Post by: lutchbu on Wed, 31 October 2018, 18:48:53
Two weeks ago I posted on reddit about a little piece of brass I machined to fix the old stemmed BOX switches I have. I also made a v2 out of steel.
(https://imgur.com/kggaoO9.jpg)
Reddit post v1: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/9p2ay5/i_present_to_you_the_stemshaver/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/9p2ay5/i_present_to_you_the_stemshaver/)
Reddit post v2: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/9p97bd/stemshaver_v2_adventures_in_metal/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/9p97bd/stemshaver_v2_adventures_in_metal/)
Imgur album: https://imgur.com/a/zgmJw6z (https://imgur.com/a/zgmJw6z)
This got some attention and lots of people told me they'd be interested in buying one, so here we are...
IC Form: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdqCEiw2psQEP_6m0DztjzyczzvGgwjO_JBK3t7tdOsohNagw/viewform (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdqCEiw2psQEP_6m0DztjzyczzvGgwjO_JBK3t7tdOsohNagw/viewform)
If there are any questions, feel free to get in touch but it's the first time I'm doing something like this, so please be gentle. ;)
frequently asked questions
Price
To explain my current manufacturing steps a bit:
cutting stock to lengthmilling the slotsgrinding the bevels and deburringfine tuning the distance between the cutting edges to 1.25mm by hand sanding the inside faces of the tool The new version does not require this anymore.
Current estimate: 10-18 USD depending on order quantity
Shipping
I'm in the EU and I plan to ship worldwide if we get that far. The tool is small, this should keep the shipping costs fairly low. Current estimate is 8-10 USD tracked and insured up to ~40 USD. No promises though.
Durability
It turns out there are lots of you with several hundred switches they'd like to fix. This rises the reasonable question if the tool will hold up/stay sharp for that many switches,
I don't think the sharpness will be a problem. Even if the shaver blunts it could easily be resharpened with some fine grit sandpaper and a flat surface.
Testers report minimal to no wear after testing the stemshaver on up to 200 switches.
How to use it
Ideally, you push it on the stem in the right orientation, pull it off and you're done. I would recommend testing the fit every few switches and adjusting the tool or your technique accordingly to produce the desired tightness.
Short video of me using the tool:
UPDATE 2
New version:
(https://imgur.com/8Fd7da4.jpg)
In this version the sides of the x-axis are closed. This should prevent the prongs from deforming but is a bit more difficult to machine.
I also made prototypes of the regular and deluxe version.
Regular:
(https://imgur.com/c3lAFxB.jpg)
Deluxe:
(https://imgur.com/YzSPBRS.jpg)
more pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/wnLvcYB (https://imgur.com/a/wnLvcYB)
The next step is to send a few stemshavers out for testing.
UPDATE 3
OVERVIEW
testresults, i've been takling to a cnc shop and decided to drop the artisan idea
TESTRESULTS
- design: Material will be steel and the stemshaver does not need a bevel. No bevel would cut costs by ~25% but means that there might be a slightly higher force required to operate
- function: Prototypes produced the desired results but had to be applied a second time rotated 180°. This is due to my milling setup and should not be an issue with the ones produced by the cnc shop.
- durability: Prototypes were tested on up to 200 switches with minimal to no wear observed
PRICE
Current estimate is 10-18 USD for the regular version, depending on quantity.
and now?
I'm not quite sure how to proceed from here to be honest. Ideally, I would want to send out a batch of prototypes made by the cnc shop to test them out. However I do not have the means to finance a small prototype run.
So... any advice?
Changelog:
2018-11-01: added FAQ
2018-11-11: added Update 2, updated FAQ
2019-03-21: added Update 3, updated FAQ
Post by: cijanzen on Wed, 31 October 2018, 18:49:36
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: LightningXI on Wed, 31 October 2018, 18:58:04
Post by: pixelpusher on Wed, 31 October 2018, 19:21:34
Post by: ReverbSlush on Wed, 31 October 2018, 19:26:58
Post by: Techno Trousers on Wed, 31 October 2018, 19:29:59
1. Can you do a render of sorts of your deluxe tool idea? It can be potato, I'm just having trouble visualizing what you mean.
2. About how long does it take you to mill one, what's the likelihood of mistakes and do-overs, and what is the per-tool metal cost? I want to know a little more before suggesting a price.
3. I have around 700 of the first-gen box switches to shave. Do you think brass would stay sharp through that many?
Thanks for running this! It'll be a life saver.
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Wed, 31 October 2018, 20:55:12
Post by: Starius on Wed, 31 October 2018, 21:07:58
I have a lot of unused Box switches stocked up.
I had been considering trying to sell them, but if this tool works - I would rather try this first rather than completely offloading my stock.
Post by: euphxenos on Wed, 31 October 2018, 21:50:19
Post by: ExuDeCandomble on Wed, 31 October 2018, 21:52:08
Post by: audax989 on Wed, 31 October 2018, 21:56:55
Post by: donutcat on Wed, 31 October 2018, 23:23:02
Post by: Mcnos on Wed, 31 October 2018, 23:37:15
Post by: sevenseacat on Thu, 01 November 2018, 00:55:52
Interested. Even though I'm not that into box anymore. There's not much that's unique
If you like clicky switches, there isn't much to compare them with...
Post by: Eggplant on Thu, 01 November 2018, 01:00:57
Post by: portbaron on Thu, 01 November 2018, 01:27:36
Post by: _ODIN_ on Thu, 01 November 2018, 03:08:00
Gesendet von meinem H8416 mit Tapatalk
Post by: Kerasan on Thu, 01 November 2018, 04:00:46
KMK Labs.
Post by: funderburker on Thu, 01 November 2018, 04:08:13
Post by: Darknight00z on Thu, 01 November 2018, 10:19:03
Post by: realxmlforce on Thu, 01 November 2018, 12:34:22
Gesendet von meinem Xperia Z5 mit Tapatalk
Post by: Techno Trousers on Thu, 01 November 2018, 14:03:00
Post by: macken on Thu, 01 November 2018, 16:32:01
Post by: dead_pixel_design on Thu, 01 November 2018, 16:50:28
Post by: voight-kampff on Thu, 01 November 2018, 17:02:07
It is a tool used for let's say for a year. Then all the box stems will be the new ones, and the old ones will be shawed.
Post by: Acereconkeys on Thu, 01 November 2018, 17:13:40
Post by: Starston3 on Thu, 01 November 2018, 17:20:26
Post by: pixelpusher on Thu, 01 November 2018, 17:37:35
Post by: cijanzen on Thu, 01 November 2018, 18:58:48
Since every time I see this topic I misread it as either “steamshaver” or “steambeaver”, can we call it that? Maybe the stem beaver? Thx
Heh, I like Stem Beaver. +1
Post by: Zuology on Thu, 01 November 2018, 19:02:38
Post by: Acereconkeys on Thu, 01 November 2018, 19:03:00
Post by: cijanzen on Thu, 01 November 2018, 19:04:26
How about calling it the Boxcutter? Wordplay/pun requirement satisfied without bordering on lewd, conveys what it does.
Beavers aren’t lewd. They’re literally animals that chew down trees. But I do like box cutter as well.
