How long is the buy going to be open for?The buy will be open until the end of the 25th BST so 1 week.
Do you have pictures of the different bases? I'm struggling to visualise them. Preferably from side and underneath
Will you be posting a running count or something? Depending on how many orders come in I may spring for the full size base, but hitting that 50 moq will be the deciding factor.
Also, can you post some estimated shipping costs to a few destinations? US being the one I'm most interested in.
Will you be posting a running count or something? Depending on how many orders come in I may spring for the full size base, but hitting that 50 moq will be the deciding factor.
Also, can you post some estimated shipping costs to a few destinations? US being the one I'm most interested in.
I share the same concern here. It's a bit of a harder pill to swallow at MOQ 20. I'd be much more likely to join if I had a better idea of the count.
Will you be posting a running count or something? Depending on how many orders come in I may spring for the full size base, but hitting that 50 moq will be the deciding factor.
Also, can you post some estimated shipping costs to a few destinations? US being the one I'm most interested in.
I share the same concern here. It's a bit of a harder pill to swallow at MOQ 20. I'd be much more likely to join if I had a better idea of the count.
None for the full base.Do you have pictures of the different bases? I'm struggling to visualise them. Preferably from side and underneath
There should be some pics in the IC thread
None for the full base.Do you have pictures of the different bases? I'm struggling to visualise them. Preferably from side and underneath
There should be some pics in the IC thread
Also, is this tray mount or the sandwich design like in TX customs?
What is a blank pcb? Like without resistors and diodes?
None for the full base.Do you have pictures of the different bases? I'm struggling to visualise them. Preferably from side and underneath
There should be some pics in the IC thread
Also, is this tray mount or the sandwich design like in TX customs?
I will add renders of the various base options soon, currently unpacking my computer which they are stored on. The construction is similar to Duck keyboards with the plate screwed into the top case.
Would you recommend the dark blue or orange to pair with the gmk Yuri? Looking for suggestions.
Are all of the bases going to be silver or is it possible to have them anodized to match the rest of the case? Didn't think about this when looking at the earlier renders.
Does the Universal MX plate allow for HHKB layout, or will I need to put "custom" for the order?
Also is there a choice on color for the plate?
Sorry for the all questions, new at ordering through Geekhack :D
Does the Universal MX plate allow for HHKB layout, or will I need to put "custom" for the order?
Also is there a choice on color for the plate?
Sorry for the all questions, new at ordering through Geekhack :D
Yeah, some pictures similar to this would be useful
Are all of the bases going to be silver or is it possible to have them anodized to match the rest of the case? Didn't think about this when looking at the earlier renders.
The quote has been for silver only, however I don't believe colour matching the base will affect the price if that is desired.
How long will the buy be open. On vacation and want to wait until next week
No renders of the full bottom? Why is there no covering on the bottom of the case in the interest check?Renders are said to be coming. Bottom is clear acrylic or frosted acrylic? Supposed to be an open underside design to see the PCB. Personally, getting no feet or full case seems the best economic option. Comes out to like $210. Just would need to keep the board on a mat to not scratch the aluminum and anodizing.
Am I missing something?
No renders of the full bottom? Why is there no covering on the bottom of the case in the interest check?Renders are said to be coming. Bottom is clear acrylic or frosted acrylic? Supposed to be an open underside design to see the PCB. Personally, getting no feet or full case seems the best economic option. Comes out to like $210. Just would need to keep the board on a mat to not scratch the aluminum and anodizing.
Am I missing something?
Will the acrylic diffuser / base come with holes for standard aluminum feet that work with most other boards?
Wow this layout will look fantastic with accent arrow keys.I believe that 8weeks is a realistic timeframe for me to receive the parts, QC them and prepare them for shipping. In regards to the PCB the issues found during prototyping were identified and fixed, I received the final PCB design that will be ordered in the GB today and so I am currently soldering and programming the board.
Only questions I have are -- please understand as it's a completely new design and a new GB -- what the level of confidence is to deliver it without much delay. In the IC thread I can still see the PCB tests are not checked so would like to know if we have fixed any issue found in the sample.
Personally, getting no feet or full case seems the best economic option. Comes out to like $210. Just would need to keep the board on a mat to not scratch the aluminum and anodizing.
New renders look really nice! Two questions:
- Are the slits at the ends of the fullsize base the opening for LED underglow?
- What color would you recommend for GMK Solarized Dark? This decision is going to kill me. Every color just looks so nice
Order submitted. Is there any conformation?
Order submitted! It's been a couple years since I've done LEDs on a board. Would 2x3x4mm rectangle work fine for the switches and pcb base diffuser?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Order submitted! It's been a couple years since I've done LEDs on a board. Would 2x3x4mm rectangle work fine for the switches and pcb base diffuser?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The only compatibility issues would be between keycaps and leds, many people recommend 1.8mm leds as they work with GMK keycaps. I have no experience with 2x3x4mm leds.
I can't decide between 1800 and fjell :'(
New renders look really nice! Two questions:
- Are the slits at the ends of the fullsize base the opening for LED underglow?
- What color would you recommend for GMK Solarized Dark? This decision is going to kill me. Every color just looks so nice
- The slits are to let some light out from the LED Underglow.
- I think the Dark Blue would work well with that set.
New renders look really nice! Two questions:
- Are the slits at the ends of the fullsize base the opening for LED underglow?
- What color would you recommend for GMK Solarized Dark? This decision is going to kill me. Every color just looks so nice
- The slits are to let some light out from the LED Underglow.
- I think the Dark Blue would work well with that set.
Thanks! Will I need to do additional soldering for the underglow, or do those underglow LEDs come presoldered to the PCB? Sorry, still very new to this.
Order submitted! It's been a couple years since I've done LEDs on a board. Would 2x3x4mm rectangle work fine for the switches and pcb base diffuser?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The only compatibility issues would be between keycaps and leds, many people recommend 1.8mm leds as they work with GMK keycaps. I have no experience with 2x3x4mm leds.
Good to know, I'm looking at getting my first GMK set so I'll stick with 1.8mm!
One last question, and sorry if this has been answered, but what firmware is on the UK78 for programming? Is it TMK, EasyAVR, dfu-util? This weekend I want to work on getting the rest of the parts and get the programming portion done/ready! :D
Have you posted this to facebook groups/reddit? And possibly considered leaving it running for 2 weeks instead of 1?
Order submitted! It's been a couple years since I've done LEDs on a board. Would 2x3x4mm rectangle work fine for the switches and pcb base diffuser?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The only compatibility issues would be between keycaps and leds, many people recommend 1.8mm leds as they work with GMK keycaps. I have no experience with 2x3x4mm leds.
When does this group buy close? (Sorry if I'm just being blind)
How long is the buy going to be open for?The buy will be open until the end of the 25th BST so 1 week.
Cheers.When does this group buy close? (Sorry if I'm just being blind)How long is the buy going to be open for?The buy will be open until the end of the 25th BST so 1 week.
Trying to decide what color to get based on what keyset I'm going to pair with it. Considering N9 grey, black or silver.
Right now I've got /dev/tty Adler, Yuri, Dasher & Dancer & oblivion GMK on order that would fit this board. What's everyone's suggestions?
Trying to decide what color to get based on what keyset I'm going to pair with it. Considering N9 grey, black or silver.
Right now I've got /dev/tty Adler, Yuri, Dasher & Dancer & oblivion GMK on order that would fit this board. What's everyone's suggestions?
I want blue and black. But too expensive. Hrm. Think I'll go blue as originally planned. If 1800 case doesn't hit MOQ will you allow people to switch over to fjell style.
Going to go with Dk Grey.If something doesn't hit MOQ then I will give people the choice of swapping to something that did or canceling their order.I want blue and black. But too expensive. Hrm. Think I'll go blue as originally planned. If 1800 case doesn't hit MOQ will you allow people to switch over to fjell style.
I certainly hope so. I'm liking the 1800 as well, but want to end up with something if it doesn't hit MOQ.
There is no moq for color is there?
On the confirmed orders list the username background color is just a differentiator for the user's preferred community (GH, Reddit, etc.)? Or something else?
wondering will the fullsize base also has a degree like the pair of feet do?
As per current orders, the 1800 case is just two shy of making MOQ. If two more don't appear before the intended deadline would it be feasible to extend the ordering period for a few days to lets us who prefer the 1800 try and get a few more folks to buy that case variant?
I understand if that is not wanted or possible. I just really really prefer the 1800 look over the Fjell look. ;)
How are the other MOQs holding up? Fjell-style has reached MOQ at least. Are the different plates MOQ-reliant?
... snip ...
Since they are so close I will be extending the Group Buy until Wednesday Midnight BST this should give me time to start the orders to the manufacturers before the weekend.
I want to change my order. But, how?
which kind of aluminium will be used? 6063?
I have sent you a PM on geekhack regarding your order, check your messages.
Entered last night after waiting forever. Very excited. If the full base is 1-2 from moq I could be convinced to upgrade. Let me know if it's getting down to the wire on weds.Eh, might as well just go for the full base if you want it. If it doesn't meet MOQ then rozakiin will contact you to see if you want to cancel or swap to the feet
Entered last night after waiting forever. Very excited. If the full base is 1-2 from moq I could be convinced to upgrade. Let me know if it's getting down to the wire on weds.Eh, might as well just go for the full base if you want it. If it doesn't meet MOQ then rozakiin will contact you to see if you want to cancel or swap to the feet
I see in the ordersheet that some people have feet color specified. I assumed they would match the selected case color by default. It's that correct?
Oh man, a Norwich Custom. I think I might have to get on board with this. Is it actually being made in the U.K. (I presume not)? And is the acrylic diffuser clear or frosted (clear would look fresh)?
