Easy AVR USB Keyboard Firmware and Keymapper

[Flamingchook]

Just a heads up that I couldn't get a working firmware for the GH60 rev C PCB with your tool but that the latest TMK works. Something must have changed since whichever version you originally added support for and the final.

[metalliqaz]

Hey guys, it's been a while.  Sorry I haven't been around.  I've found that among being a professional, husband, and homeowner, I've not had much time for hobbies.  Hopefully I can get back some things during the winter months.

I haven't been checking the thread, are there any big issues outstanding?

Welcome back

The only real problem I remember is TheGlow who had a Frosty Flake V2 not working well, he gave up and went to TMK but I think he'd be willing to help debug if you have time.

The most common feature request has been for a handwire option with diodes the other way, and there was a request for support for Hasu's Alps board which has an 8x8 matrix (with diodes the other way) - a GB for this board finished recently so now would be a good time to add it.

The strangest issue is the "board" I discussed with sylcat - 8 buttons and no diodes but it didn't like it configured as one row with 8 columns.  If there's a reason for this I'd love to understand it!

If you'd like a tester to try adding ports before you open the source I have plenty of spare time, if not I will wait patiently

Thanks for this.  The reversed diodes is going to be delivered.  I am now planning a complete rewrite of the firmware to meet the following goals:
(1) more flexible hardware options
(2) move complexity off the AVR to the PC where it is easier to handle (simpler firmware, more advanced keymapper)
(3) remove everything that is preventing it from being open-source.
(4) hopefully better documentation

EasyAVR OSP (Open Source Project) should be kicking off on github soon.

[metalliqaz]

Just a heads up that I couldn't get a working firmware for the GH60 rev C PCB with your tool but that the latest TMK works. Something must have changed since whichever version you originally added support for and the final.

Does it work at all or is it completely non-functional?

[Flamingchook]

Just a heads up that I couldn't get a working firmware for the GH60 rev C PCB with your tool but that the latest TMK works. Something must have changed since whichever version you originally added support for and the final.

Does it work at all or is it completely non-functional?

Completely non-functional. I loaded up the the default GH60 poker layout, generated the hex and flashed with FLIP and got nothing. The keyboard is recognized as an EasyAVR GH60 but beyond that I wasn't registering any key presses.

If you need me to do any testing I'm more than happy to.

[samhwang]

Welcome back, metalliqaz 

Is it possible to have support for the KC60 soon enough ?

[sylcat]

Yo guys!

I just wanted to send in an update for my last couple posts. EasyAVR did end up working for all 8 buttons after I updated to the current beta and used Suicidal_Orange's suggestion of adding a few rows non occupied pins in the cfg. The problem was software on my end~! 

(Also I sent a pm or two and I'm not sure if they are going through?  Nothing showing in my "sent" folder even after it says successfully sent, huh.)

I had a quick side question I was unable to find online.  Would anyone know offhand if the TeensyLC board here would work with EasyAVR's handwire_hardwire? https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensylc.html

If so I could make a couple cheap setups for my friends for Christamas~ 

[a-c]

Yo guys!

I just wanted to send in an update for my last couple posts. EasyAVR did end up working for all 8 buttons after I updated to the current beta and used Suicidal_Orange's suggestion of adding a few rows non occupied pins in the cfg. The problem was software on my end~! 

(Also I sent a pm or two and I'm not sure if they are going through?  Nothing showing in my "sent" folder even after it says successfully sent, huh.)

I had a quick side question I was unable to find online.  Would anyone know offhand if the TeensyLC board here would work with EasyAVR's handwire_hardwire? https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensylc.html

If so I could make a couple cheap setups for my friends for Christamas~ 

TeensyLC is ARM based. Not compatible.

Arduino Pro Micro from eBay is the cheapest.

[AKmalamute]

TeensyLC is ARM based. Not compatible.

So, kiibohd should be compatible with it?

I'm out of controllers, and haven't quite finished my pursuit of keyboards (although now that I have a steel-encased ergodox I'll admit it's slowed down) so might pursue something like this ... but metaliqaz' software is so easy ...

