer-less Cherry keyboard to come together.
Dream come true.
-
Payment sent.
-
Obviously we'll need to wait until everybody's paid up, but is there a time window once the order is put in by you guys to being delivered to all of us?
Certainly no rush, just curious. ;)
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We are going to set a deadline for payments. probably a week from Monday. If you haven't paid by then, we will cancel your order. Giddy up!
-
Once the money is collected, orders go to the plate maker and PCB fab. They have to do their job and then get the parts in the 'mail'. There is also the switches to be bought from a source apparently in Germany from what I recall. I believe that the switch order is going to wait a little while until there's ETAs on the plates and PCBs in order to let the switch buy grow.
-
I guess this means we have a little more time to buy yet more stuff, as long as we pay up? $$$
-
As for time between ordering parts to shipping to you, we don't have a solid time frame. PCB should be quick, maybe 2 weeks from order to arrival in the US. I don't know the lead time for switches. Parts from Digikey should be quick. We also need to order pin headers from China which could take 2 to 3 weeks. Plates should take a couple of weeks. I could be the long pole as I need to make 50+ 7x costar stabilizer bars. It could take me 2 to 3 weekends if I don't make them efficiently.
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We also need to order pin headers from China which could take 2 to 3 weeks. Plates should take a couple of weeks.
Why from china. If it'll take it that long, you can get them from mouser/digikey. pin headers are pretty common.
-
At 10x the cost if I recall my research correctly.
-
Usually the reason to order from China is because it is cheaper. In this case, it is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper, so cheap we just throw it in with every Teensy order.
-
can we get a rough estimate of how many payments we're waiting on at this point? (or better, a public shaming! :)
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It is too early to shame anyone. People will get to it soon. I think on Friday 1/3 of invoices were paid.
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You should ship them out in the order in which they were paid.
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That would be even more work...
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Anyone else want an ANSI 1.25 layout with 7bit's function row? (More keys without going crazy!)
I wonder if I could use Rapoo V7 plate for that...
Also how do you get an invoice? Do I have to order one of the payment options?
-
Payment deadline February 13th, 2012 confirmed. Please pay as soon as possible so we can get order parts. Thanks.
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Payment deadline February 13th, 2012 confirmed. Please pay as soon as possible so we can get order parts. Thanks.
Also I will now threaten those who haven't paid that I will break their arms. >= D. I want my Phantom!
-
As for time between ordering parts to shipping to you, we don't have a solid time frame. PCB should be quick, maybe 2 weeks from order to arrival in the US. I don't know the lead time for switches. Parts from Digikey should be quick. We also need to order pin headers from China which could take 2 to 3 weeks. Plates should take a couple of weeks. I could be the long pole as I need to make 50+ 7x costar stabilizer bars. It could take me 2 to 3 weekends if I don't make them efficiently.
Switches take 4 weeks, plus one week at most for bathing and shipping to US.
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can we get a rough estimate of how many payments we're waiting on at this point? (or better, a public shaming! :)
Apropos:
PAYPAL |PayPal fees | 2.9%| | | 2.30
Total | | | |106| 81.44
Payments | | | | | -81.44
Amount Due | | | | |5.99999999951707e-05
^^^WTF!
There is someone who has still to pay $5.99999999951707e-05 !
Nevertheless:
Total: 18548.71
Paid: -12065.11
Due: 6565.65
That is 2/3, not bad.
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I know this is suuuuper late, but can I still get in on this? Payment deadline is not until the 13th, and if I can confirm what parts I need, I can make payment same day today.
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I know this is suuuuper late, but can I still get in on this? Payment deadline is not until the 13th, and if I can confirm what parts I need, I can make payment same day today.
Just send a mesasage to Phantom (please don't forget your e-mail address)!
Please look here fore the pricelist:
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Group_Buy#Pricelist
Please use this format for your message:
PHANTOM 1
PH7BIT 1
TEENSY 1
DIODE 110
MXRED 110
MXCLEAR 110
email@yourdomain.xxx
ADDRESS
Your Address
At where You Live
plus the ZIP code and all that.
Thanks for your order!!!
-
Got my receipt. ^_^
-
I got another email to tell me to pay again when I paid already :<
-
Switches take 4 weeks, plus one week at most for bathing and shipping to US.
Wait, not only is 7bit individually testing thousands of switches, he's BATHING THEM???!!! Don't forget to put a rubber ducky into the tub.
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Wait, not only is 7bit individually testing thousands of switches, he's BATHING THEM???!!! Don't forget to put a rubber ducky into the tub.
YEAH!ˇˇ!!!ˇ!!ˇˇ
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I got another email to tell me to pay again when I paid already :<
Don't worry, it only meanms that I did not yet get an update that your payment came in.
The last update for PayPal payments was from the 5th!
Also, it could be worse:
Please pay --> $5.99999999951707e-05 <-- until the 13th Feb via PayPal (no gift!) to:
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Really? He's bathing them?
Imagine like a bathtub of switches and 7bit taking a bath in switches. That's Hot.
-
he is going to add lube to switches. :D
-
Problem fixed!
Really? He's bathing them?
Imagine like a bathtub of switches and 7bit taking a bath in switches. That's Hot.
Yes, to make sure the dirt from the factory comes off. You should receive clean switches!
It would be really hot if your avatar would bath with me in the switches!!!
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I sent my payment on the first and am still getting invoices...
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he is going to add lube to switches. :D
yeah, and I will write a shell script to swap the springs:
cat $MXCLEAR | sed 's/clearspring/redspring/' > $MXERGOCLEAR
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I sent my payment on the first and am still getting invoices...
Invoice #0000 for TheProfosist
Order-ID |Description |Price|Qty|Pcs| Total
...
Sum |before fees | | |000| 000.00
PAYPAL |PayPal fees | 2.9%| | | 00.00
Total | | | |000| 000.00
Payments | | | | |-000.00
Amount Due| | | | | 0.00
Everything has been paid up to the penny!
Thank you for your order!
Don't see the problem!
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Invoice #0000 for TheProfosist
Order-ID |Description |Price|Qty|Pcs| Total
...
Sum |before fees | | |000| 000.00
PAYPAL |PayPal fees | 2.9%| | | 00.00
Total | | | |000| 000.00
Payments | | | | |-000.00
Amount Due| | | | | 0.00
Everything has been paid up to the penny!
Thank you for your order!
Don't see the problem!
Its cool with me as long as you actually have my money im good.
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Don't forget to put a rubber ducky into the tub.
What?!? I don't want a rubber-dome Ducky anywhere near my MX switches.
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Its cool with me as long as you actually have my money im good.
[size=12]
Everything has been paid up to the penny!
Thank you for your order!
[/size]
-
What?!? I don't want a rubber-dome Ducky anywhere near my MX switches.
OK, I will tell webwit to drop by.
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Ok I spent about an hour to skim the thread, it answered a lot of my questions but these are the ones I still need answers to:
1) The Teensy controller is fully programmable for a Dvorak layout, right?
2) Can I add LEDs to all the switches (and have it adjustable) instead of just the two standard LEDs on the top right?
3) I want something like the Japanese Filco layout, like THIS (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20464-What-did-you-add-to-your-Keyboard-today-Post-Your-Pics&p=500119&viewfull=1#post500119) one. It looks like the 7BIT Mounting Plate will support this? Where am I going to get a custom size space bar with the appropriate stabilizers for a layout like that that Jap Filco?
Please help me with these questions, as I want to decide a layout and pay today.
-
1) yes
2) no
3) I'll let 7bit take that one.
-
Everything has been paid up to the penny!
Thank you for your order!
Hopefully this doesn't mean I can't take you up on your offer on the previous page. If it makes a difference I'll have it payed as soon as I hear back.
-
I got an invoice also. But I'm guessing it was a mass email.
-
1) The Teensy controller is fully programmable for a Dvorak layout, right?
yes
2) Can I add LEDs to all the switches (and have it adjustable) instead of just the two standard LEDs on the top right?
no
3) I want something like the Japanese Filco layout, like THIS one. It looks like the 7BIT Mounting Plate will support this? Where am I going to get a custom size space bar with the appropriate stabilizers for a layout like that that Jap Filco?
I'll let 7bit take that one.
Why can't LEDs be added to all switches? The cherry switches comes with a hole for an option to add LEDs to them.
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^I don't think the circuit we have will support the ability to light them though.
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Why can't LEDs be added to all switches? The cherry switches comes with a hole for an option to add LEDs to them.
And the Phantom PCB design doesn't provide traces or holes to mount the LEDs through nor any circuitry to provide power. The fact that Cherry switches have a location for LEDs does not mean that this is all that is required to get lighting on a key.
-
^I don't think the circuit we have will support the ability to light them though.
Although if someone was mod-crazy enough to do it, I think it's possible. Just add the LEDs with resistors to all switches, and tap it into the 5v rail of the USB. But then it'll be permanently on unless you make a physical LED off switch.
-
3) I want something like the Japanese Filco layout, like THIS (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20464-What-did-you-add-to-your-Keyboard-today-Post-Your-Pics&p=500119&viewfull=1#post500119) one. It looks like the 7BIT Mounting Plate will support this? Where am I going to get a custom size space bar with the appropriate stabilizers for a layout like that that Jap Filco?
Please help me with these questions, as I want to decide a layout and pay today.
You need a STAB200 (suitable for keys from 2 to 2.75 units) and you need to find a way to fix the stabiliser somehow whithout support by the mount plate.
Or just take 1.5 units keys as space bars.
-
Although if someone was mod-crazy enough to do it, I think it's possible. Just add the LEDs with resistors to all switches, and tap it into the 5v rail of the USB. But then it'll be permanently on unless you make a physical LED off switch.
I would love to see that rats nest that is ~90 resistors with wires a and LED legs.
You need a STAB200 (suitable for keys from 2 to 2.75 units) and you need to find a way to fix the stabiliser somehow whithout support by the mount plate.
Or just take 1.5 units keys as space bars.
In other words, no, it is not possible.
-
Although if someone was mod-crazy enough to do it, I think it's possible. Just add the LEDs with resistors to all switches, and tap it into the 5v rail of the USB. But then it'll be permanently on unless you make a physical LED off switch.
I would love to see that rats nest that is ~90 resistors with wires a and LED legs.
Well.....
If you really wanted to do it (properly) you could drill tiny holes in the phantom PCB for the LED's. Most LED's have enough leg length for this. Then you could place all of them, then connect them to a piece of stripboard below the desk as it were. This could be controlled by a separate microcontroller (or my favourite) have the "normal" LED's turn a transistor on and off, and have that power your massive 'board full LED array. You'd still run into some issue with them drawing a lot of current, but that's really just a brightness issue. Get efficient LED's
Ofcourse, you'd probably have to abandon PWM based on the properties of the transistor, and figure that out... I'd wait for other designs to try this.
Also, having 1 resistor per LED is so gauche. Just use a current limited DC converter and some control circuitry.
-
Although if someone was mod-crazy enough to do it, I think it's possible. Just add the LEDs with resistors to all switches, and tap it into the 5v rail of the USB. But then it'll be permanently on unless you make a physical LED off switch.
The LEDs would be flimsy as hell. and trying to solder around the switches would be near impossible since they are so close to each other. You might be able to get away with doing an LED "net" and laying it around to backlight some areas, but it would be insane to do it for each key.
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Alright, I'll give up on the the idea of soldering on LEDs to every switch for a backlit effect lol.
I finally read enough of the thread to know how this works (first 36 pages). I can't decide between stock filco ANSIWIN layout or the 7BIT layout, so I'll order both plates, 101 switches in case I go with 7bit plate, and 5 stabilizers in case I go with the ANSIWIN layout. I like the amount of keys the bottom row can support for 7bit's layout, but it'll be super hard to find a perfect set of caps for them.
For those that are doing the 7bit layout, how are you doing the space bar? Just using a normal R4 1.25x key? Is there any way I can get a spherical shape key (like the space bar but not as long) without having to go through the group buy round 4? I don't think I have the patience to wait for SP.
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Alright, I'll give up on the the idea of soldering on LEDs to every switch for a backlit effect lol.
I finally read enough of the thread to know how this works (first 36 pages). I can't decide between stock filco ANSIWIN layout or the 7BIT layout, so I'll order both plates, 101 switches in case I go with 7bit plate, and 5 stabilizers in case I go with the ANSIWIN layout. I like the amount of keys the bottom row can support for 7bit's layout, but it'll be super hard to find a perfect set of caps for them.
For those that are doing the 7bit layout, how are you doing the space bar? Just using a normal R4 1.25x key? Is there any way I can get a spherical shape key (like the space bar but not as long) without having to go through the group buy round 4? I don't think I have the patience to wait for SP.
What do you want from 7BIT layout?
-
The extra keys on the bottoms row, but I'm not sure how the space bar will work.
-
Alright, I'll give up on the the idea of soldering on LEDs to every switch for a backlit effect lol.
I finally read enough of the thread to know how this works (first 36 pages). I can't decide between stock filco ANSIWIN layout or the 7BIT layout, so I'll order both plates, 101 switches in case I go with 7bit plate, and 5 stabilizers in case I go with the ANSIWIN layout. I like the amount of keys the bottom row can support for 7bit's layout, but it'll be super hard to find a perfect set of caps for them.
For those that are doing the 7bit layout, how are you doing the space bar? Just using a normal R4 1.25x key? Is there any way I can get a spherical shape key (like the space bar but not as long) without having to go through the group buy round 4? I don't think I have the patience to wait for SP.
You can get 2 G80-2551 to cover it. But keys will not always properly labeled and the return key might be smaller as it could (1 unit instead of 1.25).
Better get Round 4 stuff. Also, the space bar can be up to 1.5 units wide.
-
Well.....
If you really wanted to do it (properly) you could drill tiny holes in the phantom PCB for the LED's.
Mostly there are actually no traces in the places where the LEDs are supposed to go. But (and this is a big one) I was a good boy and added ground planes to both sides of the PCB, all over the place. Good luck doing a mod like this =D Well actually the ground plane might be of some help too.
-
I'll just get both of the plates and worry choosing which one I want to use later since order time is running out. Can someone confirm my parts to see if I need to add anything else to the list? I got 105 mx red switches in case I use the 7bit layout, and all the stabilizers in case I use the filco layout. Btw, is there any reason to buy stabilizers from this group buy rather than the stabilizers from WASDkeybaord for a few cents? Is the quality different or will it not fit?
PHANTOM 1
PH7BIT 1
PHANSIWIN 1
TEENSY 1
DIODE 120
MXRED 105
MXCLEAR 3
MXGREEN 3
MXGREY 3
STAB200 4
STAB625 1
SHIPUSCHEAP 1
MXCLEAR 110
-
I think they're the same (WASD is supplying those stabilizers except the 7x ones).
-
I'll just get both of the plates and worry choosing which one I want to use later since order time is running out. Can someone confirm my parts to see if I need to add anything else to the list? I got 105 mx red switches in case I use the 7bit layout, and all the stabilizers in case I use the filco layout. Btw, is there any reason to buy stabilizers from this group buy rather than the stabilizers from WASDkeybaord for a few cents? Is the quality different or will it not fit?
checking ...
PHANTOM 1<---OK
PH7BIT 1<---OK :-)
PHANSIWIN 1<---WARNING: You won't need it!
TEENSY 1<---OK
DIODE 120<---OK
MXRED 105<---OK
MXCLEAR 3<---WARNING: You need 105 switches to mod them to ergo clears with the red springs!
MXGREEN 3<---OK
MXGREY 3<---OK
STAB200 4<---WARNING: No stabliliser necessary for 7BIT layout (for PHANSIWIN OK).
STAB625 1<---WARNING: No stabliliser necessary for 7BIT layout (for PHANSIWIN OK).
SHIPUSCHEAP 1<---ERROR: no cheap shipping for phantom PCBs and plates! You need SHIPUS
MXCLEAR 110<---OK
done.
Status: ERROR!
1 error(s), 4 warning(s).
-
BUMP!!!!
This is still open!
Please pay if you got an invoice.
If your account shows a positive balance, please order more!!!
Thanks!
Deadline: Monday 2012-02-13.
Deadline for switches: Tuesday 2012-02-14
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How come the Cherry stabilizers were not available?
And I want to send in my order to get the invoice. You said to PM "Phantom", who is that? Can't seem to find his profile.
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If it is easy to find, it wouldn't be called the Phantom! LOL! Here is a link to Phantom's profile: http://geekhack.org/member.php?14604-Phantom
Plate-mount Cherry stabilizers are out of stock every where around the world. Good thing we can source costar stabilizers and I figured out how to bend stabilizer bars for 7x spacebars. I about about 10 stabilizer bars made, still 40+ to go :-(
-
imo the costar stabilizer design is significantly more solid anyway
-
Plate-mount Cherry stabilizers are out of stock every where around the world.