Post by: dead_pixel_design on Thu, 01 November 2018, 19:22:45
Post by: lutchbu on Thu, 01 November 2018, 19:26:58
I'm interested, but I have questions before filling out the form.I don't have render at the moment, just an idea in my head. ;) I'll try to make some prototypes soon.
1. Can you do a render of sorts of your deluxe tool idea? It can be potato, I'm just having trouble visualizing what you mean.
2. About how long does it take you to mill one, what's the likelihood of mistakes and do-overs, and what is the per-tool metal cost? I want to know a little more before suggesting a price.
3. I have around 700 of the first-gen box switches to shave. Do you think brass would stay sharp through that many?
Thanks for running this! It'll be a life saver.
PVD Coating pls :)) :)) :))
KMK Labs.
In for one too. And some thing to protect the stem shaver from corrosion would be nice. I guess that is what the pvd coating demand is for?
What's the coating about? Like what you see on some knives, where it's coated except for the cutting edge?Please keep in mind that every manufacturing step added will drive up cost. I could oil the steel version but that would be a mess.
Since every time I see this topic I misread it as either “steamshaver” or “steambeaver”, can we call it that? Maybe the stem beaver? Thx
Heh, I like Stem Beaver. +1
How about calling it the Boxcutter? Wordplay/pun requirement satisfied without bordering on lewd, conveys what it does.I like both names. :) Maybe we'll get a rebrand for the GB.
Post by: GigaFlop on Thu, 01 November 2018, 19:47:54
Post by: onefivenine on Thu, 01 November 2018, 19:54:17
Post by: Zuology on Thu, 01 November 2018, 20:15:34
Beavers aren’t lewd. They’re literally animals that chew down trees. But I do like box cutter as well.
My mind is just dirty and went to the lewd side (shave + beaver + box/stem), so I tried to temper it for non-sick-f*cks by adding "bordering on" :D
Post by: pixelpusher on Thu, 01 November 2018, 21:15:58
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Fri, 02 November 2018, 16:12:38
Post by: lendflat on Fri, 02 November 2018, 16:14:19
Post by: dead_pixel_design on Fri, 02 November 2018, 16:35:51
Can you explain how this tool actually works??
OG box stems have little ridges on the side that can break caps, this cuts them off
Post by: bluesclera on Fri, 02 November 2018, 16:40:33
Post by: dario on Sat, 03 November 2018, 02:58:00
Post by: funderburker on Sat, 03 November 2018, 05:28:06
How about calling it the Boxcutter? Wordplay/pun requirement satisfied without bordering on lewd, conveys what it does.
"Box cutter" sounds good and with just the right amount of pun. :thumb:
Post by: Starius on Sat, 03 November 2018, 07:43:15
How about calling it the Boxcutter? Wordplay/pun requirement satisfied without bordering on lewd, conveys what it does.
"Box cutter" sounds good and with just the right amount of pun. :thumb:
I'm fond of that one myself. ;)
Post by: azeria on Sat, 03 November 2018, 12:26:38
Post by: azharkh on Sat, 03 November 2018, 19:53:35
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Post by: PikaJoyce on Sat, 03 November 2018, 21:11:32
Post by: dead_pixel_design on Sat, 03 November 2018, 22:29:57
Post by: BigBlackThock on Sat, 03 November 2018, 22:48:13
Post by: pixelpusher on Sat, 03 November 2018, 23:12:11
I keep hearing people refer to OG and first generation box switches as if this is no longer an issue. I have been told the exact opposite by several people. Do I need this if I buy new box switches or not?
I'm trying to test them but it's a slow process. I have a GMK set sitting on retooled box red switches. They've been on there for over two weeks and still not signs of stress. I'll try another box switch in a few days probably. I own a full set of all of them, old and newly retooled.
Post by: lutchbu on Sun, 04 November 2018, 05:04:38
Awesome illustration! Thanks for making it.Can you explain how this tool actually works??OG box stems have little ridges on the side that can break caps, this cuts them off
Hey OP, what do you think would your tool work with Nexus ALPS to MX stem (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94500.0) equally well? Turns out, they need some shaving too.I don't see why it shouldn't work with all MX style stems.
Post by: Techno Trousers on Sun, 04 November 2018, 17:22:01
Post by: dario on Tue, 06 November 2018, 11:27:47
Hey OP, what do you think would your tool work with Nexus ALPS to MX stem (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94500.0) equally well? Turns out, they need some shaving too.I don't see why it shouldn't work with all MX style stems.
There is one thing I still don't understand though.
Guy who's making those Nexus stems mentioned 1.28 mm as his goal after shaving with a razor blade.
You on the other hand was going after 1.25 mm if I understood correctly what you wrote in the initial post? Isn't that perhaps a little bit too thin?
What's the official Cherry specification?
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Tue, 06 November 2018, 12:47:27
Hey OP, what do you think would your tool work with Nexus ALPS to MX stem (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94500.0) equally well? Turns out, they need some shaving too.I don't see why it shouldn't work with all MX style stems.
There is one thing I still don't understand though.
Guy who's making those Nexus stems mentioned 1.28 mm as his goal after shaving with a razor blade.
You on the other hand was going after 1.25 mm if I understood correctly what you wrote in the initial post? Isn't that perhaps a little bit too thin?
My spec was 1.30mm±0.02mm, but the mold is measuring 1.28mm or 1.29mm, so a light shave would be 1.25mm, but I actually fully cut them off on mine and the caps still stay on.
Post by: dario on Tue, 06 November 2018, 12:58:08
My spec was 1.30mm±0.02mm, but the mold is measuring 1.28mm or 1.29mm, so a light shave would be 1.25mm, but I actually fully cut them off on mine and the caps still stay on.
Thing is, official MX spec that I found was 1.31 +/-0.2 mm. GMK molds are actually OG Cherry molds, so they should work fine on Cherry stem.
You are saying yours are 1.28 and they still somehow have problems. I find that to be peculiar because obviously stem thickness is just one of the factors, and shape, size and volume of the knob on the stem may actually have a lot to do with the problem, but that's just my speculation.
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Tue, 06 November 2018, 13:16:15
Thing is, official MX spec that I found was 1.31 +/-0.2 mm. GMK molds are actually OG Cherry molds, so they should work fine on Cherry stem.
You are saying yours are 1.28 and they still somehow have problems. I find that to be peculiar because obviously stem thickness is just one of the factors, and shape, size and volume of the knob on the stem may actually have a lot to do with the problem, but that's just my speculation.
Oh I know the geometry is the problem...but only now because the sliders were designed before the issue with BOX switches came to light, and I was going off of their design but thinner. V2 is going to be like cherry but I still don't know what dimension, Cherry spec may be 1.31±0.02mm but they tend to measure smaller than that, so I will have to figure that out.
Post by: dario on Tue, 06 November 2018, 13:26:56
V2 is going to be like cherry but I still don't know what dimension, Cherry spec may be 1.31±0.02mm but they tend to measure smaller than that, so I will have to figure that out.
