At first glance that looks perfect. My first 2 keyboards were MS Naturals, and I have a Kinesis Freestyle somewhere. Didn't start using a regular keyboard until a few years ago, when I wanted to learn be able to use both laptops and 60 % mechanicals - plus I realized the angle of the Naturals made me change the stagger of the left hand keys, so I needed to relearn proper touch typing.Just in case there is a confusion, the left and right side will be two individual PCBs and have their own case, giving the user the flexibility to lay them out as they wish, with an angle or not, the distance, different heights, etc.
That said, your layout looks perfect. Ideally I would want a longer right and shorter left space, but realize that might be hard to fit regular keycaps.I went with the longest key that is still fairly easy to get a hand on, anything longer is very very hard to find and hardly any sets have those keys barring 7bit's Round 5/6.
I like the bottom row. The extra 1.25 key on the left hand looks like a particularly useful thumb key. I assume each Space key is individually programmable?Yes, each key is going to be individually programmable. :)
Am I the only one interested in a split 65%? :(no you now have me wanting one lol.
Looks really great MOZ, lots of options on the bottom row. I kept thinking about it, and in the end I think I like your default layout the best. Will your case be able to sort of snap together, or will they always be separate pieces?
... just physically allow the user to have it placed in the standard 65% layout?
... just physically allow the user to have it placed in the standard 65% layout?
I really just meant this, but I like the idea of adding magnets to actually have the two halves stick when they are placed together. I feel that doing some kind of board-to-board interconnect (like the UHK) would be overly complicated, and the benefits don't necessarily outweigh the complexity.
For small neodymium magnets (3mm x 1mm) once you get about 5mm away there is very little magnetic field. I think it drops off logrithmically from the magnetic source (or some other mathematical function). I don't think it would have much effect on signals out on the edge of the case like that. Strong neodymium magnets are inside of a hard drive ~15mm from the platters, so I don't think you'll mess up the signalling in a keyboard.
Edit: Apparently it's "the magnetic field falls off as the cube of the distance (1/r3)" - here's a neat little calculator (https://www.kjmagnetics.com/calculator.asp).
I like this a lot, if an aluminum case could be made for it I would be all over itI have absolutely no idea how to use 3D CAD tools, if someone would like to, they are more than welcome to, all the required files are on GitHub.
This looks fantastic. This is so close to the layout I want to build. Does the image in the OP represent all the bottom row layouts that the PCB currently supports, or could it also support a bottom row like this?
(Attachment Link)
I was about to ask why you had the buffer for the leds, and then I answered my own question when I realized that the MCU is 3.3v... I'm a little slow.
This looks fantastic. This is so close to the layout I want to build. Does the image in the OP represent all the bottom row layouts that the PCB currently supports, or could it also support a bottom row like this?
(Attachment Link)
The image in the OP represents all the layouts possible for either sides, so you can mix a left and right side configuration, however those are the only possible layouts for each side. The bottom row split is 7.25 - 8.75, the one you have posted is 7.5 - 8.5. Also, the matrix has only 5 switch positions on the left side, your suggest layout has 6.
MoreSo.........
In a dramatic turn of events last week, I have now moved the project to an AVR based solution. The reason is that I started working on the firmware, however the WS2812B libraries I intended to use are C++, and the kiibohd controller firmware in C, I did try to get them to work together bud didn't. So without beating around the bush, I decided to go with QMK, as it has support for MCP23018 for split design as well as WS2812B LEDs and backlight LEDs.
Now the exciting news, I've spent my free time the last 3 days flashing a variant of the LUFA Mass Storage class bootloader and now I've got a ProMicro that runs the user application when plugged in and after grounding the RESET pin shows up as a Mass Storage device on the system. So all you have to do is replace the FLASH.BIN and replug the device. Voila!
I'm really happy about this, as it means if the user has a hex file, they don't need any special software on the system, so a web configurator like MassDrop/Infinity would be great with this solution. For a desktop application like JigOn/EasyAVR, generating the bin file and then sending it to the Mass Storage device shouldn't be an issue either. For the super-efficient, command-line to compile the bin file and copy it to the Mass Storage deivce should be trivial.