[sylcat]

TeensyLC is ARM based. Not compatible.

Arduino Pro Micro from eBay is the cheapest.

This looks like the best bet with EasyAVR then? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/221891843710?hash=item33a9c8d67e:g:D70AAOSwVL1V~1dn

[AKmalamute]

This looks like the best bet with EasyAVR then?

Two thoughts: One, I have one like that and it has fewer pins than the teensy -- you'll want to count your projects rows & pins to make sure you have enough without getting really creative to invent -- what, a 6x6 matrix? The ebay Desc. says 12 DIOs, but that's strictly Digital I/O ... there's a few Analog I/Os too. But that's still an 8x8 matrix, which equates to 12x4 the easy way. Not quite a 60% board.

 The other thing is, using it with this software, the pins will be at slightly different places (I think) so you're going to need to use the 'handwire' option ... or TMK which is much more flexible in that regard.

 Otherwise, yeah. It'll work fine.

[a-c]

TeensyLC is ARM based. Not compatible.

Arduino Pro Micro from eBay is the cheapest.

This looks like the best bet with EasyAVR then? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/221891843710?hash=item33a9c8d67e:g:D70AAOSwVL1V~1dn

That is one of them. For "Best" I would stick with a Teensy 2.0. For cheapest this is going to be it. You want to make sure it is a 5v 16Mhz version. There are also 3.3v 8Mhz ones. There is also a version with a Mini USB connector if you prefer that, cost a little more. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/381374596957?hash=item58cbb2875d:g:Xy8AAOSwrklVJ9A8

Like AKmalamute mentioned there are only 18 pins accessible, TX/RX are usable. 9x9 would give you 81 keys, but handwire has a 6 row limit, so 6x12 is the largest matrix possible

You will also need to use avrdude to flash it which can be a tedious task since you have to time it just right. But once you have this all figured out you have a cheap controller that is as fast and capable as a Teensy 2.0 with less pins.

[metalliqaz]

The Teensy is not exactly expensive...

[a-c]

TeensyLC is ARM based. Not compatible.

So, kiibohd should be compatible with it?

I'm out of controllers, and haven't quite finished my pursuit of keyboards (although now that I have a steel-encased ergodox I'll admit it's slowed down) so might pursue something like this ... but metaliqaz' software is so easy ...

They list the Teensy 3 as supported. It would be great if they supported it since there are few low cost ARM boards as cheap.

[sylcat]

Got another question wooo~

Since they are pretty unsatisfying, I'm going to bail on membrane switches like I posted above and try out these instead: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1GY0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Basically one button press to equal one keystroke as expected like it were a keyboard key. I'm curious about the wiring though since each button has four connections.  Will I be able to just use one or two of those to complete the circuit?  When using two 4 button membranes (8 buttons total) I had to solder together each one's 5th contact (power?) together to create one line to a pin, effectively using 9 pins on the teensy instead of 10 (since each 4 button membrane has 5 contacts.) 

Would I have to repeat that process for these new buttons? (I.e., each button would have one contact going to a teensy pin, one connecting to a big governing power contact line with all the others', and the remaining two contacts left out?) 

Sorry for the ignorance on this .-.

[suicidal_orange]

Those tiny switches have two pairs of legs (the ones bent towards each other are connected) so they only need two wires. You're right with the wiring - number of switches +1 pins needed.  The tidiest way to do it is to run a wire along all the switches and cut or burn a hole in the insulation to connect it to each switch.

Those switches are very small though, I really wouldn't like to use them blind on the back of a tablet. These are more expensive but at 4x the size they should be much more usable

[sylcat]

Those switches are very small though, I really wouldn't like to use them blind on the back of a tablet.

Front actually! At least that's what I have in my head.  I keep envisioning holding the tablet and clicking with the left thumb (for righties) when functions are needed like undo, etc.  I figured since draw tablets can go even smaller than 10 inches the smaller the buttons at first the better. The design has been changing pretty much every week as I figure stuff out though so I may very well go to those you suggested~
 
And ooooh the legs run through, gotcha. I suspect I'll need to do a test to see which legs provide the grounding and which the signal unless it doesn't matter.