Yeah, to complicate things even further, size of the mold is one thing and size of the product is another because POM shrinks a little bit during the cooling process. It's quite difficult to determine everything right
Post by: Vizir on Tue, 06 November 2018, 18:15:46
Post by: TheMastermind on Tue, 06 November 2018, 21:28:06
Post by: Darknight00z on Wed, 07 November 2018, 11:05:09
Post by: AlcoholEnthusiast on Wed, 07 November 2018, 12:36:28
Post by: lutchbu on Fri, 09 November 2018, 12:28:43
Hey OP, what do you think would your tool work with Nexus ALPS to MX stem (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94500.0) equally well? Turns out, they need some shaving too.I don't see why it shouldn't work with all MX style stems.
There is one thing I still don't understand though.
Guy who's making those Nexus stems mentioned 1.28 mm as his goal after shaving with a razor blade.
You on the other hand was going after 1.25 mm if I understood correctly what you wrote in the initial post? Isn't that perhaps a little bit too thin?
What's the official Cherry specification?
Hey OP, what do you think would your tool work with Nexus ALPS to MX stem (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94500.0) equally well? Turns out, they need some shaving too.I don't see why it shouldn't work with all MX style stems.
There is one thing I still don't understand though.
Guy who's making those Nexus stems mentioned 1.28 mm as his goal after shaving with a razor blade.
You on the other hand was going after 1.25 mm if I understood correctly what you wrote in the initial post? Isn't that perhaps a little bit too thin?
My spec was 1.30mm±0.02mm, but the mold is measuring 1.28mm or 1.29mm, so a light shave would be 1.25mm, but I actually fully cut them off on mine and the caps still stay on.
Would caps be loose on 1.25mm?
1.25mm is not too thin. I have some Gateron Reds that measure at around 1.22mm.
I removed the nubs entirely on one of the BOX switches and this is definitely to thin (~1.08mm). Keycaps still hold on when turned upside down but just barely.
Hey OP, any update on these?I've been working on a new version. I'll post an update this weekend.
Post by: LightningXI on Fri, 09 November 2018, 12:34:05
Post by: dario on Fri, 09 November 2018, 13:16:26
Ideally the shaving should be to the point where it holds as well as an original Cherry MX switch does.
Yes but this is almost impossible to do properly because OG Cherry stems have different geometry. You can measure the thickess and try to reproduce that, but it most probably won't feel the same on another stem.
Post by: lutchbu on Sun, 11 November 2018, 19:45:56
Post by: 82d28a on Sun, 11 November 2018, 19:59:52
Post by: Starius on Sun, 11 November 2018, 21:17:42
I only just noticed the video in the initial post too, that is very compelling.
Thank you so much for starting this project!
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Sun, 11 November 2018, 21:33:59
Post by: Ambelie on Sun, 11 November 2018, 23:37:52
Post by: xoxox1029 on Mon, 12 November 2018, 05:13:06
Post by: funderburker on Mon, 12 November 2018, 05:31:16
feel bad for people whove used the box switches until now,
Why? It's only an real issue if you have them on "end-game" builds and/or GMK keysets I think. They're still great switches just ****s up keysets :D
Post by: ExuDeCandomble on Mon, 12 November 2018, 08:24:14
Why? It's only an real issue if you have them on "end-game" builds and/or GMK keysets I think. They're still great switches just ****s up keysets :D
This is a good point. I've actually considered getting something like Maxkey WoB so that I can use Box switches with impunity!
Post by: Acereconkeys on Mon, 12 November 2018, 11:37:56
OP if you need someone to test the shaver on the Nexus sliders, hit me up. They have a very similar bump to the box switches so I would be curious to see how it does. Plus you may get more sales if I can confirm it. :P
Someone get this man a stem shaver... stat!! I really hope this solves one of the unforseen aspects of the nexus buy.
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Mon, 12 November 2018, 13:06:28
Post by: Techno Trousers on Tue, 13 November 2018, 14:57:22
Post by: Albatross on Tue, 13 November 2018, 17:10:32
OP if you need someone to test the shaver on the Nexus sliders, hit me up. They have a very similar bump to the box switches so I would be curious to see how it does. Plus you may get more sales if I can confirm it. :P
Definitely would like to know if this tool works well for the Nexus sliders.
Post by: GigaFlop on Tue, 13 November 2018, 17:31:01
I have a few hundred box switches that I'm not planning on using. If you need someone to test these let me know. I also work in a machine shop and can do precision measurements if you want to collect more data on the dimensions after shaving.
I, too have a stash of Box switches and may be able to afford to be a tester. I'll have to get some calipers, but those will be cheaper than replacing my Mitolet or upcoming Carbon purchases.
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Sat, 17 November 2018, 10:58:30
Post by: Cods on Sat, 17 November 2018, 16:07:49
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Sat, 17 November 2018, 17:02:55
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Sun, 18 November 2018, 17:32:42
Post by: phatty on Mon, 19 November 2018, 03:20:00
I have something like 5000 cap crackers, so these would be a godsend!
Post by: Starius on Mon, 19 November 2018, 10:27:09
I'd love to buy a stack of these for Australia.
I have something like 5000 cap crackers, so these would be a godsend!
This is the first time I've heard box switches referred to as "cap crackers."
Tragic, but catchy!
Post by: blakstealth on Mon, 19 November 2018, 11:01:00
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Mon, 19 November 2018, 11:45:05
Post by: oldcat on Mon, 19 November 2018, 12:41:26
Post by: romevi on Mon, 19 November 2018, 13:16:41
Post by: Geroximo on Mon, 26 November 2018, 13:03:58
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Mon, 26 November 2018, 13:11:57
Post by: AlcoholEnthusiast on Mon, 26 November 2018, 17:51:51
Bought some old box switches on the cheap in anticipation for the stem shaver. Don't let me down hahaha
Same got 100 Novelias and Navies on the way in anticipation of this. Hopefully we see something soon.
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Mon, 26 November 2018, 19:08:49
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Mon, 26 November 2018, 19:22:19
You guys bought those on the Black Friday sale too?Yee, couldn't say no to some cheap thick clicks.
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Mon, 26 November 2018, 20:26:59
You guys bought those on the Black Friday sale too?Yee, couldn't say no to some cheap thick clicks.
Not to mention the last of the Novelias
I'm definitely waiting for the Stemshaver to fix those, I'm not going to risk hacking those up with an Xacto knife.
Post by: sJ1N on Sat, 01 December 2018, 05:26:01
Post by: gaiden on Sat, 01 December 2018, 07:54:58
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Post by: gasp on Sat, 01 December 2018, 21:23:16
Post by: Jubileus on Sat, 01 December 2018, 23:21:01
Post by: pixelpusher on Sat, 01 December 2018, 23:25:42
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Sat, 01 December 2018, 23:34:26
I know that he is sending a few prototypes out for people to test. So, it'll probably happen soon.
Yep, mine should be here soon hopefully so stuff will be happening soonish I hope.
Post by: Techno Trousers on Sat, 01 December 2018, 23:50:17
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Sun, 02 December 2018, 09:15:34
Post by: menuhin on Sun, 02 December 2018, 15:26:54
If Kailh can sponsor this project, this is going to be a Win-Win situation to recover the mess of creating these cap-stem breaking switches:
1. Kailh can get approval from us in their latest revisions of box switches fittings and prove that the Stemshaver does not further shave down the new switch stems.
2. We are happy to try out our old shaved switches, and other users with the testimony from us can rest their mind to buy a finally corrected revision of their box switches.