Is there a chance for a price drop if we hit 50 cases? Currently if we don't hit the 20 moq for the 1800 case we would have 50 fjell. Hitting a cheaper price point would certainly soften the blow for anyone who has to go with their second choice.
Is there an image of the default alps plate, I may have be misunderstanding the stabilizer situation. It's tricky to get keycaps for alps that are compatible with cherry pcb stabs, no? (aside from some modern taihao/granite sets, that is)
Awesome! Thank you and thank the manufacturer on our behalf too. :)... snip ...
The 1800 case will be produced at the current number of orders at the same price so no need to worry.
Any update on the manufacturer forgiving the MOQ on the full base?
The Fjell version is not ugly per se in my opinion, but I really do prefer harder edges and simpler shapes. :P
1800 is being producedThe Fjell version is not ugly per se in my opinion, but I really do prefer harder edges and simpler shapes. :P
Same. It's a shame that we're only two away from MOQ on the 1800 version. So close yet so far. It's been that way for a few days too, so I'm losing hope. I really do prefer the 1800 style much more, but I suppose I can settle for Fjell if it's the only option.
1800 is being produced
Any update on the manufacturer forgiving the MOQ on the full base?
Hopefully I will get a reply later today or tomorrow.
Excited to get this in hand although my keyset won't show up for at least twice as long. Thanks for being very responsive during the IC and gb phases.
Any update on the manufacturer forgiving the MOQ on the full base?
Hopefully I will get a reply later today or tomorrow.
Have you heard anything regarding the full size base? Sorry if I missed an update.
Oh man, a Norwich Custom. I think I might have to get on board with this. Is it actually being made in the U.K. (I presume not)? And is the acrylic diffuser clear or frosted (clear would look fresh)?
Plates and diffuser are made in the UK but the pcb and case are made in Shenzen and the diffuser is clear so you can see the PCB when not using the full base.
Any update on the manufacturer forgiving the MOQ on the full base?
Hopefully I will get a reply later today or tomorrow.
Have you heard anything regarding the full size base? Sorry if I missed an update.Show Image(https://morbotron.com/gif/S06E01/93760/96054.gif?b64lines=R29vZCBuZXdzLCBldmVyeW9uZSE=)
The Full Base can be manufactured!
Yepp, same here. Some questions, though:
1. Is it possible to request invoice in specific currency (i.e. USD for me)?
2. Will the invoice include shipping cost or there will be separate invoice for delivery after batch will be on hands?
I didn't join in the end although it took all my willpower not to. Keyboard spending is through the roof at the moment. I know I'm gonna regret it. Hope the manufacturing goes super smooth though, and I look forward to seeing everyone's builds (and probably begging for a kit in the aftermarket...).
I think this is the first time that I'll be paying an invoice that isn't listed as USD. How does it work? Does Paypal do the conversion for me with a small fee on top?
I think this is the first time that I'll be paying an invoice that isn't listed as USD. How does it work? Does Paypal do the conversion for me with a small fee on top?
Yes that should be how it is handled by Paypal,
I think this is the first time that I'll be paying an invoice that isn't listed as USD. How does it work? Does Paypal do the conversion for me with a small fee on top?
Yes that should be how it is handled by Paypal,
if you have a credit card on paypal, it can sometimes be cheaper to let your credit card company do the conversion instead of paypal (about 1-2%), its a setting in your paypal options
Wait a minute, assuming I ordered the brass plate for MX switches, will the plate support all the layout options from the posted KLE page or should I have sent a custom layout with my order to pick one of those? Just checking.
So invoices are going out?
... snip ...
The universal plate supports all those layouts for MX
Invoice received and paid. The shipping invoice will be sent after you receive the hardware and check the condition of the items?
Paid as well.
Now to order switches/stabs...
Is the PCB’s USB connector Micro, Mini, or C? Can’t see anything about it on mobile.
Is the PCB’s USB connector Micro, Mini, or C? Can’t see anything about it on mobile.
Mini B, compatible with most aftermarket cables.
Paid as well.
Now to order switches/stabs...
Also paid. I think I'm going to wait and build mine with Halo switches. Hopefully they will release for individual sale soon.
No idea on switches yet, I have about 5 different unopened bags to pick from. Would like to try those Input Club Halo switches if they become available to order.
I think this will be my first 7U spacebar board. Not sure why, just want to try it.
Screw-in stabs if they fit (should probably have checked if they do beforehand)
Paid but still uncertain about the color :/
Paid but still uncertain about the color :/
Dude you can't go wrong with silver. Ever.
Paid but still uncertain about the color :/
Dude you can't go wrong with silver. Ever.
I know... but that cobalt/blue....
Paid invoice this evening and saving ~$10 USD by having visa convert the currency instead of paypal (no transaction fee on the credit card I used).
As for the debate on color: I chose black and really wish I had also gotten silver.
OP any chance that I can add another order this late xD
paid!
will probably use the 67g zealios + zeal stabs i have laying around and use gmk nautilus, hoping the grey bottom + blue top looks good :thumb:
12 unpaid still. You can sent a payment reminder through PayPal to those people. Will trigger a new email/ notification. Probably worthwhile.
Reminder to those that have not paid the invoice that I need to have the payment in by midnight Saturday BST, I don't know what time Paypal sets as the cutoff so I suggest paying as soon as possible.
Thanks
Reminder to those that have not paid the invoice that I need to have the payment in by midnight Saturday BST, I don't know what time Paypal sets as the cutoff so I suggest paying as soon as possible.
Thanks
Rozakiin - super excited for this board, it's end-game layout for me (will make me sell my CPSQ). Any chance there might be a slight possibility of maybe possibly having maybe some other anodize/color options? After seeing all those TGR 910s with that beautiful pink bottom case - I'm tempting to maybe do something a little less traditional for this board!
It seems two guys didn't get their invoices: Barcode and PeteToungue.
I have some screw in stabs around I'll test fitment out today, a plastic washer will be needed with some configurations to stop shorting.Did the screw in stabs fit well when you tested them? I'm starting to shop around for stabilizers and switches so I was curious about this as well.
I have some screw in stabs around I'll test fitment out today, a plastic washer will be needed with some configurations to stop shorting.Did the screw in stabs fit well when you tested them? I'm starting to shop around for stabilizers and switches so I was curious about this as well.
Thanks for the update. Is there any way we can help with the PayPal situation, as the money came from us?
Update regarding PayPal Funds:
As of 10am BST 11/07/17 The Funds in my account were put on hold until I submitted proof of delivery for each of the orders received. I called PayPal to explain the Group Buy situation and I now must wait 21days for the funds to be released. Your money is safe and I am currently looking into gathering personal funds to float so I can start the manufacture of the parts now rather than in 21days.
I am sorry for the potential delay in the group buy but there is nothing I can do to speed up the release of the funds.
Next update will be to say if I have been able to gather the float or not.
Rozakiin
Update regarding PayPal Funds:
As of 10am BST 11/07/17 The Funds in my account were put on hold until I submitted proof of delivery for each of the orders received. I called PayPal to explain the Group Buy situation and I now must wait 21days for the funds to be released. Your money is safe and I am currently looking into gathering personal funds to float so I can start the manufacture of the parts now rather than in 21days.
I am sorry for the potential delay in the group buy but there is nothing I can do to speed up the release of the funds.
Next update will be to say if I have been able to gather the float or not.
Rozakiin
Did you also call them before you started the GB or only after the funds were frozen?
It sucks, but you don't need to go out of your way by getting loans or anything to float the money - delays are pretty much expected anyway
Did you also call them before you started the GB or only after the funds were frozen?
I had contacted them weeks before the Group Buy to inform them but I got no useful response at the time.
Did you also call them before you started the GB or only after the funds were frozen?
I had contacted them weeks before the Group Buy to inform them but I got no useful response at the time.
That's sad. It seems to be the norm now that stuff on PayPal just gets frozen.
12/07/17 - PCBs and Plates have been ordered to help reduce the delay, once the PayPal funds are released the cases are expected to be delivered last week of August.
They should be understanding in these circumstances rather than hindering... maybe we should just use bitcoin next time /s
12/07/17 - PCBs and Plates have been ordered to help reduce the delay, once the PayPal funds are released the cases are expected to be delivered last week of August.
They should be understanding in these circumstances rather than hindering... maybe we should just use bitcoin next time /s
from what i understand about bitcoin it wouldn't be any more secure for the buyer than a normal bank wire transfer in which we probably could avoid the issues too.
also bitcoin would be a bit of a gamble and could cause issues with it dropping by 200$ or more for 1 bitcoin in just 1 day (if unlucky), which would result in not enough money for things to get produced.
it's certainly an option for bitcoin savvy folks but i wouldn't like using it as the only option personally.
maybe i'm wrong on that though.
I was being sarcastic really dude :) I think Paypal is great for this but perhaps they could have a GB notification system or similar.
That's my fault, my bad luck.
Canvas XDA -- delayed.
Planck Canvas XDA -- delayed
Planck kit -- delayed
DSA Lightcycle -- delayed by SP.
Tada68 from TaoBao -- 2nd month en route.
And I still don't know whats up with SP SA Strong Spirit and dev/tty.
14/07/17 - Cases have been ordered, please do not request refunds through PayPal now as this comes out of my money now, if you wish to sell your spot contact me through GeekHack PMs.
Thats amazing Roz - you were able to go ahead with the case order without too much delay! Thanks for all your hard work. Really excited for this one.
Thanks for the update! Shame you had to pool in your own money to get things going faster, though.
Hi rozakiin,
Can you tell me the size of UK78?
