[GB] The Smallfry Keyboard Kit (Closed for Orders, 97% shipped. SEE LAST POSTS)

[tbc]

DONE ORDERING!

Well, now all I need to do is to wait for my 1st all-golden keyboard....

doesn't count until you get mx golds

[fatchoi]

just go on the site and order.  it'll show you the prices

Thanks. Just ordered. I'm hoping to buy the plate mounted stab and Teensy as well, to save some shipping cost.

[mkawa]

i'm currently working on sourcing costar stabilizers. JD and i previously talked about teensies, and will probably revisit it on tuesday. i should be able to put a listing up at that point. unfortunately, i may go a bit dark on this for a little while. i am out of town until tuesday. the cutters will start work on their end of production around mid or late-week, and we will have to coordinate a few things for the day or so i'm in town to make sure our design can be cut using the method we formulated. the end of week is keycon, so while you'll be seeing plenty of me on the forum and the livestream, i'll be busy with that.

[mkawa]

here is the current list of order numbers who have specified a color preference: http://tinyurl.com/pkwpspn

if you don't see your order number there and you have a preference that is NOT raw titanium, please fill out the form.

unfortunately, this isn't a projection of the response spreadsheet, so it won't update as responses come in. however, i will be syncing it fairly often.

[Ceedog]

if you don't see your order number there and you have a preference that is NOT raw titanium, please fill out the form.
.

So is filling this out like placing an order, or just a representation of your opinion?

[mkawa]

1) place an order for at least one smallfry kit here

http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/frontpage/products/jd40-jdcarpe-s-40-keyboard-kit-sorbothane-titanium-all-profits-go-to-the-nathan-j-walters-foundation-rip-smallfry

2) fill out this form to specify your preferences for the color of _your_ kit

http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy

[tbc]

do like plate mounted cherry stabs not exist?

any chance of sourcing some of those too?

[Ceedog]

Well I already ordered, I'm just wondering if I should vote for what I want or what I'll get. I.E., I want Titan Gray, but I'm not sure it's worth $90 to me.

[fatchoi]

i'm currently working on sourcing costar stabilizers. JD and i previously talked about teensies, and will probably revisit it on tuesday. i should be able to put a listing up at that point. unfortunately, i may go a bit dark on this for a little while. i am out of town until tuesday. the cutters will start work on their end of production around mid or late-week, and we will have to coordinate a few things for the day or so i'm in town to make sure our design can be cut using the method we formulated. the end of week is keycon, so while you'll be seeing plenty of me on the forum and the livestream, i'll be busy with that.

Great to hear. Coz it's often difficult to source one stab, without sourcing a whole set of 5 or 7.
Btw, I saw a few bronze people here. I opt for bronze too

[tbc]

um...i actually entered twice.

originally raw, but changed my mind to gold.

mind is still on gold

[Ceedog]

If you don't want to plug the USB cable directly into the Teensy, which is located on the underside of the PCB under the spacebar, then yes, you need that part. You need to solder four wires to it (don't know why they call it surface mount), and solder those into four holes with solder pads in that vicinity on the PCB. Traces run from there to the solder points for the through hole USB receptacle on the rear edge of the PCB.

None of the switches have traces for LED backlighting, except for the "caps lock" switch location. The holes next to the LED holes have the traces for the indicator LED, so if you want a Caps Lock indicator, you need to bridge the LED solder points to the adjacent pads.
[/quote]

Thanks for clearing the USB part up; just ordered those connectors. I'm still confused about the thing near the caps lock key, specifically  this component. What is it, do I need it, and where can I buy it?

[jdcarpe]

Thanks for clearing the USB part up; just ordered those connectors. I'm still confused about the thing near the caps lock key, specifically  this

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component. What is it, do I need it, and where can I buy it?

Ah, that's a resistor for the LED. You can get one at Radio Shack. :)

Or from Mouser, Digi-Key, etc. I typically use a 300-ohm 1/4-watt carbon film resistor there.

[mkawa]

Well I already ordered, I'm just wondering if I should vote for what I want or what I'll get. I.E., I want Titan Gray, but I'm not sure it's worth $90 to me.

anodizing will not cost anything more. it's an option that is covered by your purchase costs. there is an issue with some colors not meeting MOQ, but titan gray is way way over the MOQ, so no worries there. just fill out the form and specify titan gray and you're good to go!

