Author Topic: Vision Division - Full Size / Split Linear Keyboard PCB (Read 14032 times)

IBNobody · « **on:** Tue, 26 July 2016, 23:49:09 »

Current WIP Image

Build Log

http://imgur.com/a/GJg7C

Codebase is located in the main QMK trunk.

The original message follows...

I spent the weekend laying out this PCB for a linear keyboard.

https://easyeda.com/IBNobody/Split_Keyboard-yEysK2Vdv

The idea was to have a Cherry MX keyboard PCB for cheap. I wanted to have the option for a split keyboard as well. I went with EasyEDA because they were super cheap. I can get 5 of these for about 30 USD total plus shipping. I built them around the Teensy++ because I wanted extra RAM and FLASH space. I was hitting the cap on my ATMEGA32U4s.

This keyboard has cut lines to allow me to have multiple configurations.

Here are the Keyboard Layouts I am targeting:

More

Split Linear Keyboard - Full Population
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/9abc556825646b4a6c779d1225da4f39

Split Linear Keyboard - Partial Population
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/760ea7c502bb1c4a0357d8e3005a7424

Full Size Linear Keyboard - Mega Population
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/83f784bb0ab3f5198172ee790d297a17

Full Size Linear Keyboard - Full Population
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/1032935210a778dbf2f9854b9244c165

Full Size Linear Keyboard - Partial Population
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/b9c772ee59df5af9cf1f28833b412e6f

For splits, the right half is flipped.

For non splits, the right half is flipped and potentially trimmed down. Then the expansion "connectors" are wired together with jumpers.

The boards feature a piezo element for sound, I2C for split communication, and discrete LEDs for indicators.

My next step is to cut my plate on the Waterjet that I have access to.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #1 on:** Wed, 27 July 2016, 02:05:22 »

Well that's an interesting PCB, don't think I've seen a DIY piezo - did you write the firmware too?

Looking forward to seeing your final creation(s)

Data · « **Reply #2 on:** Wed, 27 July 2016, 06:37:02 »

Looks cool. I like grid layouts. Have you considered optional 2u Backspace, Enter, and Shift keys? Also, optional 2u keys on the "numpad" sections?

IBNobody · « **Reply #3 on:** Wed, 27 July 2016, 08:04:10 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Wed, 27 July 2016, 02:05:22

Well that's an interesting PCB, don't think I've seen a DIY piezo - did you write the firmware too?

Actually, yeah. I was part of the collaboration to add audio to QMK. Any ATMEGA32U4 can drive a piezo safely due to the CMOS IO logic. Just hook up a "dumb" buzzer to pin PC6.

I currently have two boards with piezo elements, and I find it immensely useful. Not only does my keyboard play Ode to Joy when first plugged in, it also chirps at me when I toggle caps lock.

Quote from: Data on Wed, 27 July 2016, 06:37:02

Looks cool. I like grid layouts. Have you considered optional 2u Backspace, Enter, and Shift keys? Also, optional 2u keys on the "numpad" sections?

I had shied away from them initially because I didn't want a nightmare of finding 2U non-R4 keys, but I can add them. Backspace will be a little hairy, but I can get it. Good suggestion.

For 2U NumEnter and NumPlus, how would I orient the central switch? LED on the left or right?

These all use Cherry plate stabs, too. Will that be a problem?

Data · « **Reply #4 on:** Wed, 27 July 2016, 08:21:56 »

Quote from: IBNobody on Wed, 27 July 2016, 08:04:10

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Wed, 27 July 2016, 02:05:22
Well that's an interesting PCB, don't think I've seen a DIY piezo - did you write the firmware too?

Actually, yeah. I was part of the collaboration to add audio to QMK. Any ATMEGA32U4 can drive a piezo safely due to the CMOS IO logic. Just hook up a "dumb" buzzer to pin PC6.

I currently have two boards with piezo elements, and I find it immensely useful. Not only does my keyboard play Ode to Joy when first plugged in, it also chirps at me when I toggle caps lock.

Quote from: Data on Wed, 27 July 2016, 06:37:02
Looks cool. I like grid layouts. Have you considered optional 2u Backspace, Enter, and Shift keys? Also, optional 2u keys on the "numpad" sections?