Only half true. Mouser does have plate mount 2x1 stabilizers in stock (part #540-G99-0224). You are right about the spacebar stabilizers being out of stock everywhere though. However, the wires are the same for PCB and Plate mount stabilizers, so you can just harvest the spacebar wire from a donor board if you happen to have one (like me). So if you really want cherry stabilizers you can get them, but it would be unreasonable to try and have them available in the group buy.
-
yes, you are right. We could also order from our Cherry switch source. I was wishy washy before :-). Most people like costar more, and I figured out how to bend 7x bars. The plates still support Cherry stabilizers so you can still use them, but you will have to procure them yourselves.
-
Sent in my order! Now just waiting for the invoice to pay.
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Anyone know where I can get a plate like this done? It's basically the PHANSIWIN plate, except the space bar is broken into two, so maybe it can be filled with 2 large spherical caps to be space bar and backspace. This is what I wanted from the 7bit plate, because I feel the 7bit plate has too many switches on the bottom for my personal usage. I just want it simple like the stock Filco layout, except two space bars.
Here's a quick picture I edit of the PHANSIWIN plate and my own keyboard to visualize what I want from this build. Notice that this plate also supports stabilizers for both space bars. Can anyone confirm if the PCB can support this layout and the swtich holes will line up properly? if it does, I will probably try to find somewhere that can cut a plate like this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/customplate.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/edited.jpg)
-
Yea I could probably do it with simple tools, but look at the shape of the cut out. Does not look that simple and I'd rather not spend over a day filing it to a perfect shape.
-
yes, you are right. We could also order from our Cherry switch source. I was wishy washy before :-). Most people like costar more, and I figured out how to bend 7x bars. The plates still support Cherry stabilizers so you can still use them, but you will have to procure them yourselves.
The switch source: either 250 or 500 not just 330 2 units stabilisers. MOQ for 6.25 or 7 units would have been far too high.
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I sent my order via PM to Phantom. How long does it take to get my invoice to pay? I want to send the payment ASAP, before the payment deadline.
Btw, who was in charge of the plate design and who did the water-jet cuts for them?
-
Still no confirmation email 7bit regarding my payment
-
i dont think anybody got one.
i know i didnt
-
i got one
-
what did it say?
-
i dont think anybody got one.
i know i didnt
Still no confirmation email 7bit regarding my payment
I checked for you two, we received your payments.
-
good to know, thanks litster :D
-
@ lister or 7bit,
Can you please send me the actual invoice to pay? I've been waiting for a few days now, and still did not get an invoice. I only got the preorder email, which just confirmed me what I wanted and it said:
This is only a pre-order! Prices might change! Please do not pay!
I need the actual invoice to pay.
-
@ lister or 7bit,
Can you please send me the actual invoice to pay? I've been waiting for a few days now, and still did not get an invoice. I only got the preorder email, which just confirmed me what I wanted and it said:
I need the actual invoice to pay.
You need to wait for 7bit to run his script to generate and send your invoice to you.
-
Well when will he run it? It's been a few days, and payment deadline is in a few hours.
-
@WhiteFireDragon: Try to order one of the payment methods. I think I got an invoice when I did.
It would also be nice if you posted a list of people who have payed and who hasn't. I haven't gotten any confirmation on payment either.
-
Last day to pay. Pay now if you haven't already. Thanks.
-
I've paid Biniaris.
But shouldn't there be a receipt?
-
I paid too via paypal last night, didn't get any kind of receipt/confirmation.
-
simmer down folks. i think biniaris has to get payment info to 7bit, who then runs his scripts to deliver receipts. there were at least a few days between payment and getting my receipt (which just said paid in full). i mean, as long as you have an invoice and the paypal confirmation, i think you should be fine...
-
I've paid Biniaris.
But shouldn't there be a receipt?
I paid too via paypal last night, didn't get any kind of receipt/confirmation.
If paypal says you paid, then it should be fine. kaiserreich, I see your payment recorded.
-
We have not received payments for the following buyers:
Invoice# BuyerName
0007 slueth
0058 iJustin
0067 Ciardhubh
0096 Donbabbeo
0111 F u r u y a
0124 Vast
0125 zhiren
0128 Mrinterface
Furuya, you have a balance $55. You have not paid in full, unless you removed items from your order that we don't kwow about.
-
We have not received payments for the following buyers:
Invoice# BuyerName
0007 slueth
0058 iJustin
0067 Ciardhubh
0096 Donbabbeo
0111 F u r u y a
0124 Vast
0125 zhiren
0128 Mrinterface
Furuya, you have a balance $55. You have not paid in full, unless you removed items from your order that we don't kwow about.
Uh oh. Someone's in trouble...
-
We have not received payments for the following buyers:
Invoice# BuyerName
0007 slueth
0058 iJustin
0067 Ciardhubh
0096 Donbabbeo
0111 F u r u y a
0124 Vast
0125 zhiren
0128 Mrinterface
Furuya, you have a balance $55. You have not paid in full, unless you removed items from your order that we don't kwow about.
Please notice that you told me, that we try to find lower shipping costs for far-away shippings, so not everybody paid their shipping costs!!!
-
Please notice that you told me, that we try to find lower shipping costs for far-away shippings, so not everybody paid their shipping costs!!!
Exactly, I did not paid the shipping following 7bit's recommendation.
I got a strange item
SHIPKO |? Shipping costs to Korea (42 EUR) |55.00| 1| 1| 55.00
so I asked 7bit and he told me to not pay the shipping.
litster, so is it ok my payment and now I just wait for a new quotation for the shipping?
-
Furuya, your payment is good for now. BiNiaRiS will let you know later how much shipping it is going to be for you. Thanks.
-
Ok. Thanks!
-
FYI, we are in the process of doing some accounting work and getting parts ordered. It is going to take a few days to a week to get everything ordered.
-
Thanks guys. I'm excited.
-
hooray
-
The group buy is going along very smoothly considering all of the work that has needed to be done. Here's hoping that the ordered parts don't take too long to manufacture.
-
hehe, you should come see how the sausages are made! We have so much email going on behind the scene :-)
-
Hey, I got another "please pay" email from 7bit's bot. Am I paid up?
-
Hey, I got another "please pay" email from 7bit's bot. Am I paid up?
I thought I did too till I read the bottom line
"Everything has been paid up to the penny!"
Dunno if yours is the same as mine
-
Hey 7bit, do I get free Weiner Shnitzel for post 1500? ;)
edit: ninja'd !! arg!
-
Hey 7bit, do I get free Weiner Shnitzel for post 1500? ;)
edit: ninja'd !! arg!
I'm that good :first:
-
Hey, I got another "please pay" email from 7bit's bot. Am I paid up?
You are fine.
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Hey, I got another "please pay" email from 7bit's bot. Am I paid up?
Yah, read all the way to the end. It should have a line for how much you've paid and how much is remaining (if any) but it sounds like everyone is accounted for already.
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I thought I did too till I read the bottom line
"Everything has been paid up to the penny!"
Dunno if yours is the same as mine
I had a previous one that got sent out ofter I paid that said that, but this one said "Please pay --> $$$$ <-- until the 22nd Feb via PayPal (no gift!) to:"
You are fine.
Ok, thanks. I was worried there for a second. Thanks again, Litster.
Edit: My phantom order is expensive, but worth it! (I edited out the price)
-
Ragnorock is organizing a group buy of a set of red on black 87-key set with an add-on kit for Phantom (1.5x modifiers and 1x diamond keys). Also available is a 104 add-on set. There is also an ISO add-on kit if it reaches 15 orders.
Link here: http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?27473-quot-Ragnarok-quot-Doubleshot-Red-on-Black-87-104-Keyset-Order-Thread-TAKING-ORDERS
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So if the paypal transaction reads "completed" then our orders are confirmed? I wasn't worried until I read all of the above. :-P
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"completed" means you order has been shipped. Thank you for shopping with us. Have a good day!
Just kidding. People who didn't pay or had problem we have already contacted them separately. Some people never paid, replied to PM and email, so they were dropped. But if you were not on the list I posted previously, you are good.
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Cant wait for this to show up i revised my layout again and im stoked! http://tinyurl.com/7u6oczr
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are there going to be an extra parts? it looks like i'm going to highly desirous of a phansi plate
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are there going to be an extra parts? it looks like i'm going to highly desirous of a phansi plate
:thumb:
Best plate of them all
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Yup, to me PHANSI is the whole point aside from having a fully programmable keyboard. I got a PHANSI and a PH7BIT.
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Hey 7bit, do I get free Weiner Shnitzel for post 1500? ;)
edit: ninja'd !! arg!
No, the winner is tsangan!
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ae/Wiener-Schnitzel02.jpg/800px-Wiener-Schnitzel02.jpg)
-
That looks so yummy! :hungry:
Thanks 7bit :P
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Yah, read all the way to the end. It should have a line for how much you've paid and how much is remaining (if any) but it sounds like everyone is accounted for already.
Invoice #0000 for xxxxxxx
Order-ID |Description | Price|Qty|Pcs| Total
...
SHIPUS |Shipping costs within US | 17.50| 1| 1| 17.50
Sum |before fees | | | 7| 000.00
PAYPAL |PayPal fees | 2.9%| | | 0.00
Total | | | | 7| 000.00<----------
Payments | | | | |-000.00<----------
Amount Due | | | | | 0.00
Everything has been paid up to the penny!
Thank you for your order!
Don't see the problem.
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Yup, to me PHANSI is the whole point aside from having a fully programmable keyboard. I got a PHANSI and a PH7BIT.
I ordered a spare PHANSI plate, too.
-
We are all Phansi Pants!
-
:(
-
(http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2010/9/24/1285335427020/Measure-Fancy-pants-002.jpg)
-
[ATTACH=CONFIG]41332[/ATTACH]
-
Tears of joy
-
(Attachment) 41332[/ATTACH]
I want my Phantom NAO!
-
how was that plate painted? that looks hot
-
BiNiaRiS is doing some magic for us. I hope he will tell us what it is soon. ;-)
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Will this run again? :( Did anyone order extras they don't need?
-
I just wanted to post here and say that I ordered 87 Blue Switches that I'm not going to use. So, if anyone is interested in those, you can PM me now, but I'll also post something in the Classifieds once I actually get them.
I also ordered 87 Clear Switches, but I may or may not use those. It depends on if my wife wants me to keep the brown switches in her keyboard, or if she wants something stiffer, in which case I will use Clears. There is a small chance I'll try Ergo Clears, but I'm worried I'll do all the work and the keys will not bounce back fast enough for her.
-
how was that plate painted? that looks hot
Anodized, noobs paint
-
I painted the first Phantom prototype's plate :-(
-
can we get anodizing or powdercoating service? holy **** want
-
Stay tuned.
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Will this run again? :( Did anyone order extras they don't need?
You can still order!
Here is the pricelist:
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Group_Buy#Pricelist
You need at least
PHANTOM
TEENSY
DIODE 100
PHANSI
or whatever ...
To order, just submit a message to Phantom!
Don't forget to add your e-mail address.
-
You can still order!
Here is the pricelist:
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Group_Buy#Pricelist
You need at least
PHANTOM
TEENSY
DIODE 100
PHANSI
or whatever ...
To order, just submit a message to Phantom!
Don't forget to add your e-mail address.
Oh crap... Haha, awesomecake, thanks! :) I had been keeping up with this but then didn't for about two months and then bam when I finally checked it was over. When do I have to pay by? Can it be tomorrow... I have little money in the bank right now, all of it is at home and I need to deposit it.
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are there going to be an extra parts? it looks like i'm going to highly desirous of a phansi plate
You can still order!
Here is the pricelist:
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Group_Buy#Pricelist
You need at least
PHANTOM
TEENSY
DIODE 100
PHANSI
or whatever ...
To order, just submit a message to Phantom!
Don't forget to add your e-mail address.
Did you see this mkawa?
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Oh crap... Haha, awesomecake, thanks! :) I had been keeping up with this but then didn't for about two months and then bam when I finally checked it was over. When do I have to pay by? Can it be tomorrow... I have little money in the bank right now, all of it is at home and I need to deposit it.
It depends on where you are located.
Europe: take your time and pay by bank transfer in EUR.
Restworld: pay yesterday via PayPal.
;-)
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Okay, I'm in Europe, in the UK. Guess I'm fine! :)
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Don't understand how it works but this ebay seller claims easy anodizing
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminum-Anodizing-Dye-Paint-Color-/150628751506?pt=Paint_Paint_Supplies&hash=item23122c5892
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Don't understand how it works but this ebay seller claims easy anodizing
That's post-anodizing dye.
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Guys, please do not submit new orders. We have already ordered some parts. We need to close the books so we can move forward with the group buy. If you order now, you will get a refund.
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That's post-anodizing dye.
Wonder if it works well, I want to change the colour on my anodized poker shell
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Guys, please do not submit new orders. We have already ordered some parts. We need to close the books so we can move forward with the group buy. If you order now, you will get a refund.
Sorry, was not aware of this.
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So I can't order then? :(
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Was the teensy already ordered because I`ve paid for another about 2 hours ago (also some diodes but that doesn`t concern me).
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So I can't order then? :(
Not at this time. We will be ordering some extra parts, but those will be sold after everything else has been shipped out.
Was the teensy already ordered because I`ve paid for another about 2 hours ago (also some diodes but that doesn`t concern me).
Teensy's have been ordered so there is a chance you will get a refund. We will have to do a final count and let you know.
I finished my build of one of the 2 Phantom Prototypes last night.
To answer your questions on the plate, we need to address a couple issues on them, but we will be anodizing them in probably 2 colors. I will be contacting everyone on a vote for those 2 colors soon.
If you would prefer not to have your plate anodized, that is an option as well. Just be warned that they might have surface scratches on them and won't look at all finished.
Here are 2 pics of my Phantom. One with Dolch caps, and one with Dye Subs. All caps are Cherry Corp caps.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]41372[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]41373[/ATTACH]
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(Attachment) 41332[/ATTACH]
Those switches look brighter than I anticipated. My all-green board might look good with clear caps. I definitely want a colored plate, though. looks awesome!
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(Attachment) 41372[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 41373[/ATTACH]
Mmmmmmmmm boy!
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Not at this time. We will be ordering some extra parts, but those will be sold after everything else has been shipped out.
[strike]Ah, okay, so I'll be able to get a Phantom PCB and plates after all? That was the most worrying part as the rest I could source myself, though it would all be much more expensive from what I've been able to find. I'm guessing I wouldn't be able to reserve a PCB? :P[/strike]
Never mind.
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Sorry guys, the new orders are throwing us in a loop. We can't place orders for parts if we keep getting new orders. We will get extra PCBs and plates for backup, and if we have any left, we will sell them after everyone has received their order.
-
If anyone ends up having ordered a few extra greys please let me know via pm or here (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?27655-Light-Grey-(grey-39)-space-bar-switches-stems-amp-springs) for more info.
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ryan: i might end up with a few extra greys depending on how many come with the kit. best to ask folks again after people start finishing their boards
my prelim vote for plate colors is some kind of blue
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If anyone ends up having ordered a few extra greys please let me know via pm or here (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?27655-Light-Grey-(grey-39)-space-bar-switches-stems-amp-springs) for more info.
You can still order them as the switch gb deadline is 27.2
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You can still order them as the switch gb deadline is 27.2
Seems to be some conflicting info on that but i'll definately jump in if I can.
Sorry guys, the new orders are throwing us in a loop. We can't place orders for parts if we keep getting new orders. We will get extra PCBs and plates for backup, and if we have any left, we will sell them after everyone has received their order.
Guys, please do not submit new orders. We have already ordered some parts. We need to close the books so we can move forward with the group buy. If you order now, you will get a refund.
-
I would have said orange was a cool plate color, but the TypeNow beat us to that. I like the idea of blue or purple. Something phantom-ish.
-
gold plate > all other colours
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]41451[/ATTACH]
-
litster knows how I roll :rofl:
-
Man, you are still up? I am going to bed. Good night.
-
Man, you are still up? I am going to bed. Good night.
I'm off to bed too lol 4.30am ain't no thang
-
litster knows how I roll :rofl:
You roll on a teal Vespa in a pink helmet. Or at least that's how I always picture you in my head.
:plane:
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Screw being "beat", ORANGE is awesome!!! :-D
heh. 7bit told me that orders were still open, and I started to put in another order, but ended up just correcting my switches. Glad I didn't add a whole other board. BAD 7BIT!! Trying to get me in trouble. :-P
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heh. 7bit told me that orders were still open, and I started to put in another order, but ended up just correcting my switches. Glad I didn't add a whole other board. BAD 7BIT!! Trying to get me in trouble. :-P
-
Here are 2 pics of my Phantom. One with Dolch caps, and one with Dye Subs. All caps are Cherry Corp caps.
(Attachment) 41372[/ATTACH] (Attachment) 41373[/ATTACH]
You know which set I'd like to see on it! :D
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Screw being "beat", ORANGE is awesome!!! :-D
heh. 7bit told me that orders were still open, and I started to put in another order, but ended up just correcting my switches. Glad I didn't add a whole other board. BAD 7BIT!! Trying to get me in trouble. :-P
Sorry, not my fault.
