Does anyone know if QF's will fit?
Looks really nice, but I haz no filcos
Thanks for link! I know what I'm getting for Christmas now!
Question: If I change the switches, keycaps, plate, controller, and case on my my Filco is it the same keyboard?
Looks really nice, but I haz no filcos
phantom?
Would it be possible to re-anodize this to give it a Titanium or Purple look?
Would it be possible to re-anodize this to give it a Titanium or Purple look?
Whoa this is pretty neat. Wish there are more colors though.
Can't buy at the moment, but along with the recent plate GB, I'm looking forward to some reviews and more pictures of potential Filco customs!
Does anyone know if QF's will fit?They fit. You probably want to pick up a spare Filco cable and use that instead of the mini USB PCB thinger. Few other boards fit in it since it has no protruding screw mounts in the bottom. You can't screw the board down into the case. They kinda just sandwich between the case. The case has center cable exit instead of the offset exit now. The case top is shallower than the Filco, so the LED will protrude, as well as giving the tall keycap look.
You can't screw the board down into the case. They kinda just sandwich between the case.
The case top is shallower than the Filco, so the LED will protrude, as well as giving the tall keycap look.
I'm considering it. I was going to have my Filco professionally painted but this would also be nice. I wouldn't count on it matching the quality of those boards you mentioned, though. Let's be honest: it's vortex.
What do you have against Vortex's quality? Considering they use the same factories as Costar.
Is bpiphany's controller taller than the stock controller?
Poker, Pure, and Race. Never heard of anyone having to unplug their Filco to get the esc key to work, or reporting that the coating is chipping off.Ducky cap coating's have chipped too. Since caps comes out of the same factory. Backlit coating suck on all boards. Paint on the painted Filcos does come off too. I bash Vortex 100x than you do, but this is not specifically their problem. Plug thing is not a manufacturing problem but a design one. Who in their right mind uses miniUSB connector for keyboards? You see the same problem in QFR and RK9000. So you used these to generalize Vortex sucks. Not that I have a problem with it since I don't like them too, but the reasons are kinda weak. There are so many other real reasons to bash Vortex. Incomprehensible designs. Bad firmware. Over promising, under delivering. Shrewd business practice...
Can't you get one from the custom plate GB?
Hmmm. That's pretty interesting that you may be able to put QFR's in them. Hope someone dares to try that.
BTW, I agree that mini/micro USB probably is not the smartest choice for keyboards, especially mechanical ones. There is no need for low-profile connectors on the back of a board. I would prefer the standard USB or USB Type B connector (the ones for printers) as they would be much more durable. At least the QFR has a better placement for it that is less likely to be damaged like the Rosewill's that hangs straight out the back.
I do like the idea of a detachable cable though, because it allows you to replace the stock cable with a nicer one, or replace it if it breaks.
You'll hopefully be getting one in a few days
You'll hopefully be getting one in a few days
You'll hopefully be getting one in a few daysI'm waiting to do your Poker for when Beast gets those plates to you as well... Do your homework Beast!
You didn't see feng's GB? MKC already released it, several people bought it for ~$350 shipped.
The plate's edge sits on a groove on the case, as it is so in the Filco/CM Storm case. It is just Filco and CM Storm have extra protruding screw thingers it also rests on. They primarily sit on the ledge on the edge. The height of the plate on the edge is same height as edge of the bottom aluminum case (see here (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=321213774613006&set=a.321213747946342.71066.241720585895659&type=3&src=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc7%2F464053_321213774613006_686295761_o.jpg&smallsrc=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc7%2F575590_321213774613006_686295761_n.jpg&size=1800%2C1200)). The the top case just screw down into it, sandwiching it all together.
Unfortunately the case only have ledges that support the plate on the front and back. Not on the side. I am afraid that your plate won't fit.
How does your plate work in a regular Filco case? Doesn't that require the bent edges to sit on the bottom case too?
Assuming I were to use this for a QFR, how would I go about obtaining an attachable cable like on a Filco?id say contact mimic
Assuming I were to use this for a QFR, how would I go about obtaining an attachable cable like on a Filco?
...
However, good news is that this aluminum case will work with all Filco TKL, CM quickfire, and ducky TKL since they all use the same plates with the bend. Dimensions are all the same.
...
Assuming I were to use this for a QFR, how would I go about obtaining an attachable cable like on a Filco?
If you find out let me know...I ordered one of these alu cases for a QFR. I don't want to have to do all the work of desoldering green switches and soldering them into a Filco.
Can someone anodize one for me?
Can someone anodize one for me?
It's not as easy as you think. That's why companies that anodize will charge a lot unless it's mass anodizing all at once.
Can someone anodize one for me?
It's not as easy as you think. That's why companies that anodize will charge a lot unless it's mass anodizing all at once.
Yes, In fact I wanted to ask if there is someone who can offer this kind of professional service, obviously at a reasonable price, for just 1 case
Does anyone know if QF's will fit?do you mean CM Quickfire Rapid?
Neither does the filco afaik, hence this GB:Filcos and QFRs have plates, that plate just lets you open switches without desoldering.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=36907.0
Filco most definitely has a plate.My mistake, I must have missed that (I've only disassembled one filco before). Wonder if I could find a powercoater in Seattle to get it a dark gray....
Look at WhiteFireDragon's post at the top of this page, he posted a picture of the Filco plate + his plate from the GB you just linked.
Regarding fitting the phantom plate, what if it was modified to have standoffs in the proper location's?
Does anyone know if QF's will fit?do you mean CM Quickfire Rapid?
do you know will that fit?
WTF! I was just about to order one and it's out of stock now. There were 5+ this morning. :(
Sold out? Good, no more contemplating buying one for my QFR :)Same here. But now I'm wondering what I'll get once I actually have the money to get a case for my QFR.
Since the surface is oxidized already, you would have to get someone to grind or sandblast the surface in order to anodize it again. Making a bath, preparing a color and all that will be expensive if only for one item. I suggest you ask them if there is a chance that there are any colors going to be made close to the one you want and go with it, perhaps they can throw it in with those and you will have less fixed costs.
Maybe laffindude can confirm, but I suspect these are already anodized? If not, they would oxidize and stain fairly quickly if they were just brushed aluminum. All that means, if true, is that to have them anodized to another color, you first have to media blast them to remove the anodized layer.
Alright, if you missed it, I'll sell mine for $250. ;-)No no! I'll see you one for $249.99!
You do know what MSRP translates to... R is recommended, ie: a suggestion.
You do know what MSRP translates to... R is recommended, ie: a suggestion.Maybe Suggested Recommended Possibly price.
Wikipedia says this is right:You do know what MSRP translates to... R is recommended, ie: a suggestion.
I always thought R was for Retail. Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price. There is already a "suggested" in there :P
lol you guys like to debate about the most trivial things.Mine is scheduled for December 1st...but idk if mechanicalkeyboards.com sprang for Saturday delivery.
Anyways, my case is expected to arrive Wednesday Dec 5 according to fedex tracking.
Hmmm...the package seems to be missing the metal keyboard feet.those are kinda important lol
I say slap some Egrips on the bottom and go!
Wood blocks+Egrips?I say slap some Egrips on the bottom and go!