I had shied away from them initially because I didn't want a nightmare of finding 2U non-R4 keys, but I can add them. Backspace will be a little hairy, but I can get it. Good suggestion.

For 2U NumEnter and NumPlus, how would I orient the central switch? LED on the left or right?

These all use Cherry plate stabs, too. Will that be a problem?

Plate stabs don't care. They just do what they're told.

Switch orientation can be either way. If you're doing LED normally in the UP position then I would do LED LEFT on the vertically-oriented keys. You can also mount the switch perpendicular to the stabilizers so that they're oriented the same direction as all the other switches -- this gives maximum compatibility with shine-thru key caps. But you may run into problems with overlapping holes in your PCB since you're supporting both 2u and 2x 1u switches in the same space.

IBNobody · « **Reply #5 on:** Wed, 27 July 2016, 10:57:26 »

Quote from: Data on Wed, 27 July 2016, 08:21:56

Plate stabs don't care. They just do what they're told.

Switch orientation can be either way. If you're doing LED normally in the UP position then I would do LED LEFT on the vertically-oriented keys. You can also mount the switch perpendicular to the stabilizers so that they're oriented the same direction as all the other switches -- this gives maximum compatibility with shine-thru key caps. But you may run into problems with overlapping holes in your PCB since you're supporting both 2u and 2x 1u switches in the same space.

I see what you mean...

I am going to have hole problems either way. If I do the LED LEFT option, I can use the LED RIGHT pattern on the keys in COL1. A LED RIGHT +/enter in COL1 would be on the right if the board was flipped.

Data · « **Reply #6 on:** Wed, 27 July 2016, 11:47:24 »

Quote from: IBNobody on Wed, 27 July 2016, 10:57:26

Quote from: Data on Wed, 27 July 2016, 08:21:56

Plate stabs don't care. They just do what they're told.

Switch orientation can be either way. If you're doing LED normally in the UP position then I would do LED LEFT on the vertically-oriented keys. You can also mount the switch perpendicular to the stabilizers so that they're oriented the same direction as all the other switches -- this gives maximum compatibility with shine-thru key caps. But you may run into problems with overlapping holes in your PCB since you're supporting both 2u and 2x 1u switches in the same space.

I see what you mean...

Show Image

I am going to have hole problems either way. If I do the LED LEFT option, I can use the LED RIGHT pattern on the keys in COL1. A LED RIGHT +/enter in COL1 would be on the right if the board was flipped.

Yeah you kinda don't want solder pads for the switch to overlap solder pads for the LEDs. I'm thinking that's probably going to lead to some bad times.

This problem is compounded by the fact that you're supporting switches mounted on both sides of the PCB much like the ErgoDox. If you didn't have 4 sets of switch pads per switch it would be a little easier to squeeze into your design. The 'Dox design accounted for this flaw by flipping the lower switch 180° so it mirrors the upper-most switch. That left room for the middle switch in the column to comfortably sit either left or right perpendicular to the key cap. But the 'Dox doesn't support LEDs in those positions and yours does...

It's complicated. I would maybe look at the Infinity ErgoDox PCB to see how they did it.

IBNobody · « **Reply #7 on:** Wed, 27 July 2016, 12:34:25 »

Quote from: Data on Wed, 27 July 2016, 11:47:24

Yeah you kinda don't want solder pads for the switch to overlap solder pads for the LEDs. I'm thinking that's probably going to lead to some bad times.

This problem is compounded by the fact that you're supporting switches mounted on both sides of the PCB much like the ErgoDox. If you didn't have 4 sets of switch pads per switch it would be a little easier to squeeze into your design. The 'Dox design accounted for this flaw by flipping the lower switch 180° so it mirrors the upper-most switch. That left room for the middle switch in the column to comfortably sit either left or right perpendicular to the key cap. But the 'Dox doesn't support LEDs in those positions and yours does...

It's complicated. I would maybe look at the Infinity ErgoDox PCB to see how they did it.

Here is what I decided to try. I'm going old school and will implement a solution similar to how I handled the I2C communication. I will create slots for the LED/Switch terminals and also add a few extra jumper holes or zero ohm resistors wired to the column, LED VCC, and LED GND. I will add jumpers/resistors as needed to configure the slots to the desired net.

The hardest part is creating slots. The EasyEDA tool appears to let you create slots by overlapping PTHs.