Of course, Kailh can just deny and ignore all these and just keep revising their box switches until no one (who still dare to try) breaks their key caps any more. I bet their sales, even with the wave of box royal purple, are declining sharply because of this.
Post by: pixelpusher on Sun, 02 December 2018, 21:04:28
Post by: Kavik on Mon, 03 December 2018, 12:54:25
Why? It's only an real issue if you have them on "end-game" builds and/or GMK keysets I think. They're still great switches just ****s up keysets :D
This is a good point. I've actually considered getting something like Maxkey WoB so that I can use Box switches with impunity!
Maxkey sets are especially susceptible to the cracking issue because they have very thin stem walls (they have been known to crack easily even without box switches from what I've read). The keyset that originated my thread was Maxkey Orange on Dolch.
Post by: 2ndRoad805 on Wed, 05 December 2018, 01:24:02
Post by: IOVERCALLHISTIOCYTES on Wed, 05 December 2018, 15:28:18
Post by: Darknight00z on Sun, 09 December 2018, 10:15:17
Post by: AlcoholEnthusiast on Sun, 09 December 2018, 14:13:21
Post by: Starius on Sun, 09 December 2018, 14:25:48
I have a prototype in the mail, I'll update after using.:thumb:
Please do! I think many of us are waiting with bated breath and fingers crossed.
Post by: Harms on Sun, 09 December 2018, 15:03:19
Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Sun, 09 December 2018, 15:41:35
Post by: AlcoholEnthusiast on Sun, 09 December 2018, 17:25:57
I have a prototype in the mail, I'll update after using.:thumb:
Please do! I think many of us are waiting with bated breath and fingers crossed.
It's the brass one, not SS - so it will be interesting to see how long it holds up. I have 175 Navies, 75 Jades and 100 Novelias. Hopefully it holds up for all of them.
Would still buy SS version if it became available.
Post by: lutchbu on Mon, 10 December 2018, 12:37:13
Have we scared OP off?Don't worry, I'm still here.
I'm currently waiting to get feedback on the prototypes I sent out.
Post by: roostrc0gburn on Mon, 10 December 2018, 13:19:45
Post by: Techno Trousers on Tue, 11 December 2018, 07:51:14
Post by: dyrdevil on Tue, 11 December 2018, 10:14:56
Post by: pixelpusher on Tue, 11 December 2018, 12:53:50
First and most importantly, it seems to work. Time and testing will tell, but I'm quite optimistic on this.
It's simple to use, but does require some force to press it onto the stem (varies by switch). This is probably something that is easier to do with mounted switches than with loose switches. Have you ever tried to push PCB mount switches into a board with small holes? That's the feeling I have in my hands after doing 6 switches. It will take a bit of time and patience.
It took me about 5 minutes to do the top row of my box black board and another 5 min to do some loose hako violets. I plan to finish up the box black board (the one that originally broke my hyperfuse set), and mount some GMK caps on it. Then I'll continue to use the tool on loose switches to see how well it holds up. I'll report back when I find how everything turns out.
Post by: ReverbSlush on Tue, 11 December 2018, 12:58:52
Post by: pixelpusher on Tue, 11 December 2018, 13:01:13
is it possible to go "too far" with this tool? like make them too shaved so that the caps aren't tight enough on the board?
Nope. I haven't had that happen. Even used the tool on a few stems 8 or 9 times. It just takes off what is needed.
Post by: Starius on Tue, 11 December 2018, 13:24:45
A problem with a niche product arose.
The community came together to discuss and identify the problem, and discuss potential solutions.
And then someone starts creating a solution to help others fix said problem.
You guys are great.
I'm gonna order like, 2 or 3 of these things. 😊
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Tue, 11 December 2018, 13:59:21
This thread is pricisely why someone could fall in love with this community.Starius over here pulling at my heart strings and making me cry.
A problem with a niche product arose.
The community came together to discuss and identify the problem, and discuss potential solutions.
And then someone starts creating a solution to help others fix said problem.
You guys are great.
I'm gonna order like, 2 or 3 of these things.
On the real though, I can't agree more. Thank you to lutchbu for designing the stemshaver and to all the prototype testers for running it through its paces.
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Wed, 12 December 2018, 14:31:26
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Wed, 12 December 2018, 16:02:03
Nexus Sliders:
1) The stemshaver heavily favors cutting on one side and barely on the other, this is most likely due to manufacturing and can be fixed. I have marked the side that cuts with a sharpie and everytime I use it only that side cuts and the other barely does anything, and I flip it to cut the other bumps and once again that same marked side cuts. So I have to cut each stem twice, which sucks.
2) The insert needs to be glued in because it can actually get stuck on the stem and prevent it from being separated without using pliers.
3) Can't be used with an assembled switch, which is fine because it wasn't meant to fit in an alps(or nexus for that matter) housing.
4) After cutting twice on each stem they typically shave off ~0.05mm and when put in a GMK cap, fit tightly and don't stress the cap at all.
5) The cap grows from ~5.59mm to ~5.69mm with the stem inserted, which is the same as some cherry MX reds I tested with. So caps seem to be safe and still fit very tightly like they should.
Conclusion: Nexus sliders seem to benefit from the stemshaver, once glued in and marked for the dominant cutting side. Caps are not stressed like they used to be, and are stretching the same as MX reds so that is a good sign.
BOX switches:
1) Once again the dominant cutting side still is seen here so you have to cut twice and flip the cutter 180 degrees in between cuts. Once done it shaves off ~0.05mm, which puts it in the safe range and does not stretch the caps. Can't measure the increase in cap stem size as the box switch gets in the way and I don't feel like destroying one right now. My bet is it may stretch a tad less than MX reds as it wasn't held as tightly but that can be due to the surface finish after cutting as well.
2) Much easier to cut than nexus sliders as you don't have to due the slider separately and that makes it easier to remove.
Conclusion: The Stemshaver works well on the BOX switches and puts them in the safe zone to not crack or stress caps yet still be held tightly.
Things I would change:
1) Glue the insert in as it is able to come out during use, which make it a pain and slows the process down greatly.
Post by: lendflat on Wed, 12 December 2018, 16:06:38
Okay so I have been shaving stems for a little while now and here are my findings so far. (Won't be giving actual measurements only deltas as all calipers/micrometers will measure slightly different depending on manufacturer and each Stemshaver has a tolerance as well)
Nexus Sliders:
1) The stemshaver heavily favors cutting on one side and barely on the other, this is most likely due to manufacturing and can be fixed. I have marked the side that cuts with a sharpie and everytime I use it only that side cuts and the other barely does anything, and I flip it to cut the other bumps and once again that same marked side cuts. So I have to cut each stem twice, which sucks.
2) The insert needs to be glued in because it can actually get stuck on the stem and prevent it from being separated without using pliers.
3) Can't be used with an assembled switch, which is fine because it wasn't meant to fit in an alps(or nexus for that matter) housing.
4) After cutting twice on each stem they typically shave off ~0.05mm and when put in a GMK cap, fit tightly and don't stress the cap at all.
5) The cap grows from ~5.59mm to ~5.69mm with the stem inserted, which is the same as some cherry MX reds I tested with. So caps seem to be safe and still fit very tightly like they should.