Yeah but what if they want the elevation
Show Image(http://i50.tinypic.com/30m7g5y.jpg)
Isn't the board supposed to be supported somewhere in the middle?
What you needtsangan, where can we get those feets? There were at least 20 cases ordered, I doubt you have that many for everyone.
What you needare those KMAC feet?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WYSSw.jpg)
It was used for the KMAC, but its basically used on most custom keyboardsThe Vortex ones looks to be a little more pointy. Also the screw threads must fit the threads of the vortex case. Do you know the screw size.
Do you actually have black feet still?Yeah, haven't found a case that didn't come with feets already, but looks like I found a use for it now
Where to get :OI think these were extras from some case GB
The Vortex ones looks to be a little more pointy. Also the screw threads must fit the threads of the vortex case. Do you know the screw size.You can use screws or adhesive tape for example for mx mini acrylic cases.
Got it together. It's ok, obviously not as perfect as the KMAC. Here are some pictures, mostly of the weird seams.
http://imgur.com/a/dYKN8
No feet? Drill holes? No Phantom support? Good ole Vortex. For the price I get either a useless case or a keg of cheap beer. Not a hard decision.
It's not as easy as you think. That's why companies that anodize will charge a lot unless it's mass anodizing all at once.Sometimes a company will let a part be plated or anodized together with their regular orders. I got a espresso-cup sized steel part nickel-plated that way for about 15 Euros. II had to wait a couple of weeks longer, but they called me when they were done. Really nice of them. :)
Seeing this I don't expect the trooper to be in the box but I surely don't expect the feet to be missing...!BTW. It is an AT-AT driver. ;)
BTW. It is an AT-AT driver. ;)
Lego messed up. The helmet and complete suit should be light grey. (but it looks white in the movie)
Did the case change the feel of the board at all?
Looks pretty good.
Someone sell me theirs please :)i will do a group buy later and come with 5 different colors
Someone sell me theirs please :)i will do a group buy later and come with 5 different colors
Okay, I could kiss you now! If you're getting them made, any chance in a Winkeyless version for my phantom? I'll get another plate cut to fit the case, it'll be easier in the long run.sorry... no wkl version..
sorry... no wkl version..
no.. around 185 shipped conusSomeone sell me theirs please :)i will do a group buy later and come with 5 different colors
:O around the same price as these ones?
no.. around 185 shipped conusSomeone sell me theirs please :)i will do a group buy later and come with 5 different colors
:O around the same price as these ones?
p.s.i will loss 10 usd+ if i sell it on 148
Shipping to UK? what would I be looking at?maybe 5 more
how many shipping fee to Vietnam, i'm interest other color :P185 usd
maybe 5 more
maybe 5 more
please put me down for one :)
maybe 5 more
please put me down for one :)
another one here
tinlong will be overloaded if he does 3 group buy on the same time. He is preparing his exam now :'(maybe 5 more
please put me down for one :)
another one here
Time for a GB thread! Although with the poker round 2 and those Cherry cap pullers, a lot on your plate Tinlong!
Exams first, group buys later.
So what is the consensus on this case? I'm getting it's not the same quality as a KMAC. What are the exact differences? How does it compare to the MKC case? It definitely seems a step up from the stock case but I was expecting to have my mind blown. Also what goes into designing a case like this?
I had an MKC one and this one should be here on Thursday, will give more specifics on this one and the differences between the two.So what is the consensus on this case? I'm getting it's not the same quality as a KMAC. What are the exact differences? How does it compare to the MKC case? It definitely seems a step up from the stock case but I was expecting to have my mind blown. Also what goes into designing a case like this?Objectively, MKC's case were better in all aspects. More chamfers and treated edges, extra chamfers and features to hide imperfections in the split lines, finer tolerances (by the looks of it), more advanced shape with milled underside etc requiring more mounts in a mill, brass inserts for threads instead of just tapping the holes in the aluminum etc.
Then again, they were about twice as expensive. Someone who received one could perhaps chime in. I am actually surprised that they managed to get the price that low.
With bpiphany's custom controller, it won't work.
Came home and the package was waiting for me. I recorded a video review on the spot, will upload it when I have time. But here are some quick things I want to note. It's already anodized, just not with color. It fits fine with Filco and CM quickfire with stock controllers. With bpiphany's custom controller, it won't work. Ducky plates is about half a millimeter too long to be a direct drop in, so filing the ducky plate or the vortex case at the left and right sides would make it work. I'm disappointed in the overall imperfections.
Dan did it to his CheatHe did his for $40. Not sure why where Aggiejy is going it is so expensive... herm.
I vote pink!
What's wrong with pink?
I don't really need it until after Christmas. :) And what color, maroon?
aggiejy, did you ever hear back from the anodizing place if it would reduce the cost per unit to do more than one?Last quote he gave me was $60 if I did blue. I wrote back asking about doing two instead of one, and also to get clarification that that price includes deanodizing. I haven't heard back. But, my inlaws have already left Midland today, so you'd have to mail it if you wanted to. I'll PM you if I hear back. (But figured people would like to see the ballpark pricing I'm finding!)
For what they are, I would actually say both are overpriced. MKC by quite a large margin and surprisingly the vortex as well. It's design is too simple and executed too poorly to justify much more than what I paid ($158USD including supping).
EDIT - If anyone finds some feet that work well with this can you post them ITT? Already going out to get some rubber pads.
It isn't 150 dollar good, but still very usable. Perhaps more so since I won't give 2 craps about dinging and scratching it.
Just sent mine off to have it reanodized red. We'll see how that works.
^Bringing this back up. For those of you that used a ferrite bead cable. Did you guys actually forcibly screwed it down? Seems like trouble if you did. The plate is semi floating plate. If you push down hard and keeping the PCB in place (propped up by the bead), you can actually unhook the plate from the switches. You guys may want to check on that.if your looking for a filco cable talk to MiMic he can make them now.
/Finally got my screws so I could finish assembling it. I do have a unbeaded cable, but it also doesn't have the strain relief. Not sure what to do right now. I may go buy another spare cable (for fullsized board so longer internal cable) and remove the bead...
I paid 3 dollars for my spare cable and I think I overpaid ;o I'll sleeve the cable myself when I get around to it. /lazyOr you can smash the ferrite bead with a hammer like I did. They are uber fragile so one soft hit with a hammer shatters them.
I already solved it though. I disassembled the white connector leads and pull them through the ferrite bead. For those that want to mod their stock cable. Look at the flat side of the connector where you can see the silver leads. There are 5 tabs holding those things in. Just flip up the tab with a precision flathead and you can remove the wire + lead from the connector. Make sure to mark the 2 different black wires so you know which is which. Remove the heatshrink and pull the wires through the bead, then reassemble. Done.
Another batch alu casing arrived!
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212
why are you so paranoid?Another batch alu casing arrived!
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212
and wtf, you registered just to post this? :)) :)) fisshy fisshy :)) :))
Nobody be a **** and order like 10
why are you so paranoid?Another batch alu casing arrived!
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212
and wtf, you registered just to post this? :)) :)) fisshy fisshy :)) :))
Nobody be a **** and order like 10
Also, they have been in stock for a while.
