Need some advice modding my QFR (soldering)

[remedyhalopc]

Hi! I've been collecting some stuff for this project of mine. Right now, I have a stock QFR with green switches but I'm looking to change that.

I have pretty good experience soldering, just not with keyboards. I'm a little nervous! I have a new plate that lets me change the stems/springs without desoldering all of them. It came with cherry stabs that I have no idea how to install compared to costar. If anyone has any guides or step by steps I should be following in regards to the stabs and plate installation, that'd be great. Thank you!

[dorkvader]

Plate installation is easy, if not straightforward.
1. desolder all the switches
2. take them out of the old plate and put them in the new one
3. solder it back

The hardest part about this with the QFR is that since it's only got a one-sided PCB, it's a lot easier to damage the traces.

Cherry stabilizer installation is different. I would show some pictures, but the only plate I have left is a 7bit phantom plate: no stabilizers!

[remedyhalopc]

I definitely got ahead of myself with this thread. Google answered most of my questions with guides and videos. 

One thing I couldn't find specific information on is what you mentioned Dork. The traces confuse me. I assume they're how they communicate with the switches, but I'm not sure. I'm also not sure how to fix a trace if I damage one, or even what a damaged trace looks like.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Glad you got my plate right before the week ended .

dorvader means that the pads that you desolder and solder on the quickfire are more fragile than a higher end Costar board (Filco), which has pads on the surface that goes all the way through the hole to the other side. Your quickfire only has pads on the surface, so you'll have to be careful about using the correct temps, time you leave it on here, and very light pressure. Otherwise you can lift those pads/traces.

A damaged trace can be torn, lifted off the PCB, or just completely come off. If you happen to ruin one like this, then you can repair it by taking a small wire and solder it directly from the switch pin to the next diode or pad.

[remedyhalopc]

I guess I'll inquire for more details on that if it becomes necessary.

I have a 35w soldering iron. I can't imagine the 5 extra watts over the recommended number would be able to do much damage unless I was really careless.

I need to convert my desk into a surgery table, and then commit 4-5 hours to get this bad boy done! Hopefully will be done by Monday night provided I don't have to work.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Higher wattage doesn't mean it has a higher max temp. It just means how fast the iron can recover after every solder joint, or how large the part that you're soldering can be. 35w is fine for switches, as long as you can actually adjust the temps yourself. Irons that don't have temp control will just always run at max temps, which is not good for fragile traces.

[cyberwave]

don't mind me piggy-backing on this thread

i recently aquired a filco majestouch 1 for cheap and if i'm not wrong it's like a qfr with a single sided pcb.

does anyone have experience soldering on a MJ1 and able to give me some advice? 

[remedyhalopc]

Higher wattage doesn't mean it has a higher max temp. It just means how fast the iron can recover after every solder joint, or how large the part that you're soldering can be. 35w is fine for switches, as long as you can actually adjust the temps yourself. Irons that don't have temp control will just always run at max temps, which is not good for fragile traces.

Hmm. Mine doesn't control temps. Should I continue or get a nicer solder?

[remedyhalopc]

Desoldering is easy. So easy.

We shall see how easy soldering the switches back on is though lol.

Do I install the cherry stabs before the switches?

[WhiteFireDragon]

Glad you didn't have a hard time with it. Other people dread desoldering. What did you use to desolder it?

Cherry stabs needs to be installed BEFORE everything is put back. Costar stabs can be done any time.

i recently aquired a filco majestouch 1 for cheap and if i'm not wrong it's like a qfr with a single sided pcb.

Similar to quickfire, but the pads are not as fragile. In other words, they're more newb-friendly.

[remedyhalopc]

Hey WFD!

I don't know how to remove the switches with LEDs from the PCB/Plate.

I used a RadioShack soldering iron with the bulb solder sucker built on top. EXTREMELY handy! I'm going to try to finish soldering tonight, but we'll see how that goes.

[Jocelyn]

You need to desolder the LEDs from the PCB first

[remedyhalopc]

I completely missed those solder pads.
 Duh.

[Jocelyn]

You may as well do this if you have a dremel - http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40126.msg794392#msg794392

[remedyhalopc]

I completely missed those solder pads.
 Duh.

[remedyhalopc]

You may as well do this if you have a dremel - http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40126.msg794392#msg794392

Yep. Already done! Mine don't look nice, but I'm making due with the smallest dremel bit I have. I have extra switch housing that ill use once I have a smaller bit, but this will do for now.

[remedyhalopc]

Too nice not to post!

Also, I lost a LED...lol. I have no idea how.


Edit:
Did I install this cherry stab right?

The switch doesn't feel like it's depressing all the way. I hear the green switch click, so it'll definitely actuate. Just feels so strange compared to costar.

[remedyhalopc]

Too nice not to post!

Also, I lost a LED...lol. I have no idea how.


Edit:
Did I install this cherry stab right?

Show Image

Show Image

The switch doesn't feel like it's depressing all the way. I hear the green switch click, so it'll definitely actuate. Just feels so strange compared to costar.