Conclusion: Nexus sliders seem to benefit from the stemshaver, once glued in and marked for the dominant cutting side. Caps are not stressed like they used to be, and are stretching the same as MX reds so that is a good sign.
BOX switches:
1) Once again the dominant cutting side still is seen here so you have to cut twice and flip the cutter 180 degrees in between cuts. Once done it shaves off ~0.05mm, which puts it in the safe range and does not stretch the caps. Can't measure the increase in cap stem size as the box switch gets in the way and I don't feel like destroying one right now. My bet is it may stretch a tad less than MX reds as it wasn't held as tightly but that can be due to the surface finish after cutting as well.
2) Much easier to cut than nexus sliders as you don't have to due the slider separately and that makes it easier to remove.
Conclusion: The Stemshaver works well on the BOX switches and puts them in the safe zone to not crack or stress caps yet still be held tightly.
Things I would change:
1) Glue the insert in as it is able to come out during use, which make it a pain and slows the process down greatly.
Seriously you should of at least volunteered to shaved all the stems for round 1ers....shame on you.
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Wed, 12 December 2018, 16:15:14
Seriously you should of at least volunteered to shaved all the stems for round 1ers....shame on you.
And you should learn that your opinion isn't important, if you have problems with it keep it to yourself, you were an ass in my thread and now you are coming here to do the same thing, stop being an ******* just because you head is stuck up one.
Post by: AlcoholEnthusiast on Wed, 12 December 2018, 23:04:34
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I read that somewhere.
I got my prototype in - I won't be able to test it until Friday afternoon, but I will be able to report back then!
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Wed, 12 December 2018, 23:44:53
My understanding was that one side was supposed to be cut more than the other, because on box switches iirc, the X axis had bigger nubs on the end than the Y axis. And it was the X axis that was causing issues with caps, so that was the 'problem' side that needed to be shaved.
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I read that somewhere.
I got my prototype in - I won't be able to test it until Friday afternoon, but I will be able to report back then!
You are correct, but I was meaning there is a dominant x axis side(due to machining tolerance) so it doesn't cut both sides bumps the same hence the 180 rotation.
Post by: donutcat on Thu, 13 December 2018, 16:42:12
- With the steel shavers, they do fit quite snugly on the stems making it take a not-insignificant amount of force to take it back off after pushing it on. One of my shavers fits well enough in the handle that it doesn't pull out of it, but the other one I did have to remove from the switches I've used it on with pliers. Gluing or otherwise permanently mounting it into the handle would help this, but I'm not able to do that since I need to test two different shavers.
- I did encounter the same situation blindassassin talked about where one side the angle shaver does seem to favor cutting more than the other. It doesn't seem to affect the fit of the caps after using it, and the "issue" does seem to be more pronounced on stems that are larger to begin with since some of the slimmer stems seemed to shave evenly.
So far the end result with a virgin/sacrificial GMK cap(who uses Scroll Lock anyway?) and a G20 PBT blank has shown good results comparing between before shaving, after shaving, and comparing to the fit of a Gat green. It's a noticeably looser/smoother fit that feels nowhere near as dangerously tight as some stock boxes. I hope to have some more testing done in a bit, hopefully an entire board or two for each of the two different shavers, I'm just not entirely sure when I'll have it done.
Post by: AlcoholEnthusiast on Thu, 13 December 2018, 19:38:14
My understanding was that one side was supposed to be cut more than the other, because on box switches iirc, the X axis had bigger nubs on the end than the Y axis. And it was the X axis that was causing issues with caps, so that was the 'problem' side that needed to be shaved.
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I read that somewhere.
I got my prototype in - I won't be able to test it until Friday afternoon, but I will be able to report back then!
You are correct, but I was meaning there is a dominant x axis side(due to machining tolerance) so it doesn't cut both sides bumps the same hence the 180 rotation.
Gotcha, that makes sense. I'll see if I have the same experience when I use it.
Post by: kmfmppl on Fri, 14 December 2018, 05:58:12
Post by: lutchbu on Sun, 16 December 2018, 13:54:34
Okay so I have been shaving stems for a little while now and here are my findings so far. (Won't be giving actual measurements only deltas as all calipers/micrometers will measure slightly different depending on manufacturer and each Stemshaver has a tolerance as well)
Nexus Sliders:
1) The stemshaver heavily favors cutting on one side and barely on the other, this is most likely due to manufacturing and can be fixed. I have marked the side that cuts with a sharpie and everytime I use it only that side cuts and the other barely does anything, and I flip it to cut the other bumps and once again that same marked side cuts. So I have to cut each stem twice, which sucks.
...
I suppose by side you mean left/right? This would suggest that the cutting faces are not parallel. If I had to guess I'd say this is due to the lack of rigidity in my milling setup (and my inexperience).
2) The insert needs to be glued in because it can actually get stuck on the stem and prevent it from being separated without using pliers.
...
Things I would change:
1) Glue the insert in as it is able to come out during use, which make it a pain and slows the process down greatly.
This wasn't really an issue for me but I was concerned about it. The reason I didn't glue them in is because of the idea to repurpose them as "artisans". Adding some water to the hole in the handle to swell the wood fibers was sufficient during my tests. A drop of super glue would be more permanent but could still be released with heat. This would damage/char the handle though most likely.
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Sun, 16 December 2018, 14:46:04
I suppose by side you mean left/right? This would suggest that the cutting faces are not parallel. If I had to guess I'd say this is due to the lack of rigidity in my milling setup (and my inexperience).
Yes that is what I was saying, it isn't a major issue, just a noted issue that can/will happen and you will have a hard time avoiding unless you use a CNC or have a perfect mill and hand control.
EDIT: Even a small amount of deflection would be enough to cause a noticeable difference. Maybe take a smaller depth of cut on the final pass? Not sure if you are using a smaller tool or an exact size tool and doing a single pass. I would recommend multiple passes with a smaller tool if you aren't already doing so, I suspect you are as it is the correct technique, but in case you aren't, please do :).
This wasn't really an issue for me but I was concerned about it. The reason I didn't glue them in is because of the idea to repurpose them as "artisans". Adding some water to the hole in the handle to swell the wood fibers was sufficient during my tests. A drop of super glue would be more permanent but could still be released with heat. This would damage/char the handle though most likely.
It is mainly an issue with the nexus sliders as the stemshaver seems to have a harder time cutting. This is probably due to my design as the leading edge of the bump is chamfered and filleted so it may actually be deforming and cramming itself into the tool. Not sure if BOX switches have the issue as I already glued it in before I moved on to them, as I tested nexus first and it was an annoying issue. Can be easily solved by the end user but honestly I don't know if the aritsan idea would actually be used or worth keeping as a feature.
Post by: Techno Trousers on Sun, 16 December 2018, 16:02:17
Post by: _ODIN_ on Sun, 16 December 2018, 16:07:54
Maybe a glued/non-glued decision from purchasers would be appropriate? Personally, I'll go for glued, because first and foremost it's a tool for me, and I have a LOT of them to shave.+1
Post by: 82d28a on Sun, 16 December 2018, 17:34:53
Maybe a glued/non-glued decision from purchasers would be appropriate? Personally, I'll go for glued, because first and foremost it's a tool for me, and I have a LOT of them to shave.
