Octagon V2 75% Kustom Keyboard Group Buy (Closed for Orders)

[MrRooks]

Hey sorry if this was answered earlier, but:

Does your top plate allow opening switches without desoldering?
Is there only a winkeyless layout or I can have a winkey bottom row? found a winkey here

And also:

MX PCB + Plate - $72 USD

Means ordering one more set of PCB+plate on top of original order?

And Micro-USB or Mini-USB?

It doesn't allow switch top removal. There are a bunch of bottom row options,look at the pics in the first post, one of them shows the bottom row configurations. Yeah that cost is for an extra plate and pcb on top of your order.

[apolotary]

Hey sorry if this was answered earlier, but:

Does your top plate allow opening switches without desoldering?
Is there only a winkeyless layout or I can have a winkey bottom row? found a winkey here

And also:

MX PCB + Plate - $72 USD

Means ordering one more set of PCB+plate on top of original order?

And Micro-USB or Mini-USB?

It doesn't allow switch top removal. There are a bunch of bottom row options,look at the pics in the first post, one of them shows the bottom row configurations. Yeah that cost is for an extra plate and pcb on top of your order.

Thanks! I'll wait for the next iteration with removable switch tops then

[E3E]

The v2 is definitely going to dwarf the popularity of the v1. Hehe. It's going to be interesting to see this take off. Jeez. 72 and it hasn't even been up for a day yet. Crazy stuff. The first one only had like 27 orders and 35 individual boards sold.

LOOKS LIKE I HAVE THE RARE FIRST EDITION RED MODEL AWW YE.

Silver was the least common color from v1. Then red, then black, then blue grey. Blue grey was the most popular color in the first Octagon GB.

5 Silver | 7 Red | 9 Black | 14 Blue Grey

[Steezus]

The v2 is definitely going to dwarf the popularity of the v1. Hehe. It's going to be interesting to see this take off. Jeez. 72 and it hasn't even been up for a day yet. Crazy stuff. The first one only had like 27 orders and 35 individual boards sold.

LOOKS LIKE I HAVE THE RARE FIRST EDITION RED MODEL AWW YE.

Silver was the least common color from v1. Then red, then black, then blue grey. Blue grey was the most popular color in the first Octagon GB.

5 Silver | 7 Red | 9 Black | 14 Blue Grey

People shouldn't collect boards because of reality, that's the wrong attitude imo. Who cares how rare the board is, buy it to use it.

[KetchyKech]

pretty excited ~ as this is going to be first korean custom 
(been eyeing 75% keyboards for awhile now)

I wonder if the butterfly numpad will ever make another round  !!!  I sure hope so

Could definitely use that 

[cirrus82]

Ugh. Thank goodness I saw this late. My wallet is at a bit of an ease, for now.

Just ordered three of these. I'm numb from the joy and pain.

That's a little...bogus. But I guess there's no limit.   

75% is the best layout for me, needed one for work and home. Third is a special gift.

[KetchyKech]

bah ~ i'm a little conflicted -- I lean towards tactile switches, but I do own boards w/ linear switches (and enjoy them as well)

Is having a steel plate w/ tactile switches not an ideal circumstance? I know this kind of determination can get rather subjective, and I've read many opinions that advocate for the usage of tactiles on aluminum plates ("for the feel"), but it made me wonder if difference was really all that significant. Any input is appreciated!

[Dreamre]

bah ~ i'm a little conflicted -- I lean towards tactile switches, but I do own boards w/ linear switches (and enjoy them as well)

Is having a steel plate w/ tactile switches not an ideal circumstance? I know this kind of determination can get rather subjective, and I've read many opinions that advocate for the usage of tactiles on aluminum plates ("for the feel"), but it made me wonder if difference was really all that significant. Any input is appreciated!

I picked aluminium as I find the stainless steel ones easier to scratch. The aluminium ones have a sandblasted finish while the steel ones have a brushed finish. I hope this helps!

[KetchyKech]

bah ~ i'm a little conflicted -- I lean towards tactile switches, but I do own boards w/ linear switches (and enjoy them as well)

Is having a steel plate w/ tactile switches not an ideal circumstance? I know this kind of determination can get rather subjective, and I've read many opinions that advocate for the usage of tactiles on aluminum plates ("for the feel"), but it made me wonder if difference was really all that significant. Any input is appreciated!