I wonder if this batch will be better :\
I wonder if this batch will be better :\
I just ordered one.. comes probably thursday... if you guys are worried.. wait for my review. ;D
I wonder if this batch will be better :\
I just ordered one.. comes probably thursday... if you guys are worried.. wait for my review. ;D
Cool, let us know!
^ That hurts :(
USPS carrier?
They shipped mine with USPS which spared the tax issue
I know that with fedex and UPS it's 100% declared and taxed...
^ That hurts :(
USPS carrier?
^ That hurts :(
USPS carrier?
Royal Mail asking me for the money so no idea who yet. Arrives on Thursday
$148 for a case
$48.55 for the postage
$56.33 for the import tax
$252.88
should have just got a ****ing mkc case shouldn't I.... beware UK buyers!
^ That hurts :(
USPS carrier?
Royal Mail asking me for the money so no idea who yet. Arrives on Thursday
$148 for a case
$48.55 for the postage
$56.33 for the import tax
$252.88
should have just got a ****ing mkc case shouldn't I.... beware UK buyers!
^ That hurts :(
USPS carrier?
Royal Mail asking me for the money so no idea who yet. Arrives on Thursday
$148 for a case
$48.55 for the postage
$56.33 for the import tax
$252.88
should have just got a ****ing mkc case shouldn't I.... beware UK buyers!
TAXES.................
Is there no Import tax when they ship the MKC from China?
^ That hurts :(
USPS carrier?
Royal Mail asking me for the money so no idea who yet. Arrives on Thursday
$148 for a case
$48.55 for the postage
$56.33 for the import tax
$252.88
should have just got a ****ing mkc case shouldn't I.... beware UK buyers!
TAXES.................
Is there no Import tax when they ship the MKC from China?
In my experience, everything that China ever ships internationally is a "gift."
Anodized red! :)hey that ones mine :P yours is to the left ;)
(Attachment Link)
Okay now that makes me really wanna get one. How much did it cost?can be up to $60 if you do it alone best way would be to get a GB together
Anodized red! :)
(Attachment Link)
Anodized red! :)Wait, is there 2 or 3 cases there... is the left a mirror?
(Attachment Link)
I believe that would be aggie's KMACAha. My mind was playing tricks on me...Looks like he is going to have a Rita Darling KMAC:) Just like your project Moose:)
How about adapting the phantom plate design so it will fit this case? (provided it doesn't compromise further compatibility with other cases)
It's the only aftermarket case available so far and it's pretty good in the end
I believe that would be aggie's KMACAha. My mind was playing tricks on me...Looks like he is going to have a Rita Darling KMAC:) Just like your project Moose:)
I'll probably get flamed for saying this, but a Filco with a programmable controller in an aluminum case is just as good as a KMAC. I just wish WFD's universal TKL plate worked with the Vortex case.
Anodizing cost me $35
No no, I paid $35 to anodize my KMAC lol.
No it does not. KMAC and KMAC LE came in silver and titanium.
But KMAC 1.2 and KMAC 2 comes in gunmetal/red/black
I'll probably get flamed for saying this, but a Filco with a programmable controller in an aluminum case is just as good as a KMAC. I just wish WFD's universal TKL plate worked with the Vortex case.
I'll probably get flamed for saying this, but a Filco with a programmable controller in an aluminum case is just as good as a KMAC. I just wish WFD's universal TKL plate worked with the Vortex case.
this I wouldn't flame!
it would be less high end and hype but still as good for me
Only major drawback is the plate issue
Phantom with WFD plate in this case would be my kmac
Really easy to grind the edges to give it a bend for it to sit on the ledge in the case? ;)
I'll get the multimeter on to confirm but I suspect your right, they wouldn't want it oxidizing.i know ive had 2 reanodized.
I've got prices to change its colour, range from £30 - £60. The £60 was for a hard anodize in dark gunmetal, used for underwater metals apparently... not testing that.
The lateral movement isn't really an issue, when the case is tightened you really have to push hard to get it to move, won't happen by accident.
My phantom rocked from escape to the bottom corner when in my plastic chinese case, with this case it does not happen. Also in the filco case it was solid, because of standoffs and screws of course. Also in the cheap plastic case the left control stuck because the case just wasn't the best fit.
Make sure you guys use acid free adhesive rubber if you guys are gluing cork sheets or rubber sheets.
Overall.. A good buy for $150 USD Shipped.. :)
n1 Profosist :) sorry for the delay in getting back to you on that filco case, had a poweroutage at work and its been MENTAL since tues.... last night two of the guys were still going at 3:45am :(Make sure you guys use acid free adhesive rubber if you guys are gluing cork sheets or rubber sheets.
Overall.. A good buy for $150 USD Shipped.. :)
I purchased some stupid high heel rubber grips for the base. How do I check or do you have a link to a decent product? mine was just £1 delivered so very cheap. Just wanted to stop the base sliding and scratching.... not that it slides much its massive and heavy.
snow's 2 foot deep here now....
:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
just so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
just so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
yellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
yellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
yea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
yea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
idk man been trying to get ahold of him on stuff tooyea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
Is feng still sick.. I paypaled him and pmed him about the orange alu space bar, he hasn't gotten back to me.. idk if it's just cuz i'm annoying though :'( :'(
There is a yellow that looks gold-like as well.
You would be better off getting it powdercoated as chances are they have a candy yellow that would look exactly how you want.
I'll get the multimeter on to confirm but I suspect your right, they wouldn't want it oxidizing.
I'll get the multimeter on to confirm but I suspect your right, they wouldn't want it oxidizing.
It's already anodized but they left out the additional step of color dye. I verified mine with a DMM.
And how is it possible you mounted it correctly with a flat plate? Can you take a quick shot of the internals of the bottom piece? I only skimmed all the new posts so maybe you already posted about this.
I just feel like that would defeat the purpose of having an aluminum case right?? ;DWhy?
Does anyone know of a Full 87 set of Sunny yellow PBT..
idk man been trying to get ahold of him on stuff tooyea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
Is feng still sick.. I paypaled him and pmed him about the orange alu space bar, he hasn't gotten back to me.. idk if it's just cuz i'm annoying though :'( :'(
kkkk thanks for the update :Didk man been trying to get ahold of him on stuff tooyea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
Is feng still sick.. I paypaled him and pmed him about the orange alu space bar, he hasn't gotten back to me.. idk if it's just cuz i'm annoying though :'( :'(
He just got home a day or two ago from international flying with a cold, I'd give him a few more days.
kkkk thanks for the update :Didk man been trying to get ahold of him on stuff tooyea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
Is feng still sick.. I paypaled him and pmed him about the orange alu space bar, he hasn't gotten back to me.. idk if it's just cuz i'm annoying though :'( :'(
He just got home a day or two ago from international flying with a cold, I'd give him a few more days.
kkkk thanks for the update :Didk man been trying to get ahold of him on stuff tooyea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
Is feng still sick.. I paypaled him and pmed him about the orange alu space bar, he hasn't gotten back to me.. idk if it's just cuz i'm annoying though :'( :'(
He just got home a day or two ago from international flying with a cold, I'd give him a few more days.
