AIKON Controller interest check

[SmallFry]

I will at some point in the future be putting together an AIKON PCB, just like what the Koreans had at OTD. I was wondering how many people would like etc so I know how to price things out. Send me a PM with how many you would be down for ordering.

[Urglifast]

holy cow, that thing's cool.  i would definitely be interested in at least one.

[Glockateer]

How much would it be?

[Index]

If you put together the pcb matrix so it can be programmed through USB and so I can include it into the pcb I am designing for m project keyboard, then yes.

[sherryton]

I think I am interested in one of these!

[alaricljs]

I do not want to upset the OP or anyone else, but a group buy over on deskthority for a complete 'programmable' KB controller is being worked up.  'programmable' meaning it's already a KB controller w/ firmware but can be programmed as to what keys send what keycodes. w/ layers and stuff.

Aikon is also cool... and it's neat to build your solder your own stuff up.  The other one looks pretty damned cool too tho.

[SmallFry]

The AIKON controller would be like the one on OTD. It would be just a recreated circuit board that was not sold in the U.S. (to my knowledge). I do not have a price at the current time as I havent laid out the board, ordered any pcbs, parts, etc. I will order them if there is sufficient interest in this.

[wcass]

i considered the Aikon for a good while. the user interface is great making it easy to program, but i can't solder to save my life. and my keyboard of choice is a model M so support for FFC connecters would be needed.

i'm looking at using a Teensy++ now with hasu's code. there is NO user interface for building the firmware for this (yet) but it requires no soldering and the format will fit all of my different configuration needs. i'm pretty sure the Aikon can't do the 20 x 8 matrix for my 122 key. hasu has also added a lot of features (including wireless) that aren't available with the Aikon.

i'm a lousy programmer, but am going to try to build a graphic user interface "wizard" for hasu's code. wish me luck.

here's a picture of my hardware prototype:
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 28067[/ATTACH]

[tr4656]

It would depend on the price of this as well.

[Hak Foo]

I'd love one; I have a Focus 9000 begging for it.  I could see paying like USD20 for one.

[SmallFry]

Board design has begun. It will be as close to the OTD board as possible. I will complete it asap. It may be a month plus though between school, sports etc

[SmallFry]

Wcass: The AIKON can support up to 144 keys I believe. Either way "my" AIKON PCB /should/ be done by the end of the month. Hopefully have a few prototype boards made so I can catch any bugs/routing problems etc. Then go full steam ahead, if there is interest, for making final design boards. Wish me luck:)

P.S. Good luck Wcass:biggrin:

[wcass]

Thanks, SmallFry.

As i said, i did some research on it and this is what i could figure out without actually seeing/touching one.

The Aikon has 26 pins that can be used for any combination of sense and signal lines - the default is 18x8 but it could be configured for 13x13 for 169 max keys. any matrix without diodes will have big holes in them to reduce ghosting. you will commonly find Alt, Ctrl, and Shift on low populated column/rows. To program this controller you don't have to know the matrix, but you do need Windows and a mouse.
 

• run the software,
• you hit a key,
• it senses what row/column you pressed,
• use your mouse to assign a value to that matrix position/key.
• repeat steps 2-4 for rest of keys

you have the default layer, a numlock layer, and one function layer - so max 3 layers. Once programed, you can use it with any computer regardless of OS without loss of key functions. i'm not sure if it supports media and power management keys, and i think you can not simulate multiple key-presses (macros).  But i do think this has the best UI of any "keyboard enthusiast" controller.

if anyone knows better on these things, please say so.

Good Luck.

[Lanx]

do we have a "guesstimate" of the price on this? teensy is like 16-20ish, but for a total programming guy that got a D in C is the aikon like keyboard controller for dummies please?

[alaricljs]

The aikon is definitely the lowest 'nerd' requirement KB controller.  You follow some basic steps to get the FW on the controller and then all management of the KB is done via their pretty GUI.

[litster]

Anyone tried using an AIKON on an old Wyse terminal keyboard?  I am thinking I could mod one into a tenkeyless keyboard at the same time converting it into USB.

[Lanx]

if it's set it and forget it, i'm in.

[SmallFry]

Lanx: You will have to find what the matrix of your keyboard, solder a little (seems that you got that down with your projects :grin:) and then just use the GUI.
Lister: The WYSE boards would be fine as long as you can find the matrix of it.

[litster]

Lister: The WYSE boards would be fine as long as you can find the matrix of it.

