Do you have pictures of all the plate colors?
Digging through the pictures on the site I found, Orange, Purple, Black & Grey. I could not find Green, Cyan, or Red. Can you post some pictures here or on the site of them?
Do you have pictures of all the plate colors?
Digging through the pictures on the site I found, Orange, Purple, Black & Grey. I could not find Green, Cyan, or Red. Can you post some pictures here or on the site of them?
Cyan will be close match to the Dolch PAC logo
Is the upcoming color Honda Sonic blue pearl or Sonic gray pearl? There is a difference. The blue is an intense ultramarine blue and the gray is, well, gray.
Do you have a colour sample of the Commando Green? (Did attempt to google and find it.. no success.) As you're aware, I'm waiting to order some parts too, just wanted to check the colour is what I was hoping :D
What are those "minor imperfections" on a Matte Blue? Is it possible to order RGB LEDs or which ones should we source in case it's not?
Have you tested both underglow and in-switch LEDs together, is USB power enough? I'm asking this cause I've most likely burned UK78 using both in-switch and RGB leds and power consumption of 1800 should be more than UK78 one. I'm considering getting matte blue or Tanzanite blue for Laser.
What about color samples for plates?
The i2c option could be pretty sweet. I am thinking of adding an accelerometer and being able to move the mouse by lifting and tilting the keyboard. Because I can.
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
since they're both 1800 clones i don't see why not
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
It should fit perfectly. TerryMathews is getting his this week and will confirm for us all.
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
It should fit perfectly. TerryMathews is getting his this week and will confirm for us all.
Great news! Will order once it is determined.
The wait list is no longer available. I was going to pull the trigger for blue one, but can't do it now(
Hello, I'm a Swedish guy new to this hobby and this forum. I need a nudge in the right direction, me and a friend of mine plans on putting tohether our first custom kits together and I want my kit to have this 1800-layout so I'd like to order this kit. But I'm uncertain how to get my hands on a PCB that works for the nordic layout. Is that something I can order here or how does that work?
Thanks in advance!
Is it still possible to place an order to get my hands on one of these beauties?I believe TKC is taking pre-order since the initial color cases are sold out.
Is it still possible to place an order to get my hands on one of these beauties?
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/87ljks/ic_tkc1800_oled_screen_kit
Do you provide soldering services? Can I buy a fully built keeb?
Any insight on availability? I've filed IC for matte blue, but will be ok for black one as well.
Any updates on when this ships? Its supposedly mid-april.
Any updates on when this ships? Its supposedly mid-april.
I just found an update on the website:
UPDATE 4/17/18: PCBs are in production. Sample was sent to us and passed inspection. Shipment will be delayed a few weeks to early May.
Email I got yesterday stated the following:
Good news! The PCBs and Plates have shipped from the factories! The parts should be in my possession by Friday. I plan to test a random bunch of PCBs and start fulfillment after the Memorial Day holiday weekend pending no issues. This buy will take a little longer to fulfill than a keyset buy, so expect orders to start going out the door all of next week. Orders will be shipped in the order they were placed.
New colors coming next week, and some restocks.
Audi Nardo Grey
Cocaine White
Tanzanite Blue
I've got nothing at all, although I've joined wait list and provided my email.
I guess, google mail spam control worked a bit rough this time.
Also, where can we check that grey?
Could you kindly show us a picture of which part of top case needs to be modified or cut?
Thank you for the info, very useful. Please share a real pic of your modified case in the future if that happens.
Cheers!
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat? 😅
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat?
I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication!
I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last!
https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat?
I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication!
I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last!
https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock
Any updates on nardo grey?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat?
I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication!
I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last!
https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock
Any updates on nardo grey?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ive got them in house. I will open orders again next week once everything is shipped out. I want to focus my efforts on fullfillment as its a bit more time consuming than I had anticipated.
Nardo Grey (https://imgur.com/XsDJW8A) looks pretty dope though!
Show Image(http:// (Attachment Link) )
GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.
Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.
Please fill out this form if you are interested. (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit)
Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.
If the prefix is MX it will fit any MX style switch. "Black" in this case refers to the color of the plate. The alps prefix would be if you wanted to do an Alps plate build rather than Cherry.Show Image(http:// (Attachment Link) )
GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.
Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.
Please fill out this form if you are interested. (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit)
Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.
Why does it ask “what color plate” on the form and the choices are prefixed with mx or alps? If I choose mx Black, does that mean that the plate is black and it only fits with mx blacks? Or is the color plate black and I can fit it with any mx switch?
Sorry for the newb question
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If the prefix is MX it will fit any MX style switch. "Black" in this case refers to the color of the plate. The alps prefix would be if you wanted to do an Alps plate build rather than Cherry.Show Image(http:// (Attachment Link) )
GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.
Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.
Please fill out this form if you are interested. (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit)
Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.
Why does it ask “what color plate” on the form and the choices are prefixed with mx or alps? If I choose mx Black, does that mean that the plate is black and it only fits with mx blacks? Or is the color plate black and I can fit it with any mx switch?
Sorry for the newb question
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.
1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?
2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?
Show Image(http:// (Attachment Link) )
GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.
Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.
Please fill out this form if you are interested. (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit)
Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.
Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.
1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?
2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?
1. You would need to source a connector to use it in a TX1800, or desolder the one present and switch locations. The 90 Degree connector is there for use with TKC1800 and G8X-1800 variants. I will have some of the connectors for sale soon.
2. I never got my Tx1800 so I was unable to test the prototype in the case. The USB location we set up for the TX1800 is slightly off to one side when you mount it in the case. You can use it, its just a tight fit. We are correcting that on Rev2.
Hope this helps.
Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.
1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?
2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?
1. You would need to source a connector to use it in a TX1800, or desolder the one present and switch locations. The 90 Degree connector is there for use with TKC1800 and G8X-1800 variants. I will have some of the connectors for sale soon.
2. I never got my Tx1800 so I was unable to test the prototype in the case. The USB location we set up for the TX1800 is slightly off to one side when you mount it in the case. You can use it, its just a tight fit. We are correcting that on Rev2.
Hope this helps.
Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.
Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?
Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.
Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?
I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.
But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented. :'(
Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.
Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?
I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.
But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented. :'(
Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.
Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?
I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.
But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented. :'(
Sorry to hear you had a bad experience. I know the feeling all too well from lots of underwhelming keyboards and failures of my own in the past.
Whenever I have a crooked key like that I usually just get the solder hot (on the lower pin, the stiffer/thicker one) and twist it with firmly with a keycap on. But not to worry, it should be an easy fix to hotwire/flywire that backslash. Mine is still on the way, and I find it strange that the usb doesn't fit right.
What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.
What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.
Did you try this?
https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc (https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc)
Or you can always drop a line to orders@thekey.company (http://mailto:orders@thekey.company)
Sorry about the confusion! Was just me being crazy/impatient and dying to get my board. Got a reply and mine should be shipping out sometime this weekend!What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.
Did you try this?
https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc (https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc)
Or you can always drop a line to orders@thekey.company (http://mailto:orders@thekey.company)
Yeah I originally used the first link and got a reply back pretty quickly. I haven't received a reply after the first one though. I'll go ahead and send over another through that first link though, thanks!
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
Four plastic clips on the bottom of the case. Push them towards the cable-hole edge.
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
You have to use something to pry the tabs from the back, use something plastic like a car trim removal tool if you really want to be safe. That is the only way I know how.
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
Four plastic clips on the bottom of the case. Push them towards the cable-hole edge.
I got mine today. I had to spend two hours figuring out and fixing why it wouldn't go together. I'm glad that I paid to have it pre cut for the plate (becasue I wouldn't have known where to start cutting), but the cuts weren't 100% right. Mostly it was the cuts around the arrow cluster and right below the NCS indicator that weren't deep enough. After a lot of careful scraping (I have a dremel, but I would suggest using a box knife for more control) I was able to get it to fit correctly.Thanks for the update. I’d love to read a full review once you get everything sorted out.
Also, my PCB does rattle a bit in the top right, so I think I would like to try adding the two case screws whenever they become available. I'm not sure if they will go in though. It looks like screw holes on the PCB are designed about 1mm off.
If screws don't work I'm sure I could put some wedging material in there to keep the PCB pressed firmly.