I would rather do that than do the ErgoFlip solution since it gives me a uniform LED position.

IBNobody · « **Reply #8 on:** Thu, 28 July 2016, 14:28:53 »

Here is my vertical solution using jumpers.

Data · « **Reply #9 on:** Thu, 28 July 2016, 16:27:16 »

I'm not great at following schematics but I think I see what you're doing there and it looks like an elegant solution.

OfTheWild · « **Reply #10 on:** Thu, 28 July 2016, 18:13:49 »

Ok so i'm still a little confused... you're saying this will be 2 pcbs that can be used as a split board, combined as a full expanded board, or physically cut with a saw along your indicated lines and still works as something smaller? and its dirt cheap?

IBNobody · « **Reply #11 on:** Thu, 28 July 2016, 19:13:00 »

Quote from: Data on Thu, 28 July 2016, 16:27:16

I'm not great at following schematics but I think I see what you're doing there and it looks like an elegant solution.

The schematics will give you a headache.

I couldn't come up with a schematic representation that made sense, and I get paid to make schematics that make sense! And if you think this is bad... The Enter Zero key will be even wilder.

What I will do, though, is add a silkscreen guide to the PCB itself that shows wire jumper configs. "Do this if you want a 2U."

Quote from: boostdemon on Thu, 28 July 2016, 18:13:49

Ok so i'm still a little confused... you're saying this will be 2 pcbs that can be used as a split board, combined as a full expanded board, or physically cut with a saw along your indicated lines and still works as something smaller? and its dirt cheap?

Symmetry is awesome, isn't it?

This all works because it needs a plate to give stability.

The Teensy++ mounting is tricky due to clearance and orientation issues. I have 5mm clearance, with 1.5mm eaten by the plate. That gives me 3.5mm between the plate and the PCB. The Teensy's USB port alone is 4mm tall. Thus, the Teensy needs to be mounted on the opposite side of the switches or it won't fit. This works for the left half (and the primary half of the full single-Teensy keyboard). But the right half has issues. The right split half will require the Teensy to be mounted upside down, dead bug style. I will mount headers on TOP of the Teensy, and the TEENSY USB connector will touch the PCB. The USB will be in roughly the same Z position, but it will be flipped upside down. The downside to this is that it blocks the reset button, but I added extra buttons to get around that.

I will eventually redo the PCB to add an AT90 AVR instead of the Teensy. The only thing stopping me now is that the cost of the components on a Teensy++ make putting a prebuilt Teensy++ on the board the cheaper option!

OfTheWild · « **Reply #12 on:** Thu, 28 July 2016, 20:26:50 »

ok. wow. yeah thats pretty cool.

So you're ideal intention is to mount the teensy between the pcb and the plate? What about just relocating the usb port to under the pcb and have pins pass through to the teensy? The rest of it should fit, right?

IBNobody · « **Reply #13 on:** Thu, 28 July 2016, 22:51:55 »

Quote from: boostdemon on Thu, 28 July 2016, 20:26:50

ok. wow. yeah thats pretty cool.

So you're ideal intention is to mount the teensy between the pcb and the plate? What about just relocating the usb port to under the pcb and have pins pass through to the teensy? The rest of it should fit, right?

I didn't want to have to depop the USB connector on the Teensy, or solder wires from the Teensy's USB pads. If there were through hole pads, I would do exactly what you suggested. Oh well.

IBNobody · « **Reply #14 on:** Fri, 29 July 2016, 12:07:02 »

I updated the opening post with a pic showing the near final design. I added the keys that Data requested.

Now the numpad can be on the right or left and supports 2U vertical +/Enter and 2U horizontal 0 keys.

Data · « **Reply #15 on:** Fri, 29 July 2016, 13:30:57 »

Like a boss.

If you had to mount the Teensy "slung-under" on one side to avoid issues with the plate clearance and still maintain the same pin-outs then you could design a hole in the PCB and the switch plate to accommodate the Teensy's reset switch. That might save you some additional programming and trace routing. Just a thought.

IBNobody · « **Reply #16 on:** Fri, 29 July 2016, 13:40:55 »

Quote from: Data on Fri, 29 July 2016, 13:30:57

Like a boss.