Now moving forward:
1. Redesign the PCB with new controller. Idea is to use microUSB/USB Type C to connect to PC on left side and USB Type C/USB3.0 to connect the two halves. I'm keen on using the Type C because I need 6 connections between the two halves, the Type C is designed for repeated connects, so it should be robust.
2. Redesign the case. With the bulk of the controller parts being on the left side and only the MCP23018 will be on the right side, I'm thinking to bring symmetry to the design, have the controller parts in two column width on the left of the left hand and remove the extra area on the top part of the PCBs.
3. Make the required changes to the QMK firmware to support the matrix, configure RGB LEDs, and configure backlight.
4. Make a configurator for the layout as well as LED options. Still to decide which one first, web or desktop? What do you think?
4. Make a configurator for the layout as well as LED options. Still to decide which one first, web or desktop? What do you think?
4. Make a configurator for the layout as well as LED options. Still to decide which one first, web or desktop? What do you think?
If you're going to do both, I'd target web first for ease-of-use-for-everyone. If it's running QMK/TMK, then even if the web version goes away as a result of loss of webserver/service etc... it can still be managed/maintained The Old Fashioned Way.
4. Make a configurator for the layout as well as LED options. Still to decide which one first, web or desktop? What do you think?
If you're going to do both, I'd target web first for ease-of-use-for-everyone. If it's running QMK/TMK, then even if the web version goes away as a result of loss of webserver/service etc... it can still be managed/maintained The Old Fashioned Way.
Hmm, in terms of ease of use, I don't think the EasyAVR is hard at all, just download and run the exe. Granted the extra step of downloading the tool.
MOZ, I think you know more than I do at this point - reading the work you've done and thought you've put into this. I'm still making toys :p , you've got something really amazing here. I'm curious, however, why you moved AT90 to the left side, isn't that the smaller PCB? It doesn't really matter, just wondering. Will there be space in the Left side case to fit optional BT & LiPo? Just thinking out loud.
Just a few minor thoughts:
- I believe R24 should be a 33 Ohm resistor on the Din line for the WS2812b LEDs.
- related to that, with the halves split, I wonder if there should be another 33 Ohm on the Din for the right half. The WS2811 sheet actually has them on every IC (but they don't seem to be necessary) - just thinking with the split, it might help smooth out the data signal.
- I really like that the Planck PCB includes a small SMT indicator LED so you know the microcontroller is running - I'm adding that to the bottom of every project at this point, it's a great feature - it's also easily disabled by just removing the LED or resistor - I'm assuming the other LEDs are for caps & layer indicators
- Even though you've thought of everything, it might be nice to break out some of those extra pins Just In Case
Also, do you plan to add circuitry to utilize the battery as a range extender for electric vehicles? I have a prius kit with 300g lubed and stickered shifter knob coming in the mail soon.
I was actually just kicking around the idea of making a split 60% after seeing the Vergo Type T. Might just use what you've done already to give my project a head start.Sure by all means, I'm working on testing certain parts out and then should have my schematics complete, at which point, I'll be uploading them to GitHub, and you are more than welcome to use that as a base to start your project. I did in fact look into making the two halves wireless, the primary reason I did not go with that was programming. From my understanding, the best way would have been using the Bluetooth module on the slave half to read the matrix as well and then send the keystrokes via BT to the master half and that can communicate with the PC. Issue here is, I've got no prior in embedded programming and would just hit a roadblock when it came to programming for the BT module. Hence I let this go.
Have you looked into the two halves being wireless from each other? Especially now that you're already adding lipo's to the mix. That was one feature I really want on my build, I have a few "HC-05" bluetooth modules on order to test if they would be fast enough. I would rather the two halves be wireless of each other and the keyboard itself be wired to the PC but that's just my preference.
Would be happy volunteer to attempt an aluminum CNC'd case once the PCB is finalized.I would very much appreciate your help if you can design an aluminum housing for this once the PCB design is finished. As I had mentioned earlier as well, I am infact looking for someone to help me out with the 3D CAD modelling of the case, as I have never touched that aspect of keyboard designing. Thanks!
