Thanks! I am trying to draw a plate for my 360c, so I need the little tab with holes. Am I correct that swill's tool can only draw a plate without the tabs?
I am not sure that thing call a "tab" or something else, but the part in the blue circle is what I mean
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1) Use swill's tool and get it to spit out the 2D CAD file for you, not the drawing.
2) Open the file in FreeCAD or your CAD program of choice
3) Add in the tabs.
Swill's tool only does the plate.
I have a Poker II that I am happy with, aside from one small thing. Two, maybe.
Sometimes when I am using the board, seemingly completely randomly, it will switch over to the second programmed layer, with no lights popping up anywhere. Aside from manually hitting FN+whatever, I didn't think that there was any way to toggle the second layer. As far as I know, the second layer is just the arrow keys and the printed functions. It is not modifiable. What am I inadvertently pressing to end up this way? Not all of the functions are activating upon keypresses, just the arrow keys (wasd)
The third layer is the programmable layer, and I have "okl;" mapped for the arrow keys for playing Danmaku. I use right shift+FN to toggle to this layer. Since these are the only programmed keys, I can still use the native volume control (FN+nm,). However, when I try to change the volume while pressing a shift+Z+FN+n/m, the left alt key lights up, and I can't make any keypresses at all. What the heck is going on? I admit that's probably a lot to make the keyboard handle, but I would like to at least know what I am doing wrong.
I don't really know off the top of my head and it's not a very simple question. I suggest making a separate thread to get more visibility.
I have a really petty question.
Should I set up my plate for stepped offset caps lock or centered caps lock?
Don't want that wide modular cutout or mod the stem for my backlit key either lol
Do you want a stepped or centered caps lock? Go from there.
Just about ready to start putting things together. Trying to plan ahead while I wait for the acrylic sheets I ordered. How does this matrix look? It will require me rotating a few switch holes in the thumb cluster. I was trying to make the wiring as simple and neat as possible. Is anything obviously wrong here? Thanks.
Really not a simple question. I suggest making a separate thread for more visibility. Thread is really for quick and easy questions. I don't consider matrix checks a simple question.
Where can I buy a 60%, backlit keyboard, where I can program how the backlights behave entirely myself? I want to create a piece of software that will talk back to the keyboard and illuminate certain keys in response to actions in the software. Preferably RGB and preferably mechanical. Must be 60% as space is at a premium but 75% might work. The key point is I need the illumination level of each individual key to be programmable by me in my own software (from say, C, or Golang).
Will any of the keyboards such as the Pok3r or the Ducky Mini be able to do this?
Pretty sure this doesn't exist in a stock board. You're probably going to have build a custom.
1) Could anyone explain the differences been the xwhatsit controller and a Soarer's Converter?
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So I've got a Model F AT coming in the mail soon, and I ordered one of the Soarer's Converters off Orihalcon on ebay. From what I understand, the SC is a Teensy with Soarer's firmware that is an intermediary device between your keyboard and PC, and the xwhatsit replaces the keyboard's original controller and provides all the same functionality. Is that right?
Is there any major difference in functionality, or any reason to prefer one over the other? Is one more difficult to create or install than the other? I'm thinking I may eventually want to use Xwhatsit's controller for my Model F because having the SC separate from the keyboard itself would probably bother me after a while.
2) Completely unrelated question, does anyone know what is required to get an ADDS 1010 terminal keyboard to work with modern PCs, if it is even possible?
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Gallery of pics (not mine)
1) In addition to what has already been said, Soarer seems to be a bit easier and is an external add-on. You could hide it inside the board but you can also make an inline converter like Fohat.digs has shown. xwhatsit's controller requires you replace the original controller with his. I was scared to damage my OG hardware in my 4074 62key when I was swapping in the xwhatsit.
Soarer's converter allows you to use a variety of firmwares such as TMK or metalliqaz's EasyAVR. xwhatsit's converter only uses his software that he's created programming for.
So my Soarer's Converter arrived in the mail today. Trying it with some old board I had lying around, and all is fine except for one key. Doesn't seem to do anything, nothing registers in HID Listen. Is this likely to be something wrong with the switch itself, or something nonstandard about this keyboard?
Thanks.
Seems like the switch might be dead or that switch doesn't have a regular scancode.
Any online stores stocking stabs, stickers, and mx clear switches, possibly lube atm?
EliteKeyboards isn't really good for anything on your list other than lube. I suggest checking out MechanicalKeyboards.com and Techkeys.us
Do stickers really make a difference?
I think it looks good on assembly pictures ;)
See the OP. I think they're a waste of time and money to be honest. It's a PITA to add the stickers on and you'll see them....once or twice a month or year when you swap caps? Putting them on solely to take a nice picture is a colossal waste of time in my eyes.
Thanks guys. But I was wondering as a possible source for buckling springs caps with custom legends. Mostly multi unit stabilized keys.
Did you see rowdy's reply from Fentek? I think they might be able to help you out.
Any of these mech boards?
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I don't think so. Looks like all rubber domes to me.
Pretty sure that's everything from when I was AFK. Let me know if I missed anything.