Hi rozakiin,
Can you tell me the size of UK78?
383mm x 118mm x 35mm at its largest including feet.
Sooo, what will be the better option with dark blue UK78: complicated white alps with DSA Lightcycle or Zealios 78 with GMK Lazer?
Will the PCB support the Panda/Outemu hot swap sockets?
Will the PCB support the Panda/Outemu hot swap sockets?
Will the PCB support the Panda/Outemu hot swap sockets?
Is there a difference in these hot swap sockets and the hotlites that can be purchased separately?
Edit seems that they work roughly the same but are smaller which could be advantageous based on what rozakiin said on modifier row.
I am leaning towards getting some and modding them with a tactile switch.
Will the PCB support the Panda/Outemu hot swap sockets?
Is there a difference in these hot swap sockets and the hotlites that can be purchased separately?
Edit seems that they work roughly the same but are smaller which could be advantageous based on what rozakiin said on modifier row.
I am leaning towards getting some and modding them with a tactile switch.
Yea, I’ll pick up some purple Outemu’s as testers for Clear stem swapped Panda’s. Don’t want to sink all the moola if they won’t work.
Thanks for posting the dimensions!
I'm doing an ALPS board and thus probably using Granite even though I don't love typing on DSA. (DSA + ALPS tactile > Cherry + MX tactile though.)
Wondering if that marble royal glam wrest in TKL size will look stupid being about 3cm too narrow. What do you guys think? White marble + silver "fjell" case + granite sounds nice. But half an inch on each side sounds pretty uggo =/
Will the PCB support the Panda/Outemu hot swap sockets?
Is there a difference in these hot swap sockets and the hotlites that can be purchased separately?
Edit seems that they work roughly the same but are smaller which could be advantageous based on what rozakiin said on modifier row.
I am leaning towards getting some and modding them with a tactile switch.
Yea, I’ll pick up some purple Outemu’s as testers for Clear stem swapped Panda’s. Don’t want to sink all the moola if they won’t work.
I read a bit more last night and they don't work like true hotlites in that other switch housing will not work with them. There were a few people on Reddit saying that panda housing zelio stems were amazing but panda housings aren't made for RGB 😥.
Are the purps made for RGB?
Thanks for posting the dimensions!
I'm doing an ALPS board and thus probably using Granite even though I don't love typing on DSA. (DSA + ALPS tactile > Cherry + MX tactile though.)
Wondering if that marble royal glam wrest in TKL size will look stupid being about 3cm too narrow. What do you guys think? White marble + silver "fjell" case + granite sounds nice. But half an inch on each side sounds pretty uggo =/
Thanks for posting the dimensions!
I'm doing an ALPS board and thus probably using Granite even though I don't love typing on DSA. (DSA + ALPS tactile > Cherry + MX tactile though.)
Wondering if that marble royal glam wrest in TKL size will look stupid being about 3cm too narrow. What do you guys think? White marble + silver "fjell" case + granite sounds nice. But half an inch on each side sounds pretty uggo =/
The besel is what would be not be covered by the rest, I don't think it would look too out of place.
That blue! Almost regretting getting the full base now haha
Also wishing I ordered an extra pcb and albs plate - I'm guessing you didn't order extras?
That blue! Almost regretting getting the full base now haha
Also wishing I ordered an extra pcb and albs plate - I'm guessing you didn't order extras?
Couple of extra pcbs and plates, they will be available at the same time as shipping.
blue PCB.. awesome. Blue case, blue caps (nautilus), blue pcb.. but not blue switches. Halos if I like them, otherwise 78g pandalios.
If rozakiin is okay with a transfer, I'm willing to let go of my order. Thanks.
Fjell Top Case
Colour:446C
Diffuser
SS MX Plate
Assembled PCB
Bumpons, screws, shipping of case
(more details to come if this is doable)
Are bumpons/screws something we had to ask for separately?
Thanks for the update. Will the colour change cause any delays?
Hi everyone,
I have just added UK78 support to the QMK Repo (https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/uk78)
If you need the Caps Lock LED to work on your UK78 then you will need to use this build as the online QMK tool http://kbfirmware.com/ configures the LED incorrectly otherwise here (https://github.com/Rozakiin/UK78) is the json for the online tool.
Hi everyone,
I have just added UK78 support to the QMK Repo (https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/uk78)
If you need the Caps Lock LED to work on your UK78 then you will need to use this build as the online QMK tool http://kbfirmware.com/ configures the LED incorrectly otherwise here (https://github.com/Rozakiin/UK78) is the json for the online tool.
Awesome! Is adding a baseline Winkeyless (7u spacebar and 1.5u mods) layout a big chore? I presume the uk78.h file needs another structure to create the proper matrix for the keybindings?
Hi everyone,
I have just added UK78 support to the QMK Repo (https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/uk78)
If you need the Caps Lock LED to work on your UK78 then you will need to use this build as the online QMK tool http://kbfirmware.com/ configures the LED incorrectly otherwise here (https://github.com/Rozakiin/UK78) is the json for the online tool.
Awesome! Is adding a baseline Winkeyless (7u spacebar and 1.5u mods) layout a big chore? I presume the uk78.h file needs another structure to create the proper matrix for the keybindings?
7u and 1.5u mods can be created from the file currently, the structure is made to have the max number of keys so all layouts can be made without editing the matrix.
Has anyone opted out/wished to sell their spot? I'd love to get in on this :O
I can’t quite tell, is there enough room between the PCB and the bottom for screw in stabs? I looks like it, but ya know... measure twice and all.I asked previously, either here or in the IC check thread. They will fit but yeah, you'll need some washers. I'll try find the ones I got on ebay
Edit: I’m guessing we’ll need to use washer or tape on the PCB for the screws as well.
I asked previously, either here or in the IC check thread. They will fit but yeah, you'll need some washers. I'll try find the ones I got on ebay
I asked previously, either here or in the IC check thread. They will fit but yeah, you'll need some washers. I'll try find the ones I got on ebay
I’ve got some Cherry ones, just wanted to triple check! Thanks for the heads up dude.
I can’t quite tell, is there enough room between the PCB and the bottom for screw in stabs? I looks like it, but ya know... measure twice and all.
Edit: I’m guessing we’ll need to use washer or tape on the PCB for the screws as well.
So just to make sure, if we paid for the kit on the PayPal invoice a few months ago, all we do now if pay shipping and put our username?Yep
How do we know, if we're among lucky 20?
I'm not sure how the website works...do I pay for the 0.01 pound shipping and when I put my name in it changes to the correct amount?
Also will you be releasing the plate files anytime soon?
I'm not sure that will work for Roz's plate given it has tabs that bolt to the case on the outer edges
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You casn generade CAD with excessive edge padding (like 10mm), then edit it in the CAD editor to fit the cuts in the case or just cut it as is and the use dremel or other tool to fit (I'd recommend editing in the CAD SW though)
Of course, getting files from Roz is the easiest way.
What was issue with the PCBs? I got in the list of the 1st 20 so it doesn't affect me, but I'm a curious George.
What was issue with the PCBs? I got in the list of the 1st 20 so it doesn't affect me, but I'm a curious George.
The RGB Leds were the ws2812 instead of the ws2812b components, they look very similar from a visual point so was not picked up during their visual QC I think.
Does it affect overall performance of the PCB? If the PCB is functional in all other ways, I'd get it without RGB nonetheless.
It affected the reset switch working correctly, plus it hasn't affected the shipping time as it has been sorted before the cases arrived.
So PCBs with error are unusable as PCBs, unfortunatelly. But at least it can be used as a material for backplate. Anyway, if you don't need them, I could use one or two for my projects. I understand that I ask for more than ordered, but it's totally up to you.
Just to show how does it look like when using other PCB as a plate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0tnkPBV.jpg)
All apart from 4 cases (visible blemishes so are being re-anodised) are on their way to me and are arriving 29th Sept.
All apart from 4 cases (visible blemishes so are being re-anodised) are on their way to me and are arriving 29th Sept.
Do you mean August? :D
so.. what are these UK78L and UK-XT??I'll speculate that the L is for lefthand numpad and the XT would be akin to 1800 style
so.. what are these UK78L and UK-XT??
Any update on the UK78 cases?so.. what are these UK78L and UK-XT??
Projects I have been working on, also I needed a product placeholder. :)
Any update on the UK78 cases?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
so.. what are these UK78L and UK-XT??I'll speculate that the L is for lefthand numpad and the XT would be akin to 1800 style
so.. what are these UK78L and UK-XT??I'll speculate that the L is for lefthand numpad and the XT would be akin to 1800 style
Very reasonable guesses
Does the blank PCB (extras) come with anything soldered? Controller maybe?
Would it be possible to get some pictures? Would love to see a close up of a fjell style case. Preferably in the dark blue :)
Looks epic Roz. Can't wait till Tuesday or Wednesday! Will there be tracking numbers available?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So, you were running GB with funds still held? No "my account was locked, I have to deal with it first"?
That's the example of dedication, thanks.
Hi everyone!
The first 22 orders were sent out today, paypal has your tracking numbers eta is 3-4days for outside of the UK. As for the rest of the orders there will be a delay as I need to program and test all of your pcbs, also I am moving into a new flat tomorrow which messes with the schedule slightly.
- Rozakiin
Such a fast and smooth GB! Awesome work Rozakiin!
I'm not even worried about not making the first shipping batch, since I will be waiting for keycaps and switches anyway... You are just too fast! :P
Hello everyone, sorry to announce but I made a mistake with the plates, the plate blocks the middle switch of a 3x 1u righthand modifiers layout as shown in this picture, I would be possible to cut that part out if needed but if is a deal breaker then please contact me so I can try and sort something out.You mean like this?