I have decent experience in 3D CAD/modeling and links to CNC factories in Shenzhen/China since I am located in Hong Kong.
Also, do you plan to add circuitry to utilize the battery as a range extender for electric vehicles? I have a prius kit with 300g lubed and stickered shifter knob coming in the mail soon.
LOLed too hard at that. Maybe ;)I was actually just kicking around the idea of making a split 60% after seeing the Vergo Type T. Might just use what you've done already to give my project a head start.Sure by all means, I'm working on testing certain parts out and then should have my schematics complete, at which point, I'll be uploading them to GitHub, and you are more than welcome to use that as a base to start your project. I did in fact look into making the two halves wireless, the primary reason I did not go with that was programming. From my understanding, the best way would have been using the Bluetooth module on the slave half to read the matrix as well and then send the keystrokes via BT to the master half and that can communicate with the PC. Issue here is, I've got no prior in embedded programming and would just hit a roadblock when it came to programming for the BT module. Hence I let this go.
Have you looked into the two halves being wireless from each other? Especially now that you're already adding lipo's to the mix. That was one feature I really want on my build, I have a few "HC-05" bluetooth modules on order to test if they would be fast enough. I would rather the two halves be wireless of each other and the keyboard itself be wired to the PC but that's just my preference.Would be happy volunteer to attempt an aluminum CNC'd case once the PCB is finalized.I would very much appreciate your help if you can design an aluminum housing for this once the PCB design is finished. As I had mentioned earlier as well, I am infact looking for someone to help me out with the 3D CAD modelling of the case, as I have never touched that aspect of keyboard designing. Thanks!
I have decent experience in 3D CAD/modeling and links to CNC factories in Shenzhen/China since I am located in Hong Kong.
Thanks!
Sure by all means, I'm working on testing certain parts out and then should have my schematics complete, at which point, I'll be uploading them to GitHub, and you are more than welcome to use that as a base to start your project. I did in fact look into making the two halves wireless, the primary reason I did not go with that was programming. From my understanding, the best way would have been using the Bluetooth module on the slave half to read the matrix as well and then send the keystrokes via BT to the master half and that can communicate with the PC. Issue here is, I've got no prior in embedded programming and would just hit a roadblock when it came to programming for the BT module. Hence I let this go.
Working on a project at work, it struck me that I had complicated this and the TS65 project too much and had strayed away from the initial idea. I was also working on the cases for both of them over the weekend and realised the TS65 looked rather ugly with the extra bare space on the left side. The final straw was that I've been flooded with a lot of work IRL and I need a split design board to use for the long hours at work now that I've sold my Ergodox.
What this all means, is I'll be toning down both the project. For the SAMPad it only means removing the 3.3V regulator. For the TS65, I'll not be implementing wireless and rotary encoder (As there is no place for it). RGB LEDs, buzzer and trackpoint extension will stay.
Following this line of thought, I've updated the GitHub repo for SAMPad to Rev 0.4 with the changes implemented. I also pushed Rev 0.3 before I pushed 0.4, so it's up there for anyone to explore.
This is relevant here too:Cutting back the scope to maintain the vision and integrity of the project? That's a rock star designer/developer right there my friends. I can't wait for the group buy Moz.Working on a project at work, it struck me that I had complicated this and the TS65 project too much and had strayed away from the initial idea. I was also working on the cases for both of them over the weekend and realised the TS65 looked rather ugly with the extra bare space on the left side. The final straw was that I've been flooded with a lot of work IRL and I need a split design board to use for the long hours at work now that I've sold my Ergodox.
What this all means, is I'll be toning down both the project. For the SAMPad it only means removing the 3.3V regulator. For the TS65, I'll not be implementing wireless and rotary encoder (As there is no place for it). RGB LEDs, buzzer and trackpoint extension will stay.
Following this line of thought, I've updated the GitHub repo for SAMPad to Rev 0.4 with the changes implemented. I also pushed Rev 0.3 before I pushed 0.4, so it's up there for anyone to explore.
