So the led control by default is the top right most button plus 1 through 5. The button to the top right side of backspace turns the lights on the bottom of the pcb on and off and so does the led toggle + 5.
To start, my photo album so far is here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/115329034@N04/sets/72157640117516876/). I've yet to get replacement side LEDs, but they are probably going to be warm white or neutral white. Going to use MX Clears in mine--likely stock, but we'll see.Those are some really lovely photos. Thanks for posting!
To start, my photo album so far is here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/115329034@N04/sets/72157640117516876/). I've yet to get replacement side LEDs, but they are probably going to be warm white or neutral white. Going to use MX Clears in mine--likely stock, but we'll see.
To start, my photo album so far is here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/115329034@N04/sets/72157640117516876/). I've yet to get replacement side LEDs, but they are probably going to be warm white or neutral white. Going to use MX Clears in mine--likely stock, but we'll see.
I am assembling mine right now, man, this layout Fxx row is very retarded, I kinda hate 2 extra key after F12, not sure what I should do with it? /meh
Besides, mine does not come with plate, i am wondering if any of you does come with plate
I am assembling mine right now, man, this layout Fxx row is very retarded, I kinda hate 2 extra key after F12, not sure what I should do with it? /meh
Besides, mine does not come with plate, i am wondering if any of you does come with plate
Why did you get this keyboard then ? :) I got it because I liked all the extra caps and layout options. You can always get some blockers and cover up some slots.
Not yet finished, but since this thread is sorely lacking photographs, I'll add my work in progress. I'm at the step where I need to solder everything to the PCB :)mind = blown.Show Image(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5507/12513692565_333f2f4e19_b.jpg)
Lubricating with Victorinox Oil and Krytox Mixture:Show Image(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3789/12513817683_bd113050c2_b.jpg)
I must say, this plate is not made for easy top cover removals, and getting switches in through the plate and the PCB was a PITA, as the PCB is pretty tight. I used all PCB-mounted housings. I actually had to remove all those swtiches one-by-one after they were nearly assembled--to put the top cover on :( I highly recommend lubricating and assembling switches first and mounting them afterwards.
SIP socket things:Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7429/12513696745_f9dc1d04c2_b.jpg)
in a switch:Show Image(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2865/12514159544_f1f9aef36b_b.jpg)Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7437/12513687025_f80e639ef7_b.jpg)
Leaving the black plastic in makes the top cover not close properly, so I cut all the pins out. Switch stickers also cause more problems than benefit in this case, making the top covers harder to close, so I skipped them. It looks much better without them anyway.
Ready to solder now:Show Image(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3763/12513808193_80d215b26b_b.jpg)
Trying on keycaps:Show Image(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3709/12515335004_b0191d0691_b.jpg)Show Image(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3765/12514870045_059eef7ec1_b.jpg)
Yup, they are.
Yup, they are.
Where does one acquire them?
So here's my final selection:Show Image(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2836/12595638985_7b2ace2c02_b.jpg)
LEDs are slightly crooked in some switches due to SIP sockets being a major PITA. Speaking of SIP sockets, if you use those with this kit, they have fairly short legs and barely reach through the PCB. I had to use a fine tip chisel soldering iron and actually stick a corner of the tip into LED holes to touch the SIP socket ends for soldering. Contacts are all good, however, so it works fine. Inserting LEDs before soldering the sockets helps align the sockets better and also pushes them through as far as possible.
Some shots before cleaning off residual flux:Show Image(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5532/12596084714_72233d7370_b.jpg)Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/12595643875_b4b26def4e_b.jpg)
Another surprise was how wide those metal rings are around the switch pins. Took a bit longer to heat up as a result. I've got everything assembled and working now, and the first post here is updated with some tips.
So here's my final selection:Show Image(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2836/12595638985_7b2ace2c02_b.jpg)
LEDs are slightly crooked in some switches due to SIP sockets being a major PITA. Speaking of SIP sockets, if you use those with this kit, they have fairly short legs and barely reach through the PCB. I had to use a fine tip chisel soldering iron and actually stick a corner of the tip into LED holes to touch the SIP socket ends for soldering. Contacts are all good, however, so it works fine. Inserting LEDs before soldering the sockets helps align the sockets better and also pushes them through as far as possible.
Some shots before cleaning off residual flux:Show Image(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5532/12596084714_72233d7370_b.jpg)Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/12595643875_b4b26def4e_b.jpg)
Another surprise was how wide those metal rings are around the switch pins. Took a bit longer to heat up as a result. I've got everything assembled and working now, and the first post here is updated with some tips.
How do the clears feel with the plate?
Time for another lightsaber ...
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Time for another lightsaber ...
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Time for another lightsaber ...
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Added basic led/backlight support. Have fun.
Added basic led/backlight support. Have fun.
You still haven't explained why you chose to go with alternative software :)
Added basic led/backlight support. Have fun.
So are you like, the only one that actually has a Lightsaver? I haven't seen anyone else post one :P
So are you like, the only one that actually has a Lightsaver? I haven't seen anyone else post one :P
I was supposed to get one, but you know... sherry and all... yea....
Dorkvader ordered a few kits, I think.To clarify, There were supposed to be three. Mine and two for other Gh'ers. Of those two, one cancelled his order, and I never heard back from the other guy.
Yes, that issue is annoying, but you can go around it by creating a copy of a .hex file and then overwriting that copy when saving. Instead of saving a new file, when you overwrite an old one, somehow the path to it gets recognized properly. That's the workaround I found so far.Thanks for the tip: I will try this.
So you didn't pay for all three and have two extra right?No; I paid for and received one unit.
Someone sell me this board, or release another one ASAP!
Someone sell me this board, or release another one ASAP!
I think I saw a Round 2 mentioned with a different case can't remember what thread it was in.
Someone sell me this board, or release another one ASAP!
I think I saw a Round 2 mentioned with a different case can't remember what thread it was in.
Lightsaber support was merged by hasu and is now an official part of the tmk_firmware.
I'm currently testing a new backlight patch that gives you full keymap control of all available led channels.
How do you use the new keymapper?
Generating the hex file give me an error :/
Yes, that issue is annoying, but you can go around it by creating a copy of a .hex file and then overwriting that copy when saving. Instead of saving a new file, when you overwrite an old one, somehow the path to it gets recognized properly. That's the workaround I found so far.
How do you use the new keymapper?
Generating the hex file give me an error :/
How do you use the new keymapper?
Generating the hex file give me an error :/
In addition to Photoelectric's workaround you can also give the file a very simple name like "keymap.hex" or "lightsaver.hex".
How do you use the new keymapper?
Generating the hex file give me an error :/
In addition to Photoelectric's workaround you can also give the file a very simple name like "keymap.hex" or "lightsaver.hex".
For me, it was a path error, regardless of name. It was trying to save in a directory it could not find, as far as I could see from the error message. So overwriting another file was going around the path error.
The arrows show up as ??? but they get programmed properly anyway.