I picked aluminium as I find the stainless steel ones easier to scratch. The aluminium ones have a sandblasted finish while the steel ones have a brushed finish. I hope this helps!

certainly a factor to consider, thank you! I simply chose steel plate because I selected the acrylic bottom and wanted to add some weight --it wasn't until later that I thought about how it would affect the feel of certain switch-types

[64rky]

bah ~ i'm a little conflicted -- I lean towards tactile switches, but I do own boards w/ linear switches (and enjoy them as well)

Is having a steel plate w/ tactile switches not an ideal circumstance? I know this kind of determination can get rather subjective, and I've read many opinions that advocate for the usage of tactiles on aluminum plates ("for the feel"), but it made me wonder if difference was really all that significant. Any input is appreciated!

I picked aluminium as I find the stainless steel ones easier to scratch. The aluminium ones have a sandblasted finish while the steel ones have a brushed finish. I hope this helps!

certainly a factor to consider, thank you! I simply chose steel plate because I selected the acrylic bottom and wanted to add some weight --it wasn't until later that I thought about how it would affect the feel of certain switch-types

I never thought of this,  mainly because I'm a n00b.  So how exactly does each plate type affect the feel? I ordered aluminum??

[KetchyKech]

bah ~ i'm a little conflicted -- I lean towards tactile switches, but I do own boards w/ linear switches (and enjoy them as well)

Is having a steel plate w/ tactile switches not an ideal circumstance? I know this kind of determination can get rather subjective, and I've read many opinions that advocate for the usage of tactiles on aluminum plates ("for the feel"), but it made me wonder if difference was really all that significant. Any input is appreciated!

I picked aluminium as I find the stainless steel ones easier to scratch. The aluminium ones have a sandblasted finish while the steel ones have a brushed finish. I hope this helps!

certainly a factor to consider, thank you! I simply chose steel plate because I selected the acrylic bottom and wanted to add some weight --it wasn't until later that I thought about how it would affect the feel of certain switch-types

I never thought of this,  mainly because I'm a n00b.  So how exactly does each plate type affect the feel? I ordered aluminum??

i'll let those with personal knowledge of differences weigh in, as I can only comment based on what i've read --
but apparently:

tactile switches --> aluminum plate
linear switches --> steel plate 

the reason I see the most pop up is that the rigidity of metals play a role in how it feels (e.g., how much flex you get if you bottom out) and there was some mention of how sounds resonate 

  no clue though, it may be so minor that one may hardly notice

someone guide us! 

[Steezus]

KetckhyKech you basically got the right idea. However I can guarantee you that the board itself will already weight a ton so opting for a steel plate just for the added weight isn't really a good idea.

A steel plate has the least amount of flex to it, which is what you want for linear switches to have a fluid motion of each key press without any additional "feedback".

An aluminum plate gives a slight bit of flex to it, which is good for tactile switches to help make the tactility more pronounced. Aluminum tends to give the best sound in terms of tactile switches.

An acrylic plate gives a fair bit of flex, it is best in terms of tactility and also my favorite. I have an acrylic plate with 65g Purple Zealios for my Orion v2 and the typing experience is heavenly. The sound is very muted though with the acrylic plate but another benefit is the even distribution of backlight.

[KetchyKech]

KetckhyKech you basically got the right idea. However I can guarantee you that the board itself will already weight a ton so opting for a steel plate just for the added weight isn't really a good idea.

A steel plate has the least amount of flex to it, which is what you want for linear switches to have a fluid motion of each key press without any additional "feedback".

An aluminum plate gives a slight bit of flex to it, which is good for tactile switches to help make the tactility more pronounced. Aluminum tends to give the best sound in terms of tactile switches.

An acrylic plate gives a fair bit of flex, it is best in terms of tactility and also my favorite. I have an acrylic plate with 65g Purple Zealios for my Orion v2 and the typing experience is heavenly. The sound is very muted though with the acrylic plate but another benefit is the even distribution of backlight.