Same here I see it as a tool not art. As a tool it should be easy and comfortable to use. Please don't make it so that we need to hack it to use it.
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Sun, 16 December 2018, 18:29:33
Post by: rainb1ood on Sun, 16 December 2018, 19:22:29
Post by: phatty on Tue, 18 December 2018, 17:00:39
https://imgur.com/a/iEZoM9e
Top row is unshaved, bottom row has been shaved. I'm sure the pictures highlight my findings.
After shaving each stem, I found it much easier to remove keycaps. When comparing to unshaved stems, the shaved stems are significantly improved.
I used some extra crappy, cheap DSA caps, which pretty much crack on anything they come in contact with. That includes Zealios and Cherry MX switches. Though, when used on the unshaved MX Clear, was so tight it wouldn't come off and then also had no signs of stress marks or cracks. At the end of the album is a comparison between the two.
Personally, I recommend getting the wooden handle one as it makes the process so much easier. Especially as you can see that my handle free one got stuck, in some sort of Excalibur situation.
When shaving you do have to shave twice, from the opposite angle. As in, if you shave from the top, you will need to shave from the bottom to hit both sides of the stem.
I used an art knife to shave off the unwanted excess plastic. This helps when you put keycaps back on so they sit properly.
I will be buying a stack with handles as these work and ultimately do exactly what I need.
Post by: 82d28a on Tue, 18 December 2018, 17:42:35
So, my Stemshavers arrived on Friday and I have had enough time to test them out. Below is an album of to show my testing. Be sure to embiggen the pictures for a better view.
https://imgur.com/a/iEZoM9e
Top row is unshaved, bottom row has been shaved. I'm sure the pictures highlight my findings.
After shaving each stem, I found it much easier to remove keycaps. When comparing to unshaved stems, the shaved stems are significantly improved.
I used some extra crappy, cheap DSA caps, which pretty much crack on anything they come in contact with. That includes Zealios and Cherry MX switches. Though, when used on the unshaved MX Clear, was so tight it wouldn't come off and then also had no signs of stress marks or cracks. At the end of the album is a comparison between the two.
Personally, I recommend getting the wooden handle one as it makes the process so much easier. Especially as you can see that my handle free one got stuck, in some sort of Excalibur situation.
When shaving you do have to shave twice, from the opposite angle. As in, if you shave from the top, you will need to shave from the bottom to hit both sides of the stem.
I used an art knife to shave off the unwanted excess plastic. This helps when you put keycaps back on so they sit properly.
I will be buying a stack with handles as these work and ultimately do exactly what I need.
Thank you for the detailed review with pics!
Have you considered lube on the shaver so it is easier to push in and pull out?
Did you notice any shaved bits building up inside the shaver? If so how did you get it cleaned out?
Post by: phatty on Tue, 18 December 2018, 17:50:49
So, my Stemshavers arrived on Friday and I have had enough time to test them out. Below is an album of to show my testing. Be sure to embiggen the pictures for a better view.
https://imgur.com/a/iEZoM9e
Top row is unshaved, bottom row has been shaved. I'm sure the pictures highlight my findings.
After shaving each stem, I found it much easier to remove keycaps. When comparing to unshaved stems, the shaved stems are significantly improved.
I used some extra crappy, cheap DSA caps, which pretty much crack on anything they come in contact with. That includes Zealios and Cherry MX switches. Though, when used on the unshaved MX Clear, was so tight it wouldn't come off and then also had no signs of stress marks or cracks. At the end of the album is a comparison between the two.
Personally, I recommend getting the wooden handle one as it makes the process so much easier. Especially as you can see that my handle free one got stuck, in some sort of Excalibur situation.
When shaving you do have to shave twice, from the opposite angle. As in, if you shave from the top, you will need to shave from the bottom to hit both sides of the stem.
I used an art knife to shave off the unwanted excess plastic. This helps when you put keycaps back on so they sit properly.
I will be buying a stack with handles as these work and ultimately do exactly what I need.
Thank you for the detailed review with pics!
Have you considered lube on the shaver so it is easier to push in and pull out?
Did you notice any shaved bits building up inside the shaver? If so how did you get it cleaned out?
Lube could help with the process. With the handle I haven't had any issues though.
The way the stems are shaved, all the build up sticks to the stem, hence needing the knife to cut the excess plastic off. You can just blow the lightweight plastic out of the Stemshaver if need be.
Post by: ArchDill on Tue, 18 December 2018, 18:17:51
I did not read the full thread so please forgive me if someone else has already said this...
Post by: Harms on Tue, 18 December 2018, 20:37:49
Post by: AlcoholEnthusiast on Tue, 18 December 2018, 22:17:52
Post by: GCPixel on Wed, 19 December 2018, 02:41:43
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: Techno Trousers on Wed, 19 December 2018, 08:43:28
Are these being sold already?Nope. Early testers are reporting results. Sounds like there are just a couple of tweaks that could make this tool perfect! I'm really looking forward to ordering mine.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: ideus on Wed, 19 December 2018, 12:41:45
Post by: lutchbu on Wed, 19 December 2018, 18:08:27
The BOX switch stems are also chamfered, that's why I changed the design to a closed slot for the x-axis.I suppose by side you mean left/right? This would suggest that the cutting faces are not parallel. If I had to guess I'd say this is due to the lack of rigidity in my milling setup (and my inexperience).
Yes that is what I was saying, it isn't a major issue, just a noted issue that can/will happen and you will have a hard time avoiding unless you use a CNC or have a perfect mill and hand control.
EDIT: Even a small amount of deflection would be enough to cause a noticeable difference. Maybe take a smaller depth of cut on the final pass? Not sure if you are using a smaller tool or an exact size tool and doing a single pass. I would recommend multiple passes with a smaller tool if you aren't already doing so, I suspect you are as it is the correct technique, but in case you aren't, please do :).This wasn't really an issue for me but I was concerned about it. The reason I didn't glue them in is because of the idea to repurpose them as "artisans". Adding some water to the hole in the handle to swell the wood fibers was sufficient during my tests. A drop of super glue would be more permanent but could still be released with heat. This would damage/char the handle though most likely.
It is mainly an issue with the nexus sliders as the stemshaver seems to have a harder time cutting. This is probably due to my design as the leading edge of the bump is chamfered and filleted so it may actually be deforming and cramming itself into the tool. Not sure if BOX switches have the issue as I already glued it in before I moved on to them, as I tested nexus first and it was an annoying issue. Can be easily solved by the end user but honestly I don't know if the aritsan idea would actually be used or worth keeping as a feature.
I'll probably omit the artisan idea and keep it for another GB, maybe.
Is there a scheduled date for GB launch yet?No.
So, my Stemshavers arrived on Friday and I have had enough time to test them out. Below is an album of to show my testing. Be sure to embiggen the pictures for a better view.Are you describing the same situation as BlindAssassin111 above (shaving twice)?
https://imgur.com/a/iEZoM9e
Top row is unshaved, bottom row has been shaved. I'm sure the pictures highlight my findings.
After shaving each stem, I found it much easier to remove keycaps. When comparing to unshaved stems, the shaved stems are significantly improved.
