Introducing the GH36 Programmable Matrix Keypad

[berserkfan]

Um, I do like to be specific in understanding what I’m getting into.
1)   What is ‘limited LED support’? Does that mean less than all 36 keys?
2)   Side exit cables – does that mean anyone using these as a pair will have to connect them from right side to right side (as in your casing picture?)
3)   Does the casing only support that kind of right-exit cable orientation? I have gotten used to having some reading or miscellaneous material between the two halves of my boards, so having a cable exit at that odd angle will interfere.

I’ll still support, but will buy less in view of the fact that future versions will be better. I’ll buy a pair of v1 Updated and 1 pair of v2 beta and help you test the v2 beta.

[samwisekoi]

Some answers straight from memory...

LED support:

I put a couple of spots for transistors and have extra pin-outs for LED circuits.  I also placed a grounded resistor and LED pads at every location.  HOWEVER, I only ran power to WASD, NUM and CAPS, if I recall correctly.  WASD does indeed have seven spots because if you use the GH36 as a game pad as I do, WASD is one position away from where it is flipped over in "faux-Ergodox" mode.  For mine, I just soldered in LEDs for the WASD keys I actually used.

Without too much trouble you could (and I believe DorkVader did) run power to ALL of the LEDs, and you would have a fully lit board.  I don't use backlighting, so I didn't take trace space in the first version for full backlighting.

Cable management:

As things stand, a single GH36 is designed to have a USB cable exit from the right side of the board, as shown in this picture:

More

GH36 Proto in Gamepad mode.

If you are running in dual mode, the Teensy is in the right-hand GH36, with the USB cable still exiting from the right.  The inter-connect cable runs between the two halves, between the two inner sides, as shown in THIS picture:

More

GH36 Proto in Split-Keyboard mode.

Hmmm.  That doesn't quite answer B's question.  To allow enough room BETWEEN the keyboard halves, I replaced the 18" cables shown in the picture for a set of 36" cables.  That enabled the very large man using the dual GH36 to comfortably place a laptop and paperwork between the two GH36 boards.

Also, the case I had 3D printed has cable exits on both sides so it can be used in either situation.

Alternatively, Glod used TWO Teensies, one per GH36 PCB and TWO USB cables, as shown in his post here:  https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=61306.msg1495767#msg1495767

Technically, with two Teensies, you could run up to FOUR GH36 boards and up to 144 individual switches.

---

I hope I covered the current questions.  Please note that this still seems like a niche keyboard to me.  Thus, there is no guarantee that V2.0 will ever see the light of day.  I knew I could fix the problems found in the Protoype boards without great effort, and so I have done just that.  The BETA might be the final form for this PCB.

As before, if people actually build keyboards from these PCBs, I will be inspired to make more.

And now, I will go back to my actual current project, my F-122 conversion.

Please continue to post interest messages here.  If it seems like it might be a go, I'll run a flash group buy.

TTFN,

 - Ron | samwisekoi

p.s.  I got most of the above information from re-reading this thread.  I suggest the same to anyone interested in learning answers to detailed questions that were asked and answered in the past.

[njbair]

Just confirming my earlier post that I'm in for a pair.

[user 18]

Just a heads up for anyone thinking of wiring up LEDs to the full board:

R29 doesn't have a trace connecting it to the switch. This affects the 1u at (5,5) and the 2u at (5, 5.5). It's not an easy trace to run, and I don't see an immediately-apparent way to do so, but it should be easy to fix up with some wire wrap or the like.

[user 18]

Just a heads up for anyone thinking of wiring up LEDs to the full board:

R29 doesn't have a trace connecting it to the switch. This affects the 1u at (5,5) and the 2u at (5, 5.5). It's not an easy trace to run, and I don't see an immediately-apparent way to do so, but it should be easy to fix up with some wire wrap or the like.

And lo, v.150506a5 has been born.

 - Ron | samwisekoi

Now we have two resistors running to that switch (which should be using R23 from the looks of it.) R29 should run to the switch to its right with the PCB in that orientation.

