Approved :thumb:Thank you so much! I'm going to fix the images right now :thumb:
(Image attachments are pretty broken right now site-wide, please upload pics to an external image hosting service and update the OP)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bK2eWly.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/f775YAg.jpg)
Hi mustcodeDoh! You're right, I completely forgot about extra plates. I'm going to fix it soon, thank you for pointing it out. The board should allow for both PCB-mount and plate-mount switches :thumb:
Quick Q- while there are extra pcb and matrices available to purchase, I can see no additional plates offered... does this assume that the switches need to be pcb mounted/5pin?
Thank you
Would it be possible to get a frosted acrylic top?Yes, all the CAD files for this project is available for you, so you can go to your preferred laser-cutting service and order the top cover, back cover, or plates in any material that's available to you. Laser cutting is not expensive, so you won't even need to spend that much.
How thick is the case, and how much does it weight? I'm tempted, but at that price point and with all the disclaimers about possible cosmetic issues I'm also super hesitant. I love the look, but I didn't see an example of the top case with side screws with the prototype?The case is pretty think, a little bit over 3.5cm at the tallest part and around 2cm at the front before it chamfered down to about 1cm.
Also, is the grey color in the renderings closer to what we could expect from the grey anodizing? I'm assuming the prototype was not anodized
the top cover with side-screws is quite expensive to make so I decided to only use the laser-cut top for the prototype. :)
Yes, you'll be getting the top cover with side-screws as standard. These side-screws top are CNCed, so they are expensive to make just one, so I wanted to include as standard, because it'll be expensive to do it afterwards with low volume. On the other hand, the laser-cut top like the prototype are cheap to make and anyone can make their own whenever they want. The reason I included the support for the laser-cut top are so that those who want to mod the board with different layouts can make their own top cover. Also, the top cover wasn't critical to the prototype so I decided to save some funds by going with just laser-cut top cover.the top cover with side-screws is quite expensive to make so I decided to only use the laser-cut top for the prototype. :)
So is that the version we'll be getting in the Group Buy? I must admit I was always confused by how many options the board presented :p
That definitely clears it up for me. Thank you!Yes, you'll be getting the top cover with side-screws as standard. These side-screws top are CNCed, so they are expensive to make just one, so I wanted to include as standard, because it'll be expensive to do it afterwards with low volume. On the other hand, the laser-cut top like the prototype are cheap to make and anyone can make their own whenever they want. The reason I included the support for the laser-cut top are so that those who want to mod the board with different layouts can make their own top cover. Also, the top cover wasn't critical to the prototype so I decided to save some funds by going with just laser-cut top cover.the top cover with side-screws is quite expensive to make so I decided to only use the laser-cut top for the prototype. :)
So is that the version we'll be getting in the Group Buy? I must admit I was always confused by how many options the board presented :p
I hope this clears up some of the confusions, sorry for the confusing detail ("-_-)
Are there hotswap sockets on the PCB? I'm assuming not because I didn't see it mentioned, but it seems like a natural fit for a keyboard that's aimed at moddersI mean, you could mod it yourself and add sockets.
I know holtites are an option but have heard pretty negative things about them and their longevity in comparison to Kailh's sockets
Are there hotswap sockets on the PCB? I'm assuming not because I didn't see it mentioned, but it seems like a natural fit for a keyboard that's aimed at moddersI mean, you could mod it yourself and add sockets.
I know holtites are an option but have heard pretty negative things about them and their longevity in comparison to Kailh's sockets
Sent from my SM-J415G using Tapatalk
No worries, man. Mill max sockets are way better and sturdier than Kailh sockets. They have a longer lifetime and will last a bunch more (not sure about the amount of insertion and pull outs).Are there hotswap sockets on the PCB? I'm assuming not because I didn't see it mentioned, but it seems like a natural fit for a keyboard that's aimed at moddersI mean, you could mod it yourself and add sockets.
I know holtites are an option but have heard pretty negative things about them and their longevity in comparison to Kailh's sockets
Sent from my SM-J415G using Tapatalk
Ahh I see, I could just buy Kailh sockets and solder them onto the PCB? Please forgive my ignorance. I know holtites can be added to many PCBs (all PCBs? I know it's based on hole size), and I've heard of Mill Max sockets - but I was under the impression that Kailh sockets had to be added at design time.