I used some extra crappy, cheap DSA caps, which pretty much crack on anything they come in contact with. That includes Zealios and Cherry MX switches. Though, when used on the unshaved MX Clear, was so tight it wouldn't come off and then also had no signs of stress marks or cracks. At the end of the album is a comparison between the two.
Personally, I recommend getting the wooden handle one as it makes the process so much easier. Especially as you can see that my handle free one got stuck, in some sort of Excalibur situation.
When shaving you do have to shave twice, from the opposite angle. As in, if you shave from the top, you will need to shave from the bottom to hit both sides of the stem.
I used an art knife to shave off the unwanted excess plastic. This helps when you put keycaps back on so they sit properly.
I will be buying a stack with handles as these work and ultimately do exactly what I need.
Looking through your pictures, the amount shaved off does seem to be a bit excessive. In which orientation are you using the stemshaver? The open slot should be facing north/south.
Post by: phatty on Thu, 20 December 2018, 18:23:06
So, my Stemshavers arrived on Friday and I have had enough time to test them out. Below is an album of to show my testing. Be sure to embiggen the pictures for a better view.Are you describing the same situation as BlindAssassin111 above (shaving twice)?
https://imgur.com/a/iEZoM9e
Top row is unshaved, bottom row has been shaved. I'm sure the pictures highlight my findings.
After shaving each stem, I found it much easier to remove keycaps. When comparing to unshaved stems, the shaved stems are significantly improved.
I used some extra crappy, cheap DSA caps, which pretty much crack on anything they come in contact with. That includes Zealios and Cherry MX switches. Though, when used on the unshaved MX Clear, was so tight it wouldn't come off and then also had no signs of stress marks or cracks. At the end of the album is a comparison between the two.
Personally, I recommend getting the wooden handle one as it makes the process so much easier. Especially as you can see that my handle free one got stuck, in some sort of Excalibur situation.
When shaving you do have to shave twice, from the opposite angle. As in, if you shave from the top, you will need to shave from the bottom to hit both sides of the stem.
I used an art knife to shave off the unwanted excess plastic. This helps when you put keycaps back on so they sit properly.
I will be buying a stack with handles as these work and ultimately do exactly what I need.
Looking through your pictures, the amount shaved off does seem to be a bit excessive. In which orientation are you using the stemshaver? The open slot should be facing north/south.
[/quote]
Yeah same situation. When shaving, initially I tested it by pressing down from the top, this left some sides unshaved. I found it easier to shave the stems applying force from the bottom, then top, to shave both stems.
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Fri, 28 December 2018, 14:35:57
Post by: 82d28a on Wed, 09 January 2019, 16:43:49
Post by: apossardt on Thu, 10 January 2019, 00:07:02
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Post by: 82d28a on Mon, 14 January 2019, 16:08:43
Post by: gutsack on Thu, 17 January 2019, 21:42:50
Post by: thearctican on Fri, 18 January 2019, 09:33:00
Post by: Techno Trousers on Fri, 18 January 2019, 21:26:06
Has this died?Death by a thousand stem shavings.
I hope it's just bring perfected and still going forward.
Post by: lutchbu on Sun, 20 January 2019, 14:53:57
Has this died?
Not dead yet, just put a bit on the backburner over the holidays.
There will be an update soonish.
Post by: GigaFlop on Mon, 21 January 2019, 18:51:16
Has this died?
Not dead yet, just put a bit on the backburner over the holidays.
There will be an update soonish.
Looking forward to the update. My Mitolet set has been waiting to be used safely <3
Post by: roostrc0gburn on Mon, 21 January 2019, 21:28:04
Has this died?
Not dead yet, just put a bit on the backburner over the holidays.
There will be an update soonish.
Looking forward to the update. My Mitolet set has been waiting to be used safely <3
same. been waiting for this to put box royals in my purple ares... if anyone has one of the prototype shavers pls contact me!
Post by: Kavik on Thu, 24 January 2019, 19:49:48
Has this died?
Not dead yet, just put a bit on the backburner over the holidays.
There will be an update soonish.
Looking forward to the update. My Mitolet set has been waiting to be used safely <3
same. been waiting for this to put box royals in my purple ares... if anyone has one of the prototype shavers pls contact me!
An IC for a competing product is now on Reddit and Keebtalk. Looks like a race to GB now.
Post by: Geroximo on Sat, 26 January 2019, 13:26:16
An IC for a competing product is now on Reddit and Keebtalk. Looks like a race to GB now.The demand is high. I can't wait to actually put keycaps on my BOX blacks again.
Post by: GigaFlop on Tue, 29 January 2019, 18:02:00
Has this died?
Not dead yet, just put a bit on the backburner over the holidays.
There will be an update soonish.
Looking forward to the update. My Mitolet set has been waiting to be used safely <3
same. been waiting for this to put box royals in my purple ares... if anyone has one of the prototype shavers pls contact me!
An IC for a competing product is now on Reddit and Keebtalk. Looks like a race to GB now.
Can you link or PM me the reddit post?
Post by: ideus on Wed, 30 January 2019, 10:24:47
Has this died?
Not dead yet, just put a bit on the backburner over the holidays.
There will be an update soonish.
Looking forward to the update. My Mitolet set has been waiting to be used safely <3
same. been waiting for this to put box royals in my purple ares... if anyone has one of the prototype shavers pls contact me!
An IC for a competing product is now on Reddit and Keebtalk. Looks like a race to GB now.
Can you link or PM me the reddit post?
Would like to get the link as well.
Post by: euphxenos on Wed, 30 January 2019, 12:42:37
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ag0ln0/interest_check_the_cruciformer_the_tool_for/
https://www.keebtalk.com/t/ic-the-cruciformer-a-tool-for-fixing-mx-stems/4653
Post by: ChitownM2 on Wed, 30 January 2019, 14:32:09
Post by: ideus on Wed, 30 January 2019, 17:46:15
Post by: Starius on Thu, 28 February 2019, 21:23:50
Post by: Bleddyn on Fri, 01 March 2019, 11:55:18
Post by: lutchbu on Thu, 21 March 2019, 11:14:28
UPDATE 3 (finally)
OVERVIEW
testresults, i've been takling to a cnc shop and decided to drop the artisan idea
TESTRESULTS
- design: Material will be steel and the stemshaver does not need a bevel. No bevel would cut costs by ~25% but means that there might be a slightly higher force required to operate
- function: Prototypes produced the desired results but had to be applied a second time rotated 180°. This is due to my milling setup and should not be an issue with the ones produced by the cnc shop.
- durability: Prototypes were tested on up to 200 switches with minimal to no wear observed
PRICE
Current estimate is 10-18 USD for the regular version, depending on quantity.
and now?
I'm not quite sure how to proceed from here to be honest. Ideally, I would want to send out a batch of prototypes made by the cnc shop to test them out. However I do not have the means to finance a small prototype run.
So... any advice?
Post by: dyrdevil on Thu, 21 March 2019, 11:32:36
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Thu, 21 March 2019, 11:50:00
If the CNC shop can make the shavers better than the original prototypes were done, you will have a great product on hand. Also do not remove the bevel/chamfer as that actually helps as it makes it a blade rather than a cold extrusion(pushing a material through a form to reshape whilst at room temp). Blades are way more effective at shaving given the fact the form would more than likely deform if there was no bevel/chamfer and cut much wider than desired, while blades won't.