Let's do this! Some of us have already received our kits, and many are going to be working on theirs soon. This keyboard has lots of layout options, so I'm very excited to see what everyone decides on doing with their LightSaver :D
LightSaver is a tray-style aluminum keyboard by Duck with a TK-style PCB and LOTS of layout options! For Duck's official photo website, see here:
http://duck0113.tistory.com/66Show Image(http://cfile28.uf.tistory.com/image/2652B73F5252ACD11BE9CC)
More photographs:More.Show Image(http://cfile9.uf.tistory.com/image/241F6A4B5287624D27ADC9)Show Image(http://cfile8.uf.tistory.com/image/2615DC3E52637CF3380AE4)Show Image(http://cfile28.uf.tistory.com/image/23040F3F52637CF72D60BB)Show Image(http://cfile1.uf.tistory.com/image/2405E63C528A205E3098FD)Show Image(http://kbd4u.com/web/images/l-2.jpg)
There are 5 lighting modes (mode 5 is for side LEDs). The modes are called "L1", "L2", "L3", "L4", and "L5" in the original firmware, for key programming purposes. Before you do any reprogramming, by default the modes can be activated as follows:So the led control by default is the top right most button plus 1 through 5. The button to the top right side of backspace turns the lights on the bottom of the pcb on and off and so does the led toggle + 5.
Update! New firmware: http://duck0113.tistory.com/84 (select "Download : 02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.3.240.exe", use the OTD Lightsaver custom profile)
- user-defined debounce values
- a dozen different reactive modes and even more with their combinations
- macros, polling rate change, 4 separately programmable layout layers, etc.
- read carefully in Google Chrome using automatic translation option, it's actually very readable in the English translation
- Notes on reprogramming:MoreTo reprogram, look at this KMAC programming guide (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0) for reference--it's basically the same, except that to enter bootloader, unplug your LightSaver, press and hold the Flip key while plugging the USB cable back in. The Flip key is seen here:Show Image(http://cfile9.uf.tistory.com/original/2167403E52EE4A541051FB)
(it's the right-side 1x key above Backspace)
Modify existing keymap XML file in an XML editor, save it as XML, load it into TrueKeyMapper software to check that everything looks correct, generate a HEX file (you can do it from the KeyMapper), open Flip, enter bootloader mode, reprogram.
- Notes about LED modes:Moreby default, they are on Function Layer #3, which means press the MFN button 3 times in a quick succession to get to the 3rd function layer, and on the third time hold it and press a number associated with the area on the keyboard you want illuminated (alternatively, if you bind FN3 to some key, press FN3 + number)
1 = Function row LEDs
2 = Modifiers + number row
3 = Alphas
4 = Numpad
5 = Side LEDs
To cycle through different lighting modes, you can press those keys repeatedly. For example holding down FN3 (or having pressed MFN 3 times and holding it), you can keep pressing "3" to cycle through lighting modes for the alphas. Here are the lighting modes, in a cycle:
- All ON
- All OFF
- Breathing with longer dark periods
- Breathing with short dark periods (basically the opposite of the other kind of breathing, if you want to have 2 sections breathing exactly out of sync)
- Reactive ON (off until you push a key, then that section turns on briefly at maximum set brightness)
- Reactive OFF (on until you push a key, then that section turns off briefly)
- Breathing mode where speed varies based on typing speed--starts off breathing quickly then slows dramatically until you begin typing
- Breathing mode where speed varies based on typing speed--reverse of the above (breathing out of sync)
- OFF until you begin typing, then the section turns on gradually the faster you type. Fades back to off once you stop typing.
LED brightness level can be varied with LED D[ow]N and LED UP keys, on the same function layer #3 by default
- Command Mode (C/M) key allows you to enter into the programming mode, where you can set stuff like debounce values
- Note about the top right LED blinking every 2 seconds - it's on purpose, read here:MoreThe blinking LED shows you which layer you are in. It's called "Layer Status." There are 4 layers on the keyboard, so if the light blinks once every 2 seconds, it means Layer 1 is activated. 3 quick blinks means that you're in Layer 3, etc..
There are 2 modes in which that LED can be: either blinking every 2 seconds to let you know which layer you are in at all times or you can change it to only show you the layer number when changing into that layer, and then that LED will remain off until the next layer change. To switch between these two modes:
LLB: default LED Blink mode (every 2 seconds)
LLN: "Normal" LED mode (off until changing layers)
- Enter Control Mode (press the C/M button); the Layer Status LED should be lit now without blinking
- type LLN (or LLB) and press Enter
- Exit Control Mode by pressing Esc
Older LightSaver Firmware: http://duck0113.tistory.com/71
Older LightSaver Keymapper Software: http://duck0113.tistory.com/75
Alternative TMK firmware by xauser: https://github.com/xauser/tmk_keyboard
Sherryton's group buy discussion thread here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50036.0
Screws: the 10 little screws you need to attach the plate to the case are size M2 in Torx T6 with a 0.4mm pitch (called "coarse" or "normal") and 5mm length. If your set is missing screws, please see this (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53942.msg1268209#msg1268209) post by dorkvader--he ordered a large batch for himself that seems to fit better than stock screws I got with my kit.
Stabilizers: it appears that you need PCB-mounted Cherry stabilizers for this keyboard. You can source them from mouser.com and newark.com and such. Simple Questions Simple Answers (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40501.0#post_NN) thread has some notes about them in the first post.
The Side LEDs are 3.5mm x 2.8mm in size (3528 or 1411 package size).
All LED resistors appear to be 470 Ohm variety.
PLEASE NOTE when installing LEDs, polarity is not indicated on the PCB, but it's the standard + on the right, - on the left, when looking at the PCB from the top (not from the bottom). BUT, if you're doing a 1.5x modifier layout on the bottom row, note that the LEDs for the right-side Alt/GUI/Ctrl should be reversed in orientation to - / +.Show Image(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2878/12126309353_b90cf4ec80_h.jpg)Show Image(http://www.kbd4u.com/web/images/l-4.jpg)
There must be something wrong with mine, it doesn't program to arrow keys for me :/if u are using o2d, the arrow keys will not work by directly mapped it, this is one the bug that it had.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PZp8RMC.jpg)
Lubed linear switches (Dark Grays on the top row, sprit 62g gold Reds elsewhere)
Blue LEDs with SIP Sockets
aboStudio transparent switch covers
Procrastinated the build for like four months, haha. Flashing the firmware is simple, and I was pleasantly surprised to find how awesome the LED modes are.
I'm not really liking how BSP caps play with LEDs, round or 2x3x4 (bottoming out isn't as crisp as if there were no LEDs).. though that's not at all the fault of this board. Other keysets work fine. In any case, I'll continue playing around with this to get things to feel just right.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PZp8RMC.jpg)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PZp8RMC.jpg)
Lubed linear switches (Dark Grays on the top row, sprit 62g gold Reds elsewhere)
Blue LEDs with SIP Sockets
aboStudio transparent switch covers
Procrastinated the build for like four months, haha. Flashing the firmware is simple, and I was pleasantly surprised to find how awesome the LED modes are.
I'm not really liking how BSP caps play with LEDs, round or 2x3x4 (bottoming out isn't as crisp as if there were no LEDs).. though that's not at all the fault of this board. Other keysets work fine. In any case, I'll continue playing around with this to get things to feel just right.
The screws aren't to screw down the plate, they're to screw down the PCB. So whether you use the plate or not, everything will be attached.. And I believe the 1800-style layout with the arrow keys are new to the V2 PCB/plate.