(Attachment Link)
Hello everyone, sorry to announce but I made a mistake with the plates, the plate blocks the middle switch of a 3x 1u righthand modifiers layout as shown in this picture, I would be possible to cut that part out if needed but if is a deal breaker then please contact me so I can try and sort something out.You mean like this?
(Attachment Link)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/mVswqQT.png)
Hello everyone, sorry to announce but I made a mistake with the plates, the plate blocks the middle switch of a 3x 1u righthand modifiers layout as shown in this picture, I would be possible to cut that part out if needed but if is a deal breaker then please contact me so I can try and sort something out.You mean like this?
(Attachment Link)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/mVswqQT.png)
Yeah the fn key there would be blocked.
Hello everyone, sorry to announce but I made a mistake with the plates, the plate blocks the middle switch of a 3x 1u righthand modifiers layout as shown in this picture, I would be possible to cut that part out if needed but if is a deal breaker then please contact me so I can try and sort something out.You mean like this?
(Attachment Link)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/mVswqQT.png)
Yeah the fn key there would be blocked.
I don't mind :) Hopefully most people were planning on 2 1.5u keys
Hello everyone, sorry to announce but I made a mistake with the plates, the plate blocks the middle switch of a 3x 1u righthand modifiers layout as shown in this picture, I would be possible to cut that part out if needed but if is a deal breaker then please contact me so I can try and sort something out.You mean like this?
(Attachment Link)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/mVswqQT.png)
Yeah the fn key there would be blocked.
I don't mind :) Hopefully most people were planning on 2 1.5u keys
Hey, If you are doing 2x 1.5 with the arrow cluster, you need to change the firmware to have the FN closest to the arrow cluster and alt gr next to the space bar, other wise it come up as alt and ctrl.
Built mine yesterday and its beautiful, Thank you again Roz for all your hard work
http://imgur.com/a/SGckw
Hello everyone, sorry to announce but I made a mistake with the plates, the plate blocks the middle switch of a 3x 1u righthand modifiers layout as shown in this picture, I would be possible to cut that part out if needed but if is a deal breaker then please contact me so I can try and sort something out.You mean like this?
(Attachment Link)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/mVswqQT.png)
Yeah the fn key there would be blocked.
I don't mind :) Hopefully most people were planning on 2 1.5u keys
Hey, If you are doing 2x 1.5 with the arrow cluster, you need to change the firmware to have the FN closest to the arrow cluster and alt gr next to the space bar, other wise it come up as alt and ctrl.
Built mine yesterday and its beautiful, Thank you again Roz for all your hard work
http://imgur.com/a/SGckw
This exact is listed among supported (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/##@_backcolor=%23ffffff&author=Rozakiin&plate:false&pcb:false%3B&@_x:17.25&c=%23759c7f%3B&=~%0A%23&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c%3B&=%0A%0A%0APrtSc%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ABKSP%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&c=%23cccccc%3B&=%0A%0A%0A%60%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0AESC&=!%0A1%0A%0AF1&=%22%0A2%0A%0AF2&=%C2%A3%0A3%0A%0AF3&=$%0A4%0A%0AF4&=%25%0A5%0A%0AF5&=%5E%0A6%0A%0AF6&=%2F&%0A7%0A%0AF7&=*%0A8%0A%0AF8&=(%0A9%0A%0AF9&=)%0A0%0A%0AF10&=%2F&ndash%2F%3B%0A-%0A%0AF11&=+%0A%2F=%0A%0AF12&_c=%23759c7f&w:2%3B&=%0A%0A%0APrtSc%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ABACKSPACE&_c=%23cccccc%3B&=%0A%0A%0ANumLk%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ADEL&=%2F%2F%0A%0A%0AScr%20Lk&=*%0A%0A%0APause&_t=%23000000%3B&=-%3B&@_x:4.25&a:7&w:1.5%3B&=TAB&_a:4%3B&=Q&=W&=E&=R&=T&=Y&=U&=I&=O&=P&=%7B%0A%5B&=%7D%0A%5D&_x:0.25&c=%23bad6c2&a:7&w:1.25&h:2&w2:1.5&h2:1&x2:-0.25%3B&=ENTER&_c=%23cccccc&t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4%3B&=7%0A%0A%0AHome&=8%0A%0A%0A%2F&uarr%2F%3B&=9%0A%0A%0APgUp&_c=%23d5db97&t=%23000000&a:7&h:2%3B&=+&_x:0.25%3B&=&_x:1.5&c=%23bad6c2&a:5&w:1.5%3B&=%7C%0A%5C%3B&@_c=%23cfabab&a:7&w:1.5&w2:1.75&l:true%3B&=Alps%20Caps%20Lock&_x:0.25&w:1.25&w2:1.75&l:true%3B&=CAPS%20LOCK&_x:1.25&w:1.75%3B&=CAPS%20LOCK&_c=%23cccccc&a:4%3B&=A&=S&=D&_n:true%3B&=F&=G&=H&_n:true%3B&=J&=K&=L&=%2F:%0A%2F%3B&=%2F@%0A%27&=~%0A%23&_x:1.25&t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c%3B&=4%0A%0A%0A%2F&larr%2F%3B&_t=%23000000%3B&=5&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c%3B&=6%0A%0A%0A%2F&rarr%2F%3B&_x:1.25&c=%23d5db97&t=%23000000&a:7%3B&=&_x:0.75&c=%23bad6c2&w:2.25%3B&=ENTER%3B&@_x:1.75&c=%23b8c4d6&w:2.25%3B&=SHIFT&_x:0.25&w:1.25%3B&=SHIFT&_a:4%3B&=%7C%0A%5C&_c=%23cccccc%3B&=Z&=X&=C&=V&=B&=N&=M&=%3C%0A,&=%3E%0A.&=%3F%0A%2F%2F&_c=%23d6c1db&t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&w:1.75%3B&=%0A%0A%0AMute%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ASHIFT&=%0A%0A%0AVolUp%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0AUP&_c=%23cccccc%3B&=1%0A%0A%0AEnd&=2%0A%0A%0A%2F&darr%2F%3B&=3%0A%0A%0APgDn&_c=%23d5db97&t=%23000000&a:7&h:2%3B&=ENTER&_x:0.25%3B&=&_x:0.25&c=%23d6c1db&w:2.75%3B&=SHIFT&_x:0.25%3B&=Fn&_w:1.75%3B&=SHIFT%3B&@_x:4.25&c=%23cccccc&w:1.5%3B&=CTRL&_w:1.5%3B&=ALT&_w:7%3B&=&_w:1.5%3B&=FN&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4&w:1.5%3B&=%0A%0A%0AAlt%20Gr%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ACTRL&_t=%23000000&a:7%3B&=LEFT&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4%3B&=%0A%0A%0AVolDown%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ADOWN&_c=%23af84bd&t=%23000000&a:7%3B&=RIGHT&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4%3B&=0%0A%0A%0AIns&_c=%23cccccc%3B&=%0A.%0A%0ADel&_x:1.25&c=%23d5db97&t=%23000000&a:7%3B&=%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&c=%23cccccc&w:1.25%3B&=CTRL&_w:1.25%3B&=WIN&_w:1.25%3B&=ALT&_w:6.25%3B&=&_w:1.25%3B&=FN&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4&w:1.25%3B&=%0A%0A%0AAlt%20Gr%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ACTRL&_t=%23000000&a:7&w:1.25%3B&=FN&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4&w:1.25%3B&=%0A%0A%0AAlt%20Gr%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ACTRL&_c=%23af84bd&w:2%3B&=0%0A%0A%0AIns%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&c=%23cccccc&t=%23000000&a:7&w:1.25%3B&=CTRL&_w:1.25%3B&=WIN&_w:1.25%3B&=ALT&_w:6.25%3B&=&=FN&=&=&=LEFT&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4%3B&=%0A%0A%0AVolDown%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ADOWN%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&t=%23000000&a:7&w:1.5%3B&=CTRL&=WIN&_w:1.5%3B&=ALT&_w:7%3B&=&_w:1.5%3B&=FN&=WIN&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4&w:1.5%3B&=%0A%0A%0AAlt%20Gr%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ACTRL%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&t=%23000000&a:7&w:1.5%3B&=CTRL&=WIN&_w:1.5%3B&=ALT&_w:6%3B&=) layouts:
This exact is listed among supported (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/##@_backcolor=%23ffffff&author=Rozakiin&plate:false&pcb:false%3B&@_x:17.25&c=%23759c7f%3B&=~%0A%23&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c%3B&=%0A%0A%0APrtSc%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ABKSP%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&c=%23cccccc%3B&=%0A%0A%0A%60%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0AESC&=!%0A1%0A%0AF1&=%22%0A2%0A%0AF2&=%C2%A3%0A3%0A%0AF3&=$%0A4%0A%0AF4&=%25%0A5%0A%0AF5&=%5E%0A6%0A%0AF6&=%2F&%0A7%0A%0AF7&=*%0A8%0A%0AF8&=(%0A9%0A%0AF9&=)%0A0%0A%0AF10&=%2F&ndash%2F%3B%0A-%0A%0AF11&=+%0A%2F=%0A%0AF12&_c=%23759c7f&w:2%3B&=%0A%0A%0APrtSc%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ABACKSPACE&_c=%23cccccc%3B&=%0A%0A%0ANumLk%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ADEL&=%2F%2F%0A%0A%0AScr%20Lk&=*%0A%0A%0APause&_t=%23000000%3B&=-%3B&@_x:4.25&a:7&w:1.5%3B&=TAB&_a:4%3B&=Q&=W&=E&=R&=T&=Y&=U&=I&=O&=P&=%7B%0A%5B&=%7D%0A%5D&_x:0.25&c=%23bad6c2&a:7&w:1.25&h:2&w2:1.5&h2:1&x2:-0.25%3B&=ENTER&_c=%23cccccc&t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4%3B&=7%0A%0A%0AHome&=8%0A%0A%0A%2F&uarr%2F%3B&=9%0A%0A%0APgUp&_c=%23d5db97&t=%23000000&a:7&h:2%3B&=+&_x:0.25%3B&=&_x:1.5&c=%23bad6c2&a:5&w:1.5%3B&=%7C%0A%5C%3B&@_c=%23cfabab&a:7&w:1.5&w2:1.75&l:true%3B&=Alps%20Caps%20Lock&_x:0.25&w:1.25&w2:1.75&l:true%3B&=CAPS%20LOCK&_x:1.25&w:1.75%3B&=CAPS%20LOCK&_c=%23cccccc&a:4%3B&=A&=S&=D&_n:true%3B&=F&=G&=H&_n:true%3B&=J&=K&=L&=%2F:%0A%2F%3B&=%2F@%0A%27&=~%0A%23&_x:1.25&t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c%3B&=4%0A%0A%0A%2F&larr%2F%3B&_t=%23000000%3B&=5&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c%3B&=6%0A%0A%0A%2F&rarr%2F%3B&_x:1.25&c=%23d5db97&t=%23000000&a:7%3B&=&_x:0.75&c=%23bad6c2&w:2.25%3B&=ENTER%3B&@_x:1.75&c=%23b8c4d6&w:2.25%3B&=SHIFT&_x:0.25&w:1.25%3B&=SHIFT&_a:4%3B&=%7C%0A%5C&_c=%23cccccc%3B&=Z&=X&=C&=V&=B&=N&=M&=%3C%0A,&=%3E%0A.