My information was that nothing has been ordered yet, so orders where open.
-
TEAM BLUE!
-
Hey, I'm having some thoughts about switches and I'd like to add some...Is that possible?
-
How are the parts ordering coming along?
-
Hi. Coming along okay. We have some of them ordered (teensy, pin headers). The late orders, late payments, non payments, and late order changes slowed us down because we have to keep updating the order list. Bad. BiNiaRiS and I will get most of the rest parts ordered this weekend. Switches will still have to wait for 7bit closes his group buy.
At least now I have 7bit on my IM so I can chat with him, if he is online.
-
Probably. I still have to make another 40 pieces of 7x Costar stabilizer bars. I could be the long pole. If you ordered switches with your other Phantom parts, they will be shipped together, not separately. If you didn't order switches with your other Phantom parts, then it will depend on how the shipping process is organized by BiNiaRiS and 7bit. They could choose to ship out whatever is ready to ship out first, or they could choose to ship them all together because that is how they sort the parts and ship. Batching is always easier to manage and faster overall than doing them separately.
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Probably. I still have to make another 40 pieces of 7x Costar stabilizer bars. I could be the long pole. If you ordered switches with your other Phantom parts, they will be shipped together, not separately. If you didn't order switches with your other Phantom parts, then it will depend on how the shipping process is organized by BiNiaRiS and 7bit. They could choose to ship out whatever is ready to ship out first, or they could choose to ship them all together because that is how they sort the parts and ship. Batching is always easier to manage and faster overall than doing them separately.
So can I add more switches...?
-
you do bank transfer with 7bit directly, right? I think he is still taking payments. Paypal to BiNiaRiS will drive him and I up the walls. :-)
-
you do bank transfer with 7bit directly, right? I think he is still taking payments. Paypal to BiNiaRiS will drive him and I up the walls. :-)
I paypal'd so I'll leave it. I'm sure there is someone who has extras. Or I could grab them elsewhere, no problems.
-
Well, the problem is 7Bit now has MXWHITE switches in there, which were not available prior to payment deadline. I'd like to try some out, but don't want to drive anybody up the wall either.
-
:frusty:
How many of you want to add to orders?
-
:frusty:
How many of you want to add to orders?
Instead, can we take off some items? I realized the 7bit plate is not practical for a case or keycaps :(. I bought 2 plates, would like to take off the 7bit one if possible.
-
Add, not minus or change.
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Sorry, I was being a jerk. The thing is, the switch group buy and the Phantom are tied at the hip for better or worse. The Phantom group buy is locked. We are not Amazon with an inventory system and can make order changes on the fly. Even with Amazon you can't change your orders after it is in production. We are in production. It is just that our production period is longer. There are a lot of things to sort out behind the scene. We already ordered some parts. It is a real pain to keep changing the order list and keeping track of money coming in and out *after* it is closed. The only other option is to cancel your order and we give you a refund. We can't keep letting people change their orders to no end.
Sorry.
-
I completely understand that the Phantom GB is locked. I was only asking about the switches and only because I can't pay 7bit directly. No biggie though.
-
fwiw i am 100% set and anxiously awaiting parts delivery
-
Wait, white switches? Don't tell me to RTFW.
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Wait, white switches? Don't tell me to RTFW.
It's as if these have just sprung out of nowhere really. Saw a thread (this one (http://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1966)) over at Deskthority the other day and was quite surprised as I'd read the day before that these had gone out of production in 1987.
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Thanks for the link!
Another kind of clicky switch? Do want. This is kind of a big deal ... I'm willing to drive Bini up the wall to get these. 7bit/litster, instructions? Should I just PM Phantom again, or order through Deskthority?
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Sorry, I was being a jerk. The thing is, the switch group buy and the Phantom are tied at the hip for better or worse. The Phantom group buy is locked. We are not Amazon with an inventory system and can make order changes on the fly. Even with Amazon you can't change your orders after it is in production. We are in production. It is just that our production period is longer. There are a lot of things to sort out behind the scene. We already ordered some parts. It is a real pain to keep changing the order list and keeping track of money coming in and out *after* it is closed. The only other option is to cancel your order and we give you a refund. We can't keep letting people change their orders to no end.
Sorry.
I totally understand, if anyone cancels an order I'll have it :)
also bring on Phantom 2! lol
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we can just order some from keyboardco, dunno if there's a MOQ for it though, I believe sixty got his there
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Does anyone feel like putting together a separate white switch GB? I'm sure there would be a number of takers. I don't suppose The Keyboard Company offers discounts for bulk orders?
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Does anyone feel like putting together a separate white switch GB? I'm sure there would be a number of takers. I don't suppose The Keyboard Company offers discounts for bulk orders?
Just send a meassage to Phantom and order MXWHITE.
Price is not fixed at the moment, so please wait a bit for paying it, until we reached around 1000 orders.
Do not order Phantom parts. Orders are closed.
But switches can still be ordered!
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7bit, take it my additions got rejected? :(
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Just send a meassage to Phantom and order MXWHITE.
Price is not fixed at the moment, so please wait a bit for paying it, until we reached around 1000 orders.
Do not order Phantom parts. Orders are closed.
But switches can still be ordered!
You are awesome. Thanks for jumping on the white switches!
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7bit, take it my additions got rejected? :(
What did you order?
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pm'd you mate :)
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i thew in an order for whites, but i'm waiting for more information on what the force curve and feel for these are -- if they're just blues with clear springs, i'm not so excited.
-
Cherry doesn't seem to acknowledge their existence.
http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/key/mx.htm
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this just means that no one's sent the technical documentation to the marketing folks though. clearly, they exist, and if they exist, we can measure them
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this just means that no one's sent the technical documentation to the marketing folks though. clearly, they exist, and if they exist, we can measure them
This thread (http://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1966) has some good info, though it is confusing and contradictory.
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7bit calls them albino greens, someone says they are mushy, sixty says some nonsense in chinese, and there's something in german about cracking mushrooms (wat). someone take a caliper out and measure the pertinent bits of the key stem. at the very least someone take a series of comparison photos with blue, green and white stems against a metric ruler for each axis...
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Actuation force 65 ± 20 cN apx.
Pressure point force 80 ± 20 cN
Thats what I noticed quoted for the 'New' whites at DT, but it also sounds like there are variants beyond this. Someone needs to provide specs from the supplier, or people will just be speculating until they arrive.
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I just got an email that incorrectly says that I would need to pay even as it shows the payment amount:
Order-ID |Description | Price|Qty|Pcs| Total
MXBROWN |MX brown plate mount switch (0.45 EUR) | 0.60|100|100| 60.00
PHISOWINCLEARKIT|Teensy/PCB/ISOWin plate/MX clear with stabs|136.00| 2| 2| 272.00
PHISOWINREDKIT |Teensy/PCB/ISOWin plate/MX red with stabs |136.00| 1| 1| 136.00
SHIPEU |Shipping costs within EU(17 EUR) | 22.00| 1| 1| 22.00
Sum |before fees | | |104| 490.00
PAYEUR |EUR bank payment | 0%| | | 0.00
Total | | | |104| 490.00
Payments | | | | |-490.00
Amount Due | | | | | 490.00
Edit: and another one
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I just got an email that incorrectly says that I would need to pay even as it shows the payment amount:
...
Edit: and another one
And you hopefully got a 3rd one by now, which looks like this:
Order-ID |Description | Price|Qty|Pcs| Total
MXBROWN |MX brown plate mount switch (0.45 EUR) | 0.60|100|100| 60.00
PHISOWINCLEARKIT|Teensy/PCB/ISOWin plate/MX clear with stabs|136.00| 2| 2| 272.00
PHISOWINREDKIT |Teensy/PCB/ISOWin plate/MX red with stabs |136.00| 1| 1| 136.00
SHIPEU |Shipping costs within EU(17 EUR) | 22.00| 1| 1| 22.00
Sum |before fees | | |104| 490.00
PAYEUR |EUR bank payment | 0%| | | 0.00
Total | | | |104| 490.00
Payments | | | | |-490.00
Amount Due | | | | | 0.00
Everything has been paid up to the penny!
Please order more to make it worth to do another payment!!!!
Thank you for your order!
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7bit calls them albino greens, someone says they are mushy, sixty says some nonsense in chinese, and there's something in german about cracking mushrooms (wat). someone take a caliper out and measure the pertinent bits of the key stem. at the very least someone take a series of comparison photos with blue, green and white stems against a metric ruler for each axis...
Albino greens resulted from a Chinese to English translation.
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Invoice spam, lol.
-
I like being reminded I don't owe anything lol
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If all the parts come and we end up waiting for the switches I'm going to kill 7bit!!!!
:laser:
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If all the parts come and we end up waiting for the switches I'm going to kill 7bit!!!!
:laser:
I worry that round 4 may do that before you get a chance... poor fella :)
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has 7bit synced with biniaris recently? i'm actually overpaid if you count my recent payments (yay whites dropped in price), but the invoice says otherwise
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If all the parts come and we end up waiting for the switches I'm going to kill 7bit!!!!
:laser: 7bit
Production and delivery takes 4 weeks.
I will order within this week and pay in the next week, once I've got all the money together.
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has 7bit synced with biniaris recently? i'm actually overpaid if you count my recent payments (yay whites dropped in price), but the invoice says otherwise
I would PM 7bit to figure that out. I'm just taking payment not doing anything with invoices.
Quick order update: PCBs have been ordered.
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I would PM 7bit to figure that out. I'm just taking payment not doing anything with invoices.
Quick order update: PCBs have been ordered.
Huzzah @ PCBs!
Yeah I paid you for extra switches, but it didn't update on 7bit. I'd assume the verifying the payment is manual and is probably just not done yet.
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someone sell me there order ^_^
-
A little bird also told me Teensys, costar stabilizers, and pin headers have come in already.
-
someone sell me there order ^_^
We ordered some extra PCBs and I will be getting extra plates as well. We just don't know how we'll be selling those off. Once everyone has their orders we'll post those.
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i'm probably going to be camping for another pcb then, since it looks like i now have nearly 3 phantoms worth of parts but only 2 pcbs. <-- bad news
i'm only keeping one phantom; the other two will be built cased then sold off <-- good news?
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i'm probably going to be camping for another pcb then, since it looks like i now have nearly 3 phantoms worth of parts but only 2 pcbs. <-- bad news
i'm only keeping one phantom; the other two will be built cased then sold off <-- good news?
I did that on purpose, so I can try a lowpoly-esque plate 'build.
Bytheway, I'm so glad I decided to get three teensy's.
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lowpoly-esque plate build? eh?
-
Just posted a video to demonstrate how to open up a Filco. Enjoy!
[video=youtube;AfPaC8Hvczo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfPaC8Hvczo[/video]
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I regret not having jumped this GB :(
How much was PCB+controller+plate? (PHISO e.g.)
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I regret not having jumped this GB :(
How much was PCB+controller+plate? (PHISO e.g.)
$35 + $18 + $15 i believe.
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Oh boy, makes me even more sad :(
-
lowpoly-esque plate build? eh?
Sure: Like Lowpoly's Apple MO110
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:20898
More recently, there was another one, but I forget the name.
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Agree with agor :(
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Sure: Like Lowpoly's Apple MO110
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:20898
More recently, there was another one, but I forget the name.
woah, weird but cool.
that reminds me, i want to pick that dude's brain about trackpoints.
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Oh boy, makes me even more sad :(
If it makes you feel any better, buyers have to provide their own cases, or have purchased one of litster's acrylic cases, neither of which are cheap.
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No it doesn't :D
Probably would have tried a wood casing of some sort
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Doesn't help me either :)
-
Lots of options to make your own though (within that 'provide') that are neither expensive or require a lot of skill. cardboard, or corrugated plastic both work as a prototype medium, and once you have a functional template, transferring that to 1/4" acrylic isn't hard with basic hand tool knowledge.
the shop near me that i'm buying the plastic from in the first place is willing to take cad/sketch-up drawings and laser cut the acrylic so long as i buy it from them.
Nice, I might try to do something similar. What are they charging you for the materials and cutting?
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i'm up for working on an open case design with folks, since i will be doing something similar. haven't decided on material yet, but leaning toward milled aluminum
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part of me wants to see how straight i can cut it myself using a router and jig.
straight enough for government work but not enough for enthusiast work. acrylic is a ***** to cut. it melts, a lot.
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I was wondering woulds my special plate even work? The concern is the F row. lootbag brought this up to me so i thought that i would check because he couldnt spot the places for the switches on the PCB and non of the other layouts have it. I forgot what template i used to make my layout but i want to make sure that its even possible.
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If someone has a spare
TEENSY
PHANTOM
PHISOWIN
Drop me a PM please :(
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Is anyone else getting repeated messages from email9@... claiming that you haven't paid, when you have? Who do we write to to clear this mess up?
I would also like an extra TEENSY controller. I guess I updated my order too late. Anyone?
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There is a JavaScript embedded on the first page of this thread from moneytraders.biz. Looks fishy.
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Did anyone check if the PLU M-87 case fits?
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There is a JavaScript embedded on the first page of this thread from moneytraders.biz. Looks fishy.
Definitely PM iMav about this.
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Did anyone check if the PLU M-87 case fits?
Yes. I forget who, but they got 3 from qtan, and affirmed filco compatibility. It was kind-of awesome.
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Is anyone else getting repeated messages from email9@... claiming that you haven't paid, when you have? Who do we write to to clear this mess up?
I would also like an extra TEENSY controller. I guess I updated my order too late. Anyone?
I only get updates from time to time. If you paid, just ignore them.
It is not like regular spam mail. In the end it will stop by itself and you get your keyboard or switches or whatever you ordered.
Extra TEENSY: This had been messed up. Not my fault that there where too few ordered.
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Is anyone else getting repeated messages from email9@... claiming that you haven't paid, when you have? Who do we write to to clear this mess up?
I would also like an extra TEENSY controller. I guess I updated my order too late. Anyone?
You paid $173.49 as of Feb 21st. If you made changes after we are closed and after you paid, then that is expected. You haven't paid for the items you added after we are closed, have you? Does the new amount match the new items you ordered after we are closed?
Did I mention we are closed, we are not taking orders anymore?
If you need a teensy, you need to order one yourself directly from the vendor. Sorry.
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Yes. I forget who, but they got 3 from qtan, and affirmed filco compatibility. It was kind-of awesome.
That was TheProfosist. From looking at pictures of PLU, it appears that PLU's case is very similar to Filco's case. No one has said that they put a Filco case side-by-side with a PLU case and said that they are exactly the same, or no on has put a Filco innards into a PLU case or vis versa to confirm they are perfect match.
They may as well be the same, but no one has "checked" as far as I am concerned. Use the information at your own risk.
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That was TheProfosist. From looking at pictures of PLU, it appears that PLU's case is very similar to Filco's case. No one has said that they put a Filco case side-by-side with a PLU case and said that they are exactly the same, or no on has put a Filco innards into a PLU case or vis versa to confirm they are perfect match.
They may as well be the same, but no one has "checked" as far as I am concerned. Use the information at your own risk.
I bought based on measurements as they were exact so i didnt se a reason why they wouldnt fit. I tried getting people eho have bothe to do the swap temporarily but they all declined.
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i suspect the PLU case will fit more or less -- the fixation screw may be out of place (like the quickfire case). however, atm i think the quickfire case is quite a bit cheaper.
ps, lister: do you have an estimate on shipment times yet, or are we still waiting to hear back from 7bit's switch suppliers? i'm debating picking up a quickfire to use to make case measurements and do prototyping with... but if the boards are showing up in the next month or so i'll just wait.
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On the States side, BiNiaRiS has ordered everything except the digikey parts (or maybe he ordered them already), and me making another 40 7x stabilizer bars. BiNiaRiS will receive the PCBs in 2 weeks or so. I will need to send him all the 7x stabilizer bars that I will make. Then he will sort and send the EU orders to 7bit. Potentially, BiNiaRiS could send out orders that do not have switches. Otherwise we have to wait for 7bit to order the switches, wait for delivery to him, and then have him sort and send all the switches for non EU orders to BiNiaRiS. Then when BiNiaRiS receives the switches, he will need to sort them and pack all the parts and send them out. I think it will be at least 2 months from now.
Also, I don't think Quickfire's case will fit. The holes are at different places due partly to the removable cable and the cable gutters on the bottom case.
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ok thanks. i'll hold off.
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On the States side, BiNiaRiS has ordered everything except the digikey parts (or maybe he ordered them already), and me making another 40 7x stabilizer bars. BiNiaRiS will receive the PCBs in 2 weeks or so. I will need to send him all the 7x stabilizer bars that I will make. Then he will sort and send the EU orders to 7bit. Potentially, BiNiaRiS could send out orders that do not have switches. Otherwise we have to wait for 7bit to order the switches, wait for delivery to him, and then have him sort and send all the switches for non EU orders to BiNiaRiS. Then when BiNiaRiS receives the switches, he will need to sort them and pack all the parts and send them out. I think it will be at least 2 months from now.