Edit 2: my costar stabs fit, but when I go to install a cap with it to test it, it seems like the stab is being pushed in too much by the plate??

[The_Beast]

The plate is more than likely too thick. Costar required a .060" +/-.002" plate thickness. I have no idea what these are, but they're more than likely 16 gauge (.0625") or 1/16" (also .0625")

Those are cherry btw

[remedyhalopc]

I have both kinda of stabilizers. The cherry ones don't feel right, but maybe I'm installing them wrong.



Edit:

I'm a dumbass. I was installing the cherry stabs very wrong.

Edit 2: somehow lost 1 stem portion of a stab.

Also cauterized part of my finger lol.

[remedyhalopc]

Worthy of a new post!

[OddOne]

remedyhalopc, looking nice! I finally got around to continuing with my QFR mod as well. Desoldered all the cherry MX blues tonight. Next step, turn them into ergo clears with switch stickers and lube.  I'll save that for another night though...

[cyberwave]

remedyhalopc, looking nice! I finally got around to continuing with my QFR mod as well. Desoldered all the cherry MX blues tonight. Next step, turn them into ergo clears with switch stickers and lube.  I'll save that for another night though...

what lube are you gonna use for the stems?

my clears do stick a little on the way up

[WhiteFireDragon]

Worthy of a new post!

I'm digging that plate  . You found that misplaced stabilize piece? That's some crazy mix of switches though. How do you type with linear and clicky switches on the main keys? Any particular reason why you have it in the pattern you do now?

my clears do stick a little on the way up

Lube it, that helps a ton if you feel like they're sticking. Any lube is better than no lube.

[Larken]

I'm going off wild guesses here, but if the springs in those blues aren't changed, likely this is an interesting variable weight set up for gaming.

modifiers are linear because those keys aren't struck, but held down - tactile, clicky switches have a problem of somewhat sticking on slow releases.

wasd - obviously for gaming purposes - likely fps.

is that a white switch on the spacebar or a clear?

The only strange thing about this set up is the fact that the pinky keys for the right hand aren't accounted for in terms of variable weighting. It looks like the OP is only concerned with getting a lighter key press on the keys traditionally used for FPS mainly (WASD, QER, ctrl,shift mods 12345), which seems about right except I'd probably swap out zxc for blues too.

Also, it'd probably be a little weird to type on this keyboard, especially because of the linear wasd cluster. Very interesting set up though.

@remedyhalopc: let me know if I guess correctly?

[remedyhalopc]

Worthy of a new post!

I'm digging that plate  . You found that misplaced stabilize piece? That's some crazy mix of switches though. How do you type with linear and clicky switches on the main keys? Any particular reason why you have it in the pattern you do now?

I did find it! I somehow dropped it and kicked it 20 feet away. I was baffled.

Typing is really interesting (read: gross) , and it totally throws me off when I type anything involving the letters WASD. It's pretty much exclusively for counterstrike. I have a thesis paper that I'm starting this summer, and I'm going to install ergo clears on it for sure.

I'm going off wild guesses here, but if the springs in those blues aren't changed, likely this is an interesting variable weight set up for gaming.

modifiers are linear because those keys aren't struck, but held down - tactile, clicky switches have a problem of somewhat sticking on slow releases.

wasd - obviously for gaming purposes - likely fps.

is that a white switch on the spacebar or a clear?

The only strange thing about this set up is the fact that the pinky keys for the right hand aren't accounted for in terms of variable weighting. It looks like the OP is only concerned with getting a lighter key press on the keys traditionally used for FPS mainly (WASD, QER, ctrl,shift mods 12345), which seems about right except I'd probably swap out zxc for blues too.

Also, it'd probably be a little weird to type on this keyboard, especially because of the linear wasd cluster. Very interesting set up though.

@remedyhalopc: let me know if I guess correctly?

Very close! It's a clear switch with green spring. At the time the blacks had green springs in them, but now sport 62g Korean springs. Didn't like the feel of 62g in the blues though, those stayed stock. Left shift/control are both red switches, but I used a red stem for L Shift as a reminder that L Ctrl has a red spring in it. ZXC are radio commands, and I'd like to avoid hitting them entirely. The only time I use them are randomly at the beginning of the round or to be funny.

[Larken]

I see. The comment about the zxc (or for that matter, the tfgv keys) came about because it would be how I'll set mine up if I decided to do one for MMORPGs (all the buttons around the movement cluster are used for some actions). For your case, it would definitely make sense to leave them alone.

In my personal experience, clears as spacebars don't feel right to me either, especially one with a lighter spring. Give it a try and if it doesn't feel right to you either, swap it out for a stiff, lubed red. (the reason being that most of the tactility is lost on buttons hit by the thumb anyway. Clears stick on larger keys, although it won't be a problem since you're using the spring from a green spring).

[OddOne]

what lube are you gonna use for the stems?

my clears do stick a little on the way up

I am going to try this Super Lube: http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365335132&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube+synthetic+grease

I've used an oil before and it seemed to 'evaporate' too quickly to be effective. I think the grease will hold up for the long hall better. Other members have recommending this particular brand before too.