&=%3F%0A%2F%2F&_c=%23d6c1db&t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&w:1.75%3B&=%0A%0A%0AMute%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ASHIFT&=%0A%0A%0AVolUp%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0AUP&_c=%23cccccc%3B&=1%0A%0A%0AEnd&=2%0A%0A%0A%2F&darr%2F%3B&=3%0A%0A%0APgDn&_c=%23d5db97&t=%23000000&a:7&h:2%3B&=ENTER&_x:0.25%3B&=&_x:0.25&c=%23d6c1db&w:2.75%3B&=SHIFT&_x:0.25%3B&=Fn&_w:1.75%3B&=SHIFT%3B&@_x:4.25&c=%23cccccc&w:1.5%3B&=CTRL&_w:1.5%3B&=ALT&_w:7%3B&=&_w:1.5%3B&=FN&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4&w:1.5%3B&=%0A%0A%0AAlt%20Gr%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ACTRL&_t=%23000000&a:7%3B&=LEFT&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4%3B&=%0A%0A%0AVolDown%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ADOWN&_c=%23af84bd&t=%23000000&a:7%3B&=RIGHT&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4%3B&=0%0A%0A%0AIns&_c=%23cccccc%3B&=%0A.%0A%0ADel&_x:1.25&c=%23d5db97&t=%23000000&a:7%3B&=%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&c=%23cccccc&w:1.25%3B&=CTRL&_w:1.25%3B&=WIN&_w:1.25%3B&=ALT&_w:6.25%3B&=&_w:1.25%3B&=FN&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4&w:1.25%3B&=%0A%0A%0AAlt%20Gr%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ACTRL&_t=%23000000&a:7&w:1.25%3B&=FN&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4&w:1.25%3B&=%0A%0A%0AAlt%20Gr%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ACTRL&_c=%23af84bd&w:2%3B&=0%0A%0A%0AIns%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&c=%23cccccc&t=%23000000&a:7&w:1.25%3B&=CTRL&_w:1.25%3B&=WIN&_w:1.25%3B&=ALT&_w:6.25%3B&=&=FN&=&=&=LEFT&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4%3B&=%0A%0A%0AVolDown%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ADOWN%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&t=%23000000&a:7&w:1.5%3B&=CTRL&=WIN&_w:1.5%3B&=ALT&_w:7%3B&=&_w:1.5%3B&=FN&=WIN&_t=%23000000%0A%0A%0A%230b7f1c&a:4&w:1.5%3B&=%0A%0A%0AAlt%20Gr%0A%0A%0A%0A%0A%0ACTRL%3B&@_y:0.25&x:4.25&t=%23000000&a:7&w:1.5%3B&=CTRL&=WIN&_w:1.5%3B&=ALT&_w:6%3B&=) layouts:
Yeah I was just wondering if the plate would be an issue, but it shouldn't be
I'm unfamiliar with this firmware editor, would it be possible to set 4,5,6,8 to an arrow cluser when numlock is off? Obviously 4,6,8 would be left, right, up but I'm wondering if I can easily have 5 as down with the numlock toggle
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/R0Gemb6.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UoJzDkv.jpg)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pvfQ7Hh.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/R4WoGoF.jpg)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xIWr47S.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/BXvFuRO.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/6rc96tA.jpg)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GIGByI5.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MHRKmjH.jpg)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/vUlJvWU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P54qlnl.jpg)
Well, I just collected it from the post office - not good news
Ouch these better be fully insured :0
Well, I just collected it from the post office - not good news
Seems a bit squished form the outside, not too bad looking... Unfortunately it's worse than it first appears :(QuoteShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/R0Gemb6.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UoJzDkv.jpg)
Some of the aluminium literally shaved off on these edges hereQuoteShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/pvfQ7Hh.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/R4WoGoF.jpg)
Everywhere a screw was during shipping has got a decent bit of damage to it, one corner now actually bulges out sideways (hard to pick that one up on camera)QuoteShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/xIWr47S.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/BXvFuRO.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/6rc96tA.jpg)
USB port is... destroyedQuoteShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/GIGByI5.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MHRKmjH.jpg)
This last one, I'm not sure if it's a bit of a design flaw or if it has literally been bent during shipping - but when the base sits in the top half, the sides are flush as they should be but it bows out towards the middle, so the whole thing rocks. I can squeeze it in to be flush as it should be, but without holes to screw through nothing keeps it together. Hard to get a picture of itQuoteShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/vUlJvWU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P54qlnl.jpg)
Who is the carrier for US bound packages? More than likely I won't be home when the package is delivered....
So, got my UK78 today (they actually tried to deliver it yesterday, but I was busy all day so I picked it up at the post office today). 3 day delivery to Sweden from the UK, not bad.
I just wanted to give a few comments, both about the board and the shipping ASAP so you can consider it before/during the shipping of the rest of the keyboard.
First of all, thanks for the fast GB. Can't wait to make this board as it will be my new main work board. My RS68 is awesome, but I do miss the numpad sometimes...
When it comes to packaging, the my package was quite flat, but as it had no surface damage there wasn't any real issue. But you may want to consider something to structurally enforce the packages for the rest of the shipments.
Concerning the keyboard, my PCB came with a badly aligned USB connector. It does seems like it's mostly cosmetic (the contact isn't loose or anything, and the LEDs all light up (red) when I plug it into the computer). I also tried to make sure that a cable will fit through the usb slot in the case, even with the misaligned connector, which seems to be the case. So this is mostly a heads up what to look at if/when inspecting the boards. (Not saying I wouldn't accept a replacement, just that I probably can live without one =P).Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UB8nS3h.jpg)
Secondly, some screws holding the plate into the case was loose when I unwrapped the case and everything. I found one screw, but another one is still missing (probably lying on the floor somewhere in my messy apartment...). There's no damage to the case from any loose object from what I can see, but the plate does have some scratches that could be from a screw (I don't care about the plate that much, so no worries there). If possible I would recommend you to either make sure that the screws are screwed in tight, or if you want to keep them loosly tightened because easy removal put a piece of tape over each one.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Tgr7Opb.jpg)
Personally I would also appreciate if you could at least tell me the size/dimensions of the plate screws, so I get get some new ones on ebay.
Once again, a really good GB. Just wanted to make you aware of my observations before you shipped out more cases.
On the topic of shipping, people in batch 2 don't have tracking numbers yet right? I can't seem to find one on my invoice nor additional emails.
No tracking yet, waiting for the additional packaging.
The only thing that disappoints me is that my board has two anodizing errors and a couple of small scratches on the full base.
The only thing that disappoints me is that my board has two anodizing errors and a couple of small scratches on the full base.
Anodizing hooks, necessary but poorly placed
Picked mine up from local "post office" today.
The packaging had taken a serious battering en route and the clerk actually noticed my face when I first saw the package. I was afraid that the whole board had gone to **** because the package looked like someone drove over it. I took a photo of the package at the post office under a security camera so there would be some proof as to when the package was damaged.
I came home and started unpacking warily (first photographing the package and all in case I needed to show proof of mishandling). To my relief the board, case, parts, everything was fine! No loose screws or any scratches. I was amazed how well the inner packaging held together while the cardboard box was almost broken apart.
There is the small bag with the rubber standoffs which contains a single screw and I noticed there was a empty screw hole for the plate inside the case. I presume the single screw is meant to be there?
I quickly tried the PCB and seemed to work fine, all switch holes registered something in a tester and the underlighting LEDs all showed bright red coloring. Someone had a bent USB socket but mine was in place just fine.
The gray coloring I chose is a bit lighter in person than I assumed, but looks great anyways. The brass plate is awesome and feels really sturdy.
All in all my UK78 is safely at home now. Many thanks Rozakiin, this was my first bigger investment into a custom keyboard and couldn't be happier how it went (apart from random package manhandling between UK and Finland). :)
I'll be posting pictures and more thoughts once I get it assembled and some caps arrive to show it off with.