This quote is huge! FYI I'm not his spokesperson, but anxiously awaiting his return to good health as well, because I want the MKC board! :D Glad I didn't buy one of these, would have cost too much to go find a filco then re-anodize it heh.
kkkk thanks for the update :Didk man been trying to get ahold of him on stuff tooyea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
Is feng still sick.. I paypaled him and pmed him about the orange alu space bar, he hasn't gotten back to me.. idk if it's just cuz i'm annoying though :'( :'(
He just got home a day or two ago from international flying with a cold, I'd give him a few more days.
This quote is huge! FYI I'm not his spokesperson, but anxiously awaiting his return to good health as well, because I want the MKC board! :D Glad I didn't buy one of these, would have cost too much to go find a filco then re-anodize it heh.
You can do QFR. Confirmed fit. except the cabling issue in which case you need to make your own cable.
If you're talking about that very rectangular "no slope" mkc board, it's anti-stylish.
kkkk thanks for the update :Didk man been trying to get ahold of him on stuff tooyea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
Is feng still sick.. I paypaled him and pmed him about the orange alu space bar, he hasn't gotten back to me.. idk if it's just cuz i'm annoying though :'( :'(
He just got home a day or two ago from international flying with a cold, I'd give him a few more days.
This quote is huge! FYI I'm not his spokesperson, but anxiously awaiting his return to good health as well, because I want the MKC board! :D Glad I didn't buy one of these, would have cost too much to go find a filco then re-anodize it heh.
You can do QFR. Confirmed fit. except the cabling issue in which case you need to make your own cable.
If you're talking about that very rectangular "no slope" mkc board, it's anti-stylish.
I like it 'square'. But really, I've been looking for something TKL, green led, and green aluminum case. For that price, it fits the bill very nicely. If I need to get more stylish, I'll fork over the cash for a real Korean custom.
kkkk thanks for the update :Didk man been trying to get ahold of him on stuff tooyea its not a bright yellowyellow may be possible but like yellow only variation you get is by different aluminums and how long yo uleave it injust so you know there arnt that many anodizing colors you kinda restricted it not like powder coating....:P :P :P :P :P
:P :P :P :P :P
Looks good Profosist..
I'm thinking of getting mine done in Sunny Yellow..
:'( So Sunny Yellow unpossible?
I have too much of Blue and Red stuff already...
I looked through the possibilities on google... seems like they can only do a "mustard" yellow... No Sunny yellow.
sigh... Guess I'd just call it a day..
Is feng still sick.. I paypaled him and pmed him about the orange alu space bar, he hasn't gotten back to me.. idk if it's just cuz i'm annoying though :'( :'(
He just got home a day or two ago from international flying with a cold, I'd give him a few more days.
This quote is huge! FYI I'm not his spokesperson, but anxiously awaiting his return to good health as well, because I want the MKC board! :D Glad I didn't buy one of these, would have cost too much to go find a filco then re-anodize it heh.
You can do QFR. Confirmed fit. except the cabling issue in which case you need to make your own cable.
If you're talking about that very rectangular "no slope" mkc board, it's anti-stylish.
I like it 'square'. But really, I've been looking for something TKL, green led, and green aluminum case. For that price, it fits the bill very nicely. If I need to get more stylish, I'll fork over the cash for a real Korean custom.
It's not about the cost.. It's about HOW long will you wait.... few hundred dollars, chump change.
Great review Leslieann. How did you manage to close the two shells together with the ferrite bead? I'm one of the first ones that got this case from the first batch, and mine doesn't close with the ferrite bead from the cable.It fit right in under the board with no changes. I literally took the Filco apart and just transferred it straight over.
Great review Leslieann. How did you manage to close the two shells together with the ferrite bead? I'm one of the first ones that got this case from the first batch, and mine doesn't close with the ferrite bead from the cable.It fit right in under the board with no changes. I literally took the Filco apart and just transferred it straight over.
I'm pretty sure that the bottom tray is a bit different inside from the first batch, that or my bead was smaller (MJ2). If/when I paint it, I'll take some pics of the inside, including the bead and how the board sits.
I wasn't sure if I should bother posting this or not, and considering how maligned this case and Vortex has been (myself included), I wanted to give it a fair review after it was done. That was partly why there are no inside pictures, I really wasn't expecting it to be as good as it is. We already heard the second gen had straighter lines, and I would have just gave that comment a second (or third), but when I saw the key caps line up better than the stock case, I had to say something and it just sort of went from there.
The more I use it, the more I'm impressed with how it feels, the best way to describe it, is crisp. You don't realize how much flex is in a keyboard, or how much it effects the feel, until you try a more solid one and this is about as solid as they come.
I wasn't sure if I should bother posting this or not, and considering how maligned this case and Vortex has been (myself included), I wanted to give it a fair review after it was done. That was partly why there are no inside pictures, I really wasn't expecting it to be as good as it is. We already heard the second gen had straighter lines, and I would have just gave that comment a second (or third), but when I saw the key caps line up better than the stock case, I had to say something and it just sort of went from there.
I wasn't sure if I should bother posting this or not, and considering how maligned this case and Vortex has been (myself included), I wanted to give it a fair review after it was done. That was partly why there are no inside pictures, I really wasn't expecting it to be as good as it is. We already heard the second gen had straighter lines, and I would have just gave that comment a second (or third), but when I saw the key caps line up better than the stock case, I had to say something and it just sort of went from there.
I think most of the bashing has to do with Vortex, not the case. The case is fine for what it is. Mine doesn't have the alignment issue nor parallel marks on the top face of the board. You can look at Dirge's pictures to see that even 2nd batch haven't fixed that. Yours still have that groove on the side of the case that run parallel to the top surface. The problem is there, just whether or not you notice it/care.
I believe the solidity isn't in removing the "flex", rather, it's because the whole board is heavier now, and sitting completely flat "huge contact area" on top of the desk..I'm not so convinced.
There was very little flex in a plate mounted board to begin with...
my only complaint was the "finish" isn't as smooth as I'd like it to be. :-X
Dont paint your case, powercoat maybe. I may be doing anodizing GBs in the future which would be the bes method for coloring aluminum.If it's well painted, you can't tell what type of paint was used, I was planning to use automotive paint.
I think most of the bashing has to do with Vortex, not the case. The case is fine for what it is. Mine doesn't have the alignment issue nor parallel marks on the top face of the board. You can look at Dirge's pictures to see that even 2nd batch haven't fixed that. Yours still have that groove on the side of the case that run parallel to the top surface. The problem is there, just whether or not you notice it/care.There was, and is, a lot of valid complaints about this case.
Can I get a quote on how well this fits the Phantom? I kinda get it, but a Yay/Nay on whether it fits or not would be much appreciated (because I've heard it does and it doesn't). I'm wanting a nice Phantom case (only problem is that it has the block between the arrow keys and the delete cluster, something I would hope to somehow get rid of...it wont fit properly with the phantom plate currently designed. I could sell you an extra filco plate I have which would make it work.
I noticed one issue with this case, and other aluminum cases, they aren't properly grounded.