[samwisekoi]

Just a heads up for anyone thinking of wiring up LEDs to the full board:

R29 doesn't have a trace connecting it to the switch. This affects the 1u at (5,5) and the 2u at (5, 5.5). It's not an easy trace to run, and I don't see an immediately-apparent way to do so, but it should be easy to fix up with some wire wrap or the like.

And lo, v.150506a5 has been born.

 - Ron | samwisekoi

Now we have two resistors running to that switch (which should be using R23 from the looks of it.) R29 should run to the switch to its right with the PCB in that orientation.

OK, I got 15 minutes to actually concentrate.  There were TWO switch positions that should have been connected to that resistor, sw29 and sw29/30.  LED pin 1 on both of those switches has now been correctly connected to R29.

Thanks for the catch(es)!

 - Ron | samwisekoi

[berserkfan]

I’ll back your 2.0 beta over the 1v modified. There is no shortage of geeks who want gamepads but we need all LEDs to be possible because gamer desire for custom layouts is unpredictable. Most gamers aren’t going to want to run a trace from R29 to whatever and add transistor to location Z to make it usable. They just want some simple “solder everything in and load the firmware” instructions.

The 3D printed casing design needs to account for the possible use of multiple cables. I didn’t see any holes in the picture of Ron’s case for a second cable, but the Glod pictures show a total of 2 cables and 4 connecting areas.

As for whether people build keyboards, I suspect this is a marketing problem. There is no shortage of geeks who are doing Planck and Typematrix and other custom matrix boards. We only need one or two people to build the GH36 into a usable and presentable keyboard, and post a log, and there will be geeks interested. Speaking of which, how much did the casing cost to print at Shapeways? Can I choose the colour or the material? (Am perpetually concerned that the 3D printing plastic is poor quality.)

I will definitely build and use the GH36 as a pair. Whether it is presentable or not is a different matter, since I greatly prize usability over aesthetics unlike the average geek. Since I have limited capabilities I was originally going to use the PCBs with hot glue, spacers, plywood. If they work well, I don’t care anymore. (At worst I will not post pictures if they are really very ugly.)

[samwisekoi]

GH36 BETA UPDATE - Rev 1.1

Ok, you asked for it, you got it.  For Mother's Day, I give you the GH36 Rev 1.1 BETA with full backlighting!


GH36 Rev 1.1 BETA Backlighting Traces.

Also fixed the missing LED ground on R2.  And made some other simplifications and fixes.

I have not gone through circuit checking or updated the cross-connect, but I will.  This should make Rev 1.1 satisfy all known needs.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[njbair]

GH36 BETA UPDATE - Rev 1.1

Ok, you asked for it, you got it.  For Mother's Day, I give you the GH36 Rev 1.1 BETA with full backlighting!

Show Image

GH36 Rev 1.1 BETA Backlighting Traces.

Also fixed the missing LED ground on R2.  And made some other simplifications and fixes.

I have not gone through circuit checking or updated the cross-connect, but I will.  This should make Rev 1.1 satisfy all known needs.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

Awesome news!

So what's "beta" about this? Just the backlights? I guess I'm asking because I'd like to be relatively sure I'll have at least a working pair of keypads, even if backlighting is borked.

[user 18]

Excellent!

This is a single LED circuit, driven from one pin, correct?

[samwisekoi]

Excellent!

This is a single LED circuit, driven from one pin, correct?

Correct.  I have extra pins I could use, but I didn't see the point.  Top row plus body?  Left column plus body?  Top and left plus body?  I will make the LED pins available for the hobbyists, but for most people it will be one circuit.

Also, the LED circuit will require one transistor per PCB, so each transistor only has to push a maximum of 36 LEDs.  (The single transistor on the JD45 gets quite warm pushing 45 LEDs!)

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[user 18]

Okay, so if I wanted to run an indicator light, other pins are  still accessible? Excellent.

[berserkfan]

Everything looks so awesome, I can't think of anything else except to test this.