Are there hotswap sockets on the PCB? I'm assuming not because I didn't see it mentioned, but it seems like a natural fit for a keyboard that's aimed at moddersI mean, you could mod it yourself and add sockets.
I know holtites are an option but have heard pretty negative things about them and their longevity in comparison to Kailh's sockets
Sent from my SM-J415G using Tapatalk
Ahh I see, I could just buy Kailh sockets and solder them onto the PCB? Please forgive my ignorance. I know holtites can be added to many PCBs (all PCBs? I know it's based on hole size), and I've heard of Mill Max sockets - but I was under the impression that Kailh sockets had to be added at design time.
No worries, man. Mill max sockets are way better and sturdier than Kailh sockets. They have a longer lifetime and will last a bunch more (not sure about the amount of insertion and pull outs).
Yes, Kailh sockets must be designed into the PCB, so it is not possible to add these after the fact. Millmax sockets are much superior to holtites, but once you solder them in, they are somewhat comparable to Kailh sockets.
I've never tried mill max sockets, but learned a lot about them through people that recommended them to others. Just passing my limited knowledge about them haha.No worries, man. Mill max sockets are way better and sturdier than Kailh sockets. They have a longer lifetime and will last a bunch more (not sure about the amount of insertion and pull outs).
Thank you very much for the information, I didn't know Mill Max were better than Kailh - clearly I have no experience with either
That's awesome news for me. Assuming I can just solder Mill Max sockets in there, I am so in. I love the design and aesthetic of this case. My only wish is that it could be the same color as the render. In the back of my mind I was pondering if it would be possible to re-anodize it in the future but I have done zero research into whether that's even possible or how insanely expensive it might be.
Thanks very much for the information. I need to do some more research. Can you expand on "somewhat comparable"? I'm very interested to hear people's opinions and experience.
I've wondered if it might be possible to have a custom PCB manufactured since we'd have access to the CAD files so that I could put in some contactless switches or something. But again, I'm not sure how expensive (or even possible) that would be. I know everything in the keyboard world is much cheaper in bulk haha
But making your own PCB is not as expensive or difficult as you may think, even at low quantities. You can start by check out ai03's PCB design guide here: https://wiki.ai03.me/, it's very well done. I've used JLCPCB to order my own PCBs before, min order is 5 PCB, which for a near full size layout cost me only around $35 CAD.
PM if you'd like any more info, don't want to derail this GB thread too much ;D
Hi, I'm sorry I'm a bit late to the conversation. Yea, I wanted the PCB to support Alps, because that'll be something that's difficult to add afterwards. While Kliah sockets are nice, but I decided to have Alps and use MillMax or holtites for hotswap rather than no Alps and use Kliah sockets. I hope that's the right decisions 😉
Hmm, may be Yiancar can answer this better than me since he designed the PCB, but I've not tried MillMax, however, I've used Holtites with the prototype and it fits pretty well. A little on the loose side, so a touch of solder will help if you find some misbehave switches.Hi, I'm sorry I'm a bit late to the conversation. Yea, I wanted the PCB to support Alps, because that'll be something that's difficult to add afterwards. While Kliah sockets are nice, but I decided to have Alps and use MillMax or holtites for hotswap rather than no Alps and use Kliah sockets. I hope that's the right decisions 😉
I think that is probably the right decision - it maximizes the number of switches that are possible to use in the stock PCB. I doubt I'll personally ever use Alps but I appreciate having the option to do so in the future. Do you know which size Mill Max socket is more compatible with this board?
Ok, I just remembered I had some MillMax left over, so I tried and it fits very well. I don't remember the size of it, but these were MillMax that I got from one of the MillMax GB a while ago, so I imagine it's the "usual size" that most custom PCBs usedHi, I'm sorry I'm a bit late to the conversation. Yea, I wanted the PCB to support Alps, because that'll be something that's difficult to add afterwards. While Kliah sockets are nice, but I decided to have Alps and use MillMax or holtites for hotswap rather than no Alps and use Kliah sockets. I hope that's the right decisions 😉
I think that is probably the right decision - it maximizes the number of switches that are possible to use in the stock PCB. I doubt I'll personally ever use Alps but I appreciate having the option to do so in the future. Do you know which size Mill Max socket is more compatible with this board?