Screws: the 10 little screws you need to attach the plate to the case are size M2 in Torx T6 with a 0.4mm pitch (called "coarse" or "normal") and 5mm length. If your set is missing screws, please see this post by dorkvader--he ordered a large batch for himself that seems to fit better than stock screws I got with my kit.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PZp8RMC.jpg)
Lubed linear switches (Dark Grays on the top row, sprit 62g gold Reds elsewhere)
Blue LEDs with SIP Sockets
aboStudio transparent switch covers
Procrastinated the build for like four months, haha. Flashing the firmware is simple, and I was pleasantly surprised to find how awesome the LED modes are.
I'm not really liking how BSP caps play with LEDs, round or 2x3x4 (bottoming out isn't as crisp as if there were no LEDs).. though that's not at all the fault of this board. Other keysets work fine. In any case, I'll continue playing around with this to get things to feel just right.
I'm not really liking how BSP caps play with LEDs, round or 2x3x4 (bottoming out isn't as crisp as if there were no LEDs).. though that's not at all the fault of this board. Other keysets work fine. In any case, I'll continue playing around with this to get things to feel just right.
How did you make the LED's light up so evenly? Is it the clear switch covers?
after months getting it, finally found time to assemble my light saver v1.
mx clears with 67g springs and transparent switch tops, no LED (yet), hyperfuse dsa keycaps
thanks for the help Elton and Photoelectric (and also for the helpful 'how to setup' and faq).
looking forward to getting the v2 pcb and plates, i hope they fit and mounting screws match the v1 caseShow Image(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JsbHMyfWsLA/U4QkDym5N2I/AAAAAAAAIJs/6fKX1x7xZsU/s1600/DSC00847.jpg)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NoajWvkL3Sc/U4QtdsuE0dI/AAAAAAAAIKg/LBH1BKfRak0/s1600/DSC00916.jpg)
Show Image(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JsbHMyfWsLA/U4QkDym5N2I/AAAAAAAAIJs/6fKX1x7xZsU/s1600/DSC00847.jpg)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NoajWvkL3Sc/U4QtdsuE0dI/AAAAAAAAIKg/LBH1BKfRak0/s1600/DSC00916.jpg)
MoreVery nice. :O I can't wait to receive mine guessing that won't be till July with shipping and customs.after months getting it, finally found time to assemble my light saver v1.
mx clears with 67g springs and transparent switch tops, no LED (yet), hyperfuse dsa keycaps
thanks for the help Elton and Photoelectric (and also for the helpful 'how to setup' and faq).
looking forward to getting the v2 pcb and plates, i hope they fit and mounting screws match the v1 caseShow Image(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JsbHMyfWsLA/U4QkDym5N2I/AAAAAAAAIJs/6fKX1x7xZsU/s1600/DSC00847.jpg)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NoajWvkL3Sc/U4QtdsuE0dI/AAAAAAAAIKg/LBH1BKfRak0/s1600/DSC00916.jpg)
Show Image(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JsbHMyfWsLA/U4QkDym5N2I/AAAAAAAAIJs/6fKX1x7xZsU/s1600/DSC00847.jpg)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NoajWvkL3Sc/U4QtdsuE0dI/AAAAAAAAIKg/LBH1BKfRak0/s1600/DSC00916.jpg)
Thank you for sharing! Looks really nice! Silver Lightsaver is best Lightsaver (j/k ;D) The screws should be M2 and I think "normal" or "coarse" threading, if you want to try ordering some extras. I believe the screws that were included originally have the wrong threading type.
P.S.: that's an interesting numpad layout!
Touched up my LightSaver today: swapped side LEDs to aqua and in-switch LEDs to turquoise + blue (alternating rows) and red for indicator LEDs + Function.Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14331832091_12760dcc59_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5507/14148503409_a1fb4d3d13_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3884/14148552660_6003732892_h.jpg)
Plus some re-programming, and it's back to being my main keyboard :thumb:
Touched up my LightSaver today: swapped side LEDs to aqua and in-switch LEDs to turquoise + blue (alternating rows) and red for indicator LEDs + Function.Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14331832091_12760dcc59_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5507/14148503409_a1fb4d3d13_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3884/14148552660_6003732892_h.jpg)
Plus some re-programming, and it's back to being my main keyboard :thumb:
Touched up my LightSaver today: swapped side LEDs to aqua and in-switch LEDs to turquoise + blue (alternating rows) and red for indicator LEDs + Function.Where do you get turquoise LEDs?Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14331832091_12760dcc59_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5507/14148503409_a1fb4d3d13_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3884/14148552660_6003732892_h.jpg)
Plus some re-programming, and it's back to being my main keyboard :thumb:
nice...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PZp8RMC.jpg)
Lubed linear switches (Dark Grays on the top row, sprit 62g gold Reds elsewhere)
Blue LEDs with SIP Sockets
aboStudio transparent switch covers
Procrastinated the build for like four months, haha. Flashing the firmware is simple, and I was pleasantly surprised to find how awesome the LED modes are.
I'm not really liking how BSP caps play with LEDs, round or 2x3x4 (bottoming out isn't as crisp as if there were no LEDs).. though that's not at all the fault of this board. Other keysets work fine. In any case, I'll continue playing around with this to get things to feel just right.
Those keycaps are GMK's ABS doubleshots from a WEY, with some doubleshots from an 1800, a few BSP Royal-Alpha typewriter PBT and ABS caps, and some CMYK.
The aqua and turquoise LEDs are from taobao, blue and red--from eBay. The LED spec is pretty much nonexistent there (generally very few parameters listed, and sometimes you get a brightness value, which I've learned does not mean much...), so I got some SMD ones to experiment with in 3528 size: magenta and aqua-blue. They are not as bright as the original red ones, but I like the watery shade. Almost used magenta at first.
The aqua and turquoise LEDs are from taobaoWould you mind linking them?
I've seen some rubber bands on korean keyboards between the PCB and plate: http://www.otd.kr/data/file/pj_356/2105777654_958acd14_DCS_7620.jpg
Not sure if they're used for that purpose though, but I think it could help.
Touched up my LightSaver today: swapped side LEDs to aqua and in-switch LEDs to turquoise + blue (alternating rows) and red for indicator LEDs + Function.These are stunning - going right into the keyboard porn folder!Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14331832091_12760dcc59_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5507/14148503409_a1fb4d3d13_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3884/14148552660_6003732892_h.jpg)
Plus some re-programming, and it's back to being my main keyboard :thumb:
Touched up my LightSaver today: swapped side LEDs to aqua and in-switch LEDs to turquoise + blue (alternating rows) and red for indicator LEDs + Function.Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14331832091_12760dcc59_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5507/14148503409_a1fb4d3d13_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3884/14148552660_6003732892_h.jpg)
Plus some re-programming, and it's back to being my main keyboard :thumb:
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.T2fwUp&id=38145907157&scm=1007.10115.744.0&pvid=e9c9516a-2db7-4106-8638-a6a27575686fThanks for the link.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.uWdIvf&id=36369414473&scm=1007.10115.744.0&pvid=842c0fba-a553-40e4-bd54-de3a62ba37fb
after months getting it, finally found time to assemble my light saver v1.
mx clears with 67g springs and transparent switch tops, no LED (yet), hyperfuse dsa keycaps
thanks for the help Elton and Photoelectric (and also for the helpful 'how to setup' and faq).
looking forward to getting the v2 pcb and plates, i hope they fit and mounting screws match the v1 caseShow Image(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JsbHMyfWsLA/U4QkDym5N2I/AAAAAAAAIJs/6fKX1x7xZsU/s1600/DSC00847.jpg)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NoajWvkL3Sc/U4QtdsuE0dI/AAAAAAAAIKg/LBH1BKfRak0/s1600/DSC00916.jpg)
Strange. I used the link in your first post for the 02D firmware. Is there a more up to date version than that?