I found this out last night when a static spark jumped nearly half an inch on to the housing and somehow made it to the Scroll Lock LED, which lit up. This happened again a short time later. So far there doesn't seem to be any damage, but I plan on figuring out a way to properly ground it.
Can I get a quote on how well this fits the Phantom? I kinda get it, but a Yay/Nay on whether it fits or not would be much appreciated (because I've heard it does and it doesn't). I'm wanting a nice Phantom case (only problem is that it has the block between the arrow keys and the delete cluster, something I would hope to somehow get rid of...it wont fit properly with the phantom plate currently designed. I could sell you an extra filco plate I have which would make it work.
I noticed one issue with this case, and other aluminum cases, they aren't properly grounded.
I found this out last night when a static spark jumped nearly half an inch on to the housing and somehow made it to the Scroll Lock LED, which lit up. This happened again a short time later. So far there doesn't seem to be any damage, but I plan on figuring out a way to properly ground it.
I think the board is just close enough that it was able to jump the gap.I noticed one issue with this case, and other aluminum cases, they aren't properly grounded.
I found this out last night when a static spark jumped nearly half an inch on to the housing and somehow made it to the Scroll Lock LED, which lit up. This happened again a short time later. So far there doesn't seem to be any damage, but I plan on figuring out a way to properly ground it.
I put a bifold of packing paper between the PCB and bottom plate... Because I was worried some of the pins might stick out and contact the base.. They don't seem to do that..
However, I believe you saw sparks because you may have a "pin" touching...
That, or cuz it's winter and the weather is very dry...
I think the board is just close enough that it was able to jump the gap.I noticed one issue with this case, and other aluminum cases, they aren't properly grounded.
I found this out last night when a static spark jumped nearly half an inch on to the housing and somehow made it to the Scroll Lock LED, which lit up. This happened again a short time later. So far there doesn't seem to be any damage, but I plan on figuring out a way to properly ground it.
I put a bifold of packing paper between the PCB and bottom plate... Because I was worried some of the pins might stick out and contact the base.. They don't seem to do that..
However, I believe you saw sparks because you may have a "pin" touching...
That, or cuz it's winter and the weather is very dry...
Considering my cable sits under the board, there must be plenty of clearance. I'm going to open it up this weekend though and take a look. I didn't notice anything grounding the plate to the pcb, but in the stock Filco case, the plate is more protected. On this, the plate contacts the case, and paper, isn't going to stop a big enough jolt. It will stop a dead short, but stopping a 1/2in spark from static, not so much.
anodized shouldn't conduct period. so if it is static build up from your hands.. hmmm...
sure send me a pm i have 2 or 3 filco platesCan I get a quote on how well this fits the Phantom? I kinda get it, but a Yay/Nay on whether it fits or not would be much appreciated (because I've heard it does and it doesn't). I'm wanting a nice Phantom case (only problem is that it has the block between the arrow keys and the delete cluster, something I would hope to somehow get rid of...it wont fit properly with the phantom plate currently designed. I could sell you an extra filco plate I have which would make it work.
Can my phantom have the Filco plate please?!
LOL, good work, but it just seems OCD/unnecessary. ;DI thought so too, until I saw a 1/2in spark jump from my finger to the case and watched the scroll lock LED light up really bright.
LOL, good work, but it just seems OCD/unnecessary. ;DI thought so too, until I saw a 1/2in spark jump from my finger to the case and watched the scroll lock LED light up really bright.
TWICE.
Do you have carpet? rubber sole slippers? dry skin?Certain parts of the country are far more prone to it than others. Here, you get zapped all the time.
I've yet to feel any static jump anywhere
Does anyone have A DUCKY shine, does that fit in this case?
I had a ducky shine yotd but I never took it apart...
Does anyone have A DUCKY shine, does that fit in this case?
I had a ducky shine yotd but I never took it apart...
WFD mentioned (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37801.msg731568#msg731568) earlier that it doesnt work exactly. Some filing might be necessary to fit in. And you have the problem with the detachable cable, same like the QFR.
Red, Blue, Black, and Silver cases coming in next month.
Just an FYI...
I kept wondering about the chance of arcing on these things. Please PM me if anyone finds any serious problems (omg, my board is fried, etc.) with them. :D
Red, Blue, Black, and Silver cases coming in next month.
Just an FYI...
I kept wondering about the chance of arcing on these things. Please PM me if anyone finds any serious problems (omg, my board is fried, etc.) with them. :D
Got my Red Alert keys, but didn't have time to get a much better picture yet.That looks great! I still need to find an aluminum case that has the keys above the invert-t cut out...Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33130.0;attach=12670;image)
That looks great! I still need to find an aluminum case that has the keys above the invert-t cut out...
I would have to figure out how to do it with enough precision. I'm thinking of getting my own case CNCed, but that would be VERY expensive (Still, can't be much more expensive than the higher-end ones on here...That looks great! I still need to find an aluminum case that has the keys above the invert-t cut out...
Dremel!
You could do it and it would barely be noticeable if you do it right.
hahahahahaI would have to figure out how to do it with enough precision. I'm thinking of getting my own case CNCed, but that would be VERY expensive (Still, can't be much more expensive than the higher-end ones on here...That looks great! I still need to find an aluminum case that has the keys above the invert-t cut out...
Dremel!
You could do it and it would barely be noticeable if you do it right.
Anyone know how much a Custom CNCed case would be for just one?
hahahahahaI would have to figure out how to do it with enough precision. I'm thinking of getting my own case CNCed, but that would be VERY expensive (Still, can't be much more expensive than the higher-end ones on here...That looks great! I still need to find an aluminum case that has the keys above the invert-t cut out...
Dremel!
You could do it and it would barely be noticeable if you do it right.
Anyone know how much a Custom CNCed case would be for just one?
isn't that lz still going on? or is it closed
Anyone know how much a Custom CNCed case would be for just one?
OK, that's great! That's not out of the range that I could afford and, quite frankly, about as much as I was looking at to spend on a case for this. I'll have to wait for my birthday or save up, but worth it.Anyone know how much a Custom CNCed case would be for just one?
I seem to recall boost being quoted ~250 for a prototype case *top*
Dude... did you read it tho? Just the top of the case. Not the plate, not the bottom, no feet..
I would have to figure out how to do it with enough precision. I'm thinking of getting my own case CNCed, but that would be VERY expensive (Still, can't be much more expensive than the higher-end ones on here...It would be dead simple, just scribe a line from the lower set up to the upper set, tape it off, cut it with a hacksaw or Dremel, leaving a little extra and file it clean to where it needs to be. You aren't cutting around extra keys or anything and you already have points to work from so you aren't working blind.
I could still make it work...but it would be harder...Harder is an understatement.
Started making my feet today.
I was using some rubber dome thingies, they worked and were really grippy, but not high enough. Here is my second attempt, it raises the keyboard about an inch (I wanted 3/4 but didn't account for how far forward the feet mounted).
This is the first test fitting, so things are still rough, but it is very solid.
It's a 5/8th inch aluminum bar, with some thick o-rings and recessed bolt seats. I still need to finish the ends, grind some grooves to hold the o-rings, clean it up and get some button head allen bolts. I may redo it with some 3/8 or 1/2in later though depending on how I feel about the height.