Also, I don't think Quickfire's case will fit. The holes are at different places due partly to the removable cable and the cable gutters on the bottom case.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kQ83_4RdkA#t=1m5s
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Coulds someone please tell me whether or not there are 2 extra switch spots on the PCB in the F row or not?
-
I am not sure what you are asking for. Did you take a look at the PCB picture on the first post?
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I am not sure what you are asking for. Did you take a look at the PCB picture on the first post?
yes i did but am confused about the possible layout. my question is is the f row normal or can it be squished and add 2 keys? I think there is enough mounting holes to make it work but am un sure as i am the only one so far that has planned on using those.
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It is still unclear to me exactly *where* on the F row you want to add extra keys. By F row do you mean the ASDF row, or the Function key row?
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It is still unclear to me exactly *where* on the F row you want to add extra keys. By F row do you mean the ASDF row, or the Function key row?
The row with F1-12 i didnt use function because with my layout i have 2 Fn keys sorry.
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OK, progress. Now that we know which row you want to add two keys, where on that row do you want to add two keys?
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OK, progress. Now that we know which row you want to add two keys, where on that row do you want to add two keys?
Well in the row... I counted and there should be enough spaces on the PCB for them and i just looked at the plates and they are on the 7bit and also my modified one. So they are they like i though just had to confirm because lootbag though it wasnt possible for those keys.switches to be in the row.
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Well in the row... I counted and there should be enough spaces on the PCB for them and i just looked at the plates and they are on the 7bit and also my modified one. So they are they like i though just had to confirm because lootbag though it wasnt possible for those keys.switches to be in the row.
The PCB has room for essentially 14 F keys like on the 7bit layout. As long as your plate is cut to use those you can use them with no issues.
So:
ESC/F1-F14/Prt Sc/Scroll Lock/Pause
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I don't really know what you want your layout to be. The thing to watch out for is that between F5 and F8, there are 9 switch positions, but you can only have 5 switches in that space physically and electronically. You can also add one switch between Esc and F1. I obviously have not actually tried this. I just looked at the PCB picture.
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The PCB has room for essentially 14 F keys like on the 7bit layout. As long as your plate is cut to use those you can use them with no issues.
So:
ESC/F1-F14/Prt Sc/Scroll Lock/Pause
that what i thought thanks
I don't really know what you want your layout to be. The thing to watch out for is that between F5 and F8, there are 9 switch positions, but you can only have 5 switches in that space physically and electronically. You can also add one switch between Esc and F1. I obviously have not actually tried this. I just looked at the PCB picture.
I came to the same result and as for a layout ine would be the 7bit modified plate. im still working on the layout a bit but it almost down so i can get keycaps made by wasd in time for the phantom to be delivered.
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Not sure if this has been asked before, but will there be any extras available for purchase? I just need the PCB, the teensy, and the plate, although other materials would be cool too.
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I don't really know what you want your layout to be. The thing to watch out for is that between F5 and F8, there are 9 switch positions, but you can only have 5 switches in that space physically and electronically. You can also add one switch between Esc and F1. I obviously have not actually tried this. I just looked at the PCB picture.
LOL!!!
To confirm: It is possible to have 15 function keys, but only the 7BIT mount plate is capable of this. All other mount plates have the mount positions shifted by 0.5 units for F5-F8.
It will not work out of the box, you have to wire some of the function switches to something in the bottom row to get them all work.
Not sure if this has been asked before, but will there be any extras available for purchase? I just need the PCB, the teensy, and the plate, although other materials would be cool too.
There are no Teensys left, only PCB and plates.
And switches!!!
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Chang I think a leftovers sale will happen. Does anyone know if the keycool case is compatible?
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LOL!!!
To confirm: It is possible to have 15 function keys, but only the 7BIT mount plate is capable of this. All other mount plates have the mount positions shifted by 0.5 units for F5-F8.
It will not work out of the box, you have to wire some of the function switches to something in the bottom row to get them all work.
Hey! *grrr* I fixed that for ya! All switch locations are connected to the controller via PCB traces =D
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Hey! *grrr* I fixed that for ya! All switch locations are connected to the controller via PCB traces =D
Thanks!!!!!!!!
I thought they are not working out of the box.
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I am pretty sure I tested all switch locations on the PCB and they are all connected, including locations that I don't care about :-)
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... I added the extra switch locations to the function row that 7bit requested. Had to ditch the helper-holes for F5-F8 (who is going to hot swap their F-key stems anyway?). Did some icky rerouting and got all switches attached to the electrical wiring. So no jumper wires will be necessary (the logical matrix locations of the extra two keys are a bit off though).
I love you!
Thanks!!!!!!!!
I thought they are not working out of the box.
Get your stuff together ;o) From the controller logics view they are located in the spacebar row, but they are hooked up to it.
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There are no Teensys left, only PCB and plates.
And switches!!!
When the extras are available for purchase will they be available in a new thread or still this original thread? I'm interested in a 7bit plate, PCB, maybe some switches.
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I keep getting invoiced for bills I have already paid. Who do I need to talk to in order to get this fixed?
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I keep getting invoiced for bills I have already paid. Who do I need to talk to in order to get this fixed?
Just ignore them
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I would like 1 plate and pcb if possible. =)
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Im glad i dont have to use wires for the 7bit. Is a working firmware going to be available right away?
Also has anyone gotten layer working in the firmware yet?
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It should be very simple to change the table in the source code to build a firmware version for this layout. It should be less than 5 minutes if I know what you want at each of your switch locations.
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But knowing what I want under each switch is the hardest part!
I suspect I'll be happy starting with a "normal" Dvorak layout, then adding and changing things until I'm happy. The ease of teensy makes all of this possible.
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It's very easy to add layers to the layout. It can probably be done in some smart way, but the straightforward way of just checking "is my modifier pressed" before selecting which keypresses to send is no problem to get working.
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i will make all the things configurable when i get my teensy and board and am able to test code
i suspect i can do mousekeys and usb nkro too, whoever was asking for it.
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Great to hear on all of this cant wait to get my hands on these now any idea on how long till their shipped out?
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Great to hear on all of this cant wait to get my hands on these now any idea on how long till their shipped out?
like 6+ weeks it sounds like.
ps, did you send those springs? NEED MOAR GHETTO GREEN
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Does anyone have any idea how a Mac (OSX) will see these keyboards? Will we need to specially program the TEENSY, or what?
Also, the OP changed! What is with the Phantom Keys? Is this another SP DS GB I need to get involved with? ;-P
Speaking of which, could someone post a list of what is still available for order? From the hodgepodge of the last several pages I get the impression that not ALL of this GB is actually "closed". Thanks!
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this gb is basically closed. 7bit is selling a few keys from the extra stock he ordered. that's all that's available right now.
ps, love the sig.
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7bit is selling a few keys from the extra stock he ordered.
What are you talking about? To my knowledge, no one has put in any orders for any key caps with the Phantom logo on them, like we discussed originally. They got dropped from Round 4, too. I think we'll need to put together a separate group buy for them.
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sorry, that should have read "switches", not keys.
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Rumor has it someone received a bunch of PCBs, stabilizers, and pin headers recently.
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yes!!! so close!!!!
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so long pole is switches? we're still about 6-8 weeks out then, as 7bit said it would be 5-6wk lead on switches + international shipping + sorting and domestic shipping.
oh crap. i just realized that i'm going to need a phansi stabilized set. SIGH.
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You know we want pics, right? :D
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Glad to see this group buy is chugging along. I have a pile of switches and keycaps that I am just dieing to use.
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I forgot who was making the 7x spacebar springs but would he/she be able to make me a 6x one?
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I forgot who was making the 7x spacebar springs but would he/she be able to make me a 6x one?
Let me check with her and tell her that you want it to be shorter. ;-)
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Let me check with her and tell her that you want it to be shorter. ;-)
do you need me to measure the one that I have for this keyboard and/or send you a picture?
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Aren't you doing a 7bit layout? Are there holes cut on the plate to install stabilizer clips?
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Aren't you doing a 7bit layout? Are there holes cut on the plate to install stabilizer clips?
Not for 7bit its for http://tinyurl.com/7wsqgs9 as its springs are currently thinner than paper clips
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Rumor has it someone received a bunch of PCBs, stabilizers, and pin headers recently.
I got this nasty feelings our switches is going to be late.
I eyeing you 7bit!
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Not for 7bit its for http://tinyurl.com/7wsqgs9 as its springs are currently thinner than paper clips
I could do it later. But right now, I need to make another 40 7x stabilizer bars first. Also, the bar's thickness needs to match the size of arcs on the stabilizer clips on the the mounting plate. If the thinner bar is working fine, a thicker bar will not fit. Costar stabilizer bars should be 3/64" thick.
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(can you make that 41x litster? ;))
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I could do it later. But right now, I need to make another 40 7x stabilizer bars first. Also, the bar's thickness needs to match the size of arcs on the stabilizer clips on the the mounting plate. If the thinner bar is working fine, a thicker bar will not fit. Costar stabilizer bars should be 3/64" thick.
I am replacing the mounting clips with the ones from WASD that is why I need the thicker bar. I paid you right away could you get it done say soon?
EDIT: Never mind the spring is actually the same length and a 6.5x spacebar so I can use one from WASD.
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I looked on the link you posted earlier. It does look like it is 6x, not 6.25x. Really weird.
Actually, I would actually pay someone else to make those 40 stabilizer bars for me if I could. $3 each is lower pay than the poor Chinese village people make at Foxconn's ipad factory. Sorry, you can't pay me enough to make you one, let alone make you one sooner. I will make one for you only because I want to. But later. :-)
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LOL!!!
To confirm: It is possible to have 15 function keys, but only the 7BIT mount plate is capable of this. All other mount plates have the mount positions shifted by 0.5 units for F5-F8.
It will not work out of the box, you have to wire some of the function switches to something in the bottom row to get them all work.
There are no Teensys left, only PCB and plates.
And switches!!!
Awwwwww. Is there anyway to buy teensies anywhere? Im so sad I missed this group buy.
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Seriously? pjrc (http://www.pjrc.com/) the guys that designed and make them.
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Seriously? pjrc (http://www.pjrc.com/) the guys that designed and make them.
Sorry for the dumb question :(
I have another one though :D Which one is it?
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You want Teensy, not Teensy++.
This Phantom instruction wiki page is also helpful, gives you an idea where the Teensy goes on the PCB and how to solder it.
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Instruction
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You want Teensy, not Teensy++.
This Phantom instruction wiki page is also helpful, gives you an idea where the Teensy goes on the PCB and how to solder it.
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Instruction
Oh, I see. Which specific one should I order? Do I need pins or a board?
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Not to be a prick or anything, but did you look at that page he linked? There's pictures, you don't even have to read to answer your question. This is the 2nd time you come across as putting no effort at all into answering your questions.
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Not to be a prick or anything, but did you look at that page he linked? There's pictures, you don't even have to read to answer your question. This is the 2nd time you come across as putting no effort at all into answering your questions.
I did look, but didn't see the part about the two pins. I'm sorry for being dumb :(
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2 pins? You didn't ask a question about 2 pins, you asked whether to order the teensy with pins. By the looks of the pics on that page it's got pins, so you either order it with pins or you put your own pins on. You still need a few more pins because the next picture is of the teensy with 3 additional pins (not standard from PJRC) soldered on.
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2 pins? You didn't ask a question about 2 pins, you asked whether to order the teensy with pins. By the looks of the pics on that page it's got pins, so you either order it with pins or you put your own pins on. You still need a few more pins because the next picture is of the teensy with 3 additional pins (not standard from PJRC) soldered on.
2 pin sets, my bad.
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The teensy has 12 holes on either side, pjrc sells pins as 12x1 or 20x1, this means a single set of 12 pins stuck together or a single set of 20. Since both sides and 3 additional locations need pins (per the assembly pics) then you can either order the board and 2 20x1 pin headers (that way you get extra pins and have the 3 you need at minimal extra cost) or you can order the board with pins already on it and figure out where you're going to get the 3 additional pins you need.
It's like a maze with multiple possible solutions... you just need to determine what 1 possible solution is and go for it. There is no single right answer for a lot of this stuff.
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These came in last week and was too busy to open them up and get a picture.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44364&d=1331861866)
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picture doesnt work bini
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This should work.
(http://deskthority.net/download/file.php?id=2452&sid=cd20a1935d3520d1254953b400f3dfa5)
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Those are some pretty stacks of silicone.
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im sorry. do i post here if i want to buy just switches??
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Will the shipping be via Priority Mail or First class, for international orders?
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im sorry. do i post here if i want to buy just switches??
Group buy is closed. Wait for left over stock in the coming months.
Will the shipping be via Priority Mail or First class, for international orders?
First class. Priority mail is much more expensive.
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If you are new to soldering, here is something that might help, available in many different languages: http://mightyohm.com/blog/2011/04/soldering-is-easy-comic-book/
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If you are new to soldering, here is something that might help, available in many different languages: http://mightyohm.com/blog/2011/04/soldering-is-easy-comic-book/
hah, I love it.
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This should work.
Show Image
(http://deskthority.net/download/file.php?id=2452&sid=cd20a1935d3520d1254953b400f3dfa5)
Whiiiiiiiiii!
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This should work.
Show Image
(http://deskthority.net/download/file.php?id=2452&sid=cd20a1935d3520d1254953b400f3dfa5)
<3
|
<3
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If you are new to soldering, here is something that might help, available in many different languages: http://mightyohm.com/blog/2011/04/soldering-is-easy-comic-book/
Yep, I've read the MightyOhm book: It's goo. For those that prefer video instruction: I really like Tangent's tutorials, He actually uses a $9 Radio-shack iron to prove you don't "need" an expensive one if you're a beginner:
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/
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Yep, I've read the MightyOhm book: It's goo. For those that prefer video instruction: I really like Tangent's tutorials, He actually uses a $9 Radio-shack iron to prove you don't "need" an expensive one if you're a beginner:
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/
For those in the UK (not that are many of us): You can get a 9GBP iron at maplins. But it breaks very easily.
But indeed you do not -need- an expensive iron. Any iron will do. It's just the more expensive ones control temperature nicely, have a nicer tip and maybe a nice stand that goes with it.
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im sorry. do i post here if i want to buy just switches??
To order switches you have to send a message to Phantom:
MXcolor 99
MXothercolor 1000
your e-mail address
Available switch types are:
MXBLACK
MXDARKGREY
MXGREY
MXWHITE
MXCLEAR
MXRED
MXGREEN
MXBLUE
MXBROWN
MXLOCK
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Will the shipping be via Priority Mail or First class, for international orders?
Not yet decided. I wait for shipping costs from Brandon.
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Not yet decided. I wait for shipping costs from Brandon.
If you mean him shipping the pcbs, plates, and other parts to you for the EU orders that you will distribute, yes, that is TBD. For international orders that will be shipped by BiNiaRIS as I assume kaiserreich asked, you should expect they will be shipped via first class mail unless your order is over the 4-pound first class weight limit, then you will need to pay additional shipping cost to either ship you order in 2 separate first class parcels or one priority mail package, which has a higher weight limit.
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So what exactly is the deal with the spare PCBs and plates? Can we just send another message to Phantom with the additions? I'm thinking that I'm actually interested in building another Phantom and replacing one of my lesser boards, since I'll have enough switches and a case.
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If you mean him shipping the pcbs, plates, and other parts to you for the EU orders that you will distribute, yes, that is TBD. For international orders that will be shipped by BiNiaRIS as I assume kaiserreich asked, you should expect they will be shipped via first class mail unless your order is over the 4-pound first class weight limit, then you will need to pay additional shipping cost to either ship you order in 2 separate first class parcels or one priority mail package, which has a higher weight limit.
I mean international shipping to our customers.
Is cheaper from me or from BiNiaRIS?
From Germany: $55, or 42 EUR.
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It is definitely cheaper if we ship from the USA using first class parcel mail, especially if the order weights under 4 pounds. Up to 4 pounds, first class parcel mail should be between $25 to $35. Some destination countries are more expensive. If over 4 pounds, We will need to ask for more payment in order to ship using Priority Mail.
After everyone has received their orders (no bad or missing parts, or lost packages) and if we have parts left, then we will sell the remaining parts.
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It is definitely cheaper if we ship from the USA using first class parcel mail, especially if the order weights under 4 pounds. Up to 4 pounds, first class parcel mail should be between $25 to $35. Some destination countries are more expensive. If over 4 pounds, We will need to ask for more payment in order to ship using Priority Mail.
After everyone has received their orders (no bad or missing parts, or lost packages) and if we have parts left, then we will sell the remaining parts.