BTW it also looks as though it means you can wire up 32 LEDs to the normal circuit, and have 4 pads left over for the WASD LEDs if you neeed to make them work independently and program them and what not?
(This is not something I personally care about, but some gamers may.)

Let's see if I have some clue:

6+6 IO pads on teensy will be for this keyboard matrix.
Teensy has 25 IO pads available.
You can choose to hook up 2 keypads as 'ergodox' with 1 more IO pad for capslock.
Or if you are using 1 teensy per keypad you will have 6+6 for keyboard matrix and 13 IO left over. That means you can have capslock light, scrolllock light, numlock light, 3 function layer lights if you want 3 function layers, and still 7 more IO?

This suggests that for instance a busy geek can direct wire the leds to 7 circuits so allow for finer control of the backlighting?
(I will have all LEDS on the same circuit, but am just trying to understand how this works. Furthermore the answers to my questions may help other people)

What about Arduino?

[samwisekoi]

Hmmm.  No.  Here are the Teensy pinouts:

24 Side pins available

6 - Rows 1-6
6 - Columns 1-6
6 - Columns 7-12 (the second PCB in a pair)
2 - Power and Ground
1 - Used for PWM backlighting (LED1)
---
21 Used for primary circuits, including backlighting

That leaves THREE unused main pins.  They are labeled and assigned, but they are NOT wired in, and so are available.

2 - Assigned to NUM and CAPS
1 - Assigned to secondary lighting circuit LED2

Those three pins  (B4, B5, and B6) can be used as you see fit.  PWM control is available on pins B5 and B6.

Remember, there are two MX switches above the Teensy, so the interior pins (center and bottom edge) would be very hard to use.  I cannot provide pads for them, in any event.

I know essentially nothing about Arduino.

See picture below for details of pin use.  The three unused pins are circled in yellow.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[user 18]

Everything looks so awesome, I can't think of anything else except to test this.

BTW it also looks as though it means you can wire up 32 LEDs to the normal circuit, and have 4 pads left over for the WASD LEDs if you neeed to make them work independently and program them and what not?
(This is not something I personally care about, but some gamers may.)

Let's see if I have some clue:

6+6 IO pads on teensy will be for this keyboard matrix.
Teensy has 25 IO pads available.
You can choose to hook up 2 keypads as 'ergodox' with 1 more IO pad for capslock.
Or if you are using 1 teensy per keypad you will have 6+6 for keyboard matrix and 13 IO left over. That means you can have capslock light, scrolllock light, numlock light, 3 function layer lights if you want 3 function layers, and still 7 more IO?

This suggests that for instance a busy geek can direct wire the leds to 7 circuits so allow for finer control of the backlighting?
(I will have all LEDS on the same circuit, but am just trying to understand how this works. Furthermore the answers to my questions may help other people)

What about Arduino?

It should theoretically work fine with an arduino, but it won't be able to be soldered directly to the board like you can do with the teensy, due to differences in pin locations/assignments. You'd have to run a lot of extra wires, and assuming you want a pair of boards hooked together, you'd need to ensure you had 19 data pins available. Most arduino (or compatible) controllers that have that many pins exposed aren't significantly cheaper than a teensy in any case, at least that I've found. IMO, it would be an awful lot of work to save very little money. For a half board or cutting one down to a numpad, it might be more reasonable to use something like a pro micro, but you'd still need to run a bunch of loose wires just to get the matrix to line up properly.

It should be theoretically possible to hand-wire different LED zones, but you'd need to cut traces to isolate these zones. (You may also need another transistor? I'm not entirely sure how those circuits work, will need to do some reading.)

[samwisekoi]

It should theoretically work fine with an arduino, but it won't be able to be soldered directly to the board like you can do with the teensy, due to differences in pin locations/assignments. You'd have to run a lot of extra wires, and assuming you want a pair of boards hooked together, you'd need to ensure you had 19 data pins available. Most arduino (or compatible) controllers that have that many pins exposed aren't significantly cheaper than a teensy in any case, at least that I've found. IMO, it would be an awful lot of work to save very little money. For a half board or cutting one down to a numpad, it might be more reasonable to use something like a pro micro, but you'd still need to run a bunch of loose wires just to get the matrix to line up properly.