Speaking of material to put in the case... I would say this sucker really needs some shelf liner or foam. Let me clarify that I am a HUGE fan of plastic cases and the way they sound. This one... er... it sounds not so good. Its clacky, but in a bad/cheap way. I think an insert would probably make it sound much nicer though. I'll have to report back on that one.
I'll probably write up a full review once I get it fully build and trimmed out.
I got mine today. I had to spend two hours figuring out and fixing why it wouldn't go together. I'm glad that I paid to have it pre cut for the plate (becasue I wouldn't have known where to start cutting), but the cuts weren't 100% right. Mostly it was the cuts around the arrow cluster and right below the NCS indicator that weren't deep enough. After a lot of careful scraping (I have a dremel, but I would suggest using a box knife for more control) I was able to get it to fit correctly.
Also, my PCB does rattle a bit in the top right, so I think I would like to try adding the two case screws whenever they become available. I'm not sure if they will go in though. It looks like screw holes on the PCB are designed about 1mm off.
If screws don't work I'm sure I could put some wedging material in there to keep the PCB pressed firmly.
Speaking of material to put in the case... I would say this sucker really needs some shelf liner or foam. Let me clarify that I am a HUGE fan of plastic cases and the way they sound. This one... er... it sounds not so good. Its clacky, but in a bad/cheap way. I think an insert would probably make it sound much nicer though. I'll have to report back on that one.
I'll probably write up a full review once I get it fully build and trimmed out.
I finally got all the kinks worked out and put this thing together. I was surprised how well it goes with SA 1965. I had actually been planning to sell that set since it didn't go with any of my keyboards. Now I'm keeping it ;D
But now I need to find a 1.75u right SHIFT key. I had to borrow CAPS LOCK from SA Carbon, which isn't even the right row profile, not to mention color.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wckGITZ.jpg)
I finally got all the kinks worked out and put this thing together. I was surprised how well it goes with SA 1965. I had actually been planning to sell that set since it didn't go with any of my keyboards. Now I'm keeping it ;D
But now I need to find a 1.75u right SHIFT key. I had to borrow CAPS LOCK from SA Carbon, which isn't even the right row profile, not to mention color.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wckGITZ.jpg)
That looks really cool. What switches did you use? Also, did you put any sound dampener in the case?
Anyone have suggestions for inserts within the case? I’ve gotten it apart and plan to solder everything soon, but am noticing how light the board is.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Anyone have suggestions for inserts within the case? I’ve gotten it apart and plan to solder everything soon, but am noticing how light the board is.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've noticed a key blocking issue on mine. If I hold both right and left SHIFT keys while pressing the "?/" key, the key press is blocked. I can't think of when this would be an issue except maybe with weird function layer layout. Just thought it was odd.
Got an email from TKC today: Tanzanite Blue cases (likely the second batch only) had to be reworked and should hopefully be finished again tomorrow.
They also oversold the cyan plates, and the only alternatives are Black, Red, Orange, Purple, Green and alps.
Wheres those build logs? I want to see an Alps TKC1800! Show em off!
Lastly, I will have more diffusers in stock soon for the case fronts, this time in colors to match the plates. They will be for sale on the site.
Lastly, I will have more diffusers in stock soon for the case fronts, this time in colors to match the plates. They will be for sale on the site.
There's diffusers too?
Hey all. Quick update.
95% shipped.
Hey all. Quick update.
95% shipped.
Will we get any follow up email(s) for the International orders regarding potential proxies etc or will we just get an updated tracking number with our paypal order as per usual?
I shipped everything direct. Was going to use a proxy, ended up costing the same to ship them myself.
You will receive a tracking email direct from TKC when your order ships.
Anyone have suggestions for inserts within the case? I’ve gotten it apart and plan to solder everything soon, but am noticing how light the board is.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Potato pic for ya:
(Attachment Link)
I wasn't part of this particular group buy, but I did order a PCB for a G81-1800 case that I had. I got it put together last Thursday when the PCB arrived.
I'm using Aliaz 70g switches and some GMK Classic Retro caps.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I wasn't part of this particular group buy, but I did order a PCB for a G81-1800 case that I had. I got it put together last Thursday when the PCB arrived.
I'm using Aliaz 70g switches and some GMK Classic Retro caps.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
The PCBs fit without issue, only reason you cut is to fit the switch plate(which is bought separately).