Hm.. up to 2 kilos is 16,90 worldwide from germany
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I mean international shipping to our customers.
Is cheaper from me or from BiNiaRIS?
From Germany: $55, or 42 EUR.
It is definitely cheaper if we ship from the USA using first class parcel mail, especially if the order weights under 4 pounds. Up to 4 pounds, first class parcel mail should be between $25 to $35. Some destination countries are more expensive. If over 4 pounds, We will need to ask for more payment in order to ship using Priority Mail.
After everyone has received their orders (no bad or missing parts, or lost packages) and if we have parts left, then we will sell the remaining parts.
I did not order any switches (have a lot of them), so whatever I ordered can be shipped from Biniaris if needed.
Anyway, I paid $55 for shipping based on the invoice amount.
Based on the USPS shipping calculator, 4lbs. cost $30 + (Packaging material cost) to ship to me (1st class mail)
I know that shipping cost varies based on destination, and the invoice shipping cost amount is to cover for most possibilities without needing to go into micromanaging each shipping amount, which is perfectly fine and acceptable as far as I am concerned.
I also do not intend to barge into how you guys are running this group buy (which I think you all did a very good job by the way) and demand a whole explanation into this, but I'd like to know where does this leave me?
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Hm.. up to 2 kilos is 16,90 worldwide from germany
But not insured!
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But not insured!
first class from US is not insured either...
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Can we have a status update on this group buy? I suspect it would be little more than "Still waiting on switches", but even that is better than letting this thread hit the second page :(
Also, any chance that those of use who already have our switches could get our PCBs and plates sent to us (I think those have come in already??) I only ordered a handful of switches and would be willing to pay for shipping twice if it means having my phantom early.
Well, either way, keep up the good work!
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switches won't come in until late may
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I would avoid shipping multiple times for a single order due to addition labor involved. BiNiaRiS and 7bit will be doing shipping. It would be up to them. If you didn't order switches at all, then BiNiaRiS should be able to ship your order out sooner, as soon as plates, electronic parts, and my 7x stabilizers are ordered or made. BiNiaRiS has been busy with non-keyboard stuff the last couple of weeks. I am sure he will be getting the rest of the order done soon, and he will still be ahead of the switches. :-)
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I would avoid shipping multiple times for a single order due to addition labor involved. BiNiaRiS and 7bit will be doing shipping. It would be up to them. If you didn't order switches at all, then BiNiaRiS should be able to ship your order out sooner, as soon as plates, electronic parts, and my 7x stabilizers are ordered or made. BiNiaRiS has been busy with non-keyboard stuff the last couple of weeks. I am sure he will be getting the rest of the order done soon, and he will still be ahead of the switches. :-)
7-bit!!!! I knew it!!! :yell:
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Been making more 7x costar stabilizer bars today. So I figured I would make a video to show you all how to make one yourself if you need to. I can make one in about 5 minutes now.
[video=youtube;zry3CHNKgT8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zry3CHNKgT8[/video]
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What a professional
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woah, that's cool. thanks for the video!
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Been making more 7x costar stabilizer bars today. So I figured I would make a video to show you all how to make one yourself if you need to. I can make one in about 5 minutes now.
Nice =) You never considered actually mounting the bender to your workbench? That looks trickier than necessary.
Edit: Ok, so I read the answer to that in the other thread... Anyhow, it is cool how the video keeps running while quoting, and submitting to the thread =)
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I lol'd at "mounting the bender"
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Just so you guys know, since these are made by hand, by me, they are not all exactly the same. The good thing is I found out the Costar stabilizers are actually pretty forgiving. I have tried a few stabilizers I made that are slightly different in length maybe by 1 to 1.5mm. They all work well. It will work better if you have some lube that you can apply to all the contact points to make it smoother.
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This picture needs more stabilizer bars. Someone is getting that last one.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]46894[/ATTACH]
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lollll
i guess i couldn't get you to make me an extra at this point could i :P
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why do you need an extra one?
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iirc i didn't order a first set of phansi stabs since my phansi plate order came after the deadline. if it's too much trouble to make an extra 7x for me though, i can make my own with a set of pliers or something; no worries.
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Remind BiNi to send you one with you order. If not I can send you one. I will be making extras.
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awesome, thanks!
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Anyone have any idea if fengs acrylic case fits the phantom i suspect it does because it fits a plu and fiilco.
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You mean the one that is blatantly copied from my design?
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You mean the one that is blatantly copied from my design?
I'd be happy to buy a Litster original, but you won't make me one. :P
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Lets be honest, it's not a patch on yours mate.
Take it as a compliment.
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Yeah, it's obvious the design is straight off you... but there's no artistry at all. I bet it creaks like hell since it's not bolted together.
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I've been shenzhened! :-)
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=16579040986&
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imitation is the sincerest something something? take it as a compliment for now i guess.. ;)
Sent from ripster's phone using Tapatalk...
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I know its a LONG SHOT but if anyone changes their mind about keeping their phantom when it gets to them, I'm looking for one. I'm as excited as you guys but wanted to place an order the day after the deadline, sadly, and missed out. Interested in browns/reds!
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i will be selling at least one of my constructed units
Sent from ripster's phone using Tapatalk...
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i will be selling at least one of my constructed units
Sent from ripster's phone using Tapatalk...
PM sent :) don't want to clutter this thread with personal stuff.
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I don't know if it's copied from you litster. :( if so that makes me feel bad.
A friend of mine who loves keyboards a lot in China asked me whether I'm interested in the Korean Custom Acrylic cases few days ago, and he can ask MKC to make some. He got a design drawing of the Korean crylic case from probably some Korean guys and send it to MKC.
We three people (including another crazy keyboardlover who also comes to GH) were about to ask MKC to make 3 clear cases just for us. And then I think probably yesterday MKC was bringing this clear acrylic case to the market. He contacted me later last night asking about my interest doing the group buys for the case.
MKC said he took a look on the Korean design drawing, but it turned out it can't be used at all. Because the cover is kinda too high. And it's smaller than our regular 87 tenkeyless keyboards. It also includes 13 screws.
Finally MKC designed a new clear case as shown in my group buy. I really don't wanna make the people who originally designed the acrylic case feel uncomfortable. Just trying to explain a bit more on this.
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As far as I know, there has not been any other acrylic cases made to work with Filco before my design. This one has all the design cues from my acrylic case design: 6 layers, thick back to accommodate Filco's USB connector, the area between the arrow cluster and the 6-pack, and the cut out for the 4th layer. Whoever made it saw my case either in person or though pictures of my case disassembled. It is pretty obvious that it is a copy of my design.
We three people (including another crazy keyboardlover...
you don't mean the keyboardlover we have on GH, do you? he bought an acrylic case from me.
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What's the relationship between your acrylic case and the Korean custom acrylic case? I have to say MKC's acrylic case must has something to do with yours. Even though he changed some parts (like changing 6 layers to 2 layers), it's still seems similar to your design.
By the keyboardlover, I didn't mean the person named "keyboardlover" on GH. I meant laggy-gaga. As you might know. He's a Chinese and lives in Auatralia.
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laggy-gaga bought 3 from me. One was sent to China.
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Most of the switches arrived!
The other still need to be produced.
I will post pictures later. So far I found clears, blues and greys.
I will start sorting switches over the upcomming week-end, so please get your changes in if you want to change any quantities.
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Most of the switches arrived!
The other still need to be produced.
I will post pictures later. So far I found clears, blues and greys.
I will start sorting switches over the upcomming week-end, so please get your changes in if you want to change any quantities.
Switch lolrus goes "Where is mah Blues bukkit?!"
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Nice! That's earlier than expected!
BiNiaRiS! Calling BiNiaRiS! Your switches are looking for you!
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What are the chances of finding a MX Clear board on Ebay? I’ve been searching, but haven’t found anything… :-/
Anyway, I might want to get my hands on some Clears. Still stock left?
Another edit: I guess I’ll just try, 7bit can still chastise me after I crashed his bot.
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Needs moar greens
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awesome shipment is awesome
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Looking good! I want to buy even more switches while it's an option, but I'm not sure which ones...
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Looking forward to trying out the more exotic switches (whites and locking).
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Needs moar greens and LOCK switches
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Any update on a shipment date for this GB?
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7bit is about to send switches for non EU orders to BiNiaRiS soon. That should take 2 - 3 weeks. Need to check with BiNiaRiS on where he is at. I made 60 7x stabilizers last night. I will be sending them to BiNiaRiS tomorrow.
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are green and white switches still coming in in may or has 7bit gotten those already?
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Whiskerbox made me this cable based on my suggestion. It works on Filco case perfectly. On my acrylic case I need to make a small modification. This is a prototype. Whiskerbox will be making changes to it to make it even better. But as it is now, the cable is held in place very well.
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48228&d=1334376144)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48229&d=1334376146)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48230&d=1334376148)
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48231&d=1334376150)
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orings + heat shrink? i like that solution :)
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A quick update. 7bit should be receiving the rest of the switches in 2 to 3 weeks. Electronic parts should be arriving at BiNiaRiS this week. And he is still working on the plates.
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Green switches!!!!! I should have ordered more :(
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Are the switches shipping to US soon? 3 days will be 3 weeks from the last update. :D
It's hard to not get a little impatient (from excitement not upset) after 4 months. :P
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Last I heard from 7bit, he should be receiving switches very soon. BiNiaRiS told me that the plates are cut. Some have "hanging chads" after cut, so he is manually removing them one by one.
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I always thought Chad needed a good hanging...
Now I need to figure out where soldering Phantoms fits into my calendar. hmmmm
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i for one distinctly remember voting for charlie, not chad
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Sweet! THANKS! :D
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So whats with the invoice i just got that says more money is needed?
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I think BiNiaRiS is still working through the paypal emails. I just got an invoice that finally shows a payment I made two months ago, but doesn't include the one I made last week. I hope this doesn't hold things up too much...
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I also got a notification, thinking it was a status update for shipping.
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If your invoice says you still owe money, that means we were unable to match your payments to your invoice. Either you have not paid in full, your shipping cost has increased, or you paid with paypal but didn't inlcude correct information to identity your payments to your phantom order.
If you know you have paid in full to match the amount in the invoice you just received, but the invoice says you still need to pay, please PM me with all your Paypal transactions related to your phantom order so we can double check.
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Also got a new invoice payment, but just paid it :)
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Also got a new invoice payment, but just paid it :)
I am not sure if you mean you just paid in full but still got a new invoice that says you have not paid in full (i.e. we have something to resolve), or if you just got a new invoice but you paid up immediately and is now paid in full (i.e. all is good).
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Mine is for an additional $25. Could shipping have increased that much?
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I worked it out. I shouldn't have paid it actually. I got some stuff for 7bit but I said I'd take payment in switches.
I'll let him know and see if just discounting against round 4 will be easiest for everyone. :)
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Everything has been paid up to the penny!
;)
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I'm actually overpaid by 21 cents...how can I go about getting a refund?(!)
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If you paid too much and want to use your money for Round 4, please send to Phantom:
ROUND4
^^^ one word, no blank between ROUND and 4 !!!
I will start shipping swiches on Tuesday!
Please make sure you shipping addresses are OK!
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Sorry, that was just sarcasm. I guess the sarcas-o-bang "(!)" hasn't reached that far yet. :)
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Sorry, that was just sarcasm. I guess the sarcas-o-bang "(!)" hasn't reached that far yet. :)
LOL! My post was not a response to yours, just coincidence. I did not even read it before I came back today.
:-)
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Whats the progress on this any prospecive date of shipment?
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Whats the progress on this any prospecive date of shipment?
Switches are there and I'm still packing and ship them all this week (except those I will ship along with the other Phantom parts).
I'm not sure what is missing.
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Any left overs*k
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Any left overs*k
None. There will be another switch group buy starting next week.
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I really regret not participating in this group buy.
I look forward to seeing the final products.
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I really regret not participating in this group buy.
I look forward to seeing the final products.
there might be extra plates and PCBs!
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If there is an extra ANSI winkeyless plate (PHANSI), I will buy one.
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oh, yeah. money for shipping has been sent.
mine and tsangan's switches to alaric
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there might be extra plates and PCBs!
Once everything has shipped, there might be a few.
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Once everything has shipped, there might be a few.
Can we place dibs?
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I'd take any layout, ANSI or 7BIT would be preferred options.
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I'd love to buy a ISO 1.25 unit plate and PCB if any remain after you've shipped stuff.
Seriously regret not joining in earlier!
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I'd love to buy a ISO 1.25 unit plate and PCB if any remain after you've shipped stuff.
Seriously regret not joining in earlier!
It's worse for those of us who didn't realize what a great opportunity this was until it was too late (and only bought switches instead). I'm waking up with a feeling of regret in my chest ever since this group buy closed. Nah, it's not that bad, but it doesn't feel good at all!
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I only bought switches too. Knew of the group buy, didn't actually join in :(
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I ordered 3 extra PCBs for myself. Because I have 1 Filco tenkeyless ANSI mounting plate, 1 full size ANSI plate, and 1 full size ISO plate lying around making nobody happy. The PCBs will fit either tenkeyless/full size plate. The full size plate needs to be a little modified to fit the tenkeyless case though. Some holes need to be drilled. I also ordered Teensys for them. And switches.. Diodes I have plenty at home...
I bought the extras to make programmable keyboards for lending out to friends. But I can certainly picture myself selling them off. But I would like to get rid of some of the switches as well in that case =)
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PrinsValium: I'll probably take one !
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Oh, then we're "only bought switches and regretting we didn't buy the rest" brothers!
Worst thing is I'll probably be away without Internet access when the leftovers will be put up here. Frustrating!
Prins, you should sell one to a compatriot! ;)
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I may have promised a German guy a PCB, Sweden (I would think, fruktstund?) would be an easy shipping, and then there is one more, Djuzuh perhaps..
I could try to drill the mounting plate holes. It requires some degree of accuracy, I have nice tools to do it with but still. And I think I ordered black, blue and brown switches, but I'm not sure at all =)
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Any chance you can share who you used to do the metal plate fabrication? I'm having the hardest time finding anyone who is even close to the price that you guys managed to get it for.
Also, nice job on the pcbs. Likewise inexpensive for the size and quantity.
Red
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Any chance you can share who you used to do the metal plate fabrication? I'm having the hardest time finding anyone who is even close to the price that you guys managed to get it for.
I wouldn't mind knowing this either, I'd like to get some aluminium sheeting milled. I guess one of the big issues though is quantity. Orders of just a one, or a couple of pieces are more expensive, I don't know by how much though.
Also wouldn't mind knowing who fabricated the PCBs.
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I wouldn't mind knowing this either, I'd like to get some aluminium sheeting milled. I guess one of the big issues though is quantity. Orders of just a one, or a couple of pieces are more expensive, I don't know by how much though.
Also wouldn't mind knowing who fabricated the PCBs.
PCB's were done by pcbwing.com. It says so on the screen printing. Maybe we can organize a "Round 2" group buy for some more Phantoms, for those of us who are new and missed out on the original GB?
I found a place locally which will cut the plates from 1/16" 6061 aluminum for $52 for one piece. I can ask about volume pricing if there is interest. Cutting is done using a water jet machine, so there is no set-up cost.
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PCB's were done by pcbwing.com. It says so on the screen printing. Maybe we can organize a "Round 2" group buy for some more Phantoms, for those of us who are new and missed out on the original GB?
I found a place locally which will cut the plates from 1/16" 6061 aluminum for $52 for one piece. I can ask about volume pricing if there is interest. Cutting is done using a water jet machine, so there is no set-up cost.
Wouldn't it be more interesting to come up with a more awesome project? :D.
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Wouldn't it be more interesting to come up with a more awesome project? :D.
Which is exactly what they are already planning. :)
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?26751-Next-GH-brewed-KB-design-The-Light-%28open-for-discussion%29
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PCB's were done by pcbwing.com. It says so on the screen printing. Maybe we can organize a "Round 2" group buy for some more Phantoms, for those of us who are new and missed out on the original GB?
I found a place locally which will cut the plates from 1/16" 6061 aluminum for $52 for one piece. I can ask about volume pricing if there is interest. Cutting is done using a water jet machine, so there is no set-up cost.
I wonder how much it'd be to cut out a ergoDOX case?
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I wonder how much it'd be to cut out a ergoDOX case?
Water jet cannot make depth cuts, only cutouts in flat material (of pretty much any type). :(
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If you look in the ergoDox thread, it's a series of flat plates stacked together.
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Oh, well, in that case, I'm sure they could do it easily. I can contact them, or get you the contact information and provide local support. I/they will probably just need the .dxf files for the cuts to be made, and information about material type and thickness, as well as the quantity required.
If you want to move this discussion to the ErgoDOX thread, we can talk about it there.
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So, I have electronics design and hardware prototyping experience.
How can I help you?
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So, I have electronics design and hardware prototyping experience.
How can I help you?