[suicidal_orange]

And ooooh the legs run through, gotcha. I suspect I'll need to do a test to see which legs provide the grounding and which the signal unless it doesn't matter.

Switches are very simple - you send power to one side and when you press them that power goes out the other side so the controller knows it happened.  They are no different to a broken wire so connect them however you wish

I'll just leave this here, it's a tiny switch sat on my adult-male thumb for scale...

[TheGlow]

Hey Metalliqaz, just wanted to say thanx. But as suicidal_orange mentioned I am having odd behavior on a frosty flake v2.
I build the firmware and upload it fine but then I have some odd behavior. A lot of double to triple pressed keys. Or keys doubling later, for example: abcbdefeg.
Sometimes 1 or 2 chars later repeat a previous one. Same with spacebar triggering a few. Even brought the debounce up to 50 or higher, where multiple legit backspace entries would be ignored.
Really unsure what the case was as I didnt have anything too crazy going on in the file.
In the meantime I got TMK working which was a lot more in depth. I've yet to figure out simple typing macros where your GUI made it so much simpler.

[UncleGary]

I'm trying to program an ortholinear Atomic PCB; I modified the handwire and handwire hardware cfg files appropriately, but after I load the hex to the PCB with FLIP, the keyboard is detected as a working USB input device but the keys don't do anything when pressed. Anyone encountered this with an Atomic PCB?

[suicidal_orange]

I'm trying to program an ortholinear Atomic PCB; I modified the handwire and handwire hardware cfg files appropriately, but after I load the hex to the PCB with FLIP, the keyboard is detected as a working USB input device but the keys don't do anything when pressed. Anyone encountered this with an Atomic PCB?

Not specifically Atomic related but if your diodes are backwards this is what happens - try shorting one leg of a switch to the far side of the diode attached to the other leg with a piece of wire/anything metal to check.

Also are you using the latest version or the beta?  Not sure what changed but handwire is the latest feature to be added so the beta is worth a try if you're not already using it

[a-c]

I'm trying to program an ortholinear Atomic PCB; I modified the handwire and handwire hardware cfg files appropriately, but after I load the hex to the PCB with FLIP, the keyboard is detected as a working USB input device but the keys don't do anything when pressed. Anyone encountered this with an Atomic PCB?

Not specifically Atomic related but if your diodes are backwards this is what happens - try shorting one leg of a switch to the far side of the diode attached to the other leg with a piece of wire/anything metal to check.

Also are you using the latest version or the beta?  Not sure what changed but handwire is the latest feature to be added so the beta is worth a try if you're not already using it

Atomic PCB is not compatible with handwire. Diodes are the wrong way, as you mentioned.

[UncleGary]

Not specifically Atomic related but if your diodes are backwards this is what happens - try shorting one leg of a switch to the far side of the diode attached to the other leg with a piece of wire/anything metal to check.

Also are you using the latest version or the beta?  Not sure what changed but handwire is the latest feature to be added so the beta is worth a try if you're not already using it

Atomic PCB is not compatible with handwire. Diodes are the wrong way, as you mentioned.

Got it, thanks. Someone had posted some code from a github for the atomic about altering the handwire cfg to work, so I guess it was just theorycraft on their part.

Fingers crossed for atomic support, I guess!

[metalliqaz]

On vacation this week.  The open source project is starting.  Hosting is on github

[i0nC4nn0n]

Hey guys, it's been a while.  Sorry I haven't been around.  I've found that among being a professional, husband, and homeowner, I've not had much time for hobbies.  Hopefully I can get back some things during the winter months.

I haven't been checking the thread, are there any big issues outstanding?

Can we get some love for Hasu's PCB? Are there any plans regarding adding port conversion or Bluetooth functionality (this thing looks promising)? Do you accept bribes donations?

[suicidal_orange]

On vacation this week.  The open source project is starting.  Hosting is on github

Great!