Nevermind. I was able to get it working with the old TrueCustom software :) Thanks!
I GOT IT TO WORK!!! Not really sure how, but it works now. I just loaded up a new custom firmware template, and now it works. I was also able to program the FN layer to make the up and down arrows Page Up and Page Down, and now I can have LED control also! Thanks for the help!
-Tad
Why don't I have one of these?you can still get a duck viper/eagle if you like 60% :p
Trying to program mine, links to new firmware don't work.Select atmega32u4 first, then disconnect your board, reconnect the board while holding the flip key, then click the USB icon and select usb. Click open then select hex file from file
.edit: i got 1.4.288 and am not sure how to detect it with flip.
atmega32u4 doesnt seem to bring anything up, it's all grey.
edit2: wewnt to device manager; found atmel32u4; right click update driver software, choose file from computer, computer/programfilesx86/atmel/flip
Can someone please tell me how many brightness levels are there?
I have tried the odd firmwares and the newest one, but they all give me only 2 brightness levels (max brightness and off).
does anyone have the latest o2d keymapper?You can download the latest firmware from here
i can't download the latest one in duck's site (02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.4.271.exe).
thanks in advance
does anyone have the latest o2d keymapper?You can download the latest firmware from here
i can't download the latest one in duck's site (02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.4.271.exe).
thanks in advance
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=100301
thankdoes anyone have the latest o2d keymapper?You can download the latest firmware from here
i can't download the latest one in duck's site (02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.4.271.exe).
thanks in advance
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=100301
thank you!
thankdoes anyone have the latest o2d keymapper?You can download the latest firmware from here
i can't download the latest one in duck's site (02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.4.271.exe).
thanks in advance
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=100301
thank you!
No problem, if by any chance you have leds installed, could you please tell me how many brightness levels your lightsaver have? You can use led dn and up key to control the brightness. I have asked in this and gb thread, no one answered my question...
thankdoes anyone have the latest o2d keymapper?You can download the latest firmware from here
i can't download the latest one in duck's site (02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.4.271.exe).
thanks in advance
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=100301
thank you!
No problem, if by any chance you have leds installed, could you please tell me how many brightness levels your lightsaver have? You can use led dn and up key to control the brightness. I have asked in this and gb thread, no one answered my question...
i have tried to use this but wasn't able to change the level of the lights.
the led up/down only turns on/off the lights.
although, i might be reverting the older version of the keymapper as the arrow keys doesn't seem to save in the hex file using the latest keymapper.
even though i use the arrow cluster with the question marks, when i change to a different layer and go back to it, it becomes empty.
Moreit might be because the default fn key isn't like a regular fn key. it's actually a toggle to scroll through the layers.thankdoes anyone have the latest o2d keymapper?You can download the latest firmware from here
i can't download the latest one in duck's site (02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.4.271.exe).
thanks in advance
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=100301
thank you!
No problem, if by any chance you have leds installed, could you please tell me how many brightness levels your lightsaver have? You can use led dn and up key to control the brightness. I have asked in this and gb thread, no one answered my question...
i have tried to use this but wasn't able to change the level of the lights.
the led up/down only turns on/off the lights.
although, i might be reverting the older version of the keymapper as the arrow keys doesn't seem to save in the hex file using the latest keymapper.
even though i use the arrow cluster with the question marks, when i change to a different layer and go back to it, it becomes empty.
there are different layers and different fn layers on a lightsaver. this caught me really off guard at first.
[I explained this pretty poorly; but know that there IS most likely a reason for your confusion, and it's because it's not entirely intuitive.]
In other news. I have a beautiful Lightsaver V1 that I will picture and post for you guys tomorrow, but I REALLY want to trade it for a v2 in 1800 layout.
Also if someone could clarify that the PCB on v2 is indeed different.
Moreit might be because the default fn key isn't like a regular fn key. it's actually a toggle to scroll through the layers.thankdoes anyone have the latest o2d keymapper?You can download the latest firmware from here
i can't download the latest one in duck's site (02D_KeyMapper_Custom_v1.4.271.exe).
thanks in advance
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=100301
thank you!
No problem, if by any chance you have leds installed, could you please tell me how many brightness levels your lightsaver have? You can use led dn and up key to control the brightness. I have asked in this and gb thread, no one answered my question...
i have tried to use this but wasn't able to change the level of the lights.
the led up/down only turns on/off the lights.
although, i might be reverting the older version of the keymapper as the arrow keys doesn't seem to save in the hex file using the latest keymapper.
even though i use the arrow cluster with the question marks, when i change to a different layer and go back to it, it becomes empty.
there are different layers and different fn layers on a lightsaver. this caught me really off guard at first.
[I explained this pretty poorly; but know that there IS most likely a reason for your confusion, and it's because it's not entirely intuitive.]
In other news. I have a beautiful Lightsaver V1 that I will picture and post for you guys tomorrow, but I REALLY want to trade it for a v2 in 1800 layout.
Also if someone could clarify that the PCB on v2 is indeed different.
it's not in the fn key or layer.
it's when i'm trying to map the keys in the layers.
the arrow cluster shows as question marks in the interface instead of arrows.
for the v1, the exact 1800 layout is not possible.
a modification can be... (based on the last pic below):
FN key = left, CTRL key = down, LEFT key = right, MENU key = up
managed to finish the v2 with a mish-mash of keycaps :pShow Image(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SJwi3FQG03c/U-8gSfaxXoI/AAAAAAAAIeU/wBi4PK_5Hpo/s1600/DSC01600.jpg)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nMlTaHQKih8/U-8gSGGfuxI/AAAAAAAAIeY/4TTT1XdCPdU/s1600/DSC01602.jpg)Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z4mnCqOxJe8/U-8gSNk893I/AAAAAAAAIeQ/jREqsYyR470/s1600/DSC01618.jpg)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4PlYrdFKLd8/U-8gT3LocKI/AAAAAAAAIek/r7iV6ZdgCMo/s1600/DSC01639.jpg)
with the soon to be retired v1Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J3nSSEsOoAU/U-8gUUzv6mI/AAAAAAAAIeo/2wX-sBY0th0/s1600/DSC01646.jpg)
Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AmWbF1P.jpg?2)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3fm422X.jpg?3)
Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AmWbF1P.jpg?2)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3fm422X.jpg?3)
sweet! same layout and switch tops as mine.
Your \| key is upside down though.
Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AmWbF1P.jpg?2)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3fm422X.jpg?3)
\Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AmWbF1P.jpg?2)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3fm422X.jpg?3)
sweet! same layout and switch tops as mine.