It should be theoretically possible to hand-wire different LED zones, but you'd need to cut traces to isolate these zones. (You may also need another transistor? I'm not entirely sure how those circuits work, will need to do some reading.)

Thanks for this.  And yes, you need a transistor for any LED circuit that needs more than 100mA, and quite frankly, I'd suggest a transistor for any circuit with more than one LED.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[berserkfan]

Ron, let me just get my bearings in order.

1)   switches should be soldered in first
2)   teensy will be soldered in after that, on the other side as the switches. So removing either is fairly difficult. You don’t have access to the switch solder pads until you remove the teensy, but you can’t really get the big solder sucker into position as easily as it was to get just the solder wire into position earlier, because the switches are on the other side and in the way?
3)   What do you mean by labeled and assigned but not wired in? Does that mean no hardware support, so if we decide to make them the three standard lock lights, I should run 1 wire from each to the LEDs for lock lights and then do the programming? (You can tell from my questions that I’m kinda stupid about such things.)
4)   LED circuit only means LEDs being CONTROLLED right? Not in a series of 36? If one LED dies, will it bring down the entire system and force users to test each LED individually?
5) What about the resistors for LEDs? how are they being wired up?

OK, here’s one potential contribution. I got to offer it because I think it is worth your serious consideration at the point when you’ve just designed the casing and are about to offer it for download.

The teensy can be inserted into SIP sockets.

SIP sockets are cheap.

So I propose soldering in two rows of SIP sockets instead. (The teensy should be inserted anyway before soldering to make sure the SIPs are exactly straight.) That way whenever you want to remove the teensy, or to change out the two Cherry switches, you only have to pull off the teensy.

The height may be raised by 2mm so your casing may have to be adjusted.

[samwisekoi]

Answers buried in your post.

 - Ron | samwisekoi

Ron, let me just get my bearings in order.

1)   switches should be soldered in first
The Teensy goes in last.  I do diodes, then resistors, then switches, then LEDs, then the transistor, and then, finally, the Teensy.

2)   teensy will be soldered in after that, on the other side as the switches. So removing either is fairly difficult. You don’t have access to the switch solder pads until you remove the teensy, but you can’t really get the big solder sucker into position as easily as it was to get just the solder wire into position earlier, because the switches are on the other side and in the way?
Yes.  It is horrible.  Frankly, I would say that without sockets it is impossible to remove the Teensy without destroying it.

3)   What do you mean by labeled and assigned but not wired in? Does that mean no hardware support, so if we decide to make them the three standard lock lights, I should run 1 wire from each to the LEDs for lock lights and then do the programming? (You can tell from my questions that I’m kinda stupid about such things.)
You have it exactly correct.

4)   LED circuit only means LEDs being CONTROLLED right? Not in a series of 36? If one LED dies, will it bring down the entire system and force users to test each LED individually?
Again, you are correct.  Control only.  Each LED is on an individual, parallel circuit.

5) What about the resistors for LEDs? how are they being wired up?
One per LED, directly from the LED to the ground plane.

OK, here’s one potential contribution. I got to offer it because I think it is worth your serious consideration at the point when you’ve just designed the casing and are about to offer it for download.

The teensy can be inserted into SIP sockets.

SIP sockets are cheap.

So I propose soldering in two rows of SIP sockets instead. (The teensy should be inserted anyway before soldering to make sure the SIPs are exactly straight.) That way whenever you want to remove the teensy, or to change out the two Cherry switches, you only have to pull off the teensy.