If you had to mount the Teensy "slung-under" on one side to avoid issues with the plate clearance and still maintain the same pin-outs then you could design a hole in the PCB and the switch plate to accommodate the Teensy's reset switch. That might save you some additional programming and trace routing. Just a thought.

I put in reset switches on both the top and bottom, in the same location. You cannot see it on that gerber photo, but it is there.

Now I will add some smart artwork for the jumpers and thicken the main VCC and GND traces.

Data · « **Reply #17 on:** Fri, 29 July 2016, 13:44:34 »

That new drawing is super sexy by the way.

IBNobody · « **Reply #18 on:** Sun, 31 July 2016, 23:09:04 »

Boards are ordered. They gave me a $5 off coupon. Total plus airmail shipping was ~$39. Not bad for 2 and a half keyboards!

Data · « **Reply #19 on:** Mon, 01 August 2016, 06:20:43 »

Yeah that's a killer price. Please post pics. If they're decent quality boards I might order from them soon.

IBNobody · « **Reply #20 on:** Sat, 06 August 2016, 20:03:34 »

I added GND and VCC copper pours to the layout now that I trust the EDA tool a little better. I didn't order with this one though.

Still waiting on the boards...

IBNobody · « **Reply #21 on:** Thu, 18 August 2016, 15:26:20 »

I received my PCBs today, and I was very happy with how they came out.

http://imgur.com/a/QuwFX

xondat · « **Reply #22 on:** Thu, 18 August 2016, 15:37:53 »

Quote from: IBNobody on Thu, 18 August 2016, 15:26:20

I received my PCBs today, and I was very happy with how they came out.

http://imgur.com/a/QuwFX

Those look really cool, can't wait to see a finished build out of this

)

IBNobody · « **Reply #23 on:** Thu, 18 August 2016, 22:54:08 »

Some findings...

1. The PCB on the left will have the top side facing up. Thus, it needs to have the Teensy 2.0++ underslung. The PCB on the right will have the top side facing down.

2. I forgot to add a second piezo buzzer on the opposite side of the original one. I corrected this on the layout.

3. The tooling holes for standoffs were way too big. (As in, what was I thinking too big.) I originally designed them for 250 mil standoffs (300mil diameter), but the ones I got were 177mil (200 mil diameter). I corrected this on the layout.

4. I should have silk-screened some of the jumpers on both sides.

5. I am a little worried that the Cherry switch footprint's tooling holes for PCB mounted switches are too small. If they are, I will correct the PCB.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #24 on:** Fri, 19 August 2016, 03:09:27 »

PCBs look great and the jumper label is nice and clear - good work! Shame about the bugs but sounds like they work which is the main thing.

Data · « **Reply #25 on:** Fri, 19 August 2016, 07:49:13 »

Quote from: IBNobody on Thu, 18 August 2016, 15:26:20

I received my PCBs today, and I was very happy with how they came out.

http://imgur.com/a/QuwFX

They did a great job with those PCBs.

IBNobody · « **Reply #26 on:** Fri, 19 August 2016, 09:10:20 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Fri, 19 August 2016, 03:09:27

PCBs look great and the jumper label is nice and clear - good work! Shame about the bugs but sounds like they work which is the main thing.

Yeah, no showstoppers yet. I just have self induced cosmetic issues. Worst case is that I will have to clip the gateron PCB mounts.

IBNobody · « **Reply #27 on:** Thu, 25 August 2016, 00:26:01 »

It works!

To celebrate, I have renamed the board "Vision / Division".

Codebase can be found here... Still a WIP and will be merged into QMK.

https://github.com/IBNobody/qmk_firmware/tree/vision_division_dev

Also, the audio works well.

I really like how the "expansion" columns work. I can connect up two PCBs (one with a teensy, one without) and they act as one large PCB.

Software wise, I am writing it with this in mind. I am trying to develop a system where you specify one KEYMAP macro, and the code adapts it to fit in a row/col matrix based on what setup you have defined for your PCBs. Thus, I could use the same KEYMAP for a left/right split keyboard or a full 104 keyboard without having to do a bunch of edits to my code.

Regarding the PCB files... I am constantly making little tweaks to the artwork as I do the build process. The biggest change I made was to expand the pad size for the diodes. They were too small for hand placement. While I could live with the old footprint, I like having a little bit of extra exposed pad to hit with the iron.