I like this a lot, if an aluminum case could be made for it I would be all over itI have absolutely no idea how to use 3D CAD tools, if someone would like to, they are more than welcome to, all the required files are on GitHub.
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Finally the layered acrylic case design is done, here is a snapshot of the SVG file (Uploaded to GitHub)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5R819rU.png)
As usual suggestions, critics, questions welcome. :)
Cutting back the scope to maintain the vision and integrity of the project? That's a rock star designer/developer right there my friends. I can't wait for the group buy Moz.(http://i.imgur.com/UIgnGrH.jpg)
i'm in the process of simplifying another split keyboard case for CNC machining to reduce the number of layers / complexity of assembly and give an over all different look to cases such as these. if you dont mind i may give this a look as well and see what i can come up with. open source designs of course. if i get anywhere with it i'll link to a share and github repo for it. :thumb:
love the split keyboard idea. looks great!
Cutting back the scope to maintain the vision and integrity of the project? That's a rock star designer/developer right there my friends. I can't wait for the group buy Moz.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UIgnGrH.jpg)i'm in the process of simplifying another split keyboard case for CNC machining to reduce the number of layers / complexity of assembly and give an over all different look to cases such as these. if you dont mind i may give this a look as well and see what i can come up with. open source designs of course. if i get anywhere with it i'll link to a share and github repo for it. :thumb:
love the split keyboard idea. looks great!
I've redone the case for the SAMPad, will be posting it soon. What I've gone with is a top and bottom piece of 3mm acrylic or 1.5mm alu/steel with a middle portion of 8mm or 10mm acrylic piece.
What's different is that there will be an optional 2mm matte acrylic diffuser piece that will sit inside the thicker middle piece, just above the bottom piece. There will be some cutouts for the thicker parts such as USB, reset switch, buzzer etc on this piece. The layer will serve the purpose of diffusing the light to the edges without having a semi-transparent bottom (Which many don't like).
Oh, forgot to mention, you can make whatever case you want. Once I have the PCB finalised, you can use the PCB outline to make whatever case you want, no need to ask for permission, it's open source for this reason :P
Cutting back the scope to maintain the vision and integrity of the project? That's a rock star designer/developer right there my friends. I can't wait for the group buy Moz.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UIgnGrH.jpg)
Lol, I was serious... I debated and even edited it to sound less sarcastic. Can't wait duder.
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cool i'll be looking forward to checking that out.
Phew, I'm finally done with rev 0.6, which is also the third time I've rerouted the whole PCB. I was able to retain the rotary encoder as I needed extra space above the top row because of the large USB 3.0 receptacle.
Will clean up the files and upload to GitHub this weekend. I also intend to place the order for 5 PCBs with PCBWay for the TS65 and SAMPad.
There is no wireless support. I have however, broken out the TX/RX pins for those that really want to convert it to a BT device without adding native support. Power consumption hasn't been optimized to run off battery. This is not "advertised" as a BT device, it is however BT convertible. Personally, I believe if BT has to be added, it should be done properly, ie. power consumption optimised for at the very least of one week's worth of battery, if not at least a month. Having two MCU's, an AVR based one for the scanning and USB communication and another one for BT is redundant, better to have one MCU do all of it (Some GHers have started working on this). Perhaps if there is a good open-source project based around this idea, I would look at redesigning the board for BT around it, but right now, there's none.
Pretty much endgame for me..... I think
BOM will be uploaded soon. Regarding the PCB, expect a PM ;)
Update!I look forward to the EasyEDA review :thumb:
Things are moving ahead, I've ordered a batch of 5 PCBs from Easy EDA. BTW, their support is great and they have the best prices online for small orders I'll try to do a proper review of their quality once they arrive, I was impatient and used Express Shipping. Also getting a SS stencil from them. It was cheaper than OSH Stencils.
Parts are also being ordered from Digi-Key (Thanks mrbishop!) and Mouser. Had to order from both as Digi-Key was more expensive and had crazy shipping. Mouser has am office here in India and was cheaper as well cheap shipping using DHL.