Any suggestion on how I could find the matrix of it?

[alaricljs]

sixty's matrix tutorial

[Lanx]

i'm sure it's not a big deal to just use any matrix right? (my g15 is fritz'in on me... by i did do all that soldering of connections)

[alaricljs]

Honestly with the Aikon software you don't need to *know* the matrix.  You just need to know what pins are rows and which are columns.   Press the key and then use the mouse to tell the software what you want that key to do.

[litster]

Honestly with the Aikon software you don't need to *know* the matrix.  You just need to know what pins are rows and which are columns.   Press the key and then use the mouse to tell the software what you want that key to do.

That should be easy enough.  I will open up one of my Wyse boards to check.  I guess I just need to find out which points on the PCB should go to which contact on the AIKON.

[dorkvader]

Anyone tried using an AIKON on an old Wyse terminal keyboard?  I am thinking I could mod one into a tenkeyless keyboard at the same time converting it into USB.

I'm interested in this project as well.

Man, you wouldn't BELIEVE what the ebay sellers will take if you offer. I wasn't even expecting to get accepted!

[litster]

I am in for 2!  

This mod sounds easy!  :-) http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:8308

[dorkvader]

I may be in for two, depending on price. One for sure, though.

[SmallFry]

GREAT NEWS ALL! The schematic is in pretty much done(99% done,1% cleaning up a few parts). I will make a prototype of the schematic to affirm that I did everything correctly. I'll also post a PDF of the schematic when I get on my workstation (10/13/11 or 10/14/11 hopefully) Once thats done I'll plan a group buy for the actual boards. I do not have a price though due to the fact of not parting it out. I will do that when I organize the group buy.

[Lanx]

cool beens, so like...  are you gonna order the parts en mass, assemble solder the components and ship em out? i'm a bit confused on this part plus i saw the parts list that the those kbd guys linked, ceramic transistors? wow this stuff is way above simple soldering.

[SmallFry]

I haven't decided whether I'll put them together or ship them parted out. Probably the buyer's call. I could probably have them preprogrammed too if people asked. The group buy will not be initiated until I have a working prototype. Here's a PDF of the schematic, I don't like some of the parts I put in (i.e. ISP connector) so I will most likely be redoing a few components, but it works for now. NOT PROTOTYPED YET.  
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 28517[/ATTACH]

[JBert]

Where did you get the AIKON firmware? Info about it is scarce or in an Asian language.

[SmallFry]

Google translate it:grin: I'll post a link to the OTD stuff when I organize the group buy. Right now this project is in the preliminary stages.

[dorkvader]

By "parted out" do you mean we'll have to solder he microcontroller to the PCB? OR will we only have to do through hole.

The reason I ask is because I'm getting good at through hole, but don't want to try SMD work yet if I can help it.

[SmallFry]

"Parting out" meaning pricing all the parts due to availability, quantity etc. You would understand if you've ever ordered from Mouser/Digikey. Once the board is designed, I'll start pricing the parts and then selling them. I haven't decided on any further details at the current time.

[Urglifast]

"Parting out" meaning pricing all the parts due to availability, quantity etc. You would understand if you've ever ordered from Mouser/Digikey. Once the board is designed, I'll start pricing the parts and then selling them. I haven't decided on any further details at the current time.

i always end up getting everything all set and they sell out of key parts i need the moment i order

[dorkvader]

"Parting out" meaning pricing all the parts due to availability, quantity etc. You would understand if you've ever ordered from Mouser/Digikey. Once the board is designed, I'll start pricing the parts and then selling them. I haven't decided on any further details at the current time.

Oh right, I get it now. I have been trying to sell parts from servers for a friend, and he always call it "parting it out". I hadn't thought of the phrase in the context of looking up parts for a while, so I was confused.

Yeah, I've ordered from both of them several times, so I know how all that works.

Thanks again.

(Uglifast, I agree, Then you have to go and either wait 6 months (for another earthquake no doubt) or redo your whole project.)

[cactux]

Is this going to be sell as a DIY kit?

[wcass]

please take a look at this and tell me what you think. double check that i didn't make any stupid mistakes.

it is supposed to be an Aikon laid out as a drop in replacement for a model M controller. it is the same size as the model M controller and all the connectors are in the same place. it uses a 16 pin flat-flex connector for rows and can select to use either ...