Just what I was looking for, thank you kind sir! (your orion v2 sounds like a dream)

the reassurance on the weight put me at ease -- I'll have to decide if I want this to be a linear or tactile board after all 

[MrRooks]

KetckhyKech you basically got the right idea. However I can guarantee you that the board itself will already weight a ton so opting for a steel plate just for the added weight isn't really a good idea.

A steel plate has the least amount of flex to it, which is what you want for linear switches to have a fluid motion of each key press without any additional "feedback".

An aluminum plate gives a slight bit of flex to it, which is good for tactile switches to help make the tactility more pronounced. Aluminum tends to give the best sound in terms of tactile switches.

An acrylic plate gives a fair bit of flex, it is best in terms of tactility and also my favorite. I have an acrylic plate with 65g Purple Zealios for my Orion v2 and the typing experience is heavenly. The sound is very muted though with the acrylic plate but another benefit is the even distribution of backlight.

Just what I was looking for, thank you kind sir! (your orion v2 sounds like a dream)

the reassurance on the weight put me at ease -- I'll have to decide if I want this to be a linear or tactile board after all 

Even then it's still preference. I use linear switches and prefer an aluminum plate over steel.

[Steezus]

KetckhyKech you basically got the right idea. However I can guarantee you that the board itself will already weight a ton so opting for a steel plate just for the added weight isn't really a good idea.

A steel plate has the least amount of flex to it, which is what you want for linear switches to have a fluid motion of each key press without any additional "feedback".

An aluminum plate gives a slight bit of flex to it, which is good for tactile switches to help make the tactility more pronounced. Aluminum tends to give the best sound in terms of tactile switches.

An acrylic plate gives a fair bit of flex, it is best in terms of tactility and also my favorite. I have an acrylic plate with 65g Purple Zealios for my Orion v2 and the typing experience is heavenly. The sound is very muted though with the acrylic plate but another benefit is the even distribution of backlight.

Just what I was looking for, thank you kind sir! (your orion v2 sounds like a dream)

the reassurance on the weight put me at ease -- I'll have to decide if I want this to be a linear or tactile board after all 

No problem, glad to help out.

I personally always like to try out different switches when I get a new board, even though it's a little risky trying something new on such an expensive board. I know that I'm a tactile man myself so I just like to try all different variations of tactility. You can always order another set of PCB and plates to have the ability of swapping out between tactility and linear switches. However I do want to try out some Vintage Blacks on a steel plate but I'll most likely try that on a refurbished 1800 or something.

[digi]

Too bad the this don't havu the alps option   

+1, I'm almost happy or I would be throwing money at Elton (again =))

[romevi]

Too bad the this don't havu the alps option   

+1, I'm almost happy or I would be throwing money at Elton (again =))

This is why I'm glad I was late to the party. I would've impulsed-buy, even though I told myself beforehand I'd join only if Alps were available.
Looks like I can thank my tardiness that I can stick to my original game plan.

[GL1TCH3D]

pretty excited ~ as this is going to be first korean custom 
(been eyeing 75% keyboards for awhile now)

I wonder if the butterfly numpad will ever make another round  !!!  I sure hope so

Could definitely use that 

Jeez how many group buys are you in? =P

I can't really talk because I'm in both my own and this onw though...

[KetchyKech]

pretty excited ~ as this is going to be first korean custom 
(been eyeing 75% keyboards for awhile now)

I wonder if the butterfly numpad will ever make another round  !!!  I sure hope so

Could definitely use that 

Jeez how many group buys are you in? =P

I can't really talk because I'm in both my own and this onw though...

haha, ever since i joined geekhack my money seems to slowly be disappearing 

common side effect?

[gnarlsagan]

Hey sorry if this was answered earlier, but:

Does your top plate allow opening switches without desoldering?
Is there only a winkeyless layout or I can have a winkey bottom row? found a winkey here

And also:

MX PCB + Plate - $72 USD

Means ordering one more set of PCB+plate on top of original order?

And Micro-USB or Mini-USB?

It doesn't allow switch top removal. There are a bunch of bottom row options,look at the pics in the first post, one of them shows the bottom row configurations. Yeah that cost is for an extra plate and pcb on top of your order.

Woah no switch top removal? Is it possible to to modify the plate to allow switch top removal? This feature has come in super handy on my Red Scarf 84. 

