Here are a couple images of the PCB's. I just ordered a batch of 9 for a total of 3.75 with free shipping.
(Attachment Link)
After I receive these I will build them up into a small matrix for testing and depending on what happens I will probably open up a group buy.
If we can hit 600 units the price drops from $5 per square inch to $1 per square inch. At the reduced price it would only cost $26 to do a full 104 key layout. Other goodies are possibly in the future as well.
Are we going for something like this?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41004.0
(Attachment Link)
oh... uhh, I a few of these that I received a couple of weeks ago, but I haven't gotten the chance to play with it yet...
(Attachment Link)
But of course, this is a completely different thing... I just like that everyone is independently coming up with crazy stuff :D
Why do I get the feeling that this thread is about to get hijacked? I don't mind though given the direction it is going.
(Attachment Link)
Oh, wow, those look great! What is the dimension on those?
I think we can use this opportunity to expand the MegaTroller. What do you say?
How about including a version that includes 2 AS1115 for LED control.
What happened with Rev1?
oh... uhh, I a few of these that I received a couple of weeks ago, but I haven't gotten the chance to play with it yet...love the silkscreening. hah!
(Attachment Link)
But of course, this is a completely different thing... I just like that everyone is independently coming up with crazy stuff :D
Just arrived today. I still need to get them broke apart and cleaned up and soldered to some switches, and check if the PCB fits through cherry and alps holes. I am planning on making a 3x3 matrix with them and a firmware made up.
(Attachment Link)
Are you using a Teensy?
Why not use TMK then?
Why not use TMK then?
That is what I am using but this is my first custom firmware and first attempt at programming anything more than a Ti-82 to puke out answers for physics problems. And that was 15 years ago.
Why not use TMK then?
That is what I am using but this is my first custom firmware and first attempt at programming anything more than a Ti-82 to puke out answers for physics problems. And that was 15 years ago.
I recommend soarer's firmware. I was able to figure it out no problems for my LH ergodox project.
I also recommend using an LED or in switch diode to anchor the PCB well, though it doesn't matter so much if you're plate mounting and because the PCB mass is so small WRT the switch. Still, I consider it "best practice" unless you are working with a plate.
Crap...did I miss out on this?
v2: Now support upto 19ga wire, better identification of LED cathode, diode cathodeShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ODuspcf.png)
Out of curiosity, how are these expected to be mounted to anything? Quarter round cut outs on the corners maybe?
Quarter round cut outs on the corners maybe?
Out of curiosity, how are these expected to be mounted to anything? Quarter round cut outs on the corners maybe?
The pcb mounts to the switch only. The switch will have to be plate mounted.
Quarter round cut outs on the corners maybe?
You scared of sharp edges?
Do the switches still need a plate to be mounted, don't they? If I understood well the main idea is just to simplify the creation of the matrix for a board design. Am I right?
I don't understand what these are for...
I don't understand what these are for...
Make the actual assembly process for custom layouts easier without having to spend the money for a one off PCB. If we can get a group buy up to 600 units the price per unit here will be about $0.25.
Depending on final pricing this may be an alternative way to create prototypes. I suggest to create also a similar small PCB to install a teensy, with pins to connect the matrix with the tensy. This PCB will allow to have a full prototyping solution.
Depending on final pricing this may be an alternative way to create prototypes. I suggest to create also a similar small PCB to install a teensy, with pins to connect the matrix with the tensy. This PCB will allow to have a full prototyping solution.
Check this thread.
There are 2 versions in the thread one with mount holes on the ends and one on the sides. The mount holes are large enough for 6-32 screws which is standard screw for motherboard standoffs.
Now I checked that. Any chance to get these PCBs, the GH one, and the teensy in sets?
Now I checked that. Any chance to get these PCBs, the GH one, and the teensy in sets?
I don't want to release to much info from stuff that is in the pipe line but keep watching. What I am referring to is not comming from me, hence the non disclosure statement. But these will be made and the Teensy breakout boards are open source. Feel free to have them made to your hearts content.
You used the TMK firmware?
Do I need to invert the diode silkscreen?
V1.0 working.
(Attachment Link)
And yes the case is a cardboard box. It used to house a 280 GTX.
(Attachment Link)
Just a quick and dirty solder job but this was a proof of concept and/or test bed or future versions of PCBs and firmware.
V1.0 working.
(Attachment Link)
And yes the case is a cardboard box. It used to house a 280 GTX.
(Attachment Link)
Just a quick and dirty solder job but this was a proof of concept and/or test bed or future versions of PCBs and firmware.
What is the next step Mel?
V1.0 working.
(Attachment Link)
And yes the case is a cardboard box. It used to house a 280 GTX.
(Attachment Link)
Just a quick and dirty solder job but this was a proof of concept and/or test bed or future versions of PCBs and firmware.
What is the next step Mel?
I have a set of v2.0 ordered to test that design (soldering wires to that small of a pad was a pain) and from there I will be setting up the GB.
Take it easy my friend, I was just curious about it, because this will be the way to go to implement my own keyboard lay out. :thumb:
Take it easy my friend, I was just curious about it, because this will be the way to go to implement my own keyboard lay out. :thumb:
All good. I just want things to be right before I subject others to the methods behind my madness I call a hobby.
Take it easy my friend, I was just curious about it, because this will be the way to go to implement my own keyboard lay out. :thumb:
All good. I just want things to be right before I subject others to the methods behind my madness I call a hobby.