Ok, I just remembered I had some MillMax left over, so I tried and it fits very well. I don't remember the size of it, but these were MillMax that I got from one of the MillMax GB a while ago, so I imagine it's the "usual size" that most custom PCBs used
Yes, the back cover will come like the prototype, but in aluminum, but if you worry that you will damage the controller by pulling too hard on the cable, you can tie a couple of zip tie on the cable just before it exits the case to act like a stopper, and that should stop the cable from going too far out and prevent any force going all the way to the controller. Or you can get a short usb-c male to female cable and mount the female on the back cover if you want a more traditional usb port :)Ok, I just remembered I had some MillMax left over, so I tried and it fits very well. I don't remember the size of it, but these were MillMax that I got from one of the MillMax GB a while ago, so I imagine it's the "usual size" that most custom PCBs used
Awesome, well looks like it's time for me to fill out the GB form :D Now to try to contain my excitement during the wait for production
One more question for now, then I'll give it a rest for a while. Does the laser cut back plate come with a hole for the USB cable as pictured in the renderings?
I also noticed that, because of the way the cable plugs into the controller, if you were to accidentally pull on the cable (because you're a klutzy dumbass like me) there might be potential to damage the controller or PCB. I wonder if there is any technique or rig I could use on the interior to transfer the point of stress onto the cable and away from the controller.
Yes, the back cover will come like the prototype, but in aluminum, but if you worry that you will damage the controller by pulling too hard on the cable, you can tie a couple of zip tie on the cable just before it exits the case to act like a stopper, and that should stop the cable from going too far out and prevent any force going all the way to the controller. Or you can get a short usb-c male to female cable and mount the female on the back cover if you want a more traditional usb port :)
Yes, the back cover will come like the prototype, but in aluminum, but if you worry that you will damage the controller by pulling too hard on the cable, you can tie a couple of zip tie on the cable just before it exits the case to act like a stopper, and that should stop the cable from going too far out and prevent any force going all the way to the controller. Or you can get a short usb-c male to female cable and mount the female on the back cover if you want a more traditional usb port :)
I think ultimately I'd like to mount some sort of connector on the back cover, but probably something more fun and exotic than USB. My concern is getting it mounted in a way that looks clean and professional. The zip tie method sounds pretty brilliant in the short term.
Yes, the back cover will come like the prototype, but in aluminum, but if you worry that you will damage the controller by pulling too hard on the cable, you can tie a couple of zip tie on the cable just before it exits the case to act like a stopper, and that should stop the cable from going too far out and prevent any force going all the way to the controller. Or you can get a short usb-c male to female cable and mount the female on the back cover if you want a more traditional usb port :)
I think ultimately I'd like to mount some sort of connector on the back cover, but probably something more fun and exotic than USB. My concern is getting it mounted in a way that looks clean and professional. The zip tie method sounds pretty brilliant in the short term.
It could be a lot of fun to make all sorts of back plates for this board, I think that's the fun of it. Even if they don't really look polished, it's on the part of the board that you don't usually see.
Top Clack really seemed to love the board! The one thing I gotta disagree about - I definitely intend for this to be my daily driver haha.Haha, agreed, I'm definitely planning to daily drive the hell out of mine. In fact, I've been daily driving the prototype for a while now :thumb:
Since MOQ was met, are we getting invoices soon?Yes, I'm planning to start invoicing this week. The invoice will due next month at the end of the GB :thumb:
I'm really glad this GB is happening.
Any chance to see an all black render with some WoB SA caps?I am planning to do an all black render, since a few people have asked about that. Give me a couple of days to sort out the render. I'll also look into SA caps to see if I can find the 3d models for them :thumb:
Any chance to see an all black render with some WoB SA caps?I am planning to do an all black render, since a few people have asked about that. Give me a couple of days to sort out the render. I'll also look into SA caps to see if I can find the 3d models for them :thumb:
I got invoice from you, but i cant pay for it right now. When is it due?I can pay it like 5/21~25.The invoice is due at the end of GB on the 2nd of June, so no hurry, and yes the CNDed top will include the pen rail as seen in the render. ;)
Annnd, I can see pen rail?tray?slot? whatever, some kind of rail above the F-row in the render, but I cant see that in prototype,
top cover is CNCed so I think it will be there, but I just wanna make it sure. Are they still there?