Post by: roostrc0gburn on Thu, 21 March 2019, 12:25:19
Post by: ChitownM2 on Fri, 22 March 2019, 21:55:47
At $10-15 I'm definitely in for being a part of a small group of guinea pigs to try it out and see if there are any issues if you want to go that route before launching a large GB order.
Post by: bunanapeel on Sat, 23 March 2019, 10:42:55
Post by: ideus on Sat, 23 March 2019, 11:06:36
Post by: roostrc0gburn on Sun, 24 March 2019, 00:18:46
Can use 100 light blues box SW for testing your device. Offer a well documented report.
same. i have 100 box royals (old stem design). i would assume if there are multiple testers, a general form is better for everyone to share results. we could collaborate through a google doc or something similar
Post by: gutsack on Sun, 24 March 2019, 13:25:15
Post by: Starius on Sun, 24 March 2019, 13:36:26
I have all these, and then some!
Get me a Stemshaver, STAT!
:thumb:
Post by: voight-kampff on Sun, 24 March 2019, 14:21:51
Sent from my MIX using Tapatalk
Post by: ideus on Sun, 24 March 2019, 21:13:53
Can use 100 light blues box SW for testing your device. Offer a well documented report.
same. i have 100 box royals (old stem design). i would assume if there are multiple testers, a general form is better for everyone to share results. we could collaborate through a google doc or something similar
Excellent idea. Having the same report makes results comparable.
Post by: roostrc0gburn on Sun, 24 March 2019, 23:39:24
Can use 100 light blues box SW for testing your device. Offer a well documented report.
same. i have 100 box royals (old stem design). i would assume if there are multiple testers, a general form is better for everyone to share results. we could collaborate through a google doc or something similar
Excellent idea. Having the same report makes results comparable.
(https://media.giphy.com/media/T2lUjGdArRxQs/giphy.gif)
Post by: LightningXI on Mon, 25 March 2019, 02:00:56
Post by: jobicoppola on Wed, 27 March 2019, 06:48:35
Post by: lutchbu on Fri, 29 March 2019, 11:40:14
...Also do not remove the bevel/chamfer as that actually helps as it makes it a blade rather than a cold extrusion(pushing a material through a form to reshape whilst at room temp). Blades are way more effective at shaving given the fact the form would more than likely deform if there was no bevel/chamfer and cut much wider than desired, while blades won't.You are right, a bevel would be more efficient. Hence why the flat version requires a bit more force to operate. But the test results indicate that both versions are equally effective and produce the desired results.
There are several reasons why I think the flat version would be good enough or maybe even better:
- With a flat top it is less likely to shave off too much if the stemshaver is not used perfectly straight as the edges can't dig in as easily
- The flat version should be more durable than the beveled version since there is more material to support the cutting edge
- A flat top is easier to manufacture and therefore less expensive
Post by: ideus on Fri, 29 March 2019, 14:25:07
...Also do not remove the bevel/chamfer as that actually helps as it makes it a blade rather than a cold extrusion(pushing a material through a form to reshape whilst at room temp). Blades are way more effective at shaving given the fact the form would more than likely deform if there was no bevel/chamfer and cut much wider than desired, while blades won't.You are right, a bevel would be more efficient. Hence why the flat version requires a bit more force to operate. But the test results indicate that both versions are equally effective and produce the desired results.
There are several reasons why I think the flat version would be good enough or maybe even better:
- With a flat top it is less likely to shave off too much if the stemshaver is not used perfectly straight as the edges can't dig in as easily
- The flat version should be more durable than the beveled version since there is more material to support the cutting edge
- A flat top is easier to manufacture and therefore less expensive
The reasoning given is sound. Being a manufacturing engineer I can confirm the logic.
Post by: fireworm on Fri, 29 March 2019, 22:17:00
Post by: Techno Trousers on Thu, 04 April 2019, 23:27:54
Post by: mmd1990 on Mon, 08 April 2019, 04:54:11
Got 200 switches
Post by: binxberry on Wed, 10 April 2019, 13:16:40
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Allo on Sun, 05 May 2019, 18:28:47
Post by: crzone on Mon, 06 May 2019, 14:10:43
Post by: sevenseacat on Tue, 07 May 2019, 01:13:12
Post by: Starius on Tue, 07 May 2019, 07:10:20
I've bought a Cruciformer as well. Been waiting for this for way too long.
Have you gotten yours yet? I don't know if I ever saw when they were expected to be due.
Post by: crzone on Tue, 07 May 2019, 11:04:04
A quote from a post made yesterday on reddit:
"I'm working with a tentative shipping date of May 18th as we've got bubble mailers, labels, materials, and all that sorted out, I think."
Post by: Starius on Tue, 07 May 2019, 14:50:48
They haven't shipped yet.According to a post by rudbear dated May 4th, if all goes well it should ship next week. I assume that proxies will need additional time, so one extra week on top of the initial ship date maybe.
A quote from a post made yesterday on reddit:
"I'm working with a tentative shipping date of May 18th as we've got bubble mailers, labels, materials, and all that sorted out, I think."
Ah cool, thanks for sharing the update! 👍
Post by: victorpre on Tue, 14 May 2019, 07:13:04
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Post by: roostrc0gburn on Tue, 01 October 2019, 10:04:11
Post by: heavyheaded on Tue, 01 October 2019, 11:08:53
this dead?
Seems to be. The cruciformer did get produced and I have some, but I'm not sure what the status of this pre-order is on their page. https://rudbeardesign.myshopify.com/
Post by: mmd1990 on Wed, 13 November 2019, 15:43:30
If anyone has a prototype they no longer use and want to sell it?
Post by: d.caminero on Fri, 15 November 2019, 04:13:34
Post by: Fantaku on Sat, 12 December 2020, 08:22:32
Post by: Ella on Sat, 08 May 2021, 16:06:56
Post by: dyrdevil on Sat, 08 May 2021, 23:52:21
Post by: Kavik on Sun, 09 May 2021, 01:17:20
+1. still looking for one.
Were these ever sold, and is it possible to buy one now? I have some very tight MX Clears that I want to make less tight.
I ended up getting the Cruciformer (https://rudbeardesign.myshopify.com/products/cruciformer). It's currently out of stock, but you may be able to get in contact with the maker to ask about it. I may have done something wrong, but it actually cut my box switches a little too much, so some types of keycaps are loose instead of too tight, but at least it exists unlike the item in this thread.
Post by: Ella on Sun, 09 May 2021, 01:52:30
Thanks, I'll check it out+1. still looking for one.Were these ever sold, and is it possible to buy one now? I have some very tight MX Clears that I want to make less tight.
I ended up getting the Cruciformer (https://rudbeardesign.myshopify.com/products/cruciformer). It's currently out of stock, but you may be able to get in contact with the maker to ask about it. I may have done something wrong, but it actually cut my box switches a little too much, so some types of keycaps are loose instead of too tight, but at least it exists unlike the item in this thread.
Sent from my M2007J20CG using Tapatalk
Post by: ReverbSlush on Tue, 11 May 2021, 06:23:57