[E3E]

The v2 is definitely going to dwarf the popularity of the v1. Hehe. It's going to be interesting to see this take off. Jeez. 72 and it hasn't even been up for a day yet. Crazy stuff. The first one only had like 27 orders and 35 individual boards sold.

LOOKS LIKE I HAVE THE RARE FIRST EDITION RED MODEL AWW YE.

Silver was the least common color from v1. Then red, then black, then blue grey. Blue grey was the most popular color in the first Octagon GB.

5 Silver | 7 Red | 9 Black | 14 Blue Grey

People shouldn't collect boards because of reality, that's the wrong attitude imo. Who cares how rare the board is, buy it to use it.

Lol, I was joking, mang. Though I legitimately find the stats of the original GB very interesting.

I buy all my boards out of personal visual appeal and functionality! Rarity is a nice thing to gawk about sometimes, but only out of coincidence. I don't like looking for things just out of rarity, there has to be a personal appeal to it beyond that.

But, if something just happens to be rare out of coincidence, I do have that happy dance time in my mind of having something that might be just a little unique! Hey I'm not rich, let me have mine. :PP You are the guy who has a ton of TKLs though, hahaha.

I am not so blessed. I make very calculated and frugal purchases. I can't just buy whatever I want--yet. Hehe. Not throwin' any shade though, Steez. You're an awesome dude. I just don't have the finances is all.

[Steezus]

The v2 is definitely going to dwarf the popularity of the v1. Hehe. It's going to be interesting to see this take off. Jeez. 72 and it hasn't even been up for a day yet. Crazy stuff. The first one only had like 27 orders and 35 individual boards sold.

LOOKS LIKE I HAVE THE RARE FIRST EDITION RED MODEL AWW YE.

Silver was the least common color from v1. Then red, then black, then blue grey. Blue grey was the most popular color in the first Octagon GB.

5 Silver | 7 Red | 9 Black | 14 Blue Grey

People shouldn't collect boards because of reality, that's the wrong attitude imo. Who cares how rare the board is, buy it to use it.

Lol, I was joking, mang. I buy all my boards out of personal visual appeal and functionality! Rarity is a nice thing to gawk about sometimes, but only out of coincidence. I don't like looking for things just out of rarity, there has to be a personal appeal to it beyond that.

But, if something just happens to be rare out of coincidence, I do have that happy dance time in my mind of having something that might be just a little unique! Hey I'm not rich, let me have mine. :PP You are they guy who has a ton of TKLs though, hahaha.

I am not so blessed. I make very calculated and frugal purchases. I can't just buy whatever I want--yet. Hehe. Not throwin' any shade though, Steez. You're an awesome dude. I just don't have the finances is all.

I wasn't accusing you or anything, but there is a lot of people that collect just for the sake of rarity here. If you're going to own a board then use it, otherwise it would be better off with somebody else that would enjoy it. I do have a fair bit of boards but I make sure they all see their use, hence why I'm trying to sell my RS96 since I feel that it doesn't get as much use as it should. I didn't mean anything rude either, I enjoy talking to you on here as well. I'm pretty broke now myself haha so I'm trying to just sell and use that money to buy more boards or items.

[E3E]

Hey sorry if this was answered earlier, but:

Does your top plate allow opening switches without desoldering?
Is there only a winkeyless layout or I can have a winkey bottom row? found a winkey here

And also:

MX PCB + Plate - $72 USD

Means ordering one more set of PCB+plate on top of original order?

And Micro-USB or Mini-USB?

It doesn't allow switch top removal. There are a bunch of bottom row options,look at the pics in the first post, one of them shows the bottom row configurations. Yeah that cost is for an extra plate and pcb on top of your order.

Woah no switch top removal? Is it possible to to modify the plate to allow switch top removal? This feature has come in super handy on my Red Scarf 84.

Duck has never offered this. LZ has on the other hand. If you want to take a diamond or carbide file to the notches for a good couple of hours, haha. Easiest route would be to use a custom designed plate. The lack of switch top removal is what made the last Octagon such a ***** for me to customize in the ideal way I wanted it to be. I had to desolder everything, and it was my first desolder job on a plate mounted board, let alone an expensive custom.