• 8 pin FFC for columns (no LEDs)
• 8 pin FFC for columns and 4 pin header or FFC for LEDs
• 12 pin FFC for combined columns and LEDs

i don't have a LED pin header type controller to check that the pin order. i'm assuming it is the same as the 4 pin FFC but if it is different, changing the wire harness should be easy.

i chose to use an RJ45 to connect the USB cable to the controller for a number of reasons. it is similar in size and connects securely like SDL but is cheap and easy to find. cables should be easy to make from a standard USB cable as crimp tools are pretty common.

J1 = 9 pin header for programming
J3 = terminal quick connect (part# 63951-1 or similar)
J4 = 16 pin flat flexible connector (6-520315-6)
J5 = 8 pin flat flexible connector (5-520315-8) or 12 pin flat flexible connector (5-520315-8)
J6 = (optional) 4 pin header or 4 pin flat flexible connector (5-520315-4)

[dorkvader]

i chose to use an RJ45 to connect the USB cable to the controller for a number of reasons. it is similar in size and connects securely like SDL but is cheap and easy to find. cables should be easy to make from a standard USB cable as crimp tools are pretty common.

Why not a USB-B ?

On Mouser, I see RJ45 is 44-68 cents, and USB-B is 54-70 cents. I prefer USB-B, so I can use an off the shelf cable. Then you don't have to worry about making a cable, it's about the same quality, and secureness of connection, etc.


Hmm, how about a connector like this one:
http://www.newark.com/3m/3408-5002/wire-board-conn-header-16pos-2/dp/46F4677

They're really sturdy, easy to remove and lock sturdily. It's also pretty inexpensive (especially if you grab the one with less pins)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/3793-6002/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4AAsFd8nAEjV6vVLKlgSKdlg%3d

Here's the 6-pin:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/N3869-6002-RB/N3869-6002-RB-ND/2609721?wt.z_cid=ref_octopart_dkc_buynow


As far as layout, have you considered moving the crystal, and the capacitors over to the area between the ATmega and the J5 J6 area?
---
but really all my qualms are preferential things. Looks good!

[wcass]

Why not a USB-B ?

On Mouser, I see RJ45 is 44-68 cents, and USB-B is 54-70 cents. I prefer USB-B, so I can use an off the shelf cable. Then you don't have to worry about making a cable, it's about the same quality, and secureness of connection, etc.

because the hole on the back of the keyboard case is much larger than a USB-B jack. look at this picture:

the size of the hole is 19.5 x 12.7 (mm).
the face of a USB is 10.4 x  10.9; so 4.5mm gap on either side and 1.8mm gap at the top.
the face of a RJ45 is 16.3 x 12.6; so 1.5mm gap on either side and 0.1mm gap at the top.

and the clip on the RJ45 does make it more secure than a USB-B; though that might not be desirable for all users. i have seen a laptop fly when someone tripped over a network cable. a USB cable would have just popped out.

Hmm, how about a connector like this one:
http://www.newark.com/3m/3408-5002/wire-board-conn-header-16pos-2/dp/46F4677

They're really sturdy, easy to remove and lock sturdily. It's also pretty inexpensive (especially if you grab the one with less pins)

the OP is for a generic Aikon controller that could be adapted to many different keyboards. but an IBM model M is different from every other mechanical keyboard in that it uses a buckling spring to actuate a (cheap?) membrane switch. it needs connectors appropriate for use with the membrane. the implementation that i suggested here is specifically targeted as a "drop-in replacement" for several IBM model M controllers. below are pictured a terminal 101 controller, oldest style 101 controller, old 101 controller, newer 101 controller, and finally a space saver controller.

[cactux]

Please keep the whole board layout in a small factor

[wcass]

SmallFry, you might be able to give this a 40 pin DIP form factor (would require SMDs).

that way anyone with a "special requirement" like myself and other M users could very easily create a daughter card that would only have the connectors on it. i think this would please the most people.

[dorkvader]

SmallFry, you might be able to give this a 40 pin DIP form factor (would require SMDs).

that way anyone with a "special requirement" like myself and other M users could very easily create a daughter card that would only have the connectors on it. i think this would please the most people.

I think that's a very good idea. Also, you could attach the two with excellent rainbow cables.

Like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/linux-works/4549698704/in/pool-69453349@N00

[SmallFry]

I have not been keeping a close handle on this thread guys, I moved to a modifications wiki. After the controller is complete I'll start the group buy.

[dorkvader]

I have not been keeping a close handle on this thread guys, I moved to a modifications wiki. After the controller is complete I'll start the group buy.

Here's a link for those interested:
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:23146