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Author Topic: Model M Mini Mod  (Read 10470 times)

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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 08:20:50 »
Okay, here's the background:

During a discussion of chopping the numeric keypad off non-BS keyboards, Daniel Beaver revealed that he'd been messing with the same idea for Model Ms. His trick was folding the membranes under, since they can't be easily chopped and soldered like a PCB.

Brilliant!

Quote from: Daniel Beaver;236991
Still a work in progress - I need to attach the far right end-piece, and make it look all pretty. Everything is functional, though. A layer of packing tape between the mylar sheets prevents phantom keystrokes from the numpad.


Quote from: Daniel Beaver;237017
There we go, proof of concept. The seam is pretty awful, but it's good enough for my own use. I'll probably make that cut with a bandsaw next time, and use some MEK to weld the pieces together. I wanted to preserve the legs on the right side, but I can't think of a good way to do that which doesn't get in the way of the supports.


Quote from: Shawn Stanford;237181
He made it possible for folks who want to use them to have them. Collectors are still going to go the the real thing and keep prices nice and high.

Of course, once he gets the technique down, he can probably double his money on any Model M he buys off the 'bay. Obviously, not everyone who wants a Space Saving is a GHer or a collector.

I am absolutely going to try this. I'll post pics when I'm done.


And I am trying this. I picked up a standard Model M, pulled it apart, knocked off the plastic rivets and took it down to its components.

So far, a huge help has been jpc's Bolt Mod for Dummies, which itself builds on previous work.
« Last Edit: Thu, 11 November 2010, 08:39:57 by Shawn Stanford »
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Offline steeef

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #1 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 08:34:51 »
Godspeed, sir. I have no experience cutting things like this, so I'd be worried I'd end up ruining a good keyboard.
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #2 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 08:35:45 »
I have no idea why the image resizer isn't working on that page. Grr...

It may be an issue with the type of page (article vs. forum), so here are Daniel Beaver's pics of his mod:



« Last Edit: Thu, 11 November 2010, 09:52:11 by Shawn Stanford »
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #3 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 08:39:12 »
I have two good cases, so I have room for error. I don't have a band saw, so I'm going to try it with a compound miter saw or a table saw. If that doesn't look reasonable, I may have to run out and buy a band saw.

First question to Daniel: how did you cut the steel backplate? That daggone thing is a monster!
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Offline lowpoly

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #4 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 10:16:59 »
Quote from: Shawn Stanford;245351
how did you cut the steel backplate?

Dremel FTW!

(I don't know how Daniel did it though).
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Offline msiegel

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #5 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 10:36:05 »
hacksaw ftl :(

it worked, but i am disappoint (ow, hands)
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #6 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 10:42:02 »
Actually, I just remembered that I have a cutoff wheel for my compressor.

Pneumatic tools FTW!
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Offline Daniel Beaver

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #7 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 11:25:21 »
I used a dremel to cut it, though it takes forever. Fortunately, that cut doesn't need to be straight. Only the case cuts.

A miter box should work well for those external cuts, provided it is big enough to contain the entire case.
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #8 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 11:50:54 »
Not a miter box, a miter saw:
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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« Reply #9 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 15:47:21 »
Like I said: I have a 4" cutoff wheel for my compressor. I'll use that on the backplate.
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Offline jpc

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #10 on: Thu, 11 November 2010, 18:30:13 »
I like this.

In this mod, is the metal plate supported at the rear right-hand-side?
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Fun non-ergonomic things: bolt modded Model M Space Saving Keyboards with new springs, Kensington Expert Mouse v7, Unicomp Endurapro, Northgates

Offline Daniel Beaver

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #11 on: Fri, 12 November 2010, 00:09:43 »
Yes, there are two stabilizer fins that are present behind the back-plate which provide extra support. The right-most of these is underneath the home cluster, and so the support structure is preserved.

If you were really cool, you could try to preserve the entire right-most support structure, and save the right leg in the process. If I ever do this mod again, that is what I am going to try. I don't use legs on Model Ms, so I just destroyed that section without second thought on my first try. There is no reason (other than to simply things) you couldn't just cut the top and bottom pieces is different locations in order to keep the leg.