I have seen you involved in software for firmware, as well, I hope you can put a nice kit to build different layouts, with controller, software for programming, and individual pcbs, it would be awesome.
Take it easy my friend, I was just curious about it, because this will be the way to go to implement my own keyboard lay out. :thumb:
All good. I just want things to be right before I subject others to the methods behind my madness I call a hobby.
I have seen you involved in software for firmware, as well, I hope you can put a nice kit to build different layouts, with controller, software for programming, and individual pcbs, it would be awesome.
I wish I could but at this point I just don't have the requisite skills with coding to offer that sort of thing. There are plenty of options available. The biggest thing I would like to see would be a firmware generator for hand wire matrix setups. Essentially input which keys are in which rows and columns, designate pins on the controller to each row and column, wire up, flash firmware, and rock that new board. But I don't have those skills.
18, 20, 22, 24, 26 are the common hookup wire gauges. hookup wire is almost exclusively stranded core. you use solid core for jumpers, very high power but space constrained applications, stuff like that.
i would say that as long as 22ga stranded fits these holes, they're in good shape. 20 would be nice, but 18 is just going to be clumsy and overkill.
Correction. Version 2.0 showed up today.
(Attachment Link)
not having hookup wire around sucks. it's cheap, and easy to forget to stock, but when you need to make that one connection.. rararargghgahrghag
http://www.parts-express.com/cat/hook-up-wire/1614
i especially hate not having the right color around. "ok, i have to remember that red means earth ground on this assembly"
30 minutes later
"****"
not having hookup wire around sucks. it's cheap, and easy to forget to stock, but when you need to make that one connection.. rararargghgahrghag
http://www.parts-express.com/cat/hook-up-wire/1614
i especially hate not having the right color around. "ok, i have to remember that red means earth ground on this assembly"
30 minutes later
"****"
****.yes.
I know I am late to this parade, but it is very interesting. Great work!
I have a contribution/suggestion for a v.3 or simply another way to order the v.2 micro-PCBs:
Make them in 15-switch break-apart rows on 0.75" centers. Include traces for the row connections along with the existing pads.
That way the long runs of switches can be connected with a single PCB, and mods and shorter runs can be made by snipping the 15-switch rows. And for people who want them to be completely separate micro-PCBs, just cut them all apart. To make a square matrix, simply cut the row traces in the middle of a row.
Having made a few hard-wired keyboards, I think such a creature would make most designs very, very simple to build.
Is this interesting to anyone else? If so I can do a mock-up image.
- Ron | samwisekoi
While I like this idea it would make them more expensive as the customer will end up paying for the space between switches. At least if OshPark is the producer, since they charge based on area.
Plus part of my goal with this design was to be able to solder the switch to the PCB and at least one end of the jumpers before installing into the plate.
The advantage with this is you can change stems and springs without having to desolder anything when using a stock plate. Also, the cad work for square holes is quicker, easier, and cheaper to produce (less machine time).
Also this size is actually required for my build as my plate extends past the bottom of the switches.
they have pcb mount holes don't they? if you have to plate mount them, it kind of defeats the purpose. there are very few people building 1/4" stainless steel plated keyboards.
Depending on final price, I'd either want a handful or a few crates ;)
For my version it look like the price is going to be the following.
3-600 units $1.25 each
600-4000 units $0.25 each
4000+ ?
OK, I knocked this out using Pad2Pad. It is a run of 16 MX switches with all holes, a row trace, SMD diode pads and row and column pads. It is 11.75" x 0.50".my thought is to take it to pcbwing for a significantly larger order once the design is polished; in particular, i think it needs PCB mount holes, even if some smt pads have to be sacrificed for it.
(Attachment Link)
MX Keyswitch PCB strip mockup by samwisekoi.
Estimated job cost for 25 strips is $204.39, $8.18 per strip, or $0.51 (51 cents) per switch.
Estimated job cost for 100 strips is $268.98, $2.69 per strip, or $0.17 (17 cents) per switch.
I chose 16-position strips so it was divisible by four, making things like 10-key pads simpler. At 100 strips per job, a 5-row, 60% keyboard would cost $13.45. A full 104-key keyboard would need 10 (+/-), for a total cost of $26.90 in PCB strips alone.
And as someone who has made a few hard-wired keyboards by hand, this would have been a god-send.
Thoughts?
- Ron | samwisekoi
p.s. I mocked-up a 60% keyboard. The green lines are the column wires and a few row extensions for the mods. It turned out to only need four of the strips if I used the cut-offs from the other rows.
(Attachment Link)
MX Keyswitch PCB strip 60% mockup by samwisekoi.
1. Pardon me if I don't understand anything, but it looks as though you guys are just using the PCB to solder the switch, and then planning on hand wiring everything right?
2. Then what's the difference between getting any old PCB, and sawing it up into little squares, and hand wiring these?
I hate to throw away old stuff. (Environmental concerns). Not to mention, I have a few G80 PCBs now. Happy to give away for the cost of shipping.
Pardon me if I don't understand anything, but it looks as though you guys are just using the PCB to solder the switch, and then planning on hand wiring everything right?
Then what's the difference between getting any old PCB, and sawing it up into little squares, and hand wiring these?
I hate to throw away old stuff. (Environmental concerns). Not to mention, I have a few G80 PCBs now. Happy to give away for the cost of shipping.