[fatchoi]

Btw, for screw and spacer, is silver color the only choice? I imagine bronze plus black screws and spacer would look awesome. (If only bronze meets MOQ,...)

[mkawa]

i'll probably include stainless and black oxide fastener and spacer sets with all kits. fasteners and spacers are inexpensive, so it's no problem to include both options.

brass and bronze is also an option, but i have to make sure i can get 100 packs of those.

[mkawa]

by the way, unless there's a lot of preference in another direction, i'm going to go with socket head cap screws. imo they look the best.

[Zeal]

by the way, unless there's a lot of preference in another direction, i'm going to go with socket head cap screws. imo they look the best.

This type:


or flush against the plate type?


I personally prefer flush screws, as it makes it easier to clean the case.

[mashby]

+1 for flush

[Melvang]

The problem with going flush via countersunk socket head cap screws is you need to countersink or dimple the plate.  The tooling and machine time to do this in titanium would get crazy expensive pretty quick.  I don't disagree with the easier cleaning or better looks but it is an extra step required to work correctly, that would add significantly to the cost.  My vote is for standard socket head cap screws.

[mkawa]

i'm not going to even try to countersink 160 plates. no way no how. if you want to countersink it yourself and go flush, be my guest, but the possibility of ruining a whole lot of plates is not worth the mm you gain in clearance.

[SL89]

When does this end? I might have to take this up and grab the Soldering kit as well.

[mkawa]

there are 20 units left in the manufacturing batch. once are all sold, that's it.

[fatchoi]

by the way, unless there's a lot of preference in another direction, i'm going to go with socket head cap screws. imo they look the best.

That's cool. Black screw 

Do you guys think + screw or hex screw matters?
Fall in love for hex recently, just think it looks better over - or +. Anyway, color's the first priority. 

[dashing_girlboy]

Wait, is the male end necessary for connecting the Teensy to the PCB? And is it really surface mount? Also, what's the thing (resistor? diode?) that goes next to the caps lock key? It looks significantly different than the other diodes.

If you don't want to plug the USB cable directly into the Teensy, which is located on the underside of the PCB under the spacebar, then yes, you need that part. You need to solder four wires to it (don't know why they call it surface mount), and solder those into four holes with solder pads in that vicinity on the PCB. Traces run from there to the solder points for the through hole USB receptacle on the rear edge of the PCB.

None of the switches have traces for LED backlighting, except for the "caps lock" switch location. The holes next to the LED holes have the traces for the indicator LED, so if you want a Caps Lock indicator, you need to bridge the LED solder points to the adjacent pads.

Regarding the USB part, I did a search and realised that the pins are in reverse orientation for Mini-USB and Micro-USB. So theoretically it will be possible to use http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1JMK0O and solder them in reverse orientation to the four holes and solder a Micro-USB at the USB receptacle at the rear end?

IMO, microUSB are easier to come by, and for the convenience sake, some people might want to have it as a choice. What do you guys think? (:

[jdcarpe]

IMO, microUSB are easier to come by, and for the convenience sake, some people might want to have it as a choice. What do you guys think? (:

Maybe if you can find a Micro-B receptacle with the same footprint as the through hole Mini-B receptacle I specified.

[Zeal]

hmm, if countersunk screws aren't possible, then what about something like this? Small dimple for the screws + almost flush to the plate (Keeping the screw as low profile as possible, so cleaning the plate is still doable)
Also+1 to hex screws.

I'm not quite sure what the special names for these are...

+


Have the second picture type screws on the top, and hide the hex screws on the bottom?

[tbc]

voting for the second type

[Melvang]

hmm, if countersunk screws aren't possible, then what about something like this? Small dimple for the screws + almost flush to the plate (Keeping the screw as low profile as possible, so cleaning the plate is still doable)
Also+1 to hex screws.

I'm not quite sure what the special names for these are...

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+

Show Image

Have the second picture type screws on the top, and hide the hex screws on the bottom?

Dimpling requires special tooling which again will add to the cost.  All the tooling that I have personally seen for doing dimpling is all done by hand.  Now imagine doing that to 160 plates with 6 holes a plate.  No thanks.

[Zeal]

Oh, I didn't mean dimpling the plate to lower the profile of the heads. I was referring to the little round screws as dimples showing on the plate, and screwing it tight from beneath.
Unless I'm mistaken, to use those screws properly, wouldn't it only require 6 holes drilled at the correct size? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[fatchoi]

hmm, if countersunk screws aren't possible, then what about something like this? Small dimple for the screws + almost flush to the plate (Keeping the screw as low profile as possible, so cleaning the plate is still doable)
Also+1 to hex screws.