Data · « **Reply #28 on:** Thu, 25 August 2016, 06:44:20 »

Is it possible to order a set of boards from EasyEDA? Does the version on the site include your latest cosmetic fixes?

IBNobody · « **Reply #29 on:** Thu, 25 August 2016, 07:55:38 »

Quote from: Data on Thu, 25 August 2016, 06:44:20

Is it possible to order a set of boards from EasyEDA? Does the version on the site include your latest cosmetic fixes?

It is orderable, but if you plan on using Gaterons or Cherry PCB mounts, I would wait. While I have verified that Cherry plate mounts fit, I have not verified that Gaterons or Cherry PCBs fit.

Also keep in mind that the I2C header may change. I am currently planning on using this type of cable (with some pins swapped) along with a locking right angle header, but it is not as robust as I would like. I am open to suggestions. I know others have used 3.5mm headphone jacks, but I don't have 10mm to spare in the X direction to place one.

layornos · « **Reply #30 on:** Thu, 25 August 2016, 10:38:43 »

How about RJ11 or, if you have no space Micro USB?

Gesendet von meinem A0001 mit Tapatalk

IBNobody · « **Reply #31 on:** Thu, 25 August 2016, 11:05:53 »

Quote from: layornos on Thu, 25 August 2016, 10:38:43

How about RJ11 or, if you have no space Micro USB?

Gesendet von meinem A0001 mit Tapatalk

Hmmm...

The constraints I have are:

1. Must be 6mm tall or less to fit in my 12mm case.
2a. Must be narrow enough in the X direction to fit between the teensy and a switch or between two switches.
2b. Must be narrow enough in the Y direction to fit on the tongue without requiring more than 5mm extra bezel on the top plate. (For reference, the PCB file on EasyEDA has a 0mm bezel top plate surrounding the board, colored in grey. The current tongue sticks out 1.65mm-1.78mm beyond a 0mm bezel.)
3. Must not be confusing.
4. Must have cables available or easily built. (No USB Micro-A's, which are rumored to exist but I have never seen.)

While I like RJ* connectors, they violate the size requirements. And USB micro-B's might confuse people into plugging in a USB cable to a host PC. Not that I am trying to sell these to the general populace... I want to avoid calls from my wife asking why my keyboard isn't working right.

Any other suggestions on connector types?

IBNobody · « **Reply #32 on:** Thu, 25 August 2016, 14:48:58 »

I think I am going to scrap the jumper idea for the 2U vertical keys. I spent my lunch trying to strip wire and add the jumpers. While it was easy to do, I felt it slowed the build process down significantly. I was able to place 72 diodes in the time it took to make jumpers. I have space to add resistors. I will do this instead. (Plus, the 2U vertical wiring patterns are too small.)

I also need to add polarity info to the switch footprints for the LEDs. On one side they will be +/-, and on the other side they will be -/+.

I have backlighting working.

One thing I noticed... The hole sizes for the LEDs and Cherry switches are HUGE. There is only a slight annular ring. I will reduce the hole sizes. This will make them take less solder to fill. (On the bright side, my board is very easy to de-switch with a solder sucker.)

IBNobody · « **Reply #33 on:** Thu, 25 August 2016, 18:38:34 »

And....... We have our first problem.

Take a look at this Cherry MX datasheet. (This is what pulls up when you Google Cherry MX datasheet.)

http://cherryswitches.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Keymodule_MX_EN.pdf

This is what I was using to calculate hole sizes for footprints.

It calls out the PCB standoffs to be 1mm in diameter, the switch holes to be 1.5mm, and the LED holes to be 1.7mm.

However, the datasheet on Digikey shows that the PCB standoffs should be 1.7mm in diameter and the LED holes should be 1mm.

http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Cherry%20PDFs/MX%20Series.pdf

So... PCB mounts WILL NOT fit. But if you plate mount, it won't matter.

IBNobody · « **Reply #34 on:** Sat, 03 September 2016, 00:50:39 »

Building is going well. I am waiting on plates and switches still. I have joined two boards and verified my switch scheme.

I also created a spreadsheet to help me with QMK/TMK layouts since they are a pain to do on this monster of a board.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jSnt4iHeVmF_P8mvwC7ke3bwFeODJz2woejqeDRZtWI/edit?usp=sharing

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #35 on:** Sat, 03 September 2016, 03:23:49 »

Cherry got their own datasheet wrong?