Now to rummage through the cupboard and find my 67g Zealios...
Just wanted to confirm that the order excel sheet linked on page 1 wasn't updated with the shipping options. I purchased an extra steel plate during shipping and that isn't reflected so I just wanted to make sure I get it.
Can anyone that has received theirs comment on holtite compatibility?
Assembly went well, there were some hitches when flashing QMK onto the board but managed to get it working properly in the end. It seems when you use `make uk78-keymap` and `dfu-programmer` separately the PCB gets bugged and you need to replug it a few times for it to reappear in the OS. I used `make uk78-keymap-dfu` (a few times) and it worked fine then.
Now I've run into an issue regarding typing languages: when on US ANSI my RGui works as it should, but when I switch to ISO Nordic (fi_FI) RGui disappears. Not sure if this is an issue with my OS or my firmware, or whether this is an issue in how the PCB works. I made a question at AskUbuntu and an issue over at QMK in case anyone there has any pointers on fixing it:
- https://askubuntu.com/questions/956046/super-r-right-winkey-missing-on-some-typing-languages
- https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/issues/1716
I guess I could always reflash with RGui replaced with LGui but IIRC my other QMK boards have operated fine with the LGui+RGui setup before.
The board is awesome, now I'm waiting for new keycaps so I can restore Modern Beige on my old keyboard. :)
EDIT: Took a potato pic with the Modern Beige on it.Show Image(https://instagram.fqlf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/t51.2885-15/e35/21569344_688120618048859_1131612200461402112_n.jpg)
Just got my kit in the mail. I'm in the US, and was in the second round of shipping. Packaging held up well and there are no scratches, dings or dents to be found! Thanks for the smooth groupbuy Roz! Can't wait to build this bad boy!
Just got my kit in the mail. I'm in the US, and was in the second round of shipping. Packaging held up well and there are no scratches, dings or dents to be found! Thanks for the smooth groupbuy Roz! Can't wait to build this bad boy!
Just got mine, looks great! Is there a chance spare feet are available for purchase?
Damn, I was monitoring this thread to see if I could grab one of the extra kits, looks like I may have missed my chance? Was really hoping to get my hands on a Fjell-style case. I adore the 60%+numpad design. Keep up the great work Rozakiin, hopefully I can get my hands on one of your kits eventually!
...
Looks very classy!, is that monitor the Dell P2416D?
I think I may have found the issue with QMK too, I had bootmagic turned on by default which could have been causing an issue https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/70gzhh/help_gui_keys_in_qmk_no_longer_opening_windows/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/70gzhh/help_gui_keys_in_qmk_no_longer_opening_windows/).
Just submitting the change to QMK currently.
- Rozakiin
Damn, I was monitoring this thread to see if I could grab one of the extra kits, looks like I may have missed my chance? Was really hoping to get my hands on a Fjell-style case. I adore the 60%+numpad design. Keep up the great work Rozakiin, hopefully I can get my hands on one of your kits eventually!
Not too late! The extra is a Blue Fjell Style case with either Grey or Blue feet. I have had a number of people interested so It could be a bit of a scrum once It goes live!
- Rozakiin
My first keyboard from GB ;D
Thanks Roz for the fast GB!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/lPJmMR6.jpg)
Just got my board over the weekend also. The reinforced outer packaging held up well. The duct tape makes it that much better. :thumb:
rozakiin, I noticed there is a blue angled feet you're posting. Was I suppose to get the angled feet in blue color when I get the blue case? I have the silver color now.
Could you post the file for the Acrylic Diffuser so I can make another one if I needed to?
Thanks for a smooth and fast GB from you.
Just got my board over the weekend also. The reinforced outer packaging held up well. The duct tape makes it that much better. :thumb:
rozakiin, I noticed there is a blue angled feet you're posting. Was I suppose to get the angled feet in blue color when I get the blue case? I have the silver color now.
Could you post the file for the Acrylic Diffuser so I can make another one if I needed to?
Thanks for a smooth and fast GB from you.
Oh, thanks. I guess I missed that part after the GB. Bummer.
Not a deal breaker though. I'll just keep telling myself the contrast of the feet and the case is a unique feature of the UK78. :cool:
Feet were all manufactured in silver unless you specifically requested a different color. It wasn't immediately apparent that this was the case, but it was stated shortly after the GB ended and he said to PM him if you wanted to change it.
My first keyboard from GB ;D
Thanks Roz for the fast GB!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/lPJmMR6.jpg)
Will there be any extra's for sale?
Will there be any extra's for sale?
There is a single extra case which he keeps dangling in front of anyone who asks. I talked to him 1.5 months ago about purchasing the extra case, but unfortunately I don't think it's going to be a very straightforward process for any of us. He posted about it on mechmarket the other day, with no real intention to sell it, so that he can a better idea of how much people are willing to pay - a bit underhanded if you ask me, but hey, it is a very desired case... I'm just salty because no one will sell me one ;)
Will there be any extra's for sale?
There is a single extra case which he keeps dangling in front of anyone who asks. I talked to him 1.5 months ago about purchasing the extra case, but unfortunately I don't think it's going to be a very straightforward process for any of us. He posted about it on mechmarket the other day, with no real intention to sell it, so that he can a better idea of how much people are willing to pay - a bit underhanded if you ask me, but hey, it is a very desired case... I'm just salty because no one will sell me one ;)
... I did have the intention to trade if something interesting came up but nothing did. ...
So this is the first board I've bought that doesn't have a configurator for dummies. Can someone point me in the right direction on how to get started on programming the board.
I found the github page and the instructions on how to setup the build environment but I'm kind of lost after that. I'm sure someone has written a tutorial or similar that I can follow.
So this is the first board I've bought that doesn't have a configurator for dummies. Can someone point me in the right direction on how to get started on programming the board.
I found the github page and the instructions on how to setup the build environment but I'm kind of lost after that. I'm sure someone has written a tutorial or similar that I can follow.
I would greatly benefit from this as well. My only builds prior to this was a Rama m10-a and a NerD 60, so needless to say I haven't had to learn any programming up to this point. Any help is greatly appreciated :thumb:
So this is the first board I've bought that doesn't have a configurator for dummies. Can someone point me in the right direction on how to get started on programming the board.
I found the github page and the instructions on how to setup the build environment but I'm kind of lost after that. I'm sure someone has written a tutorial or similar that I can follow.
I would greatly benefit from this as well. My only builds prior to this was a Rama m10-a and a NerD 60, so needless to say I haven't had to learn any programming up to this point. Any help is greatly appreciated :thumb:
A proper "for dummies" tutorial for QMK would be a godsend. I can tell I'm going to be working on this for hours without one. If one doesn't pop up and I figure it out I'll write one up for you guys, but don't expect one from me any time soon.
UK78 QMK Flashing Guide - Windows 10
1. Get started by downloading the QMK firmware from github and extracting the archive to an easily accessible directory. To follow the guide completely in future steps extract and rename the folder to qmk_firmware and put in root of your C: drive, C:\qmk_firmware
https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/archive/master.zip (https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/archive/master.zip)
2. https://docs.qmk.fm/getting_started_build_tools.html (https://docs.qmk.fm/getting_started_build_tools.html) Follow the steps listed under Windows with msys2 to install the tools necessary to compile the firmware and create a .hex file. The correct terminal is "MSYS2 MingGW 64-bit" which I'll just refer to as msys2. One thing to note, once you have run "util/msys2_install.sh" pressing Enter at the package install prompts by default will install all the dependencies needed. If your terminal gets stuck trying to download a package from sourceforge and keeps trying like mine, hit Ctrl + C to stop the process and run "util/msys2_install.sh" again to continue.
3. Next we'll need to install DFU programmer to have Windows recognize the board in the bootloader state. Go here http://sourceforge.net/projects/dfu-programmer/files/dfu-programmer/0.7.0/ (http://sourceforge.net/projects/dfu-programmer/files/dfu-programmer/0.7.0/) and download the .zip and extract. Run the provided executable. Open Device Manager and with your board plugged in press and hold Fn + R for a few seconds and Device Manager should refresh and have an unrecognized device, I believe it'll pop up as AT90USB128. Rick click this device and select update driver, browse my computer for driver software, and then browse to the folder dfu-programmer-win-0.7.0\dfu-prog-usb-1.2.2 this is inside the zip you extracted in this step. Have include subfolders checked and hit Next. If all went well you'll see your device under the category libusb-win32 devices.
4. We're ready to compile the QMK firmware to create our default hex file, open msys2 and navigate to your qmk_firmware folder. Run "make uk78-default" which will create a hex file based on the keymap here C:\qmk_firmware\keyboards\uk78\keymaps\default I'll go over editing and flashing your own hex in a later step.
5. I know there are multiple tools out there to flash QMK, but the one I eventually got working was Atmel's FLIP http://www.atmel.com/tools/flip.aspx (http://www.atmel.com/tools/flip.aspx) Download and install the package, I needed the one with the JRE included.
6. https://thevankeyboards.com/pages/programming-guide (https://thevankeyboards.com/pages/programming-guide) Stage 2, Step 2 is where you can start for a visual guide of using FLIP to flash your keyboard. However instead of the atmega controller we'll select AT90USB1286. That's it, we're done!