Ignore the unpainted bottom, have yet to paint it and may be redoing the case in brushed aluminum.
Started making my feet today.
I was using some rubber dome thingies, they worked and were really grippy, but not high enough. Here is my second attempt, it raises the keyboard about an inch (I wanted 3/4 but didn't account for how far forward the feet mounted).
This is the first test fitting, so things are still rough, but it is very solid.
It's a 5/8th inch aluminum bar, with some thick o-rings and recessed bolt seats. I still need to finish the ends, grind some grooves to hold the o-rings, clean it up and get some button head allen bolts. I may redo it with some 3/8 or 1/2in later though depending on how I feel about the height.
Ignore the unpainted bottom, have yet to paint it and may be redoing the case in brushed aluminum.
Cool stuff..
But Why not just Tilt the table towards you instead.. ??? tape some coins to the bottom.. that's MUCH MUCH easier than this, and better for your shoulders.
Started making my feet today.
I was using some rubber dome thingies, they worked and were really grippy, but not high enough. Here is my second attempt, it raises the keyboard about an inch (I wanted 3/4 but didn't account for how far forward the feet mounted).
This is the first test fitting, so things are still rough, but it is very solid.
It's a 5/8th inch aluminum bar, with some thick o-rings and recessed bolt seats. I still need to finish the ends, grind some grooves to hold the o-rings, clean it up and get some button head allen bolts. I may redo it with some 3/8 or 1/2in later though depending on how I feel about the height.
Ignore the unpainted bottom, have yet to paint it and may be redoing the case in brushed aluminum.
Cool stuff..
But Why not just Tilt the table towards you instead.. ??? tape some coins to the bottom.. that's MUCH MUCH easier than this, and better for your shoulders.
This one time...I had coins.....I spent it on coffee
Started making my feet today.
I was using some rubber dome thingies, they worked and were really grippy, but not high enough. Here is my second attempt, it raises the keyboard about an inch (I wanted 3/4 but didn't account for how far forward the feet mounted).
This is the first test fitting, so things are still rough, but it is very solid.
It's a 5/8th inch aluminum bar, with some thick o-rings and recessed bolt seats. I still need to finish the ends, grind some grooves to hold the o-rings, clean it up and get some button head allen bolts. I may redo it with some 3/8 or 1/2in later though depending on how I feel about the height.
Ignore the unpainted bottom, have yet to paint it and may be redoing the case in brushed aluminum.
Cool stuff..
But Why not just Tilt the table towards you instead.. ??? tape some coins to the bottom.. that's MUCH MUCH easier than this, and better for your shoulders.
This one time...I had coins.....I spent it on coffee
Ok, I get it now, a little solo partying tonight, ;D?
quite typical of GH members I'd assume.
What jokers... 1 month to arrive and they gave me the wrong screws. They don't go all the way through to the main plate, hahahaha... **** me.
What jokers... 1 month to arrive and they gave me the wrong screws. They don't go all the way through to the main plate, hahahaha... **** me.Email or call MK, they will send you another set, fast.
Appreciate the help, it's definitely an easy fix. Will buy them tomorrow, but meh, tad silly for this to happen.
Appreciate the help, it's definitely an easy fix. Will buy them tomorrow, but meh, tad silly for this to happen.
More important issue is making sure the top matches the bottom..
My first set were two completely different colors.. silver top, with a "grey bottom"
Appreciate the help, it's definitely an easy fix. Will buy them tomorrow, but meh, tad silly for this to happen.I agree, but if you think that's bad, mine didn't come with any screws.
So my understanding is that there are no stand offs in these aluminium cases? What's required in order to fit a stock filco internals into these cases?
Ah thanks for that. Are there any reviews of this case? I think I saw one earlier but can't find it. :(
Those LED's are trippy. Well, I'm gonna give this case a try. I just want a case that matches a beige/white keycap set better than the ol' black.
I never use the feet on any keyboard so that's not really a big deal for me. Does it come with rubber feet though?It comes with no feet, you can get some on Ebay for cheap.
So my understanding is that there are no stand offs in these aluminium cases? What's required in order to fit a stock filco internals into these cases?
Agreed, they top 5 pounds on the desk, they qualify as not only a (brick) paperweight, but a deadly weapon as well.So my understanding is that there are no stand offs in these aluminium cases? What's required in order to fit a stock filco internals into these cases?
at 3.6lbs + 2 lb keyboard guts, this thing doesn't slide, even if you had a slippery surface... Like a ROCK
http://imgur.com/XMX4bgm,Et46FuW,iAneEvb,3NpGiDv,pwQ9dZ0,DbKhWb0,Zq49NRj
Never again. Next purchase will be WASD v.2
http://imgur.com/XMX4bgm,Et46FuW,iAneEvb,3NpGiDv,pwQ9dZ0,DbKhWb0,Zq49NRj
Never again. Next purchase will be WASD v.2
I didn't see anything obvious, so what were you expecting?
I'm not sure exactly how WASD fixes it since they don't offer an aluminum case last I heard.
I expected getting correct screws. I expected the bottom plate to not rub against the pins. I expected above average construction. I expected something that was at least worth half of what you pay. It was a learning experience anyway, so I'm not too bothered. Just not anything I would recommend or pretend that it's good. Definitely more bad points than good, but if you're desperate for an aluminium case, I guess it works. Either way, I look forward to WASD v2 for other reasons.
Screws are too short. They barely hold on to the upper case. I mean look at the pics. That's less than 1mm of thread.
I was only able to screw in 5 out of 8. The other 3 just spin freely. Vortex should include longer than 10mm screws.Show Image(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu23/calaveratf/DSCF2033_zps2ed20832.jpg)
Those screws look like M4 as opposed to M3 like Leslieann mentioned. Any confirmation on that calavera?
Calavera, 10mm screws are plenty long, my bet is that they didn't properly countersink the screws.
Eyesmiles, some of my screws get wedged in the holes, others fall right out, dont use the holes to judge the screw size.
Now I need to send a note off to MK and see about getting my feet, though my bar foot works extremely well, I would like the right ones.
Wo. Wo. Wo.. You got the FEET?
ALSO Calvera,, what keyboard is that you put in there, filco with alps?. :)
Ok, gotta contact MK
Oh, and that's a "weird color".... It should be "silver.." Pretty sure you can ask for another one if the color's a problem because "silver" was the advertised color.
How can I find out? Those are the screws that were included in the package.Depending on the screw type decides how they are measured.
You're probably right because 5 of the 8 screws went in fine. But then again, how hard is it to counter sink every hole the same depth? It's not like they're eyeballing it; surely they have a stop or marker on their machine that gives them the same depth every time.
EDIT: I just realized those rubber feet were meant for the bottom of the metal feet, weren't they? Since they gave me four I put them on the case instead. haIn your defense, SOME sort of instructions would be nice, but considering they come as loose parts (no retail packaging), inconsistent as heck, no feet, and often none or incorrect screws... Instructions are again, just par for the course.
How can I find out? Those are the screws that were included in the package.Depending on the screw type decides how they are measured.
My advice is take the screw with you to the hardware store and match it up and find one longer.