The height may be raised by 2mm so your casing may have to be adjusted.
Yes.  I have tried various options, including the sockets sold with the Teensy.  They are the easiest.  And the tallest.  SIP sockets are much lower profile, but require thinner pins.  See my post in the JD45 thread on how to do that, including the specific sockets I use,

[samwisekoi]

Another Day, Another Update: V2.1 Interconnect

The prototype PCBs used a very simple and utilitarian interconnect that required multiple cables and did not support backlighting.  V2.0 of the interconnect upgrades that in the following ways:

1) Single cable with a polarized 2x8 DIP connector on each end.
2) Side outlet directly across from the Teensy.
3) Power, ground, and LED1 added to the interconnect.
4) Interconnect can be deployed on top or underneath the PCBs.
5) PCBs are marked with IN and OUT labels and connector boundary (assumes bottom placement.)
[EDIT]
6) Pins arranged to enable the use of a ribbon cable for the interconnect.
[/EDIT]

The detail shown below is of a PAIR of GH36 PCBs shown from underneath.  The PCB showing the IN connector is the the PCB with the Teensy installed.  The PCB showing the OUT connector is the secondary GH36 without a Teensy.

[EDIT]
Updated to V2.1 to enable ribbon cable for interconnect.  Updated and improve interconnect diagram now shown.
[/EDIT]

All other features described for the Rev 1.1 PCB are retained.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[njbair]

So basically to make a lefthand / righthand board, you flip the PCB over and solder the components in the opposite direction, is that correct?

[samwisekoi]

So basically to make a lefthand / righthand board, you flip the PCB over and solder the components in the opposite direction, is that correct?

Yup.  Easy as pie.  Then add an interconnect (see recent edit above) and you're good to go.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[samwisekoi]

Ok, the PCB layout is ready for review.  I already see that the column connector to D4 is missing (see blue circle.)  Are there any more errors?

deleted

I'll run some checks, and fix anything found, and then we'll have ourselves a little flash buy.

Enjoy!

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[njbair]

Ok, the PCB layout is ready for review.  I already see that the column connector to D4 is missing (see blue circle.)  Are there any more errors?

Show Image

GH36 Gamepad PCB Layout 150512a9 by samwisekoi 2015.

I'll run some checks, and fix anything found, and then we'll have ourselves a little flash buy.

Enjoy!

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

Are we calling this Version 2 then?

[samwisekoi]

Update: New PCB with New Features

Ok, so I did some more work on this PCB.  I've added:

 - Status LEDs (NUM, CAPS, LED2) at the top of the PCB.
 - Pads for you to do something ELSE with those three circuits.
 - An optional LED2 circuit to make the top row be a separate LED zone, including marked CUT and JUMP points.
NOTE: Skilled builders could place the second backlight zone anywhere; I've just made it easy to make the top row use LED2.
 - Removed all passives that were under the Teensy.
 - Relocated some other passives that were in hard-to-reach places.
 - Simplified the ground plane.
 - Rotated all diodes (and LEDs) to a standard orientation.
 - Fixed all known errors.


GH36 BETA PCB v.150512c1 by samwisekoi 2015.

This is the PCB to check for errors.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[berserkfan]

Ron, this is super, super, super!

That said, I notice you have been moving very quickly. I urge you not to do anything for another 2 weeks while the other makers have a chance to examine the PCB at leisure. This cooling off period may be vital towards identifying any flaws.

For me, I can make no head nor tail of this PCB. My limited brain and eyes can only comprehend the simple PCBs of low quality keyboards.

[user 18]

Ron, would it be possible to post images of individual layers of the board? One image with red traces, one image with green traces, one image with the orange component outlines/labels?

I'm having trouble following traces in some of the busier areas of the board, and that would help me check over the board more effectively.

[samwisekoi]

Ron, would it be possible to post images of individual layers of the board? One image with red traces, one image with green traces, one image with the orange component outlines/labels?

I'm having trouble following traces in some of the busier areas of the board, and that would help me check over the board more effectively.

Yes.  Those are the front traces, the back traces, and the back silkscreen layers, respectively.  I'll grab some clearer and higher-resolution images when I get home this evening.

Thanks!

 - Ron | samwisekoi

[berserkfan]

Ron, may I suggest posting the specs and parts numbers of all the SIP sockets, resistors, transistors, cables etc involved in building a GH36 paired keyboard? Apart from the more common switches and LEDs that most people have experience with, most people are probably not quite sure what they should be using.