Editing Keymaps
Make a copy of the keymap.c file found here C:\qmk_firmware\keyboards\uk78\keymaps\default and open it in your favorite text editor. Each layer is an array of QMK key codes, you can find out what they do here https://docs.qmk.fm/keycodes.html (https://docs.qmk.fm/keycodes.html) I've attached my own edited keymap, the general process is locate the desired key in the grid and replace the keycode with what you want on each layer. I've changed mine to have Numlock on the base layer and Delete on layer 1, caps lock is now also a layer modifier, and extra arrow keys on layer 1 Pok3r style to name a few. I've just started playing around with it and judging by the keycode docs there's a lot of cool possibilities.
Once you've got the desired keymap, create a new folder in uk78\keymaps and name it something unique. Back in msys2 run make uk78-"folder name" to generate a new hex file to flash.
That Guide for Windows is Money, mac is easier, but im not familiar with git hub... i understand how to get the keymap and edit but when i ran the make command i got: No rule to make target `uk78-default'. Stop.
a guide on QMK for mac would be great
Was there any talk about a round 2 at some point in the future?
Definitely an interesting perspective. I really value stuff like having the option to have a split backspace or split left shift.
I think layouts like these possibly offer even more flexibility/ergonomics in terms of split spacebar options as well.
That's just my opinion though.
MBP:qmk_firmware-master TheBestUkester$ sudo dfu-programmer AT90USB1286 erase
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x1DFFF... Not blank at 0x1.
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x1DFFF... Not blank at 0x1.
MBP:qmk_firmware-master TheBestUketser$ sudo dfu-programmer AT90USB1286 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x1DFFF... Not blank at 0x1.
UK78 QMK Flashing Guide - Windows 10
3. Next we'll need to install DFU programmer to have Windows recognize the board in the bootloader state. Go here http://sourceforge.net/projects/dfu-programmer/files/dfu-programmer/0.7.0/ (http://sourceforge.net/projects/dfu-programmer/files/dfu-programmer/0.7.0/) and download the .zip and extract. Run the provided executable. Open Device Manager and with your board plugged in press and hold Fn + R for a few seconds and Device Manager should refresh and have an unrecognized device, I believe it'll pop up as AT90USB128. Rick click this device and select update driver, browse my computer for driver software, and then browse to the folder dfu-programmer-win-0.7.0\dfu-prog-usb-1.2.2 this is inside the zip you extracted in this step. Have include subfolders checked and hit Next. If all went well you'll see your device under the category libusb-win32 devices.
getting an issue with DFU-Programmer on macOS.Code: [Select]MBP:qmk_firmware-master TheBestUkester$ sudo dfu-programmer AT90USB1286 erase
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x1DFFF... Not blank at 0x1.
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x1DFFF... Not blank at 0x1.
When I try to --force it:Code: [Select]MBP:qmk_firmware-master TheBestUketser$ sudo dfu-programmer AT90USB1286 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x1DFFF... Not blank at 0x1.
I tried using `dfu-programmer` directly as well on Ubuntu and it did not work for some reason. Using `sudo make uk78-<layout>-dfu` worked instead. `cd` to the `qmk_firmware` root directory and run it from there. Quickly replugging the board and pressing the reset button might help if the command says "no device found" or similar when running the command.
I tried using `dfu-programmer` directly as well on Ubuntu and it did not work for some reason. Using `sudo make uk78-<layout>-dfu` worked instead. `cd` to the `qmk_firmware` root directory and run it from there. Quickly replugging the board and pressing the reset button might help if the command says "no device found" or similar when running the command.
I've been able to flash the board, but it has a bunch of issues and ends up back in bootloader after entering the secondary layer. I am hoping/guessing it has something to do with this non-erasable memory thing. Every time I attempt to reflash it I get that error.
Alright so this is my first experience with this, so please bear with me. I made it past steps 1 and 2 with no problem, but I have a few (probably really stupid) questions about step 3.
I installed DFU programmer and attempted to run the .exe file, but all that happens is a quick flash of a window opening before immediately closing again. Here are my questions:
- Is DFU programmer meant to be saved in a specific location? I currently just have it saved in a folder labeled DFU in my C: drive
- The window that launches when running dfu-programmer.exe is meant to stay open, correct? What is causing it to crash upon launching?
- With my layout (1.25u, 1.25u, 1.25u, space, 1.5u, 1.5u) and the defualt keymap I do not have access to FN / Mo(1), just ALT and CTRL. How would I go about refreshing Device Manager with my UK78 in this situation? (sorry, it's been a long week and my stupidity is showing)
Thanks for the help!
Was there any talk about a round 2 at some point in the future?
If I do a R2 I would prefer to change the cases design slightly, offering only one option to make it easier on my part while decreasing the cost for the buyers.
Was there any talk about a round 2 at some point in the future?
If I do a R2 I would prefer to change the cases design slightly, offering only one option to make it easier on my part while decreasing the cost for the buyers.
Interesting, do you know what design you would go with? Which design was more popular for R1?
Awesome, thanks for the info. I think I already know the answer to this but is there any chance of a left numpad version? I'd probably need to pick up a second one if so... :)Was there any talk about a round 2 at some point in the future?
If I do a R2 I would prefer to change the cases design slightly, offering only one option to make it easier on my part while decreasing the cost for the buyers.
Interesting, do you know what design you would go with? Which design was more popular for R1?
Fjell Style was by far more popular, still working on the new design so nothing concrete on that.
Awesome, thanks for the info. I think I already know the answer to this but is there any chance of a left numpad version? I'd probably need to pick up a second one if so... :)Was there any talk about a round 2 at some point in the future?
If I do a R2 I would prefer to change the cases design slightly, offering only one option to make it easier on my part while decreasing the cost for the buyers.
Interesting, do you know what design you would go with? Which design was more popular for R1?
Fjell Style was by far more popular, still working on the new design so nothing concrete on that.
Also, if anyone sees this an has a full aluminum base for the UK78, I'd love to buy one...
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Awesome, thanks for the info. I think I already know the answer to this but is there any chance of a left numpad version? I'd probably need to pick up a second one if so... :)Was there any talk about a round 2 at some point in the future?
If I do a R2 I would prefer to change the cases design slightly, offering only one option to make it easier on my part while decreasing the cost for the buyers.
Interesting, do you know what design you would go with? Which design was more popular for R1?
Fjell Style was by far more popular, still working on the new design so nothing concrete on that.
Also, if anyone sees this an has a full aluminum base for the UK78, I'd love to buy one...
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Lets just say that it is in the pipeline. ;)
It seems like maybe the stab wires are scraping against the plate, and the stabs can't fully rise?
It seems like maybe the stab wires are scraping against the plate, and the stabs can't fully rise?
Looks like that's whats happening. Strange to only be discovered now considering a lot of people use ISO for this board.
Is the stab wire fully in? I'm not too sure what else it could be.
I had some similar issues with Zeal stabs, now only using GMK screw-ins
Ok. it looks like for some reason I've lost RGB at all.
It worked initially prior soldering, but after I've soldered in-switch leds (which are VERY dim after installation, although they are actually very bright when connected to USB directly) the RGB is just gone.
There're some other strange things like backlight level almost not working on that LED or toggle LED working when they're set to minimum level.
Of course I've tried to flash default FW with no luck.
I've used this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-3mm-Pink-Flat-Top-Led-Wide-Angle-Water-Clear-Light-Bright-Leds-Lamp-New/221496358680?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) leds.
So, did I burn something, or that's software issue? Can I troubeshoot that someway?
Sorry, not directly. Plugged into breadboard powered up with adapter from USB. Anyway, voltage was set to 3.3 volts and LED was that bright:Show Image(https://imgur.com/WslRNG9)
And installed to PCB it was that dim:Show Image(https://imgur.com/wYXSi9x)
Moreover, with RGB activated, in-switch LEDs just turn off.Show Image(https://imgur.com/xYXYNNQ)
Now a bit about RGB. I've turned it off accidentally (set brightness to minimum level) cause actual keymap binding and that shown in keymap.c as an illustration differs. Whatever, I've identified the keys to tune RGB and set it on. But again, for some reason, it took quite some time for keyboard to initialize (3-4 seconds) and it hanged after playing with RGB settings after some time. The only solution was to unplug it and plug back again.
After another unplug the PCB seems dead: Flip doesn't recognize chip, no new devices in device manager after KB is plugged in, no initial flash of all LEDs after KB is plugged in. I can only guess that I've burned the chip with that LEDs. Well, now I've got an expensive brick.
I can give a reason for the LEDs appearing to turn off with the RGB, this is due to the amount of current supplied by the USB, there isn't enough current to drive the LEDs and RGB at once so the LEDs get very dim. Could also be the reason why the LEDs were brighter when attached to an adaptor.
Yeah, my thoughts exactly.
And most likely the reason for PCB becoming brick is the same: simultaneous RGB and in switch LEDs ultimately killing something with overcurrent.
Now upon plugging it some random RGB led just flashes briefly and that's it.
Any way to fix it, or I can just trash entire thing?
Nope, nothing is detected at all. Tried several times, holding reset as well -- no new devices.
Woooo good job that is really fresh. Wow. Mixture of alps, abs plate... and then that modern case are just “ooof”. I’ve never seen an abs plate before how is it compared to acrylic?
Finally built mine.
- SKCM Browns (thanks to E3E for the hookup)
- ABS plate
- Taihao Arabic capsShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/91tFIkn.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/SWV3lRm.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/8Vchx4m.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/NvZV6ln.jpg)
Woooo good job that is really fresh. Wow. Mixture of alps, abs plate... and then that modern case are just “ooof”. I’ve never seen an abs plate before how is it compared to acrylic?