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?26751-Next-GH-brewed-KB-design-The-Light-%28open-for-discussion%29
also: http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:19227&do=comments&page=18
basically, we're sorely lacking PCB designers, particularly with SMT experience.
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http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?26751-Next-GH-brewed-KB-design-The-Light-%28open-for-discussion%29
also: http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:19227&do=comments&page=18
basically, we're sorely lacking PCB designers, particularly with SMT experience.
Actually Prins and I have gotten round playing with SMT pads for the PCB design, it's more of knowing how to order a board with MC/Diode preassembled.
My main issue is I lack time for now. __red__ If you want to help. I want to test/verify that the following schematic/concept works:
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?26751-Next-GH-brewed-KB-design-The-Light-(open-for-discussion)&p=508524&viewfull=1#post508524
Check if we can bias them correctly and that having fast switching between the columns can still mean that the LEDs are bright enough.
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I can't see the schematic from here because I'm on Tapatalk.
If you're worried about maintaining led scan rates with you microcontroller, you can always offload it to an led matrix ic like the max7221.
64 LEDs, speaks i2c and it's one less ball to juggle in firmware.
Btw, Austrian semi (I think) has a really cheap max7221 clone.
Of course, if you require pwm there are ICs that can do that too.
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I have now seen the schematic. What an interesting idea! I keep staring at it looking for problems but I don't see any.
It needs to be protoboarded. Let me see what I can do.
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Looks like it could work, at least for on/off per LED. It might even be feasible to get overall brightness control by varying the duration of the LEDROW pulses - instead of connecting each LEDROW transistor's emitter to ground, add in one extra transistor whose emitter is grounded and connect all the LEDROW transistors to its collector. Then drive it from a PWM (preferably running very fast so you don't have to synchronise it with the rest of the scanning).
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Imagine connecting 12 or so of these (http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TPIC6B595DWRG4/?qs=DalLdME0ZxyRUpR7s8EKzWGtmCWNWEyu) in series. Shouldn't take even a ms to update them all. Then PWM as many of them that the USB port can handle at a time =) PWM can run from a IC separate from the controller as well. Double the hang up-burn-a-row-of-diodes-bug-protection...
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Looks like it could work, at least for on/off per LED. It might even be feasible to get overall brightness control by varying the duration of the LEDROW pulses - instead of connecting each LEDROW transistor's emitter to ground, add in one extra transistor whose emitter is grounded and connect all the LEDROW transistors to its collector. Then drive it from a PWM (preferably running very fast so you don't have to synchronise it with the rest of the scanning).
Thats the main thing I like. But, i'm worried because the time an LED is "ON" is maximum only 1/numCol.
Imagine connecting 12 or so of these (http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TPIC6B595DWRG4/?qs=DalLdME0ZxyRUpR7s8EKzWGtmCWNWEyu) in series. Shouldn't take even a ms to update them all. Then PWM as many of them that the USB port can handle at a time =) PWM can run from a IC separate from the controller as well. Double the hang up-burn-a-row-of-diodes-bug-protection...
This is probably the simplest solution, serial the LED data out of the MC and have the shift registers drive the LEDs. We don't get to play with PWM tho.
Anyway, this is the phantom gb page. If we want to discuss this one, lets move it back to the appropriate thread:
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?26751-Next-GH-brewed-KB-design-The-Light-%28open-for-discussion%29 (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?26751-Next-GH-brewed-KB-design-The-Light-%28open-for-discussion%29)
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7bit, any idea approximately when surplus PCBs and plates are likely to be (possibly) available?
Also, on the ErgoDOX front, I might be able to help out a bit, I've some experience with PCB design (particularly relating to driving LEDs actually), though I don't have a lot of time to commit.
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If/When there is left over PCBs and plates, we will announce it on this thread. It will probably be a couple months after all the parts are shipped out to buyers.
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Awesome, thanks, I had no idea of timeframe!
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I packed most packages (full with switches) for US orders and will bring them to the post office tomorrow.
:-)
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I swear 7bit, you're a machine. So many group buys on the go at once! :P
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Damn I missed this one too!
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I swear 7bit, you're a machine. So many group buys on the go at once! :P
Without my machine and some pieces of software, it would be impossible!
The worst thing about the switches was not packing them into bags for each order, but packing them into boxes and making sure that they weight less than 1kg.
I had to halve and take the guts out of keyboard boxes I got from Ascaii and then tape them close. I've one package which is slightly over the limit, so I've got to open it and throw some of its contents out.
:-(
The EU order will be plain sailing. Just pack everything in and don't think about weight or customs.
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Ouch! How did you count them? There were thousands!
On that note how on Earth will you sort the doubleshot keycaps? The quantity of those is crazy...
Dispatched from the EU eh?
Well, that makes ordering leftovers even more tempting, I'm from the UK, customs fees are horrible.
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Man, If this groupbuy doesn't come to fruition soon, I may end up buying even more keyboard stuff... This bodes Ill for my wallet.
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Could you give us another status overview? (just came back from a long holiday trip)
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Ouch! How did you count them? There were thousands!
On that note how on Earth will you sort the doubleshot keycaps? The quantity of those is crazy...
Dispatched from the EU eh?
Well, that makes ordering leftovers even more tempting, I'm from the UK, customs fees are horrible.
By weight. I've counted 100 of each box manually and the rest by weight.
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Could you give us another status overview? (just came back from a long holiday trip)
Most backeages asre packed. I ship all remaining order this week (except for those with Phantom stuff).
I hope to get the plates PCB etc this or next week.
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Ugh, I hope my payment went through for this, the bot keeps telling me i have 5 cents due but when I pay it it still keeps nagging me :d.
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Ugh, I hope my payment went through for this, the bot keeps telling me i have 5 cents due but when I pay it it still keeps nagging me :d.
Please don't pay $0.05 !!!
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Please don't pay $0.05 !!!
Please send 100 individual payments of: $0.05 to... I kid. Paypal would probably eat up any payment that is less than $0.50
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Please send 100 individual payments of: $0.05 to... I kid. Paypal would probably eat up any payment that is less than $0.50
The limit is $5 where it says:
Please order more to make it worth to do another payment!!!!
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I am looking for PCB's if anyone might have ordered extra. Hit me up with a PM if you do.
Much appreciated.
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Can we just pretend I paid the 5 cents? :D Or will I get a pretend phantom... >.<
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Update! Parts on BiNiaRiS' side are all procured and received. BiNiaRiS was able to get the plates anodized in black without additional cost, which is pretty amazing! Kudos to BiNi! There is still a lot of sorting work to do.
We still have to figure out how to get parts shipped across the pond.
Slueth, don't worry about the 5 cents :-).
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Update! Parts on BiNiaRiS' side are all procured and received. BiNiaRiS was able to get the plates anodized in black without additional cost, which is pretty amazing! Kudos to BiNi! There is still a lot of sorting work to do.
We still have to figure out how to get parts shipped across the pond.
Slueth, don't worry about the 5 cents :-).
very exciting... but also frustrating to know the parts are just a short drive away, and now they have to travel half way around the world and back before i can have them.
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BiNiaRiS needs help to sort and pack parts. I plan to drive to Portland next week to help him. Anyone wants to come over to help? We can have a Phantom party and you can take your orders with you when you leave! You can also check out BiNi's collection.
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I would totally be up for that if I were even remotely close...
Get hype.
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Update! Parts on BiNiaRiS' side are all procured and received. BiNiaRiS was able to get the plates anodized in black without additional cost, which is pretty amazing! Kudos to BiNi! There is still a lot of sorting work to do.
We still have to figure out how to get parts shipped across the pond.
Slueth, don't worry about the 5 cents :-).
This is amazing news. I will strip the switches out of an old keyboard if I have to, if it means getting this working faster. I'm saving up the cardboard for the case.
It's going to be legendary.
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can i just use my balance to have bii ship mu parts directly? seems silly to a) burden 7bit with more parts to keep track of and b) ship all that stuff acros and back
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ps, that sounded a lot like *****ing but it's not. everything about this is generally super cool
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I'm pretty certain stuff is being cross shipped... 7bit's US switches to here, all the US sourced parts (for across the pond) to 7bit. Then complete packages get shipped from the appropriate place.
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in that case ignore my posts dudes. i blame jetlag
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alaricljs is correct. We cross ship parts across the pond in bulk to save shipping cost for everyone.
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very exciting... but also frustrating to know the parts are just a short drive away, and now they have to travel half way around the world and back before i can have them.
can i just use my balance to have bii ship mu parts directly? seems silly to a) burden 7bit with more parts to keep track of and b) ship all that stuff acros and back
Shipping of the Phantom stuff will be directly from Biniaris.
I only ship switches to Biniaris or directly.
Only the European orders will be shipped all to me fisrt and then forwared to everybody else, along with the switches!
alaricljs is correct. We cross ship parts across the pond in bulk to save shipping cost for everyone.
Bulks are hopefully not too bulky, so the customs won't catch them.
:-)
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BiNiaRiS needs help to sort and pack parts. I plan to drive to Portland next week to help him. Anyone wants to come over to help? We can have a Phantom party and you can take your orders with you when you leave! You can also check out BiNi's collection.
I'm tempted to go. What day are you planning on going?
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I am thinking Saturday and make it a day trip. Might go with my family so they can do some tax-free shopping while I sort and pack.
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I am getting so excited! I can't wait for mkawa's Phantoms to ship!
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jdcarpe, you buying mkawa's Phantom?
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One of them. It has winkeys and clear switches.
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iirc i have two kits coming and one extra pcb and plate. jdcarpe is getting the clear phansiwin kit
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I see qtan is selling Filco replacement cases on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300726960317
Not sure how good they are. I'd bet that these are better than feng's acrylic cases. Need to see more and better pictures.
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well that's fascinating. material looks odd. maybe POM?
edit: oh, PBT.
hmm, litster, what's the current ETA on parts from bini? i'd be willing to buy the baby blue case for science ;)
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btw jdcarpe, lmk if you want to switch the stems and springs with a different switch type. i have some switch stock sitting around
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I don't think switches from 7bit have be received by BiNi yet. And I don't know how long it will take to sort, pack, address, postage, and mail.
If you buy the case, check with qtan on his subforum here. He should be able to sell it cheaper if you buy directly from him instead of through ebay.
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yah i just pinged him. i'm going to order a blue and take some bedroom studio quality pics for everyone
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wait, don't buy it yet, it can fit Filco but not Phantom.
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is this confirmed?
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looks like it is alo made by MKC. His acrylic cases sold by feng was a mess, keys are stuck and the case top and bottom don't close together, and a few of them were broken when they were received by buyers.
Filco's USB connector is on 6-pack side of the keyboard. Phantom's Teensy controller is below F3 and F4. It may or may not work depends on how the bottom is made.
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they are about $27USD on taobao http://s.taobao.com/search?q=filco+87+%BF%C7
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ok thanks man. i'm going to be getting regular shipments from taobao most likely so i'll toss one in if they start looking promising. i agree MKC's qc isn't quite there yet.
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When I get the Phantom, I will let you know how it fits in the MKC acrylic case. Hopefully the Teensy won't be a fit problem.
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I am thinking Saturday and make it a day trip. Might go with my family so they can do some tax-free shopping while I sort and pack.
i'd be seriously interested if it weren't for the fact that my wife is out of town next weekend, and i've got the kids by myself for 2 days. i'd MUCH rather trek down to Portland.
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Hey man, kids love sorting little bits of plastic, ask iMav's :)
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Are any of the metal alu cases out yet? It's been forever since the announcement and prototype.
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don't hold your breath on vortex's. treble's is probably held up until the fall
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and swede disappeared.
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^ That's what I'm talking about. Oneproduct had ideas and was working on a prototype, but scrapped it now. Vortex showed an almost-finished prototype, but hasn't given any updates for months. Swede is MIA as well. treble mentioned to work on one, but that probably won't be until they finish with the poker metal cases. Any other options for metal cases since these phantom parts are all ready to ship?
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design your own
unfortunately a number of members A HEM kind of screwed over oneproduct and his friend's machine shop, plus they don't have the cnc mill that's needed.
treble's your best bet, but the fact is he's busy and his shop's primary income generator is not keyboard cases.
btw, i'm serious about designing your own. with a design in hand, treble will have a much easier and faster time getting the first prototypes out, and others can try local machine shops.
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I'm tempted to go. What day are you planning on going?
Looks like I will be going by myself this Saturday. gimpster, you want to come with me? It is going to be a day trip. Anyone else?
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MKC seems on the way to release one
http://www.mkcws.net/thread-650-1-1.html
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makes sense. his milled keys turned out pretty well, and even if he just clones the vortex design, that will probably be the only way we see that design in the states in a reasonable amount of time
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I wonder if it will be made as poorly as the rest of his products.
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I ordered 3 extra PCBs for myself. Because I have 1 Filco tenkeyless ANSI mounting plate, 1 full size ANSI plate, and 1 full size ISO plate lying around making nobody happy. The PCBs will fit either tenkeyless/full size plate. The full size plate needs to be a little modified to fit the tenkeyless case though. Some holes need to be drilled. I also ordered Teensys for them. And switches.. Diodes I have plenty at home...
I bought the extras to make programmable keyboards for lending out to friends. But I can certainly picture myself selling them off. But I would like to get rid of some of the switches as well in that case =)
PrinsValium: I'll probably take one !
Prins, you should sell one to a compatriot! ;)
I sawed and drilled the ISO full size plate today. It turned out alright, two holes are off a bit, but I don't think those screws are really needed. The tenkeyless is built like a tank =) I put some switches in the plate, the plate in the case, and everything is tight and key-to-case-clearance is fine all over.
All in all this means that I will be able to sell
2 ANSI Filco standard layout tenkeyless internals
1 ISO Filco standard layout tenkeyless internals
The only advantage over stock Filco then being the programmable controller.
[STRIKE]Djuzuh wants one (ANSI?)[/STRIKE]
fruktstund wants one (ISO?)
Another German guy may want one, or only the PCB I'm going to have to ask him about it.
I will also have a bunch of switches I really would like to get rid of (brown, blue and black if I am not misremembering).. and some Teensys and diodes. I could solder the boards for you if you want me to, gotta get to use my new fancy soldering station =D
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I'm gonna have to drop my dib. Sorry !
I hope somebody else will come, more exited than I am, and buy this off you :P
EDIT:*thanks for the offer !
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I'm gonna have to drop my dib. Sorry !
I hope somebody else will come, more exited than I am, and buy this off you :P
EDIT:*thanks for the offer !
No problem, originally I wasn't expecting to sell any of them =)
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Looks like I will be going by myself this Saturday. gimpster, you want to come with me? It is going to be a day trip. Anyone else?
I'm trying to figure out what family commitments I have this weekend. I will give you a definitive answer later today.
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MKC seems on the way to release one
http://www.mkcws.net/thread-650-1-1.html
Cnc milled zinc case, of anyone can't be bothered to use google translator
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prins i'll take the ansis
still with the zinc? y u love zinc so much mkc?
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Google translate "铝合金" as "aluminum alloy"
"Aluminium alloys are alloys in which aluminium (Al) is the predominant metal. The typical alloying elements are copper, magnesium, manganese, silicon and zinc"
I miss something?
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prins i'll take the ansis
Both? I am primarily interested in getting rid of plates, diodes, and Teensy as well as the PCBs. I have plates, PCBs, and components to build three boards. I was going to have them to hand out among friends for trying them out. But since there was interest from people here I thought I could just as well sell them... I understand if I can't supply switches to your liking, but the rest I would prefer to sell as a unit to clean up a little among all the little bits and pieces...
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Both? I am primarily interested in getting rid of plates, diodes, and Teensy as well as the PCBs. I have plates, PCBs, and components to build three boards. I was going to have them to hand out among friends for trying them out. But since there was interest from people here I thought I could just as well sell them... I understand if I can't supply switches to your liking, but the rest I would prefer to sell as a unit to clean up a little among all the little bits and pieces...
There is an upcoming switch group buy and there are some reserves to be sold after the initial shipment.
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ideally i'd just take all the pcbs, teensies and components off your hands and source phansi plates for all of them, but i imagine you want to get rid of the plates and the pcbs at once, so i can do 2 pcbs + ansi plates + trimmings if you'd rather do that. i don't need any switches. i have enough switches for four full boards on hand.
basically i'm just going to build up some phantoms and sell them off here; i just want people to have phantoms. ideally i'd like them to have phantoms with proper phantom plates, but unless someone confirms that we'll have enough extra plates, i'm not going to rely on the plate bit..
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Ok, I know already that this is going to get out of hand =) So I'll do like this.
I will reserve a PCB, components and the ISO plate for
fruktstund
I will reserve two PCBs, components, and the ANSI plates for
mkawa
MagicMeatball - first runner up
After this I will wait with promising anything to anyone until I have everything in my hands =) I will also not add anyone else's interest at this point. It is going to get messy.
mkawa, me keeping the plates is not too big a deal, as I said there will probably be future PCB buys that can populate them...