I got myself a cheap hot air station of eBay.in to speed-up and ease the process of soldering the boards.Will be using solder paste and hot air for the first time, wish me luck!
Yup, this is my first time with them, but they have a a surprisingly decent online EDA (PCB design) tool, fab PCBs, can make SS stencils at prices much lower than elsewhere and also do assembly (Not sure on the minimum order and pricing). Quality based on the photos posted by some of their customers look good, but it's hard to gauge the size of the tracks and vias from the photos. Should have the PCBs in a couple of weeks.I'm actually finding it hard to find reviews or pictures about them.
Yeah, I couldn't find much reviews as well so I sent them an email, they directed me to this thread, https://easyeda.com/forum/topic/Whos_ordered_PCBs_-L71VduMGY. He gave me a small discount when I enquired about the quality and said 100% refund if the aren't up to the mark.Thanks for the info, I missed that. What did you pay for express shipping?
It's says on the website that they ship in 3-4 days, it's also what I was told by email.
hmmm. so how did you design the key placement. script? it doesn't support importing DXF files yet. i'm assuming you probably used the SVG.Pretty sure MOZ is only using the PCB fab service, and importing gerbers from KiCAD.
hmmm. so how did you design the key placement. script? it doesn't support importing DXF files yet. i'm assuming you probably used the SVG.Pretty sure MOZ is only using the PCB fab service, and importing gerbers from KiCAD.
hmmm. so how did you design the key placement. script? it doesn't support importing DXF files yet. i'm assuming you probably used the SVG.Pretty sure MOZ is only using the PCB fab service, and importing gerbers from KiCAD.
probably right. i was just tinkering with it as ive never really given it a good go.
Yeay, PCBs arrived. 3 days for production and 2 days for shipping f4om Hong Kong to India via DHL. Very fast service, also The quality looks great, via are more or less perfectly centered, board is routed perfectly and no charge edges too. I'll try and get a scan done tomorrow.Great news! I'll be ordering soon then.
Yeay, PCBs arrived. 3 days for production and 2 days for shipping from Hong Kong to India via DHL. Very fast service, also the quality looks great, vias are more or less perfectly centered, board is routed perfectly and no sharp edges too. I'll try and get a scan done tomorrow. Didn't have to pay any customs fee.
Last Friday I ordered the components from Mouser, shipped same day from US and arrived at my doorstep on Monday. Again DHL and only $20 shipping, although I did have to pay 25% duties.
I've been down with a flu since Thursday evening. Haven't gone to work since, but it is looking good. I should be able to make it to work tomorrow.
MOZ, is this more a personal project / one off or are you planning on making it a group buy? looks fantastic so far!Personal project for now, I intend to make three for myself (Work, home, travel) and the other two PCBs if functional already have takers.
Whoa. Those are a lot of layout options... And all backlit... Two orientations of backlit ISO Return switch and even 1.25×1u Return?There is only one orientation for the ISO return, not sure which is the second one you are seeing. Yes, there is support for 1.25+1U Return.
It looks like the break-away seam at the bottom might be bit too close to a stabiliser mount hole, though.
There is only one orientation for the ISO return, not sure which is the second one you are seeing.I was just confused by the pin holes for adjacent switch positions. :-[
There is only one orientation for the ISO return, not sure which is the second one you are seeing.I was just confused by the pin holes for adjacent switch positions. :-[
MOZ, is this more a personal project / one off or are you planning on making it a group buy? looks fantastic so far!Personal project for now, I intend to make three for myself (Work, home, travel) and the other two PCBs if functional already have takers.Whoa. Those are a lot of layout options... And all backlit... Two orientations of backlit ISO Return switch and even 1.25×1u Return?There is only one orientation for the ISO return, not sure which is the second one you are seeing. Yes, there is support for 1.25+1U Return.
It looks like the break-away seam at the bottom might be bit too close to a stabiliser mount hole, though.
When I get to building it and snap the two PCBs, I'll have to see if it is too close or just close enough :)) Either way for mass production, I would recommend against any tabs between the two halves, rather have two thicker support bars at the top and bottom with the holes/fiducials/etc according to the pick-n-place assembly machine.