Your \| key is upside down though.
\Pardon the potato!
Waitin on dolch and cyrillic gmk to get here -_-Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AmWbF1P.jpg?2)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3fm422X.jpg?3)
sweet! same layout and switch tops as mine.
Your \| key is upside down though.
Some choose to flip their space bars, i choose to flip my |\ key :p
Here is a shot of mine as it is currently. Running the latest 02d firmwareAwesome layout, Dorkvader. That's what I would have went with too! Love the stealth look!
keycaps are from a das 2 (blank cherry POM) and an imsto dvorak set. I am thinking of putting non blank keycaps over where common commands like copy paste, etc are so I don't get paranoid every time i press ctrl.Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3870/15280216011_6841df0129_o.jpg)
My normal KB adornments don't fit on this case :(
Dang, I was hoping that wouldn't be the case. How do I turn it off then (other than removing the LED completely)?
Thanks!
-Tad
Here is a shot of mine as it is currently. Running the latest 02d firmware
keycaps are from a das 2 (blank cherry POM) and an imsto dvorak set. I am thinking of putting non blank keycaps over where common commands like copy paste, etc are so I don't get paranoid every time i press ctrl.Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3870/15280216011_6841df0129_o.jpg)
My normal KB adornments don't fit on this case :(
Hey photo, can you throw a note in programming, that if your arrows or LED functions aren't working in the O2D mapper, [in windows at least] you can change your locale through control panel>region>administrative>change system locale... set it to korean and now the arrow keys and LED functions will all work propperly.
credit goes to stylingreymon.
Is it possible to have just one layer set?
For some reason, my LS will randomly change between layers.
Kinda sucks to have keys not work in the middle of raiding ><
Is it possible to have just one layer set?
For some reason, my LS will randomly change between layers.
Kinda sucks to have keys not work in the middle of raiding ><
Quite easily yeah, just make it so there are no layer or fn keys on your first layer.
I saw someone ask about MFN and not sure if they got an answer.
AFAIK MFN stands for multi-function.
If you hit this key and then hold it on the final press, you can access all the layers.
eg If you press the key and then quickly press it a second time, holding it on the second press, you will be on layer two.
If you quickly press it three times, holding it down on the third actuation, you will be on layer three.
It's exactly like a FN key only hitting it more than once lets you choose which layer to access.
@photo: np, I love these lightsavers. they are like my babies. dorkvader is currently swapping the guts from my v1 to a v2. :)
Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver - I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V3HTjru.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rSxjeDv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x91dr01.jpg)
Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver - I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V3HTjru.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rSxjeDv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x91dr01.jpg)
Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver - I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V3HTjru.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rSxjeDv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x91dr01.jpg)
Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver - I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods :)puttin the dolch to good use :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V3HTjru.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rSxjeDv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x91dr01.jpg)
Got my Dolch Set today and tried different combinations on my Lightsaver - I think I prefer the version without the CMY mods :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/V3HTjru.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rSxjeDv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x91dr01.jpg)
Lechner, that looks really good! Are those red LEDs?
Have you tried CMYK without the Enter? If you can please snap a photo :P I think it'll look great.
So my parents were transporting my lightsaver and somehow managed to scratch the case and dent one of the corners :(, the scratches aren't deep but aesthetically they bother me. Anyone know if sandblasting would fix this or will re anodizing correct it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i3HGGrL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/518azDl.jpg)
So my parents were transporting my lightsaver and somehow managed to scratch the case and dent one of the corners :(, the scratches aren't deep but aesthetically they bother me. Anyone know if sandblasting would fix this or will re anodizing correct it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i3HGGrL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/518azDl.jpg)
Re-anodizing will ruin the finish. Maybe you can look into how car enthusiasts remove scratches?
Re-anodizing will ruin the finish. Maybe you can look into how car enthusiasts remove scratches?Err what?
Re-anodizing will ruin the finish. Maybe you can look into how car enthusiasts remove scratches?Err what?
Reanodising will not change the surface finish, it'll just, well, reanodise it. It won't even remove the scratches.
Sandblasting + reanodising would work, but that would change the finish.
Anodizing is a process that converts aluminum to its oxide. The oxide is thicker than the aluminum that is consumed, which means the dimension of the anodized part changes. The amount of change will depend on the anodizing process conditions (temperature, current density, etc.) and alloy. Under nominal Type II anodizing conditions, the rule of thumb is 2/3 in 1/3 out; for example, a coating that is 0.6 mil thick will have consumed 0.4 mil of aluminum. Under hard coat (Type III) anodizing conditions the ratio changes to ½ in ½ out.I've seen reanodised cases and the actual surface finish remains. Same texture, just different colour anodising.
Yes the surface will change.
Anodizing is a process that converts aluminum to its oxide. The oxide is thicker than the aluminum that is consumed, which means the dimension of the anodized part changes. The amount of change will depend on the anodizing process conditions (temperature, current density, etc.) and alloy. Under nominal Type II anodizing conditions, the rule of thumb is 2/3 in 1/3 out; for example, a coating that is 0.6 mil thick will have consumed 0.4 mil of aluminum. Under hard coat (Type III) anodizing conditions the ratio changes to ½ in ½ out.I've seen reanodised cases and the actual surface finish remains. Same texture, just different colour anodising.
Yes the surface will change.
You can't oxidize an oxide.Yes, that's what I mean. The removal of the oxide layer with a chemical bath followed by anodisation.
What you call "re-anodization" is actually a process in which the anodized coat is removed, probably by abrasive sanding or some corrosive chemical bath to reveal the un-oxidized aluminum underneath, which can then be colored once again through oxidization (anodization). This will change the amount of actual non-oxidized aluminum that remains.
Sure the surface might feel smooth, but the actual amount of metal that will remain is less than what you started out with.
Yes, the surface will change after removing the original anodized layer prior to re-anodizing, however you need to remember that the original anodized layer is on the order of microns in thickness. A quick dip in a special acid bath will almost instantly remove that layer and will very slightly smooth out the surface. So if you had a grainy sandblasted finish before, the result will be very slightly smoother. It's really inconsequential when changing a color of a keyboard case. However in this case the issue is the scratches, which would be fixed only in color but not in texture; they will not fully vanish after reanodizing. To remove those, the scratched surface needs to be properly refinished prior to reanodizing. Anodizing will then simply convert the top couple dozen microns of surface into a hardened layer, but will keep the original texture of the surface that it was prior to anodizing. Hence if you just chemically remove the original anodized layer and then re-anodize it right away, you'll end up with a slightly smoother anodized surface with the scratches still visible as thin indents.
I believe you'd need to bead blast it to get a nice smooth finish. I think Photeqk sand then bead blasted his Tek-80.
maybe someone can answer this, i have a v2 on the way. is it possible to have the arrow cluster(up being the 1x to the right of short shift) with a plate? the pictures im seeing it doesn't look like the up and down would be alligned. could someone possible find/take a picture of the board in that spot?
maybe someone can answer this, i have a v2 on the way. is it possible to have the arrow cluster(up being the 1x to the right of short shift) with a plate? the pictures im seeing it doesn't look like the up and down would be alligned. could someone possible find/take a picture of the board in that spot?