I see a big list of files we won't get to see in .gitignore but no files of interest have been uploaded, will check back later

[metalliqaz]

On vacation this week.  The open source project is starting.  Hosting is on github

Great!

I see a big list of files we won't get to see in .gitignore but no files of interest have been uploaded, will check back later

Yeah I have development to do before committing. Plenty of work

TeensyLC is ARM based. Not compatible.

Arduino Pro Micro from eBay is the cheapest.

This looks like the best bet with EasyAVR then? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/221891843710?hash=item33a9c8d67e:g:D70AAOSwVL1V~1dn

That is one of them. For "Best" I would stick with a Teensy 2.0. For cheapest this is going to be it. You want to make sure it is a 5v 16Mhz version. There are also 3.3v 8Mhz ones. There is also a version with a Mini USB connector if you prefer that, cost a little more. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/381374596957?hash=item58cbb2875d:g:Xy8AAOSwrklVJ9A8

Like AKmalamute mentioned there are only 18 pins accessible, TX/RX are usable. 9x9 would give you 81 keys, but handwire has a 6 row limit, so 6x12 is the largest matrix possible

You will also need to use avrdude to flash it which can be a tedious task since you have to time it just right. But once you have this all figured out you have a cheap controller that is as fast and capable as a Teensy 2.0 with less pins.

[VinnyCordeiro]

Any news about the open source code? Github still have nothing.

[Prelim]

isn't there any ISO layout?

[TalkingTree]

I have a question but excuse me if it's stupid.
I have an ANSI 87 Filco with the Pegasus Hoof (2015 revision), and I would like to add an extra key to the layout since the PCB (apparently) supports it.
More specifically I would like use the J14 key (between =+ and the 1u backspace on JIS keyboards).
Now, what I tried was adding a key to the filcohoofv2.cfg file but there is no matrix entry assigned to it.
I guess I should edit the FILCOHOOFV2.template file as well but it's not human readable and I don't know how to decode it.
I also tried the handwire config but the matrix is not large enough.
What to do next?

[VinnyCordeiro]

I have a question but excuse me if it's stupid.
I have an ANSI 87 Filco with the Pegasus Hoof (2015 revision), and I would like to add an extra key to the layout since the PCB (apparently) supports it.
More specifically I would like use the J14 key (between =+ and the 1u backspace on JIS keyboards).
Now, what I tried was adding a key to the filcohoofv2.cfg file but there is no matrix entry assigned to it.
I guess I should edit the FILCOHOOFV2.template file as well but it's not human readable and I don't know how to decode it.
I also tried the handwire config but the matrix is not large enough.
What to do next?

Go down the rabbit hole and use TMK.

[suicidal_orange]

isn't there any ISO layout?

In what way do you mean?  Some boards have an ISO option in the "available layout" options at the bottom (like the Quickfire and Filco ones)  Other than that if you click on the key you want to assign and press what you want it to be on your current keyboard it will pick the appropriate option for you, even if the label doesn't match

[Prelim]

I meant in AVR keymap! I can't find any ISO layout available or any option to change it (ISO enter, shift etc)

[suicidal_orange]

Which board are you choosing?  The handwire option shows all possible key positions, you need to know where your switches are connected in the matrix (visible top right) to assign the correct position to it's keycode.  You can create a pretty layout if you like but it's not needed.

[Prelim]

For GH60 (new rev. C)

[suicidal_orange]

Don't think the GH60 works perfectly but try the "all keys" option and have a play - enter might need to go where the big \| is

[TalkingTree]

I have a question but excuse me if it's stupid.
I have an ANSI 87 Filco with the Pegasus Hoof (2015 revision), and I would like to add an extra key to the layout since the PCB (apparently) supports it.
More specifically I would like use the J14 key (between =+ and the 1u backspace on JIS keyboards).
Now, what I tried was adding a key to the filcohoofv2.cfg file but there is no matrix entry assigned to it.
I guess I should edit the FILCOHOOFV2.template file as well but it's not human readable and I don't know how to decode it.
I also tried the handwire config but the matrix is not large enough.
What to do next?

