So I know that these cases don't fit other keyboards than the ones listed, but hear me out.
I have two of the R1 cases. I like them a lot. However, I'm always saddened by the fact that I cannot put GMK caps on them. (My are both mx boards). Yes, I'm one of the weirdos who notices that GMK caps make contact on R3 of upside down MX switches.
Anywhooo... what about swapping out the PCB? I mean... that should work, right? I've swapped the switches on one of the boards and it was pretty simple. I'm thinking I could use the stock plate and put a mx TKL plate from LFKeyboards in it. That PCB has a JST-PH connector in about the same position.
Anyone see an obvious reason why this wouldn't work?
Can you explain a little better what you mean by "GMK caps make contact on R3 of upside down MX switches"? I bought this case to use with a Masterkeys Pro S and GMK caps so you have me worried something won't look right.
I'll let him speak for himself, of course, but I'm provisionally assuming Reece must have some kind of unusual configuration, as there are pics all over the web of GMK sets on my cases and if they didn't fit somehow, I think I would have heard of it by now. Maybe the key phrase there is "upside down?"
My guess is that most of the people who use this case are using it on a Novatouch. The issue is not present on the Novatouch keyboard because the switches (sliders) are the same on top and bottom. It wouldn't matter if they were up or down or left or right
However, I have a Rapid-i in one and a Masterkeys pro S in another. Both of these keyboards have switches positioned so that the leds shine on TOP of the switch, instead of the bottom. The logo will read upside down, which is why I refer to them as upside down. The issue is NOT the leds getting in the way. The issue is the switch housing. The housing drops off at a steep angle very quickly on the LED side, the side that would usually come closest to the wall of the keycap botom. The top side, however, plateaus out for a bit. When you place the switch upside down, this plateau makes contact with the inner wall of cherry profile (gmk, ePBT) keycaps on the "QWERTY" and "ASDF" rows.
The easiest way to hear it is to press the key down about 1/2 way and then, firmly press until it bottoms out. On every row except the ones mentioned above, you will hear the switch bottom out inside of its housing. On the rows I mentioned (the rows with the shortest profile caps) you will hear a different, muted noise. This noise is the sound of the keycap making contact with the switch housing, that plateau I mentioned.
It has nothing to do with the LEDs. You can completely remove them and still feel it.
Yes, I see that WASD sells GMK caps with their VP3 boards and other boards that have upside down switches. I have no idea why people don't take time to notice these things. I can't imagine how people can be so particular as to go through the trouble of doing things like installing o-rings and lubricating switches and never notice this glaring issue. You can HEAR it. You can FEEL it.
I thought I was crazy when I first noticed it. 18 keyboards later, I'm pretty sure about it. Luckily, I noticed this sooner than later in my collection. I only own 4 keyboards with switches this way.
Maybe people can't feel it, like switch scratchiness. But I don't know how you can't hear it. It removes 1/2 of the signature clack of mechanical keys
The good news is there are always options/workarounds. Like I said, SA and DSA caps have no issue. Also, OEM caps like thick Ducky caps and the new Cubic profile by Tai-Hoa work great.
Other people are aware of the issue with upside down switches. Some makers in these forums are slowly starting to notice and correct the problem.