The v2 plate supports a 1800 layout so you should be good. :thumb:
maybe someone can answer this, i have a v2 on the way. is it possible to have the arrow cluster(up being the 1x to the right of short shift) with a plate? the pictures im seeing it doesn't look like the up and down would be alligned. could someone possible find/take a picture of the board in that spot?
The v2 plate supports a 1800 layout so you should be good. :thumb:MoreShow Image(http://cfile23.uf.tistory.com/image/2539073652B2E93630BCDB)
is the picture that has me confused. doesn't look like down is far enough to the right and left looks too far away.
MoreShow Image(http://cfile23.uf.tistory.com/image/2539073652B2E93630BCDB)
is the picture that has me confused. doesn't look like down is far enough to the right and left looks too far away.
weird maybe v1?
http://duck0113.tistory.com/73
MoreShow Image(http://cfile23.uf.tistory.com/image/2539073652B2E93630BCDB)
is the picture that has me confused. doesn't look like down is far enough to the right and left looks too far away.
There were two plates in the GB. I think it was the newer plate that supported the 1800 layout. Here's what my plate looks like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/m1vI4y7.jpg)
weird maybe v1?
http://duck0113.tistory.com/73
Oh, I only said that because of the tabs. I guess the acrylic case needs them. Yeah the v1 doesn't support 1800, but the v2 does.
i have v1 and v2, both doesn't have the tabs.
must be a custom plate for the acrylic case
sharing my current lightsaber v2Show Image(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-478Yb9d9O8Y/VL3hMXl79uI/AAAAAAAAKg0/xuFzvtWnp2g/s1600/DSC06019.png)
i have v1 and v2, both doesn't have the tabs.
must be a custom plate for the acrylic case
sharing my current lightsaber v2Show Image(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-478Yb9d9O8Y/VL3hMXl79uI/AAAAAAAAKg0/xuFzvtWnp2g/s1600/DSC06019.png)
Very nice, looks great with dolch.
maybe someone can help, i am at a complete loss for how to do anything on this v2. i've read all the info in broken english and nothing wants to work. i cant even turn on the leds.
im trying to make a new layout and when i try and save, it keeps saying run-time error 76 path not found.
Finally, I got my new lightsaver v2 built after long time waiting for parts.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tNbgn4X.jpg?1)
Finally, I got my new lightsaver v2 built after long time waiting for parts.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tNbgn4X.jpg?1)
Looks great! I loathe the white legend keys [the enter could stay maybe] but the board looks great.
It's about 85% there, but I like how its going.believe it or not when I first saw these I wasn't that jazzed with them. I then Got a chance to type on one and play with it in person. I changed my mind mighty freaking quick. I loved the heft of it the layout everything 8) this is amazing man haha I am so happy for you. Good luck with your non registering key (I am sure you will figure it out 8) ) unfortunately I have never lubed more then A 60% but even then I was at it for hours. (It helps to have switch tools of some sort and a plate to use as a lubing station) it is worth it totally 8)
LSv1 (Ordered from Originative)
MX Clears
Clear Tops
White Stickered
SPRiT 62g - 78g Spacebar
Krytox Thick on switches, Lithium on stabs
SIP Sockets with white and UV LEDS ( UV are super dim, will probably go a different direction with color)
Purple SMD LEDs
No on told me how long it takes to lube and sticker a set of switches, ended up being a 3 days project, but most of my friends were out of town for the 4th and my girlfriend worked all weekend, so it was just me, a cue tip and a bottle of lube all weekend. ;)
Heres where I am at the moment, waiting on a keyset to come in, its unoriginal (DSA Dulch), but with the layout I want, and its hard to come by a key set with a 1u + and 0. I am sure I will do a few different key sets in the life of this board.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry I didn't take more pictures, I just have my phone so I did the best I could.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Was thinking about using my JTK purple set on it, but it doesn't have the 0 and + I need :/ And I also want to move the R/Shift around so I can use a short shift and a 1u in that slot.
One question for the custom keyboard veterans, any ideas why my R/Shift isn't working? I have checked polarity on the switch, reflowed the soldier joints, and reprogrammed both of the sockets in that spot and I still cannot get anything out of it. The reactive LEDs work when it is pressed, but the keychecker in the keymapping software is showing nothing.
Thanks!
It's about 85% there, but I like how its going.
LSv1 (Ordered from Originative)
MX Clears
Clear Tops
White Stickered
SPRiT 62g - 78g Spacebar
Krytox Thick on switches, Lithium on stabs
SIP Sockets with white and UV LEDS ( UV are super dim, will probably go a different direction with color)
Purple SMD LEDs
No on told me how long it takes to lube and sticker a set of switches, ended up being a 3 days project, but most of my friends were out of town for the 4th and my girlfriend worked all weekend, so it was just me, a cue tip and a bottle of lube all weekend. ;)
Heres where I am at the moment, waiting on a keyset to come in, its unoriginal (DSA Dulch), but with the layout I want, and its hard to come by a key set with a 1u + and 0. I am sure I will do a few different key sets in the life of this board.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry I didn't take more pictures, I just have my phone so I did the best I could.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Was thinking about using my JTK purple set on it, but it doesn't have the 0 and + I need :/ And I also want to move the R/Shift around so I can use a short shift and a 1u in that slot.
One question for the custom keyboard veterans, any ideas why my R/Shift isn't working? I have checked polarity on the switch, reflowed the soldier joints, and reprogrammed both of the sockets in that spot and I still cannot get anything out of it. The reactive LEDs work when it is pressed, but the keychecker in the keymapping software is showing nothing.
Thanks!
This happened with my ~ key when I had a lightsaver. I tried changing system language to korean, loaded up the lightsaver v1.9a hex file, and loaded up the 02D lightsaver hex file. One of those or going back in a combination of these eventually got it to worked. It only happened once but it took a couple of flashes to get it working. Give it a try.
This happened with my ~ key when I had a lightsaver. I tried changing system language to korean, loaded up the lightsaver v1.9a hex file, and loaded up the 02D lightsaver hex file. One of those or going back in a combination of these eventually got it to worked. It only happened once but it took a couple of flashes to get it working. Give it a try.
I think that is what fixed my issue, I desoldiered the R/Shift and resoldiered 2 switches in that spot, and it still didn't work, but when I brought up keymapper it was now showing that there was nothing assigned to those 2 keys, so I assigned them and now they work fine! Thanks!
Hey guys ive made a post on keyboards, but seems like no one is biting so i figured i would also post here.. hopefully someone has a better idea. I've been playing around with the 02d tool and its got a ton of functionality and i think im starting to figure it out but im still a bit confused about how some things works.
my main issue is that i dont understnad why my num pad numbers dont work. 0. 123 456 789 dont get mapped correctly. the arrow keys dont stick as well.
everything else pretty much seems to be working accoringly.. but i have no way of telling because i cant get the command key to work properly.
i press the C/M key and type in LLB or LLN and hit enter. nothing happens. not sure if im doing it right but there is no instructions that would imply im not doing it right.
is anyone willing to share some insight?
i was doing some research and found these awesome sites...