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
The PCBs fit without issue, only reason you cut is to fit the switch plate(which is bought separately).
can anyone tell me which modifications have to be done for the case?
got an extra plate and PCB for my standard g80-1800 too
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
The PCBs fit without issue, only reason you cut is to fit the switch plate(which is bought separately).
can anyone tell me which modifications have to be done for the case?
got an extra plate and PCB for my standard g80-1800 too
Second page of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94381.msg2613442#msg2613442 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94381.msg2613442#msg2613442)
Got my kit the other day and we finished it last night. Looks good. I'll have to post some pics. One questions, however, did anyone else have an issue with a GMK set? I used GMK Aero on mine and the keys in the upper right have different heights. The very top row is tall, the row below that has two short key caps, and the third row down has tall caps again. It still looks pretty good, but the mismatched height is off putting. I realize it is not a failing of this kit, so I am very happy with it. I may just put a row of artisans there to match it up.
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
The PCBs fit without issue, only reason you cut is to fit the switch plate(which is bought separately).
can anyone tell me which modifications have to be done for the case?
got an extra plate and PCB for my standard g80-1800 too
Second page of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94381.msg2613442#msg2613442 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94381.msg2613442#msg2613442)
oh, must have missed it... I looked through this.
oh well, Thanks :)
Potato pic for ya:
(Attachment Link)
Here is a picture of my keyboard. I love it! Used box pale blue switches.
Wheres those build logs? I want to see an Alps TKC1800! Show em off!
Not finished yet, still need my nexus sliders, stabs, indicator LEDs, and caps to finish the build. Currently it is using click modded SKCM Black, but I may put white click leafs in there in the future.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Here is a picture of my keyboard. I love it! Used box pale blue switches.
Gorgeous! Are those caps shown Alps? I’ve been trying to find a kit that will work. I have a few full size Alps boards I could harvest but they need some retrobrite.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Vt4x18M.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/eBi80mB.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iLF07Ts.jpg)
For those who were still wondering about modding the case. This is what I didMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4lPH2iQ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
Gorgeous! Are those caps shown Alps? I’ve been trying to find a kit that will work. I have a few full size Alps boards I could harvest but they need some retrobrite.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Vt4x18M.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/eBi80mB.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iLF07Ts.jpg)
For those who were still wondering about modding the case. This is what I didMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4lPH2iQ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
Thanks for sharing! Nice build!
Gorgeous! Are those caps shown Alps? I’ve been trying to find a kit that will work. I have a few full size Alps boards I could harvest but they need some retrobrite.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Vt4x18M.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/eBi80mB.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iLF07Ts.jpg)
For those who were still wondering about modding the case. This is what I didMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4lPH2iQ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
Thanks for sharing! Nice build!
they're ALPS caps but i cannot for the life of me remember what board they're from
TheyGorgeous! Are those caps shown Alps? I’ve been trying to find a kit that will work. I have a few full size Alps boards I could harvest but they need some retrobrite.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Vt4x18M.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/eBi80mB.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iLF07Ts.jpg)
For those who were still wondering about modding the case. This is what I didMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4lPH2iQ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
Thanks for sharing! Nice build!
they're ALPS caps but i cannot for the life of me remember what board they're from
They are dye subbed PBT cap from IBM multistation boards. The legends are much thicker than Dell AT101 and the numpad has maroon sublegends.
For those who already assembled the board, which usb cable works to route it through the hole on the case?
Does anyone know if a build log for this kit is online somewhere?
What part in particular are you needing info on?
Mainly USB cable related. I came across a post describing cable issues they ran into (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8rnj4g/tkc1800_67g_zealio_r10sa_carbon/e0vspvb/) and wanted to see if others had to perform any workarounds as well.What part in particular are you needing info on?
Any estimate on when the form for the extra Tanzanite Blue's will go up?
I had a co-worker that fell in love with mine (pics once MaxKey Calm Depths arrives) who wants one for himself.
... I will be re-upping plates and PCBs later this month. Should be about a 6 week lead time. ...
... I will be re-upping plates and PCBs later this month. Should be about a 6 week lead time. ...
I presume this mid-june post means that new PCBs will be available sometime August-ish?
I am looking at getting just a PCB, I presume this may be possible sometime in the future based on the above?