I'm not quite sure what the special names for these are...

Show Image

+

Show Image

Have the second picture type screws on the top, and hide the hex screws on the bottom?

I've just found a page which we might refer to ;P
http://steampunk.wonderhowto.com/how-to/nuts-and-bolts-steampunk-using-right-screws-for-job-0143074/

I guess hex might be easier to clean as the hole is larger


I agree with you that we might have the "d" style. Though IMO "a" style looks cool too. Just don't like rounded screws, lol.

[tbc]

truss +1

[Ceedog]

Pan +1.

[docwlad]

Oh man... Well, I wasn't planning on spending money this fine Sunday morning. And then I came across this thread. Just put in my order for the Smallfry Kit! And I have no experience whatsoever with soldering or electronics. This is gonna be interesting! 

Edit/Request: I saw earlier in the thread that a few people were offering assembly for this keyboard. Is there anybody still willing to do that? I'd be happy to pay for it... and it'd save me from possibly ruining such an awesome kit.

[docwlad]

I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.

note that margo is in the EU

I will offer the same in the US.  Located fairly central in Iowa.  I would like to note this would just be the physical assembly.  I don't have enough experience in the software side to feel comfortable doing firmware.

This offer still open? I'd love to take you up on it.

[dorkvader]

I just used countersink screws in normal holes on my metaldox, and it worked out really well. They stick up a bit but it's not bad. Those screws ming likes are nice, but they stick up a lot off the plate: not for everyone.

I think panhead / domehead look nice.

ofcourse since I still haven't ordered one I guess I can't vote.

You can see them in my photo set for the metaldox here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
especially https://flic.kr/p/nBAVEd

[fatchoi]

I just used countersink screws in normal holes on my metaldox, and it worked out really well. They stick up a bit but it's not bad. Those screws ming likes are nice, but they stick up a lot off the plate: not for everyone.

I think panhead / domehead look nice.

ofcourse since I still haven't ordered one I guess I can't vote.

You can see them in my photo set for the metaldox here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
especially https://flic.kr/p/nBAVEd

Thanks for the pic. Screws facing upward, hm... I prefer the other way round, so a countersink screw doesn't work quite well. "pan" is my favorite, after looking at different pics further.

[mkawa]

trusses are generally too wide

here are two options that look pretty reasonable:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9i5k

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9ijt

otherwise i would lean toward full size cap head or regular old pan-head machine screws.

[Zeal]

trusses are generally too wide

here are two options that look pretty reasonable:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9i5k

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9ijt

otherwise i would lean toward full size cap head or regular old pan-head machine screws.

Is it me or do both those link to a general page full of diff screws?

[GSimon]

Is it me or do both those link to a general page full of diff screws?

Not just you. What's interesting too if if you keep hitting Enter on the address bar the URL changes each refresh.

[dorkvader]

they have the worst website.

[mkawa]

yah, sorry about that. they were supposed to be low profile cap head and low profile button heads.

small hex head is actually a good option too.

anyway, just a heads up. there are maybe 17? units left in this batch, and orders are starting to pick up again. if you are on the fence, i'd suggest getting off of it mighty quick

[bboyer]

Picked up a bronze/bronze 

[nuclearsandwich]

mkawa just tell me that Seafoam green made the cut.

[fatchoi]

Picked up a bronze/bronze 

Bronze Bronze yeah. I'm imagining elegant it would look with black screw.

Btw, has bronze met the moq?

[SL89]

When will the 'Learn to Solder' Kit be back in stock? I want to get a SmallFry with the Kit (and the backup pcb) and put it together myself.

[mkawa]

tomorrow! i'm revising it to include the elenco soldering practice kit, and i have a new style of solder spool. i will be showing all this stuff off tomorrow on the keycon live stream. i will also be selling kits (and building them!) live at the con.

[zeroni13]

When do you think this will be shipped?

[mkawa]

long pole will be sorbothane. lead time from order is 4 weeks + ship. minimum 5 weeks from now.

[SL89]

crossing my fingers that they are still in stock next time i get paid. goddamn bi-weekly checks

[mkawa]

there are 15 left, and i've been getting appx an order every other day, so you should be good

next step is getting the titan cut to spec by the way. everything depends on this, so JD and i will be checking this very closely.