That was how I got mine, was I found a screw that fit thread-wise, then went to a hardware store and got two different lengths that were about what I needed. If you buy as individual screws (instead of pre-bagged packs) you can get them for $2 a set.You're probably right because 5 of the 8 screws went in fine. But then again, how hard is it to counter sink every hole the same depth? It's not like they're eyeballing it; surely they have a stop or marker on their machine that gives them the same depth every time.
The depth should be the same every time, but so should the side milling where you had a bit of extra. Another case had holes go all the way through the top. Mistakes happen even with CNC, but it's not this sis of or that is off, it's everything, or something went wrong. It shouldn't just be inconsistencies. This seems rather par for the course with Vortex though.EDIT: I just realized those rubber feet were meant for the bottom of the metal feet, weren't they? Since they gave me four I put them on the case instead. haIn your defense, SOME sort of instructions would be nice, but considering they come as loose parts (no retail packaging), inconsistent as heck, no feet, and often none or incorrect screws... Instructions are again, just par for the course.
What kills me is, if they charged $5 more and fixed the issues, they could probably sell a lot of these and people would be happier.
I keep going back to the screws. Apparently when it says M3-.5x8 for example, the last number stands for the length of the thread only. I thought it was the length of the entire screw from head to bottom. :palmface:Depends, on panhead screws it goes to the very top, at least according to mine.
Anyways in that case the screws that I got were 8mm. They should have included 10mm screws.
Pretty sure the problem is they bought the CHEAPEST worst CNC machine EVAR. because foxconn bought all the good ones to make Iphones.I was skeptical of the "2nd batch is better quality" claim. "Because Vortex."
Pretty sure the problem is they bought the CHEAPEST worst CNC machine EVAR. because foxconn bought all the good ones to make Iphones.I was skeptical of the "2nd batch is better quality" claim. "Because Vortex."
And you guys need some real feet ;o
I made something similar with high heel stick on grips..Pretty sure the problem is they bought the CHEAPEST worst CNC machine EVAR. because foxconn bought all the good ones to make Iphones.I was skeptical of the "2nd batch is better quality" claim. "Because Vortex."
And you guys need some real feet ;o
Where can I get those? I've been looking for something exactly like that!!
Where can I get those? I've been looking for something exactly like that!!
Where can I get those? I've been looking for something exactly like that!!
These are the same feet that Vortex used on the Poker/Pure/Race/Oni/One. I could probably get a few more sets, but I am gonna keep them as spare parts since I have many boards that use these feet.
You could just buy some egrips and cut your own. The hole is roughly 10mm x 40mm. So these will probably fit pretty good: http://flexibleinnovations.com/component/com_rokecwid/Itemid,423/view,ecwid#!/~/product/category=411410&id=1457612 .35" = ~9mm.
We will definitely be sending you out these feet once we receive them. For some reason they sent us the feet for all of the new color cases (blue, red, grey, black) but still did not send any silver feet. We have contacted Vortex asking them why they still didnt send any silver feet, but they are off until March for the Chinese New Years.
Response to my inquest from Mechanical Keyboards regarding feet...QuoteWe will definitely be sending you out these feet once we receive them. For some reason they sent us the feet for all of the new color cases (blue, red, grey, black) but still did not send any silver feet. We have contacted Vortex asking them why they still didnt send any silver feet, but they are off until March for the Chinese New Years.
They don't have them, they aren't going to send them. Call it a hunch.
Just received a grey case today, screws fit fine in the bottom side recesses, but they're the wrong thread.. that's a good way to get people to strip out their cases.
I loled at the legend!Show Image(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu23/calaveratf/DSCF2025a_zps0459e8e4.jpg)
I woul like to buy some mathias switches but I don't know where to find alps capsShow Image(http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu23/calaveratf/DSCF2035_zps2690f76b.jpg)
I got my red case in today. Looks great. Luckily all my screws fit just fine, although I only got 2 dots as well. Will grab something to put on the front part. Pic quality isn't the best though. Needs some caps now and the green cord looks a bit silly.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Tmq8lee.jpg)
This looks promising
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/cherry-to-alps-adapters-t4934.html
As someone who really likes MX browns, these may be a little too firm. I'm going to give it more than a few hours to figure that out. However, swapping the XM green springs in, it is hard to distinguish from MX ergo clears.Do want! I hope they make a lighter version :)
I really want to pickup the vortex red case, but the red looks kinda pink :rolleyes:
I really want to pickup the vortex red case, but the red looks kinda pink :rolleyes:
For $130+ I'd rather get something with less imperfections or from a company without such a bad rep :(
That's a good surprise, I wasn't expecting it tbh
I'm a "first round," but not necessarily a "silver." I got a shipping notice.
I'm a "first round," but not necessarily a "silver." I got a shipping notice.
^^what did you get first round, if not "silver"... do you mean you got the somewhat "gray" version?
Second batch Silver for me...
Just checked ma' mail... Also got a USPS shipping notice..
EXCITED....................................................
I'm a "first round," but not necessarily a "silver." I got a shipping notice.
^^what did you get first round, if not "silver"... do you mean you got the somewhat "gray" version?
Second batch Silver for me...
Just checked ma' mail... Also got a USPS shipping notice..
EXCITED....................................................
Heh. No color was specified, so I won't call it "silver." :P
But be honest... WHERE would you find another aluminum case...Other cases do exist, the MKC is available, however you do have to find it used. Those too had imperfections on many, and the prices on them was bad enough when new, but if you go searching, expect to pay even more. Last one I found, the seller wanted over $400 by the time I got it. It was cheaper, easier and faster to buy a Vortex and clean it up myself. Even if I had to re-anodize it after and make some feet, it was far less.
Yep, my feet are on the way as well. YAY!!!!But be honest... WHERE would you find another aluminum case...Other cases do exist, the MKC is available, however you do have to find it used. Those too had imperfections on many, and the prices on them was bad enough when new, but if you go searching, expect to pay even more. Last one I found, the seller wanted over $400 by the time I got it. It was cheaper, easier and faster to buy a Vortex and clean it up myself. Even if I had to re-anodize it after and make some feet, it was far less.
Think about it, after spending $300 for a case and $120 for a Filco... You may as well just get an LZ or KMAC.
This kind of money is nothing... it's the WAIT... that kills......I agree to a point.
This kind of money is nothing... it's the WAIT... that kills......I agree to a point.
6 months ago I would have agreed with you entirely, but we just had the LZ GH buy, there has been quite a few KMACs up for sale recently and Originative even has them in stock. You no longer have to spend a year hitting refresh hoping to get a KMAC or LZ.
Correct, it supports the plate in much the same way as the Filco board, but with zero standoffs for re-inforcing horizontal positioning.
Of which is completely Unnecessary...
Of which is completely Unnecessary...
... in a perfect case with a perfect PCB. However, there should be some leeway in the case to adjust the PCB position to match the case top and the easiest way to lock that in is with a couple standoffs that you can screw it down to.
^ true
I just received a tracking number from mechanicalkeyboards.com, are they sending the feet for those who didn't get them?
... in a perfect case with a perfect PCB. However, there should be some leeway in the case to adjust the PCB position to match the case top and the easiest way to lock that in is with a couple standoffs that you can screw it down to.I don't think you understand how the Vortex works.