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=370119
http://blog.naver.com/PostList.nhn?blogId=dudgnl2&from=postList&categoryNo=15
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&prev=_dd&u=http%3A%2F%2Fduck0113.tistory.com%2F84
after trying various combinations of keys with the vague guidance of the ingrish translate from goodle.
i managed to get 02d installed and flip working to work but i was trying to get restore mode to work so i can see whats exactly mapped... (goes back to using the C/M key) but its very unclear as to what i need to do.
any how any help would be much appreciated. dont hesitate to PM me. and thanks in advance!
Here she is in all her glory, I like the DSA profile so far, and I am OK with Dulch, but I am looking to try an SA sculpted set here soonish.
(Attachment Link)
I have an SA Retro keycap order that I posted in the group buy thread. I specifically bought that set to use on my LSv1 when I had it so that's why there's a bunch of extra keys in the order. The total is quite a bit but I would 100% say it's worth it for the lightsaver.
I have an SA Retro keycap order that I posted in the group buy thread. I specifically bought that set to use on my LSv1 when I had it so that's why there's a bunch of extra keys in the order. The total is quite a bit but I would 100% say it's worth it for the lightsaver.
Yea, I considered it when the GB was on CtrlAlt, but I am not crazy about brown :/
Hey guys ive made a post on keyboards, but seems like no one is biting so i figured i would also post here.. hopefully someone has a better idea. I've been playing around with the 02d tool and its got a ton of functionality and i think im starting to figure it out but im still a bit confused about how some things works.
my main issue is that i dont understnad why my num pad numbers dont work. 0. 123 456 789 dont get mapped correctly. the arrow keys dont stick as well.
everything else pretty much seems to be working accoringly.. but i have no way of telling because i cant get the command key to work properly.
i press the C/M key and type in LLB or LLN and hit enter. nothing happens. not sure if im doing it right but there is no instructions that would imply im not doing it right.
is anyone willing to share some insight?
i was doing some research and found these awesome sites...
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=370119
http://blog.naver.com/PostList.nhn?blogId=dudgnl2&from=postList&categoryNo=15
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&prev=_dd&u=http%3A%2F%2Fduck0113.tistory.com%2F84
after trying various combinations of keys with the vague guidance of the ingrish translate from goodle.
i managed to get 02d installed and flip working to work but i was trying to get restore mode to work so i can see whats exactly mapped... (goes back to using the C/M key) but its very unclear as to what i need to do.
any how any help would be much appreciated. dont hesitate to PM me. and thanks in advance!
Have you changed your system language to korean? When my arrow mapping wouldn't stick I had to do that.Here she is in all her glory, I like the DSA profile so far, and I am OK with Dulch, but I am looking to try an SA sculpted set here soonish.
(Attachment Link)
I have an SA Retro keycap order that I posted in the group buy thread. I specifically bought that set to use on my LSv1 when I had it so that's why there's a bunch of extra keys in the order. The total is quite a bit but I would 100% say it's worth it for the lightsaver.
Put GMK Red Alert on my Lightsaver V2Very beautiful dude :thumb: :thumb:
BeforeShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/x91dr01.jpg)
AfterShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/BGna1Kf.jpg)
Someone has asked me regarding compatibility with Apple computers, and I actually have no idea as I only have Windows/Linux machines at home and can't test myself. Anyone using a Lightsaver (or other recent Duck keyboards) on a Mac desktop/laptop and have any compatibility issues? I'm guessing it should be okay.
Someone has asked me regarding compatibility with Apple computers, and I actually have no idea as I only have Windows/Linux machines at home and can't test myself. Anyone using a Lightsaver (or other recent Duck keyboards) on a Mac desktop/laptop and have any compatibility issues? I'm guessing it should be okay.
Ill put a reminder to try tomorrow when I have my laptop with me at work. Unless someone else answers sooner than that.
Someone has asked me regarding compatibility with Apple computers, and I actually have no idea as I only have Windows/Linux machines at home and can't test myself. Anyone using a Lightsaver (or other recent Duck keyboards) on a Mac desktop/laptop and have any compatibility issues? I'm guessing it should be okay.
Ill put a reminder to try tomorrow when I have my laptop with me at work. Unless someone else answers sooner than that.
Thanks very much for the offer! That would be great! If you could check that the numpad and layers work fine on an OS-X machine, that would be very useful.
Excellent, thank you so much for testing the compatibility.
Glad I could help :D
Glad I could help :D
I actually have another question, if you'll indulge me. On your Mac, can you turn the Num Lock on and off so that that former position types numbers and the latter has arrow keys at 2-4-6-8?
Glad I could help :D
I actually have another question, if you'll indulge me. On your Mac, can you turn the Num Lock on and off so that that former position types numbers and the latter has arrow keys at 2-4-6-8?
Posting in this thread as it seems most of the troubleshooting has happened here.
I cannot program this keyboard. I've got the newest version of O2D keymapper (1.7.56), and I've gotten FLIP installed, but everytime I try to upload firmware I always get a "DFU Programmer is not found" error. I've downloaded DFU Programmer and extracted it, and it still does not work.
I've downloaded the Korean IME for 8.1, and even when I've switche to that before opening the keymapper, it still won't upload.
Posting in this thread as it seems most of the troubleshooting has happened here.
I cannot program this keyboard. I've got the newest version of O2D keymapper (1.7.56), and I've gotten FLIP installed, but everytime I try to upload firmware I always get a "DFU Programmer is not found" error. I've downloaded DFU Programmer and extracted it, and it still does not work.
I've downloaded the Korean IME for 8.1, and even when I've switche to that before opening the keymapper, it still won't upload.
Did you install the Atmel USB drivers? See this basic summary (but ignore the bit about magnets, that's for a different controller. Plug in your keyboard while holding the FLIP key as noted on the diagram in the OP and look at the Device Manager list):
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35065.msg949091#msg949091
The process for updating the firmware is the same as for a KMAC, listed here (steps 8-14):
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0
To clarify, the keymapper software only creates/modifies and saves a new keymap HEX file. It does not upload the HEX file to the keyboard on its own--for that you need to use FLIP and load the HEX file you've saved.
i have v1 and v2, both doesn't have the tabs.
must be a custom plate for the acrylic case
sharing my current lightsaber v2Show Image(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-478Yb9d9O8Y/VL3hMXl79uI/AAAAAAAAKg0/xuFzvtWnp2g/s1600/DSC06019.png)
I assemble mine two months ago after letting it collect dust for almost a year.
Build Log: http://imgur.com/a/pfbC0Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/S47Bfbt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3zS08cQ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8KudJzb.jpg)
JT Purple-White: http://imgur.com/a/KyNtHShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/RAYgy2l.jpg)
Yup, Red Scarf case :-[
Nice Red Scarf :confused:
Hello all you Lightsaver lovers....
I have finally got my first lightsaver, and I think it has some default programming going on... I am not sure if this is the correct thread, if it isn't please could you point me to the correct one and I'll be on my way :)
I've linked to this picture for key reference (source: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56877.msg1462227#msg1462227):Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14952230998_81d14cf534_o.jpg)
So all the keys seem to work, the problem is, the "pause" key (F13) and Scroll Lock (F15) keys seem to not show up on the key tester (Aqua). I am not sure if this is because these keys have not been programmed yet, and therefore not showing? Is this normal, I haven't even tried programming the board... the firmware looks scary... does anyone have the file to map the keys so they are like the above image?