Thanks!
Any update on when the white cases might be in?
Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.
Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.
Sorry, I know, its overdue.
The only thing you really need to know aside from the basics of keyboard building are:
1. Dont over tighten the screws on the stabs. Snug is all you need. This goes for any board with screw in stabs, if you over tighten it can cut through the solder mask and short the board.
2. The USB cable gets routed this way. (https://i.imgur.com/nUJWoht.jpg)
3. There are no screws. The plate / PCB sub assembly will set into the top portion of the case and align themselves with the large pins molded into the plastic case.
4. Programming : QMK has a ton of resources available. But the PCB comes pre-programmed for the most common 1800 layout. Im about to update another keymap that has the 2u "+" as the one pre programmed uses the 1u "+"
I hope this helps a little for now. I am leaving town tomorrow for KeyCon, will return on Sunday and will start shipping Drifter. After that I should be able to find time.
If you have further questions, GeekHack is a wealth of information regarding keyboard building. Just ask, many are happy to help!
Edit - nvm. I just took out the pcb and looked at it lol.Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.
Sorry, I know, its overdue.
The only thing you really need to know aside from the basics of keyboard building are:
1. Dont over tighten the screws on the stabs. Snug is all you need. This goes for any board with screw in stabs, if you over tighten it can cut through the solder mask and short the board.
2. The USB cable gets routed this way. (https://i.imgur.com/nUJWoht.jpg)
3. There are no screws. The plate / PCB sub assembly will set into the top portion of the case and align themselves with the large pins molded into the plastic case.
4. Programming : QMK has a ton of resources available. But the PCB comes pre-programmed for the most common 1800 layout. Im about to update another keymap that has the 2u "+" as the one pre programmed uses the 1u "+"
Anyone know if these hotswap sockets would work with the TKC1800?
Link to the reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8tuell/these_millmax_hotswap_sockets_are_so_good/?st=JIZE0DCZ&sh=d7f359f5
Where can you buy LEDs for the numlock/capslock/scrl lock indicators on the pcb? Is it default programmed to light up if soldered in? I've never put LEDs on a pcb before.
Where can you buy LEDs for the numlock/capslock/scrl lock indicators on the pcb? Is it default programmed to light up if soldered in? I've never put LEDs on a pcb before.
Yep you just buy LEDs and solder and you are done. You can put 3mm, 1.8mm or other LEDs and be good to go really quickly.
Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?
What is usb centering?Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?
A few changes. But you’ll still have to solder the connector for the TX1800 (Center) yourself. We will have the connectors in stock on the site soon.
What is usb centering?Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?
A few changes. But you’ll still have to solder the connector for the TX1800 (Center) yourself. We will have the connectors in stock on the site soon.
Any update on when white case kits will be shipped?
:thumb:Any update on when white case kits will be shipped?
I’m picking them up tomorrow. If all is well, they’ll shipnout Saturday morning.
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!
So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.
BottomShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/zwQk62f.jpg?1)
TopShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/riCpE97.jpg?1)
Cable, pcbShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/iYWLcqd.jpg?1)
Cable, displayShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/mR0mG4Q.jpg?1)
TestingShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/WH26nPK.jpg)
All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JaxwDAM.jpg?1)
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!
So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.
BottomShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/zwQk62f.jpg?1)
TopShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/riCpE97.jpg?1)
Cable, pcbShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/iYWLcqd.jpg?1)
Cable, displayShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/mR0mG4Q.jpg?1)
TestingShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/WH26nPK.jpg)
All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JaxwDAM.jpg?1)
oh no, that's a bummer... had ISO planned for one of mine... I either have to dremel the plate, OR... or idk
is split left shift possible though with the plate? I could live with ANSI enter easily if I can have split left shift
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!
So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.
BottomShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/zwQk62f.jpg?1)
TopShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/riCpE97.jpg?1)
Cable, pcbShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/iYWLcqd.jpg?1)
Cable, displayShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/mR0mG4Q.jpg?1)
TestingShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/WH26nPK.jpg)
All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JaxwDAM.jpg?1)
oh no, that's a bummer... had ISO planned for one of mine... I either have to dremel the plate, OR... or idk
is split left shift possible though with the plate? I could live with ANSI enter easily if I can have split left shift
Split left shift was no problem.