Go down the rabbit hole and use TMK.

The Pegasus Hoof suddenly disappeard from TMK's gitbub. Would HID Liberation Device's files work?

[metalliqaz]

Any news about the open source code? Github still have nothing.

Still working on it

[dragonpower2000]

How do i make the effect seen here

i mean dimming my LED,s?

[suicidal_orange]

How do i make the effect seen here

i mean dimming my LED,s?

For standard dimming you just need to map keys on a layer to Scancode_BL_Dimmer - see also Scancode_BL_enable and Scancode_BL_blmode.

I guess once you get so dim it's off it goes back bright but I'm yet to play with LEDs

[dragonpower2000]

how do i make a custom layout for my specific keyboard? (its with a teenky so it should work)

[VinnyCordeiro]

how do i make a custom layout for my specific keyboard? (its with a teenky so it should work)

Select the handwired keyboard option, read carefully the instructions and make your custom layout.

[burli]

Hi, I tried to use this Keymapper, but there are two problems

1. I can't add german characters like üöäß
2. I can't define the shift layer

It is only possiple to create QWERTY layouts. How can I fix this?

Regards
Burli

[suicidal_orange]

Hi, I tried to use this Keymapper, but there are two problems

1. I can't add german characters like üöäß
2. I can't define the shift layer

It is only possiple to create QWERTY layouts. How can I fix this?

Regards
Burli

Look where the keys are on your board and compare it to a pic of UK ISO and pick the UK key - when you tell your computer the board is German it magically will be.  Or click the key in the keymapper and hit the key on your board and ignore whatever shows up - it will work fine

I don't understand what you mean by shift layer, do you mean FN layers?  There are tick box things across the top for them.

[burli]

Look where the keys are on your board and compare it to a pic of UK ISO and pick the UK key - when you tell your computer the board is German it magically will be.  Or click the key in the keymapper and hit the key on your board and ignore whatever shows up - it will work fine

Should I select a QWERTY layout first and then hit the Ü key?

I don't understand what you mean by shift layer, do you mean FN layers?  There are tick box things across the top for them.

No, I mean Shift. If I press shift+komma I don't want the < character

[suicidal_orange]

Look where the keys are on your board and compare it to a pic of UK ISO and pick the UK key - when you tell your computer the board is German it magically will be.  Or click the key in the keymapper and hit the key on your board and ignore whatever shows up - it will work fine

Should I select a QWERTY layout first and then hit the Ü key?

I don't understand what you mean by shift layer, do you mean FN layers?  There are tick box things across the top for them.

No, I mean Shift. If I press shift+komma I don't want the < character

The keyboard sends a code which is the same no matter where you live, your operating system converts this code into a letter or symbol depending on your country setting.  If you change your keyboard setting to another language and type you can confirm this - the keyboard hasn't changed but what it outputs does.

Just load a QWERTY layout and you'll be fine

[oppsy]

Is F13-F24 still supported? I've tried using stable and beta builds with no luck.

[TalkingTree]

Is F13-F24 still supported? I've tried using stable and beta builds with no luck.

Shifting F1-F12 should give you those extra functions on any operating system, unless you want dedicated keys.

[suicidal_orange]

Is F13-F24 still supported? I've tried using stable and beta builds with no luck.

Shifting F1-F12 should give you those extra functions on any operating system, unless you want dedicated keys.

If that works you can tick "with mods: shift" and do F1-12 again for single key acces

[oppsy]

Hm, I was trying to go for a dedicated key, Caps Lock to F13 specifically. I'm currently using Autohotkey as a band-aid solution but I'd rather have a hardware solution if available.

[suicidal_orange]

Hm, I was trying to go for a dedicated key, Caps Lock to F13 specifically. I'm currently using Autohotkey as a band-aid solution but I'd rather have a hardware solution if available.

Does shift+F1 work? If it does set caps lock to F1 and at the top chose with mods: shift and it will effectively become F13.