Didn't realise the hole sizes were so close, an LED lead is way thinner than the mounting peg. But then it's not designed to be tight...

Glad to hear it's going well, firmware is not as good to comment on as pretty pics though

)

IBNobody · « **Reply #36 on:** Sat, 03 September 2016, 10:09:21 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Sat, 03 September 2016, 03:23:49

Cherry got their own datasheet wrong? Didn't realise the hole sizes were so close, an LED lead is way thinner than the mounting peg. But then it's not designed to be tight...

Glad to hear it's going well, firmware is not as good to comment on as pretty pics though )

Yeah, I'll have more pics when I get the plates in and start showing how the two boards fit together.

IBNobody · « **Reply #37 on:** Thu, 15 September 2016, 23:01:55 »

Still waiting for my plates and switches...

Meanwhile, I edited the PCB to add a new cutline to the left of the Teensy ++. This will let you have a 6-8 column numpadless design. You could even probably reuse the severed numpad portion.

IBNobody · « **Reply #38 on:** Sun, 18 September 2016, 00:06:35 »

Bad news... I ruined my plate...

http://imgur.com/a/RUJXr

Turns out that bending stainless steel is harder than bending aluminum...

I ordered another plate, but without any of the bends.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #39 on:** Sun, 18 September 2016, 03:48:26 »

There's a reason steel is used to make tools while aluminium is not - it's tough stuff! Sorry you found out the hard way

Any chance of cutting off the F row and finding a use for it?

IBNobody · « **Reply #40 on:** Mon, 19 September 2016, 11:19:28 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Sun, 18 September 2016, 03:48:26

There's a reason steel is used to make tools while aluminium is not - it's tough stuff! Sorry you found out the hard way

Any chance of cutting off the F row and finding a use for it?

Nah. I chalked it up to learning and moved on. I redesigned the plates to look like this...

climbalima · « **Reply #41 on:** Tue, 20 September 2016, 12:12:26 »

What does the firmware look like for this? Im trying to make a modular board with more than 2 parts and could use some help.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

IBNobody · « **Reply #42 on:** Tue, 20 September 2016, 13:00:12 »

Quote from: climbalima on Tue, 20 September 2016, 12:12:26

What does the firmware look like for this? Im trying to make a modular board with more than 2 parts and could use some help.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I haven't started on that part yet. The goal first is to get the keymaps working for various configurations first. Meaning, I want to specify a keymap that works for both the single keyboard and a split keyboard without having to redo most of my keymaps.

Once that is done, I will work on the I2C communication. I might leverage some things from Lets Split (like the ISR), but I am not sure yet.

IBNobody · « **Reply #43 on:** Fri, 23 September 2016, 14:40:30 »

Quote from: climbalima on Tue, 20 September 2016, 12:12:26

What does the firmware look like for this? Im trying to make a modular board with more than 2 parts and could use some help.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

So, I dug into Let's Split a little more. OLKB Jack wrote some of the firmware for it. I plan on reusing the I2C portion.

IBNobody · « **Reply #44 on:** Tue, 18 October 2016, 14:19:12 »

I updated the post with a picture of what it looks like now. It works. It is completely functional. I am typing on it right now.

I also updated the PCB to the latest rev. Stitching two boards together was a great way to make this behemoth cheaper.

I will post a build log soon.

Data · « **Reply #45 on:** Thu, 20 October 2016, 08:50:09 »

Nice.

Fictiouz · « **Reply #46 on:** Thu, 20 October 2016, 08:57:35 »

This is sweet. If you're using 2U caps the stabs have to be plate mount eh?

IBNobody · « **Reply #47 on:** Thu, 20 October 2016, 13:35:34 »

Quote from: Fictiouz on Thu, 20 October 2016, 08:57:35

This is sweet. If you're using 2U caps the stabs have to be plate mount eh?

Yes, but from what I've seen, 2U can get away without stabs at all.


120/100g linear Zealio R1 GMK Hyperfuse 'Split everything' perfection	MX Clear SA Hack'd by Geeks EasyAVR mod

News:

Author Topic: Vision Division - Full Size / Split Linear Keyboard PCB (Read 14032 times)