Thanks so much, I am a n00b! :-[
Hello all you Lightsaver lovers....
I have finally got my first lightsaver, and I think it has some default programming going on... I am not sure if this is the correct thread, if it isn't please could you point me to the correct one and I'll be on my way :)
I've linked to this picture for key reference (source: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56877.msg1462227#msg1462227):Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14952230998_81d14cf534_o.jpg)
So all the keys seem to work, the problem is, the "pause" key (F13) and Scroll Lock (F15) keys seem to not show up on the key tester (Aqua). I am not sure if this is because these keys have not been programmed yet, and therefore not showing? Is this normal, I haven't even tried programming the board... the firmware looks scary... does anyone have the file to map the keys so they are like the above image?
Thanks so much, I am a n00b! :-[
Use O2D's
http://duck0113.tistory.com/84
Hello all you Lightsaver lovers....
I have finally got my first lightsaver, and I think it has some default programming going on... I am not sure if this is the correct thread, if it isn't please could you point me to the correct one and I'll be on my way :)
I've linked to this picture for key reference (source: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56877.msg1462227#msg1462227):Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14952230998_81d14cf534_o.jpg)
So all the keys seem to work, the problem is, the "pause" key (F13) and Scroll Lock (F15) keys seem to not show up on the key tester (Aqua). I am not sure if this is because these keys have not been programmed yet, and therefore not showing? Is this normal, I haven't even tried programming the board... the firmware looks scary... does anyone have the file to map the keys so they are like the above image?
Thanks so much, I am a n00b! :-[
Hello all you Lightsaver lovers....
I have finally got my first lightsaver, and I think it has some default programming going on... I am not sure if this is the correct thread, if it isn't please could you point me to the correct one and I'll be on my way :)
I've linked to this picture for key reference (source: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56877.msg1462227#msg1462227):Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14952230998_81d14cf534_o.jpg)
So all the keys seem to work, the problem is, the "pause" key (F13) and Scroll Lock (F15) keys seem to not show up on the key tester (Aqua). I am not sure if this is because these keys have not been programmed yet, and therefore not showing? Is this normal, I haven't even tried programming the board... the firmware looks scary... does anyone have the file to map the keys so they are like the above image?
Thanks so much, I am a n00b! :-[
That's a very nice arrow cluster and WASD you have there, not to mention the Esc :D
Does the lightsaver pcb itself have LEDs or just LED support ( for the bottom LEDs)
Does the lightsaver pcb itself have LEDs or just LED support ( for the bottom LEDs)
The SMD LEDs are presoldered.
Project Name: Qui-Duck Jinnperfect matching :eek: :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iVkDCZs.jpg)
Project Name: Qui-Duck JinnShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/iVkDCZs.jpg)
Project Name: Qui-Duck JinnShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/iVkDCZs.jpg)
thanks:)Project Name: Qui-Duck Jinnperfect matching :eek: :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iVkDCZs.jpg)
perfect
Light green LEDs?
Very nice indeed!
Light green LEDs?
Very nice indeed!
Thanks! I've always wanted a green lightsaber
Project Name: Qui-Duck JinnShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/iVkDCZs.jpg)
If anyone happened to post more pictures of their lightsaver, I would not mind.. :))
Project Name: Qui-Duck JinnShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/iVkDCZs.jpg)
Wow. That is so clean!
Where'd you get those beautiful LEDs ;-;
If anyone happened to post more pictures of their lightsaver, I would not mind.. :))
Picture from 2014 when I still had my Lightsaver V1
(Attachment Link)
Project Name: Qui-Duck JinnShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/iVkDCZs.jpg)
Wow. That is so clean!
Where'd you get those beautiful LEDs ;-;
Um seriously, where can i get some "lime green" LEDs?! That looks amazing.
Finally got my dream board (LSv1)!
It got in from Korea about a month ago, and I recently finished converting it from MX Whites to Gateron Clears. Unfortunately, during resoldering, a couple traces got lifted (LED traces), does anyone know if its possible to jump these or otherwise make those LEDs functional? I installed SIP sockets in every switch before realizing that some traces were lifted, so currently only 3 of my LEDs are actually soldered -_-
Anyway, here's a picture, forgive the messy desk, I haven't gotten the chance to clean it recently and I spend most of my time here.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nkv9rC7.jpg)
Really regretting selling my good camera...
Finally got my dream board (LSv1)!
It got in from Korea about a month ago, and I recently finished converting it from MX Whites to Gateron Clears. Unfortunately, during resoldering, a couple traces got lifted (LED traces), does anyone know if its possible to jump these or otherwise make those LEDs functional? I installed SIP sockets in every switch before realizing that some traces were lifted, so currently only 3 of my LEDs are actually soldered -_-
Anyway, here's a picture, forgive the messy desk, I haven't gotten the chance to clean it recently and I spend most of my time here.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nkv9rC7.jpg)
Really regretting selling my good camera...
You can easily fix those by jumping the lifted trace with a wire.
Apologies for the double post, but does anyone know the best way to shave LEDs? Also, is there a way to change which LED toggles with numlock?
Apologies for the double post, but does anyone know the best way to shave LEDs? Also, is there a way to change which LED toggles with numlock?
Shave as in take off some of the excess height? Are you using 2x3x4mm?
I shaved portions off the top of my 2x3x4's to create an angle. This eliminated the rubbing interference between the LED and keycap underside. The technique I used was angling the led at 45 or so degrees and dragging it some 320 grit sandpaper.
In hindsight it would have been easier to use 1.8mm but I couldn't find any in my desired color, sky blue.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MdNCj9M.jpg)
A few snaps of mine in various set upsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/MdNCj9M.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nihxLwK.jpg)
Double posting ^-^
Dressed my lightsaver up in some fancy DCS a while ago. I'm changing the layout and caps so will update with more pics soonShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/OcwpnRG.jpg)
I'd like to see some v3 pictures in here! :)
Double posting ^-^
Dressed my lightsaver up in some fancy DCS a while ago. I'm changing the layout and caps so will update with more pics soonShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/OcwpnRG.jpg)
I'd like to see some v3 pictures in here! :)
Looks great man!
My poor LSv3 has been in a drawer ready to solder with all the switches in, I really need to finish it and get some pics up.
A few snaps of mine in various set upsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/MdNCj9M.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nihxLwK.jpg)
I really think DSA looks so good on this board. Heres my favorite picture of my Lightsaver. Dat ass is fatttt ;DShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/BFYsq4O.jpg)
A few snaps of mine in various set upsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/MdNCj9M.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nihxLwK.jpg)
I really think DSA looks so good on this board. Heres my favorite picture of my Lightsaver. Dat ass is fatttt ;DShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/BFYsq4O.jpg)
LSv1 is my favorite for that huge monolithic rear end :D
A few snaps of mine in various set upsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/MdNCj9M.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nihxLwK.jpg)
I really think DSA looks so good on this board. Heres my favorite picture of my Lightsaver. Dat ass is fatttt ;DShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/BFYsq4O.jpg)
LSv1 is my favorite for that huge monolithic rear end :D
That's much better put :))
I was thinking of saying, "20" sides make 20" eyes"
But yes, its so simple and aggressive - I love it!