Any idea if led holtites will fit? I’m debating between soldering and using holtites as I’ve been told they are easier.
On another note, I’ve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?
Thanks for the reply.Any idea if led holtites will fit? I’m debating between soldering and using holtites as I’ve been told they are easier.
On another note, I’ve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?
When you say you tested the switch with a voltmeter, did you test it by itself or soldered in? Have you tested the pads without a switch soldered in with the voltmeter? If you don't get a reading from the bottom of the PCB, try the pads on the top. If you get a reading on the top but not the bottom, you probably overheated the pads and lifted them.
Or do you mean that Fn doesn't register on keyboardtester.com? I've never been able to get an Fn key to register before, so I have to test a key on layer 1 for example to know if it works. If that doesn't work, it could be that you mapped it wrong.
Sorry if you've already tried these. Just trying to understand exactly what you've tried, so that we can find a solution.
Thanks for the reply.Any idea if led holtites will fit? I’m debating between soldering and using holtites as I’ve been told they are easier.
On another note, I’ve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?
When you say you tested the switch with a voltmeter, did you test it by itself or soldered in? Have you tested the pads without a switch soldered in with the voltmeter? If you don't get a reading from the bottom of the PCB, try the pads on the top. If you get a reading on the top but not the bottom, you probably overheated the pads and lifted them.
Or do you mean that Fn doesn't register on keyboardtester.com? I've never been able to get an Fn key to register before, so I have to test a key on layer 1 for example to know if it works. If that doesn't work, it could be that you mapped it wrong.
Sorry if you've already tried these. Just trying to understand exactly what you've tried, so that we can find a solution.
I tested with the switch soldered in from the bottom of the pcb. I put the leads of the meter on the solder points. Pressing the switch produced a result on the meter identical to every other switch (0.02 ohms I think).
Now that you mention it though, I was simply using an online key tester. How else could I test the key in question?
So how do you get the pcb into bootloader/reset mode to flash it with a new hex? There's no Fn key default.
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.
Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.
Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?
please see attached
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.
Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?
Just built mine and I’m having an odd issue. The entire caps lock/enter row doesn’t appear to be working. I thought it might be a problem with the firmware so I tried to just flash the default layout, but I’m QMK firmware builder every time I plug it in, the output screen flies by with a few different errors repeating over and over again (I’ll have to try again in the morning to get the exact errors). Anyone know what it could be? I thought it might be that my screw in gmk stabs might be shorting something?
Yup that was it. Put some electrical tape in between the screws and the PCB and now everything works great.Just built mine and I’m having an odd issue. The entire caps lock/enter row doesn’t appear to be working. I thought it might be a problem with the firmware so I tried to just flash the default layout, but I’m QMK firmware builder every time I plug it in, the output screen flies by with a few different errors repeating over and over again (I’ll have to try again in the morning to get the exact errors). Anyone know what it could be? I thought it might be that my screw in gmk stabs might be shorting something?
You probably overtightentes your stabs. Try backing the screws off a little or install washers on them.
Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.
PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.
Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.
I don't mind waiting, I'm just trying to make sure that everything will be in stock simultaneously. Are you planning on making sure the OLED kit is available concurrently as well, or should I grab one soon in anticipation of eventually getting the kit?
I have a question for anybody whose installed the PCB and plate into the Dolch PAC's G80-1813: is everything held into place by the plate cutouts on the upper part of the case, or is there a better method? The screw holes don't line up at all, unfortunately.
Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
Hi, fellas it must be a noob question but when I
(1) got the hex file using: https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
(2) and flashed the hex file (both flip and QMK toolbox), the default LED control was 'breathing'.
But I wanna have static LEDs. Should I compile something? Thanks in advance, and pic of the board:
(Attachment Link)
Hi, fellas it must be a noob question but when I
(1) got the hex file using: https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
(2) and flashed the hex file (both flip and QMK toolbox), the default LED control was 'breathing'.
But I wanna have static LEDs. Should I compile something? Thanks in advance, and pic of the board:
(Attachment Link)
Hmm, I still haven't built mine so I never saw that the default layout didn't have a function layer present yet.