It was nearly traumatic for me.

I believe one difference from the original and this one is ISO support, I think.

I wasn't accusing you or anything, but there is a lot of people that collect just for the sake of rarity here. If you're going to own a board then use it, otherwise it would be better off with somebody else that would enjoy it. I do have a fair bit of boards but I make sure they all see their use, hence why I'm trying to sell my RS96 since I feel that it doesn't get as much use as it should. I didn't mean anything rude either, I enjoy talking to you on here as well. I'm pretty broke now myself haha so I'm trying to just sell and use that money to buy more boards or items.

Yeah, I see that a lot as well. People getting hype over getting a rare artisan just because its rare, or a certain board or key cap set, etc.  It's definitely not something I agree with either though. It should really have some real personal appeal beyond, oh look, it's scarce. Collector mentalities like that can be a little silly, I guess.

It's good that you rotate your boards! I try and do the same with my own, though this Hammer has become bound to my soul. It's hard to break a way from it for too long, though I do love showing love to all of mine! I have considered selling some, but sentimental value is what holds me back. Like, I haven't touched my v1 Octagon in a while because of the Hammer but with its custom designed hard carrying case and Lightpad companion, I feel like I can't separate them.

Yeah, I hear you on reselling to get new boards. I have a good share of blue Alps boards I could probably sell to get a good Korean custom or two, but I really like them, so it's probably not something I'd do, haha. I wanted to get two Octagon v2s, really, but I decided one is enough, and I'll be going with my original plan to match GMK SNES + clicky clear (vintage MX white), with zealio housings for that clicky RGB love.

I always go with the hot colors, or the cool blues, but I think a silver and grey board would be cool.

Course, this would bank on GMK SNES being successful on the relaunch.

I still think my idea for the SNES set in Famicom colors would be sick, but I don't know how I could set up a GB  for that, even though I'd love to.

[ctrlX]

Hold on now.. Does Octagon V2 have ISO support?

[darkclone24]

Hold on now.. Does Octagon V2 have ISO support?

The plate and PCB in the diagram can take an ISO Enter; however the PCB doesn't look like it will take a split Left Shift. The plate does, however, so it might just be US ISO layout, or the diagram may be wrong.

[dadoduk]

I am internation student in USA.

 Q1) Where is shipping area?
        . ex) From Canada to USA? or From Korea to USA

[duckness]

I am internation student in USA.

 Q1) Where is shipping area?
        . ex) From Canada to USA? or From Korea to USA

See:

Shipping

Shipping will be from South Korea with EMS.  Shipping cost will depend on your location.  Each set weighs about (TBD) kg with packaging. Click here to check your zone and Click here to check their prices in Korean Won

[Arvid]

Hold on now.. Does Octagon V2 have ISO support?

I messaged Elton about this, he said he would look into it but he believed it was only ANSI:/

[ctrlX]

Hold on now.. Does Octagon V2 have ISO support?

The plate and PCB in the diagram can take an ISO Enter; however the PCB doesn't look like it will take a split Left Shift. The plate does, however, so it might just be US ISO layout, or the diagram may be wrong.

Interesting. Oh well, if it would support international ISO that would just be a bonus. I was already dead set on it being my first ANSI board.

[Jumie]

is the spot still available?

[xondat]

is the spot still available?

You can put your name down and hope that he produces so many kits.

[merlin64]

So I'm a little confused, I unfortunately didn't make it in the first 30. What does that mean?

Does that mean i completely lost my chance?
If not, does it mean I'm in for round 2 (I'm 35), and if so are we still paying the same time as everyone?
Or, does it mean I'm gonna have to keep my eyes peeled and do a mad rush when r2 happens?

[ika]

So I'm a little confused, I unfortunately didn't make it in the first 30. What does that mean?

Does that mean i completely lost my chance?
If not, does it mean I'm in for round 2 (I'm 35), and if so are we still paying the same time as everyone?
Or, does it mean I'm gonna have to keep my eyes peeled and do a mad rush when r2 happens?

Limit of 30 sets for first round. If over, will take more time for the later orders.

[Jumie]

So I'm a little confused, I unfortunately didn't make it in the first 30. What does that mean?