Am somewhat unsure how to get the correct SIP sockets. I already have teensies and they never came with their own SIP sockets.

I also hope that someone who’s CONUS can step forward and do these logistics like putting together a kit for people working on this keyboard…

[user 18]

Diodes will be 1N4148 or similar. LEDs are up to the builder, any 3mm flangeless or 2x3x4mm LED will work. Resistors will vary depending on the LEDs picked, to modulate brightness.

Not sure about transistors, but someone posted earlier in the thread about the transistor they had used, I think it was Ron. Will try to find it.

SIP sockets are usually to make LEDs removable without desoldering, rather than for the teensy, IIRC. Although I suppose the teensy could just as easily be socketed. Teensy pin spacing is 2.54mm, so you'll want 2.54mm SIP sockets as well.

There are a bunch of options for the interconnect, the simplest being running a cable straight across. Easiest way to do that is to use an old floppy or IDE cable. You could also probably get by with a couple of runs of Cat 5. If you want a removable cable, you'll probably want a 2x8 16-pin ribbon cable, as well as 2.54mm header pins. I'm not sure at all what the real name of that last bit is, but it's easy enough to find by googling.


E:

I used a 31 cent transistor, Mouser P/N 512-MPSA29, which should handle up to 40 20mA LEDs.

[njbair]

I think you're referring to a shrouded box header. Here is one on Amazon.

Also, that Amazon page has suggestions for the matching socket connectors and ribbon cable. But you might want to look around for colored ribbon cable if you want to add some flair.

For those clamp-on socket connectors, you are technically supposed to use a special crimping tool but I have done it in a bench vise with blocks of wood on each side to keep from crushing it.

[samwisekoi]

Wow!  Activity in the thread!  Cool.

I posted a complete parts list earlier in the thread, and will find it and post an updated version.  For the BETA ONLY, I am willing to place a component order with Mouser, slip some GH36 PCBs into the box when it arrives at my office, and then re-mail it to whomever.  That would be everything you need except switches and a Teensy.

Oh, and a case.  Or a pair of cases.  I've made a few, but that's not my thing.  See the latest over in the JD45 thread.  My personal case looks like this:


GH36 Prototype gamepad case by samwisekoi 2014.

I've also designed a glue-up acrylic case that was cheaper and had a pair made.  (Sorry for the dusty keycaps.)


GH36 Prototype dual-PCB cases by samwisekoi 2014.

I've also done a number of renders of pancake cases, none of which I really like.  The latest JD45 case design by Wilba looks good; check it out here.

I have thoughts about how to make a cross-over cable, but I don't have my sources here so I will post about that later.

Larger, clearer schematic coming soon.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[samwisekoi]

Schematics for days!

Here you go...


GH36 Beta PCB front and back traces.  Samwisekoi 2015.


GH36 Beta PCB front traces.  Samwisekoi 2015.


GH36 Beta PCB back traces.  Samwisekoi 2015.


GH36 Beta PCB back silk.  Samwisekoi 2015.


GH36 Beta PCB front traces + silk.  Samwisekoi 2015.

Full Imgur album:  http://imgur.com/a/kXu6F#0

Enjoy!  (Also, please let me know about any errors, omissions, or questions.)

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[berserkfan]

Wow... this is stuff only a dedicated engineer could love... 

But the project is moving forward nicely. Yes, I think that a complete Gh36 package is better than just the PCBs. It would be far more cost efficient to get a complete kit. Even for the people who don't need some extras (eg LED resistors), the waste is minimal compared to spending time to look and buying each part separately and paying all that shipping and waiting for packages to stagger in from different sellers.

Take for example Njbair's link. That shrouded cable box is $3.48 on Amazon, which seems really expensive for a simple component like that. To add injury to insult, shipping is $6.15 for that box (it comes in a pair). If Ron ordered components for everything to be placed on twenty or fifty PCBs from Mouser or whoever that has everything, shipping would probably still be $6.15.

