Some answers straight from memory...
LED support:
I put a couple of spots for transistors and have extra pin-outs for LED circuits. I also placed a grounded resistor and LED pads at every location. HOWEVER, I only ran power to WASD, NUM and CAPS, if I recall correctly. WASD does indeed have seven spots because if you use the GH36 as a game pad as I do, WASD is one position away from where it is flipped over in "faux-Ergodox" mode. For mine, I just soldered in LEDs for the WASD keys I actually used.
Without too much trouble you could (and I believe DorkVader did) run power to ALL of the LEDs, and you would have a fully lit board. I don't use backlighting, so I didn't take trace space in the first version for full backlighting.
Cable management:
As things stand, a single GH36 is designed to have a USB cable exit from the right side of the board, as shown in this picture:
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GH36 Proto in Gamepad mode. If you are running in dual mode, the Teensy is in the right-hand GH36, with the USB cable still exiting from the right. The inter-connect cable runs between the two halves, between the two inner sides, as shown in THIS picture:
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GH36 Proto in Split-Keyboard mode. Hmmm. That doesn't quite answer B's question. To allow enough room BETWEEN the keyboard halves, I replaced the 18" cables shown in the picture for a set of 36" cables. That enabled the very large man using the dual GH36 to comfortably place a laptop and paperwork between the two GH36 boards.
Also, the case I had 3D printed has cable exits on both sides so it can be used in either situation.
Alternatively,
Glod used TWO Teensies, one per GH36 PCB and TWO USB cables, as shown in his post here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=61306.msg1495767#msg1495767Technically, with two Teensies, you could run up to FOUR GH36 boards and up to 144 individual switches.
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I hope I covered the current questions. Please note that this still seems like a niche keyboard to me. Thus,
there is no guarantee that V2.0 will ever see the light of day. I knew I could fix the problems found in the Protoype boards without great effort, and so I have done just that.
The BETA might be the final form for this PCB.As before, if people actually build keyboards from
these PCBs, I will be inspired to make more.
And now, I will go back to my actual current project, my F-122 conversion.
Please continue to post interest messages here. If it seems like it might be a go, I'll run a flash group buy.
TTFN,
- Ron | samwisekoi
p.s. I got most of the above information from re-reading this thread. I suggest the same to anyone interested in learning answers to detailed questions that were asked and answered in the past.