Although, the stabiliser thing just made me realise something that I had overlooked, once I get back home, I'll have to check if the overlapping stab holes are in fact overlapping holes or slots. Slots might be problematic I think.
Yeay, first test build was successful! Hot air soldering is so much faster!
I used Easy AVR to program the board, all keys registering, indicator LEDs working as they should. I haven't got my switches yet, so I just shorted the switch pins to test and it's working.
Also, I forgot the backlight LEDs are current controlled from the driver, so to test the LED I just put one in through the holes and it was BRIGHT! In two seconds it died, 200mA going through a single LED can't be good. THis was the 2x3x4mm LED off ebay, rated for 20mA
Will now try to program it using QMK, and test the audio and RGB LEDs (Still waiting to receive the RGB LEDs as well). Already discovered that to use the buzzer, I'll have to swap the buzzer pin (B4) with another pin (C6) as the Timer 3 is used for the buzzer in QMK. Oh well, will get to it soon.
...
Now the exciting news, I've spent my free time the last 3 days flashing a variant of the LUFA Mass Storage class bootloader and now I've got a ProMicro that runs the user application when plugged in and after grounding the RESET pin shows up as a Mass Storage device on the system. So all you have to do is replace the FLASH.BIN and replug the device. Voila!
I'm really happy about this, as it means if the user has a hex file, they don't need any special software on the system, so a web configurator like MassDrop/Infinity would be great with this solution. For a desktop application like JigOn/EasyAVR, generating the bin file and then sending it to the Mass Storage device shouldn't be an issue either. For the super-efficient, command-line to compile the bin file and copy it to the Mass Storage deivce should be trivial.
...
Tutorial on? Mass Storage bootloader?
Tutorial on? Mass Storage bootloader?
On the SAMPad I'm testing right now, I am not using Mass Storage bootloader, however I did test it with one of the Pro Micro's.
The real advantage of a Mass Storage bootlaoder is if you have an online configurator where the the user can make their keymap and then just download and copy onto the storage. If you are using TMK/QMK/EasyAVR, the advantage isn't that prominent. With TMK/QMK, when you setup the environment to compile your firmware, you setup DFU as well and can do "make dfu" which builds the firmware and then flashes it via DFU. With EasyAVR, the latest version comes bundled with the tools to upload the firmware directly.
But yes, with a Mass Storage bootloader, there is the advantage that you need one less tool to load the firmware. Flashing the LUFA Mass Storage bootloader however requires an ISP programmer.
It's been a busy couple of months, relocating to South Africa and then my laptop died too.
Anyways, I don't think this will be done for a while now as I will again be travelling for a few months due to work in two weeks. Oh well...
the community needs this :thumb:
the community needs this :thumb:
From what I've seen, 3 split 65s are OTW :))
Good to know your still doing well Moz.
if anyone has a full BOM that would be great to help out with getting a quote together for PCB+assembly from a manufacturer.
just want to ensure i select all the proper components ;)
Ive managed to piggy back off of the track point clock line to have rgb work on both sides. There is something wrong with the current design but should be an easy pcb design fix. Once I have time to update the pcb I will do so and submit a pull request.
Please excuse my messy desk :P
Ive managed to piggy back off of the track point clock line to have rgb work on both sides. There is something wrong with the current design but should be an easy pcb design fix. Once I have time to update the pcb I will do so and submit a pull request.
Please excuse my messy desk :P
Good to know your still doing well Moz.
if anyone has a full BOM that would be great to help out with getting a quote together for PCB+assembly from a manufacturer.
just want to ensure i select all the proper components ;)
awesome. let me know when its all the way done if it isn't already and i'll start poking around my manufacturing sources for quotes on afew pre-assembled.
awesome. let me know when its all the way done if it isn't already and i'll start poking around my manufacturing sources for quotes on afew pre-assembled.
I think I'm gonna need a sleek case for this one soon.
Is there a way to have holes in the wooden cases you build that are filled in with translucent material?
awesome. let me know when its all the way done if it isn't already and i'll start poking around my manufacturing sources for quotes on afew pre-assembled.