Pictures make it clear (Ripster's picture, BTW):
« Last Edit: Fri, 12 November 2010, 00:14:20 by Daniel Beaver »
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Offline sealcouch

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #12 on: Fri, 12 November 2010, 00:38:36 »
Quote from: Daniel Beaver;245814
Yes, there are two stabilizer fins that are present behind the back-plate which provide extra support. The right-most of these is underneath the home cluster, and so the support structure is preserved.

If you were really cool, you could try to preserve the entire right-most support structure, and save the right leg in the process. If I ever do this mod again, that is what I am going to try. I don't use legs on Model Ms, so I just destroyed that section without second thought on my first try. There is no reason (other than to simply things) you couldn't just cut the top and bottom pieces is different locations in order to keep the leg.

Pictures make it clear (Ripster's picture, BTW):
Show Image


I was suprised to see this image without Ripster's GIANT EBAUMESQUE watermark.
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Offline J888www

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #13 on: Fri, 12 November 2010, 05:57:44 »
Quote from: Daniel Beaver;245814
There is no reason (other than to simply things) you couldn't just cut the top and bottom pieces is different locations in order to keep the leg.

I can think of one reason...

It would be a better idea to cut from different locations (1) More "complete/matching/whole nine yards" (2) Provides more rigidity to the kbd.
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Offline ch_123

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #14 on: Fri, 12 November 2010, 06:09:46 »
This will only work with older Model Ms, the newer ones/Unicomps have the controller board slot into the membrane over the numpad (kinda hard to explain unless you see a pic of it). Maybe it could be hacked around, but it would be pretty difficult.
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #15 on: Fri, 12 November 2010, 06:30:45 »
Quote from: Daniel Beaver;245814
There is no reason (other than to simply things) you couldn't just cut the top and bottom pieces is different locations in order to keep the leg.

Hmm... Yeah, that makes sense. I think I'll go that route.
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #16 on: Mon, 06 December 2010, 19:12:30 »
Okay...

I've pulled apart the board, ordered and received the nuts and bolts and today I drilled out the rivets and cut the case.

I clamped the barrel plate to the backplate and used the backplate as a drilling guide. I didn't go for amazing middle-of-the hole accuracy, but looking at the holes in the sheets, I don't need it. Drilling took about 20 minutes.

After that, I cut the case with a power compound miter saw. I cut the top and bottom asymetrically to retain the foot on the right side. Unfortunately, my cut of the bottom was off and there's a gap of about 1/16". I'm not loosing any sleep over it; as I said: it's on the bottom, I'll patch it later.

I'll try to cut the barrel plate and backplate tomorrow. I'll also post some pics.
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Offline jpc

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #17 on: Mon, 06 December 2010, 20:26:12 »
Exciting! Can't wait to see the result.
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Fun non-ergonomic things: bolt modded Model M Space Saving Keyboards with new springs, Kensington Expert Mouse v7, Unicomp Endurapro, Northgates

Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #18 on: Tue, 07 December 2010, 18:10:46 »
Okay... It's coming along, plus I'm typing this on it. I'm having trouble with the Enter key, the D key, the right arrow & the P key. They won't 'click' & they fire intermittently. Is this because the hammers were not set correctly? I seriously can not comtemplate pulling this apart right now...  *sigh*
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Offline msiegel

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #19 on: Tue, 07 December 2010, 18:21:15 »
Quote from: Shawn Stanford;259152
They won't 'click' & they fire intermittently


i had this problem on a real mini. the nut and bolt mod fixed it, but i don't know whether it was a tension problem, hammer mis-alignment, or something else...
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #20 on: Wed, 08 December 2010, 05:41:40 »
That sounds like a good place to start. Thanks.
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Offline jpc

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #21 on: Wed, 08 December 2010, 09:20:18 »
Stretched-out springs can cause similar odd behavior.

Do the wonky keys' springs peek higher above the barrels than other springs? That would tell you they are either stretched, or not seated on the hammers well. Same effect in either case.
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Fun non-ergonomic things: bolt modded Model M Space Saving Keyboards with new springs, Kensington Expert Mouse v7, Unicomp Endurapro, Northgates

Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #22 on: Wed, 08 December 2010, 15:21:00 »
Well, I can't say for certain which idea carried, the day, but it's working now. I know I had a couple springs that weren't seated and I carefully trimmed away all the excess from the pins I drill out. Working perfectly now!