First, you'll want to make one of the keys on the 0 layer a modifier key (MO). This will be a key that, when held, allows you to go to the specified layer. Probably want to pick the right control or menu key for it. Select one of those keys and then click on "MO" in the "Layer Functions" category. You'll need to change the zero to a 1 when it goes on your layout.
(Attachment Link)
Next, click on the layer 1 option and assign a key to be "BL Cycle." I'll use "B" for backlight in this example:
(Attachment Link)
You might as well add some other functionality while you're at it like increase and decrease brightness and some media keys.
Once you have it set like you want, fill in the Keymap name to something unique and press "compile" in the top right of the editor. It will take a few seconds but should finish with a message saying "file size is fine"
(Attachment Link)
You'll then have an option to download the firmware at the bottom:
(Attachment Link)
Flash the new firmware to your board, hold the function key and press your BL Cycle keybind.
Super jealous of that white case. It looks so nice.
Hi! Thanks for lots of details. I doubted my setup so I tried again, but once I press the BL cycle, the LEDs just go off.
Also, when I press the BL toggle, the LEDs are still in breathe mode. Hmmmmm. Maybe the problem is just for mine?
The case gives out retro look so well which I was just hoping to achieve!
Finally got round to building mine, ordered a plate and PCB to fit on a standard white G80-1800.
All in all a great PCB to work with.
The plate however doesn't work with the ISO layout, as a previous post mentioned.
A bit of a nuisance but a quick dremel session fixed that - had to dremel the case anyway.
Will that be fixed in the next round?
Anyways, does anyone know how to change the brightness of the indicator LEDs in QMK, currently it is set at max and it's annoyingly bright.
I can dim it manually by placing masking tape over the LEDs or adding resistors to them but would rather not open up the case again.
Finally got round to building mine, ordered a plate and PCB to fit on a standard white G80-1800.
All in all a great PCB to work with.
The plate however doesn't work with the ISO layout, as a previous post mentioned.
A bit of a nuisance but a quick dremel session fixed that - had to dremel the case anyway.
Will that be fixed in the next round?
Anyways, does anyone know how to change the brightness of the indicator LEDs in QMK, currently it is set at max and it's annoyingly bright.
I can dim it manually by placing masking tape over the LEDs or adding resistors to them but would rather not open up the case again.
I fixed the plate right after the issue was noticed, all new plates have the fix. As for the LEDs I have no idea...
So I am new to all this, and was checking out the site for this kit (https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc1800-kit?variant=12140434620516) and I am wondering, why do they offer additional PCB's and Plates on the order? Are they purely as backup if you mess up the soldering or something in assembly?You can put them in regular cherry g80 1800s.
Also, how often do group buys like this come around? I love the gray and orange scheme, but obviously sold out.
So I am new to all this, and was checking out the site for this kit (https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc1800-kit?variant=12140434620516) and I am wondering, why do they offer additional PCB's and Plates on the order? Are they purely as backup if you mess up the soldering or something in assembly?You can put them in regular cherry g80 1800s.
Also, how often do group buys like this come around? I love the gray and orange scheme, but obviously sold out.
Just realized I never shared my finished build in this thread! Candy Pink TKC-1800 with 67g lubed Zealios and GMK Laser.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/RbySnEO.jpg)
I like it a lot so far! Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to. My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.
Guess I'll post this R1 I made a few months ago, 65g ergo clears. Used on 100 hrs or so of games etc. So far so good, the case is really nice. Got several more R2s ordered lol.
Guess I'll post this R1 I made a few months ago, 65g ergo clears. Used on 100 hrs or so of games etc. So far so good, the case is really nice. Got several more R2s ordered lol.
I like it a lot so far! Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to. My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.
It wont take long....
Any feedback on the finish / build quality?
I like it a lot so far! Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to. My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.
It wont take long....
Any feedback on the finish / build quality?
The finish is top notch. :thumb: I run over it with some cleaning swabs every couple days to keep it nice and glossy. Build quality seems good, has a nice heft to it I didn't expect from a plastic case once fully assembled. The only thing that bugs me is the 2mm or so black seam that stands out where the two halves of the case meet. Shame Cherry didn't originally make it so the two halves fit together more flush.
I bought a board with a TKC 1800 pcb from Mechmarket, I want to use the qmk configurator for a custom layout I want, any pointers on how to an ANSI layout with split left shift and split back space loaded into the configurator?
https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
Thanks.