I think I'm gonna need a sleek case for this one soon.
Is there a way to have holes in the wooden cases you build that are filled in with translucent material?
i could probably design something to allow for a clear bottom so that the under glow shines out the bottom of the case. lots of ways to accomplish what you are looking for.
having the PCB's makes it easier to design things... hint hint wink wink :p :p :thumb: :thumb:
awesome. let me know when its all the way done if it isn't already and i'll start poking around my manufacturing sources for quotes on afew pre-assembled.
I think I'm gonna need a sleek case for this one soon.
Is there a way to have holes in the wooden cases you build that are filled in with translucent material?
i could probably design something to allow for a clear bottom so that the under glow shines out the bottom of the case. lots of ways to accomplish what you are looking for.
having the PCB's makes it easier to design things... hint hint wink wink :p :p :thumb: :thumb:
One of the PCBs I ordered was DOA. I can ship it to ya if you need something to work off of.
I know that isnt ideal but the rest are already accounted for. (these werent cheap !)
awesome. let me know when its all the way done if it isn't already and i'll start poking around my manufacturing sources for quotes on afew pre-assembled.
I think I'm gonna need a sleek case for this one soon.
Is there a way to have holes in the wooden cases you build that are filled in with translucent material?
i could probably design something to allow for a clear bottom so that the under glow shines out the bottom of the case. lots of ways to accomplish what you are looking for.
having the PCB's makes it easier to design things... hint hint wink wink :p :p :thumb: :thumb:
One of the PCBs I ordered was DOA. I can ship it to ya if you need something to work off of.
I know that isnt ideal but the rest are already accounted for. (these werent cheap !)
that would be perfect! i do want a working one but i can wait. having something to do dry fits i dont have to worry about breaking is always nice. PM me
Update coming next week!
@MajorKoos, looks great, do you have a PCB?
This week has been crazy with 12 hour work days, looking forward to the weekend.
That's great news, ff someone can test alps, that'd be sweet, although I don't envision any issues.
Finally done.Gorgeous! Can't wait!
I've submitted a PR to the repo with some adjustments.
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Looks great Major. Which firmware are you using?
Hmm, sounds about what I'm doing. Did you have any issues merging with the current QMK? Do you mind sending me another PR to https://github.com/mohitg11/qmk_firmware ? I'll add a submodule in the main repo later.
Build a PCB yesterday, however I'm having issues with my internet, so can't flash firmware as I don't have the tools. @Majorkoos, would you be kind enough to upload your hex file, I'd just like to test with FLIP on my work laptop.
One thing that has me worried with my build is that when I connected it, windows didn't detect any HW. RGB LEDs did flash briefly (Which is expect behavior). None of the USB pins are shorted, and I used my loupe to make sure nothing was shorted on the MCU. Will need to debug with my multimeter tonight.
Does any one have PCBs for sale for this one? Really want to buy one, as I'm in Bulgaria and PCB companies quote me a little be too much for this one without any components on it. So I would love to buy one even only the PCB
Does any one have PCBs for sale for this one? Really want to buy one, as I'm in Bulgaria and PCB companies quote me a little be too much for this one without any components on it. So I would love to buy one even only the PCB
I might have a couple extras, and components too, but they need to be soldered as well as require some hot fixes (cut traces and reroute)
I'll let you guys know, going to be honest, I'd like to do a new revision with the fixes done, some have already been done by smokemm. I would like to send the first versions out to whoever is interested in designing an aluminum case.
I'll let you guys know, going to be honest, I'd like to do a new revision with the fixes done, some have already been done by smokemm. I would like to send the first versions out to whoever is interested in designing an aluminum case.
That's the best choice probably, I sure can wait for a revised PCB. An aluminum case to go with it would be even better, although for starters an acrylic, Let's split style case would be nice too.
I'll let you know soon enough.
As for the board, it's up and running (no surprises, two guys already have one operational before me, pfft).
I'll update the PCB. Regarding the connection between the two halves, would it be better if we used a USB type C rather than the USB micro 3? When I started the project, finding moderately priced reliable USB Type-C cable was a challenge as they weren't that common. Has the situation changed where we can look at this connector for connecting the two halves?