Does that mean i completely lost my chance?
If not, does it mean I'm in for round 2 (I'm 35), and if so are we still paying the same time as everyone?
Or, does it mean I'm gonna have to keep my eyes peeled and do a mad rush when r2 happens?

how do u know u're 35? I'd like to know mine too..

[64rky]

So I'm a little confused, I unfortunately didn't make it in the first 30. What does that mean?

Does that mean i completely lost my chance?
If not, does it mean I'm in for round 2 (I'm 35), and if so are we still paying the same time as everyone?
Or, does it mean I'm gonna have to keep my eyes peeled and do a mad rush when r2 happens?

how do u know u're 35? I'd like to know mine too..

Google doc on OP.

[Jumie]

So I'm a little confused, I unfortunately didn't make it in the first 30. What does that mean?

Does that mean i completely lost my chance?
If not, does it mean I'm in for round 2 (I'm 35), and if so are we still paying the same time as everyone?
Or, does it mean I'm gonna have to keep my eyes peeled and do a mad rush when r2 happens?

how do u know u're 35? I'd like to know mine too..

Google doc on OP.

dang.. how could I missed that.. thanks

[c4103]

I'm in!  This will be my first custom and I'm super excited.  I guess I'm probably late to the party and it will take a while, but whatever.  That gives me more time to decide on switch choice and layout.

[64rky]

I'm in!  This will be my first custom and I'm super excited.  I guess I'm probably late to the party and it will take a while, but whatever.  That gives me more time to decide on switch choice and layout.

You have time to get on Zealios R2

[E3E]

So I'm a little confused, I unfortunately didn't make it in the first 30. What does that mean?

Does that mean i completely lost my chance?
If not, does it mean I'm in for round 2 (I'm 35), and if so are we still paying the same time as everyone?
Or, does it mean I'm gonna have to keep my eyes peeled and do a mad rush when r2 happens?

Limit of 30 sets for first round. If over, will take more time for the later orders.

Lol, and I think the form was only at around, I don't know, 15 when I first saw it, but I couldn't make up my mind and now I'm at 67.

I'm so surprised this is even more popular than the Orion v2, considering how low the sales were of the first Octagon. I do hope that I'm still able to have mine produced at order # 67.

Duck's getting good business!

[tadbitnerdy]

In!  I still haven't built my Lightsaver v2, or my Octogon v1.  I might need to sell these

[E3E]

In!  I still haven't built my Lightsaver v2, or my Octogon v1.  I might need to sell these

But what if you just end up not building your Octagon v2?

I have considered selling my v1, but I love the little "Octagon" nameplate too much. It'll be nice to compare the feels between the case-mounted PCB of the v1 versus the top bezel-mounted PCB of the v2 as well.

The v1 is just a solid hunk of aluminum, which is awesome in itself. There is as much charm over its simplicity as there is over the v2's complexity.

The fact the Octagon v1 was the first RGB duck board, too, is something I find awesome.

[slushi]

In!  I still haven't built my Lightsaver v2, or my Octogon v1.  I might need to sell these

But what if you just end up not building your Octagon v2?

I have considered selling my v1, but I love the little "Octagon" nameplate too much. It'll be nice to compare the feels between the case-mounted PCB of the v1 versus the top bezel-mounted PCB of the v2 as well.

The v1 is just a solid hunk of aluminum, which is awesome in itself. There is as much charm over its simplicity as there is over the v2's complexity.

The fact the Octagon v1 was the first RGB duck board, too, is something I find awesome.

Glad to see you got your next board lined up!

[Dreamre]

In!  I still haven't built my Lightsaver v2, or my Octogon v1.  I might need to sell these

But what if you just end up not building your Octagon v2?

I have considered selling my v1, but I love the little "Octagon" nameplate too much. It'll be nice to compare the feels between the case-mounted PCB of the v1 versus the top bezel-mounted PCB of the v2 as well.

The v1 is just a solid hunk of aluminum, which is awesome in itself. There is as much charm over its simplicity as there is over the v2's complexity.

The fact the Octagon v1 was the first RGB duck board, too, is something I find awesome.

E3E...stop trying to convince yourself that you don't want one. Deep down inside...you want one... )

[E3E]

In!  I still haven't built my Lightsaver v2, or my Octogon v1.  I might need to sell these

But what if you just end up not building your Octagon v2?