Hit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious
I'm assuming you are using MX switches. If you are using alps, disregard this entire post :pHit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious
Indeed, I also need to search this thread about the "failed to write..." error [hint: L.shift + R.shift + Pause to enter bootloader in the default firmware].
I really love this board, I'm interested in another PCB (maybe a couple more). The only thing is I have no idea where to source the metal bar for the space bar stabilisers, any ideas?
Hit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious
Indeed, I also need to search this thread about the "failed to write..." error [hint: L.shift + R.shift + Pause to enter bootloader in the default firmware].
I really love this board, I'm interested in another PCB (maybe a couple more). The only thing is I have no idea where to source the metal bar for the space bar stabilisers, any ideas?
Has anyone heard any updates on the last presale stuff? I ordered a black MX plate, and I'm still waiting to get it before I can build my original board :(Was it out of stock? I got all my stuff many months ago from last round. Maybe it will come when the new round stuff comes.
Has anyone heard any updates on the last presale stuff? I ordered a black MX plate, and I'm still waiting to get it before I can build my original board :(
Any update on the next lot of shipments?
I ordered from the website a while back, and it said that they would probably ship around late November. Getting up to around that time and was just wondering if there are any more refined estimated for shipment dates now?
Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input. (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox). I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering. :'( But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts... Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device? Is there a chance I've just fried it?
Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input. (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox). I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering. :'( But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts... Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device? Is there a chance I've just fried it?
Unscrew your screw stabilizers. You're shorting out. You can fix it by putting a piece of electrical tape between the PCB and screw. Poke a he with a needle and the screw can go through.
Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input. (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox). I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering. :'( But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts... Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device? Is there a chance I've just fried it?
Unscrew your screw stabilizers. You're shorting out. You can fix it by putting a piece of electrical tape between the PCB and screw. Poke a he with a needle and the screw can go through.
He's using plastic washers for all the screw-ins so I dont think those are the causes.
Try using a mini usb cable and plug the board in. If it works that means your fixed cable setup is incorrect. I think the black and red wires are in the correct positions, maybe swapping the yellow and teal
So I tried desoldering the RJ-11 connector as suggested, and the board started working again. I checked it out, and that particular jack was shorting out the D+ and GND pins. :/ Fortunately, I had a spare on hand, and was able to replace it. Now it's working great! I'm typing this on that board right now, and it's feeling pretty fantastic.
(Attachment Link)
Could somebody tell me if this is the correct orientation for the RGB's to be installed? The white part goes on the top left part with the line?
This is my first build and i gotta say the white came out so clean
Anyone know why my tkc1800 wouldn't be working on windows10 or mac? Device is recognized no problem on my pc and laptop running windows 7.
Are there any plans to stock PCBs again?
Are there any plans to stock PCBs again?
Will be restocking soon.
Are there any plans to stock PCBs again?
Will be restocking soon.
Will full kits be available? (just got into this hobby recently and missed out on the first round(s))
Not to mention the render with SKIIDATA *insert Fry meme - Shut up and Take my money!*
Is there any update about further pcb, plates and/or kits production? Thanks.
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Seems like a successful GB, are you guys planning another round? :)
There will be some restocks next week! PCBs will be back in stock...
I'm curious about something - how well does the TKC 1800 work without a plate, have you tried it? Would you recommend it? Thanks
The pcb is restocked, I can’t see any other restocks or new items under the tkc1800 section yet though...
What happened with the photo contest?
Oh cool, can't wait to see round 3. My metallic grey is my favorite kb. Thanks for the updateWhat happened with the photo contest?
Gonna kick it off right after we launch the new website! And shortly after we will release R3. I didn't originally plan on it taking this long, however. I may add some consolation prizes for that reason.
Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input. (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox). I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering. :'( But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts... Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device? Is there a chance I've just fried it?Hi, I‘m pretty late to this thread, but still wanted to ask if anyone knows where I can buy this kind of daughterboard for the LEDs thats shown in the image. I have a PAC Case and TKC1800 PCB too and would love using the LEDs without bending them too much to the spot. Thanks in advance :) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/e9974ae6945e2fc9709aac0f7dc941a1.jpg)