Also I am particularly interested in the SIP sockets for the Teensy. I can buy standard SIPs from China, but can't find the ones with the ideal length that Ron was talking about. Surely making everything part of one package would be far better. I'm sure most people including me are happy to pay Ron a markup of 50% for his time.

(ps a markup of 50% is still very cost efficient unless you are a technician who already has all the parts in his workshop and don't need to cough up $6.15 shipping here and $3 shipping there.)

[njbair]

Ron, you can make a BOM and save it on Mouser's site, then anyone can add all those parts to their cart in one click. I think that might save on shipping costs, but maybe not. It would be a good option.

[samwisekoi]

Ron, you can make a BOM and save it on Mouser's site, then anyone can add all those parts to their cart in one click. I think that might save on shipping costs, but maybe not. It would be a good option.

Yup.  That is the plan in any event.

Thanks for the reminder.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)

[user 18]

Finally got some time to do a visual check of the traces. Pretty much everything looks good to me in terms of things hooking up where they are supposed to, traces not overlapping, that sort of thing. I do see a couple of vias that don't appear to link to anything (they're easiest to see if you look at the green layer only), and there's an LED2 pad at the interconnect that isn't connected to any traces, which I assume is intentional.

I can't see anything else wrong with the design. Of course, that doesn't mean I'm certain it's perfect, but it looks good enough for a buy, in my eyes.

I think you're referring to a shrouded box header. Here is one on Amazon.

I actually did mean just pins, but it's essentially the same thing without the shroud. Think GPIO pins on a raspberry pi.

[samwisekoi]

Thanks very much!  After spending tens of hours staring at the traces, it is easy to start seeing things that aren't there, etc.

I'll take a look at the things you mentioned and then announce a flash buy for a Beta round.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.

Finally got some time to do a visual check of the traces. Pretty much everything looks good to me in terms of things hooking up where they are supposed to, traces not overlapping, that sort of thing. I do see a couple of vias that don't appear to link to anything (they're easiest to see if you look at the green layer only), and there's an LED2 pad at the interconnect that isn't connected to any traces, which I assume is intentional.

I can't see anything else wrong with the design. Of course, that doesn't mean I'm certain it's perfect, but it looks good enough for a buy, in my eyes.

[berserkfan]

Looking at this it seems that the leds are going to be in front facing the keyboard user? On conventional backlit keycaps with their legends on top, hardly any light will show through. Am not criticizing or anything, but people who wish to put LEDs should be aware and buy those clear switch tops accordingly to maximize the light passing through.

[berserkfan]

OK, not to sound like the 40 year young hobbit trying to teach 200 year old samwise how to eat lembas, but just a reminder

Teensy with pins was designed for these things. So we need to be soldering the female headers and then placing the teensy into the sockets. Samwisekoi please remember to add the appropriate mouser part numbers into your list of 'necessities' like resistors and diodes. The link is to a picture I googled and I don't know the correct trade description.

I think many experts made the mistake of soldering the teensy with pins directly into the pads, and now have difficulty if they ever want to desolder teensy.

[user 18]

OK, not to sound like the 40 year young hobbit trying to teach 200 year old samwise how to eat lembas, but just a reminder

Show Image

Teensy with pins was designed for these things. So we need to be soldering the female headers and then placing the teensy into the sockets. Samwisekoi please remember to add the appropriate mouser part numbers into your list of 'necessities' like resistors and diodes. The link is to a picture I googled and I don't know the correct trade description.

I think many experts made the mistake of soldering the teensy with pins directly into the pads, and now have difficulty if they ever want to desolder teensy.

It may have been designed for those socketed headers, but they aren't strictly speaking a necessity to make the teensy work, and they definitely increase the height compared to a directly soldered teensy. I'm not sure how tight the tolerances are on the case Ron has designed, but using those headers may well make the case not fit.