I have considered selling my v1, but I love the little "Octagon" nameplate too much. It'll be nice to compare the feels between the case-mounted PCB of the v1 versus the top bezel-mounted PCB of the v2 as well.

The v1 is just a solid hunk of aluminum, which is awesome in itself. There is as much charm over its simplicity as there is over the v2's complexity.

The fact the Octagon v1 was the first RGB duck board, too, is something I find awesome.

Glad to see you got your next board lined up!

Haha, yep! I've been waiting for this one for a while now! Still on the fence on whether or not I want to add a flat acrylic bottom to my order, but we have time.

[mrboovn]

In!  I still haven't built my Lightsaver v2, or my Octogon v1.  I might need to sell these

just let me know if you wanna sell your lightsaver

[64rky]

Another n00b question incoming:
- which LEDs should I buy for this,  or rather any board?  Or rather,  what are the specs of the LEDs I'd buy?
- are the bottom LEDs of this board RGB,  or do we need to order those?

Yup,  more than one Q,  might be even more coming  

[Steezus]

Another n00b question incoming:
- which LEDs should I buy for this,  or rather any board?  Or rather,  what are the specs of the LEDs I'd buy?
- are the bottom LEDs of this board RGB,  or do we need to order those?

Yup,  more than one Q,  might be even more coming

2x3x4mm LEDs are generally the best for in switch LEDs. For anyone that doesn't want switch backlighting you will still need to supply your own LEDs for the indicators.

The RGB LEDs are supplied and presoldered on the underside of the PCB so there will be no work needed there.

[E3E]

In!  I still haven't built my Lightsaver v2, or my Octogon v1.  I might need to sell these

But what if you just end up not building your Octagon v2?

I have considered selling my v1, but I love the little "Octagon" nameplate too much. It'll be nice to compare the feels between the case-mounted PCB of the v1 versus the top bezel-mounted PCB of the v2 as well.

The v1 is just a solid hunk of aluminum, which is awesome in itself. There is as much charm over its simplicity as there is over the v2's complexity.

The fact the Octagon v1 was the first RGB duck board, too, is something I find awesome.

E3E...stop trying to convince yourself that you don't want one. Deep down inside...you want one... )

Oh I'm down for at least one! Haha, though I'd love to get as many as you though, or at least a second order in red with the flat acrylic bottom.

You though, you've got bases loaded!

Another n00b question incoming:
- which LEDs should I buy for this,  or rather any board?  Or rather,  what are the specs of the LEDs I'd buy?
- are the bottom LEDs of this board RGB,  or do we need to order those?

Yup,  more than one Q,  might be even more coming

I generally agree with what Steezus here. The only problem with 2x3x4mm LEDs is that they can impede the travel of thick low profile caps (ala Cherry profile), so you have to keep that in mind.

Some people actually put these inside the switch housings for a more diffused look--that would also get past the travel issues they might causes. Otherwise you could use 1.8mm LEDs or do what LastPilot did for his LZ and sand down the tops of the LEDs a bit to allow clearance.

[Steezus]

Another n00b question incoming:
- which LEDs should I buy for this,  or rather any board?  Or rather,  what are the specs of the LEDs I'd buy?
- are the bottom LEDs of this board RGB,  or do we need to order those?

Yup,  more than one Q,  might be even more coming

I generally agree with what Steezus here. The only problem with 2x3x4mm LEDs is that they can impede the travel of thick low profile caps (ala Cherry profile), so you have to keep that in mind.

Some people actually put these inside the switch housings for a more diffused look--that would also get past the travel issues they might causes. Otherwise you could use 1.8mm LEDs or do what LastPilot did for his LZ and sand down the tops of the LEDs a bit to allow clearance.

Sanding down the LEDs is really easy to do and a nice fix if you find any caps rubbing. I for one have never had a problem with them other than some artisans, so I would just sand down the few that needed it. The light bleed fix that I did on Jane can prove to be a problem if not done right and caps can then rub and get stuck but that too was an easy fix as well.

[xondat]

Just want to clarify - I was the 14th to submit the form, am I allowed to change the options?