Oh man, that black has me tempted now. How close are you to the cut off?We're about halfway till I start thinking about making a cut-off, 25-ish orders last I checked ;D
I am having a little bit of a hard time visualizing the top cover. Will the top cover be flush with the sides or will there be some overhang? In the prototype it looks like a top cover wouldn't be flush with anything once you put it over.It should be flushed, no over hangs like the renders :thumb:
I've already started looking in to what sorts of wacky connectors I could use with the controller. Someone suggested these Weipu waterproof connectors (http://m.weipu-connector.com/connector-ip-rating/ip67-circular-connector/sa10-ip67-waterproof-connector.html) with a chassis mount but I'm not sold on the aesthetic. Anyone else have some interesting ideas?I'm definitely planning on using a Lemo or a Neutrik on mine in the future, but these Weipu looks interesting!
I think i can fit a raspberry-pi in it and make it a computerYes, last I checked, a raspberry pi zero fits :thumb:
Nice board :thumb:
I am sold (hit submit form) ^-^I think i can fit a raspberry-pi in it and make it a computerYes, last I checked, a raspberry pi zero fits :thumb:
Nice board :thumb:
Made an account just to let you know I joined the GB and am happy to support this project.Thank you! I really appreciate it. :D
woo! signed up!
Hey Mustcode, quick question about the git hub files. I'm wanting to get in on Jae's carbon fiber GB and wanted to get the top cover, back piece where the cable comes out, and the plate done in carbon fiber. Do i download the pdf or the dxf files? I have never done this before so any help is appreciated. Thanks.Hi! .dxf are the 2D cad files for laser cutting, so yes, you want to modify the .dxf files to make your own covers. The pdf are just for reference in case the machine shop asked for it :thumb:
Hey Mustcode, quick question about the git hub files. I'm wanting to get in on Jae's carbon fiber GB and wanted to get the top cover, back piece where the cable comes out, and the plate done in carbon fiber. Do i download the pdf or the dxf files? I have never done this before so any help is appreciated. Thanks.Hi! .dxf are the 2D cad files for laser cutting, so yes, you want to modify the .dxf files to make your own covers. The pdf are just for reference in case the machine shop asked for it :thumb:
Thanks a lot for these prompt updates mustcode.Oh, I thought I set it to never expire, sorry about that, must be bugs when I use mobile and desktop discord at the same time.
The discord invite has expired for me, would it be possible to have this resent?
Yup, a bit too late now. Wait for a used one or round 2 :thumb:
Sorry, there won't be any extras. The only extras are the 2 (one of each color) that I ordered for myself, which I'm willing to give up in case something went wrong. Sorry, I'm really pushing the price down, so I couldn't afford too many extras. :-[Yup, a bit too late now. Wait for a used one or round 2 :thumb:
No extras? I had to prioritize things when this ran and wasn't able to get one.
My only regret is not buying more pcb's to make different buildsI ordered a few extra pcbs in case of failures, so I will update with what I got left after everything is shipped :thumb:
I'm hoping that if this goes well, that you might consider a round 2 in the future. Of course everything is up to you.Thanks, I hope there'll be a round two as well :thumb:
The factory is already packing up the cases, they are quick!
So, I just paid the remaining balance and the cases should be on their way to me soon!
Big update!
The shipment has arrived! I finally have the production units in my hands :D
I've started sending out invoices for the shipping cost. I've only invoiced about 1/3 of all participants, so don't be alarmed if you haven't received it yet.
And since I can't carry 30+ boxes to the post office by myself, my plan is to visit the post office a couple of times a week starting this Saturday and send out as many units as I can each visit.
I'm sorry I can't do this fast enough as I can only do this after I got off work and on weekends, but I'll keep you guys updated on the progress as much as I can :)
any update?Hey! Sorry that I haven't been updating this thread. I'm still in the process of shipping all the orders.
Ouch! Can I see the damage? I only have one silver left on me with a minor defect on it. My black one was already sent out as replacement for a similar issue. But, I'll see what I can do! :)
Wow, that box went through hell! Alright, no worries, I'll send you a pm and we'll figure something out :thumb:
Already sent a pm to you :)Wow, that box went through hell! Alright, no worries, I'll send you a pm and we'll figure something out :thumb:
Oh! god! thank you so much!
I wait for you :thumb: >:D