Yeah, I'm not too sure about SATA to be honest, it's an interface for internal connections that don't see as frequent disconnects. I have had the connector fail on two drive docks, so personal experience hasn't been that great with them.
@majorkoos, do you have backlight LEDs? For some reason mine are flickering, don't have this issue on my SAMPad, which uses the identical electronics.
So, Logitech is introducing a keyboard with a customisable multi-function dial. Hmmm
Quick update, still need to debug the issues I was having, started as Scrum Master at my workplace, so have been busy with that, but will be getting to this, this week hopefully.We love updates. Thanks Moz for all you do. I'm waiting anxiously.
No updates yet, sorry. Super busy at work. Hopefully I can get back on this in January.
Anyone available to assist with the BOM on this?I think you could order them on taobao.
I ordered a few boards from PCBWAY but now that I am gathering components I have run into some roadblocks with items that are out of stock at mouser and .
1. CAP CER 1UF 10V 10% X7R 0805 CC0805KKX7R6BB105 - Out of stock for several weeks. The suggested replacements on digikey are 16V+ variations and I am not sure if that would be okay or not (sorry newb)
2. CAP CER 10UF 6.3V X5R 0805 CC0805KKX5R5BB106 - Basically the same as above.
26. IC DECODER/DEMUX 3‐8 LINE 16SOIC 74HC138D - The NXP one seems to be out of stock but there are a bunch of alternatives, I just didn't see one that matches exactly (does not specify 3-8 line and SOIC in description)
27. LED Driver IC 1 Output DC DC Buck 1A PAM2804AAB010 - No alternatives listed, not really sure what to look for.
Those are the major ones, I am also looking for specific WS2812B but most look like they come on a little board with pins instead of being on their own, the 0805 smd led is similar so I'd take any info on those but I can hunt them down easier than the above items.
Ill throw together some step by steps for the newbs once I get everything to hopefully make this a little more straight forward for the uninitiated. Thanks for any help!
Managed to find UK waiting for stock of those:
CC0805KKX7R6BB105-SMD Multilayer Ceramic Capacitor, 0805 [2012 Metric], 1 µF, 10 V, ± 10%, X7R, CC Series-http://uk.farnell.com/yageo-phycomp/cc0805kkx7r6bb105/cap-mlcc-x7r-1uf-10v-0805/dp/3352067RL#
Also found this in Stock:
AP8803WTG-7 - Led Driver, 1 Output, Buck (Step Down), 8V-30V in, 500kHz switch,1A out, TSOT-23-5- http://uk.farnell.com/diodes-inc/ap8803wtg-7/ic-led-driver-buck-1a-5tsot23/dp/1825359
For the rest, Later will go to my shop and ask if they have something more.
Would love to pay you for one of the PCBs
Have a look at the schematics, bare minimum section are,
- Microcontroller
- Crystal
- USB Circuit
MCU can be reset by shorting MCURST and +5V
Here is the temporary fix for RGB in case any one was interested:
Does anyone have a PCB for sale :)Would love to get one.
Moz this is awesome, especially the version with the thumbstick.
I currently have the parts printing. I will get the PCB fabbed from the github, everything fixed / fully working with that design? Any special considerations or things to bare in mind when ordering the PCB build?
p.s Sorry to necro but I'm fairly sure this project is still alive.
Phew, I'm finally done with rev 0.6, which is also the third time I've rerouted the whole PCB. I was able to retain the rotary encoder as I needed extra space above the top row because of the large USB 3.0 receptacle.
Will clean up the files and upload to GitHub this weekend. I also intend to place the order for 5 PCBs with PCBWay for the TS65 and SAMPad.
Once that testing is done, I'll move to building the TS65. Two major changes to the QMK configuration will be,
1. Scanning the matrix on the left side via the multiplexer. I'm going through the configuration for bpiphany's controller to see how it's done.
2. Communication over I2C for the right side.
Once these basics are done, I'll move to adding support for the rotary encoder and testing the trackpoint functionality.