I completely understand your concern, I've also been thereExactly.
This case got a lot of hate (I bashed it too before I got mine), but to be fair the final outcome when assembled is very satisfying and makes me forget about the small imperfections
I'm considering it for my Phantom. I think I could jam something in there to get the plate mounted correctly...I've been looking for an easy method as I have a plate I would like to use, but I have so far been stumped. You may be able to find a Filco plate for cheap though.
... in a perfect case with a perfect PCB. However, there should be some leeway in the case to adjust the PCB position to match the case top and the easiest way to lock that in is with a couple standoffs that you can screw it down to.I don't think you understand how the Vortex works.
Filco uses a stiff plate to support a plastic chassis, the standoffs only serve to align it.
Korean keyboards use a more flexible plate and use a stiff chassis and standoffs to support the center of the plate, opposite of a Filco.
Vortex uses the stiff plate that needs no support, and instead of aligning it with a standoff, simply clamps the plate into place. It can't go anywhere once you place it where you want and it doesn't flex.
This is actually less stressful to the pcb and actually allows for more adjustment than a standoff would ever allow. The plate is free to slide where you want, until you tighten the screws, at which point the whole assembly is clamped in place like a vise.
... in a perfect case with a perfect PCB. However, there should be some leeway in the case to adjust the PCB position to match the case top and the easiest way to lock that in is with a couple standoffs that you can screw it down to.I don't think you understand how the Vortex works.
Filco uses a stiff plate to support a plastic chassis, the standoffs only serve to align it.
Korean keyboards use a more flexible plate and use a stiff chassis and standoffs to support the center of the plate, opposite of a Filco.
Vortex uses the stiff plate that needs no support, and instead of aligning it with a standoff, simply clamps the plate into place. It can't go anywhere once you place it where you want and it doesn't flex.
This is actually less stressful to the pcb and actually allows for more adjustment than a standoff would ever allow. The plate is free to slide where you want, until you tighten the screws, at which point the whole assembly is clamped in place like a vise.
No, I'm quite familiar. And the Filco's standoffs with screws are to the plate, not the PCB.
No, I'm quite familiar. And the Filco's standoffs with screws are to the plate, not the PCB.
I'm considering it for my Phantom. I think I could jam something in there to get the plate mounted correctly...I've been looking for an easy method as I have a plate I would like to use, but I have so far been stumped. You may be able to find a Filco plate for cheap though.
Yep, my feet are on the way as well. YAY!!!!But be honest... WHERE would you find another aluminum case...
Think about it, after spending $300 for a case and $120 for a Filco... You may as well just get an LZ or KMAC.
No, I'm quite familiar. And the Filco's standoffs with screws are to the plate, not the PCB.
Your right it does go to the plate, meaning the Filco PCB floats in the stock case as well, which is all the more reason to wonder what your complaint is.
Yep, my feet are on the way as well. YAY!!!!But be honest... WHERE would you find another aluminum case...
Think about it, after spending $300 for a case and $120 for a Filco... You may as well just get an LZ or KMAC.
This was my argument. I just didn't want to offend people's purchase.
It's held exactly as the Vortex Alu case does it, just with plastic.No, actually it isn't.
I got my "feet" today :)
If it weren't for the caps/num, lock light holes I would totally try to fit one of these to my QuickfireA bit of creative wiring would allow you to relocate the lights.
If it weren't for the caps/num, lock light holes I would totally try to fit one of these to my Quickfire
Mine is a quick fire + modded capslock leds + win key lock ^-^
I need some help installing this case.. it seems the right side top plate will not sit with the bottom plate because the holes for the LEDs prevent it from going down. here's a picture:Show Image(http://imgur.com/76LuQjx)
So i cant get the right side of the top plate to touch the right side of the bottom plate. Any suggestions?
Same here. Glad to have them, finally.Now you sell me the case, right? :P I'd like mine in black, along with that KMini of yours. :P Also, Leslieann, I found one of the extender cables on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Black-Female-Cable/dp/B00B5HSA3Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1365445463&sr=1-5&keywords=mini+usb+extension+cable), surprised me that they aren't more common than the 19 that are currently in stock.
Same here. Glad to have them, finally.Now you sell me the case, right? :P I'd like mine in black, along with that KMini of yours. :P Also, Leslieann, I found one of the extender cables on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Black-Female-Cable/dp/B00B5HSA3Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1365445463&sr=1-5&keywords=mini+usb+extension+cable), surprised me that they aren't more common than the 19 that are currently in stock.
I need some help installing this case.. it seems the right side top plate will not sit with the bottom plate because the holes for the LEDs prevent it from going down. here's a picture:
http://imgur.com/76LuQjx
So i cant get the right side of the top plate to touch the right side of the bottom plate. Any suggestions?
Also, Leslieann, I found one of the extender cables on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Black-Female-Cable/dp/B00B5HSA3Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1365445463&sr=1-5&keywords=mini+usb+extension+cable), surprised me that they aren't more common than the 19 that are currently in stock.I wish that had been available when I got mine, in fact I had a heck of a time finding it in stock anywhere. There was the place I listed and only about 3 stores in China that had them. 2 of which were not meant for small quantities.
$5 :eek: for that? F.............I take it you didn't look at the link I posted. $14 before shipping.
anyone know if these fit the phantom ?According to WFD, no (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woEWMwLu10I&t=16m58s).
anyone know if these fit the phantom ?According to WFD, no (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woEWMwLu10I&t=16m58s).
anyone know if these fit the phantom ?According to WFD, no (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woEWMwLu10I&t=16m58s).
Is this for sale in Europe?
anyone know if these fit the phantom ?According to WFD, no (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woEWMwLu10I&t=16m58s).
Mine fits well, I think I wrote about it earlier in this thread.
Show Image(http://cdn.skincaretalk.com/b/b7/b78cc71f_z3450_mind-blown.jpeg)
I think JDcarpe did shimming to fit his WFD plated Filco into his case. IIRC he had some rubber strips that made up the height difference and allowed the halves to close down and clamp the plate. I'm more curious about the teensy fit.
rubber shimming is a great idea because it is less likely to crack the board if there's "too much pressure"
rubber shimming is a great idea because it is less likely to crack the board if there's "too much pressure"
**** now you have me paranoid that my case is too tight and strangling my bare pcb... :eek:
Show Image(http://cdn.skincaretalk.com/b/b7/b78cc71f_z3450_mind-blown.jpeg)
I think JDcarpe did shimming to fit his WFD plated Filco into his case. IIRC he had some rubber strips that made up the height difference and allowed the halves to close down and clamp the plate. I'm more curious about the teensy fit.
anyone know if these fit the phantom ?According to WFD, no (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woEWMwLu10I&t=16m58s).
Mine fits well, I think I wrote about it earlier in this thread.
I still don't understand how this is possible. This vortex case depends on that 90degree bend from the plate to mount the plate/PCB combo. The Phantom's plate does not have this bend.
After reading the entire thread and being none the wiser; have anyone tried fitting a Shine 3 yet?
Would be quite nice to know before ordering one and paying taxes and all :)