ABS plate is much softer and flexy than acrylic. ABS is also much more durable than acrylic, you have to really want to damage ABS plate before you see any crack; on the other hands acrylic cracks easily even when you just tighten the screws. Comparing between acrylic, abs, and polycarb; I would rate them:
Hardness:
10 - Acrylic
3 - ABS
1 - Polycarb
Durability/Brittleness:
10 - Polycarb
7- ABS
2 - Acrylic
I highly recommend abs plate over acrylic and polycarb. Acrylic plate is crackable easily while polycarb is difficult to machine. Here're the flex comparisons between polycarb(white) vs abs(black)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0wkYp1u.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wEIZqZP.jpg)
Woooo good job that is really fresh. Wow. Mixture of alps, abs plate... and then that modern case are just “ooof”. I’ve never seen an abs plate before how is it compared to acrylic?
ABS plate is much softer and flexy than acrylic. ABS is also much more durable than acrylic, you have to really want to damage ABS plate before you see any crack; on the other hands acrylic cracks easily even when you just tighten the screws. Comparing between acrylic, abs, and polycarb; I would rate them:
Hardness:
10 - Acrylic
3 - ABS
1 - Polycarb
Durability/Brittleness:
10 - Polycarb
7- ABS
2 - Acrylic
I highly recommend abs plate over acrylic and polycarb. Acrylic plate is crackable easily while polycarb is difficult to machine. Here're the flex comparisons between polycarb(white) vs abs(black)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0wkYp1u.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wEIZqZP.jpg)
Alright, so I have what is likely a dumb question. I'm just now getting around to putting my board together, and I noticed on the PCB that the backslash/pipe key for ANSI layout has a stabilizer cutout right where a pin of my switch would go. I did some crude circling on a photo below; red is the spot in question and green is a "normal" set of pin holes.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Tw3Dxasr.jpg)
So how do I solder this? Just use more solder than a normal pin?
MoreWoooo good job that is really fresh. Wow. Mixture of alps, abs plate... and then that modern case are just “ooof”. I’ve never seen an abs plate before how is it compared to acrylic?
ABS plate is much softer and flexy than acrylic. ABS is also much more durable than acrylic, you have to really want to damage ABS plate before you see any crack; on the other hands acrylic cracks easily even when you just tighten the screws. Comparing between acrylic, abs, and polycarb; I would rate them:
Hardness:
10 - Acrylic
3 - ABS
1 - Polycarb
Durability/Brittleness:
10 - Polycarb
7- ABS
2 - Acrylic
I highly recommend abs plate over acrylic and polycarb. Acrylic plate is crackable easily while polycarb is difficult to machine. Here're the flex comparisons between polycarb(white) vs abs(black)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0wkYp1u.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wEIZqZP.jpg)
that looks fantastic! do you have any more abs plates? thanks for sharing the build
I'm a little late to the party but I finally built thanks again Roz!
https://imgur.com/a/OOBk7
I'm a little late to the party but I finally built thanks again Roz!
https://imgur.com/a/OOBk7
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
What happened to yours?
I've got mine bricked as well, I assume by using both underglow and in-switch LEDs.
My UK78 has become my favorite board so far. Maybe R2 at some point so I can get a black one for work? ;)In for round 2!
My UK78 has become my favorite board so far. Maybe R2 at some point so I can get a black one for work? ;)In for round 2!
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Any interest in a 5mm frosted diffuser/base?
I would rather have it done professionally and that means it would have to be laser cut due to CNCs cutting tolerance of 1mm.Any interest in a 5mm frosted diffuser/base?
I know I'd be interested in a diffused bottom piece. I've thought about picking some acrylic up and sanding it myself, but I've never done anything with acrylic so idk how it will turn out.
I would rather have it done professionally and that means it would have to be laser cut due to CNCs cutting tolerance of 1mm.
I want one so if I can get a few people to do it with me the price will go down.
Also it being 5mm it is thicker that the 3mm it came with so would also need some extra screws I could provide.
I actually got 6 panels delivered today, they are cut perfectly. Unfortunately they are gloss white and I asked for frost white so these are no good, I have asked for them to be replaced.
I ordered 3 full base pieces, with 4 screw holes and 3 small feet pieces with 8 screw holes.
If there is no problem with the replacement they should be 4GBP + Postage.
5mm gloss white image below.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180316/1e4888fbcfdf483e16eeb2915ddb46d2.jpg)
Plates arrived! 3 reserved, 2 left.
I wasn't in for the GB, i can't get any leftover i guess?
I wasn't in for the GB, i can't get any leftover i guess?
UK78's? You would have to check r/mm.
Plates arrived! 3 reserved, 2 left.
I had to go with a frosted white, frosted clear has completely clear edges. Also compared to the original gloss white I got below.Plates arrived! 3 reserved, 2 left.
Mind sharing one last pic of the bottom/flat side of the plate itself? Curious as to how much it's actually frosted. These look great though; definitely interested in fulfilling my reservation.
I had to go with a frosted white, frosted clear has completely clear edges. Also compared to the original gloss white I got below.
I think I may have found the issue with QMK too, I had bootmagic turned on by default which could have been causing an issue https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/70gzhh/help_gui_keys_in_qmk_no_longer_opening_windows/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/70gzhh/help_gui_keys_in_qmk_no_longer_opening_windows/).I recently flashed a customized layout and without the bootmagic, it seems the board stays in DFU mode when plugged in. sending a 'reset' thru dfu-programmer or FLIP seems to be enough to get it working but its not something i would want to do every time i replug the board
Just submitting the change to QMK currently.
- Rozakiin
Anyone have an extra PCB for sale? I recently built my UK78 and the “I” switch does not work. Replaced the switch and it still doesn’t work. Checked my soldering and it all looks in order. Anything else I should try? I do have a volt meter maybe I could check it someway if it really is the PCB.
Thanks
Any thoughts on running this GB again? I'd be interested in picking up a second one for work and I'm sure that there are people who missed out ~2 years ago that might want one too.
But a 96 key board is very different than a 60% + numpad, no?
Any thoughts on running this GB again? I'd be interested in picking up a second one for work and I'm sure that there are people who missed out ~2 years ago that might want one too.
Any thoughts on running this GB again? I'd be interested in picking up a second one for work and I'm sure that there are people who missed out ~2 years ago that might want one too.
You just missed the NYM96 Barebones on massdrop. I'm sure that drop will be back in a few months time, seen it a few times. It was $99+ shipping. I think it will still be cheaper than a UK78 with import VAT considered. But I can't speak for the quality comparison, but the reviews seem very promising.
Hi everyone!
It has been a while, I have had alot of projects that have taken up my time to dedicate to another GB, but they are finally nearing their completion.
I know there will be many of you that missed out on the first run or just want more keyboards!
Here is a really short informal form to give me a quick idea if it is going to be possible to run this again, all the components of the kit would be changed from R1 since so much has moved on in design in the last few years but it will still retain the same design ideals of the original.
For those of you asking about more PCBs this form is also for you, to see if I am able to do a proper assembled pcb run of spares/replacements.
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfNNfnILiDaGPWfLIMs4BQeRUeN2t1kcrK0SmWwGnsep-T_hg/viewform?usp=sf_link
Kind Regards,
Rozakiin
Hi everyone!
It has been a while, I have had alot of projects that have taken up my time to dedicate to another GB, but they are finally nearing their completion.
I know there will be many of you that missed out on the first run or just want more keyboards!
Here is a really short informal form to give me a quick idea if it is going to be possible to run this again, all the components of the kit would be changed from R1 since so much has moved on in design in the last few years but it will still retain the same design ideals of the original.
For those of you asking about more PCBs this form is also for you, to see if I am able to do a proper assembled pcb run of spares/replacements.
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfNNfnILiDaGPWfLIMs4BQeRUeN2t1kcrK0SmWwGnsep-T_hg/viewform?usp=sf_link
Kind Regards,
Rozakiin
Where is the R2 IC? ;D
If there is a Round 2, it might be a good idea to revise the PCB quite a bit. Maybe mine was just a dud, but I had several issues with power delivery when using in-switch LEDs. I soft-bricked my board a few times and had to reprogram it with an Arduino.
What made things significantly harder though is that the microcontroller pinouts are directly underneath the switch plate, so you either have to carefully cut through the plate or desolder the entire board. I guess carefully sliding wires between the plate and the PCB might work too, but I imagine getting a good connection would be very difficult.
Where is the R2 IC? ;D
Same form for both, just chose no for the pcb question.
Where is the R2 IC? ;D
Same form for both, just chose no for the pcb question.
which is the form? I just see a spreadsheet.
To be clear, i wasn't in for R1, i just want to partecipate in R2.
Where is the R2 IC? ;D
Same form for both, just chose no for the pcb question.
which is the form? I just see a spreadsheet.
To be clear, i wasn't in for R1, i just want to partecipate in R2.
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfNNfnILiDaGPWfLIMs4BQeRUeN2t1kcrK0SmWwGnsep-T_hg/viewform?usp=sf_link
Just seeing this -- I've been wanting a new PCB for my board for a while now. Mine was bricked in the middle of use from static! I've been wondering what I can do about it since it's one of my favorite boards, especially build all nicely with alps orange.
Any updates rozaa?
I wanna use this thing again!
Just seeing this -- I've been wanting a new PCB for my board for a while now. Mine was bricked in the middle of use from static! I've been wondering what I can do about it since it's one of my favorite boards, especially build all nicely with alps orange.I had a similar situation, a bit of static shock to the case and the board was no longer responsive. I was able to re-program it with QMK but some of the underglow rgb LEDs no longer work. I tried replacing the first failing one in the chain but it didnt seem to help. At any rate, its worrying enough that i've decided not to use it as my daily driver, which is unfortunate.
Any updates rozaa?
I wanna use this thing again!
After searching for months, I've finally found my dream layout - and it's the UK78! Absolutely 100% in for a round 2.