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ok cool. we can pool our resources (switches, pcbs, etc) once all the parts come in and people start banging down our doors for phantoms :)
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Are the plates PHANSI or PHANSIWIN? I would like to buy a PHANSI plate if one is available. To go with the Phantom kit I bought from mkawa.
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prins has plates recovered from a filco, so winkeyed, and without the quick-change tabs. afaik bini is going to have a pretty limited number of extra plates of any type, unfortunately, and there's probably going to be a huge amount of demand as everyone realizes they got the wrong plate/suddenly wants a phantom/etc
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Oh, ok. :)
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If you don't mind letting one go, mkawa, I would love to buy one of Prins's spare kits. I also want to try my luck at scoring a PHANSI plate, so like mkawa I'm not too keen on the filco plate. Let me know guys!
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like prins said, let's let everything settle first and get parts shipped out. after that, i'll start building stuff up for people, making kits, and sending them out. i think both of us have done more promising than we should of parts that we don't have in hand
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cool sounds good :) If I can get my hands on one I want to do the building because that's half the fun IMO!
EDIT: to clarify, I'm interested in a teensy, pcb, PHANSI plate, costar stabs, and diodes. I have switches and will figure out the case myself. I won't get my hopes up, but it sure would be awesome to have the first gh-brewed kb! (I was too much of a n00b when the gb was open, unfortunately)
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I'd really like a case like the KMAC :/
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I bought a PH7BIT and PHANSIWIN plate, I don't need the PH7BIT plate anymore if anyone wants it.
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I'm trying to figure out what family commitments I have this weekend. I will give you a definitive answer later today.
The wife and I are in. +1 big dog. I'll text you and work out the details.
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Ha, I had to consult my PM inbox, but today it is exactly one year ago that HaveANiceDay first contacted me about building the Phantom. This project is moving forward at the pace of a drunk snail... =D
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Which is better than some I've seen ;)
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Ha, I had to consult my PM inbox, but today it is exactly one year ago that HaveANiceDay first contacted me about building the Phantom. This project is moving forward at the pace of a drunk snail... =D
if i were a snail i'd be drunk all the frickin time, so i think we're perfectly on target.
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Snails are attracted to beer, and then they die.
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the happiest death
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It is on! Gimpster and I will be going to BiNiaRiS' place to sort and pack parts on Saturday! A mini Phantom meet up!
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huzzah! let us know if we can pp you guys a few bucks for beer :)
(also i want some more plates, lol)
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Was there ever a final decision on plate color? I remember seeing some prototypes, but I haven't kept up with this thread....
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black
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Don't forget the pictures!
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huzzah! let us know if we can pp you guys a few bucks for beer :)
(also i want some more plates, lol)
Beer donations are great, but rum donations are better. :party: My current favorite:
http://www.krakenrum.com
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I had Kraken last year, and it was pretty good!
I still prefer beer, If I could get it to you guys in time, I'd send over a couple bottles. Have fun packing phantoms.
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I had Kraken last year, and it was pretty good!
I still prefer beer, If I could get it to you guys in time, I'd send over a couple bottles. Have fun packing phantoms.
No worries, It's going to be a 4-hour drive each way anyhow...probably shouldn't do too much drinking. ;)
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No worries, It's going to be a 4-hour drive each way anyhow...probably shouldn't do too much drinking. ;)
4 hours? You need to drive faster! It should take 3 hours.
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4 hours? That's half my country in driving terms!
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Haha, that wouldn't even get you halfway across my state.
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the sorting/packing is all that is left. hopefully i can get that done in the next few days.
switches are still trickling in (coming in multiple packages).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]53742[/ATTACH]
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Sweet looking plates with cute cats!!!
BiNiaRiS told me that he has a buddy in town who can help with sorting and packing, and BiNiaRiS' girlfriend will also help. I won't need to go down to help. Thanks BiNi!!
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This feel so close now!
Also moar phantom cats!
Those plates look stunning! Came out really well. Even the cats look impressed.
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Look at that =) Now I almost feel bad for not ordering any plate... Next time I will have a special request though.
Nice cats. The gray one looks like mine, only longer hair.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]53743[/ATTACH]
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nice pic, guess your amp gets a little warm lol
are those headphone amps to the side?
your making me want to get my arcam 9 and poweramp out the loft. I'd have them close to my pc, but you can't get moved for keyboards and packing materials at the moment...
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oh god, want dem plates! *drool*
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nice pic, guess your amp gets a little warm lol
are those headphone amps to the side?
At full size you can almost make out the text on them. The one on the bottom is a DAC (later version (http://www.firestone-audio.eu/shop/products/allproductslisted/spitfire-mkii.php)) and the other one the power supply for it. I've been thinking about getting a power DAC to replace them all and save some desk space and clutter. I don't think my cats would appreciate the idea very much =D
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Little surprised you don't have DIY stuff actually
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Little surprised you don't have DIY stuff actually
Shh, I am going to let you in on a little secret. I don't know anything about electronics... But if I had good instructions, or at lest schematics, for a DIY DAC amplifier I would probably not be able to resist =D
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4 hours? You need to drive faster! It should take 3 hours.
Yah, Google Maps frequently lies to me. Keep in mind, I'm about 30-45 minutes further north from you, too. ;)
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I get a DIY audio newsletter from some forum, I should introduce you, your wallet and all your spare time ;)
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Recently I built 2 cMoyBB headphone amp, and just started building an Objective2 headphone amp. I don't know anything about electronics either. I follow the parts list to order parts from mouser.com and digikey.com There are instructions that you are basically putting lego pieces together. They tie me over until phantom parts are here. :-)
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(Attachment) 53743[/ATTACH]
I have the same NAD amp (except black)! :) Never buying another consumer grade audio product in my lifetime.
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My first headphone amp was a cmoy in an altoids tin, great bit of kit and little risk of electrocution! :)
I would be tempted by valves, but, i may kill myself.
why are you talking about phantom parts litster? you've had one the longest! ;)
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I want to build more phantoms. :-)
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I want to build more phantoms. :-)
What's that lit? You want to build mine too?
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What's that lit? You want to build mine too?
AND AN MX MINI? OKAY! sending it over right now!!
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Anyone need a phantom built w/ greens? ;) Someone cancelled their green board and I was looking forward to that.
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you can build my mx mini with greens >.<
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If you want, I'm more than happy to :)
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It's
definitely probably far too late to ask, but could phantom style plates be made for pokers? There are the plates from the DIY groupbuy, but I don't think they have the slots cut to allow the switch tops to come off or compatibility with both cherry and costar stabilizers.
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As they say, anything is possible... I don't know if BiNi pulled any favors to get the phantom plates made. That said, the source file came from the phantom PCB workup made by PrinsValium. His KB PCB howto contains the stuff needed to work with KiCAD and design a poker PCB, then you can also output the plate design and find a shop that can cut it for you.
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If you want, I'm more than happy to :)
just waiting on some stabilizers to come in and yes, i do want!
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Shh, I am going to let you in on a little secret. I don't know anything about electronics... But if I had good instructions, or at lest schematics, for a DIY DAC amplifier I would probably not be able to resist =D
AMB's Gamma1 is pretty excellent for a DIY DAC, and you can pair it with a mini^3 pretty easily. I have half the parts for two Gamma2's, but I have yet to solder them :p (It's been over a year)
Bini's picture is excellent. I wish I could own a cat here. Prins's cats are great, too.
I'm so excited this is all coming together!
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As they say, anything is possible... I don't know if BiNi pulled any favors to get the phantom plates made. That said, the source file came from the phantom PCB workup made by PrinsValium. His KB PCB howto contains the stuff needed to work with KiCAD and design a poker PCB, then you can also output the plate design and find a shop that can cut it for you.
I don't have a shop near me that could cut a plate cheaply, unfortunately.
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Recently I built 2 cMoyBB headphone amp, and just started building an Objective2 headphone amp. I don't know anything about electronics either. I follow the parts list to order parts from mouser.com and digikey.com There are instructions that you are basically putting lego pieces together. They tie me over until phantom parts are here. :-)
I have your Phantom parts, minus the switches, plus another little present from the Keyboard Fairy. :) Hit me up if you want to swing by today. And to everyone waiting, these things look really nice. I especially like the "credits" that were silk-screened onto the PCB; really nice touch. Now I need to find a weekend to warm up my soldering iron and start placing diodes...
EDIT: I would've just dropped them by on my way home last night but I didn't get back until 10:30...it was a looong day. At least I got to pick up some cheap Oregon liquor while I was there. :)
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I don't have a shop near me that could cut a plate cheaply, unfortunately.
Any hackerspace with a lazercutter? or a place where you can lend a lazer cutter?
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Still too early to ask for the second group buy? :P
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Still too early to ask for the second group buy? :P
I'm pretty sure the objective for everybody now is to make another custom keyboard, maybe more maybe less awesome.
Like the light.
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I'm pretty sure the objective for everybody now is to make another custom keyboard, maybe more maybe less awesome.
Like the light.
That ducky dragon looked awesome light-wise. RGB programmable leds would really solve all problems, unless multiple layer pcbs are too expensive and out of the question since there would have to be a sick amount of traces.
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So after we get them, are the Teensy controllers preflashed with QWERTY layout? Or how do we go about programming them?
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The teensy won't be preflashed. It is very simple to flash it though. Currently I have the firmware (.hex) built for PHANSI layout. It takes no time to make the other ANSI and ISO layouts. It is just a matter of editing a table in the source code and rebuild them. I can make the .hex files available later.
Click the link on my signature to go to the Phantom building thread.
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I'm pretty sure that a typical hackerspace laser cutter is not going to cut it (pun intended).
I would assume a water cutter would be an absolute minimum for a 0.063" piece of sheet metal.
A laser cutter could cut it out of 1/4 or 3/8 acrylic pretty easily though.
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I'm pretty sure that a typical hackerspace laser cutter is not going to cut it (pun intended).
I would assume a water cutter would be an absolute minimum for a 0.063" piece of sheet metal.
A laser cutter could cut it out of 1/4 or 3/8 acrylic pretty easily though.
Our sub contractors can cut 10mm steel with laser, so if you find any supplier who have any kind of cnc-laser, they ought to be able to cut it. They have lower limits at 0.5mm since the metal sheet gets blown away. Pretty much the same for waterjets, lower limits but almost no upper limit.
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when treble318 has time he may be able to help cut some plates. i don't want to put words in his mouth, but from previous conversations with him, i believe his shop has an appropriately beefy laser cutter.
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I'm pretty sure the objective for everybody now is to make another custom keyboard, maybe more maybe less awesome.
Like the light.
ergodox is closer to completion, I think it will be the next.
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I promise that's not a typical forty watt laser :-)
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Our sub contractors can cut 10mm steel with laser, so if you find any supplier who have any kind of cnc-laser, they ought to be able to cut it. They have lower limits at 0.5mm since the metal sheet gets blown away. Pretty much the same for waterjets, lower limits but almost no upper limit.
Do we have a name for our sub-contractor for the plates in this project?
I'd love to use them in a related project.
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when treble318 has time he may be able to help cut some plates. i don't want to put words in his mouth, but from previous conversations with him, i believe his shop has an appropriately beefy laser cutter.
I actually asked treble a while ago about the possibility of making plates. He's quite busy with other projects so I haven't tried asking again yet. Maybe when he has more free time & there's enough demand?
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If you have some drawings, I could ask our suppliers what they would charge for the plates. How many are there?
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Could probably just start an interest check for them. I don't have/know how to work autocad so someone would need to make the necessary changes to make a poker plate (put screw holes, take off the F keys, etc).
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Just out of curiosity, how much longer should it take to receive the switches in the US?
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I'd also like an update on the switches to the US. 2 months ago, someone said that they should be shipping out "soon." Is there any real, solid time frame as to when the switches are received AND then sent out?
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some switches arrived in at BiNiaRiS' in the states. They are being sorted and some Phantom orders maybe shipped out this week. There are two shipments of switches from 7bit to BiNiaRiS that well too large and heavy and had to be repackaged and sent again. 7bit should be doing this this week. 7bit also sent out some switch orders directly to US buyers if the order was large enough.
I still need an update from BiNiaRiS where he is at with his sorting and packing. Last time he updated me last week, he was almost don't with sorting and packing and was ready to ship out orders that he has all the parts. Some orders may take long to wait for the additional switches' arrival.
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Have the euro parts been shipped to 7bit yet?
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Awesome! Thanks for the update!! And thanks for all your work, everyone! I know I sound impatient, but that's just excitement. :P
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I am still looking for any Phantom parts I can get, just PM me if you have any. Also, I will most likely buy some extra plates since I will probably not find enough. I have already gotten prices on plates in stainless steel, just fyi in case anyone else wants some more plates.
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I would like another plate, isowin, I got an iso1.5 and a ansi1.5 , so interested mate.
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Well, my wife is impatient, and since BiNiaRiS seems to be hand-delivering the key caps to everybody... :P She gave the Cherry black switches a try and it turns out she rather likes them, so my work spent desoldering those Wyse boards yesterday was more useful than originally thought. Plus, I got myself a new sculpture. :lol:
(http://i.imgur.com/j6n2S.jpg)
I still don't have a case, but her keyboard is now completely assembled and fully functional. I need a 7x spacebar for her and a proper set of keycaps for the 1.5x mods, but at least it's usable. She wanted both styles of LEDs, so we put blue ones under the keys, Leopold-style, and violet ones in the frame, Filco-style. I couldn't get a good picture of the violet LEDs, but I used these (http://www.electron.com/330muv9c.html).
(http://i.imgur.com/ztEXQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/F3Mi8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6q0sF.jpg)
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Have the euro parts been shipped to 7bit yet?
+1
Are they shipped?
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Sorry for the lack of updates everyone. I've been doing some stuff on the side and my time to get everything finished has been dwindling. Not to mention some huge bumps on my end.
Everything is in the mail to Europe split into multiple shipments. Customs can be a pain in the ass. At least 2 packages 7bit sent me took slightly over 30 days to arrive.
the rest of your orders are trickling out. there are still a few people who's switches haven't arrived yet. i'll be doing the final count to see who's switches are missing over this weekend.
thanks for being patient everyone, this has been a huge learning experience for all of us. this project was about 10 times bigger than i thought it would be when i initially got into it, but we're almost through.
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Hi Biniaris, just wanted to confirm my change of address that I pm'd you. Thanks for all the hard work!
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I know the people involved in this project are doing a fantastic job. I also know that my own custom Phantom is going to be worth the effort/money/wait. + the wait time has proven useful in figuring out how to program the teensy.
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Good news guys! Good news!
BiNiaRiS just informed me that most packages should be delivered by the middle of next week (Wednesday-Thursday) at the latest. Canadian and International will be later/random.
7bit has been notified by custom that a package is waiting for him, but an invoice of the content is required. We are working through that now.
Please post when you receive your package so we can keep track. The sooner we know all orders are received, the sooner we can make the left overs available for purchase.
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Please post when you receive your package so we can keep track. The sooner we know all orders are received, the sooner we can make the left overs available for purchase.
Yes please
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Reporting on receiving The Switches. Also one of extra green, blue, white, lock, grey, other grey and two of those long ones, what are the long ones? Are those extra ones like "Hey feel these ones also" and maybe buy more?
Hopefully the boards come soon :P.
(http://dezeer.kapsi.fi/mxcherry/Pile2.jpg)
(http://dezeer.kapsi.fi/mxcherry/Pile.jpg)
(http://dezeer.kapsi.fi/mxcherry/Line.jpg)
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Those are old Cherry M7s if I'm not mistaken.
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Latest update on my Phantom project. I had to order a new desoldering iron after my Radio Shack special crapped out, so I upgraded to the Hakko 808. What a nice machine that is to work with. It showed up on Tuesday so last night I set about desoldering 2 Dolch keyboards and liberating them of their blue Cherry switches. Then I mounted them up on the blue Phantom and soldered away. Second Phantom is finally done.
(http://i.imgur.com/jaBAp.jpg)
And since my Round 3 Moogle keys arrived yesterday, I could actually load up a full set of Dolch keys. I had to fix the firmware, I found that the firmware I previously used was setup for standard 87-key layout, not 86-key. Small fix, and now it's all working great. Glamour shots below.
Monochrome Phantom:
(http://i.imgur.com/p3YRv.jpg)
Touch of blue:
(http://i.imgur.com/nw0bt.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/q3BKk.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NxYIg.jpg)
Still waiting for the LEDs to show up from China, so those aren't on yet, but they will be soon enough. Now I just need my Round4 Phantom keys. :) I also think a Cream Cheese & Blue set would look P-I-M-P on this board.
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Any information on when shipments will start for North America?
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Status Update for you all. I have some bad news and good news.