If you're concerned about the teensy needing to be desoldered -- why? Once it's programmed, it should be on there and left alone. If you want to play with firmware before mounting the teensy, it's easy enough to run jumper wires from the teensy to its mount points, or easier still to run them to the interconnect points. That way you don't need to solder the teensy until you know the firmware is working the way you want it.

Out of interest, I think this is what you'd want (you'd need two, one for each side on the teensy): http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/6-535541-0/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs%252bGHln7q6pm0wZ0LWRnA5CpSAPoA%2fgKMg%3d

[berserkfan]

User 18, the problem is that once soldered, you can't adjust the switches and LEDs for 2 positions since they are now blocked. That's why on this particular design the teensy can't be soldered permanently. You're asking for trouble should you ever need to change a dead LED or a stuttering switch.

 the most common problems that people have are stuttering switches and dead leds.

[user 18]

User 18, the problem is that once soldered, you can't adjust the switches and LEDs for 2 positions since they are now blocked. That's why on this particular design the teensy can't be soldered permanently. You're asking for trouble should you ever need to change a dead LED or a stuttering switch.

 the most common problems that people have are stuttering switches and dead leds.

Makes sense, I concede the point.

I'm not a fan of LED backlighting, so that didn't even enter my mind as a potential issue. Now that I do think of it, a solution may be to SIP socket mod those two particular positions. I was considering with PCB mount switches that it would be trivial to change the stem type or remove debris, although chattering relating to bad solder joints or the internals of the switch could definitely pose a problem.

[mavu]

Hello,

Not sure about etiquette about such things here, but i hope i'm not stepping on any toes.

I just wanted to say that this is exactly the keyboard i have been looking for, and i would very much appreciate being able to order a kit somewhere, even if its "only" a beta. I currently own 3 Typematrixes in various stages of brokenness, and would love to replace them with something more durable, and/or repairable.

I work as a software developer, and have done some minor stuff with arduinos, so i might be able to give some feedback from a "educated hardware noob" perspective.


Edit: Also, which key switches can be used on the pcb? Cherry and compatilbes? matias alps? both?

[user 18]

Hello,

Not sure about etiquette about such things here, but i hope i'm not stepping on any toes.

I just wanted to say that this is exactly the keyboard i have been looking for, and i would very much appreciate being able to order a kit somewhere, even if its "only" a beta. I currently own 3 Typematrixes in various stages of brokenness, and would love to replace them with something more durable, and/or repairable.

I work as a software developer, and have done some minor stuff with arduinos, so i might be able to give some feedback from a "educated hardware noob" perspective.


Edit: Also, which key switches can be used on the pcb? Cherry and compatilbes? matias alps? both?

This design can use Cherry and compatible switches. You'll probably want to use PCB mount switches, as it will be much easier than getting a plate to work with this board.

There will likely be a buy happening shortly so everyone who wants to get some of these will have a chance to buy them (in pairs). I don't know exactly when that will be though.

[mavu]

This design can use Cherry and compatible switches. You'll probably want to use PCB mount switches, as it will be much easier than getting a plate to work with this board.

There will likely be a buy happening shortly so everyone who wants to get some of these will have a chance to buy them (in pairs). I don't know exactly when that will be though.

Thanks, I assume it will be announced in this thread? I'll keep an eye on it then.

[hj-s]

Interested in 2 PCBs. Want to make a keypad just for gaming.

[CryptoKid]

I would also be interested in 2 PCB:s, for making a split keyboard.

BTW, what keycaps are those in this samwisekoi's image? They are very nice looking!

[user 18]

I would also be interested in 2 PCB:s, for making a split keyboard.

BTW, what keycaps are those in this samwisekoi's image? They are very nice looking!

They're a custom set he got from WASD, I do believe.

[patmur2010]

I am also interested in purchasing one of these for gaming.  How much do they cost? How do I order one?

Patmur2010

[user 18]

I am also interested in purchasing one of these for gaming.  How much do they cost? How do I order one?

Patmur2010

PCBs are expected to be $20 for a pair once the buy starts. We can't buy quite yet, we're still waiting on Ron to get everything sorted. Keep an eye on this thread and you should know.