Pro Micro USB improvement

[hvontres]

Having ripped the micro usb connector off of two pro micros (one less than an hour after replacing the first one) I decided to attempt a mechanical fix of sorts.
I put some 5-minute epoxy behind the connector and also put a dab under the front back to the edge of the pcb. Here's some pictures:

Epoxy on front of connector

Epoxy behind connector

I am hoping that the two glue joints will give enough mechanical attachement to prevent the poor smd pads from getting ripped off the board.

[smollchungus]

Have encountered this issue several times as well, started just using elite-c controllers, which have a much more robust usb-c port. Nice fix though (:

[hvontres]

I'll probably order usb c versions going forward, but this is my last one and I really want to work on the board

[smollchungus]

I'll probably order usb c versions going forward, but this is my last one and I really want to work on the board

Yeah those work nicely as well! Be carefull with the dimensions when designing cases for those usb-c pro micros, they tend to be slightly longer than the original ones

[hvontres]

The same trick should work on RPI picos as well.

[jamster]

Have encountered this issue several times as well, started just using elite-c controllers, which have a much more robust usb-c port. Nice fix though (:

Any idea how to get the Elite-C recognised by the Arduino IDE? I tried it the other day and no device is recognised via any COM ports.

[Leslieann]

The best fix for micro B is to eliminate the thing that breaks them, stress.

Lookup magnetic USB cables (several of us here use Netdot gen 10), haven't had any problems since. Bonus, it de-clutters your desk as you don't need 3 different cables for 3 different devices just one cable and three tips (type C, Micro B, Lightning). I hate sounding like an advertisement for these things, but they really are awesome.

[smollchungus]

Have encountered this issue several times as well, started just using elite-c controllers, which have a much more robust usb-c port. Nice fix though (:

Any idea how to get the Elite-C recognised by the Arduino IDE? I tried it the other day and no device is recognised via any COM ports.

To the best of my knowledge, you would have to flash the caterina bootloader(arduinos bootloader), as the elite-c comes with the atmel-dfu by default

[jamster]

Have encountered this issue several times as well, started just using elite-c controllers, which have a much more robust usb-c port. Nice fix though (:

Any idea how to get the Elite-C recognised by the Arduino IDE? I tried it the other day and no device is recognised via any COM ports.

To the best of my knowledge, you would have to flash the caterina bootloader(arduinos bootloader), as the elite-c comes with the atmel-dfu by default

Ah, thanks. So a bit more fiddling around than using something like an Arduino Leonardo then (which is what I ended up with, just happen to have a couple of unused Elite-Cs sitting around).

[Maledicted]

Have encountered this issue several times as well, started just using elite-c controllers, which have a much more robust usb-c port. Nice fix though (:

USB type c is trash as well, although certainly stronger than micro USB. Chromebooks powered by it continue to drop like flies at work. I wouldn't even bother prioritizing one over the other myself unless you need the specific interfacing and/or charging characteristics of type c.

I have always globbed high temperature hot glue on any tiny USB connectors on devices I have apart (besides mini USB, never been able to break one of those). It is rigid enough to prevent failure, but can be reheated to reshape easily (even with the tip of a soldering iron) and sets quickly. It can also be carefully cut and peeled off of just about any non porous surface without damaging it, especially with a little isopropyl alcohol to seep between it and the bonded surface. Project Farm (a Youtube channel) did some pretty thorough testing and found Stanley's dual melt sticks to be the most robust and after having switched to them, they're certainly the best I have ever used personally.

The only down side is that if whatever is reinforced with the stuff is sitting in a hot car for a few hours, the glue might get a little soft.

The best fix for micro B is to eliminate the thing that breaks them, stress.

Lookup magnetic USB cables (several of us here use Netdot gen 10), haven't had any problems since. Bonus, it de-clutters your desk as you don't need 3 different cables for 3 different devices just one cable and three tips (type C, Micro B, Lightning). I hate sounding like an advertisement for these things, but they really are awesome.

These really are great. I just wish they had just a bit stronger magnetic field. Usually not a problem used static on a desk, but they just flop off when using a controller pretty easily. I imagine any stronger of a field and the flimsy plastic parts of the adapter might start snapping though. I still like them even for controllers much more than the alternative.

[vvp]

Never buy a product with surface mount connectors.
That is the main problem here.
Even micro usb receptacle is not that bad if it is through hole.

[Findecanor]

The best fix for micro B is to eliminate the thing that breaks them, stress.

If you're designing your own keyboard for 3D-printing, another way to avoid stress on the connector would be to design that the cable goes in a cable channel with a tab that holds it in place.

[Leslieann]

The best fix for micro B is to eliminate the thing that breaks them, stress.

If you're designing your own keyboard for 3D-printing, another way to avoid stress on the connector would be to design that the cable goes in a cable channel with a tab that holds it in place.

True, but that makes it harder to design and change the cable.

Also most people designing their own boards are using Pro-Micros which adds thickness so they tend to be right at the back, it's just not as practical as leaving the port exposed.