Bad news. The shipment of plates to 7bit got returned to me today. The front of the box had basically been demolished. The shipping info was mostly destroyed so it was returned unreadable (and thus undeliverable). Fortunately my return address was mostly there so we are just delayed. This only affects European orders. No plates were damaged and they will be reshipped tomorrow via 6-10 shipping.
Good news. Every US (and non-EU) order has been shipped. 37 packages went out Tuesday (couldn't make it Monday) and the few stragglers will be dropped off tomorrow. There are a few unlucky people:
dmk, riffautae, theta, and malpardis. Your switches were either lost in the mail or somehow missed the cut when 7bit was shipping them. We're relatively certain they were lost in the mail. Either way, 7bit is shipping replacement switches. To make it even worse, I only have some extra MX Red switches which none of you ordered. I will be shipping out the rest of your orders so you can at least start on soldering diodes.
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huge thank you for handling this bini. this has been a HUGE accomplishment for gh and we should all remember how much work you and lit did to make it happen
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it became about 10x what i signed up for.
the next round i'm pretty sure we'll be doing small kits. pcb + controller + plate (maybe 1-2 designs). switches will probably be a separate purchase directly through 7bit. it will simplify it all. i don't want to have to sort 8000 diodes in to 100, 120, 143, 150, 100, 85, 400 ever again :\
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WE LOVE YOU BINI
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Yeah, the next round! <3
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it became about 10x what i signed up for.
the next round i'm pretty sure we'll be doing small kits. pcb + controller + plate (maybe 1-2 designs). switches will probably be a separate purchase directly through 7bit. it will simplify it all. i don't want to have to sort 8000 diodes in to 100, 120, 143, 150, 100, 85, 400 ever again :\
check out my thread on ideas for 2nd run. summary: prestuffed SMT pcb, no more involvement with 7bit at all. demik has found several switch sources that can provide what we need in the US at lower than 7bit's pricing and much more quickly. in the worst case, we can order from mouser and be provided our orders in a timely manner at slightly higher prices. in future we will work on established deadlines on assembling and providing constructable kits.
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Now I had to go search for this new thread...
Really, sorting diodes should have been the easy part.. They come on reels, and you measure them out in hundreds with a ruler and a 10% overshoot, they are practically for free in these amounts =P
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I got my package today, but won't be able to play with it until I get home from work :D
Now, are there still no metal cases available? There was like 5 options a few months ago, and non of them came through.
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Touch down confirmed!
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BTW, please keep this thread for ordering discussion. Please use this thread (link below) for Phantom building and modding discussion
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=26742.0
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Switches! Thanks, Bini!
(http://www.knizefamily.net/images/pool/keyboard-cherry-switches.jpg)
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Now I had to go search for this new thread...
Really, sorting diodes should have been the easy part.. They come on reels, and you measure them out in hundreds with a ruler and a 10% overshoot, they are practically for free in these amounts =P
not the ones we got. the diodes we got came in a large box with 5 smaller boxes inside it. in each smaller box were pink baggies of 500 loose diodes each. this was not a digikey thing, this is for sure how they came from the factory. maybe they come on reels for larger diodes, but these are very small.
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Damn, even the ones I've ordered from ebay have been tape reels.
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Yay! got my pcb and plate today. Thanks guys!
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Exciting! Looking forward to getting mine.
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Once people start getting their stuff. DIBS ON LEFTOVERS!
Damn, I gotta stay alert from now on once something pops up.
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Just got all my stuff and lootbags from bini time to get building this weekend!
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the next round i'm pretty sure we'll be doing small kits...
OH MY! Great news for those of us that made the huge mistake of not participating in the first round.
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Just wanted to thank all of you involved in this. I got my package with switches, plates and diodes.
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I can't wait for leftovers either.
More than anything though, I'm after a ISO plate!
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Just got mine: 1 PCB (super high quality, I should have got two) two plates (ansi-win and 7bit: Also super high quality) 110 green, 110 clear, 110 white switches.
I'm very happy about this.
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What do you plan on doing with an extra plate? I could see doing an extra PCB and going plateless, but are you planning on PtP?
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What do you plan on doing with an extra plate? I could see doing an extra PCB and going plateless, but are you planning on PtP?
He was obviously thinking of me and having my best interest in mind when he ordered a little something extra just for me :P
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I hope the 2nd round isn't for a few more months, I have already spent most of my upcoming checks LOL.
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What do you plan on doing with an extra plate? I could see doing an extra PCB and going plateless, but are you planning on PtP?
I initially wanted to go "lopoly-style" and Point-to-Point it, but I may end up sending it to a user who got in on the game a little late. Either way, it won't happen until my first phantom is done.
The plan initially was to make the 7bit one with the PCB, but now I think I'll do the normal one with the PCB and put my Ti spacebar on it.
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Finished my first build everything went smoothly except that I am short 4 resistors that I need for the rest of the board that I am doing.
Edit: Also though id add and tell everyone that the Phantom fits a PLU-87 perfectly if you had any doubts.
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Edit: Also though id add and tell everyone that the Phantom fits a PLU-87 perfectly if you had any doubts.
Very good to know, thanks =)
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Edit: Also though id add and tell everyone that the Phantom fits a PLU-87 perfectly if you had any doubts.
Very good to know, thanks =)
yea no problem. its also easily modified to use for 7bit layout as well, just dont accidentally cut out supports that can stay in like I did.
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Edit: Also though id add and tell everyone that the Phantom fits a PLU-87 perfectly if you had any doubts.
Now we just need someone to try Keycool/HPE 87 =P
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Edit: Also though id add and tell everyone that the Phantom fits a PLU-87 perfectly if you had any doubts.
Very good to know, thanks =)
yea no problem. its also easily modified to use for 7bit layout as well, just dont accidentally cut out supports that can stay in like I did.
Sweet, what did you use to cut it?
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Received my package this morning, but I'm missing my 7bit plate. :-/
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Edit: Also though id add and tell everyone that the Phantom fits a PLU-87 perfectly if you had any doubts.
Very good to know, thanks =)
yea no problem. its also easily modified to use for 7bit layout as well, just dont accidentally cut out supports that can stay in like I did.
Sweet, what did you use to cut it?
Dremel with Plastic Cutting disc
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Folks, please continue to use this thread on order related issues, and use the Phantom building and mod thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=26742.new;topicseen#new) for build and mod discussions. This would make it easier for us to manage any outstanding order issues and easier for everyone to find and discuss build and mod issues. Thanks.
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Sorry about that. I am missing 4 resistors.
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Sorry about the missing parts, TheProfosist. I emailed bini to send you the resistors. I am not sure when he will be able to send them out. they are very cheap if you can find them locally. Any resistors between 75 to 200 ohms should work too, if you have them laying around.
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Sorry about the missing parts, TheProfosist. I emailed bini to send you the resistors. I am not sure when he will be able to send them out. they are very cheap if you can find them locally. Any resistors between 75 to 200 ohms should work too, if you have them laying around.
The only place that might have the locally would be radio shack so i will check there. The ones included were 75ohm correct?
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75 ohm works. higher resistance means a little dimmer LEDs, which is not a bad thing IMO. You can also change the firmware to make it dimmer. See the phantom build thread for details.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=26742.msg640384#msg640384
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I picked up some 100ohm ones from radio shack, now I can get back to building.
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Just wanted to post and say that I received my switches a couple weeks ago!! So very happy! Now, I just have to find time to put them in my wife's Filco! :D
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My order came in last week. Thanks guys!
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my phantom (built) is being shipped to me tomorrow!!!
can't wait!!!!
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If we still have not received switches, should we let someone know? :(
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If we still have not received switches, should we let someone know? :(
dmk, riffautae, theta, and malpardis. Your switches were either lost in the mail or somehow missed the cut when 7bit was shipping them. We're relatively certain they were lost in the mail. Either way, 7bit is shipping replacement switches. To make it even worse, I only have some extra MX Red switches which none of you ordered. I will be shipping out the rest of your orders so you can at least start on soldering diodes.
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My bad - didn't see that post with all of the GH confusion of late. :(
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Side note - I double-checked on my order, and I actually did have 20 red MX switches in there (if that changes anything). :D
dmk, riffautae, theta, and malpardis. Your switches were either lost in the mail or somehow missed the cut when 7bit was shipping them. We're relatively certain they were lost in the mail. Either way, 7bit is shipping replacement switches. To make it even worse, I only have some extra MX Red switches which none of you ordered. I will be shipping out the rest of your orders so you can at least start on soldering diodes.
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An update. BiNiaRiS told me all orders, including international orders, are all sent. All US orders should be delivered by now. Some priority mail international orders sent by BiNiaRiS have already been delivered. Other first class parcel international orders will take some time to arrive.
Orders for dmk, riffautae, theta, and malpardis will be mailed out by BiNiaRiS soon sans the missing switches. agor's switches somehow arrived at BiNiaRiS's by mistake. Will check with 7bit if he has extra stock to send to agor within EU.
Except one package, all packages from BiNiaRiS have arrived at 7bit's custom office. 7bit will hopefully be able to pick them up this Friday or Saturday. If not, 7bit won't be able to get to the custom office for another week.
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Excellent! I got mine a while ago, and it's awesome. The plates are really beautiful in person (especially stuffed with a ton of greens).
Are there any extras available? I was sort of wanting some stabilizers (Which I forgot to order). Now that I see the quality of the plates and PCB's, I want to build more of these.
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If you ordered PHANSIWIN (1.25x mods) plate, you can purchase all the costar stabilizers you need from WASDKeyboards. If you ordered PHANSI (1.5x mods), you need a 7x spacebar stabilizer, which I don't know where else you can buy from except from me. I can bend some more later. If you order 7bit plate, then you are on your own :-)
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Post your Phantom pictures here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34909.new#new
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litster, sent you a PM. I'm going to step aside on my order, since it was all switches. Perhaps that will take some of the strain of re-ordering off of BiNi. Just got unlucky with this one. :(
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after many moons...
it is a reality.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/20408132/Keyboards%20%26%20Keycaps%20(Cherry)/Photo%20Aug%2023%2C%206%2048%2021%20PM.jpg)
phantom x fake alert
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I got sent the 7bit frankenplate even though I ordered the PHANSI.
Was so excited during the unboxing, even had the switches lubed and ready to go.
Well, everyone make mistakes.
(http://i.imgur.com/zdGIc.jpg)
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after many moons...
it is a reality.
Show Image
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/20408132/Keyboards%20%26%20Keycaps%20(Cherry)/Photo%20Aug%2023%2C%206%2048%2021%20PM.jpg)
phantom x fake alert
Hooba jooba, great work!
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I got sent the 7bit frankenplate even though I ordered the PHANSI.
Was so excited during the unboxing, even had the switches lubed and ready to go.
Well, everyone make mistakes.
Replied to your PM. We will make it right. Sorry about the mix up.
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If you ordered PHANSIWIN (1.25x mods) plate, you can purchase all the costar stabilizers you need from WASDKeyboards. If you ordered PHANSI (1.5x mods), you need a 7x spacebar stabilizer, which I don't know where else you can buy from except from me. I can bend some more later. If you order 7bit plate, then you are on your own :-)
I didn't know they carried the plate-mount inserts, too. Bless you, my son.
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/cherry-mx-plate-mounted-stabilizer-clips-2pcs.html
Although I could probably just take apart my WYSE terminal 'board....
Insert X5 (0.35*5=1.75)
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/cherry-mx-keycap-stabilizer-insert.html
Clip X5 (0.35*5=1.75)
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/cherry-mx-plate-mounted-stabilizer-clips-2pcs.html
Spacebar wire X1 (0.75)
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/cherry-mx-stabilizer-spring-for-spacebar.html
2x+ wire X4 (0.5*4=2)
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/cherry-mx-stabilizer-spring-for-keycaps.html
Total is under $7 /keyboard ex. shipping. and I wanted a wire keypuller, so this is a good excuse.
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Do you guys Ship to Sri Lanka?
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Do you guys Ship to Sri Lanka?
the groupbuy is already complete and i believe theres no leftovers.
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Do you guys Ship to Sri Lanka?
the groupbuy is already complete and i believe theres no leftovers.
Do you know where i can get a DIY Phantom or any other kit (Filco Compatible)? Any Ideas are appreciated. I have missed all the fun :(
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A lot of people missed out on this keyboard, it's not just you. There will probably a Phantom2 group buy. It's currently being planned right now, but only in the infancy stage. The order thread probably won't happen for a while.
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@WhiteFireDragon, Thanks for the information
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Otherwise you can also look into http://tinyurl.com/9or8x9c
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Excluding people who have contacted me about their missing switch-only order, all US and non-EU Phantom orders have all been shipped and should have been delivered and received. If you have not received yours or are missing parts, speak up now please.
For those who have received your Phantom kit, go put it together, and start using it. And then help with firmware mod.
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Has anyone got one or two phantom spare PCBs to sell?
I'm looking to buy 2, don't particularly care where they come from.
I'm gonna get a custom plate or two cut myself, so I just need the PCBs. :)
On a similar note, any news on leftovers?
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I just received a bag of switches. [no phantom parts still] I was expecting the opposite :o
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Does anyone in Europe have a spare ISO-Layout available?
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I have 2 spare 7bit plates along with keycaps that match my original 7bit layout if anyone is interested
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I found some issues with the MX Lock switches related to the LED being placed off center.
Caps Lock works fine because there are several holes for the LED which are arranged every other anode and cathode, which allows for many LED positions.
(http://i.imgur.com/Wm2q7.jpg)
See, works fine here even though the LED isn't centered. I don't think this was intentional, and it is possible because you have 2 positions where you can put the switch for center stemmed and off center caps lock. You have two pairs of holes for the two positions of the switch. What you do is that you put one lead of the LED in each pair of holes, and use one hole of the right position and one from the left.
(http://i.imgur.com/oP4KK.jpg)
Here is the switch I modified to fit a LED off center but with center spaced pins.
(http://i.imgur.com/bfYH8.jpg)
And voila, this is how it looks after you cut an extra hole and bend the leads . Remember that the lock switch has some stuff in the way, so you have to bend it around inside the switch.
(http://i.imgur.com/Uzwnp.jpg)
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Mine finally came in. Cheers 7Bit = ).
Assembling it tonight and getting my sweet sweet keycaps from WASD soon as well. = D
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Any way we can get at those extras soon?
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I hope so too! We want extras!
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Mine finally came in. Cheers 7Bit = ).
Assembling it tonight and getting my sweet sweet keycaps from WASD soon as well. = D
interested in what you got after you did all of those templates for me.
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Interesting. To clarify This was a Module For 35 bucks, Thats it? or was there a complete board for some other price?
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i want extra too~~
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To clarify, this was a PCB and plate set that could have included Costar stabs, teensy MCU, MX switches sourced via 7bit, and other minor parts (diodes, resistors, leds)
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So I got my phantom parts and switches awhile ago but haven't had a chance to mess with it, been too busy with work. I'm looking to start on it this weekend. Wasn't there a wiki guide at one point on the steps to putting it all together?
Thanks.
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Si.. desko... found it http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Instruction
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ALARIC IS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SANDY YOU HAD ONE JOB DAMN IT
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Big MFin storm, and all I got was this little tree in my driveway and 3.6 days without power.
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Si.. desko... found it http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom_Instruction
Thank You!
I knew I saw it someplace!
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Big MFin storm, and all I got was this little tree in my driveway and 3.6 days without power.
pfft that's it?
all that water you bought for nothing
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Seriously, I have 7 cases of water unused.
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well you know what you have to do right?
surprise indoor hurricane Sandy on your family at 4am.
if they ask why, just tell them "THIS IS WHAT NEW JERSEY HAD TO GO THROUGH SO FEEL GRATEFUL"
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well you know what you have to do right?
surprise indoor hurricane Sandy on your family at 4am.
if they ask why, just tell them "THIS IS WHAT NEW JERSEY HAD TO GO THROUGH SO FEEL GRATEFUL"
I LoL'd!
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Heh, here in the UK we haven't had a hurricane since about 1987.
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If you voted before, please vote again. This is the final round.
The Final round of Deskthority Awards voting has begun. If you like your Phantom, please go to the links below to vote for Phantom for these Deskthority Awards:
Vote Phantom for best keyboard company or Brand (http://deskthority.net/deskthority-awards-2012-f34/best-keyboard-company-or-brand-2012-t4544.html#p86829)
Vote Phantom for The Deskthority Award (http://deskthority.net/deskthority-awards-2012-f34/the-deskthority-award-2012-t4550.html)
Vote Phantom for Best Space-Saving Compact Keyboard (http://deskthority.net/deskthority-awards-2012-f34/best-space-saving-compact-keyboard-2012-t4546.html#p86831)
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Why is there no Deskthority Award for Best Keyboard-Related Internet Forum? I'd vote for Geekhack!
I'll go vote for Phantom now...
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Thanks jdcarpe!
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7bit layout is sick. How much was it to make one of those?
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7bit layout is sick. How much was it to make one of those?
Check the new IC thread http://tinyurl.com/cfxjd8x