I took some pics during the initial construction, but they're largely a blurry mess. I'll post some 'finished' pics once I get it all together.
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Offline shmithers

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #23 on: Wed, 08 December 2010, 19:00:58 »
I am planning on doing a Unicomp HHKB size mod. Just curious peoples opinions on how much abuse the membrane sheet thing can take. Do you think it would be safe to fold it, or should I stick to rolling? I ask this because if I want to make my unicomp HHKB size I would need to fold in two ways (folding the function key section down, and the 10keys/arrow keys also).

Also I plan on making the USB a removable USB port type B. I notice that on the Unicomp there is 5 wires (one grounding on the metal backplate of the keyboard.) All of my ports are only 4 wire. Will this be any issue or not a matter at all?

Cheers,
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Offline shmithers

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #24 on: Wed, 08 December 2010, 19:19:08 »
Thanks!

I'm still slightly confused though:

So if I install my own USB port I don't need to worry about attaching the shield as there will be no way to attach the cord shield anymore? (or should I make sure the casing of my USB port I will be installing has a connection to the backplate?)
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Offline shmithers

  • Posts: 28
Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #25 on: Wed, 08 December 2010, 19:28:02 »
Thanks, Feel free to move my posts to a new thread if you wish. Otherwise I will make a new topic in a bit after i make some pasta and eat it.
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #26 on: Fri, 10 December 2010, 06:50:58 »
I used the keyboard for about 24 hours and it is a joy. Bolt modding definitely makes it a like-new keyboard. Highly recommended.

I'm going to glue the case today. I hope to have the whole think together and on my desk at work on Monday.
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Offline didjamatic

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #27 on: Fri, 10 December 2010, 06:58:15 »
Pics pics pics!
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #28 on: Thu, 16 December 2010, 06:51:41 »
Okay, it's all together and working fine. Here it is in place at work in all it's hacked glory:


Elsewhere I have pics of the guts before I screwed and taped (yes, taped) it all together. I'll post them and it will reveal what a complete hack that case is!

But, you can see that I chose to go with the 'Euro' mod that Ripster executed on his Shearson Mini-M: I added hammers for the 'extra' keys normally hidden under the Backspace, next to the left and right Shift keys and the wide Enter key. I also chose to use the tall Enter key from a terminal board. The interesting thing about that key being there isn't a peg under the upper part of the key: I left the hammer and spring out of the barrel that sits above the Enter key barrel, but I didn't have to.

So far, so good. I'm having some minor issues adjusting to the smaller Backspace and right Shift keys, but nothing I won't overcome with a little time. I also believe the bolt-modding makes for a quieter keyboard. While this board isn't quiet by any stretch of the imagination, it has a much 'duller' sound than the standard Model M it replaces on my desk.
« Last Edit: Thu, 16 December 2010, 07:34:36 by Shawn Stanford »
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #29 on: Thu, 16 December 2010, 11:19:19 »
Crap... The uparrow hammer is floating around in the barrel and the other arrow keys seem a little squirrelly. Maybe I didn't tighten that corner down as well as I should have.

Oh well, back to the shop with it...
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #30 on: Thu, 16 December 2010, 15:59:38 »
Well, I pulled it apart and put it back together and managed to **** up the left corner of the board. The 'x' key isn't firing at all and the Esc and F1 are 'soft'. They fire, but only if you mash them and then without a click.

Godammitsomuch...

This is going to have to sit until I have some time for it. That might be after the holidays, if ever.
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Offline JBert

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #31 on: Fri, 17 December 2010, 03:07:12 »
If that happens with my Model F, I reseat the key by holding the keyboard vertical (front-lip up) and pushing the key in so that I'm sure the spring is properly tucked under the keycap.
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Offline Shawn Stanford

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Model M Mini Mod
« Reply #32 on: Fri, 17 December 2010, 06:11:23 »
I'm quite sure something is out of place or not screwed down tightly enough. It's just that it takes a couple hours to pull this thing apart and put it back together. I just don't have a couple hours where I shouldn't be doing something more productive.
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